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MARCH 23 - 30, 2017
BORN FROM A TRADITION OF
LEARN TO OUTSHINE COMPETITORS
THIS MOTHER’S DAY
OFFICIAL MAGAZINE FOR THE
JEWELLERS ASSOCIATION OF AUSTRALIA
CONSUMER NARCISSISM IS ON THE
RISE, JEWELLERS BETTER DELIVER
A CAUTIONARY TALE OF DIAMOND
AND TULIP MANIA
FEATURES REGULARS BUSINESS
18/ ONE OF A KIND
Jewellers are in prime position to
tap into consumer narcissism.
23/ MUM’S THE WORD
Uncovering what it takes to outsmart
and outshine this Mother’s Day.
Revealing inclusions: sapphire
38/ JAA President’s report
41/ Business feature
David Brown explores
advancements that are
rejuvenating traditional retail.
Spark results with referral teams,
reports Michael Griffiths.
29/ DIAMOND BUBBLE
Lessons learned from the diamond
and tulip investment bubbles.
31/ BRACE FOR IMPACT
Lifting the lid on top trends expected
to impact retailers.
39/ JAA Member’s profile
48/ My Bench
James Tyler is fed up with
bad quality metals.
Chris Hallberg outlines the daily
habits of successful leaders.
Stephanie O’Brien discusses
strategies for managing
47/ Logged On
Increase engagement with
Facebook Live, advises Lux Narayan.
Front cover advertiser:
The Kameleon collection is a
new customisable jewellery
offering by Portobello. Visit:
March 2017 Jeweller 5
Win your share of more than $80,000
in prizes at the Jewellery Design Awards!
Entries close June 1st.
The winner of the ‘Supreme Award’ will receive two business class tickets and four night’s accommodation
to Baselworld 2018. The Jewellery Design Awards will be held at the 2017 International Jewellery Fair at the brand new
International Convention Centre Sydney. To enter please register at www.jewelleryfair.com.au for terms and conditions.
All entries are to be received at Expertise Events on or before June 1st 2017.
Picture courtesy of Baselworld
Entries will be accepted in the following categories:
• 1st & 2nd year Apprentice/Student Award
• 3rd & 4th year Apprentice/Student Award
• Australian Opal Award
• Bridal Award
• CAD/CAM/CAST Award
• Coloured Gemstone Award
• Diamond Award
• Fair Visitors’ Choice Award
• Men’s Accessories & Jewellery Award
• Pearl Award
• Precious Metal Award
• Supreme Award – The entry that receives the highest
point score out of all of the finalists will be
determined as the ‘Supreme Award’ winner
All prizes on offer are category specific and aim to help the businesses and designers who enter. Finalists will be showcased in an
interactive display at the International Jewellery Fair 2017 at ICC Sydney. This is also where the Fair Visitors’ Choice Award will be decided.
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TIPS TO TREASURE IN TOUGH TIMES
Jewellers have seen tough times in retail
trading before. Capitalism means, or demands,
that there are boon times followed by slow
times, but the current trading conditions
seem a little different to those past.
It was recently announced that Australia
avoided a technical recession by posting
positive GDP figures. There’s no doubt the
Australian economy has been resilient; there
are very few countries that can brag about
escaping an economic recession for 25 years.
In fact, we have had one of the world’s
longest growth streaks and are now expected
to surpass the Netherlands’ 26-year streak
(1982–2008). That aside, successful trading
has not been achieved across the board.
There has been constant reference to the
‘two-speed’ economy – the first buoyed by
the mining and resources boom and the
second being a far slower and less positive
situation. Categories within the overall retail
market have performed to varying success
levels and jewellery has had ups and downs.
The reason why this slow-down seems
different is because the market has changed
– or, more precisely, the consumer has
changed. To be even more specific, I think the
main difference is the change in shopping
avenue as opposed to the change in shoppers
themselves; consumers now have more
product choice and more choice of retail
sellers. The rise of multi-channel shopping
allows consumers to review everything.
Of course, there’s more to the current tough
trading times than internet activity but the
challenge is to find a niche in this digital era.
Although I regularly hear of jewellers who
are bucking the trend and recording good
sales, there’s no doubt many retailers are
probably thinking Australia is in a recession.
I don’t profess to have all the answers but
today’s retail landscape did make me think
about some of the advice Jeweller gathered
a few years ago about tips for trading in tough
times. A refresher in ‘basics’ never goes astray.
One that initially springs to mind: don’t
fall into a false sense of panic and start
discounting everything. This will just reduce
margins (profits) and raise expenses by
replenishing stock at more expensive prices.
I might sound like a broken record but
retailers need a strategy that covers all areas
of business. The first sector seeking attention
is stock and product choice. Move slow-selling
stock out of the store and review the entire
product range often, thinking about which
products actually work and the marketing
spend that each product requires.
Slow-selling stock has already been seen
by regular customers so devise a way to sell
it to non-regular customers. It can even be
used in special promotions or giveaways,
or to say ‘thank you’ to non-regular customers.
Once you have addressed the dead stock
issue consider working better with fewer
IN A RECESSION
suppliers. Choose your best suppliers and
advise that you want to work more closely
with them throughout these tougher times.
Suppliers are likely to be under just as much
pressure as you are when times are tough,
so be careful not to make decisions that harm
business relationships. A little extra time spent
helping suppliers will go a long way.
It’s also important to be aware of heavily
discounted product prices from suppliers.
These may be items that you haven’t had
before that have been slow sellers in other
stores. Buy warily – a discounted product is
not a bargain until it is sold and if it sits on
the shelves, then it wasn’t a bargain at all.
Jewellers need to look internally too. First
up, ensure staff have a mentality of striving,
not surviving. Know the business’ breakeven
point to determine the minimum sales
required to stay in operation. Use slower
times in store to educate staff – teach them
how to up-sell and give them greater product
knowledge on diamonds and coloured
gemstones. Also offer suppliers more chances
to come in and train staff on product specifics.
There are many other tips but I think the most
effective one is to smile. Consumers are more
likely to buy from happy, friendly and cheerful
staff. Store owners and managers can also
benefit from smiling every once in a while
– even I do it sometimes!
March 2017 Jeweller 9
“We generally do
it quite regularly
with staff induction
and in peak times
such as Christmas;
however, it is
training and in
How often do you provide staff training on security?
ALAN SOBBI, LINDA
& CO DESIGNER
n GREENER OUTLOOK
Is it time to add some greenery to the
store? Colour authority Pantone has
unveiled its 2017 Colour of the Year –
Greenery. Expected to inspire trends in
jewellery and other creative industries,
the hue has been described as a fresh
and zesty yellow-green that works with
many colour combinations.
n A GOOD FINISH
Setting the stage for a productive day
is all about ending the previous day
right, states business speaker Michael
Kerr. In a Business Insider Australia
article, Kerr reveals the common traits
that successful people do in the last
10 minutes of the workday, such as
determining primary goals and leaving
in a positive frame of mind.
n MORE THAN PRODUCT
‘Experiential’ retail is predicted to forge
a presence this year. The concept is
based on the idea that consumers are
looking for more than just product;
they are seeking experiences and
relationships. A Forbes report suggests
thinking along the lines of interactive
storefront windows and in-store events.
Remember technology assists but the
focus should be on human interaction.
“So far we haven’t
done any formal
news or industry
events. It is
something we all
agree needs to be
JAI HAY, JAI HAY
“We provide staff
with official security
police once a year,
but we do regularly
cover this subject
in our weekly staff
referring to walk-in
Pinterest’s latest updates are bound to change
the way jewellers utilise the social media site in
the future. Shop the Look allows users to click
on individual items in photos and make instant
purchases, or if they’re not for sale, view similar products that are. Next, by pointing a
smartphone camera towards any item in the real world, Lens will find it or the next
best thing. Shop the Look is currently available with select retailers and Lens is in testing
stage and expected to initially roll out in the US. Like most technology advancements,
however, it should only be a matter of time before local jewellers can take advantage.
Thomas Sabo’s 18-carat gold-plated sterling
silver earrings are from the spring/summer 2017
collection. Distributed by Duraflex Group Australia,
the earrings were the most popular product last
month ranked by views at jewellermagazine.com.
& Graphic Design
Jo De Bono
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Copyright: All material appearing
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Disclaimer: Jeweller is the official magazine
of the Jewellers Association of Australia
(JAA). The views and opinions expressed
in Jeweller do not necessarily reflect those
of the JAA and opinions expressed by
authors are not necessarily those of the
publishers or the JAA. All statements
made, although based on information
believed to be reliable and accurate at
the time, cannot be guaranteed and no
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damages or liabilities arising from the
10 Jeweller March 2017
Creating Timeless Memories
Jewellers to benefit from lease reforms
For the first time in more than a decade,
significant updates have been made to
the NSW Retail Leases Act. The changes
are expected to create fairer and more
transparent relationships between tenants
Under the reforms, landlords will be obliged
to disclose outgoing costs and leases of more
than three years will need to be registered
with Land and Property Information. The act
will also include the removal of the minimum
five-year lease term.
Nationwide Jewellers managing director
Colin Pocklington said the buying group
supported the amendments; however, it
was disappointing that the government was
unable to include several other changes.
“Retailers were seeking a stop to the need
12 Jeweller March 2017
to supply monthly sales figures to landlords,
when percentage rent was not payable,”
Pocklington explained, adding, “This gives the
landlords an advantage in lease negotiations.
Retailers were also seeking a right of refusal
at the end of a lease.”
An Australian Retailers Association
spokesperson said it was difficult to
determine whether other states would follow
suit. “We do know that South Australia was
waiting to see the outcome of this NSW bill,
so it will be interesting to see what they do
next,” the spokesperson added.
The Retail Leases Amendment (Review) Bill
2016 was introduced to NSW Parliament by
Minister for Small Business John Barilaro on
November 8, 2016, before passing parliament
on February 21, 2017.The lease reforms are
expected to come into effect July 1, 2017.
Perth store full of ‘stolen’ jewellery
Western Australia Police has seized an
entire store of allegedly stolen jewellery.
A statement made on the WA Police
Facebook page, dated February 26, read:
“Perth detectives have worked hard to obtain
evidence to seize an entire jewellery store in
Perth of allegedly stolen items recently.”
According to multiple reports, police
conducted a search warrant for the store
and charged one man with several offences
in relation to the incident.
Images of the alleged stolen jewellery,
including watches, rings, bracelets and
necklaces, have been posted to the WA Police
Facebook page in an attempt to reunite
the pieces with the owners. The public was
encouraged to view the photos and contact
police if they recognised the items.
While very few details have been released,
a comment on the Facebook page did
indicate that WA Police were unsure how
long ago the pieces were stolen.
Jeweller contacted WA Police for more
information regarding the reported charges,
as well as the approximate value of the stolen
jewellery, but had not received a response at
the time of publication.
Michael Hill on the up
Michael Hill International (MHI) recorded
a 5.4 per cent rise in revenue for the six
months ended December 31, 2016.
According to the company’s latest
financial report, sales for the period
totalled $327.5 million, while same-store
sales increased 0.8 per cent year-on-year
to $306 million.
“The first half result was pleasing,
especially given the difficult trading
period in the lead up to December and
the critical Christmas trading period,” the
MHI, which finalised its primary listing on
the Australian Securities Exchange in July
2016, consists of the Michael Hill and
Emma & Roe businesses.
In Australia, Michael Hill recorded a
2.9 per cent revenue increase to $182
million compared with the previous year.
The Emma & Roe business achieved a
72 per cent sales rise to $8.7 million
across both regions.
As of December 31, there were 23 Emma
& Roe stores in Australia and one in
New Zealand. A total of 305 Michael Hill
stores existed throughout Australia, New
Zealand, Canada and the US.
The Directors are pleased to present the financial
statements of Michael Hill International Limited for the
year ended 30 June 2016. The Board of Directors
of Michael Hill International Limited authorised these
financial statements for issue on 18 August 2016.
44 Statement of comprehensive income
45 Statement of financial position
46 Statement of changes in equity
47 Cash flow statement
48 Notes to the financial statements
58 Statement of segmented results
MICHAEL HILL INTERNATIONAL 2016 FINANCIAL STATEMENTS 43
The only buying
group that returns
all profits to its
It’s been our way for 35 very successful years.
