Vinexpo Daily - Review Edition

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REVIEW EDITION

FRIDAY 30 TH JUNE 2017

DAILY

COMING SOON

THE UNITED STATES

EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW

Peter Gago

Chief Winemaker – Penfolds

THIS IS A GREAT, GREAT VENUE FOR

TALKING ABOUT THE WORLD OF COMMERCE,

THE WORLD OF WINE EDUCATION, AND SO

MANY OTHER THINGS. Read page 17

SECRETS TO SUCCESS

VINEXPO OPENS THE GATES

TO NEW YORK AND THE WORLD’S

BIGGEST MARKETPLACE

Page 4

SPECIAL FEATURE: SPIRITS

HEADY SCENTS… THE HEART AND SOUL

OF MIXOLOGY! Read page 20

TRADE TALK

Gérard Margeon

Executive Wine Director – Alain Ducasse Enterprises

THERE IS ALSO A LOT OF INTEREST

IN COOL, REFRESHING OCEAN WINES,

WHERE THERE IS THE INFLUENCE OF THE SEA

Read page 14


EDITORIAL

Richard Barnes

Editor-in-chief

A TIME FOR

FEDERATION

In his closing remarks after the 2017 edition

of Vinexpo Bordeaux, the organisation’s CEO

Guillaume Deglise mentioned several aspects

of this year’s show that made it stand out from

previous ones. But the one that seemed to really

underline the sentiment felt throughout the four

days of the event was that of “federation”.

While some might argue that the key purpose

of a trade show is in any case to bring people

together, it might seem that the word federation

is totally evident and perhaps not even

necessary as a descriptive term. But walking

the show floor, watching the conference

sessions and tastings, witnessing the peripheral

events and listening to the banter at the press

bar, it became obvious that perhaps now,

more than ever, the wine and spirits worlds are

coming together as one – not so much in terms

of globalisation (although that is true, too), but

more in terms of understanding, friendships,

partnerships and trust.

All those who attended Vinexpo 2017 have

grown a little closer together – thanks to Mr

Deglise and his team. We look forward to

seeing this “big family” again next year – in

Hong Kong, New York and Tokyo!

VINEXPO:

KEY TRENDS

IN 2017

Organisation CEO Guillaume Deglise

looks back at a great vintage

Vinexpo Bordeaux closed its gates on the evening of Wednesday

21 st June after four days of intense meetings and tastings. 2,300

exhibitors from 40 countries took advantage of the international

wine and spirits show to meet buyers, sign contracts, discover

new developments and develop their business networks. We

asked Vinexpo CEO Guillaume Deglise what he saw as being

the key trends as this year’s show.

Three strong trends stand out. The

first is the quality of visitors and the

strong presence of international

decision-makers, noticeable by

the quality of the exhibitors and

amplified by the service of the oneto-wine

meetings set up by Vinexpo.

Well over 2,000 appointments,

planned in advance, were

targeted, constructive and allowed

participants to sign numerous

distribution contracts. Our goal was

to further strengthen the qualitative

positioning of our visitors, and I

can say today that we won our bet.

This required a thorough fieldwork,

we went to meet the buyers on the

different markets, we invested in

communication on the key markets

and we strengthened the checking

process for accreditations. In the

months preceding the show, we

went out to meet the buyers in Asia,

the USA, Northern Europe and so

on.

It’s just the beginning in our efforts

to propose supplementary services,

which is one of our primary

objectives henceforth. Vinexpo no

longer situates itself simply as a

simple “trade show organiser”. We

have a bigger role to play in the

overall process, which is to assist

our exhibitors to find new markets

and clients.

Buyers from more than 150

countries showed that the

distribution stemming from the show

is now planetary and that the

Vinexpo brand remains the global

benchmark for finding new markets

and expanding its network.

France remains the first visitor

country, followed by China and

the United States. The signing

during the show of the partnership

between Vinexpo and TMall.com

(Alibaba group) will strengthen

Vinexpo’s position in China and

enable it to develop its reputation

throughout this vast territory. It

gives a real boost to the show

and indeed to the Vinexpo brand.

It will give us much more visibility

in China. It will also enable

Alibaba to inform professionals

and consumers about the wine

festival they plan to launch on

9th September each year. France

will be the country of honour this

year.

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@ Jean-Bernard Nadeau

Guillaume

Deglise

CEO, Vinexpo

QUESTION MARK

OVER SHOW DATE

Guillaume Deglise announced

that the date of the next show in

Bordeaux in two years’ time may well

not be in June.

The launch of Vinexpo New York

in March 2018 will also help to

develop Vinexpo’s attractiveness

to Americans. The American

distribution scenario is changing,

and this will create numerous

opportunities for exhibitors in

what remains the number one

marketplace in the world.

China and the USA are markets

that are in constant progression,

so it’s normal that we have seen

an increase in buyers coming from

these places, while in Europe,

where the market is mature, and

the consumption levels are not

rising overall, there is a very strong

interest for innovation and new

trends.

The second trend was Vinexpo’s

capacity as a “federator” for

all players in the market. Major

international brands, family

companies, small winegrowers

and regional or national pavilions

were widely represented and all

expressed their enthusiasm.

This year, our decision to create

a new offering to smaller-scale

producers – with six square metre

booths in Hall 3 – met with great

success. It’s a sign of the times,

as many international buyers

are looking for smaller “niche”

suppliers, and that’s what we

brought to the show this year.

The grouping of producers allowed

professional visitors to rediscover

the Tre Bicchieri of the Gambero

Rosso guide, to taste the 2016

vintage of the Union of the Grands

Crus of Bordeaux or the Rieslings

from Germany to Australia.

BY ORGANISING CONFERENCES

ON THE IMPACT OF CLIMATE CHANGE

ON VITICULTURE, ISSUES RELATED TO

BREXIT OR THE GROWING WEIGHT OF

E-COMMERCE, VINEXPO DEMONSTRATED

ITS COMMITMENT TO ITS CLIENTS TO

RESPOND TO THE MAJOR TOPICAL POLICY

ISSUES.

The Institute of Masters of Wine

was more present than ever as

well as the representatives of world

gastronomy through famous chefs

and sommeliers.

Vinexpo has also managed to

surround itself with the great

specialists, such as Michel Bettane

and Thierry Desseauve, to develop

a new and more open offer for

niche products, and key media

such as Wine Spectator, Terre de

vins, the Drinks Business or la Revue

du Vin de France. This “federation”

also applies to an approach that

was better adapted to the different

needs of exhibitors today. The

new space dedicated to organic

wines, WOW! (World of organic

wines) is a perfect example, and its

success exceeds our expectations.

The tastings, each as interesting

and rewarding as the other, were

another way of federating people

at the Vinexpo academy and on the

stands.

The third key trend is the successful

promise of information rich content.

By organising conferences on

the impact of climate change on

viticulture, issues related to Brexit or

the growing weight of e-commerce,

Vinexpo demonstrated its

commitment to its clients to respond

to the major topical policy issues.

The programme was particularly

rich this year.

The Riesling day allowed us to focus

on this international grape variety

on Tuesday, June 20th. Five masters

of wine gave their views on French,

German, American, Australian and

Austrian Rieslings.

Hall Three was a big success,

as we decided to place as many

“novelties” as possible this year,

along with most of the major

conferences and tastings, and it

was a wager that paid off. You may

remember that two years ago, most

of the conferences were held at

the convention centre on the other

side of the lake. With this year’s hot

weather, it was a very good thing

that the conference-goers be able

COUNTRY OF

HONOUR 2017

to stay within the halls! •

SPAIN –

This year, we had extreme conditions that were

difficult for everyone. The air conditioning held

out nevertheless, but it wasn’t easy, and due to

this, I believe we will have to change the date

for the next edition. We will be examining the

question, with the aim of finding a date that will

enable exhibitors and visitors to work in more

pleasant conditions. This decision will be taken

in concert with the management of the Parc

des Expositions and the city council. We will be

making an announcement in the next months as

to the date that will be agreed upon for the next

edition.

I think it was a smart move for

Vinexpo to have a country of honour

of that size, and the quality of the

events that were organised was

exceptional. The highlight was

“A Taste of Spain” held on Monday

night – with more than 1,300

attendees – and 110 bodegas.

We had all the top Spanish

producers there on that evening.

I believe it was the best event on

Spanish wines that has ever been

organised outside of Spain, and this

is what we really hoped to achieve.

