Woolworths_Taste_July_2017
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<strong>July</strong> <strong>2017</strong><br />
R36.90 incl. VAT<br />
Other countries<br />
R32.37 excl. VAT<br />
taste.co.za<br />
@WW<strong>Taste</strong><br />
Lemon-curd<br />
lava pudding<br />
(page 76)
Nothing beats the rich<br />
of Parmigiano Reggiano,<br />
the only authentic<br />
Parmesan.
Masterfully made in Italy with the same passion, expertise and<br />
dedication as in the 12th century, Parmigiano Reggiano remains<br />
true to its heritage and taste.<br />
Artisan cheese makers use traditional methods of<br />
production distinctive to the area of origin, to create the<br />
only authentic Parmesan cheese.<br />
www.parmigianoreggiano.com
TIMELESS FURNITURE AND HOMEWARE AVAILABLE AT<br />
BROOKLYN, DURBANVILLE, FOURWAYS, GREEN POINT,<br />
KNYSNA, KRAMERVILLE, NELSPRUIT, UMHLANGA
WEYLANDTS/1467B/E/SA<br />
TASTE NEVER GOES OUT OF STYLE<br />
WEYLANDTS.CO.ZA
THERE’S<br />
TASTE<br />
AND THEN<br />
THERE’S US<br />
Cafe Bugatti<br />
Caffé Frescatti<br />
Cafe Rossini<br />
Cappuccino's<br />
(New Look - Re-opening <strong>July</strong>)<br />
Cofi<br />
Col'cacchio<br />
Foodlovers Café<br />
Lucky Bread<br />
Moo Moo<br />
Mugg & Bean<br />
Mythos<br />
Ocean Basket<br />
Phoenix Spur<br />
Seattle Coffee Co.<br />
Simply Asia<br />
Starbucks<br />
(Opening Soon)<br />
Steers<br />
Tasha's<br />
Tribeca<br />
Wellness Warehouse<br />
Wimpy<br />
<strong>Woolworths</strong> Café<br />
DINING | FASHION | LUXURY | LIFESTYLE<br />
SHOPPING HOURS: WEEKDAYS 9AM - 7PM & WEEKENDS 9AM - 5PM<br />
Tel: 012 346 1063 | www.brooklynmall.co.za | Cnr Veale and Fehrsen Streets, New Muckleneuk, Pretoria
JULY <strong>2017</strong><br />
CONTENTS<br />
● FEATURES ●<br />
PASS THE PERI-PERI<br />
An insider reveals where<br />
FLIGHTS OF FLAVOUR<br />
Hop on a plane to discover<br />
GO FOR GOLD<br />
to find the best prego<br />
why Iberian ham and<br />
Turmeric has come a long<br />
rolls, rissoles and pastéis<br />
authentic Parmigiano-<br />
way since your mom’s<br />
de nata in the tight-knit<br />
Reggiano are sought after<br />
Sunday-lunch yellow<br />
Portuguese community<br />
by top chefs, and why<br />
rice. Add it to everything<br />
of Joburg’s spicy south. 80<br />
doughnuts in New York<br />
from one-pot chicken<br />
and ramen in Brisbane<br />
to a golden latte. 20<br />
SA'S TOP 10 GAME-<br />
are so worth the visas. 103<br />
CHANGERS<br />
COVER PHOTOGRAPH TOBY MURPHY PRODUCTION ABIGAIL DONNELLY<br />
FOOD ASSISTANT JACQUELINE BURGESS<br />
ESPRESS-O YOURSELF<br />
Get the most from your<br />
favourite roast … in fillet<br />
with café au lait sauce and<br />
a coffee risotto you’ll want<br />
to eat for breakfast. 62<br />
MAIN SQUEEZE<br />
When life gives you<br />
lemons … and oranges,<br />
limes and clementines,<br />
make your best-ever roast<br />
chicken, shortrib, tacos and<br />
lava pudding. And that’s<br />
just for starters. 72<br />
From the winelands<br />
restaurant that put SA food<br />
on the map, to a groundbreaking<br />
Joburg bistro,<br />
these are some of SA’s<br />
most iconic restaurants,<br />
past and present. 86<br />
MASTERS OF<br />
STREETFOOD<br />
Now you can make global<br />
streetfood at home thanks<br />
to the easy recipes in<br />
MasterChef: Street Food<br />
of the World. 94<br />
● FIRST TASTE ●<br />
29 Trend: coffee jelly<br />
32 Pantry: Asian staples<br />
34 3 ways with:<br />
sweet potato<br />
36 5 minutes with:<br />
Jan-Hendrik van<br />
der Westhuizen<br />
38 Anatomy of a dish:<br />
bibimbap at Soju, Sea Point<br />
40 What I know now:<br />
Ben Shewry<br />
46 Scene stealer: the<br />
Robertson wine valley
● RAISE THE BAR ●<br />
51 So many reasons to love<br />
sake this winter<br />
52 Two famous French wine<br />
styles that are being made<br />
just right on SA soil<br />
54 What to drink with … citrus<br />
56 Meet the sommelier and<br />
former banker who make their<br />
own small-batch wines<br />
58 Try a ClemenGold sake<br />
toddy. You won’t regret it<br />
● TASTE KITCHEN ●<br />
113 Here’s how to get sushi<br />
rice right, every time<br />
116 Starter cook:<br />
Mouthwatering new reasons<br />
to stock up on winter veg<br />
(the smoky, garlicky baked<br />
cannellini beans on toast<br />
will change your life)<br />
● REGULARS ●<br />
10 Editor’s letter<br />
12 Feedback: our winning<br />
letter receives 12 bottles of<br />
Van Loveren wines worth<br />
R712, plus a R500 <strong>Woolworths</strong><br />
gift card<br />
14 Visit taste.co.za for recipes,<br />
community conversation,<br />
tips and competitions<br />
16 Subscribe to TASTE for<br />
R28 per issue and you could<br />
win a hamper of wine from<br />
Weltevrede worth R1 758<br />
18 Win a stay at Tintswalo<br />
Atlantic worth R23 060<br />
60 Win a Smeg espresso<br />
coffee machine worth R6 500<br />
122 Foodstuff: your<br />
shopping guide<br />
126 Recipe index<br />
128 Back page: sesame<br />
banana spring rolls<br />
● COLUMNS ●<br />
42 TASTES THAT BIND<br />
Pumpkin fritters connect Seb<br />
with his heritage and are also<br />
one of his favourite things to<br />
make, says Sam Woulidge.<br />
44 #TASTESLIKEMORE<br />
Former chef Ilana Sharlin-<br />
Stone has happy memories<br />
of long hours spent in the<br />
kitchens of Los Angeles<br />
page 72<br />
page 86<br />
page 76<br />
page 18, 60<br />
page 116<br />
page 62<br />
page 20<br />
page 80, 94, 103
EDITOR'S LETTER<br />
MY TRIP DOWN MEMORY LANE<br />
10<br />
For me, food and memory are always<br />
entwined, and sometimes I’ll find<br />
myself making a dish at home with a<br />
simple ingredient that sparks a happy<br />
recollection, which is what happened last<br />
night while cooking dinner. After<br />
picking up a bag of the season’s first<br />
parsnips, I decided to make a pot of<br />
creamy parsnip mash using lashings<br />
of butter and cream and a sprinkling of<br />
freshly ground nutmeg. It’s so simple and<br />
always top of my winter comfort-food list<br />
south in my old ’hood in Jozi for the<br />
“Pass the peri-peri” food and Portuguese<br />
community story on page 80. Back in<br />
the day at Forest High in Forest Hill,<br />
I used to choose my friends based on<br />
the quality of the chorizo they ate for<br />
lunch after school – we’d take turns<br />
going to each other’s houses and<br />
I absolutely loved eating fried chorizo<br />
with scrambled egg on the side. I could<br />
never have guessed that, all these years<br />
later, the same shop where their parents<br />
stocked up – Rio Douro Fisheries –<br />
would still be going strong!<br />
Walking into Bembom on this trip<br />
was also a revelation. Just one look at<br />
their legendary pastéis de nata – egg<br />
custard nestled in crispy pastry – and<br />
I knew I had to order a box to cradle<br />
on my lap on the flight back to Cape<br />
Town. I also couldn’t resist stuffing<br />
a bag of real-deal Portuguese rolls into<br />
my hand luggage, so that I could relive<br />
my down-south memories with my<br />
family. That night I made a big pot of<br />
cavolo nero and told my husband and<br />
sons that, while kale might be trendy<br />
now, it was simple playground fare<br />
when I grew up – I used to swap my<br />
cheese-and-tomato sarmies for the<br />
other incredible game-changers in the<br />
local restaurant biz (page 86).<br />
While I’m feeling nostalgic about<br />
the past this month, I’m also feeling<br />
sentimental about the future following<br />
the birth of Kate’s baby girl, Holly. Kate<br />
will be at home spending time with her<br />
daughter for the next few months and,<br />
on behalf of the TASTE team, I’d like<br />
to congratulate her and the famous Salad<br />
Dodger. Wishing you so much happiness<br />
(and boa comida, always!)<br />
Follow me<br />
on Instagram<br />
@donnellyabi<br />
“IF I WASN’T EATING CHORIZO AT<br />
SOMEONE’S HOUSE, I WAS PLAYING PAC-MAN<br />
AT THE CORNER CAFÉ WHILE WAITING FOR<br />
A PERI-PERI PREGO ROLL”<br />
because it brings back fond childhood<br />
memories of my gran, who would add<br />
parsnips to all sorts of mouthwatering<br />
stews she conjured up in her pressure<br />
cooker. I absolutely loved them for their<br />
sweet robustness, but the same definitely<br />
didn’t apply to my brother, who used to<br />
hunt them down between the potatoes<br />
and turnips and place them in a neat<br />
circle around his plate.<br />
As you can tell, I get really sentimental<br />
about the past, and working on this<br />
issue of TASTE gave me plenty of time<br />
to do just that when I spent time down<br />
garlicky-oniony kale my friends brought<br />
in their lunchboxes (once a foodie,<br />
always a foodie!). And no trip down my<br />
memory lane would be complete without<br />
revisiting one of my first (and very<br />
special) fine-dining experiences, which<br />
took place at The Three Ships upstairs<br />
in the Carlton Centre when I was 16. It<br />
was the first time I ate duck l’orange and,<br />
oh, the novelty of seeing a Caesar salad<br />
tossed right in front of me! It will always<br />
be an iconic restaurant to those who were<br />
lucky enough to dine there, which is why<br />
we’ve paid tribute to it along with some<br />
ABI’S PERI-PERI SAUCE<br />
When I wasn’t eating chorizo at<br />
someone’s house, I was playing Pac-<br />
Man at the corner café while waiting<br />
for a peri-peri prego roll. This is my best<br />
version of that sauce: slightly sweet, sour<br />
and a touch salty. Eat it with chicken<br />
livers or with minute steaks packed into<br />
the softest Portuguese rolls you can find.<br />
Blend 1 cup oil, 6 chopped garlic<br />
cloves, the juice of 2 lemons, 12<br />
chopped red chillies (bird’s-eye are<br />
best), 2 T smoked paprika,1 t salt,<br />
¼ cup red wine vinegar, 1 roast onion<br />
and 2 roast red peppers until smooth.<br />
PORTRAIT JAN RAS FOOD PHOTOGRAPH GALLO IMAGES/GETTYIMAGES.COM
12<br />
“… a big cappuccino,<br />
any time of day, but<br />
I’m especially partial<br />
to one at 9 am.”<br />
– Yvette Samaai<br />
“… a cortado: a<br />
double espresso with<br />
a little bit of milk.”<br />
– Jacqueline Burgess<br />
“… the one my<br />
husband brings me in<br />
bed first thing every<br />
morning, made using<br />
our espresso machine.<br />
It’s a double-shot flat<br />
white in a small cup.”<br />
– Lynda Ingham-<br />
Brown<br />
THE TEAM SAYS:<br />
My favourite type of coffee is…<br />
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Kate Wilson<br />
kate.wilson@newmediapub.co.za<br />
FOOD EDITOR Abigail Donnelly<br />
abigail.donnelly@newmediapub.co.za<br />
HEAD OF CREATIVE: CONSUMER DIVISION Mark Serra<br />
GROUP MANAGING EDITOR Liesl Nicholson<br />
liesl.nicholson@newmediapub.co.za<br />
ASSISTANT EDITOR Lee-Anne Spurdens<br />
FEATURES EDITOR Michelle Coburn<br />
michelle.coburn@newmediapub.co.za<br />
SENIOR COPY EDITOR Lynda Ingham-Brown<br />
FEATURES WRITER Annette Klinger<br />
ART DIRECTOR Lené Roux<br />
ART DIRECTOR (CONSUMER DIVISION) Alistair Fester<br />
ONLINE EDITOR Amy Ebedes<br />
ONLINE CONTENT PRODUCER Melissa Scheepers<br />
FOOD ASSISTANT Jacqueline Burgess<br />
CONTRIBUTING FOOD EDITOR Phillippa Cheifitz<br />
CONTRIBUTING FOOD EDITOR Hannah Lewry<br />
WINE CONSULTANT Allan Mullins<br />
CONSULTING DIETICIAN Mariza van Zyl<br />
WOOLWORTHS EDITORIAL BOARD<br />
Head of Brand Communications: Glenda Philp<br />
Brand Manager Foods: Hieba Solomon<br />
ADVERTISING & MARKETING<br />
Head of Advertising and Sales: Jeanine Boshoff<br />
+27 21 417 1104 jeanine.boshoff@newmediapub.co.za<br />
Key Account Manager: Yvette Samaai<br />
+27 21 417 1156 yvette.samaai@newmediapub.co.za<br />
Senior Sales Executive: Tharien Nel<br />
+27 21 417 5168 tharien.nel@newmediapub.co.za<br />
Advertising Co-ordinator: Julian Petersen +27 021 417 1220<br />
Sales Designer: Marcus Viljoen<br />
“… a double espresso<br />
with hot milk on the<br />
side, enjoyed at the<br />
Woolies café at the<br />
Cape Town airport<br />
before a flight.”<br />
– Abigail Donnelly<br />
“… if I’m out,<br />
a double-shot flat<br />
white at Rosetta<br />
Roastery, made with<br />
their single-origin<br />
Ethiopian beans.<br />
At home, siphon<br />
coffee.” – Jan Ras,<br />
photographer<br />
“… a skinny flat<br />
white in a small<br />
takeaway cup on<br />
a really cold day.”<br />
– Lené Roux<br />
SUBSCRIPTIONS & DISTRIBUTION<br />
Subscriptions hotline: 087 405 2005<br />
Contact centre team leader: +27 21 530 3179<br />
PUBLISHING TEAM<br />
Group Account Director: Kelly Cloete<br />
Account Manager: Cecilia du Plessis<br />
Production Manager: Shirley Quinlan<br />
ABC Manager: Roxanne Holman 021 417 1218<br />
EXECUTIVE TEAM<br />
Managing Director: Aileen Lamb<br />
Commercial Director: Maria Tiganis<br />
Content Director: Andrew Nunneley<br />
Chief Financial Officer: Mark Oaten<br />
Chief Executive Officer: Bridget McCarney<br />
Executive Director: John Psillos<br />
Non-Executive Director: Irna van Zyl<br />
Repro by: New Media Publishing<br />
Printed by: Paarl Media Paarl<br />
Published on behalf of <strong>Woolworths</strong><br />
by New Media Publishing Pty Ltd,<br />
New Media House,<br />
19 Bree Street, Cape Town, 8001.<br />
PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town, 8051.<br />
Telephone: +27 (021) 417-1111<br />
info@newmediapub.co.za<br />
newmediapub.co.za<br />
30 150<br />
Jan-March <strong>2017</strong><br />
FEEDBACK Email taste@newmediapub.co.za, tweet @WW<strong>Taste</strong>, or visit facebook.com/wwTASTE.<br />
WINNING LETTER<br />
My friend grows guavas and from time to time<br />
gives me a generous bag of them. Not knowing<br />
how to deal with a whole lot at once, I looked<br />
on your website and found food editor Abigail<br />
Donnelly’s recipe for chilli-and-spice stewed<br />
guavas and meringue. I would never have<br />
thought chilli, rosemary and meringue even<br />
remotely synonymous with guava, but I trusted<br />
TASTE’s opinion and gave it a go. Instead of the<br />
soft meringues the recipe called for, I dried mine<br />
out, and also drizzled over a bit of balsamic<br />
vanilla glaze and added a sprig of fresh rosemary<br />
before serving. They tasted amazing and my<br />
guests were blown away. Who would’ve thought<br />
you could make such a brag-worthy dessert<br />
using humble guavas? – Gail Gunston<br />
The writer of this month’s winning letter wins<br />
six bottles each of Van Loveren’s African<br />
Java Pinotage and Blackberry Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon/Shiraz blend to the value<br />
of R712, plus a R500 <strong>Woolworths</strong> gift<br />
voucher. Enjoy your next dinner party, Gail!<br />
TW-EAT, TW-EAT<br />
@Nigella_Lawson: “Good Morning!<br />
#RecipeOfTheDay is Tequila and Lime Chicken.”<br />
We see your tequila-lime chicken, Nigella Lawson, and<br />
we raise you our ClemenGold-glazed chicken on page 76.
taste.co.za<br />
What's happening online?<br />
@WW<strong>Taste</strong><br />
WATCH OUR RECIPES COME TO LIFE!<br />
Visit facebook.com/wwTASTE/videos to indulge your senses. Entice your<br />
friends by hitting that share button.<br />
14<br />
WIN ONE OF TWO<br />
HAMPERS FROM<br />
HARTENBERG WINES<br />
Ah, winter. It’s the perfect time of year<br />
to curl up next to a fire while sipping<br />
a glass of great wine. Ensure that your<br />
supplies are topped up with one<br />
of two hampers from Hartenberg<br />
Wines worth R500 each. Visit taste.<br />
co.za/win to enter now.<br />
DO YOU HAVE A PRESSING QUESTION?<br />
ARE YOU A WHIZ IN THE KITCHEN? VISIT TASTE.CO.ZA/<br />
COMMUNITY-QUESTIONS TO ASK Ð AND<br />
ANSWER Ð ANYTHING!<br />
HOW LONG DO YOU<br />
SPEND PREPPING AND<br />
COOKING AN AVERAGE<br />
WEEKNIGHT DINNER?<br />
Less than 30 minutes 19%<br />
30 minutes to 1 hour 63%<br />
Over an hour 15%<br />
I generally default to takeaways<br />
or eating out 3%<br />
FOOD PHOTOGRAPH TOBY MURPHY PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY
Perfect, sharp, long-lasting.<br />
Perfect ergonomics and functionality. The special bolster<br />
shape ensures optimum balance and allows the entire<br />
blade to be used and sharpened. Forged from a single<br />
piece of high-alloy chromium-molybdenum-vanadium<br />
steel and hardened to 58° Rockwell. Optimum sharpness<br />
thanks to the laser-controlled PEtec sharpening process.<br />
A tool for life.<br />
wusthof.co.za<br />
Empfohlen vom Verband<br />
der Köche Deutschlands e.V.
SUBSCRIBER’S OFFER<br />
SUBSCRIBE & WIN<br />
Three TASTE readers will make a significant addition to their wine collections<br />
with three cases (that’s 18 bottles!) of wine from Weltevrede Wine Estate<br />
worth R1 758 when subscribing to TASTE for just R28 an issue<br />
16<br />
T<br />
here’s<br />
no doubt that<br />
terroir and climate<br />
play large roles in making<br />
a good wine. But the<br />
people at Weltevrede<br />
Wine Estate in Bonnievale<br />
believe that the human<br />
element is just as<br />
important. After the<br />
estate recently reached<br />
its centenary, the fourth<br />
generation of the Jonker<br />
family, winemaker Philip<br />
Jonker, bottled the<br />
Weltevrede 1912 collection<br />
to mark this momentous<br />
occasion. And instead of<br />
putting his signature on<br />
the label, he decided to<br />
record the names of every<br />
person living and working<br />
in the vineyards and winery<br />
at Weltevrede to celebrate<br />
their legacy. The result is<br />
a full-bodied Chardonnay<br />
that’s light golden in colour<br />
and displays an intense<br />
mixture of dried mango,<br />
ripe pear and ginger on<br />
the nose, with ripe lemons<br />
and marmalade on the<br />
palate. The Weltevrede<br />
1912 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
bears spice on the nose,<br />
with complex flavours of<br />
blueberries, blackberries,<br />
pomegranate, white<br />
pepper and cedar on the<br />
palate. Says Philip, “The<br />
Weltevrede 1912 wines<br />
are a culmination of more<br />
than 100 years of family<br />
heritage.” weltevrede.com<br />
Three easy<br />
ways to<br />
subscribe<br />
1. Call 087 405 2005<br />
2. SMS "Subs <strong>Taste</strong>" to 40573 (R1 per SMS)<br />
3. EMAIL subs@magsathome.co.za<br />
For digital subscriptions, visit mysubs.co.za<br />
* Offer limited to SA. Please<br />
allow time for processing and<br />
delivery. Please call 021 045 1809<br />
for international subscription<br />
rates. Offer ends 23 <strong>July</strong> <strong>2017</strong>.
COMPETITION<br />
WIN<br />
Talk about a room with a view. One lucky TASTE reader and a partner<br />
will win a two-night stay at Tintswalo Atlantic in Cape Town’s Table Mountain<br />
National Park to the value of R23 060<br />
18<br />
Right on the edge of<br />
the ocean, with views of<br />
Chapman’s Peak’s infinitely<br />
Instagrammable Sentinel,<br />
Tintswalo Atlantic is one<br />
of the Mother City’s most<br />
spectacular hidden gems.<br />
Comprising just 11 oceanfacing<br />
suites, the boutique<br />
hotel is situated in the<br />
Table Mountain National<br />
Park, making it the stuff<br />
of secluded weekend<br />
breakaway fantasies. Treat<br />
yourself to a fine-dining<br />
experience courtesy of<br />
newly appointed executive<br />
chef Guy Clark, commence<br />
the pampering with a<br />
massage, or simply sit on<br />
your own private deck with<br />
a bottle of wine and take<br />
in the amazing view.<br />
There’s no rush.<br />
tintswalo.com/atlantic<br />
THE PRIZE A two-night<br />
stay for two guests in<br />
a sea-facing island suite,<br />
including breakfast and<br />
one dinner, to the value<br />
of R23 060. The prize does<br />
not include beverages,<br />
other meals, gratuities,<br />
spa treatments, curio store<br />
purchases and transport<br />
to and from Tintswalo<br />
Atlantic. See taste.co.za<br />
for additional terms and<br />
conditions. TO ENTER,<br />
visit taste.co.za or turn to<br />
page 126 for SMS entry<br />
instructions. QUESTION:<br />
In which national park is<br />
Tintswalo Atlantic situated?<br />
KEYWORD: Tintswalo.
INGREDIENT: TURMERIC<br />
20<br />
Gofor<br />
Gold<br />
THE IMPOSSIBLE CUSTARD TART<br />
R10 PER SERVING
Ground or fresh, aromatic turmeric<br />
(a.k.a. borrie in SA) is one of the trendiest spices<br />
of the year. Make like ABIGAIL DONNELLY and add it to<br />
everything from a crustless cauliflower tart inspired<br />
by Yotam Ottolenghi, to a golden latte<br />
(move over, hot chocolate!)<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS ROBBERT KOENE<br />
RECIPES AND PRODUCTION ABIGAIL DONNELLY<br />
FOOD ASSISTANT JACQUELINE BURGESS
INGREDIENT: TURMERIC<br />
102<br />
THE IMPOSSIBLE<br />
CUSTARD TART<br />
“This dessert is impossibly delicious to eat and<br />
(bonus!) so easy it’s impossible to fail at making<br />
it. Simply blend all the ingredients, bake, serve<br />
and surrender.”<br />
Serves 6<br />
EASY<br />
GREAT VALUE<br />
Preparation: 5 minutes<br />
Baking: 45 minutes<br />
milk 1½ cups<br />
desiccated coconut 60 g<br />
butter 50 g, melted<br />
vanilla pod ½, seeds scraped<br />
free-range egg 1<br />
flour 40 g<br />
caster or coconut sugar 110 g<br />
lime 1, zested and juiced<br />
turmeric 1 t<br />
ground cardamom 1 t<br />
fresh coconut 1 t, finely grated, to garnish<br />
1 Preheat the oven to 160°C and grease an<br />
18 cm tart tin. 2 Place all the ingredients into<br />
a blender and blend until smooth. Pour the<br />
mixture into the greased tin and bake<br />
for 45 minutes, or until cooked through.<br />
3 Sprinkle over the coconut and serve.<br />
WINE: Nederburg Special Late<br />
Harvest 2016<br />
ONE-POT CHICKEN<br />
BAKED ON DHAL<br />
“The ginger, turmeric and chilli in this easy,<br />
comforting supper will warm you up from<br />
the inside.”<br />
Serves 4<br />
EASY<br />
GREAT VALUE<br />
Preparation: 15 minutes<br />
Cooking: 1½ hours<br />
olive oil 1 T<br />
butter 2 T<br />
free-range whole chicken 1.3 kg,<br />
spatchcocked<br />
red or yellow split lentils 300 g, cooked<br />
according to package instructions<br />
TURMERIC IS A GOOD<br />
MATCH WITH…<br />
almond, black pepper, cardamom,<br />
cinnamon, chilli powder, coconut,<br />
coriander, cumin, garlic, ginger.<br />
<strong>Woolworths</strong> organic chicken stock 2 cups<br />
red chillies 2, roughly chopped<br />
green chillies 2, roughly chopped<br />
garlic 3 cloves, finely grated<br />
fresh ginger 1 T, finely grated<br />
fresh turmeric 1 T, finely grated<br />
curry leaves 12<br />
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper,<br />
to taste<br />
1 Preheat the oven to 200°C. Heat a large<br />
wok or nonstick pan over a high heat.<br />
Add the olive oil and butter and sear the<br />
chicken on both sides until golden. Remove<br />
from the wok. 2 Place the cooked lentils<br />
and remaining ingredients into a large<br />
ovenproof dish. Place the chicken on top<br />
of the lentils and roast for 1½ hours, or until<br />
cooked through. Brush the chicken with<br />
melted butter every 20 minutes to keep<br />
the skin golden. Season to taste.<br />
FAT-CONSCIOUS, WHEAT- AND<br />
GLUTEN-FREE<br />
WINE: <strong>Woolworths</strong> DMZ Chenin<br />
Blanc 2016<br />
CAULIFLOWER-AND-<br />
BRINJAL TART<br />
“This moreish crustless tart, inspired by<br />
Yotam Ottolenghi’s in Plenty More, makes<br />
a substantial lunch served with a simple salad<br />
of leaves dressed with pomegranate molasses.”<br />
Serves 6<br />
EASY<br />
GREAT VALUE<br />
Preparation: 15 minutes<br />
Cooking: 30 minutes<br />
olive oil 3 T<br />
brinjals 2, diced<br />
cauliflower 1, leaves removed and broken<br />
into florets<br />
free-range eggs 8, lightly whisked<br />
flour 60 g, sifted<br />
baking powder 1 t<br />
ground turmeric 1 t (or 1 T fresh)<br />
ground coriander ½ t<br />
ground cumin ½ t<br />
goat’s cheese or feta 100 g, crumbled<br />
coriander 2 T, roughly chopped, to garnish<br />
pine nuts 30 g, lightly toasted, to garnish<br />
1 Preheat the oven to 180°C and generously<br />
grease a 20 cm tart tin. 2 Heat a little oil<br />
in a nonstick pan over a high heat. Fry the<br />
brinjals, in batches, until golden. Remove<br />
and drain on kitchen paper. 3 Add more<br />
oil to the pan and fry the cauliflower
“We’ll always love yellow rice and bobotie (thanks mom!),<br />
but I love the inventive new ways that turmeric is being used to show off<br />
its beautiful pungency and earthy flavour” – Abigail Donnelly<br />
ONE-POT CHICKEN BAKED ON DHAL<br />
R29 PER SERVING
INGREDIENT: TURMERIC<br />
florets until golden. Remove from the pan<br />
and roast for 10 minutes. 4 Combine the<br />
remaining ingredients in a large bowl.<br />
Fold through the fried brinjal and<br />
cauliflower. Pour the mixture into the<br />
greased tart tin and top with the goat’s<br />
cheese or feta. 5 Bake for 15 minutes,<br />
or until golden and cooked through.<br />
Garnish with the coriander and pine nuts.<br />
CARB-CONSCIOUS, HEALTH-CONSCIOUS,<br />
MEAT-FREE<br />
WINE: <strong>Woolworths</strong> Porcupine Ridge<br />
Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon 2016<br />
STICKY ROAST CARROTS<br />
IN BARLEY BROTH<br />
“A hearty, warming home-made broth full<br />
of flavour thanks to gratings of fresh turmeric<br />
and ginger, and a squeeze of lemon. You won’t<br />
stop at just one bowl.”<br />
Serves 4<br />
EASY<br />
GREAT VALUE<br />
Preparation: 15 minutes<br />
Cooking: 45 minutes<br />
large carrots 4, halved lengthways<br />
butter 2 T<br />
brown sugar 2 T<br />
lemon juice a squeeze<br />
beef stock 2 cups<br />
fresh turmeric 1 t finely grated<br />
fresh ginger 1 t finely grated<br />
celery 2 sticks, washed and sliced<br />
red onion 1, cut into 8 wedges<br />
bay leaves 4<br />
<strong>Woolworths</strong> ready-to-eat barley 250 g<br />
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper,<br />
to taste<br />
1 Preheat the oven to 180°C. Place the<br />
carrots on a baking tray, dot with butter and<br />
sprinkle over the sugar. Roast for 35 minutes,<br />
or until tender and caramelised. 2 Place<br />
the remaining ingredients into a saucepan<br />
and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and<br />
simmer until the celery and onion are soft.<br />
Stir through the barley and simmer for<br />
2 minutes. 3 Serve the barley broth with<br />
the glazed carrots. Season to taste.<br />
FAT-CONSCIOUS, MEAT-FREE<br />
WINE: Ashbourne Sauvignon Blanc-<br />
Chardonnay 2016<br />
120<br />
CAULIFLOWER-AND-<br />
BRINJAL TART<br />
R25 PER SERVING<br />
SPICE UP YOUR LIFE<br />
Turmeric is an ingredient in curry powder<br />
blends, as well as chutneys, pickles and<br />
mustards. Bill Granger uses it in everything<br />
from chicken dishes to his popular Indian<br />
spiced potatoes with fried eggs. And<br />
Nigella’s Happiness Soup is pure bliss in<br />
a bowl thanks to the yellow spice. Want<br />
to up your intake? Try these fast ideas.<br />
(Turmeric is extremely pungent, so go<br />
slow and add according to taste.)<br />
● Add a pinch of ground turmeric<br />
to scrambled eggs.<br />
● Make golden spiced roast potatoes<br />
by tossing parboiled potatoes in<br />
ground turmeric before roasting.<br />
● Stir ground turmeric to taste<br />
into plain yoghurt as a topping<br />
for baked potatoes.<br />
● Add a little ground turmeric to<br />
cauliflower soup to turn it a beautiful<br />
golden colour.<br />
● Blend fresh turmeric into<br />
a smoothie of coconut milk,<br />
ClemenGold segments, rolled oats,<br />
fresh ginger, honey and vanilla extract.<br />
● Make a pot of spicy turmeric tea:<br />
bring four cups water to the boil, add<br />
1 t ground turmeric and reduce to<br />
a simmer for 10 minutes. Strain into<br />
a cup, add a pinch of black pepper<br />
and honey and lemon juice to taste.<br />
● Make a dressing for salads and<br />
roast veg by combining chopped fresh<br />
turmeric with fresh coriander, honey,<br />
apple cider vinegar and olive oil.<br />
● Dust toasted coconut chips<br />
in ground turmeric.
