1859 Summer 2009
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1 8 5 9 M A G A Z I N E . C O M
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Welcome to the Top
Editor
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publisher
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Creative Director
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Trail Map
Front Cover
2007-08
executive editor
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Contributing writers
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Elizabeth Van Brocklin, Bob Woodward
Intern extraordinaire
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The criterium stage of the Cascade Cycling Classic in downtown Bend is a spectator treat and one of the oldest proving grounds for cycling's budding talent. (7.21-26)
Summer in Oregon
A regional glimpse into summer's events and attractions
wow, a rodeo and crafts. See "Slash and Earn"
(page 30) on the Tribes' ambitious plan for sustainable
energy production.
Willamette Valley
Celebrate Oregon’s 150th birthday bash (8.28-
9.07) at the Oregon State Fair in Salem with
carnival games and rides, and music from Pink
Martini, the Doobie Brothers and Reba McEntire.
Beer, bikes and bomb-ass trails in Oakridge
with Mountain Bike Oregon (7.17-19 and
8.21-23). The International Pinot Noir Celebration
(7.24-26) at Linfield College, and Mt. Angel
Octoberfest's (9.17-20) biergarten and folk music
highlight the wine-to-beer migration in the
Valley. Keep your eyes open for the September
debut of the Allison Inn & Spa in Newberg,
which will make a fine back-to-school gift for
any wine lover.
Southern Oregon
London has the Globe Theatre. The Pacific
Northwest has the Oregon Shakespeare Festival,
which includes Henry VIII, Much Ado
About Nothing and Don Quixote on the Elizabethan
Stage (June-October). Jump up to historic
Jacksonville in July for the Britt Music Fest's
contemporary tunes of Son Volt, Cowboy Junkies,
James Taylor, Blues Traveler and on into August
for its classical concert series. Culture in
extremis can lead to gluteus extremis. The 13-
mile uphill run, Mt. Ashland Hillclimb (8.01),
is one way to achieve gluteus minimis. Over the
pass, the Klamath Tribes celebrate their 23rd
Annual Restoration Celebration with a pow-
Portland Metro
Seeing tap dancer Savion Glover is reason
enough to check out the Oregon Bach Festival
(through 7.11). From stage to the big outdoor
screen, Flicks on the Bricks at Pioneer
Courthouse Square kicks off summer Fridays
with Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade (7.10)
and ends with Anchorman (8.14). For festivals
and music: the Bastille Day Festival (7.11) in
Jamison Square Park and PDX Pop Now! (7.24-
26) in southeast Portland. For hot hotels in the
area, see 1859's "Treat and Retreat," (page 40).
The Thunderbirds and fireworks take to the air
in Hillsboro, for the Oregon International Air
Show (8.28-30).
12 1859magazine.com summer 09
Photo courtesy Oregon Shakespeare Festival
Although festivals
earn the spotlight in
summer, there are
other great things to do.
Around the State
takes you there.
[top left] Don Quixote plays at Ashland's Oregon Shakespeare Festival. [top middle] The Pendleton Roundup brands its 100th anniversary this year. [top right] Pinot growers
and drinkers in the Willamette Valley. [bottom left] Keep Portland weird, but keep Eugene even weirder at the Saturday Market. [bottom right] The Mt. Hood Jazz Festival in
its 28th year.
Mt. Hood/The Gorge
Discover la vie provençal at Hood River's Lavender
Festival (7.11-12) in Oregon's most aromatic
festival. The Timberline Mountain Music
Series returns on Wednesdays with the Freak
Mountain Ramblers and others at the outdoor
amphitheater (8.05-9.02). The Hood River Fruit
Loop Cherry Celebration strewn over 35 miles
of berry country is also worth a taste (7.11-12).
Eastern Oregon
The Cascade Range divides eastern and western
Oregon, but the Pendleton Round-Up (9.16-
19) brings both cultures together in the 100-
year tradition, one of the largest rodeos in the
world. Git yerself to The Rainbow (est. 1893),
Pendleton's oldest continuously open and operated
bar. Still farther east in Oregon's outback
is Hells Canyon Mule Days (9.11-13) with a
mule show, cowboy poets, pit BBQ dinner, and
Western art. Baker City celebrates pioneerera
music in the Oregon Trail Music Festival
(7.11-12). Don't forgo the Oregon Trail Interpretive
Center in Baker City, where (9.12-13)
you can learn blacksmithing. If blue skies and
the blues are your bag, hit Crossing the Blues
La Grande Summer Festival (8.21-22), with a
midnight movie.
The Coast
Coos Bay hosts the ocean, wine, food and music
at the Oregon Coast Music Festival (7.11-24);
the Blackberry Arts Festival (8.22-23). Follow
on with cheese at the 100th anniversary
celebration of Tillamook cheese (8.01). And
what would the beach be without the Seaside
Beach Volleyball Tournament (8.07-8). Guys,
practice Speedo restraint. ... Unless you can run
like Pre at the Prefontaine Memorial 10k Run
(9.19) at Coos Bay. In the Scandinavian north
coast, hit the oldest settlement in the West
(8.12-16) for the Astoria Regatta. The Cannery
Pier Hotel and the downtown Elliot are two
retreats that will float your boat. The Oregon
Coast Aquarium in Newport has a new exhibit
that brings together some of the most bizarre
underwater life with colorful blown glass.
Central Oregon
The Cascade Cycling Classic (7.21-26), the longest
standing stage-race in America, is great for
spectators; and the Haulin Aspen full and half
marathons (8.09) on singletrack is a must for
trail runners. The top summer events in Sisters
are the world class Sisters Outdoor Quilt Show
(7.11) and Sisters Folk Festival (9.11-13), which
brings in top regional and national acts. For kids
and other hungry minds, head over to see the
world's rarest and largest bats at The Live Bat
Experience at the High Desert Museum (7.13-
7.19). Downtown favorite Merenda is now 900
Wall, the same good food and wine but at a more
reasonable price. And Zydeco Kitchen, with its
upscale comfort food, is now downtown at 919
Bond Street.
summer 09 1859 oregon's magazine 13
Sound Off
Illustrations by Paul Harris
The Great Tax Debate
Oregon is one of five states that has no sales tax, thus making this topic a biennial favorite
when the state budget is in critical condition. State services typically ride the boom/bust
cycle with the two-legged property and income tax. Oregon Democrats and Republicans
alike have argued for a more stable tax base to fund our public school system, which is
often the biggest loser. A sales tax may never happen in this state, but the debate continues
to shape this debate for 1859.
Mark Thoma
mthoma@uoregon.edu
Jay Kushner
portlandGOP@gmail.com
Oregon should consider adding a sales tax to its mix of revenue sources.
First, the cost of state services is expected to increase in the future, so
simply keeping government at its present size will require new sources of
revenue. A sales tax is one possibility.
Second, to the extent that
adding a sales tax
broadens the tax
base, the average
tax rate required
to raise a given
amount of
revenue will
be lower. This
benefits existing
taxpayers no matter
what size government
we have.
Third, a big problem
in Oregon is the variation
in revenues as state
conditions change, and,
though the evidence on
this is mixed, a state
The people of Oregon have voted no on a sales tax nine times through
the ballot. Still, politicians continue to promote a state sales tax. There is
always a need to be filled somewhere, and a gaggle of economists on the
state payroll will catalog them with dismal predictions of disaster. But
the real disaster is the sales tax itself.
Having no sales tax is Oregon’s comparative advantage in competing
with other states. Oregon is
one of only five states that
does not have a
sales tax. The retail benefits
are obvious.
The comparative
advantage helps us
in winning manufacturing
plants and
jobs. With the cost
of building a plant in
Oregon 8 percent less
than in neighboring
states, a billion-dollar
semi-conductor factory
has an $80 million
savings. No sales tax attracts
the plant and the jobs.
14 1859magazine.com summer 09
sales tax may provide a more stable revenue source than income and
property taxes.
Fourth, the revenue instability problem can be solved with an adequately
sized rainy day fund, but the politics of the state’s “kicker law” have not
allowed this to happen. Adding a state sales tax is an opportunity to break
this political logjam and establish the rainy day fund that we need.
Fifth, taxing consumption encourages saving while taxing income discourages
work, so replacing income taxes with a sales tax increases the
incentive to work and save, both of which encourage economic growth.
Sixth, visitors use state resources while they are here, and other states
don’t hesitate to take our money when we visit them, so why not impose
a sales tax and return the favor?
Seventh, income is taxed differently depending upon the source (e.g. capital
gains are taxed less than labor income) and that distorts incentives. A
sales tax overcomes this problem.
Finally, the biggest problem with a sales tax is that it is regressive. However,
this can be addressed by exempting necessities, and by adjusting
other taxes and transfers to compensate.
Mark Thoma is a University of Oregon economics professor.
Sales tax is regressive. Poor people, wage earners, fixed income citizens
pay a larger percentage of their money on sales tax than the wealthy.
I have always been puzzled that Democratic politicians are the chief
advocates of a sales tax which hurts the “most vulnerable” people they
claim to protect.
A sales tax costs you more for everything. It’s not just the groceries and
the cup of coffee. Cars cost more, house renovations cost more, energy
costs more and entertainment costs more. Consequently the overall
state GDP declines, and our people live less well.
A sales tax always goes up. It may start as 1 or 2 percent, but once established,
it can be raised promiscuously by legislators.
A sales tax has a local disadvantage. Under most sales tax regimes, cities
and counties get a portion of the revenue. Cities compete ferociously to
attract shopping centers and big box retail stores because of the sales tax
revenue they bring. This is a disaster for small business and for urban
planning.
Jay Kushner is chairman of the Multnomah County Republicans
Is this as
GOOD
gets?
as it
The Road Reconsidered
Sunset Highway/Highway 26
The ROAD Reconsidered explores sections of Oregon roads and
rivers through history, geology and ecology TO make your next trip
more enlightened.
Seaside
Vernonia
Because it leads west and
other fallacies...
Portland's beach gangway, Sunset Highway,
was originally called Wolf Creek Highway,
as construction by WPA began in 1933 and
was completed in 1949. In 1946, Wolf Creek
Highway was renamed Sunset Highway, not
because it leads west, as most Oregonians
assume, but for the sunset emblem worn by
the 41st Infantry Division, based in Portland.
This division was the first of U.S. troops to
deploy in WW II, after the Japanese attack on
Pearl Harbor. (Oregon Historical Society)
What monkeys don't know …
The Oregon Zoo sits atop Mount Sylvan, a
dormant shield volcano—a low profile volcano
that erupts with fluid basaltic lava.
(In Search of Ancient Oregon)
Life beyond Earth?
Alien ships have an affinity for American
farms and crops. And so it was that in June
1994, The Oregonian reported, hundreds of
people with cameras and video cams flocked
to a crop circle just west of the exit for 185th
Avenue off Sunset Highway to record what
some called a UFO landing spot.
The storied life of Joseph Meek
Meek drove one of the first wagon trains down
the Oregon Trail in 1840, and actively pursued
statehood for Oregon, then a provisional government.
In 1847, he led a delegation overland
to Washington, D.C., where he petitioned his
cousin's husband, President James Polk, for Oregon
statehood. In 1848, President Polk appointed
Meek the new territory's federal marshal. Married
to three Indian women in succession, Meek's
half-Indian children were treated as outsiders by
the society he helped orchestrate. (Washington
County Museum, Winnifred Herrschaft)
Sagging real estate
The first Washington County jail was built by New
York transplant William Brown around 1853. The
undersized 16-by-12-foot wooden jail was built for
$1,175 ($192/square foot) and sold 17 years later for $75
in gold coin, or 40 cents per square foot. It's now on
display at the Washington County Museum.
First Inhabitants?
The Kalapuya Indian tribe was estimated to be about
15,000 strong and lived in this region in the early
to mid 19th century. This tribe raised to an art- and
trade-form the making of cakes from camas flowers,
which they sold at regional events. Experts with fire,
they also burned fields for productivity and hunted
deer by encircling them with fire rings. (Washington
County Museum, Sonja Gray)
Shelled
In Vernonia, geologists found fossils of turtles
estimated to be 40 million years old.
(Roadside Geology of Oregon)
16 1859magazine.com summer 09
Suggest a road or
river for The Road
Reconsidered at
1859magazine.com
Construction of Sunset Highway in October 1936
(City of Portland Archives)
Portland
Fallen giant
The Klootchy Creek Giant sitka, in Klootchy
Creek Park just southeast of Seaside, Oregon
on Hwy 26, was the largest sitka spruce in
the country at 216 feet tall
and 56 feet around! The
first known documentation
of this towering tree
was noted in the journal
of Meriwether Lewis on
Tuesday, February 4, 1806.
On December 2, 2007, a
windstorm snapped the
tree along an old lightning
scar, cutting it down
to 80 feet but leaving it
alive to nurse more giant
sitkas. Klootchy Creek Giant
was the first Oregon
Heritage Tree. (Lewisand-
ClarkTrail.com, Oregon
Travel Information Council) The sitka spruce as it now stands.
Photo courtesy Oregon Travel Information Council
Summer25
Musts
Ride, drive, float, walk, listen, surf and hike
... welcome to base camp Oregon
Brent McGregor
18 1859magazine.com summer 09
y Bob Woodward
Outdooregon
Oregon's greatest asset
is its diversity of outdoor
recreation possibilities.
Limiting any Oregon
must-do list to 25 items isn't an easy
task. A hundred would be more like
it. That noted, these 25 outings are
the essentials. If you haven't done
any of them, you've got your work
cut out for you. If you've done some
of them, you'll find some interesting
pursuits that you may not have considered.
Every summer, find two or
three major outings and enjoy them
to the fullest. So whether you walk,
gawk, hike, ride, surf or paddle, you'll
go home from any Oregon outdoor
experience the better for it.
Sea Lion Caves, Florence
The height of a 12-story building and
the length of a football field, the sea
lion cave north of Florence is a hulking
treasure of groaning mammals.
summer 09 1859 oregon's magazine 19
Toketee Falls, North Umpqua
One of the most beautiful of the 15 waterfalls
located along the North Umpqua Scenic Byway.
Cascading over a basalt formation, the falls are
four-tenths of a mile over a pathway and stairs
to a viewing platform.
Diane Stevenson
Outdooregon
SAND PLAY
Riding a dune buggy, hiking the 10 miles of unobstructed beach, frolicking
on the sands of the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area are
but three of many attractions near the quaint seaside town of Florence.
Others include the sea lion caves north of Florence and the historic
Heceta Head Lighthouse.
WHITEWATER/CLEAR WATER
Take crystal clear cold water, mix in verdant riverside foliage and
bright sun, and you have whitewater rafting on the North Umpqua
River. It's a drop-pool river with the rush of each rapid followed by
calm waters and time to sightsee.
HIGH LAKES DRIFTER
With snow-covered mountains serving as a backdrop, Central Oregon's
forested, clear water High Cascade Lakes offer a myriad of
paddle opportunities for kayakers and canoeists. Good campgrounds,
fishing and photo ops are bonuses.
BE A CULTURE VULTURE
From Shakespearean drama performed outside to new plays and classic
revivals done indoors, musical theater, fine restaurants, and a bucolic
setting, Ashland delivers theater and aprés-theater in spades. And
for a change of pace from Ashland’s Oregon Shakespeare Festival,
head over to nearby Jacksonville for music—classical to jazz, blues and
folk—in the Britt Festival’s outdoor amphitheater.
Photo courtesy Oregon Shakespeare Festival
The outdoor theater in Ashland,
where the Bard himself is always in
season and in vogue.
At Elk Lake and with South Sister
behind, rugged beauty is the norm in
the Cascade High Lakes.
Mike Houska
summer 09 1859 oregon's magazine 21
Outdooregon
SINGLETRACK NIRVANA
Considered a classic by mountain bike riders nationwide, the McKenzie
River Trail follows the river for 26 miles through a dense oldgrowth
forest and past spectacular Sahalie and Koosah Falls. While
the trail is technically challenging at its start, it moderates and finishes
easy and fast.
CASTING TO REDSIDES
Cutting through Oregon's dry side east of the Cascades, the Deschutes
River gets its name from its many falls but its reputation from its
hard-fighting native "Redside" rainbow trout. Single-day to multi-day
fly-fishing float trips take anglers into the heart of the river's steep
walled basaltic column cliffs.
LINKING UP
The closest thing to true Scottish links golfing in America is Bandon
Dunes on the southern Oregon coast near Bandon. Here the wind
howls and each shot demands steely reserve. Designed by Scotsman
David McLay Kidd, Bandon Dunes is for walking with a caddy.
Companion courses (Pacific Dunes, Bandon Trails and Old McDonald)
make for equally impressive play.
Bob Woodward
The McKenzie River Trail is a
mountain biking rite of passage.
The famed Bandon Dunes golf
course on the southern coast of
Oregon is renown Scotsman David
McLay Kidd's American opus.
Mike Houska
Mike Houska
Central Oregon's Deschutes River is among the
nation's top fly-fishing destinations.
Yaquina Head Lighthouse
This 93-foot tower, on Newport's shoreline, took one
year to build and used more than 370,000 bricks. Be
prepared to climb 114 steps when you visit.
Paula Watts
Outdooregon
TROLLING ASTORIA
Once dubbed "The San Francisco of the north"
for its hills and colorful Victorian-style houses,
Astoria is rich with history. Ride the trolley
to the Columbia River Maritime Museum,
watch cargo ships from a riverside hotel room,
experience incredible dining and then hike to
the Columbia Column and feel like Lewis and
Clark might have on their first viewing of the
Pacific Ocean.
