July | August 2017

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PG.106<br />

PG.78<br />

Rye Bliss<br />

Cocktail<br />

Grilled Peach and<br />

Ricotta Salad<br />

Art Meets<br />

Fly-Fishing<br />

1859oregonsmagazine.com<br />

$5.95 display until <strong>August</strong> 31, <strong>2017</strong><br />

LIVE<br />

THINK<br />


OREGON<br />

<strong>July</strong> | <strong>August</strong> volume 46

Imagine the possibilities.<br />

Do you have<br />

a plan for college?<br />


Bradley Lanphear<br />

Men In Kilts<br />

Is there anything more Portland than<br />

a man clad in a kilt? StumpTown Kilts<br />

started more than a decade ago with<br />

sixteen prototypes and a lot of beer.<br />

Today the company combines tradition<br />

with function, as well as a mission<br />

statement: Real men wear skirts.

FROM LEFT John McClain and Todd Altstadt, founders of StumpTown Kilts, enjoy the<br />

outdoors. StumpTown Kilts are hand-stitched with fine fabrics.<br />

Bradley Lanphear


JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong> • volume 46<br />

81<br />

Oregon’s Baseball Roots<br />

Oregon may not have a pro baseball team, but<br />

it has a long and storied history with America’s<br />

greatest pastime.<br />

written by Erick Mertz<br />

Jason Quigley<br />

88<br />

The Ultimate Airstream Roadtrip<br />

It’s that time of year again—when a young man’s<br />

fancy turns to thoughts of ... road trips. Get into<br />

the road trip “state of mind” with some of the<br />

best stops around the state.<br />

written by Kevin Max<br />

96<br />

Hike It Baby<br />

Take a hike with the nonprofit organization<br />

that gets families outside.<br />

photos by Jason Quigley<br />

A Hike It Baby excursion at the<br />

Upper McCord Creek trail in the<br />

Columbia River Gorge.<br />

4 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>




Many of the projects we support aren’t glamorous, but to Oregon’s workforce they<br />

couldn’t be more beautiful. Since the people of Oregon created the Lottery in 1984, over<br />

$3 billion in Lottery funding has helped create jobs and lay the vital groundwork for<br />

more in the future. When we help Oregon business do more business, everyone wins.<br />

Lottery games are based on chance and should be played for entertainment only.

64<br />

56<br />

COVER<br />

photo by Emily Green<br />

John Riha<br />

106<br />


JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong> • volume 46<br />

12 Editor’s Letter<br />

15 1859 Online<br />

119 Map of Oregon<br />

120 Until Next Time<br />

Victoria Carlson<br />

Austin White<br />

LIVE<br />

18 NOTEBOOK<br />

Summer in Oregon means events, from rodeos to the iconic Country<br />

Fair. If you’d rather sit back with some music and a good book,<br />

turn on The Slants and learn more about the wine you’re sipping<br />

with Cork Dork.<br />

24 FOOD + DRINK<br />

Put on your fancy hat and head to the Oregon Polo Classic, or celebrate<br />

the solar eclipse at a winery event. Then check out our picks<br />

for some good local lagers.<br />

34 HOME + DESIGN<br />

Take a bite out of our Oregon peach recipes, and ogle two incredible<br />

backyard transformations.<br />

54 MIND + BODY<br />

Betina Gozo is a Nike master trainer who runs her own training studio<br />

and is vying to be Women’s Health’s Next Fitness Star. Oh, she<br />

also plays bass, dances and does pretty much everything else.<br />


Fly-fishing is an art, and so are the implements fishermen use—we profile<br />

three companies creating works of art that double as tools of the trade.<br />

THINK<br />

64 STARTUP<br />

One Bend woman’s love of a comfortable swimsuit led her to start<br />

CeaBikinis, a company with a cult following.<br />

66 WHAT’S GOING UP<br />

First came food carts. Now the newest thing on the Portland scene<br />

is food halls.<br />


The Architectural Heritage Center in Portland is in the midst of<br />

documenting properties important to the city’s African American<br />

heritage before these properties disappear.<br />


StumpTown Kilts are built to endure weather, washing and pretty<br />

much any other rigor that comes your way.<br />


When Big Timber died, Wallowa County was hard hit. Thanks to a<br />

local nonprofit, residents have gone from resentment to revitalization.<br />



A training ground for scuba divers, the true wonder of Woahink<br />

Lake lies beneath the surface.<br />

102 ADVENTURES<br />

Fly-fishing on the John Day River is an unexpected treat, so long as<br />

you’re going for bass.<br />

104 LODGING<br />

McMenamins Grand Lodge may just be the brand’s crown jewel.<br />

106 TRIP PLANNER<br />

Hip restaurants and hiking trails will help you go beyond windsurfing<br />

on your next trip to Hood River.<br />


The Olympic Peninsula truly offers something for everyone, from<br />

jagged peaks and rainforests to quaint towns and luxury resorts.<br />

6 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>



Writer<br />

Artist in Residence<br />

If there’s anything as<br />

pleasurable as fly-fishing, it’s<br />

visiting our region’s fly-fishing<br />

shops and talking to other<br />

aficionados about this gentle<br />

sport. It was in those shops that<br />

I began to have an appreciation<br />

of the exquisite craftsmanship<br />

of locally made fly-fishing gear.<br />

As a writer, I wanted to explore<br />

further, and I discovered stories<br />

of the dedication and love that<br />

go into making these beautiful<br />

rods, reels and nets.<br />

(p. 56)<br />


Photographer<br />

Cover<br />

It was an honor to work with<br />

the 1859 team for the first<br />

time. What a talented group of<br />

creatives. Their vision, style and<br />

direction made the shoot fluid<br />

and fun. Photographing a food<br />

prep shot was inspiring for me<br />

as one of my hobbies is baking<br />

pies. While shooting the cover<br />

we enjoyed local beer, shared<br />

conversations, ideas and a few<br />

bites of rock-hard peaches. My<br />

experience was memorable,<br />

and I look forward to my next<br />

opportunity to experience the<br />

1859 culture.<br />

(cover)<br />


Writer<br />

What I’m Working On<br />

My profile of Stephanie<br />

Whitlock and her work at the<br />

Architectural Heritage Center<br />

documenting African-American<br />

history in Portland grew out of a<br />

Twitter discussion with<br />

@ToriGlass and @AClooForYou.<br />

I would have never known about<br />

this project (which is, in my<br />

view, a cultural watershed for<br />

the city) without the comments<br />

and insight of our readers. Thank<br />

you for the conversation and<br />

for digging deeply into what it<br />

means to be an Oregonian.<br />

(p. 70)<br />


Photographer<br />

Adventure<br />

Fresh out of high school having no clue what I wanted to do, I took a photography<br />

class and found not only my passion, but a way to share the beauty of my<br />

surroundings with others. Back then, I always imagined how much cooler the image<br />

would be if there was someone fishing it. I added a fly rod and a few fishing buddies<br />

to my arsenal and decided to move where there was a bit more water to cover.<br />

(p.102)<br />

8 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>

Portland Monthly<br />

“Top Doctors” 2O16<br />

Organic chemist<br />

before becoming<br />

a surgeon<br />

Rain or shine hiker<br />

and trail runner<br />

Dr. Jordana Gaumond<br />

General Surgeon<br />

The Oregon Clinic<br />

oregonclinic.com/unique<br />

Top rated and down to earth.

Get your back...<br />

on track.<br />

If you suffer from neck, back or leg pain as a<br />

result of a spine condition, you may benefit from spine surgery<br />

using Mazor X robotic technology available in Oregon only<br />

at Asante Rogue Regional Medical Center.<br />

Compared to traditional surgery, minimally-invasive Mazor X<br />

technology lowers the risk of post-surgery complications,<br />

reduces the risk of radiation exposure due to fewer imaging<br />

scans, decreases the patient’s recovery time and results in<br />

less pain after surgery.<br />

Learn more at asante.org/MazorX<br />

Surgery provided by the neurosurgeons of Southern Oregon Neurosurgical & Spine Associates, of Medford. sonsa.org<br />


EDITOR Kevin Max<br />



DESIGN<br />










Sheila G. Miller<br />

Brooke Miracle<br />

Allison Bye<br />

Kelly Hervey<br />

Kara Tatone<br />

Isaac Peterson<br />

Cindy Miskowiec<br />

Stacey Goodman<br />

Kelly Hervey<br />

Jenny Kamprath<br />

Deb Steiger<br />

Thor Erickson<br />

Jeremy Storton<br />

Mike Allen, Melissa Dalton, Carly Diaz, Andes Hruby, Julie Lee,<br />

Lindsay McWilliams, Erick Mertz, John Riha, Felisa Rogers,<br />

Mackenzie Wilson<br />

Carly Diaz, Emily Green, Bradley Lanphear, Rick Obst, Bill Purcell,<br />

Jason Quigley, John Riha, Arian Stevens, Austin White<br />

Statehood Media<br />

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Suite 100-218 Suite 100<br />

Bend, Oregon 97702 Portland, Oregon 97209<br />

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photoCopy, reCording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media. ArtiCles and photographs<br />

appearing in 1859 Oregon’s Magazine may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the express written Consent of the publisher. 1859 Oregon’s Magazine<br />

and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these artiCles are not neCessarily<br />

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This issue of 1859 Magazine was printed by Quad Graphics on reCyCled paper using inks with a soy base. Our printer is a Certified member of the Forestry<br />

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standards. When you are finished with this issue, please pass it on to a friend or reCyCle it. We Can have a better world if we Choose it together.<br />

JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong> 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 11

EDITOR’S<br />

LETTER<br />

KEROUAC SAID IN HIS SEMINAL On the Road, “There was<br />

nowhere to go but everywhere, so just keep on rolling under<br />

the stars.”<br />

We are excited to announce the newest rolling member to our family—a<br />

25-foot-long Flying Cloud Airstream—after signing a content<br />

partnership with Airstream Adventures Northwest, the country’s<br />

largest Airstream dealership. As part of our agreement, Statehood<br />

Media explores the valleys and rivers, the forests and deserts of the<br />

Pacific Northwest and creates inspirational travel content around<br />

these experiences. We have charted more than twenty-five spots in<br />

Oregon, Washington and Idaho that we will hit over the next year.<br />

At the end of the year, we will publish the stories, the photos and<br />

the videos that we collected along the way. The stories on page 88<br />

of this issue represent the first installation in this partnership, with<br />

a collection of them to be published late next spring. We will keep a<br />

schedule on our website at 1859magazine.com/Airstream for those<br />

of you who want to come out and share an adventure or a drink with<br />

us under the stars.<br />

The Legacy of the Sawdust Circuit is an engaging history of an early<br />

baseball league in Oregon. Perhaps it is not well known because the<br />

tools for documentation were still primitive. Maybe it’s because they<br />

were so remote in pre-War Southern Oregon. It could also be due to<br />

its spectacle of vice with fighting, drinking and dubious commercial<br />

offerings. While other parts of America had Babe Ruth and Major<br />

League Baseball, Oregon had its own games in the state’s logging<br />

lairs. Take a trip back to this era and witness the birth of baseball in<br />

the West.<br />

Our Trip Planner settles on the bank of the Columbia Gorge in<br />

Hood River. Once (and still) the windsurfing capital of the country,<br />

the core of the Fruit Loop is branching out with more reasons<br />

for land-lubbers to visit. Lindsay McWilliams jumps in feet first to a<br />

weekend of culture and cuisine. See Trip Planner on page 106.<br />

Our musical act brings us to the rock sounds of Portland-based The<br />

Slants, or what the band calls “Chinatown Dance Rock.” Stylish and<br />

talented, these young Asian Americans keep cranking out melodic<br />

gems while fighting to keep their band’s name. The United States Supreme<br />

Court will rule on the trademark case in the coming months.<br />

In the meantime, catch our piece on The Slants, now out with a new<br />

album, appropriately called The Band Who Must Not Be Named.<br />

Few things bring more happiness to my palate than a grilled peach<br />

and a whiskey drink. Bring both into your dining room by venturing<br />

out to a u-pick orchard to make your own grilled peach salad and<br />

(homemade) ricotta (recipe on page 36). Never grill empty-handed,<br />

as it leaves you unbalanced and vulnerable. Our Rye Bliss cocktail<br />

from Bendistillery is a good way to bring balance back to your life.<br />

Pick up a copy of Bianca Bosker’s entertaining and interesting Cork<br />

Dork, a down-to-earth memoir of a tech journalist turned sommelier.<br />

I’m getting notes of levity and humor. Cheers!<br />

12 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>

My #GoodLifeGoal:<br />

early retirement<br />

The future isn’t so far away anymore. That’s why planning<br />

for it is more important than ever. As your financial<br />

partner, SELCO takes the time to understand your goals<br />

and guides you with one-on-one financial and estate<br />

planning, investment advising and trust services.<br />

Now the only thing left to plan is your retirement party.<br />

To begin planning, call 800-445-4483 or visit selco.org<br />

Nondeposit investment products and services are offered through CUSO Financial Services, L.P. (“CFS”), a registered broker-dealer (Member<br />

FINRA[finra.org]/SIPC[sipc.org]) and SEC Registered Investment Advisor. Nondeposit investment products offered through CFS are not NCUA/<br />

NCUSIF or otherwise federally insured, are not guarantees or obligations of the credit union, and may involve investment risk including<br />

possible loss of principal. Investment Representatives are registered through CFS. SELCO Community Credit Union has contracted with CFS<br />

to make nondeposit investment products and services available to credit union members.

1859 ONLINE<br />

More ways to connect with your favorite Oregon content<br />

1859magazine.com | #1859oregon | @1859oregon<br />

have a photo that<br />

shows off your oregon<br />

experience?<br />

Share it with us by filling out the<br />

Oregon Postcard form on our<br />

website. If chosen, you’ll win custom<br />

1859 gear and a chance to be<br />

published here.<br />

1859magazine.com/postcard<br />


Pickathon Music Festival<br />

photo by Mike West<br />

A cotton candy-colored sunset over Sparks Lake in the<br />

Deschutes National Forest.<br />

Liz Devine<br />


Experience Hood River in a new way, with aerial footage of all that this city has to offer.<br />

1859magazine.com/hoodriver<br />

Austin White<br />

Find out what makes Pickathon—<br />

an independent music festival in<br />

Happy Valley—different from the<br />

rest. 1859 writer Corinne Whiting<br />

takes a look at one of Oregon’s<br />

fastest-growing festivals, held out<br />

in the woods at Pendarvis Farm.<br />

1859magazine.com/pickathon<br />

JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong> 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 15

organic certified<br />

non-gmo verified<br />

fair trade ingredients<br />

Vegan<br />

# shareyourbliss<br />


NOTEBOOK 18<br />

FOOD + DRINK 24<br />

HOME + DESIGN 34<br />

MIND + BODY 54<br />


pg. 30<br />

The Polo Classic would not be complete without<br />

the appropriate attire.

notebook<br />

Tidbits + To-dos<br />

The Big Eclipse and The Big Eclipse<br />

Activity Book<br />

With the total solar eclipse making its rare<br />

appearance on <strong>August</strong> 21, the event is<br />

also an opportunity to teach youngsters<br />

about science and astronomy. Baker City<br />

author Nancy Coffelt’s The Big Eclipse<br />

children’s book and activity book explain<br />

the eclipse in a fun and interactive way.<br />

Follow animals through the United States<br />

as they chase the solar eclipse—and don’t<br />

forget to use the protective solar eclipse<br />

viewer found in the back of the book<br />

when viewing the sun!<br />

orbitoregon.org<br />

mark your<br />


Ewethful Fiber Farms & Mill<br />

Very few fiber mills exist in Oregon<br />

today, and the newest (and smallest)<br />

has just sprouted up in the small farming<br />

community of Halsey. Restoring a historic<br />

downtown building into a storefront,<br />

Kim and Mitch Biegler opened Ewethful<br />

Fiber Farm & Mill in <strong>2017</strong>. This family<br />

business provides processing services,<br />

sells local fibers and goods, and will soon<br />

host classes on spinning, knitting and<br />

crocheting.<br />

ewethfulfiberfarms.com<br />

A Plant-Based Summer Favorite<br />

Just in time for summer, Eugene’s vegan<br />

ice cream company Coconut Bliss has<br />

released another summer favorite: ice<br />

cream sandwiches. These plant-based<br />

treats use gluten-free chocolate chip<br />

cookies made with hemp seed to smash<br />

a scoop of dark chocolate or vanilla ice<br />

cream. All of Coconut Bliss’ ice creams<br />

are organic, dairy-free, soy-free and<br />

vegan. Find them in grocery stores<br />

across Oregon.<br />

coconutbliss.com<br />

18 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>

notebook<br />

PDX Coffee at Your Door<br />

Joining the trend of curated subscription<br />

boxes this year is the Portland Coffee<br />

Box, which gathers coffees from local<br />

micro-roasters, delivering them to you on<br />

a monthly or bimonthly basis. Partners<br />

include brands large and small, from<br />

well-known Portland Coffee Roasters to<br />

up-and-coming Tanager. Though roasted<br />

locally, coffees included come from all<br />

over the world, accompanied by artisan<br />

profiles and tasting notes.<br />

withlovefrompdx.com<br />

mark your<br />


mark your<br />


Gear Up for Oregon Rodeo Season<br />

Oregon’s rowdy rodeo season kicks<br />

off with the St. Paul Rodeo during<br />

Independence Day weekend and goes<br />

out with a bang at the famous Pendleton<br />

Round-Up in September. Mark your<br />

calendars to experience Oregon’s historic<br />

Western culture this summer.<br />

St. Paul Rodeo, St. Paul<br />

<strong>July</strong> 1-4<br />

Elgin Stampede, Elgin<br />

<strong>July</strong> 5-8<br />

Chief Joseph Days Rodeo, Joseph<br />

<strong>July</strong> 25-30<br />

Farm City Pro Rodeo, Hermiston<br />

<strong>August</strong> 8-12<br />

Pendleton Round-Up, Pendleton<br />

September 13-16<br />

Oregon Country Fair<br />

Hop on the bus in Eugene and head to<br />

the state’s hippiest event, the Oregon<br />

Country Fair, <strong>July</strong> 7-9. What started as a<br />

gathering of 3,000 in Veneta in 1969 has<br />

grown to a festival of more than 45,000<br />

people clad in tie-dye, flower crowns<br />

and body paint. The whimsical threeday<br />

event includes art displays, musical<br />

performances, craft booths and various<br />

parades.<br />

oregoncountryfair.org<br />

JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong> 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 19

notebook<br />

Musician<br />

The Slants<br />

A slanted point<br />

of view<br />

written by Isaac Peterson<br />


loops above a driving drum and<br />

bassline. The dance floor is already<br />

packed. The Slants’ lead singer, Ken<br />

Shima, wearing a slim suit and a skinny<br />

tie, tips the mic stand back to croon in<br />

a low melodic drawl.<br />

“Sorry if you take offense. Silence<br />

will not make amends. Don’t make<br />

the pen a weapon and censor our<br />

intelligence. No we won’t remain<br />

silent. It’s our defining moment. We<br />

sing from the heart.”<br />

It’s New Wave synth-pop that<br />

could have charted at #1 thirty years<br />

ago. The Slants modernize the genre by<br />

inflecting it with a hard punk edge. The<br />

songs have a faster tempo than their ’80s<br />

antecedents, and the lyrics are incisive<br />

and confrontational. They call their sound<br />

“Chinatown Dance Rock.”<br />

The song is called “From the Heart.” It’s not a<br />

love song, but an open letter to the United States<br />

Patent and Trademark Office, which refused to<br />

register the band’s name as a trademark in 2011<br />

on the grounds that “slant” is a derogatory<br />

term for people of Asian descent. The<br />

Lanham Act of 1946 prohibits<br />

trademarks for names that disparage<br />

or debase others. The Portlandbased<br />

band’s four members, Shima,<br />

Simon Tam, Joe X. Jiang and Yuya<br />

Matsuda, are all Asian Americans, and<br />

they feel their name is an act of re-appropriation<br />

and empowerment.<br />

The Slants have taken their trademark case to the United States<br />

Supreme Court this year. Briefs have been filed and oral arguments<br />

completed, and now they await a decision. The outcome of the case will<br />

be crucial to defining the First Amendment in the modern era. For Tam,<br />

a founder and bass guitarist, the case isn’t just about their band.<br />

“Ultimately, communities should have the right to determine what’s<br />

right for ourselves,” Tam said. “We shouldn’t have someone who has no<br />

connection to our group making decisions on what is or isn’t appropriate.<br />

It’s a fight that’s much bigger than our band. It’s about protecting civil<br />

liberties that are crucial to marginalized groups.”<br />

The Slants are made up of, from left, Yuya Matsuda, Ken Shima, Simon Tam and Joe X. Jiang.<br />