STICKY ROAST CARROTS<br />
IN BARLEY BROTH<br />
R23 PER SERVING<br />
25<br />
SILWOOD STUDENT ASSISTANT HELLA BOROCHOWITZ
BEST EVER: INGREDIENT: PHILIPPA CHEIFITZ TURMERICRECIPES<br />
120<br />
CAN YOU SWAP<br />
FRESH AND GROUND<br />
TURMERIC?<br />
Yes, you can! The general rule of<br />
thumb for converting dried herbs<br />
or spices to fresh in a recipe is 1: 3<br />
(1 t dried spice = 1 T fresh).<br />
AND IT WAS<br />
ALL YELLOW …<br />
So you’ve peeled and chopped a<br />
piece of fresh turmeric and now your<br />
chopping board and hands match<br />
your recipe! Fresh or dried, it’ll stain<br />
just about anything. Here’s how<br />
to clean up<br />
COUNTERTOPS AND<br />
CHOPPING BOARDS: Generally,<br />
a paste of equal parts water and<br />
bicarbonate of soda left on the<br />
yellow stain for about 15 minutes,<br />
then washed with warm, soapy<br />
water, will remove the marks.<br />
HANDS AND FINGERNAILS:<br />
Soak your hands in a small, shallow<br />
bowl of white vinegar and water,<br />
or rub your hands and nails with<br />
lemon juice, then wash in hot,<br />
soapy water.<br />
THE ROOT CAUSE<br />
Here’s how to grow, store and<br />
prepare fresh turmeric<br />
PLANT a piece of fresh turmeric<br />
root in a pot of wet, sandy soil to<br />
propagate your own turmeric plant.<br />
PREPARE it for cooking by<br />
washing and scrubbing the root.<br />
You don’t have to peel it but can<br />
if you want to. Grate the root using<br />
a Microplane or cheese grater,<br />
or smash it with a garlic press<br />
or in a pestle and mortar.<br />
STORE fresh turmeric root in the<br />
fridge in a sealed Ziploc bag. You<br />
can also freeze it and grate it from<br />
frozen, as needed, directly into<br />
your dishes.<br />
Keep warm this<br />
winter by drinking<br />
one golden latte<br />
after another.<br />
It’s the hot<br />
chocolate of <strong>2017</strong>!”<br />
– Abigail<br />
Donnelly<br />
GOLDEN LATTE WITH<br />
BLACK PEPPER AND<br />
MAPLE SYRUP<br />
“Turmeric adds slight bitterness to<br />
the warm coconut milk, which is<br />
balanced by the spice of the black<br />
pepper. Sweetness comes from the<br />
maple syrup, while rose rounds<br />
it all off with a subtle floral note.<br />
It’s practically dessert!”<br />
Serves 4<br />
EASY<br />
GREAT VALUE<br />
Preparation: 5 minutes<br />
Cooking: 10 minutes<br />
coconut milk 1 x 400 ml can<br />
milk 1 cup<br />
fresh turmeric 1 t finely grated<br />
rose-water 1 T (optional)<br />
nutmeg ½ t freshly grated<br />
maple syrup 1 T<br />
black pepper, to taste<br />
dried rose petals, to garnish (optional)<br />
Place all the ingredients into a<br />
saucepan and bring to the boil.<br />
Pour into mug, crack over some<br />
black pepper and garnish with dried<br />
rose petals, if using. Serve warm.<br />
CARB-CONSCIOUS, WHEAT- AND<br />
GLUTEN-FREE
GOLDEN LATTE WITH BLACK PEPPER AND MAPLE SYRUP<br />
R23 PER SERVING<br />
27
A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N<br />
GET YOUR FRIKKADEL ON<br />
Dinner's always on a roll when there are Woolies frikkadels in the fridge. Made with coarsely<br />
minced, succulent meat and flavoured with a blend of herbs and spices, the range includes<br />
lamb, beef, chicken and a beef-and-lamb combination. Simply serve with your favourite side.<br />
Beef or chicken frikkadels with tomato-and-basil pasta<br />
Beef frikkadels with sosatie spices, paneer and flatbreads<br />
Beef, lamb or chicken frikkadels with baby spinach-and-pecorino soup<br />
Beef-and-lamb frikkadels with Malay spices and sweet potato mash<br />
PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION FOODLOOSE PRODUCTIONS FOOD ASSISTANT CLAIRE GOODERSON<br />
woolworths.co.za
PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY FOOD ASSISTANT CAMILLA REINHOLD<br />
EDITED BY ANNETTE KLINGER<br />
First<br />
<strong>Taste</strong><br />
WHAT TO EAT,<br />
KNOW, DO<br />
AND BUY NOW<br />
ARE YOU READY FOR THIS JELLY?<br />
Remember mizu shingen mochi, Japan’s internetbreaking<br />
raindrop dessert? Well, the land of the rising<br />
sun’s affections have moved on to a new wobbly<br />
wonder: kohi zeri, or coffee jelly. Even though the<br />
dessert has been around for yonks, it became an instant<br />
Instagram obsession when Starbucks Japan launched<br />
its coffee jelly frappuccino last year. Cue mass hysteria<br />
and a host of copycats worldwide. Turn the page<br />
to check out some of the new mash-ups on social<br />
media and learn how to whip up some yourself.
COFFEE JELLY<br />
Throwing a wobbly<br />
Slightly sweet, lightly whipped cream is the traditional accompaniment to coffee jelly in Japan,<br />
but, wouldn’t you know it, Instagram is all a-jiggle with personal takes on the trend<br />
30<br />
COFFEE JELLY<br />
In a medium-sized heatproof<br />
bowl, melt 4 softened gelatine<br />
leaves in 2 cups hot, strong<br />
filter coffee, sweetened to<br />
taste. Stir until completely<br />
dissolved. Pour the mixture<br />
into a baking tray about 3 cm<br />
deep, then chill until set. Cut<br />
into 2 x 2 cm cubes using<br />
a hot knife, place in a bowl<br />
and top with cream.<br />
Got milk? Latte up like Kannon Coffee in Japan.<br />
Italian blogger Giorgio Russo of Le Torte di Gio’s<br />
deconstructed tiramisu tart = genius.<br />
WHAT GOES<br />
GREAT WITH<br />
COFFEE JELLY?<br />
EQUALLY TRENDY<br />
MATCHA FROZEN<br />
YOGHURT,<br />
ACCORDING TO<br />
FRO-YO CHAIN<br />
YOGEN FRÜZ IN<br />
VIETNAM<br />
Coffee jelly instead of ice cream on your root beer<br />
float? Why not says Bröm Café Buri Ram in Thailand.<br />
You say coffee jelly frappuccino, The Green Coffee<br />
in the Philippines says coffee jelly freeziccino.<br />
“Coffee jelly, a refreshing Japanese dessert liked<br />
by geishas and samurais both,” says Kayo’s Ramen<br />
Bar in Portland, Oregon, which serves theirs<br />
espresso-style.<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS JAN RAS, THEGREENCOFFEE.PH, KANNONCOFFEE.COM, KAYOSRAMEN.COM, FACEBOOK.COM/PG/BROMCAFE, YOGENFRUZ.COM,<br />
FACEBOOK.COM/LEMIETORTEDIGIO PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY
A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N<br />
PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION FOODLOOSE PRODUCTIONS FOOD ASSISTANT CLAIRE GOODERSON<br />
UMAMI-BOMBS AWAY!<br />
When you need a hit of savoury flavour, reach for Kikkoman soy sauce, made the traditional<br />
way by fermenting water, wheat, soy beans and salt. Moreish and umami rich, its layers of<br />
flavour reveal themselves with every taste Ñ whether used as a dipping sauce for sushi, tempura<br />
or veggie fritters, or seasoning for stirfries, noodle bowls or stews. The range also includes<br />
Kikkoman less salt soy sauce and teriyaki sauce. Just a dash does the trick!<br />
Serving suggestion<br />
CABBAGE-AND-SPINACH FRITTERS<br />
Combine 2½ cups (200 g) each shredded cabbage<br />
and spinach, 4 chopped spring onions and<br />
4 cloves grated garlic in a large bowl. Combine<br />
175 g flour, 2 T rice flour and 1 t sugar and mix<br />
with 1 cup water, 1 free-range egg and 1 T teriyaki<br />
sauce to form a batter. Stir the batter through the<br />
vegetables. Fry large spoonfuls of the batter in hot<br />
oil until crisp. Serve with a dipping bowl of teriyaki<br />
sauce, chilli and finely chopped roasted peanuts.<br />
kikkoman.co.uk
PANTRY ESSENTIALS<br />
Continental drift<br />
With an arsenal of Asian store-cupboard ingredients, you can go from parathas<br />
on Monday and pad Thai on Wednesday to pho on Friday and Korean shortribs<br />
on Sunday. Who needs takeaways, right?<br />
FISH SAUCE*<br />
Detonate this umami bomb at will to give almost<br />
any Asian dish savoury depth. Its funky base note<br />
makes kimchi irresistible, it intensifies the meaty<br />
flavours of sticky Korean shortribs and instantly<br />
transforms a batch of pan-fried tofu.<br />
32<br />
PALM SUGAR<br />
It adds caramel complexity<br />
to everything from pad Thai<br />
(mashed into a curry paste<br />
with tamarind, lime, fish<br />
sauce, shrimp paste, garlic<br />
and chilli) and Gujarati dhal<br />
(it’s the sweet counterpart<br />
to the tamarind that gives<br />
the dish its signature<br />
sourness) to Vietnamese<br />
ca kho to (fish caramelised<br />
in a marinade of palm<br />
sugar, garlic, chillies and<br />
fish sauce).<br />
TAMARIND*<br />
Giving local Cape Malay denningvleis its<br />
unmistakable tartness, its flavour plays well with<br />
fishy ingredients (think Cambodian sweet-and-sour<br />
soup), peanuts and coconut milk (no satay sauce<br />
is complete without it) and aromatic spices such<br />
as cinnamon, cardamom and turmeric.<br />
DRIED CHILLIES*<br />
Run out of fresh chillies? The<br />
flavour of dried ones is slightly<br />
sweeter and milder than fresh,<br />
but when rehydrated can be<br />
transformed into just about<br />
any Asian chilli paste: Chinese<br />
la jiao jiang, Korean gochujang,<br />
Malaysian sambal tumis, Thai<br />
nam prik pao…
“GOING TO<br />
SOUTHEAST<br />
ASIA FOR THE<br />
FIRST TIME AND<br />
TASTING THE<br />
SPECTRUM OF<br />
FLAVOURS –<br />
THAT CHANGED<br />
MY WHOLE<br />
PALATE, THE<br />
KIND OF FOODS<br />
I CRAVE”<br />
– ANTHONY<br />
BOURDAIN<br />
GALANGAL<br />
Muskier and more peppery<br />
than its kissing cousin<br />
ginger, it’s essential to Thai<br />
curry pastes (Red! Green!<br />
Massaman!), Singaporean<br />
laksa and Indonesian<br />
rendang. Fresh galangal isn’t<br />
readily available in SA; you<br />
can find the dried version at<br />
Asian supermarkets. To use,<br />
soak in boiled water until<br />
soft, about 30 minutes.<br />
PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY FOOD ASSISTANT CAMILLA REINHOLD<br />
SESAME OIL*<br />
A little of this<br />
seedy operator<br />
adds nuttiness and<br />
body to dressings,<br />
marinades, stirfries<br />
and soups. How<br />
do we love thee<br />
Chinese sesame<br />
noodles? Just<br />
about as much as<br />
we love Korean<br />
bulgogi (marinated<br />
barbequed meat),<br />
Japanese ramen<br />
bowls and Burmese<br />
sesame beef.<br />
THAI LIME LEAVES*<br />
Name a southeast Asian dish and we bet you<br />
it’ll star these perfumed leaves. Indonesian<br />
beef rendang? Check. Thai tom yum goong<br />
soup? Yep. Malaysian laksa? Right again.<br />
Filipino chicken adobo? You’re starting<br />
to get the picture.<br />
RICE VINEGAR*<br />
A key ingredient in<br />
Japanese sushi rice and<br />
pickled ginger, Chinese<br />
potato salad (you’ll<br />
never want to make<br />
yours with mayo again)<br />
and Indonesian nasi<br />
goreng, it’s much milder<br />
than Western vinegar,<br />
with a hint of sweetness.<br />
*Available at selected Woolies stores.
3 WAYS WITH...<br />
… sweet potato<br />
Can you hear that? They’re playing your yam! Stay tuned for everybody’s favourite ’tater – smothered<br />
in butter and cream, topped with a spicy salsa and fried with a fragrant masala<br />
2<br />
1<br />
Sweet potato gratin<br />
1. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Layer<br />
3 large thinly sliced sweet potatoes<br />
on an ovenproof plate or baking tray<br />
with 2 finely chopped garlic cloves,<br />
2 finely chopped shallots, 50 g butter<br />
and ½ cup cream, seasoning with salt<br />
and pepper between each layer.<br />
2. Sprinkle over 50 g grated Parmesan<br />
and bake for 25 minutes, or until<br />
the sweet potato is cooked and<br />
the cheese is melted.<br />
3<br />
Potato aloo sarmies<br />
1. Boil 3 peeled and halved<br />
sweet potatoes in salted water<br />
until tender. Drain and set<br />
aside. 2. Heat 2 T butter and<br />
1 T coconut oil in a pan over<br />
a medium heat and fry<br />
1 chopped red onion, 2 t<br />
cumin, 1 t dried chilli flakes,<br />
6 dried curry leaves, 2 t curry<br />
powder and 2 T mustard<br />
seeds. Drizzle over the juice<br />
of 1 lemon and season to taste.<br />
3. Cube the sweet potatoes and<br />
toss with the onion and spices.<br />
Divide the mixture between<br />
4 slices wholewheat or rye<br />
bread, top with another slice<br />
and toast in a sandwich maker.<br />
Mexican-style sweet potatoes<br />
1. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Rub 4 whole sweet<br />
potatoes with olive oil and salt, then roast for<br />
30 minutes. 2. Slice the sweet potatoes in half<br />
and top with cubed avocado, sour cream,<br />
sliced red onion, fresh coriander, halved cherry<br />
tomatoes and fresh, chopped chilli to taste.<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS JAN RAS, DONNA LEWIS, SADIQAH ASSUR-ISMAIL AND CHRISTOPH HEIERLI<br />
PRODUCTION ABIGAIL DONNELLY AND HANNAH LEWRY
A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N<br />
THE GOOD AND THE GRATE<br />
There's hard cheese, and then there's Parmigiano Reggiano, made the same way it was<br />
nine centuries ago, abiding by rigorous centuries-old techniques, natural fermentation<br />
and an ageing process lasting a minimum of 12 months. The result is a firm, nutty cheese<br />
with a granular texture that takes cheeseboards, risottos, pastas and salads to new<br />
heights. Look out for the PDO and Parmigiano Reggiano dotted marks on the cheese's<br />
rind for your guarantee of authenticity.<br />
woolworths.co.za<br />
Serving suggestion<br />
MUSHROOM RISOTTO<br />
Fry 250 g chopped mushrooms in 2 T butter until<br />
soft. Reserve half the mushrooms and add 2 sliced<br />
shallots and more butter to the pan and fry until<br />
softened. Stir in 200 g arborio rice and simmer<br />
for 3 minutes. Add 1 cup white wine and stir until<br />
absorbed. Add 4–5 cups hot vegetable stock,<br />
1 cup at a time, stirring until absorbed and the<br />
grains are al dente. Stir through a generous handful<br />
of grated Parmigiano Reggiano and extra butter.<br />
Top with the reserved mushrooms, 100 g artichoke<br />
hearts and extra cheese.<br />
PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION FOODLOOSE<br />
PRODUCTIONS FOOD ASSISTANT CLAIRE GOODERSON
MY FAVOURITE TABLE<br />
minutes with<br />
Jan-Hendrik van der Westhuizen<br />
It was go, go, go for SA’s own Michelin man when he was recently in Cape Town for the Good Food & Wine<br />
Show. That’s why TASTE was stoked to tag along to the Olive Branch Deli where he stocked<br />
up on homegrown goodies for Restaurant JAN<br />
36<br />
You’ve just come from visiting your<br />
folks on their farm in Mpumalanga.<br />
What did you eat?<br />
We braaied every evening. Also, my Ouma<br />
Hessie knows that everytime I visit she has<br />
to make her green beans, so she made<br />
that: beans with cream and white pepper.<br />
I just wanted to eat beef during this trip,<br />
good South African beef. France’s beef<br />
doesn’t compare, and it’s really expensive.<br />
What else … we ate preserved guavas<br />
with Ideal milk. Just lekker plaaskos.<br />
Nothing fancy.<br />
You recently got married. Did you<br />
do the menu?<br />
No, Maranda Engelbrecht did. She sent<br />
it through, I made some tweaks, but I<br />
just felt that this is the one day I’m gonna<br />
stand back and drink Champagne. The<br />
highlight was definitely the suckling<br />
spit-roasted pigs with pomegranates<br />
in their mouths. She served it with<br />
a kapokbos-and-apple sauce, the waiters<br />
carried them around the tables and<br />
carved as they went.<br />
Do you remember, back in 2012, you<br />
sent in a recipe for naartjie crêpes<br />
with salted caramel sauce for the<br />
TASTE reader’s issue?<br />
I do! At that stage of my life I was working<br />
on a yacht as a private chef, two years<br />
before I opened JAN. I cooked for<br />
a Swedish family. It’s actually thanks<br />
to them that I opened the restaurant.<br />
They constantly pushed me, saying<br />
I really needed to share my food with<br />
other people. Frederick and Jenny, nice<br />
people. They were at our wedding.<br />
So, JAN’s Michelin star has been<br />
renewed. How did you celebrate<br />
this time around?<br />
All the chefs gathered on Monday, our<br />
off-day, and we pretty much watched<br />
the social feed. And then we just basically<br />
all shouted and opened Graham Beck<br />
bubbly and drank the whole day, just<br />
having a really good time.<br />
You’re in Cape Town for the Good<br />
Food & Wine Show. What else is on<br />
your to-do list, food wise?<br />
There’s not really a lot of time outside the<br />
show, but I’m trying to eat at as many<br />
restaurants as I can. Tonight I’m going<br />
to try Foxcroft, the other day we ate at<br />
Thali, which was amazing, and where<br />
else … Willoughby’s. It’s my one-stop<br />
shop, in and out for a quick plate of<br />
sushi. Sushi is really rare in France. And it’s<br />
expensive. €70 for a couple of pieces.<br />
Are you worried about not being<br />
at your restaurant?<br />
I usually am, but I’m getting better. You<br />
have to learn to let go and trust. That<br />
bunch is so geared up. There’s almost<br />
150 steps in place just for the front<br />
of house. Everyone knows exactly<br />
what to do.<br />
CATCH JAN-HENDRIK AT THE GOOD FOOD & WINE<br />
SHOW IN JOHANNESBURG FROM 28–30 JULY;<br />
GOODFOODANDWINESHOW.CO.ZA<br />
What’s currently on the menu?<br />
It’s spring over there, going slightly<br />
into summer. We have artichoke with<br />
mieliepap and sunflower seeds; a tuna<br />
dish with chakalaka, onion panna cotta<br />
and deep-fried onion rings, just like we<br />
enjoy eating them in South Africa – I’m<br />
actually going to dem that dish at the<br />
show. Our amuse bouche is bobotie<br />
inside an egg. Kind of like a Scotch egg,<br />
but we fill it with guinea fowl bobotie,<br />
and the custard sets in the egg. It’s kind<br />
of conceptual, you see this egg coming<br />
to the table and don’t really know what<br />
you’re getting. There’s also an edible<br />
candle of kaaiings and pork fat with our<br />
famous mosbolletjies. The French love<br />
them. For mains there’s a Bresse chicken<br />
served with mustard-and-buchu jus,<br />
with the foot still attached.<br />
We actually saw that on Instagram…<br />
Ja, the South Africans really had a go<br />
at me for it. And I was quite surprised<br />
because, come on, this is a runaway!<br />
PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS INTERVIEW ANNETTE KLINGER
Olive Branch Deli, Shop G5-2, Lifestyle<br />
on Kloof Centre, 50 Kloof Street,<br />
Gardens, Cape Town; tel: 073 847 5499;<br />
olivebranchdeli.com.
ANATOMY OF A DISH<br />
Bibim-bopping<br />
Ordering bibimbap at Korean restaurant Soju is a revelation. A piping-hot, custom-made<br />
stone bowl, filled to the brim, arrives at your table, just waiting for you to get to the best<br />
bit. Spoiler alert: it’s at the bottom<br />
1<br />
2<br />
7<br />
8<br />
6<br />
4<br />
3<br />
5
1. THE BOWL: Called a dolsot in Korean, Soju<br />
heats up this special stone bowl on a gas stove<br />
until red hot. The residual heat keeps cooking the<br />
rice, so that by the time you get to the bottom,<br />
it has formed an addictively delicious crust.<br />
“It’s a happy, happy smell,” says co-owner Rota Yi,<br />
affectionately known as Soju Mama.<br />
2. THE RICE: Plain white rice grains are<br />
cooked in an electric steamer with just<br />
a sprinkling of salt until sticky.<br />
3. THE MINCE: “The steak mince is top<br />
quality, so we want to keep its flavour pure,”<br />
says Soju Mama. “We fry it over a gas flame,<br />
then drain it of oil, and fry it again with only<br />
garlic and salt.”<br />
4. THE VEGETABLES: The veggies change<br />
according to season, but you’ll usually find baby<br />
marrow, carrots and shiitake mushrooms –<br />
stirfried separately – putting in an appearance.<br />
5. THE SAUCE: Soju Mama is pretty secretive<br />
about the exact contents of the hot sauce<br />
she makes, saying it’ll take hours to explain …<br />
She is willing to concede that she uses traditional<br />
Korean chilli paste, or gochujang, to give it<br />
its heat. A small amount is folded through<br />
the dish at the end.<br />
PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY FOOD ASSISTANT CAMILLA REINHOLD<br />
6. THE EGG: Sunny side up, with crispy edges,<br />
the egg is a great foil for the heat of the chilli.<br />
If you’re lucky, Soju Mama will step in and show<br />
you how to fold it into the rest of the dish using<br />
your chopsticks (she takes the liberty of doing<br />
it for you).<br />
7. THE FINISHING TOUCHES: A dash<br />
of sesame oil, a sprinkling of sesame seeds and<br />
a last drizzle of hot sauce does the trick.<br />
8. THE SIDES: Many of the ingredients for<br />
the sides come from Soju Mama’s own vegetable<br />
garden, so also vary with the seasons. Pickled<br />
beetroot, carrots and green beans, radish and<br />
cabbage kimchis, bean sprouts, seaweed and<br />
sticky-sweet fermented yellow soya beans are<br />
all regular accompaniments.<br />
Korean Soju Restaurant, 265A Main Road, Sea Point, Cape Town;<br />
Tel: 072 736 7845.<br />
You<br />
Tube
WHAT I KNOW NOW<br />
Ben Shewry<br />
The head chef and owner of Melbourne’s Attica – recently ranked number 32 on the World’s 50 Best<br />
Restaurants list – on incorporating Australian Aboriginal ingredients on his menu, the importance<br />
of kindness and how he spends his Sundays (it involves kangaroos)<br />
I decided to be a chef at age five. My mother,<br />
Kaye Shewry, agrees. I didn’t do cooking in<br />
high school until the last year because it wasn’t<br />
complicated enough. I was already well ahead<br />
of anything that they could teach me. I had<br />
worked in professional kitchens from around<br />
the age of 10 – and it was very intoxicating,<br />
exciting. Overall, I think it’s my mum’s influence.<br />
It was 1982 and it’s not like there were TV chefs<br />
around. We didn’t even have TV.<br />
36<br />
As young children, we had amazing<br />
freedom. My parents had a sheep farm<br />
in Taranaki, New Zealand. It was a hard land<br />
to farm and money was short. My mother<br />
had a huge vegetable garden; at the time<br />
I didn’t realise that was because of our<br />
financial situation.<br />
I had a fascination with Thai cooking.<br />
That’s also why I moved to Australia. I had<br />
exhausted my learning options in New Zealand.<br />
I was inspired by Australian chefs such as<br />
Neil Perry, Maggie Beer and Cheong Liew.<br />
My wife, Natalia, and I moved in 2002. I’d been<br />
to Sydney, but I didn’t like it as a place to live –<br />
it’s too full on. I heard about Melbourne being<br />
lovely, so I came here to learn to cook Thai food.<br />
But when I arrived, there was no good Thai<br />
food. So, it was a bit of a funny situation.<br />
[Attica started as a Thai restaurant.]<br />
Independence is what makes Attica, Attica.<br />
It’s a standalone business owned by my wife<br />
and I for the past two years. There are no<br />
backers. There is no influence other than myself<br />
and my staff and the country, of course.<br />
For a city restaurant, we have a huge<br />
garden – about 15 acres. We rent it from the<br />
National Trust and grow 100 different types of<br />
plants. The chefs do it though, no gardeners. We<br />
grow plants dating back 50 000 years that were<br />
important sources for the Australian Aboriginal<br />
people. This garden carries the history of the<br />
First Australians, the European settlement and<br />
the first Chinese settlers, who arrived just six<br />
years after. I wanted the chefs to be in there<br />
because it’s good for their mental wellbeing.<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS ATTICA INTERVIEW ISHAY GOVENDER-YPMA
Selecting who you work with is crucial.<br />
I underestimated this in the beginning. By choosing kindhearted<br />
souls, we create a positive environment. At Attica,<br />
we choose based on the quality of the human being, in<br />
terms of their personality and their kindness. The team<br />
gathers in a circle at 4 pm every day. There’s a roster and<br />
each member has a turn at a prepared speech.<br />
People put in massive effort – they do PowerPoint<br />
presentations, they do projects and bring the results,<br />
they do tastings, we watch films. It’s a way to connect<br />
chefs and front of house, too.<br />
I’ve been through depression. It’s an issue that strikes<br />
our industry as much as anybody else’s, but we never, ever<br />
talk about it. I realised it’s important to have a true mentor,<br />
somebody outside the restaurant and family who you<br />
can confide in regularly. You can get trapped in a bit<br />
of a tunnel and small things can build up. Lance Wiffin<br />
(a fisherman) is a mentor who helped me when I was<br />
struggling. New Zealand chef Mark Limacher has also<br />
been a constant mentor and sounding board for many<br />
years. He’s an excellent chef and a very smart businessman.<br />
I like competitive sport. That’s why I enjoy basketball.<br />
I like to push myself, my body. My son, Kobe, showed huge<br />
passion for it from five, and so I’ve coached him and his<br />
team for years. I have sports that I share with my daughters<br />
as well, like mountain-biking with Ella. Every Sunday we<br />
ride in the forest or the bush with the kangaroos.<br />
Follow @benshewry on Twitter and Instagram.<br />
C<br />
M<br />
Y<br />
CM<br />
MY<br />
CY<br />
CMY<br />
K<br />
This spread, clockwise from far left: Ben in Attica’s 15-acre vegetable<br />
garden; a dramatic interior sets the stage; whipped emu egg sabayon and<br />
sugar bag-bee honey; “An imperfect history of Ripponlea as told by tarts”<br />
recreates moments of Ripponlea, the suburb where Attica is located.