A ROUGISH HIKE
Days on the trail and nights in lodge comfort
make hiking the 44-mile Rogue River Trail
truly memorable. The trail parallels the Wild
and Scenic Rogue and can be done in four leisurely
days. Raft-supported camping is another
possibility. And if hiking doesn't appeal, raft
the river and stay in lodges or camp.
MAKING A LOOP
Starting and finishing in historic Frenchglen,
the Steens Mountain Loop Road wends its way
through the waterfowl and songbird rich Malheur
National Wildlife Refuge, past Fish Lake
and then across the mountain's broad spine.
To the east the Alvord Desert fans out to the
horizon almost a mile below, while to the west,
Big and Little Indian gorges carve deep into the
landscape.
A CASE OF QUILT
For one July weekend every year, the town of
Sisters transforms itself into a quilter's paradise.
Quilt-makers from all over the world
descend on the town to display outdoors
some 1,200 quilts, sell them, attend seminars
on quiltmaking and pass along the lore of this
folk art.
HANGING TEN
Surfing and Oregon actually do go together,
especially at Cape Kiwanda in Pacific City.
Popular with long- and short-boarders, the
cape break also attracts kayak surfers. The
Pelican Pub and Brewery is a great beachfront
destination for the land-lubbers, who
would rather watch surfers from a safe
distance.
where's waldo?
Considered one of the world's clearest bodies
of water, Waldo Lake is special to sailors,
kayakers and canoeists. For mountain bikers
and hikers, the 16-mile trail around the lake is
challenging but the camping is easy.
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Camping in the Wallowas
The Wallowas and Wallowa Lake are great nature
retreats without the crowds in Oregon's outback.
Mike Houska
Outdooregon
ART wALKING JOSEPH
Beneath the rampart of the Wallowa Mountains,
Joseph has, on first impression, the
look of a typical one-horse Western town.
A walk around reveals art galleries and
foundries and the realization that this is
one art-centric town. Apart from art, there's
camping at majestic Wallowa Lake, rafting
Hell's Canyon and quenching your thirst with
ales at the Terminal Gravity microbrewery in
nearby Enterprise.
MOUNTAIN BIKING THE HOOd
Singletrack trails that snake through a dense
old-growth forest and run alongside roaring
streams arriving at vistas of snow-capped
Mount Hood make for some of Oregon's most
memorable mountain biking. Circumnavigating
Oregon's signature volcanic peak is now
also possible via a system of huts.
BACKPACK THE SKY LAKES
Nearly 117,000 acres of high alpine country
dotted with lakes make up the Sky Lakes
Wilderness northeast of Ashland. Near
volcanic Mount McLaughlin, the Wilderness
is accessible to day hikers but best experienced
on multi-day lake-to-lake backpacking
sojourns.
CYCLE THROUGH HISTORY
Cycling from La Grande to Baker City the
"back way" along State Highway 203 takes
riders through historic Union with its stately
old Victorian homes and National Historical
Register downtown buildings, and along
Catherine Creek past Medical Springs and
Hot Lake in the core of Oregon's historic gold
mining country.
wINE BY BIKE
Not that long ago Oregon burst on the worldwide
wine scene with prize winning Pinot
noirs. Now the state’s number of varietals and
wineries has grown. Touring the rolling hills
of the wine country by bicycle allows for more
time to drink in the scenery not to mention the
fruits of the winemaker's labor.
GET A GRIP AT SMITH ROCK
In the early 1980s, Smith Rock was a littleknown
Central Oregon rock formation home
to the new “sport” climbing style. Fame came
quickly as short technical routes became
popular. That popularity has not faded as
climbers have put up routes for all abilities on
Smith Rock's welded tuff.
Caption for Image or Action
Painted Hills Caption
Part of the John Day Fossil Beds, Painted Hills
gets its colorful layers from laterite soil that
formed in floodplain deposits.
Paula Watts
Outdooregon
STRUMMING ALONG
Old time fiddlin' and pickin' are what July's
Wheeler County Bluegrass in Fossil Festival
is all about. The event is free and when not
playing or listening, the nearby John Day
Fossil Beds and the Painted Hills are worth
a visit.
BIRDING BY BOAT
A sure way to get close to incredible numbers
of waterfowl is to paddle the marked,
self-guided canoe/kayak trails on the Upper
Klamath National Wildlife Refuge and the
Klamath Forest National Wildlife refuge. Both
are famous for waterfowl and hundreds of
other species of avian life.
TUMBLING WATERS
Along a short stretch of the historic Columbia
River Gorge Highway 30 (just off I-84) are a series
of pristine waterfalls. Make a short walk to
Horsetail, Wahkeena and Latourell falls or take
a long hike alongside Bridal Veil and spectacular
620-foot Multnomah Falls.
SURFING THE GORGE
As summer winds howl up and down the
Columbia River Gorge, it becomes a worldwide
windsurfing and kiteboarding mecca. And what
better place for post-river outings than laidback,
friendly Hood River.
AGE OF AQUARIUS REVISITED
Tie-dye maybe be out of style most places
but, in Eugene, during the April to November
regular Saturday Markets, it's a high fashion
statement. The market features crafts, music,
food, locally grown produce and, what else,
hipster apparel.
PUB CRAWL PORTLAND
The heart and soul of the American microbrewery
revolution, Portland's lively local
beer-making scene and its products are best
sampled on a well-planned evening pub crawl.
That, or make a daytime tour to see what it
takes to make a craft brew.
Visit Bob Woodward's
blog at 1859magazine.
com/recreation to
chat about the Oregon
outdoors and tell us
about your "must-do"
summer agenda.
Live wild animals. 1880s pioneers. The spirit of the West. It’s closer than you think.
open daily 9-5 | five minutes south of bend | 59800 s. hwy 97 | 541-382-4754 | highdesertmuseum.org
Caption for Image or Action
Painted Hills
Part of the John Day Fossil Beds, Painted Hills
gets its colorful layers from laterite soil that
formed in floodplain deposits.
Paula Watts
So many things to do.
So many sunny days to do them.
Skiing. Golfing. Hiking. Biking. Fly-fishing. White water rafting. Whatever you and your family
are into, you’ll find it in Central Oregon. Blessed with 300 sunny days a year, Central Oregon is
renowned for its outdoor recreation. And like any world-class destination, it has the resorts,
gourmet dining, and indulgent day spas to back it up. Get more adventure for your money.
And go on the Greatest Vacation on Earth. Get our free 88-page Official Visitors Guide by
calling 800-800-8334 or go to VisitCentralOregon.com for more information.
everything under the sun.
Features Summer 2009
18
25 Summer Musts
From fly-fishing the top Rainbow trout spots
in the country to backpacking into the majestic
Sky Lakes Wilderness and popping into otherworldly
ocean caves of sea lions at the coast,
there's a good life's worth of adventure here.
by Bob Woodward
30
Slash and Earn
The Klamath Tribes in Southern Oregon
struck a crucial milestone in regaining a fraction
of the millions of acres of tribal lands that they
have lost in treaties over the past 150 years.
Their ambitious plans in forest management and
renewable energy have the eyes and ears of the
state and federal energy elite.
by LiBBy Tucker
40
Treat and Retreat
It's all about the journey ... unless your resting
point is the better story. 1859 trolls the state
for lodging retreats with unparalleled
character, history and comfort.
by Sarah Max
on the cover:
Mule Canyon on the Rogue River
© Matthew L. Maloney
28
Inside this Issue
18 56 64
8
12
14
16
18
50
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
AROUND THE STATE
At a glance, the events, festivals, races
and shows you don't want to miss this
summer
SOUND OFF
Two perspectives on Oregon's elusive
sales tax
THE ROAD RECONSIDERED
sunset Highway: It's not what you
think. recent and ancient history, and
geology help us reconsider our next trip
to the beach
OUTDOOREGON
Compelling adventures for the ambitious
and the not-so-ambitious
WHAT I'M WORKING ON
Harvard snubbed his research; OHsu
embraced it. Now Dr. Brian Druker is
the preeminent hope behind a cure
52
56
62
64
82
FROM WHERE I STAND
union, Oregon through the eyes of
an insider
DESIGN
Design and sustainability meet in this
high desert modern home
ARTIST IN RESIDENCE
Paul Harris explores walnut ink
HOME GROWN
The marionberry: from farm to table,
and from savory to martini
TOP 5
Columbia sportswear's ma Boyle
and what she can't live without
IN THIS ISSUE ON
1859MAGAZINE.COM
CALENDARS
& GETAWAY GUIDES
70 Central Oregon
72 The Coast
74 eastern Oregon
75 mt. Hood/The Gorge
76 Portland metro
78 southern Oregon
80 Willamette Valley
Feature: The U.S. Senator from Oregon who was served as a Democrat, Republican and Independent
calendar: Summer festivals, concerts and events happening across the state
directories: Statewide guides for Real Estate . Restaurants . Shopping . Travel . Recreation
6 1859magazine.com summer 09
Welcome
to Oregon's Magazine
Welcome to the premier issue
of 1859 Oregon’s Magazine.
There are few places in
this world can you surf the
ocean, hike behind waterfalls in a temperate
rain forest, ski in a high alpine setting and
raft through desert canyons all within a sixhour
drive. In Oregon, you can. 1859 Oregon's
Magazine captures what it truly means to live,
work and play in Oregon by making us intellectual,
recreational, historical and culinary
tourists in our own state.
Through striking photography and engaging
editorial content, 1859 will hike into the
backcountry, delve into the lives of innovators,
stomp grapes in the Willamette Valley and
blow the dust off Oregon history.
In our first issue, we encounter the Klamath Tribes of Chiloquin
who are striving for energy independence through a sustainable
biomass project and whose success has tribal, statewide
and national implications. In “The Road Reconsidered,” we reintroduce
you to our roads and rivers with historical, geological
and cultural facts that bring these stretches alive and awaken the
Clark W. Griswold in all of us.
“From Where I Stand” takes us to the Grand Ronde Valley in
the northeast to learn a little about Union, Oregon from the perspective
of one of its keenest observers. Travel continues with our
choice of some of the best hotels, inns and lodges throughout
the state in “Treat and Retreat.”
The issue closes with an Oregon icon, the legendary Ma Boyle.
In our “Top 5,” Oregon’s First Lady of Frozen Challenges and Columbia
Sportswear’s chairwoman, Gert Boyle, opens up with a
surprising list of the five things she can’t live without.
We have also put considerable time and attention into our
comprehensive website, 1859magazine.com, a marketplace of
ideas, culture, travel and recreation. The website content, you'll
find, is different but complementary to the magazine.
The 1859 team has had loads of fun working on a project in
which we passionately believe. We hope you will join us in this
fascinating journey around our state by subscribing to Oregon's
magazine at www.1859magazine.com.
If you're out and about, you can find 1859 in Whole Foods
Markets, Barnes & Noble, Borders and independent bookstores
from California to Oregon and Washington.
You can also hook up with us in your area during the 1859
summer roll-out tour. Go to our website for the summer schedule,
or find us on Twitter @1859magazine.
Kevin MAx, Editor
8 1859magazine.com summer 09
Welcome to the Top
Editor
Kevin Max
publisher
Heather Huston Johnson
Trail Map
Front Cover
2007-08
Creative Director
Anouk Tapper
executive editor
Sarah Max
Contributing writers
Cathy Carroll, Nichole Patrick, Lisa Pounders, Libby Tucker,
Elizabeth Van Brocklin, Bob Woodward
Intern extraordinaire
Elizabeth Van Brocklin
w w w. T i m b e r l i n e L o d g e . c o m
Contributing photographers
Bob Woodward, Brent McGregor, Diane Stevenson,
Rick Schafer, Boone Speed
circulation manager
Ross Johnson
C
M
Oregon’s
cataract
specialists
Advertising Department
Sonja Aldrich
Ty Hildebrand
Jamie Hildebrand
Hayley Elshire
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and is printed on FSC Certified paper from West Linn, Oregon.
We make local habit.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any
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Slash
and
EarnThe Klamath
Tribes
forge a new path to sustainable energy production
in what could become the working model
for biomass in the West
30 1859magazine.com summer 09
written by
photographs by
Libby Tucker
Boone Speed
Out of the Woods
Will Hatcher of the Klamath Tribes contemplates
a bold scheme that would bring green energy and
sustainable jobs.
Small Diameter, Big Hopes
The future site of the Giiwas Green Energy Park, which the Tribes hope
will become a biomass solution to forest management and provide
sustainable energy.
Along milepost 224 heading north
Winema National Forest. After 80 years of
through Klamath County, sits an abandoned
sawmill that’s become the hope for
economic revitalization in south central
Oregon and perhaps a sustainable energy
paradigm throughout the western states.
The dilapidated sawmill is a curious sight among the millions of acres
of trees in the adjacent Fremont-Winema National Forest. Lodgepole
pine trees, an invasive species here, grow thick around a smattering of
Ponderosa pines, and the stands are choked to the canopy with foliage.
Twenty-five miles south, another isolated lot near Chiloquin comprises
some of the few remaining acres still owned by the Klamath
Tribes after the loss of their reservation through a treaty with the federal
government more than 50 years ago. In his office at the tribal administration
building, natural resources director Will Hatcher stands
near a wall-sized map of Klamath County and traces his finger along the
former boundary of his ancestral lands. The Klamath, Modoc and Yahooskin
people, now known collectively as the Klamath Tribes, owned
880,000 acres, nearly the whole map, until Congress terminated the
Tribe’s status in 1956 and liquidated the Klamath Reservation. Now,
even after regaining its status in 1986, the Tribes own only a few thousand
acres, including the old mill site, less than a fingertip of property.
About 14 percent of the Klamath Reservation was sold by the federal
government to private logging companies, while the rest became
selective logging and fire suppression, the
forest harbors few old-growth Ponderosa
stands, is overgrown with lodgepole pines,
and is vulnerable to wildfires and disease.
What’s left isn’t worth harvesting, and most
of the region’s sawmills have closed. Still, the
mill site is the center of the Klamath Tribe’s
impressive strategy to regain economic selfsufficiency.
"We’re trying to create a marketetable
solution for the problem with the forests around here locally and
throughout the West: too many small-diameter trees that have no
commercial value,” says Hatcher. “Those trees are creating huge problems
for our forests.” Hatcher grew up in the Klamath Basin and began
his career in forest management nearly 40 years ago with the U.S. Forest
Service. He’s now overseeing the Tribes’ plan to restore the forest.
The Tribes hope to buy back all of the former reservation lands,
starting with the 108-acre Crater Lake Mill Site that they bought last
November. Here they plan to build the Giiwas Green Energy Park, an
industrial operation to collect biomass from overgrown forestlands,
and use it to fuel a cogeneration plant and wood products business.
This project could serve as a model for other rural communities and
Native American tribes, and help open federal lands to a renewable
source of energy. The plan would create about 35 jobs for tribal members
and other county residents collecting woody biomass in the forest,
operating the plant, and manufacturing wood chips, firewood,
small posts and poles, according to the South Central Oregon Economic
Development District.
summer 09 1859 oregon's magazine 33
“The Tribes have been the biggest loser
in the basin for 150 years,” says James Honey,
a Klamath Basin program director with Sustainable
Northwest, a nonprofit involved in
negotiating a settlement agreement with the
Tribes over water rights in the Klamath Basin.
“We need to provide new economic opportunities
for tribal and rural people.”
a model for the West
THE SITUATION IS FAMILIAR THROUGHOUT THE WESTERN
United States where boarded-up sawmills or those left idle during the
recent economic downturn are found near vast swaths of public lands
on which overgrown forests have become vulnerable to wildfires and
disease. Fire spreads quickly in the underbrush and up into the midsized
trees, which act as a ladder that spreads the fire into the highest
level of the canopy and grills the most mature trees. By removing
the smaller trees and some of the undergrowth leftover from logging
– known as “slash” – forest managers can help prevent catastrophic
wildfires and restore healthy tree growth. The Forest Service, however,
doesn’t have the budget to restore all federal forestland, and there’s simply
no financial gain to harvesting the small-diameter wood.
“We’ve got forest slums on our hands,” says David Sjoding, a renewable
resources specialist with the Washington State University Extension
Energy Program, a group working with Northwest Congressional
leaders to develop forest management plans that incorporate tree thinning
for renewable energy development.
Biomass produced on forest lands in the western U.S. has the potential
to generate some 2,230 megawatts of renewable energy, or about
the equivalent of the energy produced by four typical coal-fired power
plants, according to the Western Governors’ Association. Biomass is
essentially solar energy stored in plants. It is burned to heat water to
create steam that then drives a turbine and generates electricity that
can be used on site or sold to utilities. The excess heat can also supplant
coal and natural gas in wood products manufacturing, such as paper
mills and pulp, in a process called cogeneration. Generating power from
“We’re trying to create a
marketable solution for the
problem with the forests
around here locally and
throughout the West: too
many small-diameter
trees that have no
commercial value.”
WILL HATCHER, NATURAL RESOURCES
DIRECTOR FOR THE KLAMATH TRIBES
biomass still releases carbon dioxide into the
atmosphere, and so the U.S. and international
carbon markets consider biomass “green” energy
only if plants are grown to recapture the
carbon dioxide and replace the biomass that
is combusted.