Profit is just one benefit our members realise from their partnership
with Showcase Jewellers. Other Showcase member benefits include;
• The industry’s most generous supplier discounts going directly to members
• Market leading business systems designed with retail in mind
• A Diamond Specialist working for members and
access to exclusive diamond brands
• No monthly management fee
NATIONWIDE HEADS OVERSEAS
The 2018 locations for the Nationwide
Jewellers biennial trip have been finalised.
More than 100 members will tour South
Africa in May next year. The excursion is
set to commence in Johannesburg, with
members also calling upon Capetown
and Zambia. Those attending will have
the option to visit a Diamond Trading
Company rough sorting facility and a
diamond-cutting factory in Botswana.
NEGATIVE SWISS EXPORT RESULTS
Statistics released by the Federation of the
Swiss Watch Industry (FH) revealed that
Swiss watch exports started the year on
a negative note. Exports declined 6.2 per
cent year-on-year for the month of January.
However, the report did outline that the
negative trend of 2016 had ‘flattened out
somewhat’ in the past three months.
SYNTHETIC DETECTOR AUDIT
The Diamond Producers Association is
said to be ‘laying the groundwork’ for
a committee that will test diamondscreening
devices. The proposed plan will
reportedly provide more information on
the range of synthetic detecting machines
in the market. A group of industry
representatives were expected to meet in
March to assess the program’s scope.
RAPAPORT GRADING REPORT
Rapaport Group has launched a grading
report – the Rapaport Investment
Diamond Report. The certificate is available
for diamonds that meet ‘stringent’ Rapaport
gemmological and investment grade
standards and stones will have a GIA report.
Local design competitions heat up
Australian and New Zealand jewellers have
been asked to put their skills to the test with
the announcement that two award programs
will take place in 2017.
Applications are now open for the
Jewellery Design Awards (JDA), developed
by International Jewellery Fair organiser
Expertise Events managing director Gary
Fitz-Roy said the inaugural JDA, which has a
prize pool exceeding $80,000, had generated
significant interest. He explained this was
largely due to the fact that each category
winner received a minimum prize of $2,500 in
cash or product and that the overall Supreme
Award winner received a trip to BaselWorld.
The Jewellers Association of Australia (JAA)
has also confirmed that the Australasian
Jewellery Awards will take place in 2017.
The awards consist of 11 categories, including
the new Contemporary/Non Precious Award,
and the winner of the overall Jeweller of the
Year Award will receive a trip to Hong Kong to
compete in the 2018 International Jewellery
Design Excellence Award program.
Applications for the JAA Australasian
Jewellery Awards were not open at the time
Award recipients of the JDA and JAA
Australasian Jewellery Awards will be revealed
in August during separate events scheduled
to take place in Sydney.
Australia bags Pandora’s top store
Pandora has reported a 21 per cent increase
in global revenue for 2016, with Australia
maintaining momentum and yielding the
year’s ‘best-performing’ store.
Australian revenue increased 37 per cent for
the full year compared with 2015. Although
the exact sales figure was not disclosed,
Australia accounted for about 40 per cent
of Asia Pacific’s total sales and therefore,
revenue roughly equated to DKK1.5 billion
The ‘best-performing’ store in terms of sales
was Pandora’s Pitt Street outlet in Sydney.
With a 500 per cent increase in revenue since
2012, Pandora Australia finance vice president
Warren Goode said achieving the ‘top spot’
PANDORA PITT STREET STORE
had been a company objective for some
time. Goode added that he expected 2017
to be another solid year for the region.
The company’s overall sales in 2016 totalled
DKK20.3 billion (AU$3.8 b).
De Beers profits double in 2016
ALROSA EMBRACES BRANDING
Alrosa is reportedly upping the ante
with its marketing game. According to
diamonds.net, Alrosa president Andrey
Zharkov stated that pilot marketing
programs promoting Russian-mined
diamonds would take place in ‘key’ regions
this year. Zharkov added that the diamond
industry needed to make a concerted
effort to raise consumer demand, which
was one of the catalysts for the decision.
+ MORE BREAKING NEWS
De Beers Group’s profits more than doubled
in 2016, which was accredited to strong
rough diamond demand, cost-cutting
measures and favourable exchange rates.
A 2016 financial report published by De Beers
parent company Anglo American stated
underlying earnings – or profit – jumped
from US$258 million (AU$336 m) in 2015 to
US$667 million (AU$869 m) in 2016.
Revenue increased 30 per cent to US$6.1
billion (AU$7.9 b), driven by a 37 per cent
increase in rough diamond sales to US$5.6
billion (AU$7.3 b).
Rough diamond production decreased 5
per cent to 27.3 million carats. According to
the company statement, this reflected the
decision made in 2015 to scale back mining
operations following weak trading conditions.
The report outlined that rough diamond
demand was expected to normalise in 2017,
with production predicted to be in the range
of 31 to 33 million carats.
14 Jeweller March 2017
HERE, JEWELLER HAS COMPILED A SNAPSHOT OF THE LATEST PRODUCTS TO HIT THE MARKET.
STONES & SILVER
+ MORE NEW PRODUCTS
Stones & Silver are now supplying a collection
of natural uncut diamonds that are set in
black wax. Pieces are rhodium-plated sterling
silver. Visit: stonesandsilver.com.au
This 38 mm watch combines a floral print with a grey
leather strap and gold-plated case. Olivia Burton is
distributed by West End Collection.
The Winter Solstice
pendant is paired with the
Steel Me petite necklace.
The pendant is rhodium
and 18-carat gold-plated
and is accented with cubic
zirconia. Visit: kagi.net
Titled Anne, this 9-carat white gold ring features a
smokey quartz surrounded by diamonds. The piece
is part of the Kameleon collection, which offers
personalised design choices.
New designs have been released in the
Ziro bi-tones ring range. Selected styles
are now available with black zirconium
bases and gold or sterling silver inlays.
This 14-carat gold-plated charm bracelet
is from the Beauty and the Beast
collection. The piece features characters
from the Disney fairytale’s enchanted
castle. Visit: disneycouture.com.au
The supplier continues to collate collections from
around the world with this necklace by Gabrielle
Bruni. The piece is rhodium-plated sterling silver
with 14-carat gold plating.
March 2017 Jeweller 15
I S C O V E R
Y O U R
IT’S YOUR STORY.
HOW WILL YOU SHARE
IT WITH THE WORLD?
FOLLOW THESE STEPS TO CREATE A PERSONALISED
STACK THAT TELLS YOUR UNIQUE STORY - YOUR WAY
Start from the beginning
with a birthstone
Add something signature
like your initial
Show your favourite colours
Celebrate your unique
energy with a meaningful
symbol you resonate with
Mix in some texture with a
metal beaded bangle
Top it off with your soul
One of a
PERSONALISATION IS A MAJOR
TREND BUT WHAT IS IT ABOUT
BEING IN CHARGE THAT EXCITES
CONSUMERS AND HOW WILL
IT IMPACT JEWELLERY IN 2017?
ANGELA TUFVESSON REPORTS.
ne might say the hype started when customers of luxury
brands like Louis Vuitton and Hermes began requesting
bespoke products in return for the thousands of dollars
they spent on handbags or scarves. In Australia, allowing
customers to choose the colour, material and style of a pair of
shoes has catapulted online retailer Shoes of Prey from three
people to almost 200 across five offices, and all in just seven years.
This is the power of personalisation or customisation, as it’s also
known. Arguably the hottest trend in retail, it flips the switch from
passive buyer to active purchaser and puts the consumer in charge
of their consumption destiny. As a result, the way retailers do
business has undergone a profound shift, even among jewellers
whose wares have long been classed as personalised purchases.
Take Tiffany & Co, for example, which used Instagram to promote
its personalised engraving services as ’thoughtful’ and ’artisanal’
additions to Christmas gifts. Likewise, Pandora Australia introduced
a ‘Gift Bar’ pop-up store concept in time for the 2016 festive season,
where customers could use an interactive, style-matching app
18 Jeweller March 2017
TIFFANY & CO
to choose the perfect gift, after which Pandora supplied personalised
The shift towards personalisation says much about modern
consumers; mostly that people like to add some personal flair to
the products they buy and if retailers want to ensure customer loyalty,
they’d better deliver.
MASTERS OF THEIR OWN DESTINY
According to UK research by Deloitte, 36 per cent of consumers are
interested in personalised products or services and one in five interested
consumers are willing to pay a 20 per cent premium to get it.
“Everyone wants to feel special,” Céline Fenech, consumer business
research manager at Deloitte UK, says. “What used to be the privilege
of a few has become increasingly affordable and accessible to many.
Consumers have not only embraced customised products to express
their individuality and enjoy a level of exclusivity but they are also
rejecting mass-produced goods that ‘fit all’.”
Clinical psychologist Dr Jennifer Baumgartner is the US-based author
of You Are What You Wear: What Your Clothes Reveal About You.
She agrees that increased demand for personalisation signals growing
dissatisfaction with mass-produced goods.
“It’s a response to fast-fashion,” Baumgartner says. “It’s been going on
for a couple of years now as clothing has become more disposable,
easier to get, cheaper, and, as the pace of trends is increasing,
the rates of our trends are almost weekly now. Fast-fashion has a
disposable quality but with customisation we’re able to personalise;
we’re able to make something our own.”
Plus, she continues, personalised fashion is the freest form of selfexpression:
“It allows us to express emotion and be able to tailor
what we wear to what speaks to us and our individuality.”
Does it follow that consumers are becoming increasingly narcissistic?
Pippa Kulmar, a senior strategist at retail consultancy Retail Oasis,
“It comes back to a question of identity and the fact that we are
egocentric beings,” she says. “Having our names on cans of soft
drink and the like signifies identity and who you are as a person.”
Indeed, studies show that narcissism has increased in the last three
decades due to the rise of social media and self-promoting trends.
A report by Washington State University (WSU), University of St
March 2017 Jeweller 19
Gallen and Ruhr University Bochum, titled
It is all about me: role of narcissism in
customised products, found this trend
in narcissism is causing retail and
manufacturing businesses that offer
customisable products to rethink their
marketing strategies. Retailers are advised to
offer products with a variety of customisable
attributes like colour and style in markets
populated by narcissists, as well as share
information such as how frequently an
option is selected by other consumers.
In addition to the need to satisfy their
narcissistic sides, could the preference for
personalisation be attributed to a desire for
consumers to get exactly what they want?
This would be the case if consumers knew
their exact specifications; however, most
consumers don’t have a clear idea of what
they want a pair of shoes, a scarf or piece of
jewellery to look like, University of Geneva
economic psychologist Professor Benjamin
“WITH THINGS LIKE THE SELFIE
TREND, WE’RE MUCH MORE
EGOCENTRIC AND NARCISSISTIC
BUT I DON’T WANT PEOPLE TO VIEW
THAT IN A NEGATIVE LIGHT.”
One of the report’s studies even
demonstrated that businesses could
put consumers into a “temporary narcissistic
state of mind” with marketing techniques.
WSU marketing professor and co-author
of the report David Sprott suggests
businesses could create narcissistic ’states’
with appropriate word choice.
“A Nike tagline ‘my mass-customised Nike
shoes look amazing,’ could be changed to
‘my mass-customised Nike shoes impress,’
to induce a narcissistic state that encourages
a consumer to self-design a unique product,”
Fashion psychologist Dawnn Karen, the
US-based founder of Fashion Psychology
Institute, believes focusing on oneself
isn’t necessarily a negative trait and may
in fact help to develop greater emotional
connection to purchases, which bodes well
“We’re more into ourselves,” she says. “With
things like the selfie trend, we’re much more
egocentric and narcissistic but I don’t want
people to view that in a negative light.”
Instead, Karen states narcissism is a natural
consequence of the move from massproduced
goods to personalised products
that allows consumers to develop stronger
connections to products.
What’s more, he believes personalisation
generally only happens after consumers have
made decisions about core product attributes
like size and colour. Retailers must therefore
be mindful of making sure they help
consumers narrow down their core criteria
before introducing a personalised option so
as not to overcomplicate the process.
