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Tokyo Weekender - May 2017

Meet the hyperreal body artist, the illusionist, the contortionist, and the acrobat who are all helping to put the country on the global talent map. Plus we go inside Nara’s abandoned theme park, Q&A with chef Bill Granger, Japan’s child poverty crisis, and our Spring education special

Meet the hyperreal body artist, the illusionist, the contortionist, and the acrobat who are all helping to put the country on the global talent map. Plus we go inside Nara’s abandoned theme park, Q&A with chef Bill Granger, Japan’s child poverty crisis, and our Spring education special

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MAY <strong>2017</strong><br />

Japan’s number one English language magazine<br />

SOME<br />

PEOPLE<br />

ARE<br />

GROSSED<br />

OUT BY<br />

MY ART<br />

MEET THE HYPERREAL BODY<br />

ARTIST, THE ILLUSIONIST,<br />

THE CONTORTIONIST, AND THE<br />

ACROBAT WHO ARE ALL HELPING<br />

TO PUT THE COUNTRY ON THE<br />

GLOBAL TALENT MAP<br />

PLUS: Inside Nara's Abandoned Theme Park, Q&A with Chef Bill Granger, Japan's Child Poverty Crisis, and Our Spring Education Special


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20<br />

Photo by Taro Irei<br />

18<br />

26<br />

30<br />

radar<br />

THIS MONTH’S HEAD TURNERS<br />

8 AREA GUIDE: ODAIBA<br />

These artificial islands are an open playground<br />

amid <strong>Tokyo</strong> Bay.<br />

10 STYLE<br />

Our lust list of exclusive items on offer<br />

at <strong>Tokyo</strong>'s newest luxuy mall, Ginza Six.<br />

14 THE CONCIERGE<br />

Editor's picks from our roundup of top restaurants,<br />

salons, and services in the city.<br />

in-depth<br />

COFFEE-BREAK READS<br />

20 INSIDE NARA DREAMLAND<br />

Why one couple chose the abandoned<br />

theme park to celebrate their engagement.<br />

26 THE HIDDEN POVERTY CRISIS<br />

Statistics show that one in six children in<br />

Japan are living in relative poverty. So why<br />

is the government in denial?<br />

28 MUSICAL NOTES FROM THE<br />

JAPANESE UNDERGROUND<br />

New book Quit Your Band proves there's<br />

more to Japanese music than J-pop.<br />

30 "FOOD IS LIKE FASHION"<br />

Bill Granger on being inspired by Japan's<br />

visual culture, and his favorite Bills branches<br />

including the latest opening in Ginza.<br />

guide &<br />

education<br />

CULTURE ROUNDUP<br />

34 ART & MUSIC<br />

And the winner of the best exhibition title<br />

goes to ... Masamichi Katayama for his<br />

installation show called "Life is Hard ... Let's<br />

Go Shopping."<br />

36 AGENDA<br />

It's festival season from wild flowers to music,<br />

art, film, and even a traditional matsuri.<br />

39 SPRING EDUCATION SPECIAL<br />

The latest news from some of <strong>Tokyo</strong>'s best<br />

international schools, including a new middle<br />

school opening this September.<br />

MAY <strong>2017</strong><br />

17 COVER: JAPAN'S GOT TALENT<br />

Meet four artists and performers who are<br />

putting Japan on the global talent map.<br />

32 EXPLORE THE SPECIAL GARDENS<br />

OF YOKOHAMA<br />

With the Garden Necklace flower event.<br />

46 PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES<br />

Looking back on St Patrick's Day celebrations,<br />

and Rainbow Pride week.


MAY <strong>2017</strong><br />

Publisher<br />

President<br />

Executive Producers<br />

Editor in Chief<br />

Senior Editors<br />

Creative Director<br />

Features Writer<br />

Contributors<br />

Sales Director<br />

Sales Executives<br />

Media Strategist<br />

Media Consultant<br />

Media Producers<br />

ENGAWA Co., Ltd.<br />

Takanobu Ushiyama<br />

Asi Rinestine<br />

Naoya Takahashi<br />

Annemarie Luck<br />

Alec Jordan<br />

Lisa Wallin<br />

Liam Ramshaw<br />

Matthew Hernon<br />

Vivian Morelli<br />

Luca Eandi<br />

Bill Hersey<br />

Bunny Bissoux<br />

Takaaki Murai<br />

Hirofumi Ohuchi<br />

Kahori Terakawa<br />

Nobu (Nick) Nakazawa<br />

Yu Suzuki<br />

Mandy Lynn<br />

Mary Rudow<br />

Jessica "Yumi" Idomoto<br />

Claudia Sun<br />

Cover art by Hikaru Cho, photo by Katuaki Sato<br />

EST. Corky Alexander, 1970<br />

SSU Bld. 1F 4-12-8 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku<br />

<strong>Tokyo</strong>, Japan 151-0051<br />

(03) 6432-9948 / (03) 6438-9432 (fax)<br />

editor@tokyoweekender.com<br />

To subscribe to the <strong>Tokyo</strong> <strong>Weekender</strong>, please call<br />

(03) 6432-9948 or email:<br />

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メール:sales@tokyoweekender.com<br />

Opinions expressed by <strong>Weekender</strong> contributors<br />

are not necessarily those of the publisher<br />

Published by ENGAWA Co., Ltd.<br />

4 | MAY <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER


@mizrama: I’m often surprised by how a theme<br />

develops organically with each issue we put together.<br />

This month, we have a few featured people and subjects<br />

that seem to peer beyond the obvious, for example<br />

our cover artist Hikaru Cho [page 17] whose hyperreal<br />

body art really makes one look beneath the surface,<br />

and an investigation into Japan’s hidden poverty crisis<br />

[page 26]. And of course, the couple you interviewed<br />

for our Nara Dreamland feature [page 20] – that<br />

was such an unusual choice for an engagement<br />

celebration.<br />

@bapawn: It was. I think there’s something beautifully<br />

poetic about celebrating the beginning of a life together<br />

by visiting an amusement park whose rides have fallen<br />

into disrepair, and whose grounds need to be explored<br />

by climbing fences and dodging security patrols. There’s<br />

a Japanese phrase that goes 諸 行 無 常 (shogyoumujou),<br />

and it basically means “all things must pass” – that’s<br />

the feeling I got from looking at their pictures. But in<br />

a sweet way, if that makes sense.<br />

@mizrama: Oh, I love that sentiment. Japan does know<br />

how to appreciate the transitoriness of life. It also knows<br />

how to move on from the old and build shiny new<br />

shopping centers like Ginza Six [page 10]. How did you<br />

like the building’s Noh theater when you visited?<br />

@bapawn: It’s certainly the most impressive theater<br />

I’ve ever seen in the basement of a shopping center.<br />

In seriousness, though, it’s gorgeous. A very intimate<br />

space, and it does a nice job of using modern materials<br />

to create a space that feels traditional. I’d love to see a<br />

performance there.<br />

@mizrama: Me too. That's another thing Japan does<br />

well – aesthetics. Actually, this is one of the things chef<br />

Bill Granger mentioned in our interview with him [page<br />

30]. He spent a gap year here in the 90s and said how<br />

inspired he was by the visual culture.<br />

@bapawn: I think you can see it in a lot of the finer<br />

details at his restaurant. I even think his world-famous<br />

scrambled eggs might be a bit inspired by tamagoyaki.<br />

I gave his recipe a try, actually.<br />

@mizrama: And?<br />

@bapawn: It’s a good thing they’re the ones making<br />

the eggs.<br />

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TOKYO WEEKENDER | MAY <strong>2017</strong> | 5


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6 | MAY <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER


WHAT’S ON OUR RADAR THIS MONTH...<br />

<strong>Tokyo</strong> is like one big playground, but this month we've narrowed the fun down to two<br />

specific spots: Odaiba's amusements, and Ginza's newest shopper's paradise.<br />

TOKYO WEEKENDER | MAY <strong>2017</strong> | 7


AREA GUIDE<br />

KID AROUND IN ODAIBA<br />

PROVIDING FAMILIES WITH THE MOST DIRECT GETAWAY TO THE<br />

SHORE, THESE ARTIFICIAL ISLANDS ARE AN OPEN PLAYGROUND<br />

AMID TOKYO BAY<br />

Words and photographs by Luca Eandi<br />

FOLLY SHORE<br />

While most of <strong>Tokyo</strong>’s coastline is reserved<br />

for shipyards and industrial warehouses,<br />

Odaiba has retained access to its shores and<br />

flaunts many open spaces. Public areas like<br />

Seaside Park and Toritsu Shiokaze Park are<br />

perfect spots for sightseeing, people-watching,<br />

or a springtime barbecue. Two major<br />

sights from these spots are Rainbow Bridge,<br />

connecting Odaiba to the center of <strong>Tokyo</strong>, and<br />

a copy of the Statue of Liberty, prominently<br />

on display here since the year 2000. Along the<br />

shore is the Museum of Maritime Science,<br />

which stands unmistakably in the shape of a<br />

six-story-high ocean liner. Also, many dinner<br />

cruises and sea buses depart from Odaiba’s<br />

shores to take visitors out into the harbor.<br />

FUN FOR ALL<br />

Much of Odaiba is centered around<br />

recreation, and no place embodies<br />

that concept more than Palette<br />

Town. This amusement complex is<br />

made up of several venues designed<br />

to suit a wide spectrum of tastes.<br />

<strong>Tokyo</strong> Leisureland is a supersized<br />

video arcade, bowling alley, karaoke<br />

parlor and pool hall. If that weren’t<br />

enough, the Daikanransha Ferris<br />

Wheel, one of the biggest of its kind,<br />

spins riders up to 115 meters into the<br />

air. Next door, the Toyota Mega Web<br />

showroom has the auto company’s<br />

past, present and future on display,<br />

including a test circuit on the ground<br />

floor. The connected History Garage<br />

shows off international vintage cars.<br />

Rounding out the complex are the<br />

plush Venus Fort mall and the Zepp<br />

<strong>Tokyo</strong> music venue.<br />

8 | MARCH APRIL <strong>2017</strong> | | TOKYO WEEKENDER


ROBOT OR NOT?<br />

One of the most popular cultural exhibits in town is The National Museum of Emerging<br />

Science and Innovation, also known as the Miraikan, where the current and future social<br />

roles of technology are explored. With many interactive displays and creative activities,<br />

the museum offers guests the chance to take a true hands-on approach to science. Popular<br />

attractions include a dome theater for educational 3D films, daily science workshops and a<br />

giant globe-like display which floats above the large atrium. The true star of the museum,<br />

however, is ASIMO, a humanoid robot made by Honda that performs<br />

an impressive demo of its abilities, including running,<br />

dancing and doing sign language, at several<br />

times throughout the day.<br />

TV PARTY<br />

Architecturally speaking, there are<br />

several unique buildings in Odaiba,<br />

like the <strong>Tokyo</strong> Big Sight convention<br />

center, the Museum of Maritime<br />

Science and the Telecom Center,<br />

but no building stands out quite<br />

like Fuji TV Studios. Designed by<br />

noted architect Kenzo Tange, the<br />

futuristic structure is festooned with<br />

a 30-meter wide, silver metallic ball<br />

that sits 120 meters off the ground.<br />

The sphere, known as Hachitama,<br />

houses an observation deck and a<br />

pricey restaurant. Fans of Fuji TV can<br />

take guided tours through the studios<br />

to see where programs like the longrunning<br />

morning show Mezamashi<br />

TV are made.<br />

MALLRATS<br />

If shopping is your idea of fun, then<br />

Odaiba might just be the perfect place for<br />

you. There are several malls in the area,<br />

Diver City being the top destination. The<br />

mall features hundreds of retail stores<br />

and restaurants, the Zepp Diver City<br />

music venue and much more, but the real<br />

draw is the 18-meter Gundam statue that<br />

sits out front. And although the original<br />

statue was in the process of being dismantled<br />

at press time, a new, even bigger one<br />

will take its place later this year. If you<br />

think giant mechs are overkill, nearby<br />

Aqua City mall has a replica 50s American<br />

diner and a very real modern-day<br />

Taco Bell. If looking for a more scenic<br />

sit-down restaurant, Decks <strong>Tokyo</strong> Beach<br />

has several floors of eateries with dining<br />

rooms facing the sunset-favoring bay.<br />

TOKYO WEEKENDER | | MARCH APRIL <strong>2017</strong> | 9


STYLE<br />

GIUSEPPE<br />

ZANOTTI JUNE<br />

SHOES<br />

These sky-high heels are truly a<br />

work of art: the <strong>2017</strong> Giuseppe<br />

Zanotti spring collection was indeed<br />

inspired by the paintings of Botticelli,<br />

as a modern representation of<br />

the female image. While the pink<br />

flower motif conveys cuteness and<br />

femininity, the fierce stiletto heel<br />

gives the shoe an edge. Wear them<br />

to stroll around Ginza, where they<br />

will be right at home, whether<br />

you pair them with jeans or with a<br />

sequined cocktail dress.<br />

TOP SIX FROM<br />

GINZA SIX<br />

AS TOKYO’S LATEST LUXURY SHOPPING COMPLEX,<br />

GINZA SIX, OPENS ITS GRAND DOORS, HERE’S OUR LUST<br />

LIST OF EXCLUSIVE, LIMITED-EDITION ITEMS ON OFFER<br />

Compiled by Vivian Morelli<br />

DISCORD BY<br />

YOHJI YAMAMOTO<br />

FLOWER SERIES<br />

This Ginza branch of Discord by<br />

Yohji Yamamoto is the first and<br />

only shop for the line in the world.<br />

Discord was launched in 2014<br />

with this successful Flower series,<br />

which was reprinted especially<br />

for the opening of Ginza Six.<br />

The collection presents bags,<br />

wallets and scarves sporting the<br />

monotone cactus flower motifs.<br />

All the items are sleek and chic,<br />

with clean lines and flawless<br />

design – as we would expect<br />

from Mr. Yamamoto.