VINEXPO DAILY / REVIEW EDITION / FRIDAY 30 TH JUNE 3


NEWS

Steve Raye

President, Bevology

7 Keys to Success

in the US

Vinexpo Bordeaux conference outlines secrets

to entering the complex American market

To make it in the US you have to

be sharp, dynamic, different, super

creative and know the market

inside out, and even then, you

only stand a minimal chance of

getting your product listed by your

chosen retailer or operator. That

was the stark conclusion given by

Steve Raye, who runs his own wine

broking, marketing and consultancy

business, Bevology, to help wine

producers find a foothold or widen

distribution in the US. Speaking at

Vinexpo last week, Raye picked out

seven key factors for entering the US

market:

1/ DO YOUR HOMEWORK

The US drinks distribution network

is complicated and hard to fathom

to outsiders. Its three-tier system has

been set up to ensure each state

is able to manage and control its

own drinks industry. But within that,

there are state-by-state differences

that make the whole process even

more complicated. There are 18

controlled states, where drinks

distribution is handled by the state

and sold through its drinks stores, and

33 open states where it is organised

by independent distributors. It’s vital,

stressed Raye, that producers work

hand in hand with a US consultancy

or broking business to act as their

mouth and ears on the ground.

2/ UNDERSTANDING

THE THREE-TIER SYSTEM

Before getting in to the detail of how

different states operate, you have to

understand how the three-tier system

operates, meaning you have to first

find an importer willing to take your

product in the first place. It is only

through an importer that you can

access the all-important distributors

and wholesalers that are then going

to market your wines to supermarkets,

liquor stores, restaurants or bars.

3/ IT’S ALL ABOUT

RELATIONSHIPS

When it comes to cracking the US,

it’s not just how good your product

is; it’s who you know, and what they

can do for you. Only 10 distributors

control 73% of all products sold in

the US, and they’re inundated with

thousands of product requests every

year, so you need to know the right

people in the right places.

4/WHAT’S IN IT

FOR THEM

Don’t approach a US importer

or distributor with your tried and

trusted story about how long you’ve

been making wine or how unique

your terroir is. That is the window

dressing. To get a seat at the table

you have to think like an importer

or distributor. What can you offer

them that is going to excite them,

make their lives easier and want to

list you?

5/ BE CREATIVE

That means being genuinely different

from all the other wines or products

in your category. Not necessarily

in the way it is made, but how it is

marketed, promoted, what key trend

is it addressing. You have to be

more creative than the last producer

to walk through a distributor’s doors.

6/ E-COMMERCE CAN CRACK

THE MARKET FOR YOU

With such a closed traditional

distribution route to market, the

new e-commerce industry is

“changing the landscape” in the

US, said Raye, opening the doors

to imported wines. While there

are 23% of imported wines in the

overall market, they make up 53%

of e-commerce sales.

7/ INFLUENCE THE INFLUENCERS

It is why wine apps and wine review

platforms like Vivino and Wine

Searcher are so important in the US.

You can create your own section on

Vivino, list all your wines and tell

your back story direct to millions

of, say, potential Vivino customers

looking to cut through the system to

find the wines they want •

VINEXPO

ANNOUNCES

MAJOR EVENT

FOR NEW YORK

IN 2018

March 5-6, 2018, Vinexpo New

York will host exhibitors from all

wine-producing regions around the

globe to the world’s largest wineconsuming

market. Vinexpo New

York will be open exclusively to the

national trade. Targeted visitors

are importers, distributors, retailers,

brokers, e-commerce, on-trade

buyers and sommeliers. Held in

the Javits Center’s, glass-enclosed

River Pavilion, Vinexpo New York

will feature two days of business

meetings, tastings, conferences,

master classes and networking

events. Its exhibition will showcase

the newest wines and spirits

introduced to the US market.

4 VINEXPO DAILY / REVIEW EDITION / FRIDAY 30 TH JUNE


Introducing a Revolutionary

New Buyers’ Networking Club

Vinexpo Explorer brings top 100 buyers together at inaugural

Austrian event

Vinexpo is making further

strides to differentiate itself from

other international trade shows

by launching a new initiative,

Vinexpo Explorer.

The new initiative will bring

together the world’s Top 100 wine

and spirit buyers at key networking

events in emerging and trending

wine countries.

In a nutshell, the new initiative will

see Vinexpo identify who it sees

as being the most influential and

important wine and spirits buyers

across all the major export markets.

It will then invite them to attend twoday

Explorer events in key, up and

coming wines and spirits regions or

countries of the world.

The initiative is all part of the trade

show’s commitment to offer the

global wine and spirits industry

more than a bi-annual event

in Bordeaux, supported by

exhibitions in Hong Kong, Tokyo

and New York. Vinexpo Explorer

very much encapsulates its desire

to introduce measures designed to

bring producers and key buyers

together to help them work better

together and ultimately do business.

The first Vinexpo Explorer event will

take place in Austria on September

11-12 thanks to a new link up

with Austrian Wine.

But beforehand it has set itself quite

a task. Just who do you include

in such an illustrious list and do

you not risk putting some pretty

prominent noses out of joint by not

including them in your first Top 100

list? With so many key markets and

buyers to choose from, it is going

to be fascinating to see who makes

the final cut.

But Vinexpo’s chief executive,

Guillaume Deglise, believes this

new “revolutionary approach” is

needed to help bring buyers and

producers closer together.

It will take buyers from mixed

retail backgrounds and encourage

them to swap ideas, and share

experiences and insights. Be they

a Scandinavian monopoly,

a multinational hotel group, major

supermarket chain or restaurant

group. The final selection of

buyers will, he says, reflect

the “complexity” of the wine and

spirits trade.

“We want to create a community of

buyers and it is also a chance for

us to get to know our buyers better,”

said Deglise.

The list of 100 buyers will be

tweaked year from year to suit the

nature of the event being held.

The inaugural trip to Austria in

September, for example, will

be exclusively wine buyers to

work with the programme being

devised by Austrian Wine and its

managing director, Willi Klinger.

Klinger sees this first event being

an enormous opportunity to translate

growing interest in Austrian wines

in to hard sales over the coming

years. “It’s great exposure for

us and a chance to transport the

image of Austrian wine into sales,”

he said.

Klinger hopes the event will help its

three year strategy to grow Austria’s

global exports from around €150m

a year to nearer €200m.

The Vinexpo Explorer events

will be backed up by further

buyer networking opportunities

both at Vinexpo Bordeaux and

its sister events in Hong Kong,

Tokyo and New York.

The two-day Explorer events

are designed to give buyers the

chance to take part in one to one

meetings with producers and taste

special wines and spirits from the

host country not possible on any

normal trade visit.

They will also include business

workshops in which buyers will be

expected to work in small groups

with their fellow buyers to discuss

and analyse key trading issues for

the host country or region and then

feedback their conclusions to the

wider group.

Vinexpo will use its database

and knowledge of the global

buying scene to identify the top

100 buyers to invite.

Guillaume Deglise says it is too

early to say where future events

will be held but said it was an

ideal vehicle to take buyers to

explore the whisky distilleries of

Scotland or the wineries of Oregon

or Swartland in South Africa.

The key will be to offer buyers

“intimate contact with producers

from all over the world” •

Willi Klinger

Managing Director,

Austrian Wine

WE WANT TO CREATE A

COMMUNITY OF BUYERS AND IT IS

ALSO A CHANCE FOR US TO GET TO

KNOW OUR BUYERS BETTER

VINEXPO DAILY / REVIEW EDITION / FRIDAY 30 TH JUNE 5


NEWS

© Phillippe Labeguerie

UK & EU Wine Leaders Unite

in Call For a “Free Trade Brexit”

Vinexpo debate sets out best and worst-case scenarios for wine industry

following the UK’s exit from the EU

The UK and EU might be going through

a public, and hopefully not too painful,

divorce, but behind the scenes, British

and European wine bodies are very

much united in trying to ensure there is as

little fall out as possible from Brexit.

That was very much the underlying

message from last week’s Vinexpo Brexit

debate, held on the second day of

formal UK and EU negotiations taking

part in Brussels.

Although the talks are at the earliest of

stages, it was clear from the panel that

the hopes of a trouble-free Brexit have

been raised.

