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<strong>1859</strong>magazine. om<br />

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Imagine the possibilities.<br />

Do you have<br />

a plan for college?<br />


“ALWAYS<br />

LOOK UP.<br />

NEVER<br />

LOOK<br />


That’s the message McKenna Matteson has for<br />

anyone facing a health crisis. She would know.<br />

When she was two, doctors found an aggressive tumor in<br />

her brain. Since then, she’s had 16 surgeries and continues<br />

to cope with the after-effects of brain cancer. She’s also<br />

an incredibly optimistic 11-year-old who saves her quarters<br />

to help others in need, and who never spends a minute<br />

feeling sorry for herself.<br />

She and her family have made more than 60 trips from<br />

their home in Eugene to OHSU Doernbecher Children’s<br />

Hospital over the years. They’ve spent Christmas and<br />

birthdays in the hospital. They know how important it is to have a place<br />

to stay where they could be together and support McKenna. Someplace<br />

that feels like home.<br />

That’s why we’re building the new Gary & Christine Rood<br />

Family Pavilion. The new five-story guest house on<br />

Portland’s South Waterfront will help thousands of<br />

patients and families every year, with a range of services<br />

provided by Ronald McDonald House Charities.<br />

McKenna’s favorite word is hope; ours is healing. You<br />

can help provide both by donating to the guest house.<br />

With our goal in sight, your support now will make a<br />

real difference. Please make a gift today, and help<br />

OHSU build a new home for healing.<br />

See more of McKenna’s story at OnwardOHSU.org/HomeForHealing<br />




& SANTOS<br />

&<br />


The Oregon Humane Society provides love and affection for all the animals in our<br />

care. And sometimes, our volunteers get an equal benefit as well.<br />


Advertising space donated by <strong>1859</strong>. Creative services donated by Leopold Ketel.


How Santos charmed a<br />

new friend.<br />

Tim Hurtley is one of the Oregon Humane Society’s<br />

faithful volunteers. A self-described dog lover, Tim enjoys<br />

walking dogs twice a week. But during a stint at the<br />

Cascade Station, Mr. Hurtley was captivated by a different<br />

furry friend.<br />

Santos had been hanging around a little longer than some<br />

of the other animals. Tim took note of Santos because, as<br />

he says, “I like an animal with personality.” Together they<br />

spent many days playing with toys and giving head bumps.<br />

Santos and OHS<br />

Volunteer Tim Hurtley<br />

Santos found his Forever Home. But not without filling a<br />

special place in Tim’s heart. Volunteers are the lifeblood of<br />

OHS. Every day they help our furry friends in a variety of<br />

ways. From walking dogs to managing databases. They do<br />

it with love. And what they get back is immeasurable.<br />



Animal compassion begins with Officer Wallace, who serves as<br />

a Humane Special Agent for the state of Oregon. He and the<br />

rest of the team investigate thousands of abuse and neglect<br />

reports each year. These highly trained officers crisscross the<br />

state to find justice for animals.<br />

They also help pet owners who may not<br />

have enough resources. They’ll tell the<br />

down-on-his-luck farmer about the hay<br />

bank so that his horse will have plenty to<br />

eat. They’ll talk to a dog owner about the<br />

importance of shade, water, and<br />

shelter — and then mention the weekly<br />

food bank down the street.<br />



Animal Rescue<br />

Cruelty<br />

Investigations<br />

Behavior Training<br />

Veterinary Care<br />

Statewide Advocacy<br />


OHS partners with Oregon State University’s<br />

College of Veterinary Medicine where<br />

students learn about the physiology of<br />

animals and the relationship between a pet<br />

and its owner. They learn the unique needs of low-income pet<br />

owners, the factors that cause people to give their pets up, and<br />

how to spot abuse and neglect. They care for the animals and<br />

their companions. Take the case of Milagro the Miracle Kitty,<br />

who was found cold, starving, and seemingly dead in a storage<br />

unit. Dr. Kris Otteman, however, saw the life in him and spent<br />

months nursing and loving him back to health. After his rescue,<br />

Milagro spent his evenings snuggled in the lap of his owner<br />

Joanne, safe and warm in his Forever Home.<br />


When you get right down to it, the reason<br />

that Oregon is the best place for pets is that<br />

Oregonians love and honor animals.<br />

It’s working with state legislators to pass laws<br />

that reflect that belief. It’s teaching veterinarians<br />

who can bring that to every animal — and<br />

person — they encounter. It’s the person who<br />

cares enough to notice that a dog down the<br />

street looks a little too thin, a little too<br />

sick—and picks up the phone to call the OHS<br />

Investigations hotline. They all form an interconnecting<br />

web of love, each one of them, and<br />

you do, too. Thank you, Oregonians, from the<br />

pets and people of the Oregon Humane Society.<br />

Saving lives requires the dedication of volunteers, the<br />

vigilance of cruelty investigators, the compassion of<br />

our veterinary and behavior staff, and the kind hearts<br />

of folks like you. Join us.

Saving Santiam Lodge<br />

photography by Rob Kerr

FROM LEFT CLOCKWISE The Santiam Pass Ski Lodge is currently under consideration<br />

for a spot on the National Register of Historic Places. Willamette National Forest<br />

District Ranger Terry Baker shows the lodge to Dwight and Susan Sheets, who are<br />

considering applying for a permit to operate the lodge.<br />

NESTLED IN HEAVY TIMBER, the Santiam Pass Ski<br />

Lodge is easy to miss while driving across the pass<br />

on Highway 20 in the Willamette National Forest.<br />

The lodge was completed in February 1940 by<br />

the Civil Conservation Corps as part of the Three<br />

Fingered Jack Winter Sports Area development,<br />

which also included the original 1930s Hoodoo<br />

Ski Bowl. The lodge was designed as a ski lodge<br />

for up to sixty guests and included rooms for ski<br />

waxing and storage, as well as a lounge, dining and<br />

dormitory quarters. Local timber and stone from<br />

nearby Hogg Rock were used to build the facility,<br />

which was later modified for safety and access and<br />

used by a church group until 1986. The building<br />

fell into some disrepair, but was saved from the<br />

2003 Booth and Bear Complex Fire.<br />

The building is currently being considered for the<br />

National Register of Historic Places, and a decision<br />

is expected in late spring or early summer. The<br />

U.S. Forest Service is also currently considering<br />

proposals from those interested in operating the<br />

lodge with a permit.

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DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong> • volume 42<br />

72<br />

Discomfort Zone<br />

Extreme getaways to unsung corners<br />

of Oregon, and extreme comfort<br />

options for good measure<br />

written by James Sinks<br />

Pete Alport<br />

68<br />

Where’s the Beef?<br />

Behind the scenes at Symons Beef Company<br />

and Sisters Meat and Smokehouse<br />

written by Tricia Louvar<br />

80<br />

Backcountry Beauty<br />

Heading into the wilderness in winter<br />

photography by Tyler Roemer

Oregon Dungeness crab...<br />

Coming soon<br />

to a table near you!<br />

Support your local crab fleet, always<br />

ask for Oregon Dungeness Crab.<br />

www.oregondungeness.org | How do you #OREGONDUNGENESS


DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong> • volume 42<br />

100<br />

58<br />

COVER<br />

Snow camp at South Sister<br />

photography by Tyler Roemer<br />

Tim LaBarge<br />

30<br />

18 Editor’s Letter<br />

20 <strong>1859</strong> Online<br />

103 Map of Oregon<br />

104 Until Next Time<br />

Kevin Lahey<br />

Henry Croms<br />

LIVE<br />

25 NOTEBOOK<br />

Celebrate Oregon with a homebrew club, park patches and<br />

whale migration. Plus: a classic pop-rock band is getting<br />

Portland talking, and a married couple shares the secret to<br />

working together on their graphic novel.<br />

30 FOOD + DRINK<br />

Cellar 503 celebrates the Chardonnay that’s perfect for the<br />

holidays. Our Beerlandia columnist wonders what beers Santa<br />

might select at his favorite bottle shop. And check out our<br />

picks for winter-warmer cocktails.<br />

44 HOME + DESIGN<br />

A couple starts a vineyard, then decides to build a “passive<br />

house” that takes energy efficiency to the extreme. Lamb<br />

is the unsung hero of the meat case—options to avoid the<br />

overcooked, mint jelly-laden leg of old.<br />

50 MIND + BODY<br />

Talented runner Elyse Kopecky has a New York Times-bestselling<br />

cookbook that focuses on food as more than just fuel.<br />


With his book Tall Trees of Paris, Matt Wagner shows us<br />

artists’ secret haunts in the City of Light.<br />

THINK<br />

58 STARTUP<br />

Hemex Health aims to change the world with its new<br />

diagnostic device for malaria and sickle cell disease.<br />

60 WHAT’S GOING UP<br />

Bend finally has its own four-year campus. University of<br />

Oregon gets a big donation from Uncle Phil.<br />


UO professor’s startup brings 3D printing to the fashion world in a<br />

bid to end fabric waste.<br />


Chimps Inc.’s Kevin Doner talks the challenges of caring for retired<br />

apes.<br />


Victor Maldonado uses art to change how the Mexican-<br />

American immigrant experience is viewed.<br />



A tiny house hotel keeps Portland weird.<br />


Crater Lake is the backdrop for a beautiful (and free!) snowshoe<br />

adventure.<br />

92 LODGING<br />

Suttle Lodge brings urban chic to the Deschutes National<br />

Forest.<br />


Explore Sunriver in the winter, when outdoor activities and<br />

holiday magic merge in a snowy wonderland.<br />


Ski Northern California’s 14,000-foot dormant volcano with<br />

a winter trip to Mt. Shasta.

Exceeding Expectations for twenty years<br />

857 Mountain Meadows Drive, Ashland, Oregon 97520<br />

(800) 337-1301, www.mtmeadows.com<br />

Voted America’s Best by National Council on Senior’s Housing.

EDITOR Kevin Max<br />




DESIGN<br />











Colleen Peterson<br />

Sheila G. Miller<br />

Michael Williamson<br />

Linda Donahue<br />

Lindsay McWilliams<br />

Isaac Peterson<br />

Rob Kerr<br />

Brittney Hale<br />

Cindy Miskowiec<br />

Thor Erickson<br />

Jeremy Storton<br />

Jenny Kamprath<br />

Deb Steiger<br />

Jeff Helm<br />

Ashley Davis<br />

Sandra King<br />

Kelly Hervey<br />

Melissa Dalton, Thor Erickson, Julie Lee, Sophia McDonald,<br />

Jeremy Storton, Carrie Wynkoop, Andes Hruby, Ben McBee,<br />

Tricia Louvar, Gina Williams, Lee Lewis Husk, James Sinks,<br />

Kjersten Hellis, Kathy Patten<br />

Shauna Intelisano, Joni Kabana, Ben McBee, Tyler Roemer,<br />

Jason Quigley, Tim LaBarge, Claire Thorington, Thomas Boyd,<br />

Kevin Lahey, Pete Alport<br />

Statehood Media<br />

PMB 218, 70 SW Century Dr.<br />

Suite 100-218<br />

Bend, Oregon 97702<br />

541.728.2764<br />

<strong>1859</strong>magazine.com/subscribe<br />

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All rights reserved. No part of this publiCation may be reproduCed or transmitted in any form or by any means, eleCtroniCally or meChaniCally, inCluding<br />

photoCopy, reCording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media. ArtiCles and photographs<br />

appearing in <strong>1859</strong> Oregon’s Magazine may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the express written Consent of the publisher. <strong>1859</strong> Oregon’s Magazine<br />

and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these artiCles are not neCessarily<br />

those of <strong>1859</strong> Oregon’s Magazine, Statehood Media or its employees, staff or management.<br />

Statehood Media sets high standards to ensure forestry is praCtiCed in an environmentally responsible, soCially benefiCial and eConomiCally viable way. This<br />

issue of <strong>1859</strong> Magazine was printed by AmeriCan Web on reCyCled paper using inks with a soy base. Our printer is a Certified member of the Forestry Stewardship<br />

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When you are finished with this issue, please pass it on to a friend or reCyCle it. We Can have a better world if we Choose it together.

“This is your go-to wine, your goes with<br />

everything wine. Always delicious, never<br />

<br />

and complex. I call it affordable luxury.”<br />

~ Joe Dobbes<br />

Winemaker and Winery Owner<br />

Dundee, Oregon<br />

Wine By Joe<br />

Wine without attitude<br />

winebyjoe.com I dundee, oregon<br />







As a naughty vegan and a<br />

As an outdoor sports and<br />

Getting to tour this stunning<br />

Growing up in Klamath Falls, I<br />

longtime vegetarian, I found the<br />

adventure photographer, I find<br />

home with its architect and<br />

learned a thing or two—but that<br />

butchers by happenstance but<br />

myself deep in the wilderness<br />

interior designer was a treat,<br />

was about it. Suffice it to say, not<br />

knew I wanted to tell their story<br />

during the winter months<br />

as they explained their favorite<br />

on the short list were “brilliant<br />

and the story of beef in Central<br />

camping and photographing<br />

elements along the way. We<br />

dating tactics.” As David Ogilvy,<br />

Oregon. I took the opportunity<br />

backcountry skiing and<br />

wanted to showcase the<br />

the father of advertising, once<br />

to jump outside my comfort<br />

snowboarding. Sleeping in the<br />

marriage of beauty and practical<br />

quipped: “If you can’t be brilliant,<br />

zone and plunged into the<br />

snow, waking up before the sun<br />

livability the home offers. The<br />

at least be memorable.” This<br />

assignment with an open mind<br />

rises, waiting for the weather to<br />

morning light streaming in made<br />

assignment is a case in point.<br />

and a space of nonjudgment.<br />

clear and slogging up mountains<br />

the rooms glow. “Home Grown,”<br />

Drawing on my travels across<br />

I reported from the ranch and<br />

with tons of gear becomes<br />

(p. 44)<br />

the state, I tried to highlight how<br />

smokehouse with an intense<br />

routine for me and my friends.<br />

Oregon’s wintertime offers an<br />

interest in their trades and them<br />

It may sound like torture for<br />

array of audacious ideas to try<br />

as hard-working people.<br />

some but I find my peace out<br />

to kindle romance—while also<br />

“The Art of Beef,”<br />

in the snowy wild. “Oregon’s<br />

kindling a campfire. Memorable<br />

(p. 68)<br />

Backcountry,”<br />

indeed. “Extreme Getaways,”<br />

(p. 80)<br />

(p. 72)<br />

16 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong>

“The original and still the best”<br />

Tickets Available online <strong>December</strong> 1, <strong>2016</strong><br />

TM<br />

40 th Annual<br />

Presenting Sponsor<br />

Newport Seafood & Wine Festival<br />

South Beach Marina Newport, Oregon<br />

February 23-26, 2017<br />


EDITOR’S<br />

LETTER<br />

I CAN’T THINK OF a harder 5k than<br />

this slog that took place in a hurricane<br />

during a Cross Crusade event at<br />

Cascade Locks this fall. It had its own<br />

beauty. The mud was so deep in places<br />

that I feared my legs, plunged to the<br />

ankle, would come up again shoeless.<br />

If there were any pleasantry to be<br />

saved from this race, it’s that you knew<br />

you were spraying mud in the faces of<br />

those behind you, because you were<br />

getting pelted by those in front of you.<br />

An artist not involved in this struggle<br />

might have seen this as a Jackson<br />

Pollock canvas laid flat along the Columbia River Gorge. For<br />

Photo Editor Rob Kerr (and maker of this picture), it was<br />

a photographic playground that culminated in a portfolio<br />

of stunning photos under duress. Find this portfolio by<br />

searching “cyclocross” on our website.<br />

Now close your eyes and paint events like this with snow<br />

and you have the palette for “Extreme Getaways” on page 72.<br />

From packing into the Wallowas and skiing down some of<br />

Oregon’s most dauntingly beautiful terrain to knocking off<br />

sections of the PCT, these outings combine nature and nerve.<br />

We’ve added a high-thread-count alternative to each in case<br />

you get cold feet and crave a more cozy option.<br />

In Home + Design, owners of a biodynamic vineyard<br />

invite us in to their own version of cozy just outside of<br />

Jacksonville. Our shelter and design writer, Melissa Dalton,<br />

takes us inside this simple, sophisticated den built on the<br />

principles of passive energy (page 44).<br />

Finally, we wish you all the happiest of holidays with<br />

some great food and drink recipes and ideas. The apple<br />

cider slider (just add fireplace), grilled lamb steaks with<br />

balsamic-braised figs and our best places for holiday<br />

drinks are more reasons to find friends and family and<br />

relax together.<br />

Of course, no holiday is truly joyful without a good<br />

Oregon wine. The <strong>1859</strong> Wine Club is offering new<br />

members bottles of Oregon-grown sparkling wines during<br />

<strong>December</strong>. This is the perfect gift for wine lovers in your<br />

circle of family and friends. Go to <strong>1859</strong>oregonmagazine.<br />

com/wineclub to join us in a toast to the new year.<br />

At Statehood Media, we’ll be busy as elves as we prepare<br />

to launch our first issue of 1889 Washington’s Magazine,<br />

a bi-monthly based on the same Live, Think, Explore<br />

mission. We invite you to explore a little more of the Pacific<br />

Northwest with us in the beautiful Evergreen State. Go to<br />

1889mag.com to start your expanded journey. Cheers!<br />

18 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong>

<strong>1859</strong> ONLINE<br />

More ways to connect with your favorite Oregon content<br />

<strong>1859</strong>magazine.com | #<strong>1859</strong>oregon | @<strong>1859</strong>oregon<br />