CITIZEN<br />

CAMPANOLA<br />

MECHANICAL KINRAN<br />

WATCH<br />

The design of this limited-edition Citizen<br />

watch depicts the streets of Ginza back<br />

in the early Meiji era, during which Japan<br />

opened up its trade and modernized. This<br />

watch blends the traditional Japanese<br />

craft of lacquer, which is used for the<br />

decoration of the dial, with contrasts of<br />

stunning black and 18k yellow gold. The<br />

mechanics are provided by Swiss horology<br />

master La Joux-Perret. Pair this unique<br />

piece with both everyday looks for the<br />

office and formal attire.<br />

MAISON<br />

MARGIELA DRESS<br />

Every wardrobe needs the<br />

quintessential little black dress, and<br />

this embroidered tea dress from<br />

Maison Margiela is a fun twist on the<br />

classic item. This asymmetrical design<br />

features delicate silver embroidery on<br />

one shoulder and sleeve, and a front<br />

twist that makes the fabric fall and<br />

drape beautifully. Pair it with minimal<br />

accessories and simple flats to keep<br />

the spotlight on the exquisite details.<br />

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS<br />

BOUTON D’OR RING<br />

To celebrate the opening of Ginza Six, French jeweler<br />

Van Cleef & Arpels designed this statement piece,<br />

which skillfully combines some rose gold, white gold<br />

and diamonds. The ring is part of their brand-new<br />

Bouton d’Or collection, which is all about curved lines<br />

and a reinterpretation of a motif from their 1930s<br />

creations. The Bouton d’Or ring has been released in<br />

the Ginza branch before any of its other worldwide<br />

stores, so try to get your hand (literally) on this<br />

exclusive and classic piece.<br />

JIMMY CHOO<br />

RUBEN SNEAKERS<br />

When in doubt, reach out for the Jimmy Choos. While the<br />

popular shoe and accessories brand is mostly known for<br />

women’s shoes and Sex and the City-style stilettos, they also<br />

make footwear for men, including these denim-blue kicks.<br />

Only available in Ginza, these Rock Spirit sneakers feature<br />

a whopping 174 hemispherical studs on each shoe (do the<br />

math!) – a fusion of luxury and punk rock.


[ PROMOTION ]<br />

SUMMER IN THE CITY<br />

Spending the sunny season in <strong>Tokyo</strong>? Here are five reasons why<br />

Grand Hyatt <strong>Tokyo</strong> is the best place to chill<br />

Whether you’re visiting the<br />

Big Mikan from afar, or<br />

you’re a local looking for<br />

shelter from the sweltering<br />

city heat, Grand Hyatt <strong>Tokyo</strong> provides<br />

five-star service whatever your needs may<br />

be. With a great location in the center of<br />

the city, plenty of restaurants, soothing<br />

spa treatments and exciting events all<br />

summer, you’ll find this dynamic lifestyle<br />

destination the ideal oasis from the<br />

sizzling streets.<br />

structures – perfect for a relaxing stroll.<br />

Summer festivals and other events are<br />

held in the area all season. For those<br />

seeking adventure further afield, the hotel<br />

is only three minutes’ away from the<br />

nearest metro station, which can spirit<br />

you away to major tourist destinations<br />

like the electronic heaven of Akihabara,<br />

the Ginza luxury shopping district, or the<br />

historic Tsukiji fish market.<br />

LOCATION, LOCATION,<br />

LOCATION<br />

Situated in the heart of Roppongi’s cultural<br />

and shopping hub, Grand Hyatt <strong>Tokyo</strong> is<br />

only a stone’s throw away from several art<br />

galleries and museums, movie theaters,<br />

upscale shopping venues and fine dining<br />

options. There are several inner-city<br />

garden spaces nearby with public art<br />

12 | FEBRUARY <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER


INTIMATE AL<br />

FRESCO DINING<br />

OFFERS A VITAMIN D<br />

INJECTION<br />

Nothing says summer<br />

like eating outdoors, and<br />

whether you want to soak<br />

up some rays during the<br />

day or feel the cool breeze<br />

at night, Grand Hyatt<br />

<strong>Tokyo</strong> has four restaurants<br />

with terraces for open<br />

air dining. The French<br />

Kitchen, The Oak Door and<br />

Roku Roku offer a relaxing<br />

atmosphere up above the<br />

hustle and bustle of the<br />

busy city, while Fiorentina<br />

Italian Cafe allows<br />

diners to people watch,<br />

while shielded behind a<br />

protective line of trees.<br />

For guests staying at the<br />

hotel, glamorous Grand<br />

Club also has a private<br />

terrace for nightcaps in an<br />

exclusive setting.<br />

YOU CAN SIP SPIRITS AT DECADENT SUMMER SOIREES<br />

The swanky Soiree Blanche party series is back by popular demand. Held at The French Kitchen's<br />

airy terrace and bar every Saturday from June 24 to September 2, these luxurious events recreate<br />

the glitz and glamor of celebrity summer parties in the south of France during the 1970s. Wear all<br />

white, imagine you're in a St. Tropez paradise, and enjoy the drinks that flow freely for a full three<br />

hours as well as food from the grill and homemade ice cream. For a different kind of nostalgia,<br />

look out for news on the upcoming Showa Era Beer Garden event, which features Showa-inspired<br />

snacks, drinks, and tunes from the era.<br />

NAGOMI SPA<br />

AND FITNESS<br />

HELPS YOU PUT<br />

YOUR BEST FOOT<br />

FORWARD<br />

With summer just<br />

around the corner, it’s<br />

time to think about your<br />

wardrobe. As you switch<br />

from heavy boots to<br />

strappy sandals baring<br />

your feet, you may need<br />

to spruce up your nails to<br />

complete your summer<br />

look. Look no further<br />

than Nagomi Spa and<br />

Fitness, where manicures<br />

and pedicures are<br />

now among the many<br />

stellar services on offer.<br />

If touched up toes aren’t<br />

your priority, there is a<br />

pool and a fully equipped<br />

gym to get those gains<br />

for that perfect summer<br />

bod. Nagomi is only open<br />

to members and guests,<br />

but signing up is simple.<br />

Better yet, why not treat<br />

yourself to a staycation<br />

and book an overnight<br />

retreat along with your<br />

spa day?<br />

THERE ARE (N)ICE NIBBLES<br />

TO KEEP YOU COOL<br />

Grand Hyatt <strong>Tokyo</strong> boasts no less than 10 bars and<br />

restaurants in its repertoire, serving everything<br />

from sumptuous sushi to palate-pleasing pastries.<br />

Each venue has polished up their menus fit for<br />

a sizzling summer dining experience. There are<br />

delectable dishes to cool you down while taking<br />

the culinary arts to new heights: Keyakizaka’s<br />

liquid nitrogen ice cream uses fresh mangoes from<br />

Okinawa and is made by chefs at your table as<br />

you watch on. The Oak Door’s ice cream burgers<br />

are an easy-to-eat treat, and Chinaroom has cold<br />

tsukemen noodles if you’re looking for something<br />

savory. With so many options to choose from, the<br />

Grand Hyatt <strong>Tokyo</strong> is your (chilled) oyster.<br />

CONTACT<br />

Grand Hyatt <strong>Tokyo</strong><br />

6-10-3 Roppongi, Minato-ku | Tel: 03-4333-1234<br />

Web: tokyo.grand.hyatt.com<br />

TOKYO WEEKENDER | FEBRUARY <strong>2017</strong> | 13


To coincide with the launch of our brand-new website, we've taken our monthly Concierge<br />

supplement online. Here, we share this month's editor's picks from the lineup, but for the full<br />

roundup of great restaurants, hotels, and other top venues around <strong>Tokyo</strong> – as well as reader<br />

discounts and special offers – simply head to www.tokyoweekender.com<br />

Elana Jade<br />

Summer is just around the corner, and Elana Jade offers<br />

a range of deluxe beauty treatments that will have you looking<br />

beautiful from head to toe. Know someone in need<br />

of pampering? We also have gift vouchers for all occasions.<br />

Special offer: Get radiant, supple skin with the relaxing Conditioning<br />

Facial (includes cleanse, steam, exfoliation, massage,<br />

mask and moisturize), 60 minutes for ¥10,000 (normal price<br />

¥13,000), valid until the end of <strong>May</strong>.<br />

NUA Japan<br />

Currently celebrating their eighth anniversary, NUA Japan<br />

offers a range of pampering treatments including manicures,<br />

pedicures, hair removal and facials. Take your facial<br />

a step further with the new IonActive Power Treatment,<br />

which combines Dermalogica’s most powerful products to treat acne,<br />

pigmentation and ageing skin. Competition: NUA Japan is offering<br />

one lucky winner a year’s worth of facials! To enter, simply book a<br />

facial at NUA’s Omotesando or Hiroo branches before August 31.<br />

ABOUT TOWN | EDITORS CHOICE<br />

www.elanajade.com<br />

03-6453-9319<br />

4F NS Azabu Juban Building, 3-6-2 Azabu Juban, Minato-ku<br />

nuajapan.com<br />

03-6804-5285 (Omotesando), 03-3444-3055 (Hiroo)<br />

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RESTAURANTS | EDITORS CHOICE<br />

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14 | MAY <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER


Fujimoto Dental Clinic<br />

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www.owlcafe-search.com<br />

ABOUT TOWN | EDITORS CHOICE<br />

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WANT TO FEATURE YOUR ESTABLISHMENT IN THE CONCIERGE?<br />

For ad sales enquiries, please call 03-6432-9948 or email sales@tokyoweekender.com<br />

TOKYO WEEKENDER | MAY <strong>2017</strong> | 15


16 | APRIL MARCH <strong>2017</strong> | | TOKYO WEEKENDER


BEYOND THE OBVIOUS...<br />

A hyperreal body artist whose layered work makes you look thrice; a couple who chose<br />

an unlikely destination for their engagement photos; a new book that takes you into<br />

Japan's underground musical scene; and the country's hidden poverty crisis.<br />

TOKYO WEEKENDER | APRIL <strong>2017</strong> | 17


THE HYPERREAL BODY ARTIST<br />

Hikaru Cho admits that her body art is not<br />

to everyone’s taste. Reactions vary greatly<br />

amongst those who see it, but that’s fine<br />

with her. Good or bad, the most important<br />

thing is that it leaves an impression.<br />

"Some people are amazed, others appreciate the<br />

technique, then there are those who are grossed out<br />

by it all," Cho says, laughing. "I don't think my work<br />

is grotesque at all so I find it quite interesting when I<br />

hear that. But it's better than someone having no opinion<br />

at all."<br />

It was a lack of paper in the room where she was<br />

studying one day that prompted the former Musashino<br />

University student to take up a career in body art. With<br />

no other canvas around, she decided to draw an eye on<br />

her friend's hand, and things took off from there. After<br />

posting her work online, Cho was given the opportunity to<br />

draw for Amnesty International's My Body My Rights campaign<br />

to coincide with International Women's Day in 2014.<br />

The collaboration – which featured in major global newspapers<br />

like The Independent and The Telegraph – attracted new<br />

audiences and raised her global profile.<br />

It led to an increased interest in her work and subsequently<br />

she's been kept busy over the past couple of years. Projects<br />

have included designs for CD covers and clothes, directing music<br />

videos and creating visuals for advertisements. She's currently<br />

working on a comic book that will be released this summer.<br />

"I draw inspiration from everyday things and my own general<br />

feelings," Cho says. "I think the realistic way I paint sets it apart<br />

from other body art out there. I try to convey messages to fight stereotypes<br />

and cast doubt on common sense. My dream is that people<br />

will look at the artwork and start thinking differently about things."<br />

IT’S NOT THE NORM TO STAND OUT<br />

FROM THE CROWD HERE, BUT THESE<br />

FOUR JAPANESE ARTISTS AND<br />

PERFORMERS GO TO THE<br />

EXTREME TO DO JUST THAT<br />

Words by Matthew Hernon<br />

© Tomonori Muraoka<br />

THE ACROBAT AND MARTIAL ARTIST<br />

© Hikaru Cho, photo by Katuaki Sato<br />

A<br />

two-time Extreme Martial Arts Japan champion,<br />

Tomonori Muraoka has been putting his body on<br />

the line for over a decade. It was the films of Jackie<br />

Chan that first piqued his interest in combat training<br />

when he was a high school student in Saitama. "I joined<br />

Japan Action Enterprise," Muraoka says. "It's a renowned<br />

establishment that was founded by Sonny Chiba (initially<br />

under the name Japan Action Club). We studied stunt performing,<br />

gymnastics, martial arts and jazz dance. I was the<br />

youngest in the class so it was quite intimidating early on.”<br />

Muraoka’s confidence and reputation soon grew.<br />

During his time with the agency he was chosen to perform<br />

in popular movies such as GeGeGe no Kitaro and<br />

20th Century Boys as well as the theatrical extravaganza<br />

Takizawa Kabuki. At the age of 24 he decided to go<br />

it alone. “My ambitions had changed,” he says.<br />

“My goal was, and still is, to perform for Cirque<br />

du Soleil, which meant focusing more on acrobatic<br />

skills than stunts. I didn’t get through the auditions<br />

in the States last year, but I was invited backstage<br />

by the company director who praised my routine<br />

and told me to try out again soon, which was encouraging<br />

to hear.”<br />

Another of Muraoka’s long-term aspirations<br />

is to bring the Cirque du Monde – a circus program<br />

that reaches out to marginalized kids – to<br />

Japan. For now, though, he is focused on improving<br />

his technique and continuing to entertain<br />

audiences with his spellbinding skills.