“There is a core of features that are really
relevant and drive the decision process,”
Scheibehenne says. “On top of these, there
is a personalisation where you can freely
choose a few aspects – you add a little feature
so that it becomes a product that you can
use to express your personality. I think these
are two different processes that go one after
Dr Isabella Maggioni, a senior research
consultant at the Australian Consumer,
Retail and Services research unit at Monash
Business School, agrees that buying
personalised products can be a more onerous
process for consumers than mass-produced
goods. She says retailers like Shoes of
Prey and Pandora experienced customers
dropping out mid-purchase because the
sheer number of styles and combinations
were so overwhelming. As such, they’ve had
to simplify the buying process.
“What they’ve done is create some
inspirations; some sample styles that a person
can start modifying from,” Maggioni states.
“This helps to reduce the level of effort,
which could be mental effort but also
physical effort to actually customise and put
together a product. This is something that
needs to be taken into account when retailers
and/or brands decide to go down the road
LOYALTY TO BRAND OR SELF?
It may seem like personalisation drives selfloyalty
rather than brand loyalty but Maggioni
says putting the consumer in charge helps to
strengthen ties with brands and retailers.
however, as personalisation influences the
full retail spectrum, does jewellery risk losing
its appeal as a truly personal gift?
Not at all, according to Fenech, who believes
the rise of personalisation presents jewellers
with opportunities rather than threats.
“It encourages more people to see
personalisation as something accessible to
all,” she says. “While some product categories
such as jewellery are better positioned than
others to offer customised products, there
is room for many categories in this space as
there are several degrees and drivers
“WHEN THE CUSTOMER HAS THE
OPPORTUNITY TO CREATE THEIR
OWN STYLE, THEY TEND TO COME
BACK TO THE SAME BRAND.”
Don’t miss your exclusive
opportunity to stock this
must have new collection.
at Kagi today:
P: +64 22 657 8193
“Personalisation is definitely implemented
for loyalty creation,” she says. “It’s about
creating a strong relationship with customers
but making the customer feel the brand
understands them. When the customer has
the opportunity to create their own style,
they tend to come back to the same brand
and they tend to customise products for
other people if they’re doing gifts.”
Karen says personalised products encourage
a stronger sense of ownership that boosts
“Consumers have a strong sense of
ownership and control that they contributed
to the making of this product,” she explains.
“Offering personalised products to
consumers will create more loyalty and more
tie to the brand, which will in turn increase
sales because consumers want everyone to
feel what they felt when they customised
their bracelets – she’s got to tell her mum;
she’s got to tell her sister; she’s got to tell her
best friend; she’s got to tell everyone and
she’s going to get her daughter one on her
INTO THE FUTURE
Long before personalised Coca-Cola cans
and jars of Nutella appeared, consumers
viewed jewellery as a personalised purchase;
This is good news because product
personalisation shows no signs of abating.
“It’s going to be one of the key themes,
especially for this year,” Maggioni
comments. “There are also some interesting
developments in technology such as the
application and potential of 3D printing
– where it is becoming possible to create
specific and customised products on the
spot in store. This is something that is set
to boom in the next few years.”
Further, Maggioni suggests personalisation
perfectly taps into the desires of a ‘new’
generation of consumer: “If we look at the
new generation, those specific needs of
feeling unique, valued and original are key
factors defining the new generation,
in particular Generation Z.”
Ultimately, Fenech says niche
categories like fashion and
jewellery are well placed to
thrive in a personalised
they are products with
which consumers develop
an emotional attachment –
or otherwise. i
TWIN PLAZA METALS
MOTHER’S DAY SHOULD BE
A JOYOUS OCCASION FOR
FAMILIES AND JEWELLERS
ALIKE. EMILY MOBBS FINDS OUT
WHAT IT TAKES TO GET THOSE
CASH REGISTERS RINGING.
n retail, special occasions are worth celebrating and now that Christmas
and Valentine’s Day are over, attention turns to the emotionally-driven
Competition is rife in the gift-giving sector; however, retail industry bodies
such as the Australian Retailers Association (ARA) and the National Retail
Association (NRA) have traditionally listed jewellery as a category that benefits
from additional sales relating to the all-important event.
“Last year, we predicted jewellery sales would reach a whopping $135.3 million,
which was a 4.3 per cent increase compared with 2015 and represented
approximately 8.7 per cent of all sales spent in the lead-up to Mother’s Day,” NRA
CEO Dominique Lamb says.
Overall Mother’s Day retail spend in 2016 was estimated to fall between $1.5
billion and $2 billion, according to the ARA and NRA. ARA executive director
Russell Zimmerman added that Mother’s Day was one of Australia’s biggest
spending occasions, second only to Christmas.
It would appear there’s no shortage of sales to be won. With this in mind, Jeweller
has sought advice from various retail specialists and suppliers on how retailers
can gain their fair share of the sales pie for Mother’s Day, which this year falls on
Sunday May 14.
March 2017 Jeweller 23
When it comes to making a good first impression, Retail Doctor
Group marketing and global retail insights manager Vikki Weston
says jewellers should consider the three-second rule.
“In-store and shop window visual merchandising has just three
seconds to make an impact on a customer,” she states, adding that
it is therefore crucial for retailers to ask themselves if displays capture
attention, clearly show what is sold and motivate consumers to
enter the store.
Natalie Coulter, director of Belle Flaneur and a teacher for Sydney
TAFE’s visual merchandising department, says currency is key to a
successful Mother’s Day display.
“Retailers sometimes fall into the trap of creating a display that’s a
little bit ‘mumsy’ and perhaps dated,” she explains.
Coulter warns against playing victim to ‘soft’ and ‘nurturing’
presentations that can easily look old-fashioned with dried-up fake
flowers and ribbon.
“What we want is to remain really current,” she advises, stating that
identifying Pantone colour trends is a good place to start.
“Greenery is the 2017 Pantone Colour of the Year but there are other
colours in this year’s palette and tones from 2016 like rose quartz and
serenity that are still relevant,” she says.
Coulter also points to homewares, florals, textures and objects – she
says geometric, empty square shapes are in – as areas of inspiration.
Being current doesn’t necessarily mean allocating large budgets for
new display items either.
“I’m all into reinvesting in some really nice Mother’s Day props, and
re-purposing those or re-imagining those year after year,” Coulter
says. “There’s nothing wrong with faux flowers and fake greenery
but let’s take them out [of storage] and look after them like they’re
really precious, and then maybe add the colour of the season into
the display somehow.”
While Coulter believes a Mother’s Day display should be installed
between two and three weeks prior to that special Sunday, Sigrid
de Kaste, a former jeweller and marketing consultant and director
of Stickybeak Marketing, adds that preparations can start as early
as the Christmas before.
“I suggest starting customer research around this [Mother’s Day] as
early as Christmas,” de Kaste says. “Gather what the customers say,
keep records and then use the customers’ words and likes to create
your marketing three weeks out from Mother’s Day.”
So the display is up and running but when should it be taken down?
“No one really wants to look at Mother’s Day the day after Mother’s
Day,” Coulter states, adding, “I would say get your Mother’s Day
window display out [after Sunday close] and replace it with
something really clean.”
“It doesn’t need to include props or anything because you’ve just
put a lot of energy into the Mother’s Day installation. Give yourself
a proper break; give the consumer a break by paring it right back
and then think about what the next holiday is that you can start
DIP FOR A DIAMOND
When asked if she has any out-of-the-box examples of how jewellers
can stand out from the crowd and increase sales, de Kaste recounts
her ‘most successful’ Mother’s Day promotion, Dip for a Diamond, held
when operating her jewellery business.
“We put one quality diamond into a glass jar filled with hundreds of
cubic zirconia of the same size,” she explains.
“The activity started about two weeks out from Mother’s Day and
customers were encouraged to participate by filling in their details
on a slip that went into a box in the shop. They would then use a
pair of diamond tweezers to pick one stone out of the jar, which was
Customers who missed out on the diamond were offered a Mother’s
Day special where they received a complimentary second cubic
zirconia to be made into stud earrings for a set price.
“We also offered to draw the diamond at the end if no one picked
it – hence the details kept – and we made a big deal of the final day
for customers to come into the store for the draw with lots of other
in-store specials,” she adds. “There are many ways this activity can be
used with other jewellery and in other forms – think outside the box
but inside your customer and target market.”
. ,,. ,.
TONES & SILVER
WHOLESALERS OF QUALITY JEWELLERY
ESTABLISHED & TRUSTED SINCE 2003
ALEX AND ANI
Neil Arrowsmith is global CEO of Greater
Group, a retail design consultancy with
customers including Alex and Ani, Pandora,
Bonds, JB Hi-Fi and Vodafone.
As part of research conducted for a jewellery
chain to establish the ‘impact’ of various
types of window displays, Arrowsmith’s
team installed a different display over
four consecutive weeks.
WEEK 1 – Minimalistic display
WEEK 2 – Minimalistic display
with prominent prices
WEEK 3 – Massive ‘hello girls’ type
WEEK 4 – Lots and lots of stock
HEART & GRACE
According to Arrowsmith, the winner – consumers that looked and
entered the store (closure rate wasn’t measured) – was Week 4 by
a ‘significant way’, followed by Week 2.
The test was for a store located in a shopping centre, and Arrowsmith
states that if the store was on a high street with lots of passing road
traffic, then Week 3 would be his overwhelming choice.
Ph: +61 3 9587 1215
Surely, this offers food for thought.
There are many demographics shopping for
Mother’s Day gifts; however, Retail Doctor
Group marketing and global retail insights
manager Vikki Weston says there’s value in
paying attention to men.
“A study conducted in the UK by Mintel
last year found that whilst women are still
more likely to buy a Mother’s Day present
than men, when men do spend, they spend
more,” she explains. “Mintel’s study saw sons
spending £12.18 (approximately AU$20)
more on mothers than daughters did on
Weston says the study also highlights that
men are more likely to purchase on impulse
than women, which is an important factor
to consider. How can retailers ensure men
buy jewellery for Mother’s Day in 2017?
Weston has this advice:
• Remember men seek an efficient and
seamless experience and are less likely
[than women] to wander and ponder
• Sale assistants need to be aware of
body language when interacting with
a male customer – men are often very
self-conscious when shopping for a
gift or in an environment they are not
• Open questions from sales staff based
on practicalities such as budget and
mother’s style work well in generating
conversation and speeding up the
process of the sale for all involved
• Keep the conversation simple when
talking about style. For example, big
bold jewellery versus elegant small
jewellery. The sales assistant should
make recommendations based on this
information but also suggest the store’s
most popular items or Mother’s Day
specials as this will give the customer
confidence in making a decision
• If the sales assistant is not getting great
responses to these questions, don’t
push it as a male consumer will flee if
he feels pressured!
• Pre-packaged gift sets/boxes and small
add-on purchases at POS will always
work well as they take out the stress
and hassle of decision-making
• Suggest a gift receipt if possible so
that the customer knows their mother
can return if they don’t like it. From
my experience, men are more likely to
purchase if they can get a gift receipt
as once again, the risk is minimised
• When it comes to completing the sale,
offer complimentary gift-wrapping.
The majority of male customers are
time poor, self-conscious and can
get frustrated easily within shopping
experiences. Make it easy.
02 9290 2199
watches + jewellery
No amount of marketing and sales expertise will
work unless stores have the goods to back it up.
A selection of suppliers provide insight on some
of the products and special promotions expected
to whet consumer appetites this year.
“Our Thomas Sabo Charm Club spring/summer
2017 collection release features new charms
that are perfect for Mother’s Day gifts. We are
also providing a sales-driving promotion: spend
$99 on Thomas Sabo jewellery to receive a
free Charm Club bracelet.” – Phil Edwards,
Duraflex Group Australia
“We already have a special necklace
called My Mother and are working
on a new piece that will complement
this. In addition, we will give away
our limited edition makeup purse
to consumers with each necklace
sold.” – Helen Thompson-Carter,
“We have South Sea rings, pendants and
stud earrings in 9-carat yellow gold, which
can be purchased separately or as a set
for a special price. We think on this special
occasion, something as beautiful and unique
as South Sea pearls are better suited than
other more common pearls and setting in
9-carat yellow gold makes it all the more
appealing.” – Erica Madsen, Ikecho Pearls
“Our new Cluse La Roche Petite range
launches just in time for Mother’s Day – a
33 mm face made from natural marble to
create a beautifully unique watch. We are
also running a special gift pack featuring two
of our best-selling items – the La Boheme
watch and additional strap.” –
Simon Garber, Heart & Grace
“We are launching a dedicated Alex and Ani
collection of Mother’s Day pieces, designed
to celebrate the unconditional love of
mum. The highlight pieces are a stunning
three-piece value set in light blue or light
aqua with ‘Mum’ on the enamel. We are
introducing another set called Infinite Love,
which is a two-piece value set – one with
‘Daughter’ and one with ‘Mother’.” –
Karin Adcock, House of Brands
“Mother’s Day is big for our brand, Stow Lockets.