Share it with us by filling out<br />

the Oregon Postcard form on<br />

our website. If chosen, you’ll<br />

win custom <strong>1859</strong> gear and a<br />

chance to be published here.<br />

<strong>1859</strong>magazine.com/postcard<br />

photo by Mermanda Dawn<br />

A couple walks their dogs on the beach at<br />

Cape Blanco during sunset.<br />



Win a three-day, two-night stay<br />

at Logan‘s Lodge near Lincoln<br />

City. Treat yourself by staying in<br />

this luxury five-bedroom, threebathroom<br />

oceanfront home with a<br />

hot tub that accommodates thirteen<br />

guests. Contest runs <strong>December</strong> 1-14.<br />


<strong>1859</strong>magazine.com/beachfront<br />



Read more about how Oregon’s<br />

only chimp sanctuary, Chimps<br />

Inc., gives captive animals a life<br />

of dignity.<br />

<strong>1859</strong>magazine.com/chimps<br />

20 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong>

HELLO, BEND.<br />

Affiliated Media, Oregon’s largest independent media firm<br />

is now open in Bend. Not familiar with our company? Not to<br />

worry, you soon will be. We coordinate the marketing and<br />

advertising for over 50 local and regional companies. Our client<br />

roster reads like a “who’s who” of some the best-known and<br />

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advertising to Affiliated Media.<br />


Claire Thorington<br />

NOTEBOOK 25<br />

FOOD + DRINK 30<br />

HOME + DESIGN 36<br />

MIND + BODY 50<br />


(pg. 44)<br />

Passive house takes eco-building to the next level.<br />

DECEMBER 23 <strong>2016</strong> <strong>1859</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S OREGON’S MAGAZINE MAGAZINE AUGUST <strong>2016</strong> 23

No Silent Nights in Bend!<br />

Carols, Comedy & Choirs (and some Rock ‘n’ Roll)<br />

Dec 3 & 4<br />

Dec 5<br />

Dec 6<br />

Dec 8<br />

Cascade Chorale<br />

Holiday Magic<br />

“Annie”, “Rock of Ages”,<br />

“Guys & Dolls” Preview<br />

Tommy Emmanuel<br />

Classics & Christmas Tour<br />

Voetberg Family Christmas<br />

Dec 10 & 11 Central Oregon Mastersingers<br />

Dec 15 & 16 The Night Before<br />

The Night Before Christmas<br />

Dec 17<br />

Dec 21-23<br />

The Trail Band<br />

A Tower Christmas<br />

Photo by Justin Clifton<br />


541-317-0700 TowerTheatre.org<br />

The Tower Theatre<br />

@towertheatrebnd<br />

TheTowerTheatre<br />


Tidbits + To-dos<br />

notebook<br />

Whale Watching Week<br />

This month, watch nearly 20,000 gray whales<br />

migrate south from the Oregon Coast. Whale<br />

Watching Week, from <strong>December</strong> 27-31, is put<br />

on by Oregon State Parks and includes 300<br />

volunteers stationed at twenty-four sites up and<br />

down the coast to answer questions and point<br />

out possible whale sightings.<br />

oregonstateparks.org<br />

Patchmarks<br />

Patchmarks, a Kickstarter brand that took off last<br />

summer, has released a line of fifty-three original patches,<br />

each representing one of Oregon’s state parks. Portland<br />

illustrator Kevin M. Fitzgerald has created simple designs<br />

that incorporate iconic features of each park. A portion of<br />

all sales from the patches will go to the Oregon State Parks<br />

Foundation’s Ticket2Ride program, which funds school<br />

transportation to state parks.<br />

patchmarks.com<br />

Velo Bed & Breakfast<br />

Of course Eugene would have a bed-and-breakfast that<br />

caters especially to bicyclists. In addition to bike artwork<br />

throughout the cozy home, Velo offers a discount to<br />

guests arriving by bike and provides access to a bike builder<br />

who lives on-site. Co-owner Misha English, who opened the<br />

popular Morning Glory Café, serves organic, vegan and<br />

vegetarian breakfasts each morning.<br />

velobandb.com<br />

DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 25

notebook<br />

Musician<br />

Olio E Osso Balms<br />

Olio E Osso believes less is more when it comes to beauty<br />

products. The Portland company makes versatile, multipurpose<br />

balms and oils. Clear menthol balms in the form of a stick can<br />

be used for chapped lips, sore temples or as a decongestant,<br />

while colored balms are the perfect pigment to brighten lips<br />

and cheeks.<br />

olioeosso.com<br />

The Domestics<br />

The Working-Class Band<br />

written by Lindsay McWilliams<br />

photography by Jason Quigley<br />

Brad Norton, Kyle Moderhak, Matt<br />

Moore, Michael Finn and Leo London<br />

make up The Domestics.<br />

Oregon Brew Crew<br />

Touted as Oregon’s oldest homebrew club, the Oregon Brew<br />

Crew gathered in 1979 and continues to expand its reach as a<br />

nonprofit organization. In addition to monthly meetings, the<br />

Crew hosts several home-brewing competitions, including the<br />

Annual Fall Classic Homebrew Competition at Ecliptic Brewing<br />

in Portland. Membership to the club includes access to shared<br />

home-brewing equipment and entrance to classes, outings<br />

and parties.<br />

oregonbrewcrew.org<br />

THE DOMESTICS WOULD CALL themselves “a working-class<br />

band,” in the same way that domestic beer is working-class beer.<br />

“If we can pay our rent at the end of a tour, we’re happy,” drummer,<br />

bassist and singer Michael Finn said. Financially stable or not, The<br />

Domestics are one of the most promising bands to emerge from the<br />

Portland scene in the past two years. Of the band’s debut album in<br />

July 2015, songs like “American Drag” reveal its classic, pop-rock<br />

sound influenced by The Beatles and The Velvet Underground. Last<br />

spring, The Domestics finished a second album which will release<br />

sometime in 2017. Leo London, who wrote all of the lyrics for the<br />

new album, said it will be “darker, heavier and more orchestrated.”<br />

mark your<br />


DECEMBER 11<br />

Catch a glimpse of the upcoming record at the<br />

Crystal Ballroom in Portland.<br />

mcmenamins.com/events<br />

26 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong>

Having visions<br />

of sugarplums? Us too.<br />

We get really into the holidays… the food,<br />

the friends, the family. It’s one of our<br />

favorite times of year. So bring your family and<br />

friends by for a relaxing holiday wine tasting.<br />

Open Everyday.<br />

Weekdays 11-4:30, Weekends 11 to 5<br />

We’ve teamed up with 3 organizations to brew 3 different beers<br />

<br />

17770 ne Calkins Lane, Newberg, Oregon<br />

arborbrookwines.com | tel 503-538-0959<br />

<br />

Mountain Rescue<br />

<br />

Brewing Adventurous Ales in Bend, OR since 2011<br />


LODGE & SPA<br />


Discover the Oregon Coast.<br />

Visit the Overleaf Lodge.<br />

800–338–0507<br />



notebook<br />

Bibliophile<br />

Owning the Mayhem<br />

Ariel Cohn + Aron Nels Steinke<br />

strike gold with their graphic novel<br />

interviewed by Tricia Louvar<br />

photography by Tim LaBarge<br />

Artist Aron Nels Steinke used to have drawing nights<br />

with friends. They came together in Portland with<br />

sleeves of pencils to create new characters and lives<br />

where none existed before. Nowadays, he declines offers<br />

for collective draw-ins. His life has become hectic, being<br />

part teacher, father, husband and graphic novelist. He<br />

doesn’t have to go far, however, for creative inspiration.<br />

His wife, Ariel Cohn, is a creative force, so much so that<br />

they created an award-winning graphic novel. Their<br />

collaboration resulted in The Zoo Box (First Second<br />

Books), winner of the <strong>2016</strong> Oregon Book Award for<br />

best graphic novel. We caught up with the busy couple<br />

to gain insight into their creative process and how to<br />

balance the live-work-play triad.<br />

Aron Nels Steinke and Ariel Cohn, authors of The Zoo Box, at Ariel’s school.<br />

What launched the original book idea<br />

for The Zoo Box? Was it a randomly<br />

written line from Ariel? A drawing<br />

from Aron?<br />

Aron: If I remember it right, it was all<br />

Ariel. She sat down one day and came up<br />

with the idea of animals coming out of a<br />

box, and I knew it would be a fun idea to<br />

illustrate. Most of the plot was just with<br />

the animals and kids making mayhem and<br />

them having a big feast together.<br />

Ariel: Yes, that was the original idea and the<br />

rest of the plot came to me another day.<br />

Describe the process from writing to<br />

illustrating. Who does what first? Or<br />

do you work in tandem? How does a<br />

collaborative process work?<br />

Aron: Ariel had come up with the<br />

story outline. Once I sat down to start<br />

pacing it out in pictures, I started<br />

adding the dialogue.<br />

Ariel: It was pretty collaborative. I came<br />

up with the outline and then we pieced<br />

it together as we went. There was a<br />

lot of editing along the way, and Aron<br />

definitely contributed to the story.<br />

What surprised you during the<br />

process of writing and illustrating<br />

this book together?<br />

Aron: I was surprised that it was so<br />

easy. I really don’t work well on creative<br />

projects with other people, because<br />

my expectations are pretty unrealistic.<br />

Somehow it worked with us. I guess that’s<br />

the same reason why we’re married.<br />

Ariel: It was fun to describe how I<br />

thought a page should look and have<br />

Aron create it. It was fun to see my ideas<br />

expressed visually.<br />

Aron, artists wonder how to find<br />

their drawing style. How did you<br />

find your artistic style?<br />

I began to find my own drawing style<br />

once I had a story I wanted to tell. It was<br />

a story about Ariel and I and a flight to<br />

New York. I wanted to communicate the<br />

events and emotions we felt, quickly and<br />

with humor, so I drew it with tiny, stick<br />

figure-like panels. These crude drawings<br />

were much better at communicating.<br />

Ever since then, I try to keep my style as<br />

simple as possible. I think artists tend to<br />

evolve toward streamlining and trimming.<br />

What brought you to the Pacific<br />

Northwest? Why did you select<br />

Portland as home?<br />

Aron: I grew up in Vancouver,<br />

Washington. My mom’s family traces<br />

back to the homesteading days. We had<br />

family come over pretty early on the<br />

Oregon Trail. I love our forests and trees.<br />

Ariel: I moved here in 2001 to attend Lewis<br />

& Clark College as an undergraduate<br />

and never left. I was drawn to the mist,<br />

the damp woods. I grew up mostly in<br />

Southern California, and Portland felt so<br />

different to me at the time.<br />

Do you have another book or project<br />

in the works? What’s next for you as<br />

a creative team?<br />

Aron: I’m working on a graphic novel<br />

series for kids called Mr. Wolf’s Class, for<br />

Scholastic’s Graphix imprint.<br />

Ariel: I have books in the works. I’m<br />

hoping to sit and get them organized.<br />

28 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong>


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food + drink<br />

Jeremy Storton<br />

Beerlandia<br />

Message in a Bottle Shop<br />

written by Jeremy Storton<br />

I’VE BEEN SUSPICIOUS of old Saint Nick for years. Not whether he exists.<br />

Rather, does he really drink just milk? If milk does a body good, then why does he<br />

have a little round belly that shakes when he laughs like a bowl full of jelly? Using<br />

deductive reasoning, I think the jolly old elf cracks open a well-deserved winter<br />

warmer at the end of his long shift.<br />

So then, what kind of beer does a hard-working, world-traveling, nonprofitmanaging<br />

citizen drink at the end of a hard day? If he travels the world in a night,<br />

shouldn’t he have his pick? Does he prefer an old cask ale from the Isles, a Baltic<br />

porter closer to home, or a Belgian Kriek ripe with oak and dark cherries? Perhaps<br />

he has a penchant for new world imperial IPAs. The choice must be overwhelming,<br />

but nonetheless, the choice is his.<br />

Such is our fortunate plight. We have a choice in the form of bottle shops that,<br />

depending on our choices, can take us on a tour of the world all in one night.<br />

Oregonians love IPAs, sours and many others, but when is the last time we enjoyed<br />

a smoky German rauchbier with a ham, a Belgian framboise with cookies or a<br />

Spanish honey-rosemary gastro ale with hors d’oeuvres? Perhaps it’s time to get<br />

into the holiday spirit and give worldly gifts in nicely capped brown glass packages.<br />

After all, they fit perfectly in a stocking.<br />

Spanish gastro ales are one of many rare finds at John’s<br />

Marketplace in Portland’s Multnomah Village.<br />



La Socarrada<br />


Ale brewed with rosemary and rosemary honey.<br />

¡Salud!<br />

sublimeimports.com<br />

Schlenkerla Rauchbier<br />


Traditional malty and smoky. Perfect with meats.<br />

schlenkerla.de<br />

Mort Subite Kriek Lambic<br />


Full-bodied, complex, dark Belgian cherries.<br />

Makes “sudden death” taste mmm-mmm good!<br />

alamortsubite.com<br />

Fuller’s Vintage Ale<br />


Exceptionally smooth, malty with notes of sherry<br />

and cognac. Jolly good!<br />

fullers.co.uk<br />


See a list of Oregon’s best bottle shops at <strong>1859</strong>magazine.com/beer<br />

30 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong>

food + drink<br />

Recipe Card<br />

recipe by Tiana Brooks, bartender<br />

Bridgewater Fresh Fish House and Zebra Bar in Florence<br />

photography by Rob Kerr<br />

Walter Scott Wines<br />

written by Carrie Wynkoop of Cellar 503<br />

LEAVES ARE TURNING as we drive through the hills outside of<br />

Salem. Look closely, or you’ll pass the small driveway leading to<br />

Walter Scott Wines and miss out on a hidden gem. Perched atop<br />

rolling hills of vines just starting to show fall’s yellow in the afternoon<br />

sun, this is the home of Ken Pahlow and Erica Landon, the husbandand-wife<br />

team behind Walter Scott Wines.<br />

Between them, they have more than twenty years’ experience in<br />

every aspect of the wine industry. Pahlow helped make wine for some<br />

of the Willamette Valley’s best-known producers—St. Innocent,<br />

Patricia Green and Evening Land Vineyards—and distributed and<br />

sold wine throughout the region. Landon comes from the world of<br />

wine education, teaching certification classes for the Wine and Spirit<br />

Education Trust. She also comes from the restaurant industry, curating<br />

wine lists for Blue Hour, Ten 01, and other Portland restaurants.<br />

They dreamed of owning their own winery. In 20<strong>12</strong>, that dream<br />

became a reality. Pahlow and Landon found a perfect plot in the<br />

Eola-Amity Hills leased from the Casteel family of Bethel Heights<br />

Vineyards. They then secured grape contracts from some of the most<br />

sought-after vineyards.<br />

Today, Walter Scott Wines is best known for producing elegant, singlevineyard<br />

pinot noir and Chardonnay from the Eola-Amity Hills, and truly<br />

representing the terroir from each site. Their blends bring together fruit<br />

from multiple sites that complement and highlight each other. Priced<br />

affordably, these Willamette Valley blends are named La Combe Verte as<br />

an homage to well-known winemaker Patricia Green, who encouraged<br />

them to start their own project and housed their efforts for several years.<br />

We are excited to feature the La Combe Verte Chardonnay as one<br />

of our <strong>December</strong> selections. It will be the perfect addition to any<br />

holiday meal.<br />

Apple Cider Slider<br />

1 ounce spiced rum<br />

1 ounce Dekuyper Sour Apple Pucker<br />

Splash Dekuyper Hot Damn<br />

6 ounces hot apple cider<br />

Garnish w/cinnamon sticks<br />

Start with 6 ounces hot, fresh apple cider.<br />

Add 1 ounce spiced rum of your choice.<br />

Add 1 ounce Dekuyper Sour Apple Pucker<br />

and a dash of Dekuyper Hot Damn<br />

(a little goes a long way).<br />

Drop in two cinnamon sticks for garnish.<br />

Join the <strong>1859</strong> Wine Club to explore more Oregon wines at<br />

<strong>1859</strong>magazine.com/wineclub<br />

DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 31

food + drink<br />

Gastronomy<br />




Holidays beg for a hot toddy as the perfect finish<br />

to a brisk walk in crisp air on a weekend afternoon.<br />

Eugene offers a gorgeous setting for the walk, and<br />

Excelsior Inn offers the cozy enclave in the middle<br />

of a college campus to hole up in for an Excelsior<br />

Spanish Coffee, made with rum, Kahlua, Tia Maria<br />

and Grand Marnier.<br />

754 E. 13TH AVE.<br />

EUGENE<br />

excelsiorinn.com<br />

Henry Croms<br />



Inside the restored landmark Ashland Springs<br />

Hotel is one of the best farm-to-table restaurants<br />

in Southern Oregon: Larks Home Kitchen Cuisine.<br />

Mastering a collaboration between local artisans,<br />

farmers, and ranchers to produce incredible<br />

Oregon bounty-filled dishes is chef Damon Jones.<br />

Start a cozy evening with a winter pear martini<br />

made with Clear Creek pear brandy, pear purée,<br />

and a white wine reduction, or a cinnamonappletini<br />

with Wild Roots cinnamon-apple vodka.<br />

2<strong>12</strong> E. MAIN ST.<br />


ashlandspringshotel.com<br />

Southern Comfort<br />

The Waiting Room charms NW Portland<br />

written by Julie Lee<br />

IF YOU OBSESS OVER ANY combination of champagne, oysters and fried<br />

chicken, or have a hankering for traditional New Orleans-style dishes using<br />

