19.09.2017 Views

CookFresh

  • No tags were found...

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.

Host an Easy (and Delicious) Cookout<br />

<strong>CookFresh</strong><br />

THE BEST OF FINE COOKING<br />

30+ SENSATIONAL SIDE DISHES<br />

Flavor-Packed Summer Recipes<br />

30-MINUTE<br />

Farmstand<br />

Dinners<br />

CREATE YOUR OWN<br />

Healthy<br />

Grain<br />

Salads<br />

Light,<br />

seasonal<br />

SOUPS &<br />

SALADS<br />

Just-Picked<br />

Berry<br />

Desserts<br />

COOKFRESH SUMMER 2017<br />

www.finecooking.com<br />

Chicken<br />

Horiataki Salad<br />

with Tzatziki, p. 18


JOIN OUR<br />

EXPLORE OUR RECIPES<br />

on<br />

COLAVITARECIPES.COM<br />

facebook.com/ColavitaOliveOil<br />

ColavitaOil<br />

youtube.com/ColavitaOliveOil<br />

@ColavitaOil<br />

ColavitaOliveOil<br />

Colavita Olive Oil


THE BEGINNING OF EXTRAORDINARY<br />

Dijon mustard with Horseradish.<br />

Meals, Maille, Memories.<br />

maille.com


contents<br />

Cookfresh summer 2017, No. 121<br />

features<br />

24 peaches, savory &<br />

sweet<br />

Two marinades take this summer<br />

favorite fruit to new places.<br />

32 turn up the heat<br />

Serve suppers with a kick when<br />

you cook with flavor-packed,<br />

spicy ingredients.<br />

40 farm to spoon<br />

In Italy, they eat soup in summer<br />

(and so should you).<br />

44 tropical bites & sips<br />

Take backyard barbecue recipes to<br />

the bright and flavorful tropics.<br />

54 the new summer side<br />

Make-ahead and endlessly versatile,<br />

grain salad just might be the perfect<br />

potluck dish.<br />

60 a simple<br />

summertime supper<br />

Juicy grilled steak, fresh summer<br />

salads, and a homey berry buttermilk<br />

cake star in this easy outdoor menu.<br />

68 cook with honey<br />

Honey lends a distinctive<br />

sweetness to suppers, snacks,<br />

desserts, and more.<br />

76 berry sweets<br />

Make the most of fresh, ripe berries<br />

in tempting seasonal desserts.<br />

Sweet Marinated Peach<br />

Tart with Honey-Yogurt<br />

Mousse, p. 31<br />

www.finecooking.com


22<br />

85<br />

88<br />

90<br />

93<br />

84<br />

DEPARTMENTS<br />

8 Welcome<br />

10 On the Web<br />

15 Make It Tonight<br />

Fast and fresh meals, any night<br />

of the week.<br />

22 3 Ways with Scallions<br />

Versatile and affordable, these green onions<br />

add fresh flavor to recipes of all kinds.<br />

84 Test Kitchen<br />

Tips, techniques, ingredients.<br />

92 Credits<br />

93 Sources<br />

94 Nutrition<br />

96 Recipe Index<br />

98 What We’re Cooking Now<br />

Twelve ways to use four seasonal<br />

ingredients we can’t get enough of.<br />

Pp<br />

Cover photography by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day.<br />

www.finecooking.com<br />

6 COOKFRESH SUMMER 2017


IS YOUR PLATE<br />

AS CLEAN AS YOUR FOOD?<br />

IF YOU CARE Automatic Dishwasher Tablets.<br />

NEW If If You Care Brandmark<br />

Concentrated Cleaning<br />

with No Toxic Residue.<br />

No Chlorine. No Phosphates.<br />

No Petrochemicals. Biodegradable.<br />

Potent Plant and Mineral Formula.<br />

Minimal Impact on Aquatic Life.<br />

Primary Logo<br />

Color // Grayscale<br />

ifyoucare.com<br />

Secondary Logos<br />

Color // Grayscale<br />

finecooking.com 7


welcome<br />

<strong>CookFresh</strong><br />

the best of fine cooking<br />

Issue Editor<br />

Issue Art Director<br />

Issue Copy Editor<br />

Sarah Opdahl<br />

Brittany Carlson<br />

Diane Sinitsky<br />

Sun-Ripened<br />

Tomato and Olive<br />

Salad, p. 64<br />

Summer’s Gifts<br />

welcome summer! We’re ready for all that the season has to offer: juicy peaches;<br />

ripe, flavorful tomatoes; bright berries; and more. Whether you’re happily hauling<br />

home bags full of goodies from the farmers’ market or you’re knee-deep in zucchini<br />

from the garden, you’ve got the right magazine in hand. This special issue of Fine<br />

Cooking was developed to turn all of that lovely produce into fantastic dishes.<br />