What’s the best way to wait for a Supreme Court decision? By playing<br />

concerts in support of their latest album, The Band Who Must Not Be<br />

Named.<br />

“We’re currently on a coast-to-coast tour, covering everything from<br />

Portland, Oregon, to Concord, New Hampshire, and dozens of cities in<br />

between,” Tam said. “In total, it’s about sixty appearances in forty-four<br />

days. After that, we come home for a couple of weeks before hitting the<br />

road once more.”<br />

20 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>

Magic Hex<br />

Maloy's offers a fabulous selection of antique and<br />

estate jewelry and fine custom jewelry, as well as<br />

repair and restoration services. We also buy.

notebook<br />

Bibliophile<br />

Super Somm<br />

Put down your Franzia<br />

and pick up Bianca<br />

Bosker’s new memoir,<br />

Cork Dork<br />

interview by Sheila G. Miller<br />

ADMIT IT. If you’re like most of us,<br />

you have no idea what peppery, jammy<br />

or dry means when it comes to wine.<br />

You may like drinking wine, but maybe<br />

you’re not sure quite why. In Cork Dork,<br />

Portland native Bianca Bosker walks us<br />

through the world of wine. Bosker, a<br />

tech journalist, quit her job to immerse<br />

herself in the elite sphere of sommeliers<br />

and their super sensory abilities.<br />

You spend a lot of this book talking<br />

your way into events and groups<br />

that you have no business being<br />

part of. You must be the most<br />

persistent person in America!<br />

Panic and desperation will get you<br />

very far. I think a good part of how<br />

that happened was quitting my job<br />

and finding that I had no option<br />

but to move forward. I had burned<br />

that bridge, closed that door, and<br />

the only way to not end up a failure<br />

drinking copious amounts of wine<br />

and tastings on Tuesday mornings<br />

was just to be dogged. Also, I want<br />

to tell people’s stories who want<br />

their stories told, who will let me in,<br />

who will give me access and who will<br />

share their time and what they know.<br />

So part of it comes from persistence<br />

and part of it was pairing up correctly<br />

with people.<br />

Did you have a book deal when you<br />

started this project, or were you just<br />

drinking and hoping?<br />

I knew I was going to write something.<br />

I have what is sort of a blessing and a<br />

curse that plagues a lot of journalists,<br />

which is that it’s hard to do anything<br />

without thinking about how it may<br />

inform a story. Nora Ephron has a<br />

great quote, “Everything is copy.”<br />

That’s not so far from my heart. So<br />

I went into this knowing I was going<br />

to write a book, but it was also<br />

something I was going to do one way<br />

or another, in the sense that, as I write<br />

about in the intro, this world of cork<br />

dorks really turned my life upside<br />

down in a very personally powerful<br />

way. If I had to spend another month<br />

at a screen writing what happened on<br />

other people’s screens, or looking over<br />

someone’s shoulder at a cell phone, I<br />

would have had a pretty public temper<br />

tantrum breakdown.<br />

Whenever I read a memoir I wonder<br />

how friends and family react to<br />

seeing themselves in print. Was it at<br />

all awkward for you?<br />

I was very up front and open with<br />

people about the fact that I was there<br />

in a reporting and research capacity. I<br />

think it’s very important to make that<br />

clear, and in general you have to be<br />

fair, period. You have to let people<br />

know what you’re there to do, and<br />

also at the same time a journalist’s<br />

role is understandably different than<br />

a publicist’s role. I’ve been really<br />

touched by some of the responses<br />

I’ve gotten from people who are in the<br />

book, who have said that even though<br />

there was maybe a quote here or there<br />

that they cringed at … they were<br />

so grateful and had so much<br />

22 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>

notebook<br />

admiration for the lens that I brought<br />

onto this world, by the fact that I shed<br />

light on an industry and culture that is<br />

very misunderstood.<br />

How did the greater wine world<br />

react to this book? I’ve seen some<br />

controversy surrounding it.<br />

Cork Dork deviates from the wine<br />

world script. The wine industry has<br />

some very romantic stories and some<br />

very entrenched, inherited wisdom<br />

that has existed for a long time, and<br />

that has served the industry quite<br />

well, that I tackle head-on in the<br />

book. I’m coming at it from a different<br />

perspective as someone who was a<br />

curious, open-minded, and in some<br />

cases, skeptical, outsider who became<br />

an insider. That allowed me to take<br />

a more objective stance. I brought a<br />

perspective that combines the soul of<br />

wine with the science of it, that looks<br />

at the high end<br />

and also the low<br />

end. And I think if<br />

calling BS makes some<br />

people uncomfortable, then<br />

so be it.<br />

One of the things you mention in the<br />

book is how as you trained, you were<br />

pretty much constantly intoxicated.<br />

Has that changed now that you’re<br />

done with the book?<br />

The book came out (in April), and I<br />

hadn’t expected to resume a lot of my<br />

heavy day-drinking or, I should say, day<br />

wine tasting. But I’ve been doing some<br />

interviews and a lot of people think<br />

they’ve come up with a very unique<br />

idea—“Maybe we should drink wine<br />

during the interview!” So there have<br />

been days where I have consumed,<br />

god, a dozen glasses of wine by 1:30<br />

p.m. Of course, I’m not drinking full<br />

glasses, but it’s a new challenge to<br />

figure out how to be coherent while<br />

being interviewed on the record.<br />

Before all of this, all I got out of wine<br />

was a little buzzed. Now it’s emotional,<br />

it’s intellectual. I have deep curiosities<br />

about certain bottles that I can’t wait<br />

to try.<br />

JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong> 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 23

food + drink<br />

Beerlandia<br />

Lagers: Beer with a backstory<br />

written by Jeremy Storton<br />


the Sisters Rodeo, a cowboy still covered in<br />

dirt limped up to me at the bar like he just<br />

pulled himself from under a bull. “Gimme<br />

a Buckskin,” he said. “Excuse me?” I replied.<br />

“A Buckskin,” he repeated. “What the hell<br />

is that?” I asked. He looked at me like I<br />

was an idiot and said, “Gimme a Coors”<br />

(pronounced like “Kers”). Whatever one<br />

calls the beer of our grandfathers, keep in<br />

mind one thing—craft beer would likely<br />

be nowhere without it.<br />

In the early nineteenth century,<br />

German brewers experimented with<br />

yeast that bottom fermented and really<br />

liked the cooler temperatures of alpine<br />

caves. In 1842 (seventeen years before<br />

Oregon became a state), brewers created<br />

a beer that would eventually take over<br />

the world in a Bohemian town in the<br />

Czech Republic. That town was Pilsen.<br />

Sound familiar?<br />

In post-Prohibition and post-<br />

Depression America, beer wasn’t much<br />

except it helped get our nation back<br />

on its feet. Lagers of old were light,<br />

delicate and perfect in a cold glass on<br />

a hot day. Nowadays, that same glass<br />

becomes downright interesting when<br />

we pour lagers such as Märzens, Bocks,<br />

Dunkels and Baltic Porters. Then there<br />

are Eisbocks, which will knock a drinker<br />

on his butt faster than he can say<br />

Saccharomyces Pastorianus.<br />

While the craft boom has allowed us<br />

to create new beers, it has also allowed<br />

us to resurrect old styles. This breath of<br />

new life and these hot summer days are<br />

perfect to enjoy the beer of our greatgrandfathers.<br />

Prost!<br />




Heater Allen — McMinnville<br />

Try the “Coastal” Vienna Style Lager (think<br />

Negra Modelo, but without the lime). Or try<br />

the Dunkel, because who doesn’t like a little<br />

chocolate and caramel in his lager?<br />

Occidental Brewing — Portland<br />

The Altbier is one of my favs. The malt is<br />

complex and balanced with spicy hops.<br />

Technically Altbiers use ale yeast, but ferment<br />

at lager temperatures.<br />

Crux Fermentation Project — Bend<br />

Crux Pils is like a classic German Pilsner just<br />

off the boat, without the weariness of a trip<br />

across the Atlantic.<br />

Buoy Brewing — Astoria<br />

Try the Helles and especially the Czech Pils.<br />

Both are far more flavorful than grandpa’s<br />

pale yellow suds.<br />

24 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>

Mount Angel Oktoberfest<br />

Welcome to Our Bavarian Family<br />

September 14-17, <strong>2017</strong><br />

www.oktoberfest.org<br />

Mount Angel, Oregon

Recipe Card<br />

recipe courtesy of<br />

Bendistillery<br />

Rye Bliss<br />

1 ½<br />

3-4<br />

2<br />

5<br />

ounces Crater Lake Rye Whiskey<br />

maraschino cherries<br />

lemon wedges<br />

ounces Ablis Thrive CBD Lemon Ginger<br />

sparkling beverage<br />

Muddle the<br />

maraschino<br />

cherries and one<br />

lemon wedge at<br />

the bottom of a<br />

rocks or Collins<br />

glass. Add ice,<br />

Crater Lake Rye<br />

Whiskey and Ablis<br />

Thrive CBD Lemon<br />

Ginger sparkling<br />

beverage.<br />

Gently stir and<br />

garnish with<br />

the second<br />

lemon wedge.<br />

Tasting the Vineyard<br />

in the Bottle<br />

written by Carrie Wynkoop of Cellar 503<br />

EVERY INDUSTRY HAS ITS TALENT scouts, the men and women<br />

who can spot quality before their competitors. When it comes to<br />

vineyards growing pinot noir, Jim Seufert was recognized as “a future<br />

star of Oregon wine” right from the start.<br />

Seufert Winery is a small production winery that flies under the<br />

radar, but pinot noir aficionados love Seufert’s approach—producing<br />

a half-dozen single-vineyard pinots every year using the exact same<br />

winemaking regimen on every wine. With a minimalist approach, he<br />

endeavors not to “work” the wines, so that the terroir, the climate and<br />

the season shine through.<br />

A fourth-generation Oregonian, Seufert’s love of this place is<br />

expressed in the wines that he makes. If you want to taste the difference<br />

between a Yamhill pinot and a Dundee Hills pinot, stop in at Seufert’s<br />

Dayton winery. As one critic wrote, you’re tasting “the vineyard in a<br />

bottle” at Seufert.<br />

Of course, his multiple-vineyard blends of pinot noir have also won<br />

praise, as he blends the nuances of flavor like an accomplished chef (and<br />

oh yeah, he’s one of those, too!).<br />

We’re excited to feature his white pinot noir again this year. It was<br />

such a huge hit with our club members last year that we’ve brought it<br />

back. The perfect wine for both white and red wine lovers during these<br />

hot days of summer.<br />

seufertwinery.com<br />

26 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong><br />

Join the 1859 Wine Club to explore more Oregon wines at:<br />


We live by one simple rule...<br />


follow Joe on the go<br />


winebyjoe.com<br />

Brewing Adventurous Ales in Bend, OR since 2011<br />

goodlifebrewing.com<br />

Honestly exceptional<br />

Pinot Noir<br />

enjoy our historic winery in downtown mcminville or<br />

relax on the garden terrace.<br />

open daily 11 am - 5 pm<br />

ElizabethChambersCellar.com ~ 503-412-9765<br />

from pinot noir to malbec, experience an outstanding<br />

collection of oregon wines at eugene’s original winery.<br />

open daily 12-5 pm<br />

SilvanRidge.com ~ 541-345-1945

Join<br />

1859<br />

join 1859 wine club and experience some of oregon's finest wines.<br />

CHoose crisp whites, jammy reds or a little of both.<br />

Sign up as a new club member this month, and your first<br />

shipment will be just $1.<br />


food + drink<br />

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT A young girl sports a painted face at the Polo Classic.<br />

Women enjoy a glass of wine before the games begin. The Polo Classic offers high-end<br />

whiskey and cigars for celebration.<br />

Gastronomy<br />

Oregon Polo Classic<br />

written by Julie Lee<br />


Oregon Polo Classic is a new spoke in<br />

the wheel of the Classic Wines Auction<br />

series, a charitable phenomenon that<br />

has raised more than $43 million since<br />

its inception and $3.5 million last year<br />

alone, assisting in the lives of more<br />

than 100,000 children and families<br />

through nonprofit partners while<br />

showcasing Oregon’s bountiful food<br />

and wine industry. The second annual<br />

event, benefitting Metropolitan Family<br />

Services, YWCA Clark County and<br />

Albertina Kerr, will be held <strong>July</strong> 22-23 at<br />

Hidden Creek Polo Club in West Linn,<br />

with a decadent catered lunch, heralded<br />

local wines at tasting<br />

stations, a whiskey<br />

and cigar lounge<br />

and, of course, polo<br />

matches. Saturday is<br />

family day with kids<br />

welcome to join in the<br />

fun. Championship Sunday is an<br />

adults-only event with champagne<br />

flowing and the time-honored<br />

champagne divot stomp on the docket.<br />

Seersucker suits optional; enormous<br />

fancy derby hats mandatory.<br />

oregonpoloclassic.com<br />

30 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>

food + drink<br />



It’s almost absurd what chefs can do with vegetables<br />

these days. The days of overcooked broccoli served<br />

as a banquet side are entirely outmoded. Portland<br />

is having an unannounced contest for who can<br />

do what with locally sourced vegetables, with<br />

numerous restaurants plating up some of the most<br />

beautiful and edible vegetarian dishes imaginable.<br />

Be sure to check out Tusk, recently named one of<br />

America’s ten most exciting new restaurants of the<br />

year by the prestigious Food & Wine. You’ll just<br />

need to see for yourself the magic chef Sam Smith<br />

can conceive with a radish.<br />

2448 E. Burnside St.<br />


tuskpdx.com<br />


There is something calming yet momentous<br />

about an old-school Italian joint. While so many<br />

restaurant newcomers mirror a similar image of<br />

chic and boutique, walking into Dino’s Ristorante<br />

Italiano is like stepping into a time machine and<br />

hitting a jackpot of authentic Italian fare, served in<br />

what feels like your grandmother’s dining room,<br />

white tablecloths and all. From veal scaloppine<br />

to eggplant parmesan to lasagna, these are<br />

traditional dishes, all delicious, all paired perfectly<br />

with some chianti wine. Not sure what to order?<br />

Our favorite place to start is the spaghetti<br />

bolognese. Fantastico!<br />

404 SE Jackson St.<br />


dinosristorante.com<br />


Dreaming of great seafood this summer? Albatross<br />

& Co. in Astoria serves up a tempting array of<br />

seafood specialties: seafood stew with a smoky<br />

tomato broth, oyster chowder poutine, clams and<br />

bucatini, and some scrumptious Dungeness crab<br />

deviled eggs. This is a small, rustic kind of place<br />

where you’ll want to start the night with some<br />

oysters and cocktails, then settle in and linger until<br />

last call.<br />

225 14th St.<br />


albatrossandcompany.com<br />

JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong> 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 31





The celebration commences at Arcane Cellars<br />

on the banks of the Willamette River on <strong>August</strong><br />

20, with an elegant dinner and live music during<br />

happy hour, dancing after dinner, and an eclipse<br />

presentation by Dr. Kemble Yates of Southern<br />

Oregon University. Morning festivities include a<br />

sit-down brunch. To memorialize the event, you’ll<br />

come home with a special release of Arcane<br />

Cellars Eclipse pinot noir.<br />

22350 MAGNESS RD. NW<br />

SALEM<br />

arcanecellars.com<br />



To commemorate this once-in-a-lifetime event,<br />

Eola Hills is going big, offering a farm to table<br />

winemaker’s soirée, a six-course lake-side dinner<br />

with chef Pascal Chureau. This scenic 160-acre<br />

property rests in the heart of Willamette Valley,<br />

with uninhibited views of the coast range and sky<br />

above. Live music with Nu Shooz, Patrick Lamb<br />

and Quarterflash will keep the party rockin’.<br />

501 S. PACIFIC HWY. 99W<br />


eolahillswinery.com<br />


With an 860-foot elevation and a 70-mile view<br />

in all directions, St. Innocent Winery offers an<br />

idyllic vantage point. Following the eclipse viewing,<br />

champagne corks will be popping, brunch will be<br />

catered by chef Bernard Malherbe of The Crooked<br />

House Bistro and celebratory libations will be<br />

pulled from the St. Innocent Winery archives to<br />

sip on all afternoon while playing Bocce.<br />

5657 ZENA ROAD NW<br />

SALEM<br />

stinnocentwine.com<br />


With jaw-dropping views of the Cascade Range<br />

and Willamette Valley floor, Brooks Winery is<br />

a special spot for experiencing one of nature’s<br />

grandest events. Brooks has a full day of festivities<br />

planned—outdoor morning yoga, a sparkling<br />

wine brunch and presentation by Professor<br />

Ethan Siegel, an astrophysicist from Lewis & Clark<br />

College, and an eclipse viewing with wood-fired<br />

oven pizzas paired with wine. If you’re itching to<br />

get a jumpstart on the fun, there’s an option to<br />

camp the night before in the vineyards with a<br />

BBQ supper, live music and vineyard walk with<br />

winemaker Chris Williams.<br />


AMITY<br />

brookswine.com<br />

Dining<br />

Bowery Bagels<br />

written by Julie Lee<br />


are Bowery Bagels. Located in the heart of<br />

downtown Portland, this little bagel shop<br />

pipes out some of the best New York-style<br />

Kosher bagels in the state. Founded by a<br />

transplanted New Yorker with an intent<br />

to replicate bagels fondly remembered<br />

from childhood, these hand-rolled gems<br />

are boiled in small batches after a long<br />

proof, then baked, creating the perfect<br />

light crunchy exterior and chewy interior.<br />

Strongly suggested for breakfast is a bagel<br />

with housemade Gravlax, salmon that is<br />

A smoked salmon bagel from Bowery Bagels.<br />

cured but not smoked, allowing for more<br />

of a pure salmon-flavored profile. Bowery<br />

Bagel owner Michael Madigan created<br />

a recipe for Gravlax that uses fresh dill,<br />

chopped fennel leaves and Clear Creek<br />

Distillery’s Eau de Vie of Douglas Fir vodka<br />

in its preparation. With cream cheese and<br />

red onion, centered on a seeded bagel, this<br />

is a little slice of New York.<br />

310 NW Broadway<br />


bowerybagels.com<br />

A glass of rosé and cheese platter at Brooks Winery.<br />

32 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>

Starting June 2<br />

nonstop<br />

EUG to<br />


home + design<br />

Farm to Table<br />

U-Pick Goodness<br />

Jossy Farms is<br />

the place for peaches<br />

written and photographed by Carly Diaz<br />

Fresh peaches<br />

at Jossy Farms.<br />

ON A WARM, DRY MORNING in early <strong>August</strong>, the<br />

orchards at Jossy Farms are quiet. A large barn is tucked<br />

between rows of trees and small wagons are lined up,<br />

awaiting the arrival of customers eager to fill them with<br />

fresh peaches. Owner Bob Jossy surveys the endless rows<br />

of trees, their low-hanging branches laden with ripe,<br />

yellow-orange fruit with just a hint of rosiness. It’s the<br />

height of summer and the ideal time for peach harvest.<br />

The absence of rain has turned the grass hues of yellow<br />

and brown and given the peaches the perfect conditions<br />

for growing.<br />

After the winter months, the arrival of spring with its<br />

abundance of strawberries is a sweet gesture to the changing<br />

season. By <strong>August</strong> the stone fruit season has arrived. It’s time<br />