Oregon bounty, The Waiting Room in Portland calls. Ginger BBQ shrimp is bathed<br />

in housemade Worcestershire, ginger beer, lemongrass and assorted chilies, and<br />

served alongside slow-cooked crispy ginger with a sweet potato biscuit. The<br />

revolutionary fried chicken is brined, air-dried, seasoned, battered then fried over<br />

the course of four days, resulting in fried chicken that is juicy on the inside, crispy<br />

on the outside, in a process that should be patented. The banana cream pie holds<br />

court as one of the finest desserts in the city. One of Portland’s most successful<br />

restaurant upstarts of <strong>2016</strong> is tucked to one side of NW 23rd and Kearney. The<br />

location begged visionaries to capitalize on its historic charm after many failed<br />

restaurants with false starts at the same locale. It became a match made in heaven<br />

for owners and chefs Tom Dunklin and Kyle Rourke, who sought the perfect site.<br />

Thoughtful details abound, from hand-sewn napkins, locally handcrafted tables,<br />

plates and lights, and an upstairs champagne bar with a balcony overlooking the<br />

central nervous system of holiday shopping bustle.<br />

2327 NW KEARNEY ST.<br />


thewaitingroompdx.com<br />

32 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong><br />

Oysters and champagne at The Waiting Room.<br />


It’s a fact that Bend is stunning in the winter:<br />

The air is cool and fresh, the chance of<br />

snowfall 100 percent, and as dusk falls and<br />

lights shimmer, there are numerous resorts<br />

to visit for a hot toddy. Pronghorn Resort<br />

lodge’s magnificence, heightened in winter<br />

with the Cascade Range wrapping around the<br />

resort like a blanket, is a bucket list visit. Grab<br />

a Baileys and coffee in the lodge, find your<br />

favorite deep leather chair, and de-stress.<br />


BEND<br />

pronghornresort.com<br />


For a world-renowned, celebratory sparkling wine,<br />

Oregonians can head straight to the source.<br />

Argyle has been producing award-winning<br />

sparkling wines in Dundee for thirty years, and<br />

visiting the beautifully renovated tasting room<br />

is a great excuse for a drive through Willamette<br />

Valley to do some holiday shopping and sipping,<br />

all in one afternoon. An innovative consortium<br />

between Argyle and the Pacific Northwest College<br />

of Art resulted in a limited edition three-bottle<br />

gift box that makes for a gasp-worthy holiday gift<br />

or the perfect trifecta of bubbles for an at-home<br />

holiday celebration.<br />

691 OR-99W<br />

DUNDEE<br />



TO THOSE<br />




food + drink<br />


PIZZA<br />

University of Oregon was recently voted<br />

the top tailgate school in the country by<br />

Tailgater Magazine, so it’s fitting that a<br />

groundbreaking, on-campus brewery just<br />

opened. Falling Sky Brewery’s Pizzeria &<br />

Public House inside UO’s student union<br />

offers great pub food with a foodie flare:<br />

zucchini bruschetta, pastrami spiced chicken<br />

wings, and beer cheese fries, as well as pizza<br />

and pints to unwin d—before, after, or during<br />

class.<br />

UO Erb Memorial Union<br />

1395 UNIVERSITY ST. RM #46<br />

EUGENE<br />

fallingskybrewing.com<br />

SUSHI<br />

Bend is on the national map for breweries,<br />

but sushi? That too! Kanpai Sushi & Sake Bar<br />

delivers the trifecta: quality, innovation and<br />

service. We recommend the Omakase: Let<br />

the sushi chef choose and deliver a tasting<br />

menu with the favorite fresh fish option for<br />

the day. You choose the level of spice.<br />

990 NW NEWPORT AVE.<br />

BEND<br />

kanpai-bend.com<br />


They aren’t pretty, but they sure are<br />

delicious. Truffles are foraged by hunting<br />

dogs and used by chefs as an exclamation<br />

point on many a dish. People either love<br />

them or hate them, but those who love<br />

them are willing to spend good money to<br />

enjoy them, sometimes $900 per pound.<br />

The Annual Oregon Truffle Festival is<br />

three days of fanatical fungal festivities<br />

from McMinnville to Eugene and includes<br />

workshops, cooking demos, seminars, wine<br />

pairings, multicourse dinners and foraging<br />

exhibitions, all starting January 20. Tickets<br />

are on sale now. Get your truffle on!<br />

oregontrufflefestival.com<br />


What do you get when you mix mascarpone<br />

cheese, duck egg yolks and freshly grated<br />

nutmeg? You get ice cream<br />

worth driving to the coast<br />

for. Stephanie Inn’s chef<br />

Aaron Bedard masters<br />

the holidays in the form<br />

of a dessert.<br />

2740 S. PACIFIC ST.<br />


stephanieinn.com<br />

Dining<br />

Dining<br />

Park Kitchen<br />

written by Julie Lee<br />

CHEF DAVID SAPP’S house-made<br />

pappardelle with lamb ragu, fava<br />

beans and Pecorino Romano is just<br />

one of the many delectable classic<br />

dishes being served at Park Kitchen<br />

in Portland. The one-house model, a<br />

newer concept where chefs can serve<br />

and servers can cook, is six months<br />

old at Park Kitchen and a gamechanging<br />

future model for restaurants<br />

everywhere. Every employee at the<br />

restaurant is personally invested in the<br />

overall guest experience, and gratuity<br />

The lamb ragu at Park Kitchen in Northwest Portland.<br />

is included in the pricing, so there<br />

is no need to number crunch at the<br />

end of a good meal. Park Kitchen has<br />

transcended time as a Portland staple,<br />

as new restaurants open and others<br />

shutter frequently. Tucked off the<br />

Portland park blocks, this is the perfect<br />

spot for a celebratory night out with a<br />

true urban neighborhood vibe.<br />

422 NW 8TH<br />


parkkitchen.com<br />

David Reamer<br />

34 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong><br />

MORE ONLINE For more Oregon eats, visit <strong>1859</strong>magazine.com/dining

home + design<br />

Farm to Table<br />

Oregon Lamb<br />

Getting back to basics<br />

written by Sophia McDonald<br />

photography by Rob Kerr<br />

36 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong>

home + design<br />

LEFT Reed Anderson says his ranch lambs are grass-fed and handled with as little stress as<br />

possible. ABOVE Anderson Ranch lamb is the choice for many top chefs.<br />


are most willing to look beyond the<br />

grocery store meat case’s holy trinity of<br />

chicken, beef and pork. Even foodies find<br />

themselves eyeing lamb with a mixture of<br />

curiosity and apprehension.<br />

Lamb is still a tough sell for many<br />

Americans. Those unaccustomed to the<br />

bold flavor of imported products may find<br />

it gamey. Nearly everyone has gnawed their<br />

way through leather-tough lamb that was<br />

cooked incorrectly, seasoned poorly and<br />

served with a side of gelatinous mint jelly.<br />

Besides, said Reed Anderson with<br />

Anderson Ranches in Brownsville, “It’s<br />

hard to get people to eat something with<br />

a cute face.”<br />

Anderson can’t make consumers forget<br />

their affection for the wooly animals,<br />

but he’s trying his best to do something<br />

about the rest of these challenges. His<br />

entrepreneurial approach to raising,<br />

butchering and selling his favorite meat is<br />

making lamb more accessible and enjoyable<br />

for Oregonians.<br />

Anderson and his wife, Robyn, both<br />

grew up in sheep-raising households<br />

and wanted to continue ranching as<br />

their career. To get started, they needed<br />

acreage, something neither had inherited<br />

from their families.<br />

Anderson traveled all over the<br />

Northwest shearing sheep to save money<br />

for the first ranch. Shearing is bone-weary<br />

and dirty work, but raising grass-fed lamb<br />

has its own challenges. The top-producing<br />

countries—China, Australia and New<br />

Zealand—have lower-value currencies,<br />

which means they can sell their meat<br />

cheaper than American producers.<br />

West Coast lamb producers also have<br />

a supply-chain problem. Few large-scale<br />

slaughterhouses remain in the region.<br />

Anderson found a small operation in<br />

Springfield that could take some of his<br />

lambs but, to be profitable, he needed<br />

someone who could take all of them.<br />

Growing up, Anderson heard stories<br />

about his grandfather and greatgrandfather’s<br />

custom slaughterhouse. They<br />

butchered lambs themselves, then drove<br />

them to Portland and sold cuts from the<br />

back of their truck. Selling to consumers<br />

didn’t interest him, but eliminating the<br />

middleman by working directly with<br />

wholesalers did. “I started going to stores<br />

and saying, ‘If we have lambs available,<br />

would you buy them?’ They said absolutely,”<br />

Anderson said.<br />

With some confidence in the demand for<br />

lamb, he started working on the supply side.<br />

“I looked into buying a [slaughterhouse],<br />

but when you do that you’re buying a<br />

bunch of problems,” he said. Most were<br />

built in the 1950s or '60s and need serious<br />

updating. Instead, Anderson<br />

decided to build one from scratch.<br />

DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 37

home + design<br />

Reed Anderson added a high-end processing facility to Anderson<br />

Ranch to better control and handle its lamb production.<br />

It took two years, but today his<br />

Brownsville abattoir processes 250 lambs a<br />

week. It also handles up to 150 sheep, goats<br />

and cows from surrounding farms.<br />

“I’m pretty sure we’re the only ranch<br />

in the United States with processing<br />

onsite,” Anderson said. Forget about farm<br />

to table, he joked, “Our lamb is from<br />

conception to table.”<br />

To get consumers excited about eating it,<br />

Anderson has done cooking demos up and<br />

down the West Coast and made YouTube<br />

videos. He focuses on the best way to cook<br />

lamb—grilling wins hands down, he said—<br />

and educating consumers that domestic<br />

lamb has a milder flavor more pleasing to<br />

American palates.<br />

Surprisingly, Oregon wines have<br />

boosted sales, he said. As chefs across<br />

the country organize wine dinners that<br />

highlight different regions, they want<br />

foods from that region too. Lamb is a nice<br />

change from salmon when highlighting<br />

the Pacific Northwest.<br />

Despite his success with vertical<br />

integration and creative marketing, he<br />

finds the lamb business a tough one. “But<br />

I really enjoy the entrepreneurial part,” he<br />

said. “I enjoy seeing things grow and then<br />

seeing people get excited about them.<br />

We’re very passionate about our product,<br />

and when you’re able to share that passion<br />

with someone who appreciates your hard<br />

work, I really like that.”<br />

Approximately 2,500 Oregonians raise<br />

up to 250,000 lambs every year. While<br />

some are kept for wool, Richard Kosesan,<br />

executive director of the Oregon Sheep<br />

Growers Association, said the focus has<br />

shifted to meat production in recent<br />

years. “It’s a great protein source,” he said.<br />

“People who haven’t tried it in recent years<br />

really should.”<br />

If you’re ready to do just that, lamb<br />

leg steaks with balsamic-braised figs<br />

is a great place to start. A recipe from<br />

chef Adam Sappington at Portland’s The<br />

Country Cat combines grilled lamb with<br />

syrupy figs cooked with balsamic vinegar<br />

and pinot noir.<br />

If the idea of cooking lamb cuts is still<br />

too terrifying, buy ground lamb and<br />

make weeknight lamb bolognese from<br />

Nate Rafn, chef of Rafns’ Restaurant, a<br />

Salem eatery that focuses on using local<br />

and organic ingredients.<br />

Ground lamb is also featured in the<br />

shepherd’s pie from Smithfields Pub &<br />

Pies in Ashland. The mashed potatotopped<br />

dish from chef Neil Clooney will<br />

warm the house and your belly on cold<br />

winter evenings.<br />

38 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong>

Immerse yourself<br />

evocative<br />

in the sensory world<br />

sensual<br />

of<br />

Truffles<br />



Oregon Truffle<br />

Festival<br />

JANUARY 20-22, 2017<br />


You don’t want to miss this!<br />

Dave Arnold and Harold McGee, two of the most<br />

influential food scientists in the world, will take<br />

you deep into the mystery of truffles.<br />

Choose one of two packages focused<br />

on the hunt or on preparation:<br />

Terroir of Truffles<br />

Culinary Adventurer<br />

JANUARY 26, 2017<br />


North American Truffle Dog Championship<br />

JANUARY 26-29, 2017<br />


Stellar chefs, truffles, wine, and dogs make the OTF<br />

in Eugene unique and wonderful. Choose one of these<br />

weekends designed to exceed your expectations:<br />

The Urban Forager, The Epicurious,<br />

The Gourmand, or The Truffle Growers Adventure<br />


www.oregontrufflefestival.com<br />

delicious<br />




Home Grown Chef<br />

Nuttin’ but Mutton<br />

written by Thor Erickson<br />

photography by Rob Kerr<br />

Braised Lamb Neck with<br />

Rosemary and<br />

Preserved Lemon<br />

Thor Erickson<br />


This is the mantra of Adam Danforth,<br />

the author of Butchering Poultry, Rabbit,<br />

Lamb, Goat, Pork, which won top <strong>2016</strong><br />

awards from the James Beard Foundation<br />

and the International Association of<br />

Culinary Professionals. Danforth extolls<br />

the virtues, from sustainability to taste, of<br />

using the meat of older animals, a rarity in<br />

the food industry today. He has recently<br />

worked with chefs such as José Andrés and<br />

Rick Bayless, who have begun featuring<br />

older cuts on the menus of their highprofile<br />

restaurants. Danforth, who is based<br />

in Ashland, travels the country educating<br />

everyone from chefs to ranchers to home<br />

cooks about the value of mature animals.<br />

After meeting Danforth at the IACP<br />

awards in Washington, D.C., last year<br />

and seeing his new book, I began using<br />

it as the textbook in my butchery class<br />

at the Cascade Culinary Institute in<br />

Bend. Danforth recently did a butchery<br />

demonstration of lamb and mutton at the<br />

Oregon State University Southern Oregon<br />

Research and Extension Center in Central<br />

Point, where I asked him to elaborate on<br />

why his philosophy is at the forefront of the<br />

culinary sphere today.<br />

What do you mean by “older meat?”<br />

AD: Americans are eating animals<br />

younger than ever. Beef is produced at a<br />

quickening pace with slaughter ages getting<br />

earlier and earlier. Pigs are slaughtered<br />

before a year old, as are lambs. Kid goat is<br />

about the only thing you will see on a menu.<br />

Older animals have working muscles that<br />

render more flavor, and have a higher yield.<br />

We should be supporting farmers more by<br />

consuming their older and cull animals.<br />

How is mutton different from lamb?<br />

AD: A lamb is a young sheep, usually<br />

slaughtered at or under <strong>12</strong> months old.<br />

Yearling mutton is <strong>12</strong>-18 months old, and<br />

mutton is anything older than that. There<br />

is a big misconception that mutton is tough<br />

and has a strong flavor due to its age.<br />

As Danforth butchered a 6-year-old<br />

sheep from a nearby ranch, he identified<br />

the cuts and promptly handed them to a<br />

chef, who seared the muscles in a cast-iron<br />

pan, dressed them with just enough salt to<br />

bring out the flavor, and passed slices of it<br />

to the fifty attendees to sample.<br />

The audience, composed of local chefs,<br />

ranchers, butchers and home cooks, was<br />

amazed with the flavor and tenderness of<br />

the mutton. One naysayer was shocked at<br />

the medium-rare temperature of the meat<br />

and swore by his own method of long,<br />

slow and well-done. “There are no rules,”<br />

Danforth replied. “If it’s tender mediumrare,<br />

it will be tender any way it is cooked.”<br />

After the demonstration, I told Danforth<br />

that my favorite cut of mutton or lamb is<br />

the neck. He agreed. “It’s the most-used<br />

group of muscles on an animal, therefore<br />

the most flavorful,” he said.<br />

On my drive back from Southern<br />

Oregon, all I could think about was picking<br />

up a mutton neck or two from my local<br />

butcher. Here’s how I prepare it.<br />

⅓ cup olive oil<br />

1 onion, fine dice<br />

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped<br />

1 anchovy fillet<br />

1½ tablespoons rosemary, minced<br />

1½ cups coarse sourdough<br />

breadcrumbs<br />

½ cup flat-leafed parsley leaves,<br />

chopped<br />

½ cup Parmesan cheese, finely grated<br />

1 preserved lemon, medium dice<br />

2 mutton or lamb necks, butterflied*<br />

⅓ cup olive oil<br />

3 cups chicken stock<br />

1 ½ cups white wine<br />

Heat half the olive oil in a frying pan over<br />

medium heat, add onion and garlic and<br />

stir occasionally until tender (5 minutes).<br />

Add anchovy and rosemary and stir<br />

occasionally until anchovy dissolves.<br />

Remove from heat, stir in mustard and<br />

set aside to cool. Add breadcrumbs,<br />

parsley, Parmesan and preserved lemon<br />

and season with kosher salt and black<br />

pepper to taste.<br />

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Place<br />

mutton or lamb on a clean work surface,<br />

place half the stuffing on the far edge,<br />

season to taste, roll to form a long<br />

cylinder, then tie at 2-inch intervals with<br />

kitchen twine. Continue until all meat and<br />

filling are rolled into two neat cylinders.<br />

Heat remaining oil in a large frying pan<br />

over high heat. Add mutton necks one<br />

at a time and cook, turning occasionally,<br />

until brown. Transfer to holding pan and<br />

repeat with remaining meat. Add wine<br />

and then stock to frying pan along with<br />

all of the necks, cover with a lid or foil,<br />

and simmer over medium heat. Place<br />

entire pan in a pre-heated 325-degree<br />

oven until mutton is tender and cooked<br />

through, about 2 ½ to 3 hours. Remove<br />

from the oven and let rest in the pan for<br />

about 15 minutes. Cut off the twine and<br />

cut the necks crosswise into 1- to 2-inch<br />

slices. Drizzle the pan juices over the<br />

mutton after it is on the plate. Serve with<br />

garlic mashed potatoes.<br />

*Butterflied mutton or lamb neck can be<br />

special ordered from your butcher.<br />

40 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong>

Organic & gluten free.<br />

locally produced.<br />

family company.<br />

sustainable.<br />

Your holiday leftovers LOVE Suzie's!