TASTES THAT BIND<br />
PUMPKIN PATCH<br />
A little sugar and a dash of cinnamon can keep a small boy busy in the kitchen,<br />
and turn pumpkin into one of his favourite foods, says SAM WOULIDGE<br />
PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY<br />
42<br />
My mom’s attitude to children and<br />
vegetables alternated between<br />
encouragement (“If you eat all your<br />
pumpkin your hair will grow out nice<br />
and curly”) and punishment (“If you don’t<br />
eat your pumpkin then you’re not leaving<br />
this table”).<br />
I hated pumpkin, mostly because my<br />
ma did not adhere to the old-fashioned<br />
Afrikaans school of culinary philosophical<br />
thought, namely that life was bitter, so<br />
vegetables should be sweet. There was<br />
never any sugar sprinkled on our pumpkin.<br />
Or on our carrots. Nor on our gem<br />
squash. And definitely not on our mielies.<br />
Vegetables were steamed and lightly salted.<br />
Buttered if we were being indulged. Even<br />
sweet potatoes – the very name insists on<br />
them being served sweet – were served<br />
in their skins with only blobs of butter for<br />
company. But on very rare, very special<br />
occasions, pumpkin became party fare<br />
when it was fried into plump fritters and<br />
sprinkled with cinnamon sugar. I remember<br />
these pampoenkoekies well because when<br />
they did make their sweet appearance,<br />
I ate them without complaining, focusing<br />
instead on the cinnamon sugar-topumpkin<br />
ratio and imagining them to be<br />
a sort of vegetable consolation prize, since<br />
pancakes were obviously not on offer.<br />
My husband, Jacques, whose Afrikaans<br />
mother had married the eldest son of an<br />
Afrikaans Free State farmer, grew up eating<br />
pampoenkoekies on a regular basis. He<br />
recalls a childhood of sweet vegetables.<br />
My Afrikaans mother had married an<br />
English-speaking South African, so perhaps<br />
it was for this reason that her cooking style<br />
wasn’t as traditionally Afrikaans as it might<br />
have otherwise been. Growing up, my<br />
identity was complex. “But what am I?”<br />
I would ask my parents, when the taunts<br />
of other children became too much; when<br />
the English kids called me a “rock spider”<br />
and the Afrikaans kids called me a “soutie”.<br />
“You are South African,” my ma and dad<br />
insisted time and time again.<br />
Now I have a son with an identity even<br />
more complex than mine. He has an<br />
Afrikaans father, a partly English mother<br />
and, by birth, his heritage is Xhosa.<br />
As parents, Jacques and I are determined<br />
that he be proud of all parts of his identity,<br />
but, just as my parents did for me, we will<br />
also teach him that he is, above all, a South<br />
African. And that means an amalgamation<br />
of languages and stories and flavours.<br />
With this in mind, I learned how<br />
to make pampoenkoekies the way my<br />
mother-in-law makes them. I made them<br />
for Jacques, because he loves them and<br />
because they remind him of his childhood<br />
and of his Free State Ouma Phoebe. And<br />
I made them for Seb, so that he too can<br />
one day have childhood taste memories<br />
that are similar to those of his father. As I<br />
sprinkled the cinnamon sugar on the puffy<br />
fritters, I smiled in memory of my own ma,<br />
turned to my son, whose beautiful crop<br />
of dreadlocked curls proudly proclaim his<br />
blackness, and said to him, “If you eat these<br />
pampoenkoekies, your hair will stay curly.”<br />
Then we ate those sweet pumpkin fritters<br />
in memory of those who had gone before.<br />
Because we are all the sum of our parts. W<br />
confessionsofahungrywoman.com;<br />
@samwoulidge<br />
PUMPKIN FRITTERS<br />
This is one of Seb’s favourite things to<br />
make, the mushing and mixing appeals<br />
to him as much as the sprinkling of the<br />
cinnamon sugar does. In our family we<br />
believe pampoenkoekies are best eaten<br />
piping hot, while standing around the<br />
kitchen table.<br />
Makes 12<br />
EASY<br />
GREAT VALUE<br />
Preparation: 20 minutes<br />
Cooking: 20 minutes<br />
pumpkin 500 g, steamed, drained<br />
and cooled<br />
free-range eggs 2, beaten<br />
cake flour 60 g<br />
baking powder 1 heaped t<br />
salt a pinch<br />
butter and oil, for frying<br />
cinnamon sugar, for sprinkling<br />
1 Mash the cooled, steamed pumpkin<br />
with a fork once. (I’m lazy so I buy the<br />
ready-cubed pumpkin in packets and<br />
steam it in the microwave according<br />
to package instructions). 2 Add the<br />
beaten eggs and mix. Sift in the cake<br />
flour, baking powder and salt. 3 Melt<br />
a little butter in a pan and add a little<br />
oil. When it starts sizzling, drop in<br />
heaped teaspoons of batter, making<br />
sure that they are nicely spaced<br />
apart, and fry each side until lightly<br />
browned. 4 Remove from pan and<br />
drain on kitchen paper. 5 Sprinkle<br />
with cinnamon sugar and eat warm.<br />
HEALTH-CONSCIOUS, MEAT-FREE<br />
WINE: <strong>Woolworths</strong> Shannon<br />
Sauvignon Blanc 2016<br />
PORTRAIT MICHAEL LE GRANGE
“I MADE<br />
PAMPOENKOEKIES FOR<br />
SEB, SO THAT ONE DAY<br />
HE CAN HAVE CHILDHOOD<br />
TASTE MEMORIES THAT<br />
ARE SIMILAR TO THOSE<br />
OF HIS FATHER”
#TASTESLIKEMORE<br />
CALIFORNIA DREAMIN’<br />
Food always brings people together says former chef Ilana<br />
Sharlin Stone, feeling a pang of nostalgia for the staff breakfasts she<br />
shared in LA kitchens with her Latino “family” of waiters and chefs<br />
PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY<br />
44<br />
Recently, I’ve become a morning<br />
coffee fly at Foxcroft Bakery, located<br />
inside Foxcroft Restaurant in Constantia.<br />
You’ll often find me there before 10 am,<br />
drinking my Americano (my country<br />
of origin and drink of choice) at a table<br />
with a view of the restaurant’s inner<br />
workings, a view that’s slightly obscured<br />
by the hanging chorizos and bresaolas<br />
in the glassed-in charcuterie room,<br />
and shelves of Foxcroft-made merch:<br />
flavoured salts, poached quinces and<br />
other edible goodies.<br />
Sure, I love the coffee (Tribe) and<br />
the occasional flaky pastry I give myself<br />
permission to devour, but to me the<br />
greatest attraction is the morning<br />
restaurant kitchen vibe, which injects me<br />
Find Ilana’s recipe for transformative LA kitchen<br />
huevos at taste.co.za.<br />
with a dose of pure sunshine nostalgia.<br />
The sounds and smells of prep work,<br />
charcuterie and patisserie in progress,<br />
and the sight of smiling chefs balancing<br />
whole fish on trays as they make their<br />
way upstairs from the basement to the<br />
line, really peel away the layers. They take<br />
me back to before I left the chef business,<br />
and long before I moved from one CA<br />
(California) to another: Cape Town. Back to<br />
what was my happy place for many years.<br />
In a kitchen, the beginning of the day<br />
shift is the magic hour. Before the pressure<br />
of service. While everybody is quietly<br />
doing their thing. When the only sounds<br />
are the happy buzz of knifework, mixers,<br />
food processors, occasional chit-chat and<br />
a distant espresso machine; and in some<br />
kitchens, music. In Californian kitchens,<br />
Latin music from local Spanish-language<br />
radio stations was blasted before service<br />
by food-speckled, beat-up tinny<br />
radios. The songs, mostly from<br />
south of the border, were a mix<br />
of guitar-driven, wrist-slashing<br />
ballads and get-up-and-party<br />
salsa, and they were interspersed<br />
with cheesy adverts for hit-andrun<br />
accident lawyers and the<br />
news, delivered en Español<br />
at la velocidad de la luz (the<br />
speed of light).<br />
In the LA and San Francisco<br />
restaurants where I worked, many<br />
employees were Latino. This<br />
meant predominantly Mexican,<br />
but also Guatemalan, Ecuadorian<br />
and Salvadoran. All spoke<br />
Spanish, and anywhere from very<br />
little to fluent English. Working<br />
side by side, I tried to expand my<br />
command of Español, which was<br />
limited to one year of high-school<br />
Spanish and the kitchen Spanish<br />
I’d picked up on the job. I could<br />
say lechuga for lettuce, ostras for<br />
oysters, bien cocido for well done<br />
(as in steak), caserolas limpias,<br />
por favor for “Clean pans, please”,<br />
“THESE HUEVOS<br />
(EGGS) ARE A KICK-<br />
ASS BREAKFAST AND<br />
WAY TO START THE<br />
DAY. IT’S ALSO A DISH<br />
THAT MAKES ME BRIM<br />
WITH GRATITUDE”<br />
and chingadera, a too-rude-to-be-literallytranslated<br />
word for whatchamacallit, used<br />
when a word or name of an item eludes you.<br />
Besides this useful vocabulary, I learned<br />
the proper method for shaping and<br />
wrapping tamales in corn husks, that the<br />
inner translucent skin of an onion, when<br />
applied to a hectic finger cut, could stop<br />
the bleeding, and that the Latino men<br />
I worked with were sending much of their<br />
earnings back to their wives and children<br />
in their home countries.<br />
In the morning, this mix of cultures all<br />
regularly converged into a Latino hybrid<br />
staff breakfast concoction of scrambled<br />
eggs with sautéed onion, tomato, cilantro<br />
(coriander), avocado and hot sauce,<br />
piled into fresh corn tortillas, consumed<br />
communally an hour or two after the shift<br />
started. It was a no-brainer to make, yet<br />
transformative to eat.<br />
Just as it’s impossible to be unhappy<br />
when you’re working in the kitchen doing<br />
something you love, there’s no way you<br />
can’t have a big smile on your face when<br />
eating these huevos (eggs). A kick-ass<br />
breakfast and way to start the day, it’s also<br />
a dish that makes me brim with gratitude,<br />
to have experienced the commitment,<br />
camaraderie and teamwork of chefs from<br />
many places. We’ve shared so much more<br />
than huevos. W<br />
Ilana Sharlin Stone is a Cape-based freelance writer.<br />
Find her online at findingumami.capetown<br />
PORTRAIT SIMONA STONE FOOD ASSISTANT CAMILLA REINHOLD
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SCENE STEALER<br />
7 BIG LITTLE<br />
REASONS TO VISIT<br />
ROBERTSON<br />
Beyond the buzz of its popular festivals and famous wine estates, there’s<br />
another story to the Robertson Wine Valley – a tale of big personalities<br />
who love celebrating the small things in life<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS JAN RAS TEXT ANNETTE KLINGER<br />
46<br />
The Robertson Wine Valley’s unique aspect and climate result in exceptional wines.<br />
Once a year, as winter approaches, the inevitable question on Capetonians’ minds is: “Are we doing Wacky this year?” You see, there<br />
are no half measures when it comes to the Wacky Wine Weekend (1–4 June) when the valley – including Robertson, Ashton,<br />
Bonnievale and McGregor – welcomes a deluge of visitors who shuttle from farm to farm, making the most of their six tasting<br />
coupons per winery. There’s so much more to this neck of the woods, though. For folks keen on enjoying Robertson closer to its<br />
natural laid-back state, the Slow Festival (4–6 August <strong>2017</strong>) offers leisurely estate lunches and food and wine masterclasses. And,<br />
if you entertain fantasies of drinking champers on a boat (who doesn’t?), Wine on the River (20–22 October) lets you catch a cruise<br />
on the Breede River between all your sipping and snacking. But one of the best times to visit is when there’s nothing scheduled,<br />
locals are going about their business, and you can have this beautiful destination more or less to yourself.<br />
robertsonwinevalley.com; wackywineweekend.com; robertsonslow.com; wineonriver.com
1. STAY IN THE LITTLE<br />
HOTEL THAT COULD<br />
All architectural greys and crisp white<br />
broekielace, the Robertson Small Hotel might<br />
look like an old-world sophisticate from the<br />
outside, but inside this Victorian gal beats<br />
the heart of a hipster. Because, for all her 116<br />
years, the building’s new contempo-quirky<br />
interior suits her perfectly. The revamp,<br />
driven by owner Abigail Rands, has played<br />
up The Small’s friendlier, more humorous<br />
side. “While the level of luxury is high, I didn’t<br />
want the surroundings to intimidate or<br />
show off,” says interior designer Sophie<br />
Ashby from Studio Ashby in London. Sophie,<br />
who is a childhood friend of Abigail’s,<br />
collaborated with local young creatives<br />
including textile designer Alexis Barrell,<br />
ceramicist Michael Chandler and SMITH<br />
studio curator Amy Ellenbogen to breathe<br />
new life into the space, which includes ten<br />
en-suite rooms, a spa, a bar and a restaurant.<br />
“It’s now full of art, design, colour and soul.”<br />
Abigail wanted the food to follow suit<br />
and steered the menu away from fiddly<br />
foams and gels. She asked Sophie’s sister,<br />
Rose, who is a chef at Skye Gyngell’s<br />
Spring restaurant in London, to consult<br />
and the result is food that leans heavily on<br />
seasonal produce and ingredients from the<br />
valley, including olive oil and tapenades<br />
from award-winning Marbrin Olives, rose<br />
geranium cordial from Owl’s Rest lavender<br />
and olive farm, and wines from local estates.<br />
Since March <strong>2017</strong>, local chef Mariska<br />
Hennig has headed up the kitchen,<br />
incorporating a modern bistro spin: hearty<br />
classics such as five-spice duck breast with<br />
celeriac mash, and beef fillet with garlicand-onion<br />
purée, are elevated with refined,<br />
playful plating. It’s a yin and yang echoed in,<br />
and complemented by, the décor. Tables are<br />
set with starched linen and silverware … and<br />
quirky ceramic cow, pig or horse sculptures<br />
(custom made for The Small by local<br />
ceramicists Rialheim Studios) to play real-life<br />
Farmville with. There are masculine custommade<br />
leather-and-wood dining chairs,<br />
whimsical free-form ceramic lampshades,<br />
and a revolving collection of original art that<br />
appeals to fans of abstract minimalism and<br />
offbeat illustrations alike.<br />
This is a place where painstaking<br />
attention has been paid to the details. Not<br />
the least of which is The Small Guide, a<br />
carefully curated mini-compendium of food<br />
and drink experiences that extend beyond<br />
wine tasting. The only catch? You have to<br />
check in to check out the whole guide.<br />
therobertsonsmallhotel.com<br />
1<br />
45
2<br />
4. EAT ALL THE<br />
CHARCUTERIE<br />
(AND STOCK UP ON<br />
BREAKFAST WINE)<br />
Businessman turned viticulturalist<br />
Theunis de Jongh is what you might<br />
call an autodidact in the field of winemaking,<br />
but that didn’t stop him from<br />
bagging a Michelangelo gold award for<br />
Kleinhoekkloof’s first ever Shiraz (the 2011<br />
vintage), made to a soundtrack of Pink<br />
Floyd, no less. After completing a course<br />
under charcuterie king Neil Jewel (of Bread<br />
& Wine restaurant fame), reading up and<br />
“watching a lot of YouTube videos”, Theunis<br />
started making his own bresaola, culatello,<br />
prosciutto, Italian-style salami, coppa and<br />
Spanish ham using Glen Oakes' free-range<br />
pork to serve with the estate’s seven wines<br />
at the tasting room. Theunis’s daughter<br />
Danielle has subsequently joined him in the<br />
cellar, and maintains their Merlot rosé is the<br />
perfect partner for bacon (preferably theirs)<br />
and eggs. Breakfast wine? Genius.<br />
kleinhoekkloof.co.za<br />
48<br />
2. UNLEASH YOUR INNER BEEKEEPER<br />
Farmer Redbeard – or Albertus van Zyl as he’s known to his friends – is one of the area’s<br />
best-kept secrets. Along with his wife, Pat, he lives for offering city slickers a slice of farm<br />
life. Whether this entails picking fruit in his orchard, harvesting and stomping grapes, or<br />
collecting honey from his hives (there are beekeeper suits to keep you sting free), depends<br />
on the season. If you’re more of a sit-back-and-watch type, take a tractor ride through the<br />
vineyards and up into a eucalyptus forest where you can chill out, sip on the farm’s smallbatch<br />
wines or moerkoffie (brewed in an enamel pot on a camp fire) and enjoy a traditional<br />
bush braai. There’s even a converted red bus to crash in (things can get wild up there).<br />
farmerredbeard.co.za<br />
3. GET BEER FROM<br />
A STONE<br />
The reason why the beers at<br />
3 4<br />
Saggy Stone microbrewery are<br />
so chuggable, according to<br />
their maker Adrian Robinson:<br />
spring water, from the top of the<br />
Langeberg mountains, filtered<br />
through moss and over granite.<br />
Of course it helps that Adrian<br />
knows his way around a brewery.<br />
And that the brewery is set in<br />
one of the most beautiful areas in<br />
the Nuy Valley. If you’re in a hurry,<br />
simply stop by to fill your car boot<br />
with California Steam, Big Red Ale,<br />
Desert Lager and Dark Horse (but<br />
don’t be, because you’ll miss the<br />
wood-fired pizza). saggystone.co.za
SCENE STEALER<br />
6. MEET SA’S ANSWER<br />
TO COINTREAU<br />
While Tanagra Private Cellar has no<br />
shortage of wines, you’ll want to stick<br />
around for the hard tack. Owner and<br />
distiller Robert Rosenbach has quite a<br />
knack for crafting delicious single-variety<br />
grappas using grape skins from nearby<br />
Springfield Estate. When it’s not harvest<br />
time, he distills eau de vie from the<br />
peaches, apricots, quinces and lemons<br />
grown on the farm. He’s also turned his<br />
talents to making an orange liqueur that’s<br />
just begging to be flambéed in your next<br />
stack of crêpes Suzette. tanagra-wines.co.za<br />
5 6<br />
5. CHANNEL QUEEN ELIZABETH I<br />
Word is, QE1 thought no breakfast was royal enough unless there was some lavender<br />
conserve on the table. Knowing little tidbits like this comes with the territory if you happen<br />
to buy a lavender and olive farm, as Hedley and Patricia Manicorn did when they retired<br />
from the rat race. While Owl’s Rest’s main claim to fame is its essential oils and eco-friendly<br />
beauty and household products (all made by Hedley, a chemical engineer), there’s also<br />
a teeny-tiny café among the groves where you can make like a monarch and enjoy your<br />
lavender marmalade on freshly baked muffins (both made by Trish) with a cuppa. Oh, and<br />
their rose geranium cordial? Great with sparkling water; even better with gin. owlsrest.co.za<br />
49<br />
7<br />
7. STRIKE OIL<br />
Robertson has a couple of great olive oil producers worth a visit and Marbrin Olive Growers is a good place to start. The estate’s intense extra<br />
virgin olive oil was recently named one of Absa’s top five in the country. Farmer and olive-oil maker Clive Heymans is happy to take you<br />
through a tasting of the collection, which includes delicate, medium and intense extra virgin olive oils (all cold extracted from a blend of<br />
Mission, Coratina, Frantoio and Leccino olives), infused truffle, chilli and saffron oils, tapenades and honey. With enough of his home-made<br />
focaccia for dipping and a shot of his limoncello if you’re brave enough. marbrin.co.za
SO, WHAT<br />
WILL YOU BE<br />
DRINKING<br />
THIS MONTH?<br />
EDITED BY MICHELLE COBURN<br />
Raise<br />
the<br />
Bar<br />
PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION ABIGAIL DONNELLY<br />
FOR THE SAKE OF SAKE<br />
Smooth, easy-drinking sake will save you this winter. It’s lower in acidity than wine, making it a versatile<br />
drink to match with anything from sushi to ramen, and it loves dishes using acidic ingredients such as citrus<br />
(sometimes difficult for wine – see page 54). Styles can be sweet or dry, aromas range from fruity to earthy,<br />
and flavours can include rice, herbs and nuts. Sparkling versions are light and refreshing but, best of all, sake<br />
can be enjoyed chilled or warm, as in the ClemenGold hot toddy on page 58. (You might want to make extra:<br />
tradition dictates that once a sake glass is empty, the host is obliged to refill it without asking. No problem!)
RAISE THE BAR<br />
Vive la France!<br />
France has inspired so many top wines made in the Cape that, in honour of Bastille Day on 14 <strong>July</strong>,<br />
ALLAN MULLINS says merci for the blended styles made famous by two famous French regions<br />
52<br />
“Match the Ken Forrester<br />
SGM with daube Provençal<br />
– a rich stew of beef slowly<br />
braised with red wine,<br />
onions, herbs and garlic”<br />
THE RHÔNE VALLEY<br />
The rocky, stony soils and hot, dry climate<br />
of the Rhône Valley are echoed in certain<br />
regions of the Cape, especially the Swartland.<br />
There are diverse styles in the Rhône, where<br />
the main red grapes are Syrah, Grenache,<br />
Mourvèdre and Cinsaut, while the whites are<br />
Viognier and Roussanne.<br />
KLOOF STREET SWARTLAND<br />
ROUGE 2014, R99,95<br />
Chris and Andrea Mullineux launched<br />
Mullineux Family Wines in Riebeek<br />
Kasteel in 2007 and partnered with luxury<br />
accommodation entrepreneur Analjit<br />
Singh in 2013 to form the award-winning<br />
Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines. This Syrahled<br />
blend demonstrates their mastery<br />
of Rhône varieties and Swartland soils.<br />
Tasting notes: The wine gets its plush texture<br />
and seductive spice from 86% Syrah. Smaller<br />
additions of Grenache, Cinsaut, Carignan,<br />
Mourvèdre and Tinta Barocca contribute<br />
fruitiness, perfume, freshness, light<br />
earthiness and firm tannins respectively.<br />
Match with: Slow-cooked lamb knuckles in red<br />
wine, black pepper, rosemary and garlic.<br />
KEN FORRESTER SGM 2014, R79.95<br />
Ken Forrester is known as the king of Chenin<br />
Blanc but he is just as passionate about<br />
Rhône varieties. This SGM blend exhibits<br />
Old World style with New World fruit.<br />
Tasting notes: Shiraz gives spiciness, white<br />
pepper and nutmeg; Grenache adds red<br />
fruits; Mourvèdre gives mid-palate depth.<br />
Match with: Daube Provençal – a rich stew of<br />
beef slowly braised with red wine, onions,<br />
herbs and garlic.<br />
FAIRVIEW ROAMING GOAT<br />
2015, R69.95<br />
Fairview is known for its wine and goats,<br />
so feels entitled to take a cheeky dig at the<br />
French Rhône blend, Côtes du Rhône, by<br />
calling its Rhône varietal blend Goats<br />
Do Roam. Roaming Goat is an exclusive<br />
Woolies blend of Rhône varieties with<br />
extra 50-year-old Grenache to add spice,<br />
fruit and complexity.<br />
Tasting notes: Plums and red berries, cloves<br />
and cinnamon on the nose. A smooth<br />
palate with inviting fruit and ripe tannins.<br />
Match with: Spicy meat dishes such as<br />
Moroccan lamb, chicken tagine or bobotie.<br />
DMZ CONCERTO WHITE 2016, R69.95<br />
At Stellenbosch winery De Morgenzon,<br />
Wendy and Hilton Applebaum play baroque<br />
music to specific vines. It must work as<br />
the awards keep rolling in. The Concerto<br />
White has the Rhône varieties Roussanne,<br />
Grenache Blanc and Viognier leading the<br />
ensemble, with Chardonnay and Chenin<br />
Blanc playing back-up.<br />
Tasting notes: Opulence meets elegance<br />
with white peach, ripe pear and tropical<br />
fruit aromas on the nose, and honey,<br />
minerals and spice on the palate.<br />
Match with: Crayfish, prawns or scallops<br />
with a spicy Asian sauce.<br />
BORDEAUX<br />
Bordeaux is the largest fine-wine area in the<br />
world. Reds account for 90% of production<br />
and are made from blends of two or more of<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc,<br />
Malbec and Petit Verdot, while white blends<br />
are made from Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon.<br />
All these grapes are grown in the Cape where<br />
similar terroir conditions exist in certain regions.<br />
JORDAN COBBLERS HILL<br />
2012, R299.95<br />
Cobblers Hill is named in honour of the<br />
Jordan shoe company, started by Alfred<br />
Jordan who arrived from England in 1890.<br />
Third-generation shoemaker Ted Jordan<br />
bought a Stellenbosch wine farm in 1982,<br />
PORTRAIT ROBBERT KOENE STILL PHOTOGRAPHS JAN RAS ILLUSTRATIONS GETTY IMAGES
where his son and daugher-in-law, Gary<br />
and Kathy Jordan, released the first Jordan<br />
wines in 1993.<br />
Tasting notes: Cabernet Sauvignon (43%) is<br />
the backbone of the blend with its dense<br />
blackcurrant and black cherry flavours;<br />
Merlot (38%) lifts the red fruit characters<br />
and adds to the acidity; Cabernet Franc<br />
(12%) adds a spicy note; Petit Verdot (7%)<br />
emphasises the intensity of the fruit.<br />
Match with: Steak with Hollandaise sauce<br />
and roast potatoes.<br />
DELAIRE GRAFF REDSTONE<br />
2015, R129.95<br />
Delaire Graff, perched high in the<br />
Helshoogte mountains, is a luxury hotel<br />
catering to the world’s rich and famous.<br />
It also produces outstanding wine. Redstone<br />
is an exclusive five-way Bordeaux blend<br />
that gets its name from the red, nutrientrich<br />
Tukulu and Oakleaf soils of the<br />
Stellenbosch hillside.<br />
Tasting notes: The base of the wine is 69%<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon, which provides<br />
blackcurrant and cassis; Malbec ensures<br />
the palate is firm yet supple; Petit Verdot<br />
adds spice and perfume; Cabernet Franc<br />
is responsible for leafy notes, and the Merlot<br />
ensures freshness and acidity.<br />
Match with: Boeuf bourguignon with brown<br />
rice, roast potatoes and hearty vegetables.<br />
PORCUPINE RIDGE CABERNET<br />
SAUVIGNON MERLOT 2015, R59.95<br />
The Boekenhoutskloof wine team is<br />
responsible for the Porcupine Ridge range,<br />
and this Bordeaux-style blend is an exclusive<br />
collaboration with Woolies. The Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon and the Merlot come from<br />
Stellenbosch’s acclaimed red wine area,<br />
the Helderberg.<br />
Tasting notes: The 84% Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon provides dark wild berry<br />
and cherry notes, tempered by the<br />
Merlot’s lighter red fruit profile. The<br />
velvety palate has hints of hazelnut,<br />
chocolate and liquorice with perfectly<br />
integrated tannins.<br />
Match with: Panfried venison steak with<br />
blackberry sauce.<br />
NITIDA SAUVIGNON BLANC<br />
SEMILLON 2016, R79.95<br />
Nitida is a small farm in Durbanville and<br />
prides itself on its hands-on approach.<br />
The grapes for this blend come from<br />
Durbanville and Darling, both cool areas<br />
where slow ripening allows for good<br />
flavour development.<br />
Tasting notes: A fusion of two contrasting<br />
but complementary cultivars – the<br />
crispness of Sauvignon Blanc meets the<br />
creaminess of Semillon. Their stone-fruit<br />
flavours overlap and there is yellow<br />
plum, white peach, green apples and<br />
a hint of white pepper.<br />
Match with: Winemaker Daniel Keuler<br />
suggests East Coast sole and a beurre<br />
blanc sauce with a salad of freshly<br />
sprouted microgreens.<br />
Cape Wine Master<br />
Allan Mullins has<br />
selected wines for<br />
Woolies for more<br />
than two decades.<br />
Find him on Twitter<br />
@AllanMullinsSA.<br />
Say cheese<br />
(and wine)!<br />
Grasping the fundamentals of good flavour<br />
combos and picking the best wine<br />
to accompany your favourite French<br />
cheese is really quite easy<br />
FRESH AND SOFT CHEESES<br />
Flavours range from tangy to mild,<br />
matching well with crisp, fruity, light-bodied<br />
wines with citrusy or tropical flavours. Avoid<br />
wines that are high in tannins. The cheese:<br />
Brie, Camembert, chèvre (goat’s cheese),<br />
Brillat-Savarin, crottin. The wine: Riesling,<br />
Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Champagne.<br />
SEMI-HARD AND<br />
MEDIUM-AGED CHEESE<br />
Firm in texture and strong in flavour,<br />
these cheeses need medium-bodied,<br />
well-balanced wines. Try sparkling<br />
whites, apéritif whites and fruity reds.<br />
The cheese: Cantal, Comté and French<br />
Emmenthal. The wine: Chardonnay, white<br />
Burgundy, white Bordeaux, Champagne,<br />
red Burgundy, Pinot Noir.<br />
53<br />
ASIAN<br />
PERSUASION<br />
Spice and heat can be<br />
difficult to match with wine.<br />
Try these tips the next time<br />
you’re choosing a bottle<br />
NO Oaky Chardonnays<br />
will dull spicy flavours<br />
and red wines with<br />
tannins will taste bitter.<br />
YES Aromatic wines have<br />
fruity flavours that marry<br />
well with aromatic dishes.<br />
Light sweetness tames<br />
excessive heat and snappy<br />
acidity lifts Asian flavours.<br />
Choose Sauvignon Blanc,<br />
low-tannin juicy reds,<br />
an off-dry sparkling<br />
wine, Riesling or<br />
Gewürztraminer:<br />
Paul Cluver Ferricrete Riesling<br />
2016 has bright acidity<br />
and hints of lemongrass.<br />
Perfect for Thai curries.<br />
The Gewürztraminer 2016<br />
has lively freshness and<br />
a delicate spicy flavour<br />
great for . lightly spiced<br />
Indian curries such as<br />
butter chicken.<br />
BLUE CHEESE<br />
Bold, full-flavoured cheeses with prominent<br />
salty and savoury flavours like these need<br />
bold, slightly sweet wines to match.<br />
The cheese: Roquefort and Cambozola.<br />
The wine: White Burgundy or Bordeaux,<br />
Viognier, white Rhône blends,<br />
Zinfandel, red Port.<br />
HARD, AGED CHEESE<br />
Nutty, salty flavours are complemented by<br />
full-bodied whites, tannic reds and sweet<br />
Ports. The cheese: Aged Cantal, tomme de<br />
Savoie, French raclette. The wine: Aged<br />
white Burgundy or Bordeaux, Riesling,<br />
Champagne, red Burgundy, red Port.
RAISE THE BAR<br />
What to drink with … citrus<br />
Zesty flavours in sweet and savoury dishes can be tricky to pair with wine but not when Allan<br />
Mullins is on the job – he’s even thrown in a Shiraz surprise<br />
DANIE DE WET LIMESTONE HILL CHARDONNAY<br />
UNWOODED <strong>2017</strong>, R79.95<br />
… fish tacos with one-minute lime mayo and pink grapefruit<br />
on page 76<br />
Both the tacos and wine contribute grapefruit, lime and citrus. The<br />
result is a palate-pleasing citrus explosion – and a vitamin C boost,<br />
making this a good-for-you combo. The wine has been aged on its<br />
lees (the yeast cells after fermentation), which gives it an appealing<br />
richness, balancing out the lavish citrus without losing any of its<br />
impact. The outcome is racy, refreshing, zesty and zippy.<br />
If you like this, also try: Boschendal 1685 Chardonnay 2016.<br />
54<br />
NEIL ELLIS BUSH VINE SHIRAZ GROENEKLOOF<br />
2014, R99.95<br />
… with citrus-braised shortrib with green chilli, lime<br />
and green tomato salsa on page 74<br />
This luscious Shiraz from a selected vineyard in the Darling<br />
wine area is a perfect partner for the braised shortrib with<br />
its flavour-rich, invigorating sauce. Clove and cinnamon,<br />
black fruit, pepper and the sultry savouriness of the Shiraz<br />
are flavours that boost the lipsmacking flavours of the<br />
salsa. The wine’s richly textured body matches the juicy<br />
succulence of the braised shortrib.<br />
If you like this, also try: Saronsberg Provenance Shiraz 2015.<br />
SPRINGFIELD ESTATE MISS LUCY 2016, R109.95<br />
… with orange-and-fennel mussels on page 79<br />
The Bruwer family created Springfield Miss Lucy as “an ode to<br />
the bounty of the sea”, so it’s a natural partner for this orangeand-fennel<br />
mussel indulgence. The citrus/aniseed elements<br />
of the dish complement the wine perfectly, with the Semillon<br />
(32%) bringing a beautiful waxy lemon rind roundness<br />
and fresh citrus notes, the spiciness of the Pinot Gris (30%)<br />
picking up with the fennel, and the partially barrel-fermented<br />
Sauvignon Blanc (38%) giving the weight and body to stand<br />
up to the fuller flavours.<br />
If you like this, also try: Groot Constantia Sauvignon Blanc<br />
Semillon 2016.<br />
FOOD PHOTOGRAPHS TOBY MURPHY WINE PHOTOGRAPHS JAN RAS
A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N<br />
PHOTOGRAPH SADIQAH ASSUR-ISMAIL<br />
PRODUCTION JACQUELINE BURGESS<br />
PLAIN TRUTH<br />
Fact: a swirl of Woolies' Ayrshire double-cream plain yoghurt through soups, stews, curries<br />
or sauces gives them decadently delicious hero status. Named the top plain double-cream<br />
yoghurt at the recent SA Dairy championships, it's thick and velvety, enriched with millions of<br />
good-for-your-gut bifidobacterium cultures and contains no preservatives. What's not to love?<br />
woolworths.co.za<br />
Serving suggestion<br />
ROAST LAMB WITH<br />
GARLIC-YOGHURT SAUCE<br />
Gently heat 2 cups<br />
Ayrshire double-cream<br />
plain yoghurt with<br />
2 crushed garlic cloves.<br />
Cook <strong>Woolworths</strong> Easy<br />
to Cook free-range leg<br />
of lamb according to<br />
package instructions.<br />
Swirl 1 x 180 g tub<br />
hummus through the<br />
sauce and top with sliced<br />
lamb, roast beetroot,<br />
toasted pine nuts, and the<br />
meat juices. Garnish with<br />
chopped coriander.