for drip-down-your-arm juices while you attempt to slurp<br />

every last bit of summer. No elegance required.<br />

This 195-acre farm in Hillsboro has been in the Jossy family<br />

for nearly a century, but it wasn’t until 1972 that the Jossys<br />

planted their first peach orchards. The Jossys planted the<br />

u-pick orchards in 1979. Peach trees typically take<br />

about three years to begin producing fruit. By 1983,<br />

the farm was ready for its first u-pick customers.<br />

34 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>

home + design<br />

“I decided to begin offering u-pick<br />

because I thought it would work. And it<br />

did,” Jossy said. At that point, his father<br />

managed the farm for commercial<br />

accounts. The first u-pick orchard was<br />

named Megan, after Jossy’s daughter.<br />

Later, it was replanted and named after<br />

Megan’s daughter, Aubrey.<br />

In the mid-1980s, a crop disaster took<br />

out a significant amount of fruit, and<br />

Jossy knew there wouldn’t be enough<br />

peaches to offer both packaged peaches<br />

and u-pick to customers. That year, he<br />

decided to just offer u-pick and hasn’t<br />

looked back.<br />

Few summer activities are as<br />

grounding as visiting a farm and picking<br />

your own fruit, at least in the Pacific<br />

Northwest. “I distinctly remember one<br />

man saying he didn’t know why he had<br />

never done u-pick before, it was so<br />

much fun,” Jossy said. “It was how the<br />

poor man got his fruit, but now it’s the<br />

‘in’ thing to do.”<br />

The farm offers five types of peaches<br />

commonly found in the Willamette<br />

Valley: veteran peaches, red haven<br />

peaches, blazing star peaches, star fire<br />

peaches and vivid peaches. Each peach<br />

variety has a different ripening period<br />

character. Some are better for baking or<br />

canning, some are best fresh off the tree.<br />

In addition, Jossy Farms offers apples,<br />

pears, hazelnuts and walnuts. Hazelnuts<br />

are the largest crop at the farm and<br />

peaches the largest u-pick crop.<br />

The season typically begins the last<br />

week of <strong>July</strong> and lasts approximately<br />

forty days. “But it’s never the same,” Jossy<br />

explained. “Every year is different.”<br />

There are nearly 2,000 varieties of<br />

peaches in the world, with more than 300 growing<br />

in the United States. Peaches are native to China, which remains the<br />

top producer today. Peach trees can produced for around thirty years,<br />

though farmers such as Jossy typically don’t let trees go so long. “My<br />

new rule is never let a peach tree grow older than 18 years,” Jossy said.<br />

“They’re just not as productive as a young tree.”<br />

The extreme winter cold and excessive spring rain, however, hit Jossy<br />

Farms and the surrounding area hard this year. “We are essentially<br />

wiped out of peach trees,” Jossy said. “On January 11, we had between<br />

0-5 degrees in the area. When it got that cold, it killed an incredible<br />

amount of trees.” The cold reduced the ability of the trees to resist a<br />

bacterial disease commonly found in peach trees, and Jossy lost about<br />

90 percent of them.<br />

A scale for u-pick guests to weigh their bounty.<br />

“The trees are resistant when it’s warm,” Jossy said, “but the ones<br />

that didn’t die were affected by the cold, wet spring, which allowed<br />

the disease to continue to grow inside the tree. We’re going to lose<br />

even more trees.” Although he predicts the farm will still have the 10<br />

percent of remaning peaches available for u-pick this year, Jossy and<br />

his family will have to decide whether to replant the peach orchard.<br />

For a man who was raised on the farm, began running equipment<br />

when he was 10 years old and whose hands have touched nearly every<br />

aspect of the process, it’s a grim prospect to face. “They are a difficult<br />

tree to grow in Oregon," Jossy said, "but I didn’t think this would ever<br />

happen with the peaches."<br />

JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong> 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 35

home + design<br />

Oregon Recipes<br />

Palette-Pleasing<br />

Peaches<br />

Grilled Peach Salad<br />

MANZANITA / Blackbird<br />

Lee Vance<br />



½ gallon whole milk<br />

½ quart heavy cream<br />

3 cups buttermilk<br />

¼ cup salt<br />


2 ears fresh corn<br />

1 cup strained whey (reserved from ricotta)<br />

or saltwater<br />

1 teaspoon chili flakes<br />

¼ cup shallots<br />


1 slice levain or any rustic bread<br />

½ peach (grilled)<br />

1 small handful of arugula<br />

1/8 red onion, thinly sliced<br />

1/4 cup fermented corn<br />

1 tablespoon ricotta<br />

1/2 ounce apple cider vinegar<br />

1/2 ounce olive oil<br />

black pepper<br />

Blackbird's grilled peach salad.<br />

IN A LARGE POT, add milk, cream and buttermilk in that order. Set the flame to<br />

a low-medium heat. Stir ingredients. As the mix heats, use a rubber spatula to stir,<br />

scraping along the bottom to keep any cheese from sticking to the bottom of the pot.<br />

The tenderness of the ricotta depends on a lower, slower heat, so do not allow the<br />

mixture to reach boiling point.<br />

A raft of cheese curd should start to form at the top. Continue to run the spatula<br />

along the bottom of the pan occasionally. After 30 minutes or so, your mix may begin<br />

to simmer slightly, which is OK. Watch as the raft forms and the whey begins to clarify.<br />

Once the raft is formed and the whey is relatively clear, turn the flame off and let it set<br />

for at least an hour. Line a chinoise with cheesecloth and set over a large container. Pour<br />

whey into the cheesecloth, holding the cheese back to be placed in the cheesecloth last.<br />

Let drain overnight.<br />

Cut corn from the cob, mix with chili flakes and shallots and place in a small jar.<br />

Heat whey salt until the salt dissolves. Pour the liquid over the corn, making sure the<br />

corn is completely covered. Put a lid on the jar, turn upside down and mix so that any<br />

air pockets have been removed. Take the lid off and replace with cheesecloth, using a<br />

rubber band to secure the cheesecloth. Place in a moderately warm place away from the<br />

sun for one to two days. The warmer it is the faster it will ferment. Taste occasionally<br />

and place a lid on top and refrigerate once it reaches your desired level of sourness.<br />

Turn on the grill, then gather and prep your ingredients. Butter the bread and place it<br />

on the grill butter side down. Lightly coat the peach in olive oil and place face-down on<br />

the grill. While grilled items are cooking, place corn and onion in a mixing bowl.<br />

When the grilled items are good and marked, remove from the grill. Cut the peach<br />

into bite-size pieces and add it to the mixing bowl. Add arugula and season with salt<br />

and black pepper. Toss ingredients together, then add enough olive oil to coat. Add<br />

apple cider vinegar to taste.<br />

Spread ricotta onto the grilled bread, season with flake salt and black pepper. Drizzle<br />

with honey.<br />

For more summer peach recipes go to: www.1859magazine.com/recipes<br />

36 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>

Free Writing Prospectus (to Prospectus dated December 23, 2015, as Supplemented by the Prospectus Supplement dated May 3, <strong>2017</strong>)<br />

Filed Pursuant to Rule 424(b)(2) Registration Statement No. 333-208715<br />

Become a Winery Owner<br />

Join us as an Owner and help build a biodynamically<br />

farmed vineyard and winery near Dundee, Oregon.<br />

Preferred Stock offered at $4.45 per share,<br />

5% annual dividend ($1,557.50 min. investment).<br />

To obtain more information regarding the winery and<br />

an investment, please visit www.wvv.com/ownership<br />

or call 503-588-9463.<br />

Jim Bernau, Founder/Winegrower • Willamette Valley Vineyards<br />

8800 Enchanted Way SE • Turner, OR 97392<br />

503-588-9463 • stock.offering@wvv.com<br />

Willamette Valley Vineyards, Inc., has filed a registration statement (including a prospectus) with the SEC for the offering to which<br />

this communication relates. Before you invest, you should read the prospectus in that registration statement and other documents<br />

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home + design<br />

Home Grown Chef<br />

Peaches and<br />

Regalia<br />

written by Thor Erickson<br />

photography by Ashlee Pierce<br />

IT WAS THE SUMMER of 1995. One of<br />

my favorite bands was playing in Portland in<br />

<strong>July</strong>, on a rare day off from my job cooking in<br />

a restaurant. My aging Toyota pickup wasn’t<br />

running, though, and I needed a ride. After<br />

asking around, my friend Larry said he was<br />

going to visit his mother and pick peaches at a<br />

farm outside of Portland. “I’m in,” I said, “and<br />

I’ll help you pick the peaches, too.”<br />

We left Central Oregon shortly after dawn<br />

and got to the “u-pick” peach farm by midmorning.<br />

Thankful for the ride, I promptly<br />

climbed the ladder and start snapping the<br />

ripe fruit from the branches. Larry called up<br />

to me: “I’m going to pick up my mom. I’ll be<br />

back in twenty minutes.”<br />

I filled bucket after bucket of peaches. An<br />

hour went by, then two, and Larry hadn’t<br />

returned. Three and a half hours later, I heard<br />

a rumble in the distance. I looked up to see<br />

a cloud of dust coming up the road. As the<br />

throttling neared, I realized it was a group<br />

of bikers. As they got even closer, I saw that<br />

Larry was riding on the back of one of the<br />

motorcycles, his mom and her friends among<br />

the riders. They got off their bikes and began<br />

picking peaches with me. Larry’s car had<br />

broken down a few miles away and some of<br />

the other bikers were repairing the engine.<br />

I took a break to get to know some of my fellow<br />

pickers. I bit into one of the peaches. The juice<br />

ran down my face, and I was inundated with<br />

the most intense summer sweetness. I looked<br />

around to witness the sunburned, bearded,<br />

tattooed men closing their eyes in ecstasy at<br />

this pure taste of Oregon in <strong>July</strong>.<br />

As the hours went by, I realized I was not<br />

going to make it to the concert. The consolation<br />

prize, though, was a crate of peaches, which I<br />

held tight, riding on the back of a Harley back<br />

to Larry’s repaired car. On the drive back to<br />

Bend, I thought of a few ways to preserve that<br />

tree-ripened peachiness. Here’s one.<br />

40 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong><br />

Fresh Peach Sorbet<br />

Thor Erickson<br />

3 pounds fresh or frozen peaches<br />

1 lime (for 2 teaspoons freshly squeezed<br />

lime juice)<br />

1 cup sugar<br />

¼ teaspoon kosher salt<br />


Dice peaches, unpeeled. In a blender or<br />

food processor, combine peaches with<br />

lime juice and sugar and purée until<br />

completely smooth with no large chunks<br />

to produce about 1 quart of purée. Pour<br />

into a fine mesh strainer, pressing the<br />

purée through with a plastic spatula or<br />

ladle, into an airtight container. Add salt to<br />

taste. Press a piece of plastic wrap against<br />

surface of purée and chill in refrigerator<br />

for about two hours until cold.<br />

Churn in an ice cream maker according<br />

to manufacturer's directions. Transfer to<br />

a container and chill in freezer for about<br />

two to three hours until firm.

home + design<br />

"I bit into one of the peaches.<br />

The juice ran down my face, and<br />

I was inundated with the most<br />

intense summer sweetness ..."<br />

—Thor Erickson<br />

JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong> 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 41

home + design<br />

A Laidback Life<br />

Two Oregon homes designed<br />

for outdoor living<br />

written by Melissa Dalton<br />

Richard Romagnoli<br />

Rebuilding a Medford home with the<br />

outdoors front and center<br />


retirement bucket list. It included building a sustainable home on a few<br />

acres and spending as much time as possible outdoors, whether on skis,<br />

bikes or hiking through the woods. They wanted to live in a place with a<br />

"college-town feel" and cultural attractions. Since they were planning on<br />

relocating from Portland, they definitely wanted better weather. After<br />

considering Bozeman, Bend and the Big Island, a friend suggested they<br />

check out the Ashland area. When they did, they quickly realized it<br />

checked all their boxes. "We just fell in love," Steve Castellanos said.<br />

They found a 6-acre parcel with 300-degree views of mountains,<br />

wineries and the city of Medford, which was only a ten-minute drive<br />

away. "It was the perfect piece of property," Castellanos said. "But it had<br />

a house on it." Not only that, the 1970s house did more to block the<br />

incredible views than embrace them. Still, the site was too good to pass<br />

up, so the couple bought it with the intention to eventually rebuild.<br />

In doing so, their priority was to build thoughtfully and better connect<br />

the home to its setting. "We wanted to be mindful about the house's<br />

overall square footage," Castellanos said. "Yet still have a sense of<br />

abundance with the interior. Creating and connecting to outdoor spaces<br />

does that." In 2014, the couple teamed up with Jason and Kelly Eaton,<br />

co-owners of the design-build firm Conscious Construction. The firm's<br />

strength in sustainable construction and landscape architecture was an<br />

ideal fit. "Our approach, more than anything else, is making sure that<br />

the indoors ties to the outdoors and everything's complementing each<br />

other," Kelly Eaton said.<br />

To that end, once the old house was dismantled and its<br />

components recycled or donated, the Eatons fashioned a new<br />

42 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>

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home + design<br />

Richard Romagnoli<br />

FROM TOP The steel and cedar pergola. A counter makes outdoor eating a cinch.<br />

home where the boundaries<br />

between the inside and out are<br />

fluid. For instance, a 9-foot door<br />

in the living space folds open to<br />

outdoor lounging and eating<br />

areas, gracefully covered by two<br />

steel and cedar pergolas. A similar<br />

10-foot concertina window at the<br />

kitchen sink facilitates easy al<br />

fresco dinner parties. The long<br />

counter on the exterior side can<br />

be used for buffet or to return<br />

dirty dishes after everyone's<br />

done eating, making a separate<br />

outdoor kitchen unnecessary.<br />

Several "nooks and crannies"<br />

designed into the landscape<br />

beckon people outdoors.<br />

Meander down a winding path at sunset and there's an intimate<br />

seating area tucked away from the house's lights, creating the<br />

ultimate conditions for stargazing. On the south side of the house,<br />

another pair of seats stays toasty from the sun, making it a preferred<br />

spot for catching up with a book. And then there's the Bocce court,<br />

perfect for an afternoon game with friends and a cocktail in hand.<br />

Whether the couple is hitting the outdoor shower after a long<br />

bike ride or admiring the Medford city lights from the back patio,<br />

they're discovering how the new house lets them savor retired life.<br />

Said Castellanos: "It's one of those places where you don't have to do<br />

much to be content."<br />

Richard Romagnoli<br />

JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong> 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 45

home + design<br />

A Contemporary Retrofit for a<br />

Portland Mid-Century<br />

Bill Purcell<br />


coveted for the good features they offer, including spacious<br />

floorplans and big picture windows, they can also present some<br />

unique design challenges. Such was the case with the 1961 house<br />

that Jean Roque and her husband bought in southwest Portland<br />

in 2015. As was common to homes built in that era, the house's<br />

side and a detached carport faced the street, rather than the<br />

entry. "People would literally get confused when they tried to<br />

find the front door," Roque said. One food delivery driver called<br />

from the driveway to ask for directions. Not only that, the home's<br />

orientation made it so the entry sat right beside the couple's main<br />

outdoor living space. "We needed to create better privacy, so<br />

that when people did walk up they're not looking right into our<br />

backyard," Roque said.<br />

When the couple moved in, that same yard emanated a sad<br />

air of neglect. A hodgepodge of overgrown shrubbery and drab<br />

brown decking dominated much of the slope, while an enormous<br />

tulip tree rained sap on unsuspecting bystanders. An ugly lava<br />

rock fountain and makeshift arbor stuck out like a sore thumb.<br />

"It looked like we should be hosting weddings under it," Roque<br />

joked of the arbor's incongruity. None of it was conducive<br />

to entertaining or to the home's vintage style, so Roque asked<br />

Patricia Acheff, landscape designer and owner of Visionscapes<br />

Northwest, to intervene.<br />

Acheff 's to-dos were wide-ranging: create gathering areas<br />

and much-needed privacy, emphasize the front door, and make<br />

the overall tableau flow with the Mid-century architecture. Her<br />

solutions appear deceptively straightforward. First, she worked<br />

with contractor PGM Landscape to replace the ugly brown<br />

decking with a large patio bordered by a custom concrete<br />

retaining wall. The latter shores up the yard's slope, provides<br />

extra spots for guests to sit and defines the planting beds behind<br />

it. "When you look at it now, it looks pretty simple and clean,"<br />

Acheff said. "But I don't know how many truckloads of dirt they<br />

had to haul out to get there." A tight-knot cedar screen does<br />

double-duty, highlighting the front entry and fostering<br />

privacy. "It directs you to the front door and also blocks<br />

off the living space behind it," Acheff said.<br />

46 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>

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home + design<br />

Bill Purcell<br />

FROM LEFT Entrance to the Roque home with dividing wall. A view of the patio.<br />

The Roque family dining room.<br />

Bill Purcell<br />

Acheff played off the home's vernacular by specifying<br />

the patio pavers in a tight grid and using horizontal slats<br />

for the screen. Then Roque picked out low-slung furniture<br />

from Restoration Hardware in one of her favorite colors and<br />

a popular Mid-century hue: orange. For a finishing touch,<br />

Acheff pared back the existing shrubbery and wove in<br />

architectural plants, as well as grasses and conifers.<br />

Now, the Roques can use their backyard for relaxed<br />

weekend lounging or to host casual wine dinners with<br />

friends, as the new setup brings the best qualities of their<br />

house outside. "It's nice to be able to move from inside<br />

to outside and have it feel like an extension of the home,"<br />

Roque said.<br />

JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong> 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 49

home + design<br />

DIY Backyard Bocce<br />

Create your own backyard fun<br />

with a Bocce ball court<br />

Summer is the season of lawn games.<br />

Do as the Italians do and celebrate with<br />

a little Bocce ball. We asked Jason Eaton<br />

of Conscious Construction to share<br />

his method for installing the backyard<br />

Bocce court at the Castellanos home.<br />

Richard Romagnoli<br />

1.<br />


An official Bocce ball court measures 13 by 91 feet, but a backyard court doesn't need<br />

quite so much space—just enough to accommodate good throwing distances. Eaton estimated<br />

the Castellanos’ court is about 13 by 60 feet. Start by cutting away the sod or clearing the dirt<br />

in the designated area. Eaton excavated down a few inches to create a level base.<br />

2.<br />


Next, construct a basic frame. Eaton fashioned his with deck screws and pressuretreated<br />

6x6 timbers, which are rot-resistant. Then he drilled holes into the frame every four<br />

feet and inserted pieces of rebar. This stabilizes the frame and attaches it to the ground. Last,<br />

he attached strips of cedar to overlap the top of the frame, to give it a more finished look and<br />

serve as a ledge for drinks to rest.<br />

3.<br />


Inside the frame, cover the ground with a weed barrier to prevent their growth. Next,<br />

spread roughly six inches of 3/4 minus gravel and compact it. The gravel provides a hard, flat<br />

surface that drains well, as opposed to dirt. Check that the gravel is level, then add crushed<br />

oyster shell at a level of one-half inch, and smooth it out. The oyster shell is a Bocce game<br />

standard and provides a good surface for the balls to roll. It doesn't dent when the balls<br />

land.<br />

4.<br />

PLAY<br />

Now, pour some wine and enjoy a game. Saluti!<br />

50 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>

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home + design<br />

Stylish Outdoor Goods<br />

from Oregon Outfits<br />

Pretty up the table with the Catchall<br />

from Bend-based shop Steel Life. Just<br />

fill the powder-coated steel bowl with<br />

succulents, nestle it in the eye-catching<br />

walnut stand, and it's Instagram-ready.<br />

It's so attractive, you'll want to bring it<br />

inside for year-round enjoyment.<br />

shopsteellife.com<br />

Highlight a balcony or backyard<br />

pergola with the Disc String Lights<br />

set from Pigeon Toe Ceramics. Each<br />

bulb is sheltered by a porcelain shade,<br />

the interior of which can be glazed<br />

in the color of your choice. Strings<br />

come with either ten or twenty-five<br />

shades, and up to three strands can<br />

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complete illumination.<br />

pigeontoeceramics.com<br />

Made from A36 hot rolled steel in a sleek,<br />

modern shape, Stahl Firepits are meant<br />

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patina. The full-sized firepit is available<br />

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while the smaller version, called the<br />

Camper, lets you travel in style.<br />

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Combine the stylings of an aluminum<br />

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Loveseat from Revolution Design<br />