home + design<br />

Oregon<br />

Recipes<br />

Shepherd’s pie<br />

ASHLAND/Smithfields Pub & Pies<br />

Neil Clooney<br />

5 pounds Umpqua Valley<br />

ground lamb<br />

3 cups stock vegetables<br />

(onions, carrots, celery, leek,<br />

uniformly diced)<br />

2 cups frozen green peas<br />

2 tablespoons rosemary, chopped<br />

2 tablespoons thyme, chopped<br />

3 ounces tomato paste<br />

¼ cup Worcestershire sauce<br />

2 cups chicken stock<br />

¼ cup corn starch<br />

Salt and pepper to taste<br />

Mashed potatoes<br />

Heat a small amount of oil in thickbottomed<br />

pan, add lamb and cook until<br />

it’s broken up and evenly cooked. Place in<br />

a colander in a bowl to drain fat.<br />

Add a touch more oil and sauté off stock<br />

vegetables for a couple minutes. Add<br />

the lamb, tomato paste, Worcestershire,<br />

chicken stock and herbs. Mix well and<br />

simmer over low heat for 10 minutes to<br />

meld the flavors.<br />

Make a slurry with the corn starch and<br />

add to lamb mix to tighten up the sauce.<br />

Cook for a couple more minutes. Season<br />

to taste, transfer to a container and mix in<br />

the frozen peas.<br />

Spoon the mix into an ovenware dish,<br />

fill just over halfway and chill.<br />

Next, make your favorite mashed<br />

potato recipe. Place the mash on top of<br />

your lamb mix, spreading evenly. You can<br />

also add cheese or breadcrumbs on top<br />

at this point.<br />

Bake in oven at 375 degrees for 15 to<br />

20 minutes or until potatoes are nicely<br />

browned.<br />

Weeknight Lamb "Bolognese"<br />

SALEM/ Rafns’ Restaurant<br />

Nate Rafn<br />

1 pound ground lamb<br />

3 tablespoons olive oil<br />

1 cup yellow onion, diced to a ¼ inch<br />

1 cup carrots, diced to a ¼ inch<br />

1 cup celery, diced to a ¼ inch<br />

1 teaspoon granulated garlic<br />

½ teaspoon dried basil leaves<br />

½ teaspoon table salt<br />

¼ teaspoon ground oregano<br />

¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg<br />

¼ teaspoon ground sage<br />

¼ teaspoon ground rosemary<br />

⅛ teaspoon chili flakes<br />

⅛ teaspoon ground black pepper<br />

1 tablespoon red wine<br />

2 15-ounce cans organic tomato sauce<br />

¼ cup heavy cream<br />

16 ounces dry pasta, your favorite shape<br />

Brindisi cheese<br />

In an 8-quart sauce pot, combine olive oil, onion,<br />

carrot, and celery. Sauté the vegetables, stirring<br />

frequently, until onions just begin to soften. Mix<br />

herbs, spices, and salt in a small bowl. Add spice<br />

mixture to the vegetables and continue cooking<br />

for about half a minute, stirring constantly.<br />

Remove the pot from the heat.<br />

Crumble the ground lamb into the pot and<br />

return to the heat. Once the meat is browned,<br />

pour the red wine, tomato sauce, and cream into<br />

the pot. Gently simmer, uncovered, until carrots<br />

are tender.<br />

Meanwhile, cook pasta according to<br />

manufacturer's directions. Drain thoroughly and<br />

keep warm.<br />

Arrange pasta in individual bowls and pour<br />

a generous amount of the lamb sauce over<br />

the top. Garnish with freshly grated Brindisi<br />

(aged fontina) from Willamette Valley Cheese<br />

Company. Serve and enjoy!<br />

Grilled Lamb Leg Steaks with<br />

Balsamic-Braised Figs<br />

PORTLAND/ The Country Cat<br />

Adam and Jackie Sappington with<br />

Ashley Gartland<br />


6 juniper berries, crushed<br />

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil<br />

3 teaspoons finely chopped fresh thyme<br />

4 (1/2-inch-thick) lamb leg steaks<br />

(about 2 pounds)<br />

Kosher salt<br />


½ cup balsamic vinegar<br />

½ cup fruity red wine, such as pinot noir<br />

6 whole black peppercorns<br />

8 fresh black Mission figs<br />

In a large bowl, combine the juniper berries, oil and<br />

1 ½ teaspoons of thyme. Season the lamb steaks<br />

with salt. Coat the lamb steaks generously with the<br />

juniper berry mixture on both sides, leaving them<br />

in the bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and<br />

refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to overnight.<br />

Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, combine<br />

the vinegar, wine, remaining 1 ½ teaspoons thyme,<br />

and the peppercorns and simmer over low heat<br />

until reduced by half, about 30 minutes. Strain<br />

the balsamic reduction into a bowl to remove the<br />

peppercorns and set aside.<br />

When the mixture is nearly reduced, arrange<br />

a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the<br />

oven to 350 degrees. Place the figs in a small<br />

baking pan and pour the balsamic reduction over<br />

the figs. Bake the figs for 25 minutes or until they<br />

are soft to the touch and the reduction is syrupy.<br />

Turn the oven off and let the figs rest in the oven<br />

until ready to serve.<br />

Meanwhile, when the lamb steaks are ready, line a<br />

large baking sheet with parchment paper. Remove<br />

the lamb steaks from the refrigerator, transfer to<br />

the prepared baking sheet, and let rest until they<br />

come up to room temperature, about 45 minutes.<br />

Prepare a medium-hot fire in a charcoal grill.<br />

Arrange the lamb steaks on the grill rack over<br />

direct heat, cover, and grill until they are mediumrare<br />

and start to sweat and caramelize on the<br />

sides, about 5 minutes per side. Transfer the lamb<br />

steaks to a wire rack to rest for 5 minutes.<br />

Arrange the lamb steaks on a large serving platter.<br />

Spoon the figs and sauce over the top and serve.<br />

42 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong>

Warm Up Your Winter<br />

<strong>1859</strong> wine club<br />

Celebrate the season<br />

with crat Oregon wines<br />

delivered to your door.<br />


home + design<br />

Home Grown<br />

The owners of a biodynamic winery build a<br />

“passive house” that embodies their ideals<br />

written by Melissa Dalton<br />

photography by Claire Thorington<br />

The Steeles' passive house at Cowhorn Vineyard.<br />

44 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong>

home + design<br />

LEFT Brienne Wasmer, the Steeles' interior designer, in<br />

kitchen. ABOVE Another view of the kitchen.<br />

FOR MANY, THE PROSPECT of buying<br />

an abandoned farm would be daunting.<br />

But for Bill and Barbara Steele, finding<br />

such a property was the realization of a<br />

longstanding dream. In 2002, the couple<br />

decided to trade careers in the Bay Area<br />

financial sector for farm life in Oregon.<br />

After living as “backyard farmers” for<br />

decades, they just needed the right<br />

property to make the leap to a bigger<br />

plot. They found it outside Jacksonville,<br />

complete with a 1937 farmhouse on 117<br />

acres. On their first visit, they were sold<br />

before even making it up the driveway.<br />

“Bill had me pull over to the side of the<br />

road where there was an old, brokendown<br />

cattle fence,” Barbara Steele said.<br />

“And he said, ‘This is it.’”<br />

For two years, the couple cleared the<br />

land and improved the soil health. They<br />

wanted to certify the farm as biodynamic,<br />

“the gold standard of farming,” Steele<br />

said. Biodynamic agriculture is a holistic<br />

approach that eschews all herbicides,<br />

pesticides, and imported fertilizers,<br />

striving instead to turn the land into a selfsupporting<br />

ecosystem that thrives with<br />

biodiversity. In 2005, the Steeles planted<br />

their first grapes, followed by asparagus,<br />

hazelnuts and cherries. Although they<br />

hadn’t planned to start a vineyard, the<br />

land proved ripe for it. “When the wine<br />

turned out to be the quality that it is, that<br />

took us in a different direction,” Steele<br />

said. In 2006, they introduced forty cases<br />

of their first biodynamic vintage under the<br />

Cowhorn Vineyard label, to rave reviews.<br />

While the farm and vineyard grew<br />

successfully, their living situation was<br />

less ideal. For years, the couple and their<br />

four dogs crammed into the farmhouse’s<br />

300-square-foot attic. Their administrative<br />

office was on the floor below, which meant<br />

constant reminders of the workday. “When<br />

you work where you live, sometimes you<br />

can’t shut off,” Steele said. By the summer of<br />

2013, they decided it was time for a muchneeded<br />

retreat.<br />

In keeping with their farming practices,<br />

the couple wanted to build their new<br />

home in a sustainable way. They consulted<br />

with Stephen Aiguier, founder of Green<br />

Hammer, a Portland design-build outfit<br />

specializing in all forms of eco-building,<br />

and Eugene architect Jan Fillinger. “The<br />

most important thing for them was to<br />

live as lightly on the land as possible,”<br />

Aiguier said. “We told them that the<br />

largest impact a building has over its life<br />

is the energy usage.” Aiguier and Fillinger<br />

suggested the Steeles build a passive<br />

house, which appealed to the couple both<br />

for its extreme energy efficiency and its<br />

more intangible qualities. “We had been<br />

living in an office, with computer servers<br />

and printers and faxes and telephones,”<br />

Steele said. “Jan explained that a<br />

passive house is so efficient, and<br />

it doesn’t need a lot of the stuff<br />

DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 45

home + design<br />

FROM LEFT One of the outdoor spaces on the Steeles' 117-acre<br />

property. A bathroom in the Steeles' passive house.<br />

that a regular house has, so it’s silent. That<br />

captivated me.”<br />

The passive house concept originated<br />

in Germany in the late 1980s and has<br />

only recently gained traction stateside.<br />

Nationally, there are around 1<strong>12</strong> singlefamily<br />

homes certified as passive houses—<br />

eight in Oregon—and three dozen more<br />

in pre-certification across the U.S. When<br />

comparing a conventional code-compliant<br />

home to a passive house, a useful analogy<br />

is a coffee maker versus a thermos. The<br />

machine requires a constant, active energy<br />

source to heat its brew, much like a typical<br />

home needs a furnace and air conditioner to<br />

control interior temperatures. In contrast, a<br />

thermos maintains temperatures passively<br />

via superior insulating properties, much<br />

like passive houses. “The beauty of (a)<br />

passive house is that you’re reducing the<br />

need for electricity so much because the<br />

building is so efficient that it hardly needs<br />

much more additional power,” Fillinger said.<br />

According to the Passive House Institute,<br />

a passive house consumes 86 percent less<br />

energy for heating compared to traditional<br />

construction. “Passive house is like Energy<br />

Star on steroids,” Aiguier said, referring to a<br />

national energy efficiency standard.<br />

In order to achieve such savings, sealing<br />

the building envelope is crucial, as was the<br />

case for the Steele residence. While the<br />

ideal passive house is essentially a southfacing<br />

cube, Aiguier said, the Steele home<br />

is an elongated, single-level because the<br />

couple planned to age in place. The more<br />

stretched out a building gets, with an<br />

increase of wall area over floor area, the<br />

more potential for heat loss.<br />

Still, the team found solutions. The<br />

super-insulated walls, floor, and ceiling<br />

are three to four times thicker than<br />

what’s seen in conventional buildings.<br />

Quadruple-paned windows, as opposed<br />

to single- or double-paned, preserve<br />

the airtight interior, while moderating<br />

heat gains from the sun. A heat recovery<br />

ventilation system sustains air quality<br />

via frequent exchange of filtered indoor<br />

and outdoor air, and keeps the home<br />

comfortable no matter the season.<br />

Regarding the house’s design, Fillinger’s<br />

brief from the work-harried couple was<br />

straightforward—separate the public<br />

spaces from the private zones. He clustered<br />

the kitchen, living, and dining rooms<br />

together as one great room, accented with<br />

a soaring vaulted ceiling and windows that<br />

frame vineyard views. A long corridor, the<br />

home’s “spine,” then links that area with<br />

the couple’s master suite. “That spine was<br />

symbolically important,” Fillinger said. “It<br />

really was the piece that tied the whole<br />

body of the house together.”<br />

Cowhorn being a working farm, the<br />

house needed to stand up to the rigors<br />

of daily life. A utility room handles<br />

muddy boots, dirty clothes and winestained<br />

hands. Then Brienne Wasmer,<br />

interior designer at 2Yoke Design,<br />

selected finishes that were tough, as<br />

well as organic, in order to warm up the<br />

cool black and white palette. Large-scale<br />

black limestone flooring offers a tumbled<br />

texture underfoot, while white Corian<br />

counters deliver crisp contrast. Iridescent<br />

metallic tiles in the dining room lend a<br />

shimmering backdrop to display wines.<br />

Bespoke walnut cabinetry knits the entire<br />

tableau together.<br />

Today, the Steeles’ new home is far<br />

removed from their former office clatter.<br />

“When you close the doors in this house,<br />

you don’t hear any electricity. You hear<br />

nothing,” Steele said. Much to the couple’s<br />

delight, they now find themselves enjoying a<br />

different set of sounds. “When we open the<br />

windows at night, all we hear is nature,” she<br />

said. “It’s so peaceful either way.”<br />

46 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong>

©<strong>2016</strong> California Closet Company, Inc. All rights reserved. Each franchise independently owned and operated. 203209<br />

Experience a California Closets system custom designed specifically for you and the way you live.<br />

Visit us online today to arrange for a complimentary in-home design consultation.<br />

503.885.8211 californiaclosets.com<br />

PORTLAND <strong>12</strong>35 W. Burnside St. TUALATIN 18862 SW Teton Ave. BEND 937 Newport Ave.