Both Miles Beale, chief executive of the

Wine & Spirits Trade Association in the

UK and Jean Marie Barillère, president

of the CEEV, representing the interests of

EU wine companies and bodies, were

united in the view that they would like

to see “as little change as possible” to

current trading arrangements from any

Brexit deal.

“We want to see trade as free and as

unrestricted as possible,” stressed Beale.

Barillère hoped the Brexit talks would be

as much of a “non-event” as possible.

They are certainly doing all they can

between their respective bodies to present

the case to the UK government and EU that

a continued free trade agreement was in

everyone’s interests. Both the WSTA and

CEEV, and other relevant world trade

bodies, were also working on creating a

potential “blueprint” for how future trading

could work post-Brexit that governments

could quickly implement.

Beale said news from the UK government

that Chancellor Philip Hammond would

welcome a transitional period for future

trade deals to be done after the UK leaves

the EU means a phased implementation

is now more likely. “It is the first time we

have heard that and it’s a significant

step,” added Beale.

It would effectively mean the UK leaving

the EU in March 2019, then having the

needed time to agree a EU trade deals,

the UK then leaving the Customs Union,

followed by the opportunity for the UK to

then negotiate bilateral trade deals with

non-EU countries.

That would then give the industry anything

between two, three, five or more years to

carry on as normal and prepare for any

subsequent trade deals to be done. “That

is the best for the business community to

deal with,” he said.

Andrew Shaw, group wine buying

director at Conviviality, the biggest

wine distributor in the UK, said it was

vital a “roadmap” could be established,

which businesses could then follow in

order to get some “sustainability” back

into to their decision making. It was the

“uncertainty” that has gripped the wine

market since the EU referendum that was

so hard for a business like Conviviality to

have “clarity” on its future strategy. “We

need future trade to be as simple and

effective as it is now,” said Shaw.

Sean Allison, owner of Bordeaux’s

Château de Seuil, said it was vital both

sides took a “pro-active approach”

to maintain “security in the economy”

and ensure the UK does not start losing

foreign investment.

Whilst the big changes and falls in

currency rates post the EU referendum

have only added to that insecurity,

they only account for 1% to 3% of the

overall costs and it was still inflationary

pressures and duty and VAT that were the

“dominant factors” that the wine trade

has to face up to, stressed Shaw. Beale

confirmed that UK inflation in the past

year has seen a 3% increase on wine

prices compared to 1% in the previous

two years.

Vinexpo chief executive Guillaume

Deglise says it’s very much in the interests

of the global wine industry that there

should be no future “unfavourable trade

deals”, and that Vinexpo is very much

in support of the UK wine and spirits

industry. “The UK is in the top two of

countries’ wine exports and the trading

power of UK wine buyers is formidable,”

he said •

6 VINEXPO DAILY / REVIEW EDITION / FRIDAY 30 TH JUNE


François Adamski

with his team of

apprenticies

Adamski Reveals Air France

Menus at Vinexpo Soirée

The Michelin-starred Chef, François

Adamski was present at Vinexpo at

a private evening organised by Air

France for some of its top customers

and partners.

Adamski having received a Michelin Star

in Bordeaux, and another in Bourges,

Meilleur Ouvrier de France (2007) and

Bocuse d’Or (2001), now creates menus

for major restaurants in the South-West.

His dishes invite all Air France Business

customers to enjoy his culinary skills:

cuisine without pomp and ceremony,

which tastes just right and is always

surprising.

Since October 2015, Adamski, has

been working with Servair and Air

France in the long and medium-haul

Business cabins. In keeping with his

commitments, the Michelin-starred

Chef is also the president of the French

Bocuse d’Or team, an association that

supports the French candidate, of which

Air France and Servair are Premium

partners.

At Vinexpo Bordeaux, he revealed the

six new dishes to enhance the pleasure

of Air France Business customers on

board long-haul and medium-haul flights

departing from Paris.

They will be, in July:

Roast chicken thigh, curry risotto and

chorizo,

Lightly smoked shrimps, coloured

vegetable balls and creamy lemon

sauce.

In August:

Slow-cooked beef with creamy tomato

sauce, mashed potatoes with green

olives,

Roast chicken fillet with supreme truffle

sauce, carrots, celery and mushrooms.

In September:

Candied lamb shoulder, semolina with

baby vegetables, preserved lemon,

Cod with meat jus, crumble with

hazelnuts, parsnips, celery, chestnuts.

According to Adamski, there are a

number of constraints when it comes to

concocting menus for in-flight dining: “The

first is products; we can’t use all products.

We also have to respect a certain

cooking temperature so as not to have

problems with bacteria. Then the most

important problem is that of re-heating.

We work upstream in the kitchen, and

then there are the cabin crew who have

to re-heat the food. And it’s this re-heating

that is the most complicated stage. We

can feel that Air France, with their rise

in quality, is training its staff as it should.

There is a will to ‘do the right thing’ and

that’s a very good thing.”

As all French gastronomy tends to be

just as visual as it is tasty, this is another

challenge. “In Business Class, we are

working plate by plate in a spirit of

‘plating’, where, in some aircraft, the

plates are dressed in-situ. The staff are

trained by experts at Servair in this

respect. This was already the case in La

Première, but now we can also find this

in Business Class.”

PAOLO BASSO – SOMMELIER FOR AIR FRANCE –

WORKING WITH BETTANE+DESSEAUVE ON WINE LIST

Since September 2014, Air France has

been entrusting the elaboration of its

wine list to Paolo Basso, elected best

sommelier of the world in 2013. He

collaborates with bettane+desseauve,

authors of the Great Guide of French

wines in the first and business cabins.

Associating the intimate knowledge

of the French vineyards of

bettane+desseauve with Paolo Basso’s

expertise as a taster allows Air France

to offer a selection of exceptional

quality: a journey through the regions

of France and the prestigious domains.

In business, the new wine menu is

innovative, highlighting the diversity of

the French vineyard, with renowned

labels, for example Médoc Château

Rollan de By 2009. The discoveries

also have their place and the favorites

of Paolo Basso are in the spotlight.

The first cabin focuses on the excellence

of the French Vineyard, in particular

its major regions (champagne and

Bordeaux with renowned labels,

but also Burgundy, Rhone Valley).

Champagne Krug Grande

Cuvée, Saint-Emilion 1 st

Grand Cru classified Chateau

Beau-Séjour Kiss 2008, etc.

bettane+desseauve and Paolo

Basso select the best areas and

the most exclusive properties,

in vintages adapted to the

consumption on board.

Every year, one and a half million large

bottles of wine, including eight hundred

thousand bottles of champagne, are

served aboard Air France flights •

Paolo Basso

Best Sommelier

of the World in 2013

VINEXPO DAILY / REVIEW EDITION / FRIDAY 30 TH JUNE 7


NEWS

Napa Winemakers

on a Quality

Conquest of

Europe

Forty winemakers from

California’s Napa Valley were

exhibiting at Vinexpo Bordeaux

last week, on a mission to change

perception of the region’s wines.

They spearheaded the 525

wine makers grouped in the

association of Napa Vintners.

The group seeks to distance

Napa Valley wines from the rest

of California and drive home to

the thousands of European and

Asian buyers at the fair how

Napa Valley wines are subtler,

more nuanced and capable of

quality ageing.

Setting themselves apart, the

Napa Vintners thus had their

own pavilion, close to, but apart

from, the main California wines

booths.

Dana Osbourne, international

marketing manager, for Napa

Valley Vintners says that 150

years of tradition have resulted

in wines of the highest quality,

cultivated in one of the most

extraordinary places in the

world.

A three-year plan is in place to

change perceptions of Napa

vines so that they are seen to be

of distinct quality from California

A GRAND CRU OF… WATER

France is the world’s #1 exporter of mineral

water, and for the second time running,

Abatilles was designated as Vinexpo’s

Official Water in 2017, a partnership that

gives the brand worldwide visibility.

Indeed, after decades of being

underestimated, “premium waters” have

gained recognition as an indispensable

component of gastronomic meals. Like

wine, they are increasingly tantalising the

curiosity and appetite of consumers, who

can now appeal to a growing population of

specialists, such as water sommeliers, to find

out more and enjoy all the subtleties of these

very sought-after waters.

At the same time as enjoying a strong

regional position with national ramifications,

while Abatilles made its first steps towards

international recognition at Vinexpo 2015

- now exported to supply a dozen markets,

Vinexpo 2017 enabled Abatilles to develop

its outlook and do business with another ten

targeted countries •

wines in general. The plan will

explain why quality means that

prices may be higher, ranging

from $22 to as much as $225

a bottle and while quantities

available will be lower.