Burning wood is one the oldest forms of
energy production but, as a commercial venture,
biomass plants are largely untested. To justify a significant investment
in new equipment, training and land, biomass developers need to
be sure the forest holds enough woody residue to provide a fuel supply
for at least 20 years. In 2007, an Oregon Department of Energy study
found 1.1 million acres of forest eligible for restoration within 75 miles
of Klamath Falls, 27 miles south of Chiloquin, with a potential for producing
150 megawatts of electricity and creating 900 jobs in the area.
But the numbers are only an estimate. It’s unclear exactly how much
biomass forestland can produce or even how to sustainably manage a
forest in order to guarantee future supplies.
“My problem is, I don’t trust experts; our ignorance exceeds our
knowledge in anything, be it love, or energy or the way we interact with
the natural world,” says Tom Chester, director of the Renewable Energy
Center at the Oregon Institute of Technology in Klamath Falls. The Renewable
Energy Center is working with the Klamath Tribes to develop a
feasibility study for the Giiwas project. “Maybe we need to thin forests,
but do we know that for sure? I see the world in gray.”
Despite the uncertainty and risk, tribes and rural communities
throughout the West that had been considering renewable energy projects
are now rushing to file applications for federal funding to turn existing
and abandoned sawmills into biomass projects, says Bob Middleton,
director of the Office of Energy and Economic Development for the U.S.
Bureau of Indian Affairs. He estimates the number of tribes requesting
his department’s assistance in developing biomass facilities has doubled
since last year. Renewable energy development is a funding priority in
federal budgets under the new Obama administration. A three-year
extension of tax credits for renewable energy projects is included in
the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act to spur job creation and
summer 09 1859 oregon's magazine 35
“Pairing forest restoration with electricity production
from biomass is a solution that provides a 'double
opportunity' for economic development.”
Bob Middleton, director of the Office of Energy and eConomic
DeveloPMent for the U.S. Bureau of Indian Affairs
Power Generations
Amelia Louriero, 58, and Marcie
Fischer, 14, of the Klamath Tribes.
Louriero returned to Klamath Falls
years after her parents had moved
her and her siblings to San Francisco
for work. She is optimistic about
jobs in the Tribes' biomass project.
Marcie Fischer, too, hopes there are
enough jobs for her to stay close to
her Klamath Falls home.
combat climate change. Pairing forest restoration with electricity production
from biomass is a solution that provides a “double opportunity”
for economic development, Middleton says.
“You do fuels reduction to decrease the forest fire danger but use
that slash to drive a biomass plant, either for local cogeneration or to
generate some electricity,” says Middleton. “But the economics really depend
on how much land you have. You need adequate fuel stocks within
25 to 30 miles of your operation.”
Communities historically centered on forest products and located
close to public lands are ideal candidates for biomass projects. The
Warm Springs and Umatilla tribes in Oregon and the town of Lakeview,
100 miles southeast of Chiloquin in Lake County, all have biomass
plants in the works. They’re starting to reverse the decades-long
consolidation of small, locally-owned mills that were bought by large
timber companies aiming to maximize profits with harvests of mature
trees. The rural economies are returning to an old model of smaller
scale, locally-owned mills and small power plants close to where the
energy is used, right on the land, according to Sustainable Northwest.
36 1859magazine.com summer 09
1826 First contact with European settlers
when Peter Skeen Ogden led a group of Hudson
Bay fur trappers through the area. During this
era, all of the Tribes’ food, clothing, and shelter
came from the land.
1864 The Klamath Tribes entered into
the Treaty of 1864 with the U.S., ceding
approximately 20 million acres of land and reserving approximately
2.5 million acres of land as the Klamath Reservation. Due to erroneous
surveys and other land cessions, the land base was reduced to 1.1 million
acres. Later 220,000 acres were lost to the Dawes Act allotment process.
1873 The U.S. Supreme Court ruled that the Tribes could not harvest
timber on their lands. The court ruled that the timber belonged to the
United States.
1953 Congress passed House Concurrent Resolution 108 calling for the
termination of federal relations and services with all Indian tribes in the
United States.
1954 Congress passed Public Law 587, ending federal supervision
and services to the Klamath Tribes, though the Tribes rejected the
Termination Act. Congress liquidated all tribal assets including the land
and divided the proceeds from the sale to the members of the Tribe
who chose to withdraw. The reservation lands were acquired by the
United States to establish the Winema National Forest. Approximately
1/7 of the land was sold to private interests.
1973 The Tribes file Kimball v. Callahan to reaffirm their right to hunt,
fish, trap, and gather on former reservation lands. As a result of the
Tribes’ success in this lawsuit, the U.S. Forest Service changed its timber
harvest practices to consider fish and wildlife habitat.
1986 Public Law 99-398 restores the Klamath Tribes’ rights as a
federally recognized Indian tribe. The Tribes develop an economic
development plan centered on the return of all former reservation
lands owned by the federal government and establish an economic
development commission to assist with the venture.
1997 The Tribes first economic development project, Kla-Mo-Ya Casino,
opens near Chiloquin.
2000 The Tribes complete their economic self-sufficiency plan,
choosing forest management as the centerpiece of their effort.
2008 Klamath Tribes purchase the Crater Lake Mill Site for the
development of the Giiwas Green Enterprise Park.
2008 Tribes sign an option agreement to buy the 90,000-acre Mazama
Tree Farm on former Klamath Reservation lands.
Klamath Tribes
Timeline
Sources: The Klamath Tribes Economic Self-Sufficiency Plan;
Klamath Heartlands: A Guide to the Klamath Reservation Forest Plan
“The potential of that site is enormous. Acquiring
it gives the Tribes a huge opportunity to start
creating a forest-based economy once again."
Jeff Mitchell, Klamath Tribes chairman
and economic development manager
A Plan to Buy Land
The plan is riSKier for the Klamath Tribes, which is
the only Oregon tribe that owns virtually no land and the only tribe in
the United States with a national forest on its former reservation. In
Klamath County, where 80 percent of the land is forested, the Tribes
are surrounded by land they can’t legally harvest without a stewardship
contract from the Forest Service. The 2004 Tribal Forest Protection
Act allows tribes to sign contracts with the Forest Service, but only if
they own land that borders directly on federal forestlands. The Klamath
Tribes’ plan hinges on its ability to buy enough land to stage a trial, but
also to recruit and train personnel.
“The project is simple in concept but complicated to implement,”
says Larry Swan, a forest products and economic development specialist
with the Fremont-Winema National Forest. “The Tribes need to
build their management capacity and business experience—not to mention,
someone’s gotta fund it.”
Just across the highway from the proposed Giiwas Green Energy
Park site is the 90,000-acre Mazama Tree Farm, a privately-owned commercial
logging site in the northwest corner of the former Klamath Reservation
with a 50-mile border with federal forestland – a good-sized
plot on Hatcher’s map. Owner Fidelity National Financial, a real estate
investment trust, has largely cleared the land of merchantable timber,
and the company is now in negotiations to sell the land back to the
Klamath Tribes. The deal is part of the Klamath Basin settlement agreement
in which the federal government has agreed to give the Klamath
Tribes $21 million toward the purchase of the Mazama tract in exchange
for concessions on the Tribes’ water rights. The Tribes have until
this fall to finalize the deal or the property hits the open market.
“The potential of that site is enormous,” says Jeff Mitchell, Klamath
Tribes chairman and the driving force behind its economic development
effort. “Acquiring it gives the Tribes a huge opportunity to start
creating a forest-based economy once again.”
Regaining a significant portion of the former ancestral lands would
provide a foundation for the Tribes’ new biomass-based economy, but
it’s just one more step needed to meet their long-term goal of achieving
self-sufficiency. Restoring the forest to harvest sawmill lumber would
take about 40 years, and collecting a sustainable supply of biomass will
take 20 to 25 years of forest growth. The Tribes must “think and plan
generationally,” says Hatcher. A new $1.4 million recovery act grant announced
by the Forest Service in May will help train tribal members in
forest thinning and establish management crews. The money will help
build the Tribes’ capacity to bid on federal forest stewardship contracts
while they work out the financing to grow their own land base.
To the Tribes, the purchase of the Mazama Tree Farm and the development
of the Giiwas Green Enterprise Park also represent something
bigger. Employment with the Tribes is limited right now to work at the
tribal administrative offices, at one of the health clinics or at the Tribes’
Kla-Mo-Ya casino.
With the return of their ancestral lands, which are considered a gift
from their creator, gmoc’am’c, and the center of their spiritual and cultural
identity, the Klamath Tribes can once again work in the forest as
their ancestors did. They can help restore the forests to a healthier condition
and contribute to a modern economy that’s creating new markets
for sustainable wood products and generating renewable
energy.
Hatcher asks, “How can a sovereign nation exist
without land?”
Travel is our way of acquiring our own
stories to tell—extending and enriching
our autobiographies. From the stately
peaks of the Wallowa Mountains to Oregon’s
free-spirited coast, Oregon holds a tome’s
worth of chapters to make your own. But as any
seasoned traveler knows, where you stay is as
much a part of the experience as the sites you see
and the people you meet.
That’s where these storied hotels, lodges and inns
come in.
Some of these properties, such as the Tu Tu’ Tun
Lodge or Black Walnut Inn, indulge guests with
world-class hospitality in out-of-this-world locations.
The Timberline Lodge and the Ashland
Springs Hotel ooze Oregon history, while the Cannery
Pier Hotel and McMenamin’s Old St. Francis
School offer top-notch lodging in novel locations.
One thing that you’re guaranteed with these 12
hotels is a unique, comfortable experience that
promises to set the scene for your next Oregon
adventure.
40 1859magazine.com summer 09
Cannery Pier Hotel
The hotel, which opened in 2005, pays tribute to its
heritage with a rich photographical history of Astoria’s
unsung heroes of the gillnet fishing industry.
Treat
and
Retreatthat
Oregon hotels
become the story
written by
SARAh MAX
“Pairing forest restoration with electricity production
from biomass is a solution that provides a 'double
opportunity' for economic development.”
Bob Middleton, director of the Office of Energy and eConomic
DeveloPMent for the U.S. Bureau of Indian Affairs
Power Generations
Amelia Louriero, 58, and Marcie
Fischer, 14, of the Klamath Tribes.
Louriero returned to Klamath Falls
years after her parents had moved
her and her siblings to San Francisco
for work. She is optimistic about
jobs in the Tribes' biomass project.
Marcie Fischer, too, hopes there are
enough jobs for her to stay close to
her Klamath Falls home.
combat climate change. Pairing forest restoration with electricity production
from biomass is a solution that provides a “double opportunity”
for economic development, Middleton says.
“You do fuels reduction to decrease the forest fire danger but use
that slash to drive a biomass plant, either for local cogeneration or to
generate some electricity,” says Middleton. “But the economics really depend
on how much land you have. You need adequate fuel stocks within
25 to 30 miles of your operation.”
Communities historically centered on forest products and located
close to public lands are ideal candidates for biomass projects. The
Warm Springs and Umatilla tribes in Oregon and the town of Lakeview,
100 miles southeast of Chiloquin in Lake County, all have biomass
plants in the works. They’re starting to reverse the decades-long
consolidation of small, locally-owned mills that were bought by large
timber companies aiming to maximize profits with harvests of mature
trees. The rural economies are returning to an old model of smaller
scale, locally-owned mills and small power plants close to where the
energy is used, right on the land, according to Sustainable Northwest.
36 1859magazine.com summer 09
McMenamin's Old St. Francis School
Be sure to pack your bathing suit. Father
Luke wouldn’t approve of skinny dipping in
the indoor soaking pool.
FivePine Lodge
The lodge’s Shibui Spa is a destination
of its own. The 6,000-square-foot
sanctuary houses nine treatment
rooms, a thermal soaking tub, Swedish
sauna and a 120-year-old Buddha.
Cannery Pier Hotel Astoria
Architect and Astoria native Robert “Jake” Jacob spent 14 years designing
and building this 46-room boutique hotel on a 100-year-old
pier that was once the site of the Union Fish Cannery (where Jacob’s
father worked in the 1970s). The hotel, which opened in 2005, pays
tribute to that heritage with rich photographical history of Astoria’s
unsung heroes of the gillnet fishing industry. (A thin volume that
tells the history of the area and of the cannery, Fins, Finns and Astorians
by Greg Jacob, is well worth picking up in the gift shop if it’s
not already in your room.) Guests of the Cannery Pier enjoy such
amenities as en-suite fireplaces, claw-foot bath tubs and private
balconies offering some of the best views of the four-mile Astoria-
Megler Bridge and the massive tankers huffing up the mouth of the
Columbia channel. Most rooms in the hotel hover directly over the
Pacific inlet waters, giving guests the feeling of being in the quarters
of a luxury liner sans seasickness. Although downtown Astoria is an
easy walk, the trip is more fun on one of the hotel’s cruiser bikes, or
in a chauffeured ride in its 1939 Buick or 1946 Cadillac.
Info: 888.325.4996/cannerypierhotel.com
McMenamin’s Old St. Francis School Bend
Snoozing in class is encouraged in this 1936 Catholic schoolhouse
turned destination hotel, pub, brewery and movie theater in downtown
Bend. Its parochial past is widely displayed in photographs,
murals and memorabilia. Overnight guests bunk down in one of 19
cozy guestrooms–most of which were once classrooms–or rent one
of four peripheral cottages. Be sure to pack your bathing suit. Father
Luke wouldn’t approve of skinny dipping in the indoor soaking pool.
Info: 877.661.4228/mcmenamins.com
FivePine Lodge Sisters
Rustic luxury is the name of the game at FivePine Lodge, a 35-acre
retreat straddling the town of Sisters and the Deschutes National
Forest. The two-year-old lodge is the brainchild of Bill and Zoe
Willits and their son, Greg, who set out to build a “sustainable
campus” that promotes health, balance and adventure. Stay in one
of the eight cozy rooms in the main lodge or opt for one of the 24
detached cottage suites tucked among towering Ponderosa pines.
Handmade Mission-style furniture, fireplaces, waterfall tubs and
plush pillowtop beds come standard in every room. Walk to downtown
Sisters to explore shops and restaurants or hop on the Peterson
Ridge Trail for 17 miles of single-track mountain biking, hiking
or trail running. Guests have full access to the Sisters Athletic
Club, which includes an indoor lap pool, hot tub and full workout
facilities. The lodge’s Shibui Spa is a destination of its own.
The 6,000-square-foot sanctuary houses nine treatment rooms, a
thermal soaking tub, a Swedish sauna and a 120-year-old Buddha.
Info: 866.974.5900/fivepinelodge.com
Hotel Modera Portland
Opened in 2008, this 174-room hotel near Portland’s historic South
Park Blocks is a case study in urban renewal. What was once a
run-down Days Inn is now a Mid-Century Modern boutique hotel
that is as hospitable as it is hip. Guest provisions include plush
linens, Italian toiletries and cozy bathrobes. One of the property’s
best features is its outdoor zen-like courtyard with a 63-foot-long
leafy living wall tucked between the lobby and the new Nel Centro
restaurant. Info: 877.484.1084/hotelmodera.com
See icon index on page 48
42 1859magazine.com summer 09
Hotel Modera
The lobby of Hotel Modera has a clean
and modern look. You can walk to any
event from here, but you might just want
to hang out in the outdoor zen courtyard.
44 1859magazine.com summer 09
Ashland Springs Hotel
While all of the historic features, such as the original
terrazzo floors and Mica chandeliers, put the hotel on the
National Register of Historic Places, the hotel’s 70 rooms
are continuously updated and stocked with such creature
comforts as Italy’s fine Frette linens, flat-screen televisions,
and Gilchrist & Soames bath products.
The Nines
And while no one would guess
at first sight, the luxuriously
appointed hotel may soon be one
of only a handful of U.S. hotels to
obtain a silver LEED rating from
the U.S. Green Building Council.
Ashland Springs Hotel Ashland
When it was built in 1925, the nine-story Lithia Springs Hotel, as
it was called then, was the tallest building between Portland and
San Francisco and a popular stopping point for well-heeled travelers.
The hotel, which is just steps from the renown Oregon Shakespeare
Festival, changed hands many times over the next 70 years and was
shuttered in 1997. Then in 1998, Ashland residents Doug and Becky
Neuman bought the building and spent two years restoring the Oregon
landmark to its original grandeur–with some modern additions.
While all of the historic features, such as the original terrazzo
floors and Mica chandeliers, put the hotel on the National Register
of Historic Places, the hotel’s 70 rooms are continuously updated and
stocked with such creature comforts as Italy’s fine Frette linens, flatscreen
televisions, and Gilchrist & Soames bath products. The hotel’s
Larks-Home Kitchen Cuisine specializes in “farm to table” comfort
food including homemade meatloaf and maple-glazed pork chops.
Info: 888.795.4545/ashlandspringshotel.com
The Nines Portland
The top nine floors of the historic Meier & Frank department store
building across from Pioneer Square is an unlikely location for one of
Portland’s most posh hotels, and that’s just the point. This 331-room
hotel, which opened in late 2008 following a $115 million renovation,
is full of surprises. Its lobby resides inside a sunny seven-story
atrium sunk in the middle of this block-long building, giving guests
of the interior rooms an ideal perch for people-watching. The rooms
pair Louis XVI-inspired armchairs with modern faux-leather headboards
and linens. And while no one would guess at first sight, the
luxuriously appointed property may soon be one of only a handful of
U.S. hotels to obtain a silver LeeD rating from the U.S. Green Building
Council. Even the art has a story to tell; no mass-produced prints on
these walls. Nationally-renowned arts manager, Paige Powell, commissioned
local artists to sculpt and paint original artwork displayed
throughout the hotel.