home + design<br />

Energy-Saving Products<br />



Alex Boetzel, the chief operations officer at<br />

Green Hammer, is well-versed in all types<br />

of green building standards, from LEED<br />

to Earth Advantage to Passive House.<br />

(He worked as a consultant on the Steele<br />

home.) He offered tips for reducing energy<br />

consumption at home.<br />


Do you have an old house with single-paned<br />

windows? Although they bring a lot of character<br />

to historic homes, old windows can be a source<br />

of heat loss, meaning the furnace has to work<br />

extra hard to do its job. Manufactured by a<br />

Portland company, Indow window inserts can<br />

be custom made to your window specs, and<br />

provide improved insulation for energy savings<br />

of up to 20 percent.<br />

indowwindows.com<br />



The Kill A Watt Electricity Monitor<br />

assesses how much energy your<br />

appliances actually use. Cut down<br />

on energy bills by learning just how<br />

much it’s costing you to keep that<br />

toaster and printer plugged in all the<br />

time. $18 at The Home Depot.<br />


It’s a free assessment tool on the Energy<br />

Trust of Oregon’s website (energytrust.org).<br />

It takes about five minutes and participants<br />

receive a customized action plan for<br />

energy reduction in their homes. This<br />

might include a range of suggestions, from<br />

installing a smart thermostat to upgrading<br />

wall insulation. “This gives you an order<br />

of magnitude for improving your house,”<br />

Boetzel said. You can decide what to tackle<br />

yourself or use the site to connect with a<br />

qualified contractor.<br />


“You can audit your own energy use,”<br />

Boetzel said. He recommends doing so with<br />

an electricity usage monitor like the Kill A<br />

Watt (see products) to assess how your<br />

appliances measure up. These devices are<br />

also available for checkout via local libraries<br />

across the state, thanks to Energy Trust.<br />


“There’s really no reason to have<br />

incandescent bulbs anymore,” Boetzel said.<br />

“All your light bulbs should be CFLs or<br />

LEDs.” Both types use much less energy,<br />

about 75 percent to 85 percent less, and last<br />

years longer than traditional incandescent<br />

bulbs. Instead of choosing bulbs for wattage,<br />

check lumens for brightness and Kelvin<br />

numbers for tonal quality.<br />


“People buy a new refrigerator and save the<br />

old one, forgetting that the refrigerator from<br />

the '70s uses four or five times the energy,”<br />

Boetzel said. Removing it saves up to $150<br />

a year in energy costs. Energy Trust will pick<br />

it up for free from your home and offers a<br />

$30 cash incentive to do so.<br />

48 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong>

Mind + Body<br />

Indulgent Nourishment<br />

written by Andes Hruby<br />

photography by Rob Kerr<br />

Elyse Kopecky<br />

Author, nutrition coach<br />

and whole-foods chef<br />

Age: 34<br />

Born: Rochester, New York<br />

Residence: Bend<br />


Running or Hiking<br />

• Three or four times per week<br />

• A weekend trail run adventure<br />

from Trail Running Bend, by<br />

Lucas Alberg<br />

• Early morning run at Shevlin Park<br />

• Stroller Moms’ Thursday run<br />

at FootZone<br />

Cycling<br />

• Errands on her bike with her<br />

daughter on the back<br />

Yoga<br />

• 15 minutes of easy yoga<br />

• 60-minute Vinyasa class one or<br />

two times a week<br />

IN HIGH SCHOOL, Elyse Kopecky took up<br />

the sport many of us dreaded. Cross country<br />

has no half time, no fouls and no substitutions.<br />

Kopecky is a former state champion in the 1-<br />

and 2-mile race as well as the 5K. Born and<br />

raised in the snowbelt of Rochester, N.Y.,<br />

she moved to North Carolina in the late ’90s<br />

and shed her layers for a spot on a southern<br />

college cross-country team.<br />

As a runner from 2000 to 2004 at the<br />

University of North Carolina, she met Shalane<br />

Flanagan, a four-time Olympian, American<br />

record holder, and world-class marathoner.<br />

The longtime friends co-wrote Run Fast Eat<br />

Slow: Nourishing Recipes for Athletes (Rodale<br />

Books). Their goal is to help athletes eat<br />

for the long run and learn to embrace what<br />

Kopecky calls “indulgent nourishment.”<br />

Kopecky was always opposed to dieting, but<br />

her perception of health was askew. Teams<br />

and coaches at the time believed low fat was<br />

healthier. Skim-milk yogurt, skinless chicken<br />

breast, and lettuce does nothing to satiate the<br />

body or soul. Kopecky also now attributes her<br />

Elyse Kopecky balances her family life and passion for<br />

food with trail runs and standup paddling.<br />

college injuries and athletic amenorrhea—the<br />

absence of menstruation—to not consuming<br />

enough healthy fats.<br />

Despite a solid career at Nike, she was<br />

offered an intriguing job abroad to work<br />

in marketing for a video game company. It<br />

wound up being her life-changing gift.<br />

“In Switzerland, the homes have tiny<br />

refrigerators,” she said. “I couldn’t resist the<br />

cheese, grass-fed beef, and markets filled with<br />

fresh baguettes and local produce. My husband<br />

and I took cooking classes across Europe.”<br />

She did not pack on the pounds but felt<br />

stronger, healthier and happier than ever.<br />

Kopecky left marketing to study nutrition.<br />

After graduating from the Natural Gourmet<br />

Institute for Health and Culinary Arts in<br />

New York City, she reunited with Flanagan<br />

in Portland over a home-cooked meal and<br />

the idea for Run Fast Eat Slow was born.<br />

Kopecky’s newfound, eat-more-fat knowledge<br />

helped her give birth to a healthy baby girl<br />

and go on to write her first cookbook, which<br />

became a New York Times bestseller.<br />


Good fat! Pass the olive oil, creamy<br />

butter, ripe avocados, and it’s a<br />

good start. Add grass-fed beef,<br />

free-range chicken, eggs, cream,<br />

local fruits and vegetables, soak the<br />

beans, slow cook the grains and<br />

stay within season.<br />


• Being present while playing with<br />

my 2-year-old<br />

• Cooking with friend and<br />

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Downtown Bend and NorthWest<br />

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artist in residence<br />

Tall, Tall Trees<br />

Portland’s Matt Wagner Puts a Modern Shine on<br />

the City of Light with His Latest Book<br />

written by Gina Williams<br />

photography by Shauna Intelisano<br />

52 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong>

artist in residence<br />

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Longtime Portland resident Matt Wagner, curator and author of the book series The<br />

Tall Trees, is photographed near his gallery in Old Town Portland where he has curated for 20 years. The books<br />

reveal artists from Tokyo, Paris and Portland and their favorite spots in the city.<br />

MATT WAGNER’S SUMPTUOUS new book, Tall Trees of<br />

Paris, will leave you smitten with the working artists of Paris and<br />

falling head over heels for the City of Light, even if you’ve been<br />

there many times.<br />

Wagner is owner of Portland’s Hellion Gallery, curator of art<br />

exhibitions in Tokyo, San Diego, Portland and Paris and cofounder<br />

of Forest for the Trees, a Portland nonprofit public mural<br />

project. He authored Tall Trees as the third in a series of books<br />

that highlight artists within a place and vice versa. The collection<br />

also includes Tall Trees of Tokyo and Tall Trees of Portland.<br />

Although he credits studying art in Paris as a formative<br />

entry into his art career, the author said he was never overly<br />

enamored with the city itself. “I went back to fall in love with it,”<br />

Wagner said. That’s exactly what happened as he dove into the<br />

contemporary art scene there and got to know the artists who, in<br />

turn, introduced him to their Paris.<br />

“Art is about people,” Wagner said, adding that his books are more<br />

about people than art and that camaraderie is truly the heartbeat of<br />

the art world. “Any city with a population of artists is a place where<br />

people are trying to find community and support,” he said.<br />

For Wagner, one of the most rewarding aspects of the Tall<br />

Trees series and the new book is that the artists featured not only<br />

make connections with one another through their involvement,<br />

but learn more about their own cities in the process.<br />

A Movable Feast<br />

The expertly curated and beautifully printed hardbound<br />

bilingual book published by Portland’s Overcup Press triples as a<br />

contemporary art collection, portable gallery and insider’s travel<br />

guide. The work of each artist is shown alongside handwritten and<br />

translated questionnaires detailing each artist’s favorite restaurants,<br />

bars, museums and preferred methods of transportation, among<br />

other insights into Parisian culture and life.<br />

Pat McDonald, publisher of Overcup Press, said Wagner began<br />

the original concept for Tall Trees with the Tokyo book and the<br />

series has been refined over subsequent editions.<br />

“[Wagner] had been showing Japanese artists in his gallery for<br />

a long time, which is unique in itself,” McDonald said. “But as is<br />

the case with galleries, once the show is over, the art all goes into<br />

private collections and you never see it again.”<br />

Wagner said he purposely avoided asking art questions in the<br />

survey to let the art speak for itself while giving the artists space<br />

to introduce readers to themselves and their city. The result is a<br />

stunning reveal into the personalities and tastes of working<br />

artists who call Paris home.<br />

DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 53

“Paris is good at art.<br />

Good enough that<br />

people have stopped<br />

noticing and just take<br />

it for granted.”<br />

—Matt Wagner<br />

Longtime Portland resident Matt Wagner is photographed holding<br />

a piece from local artist AJ Fosik’s collection.<br />

Why Paris?<br />

“Paris is good at art,” Wagner wrote in the<br />

book’s introduction. “Good enough that<br />

people have stopped noticing and just take it<br />

for granted.”<br />

He said he wanted to showcase the work<br />

of artists who take on the pressure of making<br />

their way in the foundation of modern art with<br />

a “casual, positive air” and without worrying<br />

excessively about what other people are doing.<br />

As he put the book together, Wagner<br />

said he became more appreciative of these<br />

“contemporary artists trying to navigate through<br />

the luggage of history” —and succeeding.<br />

Insider’s Guide<br />

Wagner’s ability to speak the language of art with<br />

working artists “allows him to access the culture<br />

in a way that most people don’t,” McDonald said.<br />

“What Matt’s doing with the books is sharing<br />

some of that access with the reader.”<br />

In the book, the author also reveals several of<br />

his favorite Parisian haunts. One of his favorite<br />

bars, for example, is Le Mary Celeste, 3rd<br />

Arrondissement, for its gooseneck barnacles,<br />

deviled eggs, cocktails and rosé. If he were in<br />

Paris right now, he said, he’d be planning a picnic<br />

with friends on Canal de l’Ourcq.<br />

For the rest of Wagner’s insights and those<br />

of the featured artists, treat yourself to a copy.<br />

Tall Trees of Paris ($49) is widely available<br />

online as well as locally in Portland at<br />

independent bookstores such as Broadway<br />

Books, Annie Bloom Books, Reading Frenzy,<br />

Powell’s and through Overcup Press.<br />

Overcup Press<br />

Books that Thrive<br />

For Overcup Press, an independent<br />

Portland book publisher, the Tall Trees<br />

series is now a kind of calling card.<br />

“If you like high-quality, super-engaging<br />

books with a strong visual element and<br />

learning about things, you are our ideal<br />

reader,” publisher Pat McDonald said.<br />

The press focuses on art, travel, design,<br />

epicurean and picture books.<br />

For more information about Overcup<br />

Press go to overcupbooks.com.<br />

54 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong>

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STARTUP 58<br />

WHAT’S GOING UP 60<br />


(pg. 64)<br />

Kevin Doner at Chimps Inc..<br />



startup<br />

Diagnosing Diseases – In Seconds<br />

Hemex Health has solutions<br />

for developing countries<br />

written by Sheila G. Miller<br />

photography by Tim LaBarge<br />

DO YOU HAVE MALARIA? A drop of blood and one minute<br />

is all Hemex Health needs to tell you the answer. With more<br />

than three billion people in 95 countries at risk of contracting<br />

malaria, that minute could make all the difference.<br />

“That’s what we need in the developing world,” said Hemex<br />

co-founder and CEO Patti White. “We need to get that result<br />

right away, because you might not find (the patient) again if you<br />

need to tell them results.”<br />

Straight out of graduate school at University of Pennsylvania’s<br />

Wharton School of Business, White went to Hewlett Packard,<br />

where she worked to develop the early personal computers.<br />

“Those were the fun years, when personal computers were<br />

really changing the world,” she said. “Then it wasn’t that way<br />

by the ’90s, so I was really looking for something that gave you<br />

that big feeling, that you were really changing people’s lives with<br />

technology.”<br />

In 1995, White moved to Oregon to work in HP’s cardiology<br />

division. There she met Peter Galen, with<br />

whom she joined forces in 1997 to start<br />

Inovise Medical, which developed heart<br />

sound technology. They later worked<br />

together at a vision diagnostics company.<br />

In 2015, the pair decided it was time<br />

for another startup. “We must be crazy<br />

or something,” White said. “But a number<br />

of products we’ve done … over the years<br />

have had an impact in the underserved<br />

parts of the world. It is really exciting to<br />

go to a place like China or India and see the products you’ve<br />

developed being used.”<br />

With that inspiration, Hemex was born. White and Galen<br />

looked for technology that had already been invented but<br />

not developed for use. “We were not trying to start with an<br />

invention. We wanted to be more focused on development.”<br />

The pair visited more than 20 universities and research<br />

centers looking at technology portfolios, eventually identifying<br />

two technologies developed at Case Western Reserve University<br />

in Cleveland that they knew could have an impact. They began<br />

to devise a quick, accurate diagnostic device that is easy to use<br />

in the field.<br />

“We also felt that it solved really big, unmet needs,” she said.<br />

“These products really do solve a real problem that nothing else<br />

does today. … And we thought we could raise money to fund<br />

the development.”<br />

As it stands, malaria is currently diagnosed in one of two<br />

ways: microscopy (putting a drop of blood on a slide and having<br />

58 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong><br />

“These products really do<br />

solve a real problem that<br />

nothing else does today.”<br />

- Patti White,<br />

Hemex co-founder and CEO<br />

a trained expert examine the blood) or rapid diagnostic tests<br />

(which look and work much like pregnancy tests, but with<br />

blood instead of urine). Microscopy requires electricity and<br />

can take thirty to sixty minutes per person. It also depends on<br />

a diagnostician to correctly read the blood. RDTs take twenty<br />

minutes. Both tests generally miss malaria when it’s in the body<br />

in low levels.<br />

By contrast, Hemex’s device takes one minute per blood<br />

sample. It can find the disease lingering in the blood at low<br />

levels, and the device can fit in the palms of your hands. “In an<br />

area where you’re trying to eliminate malaria, you might have<br />

to test a whole village of people,” White said. “A one-minute,<br />

accurate test is a huge advantage.”<br />

The device can also test for sickle cell disease, an inherited<br />

red blood cell disorder. Eighty percent of those who carry the<br />

trait live in the developing world. In the United States, every<br />

newborn is tested for the disease. In developing countries,<br />

there’s no affordable or accessible test for<br />

the disease. Half of those who have the<br />

disease die by age 5. Studies show that<br />

early diagnosis and low-cost treatments<br />

like penicillin and a pneumonia vaccine<br />

can prevent 70 percent of those deaths.<br />

Hemex’s device can test for sickle cell<br />

disease and the trait in eight minutes.<br />

The device is the same, and a user puts<br />

in cartridges the size of USB sticks to<br />

test for different disorders. Eventually<br />

White would like to expand the number of diseases the device<br />

can diagnose, but, for now, Hemex is starting with malaria and<br />

sickle cell disease.<br />

In October, the Bend Venture Conference awarded $50,000 to<br />

the company in its social impact competition. The U.S. Patent and<br />

Trademark Office honored the university’s malarial detection<br />

technology with one of its four Patents for Humanity Award.<br />

The product prototype has been tested. Now Hemex is<br />

raising money, developing more prototypes and working on a<br />

final design. White said the company is about one-and-a-half to<br />

two years away from mass-producing the device.<br />

“A lot of times, people think that to do good for the world you<br />

can’t build a viable company, and I think that’s a really old way of<br />

thinking,” White said. “There’s a huge number of people who need<br />

these technologies and a lot of people who can afford to pay for it<br />

and can afford to fund it. … You can have a great business model<br />

and build great products that help the world.”<br />

Patti White, CEO of Hemex Health, talks to Martin Rockwell,<br />

electrical engineering manager at Andrews-Cooper, about a<br />

prototype of the diagnostic equipment.

startup<br />

DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 59

what’s going up?<br />

University Expansions<br />

written by Kevin Max<br />

photography by Rob Kerr<br />

OSU-Cascades opened the first of its three buildings, Tykeson Hall, in September.<br />

OSU-Cascades opens<br />

Oregon State University’s new Cascades<br />

Campus debuted in Bend in September.<br />

The 10-acre campus features Tykeson<br />

Hall, an academic building, as well as a<br />

still-under-construction residence hall<br />

and dining hall. The university has also<br />

purchased an adjacent 46 acres that can<br />

be used for a future expansion.<br />

University of Oregon $500 Million<br />

Gift for Science Campus<br />

Scientific dreams will soon become reality<br />

at University of Oregon with a $500<br />

million gift from Phil and Penny Knight.<br />

The Knight Campus for Accelerating<br />

Scientific Impact, announced in October,<br />

is expected to cost more than $1 billion,<br />

upon completion have a full-time research<br />

staff of 300, support 750 jobs and include<br />

three 70,000-square-foot buildings, research<br />

centers, labs and prototyping tools.<br />

The university said it would work with<br />

donors to raise the other $500 million for<br />

the science complex. According to UO<br />

President Michael Schill, this gift from the<br />

Knights is the largest donation to a public<br />

flagship university in the nation’s history.<br />



5,000: the number of students<br />

OSU-Cascades hopes to serve<br />

by 2025.<br />

2001: the year OSU-Cascades<br />

opened on Central Oregon<br />

Community College’s campus,<br />

with 360 students.<br />

$7.96 million: the amount<br />

OSU-Cascades paid for the<br />

10-acre campus.<br />

60 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong>



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What I’m working on<br />

Beth Esponnette<br />

Founder of unspun and professor<br />

of product design<br />

interview by Ben McBee<br />

photography by Thomas Boyd<br />

Esponette’s tools of the trade.<br />

Beth Esponette, a professor at UO, works with 3D printing<br />

technology to reduce manufacturing waste.<br />

Think about the clothes you’re wearing. How much of the material<br />

used to make them actually ended up on the factory floor as excess,<br />

cast aside and thrown away? Beth Esponnette, a Bay Area entrepreneur<br />

turned University of Oregon professor, is tackling wasteful clothing<br />

manufacturing practices with research that incorporates weaving with<br />

3D printing. Originally from Maine, Esponnette earned her MFA at<br />

Stanford University and quickly set to work on her startup, unspun, with<br />

the mission of modernizing what she considers an outdated industry<br />

standard. She now teaches in UO’s Product Design program while<br />

continuing to develop her company.<br />

3D printing has led to innovations<br />

in many fields. How can the<br />

technology revolutionize traditional<br />

clothing production?<br />

Traditional clothing manufacturing is<br />

done with a subtractive process. In order<br />

to make a two-dimensional fabric into<br />

the piece of clothing that you want, you<br />

need to cut it apart, which damages it,<br />

and then you need to re-adhere it back<br />

together with stitching. There is a lot of<br />

waste involved in the cutting part and<br />

seams are problematic because that’s<br />

where things break apart or let water in.<br />

A way to make manufacturing additive is<br />

to basically skip the cutting and sewing<br />

step, so you’re no longer using the fabric<br />

stage. We’re trying to go straight from<br />

yarn, into the final product, so that you<br />

have no waste.<br />

What are the functional benefits of<br />

3D-printed clothes?<br />

In general, 3D-printed clothing is going<br />

to be a lot stronger because there are no<br />

breakage points, which are the places<br />

where the products fail, essentially. Also<br />

the thing that consumers usually care<br />

most about is the comfort, and seams are<br />

where people feel discomfort because it’s<br />

extra material that will chafe against their<br />

skin, or add extra weight and bulk that<br />

they don’t want.<br />

3D printing also provides the opportunity<br />

to create customized products, because<br />

you’re boiling all these processes down into<br />

one step, essentially. You don’t necessarily<br />

need humans in the equation either.<br />

When you break down something into<br />

machine code, you can think about having<br />

measurements and data straight from your<br />

consumer, that (you) can then put into this<br />

machine and create a garment right on<br />

the spot. Every product that comes off the<br />

printer can be altered in some way. It would<br />

be the same with this kind of clothing.<br />

Oregon prides itself on being green<br />

and efficient with its resources. Has<br />

moving here inspired you in any way?<br />

It has strengthened my desire to help fix<br />

some of the problems in manufacturing.<br />

I live near Hendricks Park in Eugene,<br />

and it’s beautiful and green. My house is<br />

surrounded by trees, and it reminds me of<br />

where I grew up in Maine. With bad news<br />

every day, more and more proof that global<br />

warming is an issue, being around Oregon<br />

and seeing that we still have beauty here to<br />

save has been very inspirational.<br />

62 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong>

Visit Your Local Showroom Today<br />

Oregon<br />

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my workspace<br />

Chimps Inc.<br />

Giving apes a relaxing retirement<br />

written by Lindsay McWilliams<br />

photography by Ben McBee<br />

Kevin Doner has been a caretaker for two years at<br />

Chimps Inc., Oregon’s only chimpanzee sanctuary,<br />

located near Bend. “The best part is just spending<br />

every day with an amazing animal like a chimp. Even<br />

if you’re having a bad day, they’ll just make you laugh<br />

and everything’s alright.”<br />

Chimps that were once performers,<br />

zoo animals or kept as pets are sent<br />

here to retire in peace and dignity.<br />

Raised in captivity, many are confused<br />

about who they are, resulting in<br />

stereotypical behaviors like pacing<br />

and self-injury. Staff members do their<br />

best to keep the chimps from getting<br />

bored, providing them with new<br />

activities for enrichment each day.<br />

Knowing the chimps’ personalities and<br />

social groupings is extremely important to<br />

Doner’s work—especially knowing where<br />

each chimp sits in the social hierarchy.<br />

64 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong>


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game changer<br />

Artist Victor Maldonado<br />

Depicting the Immigrant Experience<br />

with Humor and Cultural Poignancy<br />

written by Lee Lewis Husk<br />

photography by Joni Kabana<br />

PNCA instructor and artist Victor Maldonado at his art installation at the MAX<br />