RAISE THE BAR<br />
The mavericks<br />
Meet two wine-making entrepreneurs: the sommelier who makes his own wine and<br />
a banker who gave it all up for life in the vineyards<br />
58<br />
MPHUMELELI NDLANGISA<br />
Maker of Magna Carta natural wines<br />
Mphumi left the world of finance to start his<br />
own wine label after “spending a lot of time<br />
hanging out in wine bars” and developing<br />
a love for wines by makers who do it differently<br />
I LEFT MY CAREER IN<br />
INVESTMENTS because I wanted<br />
to create a legacy that reflected a<br />
philosophy I believe in: taking a chance<br />
by venturing into the unknown to<br />
achieve something greater.<br />
MANY WINE DRINKERS ARE<br />
RISK AVERSE when it comes to trying<br />
something new. I think education is key.<br />
I host monthly tasting sessions organised<br />
through the Facebook group “Magna<br />
Carta Wine Day” where I single out a single<br />
varietal and explore its different styles<br />
and origins.<br />
MY FAVOURITE GRAPE VARIETY<br />
TO WORK WITH is Muscat d’Alexandrie.<br />
It’s a challenging grape prone to mildew<br />
and botrytis in the vineyard. I love its effusive<br />
floral notes on the nose. This year I have<br />
produced two Muscat skin-contact wines<br />
from single vineyards in Sir Lowry’s Pass<br />
and Franschhoek.<br />
PRICE DOES NOT EQUAL QUALITY.<br />
A surefire way to unearthing some gems<br />
for a bargain is to start by knowing which<br />
varietals perform better for which region.<br />
For a start, you’re safe with a Syrah or<br />
Chenin Blanc from the Swartland, Pinot<br />
Noir or Chardonnay from the Overberg<br />
and Cabernet Franc or Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
from Stellenbosch.<br />
DEVELOP YOUR PALATE by tasting<br />
and smelling everything. I often taste raw<br />
ingredients and smell random plants.<br />
Don’t limit your senses. For example,<br />
I’ve seen wine tasting notes that included<br />
“smells like freshly cut hosepipe” –<br />
presumably by an ardent gardener!<br />
magnacartawines.com<br />
PORTRAITS JAN RAS AND ANITA NEL INTERVIEWS MICHELLE COBURN<br />
JOSEPH DHAFANA<br />
La Colombe sommelier and maker<br />
of Mosi wines<br />
Joseph is a leading wine steward who only<br />
drank his first glass of wine seven years ago –<br />
a glass of MCC on his birthday in the town of<br />
Riebeek-Kasteel, where he’d worked his way<br />
from gardener to barman at a local restaurant<br />
MY LABEL IS NAMED FOR Mosi-oatunya,<br />
meaning “the smoke that thunders”<br />
(better known as Victoria Falls), as I am from<br />
Zimbabwe. Mosi was born in 2014 with the<br />
guidance of Roger Clayton of Clayton Wines.<br />
I started with small batches of Syrah and<br />
Chenin and now a Merlot.<br />
WINE LISTS AT FINE-DINING<br />
RESTAURANTS CAN BE DAUNTING.<br />
My advice is: tell the somm what you like<br />
to drink and ask for recommendations.<br />
It’s so much better than ordering something<br />
you might not enjoy.<br />
NEWCOMERS TO WINE should<br />
start with lighter styles, then move on<br />
to medium- and full-bodied wines.<br />
DEVELOP YOUR PALATE by tasting<br />
as many wines as possible and memorising<br />
what you taste. Do lots of blind tastings and<br />
be okay with making mistakes.<br />
MY FAVOURITE GRAPE VARIETY<br />
IS CHENIN BLANC. It’s versatile and<br />
can be used for sparkling wine, still wine,<br />
brandy, sherry and dessert wine.<br />
THE MOST MEMORABLE PAIRING<br />
I’VE EVER HAD was at Creation in the<br />
Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. Springbok paired<br />
with The Art of Pinot Noir 2015. It was<br />
matchless!<br />
MY FAVOURITE WINE-PRODUCING<br />
COUNTRY IS SPAIN for its seductive,<br />
juicy, full-bodied reds from Rioja and Ribera<br />
del Duero. And nothing beats a bottle<br />
of Cava in Barcelona!<br />
Follow @wine_poet on Instagram
PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION FOODLOOSE PRODUCTIONS<br />
FOOD ASSISTANT CLAIRE GOODERSON<br />
A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N<br />
THE GOLDEN TOUCH<br />
Whether you prefer yours subtle or intense, peppery or grassy, local or imported Ñ Woolies<br />
will hook you up with your favourite olive oil. For that big monthly shop, stock up on your<br />
favourite 1-litre bottle of South African extra virgin olive oil or Cook's Essential olive oil, and<br />
for a taste of the exotic, choose between imported Mediterranean and Italian olive oils.<br />
woolworths.co.za<br />
Serving suggestion<br />
CRISPY SPRING ONIONS<br />
AND INFUSED OLIVE OIL<br />
Finely slice 2 bunches spring<br />
onions. Gently heat 1 cup<br />
Woolies Cook’s Essential<br />
olive oil and gently fry the<br />
onions until they smell toasty.<br />
Remove the spring onions<br />
using a slotted spoon and<br />
drain on kitchen paper.<br />
Use the reserved oil to liven<br />
up any Asian broth, noodle<br />
dish or dipping sauce and<br />
finish Asian dishes with<br />
the crispy onion bits.
RAISE THE BAR<br />
Sake to me, baby<br />
Rice: good for eating, great for drinking. Just ask Japan, Korea (north and south) and China,<br />
who each have their own answers to transforming the humble grain into satisfying sips<br />
CLEMENGOLD SAKE TODDY<br />
Combine 2 shots sake and 1 shot ClemenGold juice in a Consol<br />
jar and screw on the lid. Submerge the bottle in a heatproof<br />
jug or bowl of just boiled water until warmed through, about<br />
3 minutes. Meanwhile, sprinkle a bit of sugar over two slices<br />
of ClemenGold and caramelise with a blowtorch or under the<br />
grill until slightly charred. Divide the hot sake-and-juice toddy<br />
between two heatproof tumblers and garnish each with<br />
a caramelised ClemenGold slice. Serves 2.<br />
JAPAN: SAKE<br />
Made with polished saka mai (sake rice), water, yeast<br />
and koji mould, sake is created through a two-stage<br />
fermentation process, making its production closer<br />
to that of beer than wine. There are two main styles<br />
of sake: one made only with rice, and one fortified<br />
with brewer’s alcohol. Plum sake, made by infusing<br />
plums with sake, is also popular. Generally, premium<br />
sakes should be served chilled, while less expensive<br />
versions benefit from being heated. If it’s the good<br />
stuff, it should be smooth with subtle sweet, bitter,<br />
acidic and even umami notes.<br />
KOREA: SOJU<br />
With an alcohol percentage of around 20%, this spirit<br />
doesn’t pack quite the wallop its moniker “Korean<br />
vodka” would imply, but because it’s customary<br />
to finish a whole bottle (usually around 360 ml) in<br />
one sitting, its potency is said to sneak up on you.<br />
Traditionally distilled from rice (although wheat and<br />
barley versions are also common), soju is slightly<br />
sweet and viscous. It’s commonly served straight up<br />
in a shot glass, but can also be mixed with fruit juice<br />
(a popular drink at Korean barbeques) or beer.<br />
CHINA: SHAOXING JIU<br />
Shaoxing jiu hails from the Zhejiang province of<br />
China and is the oldest type of yellow rice wine in<br />
the country (we’re talking between 770 BC and<br />
476 BC ). Made by fermenting rice with water before<br />
being pressed, filtered and aged, it’s available in<br />
dry, semi-dry and sweet varieties, and amber in<br />
colour. It’s traditionally served at 38°C (warm it up<br />
by putting the bottle in a jug of hot water), so it’s<br />
perfect for getting nice and toasty. It also doubles<br />
as a pantry staple, adding flavour to stirfries.<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS JAN RAS PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY FOOD ASSISTANT CAMILLA REINHOLD TEXT ANNETTE KLINGER<br />
EXTRA SOURCES CHILLEDMAGAZINE.COM; SLATE.COM; 1STFOREVERYTHING.COM; GOGHISM.COM; HAPPIEBB.COM; STONYBROOK.EDU; CITS.NET; SHANGHAIDAILY.COM; LEAF.TV; BONAPPETIT.COM
A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N<br />
EASTERN FEASTIN’<br />
PHOTOGRAPH MICHAEL LE GRANGE PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY FOOD ASSISTANT ANDREA MASKEW<br />
Authentic Asian flavours don't only live at the takeaway<br />
down the road. <strong>Woolworths</strong> stocks all the pantry essentials<br />
you need to whip up everything from tempura veg to<br />
sweet-and-sour chicken, quick-sticks. It's all there: noodles,<br />
panko crumbs and tempura flour; sauce essentials<br />
including sweet-and-sour, Chinese BBQ, Indonesian soya<br />
and tamarind paste. All you need are chopsticks!<br />
woolworths.co.za
COMPETITION<br />
WIN<br />
Two lucky TASTE readers will win a Smeg 50s retro-style espresso coffee machine,<br />
plus a hamper of <strong>Woolworths</strong> ground coffee, each worth R6 500. Bellissima!<br />
Bring the magic of an authentic<br />
Italian café into your own kitchen<br />
with Smeg’s traditional espresso<br />
machine. Don’t be fooled by its<br />
good looks, under that beautifully<br />
curvaceous exterior beats the<br />
heart of an Italian stallion. Smeg’s<br />
Thermoblock heating technology<br />
ensures faster prep and precise<br />
water temperature control for<br />
producing coffee, steam or hot<br />
water, and the 15-bar operating<br />
pressure means you’ll always get<br />
the best results. The drip tray even<br />
has a clever indicator to tell<br />
you when it’s full.<br />
smeg.co.za<br />
THE PRIZE:<br />
Two lucky readers will win a Smeg<br />
espresso coffee machine in the<br />
colour of their choice – cream,<br />
black, fiery red or pastel blue – plus<br />
a hamper of <strong>Woolworths</strong> ground<br />
coffee, worth R6 500.<br />
TO ENTER:<br />
Turn to page 126 for SMS entry<br />
instructions, or visit taste.co.za.<br />
QUESTION:<br />
What is the name of the coffee<br />
machine’s heating system?<br />
KEYWORD: Smeg.
BROOKLYN<br />
MALL OF AFRICA<br />
Kream is a trendy upmarket restaurant which strives to provide only the best food and service,<br />
bringing this together to create an unforgettable dining experience. Founded in 2007 by Tufan<br />
Yerebakan, Kream has established and developed itself into a trendy, one-of-a-kind experience<br />
for many. Serving delicious modern cuisine in an artistic environment, Kream combines the two<br />
to provide a great sensory experience. The restaurant’s setting provides private dining, closed<br />
booths and terrace seating options utilised by many clients for their business and leisure needs.<br />
Kream offers a wide array of wines from all over the world – a hand-picked selection of only the<br />
best wines from only the best estates.<br />
Coined the ‘Wolfpack’, the Kream team is committed to providing guests with the ultimate<br />
eating experience through exceptional service and value for money. We invite you to come and<br />
experience Kream Kulture.<br />
Brooklyn, Brooklyn Bridge, 570 Fehrsen Street, Brooklyn | +27 12 346 4642 /4<br />
Mall of Africa, Waterfall City, Magwa Cres, Midrand, Johannesburg, 1686 | +27 10 591 0023
You don’t think twice about starting your day<br />
with your favourite brew or grabbing a cup to go.<br />
And what would tiramisu be without espresso?<br />
But there are even more delicious ways to get the<br />
most from your favourite roast – like a creamy<br />
sauce for fillet, or a dreamy risotto for dessert<br />
COFFEE RISOTTO<br />
R19 PER SERVING
COFFEE CULTURE<br />
ESPRESS<br />
YOURSELF<br />
63<br />
COFFEE ÎLES<br />
FLOTTANTES<br />
R6 PER SERVING<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS TOBY MURPHY AND JAN RAS RECIPES AND PRODUCTION ABIGAIL DONNELLY<br />
TEXT ANNETTE KLINGER AND MICHELLE COBURN FOOD ASSISTANT JACQUELINE BURGESS
COFFEE CULTURE<br />
64<br />
COFFEE RISOTTO<br />
“Sure, it’s dessert, but you’re going to want to eat it<br />
for breakfast. Served hot or cold, it’s spectacular.”<br />
Serves 4<br />
EASY<br />
GREAT VALUE<br />
Preparation: 10 minutes<br />
Cooking: 35 minutes<br />
instant coffee granules 1½ T<br />
vanilla pod 1, split<br />
risotto rice 100 g<br />
milk 2 cups<br />
brown sugar 50 g<br />
butter 2 T<br />
cream 1 cup, plus extra for serving<br />
<strong>Woolworths</strong> espresso, for serving<br />
white chocolate 25 g, finely grated, for serving<br />
1 Place the instant coffee in a nonstick pan with<br />
1 cup water and the vanilla pod. Bring to the boil.<br />
2 Add the rice, turn off the heat and soak for<br />
5 minutes. 3 Return the rice to a low heat,<br />
add the milk and cook very gently, stirring<br />
occasionally, until the rice is tender. 4 Add the<br />
sugar, butter and cream and cook over a low<br />
heat, stirring for a further 5 minutes. Remove the<br />
vanilla pod. 5 Serve with extra cream, a shot<br />
of espresso and finely grated white chocolate.<br />
WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE<br />
WINE: <strong>Woolworths</strong> Porcupine Ridge Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon-Merlot 2016<br />
COFFEE ÎLES FLOTTANTES<br />
“The traditional French floating island consists<br />
of meringue floating on crème anglaise. This<br />
turns a double cappuccino into a treat to die for.”<br />
Serves 4<br />
EASY<br />
GREAT VALUE<br />
Preparation: 20 minutes<br />
Cooking: 1½ hours<br />
GET PERCOLATING<br />
We’ve all got our favourite way to make the perfect brew.<br />
These are the most popular<br />
The coffee plunger<br />
(French press)<br />
One of the simplest<br />
ways to make a great<br />
cup of joe: add a<br />
heaped tablespoon<br />
of ground coffee per<br />
200 ml water to the<br />
beaker, pour over hot<br />
(not quite boiling)<br />
water and stir. Insert<br />
the plunger, stopping<br />
just above the coffee<br />
level, and brew for<br />
3–4 minutes before<br />
plunging and serving<br />
immediately.<br />
The coffee<br />
(and tea) maker<br />
Equal rights for coffee<br />
and tea lovers! Add<br />
ground coffee or tea<br />
leaves to the filter,<br />
pour over hot (not<br />
boiling) water and<br />
3–4 minutes later<br />
you’ll have a steaming<br />
cuppa in hand.<br />
(Woolies stocks<br />
this stainless-steel,<br />
bamboo and<br />
borosilicate glass<br />
coffee and tea<br />
maker, R599).<br />
The coffee dripper<br />
The hourglass-shaped<br />
Chemex dripper with<br />
its distinctive wooden<br />
collar brews coffee by<br />
means of a paper filter<br />
inserted into the neck<br />
of the flask. Add<br />
ground coffee and<br />
“bloom” it by<br />
moistening with<br />
a little hot water. Then<br />
pour over the desired<br />
quantity of water (for<br />
your number of cups)<br />
and let it percolate<br />
into the flask.<br />
“THE ROASTED FLAVOURS,<br />
BITTERNESS AND ACIDITY<br />
OF COFFEE MAKE IT A<br />
PERFECT MATCH FOR SWEET,<br />
BOLD, EARTHY AND NUTTY<br />
INGREDIENTS” – ABIGAIL DONNELLY<br />
free-range egg whites 4<br />
caster sugar 220 g<br />
double cappuccinos, for serving<br />
1 Preheat the oven to 120°C and line a baking<br />
tray with a silicone mat or baking paper. 2 Beat<br />
the egg whites until stiff peaks form. Gradually<br />
add the sugar and continue beating until stiff<br />
and glossy. Spoon the mixture into a piping<br />
bag and pipe onto the baking tray. 3 Bake for<br />
1½ hours, or until slightly golden and a little<br />
gooey in the middle. Allow to cool and serve<br />
with a double cappuccino.<br />
FAT-CONSCIOUS, WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE<br />
The Moka pot<br />
A one-cup wonder<br />
– this one invented<br />
in 1933 – has had<br />
a resurgence in<br />
popularity thanks<br />
to the ease with<br />
which it brews<br />
a perfect espresso<br />
under pressure<br />
on the stovetop.<br />
The Aeropress<br />
Compact and easy<br />
to transport, this is<br />
the perfect one-cup<br />
coffee maker and,<br />
thanks to its immersion<br />
brewing process and<br />
use of gentle air<br />
pressure, can brew<br />
a range of styles in<br />
around two minutes.<br />
The espresso<br />
coffee machine<br />
Make authentic<br />
espresso, latte<br />
macchiato and<br />
cappuccino at home<br />
(the system makes<br />
the perfect mix of<br />
steam, air and milk<br />
for an impeccable<br />
foam). smeg.co.za
COFFEE CULTURE<br />
CINNAMON<br />
DOUGHNUTS WITH<br />
COFFEE ROYAL ICING<br />
“I’d fly across the world for a great<br />
doughnut (see page 105 for the<br />
best in New York) – or I’ll make<br />
them at home just like this!”<br />
Serves 6<br />
EASY<br />
GREAT VALUE<br />
Preparation: 10 minutes<br />
<strong>Woolworths</strong> royal icing mix<br />
1 x 190 g box<br />
<strong>Woolworths</strong> fresh cinnamon<br />
doughnuts 6<br />
espresso 1 shot<br />
double espresso, for serving<br />
1 Make the royal icing according<br />
to package instructions using<br />
the espresso shot instead of water.<br />
2 Generously spread the coffee<br />
icing over the doughnuts and<br />
serve with a double espresso.<br />
65<br />
CINNAMON DOUGHNUTS<br />
WITH COFFEE ROYAL ICING<br />
R9 PER SERVING
COFFEE CULTURE<br />
SMOKY MAPLE-<br />
ESPRESSO BAKED<br />
BEANS<br />
“All winter’s comforting flavours –<br />
smoky, spicy and rich espresso – in<br />
the simplest and most filling of dishes.”<br />
Serves 4<br />
EASY<br />
GREAT VALUE<br />
Preparation: 5 minutes<br />
Cooking: 25 minutes<br />
oil, for frying<br />
pork rashers 400 g, sliced into thirds<br />
leeks 4, washed and roughly chopped<br />
garlic 4 cloves, finely grated<br />
smoked paprika 1 t<br />
chilli flakes 1 t<br />
<strong>Woolworths</strong> Lazy Kettle hickory liquid<br />
smoke 1 T<br />
espresso 2 shots<br />
maple syrup 1 T<br />
tomato paste 2 T<br />
Italian whole peeled tomatoes<br />
1 x 400 g can<br />
butter beans 2 x 400 g cans, drained<br />
salt, to taste<br />
ciabatta, sliced and toasted, for serving<br />
1 Heat a little oil in a saucepan over<br />
a medium to high heat. Fry the pork<br />
rashers until golden and the fat has<br />
rendered. Remove from the pan.<br />
2 Add the leeks to the same pan<br />
and fry until golden. Add the garlic,<br />
paprika and chilli flakes and cook for<br />
a few seconds. Add the remaining<br />
ingredients, along with the pork<br />
rashers, and simmer for 10–15 minutes.<br />
3 Season with salt and serve with<br />
slices of toasted ciabatta.<br />
DAIRY-FREE<br />
WINE: Fairview Pinotage 2016<br />
66<br />
SMOKY<br />
MAPLE-ESPRESSO<br />
BAKED BEANS<br />
R39 PER SERVING
COFFEE CULTURE<br />
GLOBAL COFFEE<br />
CULTURE<br />
From the simple Italian<br />
espresso to traditional Turkish<br />
coffee ceremonies, here’s<br />
how people around the<br />
world enjoy their java<br />
ETHIOPIA: Buna<br />
In the birthplace of<br />
coffee, traditional buna<br />
ceremonies last for several<br />
hours and involve roasting<br />
and grinding the beans, then<br />
brewing, straining and serving<br />
the coffee – sometimes with<br />
sugar, butter or salt.<br />
IT’S A SIPHON-OFF<br />
Coffee with a side of physics sound good? You need a siphon –<br />
a.k.a. a vacuum coffee-maker – stat. While it doesn’t offer the pack-up-and-go<br />
convenience of an Aeropress (see page 64), it does make for a theatrical coffeemaking<br />
ritual, and a well-balanced brew with body<br />
1<br />
2<br />
3<br />
FINLAND:<br />
Kaffeeost<br />
A cheese called juustoleipä<br />
is cut into chunks and placed<br />
at the bottom of the cup,<br />
then coffee is poured on top.<br />
After you drink the coffee,<br />
eat the cheese. Mmm.<br />
FRANCE:<br />
Café au lait<br />
There’s nothing like starting<br />
your day as the French do:<br />
dunking a croissant in a café<br />
au lait – coffee with hot milk.<br />
4<br />
5<br />
6<br />
67<br />
ITALY: Espresso<br />
The average barista in<br />
New York takes three minutes<br />
to serve an espresso. By then,<br />
an Italian would have left in<br />
a huff. From Milano to Roma,<br />
espresso is the local version<br />
of coffee to go – one shot<br />
consumed standing at the bar<br />
around 30 seconds after<br />
you’ve placed your order.<br />
SILWOOD STUDENT ASSISTANT HELLA BOROCHOWITZ<br />
SHOT ON LOCATION AT HARD PRESSED CAFÉ, 1 BREE STREET, CAPE TOWN<br />
MEXICO:<br />
Café de olla<br />
Spiced café de olla is brewed<br />
with cinnamon sticks in<br />
handmade clay pots, which<br />
Mexicans say enhances the<br />
flavour of the coffee.<br />
TURKEY:<br />
Türk kahvesi<br />
UNESCO declared Turkish<br />
coffee an Intangible Cultural<br />
Heritage drink for the role it<br />
plays in traditional culture –<br />
roasted and finely ground<br />
coffee beans are simmered<br />
in a pot and served in a cup<br />
with sugar or a piece of<br />
Turkish delight on the side<br />
to offset the bitterness.<br />
STEP 1: Pour hot water into the bottom<br />
glass chamber or bulb. Sink the discshaped<br />
filter and its attached chain by<br />
lowering it through the opening of the<br />
top chamber or hopper, securing the<br />
chain to the bottom of the funnel<br />
with a clip.<br />
STEP 2: Insert the top chamber into<br />
the bottom chamber, ensuring that<br />
the bulb is dry (moisture can cause<br />
cracking). Light the burner below<br />
it and turn the flame up high.<br />
STEP 3: While you’re waiting for the<br />
water to boil, measure out your ground<br />
coffee. When the water approaches<br />
boiling point, water vapour forces<br />
it into the top chamber.<br />
STEP 4: Turn down the flame of the<br />
burner. While there’s still a bit of water<br />
in the bottom chamber, add the coffee<br />
grounds to the top chamber.<br />
STEP 5: Stir the coffee grounds into the<br />
water until they’re completely saturated,<br />
then brew for 45 seconds to 1 minute.<br />
Extinguish the flame of the burner.<br />
STEP 6: Gravity pulls the coffee and<br />
water mixture through the filter,<br />
creating a vacuum, and the bulb<br />
fills with filtered coffee.
COFFEE CULTURE<br />
FLAT WHITE VS CAPPUCCINO:<br />
WHAT’S THE DIFFS?<br />
Some aficionados insist a flat white should always be made with two shots of espresso. Others say the only<br />
difference is that it’s made with less foam than a cappuccino. We asked the pros for their verdict<br />
68<br />
THE DEFINITION:<br />
“Traditionally, a cappuccino<br />
is made with a third espresso,<br />
a third steamed milk and<br />
a third froth, but nothing<br />
is strictly a cappuccino or flat<br />
white anymore,” says Seb<br />
Schneider from Motherland<br />
Coffee in Joburg. Lee Venter,<br />
barista trainer at Truth Barista<br />
Academy, adds, “In terms<br />
of espresso to milk, the<br />
ratio is the same. It’s the<br />
temperature of the milk<br />
and the way it’s textured<br />
that determines whether<br />
it’s a cap or a flat white.”<br />
THE ESPRESSO: “A flat white<br />
is made with a double<br />
ristretto, a more concentrated<br />
type of shot than a regular<br />
espresso,” says Matt Carter<br />
from Tribeca Coffee<br />
Company, exclusive coffee<br />
supplier to <strong>Woolworths</strong>.<br />
“A cappuccino is made with<br />
only one shot of espresso.”<br />
THE MILK:<br />
“The milk in a cappuccino<br />
has more texture because<br />
more air is incorporated<br />
during the frothing process,”<br />
says Seb. “In a flat white, the<br />
milk has a finer, silkier texture.”<br />
Rosetta Roastery barista<br />
Ollie Teddy weighs in,<br />
“To create microtextured<br />
foam (with very fine bubbles)<br />
in a flat white, you steam<br />
the milk less than you do<br />
for a cappuccino.”<br />
THE FOAM:<br />
"A cappuccino will generally<br />
have about a centimetre of<br />
foam, as opposed to a flat<br />
white, which has about half<br />
a centimetre,” says Matt. “With<br />
cappuccinos, the milk tends<br />
to separate, making a thick<br />
bubbly foam on top and hot,<br />
slightly flat milk below,<br />
resulting in two different<br />
textures,” says Mike<br />
McDonald, head roaster<br />
at Origin in Cape Town.<br />
THE TEMPERATURE:<br />
According to Winston<br />
Thomas, head barista and<br />
trainer at Origin, the milk<br />
of a traditional cappuccino<br />
is steamed to around 75°C,<br />
while a flat white’s milk<br />
is steamed at 65°C. “By<br />
texuring the milk less,<br />
it also preserves its<br />
natural sweetness, which<br />
complements the flavour of<br />
the coffee better,” says Mike.<br />
THE CUP SIZE:<br />
The jury's still out. According<br />
to Matt, a flat white always<br />
has to be in a small cup,<br />
about 180 ml. “As soon as<br />
you get a big cup, it’s no<br />
longer a flat white. It's a large<br />
cappuccino.” Mike, again,<br />
says, “Cup size is a bit of<br />
grey area, it differs<br />
between countries.”<br />
COOL BEANS Tribeca Coffee Company’s Matt Carter says sourcing the best beans for the<br />
coffee you buy at Woolies stores and enjoy at WCafés involves so much more than just great taste<br />
“Socially responsibly sourced coffee not only<br />
ensures a better deal for the farmer, but also the<br />
environment and customer,” explains Matt, Tribeca’s<br />
sustainability manager, who helps to train and<br />
develop coffee farmers in Tanzania and Ethiopia by<br />
partnering with local trade organisations. And he’s<br />
not afraid to go the extra mile. “Recently, we funded<br />
and helped build a dairy for a female farmer in<br />
Ethiopia so that she could be organically certified,”<br />
he says. “We carried logs and rocks up a mountain<br />
and built it by hand with the community. We’re<br />
business partners. If we can help farmers produce<br />
a higher quality coffee, our business thrives, their<br />
business thrives, and everyone wins.” tribeca.co.za
ARTISANAL SAUSAGES<br />
BEEF FILLET WITH<br />
CAFÉ AU LAIT SAUCE<br />
“Do as the French do and start<br />
your day with a café au lait – then<br />
end it with this coffee-mushroom<br />
sauce (inspired by the famous sauce<br />
at The Pot Luck Club in Cape Town)<br />
over steak for dinner.”<br />
Serves 6<br />
EASY<br />
Preparation: 25 minutes,<br />
plus 3 hours’ soaking time<br />
Cooking: 35 minutes<br />
For the café au lait sauce:<br />
cream 2 cups<br />
coffee beans 50 g<br />
butter 1 T<br />
baby portabellini mushrooms<br />
150 g, halved<br />
<strong>Woolworths</strong> organic<br />
beef stock ½ cup<br />
sea salt and freshly ground<br />
black pepper, to taste<br />
olive oil 1 T<br />
whole beef fillet 1.9 kg<br />
butter 30 g<br />
fresh thyme 1 t<br />
1 Bring the cream and coffee beans<br />
to the boil, then remove from the<br />
heat. Allow to infuse for 3 hours,<br />
stirring occasionally. 2 Preheat the<br />
oven to 200°C and heat a large,<br />
nonstick pan over a high heat until<br />
smoking hot. 3 Sear the fillet in the<br />
olive oil on both sides until browned.<br />
Remove from the pan and place<br />
onto a baking tray. Place a few knobs<br />
of butter and the thyme on the meat<br />
and roast for 15–20 minutes, or until<br />
cooked to your liking. Allow to rest<br />
for 10 minutes before slicing.<br />
4 To finish the sauce, fry the<br />
mushrooms in a little butter over<br />
a very high heat until golden. Remove<br />
from the pan. 5 Strain the coffeeinfused<br />
cream into the pan and bring<br />
to the boil. Return the mushrooms to<br />
the pan, add the stock and reduce for<br />
a few minutes. Season to taste. Pour<br />
the sauce over the fillet and serve.<br />
CARB-CONSCIOUS, WHEAT- AND<br />
GLUTEN-FREE<br />
WINE: Vergelegen Shiraz 2015<br />
BEEF FILLET WITH<br />
CAFÉ AU LAIT SAUCE
MOCHA<br />
IN A CONE<br />
“This recipe is just as<br />
delicious with hot<br />
chocolate insead<br />
of coffee.”<br />
70<br />
Serves 6<br />
EASY<br />
GREAT VALUE<br />
Preparation: 25 minutes<br />
Cooking: 5 minutes<br />
dark chocolate<br />
200 g, melted<br />
large sugar cones 6<br />
<strong>Woolworths</strong> chocolateflavoured<br />
ground coffee<br />
6 shots<br />
1 Using a teaspoon, drizzle<br />
the melted chocolate into<br />
the cones. Rotate the cones<br />
as you work, allowing<br />
the chocolate to spread<br />
evenly. Place the cones into<br />
shallow cups and chill to<br />
set, about 10 minutes.<br />
2 Add another layer<br />
of chocolate in the same<br />
way as you did the first.<br />
Chill to set. Prepare<br />
the coffee. 3 Pour the<br />
coffee into the cones and<br />
serve immediately.<br />
MOCHA IN A CONE<br />
R20 PER SERVING
COFFEE CULTURE<br />
ROASTERY ROUND-UP<br />
All coffee beans have an optimal roast: the point where the aroma, body, acidity and flavour meet perfectly.<br />
These are just some of the talented folks getting it right in SA<br />
CAPE TOWN<br />
Bean There<br />
With roasteries in Cape Town and<br />
Johannesburg, Bean There roasts<br />
single-origin, unblended coffee<br />
beans from Africa. Their Rwanda<br />
Musasa has a light fruity aroma<br />
and creamy toffee flavours.<br />
beanthere.co.za<br />
Origin<br />
Started in Cape Town in 2006, Origin<br />
is widely seen as the pioneer of the<br />
new coffee culture in the Mother City.<br />
It offers quality roasts from around<br />
the world and can also be found in<br />
Joburg at Arts on Main in Maboneng.<br />
orginroasting.com<br />
SILWOOD STUDENT ASSISTANT HELLA BOROCHOWITZ; SHOT ON LOCATION AT HARD-PRESSED CAFÉ, 1 BREE STREET, CAPE TOWN<br />
Rosetta Roastery<br />
Rosetta micro-roasts single-origin<br />
coffees from Asia, South and Central<br />
America and Africa. The Ethiopian<br />
Biloya Yirgacheff boasts ripe citrus<br />
flavours and the Costa Rican La Luisa<br />
has sweet caramel notes and a<br />
creamy mouthfeel. rosettaroastery.com<br />
Tribe<br />
Visit the Woodstock café for a great<br />
cup of coffee and go home with<br />
perfect single-origin beans. The<br />
espresso blend boasts aromas and<br />
flavours from chocolate and truffle oil<br />
to candied red cherries. tribecoffee.co.za<br />
DURBAN<br />
Bean Green Coffee Roastery<br />
Bean Green prides itself on stocking<br />
only Ethiopian beans and its awardwinning<br />
Bluff Bru house blend<br />
consists of three premium beans:<br />
the medium-roasted Harrar and<br />
Yirgacheffe, with some dark-roasted<br />
Sidamo bean. beangreen.co.za<br />
Colombo Coffee and Factory Café<br />
Colombo sources green (unroasted)<br />
beans in Africa, Central and South<br />
America and Indonesia and roasts them<br />
to bring out their unique properties.<br />
Try the Gitwe from Burundi, which<br />
has orange marmalade and honey<br />
notes. colombo.co.za; factorycafe.co.za<br />
JOHANNESBURG<br />
Doubleshot Coffee and Tea<br />
The folks at this Braamfontein hotspot<br />
hand-select the best beans and roast<br />
them in small batches. The Brasil from<br />
Serra Negra estate has a hazelnut<br />
flavour with malty and milk chocolate<br />
notes. doubleshot.co.za<br />
Father Coffee<br />
The trendy Father Coffee espresso<br />
bars in Braamfontein and Rosebank<br />
(also home to the roastery) serve<br />
house-roasted coffee sourced from<br />
Central America and Africa. The<br />
signature Heirloom blend boasts<br />
flavours of raspberry, lime, nut and<br />
dark chocolate. fathercoffee.co.za<br />
Tribeca<br />
Woolies partner Tribeca deals directly<br />
with coffee farmers and co-ops in<br />
Africa, Central and South America<br />
and Indonesia. It invests in its<br />
suppliers and sources sustainably<br />
grown beans (see page 68) roasted<br />
at the Centurion headquarters. The<br />
speciality coffees are distributed<br />
throughout SA, including to the five<br />
Tribeca cafes in Joburg and Pretoria.<br />
tribeca.co.za<br />
TAKE A LOAD OFF AT WCAFÉ<br />
All WCafé baristas undergo training with some of the best in the business.<br />
Don’t miss these flagship stores in Joburg, Durban and Cape Town<br />
CROWTHORNE<br />
SHOPPING<br />
CENTRE<br />
Corner Main Road<br />
and Arthur Avenue,<br />
Kyalami; tel: 011<br />
840 8914<br />
BALLITO<br />
LIFESTYLE<br />
CENTRE<br />
445 Ballito Drive,<br />
Ballito; tel: 032 946<br />
8440<br />
WATERSTONE<br />
VILLAGE<br />
SHOPPING<br />
CENTRE<br />
Corner R44 and Main<br />
Road, Somerset West;<br />
tel: 021 851 8333.<br />
71
IN SEASON: CITRUS<br />
Main<br />
squeeze<br />
Nothing zests up your life in the chilly season<br />
quite like a glass of lip-puckeringly fresh citrus juice.<br />
But the season’s most versatile fruit<br />
is just as delicious squeezed into a creamy seafood sauce,<br />
grated into a comforting pudding,<br />
or roasted with the juiciest chicken<br />
you’ll eat<br />
this winter<br />
72<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS TOBY MURPHY<br />
RECIPES AND PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY<br />
FOOD ASSISTANT CAMILLA REINHOLD
BUTTERMILK RYE CRÊPES SUZETTE<br />
WITH CLEMENTINES<br />
R7 PER SERVING<br />
INGREDIENT SWAP<br />
Use amasi instead of milk or cream to add delicious tang to the batter<br />
– a perfect match with the clementines.