In contrast to their reputation,

production is small. Napa

produces only 4% of the total

California wine harvest; on

a global stage that accounts

for only four tenths of world

production.

Dana says that there is clear

evidence from media reaction

around the world that the

Napa strategy is working. “The

messages coming all sectors of

the media, bloggers and social

media emphasise quality. People

are beginning to understand

why Napa Valley wines are

The estate of the Dampt brothers, located

different.”

between Chablis and Tonnerre in the Yonne,

Not least, Napa Valley Vintners

offers, among other things, a beautiful

have a new generation of wine

palette of wines from the three valleys of the

drinkers in their sights. “There is

Yonne.

a new generation in Europe that

wants to venture outside their old

experiences” •

A TOUR OF THE YONNE –

WITH LE DOMAINE DAMPT FRÈRES

From the valley of the Armançon, the Tonnere

Burgundy and the Epineuil Burgundy will

sharpen one’s taste buds at aperitif time.

From the Yonne valley, Emmanuel and Eric

propose an Irancy village wine.

Following along the Serein valley, a little

Chablis born on the plateaus, as well as the

Chablis from the slopes and to crown the

lot, five Chablis Premier cru “Barbu”, “Les

Stoves”, “Vaucoupin”, “Mont de milieu”,

“Fourchaume”, as well as two rare Chablis

Grand cru «Bougros» which possesses a

particularly sharpened minerality, and “Les

Preuses” with a chalkier structure.

Eric and Emmanuel Dampt have been

working their vines in a “reasoned struggle”

since the creation of the estate in the

1980s and say they wish to pass on their

knowledge and the love of their terroir to

future generations •

8 VINEXPO DAILY / REVIEW EDITION / FRIDAY 30 TH JUNE


DGB Pty Ltd, South Africa’s largest

independent wine, spirits and

craft beer producer, announced

at Vinexpo that it has secured an

exclusive distribution agreement with

China’s massive COFCO group.

COFCO (China Cereals, Oils and

Foodstuffs Co-operation) is China’s

largest importer and exporter in

these fields. The agreement will see

COFCO now operate as the South

African producer’s sales, marketing

and distribution partner with very

ambitious marketing and growth

plans.

Following the agreement, COFCO

will, in the initial phase, exclusively

import and market DGB brands

Boschendal and Tall Horse, with

the expectation to later expand the

portfolio with other brands from the

DGB wine stable.

China has become an increasingly

important market for South African

wineries:

China’s wine import market totaled

638 million litres in 2016 – a

year-an-year increase of 15%,

according to the Asian giant’s

customs department – while import

values grew by 16,3% year-on-year,

amounting to $2,364-billion. Wine

sales in China are predicted to grow

by 39,8% over the next three years,

leading the country to become the

world’s second largest wine market

after the United States – surpassing

France and the UK. South Africa

has seen its market share improving,

as interest in wine in China starts

to extend beyond “traditional” Old

BY-THE-GLASS

INNOVATION

World wine producing countries.

Mainland China is currently the

biggest Asian market for South

African wine by volume and the

sixth largest export destination for

the country.

Says Castle Li, General Manager of

COFCO Wine & Wine: “We are

proud to be associated with the wellrespected

South African industryleader,

DGB. Chinese consumers

are showing increased interest in

‘New World’ wines, and we believe

DGB, with its diverse portfolio, is

well-positioned to provide in this

need. The Boschendal and Tall

Horse brands offer two of the great

market drivers: value and reputable

quality” •

Premium South African Producer

Signs Distribution Agreement with

China’s Largest Importer

At this year’s Vinexpo, Digby presented its by-theglass

wine dispenser on the stand of La Wine

Tech, “The world-wide coordination of wine

start-up”.

The stand regrouped start-ups from all around

the world - building the first international

coordination of fledgling companies around

wine and digital technologies.

Some of them were focused on B2C, while

others like Digby were mainly B2B, as the

company’s innovative dispenser is perfectly

suited for restaurants, hotels, wine merchants,

and even supermarkets.

Digby demonstrated a 2-module dispenser

for a total of 4 bottles of wine. Indeed, all the

dispensers are made of several modules that

receive 2 bottles each in which one can set

the serving temperature independently, while

preserving all the qualities of the wine for several

weeks.

The dispenser can take up to 6 modules and

control up to 12 bottles of wine and serving

volume can be set by the centilitre. Digby is also

a connected device. The owner can control the

temperatures, prices and wine details displayed

on the screen via a web interface.

Digby reports that the Castel group has chosen

its wine dispensers to highlight their most

prestigious products and offer the best way for

their clients to taste them •

The commitment of Marie Brizard Wine & Spirits is to offer consumers

brands they can trust, full of flavours, boldness and experiences.

VINEXPO DAILY / REVIEW EDITION / FRIDAY 30 TH JUNE 9


NEWS

Advertorial

Lionel Osmin,

Thomas Dassé -

Export Sales Europe

and Damiens Sartori -

Oenologist,

Lionel Osmin & Cie

(l. to r.)

The Osmin Report

A look back by France’s south-western wine “guru” Lionel Osmin

on the 2017 edition of Vinexpo Bordeaux

Looking back at Vinexpo 2017, the

show has been a big success for

Lionel Osmin & Cie. As the show

drew to a close on Wednesday

21 st June, we asked the head of this

leading southwestern French wine

company to give us his “feeling”

about the show.

For Lionel Osmin & Cie, Vinexpo is the

gateway to the world. You can’t not be

at Vinexpo if you have an international

ambition! We have primarily been

interested in meeting buyers from around

the world, but not necessarily from

emerging markets, whose buyers are

more interested in the “big names”. As

our region is lesser known internationally,

we are more interested in specialist

operators in mature markets than broadscale

operators in emerging markets.

Already for many of them, getting to

know the Bordeaux and Burgundy

varieties is hard, so you can imagine

what it’s like trying to sell them on the

southwest.

What is the biggest challenge for you

at a show like this?

Our challenge is above all to show,

in all markets that have an ingrained

wine culture, where the consumers

are already somewhat “wine aware”,

we can talk to them about Madiran,

Cahors, Jurançon, Buzet, Marcillac or

Gaillac, but at Osmin & Cie, we have

created complementary ranges of wines,

meaning that our offer today is centred

on two main ranges. On the one hand,

we have appellation wines, wines of

character, terroir, but we also wanted

to adapt our offer to consumers who

are less “enlightened” with a range of

varietal wines. In fact, there are several

ways of attracting consumers around the

world: through appellations, châteaux

and brands, but also through the varietal

- the grape varieties. It’s these cépages

that are at the heart of our DNA, so we

have created a range of very “Frenchy”,

modern wines, called the “Villa” and

“Reserve” collections. These wines are

not overly “funky”, so as to reassure the

consumer, based on indigenous wines,

but can sometimes be blended with

more international varieties.

We saw that the Malbec was very

popular at your stand. What is the

general opinion about this with people

tasting your wines? Do people need

more education?

The Malbec has become internationally

renowned, but its source and origin is

Cahors in the Lot Valley. Traditionally

it’s full-bodied, but we now provide two

interpretations of this wine. The new one

is a fruity vintage, which I would say is

“civilised”, and in no way resembles

the historic, traditional “rustic” variety.

Demonstrating to consumers that Malbec

is an interesting variety, that it is not only

French, but from the southwest, allows

us to promote it today as the “original

French fresh Malbec”. The Negrette

is also very unique, planted only at

Fronton just north of Toulouse, producing

excellent rosé wines.

Your stand was clearly marked with

your new “sub brand” - Les Passeurs

du Vin. What is this exactly?

While my entire career up until relatively

recently in the wine world was centred

on selling wines from my region around

the world, I also wanted to help people

in France discover other amazing wines

from different regions in the world – a

kind of “payback”. So to cut a long

story short, one day I was talking to

Imanol Harinordoquy (eds: a French

International Rugby Union player), who

was a big wine fan, and the idea of

creating a new entity in this sense really

appealed to him. Finally, this has come

to pass, and he is now attacking this

new challenge with as much gusto as

when he was a rugby international. This

is the first time we have presented this

activity at Vinexpo.

Finally, what is your overall impression

of this year’s show?