station at the corner of Lombard and N. Interstate Blvd. in Portland.<br />

AS HE PULLS THE MASK over his face,<br />

artist Victor Maldonado mutates into the<br />

Blue Demon, a Mexican lucha libre—<br />

freedom fighter. “It’s the double identity of<br />

being insiders and outsiders, knowing the<br />

script but not all the rules in the ring,” he said,<br />

referring to his Mexican birth, immigration<br />

and ultimately, American citizenship.<br />

The 40-year-old’s work includes<br />

numerous photographs of himself as<br />

MadMex, an alter-ego embodiment of the<br />

Latino experience in the United States. In<br />

one photo, Maldonado lies on the beach,<br />

wearing the lucha mask while sunbathing.<br />

Definitely not a stereotypical image of a<br />

farmworker, it is funny and then evocative.<br />

Why is that man wearing a mask? What<br />

does it mean?<br />

“The mask symbolizes the struggle<br />

between two forces—English versus<br />

Spanish, U.S. culture versus Mexican<br />

culture, white-collar versus farmworker,” said<br />

Charles Froelick, owner of Froelick Gallery<br />

in Portland, which represents Maldonado.<br />

When worn in a Mexican wrestling ring,<br />

the masks theatrically show the disparity<br />

between two sides—good and evil, comedy<br />

and tragedy, he said.<br />

The son of field workers in California’s<br />

Central Valley, Maldonado has found<br />

expression through many art forms, including<br />

painting, sculpture, photography and creative<br />

writing. He graduated from the California<br />

College of Art in 2000, moved to Portland<br />

in 2001 and earned an MFA in painting and<br />

drawing from the School of the Art Institute<br />

of Chicago in 2005.<br />

“There are a lot of uncommon similarities<br />

between artists and field workers. ‘Where is<br />

my home? Who will remember me?’” he said.<br />

In some paintings, Maldonado uses<br />

symbols for the migrant experience—a<br />

grocery cart as a mobile home, elephants<br />

that travel long distances and guard<br />

dogs in a rising security state. “It’s about<br />

upsetting stereotypical images about me<br />

as a Mexican-American,” he said.<br />

For the past ten years, Maldonado has<br />

been helping students find their artistic<br />

voices at the Pacific Northwest College of<br />

Art where he’s an assistant professor. He<br />

finds similarities between students and<br />

migrants. “Field workers need platform,<br />

and students need platform to make their<br />

own choices,” he said.<br />

He has begun integrating his work with<br />

Bienestar Oregon, a 35-year-old Hillsborobased<br />

housing and advocacy network to<br />

meet the needs of Latino-Americans. He<br />

hopes to encourage migrants to create<br />

their own lucha masks for self-awareness<br />

and self-actualization. “These are not<br />

disempowered workers,” he said. “As artists,<br />

we have a history of making pictures that<br />

are complete constructs of society. My<br />

work is connecting people to themselves.”<br />

His work is on display at the Froelick<br />

Gallery, the Tacoma Art Museum, the<br />

Museum of Fine Arts in Houston and in<br />

public spaces in Seattle and Portland’s<br />

TriMet bus stops.<br />

66 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong>

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Portrait of a Small-Town Butcher<br />

written by Tricia Louvar<br />

photography by Rob Kerr<br />

THE PROCESS WAS UNDERWAY before the sun<br />

came up in Central Oregon.<br />

The Madras farmhouse’s yellow lights cut a<br />

slice in the black morning sky at the Symons<br />

Beef Company. Almost 60 miles to the south in<br />

Sisters, Jeff Johnson, co-owner of Sisters Meat<br />

and Smokehouse, filed through his email inbox,<br />

managing the underbelly of the small-town startup.<br />

Both small businesses operate on similar<br />

principles—be reliable, show integrity and maintain<br />

consistency. One raises the meat, the other serves<br />

the meat. From hoof to home, this story chronicles<br />

a cycle of local beef in Oregon.<br />

Symons Beef feedlot manager Jarod Wright, with cowboy Devin Robinson in the<br />

background, secure a calf during a morning welfare check on one of the many<br />

natural grass pastures the livestock graze on in Madras.<br />

68 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong>

The Symons ranch operates over a variety of grass and natural sagebrush lands from Mitchell to Terrebonne.<br />

JoHanna Symons, 36, leaned back and looked out her pickup truck’s<br />

window. The Symons own the land all the way to the skyline, she said.<br />

There are six homes scattered on the property used as employee living<br />

quarters. Hay sheds speckle the landscape. Irrigation pivots, twelve<br />

towers long, spray an allotment of water that her husband, Jeremy<br />

Symons, 42, ordered at the beginning of the season.<br />

In 2014, Jeremy and JoHanna Symons from Madras won Jefferson<br />

County’s “Livestockmen of the Year.” This duo has worked for the past<br />

ten years growing Symons Beef Company. Their ranching life started<br />

from about 10 acres to farming more than 1,000 acres, now running<br />

thousands of cattle a year, owning fifty bulls, managing almost ten<br />

employees and raising their three kids.<br />

Everything on the Symons ranch and farm is calculated. “We have<br />

700 mother cows. We also cooperate with<br />

farmers for crops and tie up with cattle,”<br />

JoHanna said. “By a year’s end, we’ll have<br />

managed 7,000 cattle, which is considered<br />

a small operation. There are some ranches<br />

with 100,000 head.”<br />

Symons Beef Company cattle live<br />

and graze on plots at Smith Rock in<br />

Terrebonne and Fopiano Ranch in<br />

Mitchell, some 70 miles apart. “Ninety<br />

percent of our cattle’s lives are on the<br />

grass out there in the sagebrush and<br />

trees,” JoHanna said. Once calves are about six months, they ween<br />

off their mothers and are brought to the Symons’ ranch to “finish<br />

them” for slaughter. They come to the ranch weighing 600 to 800<br />

pounds and don’t load the truck for slaughter until they reach 1,300<br />

pounds.<br />

It takes months for cattle to double their weight. “With hormone<br />

injections, you could get a calf to gain 6 pounds a day, but we don’t do<br />

that,” JoHanna said. “Whereas our cattle only gain 1, maybe, 3 pounds<br />

a day on our grain finish, we have the calves here much longer before<br />

they move on.”<br />

Their feed operation works in tandem with an animal nutritionist<br />

to ensure the cattle have the appropriate nutrition. “The nutritionist<br />

“Ninety percent of our<br />

cattle’s lives are on the<br />

grass out there in the<br />

sagebrush and trees.”<br />

formulates all of the food rations for us at the farm, depending if we<br />

need the animal to gain 1 pound or 3 pounds a day,” JoHanna said. The<br />

feed lot has a “mixing bowl” so large it fills a dump truck of rations in<br />

the cattle pens.<br />

Jeremy knows which pen gets what based on the number of cattle<br />

and the food they require. The mixing bowl dumps triticale, corn and<br />

alfalfa hay into the appropriate pens.<br />

All of the feed comes from the Symons’ farm for a contained<br />

ecosystem to grow the cattle. From the ground up, quality remains key<br />

to their venture. “We have to cut alfalfa at night because the moisture<br />

gets sucked out of the ground and goes into the leaves and keeps the<br />

leaves attached to the stems, so it seals in all the proteins,” JoHanna said.<br />

The Symons have so many fields, it takes Jeremy twenty-two straight<br />

days of work—from 11 p.m. to 4 a.m.—to<br />

plow the alfalfa. He does this three times<br />

during the summer, consuming two-thirds<br />

of the season. He farms at night and cattle<br />

ranches during the day.<br />

Once the cattle are back near the feed<br />

yard, cowboys exercise the cattle every day.<br />

“Animals are meant to be free and grazing<br />

on a hillside,” JoHanna said. The life cycle<br />

and the well-being of the animal require<br />

intensive day-to-day observation before<br />

being trucked to Kalapooia Valley Grass<br />

Fed Processing in Brownsville. Kalapooia is a state-of-the-art facility that<br />

follows humane handling guidelines. Symons said Kalapooia is able to<br />

sustain its volume for now.<br />

“I want to do about thirty animals a week, which is about 50,000<br />

pounds of product a week,” Symons said. “Our goal is to build a slaughter<br />

plant on the ranch so the cattle can just walk from the fields and pens<br />

into the facility.”<br />

Such a facility would make the Symons Beef Company a<br />

closed-loop system in the beef life cycle. For now, the meat is<br />

hauled back from Brownsville to Madras, then delivered to<br />

vendors in Central Oregon and Portland.<br />

—JoHanna Symons<br />

DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 69

70 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong><br />

CLOCKWISE TOP LEFT: Feed made from two varieties of corn, alfalfa and grass is<br />

custom-mixed for each animal at Symons ranch. Sisters Meat and Smokehouse<br />

owner Jeff Johnson wanted the market to feel like the butcher shops of old. Sisters<br />

Meat and Smokehouse cutter Wade Waller displays prepared ribeyes.