Info: 877.229.9995/starwoodhotels.com/thenines
summer 09 1859 oregon's magazine 45
The Black Walnut Inn & Vineyard
The nine-suite inn melds Old-World artistry with
all the accoutrements of a modern boutique hotel
and the ambience of a working winery.
Timberline Lodge
Set up base camp in a bunk room, enjoy a romantic getaway in a
fireplace suite or invite the whole family for a weekend at the Silcox
Hut, a 24-person cabin located above the lodge at 7,000 feet.
The Black Walnut Inn & Vineyard Dundee
In 2002, native Oregonians Karen and Neal Utz collaborated with their
son, Portland Culinary Institute-trained chef Kris Utz, to build this
Tuscan-style villa, which sits on 42 acres of private forest, orchards
and vineyards in the Red Hills of Dundee. The nine-suite inn melds
Old-World artistry with all the accoutrements of a modern boutique
hotel and ambience of a working winery. (Next year marks the first
release of the Black Walnut Inn & Vineyards' Pinot noir.) Guests are
treated to gourmet breakfasts, afternoon refreshments and awe-inspiring
views. Despite its private setting, the inn is an ideal jumpingoff
point for touring Willamette Valley’s wine country. There are more
than 100 wineries within a 20-minute drive.
Info: 866.429.4114/blackwalnut-inn.com
46 1859magazine.com summer 09
The Bronze Antler
Bed & Breakfast
After a morning feast
that might include
farm-fresh eggs, onions
sautéed with apples
and caraway seeds, and
tomatoes with herbs de
Provence, visitors can
wander Joseph’s art
galleries and boutiques,
hike to nearby Wallowa
Lake or hop on the
Wallowa Lake Tramway
for a 3,700-foot climb up
Mt. Howard.
Photo Marcus Berg
Timberline Lodge Government Camp
Movie buffs know this National Historic Landmark as the exterior set
for the 1980 thriller “The Shining,” and history buffs know it as one
of the more ambitious projects to come out of Franklin D. Roosevelt's
New Deal. Yet, the 1930s-era lodge, with its rough-cut stones and exposed
timbers, is impressive even without the back story. Set up base
camp in a bunk room, enjoy a romantic getaway in a fireplace suite or
invite the whole family for a weekend at the Silcox Hut, a 24-person
cabin located above the lodge at 7,000 feet. Wednesdays throughout
August, you can catch the free Timberline Mountain Music Series
with some of the West’s best bluegrass and folk performers.
Info: 503.272.3311/timberlinelodge.com
The Bronze Antler Bed & Breakfast Joseph
Innkeepers Heather Tyreman and Bill Finney like to say their 1925
Craftsman bungalow is a “no frills” bed and breakfast. The reason:
no lace. While the inn may be short on chintz, it isn’t lacking in
amenities. Its four suites are softened with down comforters and
pillows, high-thread-count linens and soaking tubs. Napping, says
Tyreman, is a favorite pastime among guests. That isn’t, however, for
lack of other things to do. After a morning feast that might include
farm-fresh eggs, onions sautéed with apples and caraway seeds,
and tomatoes with herbes de Provence, visitors can wander Joseph’s
art galleries and boutiques, hike to nearby Wallowa Lake or hop on
the Wallowa Lake Tramway for a 3,700-foot climb up Mt. Howard.
After a day out and about, refuel with the inn’s signature Guittard
chocolate fudge brownies.
Info: 866.520.9769/bronzeantler.com 12+
summer 09 1859 oregon's magazine 47
Hotel Modera
The lobby of Hotel Modera has a clean
and modern look. You can walk to any
event from here, but you might just want
to hang out in the outdoor zen courtyard.
Ashland Springs Hotel
While all of the historic features, such as the original
terrazzo floors and Mica chandeliers, put the hotel on the
National Register of Historic Places, the hotel’s 70 rooms
are continuously updated and stocked with such creature
comforts as Italy’s fine Frette linens, flat-screen televisions,
and Gilchrist & Soames bath products.
Stephanie Inn
The calming effect
of the ocean can be
greatly enhanced at
the Stephanie Inn's
new spa.
Stephanie Inn Cannon Beach
Just steps from the beach and with up-close views of the 250-foothigh
Haystack Rock, the Stephanie Inn has long been one of the
places to stay on the Oregon coast. And a recent $5 million headto-toe
update makes this classic Cannon Beach getaway that much
more compelling. All 41 of the inn’s rooms and suites have been
revamped with new décor and fully-renovated bathrooms. Another
notable addition: The hotel’s new spa includes two treatment rooms,
each with steam shower, Finnish sauna and jetted soaking tub. A
good place to curl up with a book and a glass of wine, the inn’s renowned
reading room was renovated for comfort.
Info: 800.633.3466/stephanie-inn.com 12+
Excelsior Inn Eugene
In 1993, Chef Maurizio Paparo revamped this circa 1912 University
of Oregon sorority house into a European-style restaurant and
inn. Paparo, who is a stickler for using local ingredients in his native
Italian cuisine, also pulled in local artists to create the stained
glass and iron work that add authenticity to the Excelsior’s Old
World décor. The inn’s 14 rooms, meanwhile, are decked out with
marble and tile bathrooms, cherry furniture and soft linens. The
effect is classic yet comfortable, like a good home-cooked meal.
Info: 800.321.6963/excelsiorinn.com
Tu Tu' Tun Lodge gold beach
The Tu Tu' Tun Lodge (pronounced too-TOOT-in) takes its name
from the indigenous Tututni, known as the "people by the water."
And, no doubt, a visit to this retreat on Rogue River–where Chinook
salmon run in the spring and fall, and steelhead run in the
summer and winter–is all about the water. All of the lodge’s 16
rooms and two suites have river views, and many have fireplaces
and outdoor soaking tubs. A hot breakfast du jour, as well as a
hearty spread of homemade muffins, granola and local berries,
awaits guests in the morning. In the evening, you can partake in
the lodge’s own take on a Northwest Indian “potlatch,” which is
likely to include a mesquite-grilled catch of the day and the inn’s
signature hot lemon-cranberry popovers. There’s more to the
lodge, of course, than eating and sleeping. Take one of the lodge’s
sea kayaks to explore the Rogue on your own, or hire a guide and
head upstream into the Wild and Scenic section of the river, which
is not only home to some of the best fly-fishing in the country, it’s
a great place to spy eagles, osprey, otters and the occasional bear.
Info: 800.864.6357/tututun.com
Historic hotel Restaurant Complimentary breakfast
Fitness center 12+ Kids age 12 and older
City/Cultural
Outdoorsy Swimming pool Evening wine
Spa Beach Pet friendly
48 1859magazine.com summer 09
Tu Tu' Tun Lodge
A visit to this retreat on the Rogue River –
where Chinook salmon run in the spring and
fall, and steelhead run in the summer and
winter – is all about the water.
What I'm Working On interview by Kevin Max photo by Rick Schafer
A Heretical Mind
once Known As An UnorthodoX cAncer reseArcher, ohsU's dr. BriAn drUKer
hAs Become centrAl to cAncer therApy And the hope For A cUre
Brian Druker runs up the steep approach of Marquam
Hill to OHSU nearly every morning from his home in
southwest Portland. For many Oregonians, this feat
alone would be a daunting task. For the 54-year-old doctor,
whose fringe approach to leukemia research is now the center
of the search for a cure, running is the transportation mode that
keeps his brain most active.
Dr. Druker, now the director of the Knight Cancer Institute
at Oregon Health Sciences University, left Harvard University,
where he was an instructor and researcher, for Portland in
1993. At OHSU, Druker revolutionized cancer treatment with
his targeted therapy encapsulated in $3-billion-a-year Gleevec,
which all but cured chronic myeloid leukemia and threw open
the doors to developing new therapies for other types of cancer.
With a generous gift of $100 million from Nike's Phil and
Penny Knight in October 2008, Druker's aim now is to recruit
the top researchers to OHSU, to discover more targeted treatments
for cancer, to create a biotech infrastructure to test and
commercialize billion-dollar drugs and to put Oregon at the
center of the cure.
1859's editor, Kevin Max, caught up with Dr. Druker to talk
about these implications for cancer patients and for Oregon.
50 1859magazine.com SUMMER 09
Did you always know you had a
vocation for medicine?
it’s one of those areas where i thought i'd end up,
if i were really honest with myself. There was a lot
of pressure in my family for someone to end up in
medicine. i was the youngest of four, and none of
the other siblings went into medicine.
What brought you to OHSU?
There were several factors. With recruiting,
there’s the push and the pull. The push was that
at harvard, the administration didn’t believe in
the approach i was taking, so there wasn’t much
of a future for me there. i started looking for
a place with a commitment to cancer research
and a great place to live. grover Bagby, then the
director of ohSu’s nascent Cancer institute,
believed in what i was doing.
Tell me about the life of Gleevec since
it came out commercially in 2001. What
has changed?
The most important aspect is that patients with
this kind of leukemia had a three- to five-year
life expectancy. gleevec took a disease that was
fatal and now 95% of patients taking gleevec are
alive and well at five years. The average life expectancy
of these patients is 30 years. The most
important thing about this is that it has saved
hundreds of thousands of lives and completely
transformed the way we think about cancer.
Cancer treatment centers used to treat everything
with various different kinds of painful
chemotherapy. after gleevec, everything they
have in their arsenal is a targeted therapy. it has
completely changed the way that every major
drug company thinks about cancer.
What does the $100 million Knight gift
do for OHSU?
This will transform our ability to care for cancer
patients in oregon and transform our research
capabilities. The reality is that a breakthrough
like gleevec has a global impact and can save
hundreds of thousands of lives. our goal is to
create an environment where these types of
breakthroughs become commonplace.
You have a wish list of your own.
What else would you consider crucial
but yet absent in the formation of a
top cancer institute?
We still need more people, and over the next five
to 10 years, you’ll see an influx of talent into oregon
because of the Knight gift. But, i view the
Knight gift as a beginning not an end. We will
still need more funding to accomplish our goals,
and as people see our progress, i am certain that
they will want to be part of our winning team.
What i’d also like to see is the biotech industry
growing in parallel with the Knight institute to
help us develop and commercialize our research.
What are you currently working on?
our own research is focused on three areas.
a small percentage of patients have become
resistant to gleevec, and we’re working on
developing new treatments for those patients.
also, gleevec is able to control leukemia
as long as people stay on this therapy
but unable to eradicate it outright. We’re
thinking about whether there is something
we can add to gleevec to make it a true cure.
lastly, it took 25 years to identify the target
for gleevec. We now have the ability to identify
new targets in other leukemias in two to
three months. if you can identify a target, it
allows you to develop a drug like gleevec to
alleviate and eradicate it.
gleevec is a $3-billion-a-year-drug. imagine
what we could do identifying molecular targets
in two to three months, then developing
drugs like gleevec to target these abnormalities,
and what 20 drugs like gleevec would
mean for oregon.
You’re also working in some role with
Portland venture capitalist John Hull in
his new early-stage fund, Marquam Hill
Capital. What is the goal of that fund?
We have an opportunity to do something that’s
unique. Typically, biotech companies license
ideas or technologies from universities for commercialization,
but there is very little interaction
between the company and the university.
“If we’re set up with the right infrastructure,
There could be 20 Gleevecs coming out of
OHSU, not just one. That’s real leveraging.”
imagine instead if you established a set of companies
that collaborated closely with our cancer
institute, working on projects that would assist
the cancer institute with the commercialization
process. as an example, if our lab identifies
a new target for cancer therapy, the biotech
company would then develop a drug that my lab
could test and our cancer institute would run
the initial clinical trials.
drug discovery and clinical trials require tens of
millions of dollars. no university can fund that.
That’s best done by private industry, but we can
partner with industry to make this happen more
quickly, efficiently and economically.
Your gift lies in research. Why not spend
all your time in lab?
The way that i view it is the way former ohSu
president Peter Kohler used to introduce
me: “This is Brian druker, and he discovered
gleevec, and we think he’s got another gleevec
in him.” My mission is to recruit other scientists
and give them the resources and support
to revolutionize cancer treatments. if we’re set
up with the right infrastructure, there could be
20 gleevecs coming out of ohSu, not just one.
That’s real leveraging.
SUMMER 09 1859 OREGON'S MAGAZINE 51
From Where I Stand
written and photrgaphed by Bob Woodward
Union, Oregon
An insider's perspective on small-town Oregon in the Grande Ronde vAlley
Sue Briggs loves Union. “It's the mix of people, the sense of safety, the look
and feel of the place and the slow pace of life that make this town so wonderful," she says.
Located in the Grande Ronde Valley between the Blue Mountains to the west and the
Wallowas to the east, Union is small-town America.
"I know the appeal of the
natural surroundings
here, with the Wallowa
and Blue mountains,
and Hell's Canyon so
close by. But even more
so, I appreciate the fact
that Union is in Eastern
Oregon's banana belt."
Sue Briggs
Geologists muse that many of the rocky features west of Union were created between 13 and
14 years million ago, when lava shot through cinder cones on the western side of the Wallowa
Mountains. Lava flowed slowly leaving behind grey layered monuments and fertile volcanic soil
for farming.
Modern history of the Grande Ronde Valley found the Nez Perce and Umatilla tribes trading
goods along the Oregon Trail. After it was founded in 1862, the town continued its reputation
as a trade hub for goods, with supplies bound for Baker City miners coming off boats on the
Columbia River.
Today, Union (population 1,960) is called "The City of Victorian Heritage" after its cluster of
Victorian era homes along Main Street. Classic brick buildings in its downtown core area, like
the Union Hotel and the bus barn at the end of Main Street, are listed on the National Register of
Historic Buildings making Union quintessential small town Oregon.
Briggs, who lives two doors down from the historic post office in a house built in 1879, has
been a local for more than four decades. She served as Union's mayor (its first female mayor)
from 1992 to 2000, and is currently on the city council, and the town's economic development
and tourism committees.
Attracted by the town's obvious charm, retirees are Union’s primary growth hormone. “Prior
to this, the last influx of new people was during the late '70s early '80s real estate boom in Cali-
U N I O N
Did you know Union ...
Was founded in 1862, getting its name from
local support for the Union Army cause
during the Civil War.
Is home to the 102-year-old Eastern Oregon
Livestock Show and Rodeo, the longest
continuous running event of its type in the
state.
Is called "The City of Victorian Heritage"
for its stately old homes and well-kept
graveyard.
Alternated with La Grande as the Union
County seat until 1905 when La Grande
became the permanent seat.
Is a main stop on Highway 203, aka the
"back way", between La Grande and Baker
City and one of Oregon's most scenic road
bike routes.
Is home to the National Historical Register
listed Union Hotel, a little spooky at times,
whose annual haunted house Halloween
event draws thousands of participants from
across Oregon.
52 1859magazine.com summer 09
Tu Tu' Tun Lodge
A visit to this retreat on the Rogue River –
where Chinook salmon run in the spring and
fall, and steelhead run in the summer and
winter – is all about the water.
Crater Lake NP
Location: Northeast Oregon in the
Grande Ronde Valley, between the
Blue and Wallowa mountains
Population: 1,960
Industry: Farming, government,
manufacturing, retail, Internet-based
companies
Median household income: $28,529
Median home price: $110,400
Cost of living: 22% lower than U.S. average
Recreation: Hiking, fishing, mountain/road biking, horseback riding
What to do: Wander the Union County Museum; ride horseback,
camp and fish at Catherine Creek State Park; windsurf at Thief Valley
Reservoir; kick back at the historic Hot Lake Springs Resort; ski at
Anthony Lakes Mountain Resort or the Meacham Divide Cross-
Country Ski Area
Sources: PSU Population Research Center, National Relocation
@ 919 Bond
Private dining at 919 Bond
Learn, Socialize, Relax
Cooking Classes Included
Live Music Available
fornia when people sold out there for outrageous prices and moved here
to enjoy small town living,” Briggs notes.
Oregon's ethic of innovation and sustainability is pervasive, even in
the tiny, remote Union. Today, the treated effluent from its sewage treatment
plant is used to water the grass of its new Buffalo Peak golf course,
formerly a town dump.
Buffalo Peak is but one example of how Union is changing. “We have
wireless Internet, and with it has come a group of small Internet-based
companies with home offices as far away as Florida,” says Briggs.
But even as new businesses come to town, the community is still anchored
by its traditional farming operations, sawmills and small manufacturing
companies.
The valley is also a compelling tourist attraction. Visitors often tour
the Union County Museum for its popular “Cowboys Now and Then”
displays, dine at Briggs' favorite, the historic Union Hotel and camp out
at Catherine Creek State Park just outside town on Highway 203.
Two new eateries will offer more options to locals and groups like
Cycle Oregon, the week-long September tour of 2,000 cyclists, which
often puts Union on its biking itinerary.
The wider Gande Ronde Valley is a recreation hotspot for top-notch
fishing, rafting, kayaking, horseback riding and hiking.
“I know the appeal of the natural surroundings here, with the Wallowa
and Blue mountains, and Hell's Canyon so close by,” says Briggs.
“But even more so, I appreciate the fact that Union is in Eastern Oregon's
banana belt. We get less fog than surrounding areas, and only
one week of intense heat and intense cold a year. A person can live very
nicely here without ever wanting to leave town. And that's what I like
best about my home town of Union.”