THE ILLUSIONIST<br />

After a brief introduction, HARA passes<br />

me his business card through the<br />

screen of his cellphone. It's a trick he<br />

teaches businesspeople with the intention<br />

of lightening the mood at meetings.<br />

The Japanese illusionist, who's been wowing international<br />

audiences for many years, shot to fame in<br />

2016 when he turned himself into a pigeon on America’s<br />

Got Talent. It mesmerized the judges, including Simon<br />

Cowell, who said, "For those two minutes it was like<br />

being in the happiest place.”<br />

“Knowing his reputation, I was delighted to hear<br />

that,” HARA tells <strong>Weekender</strong>. “Sometimes I’ll see skeptical<br />

eyes in the audience, particularly amongst men, but when<br />

I perform, their faces light up. That’s the power of magic.”<br />

HARA became intrigued by magic at the age of five<br />

when a clown handed him some crystal that he'd created<br />

from a bubble. Two years later the youngster started doing<br />

his own tricks. "My dream was to be a singer like my mum,"<br />

he says. "I sang at a school talent show and got no reaction<br />

whatsoever. The following year I decided to buy a magic kit<br />

and perform what I'd learned. Everyone was amazed and I felt<br />

like a superstar.”<br />

Practicing every day, the self-taught magician from the mountains<br />

of Kumano soon started making a name for himself, and at<br />

17 competed in a world teens' magic tournament in Las Vegas. "I<br />

didn't win," he says matter-of-factly. "Rather than trying to entertain,<br />

I showed off. After watching Cirque du Soleil, I changed my<br />

act, becoming more of an illusionist than a magician. Twelve months<br />

later I triumphed at the competition."<br />

That success led to offers from all over the world, and despite not<br />

taking home the top prize on AGT, his run to the quarter-finals further<br />

increased his popularity. He’s only 26, but we get the distinct feeling<br />

there's plenty more to come from the man known as HARA.<br />

Photo by Reiko Wakai<br />

THE CONTORTIONIST<br />

In a largely conformist society, Rika Maruyama has never been<br />

afraid to stand out from the crowd. While her friends were enrolling<br />

at college and taking on office jobs she decided to start<br />

a career in contortionism, despite not initially knowing what<br />

the word meant.<br />

“Having done rhythmic gymnastics throughout my youth<br />

I've always had a limber body, and someone suggested I'd make<br />

a good contortionist," Maruyama says. "I eventually Googled it<br />

– after racking my brain for three weeks trying to remember<br />

what the word was – and was immediately captivated. I'd never<br />

seen anything like that in Japan." Maruyama spent hours<br />

watching videos online and was particularly enthralled by<br />

the performances of Mongolians Ulziibuyan Mergen, Oyun-<br />

Erdene Senge and Tsetseglen Odgerel. Feeling inspired, she<br />

decided to enroll at a nearby studio.<br />

In terms of flexibility, the then-18-year-old clearly<br />

had great potential, but what she lacked was physical<br />

strength. She's worked hard, building up her muscles with<br />

a strict fitness regime that includes handstand push-ups.<br />

Now in her fourth year as a contortionist, Maruyama is<br />

Japan's leading figure in the discipline. Admittedly she<br />

doesn't have much competition, but it's still been an impressive<br />

rise in a short time.<br />

"It's not exactly a stable profession," she says. "I<br />

teach regularly and there will be months when I'll<br />

have lots of commercials and shows booked; other<br />

times it's quiet. What I enjoy most is the freedom of<br />

being able to plan my own routines. Contortionism<br />

isn't well known here so I hope to raise its profile in<br />

Japan and perform all over the world. It probably<br />

won't be a lengthy career because of the physical<br />

demands so I have to make the most of it and continue<br />

striving to be the best."<br />

TOKYO WEEKENDER | MAY <strong>2017</strong> | 19


WHY ONE YOUNG COUPLE CHOSE JAPAN’S EERIE,<br />

ABANDONED NARA DREAMLAND THEME PARK FOR<br />

CELEBRATING THEIR NEW LIFE TOGETHER<br />

Words by Alec Jordan. Photographs by Anna, and Casey Hawkins


What better way to celebrate an<br />

engagement than spending a<br />

late afternoon taking "usfies"<br />

at an abandoned amusement<br />

park? This inspiration is what<br />

drew Anna and her fiancé Max to Nara Dreamland,<br />

a theme park that had gone to seed<br />

a decade earlier.<br />

The park was the brainchild of businessman<br />

Kunizo Matsuo, who visited Disneyland on a<br />

trip to the US in the 1950s. After witnessing the<br />

popularity of Disney's then-new creation, he hit<br />

upon the idea of bringing the Magic Kingdom to<br />

Japan – specifically, to Japan’s very first capital<br />

city, Nara. Matsuo got in touch with Walt Disney,<br />

the two parties appear to have struck a deal, and<br />

some of the engineers who had been involved<br />

in the original Disneyland were brought in to<br />

consult on what could have become the Happiest<br />

Place in Japan.<br />

But before work was completed on the new<br />

location, Disney and Matsuo came to a sticking<br />

point on licensing and franchising terms, and the<br />

deal fell through. In addition to paying for the<br />

help from Disney’s engineers, Matsuo Entertainment<br />

Company had to come up with their own<br />

original characters that would greet guests at the<br />

park that opened its gates in 1961. So, instead<br />

of Mickey and Minnie, it was say hello to Ranchan<br />

and Dori-chan, two forgettable little tykes<br />

dressed in soldier suits and bearskin caps.<br />

While the Disney crew was nowhere to be<br />

found, Dreamland did bear a striking resemblance<br />

to that Magic Kingdom in Anaheim,<br />

California. And it was pretty popular in Japan,<br />

drawing more than 1.5 million visitors a year<br />

when business was at its best. A second Dreamland,<br />

this one in Yokohama, was built in 1964.<br />

However, by the late 70s, the requiem for the<br />

Dreamland was being composed: the Oriental<br />

Land Company was in talks with Disney to create<br />

what would become <strong>Tokyo</strong> Disneyland, which<br />

finally opened in 1983.<br />

<strong>Tokyo</strong> Disneyland took a toll on Nara Dream-<br />

22 | MAY <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER


THE PARK<br />

HAS BECOME<br />

A MECCA<br />

FOR LOVERS<br />

OF HAIKYO –<br />

ABANDONED<br />

BUILDINGS<br />

land’s popularity, but about a million guests were still<br />

making it there every year in the 80s. It wasn’t until<br />

2001, when <strong>Tokyo</strong> DisneySea launched and Universal<br />

Studios Japan began action in nearby Osaka, that<br />

the nightmare really began. Attendance dropped<br />

to 400,000 visitors a year, shops at the amusement<br />

park began to close, and rides started showing their<br />

age. Nara Dreamland was finally shuttered in 2006<br />

(Yokohama Dreamland had closed four years before),<br />

the owners of the park stopped paying property taxes,<br />

and the ill-fated amusement park became the property<br />

of the municipal government.<br />

In the decade that followed, Nara Dreamland<br />

became a mecca for lovers of haikyo (abandoned<br />

buildings) who were willing to brave two layers of<br />

chain-link fence topped with barbed wire, security<br />

patrols, and stiff punishments that were handed out<br />

to trespassers (hefty fines, and potential visa "complications"<br />

for foreigners). A steady stream of daring<br />

shutterbugs made their way to the park, and the<br />

photos started making their way around the internet.<br />

Anna first heard of Nara Dreamland about five<br />

years back: "I saw one of those Buzzfeed-y style lists<br />

of 'the most interesting abandoned places in the<br />

world' and on the list were places you'd never want<br />

to go, like Chernobyl; places far enough away that I<br />

could never feasibly reach them, like the Wonderland<br />

in China's Chenzhuang Village; and places long destroyed,<br />

including Gulliver's Kingdom near Fujisawa.<br />

Then, finally, I saw 'Nara Dreamland.' To my delight,<br />

some Googling showed me that it was within Nara<br />

city limits, certainly not yet demolished, and, better<br />

yet, there was tons of information online about how<br />

to access it."<br />

Although she's not a haikyo hunter, Anna is a<br />

professional photographer who recognizes the allure<br />

of these left-behind places, in both rural areas and<br />

TOKYO WEEKENDER | MAY <strong>2017</strong> | 23


in the heart of the biggest city on Earth: "My<br />

friends and I have explored parts of Fukushima<br />

(not the regulated areas that are unsafe due to<br />

radiation), Gifu, Odawara, and even Sagamiko<br />

Lake, which all had buildings left behind, from<br />

bowling centers to ice cream shops and boat<br />

harbors. Even walking through <strong>Tokyo</strong> you can<br />

come across an alleyway that you can imagine<br />

was once a hideaway of little bars, but is all<br />

boarded up. Particularly in Japan, abandoned<br />

places are especially fascinating because of the<br />

care that we know people put into maintaining<br />

businesses while they were active; to see<br />

them left at a standstill, even while the rest of<br />

the city moves on, is always so interesting ...<br />

It feels like a lot of heart was left behind, in a<br />

gut-wrenching manner."<br />

Since reading about it, Anna continued to<br />

follow up on news about Nara Dreamland. She<br />

knew that there were plans to demolish the<br />

park, and she and Max had plans to return to<br />

the US. "I knew my window to safely get inside<br />

was opening up slowly, but would snap shut<br />

altogether very soon ... With weeks left on our<br />

visas, and enough money to cover us in case<br />

of emergency, I pored over maps and blogs for<br />

24 | MAY <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER


THESE PHOTOS ARE NOT AS GLAMOROUS AS AN AVERAGE ENGAGEMENT<br />

SHOOT, BUT WE FEEL THAT THEIR RAWNESS REPRESENTS US<br />

tens of hours (my fiancé can vouch for that!) as I<br />

did not want to simply 'bust in' and treat it lightly.<br />

I still wanted to do it carefully."<br />

On a late afternoon last <strong>May</strong>, when the couple<br />

finally made it to Dreamland, there were plenty of<br />

nerves, which were – appropriately, perhaps – accompanied<br />

by a funhouse atmosphere: "[At first]<br />

we panicked over every small noise, and even<br />

ducked into a shed for nearly 20 minutes before<br />

we realized we were simply being paranoid. We<br />

also realized the voices we heard inside were<br />

not security at all, but at least two dozen other<br />

'tourists' inside at the same time! We came across<br />

a family, another couple, some brave souls climbing<br />

the Matterhorn, people hiking up the roller<br />

coaster, and other wanderers – even a girl who<br />

had honestly walked right into the park, not even<br />

aware she wasn't supposed to be inside at all ...<br />

There were some sites we had wanted to see but<br />

never got the chance to, as we had gone in around<br />

sunset, and it was getting dark – fast. When the<br />

sun finally set, we took off sprinting like madmen,<br />

but couldn't stop laughing once we were out!"<br />

In the long run, Anna and Max got in – and<br />

out – just in time. "Not a month after we left did<br />

they bulldoze the huge wooden roller coaster that<br />

had once been the pinnacle of Japanese theme<br />

parks. We also couldn't help feeling a bit of pride,<br />

getting in during the final moments that it stood.<br />

We will certainly cherish the photos, which help<br />

us tell a great story! These photos are not nearly<br />

as glamorous or pristine as an average engagement<br />

shoot, but we are pretty proud of what we<br />

managed to capture, and feel that their rawness<br />

represents us: someplace new, someplace old,<br />

someplace we shouldn't be, hearts pounding,<br />

nervous smiles and all.”<br />

TOKYO WEEKENDER | MAY <strong>2017</strong> | 25


Although Prime Minister Shinzo Abe has stated there is "no way" Japan is in poverty,<br />

statistics show that 54% of single-parent families, and 16% of children, are living<br />

below the poverty line. Matthew Hernon investigates the country’s hidden crisis<br />