IN SEASON: CITRUS<br />
102<br />
BUTTERMILK RYE<br />
CRÊPES SUZETTE<br />
WITH CLEMENTINES<br />
“Crêpes Suzette is an oldie but a goodie. I find<br />
such comfort in the soft texture and stickysweet<br />
flavours, and flambéeing them is great<br />
fun when you’ve got guests for dinner.”<br />
Serves 6<br />
EASY<br />
GREAT VALUE<br />
Preparation: 25 minutes<br />
Cooking: 30 minutes<br />
large free-range eggs 3<br />
amasi or buttermilk ¾ cup<br />
milk ½ cup<br />
rye flour 50 g<br />
cake flour 35 g<br />
butter 65 g, melted<br />
canola oil, for frying<br />
For the clementine sauce:<br />
clementines 7 (4 juiced and 3 sliced)<br />
lemon 1, juiced<br />
sugar 50 g<br />
brandy 3 T<br />
butter 2 t<br />
CITRUS-BRAISED SHORTRIB WITH CHILLI, LIME AND<br />
GREEN TOMATO SALSA R34 PER SERVING<br />
COOK’S TIP<br />
Oranges and limes star in this moreish crowd-pleaser. Serve it<br />
with creamy diced avo for even bigger happiness.<br />
1 Blend the eggs, amasi or buttermilk and<br />
milk until smooth. Add the flour and blend<br />
again. Steadily pour in the melted butter<br />
while blending, then strain the mixture<br />
through a sieve. 2 Heat a swipe of canola<br />
oil in a nonstick pan, then pour in enough<br />
batter to just cover the base of the pan.<br />
As it starts to bubble and the edges begin<br />
to lift, carefully flip over and cook for another<br />
minute or so. Repeat with the remaining<br />
batter. 3 Meanwhile, heat the clementine<br />
and lemon juice, sugar and 1 T brandy in<br />
a saucepan, whisking until the sugar has<br />
dissolved. Add the sliced clementines and<br />
caramelise, then reduce the sauce until<br />
syrupy. Warm the remaining brandy, add to<br />
the sauce and flambé, then stir in the butter.<br />
Pour the sauce over the crêpes and serve<br />
immediately.<br />
WINE: <strong>Woolworths</strong> Jordan Unwooded<br />
Chardonnay 2016<br />
CITRUS-BRAISED<br />
SHORTRIB WITH CHILLI,<br />
LIME AND GREEN<br />
TOMATO SALSA<br />
“Eating lots and lots of spicy shortrib is how<br />
you will survive winter <strong>2017</strong>! The zesty lime and<br />
tomato salsa brings all the flavours to life.”<br />
Serves 8<br />
EASY<br />
GREAT VALUE<br />
Preparation: 30 minutes<br />
Cooking: 3½ hours<br />
beef shortrib 2 kg<br />
olive oil 2 T<br />
cumin seeds 1 T, crushed<br />
whole dried chillies 2–4<br />
cherry tomatoes 550 g, blended<br />
red wine vinegar 1 T<br />
oranges 2, zested and juiced<br />
garlic 2 cloves, crushed<br />
fresh thyme 1 t<br />
water ½ cup<br />
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper,<br />
to taste<br />
For the chilli, lime and tomato salsa, mix:<br />
coriander 30 g chopped<br />
garlic 2 cloves, crushed<br />
green chillies 2–3, sliced<br />
green or exotic tomatoes 200 g, sliced<br />
limes 4, zested and juiced<br />
olive oil 2 T<br />
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper,<br />
to taste
LEMON CURD<br />
LAVA PUDDINGS<br />
75<br />
EASY PEASY,<br />
LEMON SQUEEZY<br />
To make the chocolate-chip sauce<br />
on our cover, melt 1 x 200 g packet<br />
<strong>Woolworths</strong> chocolate chips,<br />
½ cup cream and 1 T butter in a pan,<br />
then whisk until smooth. To serve,<br />
pour the sauce over the puddings<br />
and garnish with grated chocolate<br />
and lime zest. See recipe overleaf.
IN SEASON: CITRUS<br />
76<br />
1 Preheat the oven to 160°C. Brown the<br />
shortrib in the olive oil in a cast-iron pan.<br />
Add the cumin seeds and chillies and toast<br />
until fragrant, then add the tomatoes, red<br />
wine vinegar, orange juice and zest, garlic,<br />
thyme and water. Season, cover and braise<br />
in the oven for 3 hours, or until tender,<br />
uncovering for the last 30 minutes.<br />
2 Serve drizzled with the salsa.<br />
CARB-CONSCIOUS, HEALTH-CONSCIOUS,<br />
DAIRY-FREE, WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE<br />
WINE: <strong>Woolworths</strong> Neil Ellis Shiraz 2014<br />
LEMON-CURD<br />
LAVA PUDDINGS<br />
“Lemon curd is so easy to make yourself and<br />
I love using it in this citrusy take on a chocolate<br />
fondant. Simply double the quantity of batter<br />
if you have more guests.<br />
Serves 6<br />
EASY<br />
Preparation: 45 mintues<br />
Cooking: 35 minutes<br />
For the lemon curd:<br />
large free-range eggs 4<br />
large free-range egg yolk 1<br />
caster sugar 350 g<br />
butter 225 g<br />
large lemons 4, juiced and zested<br />
good-quality cocoa 1 T, plus extra<br />
for dusting<br />
dark chocolate 200 g, chopped<br />
butter 200 g, chopped<br />
free-range eggs 4<br />
free-range egg yolks 4<br />
vanilla extract 1 T<br />
caster sugar 100 g<br />
flour 50 g<br />
1 To make the lemon curd, place a<br />
saucepan over a medium to low heat. Whisk<br />
together the eggs and egg yolk and place in<br />
the saucepan. Add the sugar, butter, lemon<br />
juice and zest. Whisk continually for 10–15<br />
minutes, or until smooth and thick. Remove<br />
from the heat. Allow to cool and thicken<br />
further. Spoon 1 T lemon curd into 6 cavities<br />
of an ice tray and freeze. 2 Preheat the oven<br />
to 200°C. Grease 6 metal dariole moulds<br />
or tea cups and dust with cocoa powder.<br />
Melt the chocolate and butter in a glass<br />
bowl over a pan of simmering water. Cool<br />
for 10 minutes. 3 Whisk the eggs and sugar<br />
until creamy. Stir in the vanilla extract and<br />
the chocolate mixture. Sift in the flour and<br />
cocoa and fold in. 4 Half-fill the moulds with<br />
batter, then add a cube of frozen lemon<br />
curd to each mould and add more batter<br />
until they are two-thirds full. Bake for 15–20<br />
minutes, or until the tops spring back when<br />
gently touched. Run a knife around the<br />
edges of the cakes and turn out onto plates.<br />
WINE: <strong>Woolworths</strong> Spier Natural<br />
Sweet White 2016<br />
STICKY CLEMENGOLD-<br />
GLAZED ROAST CHICKEN<br />
WITH PUMPKIN WEDGES<br />
Serves 4<br />
EASY<br />
GREAT VALUE<br />
Preparation: 30 minutes, plus<br />
10 minutes’ brining time<br />
Cooking: 1½ hours, plus overnight<br />
brining<br />
fine salt 160 g<br />
brown sugar 55 g<br />
red wine vinegar 2 T<br />
water 1 litre<br />
oranges 3, juiced (keep the skins)<br />
lemon 1, juiced (keep the skin)<br />
whole free-range chicken 1<br />
ClemenGolds 6<br />
garlic 1 head, halved<br />
pumpkin ½, cut into large wedges<br />
fresh sage 2 t<br />
olive oil 4 T<br />
butter 100 g<br />
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper,<br />
to taste<br />
mixed seeds 50 g, roasted<br />
1 To make the brine, mix the salt, sugar,<br />
vinegar and water and bring to a simmer.<br />
Add the orange and lemon juice and skins<br />
and cook until the salt and sugar have<br />
dissolved. 2 Place the chicken in a large<br />
container and pour over 2½ litres water<br />
and the brine. Cover and chill overnight.<br />
3 Preheat the oven to 220°C. Rinse the<br />
chicken under cold water and pat dry<br />
using kitchen paper. Stuff with 1 halved<br />
ClemenGold and the garlic. Tie the legs<br />
together with string. 4 Arrange on a large<br />
baking tray with 3 sliced ClemenGolds, the<br />
pumpkin and sage. Drizzle over the juice of<br />
2 ClemenGolds and the olive oil, dot with<br />
butter, season and roast for 1–1½ hours,<br />
basting regularly with juices until the<br />
chicken is cooked through. Serve warm<br />
with the roasted seeds.<br />
HEALTH-CONSCIOUS, WHEAT- AND<br />
GLUTEN-FREE<br />
WINE: <strong>Woolworths</strong> Hartenberg<br />
Chardonnay 2016<br />
FISH TACOS WITH<br />
ONE-MINUTE LIME<br />
MAYONNAISE AND<br />
PINK GRAPEFRUIT<br />
“After making this one-minute (no fake<br />
promises here!) mayo, you will never look back.”<br />
Serves 6<br />
EASY<br />
GREAT VALUE<br />
Preparation: 30 minutes<br />
Cooking: 10 minutes<br />
For the one-minute lime mayonnaise:<br />
sea salt a pinch<br />
lemon ½, juiced<br />
garlic 8 cloves, roasted<br />
large free-range egg 1<br />
canola oil 1 cup, plus 3 T<br />
limes 1–2, zested and juiced<br />
canola oil 1 cup<br />
wraps 6<br />
hake 2 x 450 g fillets, cut into small squares<br />
olive oil 2 T<br />
butter 1 T<br />
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper,<br />
to taste<br />
fresh coriander 2 t<br />
small cucumbers 6, sliced<br />
grapefruit 2, segmented<br />
fresh green chillies 4, sliced<br />
spring onions 2, sliced<br />
black salt, to taste<br />
1 To make the mayonnaise, place the salt,<br />
lemon juice, garlic, egg (take care not to<br />
break the yolk) and canola oil into the jug<br />
of a stick blender. Lower the stick blender<br />
into the jug, making sure the basket of the<br />
blender is directly over the yolk and start<br />
blending. Once ribbons start to appear, pull<br />
the blender up to emuslify the remaining<br />
mayonnaise. Fold in the lime zest and<br />
juice to taste. Set aside. 2 To make the fish<br />
tacos, heat the canola oil in a saucepan.<br />
Cut 2 circles out of each wrap, then fry on<br />
both sides until golden and crisp. Drain<br />
on kitchen paper. 3 Heat the olive oil and<br />
butter in a nonstick pan and gently fry the<br />
fish for 1–2 minutes on each side, or until<br />
tender but cooked through. Season to taste.<br />
4 To assemble the tacos, spoon 1 t lime<br />
mayo onto each taco, top with coriander,<br />
cucumber, fish, a segment or two of<br />
grapefruit, green chilli, spring onion<br />
and black salt.<br />
WINE: <strong>Woolworths</strong> Danie de Wet<br />
Limestone Hill Chardonnay <strong>2017</strong>
THE SECRET’S IN THE CITRUS BRINE!<br />
Brining a whole chicken adds flavour and tenderness to the meat. Add orange and lemon skins (see recipe opposite), plus an overnight session in the fridge<br />
(patience, people!), and you’ll have the juiciest, tastiest roast chicken you’ve ever eaten.<br />
STICKY CLEMENGOLD-GLAZED ROAST CHICKEN WITH PUMPKIN WEDGES<br />
R43 PER SERVING<br />
77<br />
“One of the things I love about winter is Woolies’ sun-ripened<br />
ClemenGolds. They’re zesty-sweet, virtually seedless and turn everyone’s<br />
favourite roast chicken into a next-level supper” – Hannah Lewry
78<br />
FISH TACOS WITH<br />
ONE-MINUTE LIME<br />
MAYONNAISE AND<br />
PINK GRAPEFRUIT<br />
R35 PER SERVING<br />
COOK’S TIP<br />
Lime intensifies the flavour<br />
of the delicious garlicky mayo<br />
and the grapefruit segments<br />
add vibrant colour to the<br />
finished tacos.
IN SEASON: CITRUS<br />
CARAMELISED ORANGE-<br />
AND-FENNEL MUSSELS<br />
“We all love mussels in a good cream sauce<br />
but this one will blow you away – it might<br />
take a little time but it’s worth the wait.”<br />
Serves 4<br />
EASY<br />
GREAT VALUE<br />
Preparation: 20 minutes<br />
Cooking: 1 hour<br />
fennel 3 large bulbs or 6 small, sliced<br />
oranges 4<br />
garlic 4 cloves<br />
olive oil 2 T<br />
butter 1 T<br />
chicken stock 3 cups<br />
mussels 1 kg, cleaned<br />
cream 1 cup<br />
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper,<br />
to taste<br />
1 Preheat the oven to 180°C. Arrange the<br />
fennel, the rind of 1 orange, 2 oranges,<br />
halved, and the garlic on a baking tray.<br />
Drizzle with olive oil, dot with butter and<br />
roast for 30 minutes, or until caramelised.<br />
2 Transfer the fennel and garlic to a large<br />
saucepan, add the stock and squeeze in<br />
the juice of the oranges. Bring to a simmer,<br />
uncovered, until the fennel is very tender,<br />
about 20 minutes. 3 Add the mussels and<br />
simmer until opened. Remove the mussels<br />
and set aside. Blend the sauce until smoth,<br />
return to a low heat, add the cream and the<br />
mussels and simmer until warmed through.<br />
Season to taste and serve warm with fennel<br />
fronds, diced orange segments and lots<br />
of black pepper.<br />
CARB-CONSCIOUS, HEALTH-CONSCIOUS,<br />
WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE<br />
CARAMELISED ORANGE-AND-<br />
FENNEL MUSSELS<br />
R37 PER SERVING<br />
FLAVOUR NOTE<br />
Fresh orange juice, fennel and garlic –<br />
the secret to a truly knockout<br />
(easy!) cream sauce.
PEOPLE AND FOOD<br />
Manny’s original<br />
prego – dripping in<br />
secret sauce.<br />
80<br />
Pass<br />
the<br />
peri-peri<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS JAN RAS PRODUCTION ABIGAIL DONNELLY TEXT KATE ELS
PEOPLE AND FOOD<br />
Slap chips at Manny’s and prawns at Parreirinha are a sure sign<br />
you’ve gone just far enough into Joburg’s southern suburbs to<br />
discover a handful of no-frills eateries – institutions where the rich<br />
Portuguese influence has been drawing locals for decades<br />
A family affair – Ylisabete, José,<br />
Gloria and matriarch, Maria<br />
da Cunha, of Parreirinha.
PEOPLE AND FOOD<br />
Above, from left: Freshly baked each morning, Bembom offers traditional Portuguese pastries; sardines at Rio Douro Fisheries; thousands of ties hang from the rafters<br />
of Parreirinha in Rosettenville – testament to many a boisterous business lunch.<br />
82<br />
TRYING TO GAIN<br />
a sense of place while standing on a corner<br />
of Rosettenville’s Main Street is a bit like<br />
going for a spin in a hurricane. Colour,<br />
scent, grime and chaos merge against<br />
a backdrop that’s distinctly from the 1950s,<br />
but that’s mostly been updated with newer,<br />
brighter signage.<br />
Amid the sensory overload, I’m<br />
transported back 25 years to the time<br />
when my mother owned a small shop<br />
in this community, a time when the<br />
Portuguese influence of this place settled<br />
into my cultural tapestry.<br />
For those who grew up around here, fish<br />
and chips from Manny’s, an icy caipirinha at<br />
Lusito Land and the legend of Nando’s are<br />
points of pride. Families that settled here<br />
between 1930 and 1970 are seeing in their<br />
third generation, passing on ritual and fiery<br />
spirit, and keeping the Portuguese flavour<br />
integral to Rosettenville alive.<br />
Eateries, cafés, bakeries and fishmongers<br />
dotted throughout the suburb and its<br />
surrounds form an inseparable community<br />
that has been responsible for countless<br />
fond food memories for Johannesburg’s<br />
diners. From the first taste of a rissole,<br />
to the sweet flesh of bacalhau (cod) and<br />
the zing of garlicky peri-peri sauce, this<br />
is the epicentre of that community.<br />
This is not a fine-dining experience.<br />
It’s a melting pot of distinct flavour and<br />
tradition that often ends in diners ignoring<br />
the cutlery to dig in with their hands.<br />
Welcome to Johannesburg’s spicy south…<br />
A PLACE FOR PEIXE<br />
While it might be the chilli, paprika<br />
and bay leaves that define Portuguese<br />
fare, the foundation is great seafood.<br />
There are obviously other options, but<br />
Rio Douro Fisheries is the predominant<br />
Mediterranean deli for shoppers and<br />
restaurants around here.<br />
“JUICY PREGO<br />
ROLLS, GARLICKY<br />
TRINCHADO AND<br />
THE BEST SLAP<br />
CHIPS IN JOBURG.<br />
THIS IS WHERE<br />
TO GO IF YOU<br />
NEED A QUICK<br />
PORTUGUESE<br />
FOOD FIX”<br />
Memories of strong-handed women<br />
scraping the scales off fish, while<br />
Mediterranean mothers bickered over<br />
salted bacalhau flood my brain as Manny<br />
Sequeira, one of the four siblings who now<br />
own Rio Douro, says nostalgically: “This<br />
is where I grew up and now my kids are<br />
growing up here, too. We have staff who<br />
remember me running around here as a<br />
little boy and they’re now seeing my own<br />
kids in the shop.”<br />
With its beginnings as a humble<br />
fish-and-chip shop on a nearby block,<br />
the four siblings’ father, Artur David<br />
Sequeira, started selling fresh fish to<br />
regulars. Over time, the operation<br />
expanded and eventually became a<br />
Portuguese deli that bustles every Saturday.<br />
“We have become a destination for<br />
continental delicacies; generations have<br />
shopped here.” Manny laughs when<br />
I suggest that his family is famous in<br />
these parts. But, in a sense, it’s the truth.<br />
In a good year, Rio Douro imports and<br />
sells 72 tonnes of bacalhau. This sustainably<br />
caught speciality cod is salted, dried and<br />
shipped to South Africa from Norway,<br />
right to the doors of this fishmonger. From<br />
Rio Douro, it’s sold on to traditionalists<br />
who shop here and dispatched in big<br />
batches to restaurants to be presented<br />
in stews, rissoles, fresh off the flames,<br />
or in a multitude of other dishes.<br />
Rio Douro is not only a stop for those<br />
with a Portuguese heritage, though. It has<br />
also become one of the most reliable delis<br />
in Johannesburg for ingredients not found<br />
elsewhere. In recent years, there has also<br />
been a growing clientele of immigrants<br />
longing for a taste of home, especially<br />
those from former Portuguese colonies<br />
such as Angola and Mozambique.<br />
This is a deli filled with memories.<br />
The siblings laugh over one of the
PEOPLE AND FOOD<br />
“ALL THAT REALLY MATTERS IS<br />
THAT GREAT PASTÉIS DE NATA<br />
COULD BRING ABOUT WORLD<br />
PEACE IF CONSUMED BY WORLD<br />
LEADERS SIMULTANEOUSLY,<br />
FRESH OUT OF THE OVEN”<br />
Clockwise, from above left: Sergio de Andrade, Fernando Domingues and Suzy’s husband, Manuel Farinha, shoot the breeze café-style at Bembom; perfect pastéis de nata;<br />
Filomena Jardin with a display of local chorizo at Rio Douro Fisheries; chicken livers and bacalhau – staples at Parreirinha.