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JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong> 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 53

mind + body<br />

Irons in the Fire<br />

Betina Gozo sets sights<br />

on fitness stardom<br />

written by Sheila G. Miller<br />

BETINA GOZO IS THE KIND of woman<br />

you’d love to hate, but just can’t. She has<br />

a body to die for, a face to match, and to<br />

top it off, she’s a dancer who plays the bass.<br />

Come on. But it’s hard to hate someone<br />

who is kind and smart and works her tail<br />

off for the things she’s achieved.<br />

The Nike master trainer, who moved<br />

to Portland from Chicago in September,<br />

seems destined for greatness, thanks in no<br />

small part to her hard work. In addition to<br />

serving as a trainer on the Nike campus,<br />

doing one-on-one, athlete and group<br />

workouts and consulting with the brand<br />

team to develop content, Gozo founded<br />

her own training studio, Canvas Training,<br />

in Portland shortly after her arrival. She<br />

was recently named one of five finalists<br />

in the Women’s Health Next Fitness Star<br />

contest.<br />

Gozo came to the fitness world from an<br />

unusual background—she played bass in a<br />

band for five years.<br />

“I got into fitness so I could keep up with<br />

shows, so my shoulder didn’t hurt when I<br />

was playing three hours in a row,” she said.<br />

“Your body can get broken down if you<br />

don’t take care of it.”<br />

Working full-time playing in bars, at<br />

weddings and other events, Gozo thought<br />

she was in shape. “I could perform three<br />

hours with a bass guitar,” she said. “I<br />

thought I was in shape because I was a<br />

dancer. But weight-lifting? Game over.”<br />

As Gozo got into weight-lifting, and began<br />

to understand that it wouldn’t necessarily<br />

make her bulky, she became infatuated.<br />

“I loved the feeling of taking my body and<br />

making it change,” she said. “And I fell in love<br />

with making other people feel that. They<br />

think they can’t be strong, they think they<br />

can never do the things that I can currently,<br />

but they can.”<br />

The Nike campus is home to a lot of busy<br />

people. Gozo’s job: to keep them healthy so<br />

they can stay busy.<br />

“I train VPs, I train the general<br />

population, and my whole philosophy is<br />

54 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>

mind + body<br />

being able to incorporate tools that will<br />

help them lead a better life,” she said. She<br />

is adamant that it makes no sense to train<br />

office managers the same way she’d train<br />

an elite athlete.<br />

“I just want to help someone keep up<br />

with life,” she said. “I want to help them be<br />

able to keep up with their kids, to de-stress<br />

from work because their jobs are so crazy.<br />

A lot of trainers want to train athletes,<br />

but I feel like one thing I’m really good<br />

at is adjustable, scalable information that<br />

makes sense to people’s lives.”<br />

Her favorite method of getting people<br />

in shape is teaching them high-intensity<br />

total body movements that get the heart<br />

rate moving.<br />

“I want them jumping off the ground,<br />

jumping all over the place,” she said. “That<br />

burns the most calories, and it also gives<br />

them that moment of success after they’re<br />

done. They’re really, really tired.”<br />

Women’s Health announced June 27<br />

that Gozo is one of the magazine’s finalists<br />

for its annual contest to find The Next<br />

Fitness Star. The contest winners appear in<br />

the magazine, get a workout video series<br />

through the magazine, and become regular<br />

Women’s Health contributors.<br />

Five finalists compete, and the winner<br />

is named in <strong>August</strong>. Gozo pitched a highimpact<br />

workout that featured mobility.<br />

“Not yoga and stretching,” she clarified,<br />

“but movements that will keep you moving<br />

properly. If you’re not activating the<br />

right muscles you’re not moving the way<br />

you’re supposed to, so I try to incorporate<br />

movements that teach you to move the<br />

way you’re supposed to.”<br />

As though that’s not enough, Gozo is in<br />

the process of developing four e-books that<br />

will help people of all walks create fitness<br />

plans for themselves. The e-books will give<br />

readers an eight-week plan.<br />

“I want to get people to believe that they<br />

can do this stuff,” she said. “I think a lot of<br />

people look up to fitness instructors and<br />

think they can’t do that, ‘That will never be<br />

me.’ I want them to now that they can do it,<br />

they just have to put that work in. But it’s<br />

definitely something that can be done.”<br />

JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong> 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 55

artist in residence<br />

The Art of Oregon<br />

Fly-Fishing<br />

written and photographed by John Riha<br />


brawling its way through 215 miles of rocky chasms and<br />

rolling valleys, renowned for runs of salmon and steelhead<br />

that bring fly-fishing aficionados from all over the world.<br />

It’s not surprising, then, that the Rogue has also attracted<br />

some of the most talented fly-fishing gear-makers in the<br />

Northwest, artisans whose creations blend artistic style<br />

with incredible performance.<br />

Precision Engineering<br />

Bob Meiser began building rods when he was a kid in<br />

Wisconsin, rifling through the trash bins of a local rodmaking<br />

company for parts to cobble together his own<br />

“custom” fishing rods. Through stints in the military and<br />

a move to the Pacific Northwest to become a renovation<br />

contractor, those childhood impulses never left him.<br />

Today, he builds fly rods of sublime grace and beauty in<br />

his Central Point shop, creating some 400 rods per year for<br />

discriminating clientele who appreciate the quality of the<br />

R.B. Meiser Fly Rods brand.<br />

Although Meiser specializes in two-handed spey rods<br />

favored for fishing steelhead on the big rivers, he can<br />

make virtually anything. So precise is his methodology<br />

that clients can give Meiser the name of the river they<br />

intend to fish, the time of year and the intended fish<br />

species, and he’ll build a rod specifically to match<br />

that criteria.<br />

“It’s very targeted engineering,” Meiser said. “We use<br />

science to create rods that are poetic and lethal.”<br />

Engineering notwithstanding, Meiser knows matching<br />

a rod to a fly-fishing enthusiast can be more art than<br />

science. “It all comes from your gut,” he said. “All<br />

fishermen inherently have the ability to recognize a rod<br />

action they prefer, and everyone is different.”<br />

A Vietnam vet, Meiser has worked with Project<br />

Healing Waters and other veterans’ help groups to build<br />

specially designed rods for those with prosthetics and<br />

other limitations, often donating rods and<br />


It’s the most beautiful<br />

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artist in residence<br />

“It’s very targeted engineering ...<br />

We use science to create rods<br />

that are poetic and lethal.”<br />

—Bob Meiser<br />

FROM TOP A gold and green Bauer reel. A green Bauer reel.<br />

Finely Tuned Machines<br />

JON BAUER IS A TRANS-AM CHAMPION race car driver<br />

who turned his love of race cars into building finely machined flyfishing<br />

reels. With tolerances that are fractions of a human hair and<br />

spectacular anodized finishes, Bauer fly reels are the gold standard.<br />

His patented concept of a large-arbor reel and one-way clutch has<br />

revolutionized the fly-reel industry. A relentless innovator, Bauer<br />

has a passion for continued improvements fueled by building<br />

better and better race cars. “I’m not influenced by what’s been<br />

done before,” he said, “and I love precision.”<br />

Bauer grew up in Southern California where he fished in<br />

Santa Barbara Harbor as much as he could. Eventually, he<br />

took to fly-fishing in the trout streams of the Sierras and<br />

“never picked up a spinning rod again.”<br />

As his career as a driver wound down, Bauer took to highend-spec<br />

machining and started to tinker with fly-reel design<br />

on the side. In the early 1990s, his love of fly-fishing and<br />

backpacking trumped his desire to be in the race-car business,<br />

and he and his wife moved to Ashland to raise their daughters<br />

in a healthy community and be close to the clear, clean rivers of<br />

Southern Oregon.<br />

Although Bauer recently sold his business to<br />

Winston Rods in Montana, Bauer-branded reels are still<br />

manufactured and designed in Southern Oregon using<br />

the same tolerances and precision specifications.<br />

JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong> 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 59

artist in residence<br />

“Each is made of walnut and<br />

maple that Bill Bittle handpicks<br />

with a critical eye for straightness<br />

and grain patterns.”<br />

PNW Landing Nets are tough and beautiful.<br />

A Family Tradition<br />

SOUTHERN OREGON NATIVES Bill Bittle and his son,<br />

Ryan, began building wooden landing nets three years ago<br />

after Bill retired as a carpenter and furniture-maker. The time<br />

was right, they decided, for turning their shared love of fine<br />

woodworking and fly-fishing into an entrepreneurial father-son<br />

venture.<br />

“My dad taught me how to fish,” Ryan said, recalling trips<br />

to Lake of the Woods and nearby mountain lakes. “Eventually<br />

we got into swinging flies. Growing up, I was always hanging<br />

around his shop at home and loved handmade stuff. So building<br />

wooden landing nets was just a natural combination for us.”<br />

The Bittles’ business, PNW Landing Nets in Medford, makes<br />

landing nets as tough as they are eye-catching. Each is made of<br />

walnut and maple that Bill Bittle handpicks with a critical eye for<br />

straightness and grain pattern. Strips of the woods are steambent<br />

and laminated to form rims and handles featuring striking<br />

bands of dark and light wood. The laminate construction gets<br />

an extra boost of strength from a waterproof glue that Bittle<br />

designed himself specifically to hold up in harsh outdoor<br />

conditions.<br />

“It’s tough as steel,” Bittle said, “and 100 percent waterproof.”<br />

The nets are sealed and finished with seven coats of<br />

polyurethane, each coat sanded glass-smooth with 500- to 600-<br />

grit paper before the next coat is applied. The Bittles strive for a<br />

flawless aesthetic, and each of the more than 150 nets they send<br />

out the door annually is meticulously checked for the slightest<br />

defect. A fish-friendly rubber net bag completes each gleaming<br />

landing net.<br />

“They’re guaranteed for life,” Bittle said. One of the special<br />

things about the business is getting to work with his son.<br />

“It’s very enjoyable,” he said. “We’ve always shared the same<br />

interests.”<br />

60 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>

Kendrick Moholt<br />

STARTUP 64<br />

WHAT’S GOING UP 66<br />




pg. 78<br />

Wallowa Resources has revitalized an area decimated by the timber<br />

industry’s decline.

startup<br />

Bend’s CeaBikinis<br />

are Best<br />

Hand-sewn suits<br />

gain cult following<br />

written by Mackenzie Wilson<br />

photography by Victoria Carlson<br />

THINGS THAT SELL OUT in a matter of minutes: the newest<br />

iPhone, tickets to an Adele concert and CeaBikinis.<br />

Hand-sewn by 24-year-old Christina Evert, CeaBikinis are<br />

almost impossible to get your hands on. A cult following swarms<br />

her Etsy store whenever she opens. Evert sells thousands of her<br />

bikinis on the site and only opens her shop once every month<br />

and a half.<br />

“For the past year, I’ve been selling out in fifteen minutes,”<br />

she said.<br />

A true one-woman operation, CeaBikinis are all designed,<br />

sewn and shipped by Evert out of her home office in Bend. She<br />

started the business while going to the University of Hawaii at<br />

Hilo. That’s where she first experienced the thrill of the sale.<br />

During a test in marine biology her senior year, Evert’s phone<br />

wouldn’t stop buzzing.<br />

After class, she opened her phone and saw the notifications<br />

were from Etsy. “I had pages and pages of orders and I was like,<br />

holy crap,” Evert remembered.<br />

She’d only really been trying to sell on the site for about six<br />

months. In 2015, her grandmother passed away, leaving sewing<br />

equipment to Evert’s family. She spent the summer in Oregon<br />

before her senior year of college teaching herself to sew.<br />

Evert wanted to design a bikini that would fit her body.<br />

“Everything was made so tight. I have a pretty curvy body. I wanted<br />

something that looked seamless and smooth and didn’t just fit<br />

those tiny, surfer-girl bodies, as cute as those are,” Evert said.<br />

CeaBikinis don’t have any wires or padding. Her bottoms were<br />

what she first created and are still her best-seller. She credits their<br />

popularity to how they fit the natural shape of a body. Most bikinis<br />

have elastic around the bottoms, but Evert’s designs are more like<br />

64 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>

startup<br />

CeaBikinis bottoms<br />

are a best-seller.<br />

Richard Romagnoli<br />

Christina Evert<br />

inherited sewing<br />

equipment from her<br />

grandma.<br />

seamless underwear. “The bottoms<br />

are my go-to,” Evert said. “It’s like<br />

your favorite jeans. I don’t want to<br />

do much to change them because I<br />

haven’t reached for another pair of<br />

bottoms in three years.”<br />

The tops are where she<br />

experiments—she described her<br />

design process as “trial and error”.<br />

Evert didn’t go to fashion school. She studied business at the<br />

University of Hawaii before switching majors to communications<br />

so she’d have more time to surf and work on CeaBikinis. The<br />

company was growing so quickly, the lessons she was learning in<br />

business school seemed intangible.<br />

“I was doing things on my own and the numbers were real,” Evert<br />

said. “The marketing had an end point, not just a grade to it.” In<br />

2015, she graduated with a bachelor’s degree in communications.<br />

“It made me realize every sale was going to a real person,” she<br />

said. “I still e-mail every single person back.”<br />

While many companies have a dedicated social media person,<br />

Evert sees posting on outlets like Instagram as a break from work.<br />

Laying out pieces and photographing them reminds her why she<br />

spends hours hunched over her four sewing machines. “It gives<br />

me a little bit of pride of ownership to see it (bikinis) actually laid<br />

out. I get excited the way the customers do,” Evert said.<br />

The way she sells her bikinis is unconventional. Instead of<br />

making a bunch of bikinis ahead of time, then opening her Etsy<br />

store, Evert lets her customers choose a style and fabric then<br />

custom-makes them. “It keeps it exciting for me because it’s<br />

always something different.”<br />

Big brands dream about her extremely loyal customers. Evert<br />

said some are so dedicated that they tell her when lookalike<br />

suits pop up on Etsy. “They probably have as many or more<br />

swimsuits than I do,” she said. She’s thought about hiring people<br />

or outsourcing to keep up with the demand, but neither felt right.<br />

Her current situation gives her the best of both worlds. “I get to<br />

be creative, clock in and out when I want and sometimes that<br />

means working on the weekends, but sometimes it means taking<br />

two weeks off to go hike the Inca Trail with my sister,” Evert said.<br />

CeaBikinis is experiencing a classic, entrepreneur conundrum—<br />

the tug between business growth and lifestyle, where sewing<br />

bikinis is a long way from wearing one on a beach vacation.<br />

JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong> 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 65

what’s going up?<br />

Food Halls<br />

The new foodie trend in Portland<br />

written by Sheila G. Miller<br />

Alan Weiner<br />

Portland’s Pine Street Market opened in 2016.<br />

66 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>

DRINK IT IN.<br />

wake up to<br />

Purchase your limited edition* mug at 1859magazine.com/shop today!<br />

*Available until <strong>August</strong> 31, <strong>2017</strong>

what’s going up?<br />

Alan Weiner<br />

ABOVE Patrons inside Portland’s Pine Street Market. LEFT Wiz Bang Bar, one of several food options inside<br />

the food hall, serves up tasty treats such as this dipped ice cream cone.<br />

Carly Diaz<br />


food court. Now erase that image<br />

entirely, because Portland’s latest<br />

food trend is upscale, artisan and<br />

convenient—the city now counts at<br />

least five food halls, and other Oregon<br />

cities are sure to get on board soon.<br />

Food halls—typically large spaces<br />

with a variety of food purveyors in<br />

stalls or carts—have long been popular<br />

in Europe, but the U.S. has seen an<br />

uptick in the past few years, first in<br />

New York, Chicago and L.A., and now<br />

smaller cities like Portland.<br />

There’s Pine Street Market, a<br />

10,000-square-foot spot in downtown<br />

that opened in 2016 and features<br />

nine stalls, including Salt & Straw’s<br />

experiment in soft-serve, Wiz Bang<br />

Bar. Add The Zipper and The Ocean<br />

to the mix, both micro-restaurant<br />

projects in NE Portland from the<br />

same developer. Portland Mercado<br />

offers a variety of Latino foods and<br />

other cultural storefronts. Newest to<br />

the game is the Portland Food Hall,<br />

which opened in late April just a third<br />

of a mile down the street from Pine<br />

Street Market.<br />

Count on these spots to make<br />

your next Portland meal a bit more<br />

eclectic.<br />

JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong> 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 69

what i’m working on<br />

Stephanie Whitlock<br />

Documenting African American<br />

heritage in Portland<br />

interview by Isaac Peterson<br />

Stephanie Whitlock is the new executive<br />

director of the Architectural Heritage Center<br />

in Portland, a nonprofit that seeks to conserve<br />

the art, craft and context of historic buildings<br />

and places in an effort to promote the city’s<br />

cultural heritage. She’s currently overseeing<br />

a unique collaboration that traces significant<br />

African American historic resources in<br />

Portland. Funded by a grant from the Oregon<br />

State Historic Preservation Office (SHPO), the<br />

project documents properties important to the<br />

city’s African American heritage.<br />

How did the project come to be?<br />

Did the concept come from the<br />

AHC or from the city?<br />

With the support of the SHPO grant,<br />

last year the city made a public call<br />

for a consultant for an eight-month<br />

project to document sites associated<br />

with the African American experience<br />

in Portland that are significant to the<br />

city’s history. The AHC was selected<br />

by the city to work on this project.<br />

We’ve organized exhibitions, tours,<br />

and curricula for third-graders on the<br />

subject, and most notably, in 1995 we<br />

researched and published Cornerstones<br />

of Community: The Buildings of<br />

Portland’s African American History,<br />

which was updated in 1998 to be a 225-<br />

page book.<br />

Why is this project important for<br />

Portland?<br />

The buildings and places that are part of<br />

the city’s African American history have<br />

in general been underrepresented in<br />

local and national historic designations.<br />

This project works to change that by<br />

laying the groundwork for what we<br />

hope will lead to some designations<br />

with the National Register that will help<br />

raise awareness of these structures and<br />

protect them into the future. The city<br />

has had a complicated history with its<br />

African American population. Urban<br />

redevelopment projects in the mid-<br />

20th century led to the displacement of<br />

African American communities and the<br />

destruction of homes, neighborhood<br />

businesses, churches and other<br />

institutions. Over the decades the city<br />

has lost so many historic buildings to<br />

demolition. It continues today at a very<br />

rapid pace, so it’s important that we<br />

document the architecture we have and<br />

try to protect it. If this project can help<br />

save some buildings, that’s a huge win,<br />

but at least we will have a record of what<br />

we may lose.<br />

Have you uncovered elements of<br />

African American history in the city<br />

that surprised you?<br />

When the project began in 1995, the<br />

Cornerstones project identified about<br />

300 buildings associated with African<br />

American individuals, institutions<br />

and events. However, as that research<br />

expanded, 1,284 standing buildings were<br />

70 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>

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what i’m working on<br />

The Vancouver Avenue First Baptist Church has been a significant<br />

center for African American history in Portland since the 1950s; it was<br />

listed on the National Register just last year. The church was more<br />

than a place of worship—it also served as an important civic space<br />

or even safety net for the black community. It was where many social<br />

and political grassroots movements took shape, especially during<br />

the Civil Rights Era. The church hosted many prominent visitors, like<br />

national NAACP leaders and Martin Luther King Jr., who delivered a<br />

sermon there in 1961 and was memorialized there in 1968.<br />

discovered. This current project works to<br />

refine that number further. This relates to<br />

something else that many do not realize,<br />

which is that African Americans lived<br />

all over Portland, not just in the Albina<br />

neighborhood. It was after 1919, when the<br />

Realty Board of Portland refused to sell or<br />

give loans to blacks and other nonwhites to<br />

buy houses in white neighborhoods that a<br />

larger enclave started to develop in Albina.<br />

How do you approach the research?<br />

What is your archive base?<br />

One interesting source the team is using<br />

is title company records, which help<br />

determine home ownership patterns, such<br />

as whether African Americans were having<br />

new houses built or buying previously<br />

owned houses. When the original research<br />

was done in the late 1990s, Internet-based<br />

sources were not available, so Cathy and<br />

the team had to do a lot of driving to check<br />

on which properties existed. While today<br />

we have online sources such as Google<br />

maps to assist with the work, they are<br />

not always accurate and the fast rate of<br />

demolitions taking place still necessitates<br />

personal visits to addresses. They never<br />

know what they will find: a standing<br />

building, an empty lot or new construction.<br />

The research is racing against the clock, so<br />

to speak.<br />

Have you been able to gather any<br />

information from interviews of longtime<br />

neighborhood residents?<br />

People’s stories, family records and<br />

photographs provide us with valuable<br />

information and oral histories about a<br />

neighborhood and its buildings that we<br />

might not otherwise know, like who lived<br />

in what house, who went to what church,<br />

or how the design of a structure belies its<br />

actual use. A great example of this is the<br />

Otto and Verdell Rutherford house in the<br />

Albina neighborhood, which is now listed<br />

in the National Register. This circa-1905<br />

bungalow was the site of some radical<br />

activism. The dining room was where the<br />

NAACP Federal Credit Union started<br />

and the Rutherfords were cranking out<br />

letters on a mimeograph machine in their<br />

basement.<br />

When your project is completed,<br />

what will change for property owners<br />

who want to submit to the National<br />

Registry of Historic Places?<br />

Our project takes a general approach<br />

and documents the history, themes, and<br />

trends of the African American built<br />

heritage in in Portland, but it lays the<br />

groundwork for individual owners who<br />

wish to use it to submit their particular<br />

properties for consideration to the<br />

National Register. The data from this<br />

project will be posted publicly on the<br />

State Historic Preservation Office website<br />

for all to access.<br />

JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong> 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 73