When Hiroko Kondo opened Japan's<br />

first children's café (kodomo shokudo)<br />

in 2012 she had no idea the<br />

impact it would have. Owner of a<br />

vegetable shop called Kimagure Yaoya Dandan, she<br />

decided to use the space to create an environment<br />

where children – either living in relative poverty<br />

or left alone in the evenings – could eat healthy<br />

dinners twice a month at heavily discounted prices.<br />

Five years on and there are now hundreds of stores<br />

like it throughout the country.<br />

“A friend working at an elementary school<br />

nearby told me one student wasn’t eating properly<br />

because of a sick mother,” Kondo says. “She wasn't<br />

able to cook so there were days when the child<br />

would eat school lunch and a banana, and that was<br />

it. You see so much food around, it shocked me that<br />

there were people not getting enough. I wanted to<br />

do something, but it took me two years to decide,<br />

and by the time I finally did, the child in question<br />

had left home to live in an institution. I regret waiting<br />

so long, yet at the same time I'm glad this café<br />

has inspired others to do something similar."<br />

Kondo estimates there are around 400 children’s<br />

cafeterias in Japan right now. Some offer<br />

meals for free, occasionally with the proviso that<br />

the children help out, others charge a small amount.<br />

At Dandan – located in Hasunuma, <strong>Tokyo</strong> – minors<br />

can enjoy an organic meal for the price of one coin;<br />

any coin. Initially bimonthly, the service is now<br />

open every Thursday from 5:30pm. During our visit,<br />

the shop, which seats around 20 people, filled up<br />

quickly. On other days, the place is often used as a<br />

classroom with lessons for adults and kids.<br />

In <strong>Tokyo</strong>'s Toshima district, Chieko Kuribayashi's<br />

non-profit organization Wakuwaku has taken things<br />

further. "As well as the cafés and learning centers, we<br />

have a play park for children left alone after school<br />

because of parents' work commitments," she tells<br />

<strong>Weekender</strong>. "We'll soon be starting a service called<br />

Wakuwaku Home which will see volunteers visiting<br />

various houses simply to lend an ear."<br />

26 | MAY <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER


Perspective drawing of The Nippon Foundation’s Onomichi<br />

facility for children, which is set to open in July<br />

Outside of Toshima, Kuribayashi, who<br />

launched the NPO in 2014, networks with<br />

other volunteer organizations including<br />

Kondo's group, and both ladies are pleased<br />

with the recent work that's being done from<br />

the bottom up in Japan. When it comes to the<br />

government, though, they're not so positive.<br />

At a Diet committee session last January,<br />

Prime Minister Shinzo Abe stated that there<br />

was "no way" Japan was in poverty, and that<br />

by global standards the country was "definitely<br />

one of the wealthiest." The most recent<br />

survey on child poverty, however, appears to<br />

refute his claims.<br />

According to the Ministry of Health, Labour<br />

and Welfare roughly one in six children<br />

(16.3%) in Japan under the age of 18 were<br />

living in relative poverty in<br />

2012. The measurement of<br />

relative poverty – defined by<br />

the Organisation for Economic<br />

Co-operation and Development<br />

(OECD) as those with<br />

incomes at or below half the<br />

median national disposable<br />

income – has been dismissed<br />

by some politicians in the<br />

LDP, yet whichever way you<br />

look at it, Japan's current economic<br />

situation is not as rosy<br />

as the Prime Minister makes<br />

out. Figures for single-parent<br />

households are even more<br />

startling: 54.6% are reportedly living below<br />

the poverty line, the highest amongst the<br />

OECD member countries.<br />

Over the past four decades the number<br />

of single mothers in Japan has increased<br />

from an estimated 626,200 in 1973 to more<br />

than 1.2 million. Concerned about the growing<br />

numbers receiving dependent children's<br />

allowances, the government introduced reforms<br />

in 2003 that encouraged single mothers<br />

to work. The current employment rate<br />

for single mothers is around 80%, however<br />

less than 40% work full-time. Many require<br />

one or two part-time jobs with little pay and<br />

not enough time to spend with their kids.<br />

Last year, the children's allowance<br />

(which depends on income) for one-parent<br />

families increased slightly from ¥9,780-<br />

¥41,420 per month to ¥9,990-¥42,330. (The<br />

IT'S A KIND<br />

OF POVERTY<br />

THAT'S<br />

DIFFICULT TO<br />

IDENTIFY<br />

additional allowance for a second child<br />

increased from ¥5,000 to ¥10,000.) Shizuoka<br />

City resident Ruko Yamagata, whose son<br />

recently started elementary school, receives<br />

¥42,320 while also working for a suit company.<br />

She earns enough to cover food and bills,<br />

but not much else. “I only work a few hours<br />

because it’s important to be there when<br />

my son comes home,” Yamagata says. “The<br />

money I get is barely enough to put food on<br />

the table. Days can be physically and mentally<br />

draining. Things have become easier<br />

since he graduated from kindergarten, but<br />

in the future, you have cram school and club<br />

activities to consider. It feels like a constant<br />

battle.” After Yamagata divorced her ex-husband,<br />

he began paying what she describes<br />

as “a small amount” to assist<br />

with their son's upbringing.<br />

The money was reduced after<br />

he had another baby with his<br />

second wife, and Yamagata is<br />

not sure if the payment will<br />

continue.<br />

Hayato Hanaoka, program<br />

director at The Nippon<br />

Foundation and author of<br />

the book Kodomo no Hinkon<br />

ga Nihon wo Horobosu<br />

(Child Poverty <strong>May</strong> Destroy<br />

Japan), says that this situation<br />

is common in Japan<br />

because of weak divorce<br />

laws. "After my father left he didn't pay any<br />

child allowance," Hanaoka tells us. "When<br />

couples agree to a kyogi rikon (divorce<br />

by mutual consent), noncustodial parents<br />

are usually obliged to pay something for<br />

the upbringing of their kids, but this isn't<br />

enforced. Many single parents will receive<br />

money initially, then it will stop and there's<br />

nothing they can legally do about it. The<br />

financial burden can be great because the<br />

government offers little support.”<br />

“It's a kind of poverty that's difficult to<br />

identify. Kids from poor backgrounds often<br />

have cellphones and computer games, so<br />

on the surface everything looks fine, yet dig<br />

deeper and you see families struggling with<br />

the cost of education. Some can't afford<br />

cram school, leaving their children at a serious<br />

disadvantage. Future prospects for students<br />

from single-parent families are much<br />

bleaker because their grades are generally<br />

lower, and a significantly smaller percentage<br />

go to university. We estimate that the lifetime<br />

income of children currently aged 15 in Japan<br />

will be reduced by ¥2.9 trillion, and that will<br />

cost the government around ¥1.1 trillion.”<br />

Numerous Japanese NPOs have implemented<br />

initiatives attempting to break this<br />

chain of poverty, including Ashinaga, which<br />

provides interest-free loans for students<br />

who have lost a parent and are struggling<br />

financially. Last year, The Nippon Foundation<br />

opened a facility in Saitama called Third<br />

Place where up to 20 elementary school children<br />

can go five days a week between 2pm<br />

and 9pm to play, study and get a hot meal.<br />

The plan is to open 100 of them by 2020.<br />

"The substantial difference between<br />

our service and children's cafés or free<br />

cram schools is outreach," Hanaoka says.<br />

"Children aren't going to voluntarily raise<br />

their hands, so we knock on doors and visit<br />

schools to hear about potential problems.<br />

We assess their needs, then provide counselling<br />

and one-on-one tutorials. The target<br />

is children aged seven to 10 because that’s a<br />

very important time in terms of personal and<br />

educational development.” The main goal<br />

of the project is to investigate the long-term<br />

effects of academic programs for children in<br />

low-income families, research that Hanaoka<br />

feels is lacking in Japan. He believes it’s an issue<br />

the government cares little about, despite<br />

the ratification of the Law on Measures to<br />

Counter Child Poverty in 2014.<br />

“It was the Democratic Party that pushed<br />

for the new law,” Hanaoka says. “The LDP<br />

just jumped on the bandwagon as it makes<br />

it look as though they are doing something<br />

for kids in need when they don’t actually<br />

seem to care. With little investment and no<br />

specific monetary targets for this act, it feels<br />

like nothing has changed. What it has done<br />

is raise awareness about the issue and that’s<br />

something we need to keep pushing.”<br />

TEAM UP AGAINST<br />

POVERTY WITH OXFAM<br />

Established in the UK in 1942, Oxfam<br />

is a world-wide development organization<br />

that mobilizes the power<br />

of people against poverty. From<br />

June 3 to 5 this year, Oxfam Japan is<br />

holding the Trailwalker fundraising<br />

event in Fukushima, in which teams<br />

of four complete either a 50km or<br />

100km mountain trail. Money raised<br />

through Oxfam Trailwalker Tohoku<br />

<strong>2017</strong> will be used to implement projects<br />

in many of the poorest regions<br />

of the world to help end poverty and<br />

provide vital relief following natural<br />

disasters and conflicts as well as to<br />

support reconstruction of the Tohoku<br />

region. For more information and to<br />

register your team, go to oxfam-mng.<br />

com/web/web_e.html


MUSICAL NOTES<br />

FROM THE JAPANESE<br />

UNDERGROUND<br />

IF YOU DON’T BELIEVE THERE’S ANYTHING TO JAPANESE MUSIC<br />

BESIDES SUGARY SWEET J-POP AND ENKA, THEN IAN F. MARTIN’S<br />

NEW BOOK, QUIT YOUR BAND, IS A MUST-READ. LISA WALLIN SITS<br />

DOWN WITH THE AUTHOR AND MUSIC AFICIONADO TO HEAR MORE<br />

ABOUT THE BOOK AND JAPAN’S MUSIC SCENE<br />

Across from a cluster of holein-the-wall<br />

bars and izakayas<br />

under the tracks leading to<br />

Koenji Station sits Bamii, a<br />

cozy bar littered – no, piled<br />

high – with literal towers of vinyl of every<br />

genre and artist imaginable. The owners<br />

will play whatever you request, if they<br />

have it … and it’s very likely they do. It was<br />

here <strong>Weekender</strong> met with Japan Times<br />

columnist, record label owner, and now<br />

book author Ian F. Martin for an interview<br />

about his recently released book, Quit Your<br />

Band: Musical Notes from the Japanese<br />

Underground. He knows Japanese music as<br />

a consumer and a record label owner, and<br />

while he admits he can be biased about his<br />

favorite bands, his wealth of knowledge on<br />

the topic is unrivaled. To the sweet sounds<br />

of David Bowie crooning in the background,<br />

we asked…<br />

HOW DID THE BOOK COME ABOUT?<br />

The publisher, who is also a uni lecturer,<br />

suggested it four years ago. I said OK right<br />

away, but it took time to finish. The initial<br />

plan was to create a compilation of articles<br />

I’d written for the Japan Times and other<br />

publications, but I wasn’t really happy<br />

with the idea of disconnected ideas being<br />

lumped together. At the same time, the opportunity<br />

of a book was tempting, as it was<br />

a canvas I hadn’t had before. In the end,<br />

I’m still writing essays, but each of them<br />

is open ended with just enough of a thread<br />

to keep them together.<br />

WHAT WAS YOUR FAVORITE<br />

PART OF THE PROCESS?<br />

Thinking about writing the book, and<br />

then once it was done, being able to say,<br />

“I wrote a book.” [laughs]


