Slipstream - August 2017

Detailing Tips: Traditional Wax vs Synthetic Polymers
By Tony “Concorso”
Image courtesy of the Author
ast time we covered the basics of prep work
L
with the Surface Prep Mitt vs Clay Bar comparison,
so this month we’ll take a look at
the merit of the various finish layer products
available, such as waxes and sealants. Almost all
of these products are readily available at the auto parts
and discount stores, as well as online. There are far too
many products to list individually, so we’ll refer to each
general category in this comparison: traditional wax or
the newer synthetic polymer/sealant formulations.
A little product history is in order here. Waxes have
a long history of use in protecting automotive (and
other) finishes, while synthetic polymer/sealers came
along as a result of continued desire for improvement
in application and removal of products (Ed. Note: IBM
received the initial patent for a “synthetic wax substitute”
on April 14, 1964). In addition, we always want
our finishes to be deeper or wetter looking along with
protection lasting as long as possible. Waxes of all types
can offer up an absolutely beautiful finish, but contrary
to our common thinking, waxes are actually very soft
layers of protection.
Traditional wax has gorgeous clarity and depth, but
scratches every time you wipe off your vehicle with
microfiber towels and your favorite instant detailer.
Almost all waxes have some level of carnauba content,
from a fraction of one percent to 20% or higher, and
can range in price from $6.00 a can up to several thousand
dollars per can. The percentage of carnauba content
noted on the container refers to the purity of the
carnauba used, not the percentage of volume of the
can. Important determining factors in the longevity of
the product include the amount of proper prep taken
and the care the car gets between waxings, as well as
where it is kept. In the end, most carnauba-based products
last about 60 - 90 days.
So, along come the synthetic polymer-based products
to add to the comparisons. Polymer products are a
man-made attempt to improve upon nature, with some
success I might add. These products bring multiple
advancements in molecular structure over waxes to
boost the performance qualities. The end result is a
harder-than-wax protective layer that can last up to six
months, although “harder-than-wax” is a relative term.
Polymer/sealers are still very soft and will also scratch
when washed and wiped.
Another big improvement over wax is the ease of application
and removal. We’ve all suffered through the
frustration of wax buffing and polishing. Most of the
synthetic products wipe off easily.
No matter which product you choose, the key to a
great result is the prep work prior to application. Always
make sure the surface is residue-free and squeaky clean
before applying any products. During the application
process, work in 2 x 2 foot sections and the end result
will be a more uniform shine and consistent removal.
A pro note here: do your best to get the car dry in
all the cracks, crevices, mirrors, emblems, etc. A forced
air dryer such as the Metrovac Master Blaster is a great
help here. Just a few drops of water added to many of
these products during application can make them exponentially
harder to remove. Trust me.
After the car is completely covered in product we
find another advantage to the synthetic products. Most
of the polymer products can be removed as soon as applied
if desired, and as mentioned, wipe off easily. The
waxes can take 20 minutes or more to dry out enough
to remove. Humidity makes the biggest difference in
cure time.
Make sure you have a fresh, clean supply of microfiber
towels on hand to remove either type of product
and hand buff the car. New or very clean microfiber
towels are essential. Work your way from the top down,
turning your microfiber towel frequently. When your
towel starts to leave little dust residue, change to a
clean microfiber and carry on. You can easily use 10
microfiber towels or more in a single wax session. Keep
a little instant detailing spray handy, as it can help in
the removal of some of the more stubborn wax spots.
Again, the synthetic polymer products distinguish
themselves at this stage with ease of removal.
Here’s a sidebar about product removal. Be patient!
Work over the car slowly and review your work from
many angles. Step back from the car 10 to 20 feet and
survey your work. Go through the entire process repeatedly.
The more time you spend walking around the
car and spotting areas that need additional buffing, the
better the results will be. If you have a little time the
next day, repeat the walk around and you’ll probably
still find some stray wax or residue. Many times, products
continue to cure overnight and may also pick up
a little moisture and by doing so, expose small areas
easily overlooked.
As for maintenance, treat both types of products
similarly. Hand wash every couple of weeks and remove
dust with an instant detailer product regularly.
In the next detailing article, I’ll address
what it takes to properly prepare the
paint surface for any finish product, plus
discuss ceramic coatings. Until then . . .
“Polish On!”.
25