Here, you’ll find it all: easy dinners (Moroccan Chicken Burgers with Feta<br />

and Carrot Slaw, p. 39); grilled favorites (Herb-Marinated Skirt Steaks, p. 62);<br />

backyard barbecue knockouts (Grilled Pork with Mojo, p. 44); standout desserts<br />

(Strawberry and Kiwi Tart with Honey Cream, p. 80); and everything in between.<br />

To make healthier eating even easier, we’ve provided icons to help you identify<br />

which recipes fit your eating and cooking style, from quick to vegetarian to<br />

make-ahead (see below). Now you have all the tools you’ll need to turn that warmweather<br />

produce into delicious dishes all season long.<br />

—The Fine Cooking Editors<br />

A guide to making healthy choices<br />

These icons are located throughout this issue of <strong>CookFresh</strong> to help you<br />

choose recipes that match your needs.<br />

Editorial Director<br />

Art Director<br />

Senior Editors<br />

Food Editor<br />

Senior Copy/<br />

Production Editor<br />

Staff Photographer<br />

Senior Food<br />

Editor/Stylist<br />

Food Editor/<br />

Test Kitchen Manager<br />

Art/Production<br />

Coordinator<br />

Test Kitchen Assistant<br />

Test Kitchen Intern<br />

Editors at Large<br />

Contributing Editors<br />

Senior Managing Editor,<br />

Books<br />

Kathy Kingsley<br />

Teresa Fernandes<br />

Joanne Smart<br />

Lisa Lahey<br />

Chris Hoelck<br />

Scott Phillips<br />

Ronne Day<br />

Diana Andrews<br />

Tinsley Morrison<br />

Joan Velush<br />

William Stewart<br />

Jennifer Armentrout<br />

Susie Middleton<br />

Abigail Johnson Dodge<br />

Rebecca Freedman<br />

Tony Rosenfeld<br />

Molly Stevens<br />

Jill Silverman Hough<br />

(drinks)<br />

Joanne Weir<br />

Carolyn Mandarano<br />

FineCooking.com<br />

Senior Web Producer Sarah Breckenridge<br />

Video Director Colin Russell<br />

The Best of Fine Cooking: (ISSN: 1931-8227)<br />

is published by The Taunton Press, Inc.,<br />

Newtown, CT 06470-5506. Telephone<br />

203-426-8171. Canadian GST paid registration<br />

#123210981.<br />

Printed in the USA<br />

Quick: Under 30 minutes.<br />

Healthy: Calories are 550 or<br />

fewer; saturated fat is 5 grams<br />

or fewer; cholesterol is 300 mg<br />

or fewer.<br />

Vegetarian: May contain<br />

eggs and dairy ingredients.<br />

wheat-free: Contains no<br />

wheat or wheat products.<br />

Please note, icon does not<br />

indicate gluten-free.<br />

Make ahead: Can be<br />

completely prepared ahead<br />

(may need reheating and a<br />

garnish to serve).<br />

8 cookfresh summer 2017


The Original Scoop #1520, size 20<br />

Scooping Perfection ...<br />

Publisher John Boland<br />

203-304-3769<br />

jboland@finecooking.com<br />

Director Alina Light<br />

Business Development, 203-304-3501<br />

Partnership Marketing alight@finecooking.com<br />

Liquid filled, heat conductive handle<br />

for smooth scooping and easy release.<br />

The choice of ice cream parlors<br />

and ice cream lovers since 1935!<br />

Midwest Susan Welter<br />

Account Director 203-304-3894<br />

swelter@finecooking.com<br />

Northeast Erin Rijo<br />

Account Director 203-304-3529<br />

erijo@finecooking.com<br />

West Coast Oak Media Group<br />

Advertising Sales 323-493-2754<br />

Cynthia Lapporte<br />

Cynthia@oakmedia<br />

group.com<br />

Advertising Sales Assistant<br />

Diana Edwards<br />

Senior Advertising<br />

Marketing Manager<br />

Marketing Manager<br />

Marketing Manager<br />

Member Audit<br />

Bureau of Circulation<br />

Robina Lewis<br />

Bethany Sax<br />

Alison Cole<br />

With America’s Favorite Scoop!<br />

Zeroll.com (800) USA-5000<br />

Made in USA<br />

Single Copy Sales<br />

Independent publishers since 1975<br />

Founders, Paul & Jan Roman<br />