We expect pieces such as this 9-carat gold
Stow locket and chain featuring various charms,
including the gold Stowaway boy, girl and my
family, to work well as a precious gift for mum.” –
Daniel Adriatico, Stow Lockets
watches + jewellery
p +61 (0)8 8221 5580
exclusive distributor AU & NZ
“Consumers who spend more than $129 will receive our
‘Love You’ necklace as a gift. The necklace includes an
engraved 12 mm sterling silver disc with thread-through
belcher chain and is reversible. The offer is available to
retailers in packs of 10.” – Jo Tory, Najo
tulip and diamond
TWO INVESTMENT BUBBLES OVER
340 YEARS APART PROVIDE PROOF
OF EDMUND BURKE’S FAMOUS
OBSERVATION THAT THOSE WHO
DO NOT KNOW HISTORY ARE
DOOMED TO REPEAT IT. NURIT
t was 1554 when Ogier Ghiselin de Busbecq, ambassador of Holy Roman
Emperor Ferdinand I to the court of Suleiman the Magnificent, the Sultan
of the Ottoman Empire, returned to Vienna from Constantinople carrying
the first tulip bulbs ever seen in Western Europe. Little did he know that
this simple act would set off a chain of events resulting in the first
speculative bubble in recorded history.
It would become known as Tulip Mania – Tulips began popping up from Vienna
to Augsburg and all the way west to the shores of the North Sea; however, their
transformation into the national flower of the Netherlands began in 1593 after
Flemish botanist Carolus Clusius published an academic paper at the University
of Leiden that showed the plants were unusually able to tolerate and adapt to
the difficult and harsh weather conditions of the Low Countries. Weather was
not the only reason for the increasing popularity of the tulip, whose intense
colours provide it with a noble appearance that certainly helped turn it into a
sought-after status symbol.
All this was happening during a period when the Netherlands was at the
height of its economic prowess. An abundance of wealth held by its citizens
coupled with an undersupply of tulips led to the price of tulips doubling
from year to year. As the economic benefits of the trend became more obvious,
the number of individuals getting in on the action rose exponentially – flower
auctions were taking place everywhere in Amsterdam, Haarlem and other
Dutch cities; people were taking out loans to trade in futures, which essentially
meant buying plants that had not yet grown, let alone bloomed. Contracts
could be purchased one day and sold the next for a sizeable premium and it
seemed prices could go nowhere else but up.
At the height of Tulip Mania in the winter of 1637, certain single tulip bulbs
were being sold for more than 10 times the annual income of a skilled
professional then, suddenly and without warning, a rumour spread about one
specific type of tulip not finding a buyer at auction. The startling news spread
quickly and panic set in. Like all bubbles, this one had burst. Investors were left
with little more than a handful of dry and almost worthless tulip bulbs.
THE TURN OF DIAMOND MANIA
For diamond industry old-timers, the story of Tulip Mania will rekindle stilltraumatic
memories of the diamond investment bubble in the late 1970s
and early 1980s.
It essentially began in 1976 when an Israeli government anxious to attract
foreign currency through the quick development of its country’s diamond
industry began supplying huge amounts of capital to the commercial banks
at very low interest rates. By passing the discount onto their clients, it was
hoped that the Israeli diamond sector would manage to increase inventory
and, consequently, exports.
March 2017 Jeweller 29
inventories and receivables, were forced to declare bankruptcy, among them
some of the most well-known names in the industry. Recovery did not come
until about 1987 on the back of the massive expansion of a diamond-jewellery
buying culture in Japan.
As part of the new policy, US dollars brought into Israel through the sale of
diamonds received more favourable exchange rates. This made speculating in
rough diamonds a particularly attractive prospect, resulting in the creation of
apparent demand for rough, which bore no relationship to what was happening
in the polished diamond market.
Because prices were rising so rapidly, it made sense for companies to simply retrade
boxes of rough rather than cut and polish them as there was no certainty
that they would get a viable return in the polished diamond consumer markets.
Making matters worse, the standard practice was for a diamantaire to deposit
their rough in a bank as collateral for a low-interest loan, which then was mainly
being used to buy more rough diamonds. Israel’s three main diamond-financing
banks were holding enough over-valued inventory to threaten the stability of
the entire world market.
The fever that began in Israel spread to Antwerp and New York and also began
catching the attention of speculators in the investment community. Diamond
investment firms began opening in the US and Europe, promoting one carat
and larger polished diamonds, sometimes with buy-back agreements.
In March 1977, a 1-carat, D-colour, flawless diamond was selling in the trade
for US$7,200 (AU$9,360). Three years later, in March 1980, that same stone could
fetch more than US$60,000 (AU$78,000).
THE SPECULATIVE BUBBLE BURSTS
In an attempt to prevent the markets from veering completely out of control,
De Beers Group began adding sizeable surcharges on sightholder boxes in the
spring of 1978, making it known to the Israeli banks that they were effectively
financing diamonds at grossly-inflated values.
The first surcharge was 40 per cent in March 1978 and that was followed by a
25 per cent surcharge in May, a 15 per cent surcharge in June and a 10 per cent
surcharge in July. The diamond producer also cancelled the sights of companies
that it knew were taking premiums on unopened boxes or who were simply
De Beers then instituted a 30 per cent average price increase in August 1978,
a 13 per cent price increase in September 1979 and a 12 per cent price increase
in February 1980.
De Beers’ actions, coupled with the onset of a severe economic recession in
the US and Western Europe, led to the deflation and ultimate bursting of the
Equilibrium was eventually re-established in the rough diamond market and
the prices for high-quality polished stones began returning to more reasonable
levels. Between March 1980 and September 1981, the value of a 1-carat,
D-colour, flawless diamond halved and, by September 1985, it was selling at
about 20 per cent of its price just four years earlier.
The effect of this on the diamond sector was devastating. Hundreds of
companies that were holding onto debts, sometimes worth multiples of their
INVESTMENT PROSPECTS FOR A NON-COMMODITY
The popularity of a diamond as a means of investment in the late 1970s
coincided with a general increase in the commodity investment market;
however, the fact is that diamonds have always had difficulty conforming to
the profile of a typical commodity.
Commonly, commodities are products that can be bought in bulk and usually
do not have any – or very few – distinguishing characteristics among individual
units. A general requirement for a product to be treated as a commodity is that
units can be mutually substituted. For example, copper and oil are commodities,
where the price per unit changes almost daily across the globe, according to
supply and demand on various commodity markets. The number of copper
and oil categories is limited. In contrast, a car is not a commodity because it is
produced in numerous different-quality levels and different types. The same
essentially is true of the diamond.
When rough diamonds arrive from the mines, De Beers’ Diamond Trading
Company sorts them into more than 11,000 different categories according to
their size, shape, quality and colour. Polished gem-quality diamonds come in
hundreds of different categories, based on the particular permutations of carat,
clarity, colour, cut and shapes of the stones. It is virtually impossible to substitute
one diamond for another and therefore it is almost impossible to qualify the
diamond as a commodity.
Despite both this and also the trauma of the investment bubble of the 1970s
and 1980s, many diamond dealers still fantasize about selling their products as
they would a commodity, believing that this will open another sales avenue.
This is not to say that diamonds do not have investment value. They most
certainly do but their value is mainly as preservers of wealth. When the diamond
business works properly, diamond prices are non-volatile and they rise slowly
and steadily, hopefully a few ticks above the rate of inflation.
The anchor of the diamond business remains the jewellery market and the bridal
jewellery market in particular. In the US, the country that is responsible for more
than 40 per cent of all diamond sales, up to 85 per cent of the diamond jewellery
are associated with matrimony.
It is also worth remembering that, regardless of the ebb and flow of economies
or the inflation and deflation of speculative bubbles, young people continue
to get married and, when they do, they generally buy diamonds. The industry’s
primary mission is to make certain that they continue doing so.
For those who are interested in learning more about the disturbing but
fascinating story of the diamond investment bubble of the 1970s and 1980s,
please read An Economic Review of the Past Decade in Diamonds, which was
written by William E Boyajian, then-president of the Gemological Institute of
America (GIA), in 1988. It was published in the autumn 1988 edition of the GIA
Gems and Gemology journal. i
NURIT ROTHMANN specialises in brokering rough
diamond deals, managing tenders and writing market
reports. Learn more: n-rothmann.com
30 Jeweller March 2017
Lifting the lid
on retail trends
A RAFT OF DEVELOPMENTS ARE
EMERGING TO MEET CHANGING
RICHARD SHAPIRO PROVIDES
INSIGHT ON THE TOP TRENDS
TO IMPACT RETAILERS IN 2017.
ast year was an exciting one for the retail industry. A parade of innovative
options, widgets and new businesses wowed consumers and continued
to drive a sea change in their preferences and expectations. Online and
bricks-and-mortar retailers alike found themselves scrambling to stay
relevant and competitive. Retailers can expect more of the same in 2017
as shifting consumer attitudes force them to rethink and possibly reinvent their
channels, product mixes and service strategies.
The New Year promises to be a winner for retailers and consumers alike. Looking
ahead, here are some of the trends expected to feature.
THE RISE OF THE REVIEW
When Amazon began encouraging its customers back in 1995 to post reviews of
the products they were purchasing, the initial reaction was that the online retailer
had lost its marbles. Some critics considered it a recipe for retail suicide. Fastforward
20 years and reviews are now a fixture of retail that consumers trust and
rely upon more than ever.
March 2017 Jeweller 31
Who doesn’t scour reviews to find the ‘perfect’ hotel or vacuum cleaner?
Consumers have become review junkies, studying product comments and
relying on the customer community to answer their toughest questions.
In 2017, businesses will be evaluating comments from their customers and their
competitor’s customers more diligently, using ad hoc reviews strategically and
responding to those who comment in a more systematic fashion.
BRICKS-AND-MORTAR IS STILL RELEVANT
Bricks-and-mortar will experience continued stagnation in 2017 because of the
onslaught of online shopping; however, this stagnation comes with a caveat as
the good news for many terrestrial retail categories, particularly jewellery, is that
the basic human need to see, touch, feel and try items before purchasing is an
enduring one that will keep traditional retailers alive.
Online searches for locations nearest to shoppers are on the upswing, indicating
that consumers still want ‘hands on’ before they buy. Further proof of the power
of bricks-and-mortar is the fact that Amazon has announced plans to expand its
physical footprint by opening stores in Australia.
MORE BRAND-ONLY STORES
Brands will continue to open company-owned boutiques. This concept holds
undeniable appeal for any brand wanting to tell and control its own story, sales,
inventory and service ethos in a way that many department stores are simply
unprepared to do.
This doesn’t mean brands will cease selling product via independent retailers
but it does mean they will be more selective and allow only those retailers who
provide exceptional customer service to carry their inventory.
SENSORY CUSTOMER EXPERIENCES
The customer experience is all encompassing. Stores today aren’t just about the
products and services they offer. Look, feel and aroma are all key brand markers
important to the experience now. Brands are creating proprietary scents not
only for use in stores but also for use in the packaging of online purchases –
consumers will recognise the brand before they even open the box! Lighting,
colour, scent, texture, sound and taste will all become an integral part of the
AMAZON’S PHASE 2 – SHOPPING WITH ALEXA
Amazon continues to take centre stage and it’s not only due to great customer
service, competitive pricing, an unbeatable product mix, reliable user reviews,
strong support and the gold standard Prime membership program offering
member discounts, same-day delivery and entertainment options.
Now, Amazon’s ‘Just Ask’ feature on virtual assistant Echo (Alexa) has essentially
made shopping effortless. Alexa offers daily promotions and special deals,
supported by a device in Echo that knows the customer’s buying history,
delivery address and payment preferences. The reverberations of this winning
combination will be felt by every retailer; it’s a game changer forcing other
businesses to work even harder to make their shopping experience easy.