my workspace<br />

My Workspace<br />

StumpTown Kilts<br />

written by Andes Hruby<br />

photography by Bradley Lanphear<br />

If clothes make the man then kilts suggest the<br />

wearer has a corporeal level of confidence.<br />

StumpTown Kilts is a destination location in<br />

Portland. Appointments are encouraged but<br />

there are Saturday store hours at the makers<br />

space Manifestation Warehouse. Within<br />

the studios is hipster couture you can’t find<br />

downtown: kilts.<br />

Over a decade ago<br />

an adventurous<br />

group of gentlemen<br />

embraced their<br />

Scottish heritage<br />

and began a<br />

journey to find<br />

ventilated comfort<br />

amid performance<br />

pleats—not fleece—<br />

in Oregon. Amid<br />

a dozen friends, a<br />

few beers (or kegs),<br />

sixteen prototypes,<br />

shredded materials<br />

and a basement<br />

covered in chaos,<br />

StumpTown<br />

produced its first<br />

¼-inch pleated<br />

4-yard prototype.<br />

In 2014 the team streamlined into two main<br />

warriors: John McClain and Todd Michael<br />

Altstadt. McClain used his steel and welding<br />

techniques to accessorize the kilt with<br />

function. Altstadt attended venues and<br />

festivals to get the word out about their<br />

boutique mission: real men wear skirts.<br />

74 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>

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my workspace<br />

The StumpTown Kilt is sewn with<br />

a nod to the historical transition of<br />

the Great Kilt (originally banned by<br />

the British) into the modern Scottish<br />

Army Kilt of 1796. The handmade<br />

kilt has adjustable snaps to expand<br />

or shrink several sizes depending on<br />

seasonal girth (or a good meal).<br />

StumpTown offers enduring elegance with<br />

respect to traditions, but it’s also a modern<br />

contemporary option for diverse walks of life.<br />

StumpTown is not a fickle fashion item: the kilts<br />

are built to endure weather, wading, washing,<br />

cloaking, fatigue, and with a chuckle McClain<br />

and Altstadt explain, there is always the<br />

freedom to go “regimental” (read: undie-free).<br />

JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong> 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 77

game changer<br />

Hope in the<br />

Wallowas<br />

One nonprofit is helping<br />

revitalize timber country<br />

written by Felisa Rogers<br />

photography by Kendrick Moholt<br />

ABOVE Kim Phelps works on his family ranch.<br />

Wallowa Resources promotes and supports<br />

ranches like these —at one point the nonprofit<br />

created a program that hired locals to work on<br />

horseback hazing elk herds off the property<br />

and back into forests.<br />

FAR RIGHT A log deck at an integrated biomass<br />

site created at the location of a closed lumber<br />

mill with help from Wallowa Resources.<br />

78 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>

game changer<br />

IN 1994, PROTESTERS tarred and feathered effigies of two local<br />

environmentalists and hanged the figures in downtown Joseph.<br />

The anger was born of anxiety. Sawmills were closing, jobs were<br />

evaporating, young people were leaving, and many residents<br />

blamed changes in federal environmental policy, which now<br />

prioritized habitat restoration over Wallowa County’s traditional<br />

sources of income—timber harvest and ranching. The Timber<br />

Wars were in full swing, forestry jobs were disappearing, and<br />

environmentalists were seen as the enemy.<br />

Today that anger is less palpable, but the rural economic<br />

situation remains largely depressed and depressing. While<br />

Oregon’s cities thrive, rural communities still haven’t recovered<br />

from the most recent recession—or the one before it. In many<br />

small towns, the prevailing feeling is that the economy no longer<br />

has ups and downs—it just sinks down, and then down again.<br />

Isolated in the far northeastern corner of the state and<br />

historically dependent on the timber industry and ranching,<br />

Wallowa County (population 7,000) should be one of the most<br />

depressed regions in Oregon. But Wallowa County has hope.<br />

The current mood of rejuvenation and optimism stems<br />

from seeds that took root in those dark days following the mill<br />

shutdowns and protests, when county leaders called people<br />

together to talk about the massive job hemorrhage. This<br />

conversation led to the formation of Wallowa Resources, a<br />

grassroots organization dedicated to revitalizing the county’s<br />

resource-based economy. The nonprofit would have a profound<br />

effect on the county’s trajectory from hotbed of resentment to<br />

model of rural revitalization.<br />

Its success is rooted in the firm belief that rural communities<br />

are a wise investment. Wallowa Resources director Nils<br />

Christoffersen has a master’s degree in forestry and an<br />

international résumé, but his work experience reflects a bluecollar<br />

bent. From an Australian sheep station to a commercial<br />

fishing boat off the coast of Norway, Christoffersen has always<br />

gravitated to remote areas. While working in Zimbabwe and<br />

Tanzania, he was inspired to see rural communities transformed<br />

when the government allowed local people an active role in<br />

environmental stewardship. He returned to the United States to<br />

look for a community that wanted to solve its own problems.<br />

He found it in the Wallowa mountains and rangelands, where he<br />

was invited to join a fledgling nonprofit that had the unenviable<br />

task of helping reimagine the county’s economy.<br />

Despite internal resentment toward environmental<br />

regulation, Wallowa Resources wasn’t blinded to the need to<br />

adapt and diversify. As Christoffersen explained,<br />

“We couldn’t cling to the past. We needed to<br />

recognize that markets had changed,<br />

that technology, public<br />

values, and policies had<br />

changed. We needed<br />

to embrace emerging<br />

science about forest<br />

ecosystems … and figure out how to maintain our social, cultural<br />

and economic relationship to the land. This led to the concept of<br />

a stewardship economy.”<br />

This focus on social, economic and environmental<br />

sustainability resulted in an array of ambitious projects, including<br />

integrated watershed restoration; an outdoor school program<br />

for kids; management of one hundred forty U.S. Forest Service<br />

campsites that had been scheduled for closure; partnering<br />

with ranchers to control noxious weeds; investment in smallscale<br />

hydro projects; and an integrated biomass company that<br />

employs twenty-four people, who transform the byproducts of<br />

forest restoration into chips, poles, and pest-free firewood. The<br />

facility actually converts its own waste into energy that powers<br />

the compound’s production systems.<br />

So how can a thirteen-person team accomplish so much in a<br />

relatively short period of time? Instead of taking on every project,<br />

they focus on building partnerships and supporting businesses<br />

and institutions that have good ideas for creating jobs, cutting<br />

costs and rehabilitating the land. For example, the nonprofit<br />

encouraged the Enterprise School District to adopt an energyefficient<br />

biomass boiler system.<br />

To assist the schools, Wallowa Resources conducted the initial<br />

feasibility assessment, drummed up community support for the<br />

plan and helped the school get technical and financial assistance<br />

to build the wood-fired heating system, which lowers carbon<br />

emissions while cutting the school’s operating costs by more<br />

than $75,000 a year.<br />

Today Wallowa Resources supports fifty-four jobs in the<br />

county—about the same number of jobs lost when the last<br />

mill closed. Around 80 percent of these jobs are private sector.<br />

Instead of hiring seasonal work crews directly, the organization<br />

prefers to encourage small business by opening the doors to<br />

contractors. And it’s working. To date, Wallowa Resources has<br />

brought more than $21 million to the county.<br />

But it’s not just money. The outdoor education programs<br />

have improved school science scores, while partnerships with<br />

local farmers have led to efficient irrigation systems—reducing<br />

energy consumption and leaving more water in-stream. “More<br />

important than our direct jobs impact is the creative momentum<br />

we contribute. Improved morale, optimism, and hope—the<br />

sense that we can do something positive to counter prevailing<br />

trends of the 1990s,” Christoffersen said.<br />

This momentum is actually drawing people to Wallowa—<br />

the county has seen an increase in K-12 enrollment, which<br />

is exceedingly rare in rural areas. And it’s not just the human<br />

population that’s growing. Restoration efforts in the<br />

Lostine River have upped the fish count. Last fall,<br />

around 3,000 chinook returned<br />

to spawn—up from<br />

thirteen in 1996.<br />

JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong> 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 79




Oregon may not have a Major League Baseball<br />

team, but our baseball history is rich<br />

written by Erick Mertz<br />

photos courtesy of Coos History Museum<br />

IF YOU SQUINT HARD ENOUGH, you can almost force the asphalt to<br />

fade away and replace it with a battered territorial road. Picture a sawmill<br />

off in the grassy distance. Follow the gentle billows of smoke as they rise<br />

and vanish into gray sky.<br />

Open the window—you can still smell fresh cut wood in the air.<br />

The knotty hills and hollers along Highway 42’s looping path between<br />

Roseburg and the southern Oregon coast beg dormant<br />

imaginations from their slumbers. They force a glance over the<br />

shoulder as far back as a generation or more.<br />

JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong> 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 81

The boys from<br />

Bandon, some highschool<br />

age, were all<br />

smiles.<br />

For the better part of a halfcentury<br />

spanning settlement to the<br />

early twentieth century, the Sawdust<br />

Circuit delivered a unique brand of<br />

barnstorming baseball to southwestern<br />

Oregon. The informal league forged<br />

bonds between the communities<br />

of people who settled this area and<br />

infused the future national pastime<br />

with a pioneer spirit.<br />

The term “sawdust circuit” comes<br />

from outside baseball. Originally, it was<br />

an idiom indicating a route taken by a<br />

traveling evangelist preacher. Around<br />

the turn of the nineteenth century, the<br />

knight of the road was still a vivid figure<br />

in small-town American life. Traveling<br />

vaudeville and circus shows came<br />

around a couple of times each year.<br />

Salesmen would arrive on the morning<br />

train with showcases full of tantalizing<br />

new products, new shoes, fabrics<br />

and snake oils. This time ushered in<br />

an entire lexicon around traveling<br />

vagrancy, hobos and drifters. Much<br />

like religion and commerce, baseball<br />

used to come and go as temporary<br />

respite on Sunday afternoons.<br />

Accounts of baseball’s barnstorming<br />

era are scarce. Most historians gloss<br />

this chapter over, perhaps because it<br />

is too obscure or it lacks the glamour<br />

of later eras. Consequently, much<br />

of what survives from the Sawdust<br />

Circuit comes in bits and pieces, a<br />

periodic re-gathering of faded pictures<br />

and yellowed paper. What is there<br />

has been pieced together slowly over<br />

time, attic by attic and family archive<br />

by family archive. The Sawdust<br />

Circuit is a people’s history without<br />

established chronicle, only derived<br />

through reassembly.<br />

The present-day data-heads who<br />

track baseball minutiae won’t find<br />

much to analyze in this ramshackle<br />

oral history. Player greatness is<br />

anecdotal. The Paul Bunyan-esque<br />

feats of strength have been passed<br />

down without box score or stats—we<br />

hardly even know the player names,<br />

except when scrawled into a postcard.<br />

The ball fields found in the Sawdust<br />

Circuit hardly resemble the Europeaninspired<br />

castles of their big city<br />

counterparts. There was no Ebbets Field<br />

along the muddy banks of the Coquille<br />

River. Instead, the game was played on<br />

makeshift diamonds, and attendees sat<br />

in wooden bleachers constructed in a<br />

semi-circle behind home plate. There<br />

were no dugouts. Players stood side by<br />

side, fans looking over their shoulders<br />

at the developing play. There were<br />

no groundskeepers to mow and tend<br />

to the weeds that cropped up in the<br />

outfield, though someone was on duty<br />

to extinguish fires, often started when<br />

errant cigarette or pipe ash sparked<br />

82 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>

No groundskeepers on duty<br />

meant one person was<br />

on fire duty.<br />

in the dry grass or the tinderbox<br />

bleachers themselves.<br />

Looking back at the pictures, it is<br />

the omissions we first notice—no<br />

light towers looming over the field,<br />

no concourses. There wasn’t always<br />

a proper outfield wall to serve as the<br />

boundary demarcating in play or out. An<br />

old faded photo reveals an outfield lined<br />

with men wearing suits and women in<br />

flamboyant hats sitting on blankets.<br />

The unlucky fielder would circle around<br />

under the ball, bearing slurs and taunts<br />

from the hecklers for whom admission<br />

came with a right to wreck havoc. A few<br />

yards behind first base, horses graze in<br />

the shadow of a barn.<br />

On a postcard dated October 11,<br />

1898, the Norway Baseball Team poses<br />

in front of a split rail fence on the<br />

morning before a game. The nine men<br />

are all of medium height and medium<br />

build, wearing stern expressions that<br />

could hardly be mistaken for a smile.<br />

In another surviving team picture,<br />

the boys from Bandon are all smiles,<br />

linked arm in arm like brothers. A few<br />

of them appear small—one looks to be<br />

no older than high-school age. As long<br />

as the player could throw the ball, run<br />

and hit, and didn’t have chores that<br />

demanded attention, he was fair game.<br />

These players were rugged, hardly what<br />

we would call, by today’s standards,<br />

athletic. Players throw harder now. They<br />

hit the ball farther. Looking at these<br />

boys, it’s not hard to see why.<br />

Most striking again, however, are<br />

the omissions.<br />

There are no black faces. We see<br />

none of the Latino and Asian players<br />

that define today’s international game.<br />

Baseball has often been called an<br />

immigrant’s game, and these boys are<br />

indeed immigrant sons, sired from a<br />

generation of pioneers that crossed<br />

the unexplored country on the Oregon<br />

Trail. The heyday of the Sawdust<br />

Circuit existed more than half a century<br />

prior to Jackie Robinson breaking<br />

the color barrier in 1947. A highly<br />

competitive Negro league cropped up<br />

in communities all across the country,<br />

but the history of black barnstorming<br />

players is segregated from white, just<br />

like the professional game was.<br />

The ball teams were often formed<br />

out of the places where men worked.<br />

Around 1912, there was a prominent<br />

team from the coalmine camp up in<br />

Beaver Hill. The Coos River teams were<br />

comprised mostly of local farmers. The<br />

teams took nicknames, some curious<br />

and some familiar. The Blue Ridge<br />

Tigers came from the McDonald and<br />

Vaughn logging camps. The Powers<br />

Cubs had two baby bears as<br />

their mascots. In a uniquely<br />

Oregon twist, there was a team<br />

JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong> 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 83



written by Beau Eastes<br />


has never lacked for star power or drama.<br />

From John Spain’s controversial 1911<br />

saddle bronc victory that inspired Ken<br />

Kesey’s last novel to Don Requa’s nearly four<br />

decades of dominance on Friday nights, the<br />

historic stadium in downtown Pendleton<br />

has witnessed more than 100 years of blood,<br />

sweat and tears from some of the top bronc<br />

riders, bulldoggers and prep football players<br />

to ever compete in Oregon.<br />

It also played host to a pair of future Hall of<br />

Famers in 1915 during an only-in-Pendleton<br />

doubleheader that featured a “baby Round-<br />

Up” rodeo and an exhibition game between<br />

barnstorming Major League Baseball players.<br />

On Nov. 13, exactly a month after the<br />

Boston Red Sox won the 1915 World Series,<br />

the Bancroft Tour rolled into Pendleton on<br />

a morning train from Baker. Named after<br />

organizer Fred Bancroft, a Cincinnati Reds<br />

executive and Civil War veteran, the group<br />

of American and National league all-stars<br />

were greeted at the train depot by hundreds,<br />

according to The East Oregonian.<br />

Baseball was a big deal in Pendleton—the<br />

World Series had competed with the ongoing<br />

war in Europe for A1 headlines in the daily<br />

paper. In fact, the minor league Pendleton<br />

Buckaroos won two pennants in three years<br />

in the Western Tri-State League—the league<br />

consisted of teams from Boise, Baker, La<br />

Grande, Walla Walla and Yakima—before it<br />

folded after the 1914 season.<br />

Highlighted by aging star Johnny Evers<br />

and Max Carey, who would retire as the<br />

National League’s career steals leader, the<br />

Bancroft all-stars traveled by stagecoach<br />

with much fanfare from the train station<br />

to the Pendleton Hotel to eat and change<br />

before the festivities started at the Round-<br />

Up grounds.<br />

Originally intended as a bit of a welcoming<br />

stunt for the visiting players, the “baby<br />

Round-Up” so mesmerized the ballplayers<br />

they refused to warm up until it was over.<br />

“John Spain rode Angel, Benny Corbett<br />

rode Nut Cracker and there were several<br />

who didn’t ride very long,” the paper<br />

reported the following Monday, providing<br />

evidence that saddle bronc riders have long<br />

had a sense of humor about their jobs. “[The<br />

mini Round-Up] was not much for one who<br />

has seen a real Round-Up, but it certainly<br />

scored a home run with the ball boys.”<br />

Led by Carey, Evers and left-handed<br />

pitcher Hippo Vaughn, a borderline Hall of<br />

Famer himself, the NL all-stars topped their<br />

American League rivals 7-3. In retrospect,<br />

the AL team was wildly outgunned compared<br />

to those on the NL roster, with only Yankee<br />

first baseman Wally Pipp providing any real<br />

star power for the younger league. Whether<br />

it was the demanding travel schedule—<br />

the teams had played twenty-one games<br />

in nineteen cities over the previous thirty<br />

days—or maybe a late night in Baker, the<br />

play in Pendleton wasn’t particularly sharp.<br />

The American Leaguers made seven errors<br />

and played uninspiring ball, according to<br />

The East Oregonian.<br />

“Harper [the AL pitcher] was not alone<br />

responsible for the defeat,” the paper<br />

reported. “His teammates made seven<br />

very ordinary errors behind him, the very<br />

kind Pilot Rock and Pendleton and Athena<br />

sometimes make, and one of the Americans<br />

pulled a bonehead by walking off his base<br />

just as sometimes happens in the brush<br />

around here.”<br />

After finishing up in just eighty minutes,<br />

the players packed up their warclubs and<br />

caught an evening train to Umatilla, where<br />

they then boarded the Portland-Spokane<br />

flyer to Seattle.<br />

“Though the game was not excited or<br />

brilliant, the local fans were not sorry they<br />

attended,” The East Oregonian concluded.<br />

“They had an opportunity seeing some of the<br />

most famous players in the country in action<br />

and there were enough special features to<br />

make the contest worth the money.”<br />

84 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>

Sometimes fields didn’t<br />

have proper outfield walls.<br />

organized from one of the local fish<br />

hatcheries.<br />

Players were not organized. No one<br />

was paid a salary, at least not much.<br />

The most money changing hands over<br />

a game likely came in the form of a<br />

wager between two owners, or well-todo<br />

fans seated out on the berm. Local<br />

mogul Al Powers once offered a $5<br />

reward for the first homerun hit in his<br />

park, eventually given to Myrtle Point<br />

banker Harry Dement, who was said<br />

to have cranked the ball a mile. Edwin<br />

Charles “Snake Charmer” Tomlin was<br />

a pitcher for the Portland Beavers of<br />

the Pacific Coast League, which at the<br />

time was considered a high-quality<br />

professional league. Tomlin traveled<br />

through Riddle to look at property<br />

on one of his days off when someone<br />

thought it would be a hoot if he suited<br />

up for the local barnstorming team.<br />

The opponent would be none the wiser.<br />

A colorful character, Tomlin took the<br />

offer, hitting a homerun and dazzling<br />

opponents with his pitching before<br />

getting in his car and driving back<br />

home. Those opposing farmers likely<br />

didn’t know what hit them. During the<br />

Depression, near the end of the Sawdust<br />

Circuit, players from the newly formed<br />

Civilian Conservation Corps camps<br />

would suit up against local loggers who<br />

wore the same overalls on the field that<br />

they wore to work. Accounts of these<br />

games described them as particularly<br />

rough and tumble, often ending in<br />

fisticuffs that garnered cheers as hearty<br />

as homeruns.<br />

Sunday baseball came with the<br />

promise of big bands and barn dances<br />

following the games. Wide-eyed fans<br />

brought their own food. Certain<br />

women were known to give a fresh,<br />

home-baked pie to players who hit<br />

a homerun, a welcome bonus that<br />

surely would not go wasted. Games<br />

were often advertised in handbills and<br />

flyers and newspapers with honest,<br />

simple promises such as “A good time<br />

is assured.”<br />

Schedules in the Sawdust Circuit<br />

were scattershot and travel difficult<br />

for both players and fans. Wagon and<br />

car rides got teams across relatively<br />

short distances. In <strong>August</strong> 1916, a rail<br />

connection between the south coast<br />

and Eugene was established. Trains<br />

made longer distances easier, though<br />

not by much. Fans often went by boat.<br />

On Sunday mornings, baseball fans<br />

would line up on the river docks to<br />

board sternwheelers heading up the<br />

Coquille River to McKnight Field near<br />

South Fork. Typically 400 revelers<br />

would get on the Dispatch with picnic<br />

baskets in hand; sometimes as<br />

many as 150 would travel on<br />

the Telegraph.<br />

JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong> 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 85