I WANT FOREIGN<br />

READERS TO<br />

UNDERSTAND THAT<br />

JAPANESE MUSIC<br />

ISN’T JUST ALIEN<br />

AND WEIRD<br />

WHO SHOULD READ<br />

THIS BOOK?<br />

No one needs to read it. But it does give<br />

a context to Japanese music for foreign<br />

readers. I want them to understand that<br />

[Japanese music] isn’t just alien and<br />

weird – I want them to understand why<br />

it is the way it is. Japanese music isn’t an<br />

imitation, it’s not unknowable, and it’s on<br />

equal terms with Western music. Basically,<br />

the book sends two messages to different<br />

people. One is that people should simply<br />

get used to the system, while at the same<br />

OFFBEAT LIVE<br />

VENUES IN TOKYO<br />

Since live venues are using prime <strong>Tokyo</strong><br />

real estate, they can be small and awkwardly<br />

shaped. Other than that, they<br />

tend to be pretty standard fare – dark,<br />

nondescript interiors. However, there<br />

are a handful worth visiting regardless<br />

of the band playing, says Martin…<br />

SAKURADAI POOL<br />

A warehouse-style concrete basement<br />

venue down a narrow, steep staircase,<br />

with a load of monstrous sculptures and<br />

imaginary Mad Max-style vehicles made<br />

out of car parts. mdel.co.jp/pool<br />

HATAGAYA FORESTLIMIT<br />

Another raw, chaotic-looking basement<br />

venue. forestlimit.com<br />

OCHIAI SOUP<br />

Similar to ForestLimit, with the twist that<br />

they project a live video feed of the band<br />

performing onto the band themselves.<br />

ochiaisoup.com<br />

KOENJI MURYOKU MUZENJI<br />

Mad place, decorated with all kinds of<br />

weird stuff, but mostly photos, paintings<br />

and drawings the owner has made of his<br />

cats. muzenji.o.oo7.jp<br />

OKUBO SUIZOKUKAN<br />

Lots of fish. naks.biz/suizokukan<br />

time understand why it is the way it is.<br />

Also, I’d like those in the Japanese music<br />

industry to read it as well, but I’m kind of<br />

scared if they do…<br />

ANY FUTURE PROJECTS<br />

ON THE GO?<br />

Well, I spent five and a half months cycling<br />

around all 47 prefectures in Japan,<br />

so I will have to do a book about that I<br />

suppose, or my wife will get mad at me.<br />

She’ll wonder what the point of supporting<br />

me through that was, so I kind of have<br />

a responsibility to her if no-one else. I<br />

did that journey to learn about the local<br />

indie scenes in each prefecture. I suppose<br />

it’ll be a book about me, in the end, as all<br />

travel books are more about the traveler<br />

than about their travels.<br />

THE ULTIMATE MUSIC<br />

QUESTION: FUJI ROCK VS<br />

SUMMER SONIC?<br />

Fuji Rock! It forces you to break down<br />

expectations when you’re cut off from<br />

the rest of the world. They deliberately<br />

make you choose between similar bands<br />

or genres and force you to discover new<br />

bands either along the way to the next<br />

gig, or while you’re waiting for your<br />

band to play. It’s the whole weekend or<br />

nothing. At the same time, Summer Sonic<br />

is close to <strong>Tokyo</strong> and you can ride the last<br />

train home every day. A friend describes<br />

the event as “an algorithm for the max<br />

number of audience; it’s efficiently soulless<br />

and dead.” It also doesn’t have a real<br />

camping ground, so it loses something in<br />

terms of festival credibility there.<br />

___________________________________________<br />

BUY THE BOOK<br />

Quit Your Band offers a unique insight<br />

into the Japanese music industry – from<br />

its history to its current scene, foibles,<br />

and issues, and its potential future. If<br />

you don’t know where to start when it<br />

comes to Japanese music, or if you don’t<br />

believe there’s anything besides sugary<br />

sweet J-pop and enka, then this book is a<br />

must-read. Martin takes us on a downthe-rabbit-hole<br />

adventure through the ins<br />

and outs of the Japanese indie world and<br />

beyond, explaining the history and the<br />

“scene” of Japanese music.<br />

Quit Your Band – Music Notes from the Underground<br />

is available at <strong>Tokyo</strong> bookstores<br />

and on Amazon.<br />

For more by Ian F. Martin, see his<br />

Japan Times columns, his travel blog:<br />

burnyourhometown.wordpress.com, his<br />

music blog: clearandrefreshing.wordpress.<br />

com, and his record label’s website:<br />

callandresponse.jimdo.com<br />

M<br />

BEYOND<br />

J-POP<br />

Ian F. Martin recommends five<br />

albums to give you an intro to<br />

Japanese music<br />

“A LONG VACA-<br />

TION” BY EIICHI<br />

OHTAKI<br />

Immaculately<br />

produced, Beach<br />

Boys-influenced pop<br />

album by the former<br />

guitarist of Happy<br />

End. Spans the border between New Music<br />

and City Pop but manages to be something<br />

unique in itself.<br />

“ROOMIC CUBE”<br />

BY TAKAKO<br />

MINEKAWA<br />

The Shibuya-kei<br />

scene placed huge<br />

importance on the<br />

aesthetics of the<br />

music, but Takako<br />

Minekawa’s music also had this intimate,<br />

introverted quality to it that gives it an<br />

affecting sort of fragile honesty. Her albums<br />

also just explode with ideas and tunes galore.<br />

“IONIZATION” BY<br />

YOLZ IN THE SKY<br />

Starting out as a<br />

slightly off-kilter<br />

Osaka-based<br />

hardcore band, Yolz<br />

In The Sky morphed<br />

gradually into a sort<br />

of sparse, psychedelic techno duo. “Ionization”<br />

is the brutally minimal postpunk link between<br />

their hardcore and dance phases, and it’s<br />

magnificent.<br />

“HIKASHU” BY HIKASHU<br />

A key album in the early development of new<br />

wave and technopop (it features a magnificent<br />

cover of Kraftwerk’s “The Model”), there’s also<br />

something dark and theatrical about it that<br />

puts it in the tradition of Shuji Terayama, J A<br />

Seazer and <strong>Tokyo</strong> Kid Brothers.<br />

“THREE OUT CHANGE” BY SUPERCAR<br />

This is just an epic indie rock/shoegaze album<br />

and one of the all-time great Japanese rock<br />

albums that also stands proudly alongside<br />

almost any comparable music that came out<br />

of the UK or US in the 90s.<br />

TOKYO WEEKENDER | MAY <strong>2017</strong> | 29


[ PROMOTION ]<br />

Chef extraordinaire Bill Granger<br />

on being inspired by Japan’s<br />

visual culture, what he learnt<br />

from his butcher father and<br />

grandfather, and his favorite<br />

Bills branches including the<br />

latest opening in Ginza<br />

Interview by Catherine Ramshaw<br />

Moving away from a focus on laidback<br />

breakfasts, Bills recently opened<br />

a smart new branch in downtown<br />

Ginza, marking their seventh<br />

opening in Japan (fourth in <strong>Tokyo</strong>).<br />

Although you can still tuck into the signature creamy<br />

scrambled eggs and ricotta pancakes, there’s plenty<br />

more to look forward to here, including delights<br />

such as lobster linguine, yellow fish curry, wagyu<br />

burgers, and even a high tea menu. We met up with<br />

the man behind the brand, Bill Granger, in London<br />

to chat about his transition from artist to<br />

restaurateur, how his gap year in Japan influenced<br />

his style, and how he pushes people out of their<br />

food comfort zones.<br />

ONE OF YOUR FIRST LOVES WAS ART. WHAT<br />

ROLE DOES VISUAL ART STILL PLAY IN HOW<br />

YOU PREPARE YOUR MENUS AND PLAN YOUR<br />

RESTAURANTS?<br />

I started life as an art student, first studying architecture,<br />

then I changed over to fine arts, and I think for me the<br />

creative vision is always the start of everything. I’m excited<br />

by the visual; so whether it’s the way that food looks or<br />

the interiors of the restaurant, it’s the whole presentation.<br />

Restaurants are such a visual experience, so it’s still really<br />

important to me.<br />

© Anson Smart<br />

30 | MAY <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER


© Mikkel Vang<br />

FOR ME, THE<br />

CREATIVE VISION IS<br />

ALWAYS THE START<br />

OF EVERYTHING<br />

so that they’re comfortable. They’re not<br />

meant to be fine dining establishments,<br />

they’re meant to be pretty relaxed. Our<br />

dishes are based on food you want to eat<br />

all the time but also get excited about. Food<br />

is like fashion and you’re constantly getting<br />

new flavors that are coming through.<br />

In the past few years there have been so<br />

many more textures and different grains,<br />

CAN YOU TELL ME MORE ABOUT THE<br />

TRANSITION YOU MADE FROM AN ARTIST<br />

WHO WAS WAITING TABLES TO OPENING<br />

YOUR FIRST RESTAURANT? WERE THERE<br />

ANY REALLY PIVOTAL MOMENTS?<br />

Working with art is a solitary pursuit. I<br />

You’ve got to love people. My father,<br />

having been a butcher was very good<br />

at talking to people. Both my father and<br />

grandfather loved customers and I think<br />

that’s the most important thing in the<br />

restaurant business too. It’s not about<br />

nuts and seeds being used, so it’s always<br />

important for me to try new flavors and<br />

see what’s going on. I love going to other<br />

restaurants and seeing what people are<br />

using, and what’s happening. It’s fun.<br />

It’s very much like fashion in that way.<br />

started working in a restaurant part-time<br />

your ego or yourself; a lot of people<br />

to get some money whilst I studied, and fell<br />

misunderstand that when they start a<br />

in love with the collaborative effort and<br />

restaurant. You’re creating an empty space<br />

the energy of it. My father and grandfather<br />

that your customers are putting their lives<br />

had owned butcher shops, and so that idea<br />

into. You’ve got to be humble, you’ve got to<br />

of shop keeping was really normal for me.<br />

like people, and like working with people,<br />

When I was 22 my grandfather gave me<br />

getting the best out of them and inspiring<br />

some money, which he’d set aside for all of<br />

them to deliver the best possible results.<br />

his grand kids to borrow a little bit from,<br />

© Anson Smart<br />

so I thought what I’m going to do is open a<br />

restaurant, and it would almost be like my<br />

shop. That’s how it started.<br />

YOU WEREN’T FORMALLY TRAINED AS A<br />

CHEF, SO WHAT ARE SOME OF THE THINGS<br />

THAT HAVE HELPED YOU SUCCEED IN<br />

AN INDUSTRY THAT CAN OFTEN CHEW<br />

PEOPLE UP AND THEN SPIT THEM OUT?<br />

YOU SPENT YOUR GAP YEAR IN JAPAN<br />

WHEN YOU WERE 19; DID THAT<br />

EXPERIENCE HAVE AN INFLUENCE ON<br />

YOUR PERSONAL STYLE, AND YOUR<br />

STYLE AS A RESTAURATEUR?<br />

Absolutely. I’d grown up in the 80s when<br />

the Japanese influence and aesthetic was<br />

really big in terms of popular culture,<br />

music and style. Then when I went there<br />

in the early 90s I was totally blown away<br />

by the Japanese attitude to the visual – the<br />

craft in the way people dressed, interiors,<br />

objects; it’s an incredibly visual culture,<br />

which was really inspiring to me. I was<br />

also inspired by how people ate well all the<br />

time, not just in the really high end places,<br />

but in the simple udon or ramen shops.<br />

Even cheap places were still beautifully<br />

designed and thought out, and that really<br />

inspired me when I was first starting Bills.<br />

© Anson Smart<br />

OUT OF THE MANY RESTAURANTS THAT<br />

YOU’VE OPENED SINCE 1993, DO YOU<br />

HAVE ANY FAVORITES?<br />

There are different restaurants in different<br />

countries that feel a bit more emotional.<br />

The first Bills in Sydney is very important to<br />

me, because that’s where I learnt my trade.<br />

I think in Japan I love Shichirigahama,<br />

our first restaurant on the ocean – that’s<br />

beautiful. I love Omotesando because it’s<br />

right in the center and when I was on my<br />

gap year I used to live around there, so it<br />

HOW DO YOU STRIKE A BALANCE<br />

BETWEEN COMFORT FOOD AND<br />

PUSHING PEOPLE PAST THEIR COMFORT<br />

ZONES WITH NEW AND INTERESTING<br />

OFFERINGS?<br />

The interiors of my restaurants are<br />

reminds me of being a 20-year-old. Our<br />

new restaurant in Ginza is absolutely<br />

beautiful and I think London, Notting Hill<br />

which is close to my home is a favorite.<br />

It’s my local as well.<br />

everyday places – almost home. When<br />

For more information about Bills<br />

people come in, the environment is created<br />

restaurants in Japan, visit billsjapan.com/jp<br />

TOKYO WEEKENDER | MAY <strong>2017</strong> | 31


[ PROMOTION ]<br />

EXPLORE<br />

THE SPECIAL<br />

GARDENS<br />

OF YOKOHAMA<br />

THIS MONTH, THE GARDEN NECKLACE <strong>2017</strong><br />

EVENT GIVES THE CITY’S ALREADY BEAUTIFUL<br />

PARKS AND GARDENS AN EXTRA DOSE OF COLOR<br />

Words by Matthew Hernon<br />

A<br />

vibrant and picturesque city<br />

known for its historic downtown<br />

port district, futuristic architecture<br />

and unique museums,<br />

Yokohama is arguably one of Japan’s most<br />

attractive sightseeing areas. It’s a place that’s<br />

worth visiting at any time of year, though<br />

we recommend taking a trip there sometime<br />

in the next couple of months to enjoy the<br />

Garden Necklace flower event that’s taking<br />

place until June 4. With over one million<br />

flowers on display at various destinations,<br />

it’s all part of the National Urban Greenery<br />

Fair, which helps cities promote their efforts<br />

and contributions to a greener society.<br />

Here’s a quick look at the different gardens<br />

and activities you can enjoy…<br />

MINATO GARDENS<br />

Minato Gardens refers to a cluster of parks<br />

alongside Yokohama’s waterfront, including<br />

Yamashita Park and Harbor View Park.<br />

These are popular tourist spots and were<br />

a natural choice for the centerpiece of the<br />

Garden Necklace event. A delightful area<br />

for a gentle stroll, it’s especially alluring<br />

right now because of the sea of flowers on<br />

show. Highlights include thousands of tulips<br />

(30,000 in total in all of Yokohama) and<br />

three resplendent rose gardens. There’s also<br />

a chance to see a large statue of the Green<br />

Harbor View Park<br />

Satoyama Gardens<br />

Necklace mascot, Garden Bear, who sports<br />

a mega perm of blooming flowers. Nearby<br />

is the Jacqueline Garden that was designed<br />

and supervised by renowned Dutch<br />

horticulturist Jacqueline van der Kloet. It<br />

features a wide range of bulb combinations<br />

with an emphasis on the color red.<br />

SATOYAMA GARDENS<br />

Moving further away from the center of the<br />

city into the suburbs, the Satoyama Gardens<br />

are located next to Yokohama Zoo “Zoorasia.”<br />

Here, you can enjoy 10,000 square<br />

meters of flowers – the largest display in the<br />

city. With cherry trees in the background<br />

and a colorful mix of pansies, rape blossoms<br />

and tulips, it makes for quite a sight. From<br />

late April to early <strong>May</strong> onwards, the garden<br />

will have a different look with petunias,<br />

salvias and irises in full bloom.<br />

It is then just a short walk across Forest<br />

Lane to the Yato Japanese Iris Garden where<br />

you can enjoy the splendid contrast between<br />

the purple irises and Kerria japonica<br />

surrounded by luscious green trees. A little<br />

further along the outer garden path is the<br />

Yato Rape Flower Field with rape blossoms<br />

blooming beautifully and Hana no Satoyama<br />

with its assortment of colors. While in the vicinity,<br />

there is a chance to do some glamping<br />

(short for glamorous camping) and take on<br />

the challenge of the forest adventure course.<br />

Sankei-en<br />

SANKEI-EN<br />

If you are not already flowered out by the<br />

Minato and Satoyama gardens then we<br />

highly recommend a visit to Sankei-en.<br />

Probably Yokohama’s most idyllic garden,<br />

it’s a delightful place to wander around<br />

throughout the four seasons; however, it is<br />

particularly enchanting in spring. As well as<br />

the cherry trees, you can see wisterias, water<br />

lilies and azaleas to name but a few.<br />

The area was designed and landscaped<br />

by silk trader Sankei Hara (real name<br />

Tomitaro Hara) in the early part of the 20th<br />

century. To make Sankei-en particularly<br />

special he decided to buy, dismantle and<br />

then reconstruct a number of historically<br />

significant structures from around the<br />

country to exhibit at the 175,000 squaremeter<br />

garden. Ten of them have been<br />

declared Important Cultural Properties,<br />

including the three-story pagoda relocated<br />

from Tomyoji Temple in Kyoto, and the<br />

old Yanohara House, the former private<br />

residence of the Yanohara family.<br />

You can learn more about Tomitaro<br />

Hara at the Sankei Memorial Hall, where<br />

there is also an opportunity to try some<br />

delicious matcha tea with some Japanese<br />

confectionery.<br />

For more information, go to tinyurl.com/<br />

TWgarden-necklace<strong>2017</strong><br />

32 | MAY <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER


N. S. Harsha, Sky Gazers, 2010 / <strong>2017</strong>, Acrylic on plywood, 975.4 × 488 cm, Photo: Shiigi Shizune, Photo courtesy: Mori Art Museum, <strong>Tokyo</strong><br />

HAVE A LOOK AROUND<br />

Take a gander at the work of one of India's rising art stars, be enlightened by a 16th<br />

century Zen painter, and get out and enjoy the weather at this month's festivals.<br />

TOKYO TOKYO WEEKENDER WEEKENDER | DECEMBER | | MARCH MAY <strong>2017</strong> 2016 | | 33


ART & MUSIC<br />

N.S. HARSHA: CHARMING JOURNEY<br />

Harsha is an Indian artist whose reputation is on the rise. The wide variety of his work, which ranges from massive, detail-rich<br />

canvases filled with hundreds of characters to complex installation pieces and public art, invites viewers to think about everything<br />

from the relentlessly fast pace of global economies and the high-tech industry to the deep roots of ancient beliefs that still<br />

animate life in the world’s second most populous country. Mori Art Museum Until June 11 www.mori.art.museum<br />

N. S. Harsha, Punarapi Jananam Punarapi Maranam (Again Birth, Again Death), 2013, Acrylic on canvas,<br />

tarpaulin, 365.8 × 2407.9 cm, Photo: Shiigi Shizune, Photo courtesy: Mori Art Museum, <strong>Tokyo</strong><br />

THE ART WORLD<br />

OUR PICK OF THE CITY’S BEST EXHIBITIONS<br />

Compiled by Alec Jordan<br />

Sesson Shukei, Wind and Waves (Important Cultural Property), 22.1×31.4cm, Nomura<br />

Art Museum, Kyoto<br />

SESSON: A SINGULAR<br />

PAINTER<br />

Not much is known about the Zen<br />

monk and painter Sesson Shukei:<br />

he was born in what is now Ibaraki<br />

Prefecture, and traveled between<br />

Kanto and Tohoku during his life. But<br />

from this limited biography sprang<br />

a striking oeuvre, featuring carefully<br />

rendered landscapes and human<br />

figures whose bold vibrancy may<br />

have inspired legendary Edo period<br />

artists such as Jakuchu. This exhibition<br />

includes about 100 of Sesson’s works,<br />

and some 30 pieces by artists who<br />

followed in his footsteps. (Some pieces<br />

will be replaced during the exhibition.)<br />

The University Art Museum, <strong>Tokyo</strong><br />

University of the Arts Until <strong>May</strong> 21<br />

sesson<strong>2017</strong>.jp/english.html<br />

34 | MAY <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER


M<br />

MUSIC<br />

Three singles that will get your<br />

feet tapping to the tune of warmer<br />

weather (compiled by James Wong)<br />

THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF MASAMICHI KATAYAMA<br />

“LIFE IS HARD…LET’S GO SHOPPING”<br />

The mind behind the interiors of UNIQLO flagship stores around the world,<br />

high-end fashion boutiques, and <strong>Tokyo</strong>’s INTERSECT BY LEXUS, Masamichi<br />

Katayama has made a name for himself as a design figure to follow. At his<br />

installation show at the <strong>Tokyo</strong> Opera City Art Gallery, Katayama is returning<br />

to the punk aesthetic (“putting the boot in,” as he calls it) that inspired<br />

him from his early days, mixing and matching up surreal interiors from<br />

his personal collection that combine everything from fine art to taxidermy.<br />