President & CEO Dan McCarthy<br />

CFO Mark Fernberg<br />

CTO Brian Magnotta<br />

GET READY FOR SUMMER<br />

WITH OUR PIRANHA TOMATO SET!<br />

SVP, Consumer Marketing<br />

VP, Controller<br />

VP, Human Resources<br />

VP, Fulfillment<br />

SVP, Home &<br />

Construction<br />

SVP, Fine Cooking<br />

Paula Backer<br />

Robert Caldaroni<br />

Carol Marotti<br />

Patricia Williamson<br />

Renee Jordan<br />

John Boland<br />

Publishers of magazines, books, videos, and online<br />

Fine Woodworking • Fine Homebuilding<br />

Threads • Fine Gardening • Fine Cooking<br />

taunton.com<br />

Get 15% off your first order at www.kuhnrikon.com. Use Code FINESUMMER.<br />

WWW.KUHNRIKON.COM<br />

FINECOOKING.COM 9


FINE COOKING DIGITAL<br />

On the Web<br />

Make FineCooking.com your destination for seasonal summer recipes,<br />

how-tos, videos, and more.<br />

Summer<br />

GAZPACHO Recipes<br />

The soups on pp. 40–43 are bursting with summer’s<br />

best produce, but don’t forget about the<br />

original summer soup: gazpacho. Our collection<br />

includes the ultimate classic recipe, along with<br />

regional variations (white cucumber-and-almond<br />

gazpacho) and creative riffs, like a spicy-sweet<br />

watermelon gazpacho and hors d’oeuvre-size<br />

shooters. Find the recipes at FineCooking.com/<br />

gazpacho.<br />

8 Summer<br />

Sauces for<br />

Quick, Easy<br />

Meals<br />

The best summer cooking<br />

is really about NOT<br />

cooking. Days are long and<br />

spent outdoors, so when<br />

dinnertime rolls around,<br />

these simple sauces and<br />

dressings are your secret<br />

weapons. Cook big batches<br />

of grains and veggies ahead<br />

of time, grill some meat, and<br />

mix and match them with<br />

this arsenal of homemade<br />

condiments. Get the recipe<br />

collection at FineCooking<br />

.com/summer-sauces.<br />

Digital Editions<br />

Fine Cooking’s tablet editions—<br />

available for iPad, Windows, and<br />

Android devices—are the same<br />

gorgeous issues you love but full<br />

of interactive extras like videos<br />

and search. Download the app at<br />

FineCooking.comapp. Access is<br />

free with your print subscription.<br />

Connect with Fine Cooking!<br />

Follow us on:<br />

Facebook “f” Logo CMYK / .eps Facebook “f” Logo CMYK / .eps<br />

10 COOKFRESH SUMMER 2017


WaffleCone Express 838<br />

To contact us:<br />

Fine Cooking<br />

The Taunton Press<br />

63 South Main Street<br />

PO Box 5506<br />

Newtown, CT 06470-5506<br />

Send an email to:<br />

fc@taunton.com<br />

Visit:<br />

finecooking.com<br />

To submit an article proposal:<br />

Write to Fine Cooking at the address above or<br />

Call: 800-309-0744<br />

Fax: 203-426-3434<br />

Email: fc@taunton.com<br />

To subscribe or place an order:<br />

Visit finecooking.com/fcorder<br />

or call: 866-288-4208<br />

9am-9pm et Mon-Fri<br />

9am-7pm et Sat<br />

To find out about Fine Cooking products:<br />

Visit finecooking.com/products<br />

To get help with online member services:<br />

Visit finecooking.com/customerservice<br />

To find answers to frequently asked questions:<br />

Visit finecooking.com/FAQs<br />

To contact Fine Cooking customer service:<br />

Email us at support@customerservice.taunton.com<br />

To speak directly to a customer service<br />

professional:<br />

Call 866-288-4208 9am-9pm et Mon-Fri; 9am-<br />

7pm ET Sat<br />

To sell Fine Cooking in your store:<br />

Call us toll-free at 866-452-5179, or<br />

email us at tradecs@taunton.com<br />

Enjoy ...<br />

Delicious, freshly baked<br />

sugar cones ready to serve<br />

in just 2 minutes!<br />

Easy, tasty and fun for the whole family<br />

(800) 342-3255 chefschoice.com © 2017 EdgeCraft Corporation, Avondale. PA 19311<br />