The Marshfield team in<br />

an undated team photo.<br />

The end of the Sawdust Circuit is as<br />

ambiguous as the rest of its history.<br />

Its dissolution ties in with many<br />

other societal trends, all happening<br />

concurrently.<br />

Industrialization and wars forced<br />

rural America to reinvent itself, and<br />

no town was immune. Churches<br />

formalized. The traveling salesman was<br />

replaced by the downtown department<br />

store and later, the mail order catalog.<br />

Baseball was evolving as well. The<br />

national pastime remained as popular<br />

as ever during the tenuous years<br />

between World Wars; how the sport<br />

was delivered to its rabid audience,<br />

however, changed radically. Up until<br />

this point, big-city newspapers would<br />

give World Series play-by-play updates<br />

via telegraph. A town crier would then<br />

read the results to the patient crowd of<br />

waiting fans. Radio modernized that.<br />

Within a few years of the end of the<br />

Great War the World Series found its<br />

way onto the airwaves.<br />

As more locals had radios available<br />

to huddle around and listen to the<br />

exploits of mythic players like Babe<br />

Ruth, the audience for the iterant<br />

brand of baseball winnowed away.<br />

The Sawdust Circuit managed to<br />

hang around a little longer than<br />

most barnstorming leagues, perhaps<br />

because of southwestern Oregon’s<br />

relative isolation from large cities like<br />

Portland and San Francisco, but by the<br />

time America entered World War II, it<br />

was gone for good.<br />

Part of the tragedy in the demise<br />

of barnstorming baseball is how it<br />

coincides with the decline of small<br />

town cohesion. Rather than growing<br />

up with a determined vision of fleeing<br />

the farm, young people rooted for<br />

neighboring farmers, clad in their<br />

town’s jersey.<br />

The fields where the Sawdust Circuit<br />

thrived are today, for the most part,<br />

overgrown, fallow or paved over.<br />

Norway, Oregon is an anachronism<br />

now, aside from a few antique<br />

reminders. There is no town of Blue<br />

Ridge anymore. City softball leagues<br />

organize company teams, but aside<br />

from loyal wives and husbands and<br />

a few bored kids, it hardly stands as<br />

entertainment.<br />

Some chapters of history, once<br />

closed, stay closed.<br />

A few sawmills remain in southwest<br />

Oregon. They kick up the same aromatic<br />

dust and deeply satisfying industrial<br />

cacophony that once defined the whole<br />

region. Passing through these hills that<br />

cling tightly to their secrets, you have to<br />

look a little closer to see the remnants<br />

of that legacy. Narrow your eyes a bit.<br />

There may just be a game up around the<br />

bend.<br />

86 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>





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Notes from the Flying Cloud<br />

A meandering tale of Airstream<br />

adventures in the Pacific Northwest<br />

written by Kevin Max<br />

TTHE ROAD TRIP IS A STATE of mind. Expectations range from<br />

epic tales of pioneer wagon trains to station wagons and Chevy<br />

Chase. In literature, we dust off our sense of rugged individualism<br />

and get On the Road with Jack Kerouac. We’ve pined to reach new<br />

highs with Ken Kesey and his magic bus, Further. Whatever the<br />

destination, in the final mile of any road trip, you rarely take the<br />

trip you thought you were going to take.<br />

I hooked up an Airstream and resolved to dedicate most<br />

weekends over the next twelve months to finding new experiences<br />

in the wilds of the Northwest. My wife made a list. My daughters<br />

packed bags. My head was in a Silver Cloud.<br />

Until this summer, my family’s typical road trip took on the<br />

redolence of a zoo. The minivan was packed to the windows and<br />

smelling of the prior trip. Was it camping at the coast or trekking<br />

in the Steens? Maybe just a ham sandwich.<br />

On the opposite end of the spectrum, the Flying Cloud Airstream<br />

is 25 linear feet of beauty dressed in a silver pencil skirt. It sleeps<br />

four easily—five if you push it—has a full shower, a separate WC, a<br />

full kitchen and a dining area.<br />

It’s tempting to channel the bravado of Airstream’s<br />

founder, Wally Byam, when whistling down the open<br />

road—good-looking, a war veteran and Stanford graduate.<br />

88 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>

McKenzie River and<br />

Belknap Hot Springs<br />

Young Byam, in the early twentieth century, tended sheep in<br />

Eastern Oregon near Baker City. He soon began to devise a better<br />

warming hut for cold nights at the base of the Blue Mountains. By<br />

the 1930s, Byam had moved into production with the trailer that<br />

would soon become a symbol of American adventure and the envy<br />

of anyone with good taste and yearning for travel.<br />

After signing a partnership with<br />

Airstream Adventures Northwest<br />

in May, we would have the honor<br />

of sharing Byam’s dream and<br />

Kerouac’s journey. “Nothing<br />

behind me, everything ahead<br />

of me, as is ever on the road,”<br />

Kerouac wrote as he launched<br />

into the heart of a post-Whitman<br />

America. “The best way to get to<br />

know your Airstream is to use it,”<br />

wrote the author of the Newbies<br />

Guide to Airstreaming. Stay<br />

close to home in case anything<br />

goes awry on the first Airstream<br />

foray. I took this advice to heart,<br />

remembering the last time I did<br />

anything like this.<br />

I borrowed my friend’s new<br />

van camper for an easy jaunt to<br />

the coast. Before my family was<br />

four hours into the trip, we had<br />

broken the recline mechanism<br />

on the driver’s seat, snapped<br />

the latch to the refrigerator and<br />

left the awning to be shorn in a<br />

coastal wind. As I drove out of<br />

the parking lot at the Airstream<br />

dealership and made my way to<br />

the McKenzie River, I was beset with trepidation and determination<br />

to not repeat my errors. Was the hitch properly hitched? Does the<br />

width fit the width of the traffic lane? Is this really happening? Just<br />

a few more miles to Belknap Springs, where Sarah and her Swedish<br />

friend, Kristina, would be expecting me.<br />

They had just finished taking road bikes out on the McKenzie<br />

Pass Scenic Bikeway, a 76-mile out-and-back from Belknap Springs<br />

to Sisters that is one of fifteen scenic bikeways in Oregon. This was<br />

a pre-summer Wednesday, before the pass opened to vehicles.<br />

Sarah and Kristina, however, have the ability to gab, seemingly<br />

without breathing, on hill climbs while covering topics ranging<br />

from current events and old gossip to upcoming adventures and,<br />

of course, the odds of my unscathed arrival.<br />

I felt like Homer returning<br />

from his Odyssey as I pulled the<br />

aluminum trailer into Belknap<br />

Hot Springs. The lodge is a classic<br />

log and timber construction. The<br />

springs were developed into a<br />

large pool adjacent to the lodge.<br />

Most of the resort dates back to<br />

the 1860s when Rollin Simeon<br />

Belknap, originally a Vermonter,<br />

discovered the salt springs and<br />

laid claim to them with the<br />

intention of building a health<br />

resort.<br />

For my health, all I wanted was<br />

a good drink after a half-dozen<br />

attempts to reverse into the<br />

trailer slot. Some campers looked<br />

on in amusement and disdain,<br />

smirking from the shadows of<br />

their awnings and hoping I would<br />

fail. Then there are those people<br />

who want you to succeed. “Can I<br />

help?” A tan gentleman in board<br />

shorts, flip flops and a T-shirt<br />

stepped out of the lodge. He has<br />

had multiple Airstreams over the<br />

years and was happy to share his<br />

experience.<br />

That night we grilled wild Alaskan salmon and oysters that I had<br />

packed back from Pike Place Market the day before. I opened a<br />

bottle of Oregon pinot noir and a rosé from Paso Robles, courtesy<br />

of the fellow Airstreamer. Ah, camping.<br />

Lying in bed that night, I listened to the McKenzie roar<br />

past our camp on its 90-mile trek to the Willamette. The<br />

McKenzie River Trail keeps 26 miles of adventure under its<br />

JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong> 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 89

well-preserved canopy in the Willamette National Forest. Many call it one of<br />

the best mountain bike journeys in the country. Thankfully its remote location<br />

keeps the trail clear of amusement park warriors. “Is there a Stawr-bucks<br />

nearby?” Pair this trail with a stunning road ride on the McKenzie Pass or the<br />

Aufderhiede – a ride that passes Cougar Reservoir and on to Oakridge—and<br />

you have the terrain for a two-wheel fantasy weekend.<br />

We camped well that night on high-thread-count sheets and got an early<br />

jump on the encroaching heat of the morning. We set out on a trail run,<br />

slashing through sunlight piercing the forest canopy. After 8 miles,<br />

we were back for a quick soak and ready to get back on the road.<br />

CLOCKWISE TOP LEFT Crossing the McKenzie on a trail run. A soaking<br />

pool at Belknap Hot Springs. Snag a riverside spot if you can. Wild-caught<br />

salmon and oysters.<br />

90 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>

Eat. Drink. Play.<br />

GUIDE<br />

Eat<br />

Belknap Hot Springs River Grille (Summer only)<br />

McKenzie Bridge General Store<br />

Drink<br />

McKenzie Bridge General Store<br />

Play<br />

McKenzie Pass Scenic Bikeway (road<br />

biking)<br />

McKenzie River Trail (mountain biking,<br />

trail running)<br />

McKenzie River (fishing)<br />

McKenzie River Rafting<br />

McKenzie Rafting (mckenzierafting.com)<br />

Ouzel Outfitters (oregonrafting.com)<br />

High Desert River Outfitters<br />

(highdesertriver.com)<br />


Soak in the hot springs<br />

at Belknap. Ride, run or<br />

fish some portion of the<br />

McKenzie.<br />


Cold Spring Campground<br />

Paradise Campground<br />

Scott Lake Campground<br />

Limberlost Campground<br />


Yes<br />


Electric and water<br />


Spotty, but adequate<br />

near the lodge.<br />


Most of the Belknap Hot<br />

Springs Resort dates<br />

back to the 1860s when<br />

Rollin Simeon Belknap,<br />

originally a Vermonter,<br />

discovered the salt<br />

springs and laid claim to<br />

them with the intention<br />

of building a health resort.<br />



(For Salmon & Oysters)<br />

2 pounds wild-caught salmon<br />

4-8 Pacific oysters<br />

2 lemons<br />

Salt<br />

(Serves 4)<br />

(For Israeli Cucumber Couscous Salad)<br />

2 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil<br />

1 cup Israeli couscous<br />

6 to 8 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, to taste<br />

¼ cup chopped fresh mint<br />

½ pound ripe tomatoes, very finely chopped<br />

¾ pound diced cucumbers<br />

1 bunch scallions, finely chopped<br />

Salt to taste<br />


Grill these on a small tag-along hibachi. Salt<br />

the salmon generously and grill until center<br />

starts to flake when forked, approximately 10-<br />

12 minutes. Serve with a lemon wedge. At the<br />

same time, place oysters on the grill. Continue<br />

to grill until the oyster opens. If an oyster does<br />

not open, do not attempt to pry open and eat.<br />



In a medium pot, heat 2 tablespoons of olive<br />

oil. Add couscous and stir to coat with oil.<br />

Cook for a couple of minutes or until couscous<br />

smells toasted. Pour in 2 cups of water and<br />

bring to boil, then decrease to a simmer and<br />

cover. Cook for 10 minutes or until al dente.<br />

Drain and let cool.<br />

In a large bowl combine mint, tomatoes,<br />

cucumber, scallions and lemon juice. Once<br />

couscous is cool, fold the mixture into the<br />

couscous. Salt to taste.<br />


WINE<br />

Rosé: Elk Cove Pinot Noir Rosé<br />

Red: Chateau Ste Michelle Artist Series<br />

White: Eyrie Vineyards Chardonnay Estate 2015<br />

Bubbles: Argyle Vintage Brut 2014<br />

BEER<br />

Cascade Lakes Blonde Bombshell<br />

Ninkasi Hop Cooler IPA

From the McKenzie River, we headed to Oregon’s pie filling—<br />

Hood River. Cherries, apples, raspberries, strawberries, blueberries<br />

and rhubarb are abundant in Oregon’s Fruit Loop.<br />

By now, Kristina was miles high on an intercontinental flight<br />

home to Stockholm. Into the breach stepped Fiona and Isabel, our<br />

teenage daughters.<br />

None of us knew what lay ahead as we drove north to Hood<br />

River for the Memorial Day weekend. For once, none of us really<br />

cared.<br />

Friends of friends, Megan Davis and Clint Harris, have a horse<br />

property in the rolling hills above Hood River. We had mountain<br />

bikes in back as we marveled at the bumper-to-bumper stream of<br />

vehicles heading the opposite direction to Central Oregon.<br />

By evening, the kids were hungry as we pulled into Parkdale,<br />

essentially a small social hub for the surrounding orchardists.<br />

There’s a barbeque joint called Apple Valley BBQ and Solera,<br />

a brewery with locally sourced food, good IPAs and an outdoor<br />

dining area that backs up to views of Mt. Hood.<br />

One thing I’ve learned early on about camping in the Northwest<br />

is never assume that you’ll get the spot you want. Sometimes you<br />

can luck out, as we did, pulling into narrow gravel driveway opened<br />

onto a sprawling grass field and buildings accumulated over years<br />

and for different purposes. We parked the trailer on the edge of<br />

the horse pasture and began to prepare for our first night of dry<br />

camping, or boondocking with no hookups for electricity or water.<br />

A sliver of a moon rose in the black western sky and crowned<br />

Mt. Adams to the north and Mt. Hood to the southwest with a<br />

halo glow.<br />

My mountain bike was finally in a state of repair that took me<br />

to the next level. In the steep terrain in the area, having a<br />

functioning back brake was a vital necessity. Last season, I<br />

had grown wary of skidding out on my front brake and of<br />

92 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>

Hood River<br />

the trees coming at me too fast and too close. Nature was reckless<br />

that way.<br />

Clint took us out for “a nice little ride” that lasted nearly four<br />

hours of steep climbs and descents. We linked together three<br />

trails—Eight Mile, Bottle Prairie and Knebal Springs—17 miles<br />

and 3,000 feet of climbing. A<br />

blackbird perched above this effort<br />

would have been amused by the<br />

wondrous surroundings and the<br />

desperate breathing below. This<br />

was apparently enough commotion<br />

to dislodge a bear from the<br />

underbrush, sending it scampering<br />

away downhill.<br />

My lungs bloated to capacity. My<br />

legs pickled with lactic acid. My<br />

mind locked into the last climb. We<br />

finished just after noon, sitting in the<br />

back of a pickup truck and plotting<br />

our next adventure with a recovery<br />

beer. It wasn’t until we were leaving<br />

the next day that we discovered that<br />

Clint, who finished the ride no worse<br />

than he had started it, was on the<br />

United States’ national development<br />

team in his younger years.<br />

On the way back to camp, we<br />

stomped on the brakes for a sign<br />

announcing huckleberry shakes.<br />

Apple Valley Country Store is<br />

where fruit from the area is canned<br />

and jarred into amazing finished<br />

products. We bought rhubarbstrawberry<br />

jam, a rhubarb-jalapeno spread and huckleberry shakes.<br />

For dinner, we all brought something to the communal grill. We<br />

dove into tri-tip, flank steak, grilled chicken and salads of every<br />

ilk. With dessert came another revelation. Megan is a world-class<br />

baker, having come from the founding family of the Grand Central<br />

Bakery in Seattle and Portland. She now puts her skills to work in<br />

her own Pine Street Bakery in Hood River. Her rhubarb pies were<br />

unlike anything I’d ever tasted. The conversation easily changed<br />

from thrilling downhill sections of the ride to the pie’s golden crust.<br />

Before it came, I made the argument that rhubarb needed a sweet<br />

sibling to make for a proper dessert. I happily ate my words.<br />

That night, we slept with all of the windows open. Outside,<br />

frogs croaked nonsense up to the quarter moon.<br />

In the morning, we put on our running shoes and headed for<br />

the nearby Post Canyon—the trails pulling us into the forest once<br />

more before we got back on the road.<br />

We returned just as the rest of<br />

the group was finishing a farmfresh<br />

egg scramble and Megan’s<br />

fresh scones. Megan had been<br />

up early. “No, Dad, you have<br />

to try this!” Fiona insisted as I<br />

whipped the batter for Swedish<br />

pancakes, determined to rise<br />

to the challenge and create a<br />

conduit for the homemade<br />

rhubarb-strawberry jam from<br />

Apple Valley Country store.<br />

Cooking breakfast on a gas<br />

flame in a Flying Cloud trailer<br />

is a beautiful thing, even if your<br />

wife is less enthusiastic for your<br />

effort. “We don’t want Swedish<br />

pancakes,” she crowed. “It’s too<br />

much of a hassle.” I continued<br />

to whip the batter in defiance.<br />

The local jam and granola was a<br />

topping that would make us all<br />

10 percent happier, I thought.<br />

Should I top it with whipped<br />

cream? “No one eats Swedish<br />

pancakes with whipped cream,”<br />

she said, the implied “Stupid!”<br />

mercifully withheld. She had<br />

probably covered that topic too, with her Swedish friend. “Have you<br />

ever seen whipped cream at Ikea?” Mmmhmm.<br />

We packed up and wound our way out, Mt. Hood centered on<br />

the windshield. There is something different, some connective tissue<br />

between the sight of a snow-covered mountain, a soothing blue<br />

sky, the saturated green of orchards and the emotional desire to<br />

explore, to climb, to hike across a field. To join with the others<br />

who have made these journeys during their lives. With each<br />

moment, this feeling intensified.<br />

JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong> 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 93