<strong>Tokyo</strong> Opera City Art Gallery Until June 25 www.operacity.jp/ag/exh196/<br />

index_e.php<br />

FOREST MEMORIES: YOSHIHIKO UEDA<br />

What can we learn by<br />

spending time among the<br />

trees? This collection of<br />

large format photographs<br />

– taken in the Pacific<br />

Northwestern US and on<br />

the island of Yakushima<br />

– offers a few answers:<br />

an appreciation of the<br />

flow that occurs among<br />

disparate objects in the environment,<br />

the influences<br />

that geological forces play<br />

on developing forests, and<br />

a very deep sense of time.<br />

A great opportunity to see<br />

the work of this thoughtful<br />

photographer, whose work<br />

often appears on the walls<br />

of this venue. Gallery 916<br />

Until July 2 gallery916.com<br />

CALVIN<br />

HARRIS FEAT.<br />

YOUNG THUG,<br />

PHARRELL<br />

WILLIAMS<br />

AND ARIANA<br />

GRANDE –<br />

“HEATSTROKE”<br />

Summer isn’t really summer without a Calvin<br />

Harris anthem, and this year “Heatstroke”<br />

is certain to blaze through pool parties and<br />

festivals across the globe. Harris teams up with<br />

the man who is always in the moment, Pharrell<br />

Williams, and rounds off with Young Thug and<br />

Ariana Grande. This is <strong>2017</strong>’s answer to Justin<br />

Timberlake’s “Can’t Stop The Feeling!”<br />

bit.ly/TWHeatstroke<br />

DUA LIPA – “HOT-<br />

TER THAN HELL<br />

(MIIKE SNOW<br />

REMIX)”<br />

The lady on<br />

everyone’s lips, Dua<br />

Lipa has been hailed<br />

as the next big thing<br />

for months now and<br />

finally drops her debut album in Japan this June.<br />

“Hotter Than Hell” provides a strong indicator of<br />

what to expect and this remix by Swedish indiepop<br />

group Miike Snow propels the 21-year old Brit<br />

beyond the spectrum of cool. bit.ly/TWDuaLipa<br />

JAMIROQUAI –<br />

“SOMETHING<br />

ABOUT YOU”<br />

It’s easy for 90s<br />

superstars to rely<br />

on “Greatest Hits”<br />

comebacks, but that’s<br />

not for Jamiroquai.<br />

The 47-year-old Jay<br />

Kay and co are celebrating their relevance among<br />

today’s generation with an album of new material<br />

that’s been hitting number one in over 30<br />

countries. “Something About You” is a disco-funk,<br />

acid-jazz number that bridges the gap until Daft<br />

Punk’s next record. bit.ly/TWJamiroquai<br />

©Yoshihiko Ueda, Quinault No.1, 1990-1991<br />

TOKYO WEEKENDER | MAY <strong>2017</strong> | 35


1<br />

3<br />

2<br />

4<br />

7<br />

8<br />

5 6<br />

AGENDA: THE WEEKENDER ROUNDUP OF WHAT’S HAPPENING IN MAY<br />

1<br />

MAY 1-28<br />

2<br />

MAY 11-17<br />

3<br />

MAY 20-21<br />

4<br />

MAY 1-30<br />

SHOWA KINEN PARK<br />

FLOWER FESTIVAL<br />

Now that sakura season is over,<br />

explore a selection of wild flowers,<br />

including poppies, baby’s breath,<br />

cornflowers and more.<br />

Where: Showa Kinen Park<br />

How much: ¥410<br />

More info: tinyurl.com/<br />

TWshowakinen<br />

KANDA MATSURI<br />

One of the three great festivals<br />

of Edo, this traditional event goes<br />

on for six days and features about a<br />

hundred mikoshi parading through<br />

the streets.<br />

Where: Kanda Myojin Shrine<br />

How much: Free<br />

More info: www.kandamyoujin.or.jp/<br />

kandamatsuri<br />

ITALIA, AMORE MIO<br />

This one's for lovers of all things<br />

Italian. Expect plenty of guests,<br />

a stylish showcase of top Italian<br />

brands, performances, concerts,<br />

talk sessions – and some tasty<br />

cuisine.<br />

Where: Roppongi Hills<br />

How much: Free<br />

More info: italia-amore-mio.com<br />

ATTACK ON SKYTREE<br />

Terrifying anime Titans appear in,<br />

on, and around <strong>Tokyo</strong> Skytree in<br />

this special collaboration event<br />

where visitors can enjoy original<br />

animations and Titan-themed food.<br />

Where: <strong>Tokyo</strong> Skytree<br />

How much: Free<br />

More info: www.tokyo-skytree.jp/<br />

event/special/shingeki<strong>2017</strong><br />

MAY 20-21<br />

GREENROOM FESTIVAL<br />

Music, art and film festival by<br />

the water inspired by beach and<br />

surf culture. Artists include Ray<br />

Barbee, The New Mastersounds<br />

and Jake Bugg.<br />

Where: Yokohama Red Brick<br />

Warehouse<br />

How much: ¥11,900-¥19,000<br />

More info: greenroom.jp<br />

6 MAY 26<br />

DR. SKETCHY'S ANTI-ART<br />

SCHOOL, TOKYO<br />

An international alternative art event<br />

where burlesque models pose for art<br />

stars and sketching newbies alike with<br />

drinks and arty socializing.<br />

Where: Studio & Space Ivva<br />

How much: ¥2,000, including 1 drink<br />

More info: www.<br />

studioandspaceivva.com/en/<br />

5 7<br />

MAY 6, 27 & 31<br />

BABY FREELY ART EVENT<br />

A chance for children aged around<br />

two and their parents to create<br />

\art together. This event’s theme<br />

is The Earth.<br />

Where: Chiiku Lab<br />

How much: Parent & child pair ¥3,500;<br />

additional family member ¥1,000<br />

More info: coubic.com/<br />

chiikulab/330835<br />

8 MAY 1-16<br />

EUROPEAN MODE<br />

An exploration of black dresses<br />

throughout history, from Rococo<br />

gowns to Dior’s most famous<br />

silhouette and to the modern version<br />

of the little black dress.<br />

Where: Bunka Gakuen Costume<br />

Museum<br />

How much: ¥500<br />

More info: museum.bunka.ac.jp<br />

36 | MAY <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER


Aoyama Cemetary<br />

「Glass」<strong>2017</strong> oil on canvas 60.6cm × 50.0cm<br />

Hokkaien<br />

Gaien West St.<br />

Nogisaka Station<br />

The National<br />

Art Center, <strong>Tokyo</strong><br />

National Graduate<br />

Institute for Policy Studies<br />

Gaien East St.<br />

Shitsu Murayama / Kids know<br />

Saturday 13th <strong>May</strong>- Sunday 4th June, <strong>2017</strong><br />

Opening Hours: 12:00 - 19:00 | Closed: Mondays and Tuesdays<br />

Opening Reception: Friday <strong>May</strong> 12th from 18:00 onwards<br />

To Shibuya Otora<br />

Hiroo Station<br />

Gonpachi Roppongi Dori<br />

Nishi-Azabu Intersection<br />

Roppongi Hills<br />

Mori Art Museum<br />

Roppongi Station<br />

NANATASU GALLERY<br />

〒 106-0031 <strong>Tokyo</strong>, Minato-ku, Nishi-Azabu 2-12-4 Ogura building 3F<br />

Te l : 03-6419-7229 | Web: www.na n a t a s u . j p<br />

Where to find<br />

TOKYO WEEKENDER MAGAZINE<br />

WANT TO MAKE SURE YOU PICK UP A COPY EVERY MONTH?<br />

HERE’S WHERE TO GET YOUR HANDS ON THE MAG<br />

DOWNLOAD<br />

VENUES AROUND TOKYO<br />

SUBSCRIBE<br />

MORE INFORMATION AT WWW.TOKYOWEEKENDER.COM<br />

TOKYO WEEKENDER | MAY <strong>2017</strong> | 37


[ PROMOTION ]<br />

MASTER THE FORMALITIES<br />

You may have your basic self-introduction in Japanese down, but are you ready to take things<br />

to another level? Here are a few tips to giving the kind of formal introductory speech that<br />

you’ll use with your coworkers in more “buttoned-up” situations. We’ll give you the phrases<br />

first in Japanese, then in romaji, and finally in English, followed by a bit of an explanation.<br />

1<br />

はじめまして、Aと 申 します。<br />

一 生 懸 命 がんばりますので、<br />

4<br />

Hajimemashite, A to moushi masu.<br />

Isshoukenmei ganbarimasu node<br />

Nice to meet you, my name is A.<br />

So, I will do my best.<br />

The heart of the word “hajimemashite”<br />

means “begin,” and it’s<br />

the start of almost every introduction<br />

you’ll ever read.<br />

Isshoukenmei literally means “I<br />

will do this thing with all my heart<br />

and all my life.” It sounds a little<br />

over the top but its basic meaning<br />

is “I'll do my best.”<br />

2<br />

今 日 からABCセクションに<br />

配 属 されました。<br />

Kyou kara ABC Section ni haizoku<br />

saremashita.<br />

Starting from today, I have been<br />

assigned to the ABC Section.<br />

Haizoku means assignment. With the<br />

verb saremashita, the phrase becomes<br />

passive and takes on the meaning<br />

“was assigned to.”<br />

どうぞよろしくお 願 いします。<br />

Douzo yoroshiku onegai shimasu.<br />

Word for word, this phrase means<br />

“please be kind to me,” but think of<br />

it more like “I’m looking forward to<br />

working with you.” To dial up the<br />

politeness level, replace douzo with<br />

nanitozo.<br />

5<br />

3<br />

わからないことばかりですが、<br />

Wakaranai koto bakari desu ga…<br />

Although there are lots of things I<br />

don't know yet…<br />

Wakaranai = don't know, koto = things<br />

bakari = everything or all of the<br />

things, desu = is, ga = though, but<br />

BUT YOU SAID YOU WERE GOING TO STUDY JAPANESE...<br />

Would you like to finally be able to speak Japanese?<br />

Are cross cultural misunderstandings holding you<br />

back in business and your personal life in Japan? If<br />

so, find out how Japan Management & Communication<br />

(JM&C) can help you achieve your personal,<br />

business and language goals through our personalized<br />

training programs. For more information on our<br />

courses please visit jmctokyo.com/japanese/<br />

Contact Tel: 03 5423 0531 | Email: jmc@jconcept.co.jp<br />

Address: Hasebe No.2 Bldg, 2F, 5-21-2 Hiroo, Shibuya Ku<br />

38 | MAY <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER


INSPIRING MINDS<br />

Our spring Education Special brings you news from some of <strong>Tokyo</strong>'s top international<br />

schools, including a brand-new middle school that's set to open this September.<br />

TOKYO TOKYO WEEKENDER WEEKENDER | DECEMBER | | MARCH MAY <strong>2017</strong> 2016 | | 39


40 | MAY <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER


[ PROMOTION ]<br />

A Perfect Balance<br />

As Camelot International School prepares to open a middle school this September, they<br />

continue to offer affordable quality education that’s more than just about high test scores<br />