the art of beef<br />

Brothers in Sisters<br />

“Excuse me, buddy, could you move that back a little, as we’re<br />

going to use the grinder?” Brody Waller of Sisters Meat and<br />

Smokehouse asked his meat delivery man. The delivery man<br />

put the hand pallet truck in reverse and moved the meat<br />

product farther away from the meat locker.<br />

Jeff Johnson and Kay, his wife of thirty-two years, started<br />

the Smokehouse after years of receiving gifts of smoked<br />

meats from Waller, a relative of the Johnsons. “At Christmas,<br />

he gave us the smoked turkey, pepperoni and jerky,” Kay<br />

Johnson said. “We told him, ‘If you ever want to start a<br />

business, we will back you.’”<br />

After years of negotiation, they reached a deal. Waller<br />

and his older brother, Wade Waller,<br />

a professional meat cutter, came<br />

together. “I supported the vision,”<br />

Jeff Johnson said. “These guys have<br />

a gift, and frankly, wanted to see it<br />

through and wanted to bring a cool<br />

business to Sisters.”<br />

“Once you get<br />

what the general<br />

population likes, you<br />

stay consistent.”<br />

Together the Wallers, thirdgeneration<br />

Oregon butchers,<br />

manage meat cuts and offerings at<br />

the Smokehouse. The Sutherlinraised<br />

men work twelve- to fourteenhour<br />

days, have nineteen fingers<br />

among them and perform a butcher’s waltz with each other.<br />

“We’re here seven days a week,” Wade Waller said. “It’s a lot of<br />

bonding time. We play off each other’s strengths.” Wade, for<br />

example, knows how to turn meat and read the meat faster<br />

than his younger brother. The older Waller had been cutting<br />

meat for eighteen years. He started cutting right out of high<br />

school when his father, butcher Steve Waller, asked him to<br />

learn the business.<br />

Brody, 32, who worked in seasonal construction in<br />

Alaska for twelve years, came back to the Willamette Valley<br />

each winter where he worked on smokehouse recipes and<br />

products, building off his father’s legacy. Their father started<br />

the smokehouse program in the mid-1970s, selling into Dee’s<br />

Market and Price Less Foods, then retired from the business<br />

fifteen years ago.<br />

As a kid in early grade school, Brody remembered being at<br />

his dad’s meat shop, where he learned how to cut frozen half<br />

chickens. “When my dad started, he would go cut the meat<br />

off the hanging carcass. He’d go to the back and cut off the<br />

T-bone,” he said. “When Wade entered the business, that was<br />

all ending and they started bringing in just primal cuts.”<br />

In the United States, primal cuts are the segments of<br />

meat taken off the carcass—including rib, round, chuck and<br />

loin. Grass, grain finish and exercise during the cow’s life all<br />

contribute to a meat cut’s tenderness<br />

and toughness. The more work a<br />

—Jeff Johnson<br />

cow’s body part endured, the more<br />

that cut of meat will be tougher and<br />

laced with connective tissue. So,<br />

the eye of round from the hind legs<br />

is tougher than, say, the abdominal<br />

tenderloin or ribeye, because of its<br />

muscular use.<br />

In the meat delivery comes the<br />

Symons Beef Company order. “We<br />

were looking for a local source, and<br />

we tried out a number of them,<br />

and they just didn’t have something right,” Jeff Johnson said.<br />

“What I’m looking for is someone who knows what outcome<br />

they’re going to get and knows they can repeat it. And then<br />

we found the Symons—they are fantastic.”<br />

On one side of the Smokehouse workshop, Brody pulled<br />

a homemade rub out of a thick plastic bag and slathered<br />

it over slabs of beef. This recipe comes from a three-ring<br />

binder and two generations before them. Treating it as a<br />

classified document of trade secrets, he takes the recipe book<br />

home with him every night. “Once you get what the general<br />

population likes, you stay consistent,” he said. “Every step has<br />

to be done the same.”<br />

DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 71

Taylor Schefstrom<br />

Find Love, Adventure<br />

and Cold Feet at Your<br />

Own Risk<br />

written by James Sinks<br />

IMAGINE A PERFECT DATE. Conversation.<br />

Smiles. Sparks.<br />

Now comes the challenge: How can you follow that<br />

up? Tattoos? Karaoke? All-you-can-eat buffet?<br />

That all seems so, well, conventional.<br />

If you’re looking for something more memorable—<br />

and potentially risky—you’re in luck in Oregon. From<br />

the coast to the Cascades and beyond, opportunities<br />

abound for extreme and remote ventures, and extreme<br />

comfort if you get cold feet.<br />

Does the less-beaten path sound a little crazy<br />

if you’re trying to coax a current or potential love<br />

interest into spending more time with you?<br />

You bet it does. Crazy in an intriguing way.<br />

In addition to boosting your adrenaline, it could be<br />

a chance to learn more about each other and blur the<br />

boundaries of your respective comfort zones.<br />

Thankfully, you don’t need to be a naked or<br />

afraid television celebrity survivor to brave Oregon’s<br />

backcountry. It’s a spectacular place, provided you’ve<br />

done the right planning, gathered the right gear, and<br />

invited the right company.<br />

Love is a many-splendored thing. How might it fare<br />

in multiple layers? Find out together. Pack the traction<br />

tires, parkas, perseverance and some pinot, and head to<br />

the beguiling beauty of Oregon’s winterscape.<br />

Just in case your resolve melts or the weather turns<br />

really foul, we’ve curated complementary nearby<br />

options for extreme comfort and luxury.<br />

Patrick Fink on Mt. Hood.<br />

72 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong>

Taylor Schefstrom<br />

Weathering the Wallowas<br />


The hip and trendy<br />

Jennings Hotel in Joseph<br />

is modern luxury for the<br />

artistic type, with heaps of<br />

exposed brick, succulents<br />

and local artwork on the<br />

walls. In addition, it has a<br />

swanky sauna and a library<br />

of books and records to<br />

gaze at while you stroke<br />

your waxed beard.<br />

$79-$150<br />

jenningshotel.com<br />


and the rest of your body, you can find some 400<br />

inches of soft snowpack in the soaring Wallowa<br />

Mountains of northeast Oregon. Known as<br />

“Little Switzerland,” this is the state’s premier<br />

destination for remote backcountry alpine<br />

skiing—as in, no ski lifts, almost no people, and<br />

no cell service.<br />

You will discover bunkhouse-style overnight<br />

accommodations and meals in well-appointed,<br />

heated yurts against the stunning backdrop of<br />

the Eagle Cap Wilderness Area.<br />

While there’s no room service or showers at<br />

7,000 feet, your muscles will tingle in the sauna<br />

after daylong forays of trekking up slopes on foot<br />

and then skiing back down. It’s a workout: The<br />

recommended packing list includes supplies to<br />

prevent and treat blisters.<br />

Safety is a premium, so all are required to<br />

complete avalanche training and wear beacons<br />

on the slopes.<br />

For ambience, candles are provided in the<br />

yurts—as are sleeping bags, coffee, food and<br />

bathroom supplies.<br />

That’s good because it means you’ll have more<br />

pack space to lug beer or wine to base camp.<br />

Or, for $170, you can have a five-gallon keg of<br />

locally brewed Terminal Gravity suds brought<br />

in. Keeping it cold won’t be a problem.<br />

DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 73

extreme getaways<br />

Ben McBee<br />

Hiking the Rogue<br />


tumbles through rocky outcroppings and fir stands<br />

in southwest Oregon backcountry, and is renowned<br />

for world-class whitewater rafting and hungry bears.<br />

Lesser-known but just as scenic is the Rogue River<br />

National Recreation Trail, which traces a 40-mile<br />

course of the river from the Grave Creek Trailhead<br />

to Illahe, upriver from Gold Beach.<br />

A popular destination in the summer and fall,<br />

the trail and river traffic thins out decidedly in the<br />

winter—so that backpackers like you and your honey<br />

will have ample choice of campsites, according to<br />

Trailkeepers of Oregon.<br />

Definitely check weather reports first. While<br />

snow is uncommon and the trail is below 1,000 feet,<br />

it does blow through. At times of heavy rains, the<br />

river can flood and render the trail impassable.<br />

Seasonal lodges along the river shut down for the<br />

winter, but you can hunker down under the eaves<br />

at the red-painted (and also shuttered) Rogue River<br />

Ranch, about 23 miles downstream. There’s an<br />

adjacent campground at Tucker Flat.<br />

Another option is to drive to the remote ranch<br />

site, a former Native American settlement, pioneer<br />

farm and mining outpost. In nice weather, it takes<br />

two hours on winding roads to reach the ranch.<br />


The Touvelle House Bed & Breakfast in<br />

Jacksonville brings you the fluff of luxury with<br />

a feather bed, down pillows, Egyptian cotton<br />

towels and bathrobes at the ready. The 1916<br />

Craftsman-style home also includes a pool,<br />

bocce ball court and day-passes to Snap Fitness.<br />

$135-$199<br />

touvellehouse.com<br />

74 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong>

extreme getaways<br />

Roamin’ the countryside<br />


will remember forever, inform him or her that<br />

you are traveling to see the Pillars of Rome.<br />

You won’t be heading to the airport. Instead,<br />

fill your thermos and your gas tank.<br />

These pillars are a geologic reason for an epic<br />

Oregon winter road trip. And what better way<br />

to spend a multiple-hour drive than showing off<br />

your ABBA music collection or learning Italian<br />

on the car radio.<br />

The Pillars of Rome jut into the sky in the<br />

remote southeastern corner of the state, where<br />

they stretch for some 5 miles. The clay formation<br />

of 100-foot-high, white, column-looking bluffs<br />

earned its name from pioneers venturing<br />

westward. Today, the photographic landmark is<br />

an entry point for water enthusiasts on the Wild<br />

and Scenic Owyhee River.<br />

Celebrate afterward with the pasta of<br />

Rome. Stop for Italian fare in Burns, a short<br />

100-mile drive away, and maybe you’ll make<br />

it to a third date.<br />


For remote areas without high-end<br />

hotels, take your luxury with you to the<br />

ends of Oregon with a Cruise America<br />

RV rental. The fully-equipped RVs come<br />

with a refrigerator, shower, heating and a<br />

stereo sound system.<br />

$295 and up<br />

Per-Ola Orvendal<br />

DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 75

Getting out of your shell<br />

THE OREGON COAST IS renowned for<br />

battering winter storms. It’s also a time<br />

of year when storm-shifted sand helps to<br />

create ideal conditions for clamming.<br />

It helps if you also define “ideal” as dirty and<br />

in the dark.<br />

The best winter clamming times are<br />

during low tides, which happen mostly at<br />

night. So in addition to packing shovels or<br />

clam guns and picking up a shellfish license,<br />

gear up with warm clothes and headlamps<br />

or lanterns. Veteran clammers also warn<br />

you to never turn your back on the ocean.<br />

Maps of hunting grounds are available from<br />

the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife.<br />

You’ll also want to call the Department of<br />

Agriculture to ensure your beach is open<br />

and safe. Periodic closures occur due to toxin<br />

buildup in shellfish.<br />

Then comes the best part—warming up<br />

afterward if you are, you know, clammy.<br />


The Cottages at Cape Kiwanda bring beach<br />

luxury at its finest, each with an oceanfront<br />

patio and views of Haystack Rock and Cape<br />

Kiwanda. Amenities include a jacuzzi tub,<br />

heated bathroom tile floors and even a fully<br />

stocked fridge upon your arrival.<br />

$299-$749<br />

yourlittlebeachtown.com<br />

Rob Kerr<br />

Clamming on the North Oregon Coast

Basking in extreme getaways<br />

spring-like conditions<br />


endless sky overhead. Now, imagine the two of<br />

you in a tub, soaking up the nighttime panorama<br />

in the Oregon Outback.<br />

Perhaps with new friends. Scantily clad new<br />

friends.<br />

Warmth, relaxation, yoga and less adrenaline<br />

await at rustic Summer Lake Hot Springs, some<br />

<strong>12</strong>5 miles from the light pollution of Bend.<br />

Located near the hamlet of Paisley (home of<br />

the annual Mosquito Festival) on the edge of the<br />

Great Basin, the 145-acre property offers tent<br />

sites, RV hookups and a collection of cabins<br />

for rent. The star attractions—in addition to<br />

the celestial show—are the geothermal mineral<br />

springs and soaking pools, which range from<br />

really hot to comfortably hot. There are two<br />

outdoor soaking pools and one indoors, in a<br />

circa 1928 metal-sided barn.<br />

While the water is warm, the high desert can<br />

get downright chilly. The website advises boots,<br />

wool socks and jackets. The campsites have fire<br />

pits and the cabins have geothermally heated<br />

floors. One has a private soaking grotto.<br />

Be forewarned that the rejuvenating soaking<br />

pools are clothing optional and adults only after<br />

9 p.m. Also, this is not the best setting to impress<br />

your date with your butterfly stroke technique<br />

or Marco Polo skills. The pools are designated<br />

as quiet spaces: no yelling, splashing, jumping<br />

or foul language.<br />


The Frenchglen Hotel near Steens Mountain<br />

is a rustic, shabby-chic inn that is also a<br />

State Heritage Site. Offering luxury for the<br />

historian, the Frenchglen was established<br />

by a meatpacking company in 1916 and was<br />

turned over to Oregon State Parks in 1972.<br />

$75-$82<br />

frenchglenhotel.com<br />

Scott Weissbeck<br />

DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 77

extreme getaways<br />

Taylor Schefstrom<br />

Trail mixing<br />

WHEN YOU’RE DATING, the right footwear<br />

can make a difference.<br />

The same holds true during winter on the<br />

Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail. The Mt.<br />

Hood National Forest section of the trail is 130<br />

miles long, but you’ll cover barely any ground<br />

without proper shoes. Namely, snowshoes.<br />

Frog Lake Trailhead and the lesser-used<br />

Barlow Pass Trailhead offer easy access from<br />

near Government Camp on U.S. Highway 26.<br />

Don’t forget a Sno-Park permit.<br />

Wherever it goes, your conversation should<br />

be fairly easy to hear. A welcome hush falls over<br />

the forest when it’s blanketed by snow, as long<br />

as you’re safely out of earshot of snowmobiles,<br />

dogsleds and braggadocio.<br />

Day hikes through the wintry wonderland<br />

will offer ample selfie moments and sweeping<br />

vistas, and still get you back to a brewpub<br />

before sundown.<br />

If you’d rather stay the night, propane heaters<br />

are waiting trailside to warm your spirits and<br />

your toes at year-round cabins maintained by<br />

Hood River-based Cascade Huts.<br />


Stay above Timberline at 7,000 feet in the<br />

Silcox Hut. Much more than a hut, Silcox<br />

is a private getaway on Mount Hood with<br />

access to all of the amenities down the<br />

way at Timberline. Transportation to the<br />

main lodge, along with dinner and breakfast<br />

(prepared by the host) are also included.<br />

$165-$215 per person<br />

timberlinelodge.com<br />

Patrick Fink on Mt. Hood.<br />

78 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong>

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Josh Dirksen snowboards South Sister, Oregon.<br />

Oregon’s Backcountry<br />

photography by Tyler Roemer<br />

Behind-the-scenes moments in Oregon’s backcountry<br />

often go unseen, due to fear of endangering a camera<br />

or the impracticality of taking out the equipment.<br />

Photographer Tyler Roemer managed to document<br />

these moments. Roemer’s collection gives us rare entry<br />

into the nooks of Oregon that most of us would dare<br />

not go. He invites us into his intimate encounters with<br />

nature, frigid and inconvenient as they may be.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Chris Edmonds at base camp in the Three Sisters Wilderness.<br />

Gunner Oliphant (back) and Josh Dirksen (front) dig an avalanche pit in the Mount<br />

Thielsen Wilderness. Tyge Shelby backcountry skiing the Mount Thielsen Wilderness.

Josh Dirksen snowboards and splitboards<br />

the Mount Thielsen Wilderness.

Josh Dirksen in the Mount Thielsen Wilderness.

Kevin Lahey<br />


ADVENTURE 88<br />

LODGING 92<br />



(pg. 100)<br />

Climbers on Bunny Flats, Mt. Shasta.

travel spotlight<br />

Travel Spotlight<br />

Tiny House Hotel<br />

written by Kjersten Hellis<br />

photography by Tim LaBarge<br />

Portland natives take pride in the city’s quirky side. Tiny<br />

House Hotel is no exception, keeping Portland weird<br />

while providing a unique experience for guests. Choose<br />

from six hand-crafted tiny-trailers that circle a gathering<br />

space with a fire pit. There are several styles to choose<br />

from. The Pacifica is a rustic-style caravan with wood<br />

paneling and stained glass windows while the Caboose<br />

is more modern, with red velvet upholstery and an<br />

overall polished look. No need to worry about roughing<br />

it though, because each tiny house has a shower, toilet,<br />

heating, and a small kitchen. The hotel is located in the<br />

heart of the Alberta Arts District, an area bustling with<br />

local bars, galleries and restaurants.<br />

Tiny House Hotel<br />

5009 NE 11th Ave.<br />


tinyhousehotel.com<br />

86 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong><br />

The Tiny House Hotel on NE Alberta St. in Portland.

adventure<br />

Powder with A View<br />

Snowshoeing at Oregon’s only National Park<br />

written by Lindsay McWilliams<br />

Winter sunrise over Crater Lake.<br />

88 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong>

adventure<br />

Christian Heeb<br />

CRATER LAKE NATIONAL PARK sees 43 feet of snow fall<br />

on its land each year, making it one of the snowiest places in<br />

America accessible by car. And while the average hikes on<br />

park trails might leave you knee-deep in snow, floating on the<br />

surface of the snow with a pair of snowshoes makes it doable.<br />

Fortunately, at Crater Lake, you don’t even have to pay for the<br />

snowshoes.<br />

Oregon’s only national park offers ranger-led snowshoe<br />

tours each winter, starting in November and ending in May.<br />

The scenic, two-hour trips across the snow are about a mile<br />

in distance and free of charge. The park provides snowshoes,<br />

and entrance to the park is free in winter. These trips require<br />

reservations, so call in advance to claim space for your group.<br />

A true winter excursion, snowshoe tours at Crater Lake offer<br />

the opportunity to be inside a real-life snow globe—the site of<br />

the picturesque lake, flakes of white whirring overhead. All of<br />

the snow but without the danger of the backcountry.<br />

“It’s kind of a magical place in the winter,” said park ranger<br />

David Grimes, who leads the tours each season. “It reveals<br />

things that you can’t see in the summer.”<br />

During the tours, Grimes encourages groups to look for and<br />

identify animal tracks in the fresh powder. Rangers use this<br />

opportunity to educate the group on winter ecology and the<br />

season’s importance for Crater Lake’s environment. “Without<br />

the winter, Crater Lake may not be the deepest lake in the<br />

country,” Grimes said.<br />

When you arrive at the park for the snowshoe tour, check in<br />

at park headquarters to learn your starting location. Most tours<br />

start at Rim Village, but it can change depending on the weather.<br />

On clear days, the ranger will guide you around the rim of the<br />

lake atop (at times) 15-foot-high walls of snow. When the sky is<br />

cloudy, the lake becomes “invisible” and a ranger takes you into<br />

the shelter of the snow-laden forest.<br />

Grimes said the park rangers lead the snowshoe tours<br />

regardless of the weather. Snowshoers could be out in<br />

DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 89

adventure<br />

Todd Quam<br />

Visitors are guided through a snowy forest at Crater Lake National Park in January.<br />

the middle of a blizzard for their first time. This is why warm, waterproof<br />

clothing and footwear is essential.<br />

Wherever you’re coming from, make sure you leave with plenty of extra<br />

time to get to the lake, as weather conditions often slow your progress.<br />

Also note that while the park is open all winter, some entrances to the<br />

park are closed.<br />

After the tour, skip the subpar sandwiches at the Rim Village Café and<br />

head out of the park to Beckie’s Café in Union Creek. Beckie’s serves<br />

greasy-spoon diner food and twelve flavors of famous pie. The nearby<br />

scenic Diamond Lake Resort’s Mt. Bailey Grill and South Shore Pizza are<br />

good alternatives, too.<br />

Lodging is not available at the park during winter, but Union Creek<br />

Resort—about 10 miles from Crater Lake—is open year-round. One of<br />

the oldest resorts in the area, Union Creek is neighbor to Beckie’s Café<br />

and has access to the nearby Upper Rogue River Trail.<br />

Wherever you land, you’ll want it to be cozy, warm and dry with plenty<br />

of hot chocolate in hand. Even snow globe figurines need hot chocolate<br />

after a day in the snow.<br />



Diamond Lake<br />

Trail: Silent Creek Loop<br />

Rental On-Site: Yes<br />

Mt. Ashland Ski Area<br />

Trail: Mount Ashland Summit Trail<br />

Rental On-Site: No<br />

Mt. Bachelor<br />

Trail: Zig Zag Loop<br />

Rental On-Site: Yes (free with guided tour)<br />

Trillium Lake<br />

Trail: Trillium Lake Loop Trail<br />

Rental On-Site: No<br />

To reserve a tour, call the Crater Lake visitor center: 541•594•3100<br />

90 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong>

Trim: 9"<br />

Trim: 9"<br />



For the best view, head out to the Turnaround.<br />

As the storm rolls in, watch the surf and sky dramatically transform.<br />

Then close your eyes and extend your arms to the heavens.<br />

Feel the wind whip around you and the rain pound down as nature<br />

unleashes the awesome power of her winter fury!<br />

Then go find a cozy coffee shop and warm up.<br />


Remy Gomez<br />

Liz Barclay<br />

ROOMS<br />

There are eleven rooms and a meeting<br />

room at Suttle Lodge, and sixteen<br />

surrounding cabins available to rent.<br />

Rates for camp cabins start at $<strong>12</strong>5 per<br />

night, and spacious lodge rooms can be<br />

rented for $275 per night.<br />

Lodging<br />

Suttle Lodge & Boathouse<br />

written by Julie Lee<br />

In need of a cozy winter retreat? The Suttle<br />

Lodge & Boathouse in the Deschutes<br />

National Forest offers an intimate getaway<br />

where daily activities include fishing,<br />

biking, skiing and boating, followed by an<br />

evening of fireside decompression. With<br />

an intersection of forest, mountains and<br />

lake, the waterfront setting is breathtaking,<br />

inducing immediate calm. Portland’s<br />

Ace Hotel owners purchased the former<br />

lodge at Suttle Lake in October 2015 and<br />

transformed the 15.5-acre Sisters property<br />

into state-of-the-art accommodations, with<br />

92 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong><br />

Remy Gomez<br />

Suttle Lodge, under new ownership, has reopened with chic new offerings.<br />

the large timber lodge as a nucleus and fully<br />

equipped lakeside cabins, camp cabins, a<br />

cocktail bar and a boathouse surrounding<br />

it. The property is managed by The Mighty<br />

Union, a new and innovative hospitality<br />

team that focuses on retaining the beauty,<br />

nostalgia and wilderness of a property<br />

while implementing urban chic changes to<br />

food, drink and space.<br />

13300 US HIGHWAY 20<br />


thesuttlelodge.com<br />


Suttle Lodge is an easy, overnight stay<br />

from almost any direction, Bend to<br />

Portland, and idyllic for small company<br />

weeklong retreats. Pets are welcome<br />

and treated like royalty. The lobby bar,<br />

called Skip, has a great list of craft<br />

cocktails to sip on while resting by the<br />

lodge fireplace. For further relaxation,<br />

visit the spa treatment room.<br />

DINING<br />

The casual Boathouse restaurant on<br />

the lakeside dock serves breakfast,<br />

lunch and dinner from a ‘fish-shack<br />

meets diner-style’ menu created<br />

by renowned Portland chef Joshua<br />

McFadden of Ava Gene’s. Snacks<br />

include chips with trout dip and<br />

salmon croquettes. Cracker-crust<br />

pizzas have traditional offerings as<br />

well as broccoli, kale and smoked<br />

mozzarella for the more adventurous.<br />

Hot and cold sandwiches keep with<br />

the fish theme; fish & chips as a<br />

sandwich and a poached salmon<br />

roll pair nicely with a cup of trout<br />

chowder.<br />


Adjacent to The Boathouse restaurant<br />

is a beer garden and watercraft rentals,<br />

open to the public, where boats, kayaks<br />

and canoes can be rented for the day.