ABOVE Good views from<br />

our friends’ horse pasture<br />

in Hood River.<br />


Daughters and friends<br />

play volleyball in camp.<br />

The controversial Swedish<br />

pancakes. Lamb kebabs on<br />

the grill. Mountain biking<br />

the steep trails around<br />

Hood River.<br />

94 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong><br />

For more information on our Airstream Adventures go to<br />


Eat. Drink. Play.<br />

GUIDE<br />

Eat<br />

Pine Street Bakery and Restaurant<br />

Double Mountain Brewery<br />

Brian’s Pourhouse<br />

Drink<br />

pFriem Brewery<br />

Brian’s Pourhouse<br />

Hood River Distiller’s Tasting Room<br />

Play<br />

Mountain Biking any trail network (Post<br />

Canyon, Whoopdee, Synline)<br />

Road riding the Historic Columbia River<br />

Highway<br />

Windsurfing on the Columbia<br />

Wine tasting along the Fruit Loop and the<br />

broader Columbia Gorge AVA<br />


Ride any trails in the<br />

Hood River area. Stop<br />

in Pine Street Bakery in<br />

the morning. Hit Double<br />

Mountain Brewery for<br />

truffle pizza and beer.<br />


Bridge RV Park and<br />

Campground<br />

Lost Lake Resort<br />

Tucker Park<br />


N/A<br />


N/A<br />


Good in the area, but<br />

spotty on trails.<br />


In 1980, thirteen<br />

windsurfers tried to surf<br />

20 miles to Hood River.<br />

None of them went<br />

the distance because<br />

of primitive gear, but<br />

it put Hood River on<br />

the map as a premier<br />

windsurfing capital.<br />


INGREDIENTS (Serves 4)<br />

(For Kebabs)<br />

4 ground lamb kebabs from your butcher<br />

1 lemon<br />

salt and pepper<br />

(For Wild Mushroom Risotto)<br />

9 ½ tablespoons butter, divided<br />

1 ½ pounds fresh wild Oregon<br />

chanterelle or shitake mushrooms<br />

halved or quartered<br />

7 cups low-salt chicken broth<br />

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil<br />

¾ cup finely chopped leek (white and<br />

pale green parts only)<br />

1 ¼ cups arborio rice<br />

¼ cup dry white wine<br />

¼ cup dry white vermouth<br />


Once marinated and or seasoned with salt and<br />

pepper, grill kebabs on hibachi grill for four<br />

minutes on each side.<br />


Melt 2 tablespoons butter in heavy large skillet over<br />

medium-high heat. Add 1/4 of mushrooms and<br />

sprinkle with salt. Sauté mushrooms until tender<br />

and beginning to brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer<br />

mushrooms to medium bowl. Working in 3 more<br />

batches, repeat with 6 tablespoons butter, remaining<br />

mushrooms, and salt and pepper.<br />

Bring 7 cups chicken broth to simmer in medium<br />

saucepan. Melt remaining butter with olive oil in<br />

heavy large saucepan over medium-low heat. Add<br />

leek, sprinkle with salt, and sauté until tender, 4 to 5<br />

minutes. Add rice and increase heat to medium. Stir<br />

until translucent, 3 to 4 minutes. Add white wine and<br />

vermouth and stir until liquid is absorbed, about 1<br />

minute. Continue adding broth and stirring. Stir in<br />

sautéed mushrooms. until rice is tender and risotto<br />

is creamy. Stir in 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese.<br />

Transfer risotto to serving bowl.<br />


WINE<br />

Rosé: Maryhill Winery Rosé of Sangiovese<br />

Red: Cathedral Ridge Necessity Red<br />

White: Memaloose Idiot’s Grace Sauv/Semillon<br />

Bubbles: Analemma Blanc de Noirs Sparkling<br />

BEER<br />

Walking Man Knuckle Dragger IPA<br />

Double Mountain Kolsch

ABOVE Daphne Silva before a Hike It Baby<br />

excursion at the Upper McCord Creek trail in<br />

the Columbia River Gorge.<br />

LEFT Brittney Weaver and her son on the trail.<br />

Hike It Baby!<br />

photography by Jason Quigley<br />

WITH ITS MISSION to raise a generation of nature<br />

lovers, this nonprofit started in <strong>July</strong> 2013 in Portland.<br />

Founder Shanti Hodges began with a few families —<br />

today there are more than 300 branches around the<br />

country encouraging families to get outside.

Hike It Baby participants<br />

navigate switchbacks of the<br />

Upper McCord Creek trail.

Greg Hatten<br />


ADVENTURE 102<br />

LODGING 104<br />

TRIP PLANNER 106<br />


pg. 102<br />

Bass fishing on the John Day River.

travel spotlight<br />

Woahink Lake<br />

written by Kjersten Hellis<br />

photography by Rick Obst<br />

WOAHINK LAKE’S GLASSY surface and murky<br />

water hide a secret. The lake doubles as an<br />

obstacle course for recreational scuba divers<br />

and is home to several mock shipwrecks, a<br />

yellow submarine, and an 18-foot plastic shark,<br />

Mary 18, named for the dispatch call sign of<br />

fallen Eugene Police officer Chris Kilcullen.<br />

The lake is not a tropical paradise, but many<br />

scuba companies in Oregon choose to certify<br />

clients in this lake because it is a protected<br />

area suitable for beginners.<br />

Scuba aside, Woahink Lake is also a<br />

natural wonder. Located in Florence, it is a<br />

cryptodepression lake, meaning it is below<br />

sea level. The deepest point of the lake is 74<br />

feet, making it about 36 feet below sea level.<br />

Woahink also offers great fishing spots to<br />

catch largemouth bass or rainbow trout.<br />

Under the lake’s surface lie shipwrecks and other<br />

delights for scuba divers to discover.<br />

100 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>

adventure<br />

Adventure<br />

Sl ay Bass to<br />

Save Salmon<br />

Catching a mess of smallmouth<br />

bass on the John Day River might<br />

help protect native salmon<br />

written by Mike Allen<br />

photography by Arian Stevens<br />


Day River is all spectacular canyon and big vistas, but I kept my free eye<br />

on the water, scouting for fishing holes. It occurred to me that I had no<br />

idea what the regulations were, but I knew the water here was filled with<br />

warm-water species rather than my preferred quarry—trout. So when<br />

I passed an Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife agent sitting in a<br />

folding chair at a pullout, I spun around at the next opportunity and came<br />

back to see if he had a regulations guide for me.<br />

He did, and he told me to go for smallmouth bass, of which I could<br />

take as many as I liked, of any size, and by any<br />

method—bait, lure or fly. This was a pleasant<br />

surprise since the joke among anglers is to<br />

always bring your regulations guide and your<br />

lawyer to help you interpret it.<br />

Standing knee-deep by the sedges in a warm,<br />

lazy stretch of silt-bottomed river, two friends<br />

and I plopped nightcrawlers, spinners and<br />

rubber grubs into the blue-green water, lateafternoon<br />

sun roasting away our cares. The<br />

action wasn’t terribly fast, but every fifteen<br />

minutes or so, a tug from under the rippling<br />

plane resulted in a fish the size of a postcard,<br />

fighting like a shark.<br />

Smallmouth bass were intentionally<br />

introduced to the John Day by ODFW in 1971.<br />

At the time, it was presumed they couldn’t prey<br />

on salmon and steelhead, since they occupy<br />

different ecological niches, and when the<br />

salmonoids swim through, whether coming to<br />

spawn or leaving as smolts, they’re too big for a bass to bite into. Time and<br />

climate change have changed that calculation.<br />

With warmer waters and lower stream flows, both of which favor the<br />

sedentary smallmouth, they’ve made it into the salmonoid spawning beds<br />

high up in the north and middle forks of the John Day. There, they benefit<br />

from “prey naiveté,” meaning salmonoids have no instinctual fear of the<br />

non-native bass. So anglers who want to have the most impact should<br />

concentrate their efforts in the upper reaches of the north and middle<br />

forks of the John Day.<br />

According to ODFW biologist Mike Gauvin, the new regulations are<br />

intended as much to reduce complexity as to hopefully reduce the bass<br />

population. In the past, bass fishing on the John Day was governed by<br />

“slot limits.” Slot limits allow anglers to take a certain number of total fish<br />

above a certain size, but fewer of a larger size and sometimes none of<br />

some other sizes. Cue the “fishing lawyer” joke.<br />

Steve Fleming runs a guide service on the John Day, taking people<br />

out for steelhead, salmon and smallmouth. His trips, which often yield<br />

more than a hundred (released) bass per angler, go through private lands<br />

where he has agreements with local landowners. But, he said, “there’s only<br />

one [fishing] hole that [the regulations] affected me on. And it’s one that<br />

people can drive in to. In the past, I would catch twenty to twenty-five<br />

bass in an outing, and last year I caught eight.”<br />

Regardless, Fleming doesn’t like the new (de)<br />

regulations, introduced in 2016, because he<br />

says ODFW is relying on bad or incomplete<br />

information to demonize the bass. He feels that,<br />

although it won’t harm the bass population, it will<br />

reduce opportunities for children to catch bass<br />

from the bank.<br />

As naive as the salmonoids ourselves, and<br />

seeking smaller, less popular stretches of water,<br />

we headed up the Kimberly–Long Creek<br />

Highway. We made our way, quite by accident, to<br />

the tumbledown resort at Ritter.<br />

About 50 river miles from the source of the<br />

Middle Fork John Day, the water here cuts cold<br />

and clear through ponderosa pine canyons and<br />

lichen-encrusted basalt. I asked if I could fish and<br />

the owner said that, as a matter of fact, he’d just<br />

spotted a 16-inch rainbow from the footbridge<br />

suspended over the river.<br />

I waded out to the middle, careful to avoid<br />

the potholes in the black basalt riverbed, flicked a green rooster tail<br />

downstream and reeled it slowly back toward me, savoring the vibration<br />

of the metal sliver spinning in the current. That first cast yielded a strike,<br />

which turned out to be a little salmon, 6 or 7 writhing inches long. It<br />

slipped back into the water and disappeared in a glint of silver.<br />

The next day I waded out again, repeated the ritual and reeled in bass.<br />

Nearly every cast yielded a strike, and every strike yielded a bass. Most<br />

were small, and I considered feeding them to the bull snakes patrolling<br />

the banks here, but (perhaps misplaced) guilt got the best of me. Finally<br />

a couple of good-sized fish, 12 to 14 inches, got on and fought hard. I<br />

slipped them into my mesh bag, gutted and seasoned them, and grilled<br />

them whole.<br />

102 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>

adventure<br />

A fly-fisherman goes after bass<br />

on the John Day River.<br />

JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong> 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 103

lodging<br />

Lodging<br />

McMenamins Grand Lodge<br />

written by Julie Lee<br />

photography by Kathleen Nyberg<br />

THE DANES CALL IT ‘hygge’<br />

(pronounced hue-gah), and we call it<br />

the Grand Lodge in Forest Grove. The<br />

ritual of combining and appreciating<br />

life’s simple pleasures in a comfortable<br />

setting, creating a sense of well-being<br />

and contentment, is the backbone of this<br />

restorative and renovated McMenamins<br />

hotel. Wizardry meets artistry here, with<br />

secret stairwells, riddles on walls and<br />

museum-worthy art on walls, headboards<br />

and ceilings. Recently celebrating a 95-<br />

year anniversary, the former Masonic and<br />

Eastern Star property offers history inside<br />

and green scenery outside, with trees,<br />

trails and thrills beckoning a unification<br />

with nature. Nearby Hagg Lake offers<br />

water fun, and for the thrill-seeker looking<br />

to take simple pleasures to new heights,<br />

there is a zipline park adjacent to the lake.<br />

Be sure to print the walking guide before<br />

your stay—fifteen pages of “not-to-miss<br />

details” throughout the hotel and roomto-room<br />

historical facts.<br />

3505 Pacific Ave.<br />


mcmenamins.com<br />

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Hallways are lined with hand-painted art,<br />

sculptures and riddles at the Grand Lodge. A featured sitting room.<br />

Outdoor soaking pool. Foot treatment at the Ruby Spa.

lodging<br />


A 102-degree soaking pool nestled<br />

amongst outdoor greenery<br />

invites relaxation punctuated by<br />

a restorative foot treatment or<br />

hot stone massage at Ruby’s Spa<br />

following the dip. The oddly named<br />

Doctor’s Office Bar features pool<br />

tables, board games and a dentist<br />

office in case you want to lay down<br />

or get your teeth checked after all<br />

the wine-tasting. The Billy Scott<br />

Bar was included in the recent<br />

facelift and offers a nesting corner<br />

with fireplace, books and vinyl<br />

record music. An on-site movie<br />

theater plays first-run films.<br />

ROOMS<br />

Disregard the vintage notion<br />

of shared bathrooms at this<br />

McMenamins property—of the<br />

ninety rooms on property, twentytwo<br />

newly renovated rooms offer<br />

a private bathroom and, for the<br />

summer months ahead, vital<br />

air conditioning. Rooms are all<br />

different and honor book authors<br />

with hand-painted headboards,<br />

bringing the book to life through<br />

distinctive art.<br />

DINING<br />

Two restaurants and plenty of<br />

bars on site mean you never<br />

really have to leave: Adding to<br />

the aforementioned Doctor’s<br />

Office Bar and Billy Scott Bar,<br />

the Ironwork Grill offers all three<br />

square meals starting at 7 a.m. for<br />

the early birds, great happy hour<br />

specials and family-pleasing pub<br />

fare. Pat’s Corner is a great lateafternoon<br />

option for soaking up<br />

suds after soaking in the tub, with<br />

the latest McMenamins brews on<br />

tap daily and vegetables grown and<br />

fermented on-site.<br />

JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong> 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 105

trip planner<br />

Hood River<br />

The city that lives<br />

by the water<br />

written by Lindsay McWilliams<br />

photography by Austin White<br />


entire life but, until recently, I had<br />

never been to Hood River. As soon<br />

as I dropped down into the Columbia<br />

River Gorge while driving in from<br />

Central Oregon, one thing was clear:<br />

This city lives by the water.<br />

Thousands of years ago, the<br />

Klickitat and Wasco tribes fished for<br />

salmon on the Columbia and Hood<br />

rivers as their main food source,<br />

drawing them to settle permanently<br />

in the area. Today, the livelihood of<br />

those in Hood River still rests on<br />

the water. The tourism that drives<br />

the city’s economy focuses on<br />

kiteboarding and windsurfing, beer<br />

and fruit farming—all of which need<br />

plentiful water. It remains the source<br />

of life.<br />

Everywhere I looked, the Columbia<br />

River dominated the landscape. Even<br />

while exploring the bustling boutique<br />

shops in downtown Hood River, I felt<br />

the breeze blowing from the river and<br />

couldn’t help but stare for a moment<br />

when I found myself<br />

looking north to the gorge.<br />

Hood River’s downtown teems with shops, restaurants and bars.

Go Rogue in Retirement<br />

Come experience the exceptional<br />

resort-style retirement living<br />

available at Rogue Valley<br />

Manor. With spacious cottages<br />

and apartments, a 668-acre<br />

campus, a myriad of recreational<br />

opportunities daily, and a complete<br />

continuum of healthcare and<br />

support services available on-site,<br />

isn’t it time you went Rogue?<br />

1200 Mira Mar Avenue<br />

Medford, OR<br />

retirement.org/rvm<br />

Rogue Valley Manor is a Pacific Retirement Services<br />

community and an equal housing opportunity.<br />

Call today for a complimentary<br />

lunch and tour. 541-857-7214

trip planner<br />

Hood River offers a variety<br />

of water sport options.<br />

Day<br />


Summer in Hood River is all about water sports. Not long<br />

ago, Hood River was discovered by the world as the ideal place<br />

for windsurfing, drawing in thousands of wind-seeking tourists<br />

each year. More recently, windsurfing’s cousin kiteboarding<br />

followed suit.<br />

You’ll want to eat well before taking on taxing water sports,<br />

so stop in to Bette’s Place downtown before heading toward the<br />

river. A staple in Hood River since 1975, Bette’s serves hefty<br />

omelets and specials such as the smoked salmon and brie<br />

scramble in a no-frills diner-like setting.<br />

Just north of downtown is the mecca of water sports that<br />

continues on either side of Hood River Waterfront Park.<br />

Here you have plenty of options for rentals and lessons in<br />

windsurfing, kiteboarding, standup paddle boarding and more,<br />

all within a half-mile section of the Columbia River Gorge. At<br />

Brian’s Windsurfing, you can sign up for two- to three-hour<br />

lessons with an instructor and a small group, and courses for<br />

many skill levels are available. Already an expert? Rent gear or<br />

bring your own and enjoy playing in one of the nation’s most<br />

scenic environments for water sports. Whatever you’re doing,<br />

pack lots of sunscreen.<br />

Pop into the Ruddy Duck, a fabulous boutique for the Oregon<br />

lifestyle.<br />

Grab a bite to eat at the conveniently located Sand Bar Cafe,<br />

right on the shore in the middle of the action. Fish tacos,<br />

burgers and gourmet hot dogs will leave you feeling satisfied<br />

after a session on the water.<br />

In the evening, stroll through picturesque downtown Hood<br />

River and check out boutique shops and sporting goods stores.<br />

End the night relaxing on a couch at Double Mountain Brewery,<br />

devouring thin-crust pizza and washing it down with cold beer.<br />

I had the Truffle Shuffle Pizza (think goat cheese,<br />

mozzarella and white truffle oil) with a Sweet Jane<br />

IPA, and left a satisfied customer.<br />

108 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>

getaway<br />

to northwest portland<br />

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portland’s unique boutiquehotel<br />

Surrounded by world-class restaurants,<br />

craft breweries, coffee shops and boutiques<br />

ENJOY<br />

these complimentary amenities<br />

streetcar passes on-site parking bike rentals<br />

wireless internet continental breakfast<br />

610 Oak Street<br />

Hood River Oregon<br />


Farm Fresh Breakfast<br />

Private Baths<br />

(541) 386-3845<br />

OakStreetHotel.com<br />


Stay, Shop & Play<br />

Downtown Hood River<br />

800 224 1180 2025 nw northrup portland oregon<br />

Conveniently located on the Portland Streetcar line!<br />


trip planner<br />

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Beer and pizza at Double Mountain Brewery.<br />