[prior page] Historic downtown; Sue Briggs; Victorian homes in Union
[left clockwise] Union County Museum window; Carnegie library;
gazebo outfitted for Memorial Day; Union resident Stuart Zaugg
and his Model T Ford; a barn detail; a reunion at Catherine Creek
State Park
See Lisa on Cooking Central Oregon Style (On-Demand)
www.lisaglickman.com 541.633.7087
History & Heritage Meet HigH tecHnology
Use our Statewide Interactive Heritage Map to...
Find beautiful trees, informative markers and nearby amenities
Plan Your Historic Adventure! www.oregontic.com
at travel information council we’re all about connections.
Life Edge
Where public
and private domains meet,
a Bend home
on the
56 1859magazine.com summer 09
y Stephanie Boyle Mays
Design
On the western edge of Bend,
where forest and old burn areas
converge, and where a city
park and a private subdivision
meet, sits a modern house nestled into a hill, sheltered against the wind
but open to the sun and mountain views.
“This house is all about siting,” says Christian Gladu, the home’s designer.
“The unspoken rule of the project was answering the question:
How does the house fit into the landscape?”
Gladu collaborated with homeowner Jeff Pickhardt to build the
house. Pickhardt, a partner in Taylor Pickhardt Development, and
Gladu had worked together on other projects and shared the same set
of design priorities. Owner of The Bungalow Company in Bend, Gladu
has worked on custom-home and stock-plan projects in almost every
state. He has also written two books on the bungalow style.
Gladu and Pickhardt set out to design and build an energy efficient
house from materials found in the Northwest. The 4,000-square-foot
house with three bedrooms and 3½-bathrooms was built in 2007, has
photovoltaic panels that provide electricity, heat water, power the radiant
floor heating system and is tied to the grid. In addition, it is built
of insulated concrete forms that not only provide better insulation but
also help absorb sound.
Clad in stucco, rock and Douglas fir, contemporary shapes and angles
are softened by the use of materials endemic to Oregon. Blurring
lines between materials and style, and indoors and outdoors were additional
goals of the designer and homeowner, according to Pickhardt.
SUMMer 09 1859magazine.com 57
Design
One of the greatest
challenges of the
project was making
sure the home
would evolve to meet
Pickhardt’s needs.
A stone wall opens to an interior courtyard that provides a transition
to the front door.
Flexibility was key to the home’s construction. Before the drawings
were put to paper, Gladu drove a stake into the ground and determined
where rooms would be located based on the site orientation. Even then,
there were no guarantees. “Jeff called when they were pouring the footings
and said it didn’t quite line up on Mt. Bachelor, so we dragged those
forms for the bedroom wing around so you could get that view dead on,”
recalls Gladu.
Beyond the flexibility of design, there was the flexibility of use. One
of the greatest challenges of the project was making sure the home
would evolve to meet Pickhardt’s needs. “In the middle of all this, he got
married and started a family. It was interesting to know where he was
going even though he, himself, didn’t know,” says Gladu, “I kept asking
him, 'Where is the Big Wheel going to be parked?'”
In the end, the success of the project is its function for the Pickhardt
family. The attention on materials, efficiency, siting and flexibility is subservient
to that crucial goal. “It’s really simple living,” says Pickhardt,
“and easy to live with and live in.”
Book List
Gladu's design must reads
Books by Christian Gladu
Cradle to Cradle
Remaking the Way We Remake Things
by William McDonough and Michael
Braungart (North Point Press, 2002)
Earth the Sequel
The Race to Reinvent Energy and Stop
Global Warming by Miriam Horn and
Fred Krupp (W.W. Norton & Co., 2009)
The New Bungalow by
Matt Bialecki, Christian Gladu, Jill
Kessenich and Jim McCord (Gibbs
Smith, 2008)
Small Bungalows by Christian
Gladu and Ross Chandler (Gibbs
Smith, 2007)
Bungalow Plans by Christian
Gladu and Christin Gladu (Gibbs
Smith, 2002)
Available at
1859magazine.com/marketplace
A stainless steel circular staircase, built by a local welding company,
leads up to the studio and down to the media room. The master
bath is behind the bedroom and uses the same materials as the rest
of the house to provide continuity in design. Out of view is a cedar
Japanese-style soaking tub.
58 1859magazine.com summer 09
An Asian-style bench is paired with the kitchen’s floating island
in another example of a traditional and modern blending.
Design
An interior courtyard is off the kitchen and behind the library.
All the building’s roof tails were cut by Breedlove Guitars on a
massive router used in the construction of guitars. The designer and
homeowner used Douglas fir paneling on all the walls. Combined
with the fir beamed and paneled ceiling, the wood gives the house
a boat-like feel.
Design Resources
Design
Christian Gladu
541.312.2674
www.thebungalowcompany.com
Builder
Jeff Pickhardt
Taylor Pickhardt Development, LLC
541.318.5735
Concrete
Jason Lindsey
541.749.8110
Heating and Cooling
Cascade Sunworks
503.297.5781 - Portland
541.548.7887 - Redmond
www.sun-works.com
Plaster Walls
American Clay
866.404.1634
www.americanclay.com
Roof Tails
Breedlove Guitars
541.385.8339
www.breedloveguitars.com
Spiral Staircase
Creative Welding
541.408.4985
Stonework
Dave sChuler Masonry
503.706.2872
Tile
Baptista Tile
541.382.9130
www.baptistatile.com
60 1859magazine.com summer 09
Design
Five Lessons from Gladu
If you’re contemplating building a house or an addition,
here are five guidelines you should follow
1. Evaluate your site. Consider the wind, the light and other elements
at different times of day to get a sense of how the house
will function and how you will live in a home on that land.
2. Don’t be afraid to build smaller. Look at functions rather
than rooms. A home office doesn’t need to be big; it can consist
of built-in shelves and a counter for a computer by a window
with a fabulous view. You can save 200 square feet that way.
3. Remember that houses are evolutionary. Be flexible
about how your living situation might change. Consider
the needs, for example, of starting a family, of working at
home, or of becoming an empty-nester or retiree.
4. Spend money on energy efficiency. While you could circle
back later, it’s a lot easier to incorporate energy efficiency
in the design from the beginning. Orient the house with
solar in mind, make sure the roof faces the right way. Deep
overhangs allow solar gain in the winter, and provide
shade in the summer and can save substantial year-round
energy costs.
5. Build your house. A lot of people build with the thought
of a house's eventual sale, but you will be living there
now. Don’t be afraid to make it your own. Someday, if you
sell, there will be someone else out there who shares your
values and will buy it.
ive ive ive ive
n. an award-winning, full-service landscape
designer and contractor specializing in outdoor kitchens,
fireplaces, water features, swimming pools, casitas,
patios and custom faux rock.
An affiliate of OGM, Inc, LCB 5813
LANDSCAPE DESIGNS BY KEVIN SCHAFFER
ARTISAN DESIGN CENTER 20700 CARMEN LOOP #100, BEND 541.383.2551 ARTISANBEND.COM
HUFF RESIDENCE, CENTRAL OREGON ARCHITECTURAL DESIGN: JIM ROZEWSKI GENERAL CONTRACTOR: MELROSE CONSTRUCTION PHOTOGRAPHY: KRISTI ECKBERG
Artist in Residence by Lisa Pounders illustrations by Paul Harris
Paul
Harris
walnut ink and the Lure of
simpler Times
As long as he can remember, Paul Harris has had a
passion for doodling and drawing. A Central Oregon native,
Harris left the state for a short time to attend college. Returning
in 2000 with a teaching degree, he worked first at Mount
Bachelor Academy and now fills in as the science teacher at Crook County
Middle School. Though he enjoys teaching, his passion is art.
Currently he's inspired by an obsession for desert life and the romantic
lure of simpler but tougher times. “I’m infatuated with walnut
drawing ink,” he says. “It’s a natural ink that behaves more like watercolor
than, say, India ink.” The characteristic sepia-tones of walnut ink
imbue each piece with an old-fashioned weathered look—precisely the
effect Harris seeks. “I want to transport you back to a time of simpler
pleasures and the manual labor lifestyle.” His subject matter includes
weathered tractors, old ghost towns and faces that time and labor made
stern. The drawings evoke a nostalgic mood while depicting the rugged
environment and its inhabitants.
Harris lives in Prineville with his wife and four daughters in a house
he built by hand. The upper floor is devoted to his painting and drawing.
Along with teaching and family time, Harris pursues his artistic muse
either at 4 in the morning or after 9 at night. “When I start to work, I
lock myself away up there and don’t come out for hours.”
62 1859magazine.com summer 09
"I want to transport
you back to a time
of simpler pleasures
and the manual labor
lifestyle."
summer 09 1859magazine.com 63
Home Grown
by Cathy Carroll
The
Marionberry
Oregon's native son, the marionberry shows its pedigree
with a burst of versatility
Bred at Oregon State University,
the marionberry is named after Marion
County, where it was tested extensively in
the 1940s and '50s before being introduced
commercially in 1956.
There are faster and more modern alternatives,
but Leonard Heidt, 60, still prefers to plant his
marionberry vines by hand.
“I’m up and down on my knees for 1,500 of
those,” he says. “What else would I do?" This is how I started.
I decided I didn’t want to be a 'pickup [truck] farmer' – a
farmer who drives around. I like working in the ground too
much.”
Introduced by George F. Waldo, who worked for the U.S.
Department of Agriculture in Corvallis, the marionberry has
been called the “cabernet of blackberries” for its complex, rich
earthy flavor. This particular berry also has an Oregon heritage.
Bred at Oregon State University, the marionberry is named after
Marion County, where it was tested extensively in the 1940s
and '50s before being introduced commercially in 1956.
Sixteen years after the marionberry was introduced, Heidt,
then 23, bought 35 acres in Mt. Angel and began growing loganberries,
strawberries and other varieties. Those berries
weren’t profitable, and they were prone to diseases and harvesting
problems. The standout was the marionberry.
“I like the way they pick and the flavor of them,” Heidt says.
“They are high quality berries as far as blackberries go.”
On this day in May, Heidt pauses in the field, surrounded by
the hand-planted bushes. “Everybody looks for the ideal dream
life, and this is mine,” says Heidt. “Some people like to fish and
golf. I don’t.”
After growing marionberries for 36 years, Heidt knows the
optimal time and temperature for berry picking: touch a berry
and it drops from the plant. In your mouth, the ripe marionberry
bursts with a sublime balance of tartness and sweetness.
Come July, these berries ripen to a deep purple. Heidt works
nearly `round-the-clock six days a week.
It’s the apex of his year – and a continuum of his life’s work.
It brings with it, however, some anxiety, says Heidt’s wife,
Joann, 57.
“We call it ‘Pms’—pre-marion season, because it gets kind
of tense, waiting those last few weeks before you pick,” she says.
64 1859magazine.com summer 09
From Our Farms
"I like the way they
pick and the flavor of
them. They are highquality
berries as far as
blackberries go."
Leonard Heidt,
Marionberry grower
Diane Stevenson
“You’ve got to figure out when to go—not too soon, because you could do
damage to the berries that come later, and you can’t wait too long. If it starts
raining, you’ve got mold, so you’re always watching the weather.”
During picking season, nearly every day in July for the past three-and-ahalf
decades, Heidt starts around 2 a.m., when the temperature dips just below
50 degrees and a fine dew covers the fruit. The berries have cooled from
the prior day’s heat, and they are at their plumpest and ready for harvesting.
For the next six hours, he uses a specially designed berry-picking machine,
racing against the rising mercury. Once the temperature reaches 70 degrees,
the fruit won’t drop off easily and are prone to getting damaged and mushy.
Heidt, like several area growers, sells his berries to a Salem processing
facility called Willamette Valley Fruit Company. This processor freezes the
fruit within 24 hours of being picked, and then sells it to big industrial food
companies such as Marie Callenders and Dole across the country and to
markets from Seattle to San Francisco. The berries are often found in the
frozen food sections of stores like Zupan’s Markets, Whole Foods Market,
and in Harry & David pies, says Dave Dunn, general manager of the Willamette
Valley Fruit Company.
As the cuisine of the Pacific Northwest has gained attention across
America, so has the marionberry. Paley's Place, a restaurant in Portland, has
received national acclaim for its cuisine featuring Pacific Northwest ingredients.
Owner and chef, Vitaly Paley, says that when marionberries are in
season, he uses them in desserts such as tres leches with marionberries and
maple-glazed almonds (go to www.1859magazine.com/dining for Paley's
recipe for tres leches with marionberries), and again in sauces for local venison,
elk, squab, quail, duck and rabbit.
“The marionberry adds a wonderful note when cooking,” says Paley. “It
has the same sweetness of a blueberry but has more of a backbone. It has the
acidity to counteract the sweetness.”
Combined in a liqueur, the marionberry can also sweeten a dry champagne.
Paley adds a few tablespoons of a marionberry liqueur to champagne
in creating a marionberry kir royale, or to sparkling wine to make a marionberry
kir.
“Add a twist of lemon and it’s a wonderfully refreshing summer cocktail.”
In Oregon's Restaurants
"The marionberry adds a wonderful
note when cooking. It has the same
sweetness of a blueberry but has more
of a backbone. It has the acidity to
counteract the sweetness. "
Vitaly Paley, owner and chef of
Paley's Place, a Portland restaurant
"I want to transport
you back to a time
of simpler pleasures
and the manual labor
lifestyle."
summer 09 1859magazine.com 63
Home Grown Recipes
Bella:
A Marionberry Martini
from "minT" in PorTlanD
4 lemon quarters, cut in the middle of the
flesh down to but not through the rind
superfine sugar
1 cup vodka
1 ounce triple sec
1 ounce fresh lemon juice
1 ounce simple syrup
1 ounce marionberry puree
Simple syrup:
in a saucepan, heat 2 cups sugar and 2 cups
water. cover and simmer for 2 minutes, until
sugar dissolves. when the syrup is cool, pour it
into a glass jar with a lid. keeps in refrigerator
up to to 6 months.
Prepare four 9-ounce martini glasses:
rub the cut lemon around the rims, moistening
a 1-inch-wide band. sprinkle the sugar on a
small plate and coat the rims. chill the glasses
until serving time.
Marionberry puree:
1 cup whole marionberries, fresh or thawed
frozen. Process berries in food processor until
smooth. strain through a fine mesh sieve to remove
seeds. Yields 1/2 cup puree. can be kept
in the refrigerator for 3-4 days or can be frozen
for up to 1 month.
Make and Shake:
fill a martini shaker with ice and add the
vodka, triple sec, lemon juice, simple syrup and
marionberry puree. shake robustly for 10 seconds
and strain into glasses. serve immediately.
You can make superfine sugar by processing
granulated sugar in a food processor or blender
for 1 minute.
Home Grown Recipes
Roasted Duck in a
Hazelnut Marionberry Pond
from lisa glickman,
1859's homegrown chef
When she sees duck on a menu, especially
paired with a sweet and fruity sauce, 1859's
Home Grown Chef looks no further. Try this
easy recipe with two of Oregon's most famous
locals—marionberries and hazelnuts.
For the rub:
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
1 teaspoon ground ginger
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
½ teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon ground cardomom
salt and freshly ground pepper
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
2 boneless duck breasts
For the sauce
1 medium shallot diced
2 tablespoons hazelnut liqueur
(such as Frangelico)
1 cup quality chicken stock
1 cup fresh marionberries
(or 1 cup Willamette Valley Farms
frozen marionberries thawed)
1 tablespoon pure maple syrup
1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons quality unsalted butter
For garnish
2 tablespoons chopped roasted hazelnuts
Additional whole marionberries
duck from your kitchen Most home chefs don’t use duck either because they think
duck is an exotic ingredient, or that they can't make it at home. It's neither exotic nor tough to
make in this easy recipe from the 1859's very own Home Grown Chef.
Preheat oven to 350°. Using a sharp knife,
score the skin of the duck in a crisscross pattern
being careful not to cut into the meat. Mix
together the rub ingredients and olive oil in a
small bowl. Using a pastry brush, paint the rub
on both side of the duck.
Place the breasts skin-side-down in a cold
heavy duty stainless steel pan. Turn heat to
medium. Slowly pan-sear the breast (about 8
minutes) until most of the duck fat is rendered
and the skin is crispy and browned. Turn the
breasts; place pan in oven and roast for another
5-8 minutes (less if you like your duck rare). Remove
duck from pan and tent with foil.
Place pan back on stove top. Remove all but
two tablespoons of the duck fat. Add shallots
and sauté until tender (1-2 minutes). Add hazelnut
liqueur, chicken stock, maple syrup, berries
and vinegar and reduce by half.
Strain sauce into a small saucepan and return
to heat. Mount sauce with butter using
little bits at a time. Adjust seasoning.
Make a pool of sauce in center of each serving
plate. Slice duck and place in pool of sauce.
Drizzle duck with extra sauce, sprinkle with
chopped hazelnuts and garnish with whole
marionberries.
Serves 2
summer 09 1859magazine.com 67
Home Grown Recipes
Marionberry Pie
from the RimRock Inn
Enterprise, Oregon
This classic Oregon dessert is best enjoyed
on the deck of the RimRock Inn, overlooking
Joseph Canyon in Eastern Oregon. But the
pie will taste just as good without the view,
baked fresh in your kitchen.