We achieved what we set out to do –

that is to educate, interest and excite

buyers of French southwestern product

on the global stage, and of some

exceptional little-known foreign wines

in France. I am convinced that all those

(and there were many) who stopped by

our stand, will have walked away with a

new understanding of not just one, but a

number of new products! •

Madiran Charles de Batz

Domaine San de Guilhem,

Carpe Guilhem blanc sec

10 VINEXPO DAILY / REVIEW EDITION / FRIDAY 30 TH JUNE


Advertorial

The Villa Collection

by Lionel Osmin

Lionel Osmin’s Villa Collection of

varietal wines marries tradition and

modernity. Plentiful or shy, these are

traditional grape varieties unlike any

other. With fruit and personality, these

accessible wines are a pleasure to

drink throughout the year.

VILLA LA VIE EN ROSE

Négrette is one of the best grape

varieties in the southwest for the

production of rosé wines. This native

variety is mainly planted to the north

of Toulouse, and the Cuvée bears

a name that pays homage to this

famous “Ville Rose“ so beautifully

sung by the French blues star Claude

Nougaro. Its pale and delicate dress,

its very fruity, expressive style and its

characteristic freshness make this rosé

a versatile and festive wine.

VILLA CHAMBRE

D’AMOUR

The golden and sun-drenched clusters

of gros Manseng and Sauvignon

blanc are picked after the first frosts of

the autumn to give this wine mellow,

refreshing and sweet notes at the

same time. It enchants with its notes

of grapefruit, pineapple, pear and

bourbon vanilla, as well as its low

level of alcohol (10.5%). It bears the

evocative name of the famous beach

at Anglet in the Basque Country, on

the Atlantic coast.

VILLA GRAND CAP

A blend of Colombard and Sauvignon

Blanc with a touch of gros Manseng,

selected in the heart of the various

vineyards of the southwest, gives

“Villa Grand Cap”, the profile of an

THE VILLA COLLECTION

elegant white wine: fresh and fruity.

Its assertive style makes it possible

to associate it with many dishes of

international gastronomy.

VILLA DE COCAGNE

The Merlot and the Tannat with a

hint of Syrah, give this wine with

the scents of violet, grey pepper

and crisp black cherries wrapped in

silky tannins. Its roundness and fruits

allow it to be served slightly chilled to

accompany any meal •

WHO

REALLY IS

LIONEL

OSMIN?

“My family path was drawn:

gold, precious stones,

watchmaking... But, it was

written that I would be the

family troublemaker! My father

pushed me to follow agronomy

studies so that I could have the

choice. I love the earth, the

men who work with it; I love

the wine, the smells, the scents,

the taste, the friendliness, the

idea that only one’s will can

change things profoundly. My

future was thus in the heart

of the Earth and of people.

I wanted to be a farmer or

a pianist. I tried, I got lost, I

went awry. Basically, what I

really wanted was to share

my enthusiasm. That’s what I

needed to succeed. The rest is

an ordinary story. Agricultural

Engineering degree in my

pocket, I was ready to face

the world and finally, I had a

great desire to do. I probably

chose a difficult path, but I am

so attached to my region: the

southwest! My will is to offer

only the best. My ambition: to

magnify blends to shape high

quality wines, each in their

segments.

THE ARMAGNACS

OF LIONEL OSMIN:

THE ADDITIONAL SOUL

OF THE SOUTHWEST

For more than 700 years, in the heart of the Southwest,

in Gascony more precisely, the growers of white wines

gave birth to one of the most beautiful French spirits:

Armagnac.

Fiery and racy, this precious liquid finds wisdom and

fullness through many years of ageing in the quiet of the

cellars.

5 Armagnacs, from 12 to 39 years of age, bear the

Lionel Osmin signature - a selection based on emotion

and pleasure, which have given birth to a limited range,

with Armagnacs in the purest possible style, with little or

no reduction, leaving the accelerators of aging to enable

the intrinsic character of this genuine and authentic eaude-vie

to be fully expressed.

The wines of the southwest

are true and rare. We owe

this to the terroirs and to the

men. For me, the Southwest is

authenticity, another dimension

whose originalities magnify

one’s enthusiasm.

In a new business, our only

way out: do it right. You

know, 3,000 years ago, man

already produced wine. I have

the furious will to share my

southwest with you. Besides,

I’m not alone. “Lionel Osmin”,

certainly, but “& CIE” (eds: and

company) above all.

VINEXPO DAILY / REVIEW EDITION / FRIDAY 30 TH JUNE 11


SEEN AT VINEXPO

Good Things in

Small Packages

A wine in a small screw-top bottle? Yes, you can!

This Asian-based company is currently offering

unpretentious and affordable packaging for

Portuguese wine, that can be stored like this

for 15 to 25 years. Alcohol-free to 11°, this

product is intended to compete with the mode

of consumption of beer. Currently available in

China and Singapore.

Xuangliang Yu – General Manager

Edivo Wine –

From Under the

Sea

Hailing from Croatia - a unique memory of the

depths of the Adriatic Sea: a bottle of wine

from the Peljesac Peninsula, the premium Plavac

Edivo that spends one to two years immersed

under the sea. A beautiful layer of coral, shells

and algae will cover the bottle or the amphora

in which the bottle has been placed.

Château Haut Selve

Celebrates 20 th Vintage at

Vinexpo

The first vintage of Château Haut Selve was released in 1996, and at

Vinexpo, the 20 th Anniversary vintage (2015) was presented.

Château Haut Selve lays claim to being the only vineyard created in Bordeaux

in the 20 th Century. It was planted in the historical Graves Appellation area

over a pine forest where vines used to grow 120 years ago.

12 VINEXPO DAILY / REVIEW EDITION / FRIDAY 30 TH JUNE


Russian Recipe –

Romanian Production

Stalinskaya Vodka was presented at Vinexpo Bordeaux by

Prodal – a producer based in Romania. In three different

varieties, the name Stalinskaya is derived from the Russian

“Stal” – meaning “strong as steel”. The Romanian-made

Vodkas have won 65 international awards over the past

eight years. Prodal also presented its premium dry Gin,

“Pride of Wembley”.

Prodal Export Director Ovidiu Chiscan

Spirit of Sushi

The clientele of the restaurants and sushi bars

are now being offered a French white wine

assembled from the varietals Sauvignon,

Semillon and Muscadelle. Create specially

to agree with sushi and Japanese cuisine in

general. The idea stems from Adrien Truchon-

Bartes, and has been developed by oenologist

Stephane Grangeot.

Stephane Grangeot (left)

and Adrien Truchon-Bartes (right)

Two Gins…

Two Characters

Master blender Laurent Vallet, known until now for his

Cognacs, presented two new Gin varieties, distilled

from grapes: Osmoz Classic and Osmoz Citrus.

Vallet told Vinexpo Daily that the Gins have “two

complementary personalities, two incomparable

interpretations, and a shared vision of alchemy and

diversity of aromas.

Laurent Vallet

VINEXPO DAILY / REVIEW EDITION / FRIDAY 30 TH JUNE 13


TRADE TALK

The Fine Art of Creating

the Wine-list for Alain

Ducasse Enterprises

The celebrated chef Alain Ducasse has many mouths to feed on a daily basis considering

his group now includes 28 restaurants across eight different countries. But that is also a

challenge for his executive wine director Gérard Margeon to create a wine list that not

only complements every dish, but is as challenging for some customers, yet tried, tested

and re-assuring for others. We asked him what key trends he sees at the moment in terms

of wine sales in his restaurants.

Gérard

Margeon

Executive Wine Director,

Alain Ducasse Entreprises

We are really seeing a return to the wines of

France once again. But there is also a lot of interest

in cool, refreshing ocean wines, where there is the

influence of the sea.

This year’s partner country was Spain. What do

you think of Spanish wines?

I love Spain and have a house in Catalonia. The

red wines have made incredible progress in recent

years, but there is still work to be done on the white

wines. But their producers have a very modern

approach to winemaking.

Which Spanish regions do you find the most

interesting?

Those that interest me the most are the producers

who work with Grenache. So Montsant and then

Priorat.

What are your secrets for getting the most out of

a busy show like Vinexpo?

I have visited Vinexpo every year since the first

edition in 1981. I know all the secrets of Vinexpo:

1/ You have to be very disciplined.

2/ Create a strict program and stick to it.

3/Do not forget to greet all the winemakers you

know.