The Gorge White House features wine and cider. The Sand Bar Cafe<br />

offers fish tacos, burgers and more on the waterfront.<br />

110 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>


FILE NAME: seaside_1859_8.25x5.06_beach_bikes.indd<br />

PUB: 1859<br />

FINAL TRIM SIZE: 8.25" wide x 5.06" tall<br />


trip planner<br />

Broder Øst is located<br />

in downtown Hood River.<br />


where to eat & drink<br />

Bette’s Place<br />

bettesplace.com<br />

Sand Bar Cafe<br />

Broder Øst<br />

brodereast.com<br />

Double Mountain Brewery<br />

doublemountainbrewery.com<br />

Celilo Restaurant & Bar<br />

celilorestaurant.com<br />

where to stay<br />

Hood River Hotel<br />

hoodriverhotel.com<br />

Columbia Cliff Villas Hotel<br />

columbiacliffvillas.com<br />

Lost Lake Resort & Campground<br />

lostlakeresort.org<br />

Hood River Hostel<br />

hoodriverhostel.com<br />

Best Western Plus Hood River Inn<br />

hoodriverinn.com<br />

where to play<br />

Brian’s Windsurfing<br />

brianswindsurfing.com<br />

The Gorge White House<br />

thegorgewhitehouse.com<br />

Starvation Creek State Park<br />

oregonstateparks.org<br />

Hood River Fruit Loop<br />

hoodriverfruitloop.com<br />

Slopeswell Cider Co.<br />

slopeswell.com<br />

Day<br />


If you’ve never tried Scandinavian food<br />

before, Broder Øst in downtown Hood<br />

River is a good place to start for breakfast.<br />

Come with an adventurous attitude, as menu<br />

items are by some standards a bit different,<br />

but nonetheless delicious. The lefse is to die<br />

for—Norwegian potato crépes stuffed with<br />

chevre and lingonberry, topped with two<br />

baked eggs.<br />

After breakfast, hop onto Interstate 84<br />

and head to one of many hiking trails in<br />

the Columbia River Gorge. I drove twenty<br />

minutes west to Starvation Creek State Park,<br />

where I hiked through lush forest past four<br />

cascading waterfalls and up to a viewpoint<br />

overlooking the striking gorge. Within<br />

about 3 miles, I found dozens of photo<br />

opportunities.<br />

Refreshed by the outdoors and its<br />

awesome scenery, head back toward Hood<br />

River for the second thing this area has<br />

become famous for—the Hood River Fruit<br />

Loop. The 35-mile driving loop takes you<br />

past U-pick farms, cideries and wineries and<br />

farm stands. You could spend hours stopping<br />

at all the neat, local spots on the drive, but<br />

I highly recommend first visiting the Gorge<br />

White House on Highway 35. A 1908 Dutch<br />

Colonial home (which now serves as a gift<br />

shop) will draw you in. You’ll stay, however,<br />

for the wines and ciders made on site, along<br />

with the food cart that makes flatbreads<br />

and burgers with local ingredients from<br />

surrounding farms.<br />

For a list of all twenty-nine stops on the<br />

Fruit Loop, ask for an official map at your<br />

hotel or one of the downtown businesses, or<br />

head to hoodriverfruitloop.com for a digital<br />

version.<br />

Relax back in town with a dinner at Hood<br />

River’s favorite upscale dining spot, Celilo<br />

Restaurant & Bar. After dinner, check out live<br />

music and innovative ciders at Slopeswell<br />

Cider Co. or the many other bars and wine<br />

tasting rooms around town.<br />

At the end of my inaugural trip to Hood<br />

River—settling down with a pear cider and<br />

the sounds of live acoustic guitar—I knew I’d<br />

return to this city by the water over and over<br />

and over again.<br />

112 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>

We’ve got it all in one place. Make Pacific City, Oregon, your<br />

getaway destination with an overnight stay at one of our unique<br />

hotels and vacation rentals. Throw in good eats and amazing<br />

brews at the famed, oceanfront Pelican Brewing Company, and<br />

you may never want to go home again.<br />

http://www.marriott.com/SLERI<br />

503-585-6500<br />

Stay - Play - Relax<br />

Book your room today!<br />

640 Hawthorne Ave SE - Salem, OR 97301

northwest destinations<br />

More Than Twilight<br />

The Olympic Peninsula wows with the PNW’s greatest gifts<br />

written by Sheila G. Miller<br />

I HAVE LIVED IN OREGON for 28 of my 37 years. When I was a<br />

child, my family took us on trips all over the Pacific Northwest—to<br />

watch sheep being born at Oregon State University, to see the ash<br />

and sediment left behind by Mt. St. Helens, to visit the Maryhill<br />

Museum’s Stonehenge memorial. We wandered through Shaniko<br />

and visited family in Yakima and rode the alpine slides at Mt. Hood.<br />

But somehow, in all that time, I never made it to the Olympic<br />

Peninsula until this spring. This was a tragic oversight, because<br />

the Olympic Peninsula combines all of the Pacific Northwest’s<br />

greatest gifts—seafood, forests, rippling water and a heaping dose<br />

of quaint charm.<br />

First, the facts. The Olympic Peninsula is huge and virtually every<br />

inch of it beautiful and interesting. The center of the peninsula is<br />

dominated by Olympic National Park and surrounding national<br />

forestland. You can spend three days or three weeks and still have<br />

dozens more spots to explore.<br />

Cutting over from I-5 near Olympia, one mandatory stop on the<br />

way up Highway 101 on the eastern side of the peninsula should<br />

be Hama Hama Oyster Co. The rustic seafood spot on the shores<br />

of Hood Canal serves up grilled oysters, local beer and other<br />

delicacies. Nearby are two of the area’s twenty-two waterfalls,<br />

many of which are easily accessible from roads.<br />

If the goal is a quiet, romantic weekend, the Inn at Port Ludlow<br />

has you covered. The property, tucked away on a quiet marina,<br />

has water views, a rocky beach to stretch your legs and fine<br />

dining in The Fireside, its on-site restaurant. Pick from locally<br />

caught seafood—the scallops are divine—to pair with a glass of<br />

Washington wine while resting in front of a double-sided floor-toceiling<br />

fireplace. And if you’re traveling with a four-legged friend,<br />

know the pup will be well cared for with chef-made treats and<br />

pet-friendly rooms.<br />

Near Port Ludlow are several farms available for tours, including<br />

the Finnriver Farm & Cidery, which makes fruit wines and hard<br />

ciders. The property is open daily for cider tastings and offers<br />

music and other specials, like crepes, on the weekends.<br />

Less than 20 miles up the road lies Port Townsend, one of the<br />

most adorable small towns in America—the whole city is a National<br />

Historic Landmark built on a Victorian seaport. Farther west lies<br />

Port Angeles, the largest city on the peninsula. It’s the spot to catch<br />

the ferry to Victoria, BC, but it’s much more than that—check out<br />

the hip Next Door Gastropub for a beer and a burger, Turnip the<br />

Beet for some veggie options, or Coyote for barbeque. The city’s<br />

farmers market is small but mighty, and its downtown is filled<br />

with locally owned shops, including two great bookstores—Port<br />

Book and News and Odyssey Books & Gifts. Squeeze in a quick<br />

trip through the Webster’s Woods Art Park, an outdoor<br />

art installation that will have you craning your neck in all<br />

directions to find the art hidden among the trees.<br />

La Push offers picturesque<br />

coastal camping.<br />

114 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>

northwest destinations<br />

The trail to Sol Duc Falls.<br />

If you’re a fan of the Twilight books or<br />

movie series, a must-see on your tour<br />

through the peninsula is Forks and nearby<br />

La Push. The setting for the travails of Bella,<br />

Edward and Jacob, Forks in particular has<br />

capitalized on this craze, and beginning in<br />

May, the Rainforest Arts Center opened a<br />

permanent collection of props, costumes<br />

and other pieces. You’ll know you’ve reached<br />

the Center and its display, called Forever<br />

Twilight in Forks, when you hit the town’s<br />

only stoplight. Over in La Push, Jacob’s neck<br />

of the woods, are some truly spectacular<br />

beaches. Huge downed trees lay strewn in<br />

the sand, while rock formations jut out of<br />

the water. If you can get a day without fog,<br />

hightail it that direction.<br />

It’s easy to visit the peninsula and not<br />

find time to venture into the national<br />

park, but that would be a huge mistake.<br />

There are no roads crossing the park—this<br />

wilderness is a United Nations-designated<br />

World Heritage Site and an International<br />

Biosphere Reserve, and it is a great spot for<br />

a backpacking trip, camping and long hikes.<br />

The variety of ecosystems in this park can<br />

be shocking—travel from a rain forest to<br />

some of the 70 miles of wild coastline to<br />

snow-topped mountains.<br />

If driving, there are plenty of places to get<br />

a taste of the wilderness. Hurricane Ridge<br />

offers stunning views of the mountain<br />

range and is only about 17 miles south of<br />

Port Angeles. The Hoh Rain Forest, where<br />

between 12 and 14 feet of rain fall each year,<br />

is one of those places that makes you search<br />

for more words to describe the shades of<br />

green you’ll see. Several hikable trails start<br />

from the forest’s visitor center—the Hall<br />

of Mosses is a 0.8-mile loop that provides<br />

visitors with a glimpse of the many ferns,<br />

mosses and tall trees that cover this area.<br />

A rustic but beautiful spot to rest your<br />

head in the park is Sol Duc Hot Springs<br />

Resort. With thirty-two cabins and a large<br />

campground, it’s easy to settle in for a<br />

relaxing stay—no internet or electronics<br />

are available. What is available, however,<br />

are a freshwater pool and three mineral<br />

hot springs of varying temperatures. That<br />

aggressive sulfur smell signifies health to<br />

a lot of visitors—the hottest of the pools<br />

hovers around 104 degrees.<br />

Nearby are hiking trails that lead around<br />

the national parkland, including to Sol<br />

Duc Falls. About 5 miles down the road<br />

from the resort is a viewing area where<br />

Coho salmon, migrating to spawn, jump a<br />

small cascade.<br />

The park and surrounding national<br />

forest contain five lodges and resorts as<br />

well as hundreds of campsites, primarily<br />

available on a first-come, first-served basis.<br />

Should “rustic” not be your thing, check<br />

out Lake Quinault Lodge. The lodge, built<br />

in 1926, is stunning—the grounds are<br />

even more splendid. A large lawn with a<br />

smattering of Adirondack chairs slopes<br />

down to the lake, where you can rent<br />

kayaks or swim off the dock in the summer.<br />

It’s the perfect spot to watch the sun set,<br />

cocktail optional.<br />


Hama Hama Company<br />

hamahamaoysters.com<br />

Next Door Gastropub<br />

nextdoorgastropub.com<br />

Finnriver Farm & Cidery<br />

finnriver.com<br />


Inn at Port Ludlow<br />

portludlowresort.com/inn<br />

Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort<br />

olympicnationalparks.com/lodging<br />

Lake Quinault Lodge<br />

olympicnationalparks.com/lodging<br />


Waterfall Trail<br />

olympicpeninsulawaterfalltrail.com<br />

Webster’s Woods Art Park<br />

pafac.org/websters-woods-art-park.html<br />

Rainforest Arts Center<br />

forkswashington.org/local-resources/rac<br />

Olympic National Park<br />

nps.gov/olym/planyourvisit/index.htm<br />

JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong> 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 115


eat + stay + play<br />



ArborBrook Vineyards is a boutique<br />

producer of exceptional handcrafted<br />

wines. Family-owned and operated, it<br />

is located in the heart of Oregon wine<br />

country in the Chehalem Mountain<br />

AVA. Visit the tasting room for a<br />

relaxing and casual wine tasting<br />

experience. Weekdays, 11– 4:30.<br />

Weekends, 11–5.<br />

503.538.0959<br />

17770 NE Calkins Lane<br />


arborbrookwines.com<br />


Art in the High Desert is a premier<br />

annual event that brings over 115 handpicked<br />

visual artists to the heart of<br />

Bend, OR, in the Old Mill District.<br />

This juried arts show/sale is ranked<br />

10th in the nation (out of over 600<br />

shows) based on exhibitor sales in 2016.<br />

For three days you can visit with, see<br />

and buy original art from some of the<br />

top artists in North America. This is an<br />

event not to be missed!<br />

Event is FREE and from<br />

<strong>August</strong> 25-27, <strong>2017</strong><br />

541.322.6272<br />

artinthehighdesert.com<br />




Cool cave, warm hearth. En route between<br />

the California Redwoods and Crater Lake,<br />

this national historic landmark offers rustic<br />

charm and a friendly staff. Experience tours<br />

of capacious marble caverns ranging from<br />

family-friendly to adventurous. Explore<br />

hiking trails to alpine lakes and discover<br />

nearby wineries and attractions. Find<br />

lodging, fine dining, a regional artisan gift<br />

gallery and an authentic 1930s-style café.<br />

541.592.3400<br />

20000 Caves Hwy.<br />


oregoncaveschateau.com<br />

Rabbit Tales Georgia Gerber<br />


Original art by regional masters defines<br />

this destination gallery. Celebrating 30<br />

years of excellence with public sculpture<br />

by gallery artists throughout Cannon<br />

Beach. NW By NW Gallery represents<br />

a collector’s selection of bronze<br />

sculpture by renowned public sculptor<br />

Georgia Gerber. Visit the Sculpture<br />

Garden featuring contemporary<br />

sculptor Ivan McLean.<br />

503.436.0741<br />

232 N Spruce St.<br />


nwbynwgallery.com<br />


Relax. Reconnect. Rejuvenate.<br />

This boutique inn is truly a unique<br />

destination perched between the<br />

Columbia River Gorge and Oregon’s<br />

High Desert. This historic hotel<br />

offers vintage charm and elegance,<br />

surrounded by sun and spacious rolling<br />

golden hills, just south of The Dalles<br />

and I-84. It’s a short drive but you’ll feel<br />

like you’re a world away. On-site dining<br />

and spa services.<br />

541.467.2277<br />

40 Heimrich St.<br />

DUFUR<br />

balchhotel.com<br />


Escape to Oregon Garden Resort, a<br />

103-room, pet-friendly resort set amid<br />

an 80-acre botanical wonder showcasing<br />

thousands of plants in more than 20<br />

colorful specialty gardens. There’s<br />

something for everyone! Explore rare<br />

conifers, beautiful water features, garden<br />

art, a 400-year-old Signature Oak tree, a fun<br />

garden just for kids, pet-friendly plants and<br />

more. After exploring, relax in the resort<br />

with a spa treatment, a gourmet dinner and<br />

cocktail and live music nightly. Fun events<br />

happen throughout the year, including an<br />

annual Brewfest over Father’s Day weekend,<br />

and Christmas in the Garden featuring<br />

lights, ice skating and artisan vendors each<br />

holiday season.<br />

503.874.2500<br />

895 W Main St.<br />


oregongardenresort.com<br />

116 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>

eat + stay + play<br />




On the road to Mt. Bachelor you’ll find<br />

the warm and welcoming Cascade<br />

Lakes Brewing Company Lodge.<br />

Enjoy 16 liquids on draft, a full bar,<br />

pool table and darts. You can also visit<br />

the flagship location in Redmond on<br />

7th Street. A local favorite for Taco<br />

Wednesdays, horseshoes and great<br />

hometown feel. Cheers!<br />

541.388.4998<br />

1441 SW Chandler Ave. #100<br />

BEND<br />

cascadelakes.com<br />


The Old Mill District is Bend’s<br />

most unique shopping, dining and<br />

entertainment experience. The rich<br />

history of the former sawmills is coupled<br />

with spectacular mountain views, scenic<br />

river vistas and an extensive trail system<br />

to enjoy the outdoors. More than 55<br />

local, regional and national retailers and<br />

restaurants call the Old Mill District<br />

home. Riverside restaurants, trails, shops<br />

and shows. Bend is here.<br />

541.312.0131<br />

450 SW Powerhouse Dr.<br />

BEND<br />

theoldmill.com<br />


At Thump, every coffee has a unique<br />

story. Through years of perfecting and<br />

simplifying the process, Thump is able<br />

to honor the journey, the complexities<br />

and the people that are inseparable<br />

from every coffee it roasts. Located<br />

in the heart of downtown Bend,<br />

Thump serves coffee with enthusiastic<br />

customer service and the utmost<br />

integrity. Don’t just drink coffee—<br />

experience it.<br />

541.388.0226<br />

25 NW Minnesota Ave.<br />

BEND<br />

thumpcoffee.com<br />


The Pine Ridge Inn is tucked between<br />

the trees & the Deschutes River in<br />

Bend. Surrounded by nature, minutes<br />

from downtown and walking distance<br />

to the Old Mill District and Les Schwab<br />

Amphitheatre. Known for exceptional<br />

guest service, The Pine Ridge Inn is a<br />

unique combination of a small boutique<br />

hotel and the personalized experience<br />

from a top-notch bed and breakfast.<br />

Pine Ridge Inn offer special romance<br />

packages too!<br />

541.600.4095<br />

1200 SW Mt. Bachelor Dr.<br />

BEND<br />

pineridgeinn.com<br />

NANCY P’S<br />

Located just off Newport on Bend’s<br />

west side you’ll find Nancy P’s<br />

Café & Bakery, a local mainstay<br />

that has become a unique part of<br />

the community. Serving breakfast,<br />

lunch and delicious baked goods<br />

made fresh daily. Come and enjoy<br />

the cozy atmosphere while taking<br />

in the featured local artwork that’s<br />

always on display. With fresh<br />

Bellatazza coffee and Metolius teas,<br />

Nancy P’s is sure to become your<br />

new favorite bakery destination!<br />

541.322.8778<br />

1054 NW Milwaukee Ave.<br />

BEND<br />

nancyps.com<br />


Tucked away in the Upper Old Mill District,<br />

you’ll find The Brown Owl. Known for<br />

food cart fare which specializes in burgers,<br />

sandos and salads, The Brown Owl offers<br />

food options for everyone, 14 rotating taps<br />

and handcrafted cocktails to make every<br />

experience cozy and special. Come by before<br />

or after a day at the mountain and find<br />

out for yourself why Brown Owl is quickly<br />

becoming a locals’ favorite.<br />

541.797.6581<br />

550 SW Industrial Way, Ste 120<br />

BEND<br />

brownowlbend.com<br />

JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong> 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 117

Pursuing excellence<br />

through fitness<br />

61615 Athletic Club Drive (541) 385-3062

1859 MAPPEDThe points of interest below are culled from<br />

stories and events in this edition of 1859.<br />

Live<br />

Think<br />

Explore<br />

22<br />

Ewethful Fiber Farms and Mill<br />

59<br />

CeaBikinis<br />

96<br />

Woahink Lake<br />

22<br />

Oregon Country Fair<br />

60<br />

Portland Mercado<br />

98<br />

John Day River<br />

32<br />

Bendistillery<br />

61<br />

StumpTown Kilts<br />

104<br />

McMenamins Grand Lodge<br />

36<br />

Jossy Farm<br />

62<br />

Architectural Heritage Center<br />

106<br />

Hood River<br />

52<br />

R.B. Meiser Fly Rods<br />

64<br />

Wallowa Resources<br />

113<br />

Olympic National Park<br />

JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong> 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 119

Until Next Time<br />

Of Blackberries<br />

written by Eswen Allison Hart<br />


bushes flourished in the undeveloped<br />

blocks south of our house in the<br />

valley. In late summer, we rode our<br />

bikes past the mown lawns and new<br />

ranch-style houses, beyond where<br />

the sidewalks ended and disorder<br />

began. We carried old cans in my<br />

white, flowered bike basket or in<br />

a bag looped over my brother’s<br />

stingray handlebars. Sometimes our<br />

parents came along to harvest the<br />

highest berries.<br />

But many of the berries were<br />

within our reach—we had ramps<br />

of boards culled from the constant<br />

construction of new homes that got<br />

closer every year. These discards<br />

were casually tossed up and onto the<br />

bushes, creating a sort of boardwalk<br />

into the air, lifting us beyond the easy<br />

picking at eye level. If we fell off a<br />

board, we knew, there was certain<br />

death, or something like it, in the<br />

tangle of brambles below. But we<br />

never fell.<br />

The blackberries were a labyrinth<br />

of undergrowth—there were paths<br />

and alleys worn between the bushes,<br />

much like an overgrown Victorian<br />

library, its aisles crowded with<br />

thorns and leaves and overhung with<br />

alder branches snagged by striving<br />

canes. The sky above was blotted<br />

out by impenetrable thicket—within<br />

this copse we stood on boards or<br />

on the duff and smashed berries.<br />

Insects sleepwalked in the still,<br />

buzzing near-silence of these gothic<br />

halls of vegetation.<br />

The days were long and hot in<br />

the valley, so we tended to wait for<br />

our picking until about the time the<br />

sprinklers came on after dinner. The<br />

blackberry leaves were still dusty<br />

warm but the brambles seemed<br />

somehow less sharp in early evening.<br />

By the time we’d filled our cans, our<br />

arms and legs were covered with<br />

scratches, some smeared purple with<br />

blackberry juice, some healing over<br />

from earlier visits.<br />

We had no incentive to pick the<br />

berries except for the promise of pie.<br />

Most of the berries, however, went<br />

into making jam—quarts and quarts<br />

of homemade jam. As a child, I didn’t<br />

know there was any other kind. And I<br />

didn’t realize that a person could buy<br />

jam—that I myself would buy jam—<br />

until I moved away from Oregon and<br />

wanted some for my toast.<br />

My mother needed dozens of<br />

brimming cans to make jam enough<br />

to see our family through the year.<br />

The jam was good, but we took it for<br />

granted. The pie was better, and more<br />

immediate. A pie could be made right<br />

then, that night, and eaten still warm<br />

with ice cream while the sprinklers<br />

were still going and the sky was not<br />

yet completely dark.<br />

Those blackberries of my<br />

childhood are gone, replaced by<br />

houses and driveways and aboveground<br />

swimming pools and<br />

swingsets. But there are blackberries<br />

all around if you know where to<br />

look, and we still go out together to<br />

fill our buckets. I’ve experimented<br />

with blackberry crumble, blackberry<br />

crisp and blackberry tarts, but<br />

nothing has ever been so good as<br />

blackberries made into a real pie. A<br />

pie with a flaky browned crust (you<br />

have to leave the pie in the oven<br />

long enough to brown the crust),<br />

a pie not too sugary and not sticky<br />

with cornstarch. A pie that emerges<br />

from the oven bubbling with berries<br />

molten in their own juice. A pie filled<br />

to the brim with the ripest, sweetest<br />

blackberries, picked in my memory<br />

at the end of my street, out beyond<br />

where the neighborhood ended and<br />

the wilderness began.<br />

120 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST <strong>2017</strong>

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