22 Years<br />

of recipes, tips, techniques & advice<br />

to make you a better cook<br />

To advertise in Fine Cooking:<br />

Call 800-309-8940, or<br />

email us at fcads@taunton.com<br />

Mailing list:<br />

We make a portion of our mailing list available<br />

to reputable firms. If you would prefer that<br />

we not include your name, please visit:<br />

finecooking.com/privacy<br />

or call: 866-288-4208 9am-5pm et Mon-Fri<br />

For employment information:<br />

Visit careers.taunton.com<br />

The Taunton guarantee:<br />

If at any time you’re not completely satisfied with<br />

Fine Cooking, you can cancel your subscription and<br />

receive a full and immediate refund of the entire<br />

subscription price. No questions asked.<br />

Copyright 2017 by The Taunton Press, Inc. No<br />

reproduction without permission of The Taunton<br />

Press, Inc.<br />

The 2016 Fine Cooking Magazine<br />

Archive is now available on DVD or USB.<br />

Get 144 fully searchable issues of<br />

Fine Cooking magazine in one place.<br />

Get yours now at www.tauntonstore.com<br />

© 2017 The Taunton Press<br />

finecooking.com 11


ADVERTISEMENT<br />

EASY ENTERTAINING<br />

Summer’s no-fuss vibe<br />

is ideal for hosting<br />

casual get-togethers<br />

with friends and family—<br />

even if your schedule is<br />

packed and time’s at a<br />

premium. The key is to<br />

keep it simple. Opt for<br />

easy, yet delicious food<br />

and some great wine,<br />

and you can sit back<br />

and relax knowing your<br />

party is destined for<br />

success. The fresh caprese<br />

salad featured here<br />

is quick to prepare and<br />

guaranteed to please.<br />

And it pairs beautifully<br />

with the balanced, crisp<br />

acidity of Edna Valley’s<br />

Sauvignon Blanc. Here’s<br />

to easy entertaining all<br />

season long!<br />

WITH<br />

FIG CAPRESE SALAD<br />

Naturally sweet and syrupy, figs<br />

find an excellent match in rich<br />

cheese. Serves 4 to 6<br />

5 ripe heirloom tomatoes,<br />

variety of sizes, sliced<br />

6 medium fresh figs, halved or<br />

quartered<br />

1 lb. fresh mozzarella, sliced<br />

2 Tbs. fresh basil leaves<br />

1 to 2 Tbs. balsamic glaze<br />

Overlap the tomatoes, figs, mozzarella,<br />

and basil leaves on a serving plate.<br />

Drizzle with the balsamic glaze,<br />

and serve.<br />

SAUVIGNON BLANC<br />

Grown in the warm and sunny Californian Central Coast, Edna<br />

Valley Vineyard is renowned for coaxing layered and complex<br />

flavors from their fruit. Edna Valley Vineyard’s Sauvignon Blanc<br />

offers elegant aromas of honeydew melon and grapefruit. On<br />

the palate, these citrus notes are echoed and complemented by<br />

tropical fruit flavors of guava, passion fruit, and a hint of lime zest.<br />

Balanced, crisp acidity with flavors that linger on the finish, this<br />

Sauvignon Blanc is a true expression of the varietal and the vintage.<br />

12 COOKFRESH SUMMER 2017<br />

Gallo-Edna Valley_v9BC.indd 12<br />

5/16/17 1:01 PM


Hikari<br />

Chef's 8"<br />

Currently available at<br />

Award-winning style<br />

Named Kitchen Knife of the Year in 2016, Shun Hikari offers exceptional<br />

beauty and ultimate performance. Seventy-one micro layers of high-carbon,<br />

high-chromium stainless steel Damascus comprise the blade and create<br />

the unique “hornet’s nest” blade pattern. Handcrafted in Japan by skilled<br />

artisans, each Hikari takes more than 150 individual steps to complete.<br />

shuncutlery.com<br />

@shuncutlery


make it tonight<br />

Fast and fresh meals, any night of the week.<br />

Summer Salad with<br />

Peas, Parmesan, Fried<br />

Egg, and Bacon, p. 16<br />

finecooking.com 15


summer salad with<br />

peas, parmesan,<br />

fried egg, and bacon<br />

Bacon and eggs turn a green salad<br />

into a substantial, comforting, and<br />

tasty meal, while peas and tarragon<br />

contribute bright, fresh seasonal<br />

flavors. (See the photo on p. 15.)<br />

Serves 4<br />

4 oz. thick-cut bacon (4 slices), cut<br />