What are your thoughts about Vinexpo Daily?

Vinexpo Daily is very complete and also very

playful at the same time •

THERE IS A LOT

OF INTEREST IN

COOL, REFRESHING

OCEAN WINES,

WHERE THERE IS THE

INFLUENCE OF THE

SEA.

THE VINEXPO

CLUB: BRINGING

TOP BUYERS

TOGETHER

The Vinexpo Club is the leading network of top wine and spirits

buyers and key decision-makers, and this year at Vinexpo

Bordeaux, the initiative proved to be a great success.

Being a member of the Vinexpo Club gives the opportunity to

network with international industry players and discuss common

issues all year round. Those who participate also get a preview

of Vinexpo’s market research reports to keep them abreast of

emerging trends •

14 VINEXPO DAILY / REVIEW EDITION / FRIDAY 30 TH JUNE


PRESS CORNER

Seek and Ye Shall Find

What were the media looking for at Vinexpo this year? We put the question to

several as we met with them in the convivial press zone…

Cathy Huyghe

forbes.com

The issues and trends that are on my mind, and that

I hope to “fill in” at Vinexpo, are things like labor

and immigration, and price adjustments in reaction

to the political climate in the UK and the US. I also

have a special affinity for sparkling wine (including

those produced outside of Champagne), and for

what’s happening in emerging consumer markets

such as sub-Saharan Africa and China. Vinexpo is

so comprehensive that I’m sure I’ll be able to learn

about those things and more! At this show, there’s no

way to cover it all, so it helps to go in with a very

solid “itinerary” that I adjust as needed.

Richard Siddle

Editor and co-founder, the-buyer.net

Vinexpo is a wonderful opportunity for a

journalist and commentator on wine to hear

first-hand the issues, the opportunities and

challenges wine producers the world over

are facing. It’s vital to spend as much time

as possible asking the right questions and

listening to the answers. My tips? Find the

time to explore, discover, attend keynote

talks and remember the world of wine is

changing far quicker than your business so

you need to be watching and listening to

keep up.

Rodolphe Wartel

Publishing director, Terre de Vins

We are looking to meet with operators, mainly French,

that we do not meet with regularly. It is an opportunity

to better understand their developments and their news,

and to have new sources of information. Our focus is on

France, all regions. For Bordeaux, where a part of our

team is installed, we will also be looking for a “different”

Bordeaux, less woody, more creative, engaged: wines

that can give a rejuvenated image of Bordeaux, as part of

a supplement that we publish in September. We also hope

to learn! The conferences proposed on Brexit and Spain

as a guest of honour are points of interest that position

Vinexpo at the heart of international news.

VINEXPO DAILY / REVIEW EDITION / FRIDAY 30 TH JUNE 15


EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW

Dark and Broody:

Meet De Bortoli’s New Shiraz…

and Much More!

The Australian winemaker goes from strength to strength in

international markets

On 13 th June, New South Wales

Environment Minister Gabrielle

Upton presented De Bortoli Wines

with the state’s first Sustainability

Advantage Platinum Project at a

ceremony in Sydney. Awarded

for outstanding environmental

leadership and innovation, De

Bortoli Wines is the only business

in NSW to have reached this

level in the Office of Environment

and Heritage’s (OEH) flagship

Sustainability Advantage

program, which encourages and

enables sustainable business best

practice. This acknowledgement

recognises “The De Bortoli

Method”, a unique potassium

Francis Aguilar

General Manager,

UK & Europe - De Bortoli Wines

recovery system that turns the

winery’s wastewater into an

environmentally friendly cleaning

agent that has the potential for

commercial application for any

business using caustic chemicals.

Meanwhile here at Vinexpo,

Francis Aguilar - General Manager

UK & Europe - De Bortoli Wines

hosted a very popular stand,

where we met with him and asked

about the key trends in Australian

wines today…

Mediterranean varietals such as

Assrytiko, Tempanillo, Dolcetto, Arneis,

Vermentino have been making waves

either as straight varietals or blended

alongside more familiar names such as

Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and Shiraz.

Pinot Noir has seen great changes over

the past years with many cool climates

slowly perfecting this ever-challenging

grape variety. From choosing the right

clone to using winemaking techniques

such as whole bunch fermentation,

have all added to the slow and steady

improvement over the years. Regions

such as Victoria’s Yarra Valley but

also other Victorian regions such as

Gippsland, Mornignton Peninsula and

Geelong have grown a lot in popularity.

In general, there is a move towards

more restraint and much more focus

on tannin, character, and region rather

than fruit, oak and so on. This you can

find across all grape varieties -- even

in Chardonnay and Shiraz. For an

example, we have released a wine

called Woodfired, which has been

a massive hit in Australia. It’s a dark

broody Shiraz from Heathcote, but it

leaves a nice crunchy freshness on the

palet which you would not have found

in Australian reds years ago.

How are Australian labels becoming

more globally competitive up against

famous French or Italian wines?

Australian Wine labels remain at the

forefront of the global wine market

today with its shift from a brand

reputational message to a more casual

and alternative “look and feel” that

provide the consumers an emotion that

inspires or conveys a sense of relating

to oneself. This is the next step. Labels

that talk, make you laugh, give a pointer

to how you can enjoy… all things easy

from an Australian perspective, which

has the end result that consumers have

learnt to love from Australia: providing

a friendly demystified wine tasting

experience.

How are sales of Australian wine

progressing in China?

Booming! 5 years ago, when the

Chinese leadership changed, everyone

was crying as sales plummeted

following the new leaders’ commitment

to stamping out corruption. However,

that’s all history given the build of the

“real” market.

THERE IS A

MOVE TOWARDS

MORE RESTRAINT

AND MUCH MORE

FOCUS ON TANNIN,

CHARACTER, AND

REGION RATHER

THAN FRUIT, OAK

AND SO ON.

Sales are rising on an annual rate of plus

40%, to today’s figure of $US540M

worth; second in line to France. This says

a great deal, given the reputation for the

image conscious Chinese consumer. So,

China has turned out brilliantly, diverse

as they come, with a real enthusiasm

and recognition for Australian wine.

Originally, Australia was known for the

Barossa and Hunter Valleys, however

this is changing rapidly today, with the

Riverina and other key growing areas

emerging with quality product. What

are the key trends in that respect?

Indeed, Barossa and Hunter are 2 of

the earliest wine regions to become

famous. However, so many other

regions are just the coolest places to be

right now…whether it’s the 8,000-yearold

Cambrian soils from Heathcote or

the Upper Yarra sub region of Woori

Yallock Australian wines of today are

more about expressing the region or

vineyard where they are from. Riverina is

also interesting for botrytis, fortifieds and

producing wines to a price. Organic is

something which is growing in many

regions •

16 VINEXPO DAILY / REVIEW EDITION / FRIDAY 30 TH JUNE


Peter Gago

Penfolds Chief Winemaker

I TRAVEL THE WORLD QUITE A LOT,

BUT HERE, WE COME TO ONE PLACE

AND THE WORLD COMES TO US, AND

THAT’S THE BEAUTY OF VINEXPO IN

BORDEAUX.

The World Gets the Taste

of Australian Wines

Penfolds Chief Winemaker – Peter Gago – imparts his knowledge

and wisdom at Vinexpo 2017

The custodian – amongst other

things – of the legendary Penfolds

Grange – chief winemaker for the

Australian producer, Peter Gago

was present at Vinexpo Bordeaux

where he held a series of Master

Classes. We asked him to tell us

about the tastings…

The great thing about Vinexpo is that we

are able to show people from across the

planet what we do – not just with the

current releases, but with tastings across

the decades. The tastings here have

been on Saint Henri – a wonderful Syrah

or Shiraz blend – and Bin 389, and

we’ve gone back across five decades.

Because there is an understanding that

Australian wine can be good value

for money and lots of fruit and flavour,

but it’s only when you look at the older

wines that the seriousness of the offer

becomes quite prevalent. Having said

that though, we have been very big

proponents of Vinexpo going way back.