PEOPLE AND FOOD<br />
OTHER PORTUGUESE<br />
SPOTS TO TRY<br />
MADEIRA BAR<br />
Cheap and cheerful<br />
56 Winnie Street, Regents Park,<br />
La Rochelle, Johannesburg<br />
011 435 2477<br />
A CHURRASQUEIRA<br />
Moved from Rosettenville,<br />
still great for families<br />
37 Webb Street, Brackendowns,<br />
Johannesburg 011 867 5914<br />
BELEM BAKERY<br />
A prominent Portuguese bakery<br />
57 Augusta Road, Regents Park,<br />
Johannesburg 011 435 1004<br />
Parreinrinha. Each day, she spends most<br />
of her time in the kitchen, making sure<br />
every dish is prepared to her standard.<br />
“I get bored on Sundays when we close<br />
the restaurant. My children say I need<br />
rest, but I love it here too much.”<br />
9 6th Street, La Rochelle, Johannesburg;<br />
tel: 011 435 3809<br />
Above: A stop at Rio Douro Fisheries can turn into a major shopping spree. Portuguese pottery, salted bacalhau,<br />
and traditional sausage can be found among other imported fare.<br />
most prominent of these in their mind:<br />
portioning hundreds of pieces of bacalhau<br />
through the night around Easter, when the<br />
dish becomes even more popular during Lent.<br />
In just one memory the siblings capture<br />
the essence of what has made Rio Douro<br />
a destination: its loyal community who<br />
travel from even further than Johannesburg’s<br />
boundaries to buy their favourite produce.<br />
155 Main Street, Kenilworth, Johannesburg;<br />
tel: 011 683 3617<br />
THE MOTHER OF ROSETTENVILLE<br />
Joburg allows very little to remain the<br />
same, but some corners remain unchanged.<br />
One of these is Parreirinha (say Pa-rey-ringhere),<br />
the Portuguese restaurant that most<br />
residents of the City of Gold will know.<br />
Here, matriarch Maria da Cunha oversees<br />
her kitchen, family and an army of ties<br />
strung from the rafters left behind after<br />
raucous business meetings.<br />
Meaning “little grapevine”, Parreirinha<br />
first opened its doors in 1975 in what<br />
had previously housed the Sixth Street<br />
police station. The original cell bars are still<br />
visible, but these days patrons are fighting<br />
to get in rather than out.<br />
“It doesn’t feel like I’ve been here for<br />
42 years,” Maria says with honest disbelief.<br />
Describing her regular customers, she<br />
seems to recall the details of each person’s<br />
life. She’s watched little boys grow into<br />
doctors and, in turn, bring their own<br />
families to the restaurant.<br />
Maria’s three children are entrenched<br />
in Parreirinha, overseeing the front of<br />
house, admin and the kitchen. Patrons<br />
return for the food, but also the incredible<br />
family welcome.<br />
Each year, Parreirinha pushes itself<br />
to capacity during its birthday celebrations,<br />
selling prawn platters at way below<br />
their regular price as a thank you to<br />
loyal customers. Within just three days,<br />
bookings are snapped up.<br />
If anything, the past four decades have<br />
only made Maria more dedicated to<br />
THE (ALMOST) 200-YEAR-<br />
OLD PASTRY<br />
“This is the Portuguese club,” laughs<br />
Suzy Farinha as she sits in her bakery<br />
in Oakdene (just outside Rosettenville),<br />
surrounded by loyal patrons. “My family<br />
owns the group of Bembom bakeries<br />
but this is the one with the largest<br />
Portuguese community. And it’s the<br />
original Bembom.”<br />
With a surname that literally translates<br />
to “flour” in English, it’s a natural fit for<br />
her to be surrounded by it. Suzy moved to<br />
South Africa from Portugal after spending<br />
three months in Johannesburg looking<br />
after the bakery for her sister. “I fell in<br />
love with Bembom, and my husband fell<br />
in love with the weather here.”<br />
Suzy likens Bembom to a soap opera,<br />
with a close-knit community that shares its<br />
joys, sorrows and gossip. It’s a favourite for<br />
pensioners and young families, ladies who<br />
lunch and men who want to shoot the<br />
breeze. And on Saturdays, the queues can<br />
sometimes be out the door when people<br />
wait in line to get their pastéis de nata.<br />
These bite-sized custard tarts stake their<br />
origins in Lisbon in the 18th century, the
85<br />
Clockwise, from top left: Manny, Fatima and Artur Sequeira of Rio Douro Fisheries; trinchado with bread so that no sauce is left behind at Hillside Fish & Chips; Beauty<br />
Vieira-Correia and Chris Retief share a meal at Hillside Fish & Chips; daily specials at Bembom; prawn rissoles seasoned with white pepper at Parreirinha.<br />
product of excess egg yolks in a monastery<br />
that knew what to do with them when the<br />
egg whites were all being used to starch<br />
nuns’ habits. To me, all that really matters is<br />
that great pastéis de nata could bring about<br />
world peace if consumed by world leaders<br />
simultaneously, fresh out of the oven.<br />
Comaro Crossing Centre, Oakdene, Johannesburg;<br />
tel: 011 435 3618<br />
PREGO DAYDREAMS<br />
Fondly known as Manny’s after its former<br />
owner, Hillside Fish & Chips is an<br />
institution. Whether it was an after-school<br />
lunch, a Saturday morning hangover cure,<br />
or family dinner, Manny’s covered it all.<br />
When Manny Frade, the original<br />
owner, passed away in 2014, longstanding<br />
patrons of Hillside Fish & Chips who<br />
have supported the establishment since it<br />
opened in 1966, were terrified it would<br />
close its doors.<br />
“FROM THE FIRST<br />
TASTE OF A<br />
RISSOLE, TO THE<br />
SWEET FLESH<br />
OF BACALHAU<br />
AND THE ZING OF<br />
GARLICKY PERI-<br />
PERI SAUCE, THIS<br />
IS THE EPICENTRE<br />
OF THAT<br />
COMMUNITY”<br />
Fortunately Hillside Fish & Chips was<br />
taken over by Manny’s neighbour, Beauty<br />
Vieira-Correia, who vowed to keep it<br />
exactly the same. The original menu,<br />
specials and staff are waiting when you<br />
walk through the door. Chris Retief, who<br />
now helps manage the shop, was himself<br />
a long-term patron and takes pride in the<br />
fact that the same recipes are used and the<br />
original dishes that Manny made famous<br />
are still available to this day.<br />
Hillside Fish & Chips is a nostalgic trip<br />
for anybody who grew up in Joburg’s south.<br />
The sharp tang of garlic hangs in the air, the<br />
sizzle of chips hitting the fryer is constant,<br />
and the trickle of prego sauce down your<br />
hands are what you’ll remember from here.<br />
Regulars pop in and discuss their lives,<br />
teenagers hang around outside sipping<br />
on cooldrinks and elderly couples wait<br />
patiently for their midweek meals.<br />
From juicy prego rolls and garlicky<br />
trinchado to what I think are the best<br />
slap chips in Joburg, this is where to go<br />
if you need a quick Portuguese food fix.<br />
It’s café food at its best, and you’ll feel at<br />
home almost immediately with the banter<br />
between staff and customers.<br />
76 Petunia Street, The Hill, Johannesburg;<br />
tel: 011 435 3759
RESTAURANTS<br />
SA’S TOP<br />
10<br />
86<br />
La Colombe's Asian-style scallops and<br />
pork belly with kimchi, corn, miso brinjal,<br />
crackling, lemongrass and ginger velouté.<br />
GAME-CHANGERS<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS EAT OUT, CRAIG FRASER, MICHAEL LE GRANGE, MICKY HOYLE, DONNA LEWIS,<br />
VANESSA LEWIS AND JAN RAS TEXT MICHELLE COBURN AND ABIGAIL DONNELLY
The Tasting Room at Le Quartier Français<br />
The Tasting Room has closed, The Test Kitchen has run pop-ups in Langa, and<br />
Reuben’s and The Leopard have moved! <strong>2017</strong> is shaping up to be big in the<br />
The Test Kitchen<br />
restaurant biz. There’s no better time to look back at some of our most iconic<br />
restaurants, so here (in no particular order) are TASTE’s top 10 trailblazers<br />
The Leopard
88<br />
1.<br />
THE TEST KITCHEN<br />
FOR CONSISTENT INNOVATION AND REINVENTION<br />
“My mantra is ‘taste, taste, taste,’ ” says chef-proprietor Luke Dale-Roberts, and it’s this mantra that underpins his bold experimentation<br />
with layers of flavour, first at La Colombe, where he joined the team in 2006, then at the now legendary The Test Kitchen, which<br />
Luke opened in November 2010 in Woodstock. Here he had free rein to innovate – the sum of his prior experience in London<br />
and Switzerland, as well as a five-year stint in Asia – in a way that captured the imaginations and taste buds of local diners and<br />
international luminaries alike (Heston Blumenthal described Luke as having the ability to “put seemingly incongruent ingredients<br />
together in such a way that they work amazingly well – something close to my heart”). The Test Kitchen has won countless South<br />
African and continental awards, including best restaurant at the Eat Out awards five times, and moved swiftly up the World’s Best<br />
Restaurants list, from 74 in 2012 to 22 in 2016 (unfortunately losing its spot in <strong>2017</strong> following a temporary closure to accommodate<br />
a redesign). And, in an unprecedented step by a South African high-end restaurant, The Test Kitchen recently took fine-dining to<br />
Langa in Cape Town for two pop-up charity lunches (see the story in next month’s TASTE). In a mere seven years, Luke has added The<br />
Shortmarket Club and The Pot Luck Club (breaking news: there’s a pop-up running from <strong>July</strong> to September at Hallmark House in the<br />
Maboneng Precinct in Joburg ) to his portfolio. And he now has a permanent home in Joburg at LDR at The Saxon.<br />
We can’t help but ask: what in the world will Luke do next? We can’t wait to find out. thetestkitchen.co.za<br />
Above, from left: Luke Dale-Roberts; carob mousse, roast banana butter, meringue,<br />
rum foam, coffee and Tanariva cremeux. Left: Tandoori lamb chops at Bukhara.<br />
2.<br />
BUKHARA<br />
FOR BRINGING INDIAN FINE-DINING TO SA<br />
Cape Town’s city centre in the mid-nineties was an unlikely place to open<br />
a restaurant – the area was practically empty of businesses, many of which had<br />
moved to the Foreshore. But Indian-born Sabi Sabarwhal wanted to share his<br />
passion for the food of his homeland and had identified a gap for a restaurant<br />
serving premium north Indian cuisine. He decided to take a chance on a space<br />
in Church Street and, in 1995, opened what would become one of the city’s<br />
longest-standing restaurants – an institution that played its part in the CBD’s<br />
revival. From day one, Capetonians and tourists flocked through its doors<br />
to feast on Punjabi cuisine – his dhal makhani is legendary – from a menu that<br />
has evolved to include dishes from other regions in India – always using authentic<br />
ingredients and techniques. The collection also includes Haiku, which opened in<br />
2005 to offer authentic multi-Asian cuisine (another first for Capetonians); while Del<br />
Mar in Camps Bay serves genuine contemporary Mexican food (a departure from<br />
the Tex-Mex style South Africans know and love). And to think it all started as a<br />
way for Sabi – a trained particle physicist with a passion for great food – to remain<br />
connected to his Indian roots! bukhara.com; haikurestaurant.com; delmar.restaurant
3.<br />
LA COLOMBE<br />
FOR PIONEERING<br />
GOURMET WINE-<br />
ESTATE DINING<br />
The Western Cape winelands<br />
today are renowned for<br />
their high-end destination<br />
restaurants. But it was muchloved<br />
French-born chef and<br />
cookbook author Franck<br />
Dangereux who led the way<br />
in wine-estate fine-dining<br />
when he joined legendary<br />
Constantia Uitsig chef Frank<br />
Swainston at the estate in<br />
1996 to start La Colombe.<br />
A gastronomic revolution<br />
was underway in SA and<br />
La Colombe won multiple<br />
awards in recognition of<br />
Franck’s cooking, which he<br />
described as dishes “simplified<br />
to the perfect combinations”.<br />
Luke Dale-Roberts (see #1),<br />
took the reins as executive<br />
chef in late 2006 when Franck<br />
left to open the more informal<br />
Foodbarn in Noordhoek. And<br />
today under Scot Kirton –<br />
at the restaurant’s new<br />
location on the picture-perfect<br />
Silvermist organic wine<br />
estate – La Colombe holds<br />
73rd position on <strong>2017</strong>’s San<br />
Pellegrino Best Restaurants of<br />
the World list. Scot was also<br />
the Eat Out S. Pellegrino Chef<br />
of the Year in 2015, recognised<br />
for his food integrating classic<br />
and modern French cuisine<br />
with Asian influences (a<br />
favourite is the “tinned tuna”:<br />
seared tuna tataki with avo<br />
purée, ginger and a poached<br />
quail’s egg). And now, with<br />
his position in the Constantia<br />
Valley secure (Scot’s also<br />
making waves at Foxcroft<br />
at High Constantia), the<br />
La Colombe team has taken<br />
over the space at Le Quartier<br />
Français in Franschhoek (see<br />
#5) to open La Petite Colombe<br />
in August. lacolombe.co.za<br />
RESTAURANTS<br />
Above, from left: Springbok loin, roast fig, potato fondant, smoked onion and truffle at La Colombe; La Colombe’s new location<br />
at Constantia's Silvermist Estate. Below: Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse.<br />
4.<br />
CLEOPATRA MOUNTAIN FARMHOUSE<br />
FOR AWARD-WINNING GOURMET COUNTRY CUISINE<br />
Country-chic doesn’t get more spectacular than this KwaZulu-Natal gem, where Richard and Mouse<br />
Poynton have created an award-winning gourmet escape in the Drakensberg. Widely regarded as being<br />
among the originators of the country house movement in the 1980s with their much-loved Granny<br />
Mouse Country House, they left for a stint overseas and returned from their food-and-wine escapades<br />
in Europe and the UK inspired to start a gourmet destination hotel amid the peace and magnificent beauty<br />
of their family farm. Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse has since earned an international reputation for its fine<br />
country fare, including a seven-course dinner and a three-course breakfast like none you’ve ever eaten. The<br />
underground wine cellar specialises in South African gins, brandies and wines (including Cleopatra’s very<br />
own hand-crafted Copper Pot wines made under the Thorne & Daughters label by Richard’s son-in-law,<br />
John Seccombe). Book for dinner, or stay over to enjoy the incredible breakfast, too. cleopatramountain.com
120<br />
5.<br />
THE TASTING ROOM AT<br />
LE QUARTIER FRANÇAIS<br />
FOR PUTTING SA FOOD ON THE<br />
WORLD MAP<br />
Sometimes it takes a newcomer to offer<br />
a fresh perspective on produce that locals<br />
might regard as, well, everyday. In the case of<br />
SA cuisine, this newcomer came in the shape<br />
of Dutch-born chef Margot Janse, who joined<br />
the award-winning team at Le Quartier Français<br />
in Franschhoek as executive chef in 1995. Her<br />
passion for seasonal local produce and indigenous<br />
ingredients, combined with a playful imagination<br />
and experimental approach to textures, flavours<br />
and aromas, saw her telling stories through her<br />
African-inspired menu – described by some as<br />
a gourmet safari. “For me it has a lot to do with<br />
origins: the origin of an animal, what it did when it<br />
was alive, what it ate and where it grew up. What<br />
is happening on my plate has to make sense and<br />
reveal these origins,” she once said. “If someone<br />
walks away from the experience saying ‘Wow, I’ve<br />
learnt so much about South Africa, the people, the<br />
food’, then I know I have succeeded.” The world<br />
took note of her approach. The restaurant made<br />
the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2002, and<br />
countless local and international awards followed<br />
over the years. Margot left in April to pursue<br />
something new and there’s a fresh era ahead<br />
as the team from La Colombe (see #3) takes over<br />
at Le Quartier. leeucollection.com<br />
Left, clockwise from top: The Tasting Room’s Pepe Charlot<br />
bûche affinée, fermented turnip, linseed cracker and<br />
smoked honey; beetroot, buttermilk labneh, buchu and<br />
cucumber granita; preserved lime and onion crisps.<br />
6.<br />
Right: The duck-and-cherry<br />
pie at 96 Winery Road.<br />
GATRILE’S<br />
FOR BREAKING THE MOULD<br />
OF MODERN BISTRO FARE IN JOBURG<br />
The stats for Gatrile’s famous duck-and-cherry pie tell a story that<br />
lives on beyond the 2003 closure of this popular Joburg restaurant.<br />
Established in Joubert Park in the mid-seventies, it moved to<br />
Sandown in 1988 and reportedly sold more than 250 000 pies, using<br />
22 tons of duck and 12 tons of cherries. A legendary pie like that<br />
can never die (think rich duck meat, sweet-tart cherries in Port<br />
sauce under crispy puff pastry) and it lives on at 96 Winery Road<br />
in Somerset West, which was started 21 years ago by Gatrile’s<br />
co-founder Ken Forrester (the maker of some of SA’s finest Chenin<br />
Blancs). A look at some of the earlier menus from Gatrile’s tells quite<br />
a tale, too: the popular Kate and Sydney (steak-and-kidney) pie set<br />
diners back a whopping R2.55 and lobster cost all of R5. And the<br />
famous crème brûlée? Well, that also made its way down south<br />
to 96 Winery Road. The recipe remains the same (why change<br />
what’s perfect?). The price, of course, has kept up with inflation.<br />
But it’s so worth it. 96wineryroad.co.za; kenforresterwines.com
RESTAURANTS<br />
7.<br />
8.<br />
Above, from left: Andrea Burgener; cilbir – poached eggs with garlic yoghurt and paprika sage butter.<br />
Below, from left: Reuben Riffel; Reuben’s at the One&Only hotel at Cape Town’s V&A Waterfront.<br />
REUBEN’S RESTAURANT AND BAR<br />
FOR CREATING A SOPHISTICATED BRASSERIE IN THE WINELANDS<br />
When Reuben Riffel won both the Eat Out Johnnie Walker Restaurant of the Year and Chef of the Year<br />
awards in 2004 not long after opening his first restaurant at 19 Huguenot Street in Franschhoek, it<br />
affirmed that a culinary star had been born in the valley. And this despite Reuben’s humble beginnings in<br />
the nearby suburb of Groendal, as well as his lack of formal chef training. It was as a waiter at Chamonix<br />
under Christoph Dehosse that Reuben learnt the art of food preparation (he later became sous chef<br />
under Richard Carstens). A stint overseas followed, and the next step was an eatery to call his own.<br />
For well over a decade, loyal patrons flocked to the flagship restaurant (he also has branches at the<br />
One&Only hotel in the V&A Waterfront and Abalone House in Paternoster) for the likes of steak and<br />
frites with sauce Béarnaise, chilli-salted squid and Szechuan duck pie, and a host of popular chalkboard<br />
specials. After closing at 19 Huguenot Street in May this year, the MasterChef SA judge and TV celeb<br />
recently opened at a brand-new space at 2 Daniel Hugo Road, where signature dishes include springbok<br />
steak with butternut honey, bacon candy, walnuts and pickled cabbage, and pork belly with fynbos<br />
honey, pineapple atchar and sweet potato. reubens.co.za<br />
THE LEOPARD<br />
FOR CHAMPIONING<br />
FREE-RANGE<br />
INGREDIENTS<br />
IN JOBURG<br />
“Food producers of the world<br />
unite! We’re always looking to<br />
meet producers of well-farmed<br />
and ethically reared produce.<br />
If you know someone who’s<br />
got the happiest, healthiest<br />
pigs running around, let us<br />
know.” This request on The<br />
Leopard’s website says it all.<br />
Before closing in Melville in May<br />
this year, Andrea Burgener’s<br />
restaurant (Joburg diners will<br />
also remember her early days at<br />
Superbonbon in Richmond and<br />
Deluxe in Parktown North) was<br />
renowned for supporting the<br />
likes of Braeside Butchery and<br />
The Free Range Food Co. on a<br />
small, adventurous menu. She's<br />
always attributed her creative<br />
approach to the fact that she<br />
never went to chef school.<br />
“I never knew I was breaking<br />
rules – I didn’t know what the<br />
rules were!” The Leopard has<br />
now changed its format and<br />
location: no longer a sit-down<br />
restaurant, it’s a free-range<br />
larder and takeaway venue<br />
(rillettes, chop-chop salads),<br />
as well as a great stop-off for<br />
top-quality, ready-to-heat<br />
and cook-at-home dishes<br />
(marinated pork ribs, chicken<br />
and leek pie) situated at 44<br />
Stanley. leopardfoodcompany.com<br />
91
9.<br />
120<br />
CARNE SA<br />
FOR PIONEERING THE FINE-DINING STEAKHOUSE IN SA<br />
Award-winning chef-proprietor Giorgio Nava’s name is synonymous with the<br />
celebration of premium-quality meat cooked to perfection. For the past nine years,<br />
Capetonians have enjoyed the very best beef, lamb and venison at his flagship<br />
fine-dining steakhouse in Keerom Street, just a stone’s throw from the Cape Town<br />
High Court. With signature dishes such as the 1.2 kg La Florentina T-bone (definitely<br />
intended to share – as long as you agree on how you like your meat done!), and the<br />
likes of bresaola with lemon juice and olive oil, and Karoo lamb with sautéed spinach,<br />
carnivores are truly spoilt for choice. Here, and at the newer branch on Kloof Street,<br />
patrons can rely on staff to be well-informed about everything from where the animal<br />
was raised, to ageing techniques and the flavour of the meat. This attention to detail<br />
saw Carne SA winning the Eat Out DStv Food Network Restaurant Award for Best<br />
Steakhouse in SA in 2014. (Giorgio’s Italian fine-dining restaurant,<br />
95 Keerom, took the award for Best Italian Restaurant in 2013). So when<br />
you come to Keerom Street, come hungry! carne-sa.com<br />
Carne SA<br />
10.<br />
WILLOUGHBY AND CO.<br />
FOR MAKING AUTHENTIC<br />
SUSHI ACCESSIBLE<br />
Queuing in a mall? For sushi? Well<br />
yes, for 21 years Capetonians (who,<br />
let’s face it, are spoilt for choice when<br />
it comes to restaurants with views),<br />
have willingly been doing exactly<br />
that for sushi chef Sammy's famous<br />
creations. Since opening in the<br />
Victoria Wharf at the V&A Waterfront<br />
in 1996, Willoughby’s (as it’s fondly<br />
known to devotees) has consistently<br />
created new mouthwatering seafood<br />
platters and fusion-style Japanese<br />
cuisine, but it’s the sushi that has<br />
locals and tourists standing in line<br />
(there’s a no-reservations policy – but<br />
you are welcome to sip a glass of<br />
wine while you wait). You won’t regret<br />
the chance to build up an appetite for<br />
the chilli-seared tuna sashimi and<br />
Rainbow Reloaded rolls dressed with<br />
soya sauce, seven spice and sesame<br />
oil. willoughbyandco.co.za
RESTAURANTS<br />
Emily’s<br />
Linger Longer<br />
PORTRAITS JAC DE VILLIERS, STEPHEN INGGS, MICHAEL LE GRANGE AND ADRIAAN OOSTHUIZEN<br />
EXTRA SOURCES EATOUT.CO.ZA; JOBURG.ORG.ZA; 10AND5.COM; TIMESLIVE.CO.ZA; DESIGNINDABA.CO.ZA; MG.CO.ZA<br />
GONE BUT NEVER<br />
FORGOTTEN<br />
These four institutions – open for decades<br />
before finally closing their doors – will never<br />
be forgotten by the generations lucky enough<br />
to dine at one of their tables<br />
EMILY'S The legendary Peter Veldsman<br />
served his signature heritage food to<br />
Capetonians for 23 years, from the early<br />
nineties in Woodstock, to a new location<br />
in the Waterfront and then Kloof Street<br />
in Gardens. It finally closed its doors<br />
in 2015 when Peter chose to retire.<br />
GRAMADOELAS Famed for giving<br />
a platform to local cuisine and later dishes<br />
from the rest of Africa, this institution<br />
opened in 1967 in Hillbrow before moving<br />
to Joubert Park and finally the Market<br />
Theatre in Newtown. Founders Eduan<br />
Naude and the late Brian Shalkoff were<br />
honoured with the Lannice Snyman Lifetime<br />
Achievement Award at the 2014 Eat Out<br />
Mercedes-Benz Restaurant Awards, following<br />
the restaurant’s closure in 2013.<br />
LINGER LONGER A much-loved<br />
Sandton special-occasions restaurant where<br />
the late Walter Ulz was chef-patron for more<br />
than 30 years. We’ll never forget the apricotglazed<br />
duck and that crème brûlée. Walter<br />
was awarded the Lannice Snyman Lifetime<br />
Achievement Award at the 2010 Eat Out<br />
Restaurant Awards.<br />
THE THREE SHIPS This premier Joburg<br />
restaurant was located at the five-star<br />
Carlton Hotel in the CBD in the eighties and<br />
hosted international politicians and celebs.<br />
The Carlton venue has been closed since<br />
the late nineties, but was a prime example<br />
of hotel dining in its heyday. It moved to<br />
Gold Reef City in the 2000s, but it’s the<br />
original that regulars remember.<br />
THE PIONEERS<br />
A comprehensive list of trailblazers in the local food and hospitality industry would fill all the pages of this mag,<br />
but these four are people who deserve a mention right now<br />
THE FORAGER:<br />
KOBUS VAN<br />
DER MERWE<br />
The foraging West Coast<br />
chef put Strandveld<br />
ingredients on the map,<br />
originally at his family<br />
restaurant Oep ve Koep in<br />
Paternoster and now on<br />
the seasonal tasting menu<br />
at recently opened Wolfgat.<br />
wolfgat.co.za<br />
THE BAKER:<br />
MARKUS FARBINGER<br />
Artisanal loaves are a dime<br />
a baker’s dozen these days<br />
but this baker paved the<br />
way at Knysna’s Île de Pain.<br />
Markus built the first woodfired<br />
oven for baking bread<br />
in SA and his rustic breads<br />
produced through slow<br />
fermentation are the stuff<br />
of legend. iledepain.co.za<br />
THE COUNTRY VILLAGE<br />
RESTAURATEURS:<br />
PETER AND MARIANA<br />
ESTERHUIZEN<br />
For the past two decades,<br />
Mariana’s in Stanford has been<br />
renowned for its country-style<br />
home cooking using seasonal<br />
ingredients from the on-site<br />
garden. Book well in advance.<br />
stanfordvillage.co.za/homedeli-bistro/<br />
THE HOTELIER:<br />
LIZ MCGRATH<br />
Mrs M changed hotel finedining<br />
in South Africa with<br />
her iconic hotel collection<br />
(The Marine, The Plettenberg<br />
and The Cellars-Hohenort),<br />
where the restaurants are<br />
currently headed up by<br />
award-winning executive<br />
chef Peter Tempelhoff.<br />
collectionmcgrath.com<br />
93
NEW COOKBOOK<br />
MASTERS OF<br />
All hungry travellers know that the best way to connect<br />
with a new culture is to join the throngs at the sidewalk stalls<br />
and festival food trucks of the world. But when all you want is tamales<br />
in Mexico City or hot dogs in NYC and the exchange rate won’t play<br />
ball, the recipes in the new MasterChef: Street Food of the World<br />
cookbook will satisfy your wanderlust (and your taste buds) at home<br />
STREETFOOD<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS DAVID LOFTUS<br />
TEXT GENEVIEVE TAYLOR
BIKSEMAD<br />
Upgrade it by adding cubes of fried bacon, slices<br />
of fried sausage or home-made Béarnaise sauce.