GEO-FENCING, GEO-TARGETING, GEO-CONQUESTING
Location and proximity-based messaging with store beacons is fast becoming
a predominant tool that bricks-and-mortar retailers use to communicate with
nearby and in-store customers. It’s still early days for this technology yet it
already takes many forms – US clothing and accessories retailer American Eagle
Outfitters sends targeted offers to any shopper with the store’s app installed just
as that shopper pulls into the car park; meat production company Oscar Mayer
uses deli counter beacons to geo-target customers, highlighting menu specials
including its products. Geo-conquesting, meanwhile, allows businesses to send
customers messages when they are about to visit a competitor.
Luxury watch brand Audemars Piquet is another example of retailers using
beacon technology – when a customer picks up a watch in-store, a screen
providing information about that model’s price and technical specifications
automatically opens on a nearby smart device. Beacon technology is poised
to outgrow its current, relatively-limited geographic range in 2017 as an array
of new applications emerge.
Retailers will enhance and personalise the in-store shopping experience through
the use of holograms and virtual reality displays. One such application lets
customers ‘try on’ an outfit without ever changing clothes, while others create
entire virtual environments.
Retailers will be particularly drawn to the technology as they discover how
relatively little physical space is required to create dynamic 3D experiences.
Outdoor sports retailer The North Face has fashioned a display that places the
customer in the middle of Yosemite National Park, while US hardware giant
Lowe’s uses Microsoft’s HoloLens technology to let any homeowner design their
virtual dream kitchen with every imaginable appliance.
SHOPPING CENTRES IN TRANSITION
The traditional shopping centre is passé. Today’s consumer wants everything
conveniently located in one place. Thus the shopping centre is being redefined
as a multi-purpose space that showcases not only traditional staples such as
clothing, fashion accessories, home goods and food but also neighbourhoodstyle
shops and services.
In these new shopping centres, consumers will find everything they need,
including doctor’s offices, schools, libraries, hair salons, grocery stores, real estate
and business offices, restaurants, movie theatres and, yes, residential apartments.
The idea is once people enter, they’ll never have to leave. Look at Hudson Yards
in Manhattan and similar projects in Australia like Arden Gardens in Melbourne
and Northshore Hamilton in Brisbane as the new standard.
THINK HUMAN-CONNECT FIRST
THEN WORK BACKWARDS TO
ADD THE TECHNOLOGY FEATURES
THAT CUSTOMERS ARE MOST
LIKELY TO USE, LOVE AND TELL
THEIR FRIENDS ABOUT
Consumers feel busier than ever before and they appreciate instant gratification.
This, coupled with the staggering popularity of mobile and online shopping,
have given rise to an army of consumers who purchase on their devices then
drive to nearby outlets to retrieve their bounty. Savvy computer hardware
and software business Newegg now offers a free ‘will-call’ service option that
32 Jeweller March 2017
provides local customers the convenience of pick up from the Newegg Hybrid
Centre in place of shipping. Bricks-and-mortar retailers that make the pickup
process an effortless and positive experience for online buyers are sure to
generate repeat business. Naturally, this won’t work with all jewellery purchases
but may be an option for branded jewellery products that customers are
comfortable purchasing online.
GPS DELIVERY TRACKING
Today’s consumers expect companies to have technology in place to pinpoint
deliveries. Some businesses do fulfil this request but others have yet to make
the necessary investment. If shoppers want to know if that pizza they ordered
is still in the oven or almost at the door, Domino’s has the solution. Similar to
Uber’s technology, the company’s ‘pizza tracker’ uses GPS to let customers know
exactly where the driver is on the route. No matter what the good or service is,
telling customers their purchases are “on the way” is no longer adequate.
THE PACKAGING REVOLUTION
Everyone loves receiving parcels and this feeling is being upgraded through
enhanced package design. Packaging is an integral part of the customer
experience, significant for both the brand and the retailer. It is another piece of
the differentiator puzzle and supports a business’ unique signature. Can anyone
imagine receiving an Apple product in a large box filled with styrofoam peanuts
or bubble wrap?
Companies such as Harry’s and Dollar Shave Club have become fierce
competitors to Gillette, a division of Procter and Gamble – shavers, razor blades
and shaving creams arrive automatically and are specifically tailored to a
consumer’s individual preferences.
This is built-in repeat business and what more could any retailer ask? In addition
to consistently selecting and sending only the right stuff, astute subscription
services such as Trunk Club, Birchbox and Loot Crate utilise innovative, distinctive
packaging that enhances the customer experience. It’s happening in the
jewellery sector too. Businesses such as Myntbox, Bezel Box and Rocksbox are
offering jewellery on a subscription service basis.
Social networks have for some time permitted and occasionally even helped
users sell to one another but with the official entry of Facebook Marketplace –
the social media giant’s version of peer-to-peer e-commerce allowing users to
buy and sell items within their personal networks – retailers owe it to themselves
to take notice and watch what happens next.
RENTING VERSUS OWNING
The notion of a sustainable economy is often in the news and one result is an
increasing appreciation of the economics of sharing, especially among the
youth. How often is a suitcase used? What about a leaf blower? Does every
home on the block really need one? Rent the Runway has revolutionised the
way women are ‘purchasing’ evening gowns and accessories, while subscription
service Rocksbox uses a ‘loan’ model. This trend is neither new nor a trifling one
in some European nations so don’t be surprised as it takes hold in other regions.
No doubt inspired by the success of Amazon Prime, most major retailers are
experimenting with membership programs. Bed Bath and Beyond is looking
to eliminate its coveted “20 per cent off a single item” coupon that customers
receive in the mail, online or clip from a magazine. The business has initiated an
invitation-only, fee-based membership loyalty program that offers 20 per cent
off the entire purchase any time a member customer shops in one of its stores
or online. Free shipping is included, of course. Given that membership fees
have historically helped improve business margins, it’s a win-win combination,
especially for those consumers who are already loyal shoppers.
Wearable technology was a significant trend last year and there have been more
major advancements – fashion designers are working to create gowns that use
technology to glow in the dark and produce other special effects, for example.
With the advent of IBM’s Watson technology, apparel manufacturers are making
garments that think – fabrics that get lighter or heavier as the temperature
changes from day to night; Nike just released self-lacing sneakers.
While this trend is more to do with apparel, it’s possible that jewellery pieces
might start including technology similar to those in smart watches. This is
only the tip of the iceberg where wearables are concerned and the sector will
develop in years to come.
Trends come and go but an overwhelming number of consumers now describe
customer service as “very important” when selecting a business. According
to the 2016 Microsoft State of Global Customer Service report, 55 per cent of
customers have higher expectations for service today than they did a year ago.
With transactions ‘de-humanised’ through innovation, the human element is
even more central. Embrace the noteworthy 2017 trends, run with the changes
and remember that any channel can employ the human connection.
Think human-connect first then work backwards to add the technology features
that customers are most likely to use, love and tell their friends about.
For more 2017 retail trend insights, turn to page 41. i
RICHARD SHAPIRO is founder of The Center For Client Retention,
offering research, training and consulting services, and author of
The Endangered Customer: Eight Steps to Guarantee Repeat Business.
Learn more: tcfcr.com
March 2017 Jeweller 33
An intimate affair
IT MIGHT HAVE BEEN SMALLER
IN SIZE THAN PREVIOUS YEARS
BUT EMILY MOBBS DISCOVERS
THERE WERE STILL RETAILERS
AND SUPPLIERS READY TO DO
BUSINESS AT THE BRISBANE FAIR.
he Australian Jewellery Fair (AJF) drew to a close in Brisbane on
Monday February 27.
The AJF marked the local industry’s first trade show of the year and
although it was a smaller-sized fair, most exhibitors seemed to have
set expectations accordingly and there was a general positive atmosphere
on the floor.
Stones and Silver managing director Cheryle Roberts said she was pleased
with results over the two-day event.
“It’s a small show but we gained new customers on Sunday and the last
few hours of Monday have been good so we’re happy,” Roberts stated,
adding that the supplier’s new uncut diamond range set in black wax
received significant attention.
34 Jeweller March 2017
BRISBANE FAIR REPORT
It seemed Brisbane fair visitors were on the hunt for fresh offerings;
Kagi sales manager Rachael McLeod also noted that the exhibitor’s
latest range gained a favourable response.
“Our Confetti collection, which is set to launch in May, has done
really well,” she said. “We have had lots of really strong feedback.”
Along with the more established suppliers like Timesupply – which
distributes Coeur de Lion – Peter W Beck and World Shiner, there
were a number of first-time exhibitors.
Portobello was one new stand that appeared to be busy throughout
the show. Portobello director Astral Maheshwari explained that
the supplier had introduced its personalised jewellery range
Kameleon at the fair and that they had received lots of enquiries
and positive feedback.
Another first-time exhibitor – and also the only watch supplier
present – was Mulco Watches Australia. CEO Richard Ramos said
most buyers were at the show in search of jewellery; however,
several were open to his range once they saw it.
The diamond and gemstone sectors were represented as well.
DSM (Pacific), which specialises in diamonds, seemed to have
steady traffic at its stand over the two days, as did The Gemstone
The Gemstone Trading Company’s Jack Sahagian said Sunday trading
was positive, with sapphire, morganite and aquamarine proving to
be ‘hot’ gemstones.
OTHER NOTABLE MENTIONS
Perhaps unlike previous years when there was a rush of visitors as
soon as doors opened, buyers seemed to trickle in across Sunday
One set of visitors that could not go unnoticed on the first day was
a group of almost 30 jewellers that had travelled from Indonesia.
The group were taking part in an Australia Awards program –
organised by Griffith University with support from the Australian
Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade – that aimed to boost trade
between Indonesia and Australia.
Indonesian Ministry of Trade representative Pipit Roesfitawati said
both countries had huge trade potential and that the AJF reflected
a “global market view for [jewellery] product”. While the visit was
primarily used as a networking opportunity, some visitors reportedly
purchased jewellery at the show and others were considering
exhibiting at future Australian fairs.
Several education seminars were also held on the show floor.
A presentation by QLD Police detective senior sergeant Jason
Hindmarsh on Sunday was one notable session.
Organised in light of the spate of jewellery store armed robberies
in Melbourne, Hindmarsh outlined crime trends in Australia and
Queensland as well as target hardening strategies for jewellers.
The 2017 AJF was held at the Brisbane Convention and
Exhibition Centre. i
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Grading through GAA has
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my sales have increased
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REVEALING INCLUSIONS: SAPPHIRE
FIGURE 1. NATURAL, BEHT SAPPHIRE
Inclusions are an integral part of
identifying any range of treatments
that can be applied to gemstones to
boost value. JUNE MACKENZIE reports.
If diamonds are a girl’s best friend then
inclusions are surely a gemmologist’s best
friend. Taking sapphires as an example,
inclusions determine whether a gemstone is
natural, natural but heat-treated, natural but
beryllium heat-treated (BeHT) or synthetic.
Although there are synthetic flux sapphires
and synthetic hydrothermal sapphires on
the market, generally the favoured synthetic
used in the trade is flame fusion, also known
as Verneuil and named after the man who
invented it. This is also the cheapest.
While there are gemmological tests to
determine what type of sapphire is being
tested, a 10X loupe or microscope with
higher magnification enhancing the
inclusions usually provides confirmation.
FIGURE 2. SYNTHETIC, FLAME FUSION SAPPHIRE
Sapphires may undergo more than one
treatment. One mine-run (batch) of
gemstones may undergo many different
treatments, making it difficult for anyone who
has not been involved with the processes to
be able to determine the type of treatments
and how many have been undertaken.
A natural sapphire showing liquid films
proves that the gemstone has not been
heated or treated as these films would
disperse or explode upon any type of
treatment. A sapphire containing iridescent
‘silk’ of rutile needles, some with ‘arrow twins’
in a nest, also proves lack of heat-treatment.
A natural sapphire that has been heat-treated
may show various tell-tale signs, such as
long rutile needles that have been damaged
and become lines of tiny particles. Discoid
fractures may also be present. These are
generally roundish and shiny or mirror-like
in appearance with little sign of healing.
PROVES THAT THE
NOT BEEN HEATED
Depending on the heat, crystals within the
sapphire may be damaged to varying degrees
as different crystals have different melting
points. For example, rutile has a melting
point of 1,600 degrees Celsius, zircon of 1,855
degrees Celsius and corundum of 2,030
degrees Celsius to 2,050 degrees Celsius.