I’ve lost count of how many Vinexpos

I’ve had. For us, this is THE showcase

for fine wine. The people we’ve been

meeting with from every part of the world

here, it’s just been amazing. We put on

a dinner in a beautiful property in the

middle of Bordeaux for our Chinese and

other Asian guests. So, it’s an Australian

winery, in Bordeaux, entertaining Asian

clientele. When we were at the Cité

du Vin the other day in Bordeaux, we

saw Penfolds Grange and Penfolds Bin

28. That would not have happened 20

years ago. You have a world epicentre

of fine wine here in Bordeaux that’s very

positively, generously engaging wines

from across the planet; and that’s such a

professional and mature approach. We

also met with Jacques Olivier Pesme from

Kedge Business School of Bordeaux,

as there is a lovely liaison between the

University of Adelaide and the University

of Bordeaux. And in fact, I am now

officially the global ambassador for the

Great Wine Capitals of which Bordeaux

is one; Adelaide in South Australia is

the second out of only ten across the

planet, including Napa, San Francisco

and Oporto. We have been meeting at

Vinexpo to discuss links in education, in

tourism, and obviously also in business.

So, it’s not just about pouring wine. This is

a great, great venue for talking about the

world of commerce, the world of wine

education, and so many other things. I

travel the world quite a lot, but here, we

come to one place and the world comes

to us, and that’s the beauty of Vinexpo in

Bordeaux.

What is the feedback like from the

people who have been tasting your

wines?

The first reaction was more or less of

shock (laughs)… Humble Bin 389, which

is not at the top of our tiers of portfolios,

but is more mid-range. “Wow! How

fresh is that 1989? Doesn’t that ’78 look

good!” … Like surprise and shock. But

also putting things back into perspective.

Bin 389 has been released for 57

vintages uninterrupted. St Henri goes

back to the late 1800’s. From a Penfold’s

perspective, we resurrected it in the early

1950’s. People talk about Old World

and New World, but when they leave

this tasting, they no longer use the term

New World, they use the term Newer

World!

WORLD’S MOST

EXPENSIVE

WINE

How is the global perception of

Australian wine evolving?

There’s a big change in attitude. When

I used to do tastings in Paris 15 or 20

years ago, we would invite 20 media.

Two might respond, one might arrive. In

September of last year, we invited 22

top people… and all 22 came. That

doesn’t even happen in Adelaide! That

shows the difference in the perception of

Australian wine. Times have changed •

Peter Gago is the winemaker

behind the most expensive

wine in the world – the

Penfolds Ampoule Kalimna

Block 42 Cabernet

Sauvignon 2004, valued at

over $US160,000.

VINEXPO DAILY / REVIEW EDITION / FRIDAY 30 TH JUNE 17


REGIONAL SPOTLIGHT: AUSTRALIA

SUNSHINE CREEK

STANDING PROUD

@ VINEXPO

Mosel Wine region

Adelaide, South Australia –

a Great Wine Capital of the World

In 2015–16, South Australia’s fact, more than 200 of our cellar

Sunshine Creek winery was back at Vinexpo for the

wine industry generated doors are within an hour’s drive

second time – but for the first time with a “standalone”

booth.

$AUS2.11 bn in revenue, with of the city centre of Adelaide, the

$AUS1.34 bn of this from wine capital of South Australia.

exports, and in July 2016, Our state has a unique history of

Sunshine Creek is the venture of Chinese-born

Adelaide / South Australia winemaking. The region is one of

packaging magnate James Zhou, whom over many

became a member of the Great the few places in the world that is

years has worked with Grant Burge, Philip Shaw

Wine Capitals Global Network, free of the grape vine destroying

(eds: a guest at the Vinexpo stand), Philip Jones, Pat

recognising excellence in all pest phylloxera, and the local

Carmody and Mario Marson, and was looking for

aspects of its wine industry producers make almost 80% of

a site to produce wines under his own brand to sell

including wine grape production, the nation’s premium wine from

domestically and overseas. Having found just the

winemaking, research and some of the oldest vines in the

right place at Yarra Glen – Martha’s Vineyard (first

development, tourism and world. With these credentials, it’s

established in the 1980’s) – the new label came to

education.

no wonder Adelaide is known as

be just a few years ago, and today is producing

Australia’s wine capital.

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and a Cabernet blend

Eighteen distinct wine regions

of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc,

span across South Australia, National wine industry

Malbec and Petit Verdot. A Heathcote Shiraz is also

including the Adelaide Hills, associations, major wine

produced.

Barossa, McLaren Vale, education and research and

At Vinexpo 2015, the fledgling winery from the

Yarra Valley near Melbourne was bundled with

a group of other Australian producers. This time,

as the owner, Mr Zhou, had recently purchased

Coonawarra and Clare Valley. In development institutions all have

Château Renon in Tabanac, the group decided to

do a “two-in-one” stand featuring both French and

Australian wineries side-by-side. Hentley Farm’s Andrew Quin

With such an impressive stand, Group Export,

Sales & Marketing Manager, Benjamin Roberts, told awarded Barons of Barossa

Vinexpo Daily that the reason for this was to be able

to host daily master classes covering both wineries.

2017 Winemaker of the Year

“In Australia, our most popular products are our

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir,” explains Roberts. “This

year, it’s been interesting for us to see that our most

popular product here is our 2013 Chardonnay.

Everybody really enjoys the ‘old world’ style of this

At this year’s Declaration of

Vintage celebration in South

Australia, winemaker Andrew

wine. It’s not tight and lean. It’s not a buttery, oaky

Quin was awarded the

gold medal award-winning wine. It’s probably got

more structure and complexity, and people really

seem to enjoy that.”

prestigious Barons of Barossa

2017 Winemaker of the Year.

Quin has taken a slightly

unusual road to winemaking,

According to Roberts, there has been new genuine

interest at Vinexpo from distributors in Poland,

Denmark, Switzerland, Holland and Quebec.

transitioning from his original

field of study – horticulture. For

Andrew, winemaking provided

French buyers still, according to Roberts, shy away

an unparalleled opportunity to

combine scientific knowledge

with his artistic flair, in the pursuit

their headquarters in South

Australia, providing leadership

in winemaking and viticulture

intellect and expertise.

Today, the South Australian

wine industry supports not only

highly regarded, established

wine producers, but also a

large number of exciting young,

innovative winemakers who

embrace the use of alternative

varietals and natural winemaking

principles with minimal

interventions and organic farming

techniques •

of creating something that others

could enjoy… great wine!

Andrew joins an elite class of

Barossa winemakers and further

cements himself as one of the

best and consistent young talents

in the country. “I think it’s a pretty

tough job for these guys picking

a winemaker every year, this

community is bursting with great

winemakers,” he stated. “I’m

obviously incredibly honoured

to be the person selected for this

great award in 2017” •

18 VINEXPO DAILY / REVIEW EDITION / FRIDAY 30 TH JUNE


REGIONAL SPOTLIGHT: GERMANY

GERMANY:

TREND

TOWARDS

HIGHER QUALITY

WINES FOR

EXPORT

Mosel Wine region

Rediscovered: Germany’s Aromatic

Grape Varieties

Last year around one million hectoliters of German

wine valued at 288 million euros was exported to

130 countries, representing a decline in value of

Aromatic grape varieties are one of the major German bouquet

experiencing a revival both in varieties. Scheurebe wines range

4% and of 3% in volume. Entry-level wines were

Germany itself and abroad. from dry to luscious sweet,

most affected by this development.

This year’s Vinexpo covers the and from quality to ice wines.

full gamut of these wines, which

On the other hand, quality wines are becoming

appeal especially to younger wine Sauvignon Blanc is the

increasingly important in German wine exports,

enthusiasts – thanks to their shooting star among German white

having gained an 85% share of the total export

intensive aroma, coupled with a wines. Over the past ten years, its

revenue and a 75% share of the export volume.

pleasantly fresh fruity acidity and vineyard area in Germany has

subtle sweetness.

more than tripled to 960 ha, with

Compared with the previous year, this corresponds

further potential for growth.

to an increase of 2%, continuing the trend towards With over 100 years’ history,

higher quality wines in exports that has been

observed for some time now.

“German wine exporters see themselves up against

very stiff international competition, especially in

the entry-level sector”, explains DWI managing

director Monika Reule. “This is amongst other

factors due to the declining wine consumption in

Scheurebe has a cultivation area

of around 1,400 hectares, and is

Then there’s Gewürztraminer, a

monument to German wine culture

the large European winegrowing countries. In the

past few years, these countries have increased their

export activities and – due to the relatively lower

production costs - are able to offer their wines at

a more favourable price than German producers.

Because of this, the path we are taking in our wine

One-Stop

German Partner

exports to raise our profile through quality and

increase added value for our producers is, in the

long-term, the right one,” says Reule.