NEW COOKBOOK<br />
96<br />
BIKSEMAD<br />
“ Biksemad is a traditional Danish dish created<br />
from leftover meat and boiled potatoes –<br />
typically meat from a beef or pork roast – and<br />
served with fried eggs, pickled vegetables<br />
and condiments such as ketchup, HP sauce<br />
and Worcestershire sauce. Traditionally, the<br />
dish is made by cutting meat and potatoes<br />
into bite-sized cubes and frying them with<br />
onions before serving, but I prefer to cook<br />
the ingredients individually and combine<br />
them afterwards.” – Anders Halskov-Jensen,<br />
MasterChef Denmark 2015 champion<br />
Serves 4<br />
EASY<br />
GREAT VALUE<br />
Preparation: 15 minutes<br />
Cooking: 25 minutes<br />
olive oil 2 T<br />
boiled and cooled potatoes<br />
600 g, cut into 2–3 cm cubes<br />
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper,<br />
to taste<br />
butter 50 g<br />
onions 200 g, thinly sliced<br />
cooked cold roast pork or beef<br />
400 g, cut into 2–3 cm cubes<br />
fresh thyme<br />
free-range eggs 4, fried<br />
1 Place the oil in a frying pan over a high<br />
heat and fry the potato cubes until they have<br />
a nice golden crust. Season with salt and<br />
pepper and set aside. 2 Place half the butter<br />
in the pan and fry the onions over a medium<br />
heat until they soften and start to brown<br />
a little. The idea is to bring out the sweetness<br />
in the onions without frying too much. Set<br />
aside. 3 Fry the meat gently in the remaining<br />
butter. Since the meat is already cooked,<br />
it should just be warmed through. Add the<br />
potatoes and the onions, mix everything<br />
together and season with thyme leaves and<br />
salt and pepper, to taste. 4 Serve the biksemad<br />
with 1 fried egg per person with condiments<br />
and pickled vegetables such as beetroot and<br />
gherkins. If you can get it, Danish rye bread<br />
with butter is a nice side dish.<br />
WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE<br />
WINE: Kleine Zalze Cellar Selection<br />
Cinsault 2016<br />
PAV BHAJI<br />
“Said to have originated as a cheap fast food<br />
for the mill workers of Mumbai in the midnineteenth<br />
century, this simply translates as<br />
“bread” (pav, a soft white roll) and “mashed<br />
vegetables” (bhaji). However, the generous<br />
quantity of butter, along with the exquisite spice<br />
blend, elevates this dish beyond the humble.<br />
The spice blend makes double the quantity<br />
needed for the recipe; store it in an airtight<br />
container for 3–4 weeks and use in place<br />
of garam masala.” – Genevieve Taylor<br />
Serves 4 to 6<br />
EASY<br />
GREAT VALUE<br />
Preparation: 30 minutes<br />
Cooking: 1 hour<br />
For the pav masala spice blend:<br />
dried Kashmiri chillies (or dried<br />
red chillies) 5<br />
coriander seeds 4 T<br />
cumin seeds 2 T<br />
black peppercorns 1 T<br />
fennel seeds 1 T<br />
cloves 8<br />
black or green cardamom 2 pods<br />
amchur (dry mango) powder 1 T<br />
(or 6 t lemon juice)<br />
potatoes 400 g, peeled and cut into<br />
1 cm cubes<br />
butternut 400 g, peeled and cut into<br />
1 cm cubes<br />
cumin seeds 1 T<br />
unsalted butter 75 g<br />
medium red onion 1, finely chopped,<br />
plus an extra ½ red onion, thinly sliced,<br />
to garnish<br />
green chillies 2, chopped<br />
fresh ginger 1 x 25 g piece, grated<br />
garlic 3 cloves, crushed<br />
tomatoes 400 g, finely chopped<br />
soft white rolls 6, halved and buttered<br />
salt, to taste<br />
chopped coriander, to garnish<br />
lemon wedges, to serve<br />
1 To make the spice blend, place all the<br />
ingredients except the amchur powder<br />
or lemon juice in a dry pan over a medium<br />
heat. Toast for a minute or two, until a deep,<br />
toasty aroma rises from the pan. Tip into a<br />
spice mill or pestle and mortar and grind to<br />
a powder, then transfer to a bowl and stir<br />
through the amchur powder or lemon juice<br />
while the spices are still warm. Set aside.<br />
2 Place the potato and butternut in<br />
a saucepan and cover generously with<br />
boiling water. Place over a high heat, bring<br />
to the boil and cook until tender, around<br />
15 minutes. Drain well and set aside.<br />
3 Place the cumin seeds in a saucepan over<br />
a medium heat and toast for 1 minute. Once<br />
you can smell their aroma wafting up from<br />
the pan, add the butter and allow it to sizzle<br />
and melt, then add the red onion and cook,<br />
stirring often, for 10 minutes. 4 Stir through<br />
the chilli, ginger and garlic and fry for a<br />
further 5 minutes, then add the tomatoes<br />
and 3 T pav masala spice mix. Fry for a<br />
further 5 minutes until thick and fragrant,<br />
then add the cooked potato and butternut<br />
with 1½ cups water. Simmer steadily for 20<br />
minutes until thick and rich, mashing with<br />
a potato masher as it cooks. Season to taste<br />
with salt. 5 Heat a large frying pan until hot<br />
and toast the rolls, butter side down, until<br />
crisp. Spoon the bhaji into bowls, scatter<br />
over the red onion slices and coriander and<br />
serve with a wedge of lemon to squeeze<br />
over and a roll to dunk in and scoop it up.<br />
DAIRY-FREE<br />
WINE: Villiera Jasmine 2016<br />
DAIGAKU IMO<br />
“ Daigaku imo is a classic Japanese dish that<br />
literally means ‘university potato’, because<br />
its inexpensive but wholesome and calorific<br />
ingredients have made it a perennial favourite<br />
among cash-strapped students.” – Tim<br />
Anderson MasterChef UK 2011 champion<br />
Serves 2 to 4<br />
EASY<br />
GREAT VALUE<br />
Preparation: 15 minutes, plus 30 minutes’<br />
soaking time<br />
Cooking: 30 minutes<br />
sweet potatoes (ideally the purpleskinned,<br />
yellow-fleshed variety) 1 large<br />
or 2 small<br />
vegetable oil 3 T<br />
caster sugar 5 T<br />
soya sauce ¼ t<br />
lime 1, zested, plus the juice of ½ lime<br />
black sesame seeds 1 t<br />
1 Wash the sweet potato thoroughly (don’t<br />
peel it) and cut it into irregular wedges no<br />
larger than 3 cm thick. Soak the wedges in<br />
cold water for 20–30 minutes to remove the<br />
excess starch, then dry completely using<br />
kitchen paper or a clean tea towel. 2 Place<br />
the oil, sugar, soya sauce, lime zest and juice<br />
in a deep frying pan over a low heat and stir.<br />
Add the potatoes to the pan, toss to coat<br />
in the sugar mixture, and increase the heat<br />
to medium. 3 Place a lid on the pan and<br />
leave to heat until you hear it sizzling. Turn<br />
the heat down to medium-low and cook<br />
for a further 2–3 minutes, then remove the<br />
lid and cook for another 10 minutes or so,<br />
turning the potatoes frequently to ensure<br />
they brown lightly on all sides. The potatoes<br />
are done when you can pierce them easily<br />
with a chopstick or butter knife. 4 When the
PAV BHAJI<br />
97
NEW COOKBOOK<br />
The flavour is sweet, but not overly so, which means it can<br />
be enjoyed both as a dessert or as an afternoon snack.<br />
DAIGAKU IMO
THE GATSBY<br />
99
NEW COOKBOOK<br />
100<br />
potatoes are tender and browned, turn off<br />
the heat and stir through the sesame seeds.<br />
Cool slightly, then enjoy on its own or with<br />
vanilla ice cream.<br />
DAIRY-FREE, MEAT-FREE<br />
WINE: <strong>Woolworths</strong> Nitida Sauvignon<br />
Blanc-Semillon 2016<br />
THE GATSBY<br />
“Meet the amazing South African gatsby –<br />
an Indian-spiced barbequed steak, chip and<br />
cheese concoction, all squished into a long<br />
baguette made for sharing. I’ve made this<br />
with a home-made fragrant spice powder for<br />
maximum taste, but if you need to eat fast use<br />
ready-made garam masala.” – Genevieve Taylor<br />
Serves 4 (depending on hunger!)<br />
EASY<br />
GREAT VALUE<br />
Preparation: 20 minutes, plus 1 hour’s<br />
marinating time<br />
Cooking: 30 minutes<br />
For the garam masala:<br />
cumin seeds 1 T<br />
coriander seeds 1 T<br />
fennel seeds 1 t<br />
celery seeds 1 t<br />
black peppercorns 1 t<br />
ground turmeric 1 t<br />
vegetable oil 1 T<br />
beef skirt steak or sirloin 500 g<br />
baguette 1 (50–60 cm long), sliced<br />
through, but with top and bottom<br />
still hinged together<br />
oven fries 250 g<br />
extra mature Cheddar 2 handfuls grated<br />
(about 150 g)<br />
sea salt flakes, to taste<br />
1 To make the garam masala, place the<br />
cumin, coriander, fennel and celery seeds<br />
and peppercorns in a small frying pan over<br />
a medium-high heat to toast. As soon as you<br />
can smell their aroma wafting up from the<br />
pan, turn off the heat and tip into a spice mill<br />
or pestle and mortar. Add the turmeric and<br />
grind to a powder. 2 Brush the vegetable oil<br />
over both sides of the steak and sprinkle over<br />
1–2 T garam masala, rubbing it in well. Set<br />
aside to marinate at room temperature for<br />
30 minutes to an hour. Sprinkle a little<br />
sea salt over both sides of the steak just<br />
before grilling. 3 Fire up your barbeque<br />
if you prefer. Once hot, grill the steak to your<br />
liking – about 3 minutes each side for a<br />
medium-rare, depending on the thickness.<br />
4 Once the steak is cooked, transfer to a<br />
plate, cover loosely with foil and leave to rest<br />
for 10 minutes. Slice into thin strips across<br />
the grain for maximum tenderness and<br />
spread out along the length of the opened<br />
baguette. Sprinkle over the hot chips and<br />
cheese, season and hinge the baguette<br />
shut, squeezing together as best you can.<br />
Slice into chunks and tuck in while hot.<br />
WINE: Le Riche Cabernet Sauvignon 2015<br />
JERK CHICKEN,<br />
RICE AND PEAS<br />
“Jerk chicken is always cooked outside, often in<br />
old oil barrels converted to grills, and it’s always<br />
served with rice and peas – although the ‘peas’<br />
are actually black beans. This is a recipe to save<br />
for a barbeque as it just won’t taste the same<br />
if cooked in the oven.” – Genevieve Taylor<br />
Serves 6<br />
EASY<br />
GREAT VALUE<br />
Preparation: 30 minutes, plus overnight<br />
marinating time<br />
Cooking: 1½ hours<br />
For the jerk spice paste:<br />
fresh ginger 1 x 4 cm piece, finely grated<br />
garlic 3 cloves, crushed<br />
Scotch bonnet chillies 2, finely chopped<br />
(seeds removed for less heat)<br />
vegetable oil 2 T<br />
ground allspice 2 T<br />
ground cinnamon 2 T<br />
paprika 2 T<br />
dried thyme 2 T<br />
soft brown sugar 2 T<br />
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper,<br />
to taste<br />
large free-range chicken legs 6<br />
rice 300 g<br />
coconut milk 1 x 400ml can<br />
allspice berries 1 t, bruised<br />
(or ½ t ground allspice)<br />
dried thyme 1 T<br />
dried oregano 1 t<br />
chilli flakes 1 t<br />
black beans 1 x 400 g can, drained<br />
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper,<br />
to taste<br />
lime 1, cut into wedges<br />
1 To make the jerk spice paste, place the<br />
ginger, garlic, chillies and oil in a small bowl<br />
and stir to combine. Add the remaining<br />
ingredients and stir well. Rub the spice paste<br />
all over the chicken legs – you may want to<br />
wear gloves for this as the chillies are mighty<br />
hot! Cover and marinate in the fridge for<br />
2 hours, or preferably overnight. 2 When<br />
you are ready to cook the chicken, light the<br />
barbeque. If you’re using a gas barbeque,<br />
fire up one side to get it really hot; if you’re<br />
using charcoal, heap the coals to one<br />
side to give you a hot side and a cool side.<br />
3 Place the chicken on the hot side and cook<br />
for 10–15 minutes, turning regularly, until<br />
lightly charred all over. Move to the cool side<br />
of the grill and shut the lid. Leave for 20–30<br />
minutes, until cooked through, turning<br />
occasionally – the cooking time depends on<br />
the temperature of the grill and the size of<br />
the chicken legs. It’s better to cook low and<br />
slow than end up with a charred outside and<br />
a raw inside. 4 Place the rice in a mediumsized<br />
saucepan with a snug-fitting lid. Pour in<br />
the coconut milk and ¾ cup water and add<br />
the allspice, thyme, oregano and chilli. Stir<br />
well and soak for 30 minutes. 5 Stir the black<br />
beans through the rice and place over a<br />
medium heat. Bring to the boil, clamp on the<br />
lid and boil for 1 minute. Turn off the heat<br />
but do not remove the lid. Allow to steam<br />
for 13 minutes. Remove the lid and fluff with<br />
a fork. Season to taste. Serve the chicken<br />
with the rice and peas and lime wedges.<br />
DAIRY-FREE, WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE<br />
WINE: Bellingham The Bernard Series<br />
Chenin Blanc 2016<br />
WIN A COPY<br />
In MasterChef Street Food of the World,<br />
British food writer and TV presenter Genevieve<br />
Taylor teamed up with 13 MasterChef<br />
champions, including Adam Liaw, to collect<br />
mouthwatering recipes from the Americas,<br />
Europe, the Middle East and Africa, the Indian<br />
subcontinent, Asia and Australia. Dishes range<br />
from the familiar (classic British fish ‘n’ chips) to<br />
the surprising (midye dolma – spicy rice-stuffed<br />
mussels from Turkey). To win one of two copies<br />
(R660 each, Absolute Press, available at all<br />
good book stores), turn to page 126 for SMS<br />
entry instructions or enter at taste.co.za.<br />
Keyword: MasterChef.<br />
THIS EXTRACT HAS BEEN TAKEN FROM MASTERCHEF STREET FOOD OF THE WORLD BY GENEVIEVE TAYLOR, PUBLISHED BY ABSOLUTE PRESS TEXT © GENEVIEVE TAYLOR, <strong>2017</strong> PHOTOGRAPHY © DAVID LOFTUS, <strong>2017</strong>
Great for a winter braai! Start it several hours before you want to eat, or even the day before, to give the chicken time to marinate.<br />
101<br />
JERK CHICKEN, RICE AND PEAS
TALENT & TERROIR<br />
OUR WINE CELEBRATES THE WINEMAKER WHO HAS DEDICATED HIS TIME TO PERFECTING<br />
A SPECIAL VARIETAL<br />
Unlocking the gifts of nature to better understand the terroir, producing a varietal even more exceptional than the previous vintages.<br />
Through this pursuit of perfection, the winemaker demonstrates what nature can achieve: a creation he can be proud to call his own.<br />
www.bolandcellar.co.za<br />
info@bolandkelder.co.za<br />
021 862 6190<br />
facebook.com/BolandCellar<br />
@BolandCellar<br />
#BetterTogether
FLIGHTS OF<br />
FLAVOUR<br />
Got a craving for the Champagne of Spanish ham, the best doughnuts in the<br />
world, or an incredible bowl of ramen in an unexpected place? These are just<br />
a few of the mouthwatering dishes and authentic ingredients your next holiday<br />
itinerary must include
TRAVEL<br />
JAMÓN<br />
JAMÓN!<br />
The area around the Spanish<br />
town of Guijuelo has produced<br />
delicately flavoured jamon<br />
Iberico de bellota for centuries.<br />
NARINA EXELBY took a road<br />
trip from Madrid to find out<br />
why it’s so highly prized by<br />
the world’s chefs<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS AND TEXT<br />
NARINA EXELBY<br />
104<br />
“HOW DO YOU SAY, ‘Can I please<br />
have a Parma ham sandwich?’ in Spanish?”<br />
I asked my partner, Mark, as we drove west<br />
across Spain from Madrid towards Portugal.<br />
He threw me a worried look. “Don’t even<br />
joke,” he cautioned. “That’s like asking for<br />
Italian wine in Stellenbosch. They might<br />
throw us out of town.”<br />
In Guijuelo, where we’re headed,<br />
ham is serious business. While it’s been<br />
produced here since the Middle Ages, over<br />
the past 100 years or so the industry has<br />
exploded and now drives the economy<br />
of the region. There are odes to pigs and<br />
ham everywhere you look, from statues<br />
to posters, hand-painted signs to fridge<br />
“IT’S THE ACORNS<br />
OF HOLM OAK AND<br />
CORK TREES THAT<br />
FORM THE PRIMARY<br />
DIET FOR IBERIAN<br />
PIGS, GIVING THEIR<br />
MEAT A DELICATE<br />
NUTTY FLAVOUR”<br />
magnets and keyrings; and behind the<br />
counter of almost every bar and café hang<br />
plump, black-hooved hams. Black, because<br />
one of the hams this town produces is the<br />
sweet, delicately nutty-flavoured jamón<br />
Ibérico de bellota – the Champagne of<br />
Spanish ham – that can fetch more<br />
than 1 000 euros apiece, and the reason<br />
for our road trip.<br />
Locals will tell you it’s patience that<br />
makes this ham so special. They’re partly<br />
right – it can take four or five years to<br />
produce – but it also comes down to this:<br />
the intricate relationship between the<br />
black Iberian pig, the climate and the wild<br />
woodland of ancient Spain.<br />
JAMÓN IBÉRICO, OR IBERIAN HAM,<br />
comes from pigs that are at least 75%<br />
Iberian breed, a rare variety found only on<br />
the Iberian Peninsula, and mostly along<br />
the western fringe of Spain. Iberian pigs<br />
have the capacity to store fat within muscle<br />
tissue – and it’s this fat that makes the ham<br />
so tasty. Also, this breed’s ability to pack on<br />
epidermal fat means the ham can be cured<br />
for much longer than others, allowing<br />
the characteristic sweet, intense flavour<br />
of jamón Ibérico to develop fully.<br />
Guijuelo is where the ham is produced,<br />
not where the pigs are farmed, so to find<br />
the dehesa we drove even further west,<br />
searching for oak trees. Dehesa are the<br />
wild, natural ancient foraging grounds for<br />
Iberian pigs, and they provide the crucial<br />
ingredient for jamón Ibérico de bellota.<br />
“Bellota” means acorn, and it’s the acorns<br />
of holm oak and cork trees that form the<br />
primary diet for Iberian pigs, giving their<br />
meat a delicate nutty flavour.<br />
Vincente Martin Perez’s family has<br />
farmed Ibérico pigs for decades, and his<br />
land close to the Portuguese border is<br />
more like a luxury getaway for the animals<br />
than a pig farm. Here, Ibérico pigs roam<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS (OPENING SPREAD)<br />
MARTINA GARDINER, GETTY IMAGES<br />
EXTRA SOURCES JAMON.COM
TRAVEL<br />
WHET YOUR APPETITE<br />
A matcha doughnut moment in Manhattan, a crêpe<br />
escape in Paris and a gourmet kale salad in New York…<br />
six food-obsessed travellers reveal the dish they would<br />
board a plane for right now<br />
Clockwise<br />
from top<br />
left: Peanut<br />
butter and<br />
banana cream;<br />
cinnamon<br />
sugar,<br />
strawberry<br />
and cream,<br />
coconut<br />
cream.<br />
Clockwise from top left: Cafés and delis with hams<br />
painted on them are everywhere in Guijuelo; ham is<br />
best served at room temperature to allow the oils to<br />
release their flavour into the meat; odes to pigs are<br />
found in the streets; queuing for the Champagne<br />
of Spanish ham; jamón Iberico is sliced paperthin.<br />
freely, feasting on the acorns that drop<br />
to the ground during the montanera,<br />
the acorn season, between October<br />
and December each year.<br />
“When our pigs weigh 80 kg they’re<br />
set free into the dehesa,” explained Martin<br />
as his pigs snorted and foraged around us.<br />
“During the montanera each animal eats up<br />
to 10 kg of acorns a day, putting on 800 g<br />
DOUGHNUTS<br />
IN MANHATTAN<br />
“Doughnuts have always<br />
been my guilty pleasure<br />
and, wherever I go in<br />
the world, I have to try the best.<br />
So when my plane ticket to NYC<br />
landed in my hands last year, I had<br />
a sugar rush just thinking about<br />
Doughnut Plant, which had been<br />
on my must-visit list forever.<br />
On our first day my brother-inlaw,<br />
who is a chef in the city (lucky<br />
me), took our family on a foodie<br />
walk – we munched on steamed<br />
buns while exploring Chinatown,<br />
slices of crack pie at Momufuku<br />
and pickles picked up at Katz’s<br />
Delicatessen. And then … dessert<br />
on the Lower East Side.<br />
Nothing I’d heard had prepared<br />
me for the mouthwatering gems<br />
in the glass display cabinet at<br />
Doughnut Plant. There were round<br />
doughnuts, square doughnuts,<br />
some oozing home-made jams<br />
and custards, others inspired by<br />
crème brulée with a caramelised,<br />
crisp golden crust.<br />
These babies are handcrafted<br />
every day using ingredients that<br />
are as natural and organic as<br />
possible – a happy thought<br />
when you’re about to bite into<br />
round two!<br />
We ordered ten (I blame my<br />
sons), including the iconic tres<br />
leches, blueberry-glazed, coconut<br />
and lime, matcha tea, peanut<br />
butter and banana, and cinnamon<br />
sugar doughnuts, all wrapped up<br />
in a twist of brown paper.<br />
The featherlight texture and<br />
heady flavour of yeast sent me<br />
into a state of sweet utopia.<br />
I went on to devour many other<br />
doughnuts on that trip but these<br />
were simply unforgettable.”<br />
– Abigail Donnelly, TASTE food editor;<br />
doughnutplant.com<br />
“THE FEATHERLIGHT TEXTURE<br />
AND HEADY FLAVOUR OF YEAST SENT<br />
ME INTO A STATE OF SWEET UTOPIA”
TRAVEL<br />
106<br />
Above, from left: Iberian pigs roam free in the dehesa, where they forage on the acorns of holm oak and cork trees removed from the trees by the vareado using a long stick;<br />
jamón is literally everywhere in Guijuelo – the town is definitely proud of its heritage.<br />
GOURMET KALE<br />
SALAD ON A US<br />
ROAD TRIP<br />
“Every week seems to<br />
bring a new health fad<br />
or superfood these days. Case in<br />
point: kale – that ubiquitous leafy<br />
green powerhouse and elixir of life for<br />
all who are fending off Old Man Time.<br />
Of course this frilliest of veggies has<br />
been around for millennia as a staple<br />
in the Mediterranean but, as is the<br />
wont of contemporary culture, we’ve<br />
only recently started catching on to<br />
its benefits, including a potent mix<br />
of antioxidant, anti-inflammatory<br />
and nutrient-dense properties.<br />
On a recent rip-roaring road trip in<br />
the USA, I was treated to what turned<br />
out to be a surprising kale trifecta<br />
served in a gourmet context – not<br />
a green juice or smoothie in sight<br />
(oh, the relief!). Soho House in Malibu,<br />
a celebrity haunt known for its Pacific<br />
panorama and faultless food, offered<br />
up a curly kale, red walnut, apple,<br />
radish, sprout, ginger and miso<br />
salad, which set the bar for what<br />
was to be my slow, yet complete,<br />
kale conversion.<br />
The American west coast is the<br />
home of celeb-endorsed health food<br />
crazes that sweep the globe, and<br />
maverick self-taught chef Travis Lett<br />
of Gjelina (right) in Venice Beach,<br />
Los Angeles – the next stop on my<br />
journey – is a dedicated disciple of<br />
all things organic. When confronted<br />
with his perfectly plated Tuscan<br />
kale, shaved fennel and ricotta salad<br />
with breadcrumbs, I was rendered<br />
defenseless against this humble<br />
green and its myriad culinary<br />
interpretations.<br />
Hitting the final home run, Il Buco<br />
in New York City presented a timeless<br />
Mediterranean tribute in the form of<br />
a cavolo nero Tuscan black kale,<br />
garlic-anchovy-lemon vinaigrette,<br />
house-made filone croutons and<br />
Parmigiano Reggiano salad that<br />
proved to be the crowning glory<br />
on my kale campaign trail for <strong>2017</strong>.<br />
Conversion well and truly completed.”<br />
– Seth Shezi, independent content creator<br />
sohohouse.com; gjelina.com; ilbuco.com<br />
“A MOREISH CURLY<br />
KALE, RED WALNUT,<br />
APPLE, RADISH,<br />
SPROUT, GINGER<br />
AND MISO SALAD SET<br />
THE BAR FOR WHAT<br />
WAS TO BE MY SLOW,<br />
YET COMPLETE KALE<br />
CONVERSION”
TRAVEL<br />
PHOTOGRAPH ART GRAY<br />
in 24 hours.” Because the pigs are free<br />
to roam, oil from the acorns works<br />
its way through the animals’ bodies,<br />
marbling the meat.<br />
Pockets of dehesa are what’s left of a vast<br />
Mediterranean forest that once stretched<br />
across southwestern Spain and, along<br />
with the pigs, they are home to fighting<br />
bulls, Merino sheep, foxes, deer, wild<br />
“NEARLY<br />
EVERYWHERE YOU<br />
LOOK THERE ARE<br />
ODES TO PIGS:<br />
STATUES OF PIGS,<br />
POSTERS OF HAMS,<br />
HAND-PAINTED HAM<br />
SIGNS, PIG FRIDGE<br />
MAGNETS AND<br />
KEYRINGS”<br />
boar and lynx, all of which contribute to<br />
the maintenance of a unique ecosystem.<br />
As long as there is a demand for jamón<br />
Ibérico de bellota, the remaining dehesa will<br />
be preserved because having terrain that<br />
contains both holm oak and cork trees<br />
is vital to the production of “acorn ham”:<br />
the cork trees drop their acorns after the<br />
holms do, extending the montanera for<br />
the pigs. Wild mushrooms and aromatic<br />
plants such as rosemary and thyme add to<br />
the pigs’ balanced diet. At the end of the<br />
montanera, once the pigs have more than<br />
doubled their weight, they’re transported<br />
to Guijuelo for slaughter, or what the<br />
Spanish respectfully call el sacraficio.<br />
GUIJUELO IS AT THE CROSSROADS<br />
of medieval trade routes, a busy little<br />
town with an industrial feel and curing<br />
“warehouses” scattered around the<br />
outskirts. Close to the centre is the head<br />
office for Denominación de Origen Guijuelo,<br />
the regulatory body that oversees quality<br />
control of certified Ibérico products from<br />
Guijuelo. It was here that veterinarian<br />
Fermin Sanchez talked us through the<br />
intricate certification and production<br />
processes. When Spanish people buy jamón<br />
and want the absolute top quality, they’ll<br />
often ask for pata negra – with black feet<br />
– because most Iberian pigs have black<br />
hooves, which remain on the ham during<br />
the curing process. At the Denominacion<br />
de Origen Guijuelo, achieving a mark of<br />
quality is not simple. Certified hams are<br />
graded either black (the ultimate), red<br />
or green, and these grades are determined<br />
by stringent monitoring of breeding<br />
practices, feeding strategies, the quality<br />
of the dehesa and the curing process.<br />
The village is 1 000 metres above sea<br />
level and the winters up here are cold,<br />
dry and windy. “This climate is perfect<br />
for curing,” explained Antonio Gómez<br />
Robles, whose family founded Patabrava,<br />
Guijuelo’s first modern curing plant, in<br />
1886. “Because of the climate, less salt<br />
is needed and the hams can dry for longer<br />
than other hams, allowing the flavour<br />
to intensify.”<br />
The details of the process are a closely<br />
guarded secret but Antonio will say this:<br />
the hams are salted for about one day for<br />
every kilogram they weigh. They are then<br />
washed and hung to cure for up to a year<br />
in rooms that are ventilated naturally; after<br />
that they’re stored in an underground cellar<br />
for another two years. “We could fastforward<br />
with force-fed pigs and artificial<br />
chilling rooms, but the final product would<br />
never live up to the quality of traditional<br />
methods,” Antonio says.<br />
At the end of a four- to five-year<br />
process, you have a leg of ham that is<br />
regarded as the finest in the world. Sliced<br />
into pieces thinner than a page of this<br />
magazine, served at room temperature to<br />
bring out the full flavour of the oil, and<br />
enjoyed with a glass of red wine, the sweet<br />
melt-in-your-mouth nuttiness of jamón<br />
Ibérico del ballota really is a taste of history.<br />
So what is<br />
jamón Serrano?<br />
This is also a dry-cured Spanish<br />
ham but it’s made from several<br />
breeds of white pig, rather than<br />
black. It has TSG (traditional<br />
specialities guaranteed) status,<br />
certifying that it has specific<br />
characteristics that differentiate<br />
it from all others in its category,<br />
and that its raw materials,<br />
composition or method of<br />
production have been consistent<br />
for a minimum of 30 years. You’ll<br />
find jamón Serrano (mountain<br />
ham) at selected Woolies stores.<br />
(<strong>Woolworths</strong> sources 90% of its<br />
food products from South Africa<br />
and Africa and sources only<br />
a small percentage of authentic<br />
ingredients from other parts<br />
of the world.)<br />
VEGETARIAN<br />
FARE IN ZURICH<br />
“I’m not a fan of buffetstyle<br />
anything – and<br />
am these days more of<br />
a flexitarian – but for Hiltl, I make<br />
an exception. As a vegetarian<br />
living in Zurich and speaking<br />
barely a word of German, Hiltl<br />
was a haven: endless fresh, tasty,<br />
creative veggie options in an<br />
expat-friendly environment,<br />
thanks to its location in the heart<br />
of the city’s banking district (also:<br />
men in suits). The land of cheese<br />
and chocolate is hardly known<br />
for its gourmet food and like<br />
most of its European neighbours,<br />
is partial to a bit of meat (it<br />
took me a while to get over the<br />
fillets of horse right next to the<br />
beef in the grocery store). So,<br />
you might be surprised to learn<br />
that Switzerland is home to the<br />
world’s oldest fully vegetarian<br />
restaurant – Hiltl has been<br />
around since 1898 and even has<br />
a veggie ‘butcher’. 119 years later,<br />
there are several branches<br />
and they’re always full. I think<br />
I ate from the buffet every week<br />
for almost 10 years. Which is<br />
probably also why I didn’t get<br />
rich earning Swiss francs – a plate<br />
piled high can cost around 25–<br />
30 CHF depending on weight,<br />
which is, um, upward of R330.<br />
Time to start saving for my next<br />
visit!” – Lee-Anne Spurdens, TASTE<br />
assistant editor; hiltl.ch<br />
“HILTL WAS A<br />
HAVEN: ENDLESS<br />
FRESH, TASTY,<br />
CREATIVE VEGGIE<br />
OPTIONS IN AN<br />
EXPAT–FRIENDLY<br />
ENVIRONMENT”
TRAVEL<br />
108<br />
GALETTES<br />
ON A PARISIAN<br />
PAVEMENT<br />
“If I could fly in a time<br />
machine instead of<br />
a plane, I’d travel to 7 October<br />
2015, just after 1 pm, to a<br />
restaurant in Paris called Crêperie<br />
Beaubourg. Here, my brand-new<br />
husband of four days, Jan, and<br />
I were sitting at a tiny pavement<br />
table, grinning like idiots while<br />
devouring our respective<br />
galettes – pancakes made with<br />
buckwheat flour, eggs, milk, salt<br />
and rum, folded into a signature<br />
square shape around savoury<br />
fillings. Jan had the compléte,<br />
filled with ham and cheese and<br />
topped with a fried egg, while<br />
I had the celte, filled with crispy<br />
lardons, onions, mushrooms,<br />
cheese and cream. Washed down<br />
with cider, and followed by crêpes<br />
sucrette (sweet pancakes), it’s<br />
easily the best meal I’ve ever<br />
had. But, then again, I’m biased.”<br />
– Annette Klinger, TASTE features<br />
writer; creperiebeaubourg.com<br />
THE KING<br />
OF CHEESES<br />
Time, patience and<br />
craftsmanship are<br />
required to craft<br />
a perfect wheel<br />
of Parmesan.<br />
On her travels through Emilia-Romagna, NIKKI WERNER<br />
discovered why making Parmigiano Reggiano is both a calling and<br />
a lifelong commitment for the region’s artisanal cheesemakers<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS BRANDON DE KOCK TEXT NIKKI WERNER<br />
“WASHED DOWN<br />
WITH CIDER,<br />
AND FOLLOWED<br />
BY CRÊPES<br />
SUCRETTE,<br />
IT’S EASILY THE<br />
BEST MEAL I’VE<br />
EVER HAD”<br />
IN THE NORTHERN ITALIAN<br />
PROVINCE OF EMILIA-ROMAGNA,<br />
Parmigiano Reggiano is referred to<br />
simply as formaggio (cheese), as if it’s<br />
universally accepted that there is only<br />
one. The choice comes with how long<br />
you like it aged: 24, 36 or 48 months. In<br />
this part of the world, Parmesan is what’s<br />
sandwiched in a standard cheese toastie,<br />
broken into hunks to pick at with fizzy<br />
wine or crumbled into risottos. Here,<br />
aged Parmesan is one of the first foods<br />
fed to babies because it’s so easy digest.<br />
The wheels of Parmesan that the<br />
Consortium of Parmigiano Reggiano<br />
Cheese deem worthy of bearing their<br />
mark are made only in Parma, Reggio<br />
Emilia, Modena, Mantua (on the east<br />
bank of the Po River) and Bologna (on<br />
the west bank of the Reno River). The
TRAVEL<br />
cows eat the grasses that grow here<br />
(no grains) and the cheese is aged for<br />
a minimum of 12 months. Ancient breeds<br />
like the vacche rosse or “red cows” produce<br />
superior milk with a good structure<br />
for longer ageing, which means a more<br />
complex flavour.<br />
Parmesan is made by hand and those<br />
who know how to make it never take<br />
a day off in their lives – they are fully<br />
dedicated to their craft. This is why<br />
husband-and-wife teams are common and<br />
why a cheese master’s son told me that he<br />
had vowed to never follow in his father’s<br />
footsteps. Making Parmigiano Reggiano<br />
truly is a vocation. To understand why,<br />
I contacted the consortium and met<br />
professional taster Igino Morini and head<br />
of the foreign office, Simone Ficarelli.<br />
We started at the dairy Caseificio Notari<br />
to observe the cheese-making process and<br />
a tutored tasting followed at their HQ<br />
in Reggio Emilia. And after spending<br />
a day with these two, no-one would ever<br />
hesitate again in the supermarket aisle<br />
when weighing up Parmesan versus<br />
a cheaper option. Here’s what Simon said<br />
on being asked why it’s worth paying for<br />
the authentic product.<br />
IT TAKES 600 LITRES OF MILK TO<br />
MAKE ONE WHEEL OF CHEESE.<br />
We fill the cauldrons with 1 200 litres of milk<br />
and from that we will get two cheeses, so<br />
already you begin to understand the price.<br />
IT’S STILL MADE IN COPPER<br />
CAULDRONS.<br />
Copper is a good heat conductor and a<br />
catalyst for the enzymes that help develop<br />
flavour. The copper vats differentiate it from<br />
industrial production and make it artisanal.<br />
IT’S MADE BY SOMEONE WHO HAS<br />
DEDICATED THEIR LIFE TO THE ART.<br />
The most amazing thing I heard during<br />
my career came from an 80-year-old<br />
cheese master. He said, “I still haven’t<br />
learnt enough because each day the cheese<br />
teaches me something.” For us the milk<br />
looks all the same – white and liquid – but<br />
the cheese master has to understand the<br />
milk because the level of fat or foaming<br />
differs, depending on whether conditions<br />
are sunny and dry or cold and humid. This<br />
changes the way the microelements behave,<br />
so it is a job that requires a high level of<br />
understanding and experience. Once the<br />
milk starts coagulating, the cheese master<br />
will increase the temperature and break up<br />
the curds into corn-sized pieces. At that<br />
point the most delicate phase begins. Using<br />
his hand, the cheese master assesses when<br />
the cheese is right and if he misses it, if<br />
it’s 30 seconds more or less or one degree<br />
more or less, it will compromise the quality<br />
of the cheese.<br />
“IN THIS PART<br />
OF THE WORLD,<br />
PARMESAN<br />
IS WHAT’S<br />
SANDWICHED<br />
IN A STANDARD<br />
CHEESE TOASTIE<br />
OR BROKEN INTO<br />
HUNKS TO PICK AT<br />
WITH FIZZY WINE”<br />
THE STARTER CAN BE UP TO<br />
900 YEARS OLD.<br />
The real heritage of our production is the<br />
whey starter. It’s left over from the previous<br />
day’s production – like the mother starter<br />
in sourdough. There are only two or three<br />
cheeses in the world that still use the<br />
naked lactiflora, all the other cheeses buy<br />
109<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS MARTINA GARDINER AND JAN CRONJE<br />
WHITEBAIT<br />
AT AN IRISH<br />
BEACH<br />
SHACK<br />
“A cone of newspaper<br />
filled with crispy<br />
deep-fried spiced<br />
whitebait – a bowl of<br />
sweet-spicy marie rose<br />
sauce on the side for<br />
dunking – the simplest<br />
of starters in the most<br />
casual of settings, but a<br />
mouthwatering highlight<br />
on a memorable<br />
foodie journey around<br />
Northern Ireland. Just<br />
looking at the photo<br />
of that whitebait (page<br />
103) takes me straight<br />
back to lunch at Harry’s<br />
Shack, a weather-beaten,<br />
no-frills eatery located<br />
in a renovated former<br />
National Trust info office<br />
right on the beach at<br />
Portstewart Strand.<br />
Massive windows offer<br />
unrivalled views across<br />
the beach to County<br />
Donegal, and it’s while<br />
taking in that vista that<br />
diners are treated to<br />
simple fare from the<br />
sea, field and garden,<br />
all prepared by awardwinning<br />
chef Derek<br />
Creagh. Formerly of<br />
legendary restaurants<br />
including the Fat Duck,<br />
he and Harry’s owner<br />
Donal Doherty have<br />
created a legendary<br />
spot of their own based<br />
on local ingredients,<br />
freshness and clean<br />
flavours. Simple and<br />
spectacular at the same<br />
time. I’d go back in<br />
a heartbeat.”<br />
– Michelle Coburn, TASTE<br />
features editor; facebook.com/<br />
HarrysShack<br />
“IT’S WHILE TAKING IN THAT VISTA<br />
THAT DINERS ARE TREATED TO<br />
SIMPLE FARE FROM THE SEA,<br />
FIELD AND GARDEN”
TRAVEL<br />
110<br />
Above, clockwise from left: These newly formed cheeses will still have to pass the hammer test; Igino Morini's most<br />
memorable Parmesan was a wheel from this cellar; Simone (left) and Igino (right) taste different ages of Parmesan.<br />
selective ferment from multinationals. So<br />
the microelements have been living for<br />
hundreds of years. If we stopped for three<br />
days we would lose this important heritage.<br />
EVERY CHEESE IS CHECKED.<br />
Since we do not use any additives, after<br />
one year our expert from the Consortium<br />
checks every cheese with a hammer. We<br />
make three million cheeses every year and<br />
each of those is checked. If it does not<br />
What’s in a name?<br />
Within the European Union the<br />
word “Parmesan” only refers<br />
to real Parmigiano Reggiano<br />
(it is classified as a Protected<br />
Designation of Origin, or PDO,<br />
product) but the same does not<br />
necessarily apply outside EU<br />
borders, where Parmesan can<br />
be used to label various similar<br />
cheeses. Authentic Parmigiano<br />
Reggiano is available at selected<br />
<strong>Woolworths</strong> stores.<br />
meet the standards, it will be discarded.<br />
On average we discard something like<br />
eight percent of production. Those<br />
that don’t pass the test will be sold to<br />
companies making sliced cheese, mixed<br />
and grated cheese. And if the cheese is<br />
good enough to be considered Parmigiano<br />
Reggiano but not perfect enough to face<br />
long ageing, we call it mezzano because<br />
it must be cut and eaten very young.<br />
IT TAKES TIME AND PATIENCE.<br />
At a glance our cheese looks the same<br />
as most industrialised products. So people<br />
say it’s expensive. If you want to annoy<br />
a producer, tell him that it’s expensive!<br />
You cannot compare an industrial<br />
product, which is ready in five minutes,<br />
with an artisanal product that takes two<br />
years. When we talk about industrialised<br />
products we can talk about costs. When we<br />
talk about the artisanal product we have to<br />
talk about value. If you think about it, to<br />
carry out this kind of production you need<br />
to have maybe 900 cows, from 1 ton of<br />
milk you get two cheeses and you have to<br />
wait two years to get your money back! W<br />
RAMEN IN<br />
BRISBANE<br />
“I make pretty damn<br />
sure I have a bowl<br />
of ramen at Hakataya<br />
Ramen every time I’m in<br />
Brisbane, which is at least once<br />
a year when I visit my sister.<br />
The dish has an emotional<br />
connection for me because we<br />
always eat it together; it’s a ritual<br />
for us. It goes something like this:<br />
‘So we have to fit in the ramen<br />
sometime, when should we do<br />
it?’ An exchange about timing<br />
breakfast and lunch usually<br />
follows, we plan our days around<br />
what and when we’re going to<br />
eat, as one should on holiday.<br />
We always have the charsiumen<br />
– Japanese pork noodle<br />
soup with extra pork (that’s<br />
important). We join the queue,<br />
take a number and wait. If we get<br />
a seat at the small bar, we watch<br />
as the chef assembles our bowls:<br />
a ladleful of a secret ingredient<br />
goes in first, then the noodles<br />
with a deft flick of the wrist, then<br />
it’s topped up with the tonkotsu,<br />
the pork bone broth that’s been<br />
cooking all night, the sliced pork<br />
and spring onions. It’s served<br />
with spicy pickled seaweed on<br />
the side. Slurping and silence<br />
ensues. And sisterly bonding,<br />
the most important part.”<br />
– Lynda Ingham-Brown, TASTE senior<br />
copy editor; hakatayaramen.com<br />
“WE ALWAYS<br />
HAVE THE<br />
CHARSIU-MEN –<br />
JAPANESE PORK<br />
NOODLE SOUP<br />
WITH EXTRA<br />
PORK (THAT’S<br />
IMPORTANT)”
A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N<br />
FROMAGE, WITH LOVE<br />
PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION FOODLOOSE PRODUCTIONS FOOD ASSISTANT CLAIRE GOODERSON<br />
Soft, spreadable goat's-milk Chavroux; mellow, soft, ripened Chaumes; rich, oozy<br />
Le Pié d'Angloys Ñ Woolies takes your French cheeseboard experience beyond Brie<br />
and Camembert with a host of authentic fromages straight from the source. To enjoy,<br />
Serving suggestion<br />
allow the creamy beauties to come to room temperature, then let each cheese's<br />
FRENCH CHEESES AND PRESERVES<br />
Arrange Woolies’ Chavroux, Chaumes,<br />
Le Pié d’Angloys, St André, Caprice des<br />
Dieux, Etorki, Fol Epi, Le Rustique Brie,<br />
Le Rustique Camembert and St Albray on<br />
a cheeseboard and allow to come to room<br />
temperature. Meanwhile, stir 1 cup frozen<br />
or fresh pitted cherries through 1 cup<br />
Woolies mixed berry preserve. Heat until<br />
jammy. Fry wafer-thin slices of celeriac in<br />
hot oil until crisp. Serve with the cheese.<br />
unique flavour profile do the talking. Oui, oui, we say!<br />
woolworths.co.za
A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N<br />
IT’S CHAI TIME<br />
The antioxidants of green tea and the warming flavours of chai? Yes please! Higher Living<br />
Infusions knows a thing or two about crafting top-notch teas (bonus: it uses only organic<br />
ingredients!), so you'd better believe that its green tea chai ticks all the boxes for a truly<br />
delicious cup. Offering a carefully balanced blend of green tea leaves, cardamom,<br />
cinnamon, clove and orange peel, it's the perfect sip to start Ñ or end Ñ the day.<br />
Available exclusively at <strong>Woolworths</strong>.<br />
higherlivingherbs.com<br />
PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION FOODLOOSE PRODUCTIONS<br />
FOOD ASSISTANT CLAIRE GOODERSON
EDITED BY LYNDA INGHAM-BROWN<br />
<strong>Taste</strong><br />
Kitchen<br />
TIPS AND<br />
TECHNIQUES<br />
FOR THE<br />
MASTER COOK<br />
PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY FOOD ASSISTANT CAMILLA REINHOLD<br />
RICE,<br />
RICE BABY<br />
We’ve all tried to make our own sushi,<br />
and mostly failed. Come on now, be honest. The basis<br />
of good sushi is good rice, which is not as terrifying as you<br />
might think. Turn the page for our definitive guide to making<br />
perfectly sticky sushi rice and you’ll soon be rolling<br />
rainbow rolls like a pro.