crosswise 1/4 inch thick<br />

3/4 oz. finely grated Grana Padano<br />

or Parmigiano-Reggiano<br />

(about 1/3 cup); more for shaving<br />

2 Tbs. red-wine vinegar<br />

Kosher salt and freshly ground<br />

black pepper<br />

6 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil<br />

2 Tbs. vegetable oil; more as needed<br />

4 large eggs<br />

8 oz. mixed baby greens or similar<br />

2 Tbs. whole fresh tarragon leaves,<br />

plus 1 Tbs. finely chopped for garnish<br />

2/3 cup frozen peas, thawed<br />

2 medium radishes, thinly sliced<br />

2 Tbs. thinly sliced fresh chives<br />

Cook the bacon in a 12-inch nonstick skillet<br />

over medium heat, stirring occasionally,<br />

until crisp, 4 to 5 minutes. Use a slotted<br />

spoon to transfer the bacon to a paper<br />

towel–lined plate, leaving any fat behind in<br />

the skillet.<br />

Meanwhile, combine the grated cheese,<br />

vinegar, and 1/4 tsp. each salt and pepper<br />

in a medium bowl. Gradually whisk in the<br />

olive oil.<br />

Put the skillet over medium-low heat<br />

and add the vegetable oil. When the oil<br />

is hot, crack the eggs into the skillet and<br />

cook, basting the whites occasionally with<br />

the fat, until the whites are set but the<br />

yolks are still runny, 2 to 3 minutes.<br />

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, toss the<br />

greens, tarragon leaves, peas, and<br />

radishes. Lightly dress the salad with some<br />

of the vinaigrette, season with a generous<br />

pinch each salt and pepper, and toss.<br />

Divide the salad among 4 serving plates.<br />

Top each salad with an egg. Drizzle<br />

1/2 Tbs. vinaigrette over each egg, and<br />

season with salt and pepper. Top with<br />

the bacon, shaved cheese, chives, and<br />

chopped tarragon. Serve the remaining<br />

vinaigrette on the side.<br />

zucchini, pea, and pesto lasagne<br />

This free-form, no-bake lasagne features fresh flavors and is much quicker to<br />

make than traditional vegetable lasagne. Serves 4<br />

Kosher salt<br />

6 dried lasagne noodles<br />

2 Tbs. unsalted butter<br />

3 Tbs. pine nuts<br />

1 large zucchini, halved lengthwise<br />

and thinly sliced crosswise<br />

11/4 cups fresh or thawed<br />

frozen peas<br />

1/3 cup thinly sliced shallot<br />

1/3 oz. Grana Padano or Parmigiano-<br />

Reggiano, finely grated (1/3 cup);<br />

more coarsely grated for serving<br />

9 oz. ricotta cheese (about 1 cup)<br />

Freshly ground black pepper<br />

1/2 cup store-bought or homemade<br />

basil pesto<br />

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a<br />

boil. Boil the noodles according to package<br />

directions until al dente. Drain and<br />

rinse under cool water. Cut each noodle in<br />

half crosswise and set aside.<br />

Meanwhile, melt the butter in a 10-inch<br />

skillet over low heat. Add the pine nuts<br />

and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly<br />

browned, about 1 minute. With a slotted<br />

spoon, transfer the nuts to a small bowl.<br />

Increase the heat to medium, add the<br />

zucchini, peas, and shallot, and cook,<br />

stirring occasionally, until tender, about<br />

3 minutes. Add the finely grated cheese<br />

and toss gently to coat.<br />

Season the ricotta with 1/4 tsp. each<br />

salt and pepper. Place one noodle half on<br />

each of 4 plates, and spread a dollop of<br />

ricotta over each one. Divide about half of<br />

the vegetable mixture among the noodles,<br />

spreading it evenly over the cheese. Top<br />

with another noodle and repeat. Top with<br />

a third noodle, the pesto, pine nuts, and<br />

the coarsely grated cheese, and serve.<br />

16 cookfresh Summer 2017


COVER RECIPE<br />

chicken horiataki salad with tzatziki<br />

Horiataki is essentially what we outside of Greece call Greek salad but without the lettuce. The addition<br />

of garlicky grilled chicken transforms the salad into a satisfying summer meal. Tzatziki, a cool yogurt and<br />

cucumber sauce often served with gyros, is a refreshing alternative to feta. Serves 4<br />