BeHT sapphires often change colour; they
may have been blue or greenish-blue
and change to orange after treatment as
demonstrated by the Songean sapphire
(Figure 1). Depending on the period of time
that a sapphire is exposed to heat during
the beryllium treatment, the colour may not
completely diffuse into the gemstone but a
different coloured rim from the colour in the
centre of the gemstone may be visible when
immersed in liquid. Blue, circular inclusions
may be present as well as flux droplets.
Synthetic, flame fusion sapphires may contain
bubbles, undissolved nutrient and curved
striae. Some may show streaks of tiny bubbles
known as brush strokes, which also confirm
their identity (Figure 2).
These examples indicate the importance of
inspection of a gemstone to indicate its status
as natural, treated or synthetic – invaluable
information for gemmologists and jewellers.
Retailers need to be aware that some
treatments greatly affect the price of a
gemstone. In addition, the Australian
Competition and Consumer Commission
(ACCC) states that businesses in Australia
must be able to guarantee what they sell.
If gemstones are treated, then this must
be disclosed to the customer and written
on their receipt. To finish, never forget that
inclusions can also tell a wonderful story
about gemstones. i
June Mackenzie FGAA Dip DT, is a qualified
gemmologist and gemmology teacher in NSW.
She is the developer and presenter of the GAA
Advanced Gemstone Inclusions course.
For more information, visit: gem.org.au
March 2017 Jeweller 37
STRENGTH IN NUMBERS
Entering my fifth term as the president of the
JAA, I look upon the opportunities of the year
ahead and imagine what the industry can
achieve when we work together. With many
exciting developments coming to fruition in
2017, it is imperative that we look towards
the potential of the Australian jewellery
industry and forge head-first into the future.
The new year brings forth exciting
developments for our association. The JAA
board of directors appointed at the annual
general meeting held in October 2016 see
myself and Brett Bolton nominated by the
general membership. Directors nominated
and elected through the National Industry
Advisory Council (NIAC) include Karen Lindley
– supplier representative; Frank Salera – retailer
representative; and George Proszkowiec –
buying group representative. Proszkowiec
also remains the vice president of the board.
The movement of NIAC representations has
allowed the co-opted director’s position on
the board to become vacant, and will allow
the board to bring in fresh approaches and
special skills as required. An announcement
will be made in due course regarding the
appointment of the co-opted position.
In addition to these appointments, a special
resolution was passed at the JAA annual
general meeting in 2016, implementing
changes to the constitution. This resolution
enables the staggering of terms for directors
appointed via general members and the NIAC.
I foresee that once elections for NIAC directors
and elected directors are held in alternate
years, we will see greater consistency within
the board as projects and events may run
across consecutive years.
THIS YEAR, IT
WE CAN MAKE
I would also like to extend a warm welcome to
the new faces joining the NIAC in 2017: John
Rose from West End Collection – watch sector
councillor; Jane Williams from JW Jewellery
– SA/NT state councillor; Peter Keep from
Jewellery Creations by Peter Keep – WA state
councillor; Tony Smallwood from Advanced
Gemmological Services – opal sector
councillor and JAA CIBJO representative; and
Lucas Blacker from Gold and Silversmiths
Guild of Australia (GSGA) – GSGA councillor.
I am also pleased to welcome the GSGA,
who will be providing a representative to be
involved in NIAC strategic planning in 2017.
Additionally, Josh Zarb, Leading Edge Group
councillor, will continue as NIAC chair for 2017.
Lastly, I would like to acknowledge the great
effort of our outgoing councillors, Ken Anania,
Tony Nash, Phil Edwards and Carson Webb.
In conclusion, I ask that you keep an eye
out for the co-opted director’s position
appointment when it is announced. We now
have a chance to welcome a new director
who will bring new ideas and added input
to the board and bring us forward into 2017.
This year, it is important to remember that
there is strength in numbers and together we
can make meaningful contributions to the
Australian jewellery industry.
Finally, I welcome members to have their
say and contact us with anything regarding
the industry or the association by visiting
jaa.com.au. Remember this is your association
and your involvement and participation
ensures not only our future but prosperity
for the whole industry.
Suite 33, Level 8,
99 York Street,
Sydney NSW, 2000
Telephone: 02 9262 2862
Freecall: 1800 657 762
Member and Consumer
Jeweller is the official
magazine of the Jewellers
Association of Australia
(JAA) but is published
Gunnamatta Media Pty
Ltd. The views expressed in
Jeweller do not necessarily
reflect those of the JAA
and comments should be
addressed to the Editor.
38 Jeweller March 2017
Sarah Rothe has shaped herself into a fine
craftsman with a strong and vibrant jewellery
practice by studying jewellery design,
undertaking excellent training opportunities
and applying herself through hard work.
Based in Adelaide, where she runs Sarah
Rothe Jewellery and Design, Rothe graduated
in 2006 from the Adelaide Centre for the
Arts – now known as the Adelaide College
of the Arts – with a Bachelor of Visual Arts
and Applied Design specialising in Jewellery
Design. She then joined the Jam Factory’s
associate training program in the metal
studio under creative director Sue Lorraine.
The Jam Factory is a hub for learning and
creativity with purpose-built studios that
provides skills and business training for
artists and designers across a two-year
program. This was a good opportunity
for Rothe as the Jam Factory is supported
by the South Australian Government and
recognised globally as a centre for excellence
that supports and promotes outstanding
design and craftsmanship.
During this period, Rothe also completed
a residency at the Pottery Workshop in
Jingdezhen, China. Again, this offered a great
opportunity for learning as the academy is
set up to assist emerging artists to realise
their visions and build sustainable practices.
By 2010, Rothe was at the Gray Street
Workshop in Adelaide, which is a collectivelyrun
studio and access facility for artists
working in the field of contemporary
jewellery. The philosophy of the workshop
is to encourage a rich exchange of ideas
and knowledge between established and
experienced jewellers and those who are
emerging in their careers.
Throughout her studies and commercial
life, Rothe has developed her own business
philosophy: “I aim to create and promote
unique and contemporary jewellery that
inspires.” She applies this philosophy in her
business, Sarah Rothe Jewellery and Design,
which is based in the Regent Arcade in
Adelaide’s CBD, and says the arts-based and
conceptual training she has garnered in
contemporary jewellery has helped her find
a point of difference.
“There are certainly many other retail spaces
similar to mine but I predominantly support
other South Australian makers and designers,
as well as stocking and making my own work,”
Rothe explains, adding, “In my own practice, I
primarily specialise in contemporary titanium
as well as making custom pieces in more
traditional precious metals and gemstones.”
Rothe also regularly exhibits and sells her
work at design markets and fairs across
Australia. The jeweller says she was initially
interested in joining the JAA because she
wanted to become more involved and
support the wider jewellery industry.
“For many years the contemporary/art
jewellery makers and the trade jewellery
industry have been quite separated. I would
like to see more interaction and support for
each other,” she states.
From this year, Rothe is a committee member
of the JAA South Australian branch and says
she will “look forward to contributing my
experience and perspective as well as gaining
wider knowledge in other areas that are not
She also sees opportunity in being a JAA
member: “It really is a wonderful chance
AND I DO NOT
to showcase your work with the potential
for receiving a great deal of promotion and
exposure across relevant platforms.”
When asked about her hobbies, Rothe
comments, “I must admit, like many others
I suspect, that jewellery is all consuming and
I do not pursue too many other activities
outside of jewellery and my business.”
Roche takes satisfaction in her hard work to
date, which has resulted in unique exposure
for many of her designs.
She lists some highlights as creating a brooch
for the US 2016 presidential candidate, Hillary
Clinton, and contributing a neck-piece from
the same collection to the Powerhouse
Museum in Sydney.
Rothe has this advice for emerging designers:
“Stay true to your passion and work hard for
what you want. It may take longer than you
envisage to establish the practice you want,
stay determined.” i
March 2017 Jeweller 39
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industry run event? With limited spaces available, don't miss your
opportunity to expose your brand, products and services. Unite
now with quality Australian providers.
To secure your involvement call 02 9262 2862
MAJOR TRENDS EXPECTED TO IMPACT RETAIL
The future is bright for service-oriented
traditional retailers as new technologies
and platforms emerge to help them
ensnare customers away from online
outlets. DAVID BROWN reports.
There is no doubt the retail game has
undergone some massive changes in the
past few years and the pace of change will
only continue to increase as technology
develops and customers demand more.
Recently, I did a little research online in this
area and discovered a few different opinions
on future trends of retail. I have summarised
those with which I agree, adding my own
beliefs on what retailers can expect to see
over the next couple of years.
RISING DEMAND FOR EXPERIENCES
Customers are increasingly expecting more
than just products from retailers. Already,
much of what consumers buy can be sourced
online for at least the same price, if not less.
Where bricks-and-mortar retailers still offer
a significant advantage over online retailers
is in the physical experience – the ability to
tap into all five senses of touch, smell, sight,
hearing and taste. Of these five, only sight
and sound can be offered online and, even
then, in a relatively-limited regard.
The future success of traditional retail
depends upon the sector’s ability to harness
the advantages that a real world environment
can provide. This trend is evident in several
shopping centres where concierge services,
unique food concepts and even mini theme
parks are being used to drive foot traffic;
however, independent retailers including
jewellers need to adopt more of this
experience approach into stores.
PENCHANT FOR EDUCATION
Hand-in-hand with the user experience is
education. The introduction of in-store yoga
classes by retailers of high-profile fitness
apparel is an example of this. Apple has also
offered classes in using its computers and
software for some time.
The higher the quality and perceived luxury
of a product, the greater a consumer’s
expectations are of retailers to provide valueadded
information and experiences –
I recently purchased some Miele kitchen
TO HARNESS THE
A REAL WORLD
appliances and was not only offered advice
on how to clean and care for our appliances
but also given cooking lessons. Nowadays,
even shoppers buying dress jeans will often
receive cleaning and care instructions.
Jewellery stores have been providing basic
cleaning and care instructions for decades
and it’s no secret to them that this is an
important part of the jewellery experience
that needs to be celebrated and delivered
with enthusiasm in order to meet consumer
expectations. Today, more jewellery retailers
are also offering comprehensive service plans
that not only generate significant cash-flow
but encourage frequent repeat store visits,
and thus sale opportunities, as well.
Looking for more inspiration? Hats off should
go to Sydney-based Gregory Jewellers, which
recently held a watchmaking class allowing
customers to disassemble and reassemble an
IWC Schaffhausen watch movement.
RENT DON’T BUY
The shared economy has been one of the
biggest driving changers in recent years.
Businesses like Uber and Airbnb have
March 2017 Jeweller 41
harnessed people’s desire to borrow not buy
and this will present opportunities for savvy
retailers to tap into this trend. It will require
a little thinking outside the square but it’s
an area worth watching.
One way this could be adapted for the
jewellery industry is a finance and credit
model. This system has become an
increasingly important selling tool for the
chain stores, with some boasting about
having a good percentage of customers on
finance permanently – once a customer has
completed payment for one item of jewellery,
they roll the monthly payment into the next
item. Even a small amount like $20 per week
adds up to more than $5,000 across five years
without the customer really noticing.
This is also a good way to capture the lifetime
value of customers. Why would they go to
another jewellery store or any other retail
outlet for that next special birthday gift when
they already have a standing relationship?
In addition, discounting tends to be far less
of an issue when finance terms are offered.
VISION AND PASSION
Customers are increasingly searching for
retailers who have a vision and a passion
for what they do and what they represent.
Consumers no longer want just a product;
they want to believe in the businesses from
which they purchase.
It’s no longer enough for retailers to be in it
for the money alone. Successful stores evolve
and adjust based on the rapidly changing
retail jewellery scene. Others resort to
discounting or run never-ending sales as a
way to combat more sophisticated operators
who are stealing market share away from
them; however, this does neither them nor
the industry any favours.
Those businesses that seek to create and
refine their unique points of difference
create an environment that sets them apart.
Rather than trying to compete with the
chain stores, they seek to establish their own
markets, which is the right approach because
discerning customers are increasingly
looking for specialisation, customisation and
personalisation. In other words, consumers
want to deal with experts who can customise
jewellery for them instead of selling them
the same mass-produced products found in
every shopping centre across the country.