Pie Filling
5 ½ cups fresh or frozen,
whole marionberries, no sugar added
1 cup sugar
¼ cup corn starch
1 teaspoon cinnamon
Crust
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
2/3 cup shortening
4 teaspoons ice water
Traditional Bliss When baked, marionberries hold their shape and firmness very well, making
for a delightful combination of fruity crunch with sugary sweetness. From A Chef's Bounty, Celebrating
Oregon's Cuisine.
Mix all the pie filling ingredients together in
a bowl. Sift together the flour and salt. Using a
pastry cutter or two knives, blend the shortening
and flour together until mixture is crumbly.
Stir in cold water, adding just enough for the
dough to hold together so it forms a smooth
ball. Preheat oven to 425°.
Refrigerate the dough for one hour for easier
handling. Divide the dough and roll out on
a lightly floured board to make crust for a (9-
inch) two-crust pie or two (9-inch) crusts.
Roll the dough about 2 inches larger than
the diameter of the pan. Drape the crust over
the rolling pin and ease it into the pan, fitting it
against the bottom and sides. The crust should
overlap the edge of the pan, about one-halfinch.
Turn the crust under and shape the edge,
using your fingers to create a fluted or pleated
edge.
Fill the dough-lined pie pan with berries.
Combine the sugar, cornstarch and cinnamon
in a small bowl. Pour the cornstarch mixture
over the top of the berries. Roll out the other
piece of dough and place on top of the pie for
the top crust. Pinch together the edges of the
bottom crust and top crust around the pie. Cut
vents in the top of the pie. Place it in the oven
and bake for 20 minutes and then reduce the
oven temperature to 350° and continue baking
for about 30-35 minutes, or until the pastry is
golden brown.
68 1859magazine.com summer 09
Home Grown Chef
The Home Grown Chef
some chefs are all about credentials, medals, awards and plaudits. for 1859's home
grown chef, lisa glickman, it's all about the meal and the memories.
in this issue, the home grown chef prepared her favorite poultry, roast duck, in a
hazelnut marionberry pond. By experimenting and improvising in the kitchen, lisa
created a savory sauce that nicely complemented the duck without overpowering it.
it wasn't until she spontaneously pulled maple syrup and balsamic vinegar into the
sauce, that the taste really exploded.
lisa's cooking is inspired by cuisines from around the world and by produce from
oregon. lisa learned her trade by cooking for friends and family, and then graduated
to become an instructor for in good Taste, a Portland gourmet store where
she taught a variety of classes, as well as assisted celebrity chefs like corey schreiber
(wildwood), Paul klitsie (fratelli) and hugh carpenter (Pacific flavors).
There is no single dimension to lisa's menus. she is an eclectic chef, who can cook
great meals from around the world.
Visit our home grown chef's blog to work with lisa on the right menu for your
next dinner party or to talk about everyday good cooking. find the home grown
chef at 1859magazine.com/dining.
Summer in the Willamette Valley, a great time to go wine tasting! Home to
more than 180 wineries and tasting rooms. Request a copy of our touring
guide and map at www.willamettewines.com.
Check our website often for updates about events during 150 Days of Wine in
the Willamette Valley! DON’T MISS; Red, White & True Oregon Wines,
July 4-5, Discover the Wines of McMinnville AVA, July 18 and
Chehalem Mountain Winegrowers event, Sept. 5-7.
Getaway Guide
Central Oregon
Event Calendar
CENTRAL OREGON
7.09-8.13
MUNCH AND MUSIC
every Thursday night, featuring the best of
national and regional musical entertainment,
20 food booths, and arts & crafts vendors.
Bend; munchandmusic.com
7.11
SISTERS OUTDOOR QUILT SHOW
more than 1,200 splendidly hand-sewn quilts
will be on display throughout the town.
sisters; sistersoutdoorquiltshow.org
7.11-7.12
BEND SUMMER FESTIVAL
Downtown Bend's much-loved production of
music, art, food and fun.
Bend; bendsummerfestival.com
7.13-7.19
THE LIVE BAT EXPERIENCE
some of the rarest bats up close in masters
of the Night: The True story of Bats.
High Desert museum; highdesertmuseum.org
7.17-7.18
SAGEBRUSH CLASSIC
Play 18-holes at the Broken Top Club golf
course and indulge as celebrity chefs from
around the world prepare a gourmet meal
for your alimentary pleasure.
Bend; sagebrush.org
7.18-7.19
deschutes dash
swimmers, cyclists and runners compete
in triathlons or duathlons; including a Kid's
splash & Dash and a new youth triathlon.
Bend; freshairsports.com
7.21-7.26
BEND MEMORIAL CLINIC CASCADE
CYCLING CLASSIC
An elite stage race set against a backdrop
of stunning Central Oregon. register or just
come to watch! Bend; mbsef.org
mckay cottaGe restaurant, Bend
Fresh ingredients, attention to detail and great service
make mcKay Cottage restaurant one of Bend's favorite
breakfast and lunch destinations. Warm muffins,
homemade scones, cinnamon rolls and pecan sticky
buns along with freshly baked desserts greet you at
the door. Award winning food and service await inside.
541.383.2697 themckaycottage.com
Jen's Garden, sisters
In the cute town of sisters, Jen's Garden is an intimate
cottage with wonderful French cuisine, fresh
local ingredients and an extensive wine list. Thursday
through sunday enjoy the five-course dinner.
541.549.2699 intimatecottagecuisine.com
900 Wall, Bend
Formerly merenda, this upscale downtown restaurant
and bar is the center of Bend buzz. surf
and turf with a Pacific Northwest ethic, the new
900 Wall is more affordable than its predecessor.
many wines by the glass and a full bar.
541.323.6295 900wall.com
cascade lakes BreWinG comPany lodGe, Bend
The top spot for the post-mountain bike ride and aprés
ski, The Lodge has some of the best craft beers in a
town known for microbrews. The Blonde Bombshell
goes nicely with an ambitious pub-grub menu. Bar
and restaurant with pool, darts and large screen TVs.
541.388.4998 cascadelakes.com
lara house, Bend
Lara House Lodge, a 1910 Craftsman in downtown
Bend, offers a luxurious experience for adults seeking
a romantic getaway. Located in a historic neighborhood,
the six-room lodge overlooks Drake Park
and the Deschutes river.
541.388.4064 larahouse.com
>> Recreation Guide for Central Oregon
at 1859magazine.com
70 1859magazine.com summer 09
Central Oregon
Getaway Guide
Pine ridGe inn, Bend
Daily hot breakfasts and nightly wine receptions are
staples at this cozy gem in Bend. situated on a bluff
overlooking the Deschutes river canyon, just outside
the city center and on the road to mt. Bachelor ski
area, Pine ridge Inn is at the heart of recreation in
Central Oregon.
800.600.4095 pineridgeinn.com
lake creek lodGe, camP sherman
coG Wild, Bend
Vacation cabins on the pristine metolius river and
surrounded by the Deschutes National Forest, Lake
Creek Lodge is a true get-away from life's bustle.
Nearly 20 cabins with full amenities including kitchens
and washer/dryers make for longer stays and
more relaxation.
541.595.6331 lakecreeklodge.com
old mill shoPPinG district, Bend
Bend’s unique shopping, dining, entertainment and
working experience. Located on land along the Deschutes
river that formerly housed one of the world’s largest sawmill
operations, the Old mill District now has more than
49 businesses including such national retailers as Banana
republic, reI, Victoria’s secret and the Gap.
Bike hundreds of miles of single-track in Central Oregon
and go Cog Wild. In Oregon's mountain bike
mecca, Cog Wild Bicycle Tours offers a range of halfday
to multi-day tours, and Bike & Brewery Weekends
for all levels of riders. Also one-day tours for
individuals and groups.
541.385.7002 cogwild.com
seVenth mountain resort, Bend
Location. Location. Vacation. seventh mountain resort
is on the edge of the Deschutes National Forest
in Bend, the heartland of Oregon's outdoor adventureland.
rafting, horseback riding, swimming and
close to skiing at mt. Bachelor, the resort is Grand
Central station for Central Oregon sports.
800.452.6210 seventhmountain.com
Event Calendar
CENTRAL OREGON
7.31-8.01
CASCADE LAKES RELAY
A 216-mile, 12-person run from Diamond
Lake resort to Bend's Northwest Crossing.
Composed of 36 legs varying in length.
Diamond Lake resort/Northwest Crossing,
Bend; cascadelakesrelay.com
8.09
HAULIN’ ASPEN TRAIL MARATHON
A race with fast single track, Forest service
roads, cool valleys and incredible views.
Bend; freshairsports.com
8.09
CELTIC FESTIVAL AND SCOTTISH
HIGHLAND GAMES
scottish games, Celtic dancers, children's
activities, fine Celtic wares, food and pub.
madras; hdcs.net
8.12-8.22
SUNRIVER MUSIC FESTIVAL
Performances of classical music held in
beautiful Central Oregon at the sunriver
resort.
sunriver resort; sunrivermusic.org
8.23-9.04
MUNCH AND MOVIES
Gather Thursday evenings in Drake Park for
music and food, and then relax for a movie
showing at dusk.
Bend; munchandmovies.com
8.17-8.23
2009 JELD-WEN TRADITION
Golf's greats converge on sunriver for a PGA
Champions Tournament for a $2.7 million
purse. Crosswater Club at sunriver resort;
jeld-wentradition.com
8.28-8.30
ART IN THE HIGH DESERT
Browse a spectrum of ceramics, glasswork,
painting, photography, sculpture, jewelry,
glass, wood, and furniture on the banks of
the Deschutes. Bend; artinthehighdesert.com
541.312.0131 theoldmill.com
summer 09 1859magazine.com 71
>> Real Estate Guide for Central Oregon
at 1859magazine.com
Getaway Guide
The Coast
Event Calendar
THE COAST
7.11–7.25
OREGON COAST MUSIC FESTIVAL
Come enjoy wine, food and music for the 31st
year of this celebration. Coos Bay; oregonsadventurecoast.com
7.17-7.18
NORTH BEND JULY JUBILEE
Street fair, historical home tour, car show,
Back Alley Bash and much more at various
locations throughout this birthday weekend.
North Bend; oregonsadventurecoast.com
8.01
TILLAMOOK CHEESE TURNS 100
Say cheese! Come enjoy a full day of festivities
and fun! Sample tasty cheeses, ice cream, and
wine & cheese pairings.
Tillamook; tillamookcheese.com
8.07-8.09
BEACH VOLLEYBALL TOURNAMENT
Seaside hosts the largest amateur beach volleyball
tournament in the country for the 28th
year. More than 650 teams travel from far and
wide to play on 90 courts.
Seaside; seasidebeachvolleyball.com
8.15-8.16
CHARLESTON SEAFOOD FESTIVAL
Live music from country to jazz, carnival
games, arts and crafts, food, beer garden, harbor
tours and a Coast Guard open house.
Charleston; oregonsadventurecoast.com
8.15-8.16
ROCKAWAY BEACH ARTS AND CRAFTS
FESTIVAL
Peruse whimsical items from tie-dye clothing
to bird houses, woven baskets to exquisite
jewelry, and dog beds to handmade leather
belts. Rockaway Beach; 503.355.8108
8.22-8.23
BLACKBERRY ARTS FESTIVAL
Fine art, weaving, woodworking, and jewelry
and blackberry creations in honor of Oregon’s
150th birthday.
Coos Bay; oregonsadventurecoast.com
>> Travel Guide for the Coast
at 1859magazine.com
OCEAN LODGE, CANNON BEACH
The Ocean Lodge is the place where simple fun and
nostalgic pleasures come together. In Cannon Beach,
the Ocean Lodge gives you the opportunity to walk
out onto your deck, feel the sea mist and watch the
breakers crash into Haystack Rock and over the pristine
sands of Cannon Beach.
888.777.4047 theoceanlodge.com
PELICAN PUB & BREWERY, PACIFIC CITY
Two words for you: beachfront microbrewery. Soak
in picture-perfect views of Haystack Rock, sample
award-winning ales and fuel up on fresh seafood,
gourmet pizza and killer sandwiches.
503.965.7007 pelicanbrewery.com
72 1859magazine.com SUMMER 09
SALISHAN RESORT, GLENEDEN BEACH
Enjoy the ambiance of fireplaces, take in the natural
surroundings from your private balcony, or get some
rest on luxury pillow-top bedding in one of 205 guest
rooms. The resort’s par 71 course, winds through old
growth timber on the front nine and offers linksstyle
play on the back nine.
800.452.2300 salishan.com
BANDON INN, BANDON
Located on a bluff, the Bandon Inn overlooks Old
Town Bandon, the marina, Coquille River and the
Pacific Ocean. Miles of stunning beaches, beautiful
sunsets, world-class golf and fine local dining all
come together to make your stay at Bandon Inn a
memorable experience.
800.526.0209 bandoninn.com
OVERLEAF LODGE, YACHATS
Every room has an ocean view at this fantastic lodge.
Nightly accommodation includes continental breakfast
featuring fresh baked items, cereal, fruit, egg
dishes, juices, coffee and teas. Guests also enjoy free
use of Overleaf spa facilities, including the soaking
pool, hot tub, steam rooms and saunas.
800.338.0507 overleaflodge.com
The Coast
Getaway Guide
CANNON BEACH CAFÉ, CANNON BEACH
Tasty tropical fare, classic comfort food and original
cocktails make the Cannon Beach Café one of
the hottest hangouts in town. The Café, just steps
from the beach in the historic Cannon Beach Hotel,
is open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and every treat
in between.
503.436.2729 cannonbeachcafe.com
HOTEL ELLIOTT, ASTORIA
Welcome to Hotel Elliott, Astoria’s premier boutique
hotel. Featuring 32 uniquely restored rooms and
suites, this historic five-story hotel has undergone a
dramatic three-year renovation that weds early 20th
Century elegance and contemporary amenities—from
cedar-lined closets to heated stone floors in each bath.
877.378.1924 hotelelliott.com
MO'S RESTAURANTS
No visit to the Oregon Coast is complete without a
bowl of Mo’s famous clam chowder. The late
Mo Niemi opened the original location in Newport
in 1946 and eventually opened annexes in Cannon
Beach, Florence, Lincoln City and Otter Rock.
WHALE WATCHING, DEPOE BAY
Gray Whales are often feeding close to shore
near Depoe Bay in summer. Oregon Parks and
Recreation Department park rangers are ready to
answer your questions and help you find whales to
watch at the Whale Watching Center in Depoe Bay.
541.765-3304 whalespoken.org
SANDPINES GOLF LINKS, FLORENCE
Nestled amidst wind-swept sand dunes and towering
pines, Sandpines Golf Links is a breathtaking location
for coastal golf. The Rees Jones designed course was
honored as the "Best New Public Course in America" in
1993. Sandpines also recently received a 4½ star rating
from Golf Digest's list of "Places to Play in the USA."
800.917.4653 sandpines.com
Event Calendar
THE COAST
8.28-8.30
23RD ANNUAL SHOREBIRD FESTIVAL
Observe shorebird migration on the scenic
south coast. Bring binoculars and venture to
the best birding spots in Bandon and Coos
Bay. Charleston; oregonsadventurecoast.com
8.28-8.29
NIKE'S HOOD TO COAST RELAY
“The Mother of All Relays,” a 197-mile route
from Mt. Hood to the Oregon coast. Race
with a team or come to the finish line at Seaside
and cheer the runners in their final leg.
Seaside; hoodtocoast.com
9.11-9.13
BANDON CRANBERRY FESTIVAL
Join the Bandon community to celebrate the
harvest of the Cranberry Capital of the West
Coast. Blessing of the harvest, crafts, food,
music, wine, street fair, Queen’s Coronation,
Grand Parade, Lions BBQ, Bandon Dunes Golf
Challenge, and the Cranberry Bowl.
Bandon; 541.347.9616
9.12
MILL-LUCK SALMON CELEBRATION
An outdoor celebration of Native American
and Coquille Tribal culture. Attend a traditional
salmon bake, watch dance and drum
performances, partake in canoe races, peruse
craft booths, and more.
North Bend; themillcasino.com
9.19
PREFONTAINE MEMORIAL RUN
Steve Prefontaine, one of America’s greatest
distance runners, is honored each year at this
challenging 10k road race across one of his
old training courses, with its finish line at the
high school track where he first competed.
Coos Bay; prefontainerun.com
9.19
INDIAN STYLE SALMON BAKE
Bring the whole family and have your salmon
prepared over an open fire. Then watch Indian
dancers while you enjoy your fish.
Depoe Bay; depoebaychamber.org
541.265.2979 moschowder.com
SUMMER 09 1859magazine.com 73
>> Dining Guide for the Coast
at 1859magazine.com
Getaway Guide
Eastern Oregon
Event Calendar
EASTERN OREGON
7.11-7.12
OREGON TRAIL MUSIC FESTIVAL
Celebration of 19th century pioneer-era
music, along with contemporary tunes to
honor Oregon’s pioneer history. A special
presentation will feature acoustic and traditional
instruments, dancing, and opportunities
to sing and play along with featured
musicians at the National Historic Oregon
Trail Interpretive Center.
Baker City; blm.gov/or/oregontrail
7.25
NORTH POWDER HUCKLEBERRY FESTIVAL
The locals plan for this all year, picking the
their secret huckleberry patches, and then
preparing all sorts of purple delights. There
is a Purple Berry Parade, crafts, story telling,
dessert contest & tasting, dog agility contest
and lawn mower races.