FOR THE CHICKEN<br />

4 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves<br />

1 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest<br />

2 large cloves garlic, minced<br />

1 Tbs. chopped fresh oregano or 2 tsp.<br />

dried oregano<br />

Kosher salt and freshly ground<br />

black pepper<br />

Olive oil, for grilling<br />

1 lemon, cut into 6 wedges<br />

2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley<br />

FOR THE SALAD<br />

2 pints cherry tomatoes, halved<br />

1 English cucumber, peeled, sliced in half<br />

lengthwise, seeded, and sliced crosswise<br />

½ small red onion, very thinly sliced<br />

13 cup pitted black olives, such as<br />

Kalamatas, halved<br />

1½ Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil<br />

1 tsp. chopped fresh oregano or<br />

½ tsp. dried oregano<br />

Kosher salt and freshly ground<br />

black pepper<br />

1 cup homemade or good-quality<br />

store-bought tzatziki sauce<br />

4 pitas, toasted (optional)<br />

GRILL THE CHICKEN<br />

Prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) gas<br />

or charcoal grill fire. Meanwhile, remove the<br />

tenderloins from the chicken breasts, if necessary,<br />

and reserve for another use.<br />

Put a chicken breast half between two large<br />

pieces of plastic wrap, and pound it to an even<br />

¼-inch thickness with a meat mallet. Repeat<br />

with the other 3 breast halves.<br />

In a mortar, combine the lemon zest, garlic,<br />

oregano, 1 tsp. salt, ½ tsp. pepper, and ¼ tsp.<br />

water. Grind with a pestle to crush and combine.<br />

Rub the mixture all over the chicken.<br />

Drizzle olive oil on both sides of the<br />

chicken, patting it into the meat with your<br />

fingertips. Grill the chicken without moving<br />

it until grill marks form, about 4 minutes. Flip<br />

and grill until just cooked through (160°F),<br />

another 1 minute. Transfer to a plate, and<br />

squirt 2 lemon wedges over the chicken. Top<br />

with the parsley, and let rest.<br />

MAKE THE SALAD<br />

In a large bowl, combine the tomatoes,<br />

cucumber, onion, and olives. Toss with the<br />

olive oil and oregano, and season to taste with<br />

salt and pepper.<br />

Divide the salad among 4 plates. Slice the<br />

chicken and place on top of the salad. Dollop<br />

with some of the tzatziki sauce. Serve with<br />

the remaining lemon wedges and the pitas,<br />

if using.<br />

18 COOKFRESH SUMMER 2017


“<br />

The Everyday Baker is part culinary school,<br />

part trusted friend, and completely delicious.”<br />

–Zoë François, pastry chef and cookbook author<br />

the everyday<br />

BAKER<br />

Recipes & Techniques for Foolproof Baking<br />

Abigail Johnson Dodge<br />

> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ><br />

NEW!<br />

From Abigail Johnson Dodge comes<br />

The Everyday Baker, the must-have<br />

baking resource for every baker.<br />

With 624 pages, this comprehensive<br />

how-to book will make your kitchen<br />

the ultimate sweet and savory bakery!<br />

• Over 175 inspiring, foolproof recipes<br />

• Nearly 1,000 step-by-step and<br />

80 finished dish photos<br />

• Hundreds of must-know tips<br />

to help bakers enjoy sweet success!<br />

> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ><br />

© 2015 The Taunton Press<br />

> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ><br />

Early praise for Abigail Johnson Dodge and The Everyday Baker:<br />

“Everyday? Hardly! How about every minute? That’s how<br />

often we want to make the recipes from this baking pro<br />

who still makes it all too fun.”<br />

–Bruce Weinstein and Mark Scarbrough,<br />

Authors of The Great Big Pressure Cooker Book<br />

“I love to cook but don’t know how to bake. With Abby’s<br />

recipes, problem solved!”<br />

–Victoria Hagan, interior designer<br />

“Abby Dodge is the best baking teacher I know, bar none.<br />

To see her amazing techniques and genius flavor pairings<br />

come to life in this soon-to-be classic resource is pure joy.<br />

The Everyday Baker is a hugely generous cookbook, the<br />

kind that invites you to drop everything you are doing and<br />

start baking this very minute.”<br />

–Susie Middleton, cookbook author, farmer,<br />

and editor at large for Fine Cooking<br />

Available at www.TauntonStore.com or wherever books are sold.


crab and corn cakes with lime sour cream<br />

Classic crab cakes get a subtle Tex-Mex treatment with the addition of corn<br />