ADAPTING FOR BABY BOOMERS
The Baby Boomer generation is ageing but
they still represent a significant amount of the
retail spend and will continue to do so for the
This means adapting to their needs with
more legible displays, clearer instructions
for use of technologies and an adjustment
in the store’s physical layout to allow for a
greater number of less mobile customers.
SHOPPING ON SOCIAL MEDIA
Social media is moving beyond the social
zone to offer online shopping experiences.
Businesses that don’t take advantage of the
tools available to turn ‘scrollers’ into shoppers
will lose out to those that do.
Bricks-and-mortar is rapidly becoming bricksand-clicks
and it is imperative for retailers to
at least stay abreast of developments in this
area, which typically requires making sure
there is a social-media-savvy staff member
or a third-party expert who can help manage
DATA WILL BECOME MORE POWERFUL
The ability to segment customers, know their
spending history and use that to predict
trends will be crucial in the future. Retailers
are now capable of knowing when customers
need to buy and the ability to harness it on an
individual basis will expand.
Access to this data is largely via POS software;
however, there are other elements to
consider. Storeowners and managers need
to create a customer-centric culture, which
means there is a genuine commitment
to collect, maintain and utilise customer
information in a meaningful and professional
manner. Unless salespeople buy into ‘why’
this information is important, they will be
casual and inconsistent in the way they
gather and use it.
It is crucial that stores maintain accurate
contact and personal information for
customers entering the store each day.
Email, mobiles and social media preferences
are all important as is the increasing trend
of ‘wish lists’ whereby customers choose the
items they would like to receive and the store,
or the customer, shares that information with
the purchaser. How much easier and more
rewarding is it to buy something for that
CATCH CRY OF
TO KEEP UP WITH
THIS TREND TOO
special someone from a list of their own
hand-picked items rather than trying to
guess what they may like?
TECHNOLOGY WILL EXPAND
The amount of technology available to boost
shopping experiences will soar in the near
future but not all of it will be relevant.
Jewellers will need to develop an ability to
identify and harness those new technologies
that will provide a competitive advantage.
For example, bricks-and-mortar and online
jewellers alike are beginning to use 3D
technology, CAD design and prototype
ranges to provide customers with the ability
to try on their rings in advance.
These strategies are helping customers
experience the product before buying;
however, it doesn’t stop there. Having made
their selections, customers want the items
quickly and so turnaround time becomes
an increasingly important consideration.
Remember, these are the same customers
who want ‘instant gratification’ and waiting
more than a few days can be enough to put
them off a purchase.
Led by businesses such as Amazon, speedier
service is becoming the catch cry of the
online world and traditional retailers need to
keep up with this trend too.
Millennials are now expecting instant
responses and faster delivery times and
receiving it because they represent the future
of the customer landscape.
The rate of change can be daunting and
intimidating but change also has the ability
to present opportunity and the chance to
truly differentiate one store from another.
It’s critical that jewellery retailers keep
themselves in the know with the developing
trends in all aspects of retail and be willing to
adopt those that can give their business an
advantage over competitors. i
DAVID BROWN is
co-founder and business
mentor of Retail Edge
Consultants. Learn more:
42 Jeweller March 2017
SPARK RESULTS WITH REFERRAL TEAMS
RETAILERS WHO BELIEVE THAT GENERATING REFERRALS IS AS EASY AS TURNING UP TO NETWORKING EVENTS, DOING A GOOD
JOB WITH CUSTOMERS OR JOINING REFERRAL GROUPS ARE LEAVING MONEY ON THE TABLE. MICHAEL GRIFFITHS REPORTS.
There are many things that need to be done
to generate referrals but the biggest impact
and best results come when businesses
create their own referral teams.
it into new networks. Most people just hope
someone will see and share their content.
Instead, ensure that people do this by
making them content distributors.
A referral team is a group of people that
help to generate new business. They should
be seen as part of the sales team but they
are not paid as salespeople.
Referral teams might be a whole new
concept for small businesses; however,
in some ways, many owners are already
generating their own just without the
structure or process that this article is
about to outline.
A referral team can just be a group of people
who help create new opportunities for a
business – they are opening new doors,
giving businesses new exposure, filling the
sales funnels and promoting products and
services whenever they can.
Just imagine what having 66 people
promoting a business every day would do
for the bottom line? There are five different
groups of people within my organisation’s
referral team and they all play a role in
generating new business.
This is the A team, the people who have
similar networks to yourself and people you
really like and trust.
You can have up to six profitability partners –
any more and you will not have the time
to help them.
This is a one-on-one conversation between
you and your partner every week. The phone
call should not last more than 10 minutes
and you go through and strategise how you
can help one another.
Most people are lucky if they talk to their
referral partners every month, let alone
every week. With constant communication,
constant strategising and constantly being
front of mind, you will be amazed how much
business you can pass each other.
TEAM IS A
SEEN AS PART OF
THE SALES TEAM
ARE NOT PAID AS
BE PROACTIVE AND BUILD A REFERRAL TEAM
The super group is up to eight people
that come together once a month. With
technologies these days, you can do this
face-to-face or via webinar or some other
Your super group is about all eight people
sharing their networks, sharing their
customers and creating new opportunities
for one another. The super group needs to
include people that all sell to the same type
of person but sell something different.
Cross promotion is the quickest and simplest
way to expand a business. A cross promotion
is when you promote someone to your
network and they promote you to their
network. Cross promotions could be sharing
content, videos, webinars, live presentations,
PDFs and more.
To set up a cross promotion all you need to
do is ask someone that has a similar network
to you if they would like to cross-promote.
I believe if you have 12 cross-promotion
partners then you can do two per month
and that is a business changer.
There is no point putting up content on
social media unless other people are sharing
Every month, ask people if they would be
happy to share your content if you share
their content. Every month we have more
than 20 people sharing our podcasts,
webinars, articles, videos and that allows us
to build a following and reach thousands of
new people every month.
This is the only group of people that get
paid for creating a sale – every other type
of partner is helping me because I’m
committed to helping them but affiliates
are happy to sell a product or service for a
commission. Many people don’t use this type
of partnership correctly and they often fail.
The key is great communication and building
Referral teams don’t get built overnight; they
need the right sorts of people. You might
have to talk to several businesses before
getting the right team in place.
While I have a 66-person referral team, it
should be noted that this number could
vary depending on the size and nature of
the business in question.
The important point to remember is that
the team members need to have the same
mindset and values as well as the desire to
help one another.
Without these, the referral relationship is
going to fail before it has even started. i
is described as the #1
authority on referral
marketing training. Learn more:
March 2017 Jeweller 43
Australia's longest running
jewellery awards program,
with an emphasis on
handmade jewellery that
expresses one's individuality
SEVEN DAILY HABITS OF SUCCESSFUL LEADERS
THERE IS SUCH A THING AS A FORMULA FOR SUCCESS AND CHRIS HALLBERG SAYS IT BEGINS BY INCORPORATING CERTAIN
ACTIONS INTO ONE’S DAILY SCHEDULE THAT PROMOTE PROPER ROUTINES, STRONG NETWORKS AND GOOD HEALTH.
Success is not a matter of luck or a happy
accident that happens to some people but
not others. Those who study the daily habits
of successful business leaders will find that
this group has many qualities in common.
To cultivate success, consider incorporating
these habits of effective leaders.
START EVERY DAY WITH REFLECTION
There’s an old Buddhist saying: you should
meditate for one hour every day unless you
are too busy. If you are too busy, you should
meditate for two hours.
Successful people carve out the time to
reflect because they recognise the value
of slowing down. Contemplation and
reflection allows them to make strategies
instead of always reacting. It makes them
more clearheaded so that they can be more
effective throughout the day.
Retailers who make time for reflection every
day will find they are more centred and
able to determine what actions to take to
improve their businesses.
Successful leaders are always thinking
several moves ahead; they develop shortterm
and long-term strategies. Constantly
reacting to issues only as they come up will
lead to poor decision making.
Developing detailed strategies assists
retailers to predict potential hurdles and
craft multi-facet plans that will help reach
business goals. Business strategies that are
well considered, detailed and flexible have a
greater chance of success. Strategy requires
studying the industry and everything that
is related to business success. By learning as
much as possible and incorporating this into
plans, retailers can move deliberately in the
direction that will build continued success.
Learning isn’t something that ends once
school finishes. Successful business owners
are learning all the time. Technologies
MAKE TIME FOR
EVERY DAY WILL
FIND THEY ARE
AND ABLE TO
ACTIONS TO TAKE
TO IMPROVE THEIR
INCORPORATE HABITS OF EFFECTIVE LEADERS
change rapidly and an owner who stays
up-to-date on the latest information in their
niche and is always bettering themselves
and honing their skills can succeed. Seek
out mentors. Read industry resources. Take
a class if one is appropriate. By remaining
open to learning new things, retailers can
increase the size of their toolkits for success.
SAY THANK YOU
One of the things that employees say that
they want most in a workplace is to be
appreciated. Successful business leaders
know this and show gratitude accordingly.
This attitude sets the foundation for better
relationships and keeps employees in the
business. Gratitude leads to better managers
and employees who all want to contribute
to the success of the business.
People who are resistant to change and
innovation will be left behind. Those who
understand that progress is inevitable
and healthy will catch the tide and ride it
toward success. Be on the lookout for new
developments. Look for areas where new
technology and ideas are needed. By being
able to see where progress should go,
business owners can put their organisations
at the forefront of the next trend.
PERFORM REGULAR EXERCISE
Studies show that exercise improves
cognition; brings emotional stability and
makes it easier to deal with the hurdles
that life puts in the way. It also facilitates
focus and productivity and makes people
more energetic. Health experts recommend
a minimum of 30 minutes of exercise a
day, five days a week. Choose an activity
according to the benefits it provides – a
solitary activity, for instance, can be a
good time for reflection and regrouping;
group activities, such as tennis, can provide
Regular exercise helps build confidence
and someone who is physically fit projects
a level of confidence that others can see.
MAKE TIME FOR FAMILY
No matter how successful one becomes
or how time-intensive their work, family
needs to remain a priority. By taking the
time to keep strong connections with
family, business owners will ensure they
have relationships in place when they need
support. Those who aren’t working for the
good of a family might find success hollow
so it’s important to include people who
mean something into business successes.
Family connections can also help with
emotional stability in hard periods. Family
can provide encouragement during times
of challenge. Strong connections at home
can also help alleviate burnout.
There is no magic bullet that makes
someone a successful business leader.
Success is built by incorporating successful
actions and attitudes every day. By including
these habits, business owners can change
their outlook and improve their odds of
becoming a successful business leader. i
CHRIS HALLBERG is
president of TractionInc. His
aim is to help entrepreneurs
achieve their vision. Learn more:
March 2017 Jeweller 45
MARKETING & PR
NAVIGATING THE UNHAPPY CUSTOMER TERRAIN
A BAD REVIEW CAN HARM A BUSINESS’ REPUTATION AND DRIVE AWAY CUSTOMERS. STEPHANIE O’BRIEN OUTLINES
WAYS THAT BUSINESSES CAN MANAGE STRESSFUL SITUATIONS AND HELP AVOID DAMAGING FEEDBACK.
Few things are as stressful for a business owner or salesperson as
an angry customer and irate exchanges can make it challenging
to keep emotions calm and conversations constructive.
The ways in which these moments are handled are critical to a
business’ reputation, to the satisfaction of customers and to the
integrity of a business owner. Here are five strategies to help
salespeople navigate this challenging terrain.
DON’T GET ANGRY AND DEFENSIVE
When being accused of something and feeling like you’re under
attack, it’s natural to want to protect yourself and prove the accuser
wrong; however, if you want to reconcile with your displeased
customer and protect your business’ reputation then it’s important
not to treat your customer as the enemy or to prioritise your pride
over their needs. Stay calm and polite and remember that the goal
is to satisfy the customer, not to silence them.
TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR INVOLVEMENT
If there was a misunderstanding, tell them, “I can see how what I
said could have come across that way. That wasn’t what I meant
and I’m sorry for the mix-up.” Then explain your point of view.