North Powder; 800.848.9969
8.21-8.22
CROSSING THE BLUES SUMMER FESTIVAL
Celebrate all forms of art during this great
outdoor event. Hear excellent music, shop,
art booths, then catch a movie at midnight.
La Grande; crossingtheblues.com
9.11-9.13
HELLS CANYON MULE DAYS
Mule Show with events and games for every
age and skill level. Cowboy poets, pit BBQ
dinner, quilt show, mule and horse sale,
non-motorized parade, vendors, exhibitors
and Western Art on The Green.
Wallowa Fairgrounds, Enterprise; 541.426.3271
HELL'S CANYON RAFTING
WALLOWA LAKE LODGE, JOSEPH
Rustic and cozy, the Wallowa Lake Lodge was built
in the 1920s but is updated for comfort in one of
Oregon's most remote corners. It has 22 rooms and
eight cabins, and all are different. Breakfast and dinner
served daily.
541.432.9821 wallowalakelodge.com
Raft the incredibly gorgeous Hell's Canyon on a trip
down the Snake River. Big Horn sheep and petroglyphs
are just two discoveries that will take you
back in time and back to nature.
TAMÁSTSLIKT CULTURAL INSTITUTE, PENDLETON
Tamástslikt Cultural Institute’s Living Culture Village, a vibrant,
living display of traditional housing forms and Tribal
crafts and culture, is open to visitors June-Oct. From ancient
pit houses to more recent tipis, the village will include
trained interpreters to explain traditional crafts. Tamástslikt
is open 9-5 daily throughout the summer.
541.966.9748 tamastslikt.org
HISTORIC BALCH HOTEL, DUFUR
Hand-built by area craftsmen in 1907, the historic
Balch Hotel is furnished with period décor, and surrounded
by rolling farming fields of golden wheat
and green alfalfa. Enjoy nearby activities, including
local area wineries, museums, golf, hiking, shopping,
biking, rafting and fishing.
541.667.2277 balchhotel.com
9.16-9.19
PENDLETON ROUND-UP
One of the 10 largest rodeos in the world,
the Pendleton Roundup is an Oregon classic.
Featuring every bronco’s favorite events, from
bareback riding, saddle bronc and calf roping
to team roping, steer wrestling and bull riding.
Don’t forget to attend the Westward Ho!
Parade and watch the Happy Canyon Indian
Pageant. Pendleton; pendletonroundup.com
541.785.3352 hellscanyonadventures.com
CALDERAS RESTAURANT, JOSEPH
Where art meets food in Joseph. The best steak in
town is served over a hand-carved bar. Calderas
owner and artist, Nancy Young Lincoln, also shows
her incredible talent for fused-glass throughout.
541.432.0585 calderasofjoseph.com
>> Lodging Guide for Eastern Oregon
at 1859magazine.com
74 1859magazine.com SUMMER 09
HOOD RIVER HOTEL, HOOD RIVER
Dating to 1913, Hood River Hotel has been fully restored
to its original glory offering river-view rooms
and spacious suites with antiques and European
charm. Specializing in romantic getaways, the Hood
River Hotel is a wonderful place to kick back with
your companion.
541.386.1900 hoodriverhotel.com
Mt. Hood/The Gorge
SIXTH STREET BISTRO, HOOD RIVER
A full-service restaurant offering the best the Northwest
has to offer. Using local ranches, farms and forage
and regional, seasonal produce whenever possible
to provide the best experience for our customers.
A dozen microbrews on tap, an extensive wine list
and a full bar.
541.386.5737 sixthstreetbistro.com
Getaway Guide
Event Calendar
MT. HOOD/THE GORGE
7.09
SANDY MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL PARADE
More than 100 entries, this parade attracts
some 10,000 spectators. The parade theme
this year is Sasquatch Celebrates Oregon's
Sesquicentennial. Music and feast to follow.
Sandy; sandymountainfestival.org
7.11-7.12
HOOD RIVER COUNTY FRUIT LOOP
CHERRY CELEBRATION
Oregon is berry country. Celebrate delicious
Oregon cherry season with activities for the
entire family. Hood River farms offer many
varieties of fresh-picked and u-pick cherries,
wines, lavender, jams and other berry treats.
Find a spot to picnic and feast.
Hood River; hoodriverfruitloop.com
MCMENAMINS EDGEFIELD, TROUTDALE
McMenamins Edgefield was once the historic 1911
county poor farm and is today a 74-acre estate with a
hotel, restaurants, pubs, par-3 golf, a distillery, winery
and tasting room, spa, soaking pool and more.
Enjoy original artwork, gardens and live music during
your daytrip or overnight visit.
503.669.8810 mcmenamins.com
DOUBLE MOUNTAIN BREWERY,
HOOD RIVER
7.11-7.12
MT. HOOD OREGON TRAIL QUILT SHOW
This family-oriented event commemorates
the heritage of Oregon’s quilting traditions
with hand-sewn Oregon Trail quilts on display.
Rhododendron; 503.622.4798
7.11-7.19
LAVENDER FESTIVAL
Discover la vie provençal in the Gorge. Pick
your own lavender or buy pre-made lavender
products. Fresh flowers and hand-painted art
also for sale. Hood River; lavendervalley.com
Matt Swihart and Charlie Devereux
founded Double Mountain
in 2007 with a clear mission: make great craft beer to satisfy the hardcore aficionados
and the more casual craft beer drinker, all in the same glass. Double Mountain’s beers are
unfiltered and long-aged to deliver maximum flavor and character.
541.387.0042 doublemountainbrewery.com
CELILO RESTAURANT, HOOD RIVER
Celilo Restaurant and Bar brings in locally grown
produce for a fresh dining experience of seafood and
pasta complemented by an extensive wine list. Located
in downtown Hood River, Celilo regularly features
farmer, winemaker and special dinner events.
7.11
JAMMIN’ JULY STREET FESTIVAL
Festival activities, music, and sidewalk sales
in historic downtown The Dalles.
The Dalles; thedalleschamber.com
8.05-9.02 WEDNESDAYS
TIMBERLINE MOUNTAIN MUSIC SERIES
Billed as Free Music to the People, the Timberline
Mountain Music Series brings great
acts to stage, including the Freak Mountain
Ramblers. The amphitheater at Timberline
Lodge; timberlinelodge.com
541.386.5710 celilorestaurant.com
SUMMER 09 1859magazine.com 75
>> Marketplace for Mt. Hood/The Gorge products
at 1859magazine.com
Getaway Guide
Portland Metro
Event Calendar
PORTLAND METRO
6.17-8.02
ZOO CONCERTS
Outstanding performances by world-class
musicians, delicious food, and beautiful
summer evenings.
Oregon Zoo; oregonzoo.org/concerts
PALEY'S PLACE
Paley’s Place offers fresh, seasonal and creative flavors
from the Pacific Northwest. Chef and owner, Vitaly
Paley, creates classics with French and Northwest traditions,
using ingredients from local farmers. Kimberly
Paley oversees an extensive wine list with local and
European favorites.
503.243.2403 paleysplace.net
7.10, 7.24, 8.07, 8.14
FLICKS ON THE BRICKS at Pioneer Courthouse
Square's summer of outdoor movies.
Portland; pioneercourthousesquare.org
7.11
BASTILLE DAY FESTIVAL
Bienvenue à Portland! Celebrate this holiday
in the Parisian way with wine, food, music,
art and sport in Portland’s Pearl District.
afportland.org
7.18
PORTLAND HIGHLAND GAMES
Scottish Highland music, dancing, piping and
drumming competitions, athletics, and Scottish
dining with beer, bangers and mash.
Mt. Hood Community College: phga.org
7.23-7.26
OREGON BREWERS FESTIVAL
Choose from more than 80 different craft
beers from around the country. Live music
and food vendors will accompany your brew.
Tom McCall Waterfront Park; oregonbrewfest.com
7.24-7.26
ARTSPLASH
Art lovers flock to this juried art show and sale
on the lakefront of Tualatin Commons.
Tualatin; ci.tualatin.or.us/community/arts
7.24-7.26
PDX POP NOW!
The independent music festival dedicated to
expanding participation in Portland music
offering free shows by local artists.
Portland, pdxpopnow.com
OREGON MUSEUM OF SCIENCE AND INDUSTRY
OMSI is 219,000 square feet of brain-powered fun!
Bring science to life with hundreds of interactive exhibits
where you can experience an earthquake, take
part in lab demonstrations, see a movie in the Omnimax
Dome Theater, explore the universe in the planetarium
and tour a real submarine.
503.797.4000 omsi.edu
THE GOVERNOR HOTEL
AVALON HOTEL & SPA
Set at the edge of the new South Waterfront District
on Portland’s serene Willamette River, this luxury
boutique hotel and spa basks in the glow of the city's
lights just minutes from downtown. With its spa services,
the Avalon wraps guests in the sophistication
and warm hospitality of the Pacific Northwest.
503.802.5800 avalonhotelandspa.com
The luxurious Governor Hotel in downtown Portland
boasts 100 years of superb hospitality and service.
The newly remodeled Governor is one of the true
historic landmarks of the Pacific Northwest—combining
ambiance and modern convenience. Located
near Portland's theaters, restaurants and shopping.
503.224.3400 governorhotel.com
HEATHMAN HOTEL
Celebrated for its art of service, Portland’s sophisticated
Heathman Hotel offers an inspiring blend of natural
elegance and modern lifestyle. One of the “World’s
Best Places to Stay,” says Condé Nast Traveler, the
Heathman is Portland’s perfect destination for meetings,
events, conferences, banquets and gala affairs.
503.241.4100 heathmanhotel.com
>> Dining Guide for Portland Metro
at 1859magazine.com
76 1859magazine.com SUMMER 09
Portland Metro
Getaway Guide
ZEPPO
An upscale casual Italian restaurant located in downtown
Lake Oswego. The cuisine is fresh, inventive and sure to
please. Enjoy the daily home-made soup selections, delicious
lunch entrees and an impressive dinner menu including specialties
like sea scallops, roasted lamb shank, flank & crab grill,
veal florentine, grilled salmon, and Tuscan beef stew.
503.675.2726 zepporestaurant.com
MIO SUSHI
JAKE'S FAMOUS CRAWFISH
Enjoy salmon roasted on a cedar plank, Oregon Dungeness
crab, Chinook salmon stuffed with crab, great pastas
and excellent steaks, not to mention cocktails made with
fresh-squeezed juices. Considered one of the top 10 seafood
restaurants in the country, Jake's Famous Crawfish
has been a Portland landmark for more than a century.
503.226.1419 mccormickandschmicks.com
HOTEL MONACO
Step through the doors of Hotel Monaco Portland
and be welcomed into a world of unique luxury right
in downtown Portland. Inspired by Anglo-Chinois
style, renowned designer Cheryl Rowley recently
transformed this 1912 architectural masterpiece into
a space of whimsy, color and life.
503.222.0001 monaco-portland.com
This popular Japanese eatery offers an extensive
menu of traditional and creative fusion dishes that
are sure to please kids, non-fish eaters and sushi
veterans alike. Chefs incorporate the local flavors
and products of the Pacific Northwest. A casual and
friendly atmosphere for quality dining.
503.286.5123 miosushi.com
JAPANESE GARDEN
Nestled in the West Hills, the Portland Japanese Garden
is a haven of tranquil beauty that has been proclaimed
one the most authentic Japanese gardens outside of
Japan. The grounds exhibit five distinct styles: natural
garden, sand and stone garden, strolling pond garden,
flat garden and tea garden —all peaceful spaces.
503.223.1321 japanesegarden.com
SUMMER 09 1859magazine.com 77
Event Calendar
PORTLAND METRO
7.30, 8.27, 9.24
LAST THURSDAY ON ALBERTA
The last Thursday of every month, all galleries,
restaurants and shops of Alberta Street
open their doors for an evening of art.
Alberta Street; artonalberta.org
8.01-9.07
WEDNESDAYS AND SATURDAYS
PORTLAND FARMERS MARKET
Wednesdays at the South Park Blocks
between SW Salmon & Main; Saturdays at
PSU. portlandfarmersmarket.org
8.01-9.07
SHAKESPEARE-IN-THE-PARKS
Works of Shakespeare to life in Portland
parks on Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings.
Portland; portlandactors.com
8.07-8.09
THE BITE OF OREGON
Tour the flavors of two dozen top restaurants
and 30 fine wineries. biteoforegon.com
8.09
PROVIDENCE BRIDGE PEDAL
Seize this opportunity to bike over all of
Portland’s bridges. Rides of 14, 24, and 38
miles. providence.org/bridgepedal/index.asp
8.16
INDIA FESTIVAL
A glimpse of India culture, history and
people. Pioneer Courthouse Square; icaportland.org/events/india-festival-2009
8.28-8.30
OREGON INTERNATIONAL AIR SHOW
U.S. Air Force Thunderbirds, the U.S. Army
Golden Knights, fireworks and performances.
Hillsboro; oregonairshow.com
9.03-9.13
TIME-BASED ART FESTIVAL
The Portland Institute for Contemporary Art’s
exposition of contemporary performance,
dance, film, music, new media and visual arts.
pica.org
>> Real Estate Guide for Portland Metro
at 1859magazine.com
Getaway Guide
Willamette Valley
Event Calendar
WILLAMETTE VALLEY
7.10-7.12
OREGON COUNTRY FAIR
Flower children, odd entertainment, food,
creative wares and an eco-friendly ethos.
Veneta; oregoncountryfair.org
7.17-7.19
SALEM ART FAIR FESTIVAL
200 talented artists, live music and performances.
salem; 503.581.2228
7.17-7.19 AND 8.21-8.23
MOUNTAIN BIKE OREGON
spend the day riding through beautiful trails
and relax with free beer nightly in the beer
garden. Oakridge; mtbikeoregon.com
7.24-7.26
INTERNATIONAL PINOT NOIR CELEBRATION
An irresistible event for Pinot noir devotees
with master of ceremonies Jancis robinson and
famed winemaker François millet.
Linfield College, mcminnville; ipnc.org
7.31-8.02
THE OREGON JAMBOREE
Country music and camping festival in Oregon’s
"Home sweet Home" of country music.
sweet Home; oregonjamboree.com
7.31-8.02
WILLAMETTE RIVER FESTIVAL
A BBQ cook-off, pie & rib eating contests, live entertainment
and more. Albany; albanyvisitors.com
8.13-8.16
SCANDINAVIAN FESTIVAL
A smorgasbord of authentic scandinavian
foods and music and dancing.
Junction City; scandinavianfestival.com
8.15
ALBANY CRITERIUM BIKE RACE
Historic downtown Albany hosts a fast and
exciting criterium bike race.
Albany; albanyvisitors.com
CAMPBELL HOUSE, EUGENE
Built in 1892, the historic Campbell House is as
elegant as it is classic. eat at the formal dining room
or walk to nearby restaurants and events at the
Hult Center.
541.343.2258 campbellhouse.com
BROOKSIDE INN, DUNDEE
It's all about the food and the wine at this winecountry
inn. A series of winemakers dinners are
preapred by top chefs in the region. The suites are
Northwest charm with a touch of Asian style and the
feel of egyptian cotton.
503.852.4433 Brooksideinn-oregon.com
PONZI WINE BAR
Located in downtown Dundee, the Ponzi Wine Bar
offers an opportunity to taste wines from more than
140 top Oregon vintners. Flights are available, as well
as wine by the glass, bottle or case. The wine bar also
offers microbrews on draught, Italian coffee, appetizers,
and information on wine and touring.
503.554.1500 ponziwinebar.com
ANNE AMIE VINEYARDS, CARLTON
Pinot reigns supreme at Anne Amie Vineyards with Pinot
noir, Pinot gris and Pinot blanc forming the heart of our
production. A vineyard and winery tour is offered at 11 a.m.
daily with reservation (Wednesday through sunday). The
tour is followed by a private tasting of select wines which
include reserve tasting and an Oregon Pinot noir glass.
503.864.2991 anneamie.com
BEPPE & GIANNI'S TRATTORIA, EUGENE
Voted eugene’s best Italian restaurant for the past
eight years, family-owned Beppe & Gianni’s dishes
up delicious pasta made fresh every day. Offering an
extended Italian wine list and a friendly atmosphere,
this eatery is committed to using only the best local
ingredients in their alimentary creations.
541.683.6661 beppeandgiannis.net
>> Dining Guide for Willamette Valley
at 1859magazine.com
78 1859magazine.com summer 09
Willamette Valley
Getaway Guide
PUDDIN' RIVER CHOCOLATES & WINEBAR, CANBY
Willamette Valley's favorite for european-style chocolates,
specialty desserts and gifts; quaint bistro dining for lunch
and dinner featuring locally-grown produce, wines, and
beer; catering for parties and special events. New offerings
include wine tastings, cooking classes, theme music
nights, happy hour appetizers and guest musicians.
503.263.2626 www.puddinriver.com
PHOENIX GRAND HOTEL, SALEM
Adjoining the salem Conference Center and Bentley’s Grill,
the Phoenix Grand Hotel brings Grand hospitality to salem’s
historic downtown. Featuring 193 beautifully appointed guest
rooms and suites, it offers complimentary hot breakfasts buffet,
high speed internet and underground parking.
503.540.7800 phoenixgrandhotel.com
MARCHÉ, EUGENE
Fresh seasonal foods from the local market, or
marché, served in wonderful French cuisine. This restaurant,
in downtown eugene, has all the trimmings
and ambience of a classic French bistro.