Farm Fresh Breakfast<br />

Private Baths<br />

Downtown Hood River<br />


Stay, Shop, Ski & Play<br />



Hood River Shopping Coupons<br />

Meadows Ski Special<br />

Adult $59; 3 of 5 day $119<br />

610 Oak Street<br />

Hood River, Oregon 97031<br />

(541) 386-3845<br />

OakStreetHotel.com<br />

Celebrate<br />

the holidays<br />

in Sisters<br />

Country<br />



541.549.0251 866.549.0252<br />


trip planner<br />

94 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong>

Sunriver Resort<br />

Holidays in the High Desert<br />

written by Kjersten Hellis<br />

PERHAPS THERE IS NO PLACE in Oregon more<br />

magical around the holidays than Sunriver Resort.<br />

Outside are banks of snow, panoramic views of the<br />

Cascade Range and endless possibilities to start<br />

your day. Sunriver Resort is an outdoor enthusiast’s<br />

paradise with a healthy balance of adventure, charm<br />

and family time. The holiday season is especially<br />

opulent. At more than 4,100 feet of elevation,<br />

Sunriver is a snow-filled globe for the holidays. The<br />

village blinks with Christmas lights, and excitement<br />

plays in the crisp air of the high desert.<br />

Once a U.S. Army training post for World War<br />

II combat engineers called Camp Abbot, Sunriver<br />

became a destination resort in the late 1960s. The<br />

Great Hall, once an officers’ club, still stands as<br />

a centerpiece for events in Sunriver. The luxury<br />

resort today encompasses 3,300 acres and figures<br />

prominently in the holiday plans of many Oregonians.<br />

Steve Tague<br />

A family enjoys a horse-drawn sleigh<br />

ride at Sunriver Stables.

trip planner<br />

Brian Becker<br />

A skier shreds Mt. Bachelor.<br />

Day<br />


Brian Becker<br />

Hot cocoa is the perfect warmup.<br />

There is far more to do in Sunriver than lounging in<br />

pajamas. Take an espresso macchiato and a fluffy pastry<br />

from Brewed Awakenings as you hit the Village. Rent skates<br />

at the Pavilion for a morning session of ice skating. If you<br />

aren’t keen on skating, you can search for the next Michelle<br />

Kwan while in the glow of the warming hut’s fire. Not all<br />

skaters are created equally, so find Village Bar and Grill, a<br />

good place to nurse your wounds and refill your tank over<br />

lunch. Choose from a menu of juicy burgers, sandwiches,<br />

pastas, and killer fries, but don’t forget a local craft beer.<br />

Outside the grill’s windows, children zoom by every ten<br />

minutes on laps of the Alpine Express Train. On foot, be<br />

sure to check out local shop Lazy Daisy for a collection of<br />

women’s accessories and home décor. Stop by Goody’s, a<br />

Sunriver icon for housemade ice cream and soul-warming<br />

hot cocoa.<br />

Day<br />


If you are tired of plodding through the snow on foot, it may<br />

be time to approach it a different way. With Mt. Bachelor<br />

less than a half-hour drive away, shredding powder at the<br />

mountain is the place to be. Beginners can get comfortable<br />

turns in on Marshmallow while more experienced riders<br />

have free rein to explore the rest of the 3,683 skiable acres.<br />

Meet up for lunch at Pine Marten Lodge for an overstuffed<br />

Bachelor burrito. Bachelor offers plenty of other activities<br />

for non-skiers. When you pull into the parking lot you may<br />

hear a chorus of exuberant barking. A little pre-planning<br />

can earn you a reservation with Oregon Trail of Dreams,<br />

a sled-dog outfit whose dogs zip its riders through the<br />

Deschutes National Forest. There’s also an exhilarating<br />

shot down Bachelor’s inner-tubing hill. If you’re traveling<br />

with kids, you’ve done enough for them by now. Make sure<br />

to pre-book time at Sage Springs Spa for your day’s effort.<br />

96 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong>

Gift<br />

Give the Gift of Discovery!<br />


Wildlife, changing exhibits,<br />

living history, exclusive events.<br />

Memberships start at $60 per year.<br />

59800 south highway 97, bend, oregon 97702 | 541-382-4754<br />


trip planner<br />

Steve Tague<br />

Sage Springs Spa lobby<br />

Steve Tague<br />

A steak at The Grille at Crosswater.<br />

Day 3<br />

Rob Kerr<br />

Endless snow is available a half<br />

hour away at Mt. Bachelor.<br />



In <strong>December</strong>, the holiday spirit is alive in Sunriver. Children<br />

delight in holiday activities including snowshoe tours, gingerbread<br />

contests and crafting with Santa’s elves. If you find yourself in<br />

Sunriver on a weekend, what luck. Start your morning with<br />

breakfast with Santa in the Great Hall. Enjoy a buffet and watch<br />

your children share a special moment with the jolly old elf. After<br />

brunch, take the family on a horse-drawn thirty-minute sleigh ride<br />

through the glittering evergreens on snow-covered trails around<br />

the resort. Snuggle under a blanket and share the magical moment<br />

with your family. After, head to The Grille at Crosswater for a crab<br />

fondue and filet mignon. Bring your A-game, as reservations are<br />

required and a dress code is in effect.<br />


Café Sintra<br />

cafesintrasunriver.com<br />

Marcello’s Cucina Italiana<br />

marcellos-sunriver.net<br />

Sunriver Brewing Company<br />

sunriverbrewingcompany.com<br />

Village Bar and Grill<br />

sunrivervbag.com<br />

The Grille at Crosswater<br />

crosswater.com<br />

Brewed Awakenings<br />

brewedawakenings.us<br />


Sunriver Lodge Village<br />

sunriver-resort.com<br />

Sunriver Vacation Rentals<br />

sunriver-resort.com<br />

Caldera Springs<br />

calderasprings.com<br />

Cascara Vacation Rentals<br />

cascaravacations.com<br />


Ice Skate at The Village<br />

Visit Gingerbread Junction<br />

Brunch with Santa<br />

Sunriver Sleigh Rides<br />

Craft at Santa’s Workshop<br />

sunriver-resort.com<br />

Ski and Snowboard<br />

Sled Dog Rides<br />

mtbachelor.com<br />

Shops at the Old Mill<br />

theoldmill.com<br />

98 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong>

Mount Shasta Resort<br />

Where Heaven Meets Earth<br />

The perfect location for your special day.<br />

Let our professional staff handle your special event,<br />

while you and your guests enjoy a home away from home.<br />

• • • Y 530-926-3030 www.mountshastaresort.com GOLF DINING LODGING DAY SPA<br />

Spring Semester Begins<br />

January 17th!<br />

Registration is OPEN!<br />

www.siskiyous.edu<br />

Courses Available Include:<br />

History, Psychology, Music,<br />

Humanities, Art, Theater, English,<br />

Business, Math, & More!<br />

(assessment testing may apply<br />

depending on class)<br />

Top 10 Reasons to Choose COS<br />

Small Class Sizes (avg. class size is 20 students)<br />

Exceptional Instructors<br />

Friendly Staff<br />

Great Career & Support Programs<br />

Competitive Athletics (Soccer, Football,<br />

Basketball, Volleyball, Softball, Baseball, Track &<br />

Field, and Cross Country<br />

Active Campus Clubs<br />

Free Parking<br />

A Safe Environment<br />

Convenient On-Campus Housing<br />

A Beautiful Location (located in Weed at the base<br />

of Mount Shasta in Northern California)

northwest destination<br />

Skiing Shasta<br />

Northern California’s crown jewel offers outdoor<br />

adventure for all skill levels<br />

written by Ben McBee<br />

photography by Kevin Lahey<br />

Mount Shasta is hard to miss, as most 14,000-feet-tall,<br />

dormant volcanoes are. This sleeping giant of a mountain is<br />

visible long before you reach the base. Thick snow blankets<br />

it during winter and into spring before its runoff. A sulfur<br />

vent near the summit is the only sign of its violent past.<br />

It’s not difficult to imagine why people settled on the<br />

foothills of this symbol for Northern California’s rugged<br />

beauty. The region’s history is steeped in the logging<br />

industry, although the unchecked clear-cut practices of<br />

the past are no more. John Muir’s vision for a Mt. Shasta<br />

National Park never came to fruition, but 38,200 acres of<br />

the Mount Shasta Wilderness’s dense, protected evergreen<br />

forests still keep the air fresh and the outdoors wild and<br />

remote. Every now and then, visitors are treated to a view<br />

of giant lenticular clouds that form a crown above Shasta’s<br />

dome, as if a billowy Guggenheim Museum had blown in<br />

for artistic appearance.<br />

When the snow begins to fall and the lifts at Mt. Shasta<br />

Ski Park begin to whir, the towns of McCloud and Mt.<br />

Shasta buzz with visitors looking to carve the slopes. It’s the<br />

thousands of people who zoom by on I-5 every day who are<br />

missing out. It takes more exploration than a quick drive<br />

through to fully appreciate what the area has to offer.<br />

Mt. Shasta sits at the center of the Volcanic Legacy Scenic<br />

Byway, which connects Mt. Lassen to the south with Crater<br />

Lake National Park to the north. This drive is a West Coast<br />

rite whose grandeur also makes it a romantic road trip.<br />

Honeymooners and elderly couples frequent rustic bedand-breakfasts<br />

such as Shasta Starr Ranch B&B for a taste<br />

of countryside relaxation. The homey setting encourages<br />

you to kick up your feet by the fire and take in a view of<br />

the mountain from the front veranda. Families will find<br />

plenty to do. With hiking trails to McCloud River’s trio of<br />

waterfalls and miles of mountain biking and Nordic skiing,<br />

Shasta is an outdoor enthusiast’s heaven.<br />

Of course, the main attraction is the system of thirty-two<br />

trails and vast expanse of skiable terrain at Mt. Shasta Ski<br />

Park. Its three lifts deliver skiers a healthy dose of powder<br />

therapy. Inexperienced skiers should stick to Marmot<br />

Ridge, where speed-enforced runs Easy Street and Blue<br />

Grouse offer a more laidback learning environment. For<br />

black diamond huck dolls, Shasta provides as well.<br />

Some simply aren’t satisfied with the elevation at the top<br />

of a lift, and prefer ice axes and crampons over skis and<br />

poles. As a rule, the vistas only get better the higher one<br />

climbs. Shasta is second in height only to Mt. Rainier in the<br />

Cascade Range, and only by a hair. More than 15,000 people<br />

a year attempt to summit Mt. Shasta, and just a third of<br />

those accomplish the feat. The snowpack and risk of severe<br />

weather doesn’t deter climbers in the winter. In fact, in some<br />

ways it’s ideal, as loose shale is a hazard during summer<br />

summit attempts. If you’re a conditioned mountaineer and<br />

make it to the top, the panorama is unmatched. Shasta<br />

Lake, a popular summer attraction, lies below and,<br />

on clear days, Sacramento and the Pacific Ocean<br />

are visible.<br />

The south side of Mt. Shasta.<br />

100 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong>

northwest destinations<br />


Mt. Shasta Brewing Company<br />

360 College Ave.<br />

WEED<br />

weedales.com<br />

Dunsmuir Brewery Works<br />

5701 Dunsmuir Ave.<br />

DUNSMUIr<br />

dunsmuirbreweryworks.com<br />

Handsome John’s Speakeasy<br />

316 Chestnut St.<br />


YAKS on the 5<br />

4917 Dunsmuir Ave.<br />


yaks.com<br />

Wassayaks<br />

333 N Mount Shasta Blvd.<br />


wassayaks.com<br />

Seven Suns Coffee and Café<br />

1011 S Mount Shasta Blvd.<br />


Legends of the Klamath Indian Tribes tell of<br />

Skell, the Spirit of the Above-World descending<br />

to inhabit Mt. Shasta. Skell waged a volcanic<br />

battle against Llao, the Spirit of the Below-<br />

World, who lived in Mt. Mazama, or what is<br />

now Crater Lake. In the modern world, Shasta<br />

continues to be a center for spirituality. Mystics,<br />

gurus, and the curious have tried to crack its<br />

many mysteries, ranging from dimensional<br />

vortices and aliens, to a civilization of dwarves<br />

that lives within the mountain. The allure of the<br />

unexplainable is alive and well.<br />

TOP CLOCKWISE Lacy Voeltz and Anna Johnson carve the slopes at Mt. Shasta Ski<br />

Park. Morning snow at the Ski Park Lodge. Coffee drinkers flock to Seven Suns.<br />

Be careful not to confuse an empty stomach<br />

for a misaligned solar plexus chakra while<br />

visiting Mt. Shasta. It’s an easy mistake to make.<br />

You’ll find plenty of restaurants such as YAKS on<br />

the 5, a café in Dunsmuir, California, which was<br />

recently voted one of the top 100 restaurants in<br />

America by Yelp members. The artisan burgers,<br />

made with grass-fed beef, will put you in a<br />

state of sensory nirvana. The selection of 100<br />

craft brews from around California and worldfamous<br />

sticky buns will undoubtedly be a Shasta<br />

road trip highlight.<br />


Shasta Mount Retreat & Spa<br />

203 Birch St.<br />


shastamountinn.com<br />

Shasta Starr Ranch B&B<br />

1008 W A Barr Rd.<br />


mountshastabedandbreakfast.com<br />

Mt. Shasta Inn and Suites<br />

710 S Mount Shasta Blvd.<br />


mtshastainn.com<br />

Mt. Shasta Resort<br />

1000 Siskiyou Lake Blvd.<br />


mountshastaresort.com<br />

McCloud Hotel<br />

408 Main Street<br />

McCLOUD<br />

mccloudhotel.com<br />

DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 101


LOVE IT!<br />


photograph by Randy Machado<br />



presents<br />

Seats Available<br />

• General Admission<br />

• Reserved Bleacher & Hockey Box Seating<br />

• Reserved “On Ice” Dessert Table Seating<br />

Starring<br />






& EVAN BATES<br />










...together with other talented skaters!<br />

photograph by Diana Dumbadse<br />


<strong>1859</strong> MAPPED<br />

The points of interest below are culled from<br />

stories and events in this edition of <strong>1859</strong>.<br />

Live<br />

Think<br />

Explore<br />

25<br />

Velo Bed & Breakfast<br />

62<br />

University of Oregon<br />

73<br />

Wallowa Huts<br />

31<br />

Walter Scott Wines<br />

64<br />

Chimps Inc.<br />

75<br />

Pillars of Rome<br />

32<br />

Larks Home Kitchen Cuisine<br />

66<br />

Froelick Gallery<br />

77<br />

Summer Lake Hot Springs<br />

34<br />

Stephanie Inn<br />

68<br />

Symons Beef Company<br />

89<br />

Crater Lake<br />

36<br />

Anderson Ranches<br />

68<br />

Sisters Meat and Smokehouse<br />

100 Mount Shasta<br />

DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 103

Until Next Time<br />

Bellying up to<br />

great-grandpa’s bar<br />

written by Kathy Patten<br />

Kathy Patten’s great-grandfather tended bar in Eligin in the early 1900s.<br />

THE PHOTOGRAPH SAT ATOP our living room piano for<br />

years, its sepia tones set off by a gilded frame. A handsome<br />

gallant posed before an ornate Victorian back bar, looking<br />

ready to pour a patron’s favorite drink or offer sound advice. I<br />

could almost hear ragtime music playing.<br />

It stirred my imagination and my curiosity. My greatgranddad,<br />

Andrew Jackson Patten, was the earnest barkeep<br />

and manager of Henry’s Saloon in Elgin when the photo was<br />

snapped in 19<strong>12</strong>.<br />

Could it be the old bar was still around? Nah, it probably<br />

rotted away years ago in some wheat farmer’s old barn. But<br />

I decided to go searching for it anyhow. You see, we Pattens<br />

don’t give up easily.<br />

“Jack” was the eldest son of Oregon Trail pioneers William<br />

and Elizabeth Patten, who settled in Linn County in the<br />

Willamette Valley in the 1850s before retracing their wagonwheel<br />

ruts to homestead at the foothills of the Blue Mountains<br />

in northeastern Oregon’s beautiful Grande Ronde Valley. The<br />

family, with seven children, persevered through hardships and<br />

heartbreaks to build a life and a frontier town they named<br />

Summerville, in honor of their good friends from Harrisburg,<br />

Alexander and Elizabeth Sommerville. In 1874, when Jack<br />

turned 20, his father deeded him the first lot of the newly<br />

platted city. Jack was an astute businessman and co-owned<br />

Summerville’s sawmill and other businesses before moving to<br />

nearby Elgin in the late 1800s. When he died in 1921, the only<br />

place large enough to hold his funeral service was the stately<br />

Elgin Opera House, built the same year the photo was taken<br />

and still in use today.<br />

The first stop on my mission was the Elgin Corner Market,<br />

which shows its community pride by displaying historical<br />

photos on the walls. Surprise! Among them was the picture of<br />

my great-granddad.<br />

I asked the clerk if she knew of any antique bars in town. She<br />

thought there might be one just up the street.<br />

I walked two or three blocks, past antique shops and<br />

century-old brick buildings, and through the front door of<br />

The Brunswick Restaurant and Lounge. I inquired in the café<br />

whether the place had a bar, suddenly feeling a bit sheepish on<br />

a Sunday afternoon. I was directed to the back.<br />

Then I saw it.<br />

It was gorgeous, just like the photo, with dark mahogany<br />

wood embellished with intricate carving. Before I had a chance<br />

to ask the bartender about it, I spotted one more surprise.<br />

Resting on a shelf, amid the sparkling glasses, was the picture.<br />

This was it!<br />

Just 104 years after that great photo was taken, I was sitting<br />

on a stool at my great-grandfather’s bar.<br />

I raised a toast to the 300,000 brave emigrants who believed<br />

in America’s manifest destiny to settle the West, and to the<br />

many entrepreneurs such as Jack Patten who helped build its<br />

cities. Without their big dreams, hard work and ambition, I<br />

wouldn’t be a lucky Oregonian today. Cheers!<br />

104 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong>

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