It’s all rice now<br />
Follow these easy steps for cooking sushi rice (no shortcuts!) and we can guarantee you’ll<br />
be hosting sushi nights at your house in no time<br />
1<br />
4 Cover and bring to a boil over<br />
a high heat. Watch the pot so that<br />
it doesn’t boil over. Reduce the heat<br />
to low as soon as it comes to a boil,<br />
and leave it to simmer for exactly<br />
20 minutes. Turn off the heat<br />
and uncover the rice.<br />
6<br />
114<br />
1 Place the uncooked rice into a large<br />
bowl. Fill the bowl with cold water,<br />
swish it around, then drain. Repeat this<br />
process until the water runs clear. This<br />
could take around ten rinses.<br />
2<br />
4<br />
6 Pour over the vinegar mixture<br />
(see opposite) and toss the rice<br />
by gently cutting into it vertically<br />
with your rice paddle (or spatula),<br />
and then lifting the rice and<br />
turning it over. As you do this,<br />
fan the rice with a fan or piece<br />
of cardboard.<br />
2 Fill the bowl one last time, then<br />
soak the rice for 30 minutes before<br />
draining it again.<br />
3 Place the rice and<br />
1½ cups cold water for<br />
every cup of uncooked<br />
rice in a large saucepan.<br />
3<br />
5<br />
5 Transfer the rice to a bamboo<br />
steamer or a large, wide glass or<br />
unvarnished wooden bowl (do not<br />
use an aluminium bowl as this will<br />
retain heat and continue cooking<br />
the rice, and can also impart<br />
a metallic taste to the rice). Use<br />
a paddle or wooden spoon to<br />
gently spread and separate the<br />
grains to help them cool.<br />
7<br />
7 Allow the rice to cool a little before<br />
starting to make your sushi. Ideally, sushi<br />
rice should be at room temperature<br />
when it is time to make your rolls.<br />
Prepared sushi rice can be stored<br />
covered with clingwrap or a moist cloth<br />
for up to 12 hours. Do not refrigerate it<br />
as this will destroy its texture.<br />
ILLUSTRATIONS ADRIAN OWEN SOURCES LAFUJIMAMA.COM, SUSHIFAQ.COM, WIKIPEDIA.COM
TASTE KITCHEN<br />
THE VINEGAR<br />
The vinegar mixture, or sushi-su,<br />
is an integral part of making sushi.<br />
It imparts a balanced sweet-sour<br />
flavour to the rice. Use ¼ to 1⁄3 cup<br />
sushi-su for 3 cups of cooked rice.<br />
rice vinegar 1 cup<br />
sugar 3 T<br />
salt 2 ½ t<br />
kombu 1 piece, about 1.5 cm square<br />
(optional)<br />
1 Combine the vinegar, sugar, salt<br />
and kombu in a small saucepan.<br />
Place the saucepan over a mediumhigh<br />
heat and cook, stirring, until<br />
the sugar and salt have dissolved.<br />
2 When the mixture is clear, remove<br />
the saucepan from the heat and set<br />
it aside to cool. Discard the kombu.<br />
3 Sushi-su can be stored in an<br />
airtight container in the refrigerator<br />
for up to 1 month.<br />
SUSHI ETIQUETTE<br />
You really shouldn’t be drowning your sushi in soya sauce or draping<br />
it with pickled ginger. But no judging … Traditionally, etiquette<br />
suggests that nigiri is turned over so that only the topping is dipped;<br />
this is because the soya sauce is for flavouring the topping, not the<br />
rice, and because the rice will absorb too much soya sauce and fall<br />
apart. If it’s difficult to turn the nigiri upside down, you can baste the<br />
sushi in soya sauce using gari (sliced ginger) as a brush. Toppings<br />
that have their own sauce (such as eel) should not be eaten with soya<br />
sauce. The sushi chef will add an appropriate amount of wasabi to the<br />
sushi while preparing it, and etiquette suggests eating the sushi as is,<br />
since the chef knows the proper amount of wasabi to use.<br />
115<br />
READY TO ROLL<br />
<strong>Woolworths</strong> sells sushi rice<br />
and everything you need<br />
to make sushi, including<br />
rolling mats, pickled ginger and<br />
nori. Sushi rice, R64.95 for 1 kg.<br />
SAY WHAT?<br />
NETA<br />
THE PIECE OF FISH<br />
THAT IS PLACED ON<br />
TOP OF THE SUSHI RICE<br />
FOR NIGIRI. “SUSHI”<br />
TECHNICALLY REFERS<br />
ONLY TO THE<br />
SEASONED RICE.
STARTER COOK<br />
Take your veggies from bland to brilliant and you (and your<br />
family) will love them even more. Think broccoli spiked with Asian<br />
flavours, smoky beans on toast and cauliflower in a cheesy frittata<br />
that’ll trump your gran’s Sunday lunch version any day<br />
Veg out,<br />
man<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS JAN RAS RECIPES AND PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY<br />
FOOD ASSISTANT CAMILLA REINHOLD
STARTER COOK<br />
117<br />
SPICY FRIED POTATO<br />
SHAKSHUKA WITH<br />
NAAN BREAD<br />
R40 PER SERVING<br />
WEEKEND LUNCH<br />
SPICY FRIED POTATO SHAKSHUKA<br />
WITH NAAN BREAD<br />
Peel, cube and parboil 500 g potatoes. Soften 2 small<br />
chopped red onions, 2 green chillies and 1 clove<br />
chopped garlic in 50–100 g butter. When caramelised,<br />
add 1 t mustard seeds. Add the potatoes and fry until<br />
golden. Add 2 x 400 g cans tomatoes, bring to a simmer<br />
and cook for 20 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and<br />
make 4 small wells in the sauce. Place a kale leaf into<br />
each well, then break 1 free-range egg into each well.<br />
Simmer for 10 minutes, or until the eggs are set. Serve<br />
with toasted naan bread. Serves 4 HEALTH-CONSCIOUS<br />
WINE: Creation Viognier 2016
STARTER COOK<br />
FUSS-FREE SIDE<br />
MAPLE-ROASTED POTATO-AND-SAGE<br />
OPEN TART<br />
Preheat the oven to 200°C. Slice 800 g assorted sweet<br />
potatoes very thinly, then toss with a handful of fresh sage,<br />
3 T olive oil and season to taste. Lay on a baking tray and<br />
bake for 15–20 minutes. Score a 2 cm border around a sheet<br />
of puff pastry, generously grate over 150 g smoked<br />
provolone or Boerenkaas and arrange the sliced potatoes<br />
on top. Scatter with fresh sage and drizzle with maple syrup.<br />
Bake for a further 30–35 minutes, or until golden and puffed<br />
up. Drizzle with a little more maple syrup to serve if you like.<br />
Serves 4 MEAT-FREE<br />
WINE: <strong>Woolworths</strong> Bellevue Pinotage 2015<br />
118<br />
VEGGIE SWAP<br />
This tart is delicious<br />
with tomato or pea<br />
soup. Swap the sweet<br />
potato for thinly sliced<br />
butternut or pumpkin<br />
if you like.<br />
MAPLE-ROASTED<br />
POTATO-AND-SAGE<br />
OPEN TART<br />
R26 PER SERVING
STARTER COOK<br />
STOCK UP ON<br />
THESE WINTER<br />
VEGGIES<br />
There’s nothing more<br />
comforting than creamy<br />
mashed potato on a cold<br />
night. And the beautiful<br />
bright green of steamed<br />
(still crunchy) Tenderstem<br />
broccoli is an instant<br />
mood-lifter. First rule<br />
of winter: don’t run out<br />
of these veggie drawer<br />
staples from Woolies<br />
MIDWEEK DINNER<br />
ASIAN-BRAISED CHICKEN AND<br />
TENDERSTEM BROCCOLI WITH RICE NOODLES<br />
Preheat the oven to 180°C. Fry 500 g <strong>Woolworths</strong> free-range chicken mince in 2 T<br />
canola oil for 5 minutes. Add 2 T grated ginger, 2 cloves grated garlic, 1 T ground<br />
black pepper and fry for a further 2 minutes. Remove from the heat. Add 2–3 cups<br />
chicken stock, 2 T soya sauce and 1 T rice wine vinegar. Return to the heat and braise<br />
for 10 minutes. Add 230 g blanched Tenderstem broccoli and braise for a further<br />
5 minutes, or until the broccoli is cooked to your liking. Serve with rice noodles,<br />
topped with sliced red chilli, fresh basil and sliced spring onions. Serves 4 FAT-<br />
CONSCIOUS, DAIRY-FREE WINE: Eagle’s Nest Viognier 2016<br />
BABY MARROWS<br />
Versatile and delicate in<br />
flavour, try them sautéed<br />
in butter or olive oil with<br />
garlic or fresh herbs.<br />
Also delicious steamed,<br />
boiled or grilled.<br />
CAULIFLOWER<br />
Roast a whole head of<br />
cauliflower in the oven,<br />
or buy the bags of florets<br />
to roast, steam, grill or<br />
boil. Chopped cauliflower<br />
rice is a great low-carb<br />
alternative to regular rice.<br />
POTATOES<br />
Take your pick from<br />
washed Everyday<br />
medium and large<br />
potatoes, to baby<br />
Mediterranean potatoes<br />
– ideal for baking,<br />
boiling, mashing<br />
or roasting.<br />
SWEET POTATOES<br />
The range includes<br />
regular sweet potatoes<br />
and Beauregard orangeflesh<br />
sweet potatoes,<br />
plus convenient diced<br />
sweet potatoes ready to<br />
boil and mash with<br />
butter and cinnamon,<br />
and sweet potato chips<br />
ready to roast and serve<br />
with home-made aïoli.<br />
TENDERSTEM BROCCOLI<br />
Available as Tenderstem<br />
broccoli stems and<br />
Tenderstem broccoli<br />
tips – lightly steam<br />
them as a crunchy side<br />
for meaty dishes. Also<br />
delicious in stir-fries.<br />
“TENDERSTEM BROCCOLI REALLY<br />
BRIGHTENS UP A DISH, ADDING<br />
WONDERFUL FRESH COLOUR AND<br />
CRUNCH” – HANNAH LEWRY<br />
ASIAN-BRAISED<br />
CHICKEN AND<br />
TENDERSTEM<br />
BROCCOLI WITH<br />
RICE NOODLES<br />
R30 PER SERVING
STARTER COOK<br />
BRUNCH IS SERVED<br />
Add a fresh green<br />
salad or dressed<br />
green beans on<br />
the side and you’re<br />
good to go.<br />
CAULIFLOWER-AND-<br />
GOAT’S CHEESE<br />
FRITTATA<br />
R34 PER SERVING<br />
120<br />
MOREISH BRUNCH<br />
CAULIFLOWER-AND-GOAT’S<br />
CHEESE FRITTATA<br />
Preheat the oven to 200°C. Mix 6 t fennel seeds, 3 t dried chilli<br />
flakes, 1 t ground black pepper, the juice and zest of 2 lemons<br />
and ¼ cup olive oil. Cut 2 heads cauliflower into steaks and<br />
coat in the marinade. Season and roast for 15 minutes until<br />
tender but still firm. Whisk 8 free-range eggs, add 1 cup cream,<br />
1 cup milk, 100 g grated Boerenkaas or Parmesan and season<br />
to taste. Place the cauliflower into an ovenproof dish, then<br />
pour over the egg mixture. Dot 150 g Boursin soft goat’s<br />
cheese or chevin onto the mixture and bake for 40 minutes<br />
at 160°C. Serves 6 CARB-CONSCIOUS, MEAT-FREE, WHEAT-<br />
AND GLUTEN-FREE WINE: Cederberg Bukettraube 2016
STARTER COOK<br />
FRIDAY SUPPER<br />
SMOKY BABY<br />
MARROWS<br />
WITH GARLICKY<br />
CANNELLINI<br />
BEANS ON TOAST<br />
Roast 1 head garlic under the<br />
grill, turning often until<br />
evenly charred and soft.<br />
Remove from the oven and<br />
cool slightly. Soften 2 thinly<br />
sliced large leeks in 50 g<br />
butter and 1 T olive oil.<br />
Squeeze out 4–6 cloves of<br />
the roast garlic into the leeks<br />
and pour in 1 cup cream. Add<br />
1 sprig rosemary, 1 x 400 g<br />
can drained cannellini beans<br />
and simmer until thick, about<br />
15 minutes. Toss 350 g sliced<br />
baby marrows in 2 T olive oil<br />
and season. Pan-fry on one<br />
side in a hot, dry pan until<br />
browned. Serve the beans on<br />
charred slices of ciabatta with<br />
the baby marrow ribbons<br />
and a squeeze of lemon juice.<br />
Serves 4 MEAT-FREE<br />
WINE: <strong>Woolworths</strong> Italian<br />
Pinot Grigio 2016<br />
FLAVOUR TIP<br />
Char baby marrows<br />
on one side to add<br />
delicious flavour.<br />
Roast the garlic in its<br />
skin for a smoky yet<br />
sweet taste that’ll<br />
elevate your dish.<br />
FARMING WITH TOMORROW IN MIND<br />
Ever wondered what the Farming for the Future<br />
logo you’ve seen in Woolies is all about? It shows<br />
that the fruit and veg you buy are farmed using<br />
methods that use water responsibly, improve soil<br />
quality and encourage biodiversity, which means<br />
you’re getting the best without it costing the Earth.<br />
SMOKY BABY MARROWS WITH<br />
GARLICKY CANNELLINI BEANS<br />
ON TOAST<br />
R29 PER SERVING
FOODSTUFF<br />
SHOPPING • INGREDIENTS • GIFTS • IDEAS<br />
SUPPER SORTED<br />
Who says midweek meals have to be uninspired? Whether it’s dinner for one or your<br />
turn to feed the family, whipping up something slightly fancier than a baked potato<br />
needn’t be a mission (or require hours of cleaning up on a school night … or any<br />
night, in fact). Woolies’ Easy to Cook range puts dinner on the table with minimal<br />
fuss and maximum flavour – and right now we’re a little obsessed with the new<br />
Easy to Cook seafood mix. A plateful of prawns, kingklip, squid and mussels in<br />
a fresh oregano and basil tomato cream sauce that’s ready in 20 minutes? Please<br />
and thank you. From R129.99. Available at selected stores.
WINTER, WHAT WINTER?<br />
There’s a new kid on the juice block and<br />
it’s so full of tropical, fruity goodness,<br />
it’s enough to kick the worst winter blues<br />
to the kerb. The latest addition to Woolies’<br />
100% fruit juice blend range – mango,<br />
passion fruit and pineapple – is loaded<br />
with vitamins and contains zero added<br />
preservatives. Bottoms up! From R16.99<br />
for 500 ml and R39.99 for 1.5 litres.<br />
Available at selected stores.<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS JAN RAS PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY TEXT LEE-ANNE SPURDENS<br />
YOGHURT, RELOADED<br />
Getting a little bored with the usual plain yoghurt routine?<br />
Woolies’ new full-cream Ayrshire vegetable-and-fruit yoghurts<br />
are guaranteed to keep things interesting, especially with<br />
flavour combos such as beetroot and strawberry, butternut<br />
and mango, and sweet potato, date and pear. They’ve got<br />
all the thick creaminess you love about Woolies’ yoghurt,<br />
are high in good-for-your-gut bifidobacterium cultures and,<br />
thanks to the veg content, all that colour is 100% natural.<br />
From R10.95. Available at selected stores.
MEAL PLANNER<br />
ON THE MENU TODAY …<br />
Warm yourself up with three comfort-food menus starring juicy<br />
roast chicken, smoky beans on toast and coffee risotto<br />
124<br />
COSY SUNDAY LUNCH<br />
Sweet potato gratin, p 34<br />
ClemenGold-glazed roast chicken, p 76<br />
Sesame banana spring rolls, p 128<br />
SUPERFOOD MENU<br />
Golden latte, p 26<br />
Smoky cannellini beans on toast, p 121<br />
Buttermilk rye crêpes Suzette, p 74<br />
WINTER BRUNCH<br />
Coffee risotto, p 64<br />
Potato-and-sage open tart, p 118<br />
Biksemad, p 96
A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N<br />
PHOTOGRAPH WILLEM LOURENS PRODUCTION<br />
HANNAH LEWRY ASSISTANT JALAUN BEUKES<br />
PERFECT PORK<br />
Succulent, tender and versatile, <strong>Woolworths</strong>' top-quality South African pork comes into<br />
its own in a sosatie spread featuring three delectable flavour combinations<br />
woolworths.co.za<br />
Serving suggestion<br />
PORK SOSATIES<br />
THREE WAYS<br />
STICKY CURRY<br />
Marinate cubed pork leg or<br />
shoulder in 3 T mild curry<br />
powder, ¼ cup olive oil, 3 T<br />
fruit chutney, 2 sprigs rosemary<br />
and 1 clove crushed garlic.<br />
Thread onto soaked skewers,<br />
alternating with dried apricots,<br />
butternut and streaky bacon,<br />
before braaiing or roasting.<br />
ASIAN<br />
Marinate cubed pork leg or<br />
shoulder in 3 T oyster sauce,<br />
2 T soya sauce, 1 T canola oil,<br />
2 cloves crushed garlic and<br />
2 finely chopped spring<br />
onions. Thread onto soaked<br />
skewers, alternating with<br />
yellow peppers and baby<br />
marrow ribbons before<br />
braaiing.<br />
HONEY AND MUSTARD<br />
Marinate cubed pork leg or<br />
shoulder in 6 T wholegrain<br />
mustard, 2 T runny honey,<br />
3 T white wine and a few sprigs<br />
of thyme. Thread onto soaked<br />
skewers, alternating with exotic<br />
mushrooms and mixed onions<br />
such as red and spring onions,<br />
before braaiing or roasting.<br />
Available at selected <strong>Woolworths</strong><br />
stores – ask your <strong>Woolworths</strong><br />
butcher to cut 2.5-cm cubes from<br />
pork leg or shoulder.
INDEX<br />
126<br />
STARTERS AND LIGHT MEALS<br />
Biksemad ........................................................................96<br />
Cauliflower-and-brinjal tart ...............................22<br />
Cauliflower-and-goat’s cheese frittata ...120<br />
Potato aloo sarmies ................................................34<br />
Pav bhaji .........................................................................96<br />
Pumpkin fritters ........................................................42<br />
Smoky baby marrows with garlicky<br />
cannellini beans on toast ................................121<br />
Smoky maple-espresso baked beans ........66<br />
Spicy fried potato shakshuka with naan<br />
bread .............................................................................117<br />
MAIN MEALS<br />
Asian-braised chicken and Tenderstem<br />
broccoli with rice noodles ..............................119<br />
Beef fillet with café au lait sauce ...................69<br />
Caramelised orange-and-fennel<br />
mussels ..........................................................................79<br />
Citrus-braised shortrib with chilli, lime and<br />
green tomato salsa ...............................................74<br />
Fish tacos with one-minute lime<br />
mayonnaise and pink grapefruit ..................76<br />
Jerk chicken, rice and peas .............................100<br />
Maple-roasted potato-and-sage<br />
open tart .....................................................................118<br />
One-pot chicken baked on dhal ...................22<br />
Sticky ClemenGold-glazed roast chicken<br />
with pumpkin wedges .......................................76<br />
The gatsby .................................................................100<br />
DESSERTS AND BAKING<br />
Buttermilk rye crêpes Suzette with<br />
clementines .................................................................74<br />
Cinnamon doughnuts with coffee royal<br />
icing .................................................................................65<br />
Coffee îles flottantes ................................................64<br />
Coffee jelly ....................................................................30<br />
Coffee risotto................................................................64<br />
Daigaku imo ................................................................96<br />
Lemon-curd lava puddings ..................................<br />
..............................................................................................76<br />
Mocha in a cone ......................................................70<br />
Sesame banana spring rolls with salted<br />
caramel sauce ........................................................128<br />
The impossible custard tart ..............................22<br />
SIDE SERVINGS<br />
Mexican-style sweet potatoes .......................34<br />
Sticky roast carrots in barley broth ..............24<br />
Sweet potato gratin .............................................34<br />
BEVERAGES<br />
ClemenGold sake toddy ....................................58<br />
Golden latte with black pepper<br />
and maple syrup .....................................................26<br />
COMPETITION TERMS AND CONDITIONS<br />
The winners will be the first correct entries drawn after the closing date. In the event of the judges not being able to get hold of the selected<br />
winner on contact details supplied, an alternative winner will be selected. The judges’ decision is final and no correspondence will be entered<br />
into. The prize is not transferable and may not be converted into cash. Employees of <strong>Woolworths</strong>, New Media Publishing and the prize<br />
sponsor company, their families, agencies or any other parties associated with the competition may not enter. All details correct at time<br />
of going to print. Note that some expenses may not be included in the prize. Visit taste.co.za for prize-specific information and terms and<br />
conditions. Entry is limited to South African residents over the age of 18.<br />
COMPETITION AND GIVEAWAY ENTRY DETAILS<br />
To enter, SMS the word “TASTE” followed by the keyword on the giveaway or competition page (and the answer, if applicable), your name,<br />
surname, email address, physical address and telephone number to 45606 (R1.50 per SMS), or enter online at taste.co.za. Unless otherwise<br />
specified, the closing date for all giveaways and competitions in this issue is 23 <strong>July</strong> <strong>2017</strong>. Terms and conditions apply, see above.<br />
CONVERSION CHART<br />
250 ml = 1 cup<br />
190 ml = ¾ cup<br />
125 ml = ½ cup<br />
85 ml = ¹⁄3 cup<br />
65 ml = ¼ cup<br />
5 ml = 1 teaspoon<br />
15 ml = 1 tablespoon<br />
30 ml = 2 tablespoons<br />
45 ml = 3 tablespoons<br />
60 ml = 4 tablespoons<br />
* <strong>Woolworths</strong> products featured are subject to availability and may not be available at all stores. All prices include VAT and were correct at the time of going to press.<br />
Offers available while stocks last. Not all products and ingredients featured are available from <strong>Woolworths</strong>. While all precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy<br />
of information, neither the publisher and editor, nor New Media Publishing, can be held liable for any inaccuracies, injuries or damages that may arise.
One of the greatest challenges for human<br />
wellbeing in the 21st century will be to focus<br />
on the advantage of having a healthy colon and<br />
therefore a good immune system – this is where<br />
probiotics can play a significant role.<br />
Probiotics are critical for normal digestion<br />
and for defence against infection.<br />
Bacteria in the gut are known to:<br />
• Stimulate the immune system<br />
• Enhance the mucosal barrier<br />
• Aid digestion and break down toxins<br />
• Inhibit adherence of pathogens<br />
A good probiotic can be beneficial in the<br />
following ailments:<br />
• Diarrhoea or constipation<br />
• Bad breath, gas and bloating<br />
• Irritable bowel and lactose intolerance<br />
• Gastroenteritis and playschool diseases in<br />
young children
SIMPLE PLEASURES<br />
GO BA-NA-NAS!<br />
Try this sweet twist on the classic spring roll – bananas deep-fried<br />
in crispy pastry, then drizzled in a rich salted caramel sauce (add Madagascan<br />
vanilla ice cream on the side … if you dare!)<br />
PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS RECIPE AND PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY<br />
FOOD ASSISTANT CAMILLA REINHOLD<br />
SESAME BANANA<br />
SPRING ROLLS<br />
WITH SALTED<br />
CARAMEL SAUCE<br />
Serves 8<br />
A LITTLE EFFORT<br />
GREAT VALUE<br />
Preparation: 30 minutes<br />
Cooking: 20 minutes<br />
128<br />
canola oil 2 cups<br />
small bananas 8, halved<br />
spring roll wrappers 8, halved<br />
desiccated coconut 100 g<br />
sesame seeds 2 T, toasted<br />
For the caramel sauce:<br />
sugar 200 g<br />
butter 100 g<br />
cream ¼ cup<br />
black salt or sea salt flakes, to taste<br />
1 Heat the oil in a saucepan, then<br />
wrap the bananas in the pastry. Fry<br />
until golden brown on one side,<br />
then turn and cook on the other<br />
side. Remove from the oil using<br />
a slotted spoon, drain on kitchen<br />
paper and sprinkle with the coconut<br />
and sesame seeds. 2 To make the<br />
caramel sauce, place the sugar into<br />
a pan over a medium heat and melt.<br />
When slightly caramelised, add the<br />
butter and mix until melted and<br />
combined. Bring to a gentle simmer,<br />
then remove from the heat and stir<br />
in the cream. Sprinkle over the salt.<br />
Set aside to cool slightly and drizzle<br />
over the spring rolls.<br />
WINE: Hilton Viognier 2016<br />
WORD ON THE STREET<br />
Turon are a Filipino street-food snack of sliced bananas and a slice of jackfruit sprinkled<br />
with brown sugar and deep-fried in a spring roll wrapper, sometimes drizzled with syrup<br />
and served with a coconut sauce. Trying this at home? Use mango instead of jackfruit.
Y&R1507992<br />
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Calacatta<br />
Cape Town : 2 Highway Park, Northgate Estate • Tel: 021 510 8130<br />
Midrand: 324 Old Pretoria Road, Halfway House • Tel: 011 312 4060<br />
Sandton / Randburg: 20 Rhodes Street • Tel: 011 781 4888<br />
Umhlanga: Urban Park Hotel, 60 Meridian Drive • Tel: 031 566 3412<br />
Durban: 1322 South Coast Rd, Mobeni • Tel: 031 462 7722<br />
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Ghana: 34 Spintex Rd, Accra • Tel: +233 207 591 313