This allows you to explain yourself without starting an argument over
what you did or did not say. If there was a mistake made regarding
product, service or scheduling information, tell them, “I’m sorry for
the mistake we made. It’s very important to me that you get what
you need from my business and I want to make it up to you.”
ASK QUESTIONS AND SEEK UNDERSTANDING
This may seem counterintuitive because when someone is saying
bad things about you, it’s natural not to want to hear more; however,
the first step toward reconciling with another person is to understand
the source of their upset and to demonstrate that their problem
matters. With this in mind, instead of trying to silence an angry
customer, ask them questions and do your best to get a complete
understanding of the problem. Also, ask if there are any other
problems they’ve been having with you or your product.
This shows that you’re truly committed to making sure they have a
good experience, and gives you a chance to expose and deal with
any hidden sources of resentment that might otherwise poison your
relationship and their opinion of your business. It also gives you the
chance to learn from your mistakes and fine-tune practices.
PAY ATTENTION TO WHAT CUSTOMERS SAY
One mistake that I’ve seen even large companies make repeatedly
is to show that they didn’t truly listen to customer questions and
concerns. Sending identical information repeatedly, giving customers
a link to the exact same help page on which they were requesting
THAT I’VE SEEN
TO SHOW THAT
EMBRACE THE FIVE STRATEGIES OF ACHIEVING HAPPY CUSTOMERS
clarification and sending links to forums that address the general
topic of their problem but don’t actually offer a workable solution
are examples of these mistakes.
When staff have a store filled with customers plus incoming phone
calls and emails that need attention, it can be tempting to cut corners
and skim over messages instead of paying careful attention to each
one. This approach creates the risk of telling customers the business
doesn’t care about them.
Failing to address concerns correctly can also increase the time a
business must spend on each customer well beyond what would’ve
been spent had the business taken the time to find the right solution
from the outset. In the wise words of US basketball player and coach
John Wooden, “If you don’t have time to do it right, when will you
have time to do it over?”
OFFER A CONCRETE SOLUTION
This might seem obvious but if there is a product defect, either fix
it or organise a replacement. If the customer wasn’t happy with the
service offered, discuss with them how the problem can be rectified.
Whatever the nature of the mistake or misunderstanding, businesses
should show they take problems seriously and are committed to
giving customers the best experiences and services possible by
proposing specific solutions.
As sure as the sun rises, there will be unhappy customers in retail.
How business owners and staff handle these customers will inevitably
decide whether businesses can turn pain into profit. i
STEPHANIE O’BRIEN is founder of Coach Client
Connection. She specialises in marketing and
copywriting. Learn more: coachclientconnection.com
46 Jeweller March 2017
KEEPING UP BUSINESS DEMAND WITH LIVE VIDEO
FACEBOOK LIVE IS ONE OF THE REMARKABLE, RECENT DEVELOPMENTS IN THE SOCIAL MEDIA-MARKETING WORLD.
LUX NARAYAN REPORTS ON HOW SMALL BUSINESSES CAN USE THE FEATURE TO INCREASE CUSTOMER ENGAGEMENT.
Released in 2016, Facebook Live allows
Facebook users to share live video with
their followers. One of the key benefits of
Facebook Live is its flexibility; it can be used
for a wide range of purposes, depending
on the business’ social media objective.
Here, we take a look at what businesses
have achieved using live videos and the
takeaways this exercise offers.
WHY GO LIVE?
Live videos are an excellent way to grab an
audience’s attention in real-time. They can
be particularly useful to highlight a major
event such as product launches, contests,
buying trips and in-store events.
While a sizeable chunk of live videos
are put out by industries that have prior
experience with the live format – think
media, entertainment and sports sectors
– this is not to say that small businesses
should not try their hand at it.
Here are a few reasons to go live.
INTRODUCE A PRODUCT OR SERVICE
Airtime can be quite expensive for a small
enterprise to acquire and an advertisement
might not provide the opportunity to
showcase the unique features of a product.
Live videos enable businesses to show
products in use and in real-time – a valuable
asset when promoting the intricate details
of an item like jewellery. Videos also remove
any doubts customers may have about
the truth-value of what is shown in an
advertisement. Demonstrations of a jeweller
on the bench and tutorials on pearl care are
excellent ways to exhibit expertise.
E-commerce brand Zulily is an example of
how to make great use of the live video
format. Targeting the ‘back to school’ period,
Zulily conducted tutorials and demos on
how its hair products could be essential for
school-going children. Viewers were also
given a gentle push to shop the product
with a special offer and the social media
manager painstakingly replied to every
comment, which conveys that the business
cares about its audience and their feedback.
PROJECT THE BRAND PERSONALITY
Large brands often use live videos to
highlight the brand’s human side, granting
audiences a peek at the people responsible
for making the brand what it is. A fun
way to do this can be to tap into current
internet sensations. Dairy Queen Mexico,
for example, capitalised on the Mannequin
Challenge with a video that showed
customers ordering and eating ice cream in
freeze-frame, mannequin mode. Jewellers
can also use video to show audiences that
they participate in sector-relevant, highprofile
events such as trade fairs.
MOTIVATE AUDIENCE INTERACTION
Listening tools and market research are
essential to finding out what potential
customers like and dislike. For small
businesses, live video can be an effective
way to understand what people would like
in their products or services.
For instance, conducting a live video
demo of a product gives the audience the
opportunity to ask questions regarding
the features of the product. Encouraging
audiences to like, comment and share are
also beneficial as this interaction not only
helps live videos gain a better reach but
to fuel further interaction on other posts.
BUILD EXCITEMENT AROUND AN EVENT
Product launches, sales, contests and
giveaways are all super exciting but if
no one gets to know about the events,
all those fabulous plans will fall through.
Facebook Live is an easy and effective way
to get audiences interested in an in-store
event. Videos that show retailers preparing
for an event or providing exclusive
backstage coverage to customers will boost
enthusiasm. Mercedes-Benz did a great job
of this: tinyurl.com/mercvideo
LIVE VIDEOS OFFER SMALL BUSINESSES AN EFFECTIVE WAY TO ENGAGE
IN USE AND
– A VALUABLE
Don’t forget that events can take place
exclusively within a live video too. As
discussed earlier, offering a few freebies
via a contest can encourage social media
audiences to take part in the event.
Something else to consider is Instagram
Live Stories, which was launched in
December 2016 in the US and recently
became available globally.
In summary, here are some tips for ensuring
businesses get the most out of live videos:
• Use Facebook Analytics to see peak views
and other metrics – what time of day are
customers most active on the page?
• With this data, decide on the optimum
duration and approach
• Rope in ‘influencers’ – examples include
local celebrities and brand ambassadors
• Announce the live video in advance with
some sneak-peek posts
• Promote the live video post-streaming to
extend the reach and viewership
• Encourage audiences to comment –
audience interaction and feedback are
worth well over a few freebies. i
LUX NARAYAN is the CEO
and co-founder of Unmetric,
a social media intelligence
and analytics company.
Learn more: unmetric.com
March 2017 Jeweller 47
Baguette Diamond Setting
YEARS IN TRADE: A long
time! More than 30 years
FIRST JOB: The Grand
Bazaar in Istanbul
Old-cut diamond because
I like its unevenness and
more natural appearance.
18-carat gold because it
is simple to work with and
it has a very nice finish.
That’s easy. My bench is
my favourite tool!
Love jewellery because:
It’s my family’s profession –
my brothers, cousins are all
jewellers. It’s important for
me to continue that legacy.
Worst part of job:
Always having to look for
new systems and tools and
learning how to use them.
Best tip to a jeweller:
I know I said this is the
worst part of the job but
in the same breath, it really
is important to always be
searching for new systems
and tools. You don’t want
to be left behind.
Is your work primarily
custom-makes or repairs?
I do both custom-make and
Do you buy tooling locally,
overseas or a mix of both?
Usually local but of course
sometimes overseas as well.
My bench is always:
A bit messy because I have
so many jobs going.
I love AFL and follow
Hawthorn Football Club.
Fingers crossed they will
win this year.
IT’S A WORLD OF METAL MADNESS
At 47, I don’t class myself as old. Certainly
I’m old to my 12 and 13-year old boys
because I’m not up-to-date with current
YouTube celebrity videos or memes.
Theirs is a different world but I am happy
in the world of jewellery manufacture
and still feeling pretty current.
What does make me question my age is my
jewellery language. In the old days I could
order “18-carat stock gauge and it wouldn’t
crack and split upon the first roll”.
Once upon a time, I wouldn’t find “gas
bubbles in a new 18-carat white gold bar”
and when I was a younger jeweller, I never
saw “new platinum come with massive
folds that needed peeling apart before
I could start”.
Today I struggle to find consistency in
materials that were predictable up until
15 years ago. Am I simply too fussy for my
own good or is there something wrong
with the materials we are now being
supplied? My guess is the latter.
A good job needs good materials;
foundations of anything are important.
I have watched the CAD world take off in a
big way but will shout for a few years longer
that current-blended cast material is too
brittle for lasting quality.
I choose to proceed in a classical way and
work with stock gauge so I can guarantee
the durability and quality of my work.
When calculations are done to quote a job,
it is with very fine tolerances of waste. Let’s
be realistic – precious metals are expensive,
right?! My experience has taught me that
I do not need 50 grams of stock gauge to
produce a simple four-gram ring and I am
proud of this skill.
Clean, newly-refined material has always
been a joy to work with; it’s contaminated
metals that are a pain. The deal now is that
newly-purchased stock metal does not
react in a joyous predictable way but more
like the contaminated mystery blends that
come from customers presenting old rings
to be melted down. In order to work with
contaminated, rogue-behaving materials,
a greater quantity is needed to allow for
all the inherent cracking and failure.
The second issue with the currently-available
spate of designed metals is that trimmings
and lemel are not capable of taking to
re-melting like a decade ago. The new
generation of gold refiners are kept mighty
busy processing third-rate product that
artificially generates work from products
via inbuilt design failure.
All too often, material that would once
respond to my gentle, skilled caress is now
demanding a warrior to whip the beast into
submission. I have become a proverbial
animal trainer and it’s not good enough to
be told, “Stop complaining. You will get your
money back on the material you have left
over when you refine.”
There are not 100 gold stock suppliers out
there so the industry seems a little sewn up
from my point of view. After the financial
crisis of recent times, strong and sturdy
metal-supply businesses have been forced
into amalgamating, selling up and/or cutting
corners. Suppliers are fast becoming run
THE DEAL NOW
IS THAT STOCK
METAL DOES NOT
REACT IN A JOYOUS
BUT MORE LIKE THE
THAT COME FROM
OLD RINGS TO BE
by accountants trying to make a dollar on
the stock market, not metallurgical experts
selling a true product for steady income.
My complaints to suppliers seem to fall
on deaf ears – I recently expressed my
grievances to one salesperson and they
replied, “Oh, it has always been that way
and we rarely ever get complaints.”
I was then handed a complaint form
from a nearby drawer piled high with
completed, neatly-aligned complaint forms
that I imagine to be a never-ending line of
jewellers venting dissatisfaction.
What indeed can be done? Well, it would be
magic to again find a sympathetic, respectful,
trade-minded metal refiner with skilled and
detailed product knowledge and a view for
creating lasting relationships. I am ready and
waiting for you, whoever you are.
To the rest of you metal suppliers, you are
not doing yourselves any favours by doing
what you do – it opens up the market to
someone who can fill the space you have
As I sit here gazing into my beer after a long,
busy day, perhaps that mystery person with
the passion for quality and longevity of their
trade is indeed closer to home than at first
glance. In fact, it might be someone reading
this right now... or it might just be me. i
Name: James Tyler
Business: James Tyler Jewellery
Location: Brisbane, QLD
Years in the industry: 30
50 Jeweller March 2017
THE INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR
WORLD CLASS, ESTABLISHED
AND KNOWN AS
THE INDUSTRY’S PROVEN
FOR OVER 25 YEARS.
THE IJF IS A
COLLECTION OF THE
A REVOLUTIONARY NOT
EVOLUTIONARY FAIR THAT IS
GOING TO A WHOLE NEW
LEVEL IN 2017.
WITH MORE THAN 100
EXHIBITORS ALREADY CONFIRMED
THE INDUSTRY EVENT
WHERE YOU COME FIRST.
AUGUST 26 > 28, 2017
THE INTERNATIONAL CONVENTION CENTRE SYDNEY