The average price of exported quality wines

remained unchanged in 2016 at 3.23 €/l,

compared with a one cent drop in the mean value

for all wines, now at 2.88 €/l. Red quality wines,

For those who are looking for estate

bottled, natural Riesling and Pinot Noir

wines from all wine growing areas

of Germany, and who wish to get

a choice of finest quality wines from

ONE source of supply and on one

in Germany.

with a share of 7% of total exports, were exported

invoice, MO-RHE-NA has a very long

at an average price of 3.61 €/l

list of references.

For many years, German wine exporters have

generated more than a quarter of their total revenue

in the USA. In 2016, 187,000 hectolitres of wine

with a value of €80m and an above-average price

of 4.26 €/l in the mean were exported to this

MO-RHE-NA and its associates commit

themselves to making and promoting

high class quality estate wines, and their wine portfolio •

– steeped in centuries of tradition.

A total of 420 ha of the overall

965 ha can be found in the Pfalz

– the largest vineyard area of this

variety. The remainder is grown in

Baden and Sachsen as a speciality.

Gewürztraminer seduces the

senses with its captivating scent

of roses. Matured as a dry to offdry

wine, it complements Asian

cuisine or game pâté, while luscious

sweet varieties are especially tasty

with aromatic desserts and spicy

cheese •

are able to connect interested buyers

or importers with a number of wellknown

wine estates from many regions

MO-RHE-NA brand names such as the

Refreshing Riesling, the Wine Diva and

the Scheurebe Spätlese in blue bottles,

the luscious Riesling Eiswein (icewine)

or the fine B.A.(Beerenauslese) top-off

VINEXPO DAILY / REVIEW EDITION / FRIDAY 30 TH JUNE 19


SPECIAL FEATURE: SPIRITS

Spirits brands from across all the

growing categories were out in

force at last week’s Vinexpo, giving

buyers the chance to taste, see and

enjoy the next big thing coming to

a back bar soon.

WHISKY AND WHISKEY

Leading the charge were the number

of new whisky and whiskey brands

at the show, reflecting the growth in

a category that Vinexpo and IWSR

research predicts will keep growing

with Scotch whisky set to reach 93.8

million 9-ltr cases by 2020, up on 87.7

million cases now.

Scotch and US whiskies combined are

expected to be the best-performing

Distillery that produces “The Irishman”

range of single malts, said: “The interest

is just so big. Asia and Africa are among

the leaders but the Middle East and Latin

America also want to drink whiskey. We

are in 45 international markets and Irish

whiskey is one of the fastest growing in

the world.”

The Walsh Distillery’s own expansion

plans reflects the expected growth with

plans to move from an 800,000-bottle

capacity distillery to one that can

produce 8.5m bottles a year.

Ireland’s The Shed Distillery was also at

the show and hosted a masterclass on

“The Irish Spirits Renaissance”.

Spirits Raise

was able to show this new Terrapure

ageing at the show.

RUM

Premiumisation is very much the driving

force of the rum category with more

premium brands on the market.

But it is also about being able to tell

a story, like with Dzama Rhum of

Madagascar which has a vintage going

back 33 years. Dan Bastien, marketing

director, said the rum’s unique flavour

comes from using wild grown sugar

canes rather than farmed crops common

in most major brands.

“This is the ylang-ylang of our rum – the

particular factor that gives our canes

Sophie Lawrence, brand manager,

said it had enjoyed a busy week.

“Our brands go all over the world. At

Vinexpo, it’s like the world is coming to

us!” she said.

VODKA

One of the biggest launches at the show

was Taiga Shtof, a super-premium vodka

made in Siberia with 100% Alpha Spirit

(the highest grade of alcohol) and the

purest water sourced from three different

locations in the icy Taiga region of the

country. The distillery dates back to

earlier than the Russian revolution.

Roman Gazine, joint founder said:

“We chose Siberia to give Taiga Shtof

appellation authority – the first vodka

brand to do this. Shtof is the original unit

of measurement, 1.23ml, that has been

used in Russia since the 12th century.

Each of our bottles gives 10 measures,

or shots, of 1.23ml. Using the craft

approach, we are raising the level of

production of Russian vodka to a new

level.”

the Bar at Vinexpo

international spirits categories between

2016–2020, with consumption of

bourbon set to rise from 39.5 million

cases (in 2015) to 46.5 million cases

in 2020.

But it is Irish whiskey which really is

booming in some markets. Connor

Booth, brand ambassador for the Walsh

BOURBON

One of the stand outs in the bourbon

section was Earl Hewlette of Terressentia

and owner of O Z Tyler Bourbon from

Kentucky. He has patented an ageing

process that reduces the time the spirit

spends in barrel to as little as six months.

The cost saving of doing so is huge. He

grown here a different personality, of

taste and flavour,” he said.

Sovereign Brands from the UK were also

at this show with its range of premium,

craft produced lines including Bumbu,

Belaire and Cloud Chaser which are

now sold in over 100 countries.

SAKE AND SOCHU

There was a large delegation of 23

sake brewers and five sochu distillers at

this year’s show thanks to the efforts of

the Japanese Sake and Sochu Producers

Association. It was a big opportunity for

them to showcase the best of what is

happening with sake and sochu that

is gaining more listing particularly with

sommeliers looking for something new •

20 VINEXPO DAILY / REVIEW EDITION / FRIDAY 30 TH JUNE


Tovaritch!

What a Performance!

Russian vodka brand

Tovaritch! was not only

presenting new brands at

Vinexpo, it was putting on

daily performances of cocktail

making with top mixologists at

the Spiritual bar.

Writers’ Tears Set to Flow in

France Following Vinexpo Deal

One of Ireland’s leading Irish whiskey

producers, Walsh Whiskey Distillery,

hopes to build its popularity in France

thanks to a new distribution deal with

Dugas of Paris signed at Vinexpo.

Thanks to the deal, Dugas will start

distribution of Walsh Whiskey’s Writers’

Tears premium Irish whiskey range from

September 1 st . The contract was signed at

the show by founders and chief executives

of the two companies, Francois-Xavier

Dugas and Bernard Walsh.

Dugas has built a reparation in France for

its strong Irish and Scottish whisky ranges.

Walsh said he believed Dugas was a

“great fit” for the brand as it had such

a good network of high-end bars and

specialist retail stores across France, one

of its key strategic markets.

There are three whiskey’s in the Writers’

Tears range: Copper Pot; Red Head Single

Malt; and Cask Strength •

Tovaritch! is now sold in

over 30 countries and is

aimed at the premium hotel

and restaurant market. It has

grown to be the third biggest

Russian vodka brand in the

UK and is number one in

Belgium and South Africa and

hopes to widen distribution

further after Vinexpo 2017.

It is produced using 100%

natural, organic and non-

GMO ingredients, combining

spring wheat and rye from

the Volga region with water

drawn from underground

cellars •

Monteru Brandy

Turns Japanese

France’s Monteru Brandy

has built a reputation for

developing not only innovative

products, but the way in which

they are produced.

Monteru is the first producer of

single grape brandy using the

traditional “double distillation”

and the most sought after

single varietals from the best

producing regions of France.

They add to this by aging

their eaux-de-vie in pre-used

oak barrels for a maximum of

3 years in order to keep the

typicity of each the unique

varietals.

French Whisky

from Black Mountain

France is slowly gaining a reputation for

the quality of its whiskies as well as its

other more famous spirits. Black Mountain

Compagnie is typical of a new breed of

The producer’s latest launch

craft distiller that is making regional French

claims to be both the first

whisky a category of its own. That means

brandy, and French spirit,

making whisky from water that comes direct

to be finished in Japanese

from a high-altitude spring in the Haut

mizunara casks, famous for the

Languedoc. Its distillery won’t be finished

quality they bring to traditional

until 2018, but that has not stopped it from

Japanese whiskies • making award-winning blended whiskies,

finished in French spirits casks called the

Black Mountain Selection. The BM No 1

was named Best European Blended Whisky

at the 2015 World Whiskies Awards

whilst the BM Notes Fumées was named

Best Blend of France at the World Whiskies

Awards in 2016. A limited edition will

soon be released of Black Mountain No

1 that’s spent six months ageing in barrels

whilst being sailed between France and the

Scilly Isles •

VINEXPO DAILY / REVIEW EDITION / FRIDAY 30 TH JUNE 21

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