Eleven years ago, when Kayoko Sugawara<br />

founded Camelot as an international preschool,<br />

she would never have imagined<br />

that she would go on to open both an<br />

elementary and a middle school. But her<br />

unique teaching philosophies, combined with<br />

affordable fees, have made Camelot so popular<br />

that Sugawara has boldly continued to expand.<br />

We sat down with Camelot Director Sugawara,<br />

new Head of School Russell Bowley, and the<br />

new Head of Middle School Graeme Peel, to<br />

hear more about the school’s plans.<br />

WHY DO YOU FEEL THERE’S A<br />

NEED FOR A NEW INTERNATIONAL<br />

MIDDLE SCHOOL IN TOKYO?<br />

Sugawara: Three years ago, I opened Camelot’s<br />

elementary school. Even though it was a risk<br />

and a challenge, we now have around 40<br />

students and have recently moved to a bigger<br />

location in Kotake-Mukaihara to accommodate<br />

even more. Parents have always told me that<br />

they would keep their children at Camelot if<br />

they could, so I felt the next logical step was to<br />

open a middle school. Our fees<br />

are in line with the international<br />

courses offered by Japanese<br />

schools [¥800,000 per year for<br />

pre-school; ¥1,150,000 per year<br />

for elementary school], so it’s<br />

a good option for returnees<br />

or foreign students who can’t<br />

afford more expensive international<br />

schools. Good quality<br />

international education should<br />

be more broadly available,<br />

which means it has to be more<br />

affordable.<br />

Peel: Although there are some<br />

Japanese schools offering international<br />

courses, I have found<br />

there is a conflict between<br />

what these schools are trying to strike as<br />

a traditional, private Japanese school and<br />

what you need to be learning to get into<br />

universities in, say, the US or England. At<br />

Camelot, we offer a high standard of education,<br />

but with international values and a<br />

reduced cost to the parents.<br />

Bowley: Absolutely. Our philosophy places<br />

emphasis on individuals and their needs.<br />

The more that students learn about themselves<br />

and the world they inhabit, the more<br />

they are able to make wise decisions about<br />

their own educational choices.<br />

COULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR<br />

TEACHING STYLE?<br />

Sugawara: We have always had a very fluid<br />

system that allows each student to adapt<br />

their daily class schedule to suit their level.<br />

For example, if a student is in grade 3 but<br />

their math or English is at a lower level,<br />

then for those subjects they can join a class<br />

in a lower grade. They can also jump up<br />

to a more advanced class where<br />

necessary. Also, I believe that a<br />

good education isn’t just about<br />

getting good scores on tests; it’s<br />

also about developing as a human<br />

being and learning how to build<br />

relationships.<br />

Peel: What I’ve found is that<br />

the aspects of adolescence that<br />

people find negative are often a<br />

reaction to traditional teaching<br />

and education. When you create<br />

an environment in which students<br />

have a drive, and they’re<br />

independently wanting to learn,<br />

they’re far more self-motivated.<br />

Bowley: It’s important that students feel<br />

they have ownership of the learning process.<br />

Everything they learn has to be relevant to<br />

them and their own paths. We want to create an<br />

environment that encourages enquiring minds.<br />

HOW DO YOU BALANCE<br />

TRADITIONAL EDUCATION<br />

WITH THIS WAY OF THINKING?<br />

Peel: My approach has always been to do<br />

things in class around what the students are<br />

interested in, and following that they are<br />

motivated to go home and study for tests<br />

independently. I think that you can achieve<br />

the goals that traditional education sets out<br />

without ever doing it in a traditional way.<br />

Bowley: I agree. Student interest is the most<br />

important thing. The idea of study as a joy<br />

and a fascination supports and transcends<br />

the goals of traditional education.<br />

HOW DO YOU STRUCTURE THE<br />

CURRICULUM?<br />

Sugawara: At our elementary school, our focus<br />

is IPC (International Primary Curriculum),<br />

but we use the American Core Standard for<br />

language art, and the Singapore and American<br />

Core Standard for Math.<br />

Peel: For the middle school, we’re still developing<br />

the curriculum but I think it’s important<br />

to have some accreditation such as the Cambridge<br />

or AP qualifications, and an external<br />

examination board. We want to reassure<br />

parents of the standards we’re reaching for.<br />

Applications for Camelot International Middle<br />

School are now open. For more information<br />

visit camelot.tokyo.jp, call 03-5948-3993 or<br />

email info@camelot.tokyo.jp


Play<br />

SMART<br />

This is how brain<br />

power gets its start.<br />

Motoazabu, Jiyugaoka & LalaPort Yokohama<br />

Try a FREE class today!<br />

www.gymboree.jp<br />

42 | MAY <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER


[ PROMOTION ]<br />

5 REASONS TO CHOOSE<br />

THE BRITISH SCHOOL IN TOKYO<br />

How BST continues to lead in creating a well-rounded learning environment<br />

Asked why they chose The British<br />

School in <strong>Tokyo</strong> (BST) for their sons<br />

and daughters, many of our parents<br />

say that the children here are cheerful,<br />

grounded, at ease with themselves<br />

and each other – and excited by the<br />

challenges set before them. They might add<br />

that the school succeeds in balancing high<br />

academic expectation with a wealth of extra-curricular<br />

opportunity, all founded on the<br />

highest standards of pastoral care and a deep<br />

commitment to the needs and enthusiasms of<br />

the individual. We take a deeper look at some<br />

of the top reasons why BST is becoming the<br />

first choice for many families.<br />

1. NO STEREOTYPES<br />

From their early years in our Nursery and<br />

Reception classes, all children are valued<br />

for who they are and given the freedom to<br />

develop the independence and resilience that<br />

will enable them to take the next step in their<br />

education wherever it might take them, with<br />

confidence and a smile. In essence, BST is a<br />

school and a community where there will<br />

never be stereotypes.<br />

2. HIGH<br />

STANDARDS<br />

The British School in<br />

<strong>Tokyo</strong> is an accredited<br />

member of the Council<br />

of British International<br />

Schools and one of<br />

only a small number of<br />

schools worldwide to<br />

have been independently<br />

inspected according<br />

to the UK standards<br />

for British Schools<br />

Overseas, and judged<br />

to be excellent in every<br />

category. Situated on<br />

two central sites at the<br />

heart of this vibrant<br />

city, this year for the<br />

first time in its history, the<br />

school is home to over 1,000 students.<br />

There are many reasons to explain the<br />

remarkable surge in student enrolment at<br />

BST in recent years but foremost among<br />

them is the widespread recognition that<br />

this is a school where young people of all<br />

abilities from the most diverse backgrounds<br />

can find their niche and fulfil their potential.<br />

Since 2012 we have seen the number of 15<br />

to 18-year-old students on our IGCSE and A<br />

Level courses more than double to almost<br />

250; examination results have progressed to<br />

the point where they match the gold standard<br />

set by the United Kingdom independent<br />

sector and our graduates are winning places<br />

at some of the most prestigious universities<br />

around the world.<br />

3. TOP TEACHERS<br />

The very best schools, of course, are<br />

built on the talent, enthusiasm and<br />

experience of outstanding teachers.<br />

At BST we recruit staff with great<br />

care, almost exclusively from the<br />

UK and from select British-style<br />

international schools around the<br />

world. Every one of our teachers<br />

is a life-long learner, keen to maintain<br />

the highest level of subject<br />

knowledge and to keep abreast of<br />

the latest developments in pedagogical<br />

best practice. Our parents<br />

know that they can count on the<br />

commitment and dedication of a<br />

FOR THE FIRST TIME<br />

IN ITS HISTORY, THE<br />

SCHOOL IS HOME TO<br />

OVER 1,000 STUDENTS<br />

highly qualified team who set themselves and<br />

their students the very highest standards.<br />

4. NEW COURSES<br />

At the start of the <strong>2017</strong>/18 academic year in<br />

September, we will be introducing significant<br />

new areas of study for our older students.<br />

These include university entry-level courses<br />

in Computer Science, Economics and –<br />

further strengthening our highly successful<br />

arts programme – Drama & Theatre Studies.<br />

5. BROAD PERSPECTIVES<br />

BST is, of course, much more than an A Level<br />

school. All examinations are important, and<br />

many parents are impressed by the rigour<br />

and structured progression of our particular<br />

brand of British education from the age of<br />

three through to 18. That said, our young people<br />

here know that education is not simply<br />

about passing exams. Sport, music and drama<br />

are woven into the fabric of school life, and<br />

we see both community service and adventurous<br />

activity as significant strengths.<br />

For more information, visit www.bst.ac.jp<br />

TOKYO WEEKENDER | MAY <strong>2017</strong> | 43


Expanding<br />

World Views<br />

How Aoba-Japan’s successful Extension Program is growing,<br />

[ PROMOTION ]<br />

and what to look forward to at this year’s Summer Camp<br />

Since 2013, Aoba-Japan’s<br />

innovative Extension<br />

Program has been adding<br />

to its lineup, and over the<br />

last year they’ve held spring, summer,<br />

autumn and winter camps,<br />

as well as two sports camps. As<br />

demand for their unique approach<br />

to community education programs<br />

grows, AJE is establishing a unique<br />

identity for itself, says director<br />

Greg Culos. “Aoba now has five different<br />

schools around <strong>Tokyo</strong>. This expansion has<br />

opened up opportunities for AJE to offer a wider<br />

variety of extension programs. For example,<br />

we have just added a Saturday program at our<br />

IT’S ABOUT<br />

INSPIRING<br />

THE KIDS<br />

Waseda location based on the same<br />

principles of applied learning that<br />

define our camp programs,” he says.<br />

“Aoba’s core primary and secondary<br />

programs run Monday to Friday,<br />

but there’s a demand for weekend,<br />

evening, and seasonal learning opportunities.<br />

So we’re creating a series of<br />

programs that can be delivered anywhere,<br />

in order to meet the needs of<br />

anyone seeking rewarding learning<br />

opportunities beyond the classroom<br />

– as the word ‘extension’ suggests,<br />

AJE is open to everyone, including<br />

students coming from abroad.”<br />

So how is the Extension<br />

Program set apart from the core education<br />

programs? AJE is described<br />

as offering “fun and inspiring<br />

experiential programs in an applied<br />

international learning context<br />

to enrich their formal education<br />

responsibilities.” Expressing this<br />

less formally, Culos says, “It’s about<br />

inspiring the kids by giving them<br />

opportunities beyond the ordinary<br />

to experiment a little, explore a little,<br />

adventure a little – essentially, giving<br />

them exposure to different things.”<br />

The group does this through seasonal camps,<br />

continuing programs, and annual events, all of<br />

which are fun, challenging, and rewarding. The<br />

programs focus on themes of communication,<br />

sports, culture, friendship and new experiences.<br />

The summer camp now attracts around 250<br />

children. 10% of them come from abroad or<br />

from other parts of Japan. “There is a market for<br />

people wanting to come here to be immersed<br />

in things Japanese, but grow and even graduate<br />

within the kind of international context we<br />

offer,” says Culos. “It’s a fairly new notion, but<br />

I think this could catch on. In the meantime,<br />

our camps offer<br />

international students the<br />

chance to come to Japan<br />

for days or weeks, experience<br />

the culture, learn<br />

a bit of the language, and<br />

expand their world views.”<br />

SIGN UP FOR AJE’S<br />

SUMMER CAMP <strong>2017</strong><br />

Held over five weeks from July 17 to<br />

August 18, the summer camp’s theme is<br />

“Communication Unites the World.” Children<br />

can join for individual weeks, or stay<br />

for the full five weeks – those coming from<br />

abroad can be accommodated through<br />

Homestay Japan, which places foreign<br />

students with Japanese families.<br />

“The idea is to give kids as many<br />

different types of experiential opportunities<br />

to communicate with each other as<br />

possible,” says Culos. And as the camp’s<br />

jam-packed lineup shows, there’s never a<br />

dull moment. The weeks are themed on<br />

different continents, and each day begins<br />

with morning classes drawn from a curriculum<br />

based around a continent’s people,<br />

food, geography, language and so on.<br />

These topics are explored and expressed<br />

in many ways, including arts and crafts,<br />

drama performances, role playing, and<br />

guest visitors. “The learning is focused<br />

more on the reasons for and context of<br />

discussion, and problems we might be<br />

trying to solve. It’s not so much about<br />

grammar, reading and writing – it’s more<br />

about language in context,” says Culos.<br />

The afternoons are full of age-appropriate<br />

activities, including making model<br />

rockets, learning pottery skills, climbing<br />

mountains, river rafting, tree swinging,<br />

water sports, and more. “There’s also a<br />

Family Day once a week, and in the final<br />

week we have a big Olympiad where<br />

everyone is welcome to come back and<br />

join in – even if they only took part in<br />

one or two weeks of the camp.”<br />

For more information and to sign<br />

up for AJE’s Summer Camp <strong>2017</strong>,<br />

visit www.campsinjapan.com


Bewitched by<br />

the Travel Gods<br />

…And those very early summer mornings!<br />

Words by Brian Christian<br />

The months and days are the<br />

travellers of eternity.<br />

The years that come and go<br />

are also voyagers.<br />

Those who float away their<br />

lives on ships or who grow<br />

old leading horses are forever<br />

journeying,<br />

and their homes are wherever<br />

their travels take them.<br />

Anyone with even the faintest<br />

interest in Japanese literature<br />

will have recognised the famous<br />

opening to Basho’s Narrow Road<br />

to the Deep North, three short sentences that<br />

may have brought to the surface all manner<br />

of memories for those among you who remember<br />

having to learn them off by heart in<br />

senior high school. Now considered the most<br />

renowned literary figure of the Edo period,<br />

the hallowed haiku-master was a compulsive<br />

traveller who, despite being denied the<br />

opportunity to see the world beyond the<br />

confines of his own country, found much to<br />

satisfy his wander-lust along the mountain<br />

trails of his native islands.<br />

When spring came and there was mist in<br />

the air…<br />

Everything about me was bewitched by<br />

the travel gods... The spirits of the roads<br />

beckoned.<br />

The pilgrimage that inspired his greatest<br />

work begins, so he tells us, in 1689 on the<br />

27th day of the third month when he sets out<br />

from <strong>Tokyo</strong> while the cherry blossoms are<br />

in full bloom. Given that the world shivered<br />

through a mini ice-age throughout the seventeenth<br />

century, the flowering sakura give us<br />

a clue that the date is not all it seems. Almost<br />

200 years would pass before Japan would<br />

finally adopt the modern western calendar<br />

and, under the old lunar system, late March<br />

might well be the equivalent to a spring day<br />

closer to the end of April.<br />

Today there are few among us who grow<br />

old leading horses but I suspect that I won’t<br />

be alone in succumbing to the siren voices<br />

of the travel gods as the early-rising summer<br />

sun warms the morning air and the days<br />

begin to lengthen. To be fair, it’s hard not to<br />

feel restless when sunlight starts streaming<br />

relentlessly through your bedroom windows<br />

just a few short hours after you’ve taken to<br />

your bed. No wonder Basho felt compelled<br />

to head north! It’s true that in Japan we<br />

enjoy long summer days; the only problem<br />

is that the sun rises soon after four and sets<br />

at seven. What is it with this country and<br />

daylight-saving?<br />

For those of us fortunate enough to have<br />

lived in and travelled to some of the most<br />

visited cities in Europe – London, Paris,<br />

Rome – many of our fondest memories have<br />

been conceived in the sunlit shade of early<br />

summer evenings. There are few great cities<br />

of the world blessed with the endless blue<br />

skies of <strong>Tokyo</strong>’s winter so for most the long,<br />

IT’S HARD NOT TO<br />

FEEL RESTLESS WHEN<br />

SUNLIGHT STARTS<br />

STREAMING THROUGH<br />

YOUR BEDROOM<br />

WINDOWS<br />

light evenings of <strong>May</strong> bring a welcome<br />

release from the dank, dark grip of earlier<br />

months. The result? The vibrant café culture<br />

of Copenhagen and the buzzing bars and<br />

restaurants of Barcelona.<br />

2016 was a record year for the Japanese<br />

tourist industry with almost 24 million visitors<br />

spending a cool 33 billion dollars. Good<br />

news? Perhaps – but the rate of growth in<br />

both the number of tourists and the amount<br />

they spent here was significantly down on<br />

the previous 12 months, suggesting that the<br />

government’s target of 40 million visitors<br />

spending around 70 billion dollars by 2020<br />

may be well out of reach. Might the allure of<br />

lighter summer evenings make a difference?<br />

When Basho walked the narrow road to the<br />

deep north, each of his days on foot ended<br />

with the twilight of early summer sunsets;<br />

will the next few years change all that? Moving<br />

the clocks forward by an hour – or even<br />

two – could provide just the boost Japan<br />

needs as it prepares to host the Rugby World<br />

Cup and the Games of the XXXII Olympiad.<br />

Why not make the most of this precious time<br />

in the global spotlight and bring the evening<br />

streets to life?<br />

Brian Christian is Principal of The British<br />

School in <strong>Tokyo</strong>.<br />

TOKYO WEEKENDER | MAY <strong>2017</strong> | 45


People,<br />

Parties, Places<br />

TOKYO’S LONGEST RUNNING SOCIETY PAGE WITH BILL HERSEY<br />

It's hard to believe that Easter has come and gone, and<br />

Golden Week’s pretty much had it by the time you read this.<br />

I like to quote my dear grandmother, who often said, “The<br />

older you get, the faster it goes.” She was right on about that.<br />

Anyway, hope you and yours are enjoying life here in Japan, were<br />

able to enjoy the beautiful sakura, and had a good late April/early <strong>May</strong><br />

vacation.<br />

With so many diplomats changing, music and sports events, visitors,<br />

art exhibits, and cultural activities, it seemed like March, April and<br />

<strong>May</strong> were unusually busy for this time of the year. That’s the way I like<br />

it and I’m sure most of you are the same.<br />

Great people and<br />

good friends who have<br />

left recently include<br />

Italian Ambassador<br />

Domenico Giorgi and<br />

his wife Rita, Bosnia<br />

and Herzegovina Ambassador<br />

Anesa Kurdurovic,<br />

Peruvian Ambassador<br />

Elard Escala,<br />

and his wife Cristina,<br />

and Pakistan Ambassador<br />

Farukh Amil. I<br />

mixed up the date of<br />

the Italian sayonara<br />

party, so I missed that<br />

one. I'm sorry about<br />

that, but am happy<br />

that I got to see Ambassador<br />

Domenico at<br />

the Peruvian sayonara<br />

event and speak to his<br />

wife Rita on the phone<br />

several times before<br />

they returned to Rome.<br />

They were really good<br />

friends who’ll be<br />

missed by all who know them. My thanks to them for the primo class<br />

book on their embassy and garden – one of Japan’s most beautiful.<br />

One of the highlights for me during this time was the visit of former<br />

<strong>Tokyo</strong>ites Ron and Maria Anderson, who flew in from the Big Apple<br />

for ILBS’s Annual Ball, to do some cherry blossom viewing, and enjoy<br />

a full schedule of breakfasts, lunches and dinners their many friends<br />

hosted in their honor while they were here. Ron was a top man for AIU<br />

Insurance for many years in <strong>Tokyo</strong> and keeps busy in New York City<br />

with them as well. Maria also had a fast-paced life here and stays occupied<br />

in New York with many worthwhile projects. During their 10 years<br />

here, she was President of the International Ladies Benevolent Society<br />

for a year, and she helped me with charity projects in the Philippines.<br />

Believe me, this is a very special couple in every way – and they’re<br />

really cool, as you can see by the photo that I took of them on their way<br />

to the Ball.<br />

I’m a big fan of Broadway shows and Maria gave me a run-down<br />

on what’s happening in New York City. Hamilton is still on top if you<br />

want to see it – and can afford it. The Book of Mormon is still packing<br />

them in, and tickets are still expensive. I’ve seen many of the longer<br />

running shows and revivals including Chicago, Phantom of the Opera,<br />

Cats, Kinky Boots and Miss Saigon. I would love to see Wicked, Sunset<br />

Blue, School of Rock, and On Your Feet! – the last one being about my<br />

good friend Gloria Estefan. I did a lot of parties for her and her band<br />

Miami Sound Machine, both here and in Seoul.<br />

Meanwhile, there’s some good stuff coming to <strong>Tokyo</strong>. One of my favorites,<br />