KING ESTATE WINERY, EUGENE
King estate, founded in 1991 by the King family, is
a leading Oregon producer of Pinot gris and Pinot
noir. The 1,033-acre estate is certified organic. King
estate's restaurant and Wine Bar features wine tasting,
winery tours and fine dining, with a menu of
estate-grown and locally grown organic ingredients.
541.942.9874 kingestate.com
WILD PEAR RESTAURANT, SALEM
specializing in Northwest Cuisine with Asian & european
influences. Dishes are made from scratch with
local ingredients by creative chefs. Located in the
heart of downtown salem, in a beautifully restored
circa 1880 building, Wild Pear is the favorite lunch
spot among hip salemites and beyond.
503.378.7515 wildpearcatering.com
Event Calendar
WILLAMETTE VALLEY
8.28-9.07
OREGON STATE FAIR
Oregon’s 150th brings in Pink martini, reba
mcentire and the Doobie Brothers.
salem; oregonstatefair.org
9.17-9.20
MT. ANGEL OKTOBERFEST
Germanic mt. Angel is the perfect town to
host Oregon’s oldest and most beloved folk
festival. mount Angel; oktoberfest.org
9.19-9.20
OREGON GRAPE STOMP CHAMPIONSHIP
Wine-making beneath the soles of your
own two feet. Form your own teams of
two—one stomper and one swabber have
at it. Turner; willamettevalleyvineyards.com
9.19-9.20
SHREWSBURY RENAISSANCE FAIRE
“Teaching History Through Faire Play,” brings
history to life through an educational village.
modeled on the era of shakespeare and
elizabeth I, and set in the historic renaissance
of 1558 to 1603. Kings Valley; shrewfaire.com
9.26
CIDER SQUEEZE AND HARVEST FESTIVAL
Bring your own apples or squeeze theirs.
Fresh cider, pie & ice cream, games and
activities for kids and live music.
eagle Creek; philipfosterfarm.com
9.26-9.27
CORVALLIS FALL FESTIVAL
Continuous music, 170 artist booths, a fine
arts showcase and wine tasting . Headline
acts include soul, blues, funk and African
musicians. Central Park, Corvallis;
corvallisfallfestival.com
9.26-9.27
GRAPE STOMPING FESTIVAL
Come see who squishes the most juice while
stomping to some lively Bavarian music.
Canby; stjosefswinery.com
541.342.3612 marcherestaurant.com
summer 09 1859magazine.com 79
>> Travel Guide for Willamette Valley
at 1859magazine.com
Top 5
Gert Boyle
5Live Without.
Top
Gert Boyle, 85, was born in Germany, fled the Nazi regime with her family and landed in Portland,
where her father founded the Columbia Hat Company in 1938. After her husband, Neal, died in
1970, Boyle took over the failing company and grew Columbia Sportswear to a billion dollar baby
by 2004. Now an international icon, Columbia Sportswear Company’s chairwoman and Oregon’s
First Lady of Feist, Ma Boyle, shares with 1859 Oregon's Magazine her Top 5 Things She Can’t
Things Gert Boyle
can't live without
PB&J sandwiches
Grandkids
Paycheck
Col. Sanders
Starbucks
80 1859magazine.com summer 09
Getaway Guide
Southern Oregon
Event Calendar
SOUTHERN OREGON
ALL SUMMER
OREGON SHAKESPEARE FESTIVAL
The jewel of theater in the Northwest presents
Henry VIII, much Ado about Nothing
and Don Quixote.
Ashland; www.osfashland.org
THROUGH SEPTEMBER
BRITT FESTIVALS
Presenting dozens of summer concerts that
feature world-renowned artists of pop, rock,
country, jazz, classical, bluegrass and folk
music. James Taylor, Pink martini, Crosby,
stills & Nash, sheryl Crow, Blondie, Wilco,
and Diana Krall. Jacksonville; brittfest.org
7.11
SISKIYOU OUTBACK TRAIL RUN
High above the rogue Valley, the siskiyou
Outback Trail run. Distances of either 15k or
50k along the Pacific Crest Trail.
Ashland; mtashland.com
7.23-8.03
OREGON MUSICAL THEATRE FESTIVAL
see 23 live performances of three different
shows on three stages in one magnificent
location at umpqua Community College.
roseburg; oregonmtf.com
8.01
MT. ASHLAND HILLCLIMB RUN
This 13.3-mile event from Lithia Park to mt.
Ashland’s summit gains more than one vertical
mile. Ashland; mtashland.com
8.08-8.08
ANNUAL SHADY COVE RIVER ARTWALK
75 artists and original crafters, music and
food along the rogue river at the Cove.
shady Cove; shadycove.net
8.15
CRATER LAKE CENTURY RIDE
The 100-mile Century ride climbs 3,000 feet
to the rim. Crater Lake rim; craterlakecentury.com
SHAKESPEARE FESTIVAL, ASHLAND
Ashland is the stage that never sleeps, unless it's
part of a dramatic act. The best regional theater in
the Northwest, the festival's summer lineup includes:
Henry VIII, much Ado About Nothing and Don Quixote.
541.482.4331 osfashland.com
WEASKU INN, GRANTS PASS
ASHLAND SPRINGS HOTEL
An elegantly restored historic landmark in the heart
of downtown Ashland, next to Oregon shakespeare
Festival theatres offers 70 tastefully appointed guest
rooms, an english garden, a banquet/conference space
and delicious food. Its restaurant, Larks, celebrates Oregon's
farms, orchards, vineyards & chocolatiers.
541.488.1700 ashlandspringshotel.com
LELA’S CAFÉ, ASHLAND
set on the banks of the Wild and scenic rogue river,
Weashku Inn had been a Hollywood darling, with
visits from Clark Gable, Carole Lombard and Walt
Disney. A decade ago, the inn's five rooms and 11
riverfront cabins underwent a renovation that puts
luxury into the wilderness.
541.471.8000 weaskuinn.com
romantic and charming with a casual and graceful French
Bistro ambiance, Lela’s cuisine is simple but elegant combining
classic French preparation techniques with fresh ingredients
from the Pacific Northwest. The menu features
locally grown and seasonal products from the abundant
farms, dairies and vineyards of the rogue Valley.
541.482.1702 lelascafe.com
JACKSONVILLE INN
Located in a National Historic Landmark town, the Jacksonville
Inn offers eight elegantly decorated hotel rooms,
modernized for comfort with whirlpool tubs, steam showers,
air-conditioning, and four luxurious honeymoon cottages
that cater to romance and privacy. The gourmet dinner
house has a selection of more than 2,000 wines.
800.321.9344 jacksonvilleinn.com
>> Lodging Guide for Southern Oregon
at 1859magazine.com
78 1859magazine.com summer 09
Southern Oregon
Getaway Guide
CRATER LAKE LODGE, CRATER LAKE
Truly a grand Northwest lodge, the historic 71-room
Crater Lake Lodge originally opened in 1915 and is located
on the edge of the caldera overlooking Crater
Lake. renovated in 1995, the Lodge offers an atmosphere
reminiscent of the 1920s and immerses visitors
in its rustic charm.
888.774.2728 craterlakelodges.com
CHATEAULIN RESTAURANT FRANÇAIS, ASHLAND
Walk into Chateaulin and you'll be transported to
Lyon, France. Whether you go for the award-winning
wine list, the three-course prix fixe dinner, the classic
martinis from the bar, or the French cuisine and
atmosphere, you'll be happy you did.
541.482.2264 chateaulin.com
BRITT FESTIVAL, JACKSONVILLE
The Northwest’s premier outdoor music and performing
arts festival features world renown artists
who perform under the stars in a natural hillside
amphitheater of unparalleled beauty, just three
blocks from downtown historic Jacksonville.
800.882.7488 brittfest.org
4 DAUGHTERS IRISH PUB, MEDFORD
This pub is a family owned and operated restaurant
bringing an authentic Irish experience to downtown
medford. Offering a light n' lively atmosphere, Irish
drinks and fare, plus live music five nights a week,
4 Daughters is southern Oregon's best spot for the
tastes and sounds of the Old eire.
541.779.4455 4daughtersirishpub.com
HELLGATE JETBOAT EXCURSIONS
spectacular jet boat trips on the Wild and scenic
rogue river and the famous Hellgate Canyon. safe
and fun for all ages. Five trips to choose from. Prices
range from $37 - $62. Brunch, lunch and dinner trips
all stop at the OK Corral for a family style BBQ.
Event Calendar
SOUTHERN OREGON
8.15
9TH ANNUAL BRATS BREWS & BLUES EVENT
An afternoon of blues, microbrew sampling
and a German bratwurst dinner at the Yacht
Club at Klamath Lake. Great blues bands to
entertain you while enjoying the breeze off the
lake. Klamath Falls; 541.892.8207
8.15
HENRY GOES WINE
A family friendly event. Live music, various
food vendors and numerous activities for
kids of all ages. Also enjoy the umpqua Valley
salmon and pork rib BBQ.
umpqua; henryestate.com
8.21-8.23
KLAMATH TRIBES RESTORATION
CELEBRATION
The celebration includes a rodeo, powwow,
arts and crafts, and great food.
Chiloquin; klamathtribes.org
9.05-9.06
A TASTE OF HARRY & DAVID
southern Oregon's premier food and wine
event. An extravaganza of food and wine to
tantalize your senses. The event features live
music, with more than 50 sampling stations,
specials, sales and more.
medford; harryanddavid.com
9.12-9.19
CYCLE OREGON
“The Best Bike ride in America,” is 400 miles
through the mythical state of Jefferson, a
region of southern Oregon and northern
California. southern Oregon; cycleoregon.com
10.03-10.04
ART ALONG THE ROGUE
Featuring nationally known street painters
creating huge pastel chalk drawings on the
street, alongside 40-50 regional artists & students.
A musical showcase highlights some of
the region's top groups, blues to bluegrass and
funk to folk.
Grants Pass; artalongtherogue.com
800.648.4874 hellgate.com
summer 09 1859magazine.com 79
>> Recreation Guide for Southern Oregon
at 1859magazine.com
Getaway Guide
Willamette Valley
Event Calendar
WILLAMETTE VALLEY
7.10-7.12
OREGON COUNTRY FAIR
Flower children, odd entertainment, food,
creative wares and an eco-friendly ethos.
Veneta; oregoncountryfair.org
7.17-7.19
SALEM ART FAIR FESTIVAL
200 talented artists, live music and performances.
salem; 503.581.2228
7.17-7.19 AND 8.21-8.23
MOUNTAIN BIKE OREGON
spend the day riding through beautiful trails
and relax with free beer nightly in the beer
garden. Oakridge; mtbikeoregon.com
7.24-7.26
INTERNATIONAL PINOT NOIR CELEBRATION
An irresistible event for Pinot noir devotees
with master of ceremonies Jancis robinson and
famed winemaker François millet.
Linfield College, mcminnville; ipnc.org
7.31-8.02
THE OREGON JAMBOREE
Country music and camping festival in Oregon’s
"Home sweet Home" of country music.
sweet Home; oregonjamboree.com
7.31-8.02
WILLAMETTE RIVER FESTIVAL
A BBQ cook-off, pie & rib eating contests, live entertainment
and more. Albany; albanyvisitors.com
8.13-8.16
SCANDINAVIAN FESTIVAL
A smorgasbord of authentic scandinavian
foods and music and dancing.
Junction City; scandinavianfestival.com
8.15
ALBANY CRITERIUM BIKE RACE
Historic downtown Albany hosts a fast and
exciting criterium bike race.
Albany; albanyvisitors.com
PONZI WINE BAR
Located in downtown Dundee, the Ponzi Wine Bar
offers an opportunity to taste wines from more than
140 top Oregon vintners. Flights are available, as well
as wine by the glass, bottle or case. The wine bar also
offers microbrews on draught, Italian coffee, appetizers,
and information on wine and touring.
503.554.1500 ponziwinebar.com
CAMPBELL HOUSE, EUGENE
Built in 1892, the historic Campbell House is as
elegant as it is classic. eat at the formal dining room
or walk to nearby restaurants and events at the
Hult Center.
541.343.2258 campbellhouse.com
BROOKSIDE INN, DUNDEE
It's all about the food and the wine at this winecountry
inn. A series of winemakers dinners are
preapred by top chefs in the region. The suites are
Northwest charm with a touch of Asian style and the
feel of egyptian cotton.
503.852.4433 Brooksideinn-oregon.com
ANNE AMIE VINEYARDS, CARLTON
Pinot reigns supreme at Anne Amie Vineyards with Pinot
noir, Pinot gris and Pinot blanc forming the heart of our
production. A vineyard and winery tour is offered at 11 a.m.
daily with reservation (Wednesday through sunday). The
tour is followed by a private tasting of select wines which
include reserve tasting and an Oregon Pinot noir glass.
503.864.2991 anneamie.com
BEPPE & GIANNI'S TRATTORIA, EUGENE
Voted eugene’s best Italian restaurant for the past
eight years, family-owned Beppe & Gianni’s dishes
up delicious pasta made fresh every day. Offering an
extended Italian wine list and a friendly atmosphere,
this eatery is committed to using only the best local
ingredients in their alimentary creations.
541.683.6661 beppeandgiannis.net
>> Dining Guide for Willamette Valley
at 1859magazine.com
80 1859magazine.com summer 09
Willamette Valley
Getaway Guide
PUDDIN' RIVER CHOCOLATES & WINEBAR, CANBY
Willamette Valley's favorite for european-style chocolates,
specialty desserts and gifts; quaint bistro dining for lunch
and dinner featuring locally-grown produce, wines, and
beer; catering for parties and special events. New offerings
include wine tastings, cooking classes, theme music
nights, happy hour appetizers and guest musicians.
503.263.2626 www.puddinriver.com
PHOENIX GRAND HOTEL, SALEM
Adjoining the salem Conference Center and Bentley’s Grill,
the Phoenix Grand Hotel brings Grand hospitality to salem’s
historic downtown. Featuring 193 beautifully appointed guest
rooms and suites, it offers complimentary hot breakfasts buffet,
high speed internet and underground parking.
503.540.7800 phoenixgrandhotel.com
MARCHÉ, EUGENE
Fresh seasonal foods from the local market, or
marché, served in wonderful French cuisine. This restaurant,
in downtown eugene, has all the trimmings
and ambience of a classic French bistro.
KING ESTATE WINERY, EUGENE
King estate, founded in 1991 by the King family, is
a leading Oregon producer of Pinot gris and Pinot
noir. The 1,033-acre estate is certified organic. King
estate's restaurant and Wine Bar features wine tasting,
winery tours and fine dining, with a menu of
estate-grown and locally grown organic ingredients.
541.942.9874 kingestate.com
WILD PEAR RESTAURANT, SALEM
specializing in Northwest Cuisine with Asian & european
influences. Dishes are made from scratch with
local ingredients by creative chefs. Located in the
heart of downtown salem, in a beautifully restored
circa 1880 building, Wild Pear is the favorite lunch
spot among hip salemites and beyond.
503.378.7515 wildpearcatering.com
Event Calendar
WILLAMETTE VALLEY
8.28-9.07
OREGON STATE FAIR
Oregon’s 150th brings in Pink martini, reba
mcentire and the Doobie Brothers.
salem; oregonstatefair.org
9.17-9.20
MT. ANGEL OKTOBERFEST
Germanic mt. Angel is the perfect town to
host Oregon’s oldest and most beloved folk
festival. mount Angel; oktoberfest.org
9.19-9.20
OREGON GRAPE STOMP CHAMPIONSHIP
Wine-making beneath the soles of your
own two feet. Form your own teams of
two—one stomper and one swabber have
at it. Turner; willamettevalleyvineyards.com
9.19-9.20
SHREWSBURY RENAISSANCE FAIRE
“Teaching History Through Faire Play,” brings
history to life through an educational village.
modeled on the era of shakespeare and
elizabeth I, and set in the historic renaissance
of 1558 to 1603. Kings Valley; shrewfaire.com
9.26
CIDER SQUEEZE AND HARVEST FESTIVAL
Bring your own apples or squeeze theirs.
Fresh cider, pie & ice cream, games and
activities for kids and live music.
eagle Creek; philipfosterfarm.com
9.26-9.27
CORVALLIS FALL FESTIVAL
Continuous music, 170 artist booths, a fine
arts showcase and wine tasting . Headline
acts include soul, blues, funk and African
musicians. Central Park, Corvallis;
corvallisfallfestival.com
9.26-9.27
GRAPE STOMPING FESTIVAL
Come see who squishes the most juice while
stomping to some lively Bavarian music.
Canby; stjosefswinery.com
541.342.3612 marcherestaurant.com
summer 09 1859magazine.com 81
>> Travel Guide for Willamette Valley
at 1859magazine.com
Top 5
Gert Boyle
5Live Without.
Top
Gert Boyle, 85, was born in Germany, fled the Nazi regime with her family and landed in Portland,
where her father founded the Columbia Hat Company in 1938. After her husband, Neal, died in
1970, Boyle took over the failing company and grew Columbia Sportswear to a billion dollar baby
by 2004. Now an international icon, Columbia Sportswear Company’s chairwoman and Oregon’s
First Lady of Feist, Ma Boyle, shares with 1859 Oregon's Magazine her Top 5 Things She Can’t
Things Gert Boyle
can't live without
PB&J sandwiches
Grandkids
Paycheck
Col. Sanders
Starbucks
82 1859magazine.com summer 09