and a refreshing lettuce and cilantro salad on the side. Serves 4<br />

1 lb. lump crabmeat, picked over<br />

11/3 cups panko<br />

3/4 cup corn kernels, preferably fresh<br />

Kosher salt<br />

3 large eggs, lightly beaten<br />

4 cups shredded iceberg lettuce<br />

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro<br />

1 lime<br />

1 cup sour cream<br />

1/4 cup vegetable oil<br />

Combine the crab, panko, corn, and 11/2 tsp.<br />

salt in a large bowl. Gently stir in the eggs.<br />

With damp hands, tightly shape the mixture<br />

into eight 3/4-inch-thick cakes and place them<br />

on a small cutting board or flat plate. Refrigerate<br />

for 10 minutes.<br />

Meanwhile, toss the lettuce and cilantro<br />

together and arrange on 4 plates. Finely grate<br />

the zest and squeeze the juice from the lime<br />

into a small bowl. Stir in the sour cream, and<br />

thin with a little water to make a pourable<br />

sauce. Season to taste with salt.<br />

Heat 2 Tbs. of the oil in a 12-inch nonstick<br />

skillet over medium heat. Add 4 crab cakes<br />

and cook, flipping once, until golden brown,<br />

about 8 minutes. Repeat with the remaining<br />

oil and crab cakes. Divide the crab cakes<br />

among the plates and serve with the<br />

sour cream.<br />

20 cookfresh Summer 2017


Fine Cooking magazine features<br />

cooking<br />

from the publishers of fine Cooking<br />

ISBN 978-1-62710-915-4<br />

taunton product #071517<br />

NOW AVAILABLE<br />

SOUTHERN<br />

HEAT<br />

New Southern Cooking<br />

LATIN STYLE<br />

S has received high accolades from the<br />

gwen prateS i is co-owner with her husband<br />

’s photographer) of On the Road Culinary<br />

LA Times, and<br />

. Pratesi is a James Beard Award<br />

“Southern Heat is an<br />

A bold, bright,<br />

and fresh style<br />

of Southern<br />

cooking,<br />

American treasure<br />

combining the<br />

best ingredients<br />

of the South<br />

with the flavors<br />

with a Latin beat.”<br />

and textures<br />

Pp<br />

of Latin cuisine<br />

“A personal and delicious journey<br />

showcasing the ever-changing<br />

state of Southern food. Southern<br />

Heat will make you want to cook<br />

all day and all night.”<br />

—Sean Brock, Chef/owner, husk<br />

“Southern Heat showcases the<br />

great potential for diversity in<br />

American cooking. Its recipes<br />

are resplendent with chiles but<br />

anchored in the history of the<br />

regional foods of Kentucky.”<br />

—hugh acheson, Chef and author<br />

“Chef Anthony Lamas balances<br />

impeccable technique and his<br />

passion for the South with Latin<br />

energy and a level of creativity that<br />

makes his cooking a genuinely<br />

one-off proposition. Southern Heat<br />

is the perfect balance of culinary<br />

location and culinary heritage.”<br />

—Simon majumdar, author and Broadcaster<br />

– Bobby Flay, Chef<br />

Southern Heat<br />

$35.00, Hardcover<br />

US $35.00<br />

53500<br />

Product #071517<br />

9 781627 109154<br />

new Southern Cooking Latin Style Southern heat<br />

LAmAs And PrAtesi<br />

Taunton<br />

S<br />

Southern<br />

heat<br />

“An AmericAn treAsure with A LAtin beAt” — bobby flay<br />

Anthony LAmAs<br />

And Gwen PrAtesi<br />

new Southern Cooking<br />

Latin StyLe<br />

It's here: The debut cookbook from Anthony<br />

u.S. $35.00<br />

Lamas, Food Network Extreme Chef winner<br />

anthony Lamas is<br />

and Spicing up multiple the South! James Beard Best Chef nominee,<br />

What happens when<br />

and Gwen a Latino chef from Pratesi. In Southern Heat, Anthony<br />

California marries a<br />

girl from Kentucky? He<br />

opens Seviche, A Latin<br />

shares his style of Southern cooking, with<br />

Restaurant, in Louisville<br />

that features Latin-infused<br />

Southern food—and inspires<br />

recipes a movement that combines blend the best ingredients of the<br />

the best ingredients of the<br />

South with the flavors and<br />

textures of Latin cuisine, creating a bold style of<br />

Southern cooking.<br />

the bold flavors and textures of<br />

Taking the culinary world by storm, Anthony<br />

Lamas is spicing up the South, expressing his<br />

personality and Latino heritage cuisine. through his See how Anthony is spicing up<br />

modern interpretation of Southern food, layering<br />

flavors to achieve the perfect balance between<br />

brightness, citrus, acidity, heat, and spice.<br />

the in 125 inspired recipes.<br />

Get to know the best of this new style of Southern<br />

cooking in Southern Heat, where Anthony shares<br />

Order your copy today!<br />

Go to www.TauntonStore.com<br />

some of the most-loved dishes at Seviche as well<br />

as the food he grew up on in southern California.<br />

His appreciation for his heritage, mentors, and<br />

local farmers, his dedication to using sustainable<br />

ingredients, and his passion for flavor is conveyed<br />

through stories and tips as well as through<br />

stunning photography that sets the foundation for<br />

the more than 125 inspired recipes.<br />

I N S P I R I N G R E C I P E S F R O M S E A S O N S 1 A N D 2<br />

Look for Anthony’s recipes in Moveable Feast with Fine Cooking,<br />

the companion cookbook to the award-winning public TV show<br />

featuring recipes from some of the country’s best chefs. Now<br />

available at the Taunton Store.<br />

From the<br />

Public Television<br />

Series<br />

Award-winning<br />

Taunton<br />

Available at www.TauntonStore.com or wherever books are sold.<br />

© 2015 The Taunton Press<br />

finecooking.com 21


3 WAYS WITH...<br />

Scallions<br />

Versatile and affordable, these green onions add fresh<br />

flavor to recipes of all kinds.<br />

scallions, or green onions, are so versatile. You can use them<br />

as a color and flavor accent in pastas, salads, and stir-fries or as a<br />

garnish on a baked potato, but their fresh, oniony flavor makes them<br />

a wonderful feature ingredient, too, as the recipes here show. So grab<br />

a bag (or two), check out the tips below, and get cooking.<br />

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Choose scallions with firm white bulbs and<br />

fresh-looking green tops. Avoid those with slimy, wilted, or browned<br />

green parts.<br />

HOW TO STORE: Wrap whole scallions in damp paper towels<br />

and store in a zip-top bag in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator,<br />