West Side Story, will be back with an international cast in July.<br />

It’s got to be one of<br />

the best shows ever<br />

– from the choreography,<br />

to the story,<br />

and the Bernstein<br />

tunes. What must be<br />

one of the greatest<br />

Japanese drumming<br />

shows, Drum Tao,<br />

just finished 15 performances<br />

at Zepp<br />

Blue Theater in Roppongi.<br />

The talented<br />

cast, the staging,<br />

and the costumes<br />

by Junko Koshino<br />

make their show a<br />

real must-see while<br />

you’re in Japan.<br />

Check it out online.<br />

If your<br />

TOKYO THROWBACK<br />

Pro wrestlers Hulk Hogan (left)<br />

and Bobby Duncum Sr. (right),<br />

Françoise Morechand, and Bill,<br />

in the early 80s<br />

kids are talented,<br />

you should give<br />

them the chance to<br />

do their thing. The<br />

<strong>Tokyo</strong> Theatre for<br />

Children can help<br />

you with this. The theater group, which started in 1974, produces<br />

musical theater in English. Shows they’ve put on include the Wizard<br />

of Oz, Treasure Island and most recently, Annie. They have all been<br />

fun and successful, from what I hear. I know there are a lot of stage<br />

mothers (and fathers) out there, so give them a ring at 03-3446-3478<br />

or check out their website: tokyotheatreforchildren.com. Who knows, a<br />

star may be born.<br />

ST. PATRICK’S DAY HAPPENINGS EVERYWHERE<br />

A big, sincere, and well-deserved kudos to Irish Ambassador Anne Barrington.<br />

She, along with the Irish community in Japan, and the many<br />

Japanese people who love Ireland went all out this year, making it<br />

St. Patrick’s Day a nationwide celebration. This year marks the 60th<br />

anniversary of Japan-Ireland diplomatic relations. Anne, who’s an excellent<br />

speaker, made a very warm and meaningful welcome speech.<br />

46 | MAY <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER


SWAP MEET<br />

AT MIDTOWN<br />

OAKWOOD & TOKO<br />

SHINODA’S 104 TH<br />

1. Sarah Furuya (organizer),<br />

Jennifer Shinkai, Midtown’s<br />

Amy Hanashiro 2. Sarah, Mary<br />

Fidler and Corin Kanazawa<br />

3. Toko Shinoda being<br />

interviewed by the press on her<br />

104th birthday. 1 2<br />

5<br />

3<br />

4<br />

7<br />

6<br />

8<br />

9<br />

10<br />

11<br />

12<br />

ST. PATRICK'S DAY<br />

AT THE OKURA<br />

AND YOYOGI PARK<br />

4. Indian Amb. Sujan Chinoy<br />

with Miss Japan Priyanka<br />

Yoshikawa and Miss Ireland<br />

Niamh Kennedy 5. Ikuku<br />

Collins and Father Donal Doyle<br />

6. Miss Japan, politician<br />

Kazuyuki Hamada, Miss<br />

Ireland, and actor/model<br />

Hideyuki Kusakari<br />

7. Min-On’s new president<br />

Kazuto Ito, Palestine’s Waleed<br />

Siam and Min-On PR man<br />

Tomiyaki Matsuo 8. Irish<br />

Amb. Barrington (left), Niamh<br />

Kennedy (far right), and fans<br />

of Ireland lead the parade<br />

on Omotesando 9. Ghanaian<br />

Head of Chancery Muhammad<br />

Adam, Kenyan Amb. and Mrs.<br />

S.K. Maina 10. Ed Miliano,<br />

his wife Annie, Irish Minister<br />

Paschal Donohoe, outgoing<br />

Pakistan Amb. Farukh Amil<br />

11. Japanese Rugby Team at<br />

Yoyogi Park 12. Irish song and<br />

dance at Yoyogi Park<br />

TOKYO WEEKENDER | MAY <strong>2017</strong> | 47


BRUNEI NATIONAL<br />

DAY – NEW OTANI<br />

1. Brunei’s driver Dante Ticzon<br />

and receptionist Elvira Menor<br />

2. Nicaraguan Amb. Saul Aran, US’<br />

First Sec. Visa Chief and Deputy<br />

Consul General Clay K. Adler<br />

3. Ernesto Torres (Dominican<br />

Republic), Indonesian Third Sec.<br />

Gina Anggraini, Brunei Charge de<br />

Affaires’ Jessica Tiah, Clay K. Adler<br />

4. Outgoing Pakistan Amb. Farukh<br />

Amil, Singapore Amb. and Mrs.<br />

Chin Siat Yoon 5. Grand Hyatt GM<br />

Steve Dewire and Park Hyatt GM<br />

Herve Mazella<br />

1<br />

2<br />

4<br />

3<br />

5<br />

6<br />

7<br />

10<br />

8<br />

9<br />

AMBASSADOR<br />

AND MRS. ELARD<br />

ESCALA BID ADIOS<br />

6. Colombian businessman<br />

Eduardo Cardenas, Dewi<br />

Sukarno, and Mexican<br />

counsellor Armando Arriaga<br />

Ochoategui<br />

7. Imperial Household’s<br />

Nobutake Odano, the host Peru<br />

Amb. Escala<br />

8. Russian Amb. Evgeny<br />

Afanasiev, his wife Olga,<br />

outgoing Peruvian Amb. Elard<br />

Escala and his wife Cristina<br />

9. UN University’s David<br />

Malone, outgoing Pakistani<br />

Amb. Farukh Amil<br />

10. Cristina and good friends<br />

Kuwait Amb. and Mrs. Abdul-<br />

Rahman Al-Otaibi<br />

48 | MAY <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER


I was a bit late, but I made it in time to enjoy the Irish, Japanese and<br />

EU anthems, which were played on Irish flutes, fiddles and bagpipes.<br />

In the Okura Hotel’s popular Ascot Room, Anne and her artist<br />

husband Ed Miliano introduced me to Irish Minister Paschal Donohoe,<br />

who was here for the celebration. I was also happy to meet two other<br />

special guests – Miss Japan, Priyanka Yoshikawa (who’s half Indian)<br />

and her new best friend, Miss Ireland, Niamh Kennedy. Fame hasn’t<br />

spoiled either of these beauties. They’re both super nice, and I was<br />

happy to hear Niamh may be back to Japan for a big rugby game later<br />

this year.<br />

Just about everyone I know loves Irish food. I do too, and the Okura,<br />

with the help of Ireland embassy staff, prepared an awesome buffet<br />

that featured Irish specialties like shepherd’s pie, farmhouse cheeses<br />

from Ireland, a delicious vegetable and cheese soup, wonderful Irish<br />

chocolates, and plenty of Japanese favorites, too. It was an enjoyable,<br />

laid-back evening, and perfect for the occasion.<br />

Yoyogi Park also pulled out all the stops for our Irish friends. There<br />

were many restaurants and pubs serving Irish food and drink, plenty<br />

of people there wearing green, and even a small “rugby field” where<br />

college players got spectators to try the rough and tumble sport that’s<br />

fast gaining popularity in Japan. I was also surprised by the number of<br />

people playing Irish music and participating in lively Irish dancing.<br />

THE ESCALAS SAY SAYONARA<br />

There was a long line waiting outside the Peruvian embassy to say sayonara<br />

to the popular Peruvian Ambassador Elard Escala and his lovely<br />

wife Cristina. I didn’t mind waiting, as it gave me time to talk with the<br />

Kuwaiti Ambassador and Mrs. Al-Otaibi, and to get to know the Russian<br />

Ambassador and his wife better. The Peruvian embassy is not small,<br />

but it was packed with people all wanting their photo taken with the<br />

Ambassador couple. It was proof positive of the popularity of the Escalas<br />

who, after five years in <strong>Tokyo</strong>, have returned to Lima for a new<br />

assignment by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Elard and Cristina did<br />

a lot of special things to promote Peru during their posting here. They<br />

arrived about a year before the beautiful new embassy opened, and<br />

used it for seminars, exhibitions, and special events to promote their<br />

country. The Peruvian food festivals were especially impressive and of<br />

course, very popular.<br />

A couple of years ago when a couple of top Peruvian restaurant<br />

owners were in <strong>Tokyo</strong>, I invited them to a club in Roppongi. Paris Hilton<br />

was there that night and she agreed to have her photo taken with them.<br />

One of the chefs was here recently to help with a Peruvian food festival<br />

at the <strong>Tokyo</strong> Hilton and I was happy to hear that the photo of him and<br />

Paris in his Lima restaurant still brings in customers. Here in <strong>Tokyo</strong>,<br />

Cristina helped with my and the <strong>Weekender</strong>’s Annual Christmas Party<br />

for orphans. She was great with the kids. The Escalas will really be<br />

missed and I thank them for many things while they were here.<br />

BRUNEI DARUSSALAM’S NATIONAL DAY<br />

AT NEW OTANI<br />

I wish the new Bruneian ambassador Ms. Kamilah Hanifah and<br />

her husband all the best in Japan. Before they arrived, the embassy celebrated<br />

their National Day with a well-attended reception at the New<br />

Otani. My good friends, the previous ambassador and Mrs. Mahamud<br />

Ahmad had already returned home, so a young, beautiful, and very<br />

smart lady called Jessica Tiah hosted the special evening. For a cultural<br />

touch, the embassy set up an interesting exhibition of traditional<br />

Bruneian musical instruments. The buffet, especially the selection of<br />

Bruneian specialties, was excellent. The Hyatt was well represented by<br />

Grand Hyatt GM Steve Dewire and the Park Hyatt’s GM Herve Mazella,<br />

both of whom were kept busy preparing for the many guests coming<br />

to see the cherry blossoms.<br />

HAPPY BIRTHDAY TOKO<br />

The Tolman Collection hosted the 104th birthday celebration of the<br />

world-famous painter and calligrapher Toko Shinoda at Musée Tomo<br />

in Toranomon. She is still painting and has a good sense of humor. The<br />

dynamic exhibition continues through <strong>May</strong> 28 and is really well worth<br />

seeing. The museum is closed on Mondays.<br />

DEWI’S DINNER FOR HER VISITING DAUGHTER<br />

It was great having Dewi Sukarno’s daughter Karina in town for a<br />

few days. I watched Karina grow up and we had some good times<br />

with a lot of interesting people. Karina, who now lives in London,<br />

was here with her husband Frits Frederik Seegers, and 10-year-old<br />

son Kiran. I had a great evening at a cherry blossom dinner for Karina<br />

and assorted celebrities at the famous Shiba Tofu Ukai restaurant,<br />

hosted by Dewi, who had just come back from Vietnam. Photos to<br />

come later.<br />

TO DO<br />

Earlier this month we checked out <strong>Tokyo</strong>’s colorful, fun, and growing-in-popularity<br />

Rainbow Pride week-long celebration. In addition<br />

to the three-kilometer parades, where some of the costumes get pretty<br />

wild, Yoyogi Park was buzzing with performances, parties, and<br />

booths run by both individuals and businesses that support the LG-<br />

BTQ community. I hope you also took time to camp it up a bit.<br />

HELP!<br />

I need a bit of community help: I was waiting for someone in the<br />

<strong>Tokyo</strong> American Club’s lobby when this nice guy came over and complimented<br />

me on my column. He looked familiar, but I just couldn’t<br />

remember his name. He gave me his card and it turned out that he<br />

was Greg Carley, the President of TAC several years ago. I thanked<br />

him for his comments and he asked me when I was going to write<br />

a book. He offered to send me a book by actor Roger Moore, whom<br />

you probably know as one of the most popular James Bonds. He kept<br />

his promise and sent me the book about the many people Moore met<br />

over the years, which I really enjoyed. I sent a thank you letter twice<br />

to the mailing address on his card – a PO box at the Shiba Koen post<br />

office – and both times it was returned. If you know Greg, please<br />

let him know – and thank him for me.<br />

Ferrari Senior Sales Manager Toshiatsu Abe and<br />

Marketing Director, Donato Romaniello<br />

Showbiz star Steven Haynes, The Sunwolves rugby<br />

team’s Liaki Moli, and his girlfriend Yoko Nishizumi<br />

at Shibuya Segafredo<br />

Former <strong>Tokyo</strong>ites, now New Yorkers Ron and Maria<br />

Anderson – back for the ILBS Cherry Blossom Ball<br />

TOKYO WEEKENDER | MAY <strong>2017</strong> | 49


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