where they should keep for about a week.<br />

HOW TO PREP: Always use a sharp knife when cutting<br />

scallions to avoid bruising them. Cut off any dried-out ends<br />

from the dark green tops (usually the top ¼ inch or so), trim the<br />

root ends, and rinse just before using.<br />

scallion oil<br />

Don’t let its pale hue fool you—this infused<br />

oil is bursting with fresh scallion flavor.<br />

Yields 1½ cups<br />

6 oz. scallions (10 to 12), green parts cut<br />

crosswise into 1-inch pieces, white parts<br />

chopped and lightly smashed<br />

1½ cups grapeseed or other neutral oil<br />

In a 2-quart saucepan, combine the scallions<br />

and oil. Slowly bring to a simmer over low heat,<br />

and then simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from<br />

the heat and let cool. Strain through a fine-mesh<br />

sieve into a small bowl, pushing down on the<br />

solids to extract as much oil as possible. Transfer<br />

to an airtight container and refrigerate for up to<br />

2 weeks.<br />

12 ways to use scallion oil<br />

This versatile oil can be used as a condiment,<br />

for cooking, or even as a finishing oil.<br />

As a dipping oil for:<br />

• french fries<br />

• bread<br />

• crudités<br />

As a cooking oil for:<br />

scrambled eggs<br />

popcorn<br />

fish or seafood<br />

• croutons<br />

As a finishing<br />

oil for:<br />

chicken or steak<br />

vegetables<br />

vinaigrettes<br />

soup<br />

• pasta<br />

22 COOKFRESH SUMMER 2017


lemony scallion pilaf<br />

This simple side dish is perfect<br />

with grilled fish, chicken, or shrimp.<br />

Serves 4<br />

1½ oz. (3 Tbs.) unsalted butter<br />

12 oz. scallions (20 to 24), thinly sliced,<br />

whites kept separate from greens<br />

Kosher salt and freshly ground<br />

black pepper<br />

¼ cup dry white wine<br />

1 cup basmati rice<br />

1¾ cups lower-salt chicken broth<br />

1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest<br />

2 tsp. fresh lemon juice<br />

korean-style<br />

scallion pancakes<br />

Known as pa jun in Korean (pa means scallion, and jun refers to battered,<br />

fried foods), these savory pancakes are more tender than their crispy<br />

Chinese counterparts. Paired with a spicy soy dipping sauce, they make<br />

a scrumptious snack, appetizer, or side dish. Serves 6 to 8<br />

FOR THE DIPPING SAUCE<br />

13 cup reduced-sodium soy sauce<br />

¼ cup rice vinegar<br />

1 Tbs. Asian sesame oil<br />

1 Tbs. thinly sliced scallions<br />

1 Tbs. packed dark brown sugar<br />

1 tsp. finely grated fresh ginger<br />

½ tsp. finely grated garlic<br />

½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes<br />

FOR THE PANCAKES<br />

9 oz. (2 cups) unbleached<br />

all-purpose flour<br />

2 large eggs, beaten<br />

Kosher salt<br />

6 oz. scallions (10 to 12), halved<br />

lengthwise and cut crosswise<br />

into 1-inch pieces<br />

2 tsp. vegetable oil;<br />

more as needed<br />

MAKE THE DIPPING SAUCE<br />

Mix all of the ingredients in a small bowl;<br />

set aside.<br />

MAKE THE PANCAKES<br />

Heat the oven to 200°F.<br />

Whisk the flour, eggs, 1 tsp. salt, and<br />

1½ cups water in a large bowl. Using a silicone<br />

spatula, gently fold in the scallions.<br />

Let the batter sit at room temperature<br />

for 10 minutes so that the flour can fully<br />

hydrate; the batter should be thick but<br />

pourable.<br />

Heat the vegetable oil in a 10-inch nonstick<br />

skillet over medium heat. Pour about<br />

¾ cup of the batter into the skillet, swirling<br />

the skillet and pushing the batter to the<br />

edges with the spatula. Cook until golden<br />

brown on the bottom, 3 to 4 minutes. Flip<br />

and cook until the other side is golden<br />

brown, about 2 minutes more. Transfer to<br />

a baking sheet and keep warm in the oven.<br />

Repeat with the remaining batter, adding<br />

more oil to the skillet as needed.<br />

Cut each pancake into wedges and<br />

serve with the sauce.<br />

Melt the butter in a 3- to 4-quart<br />

saucepan over medium heat. Add the<br />

scallion whites, ¼ tsp. salt, and a few<br />

grinds of pepper and cook, stirring<br />

often, until tender but not browned,<br />

about 5 minutes.<br />

Add the wine and simmer to reduce<br />

by half, about 2 minutes. Add the rice<br />

and cook, stirring often, until it begins<br />

to crackle, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the<br />

broth, lemon zest, and 1 tsp. salt; bring<br />

to a boil. Cover and turn the heat down<br />

to low. Cook until the rice is tender<br />

and the liquid is absorbed, about<br />

15 minutes.<br />

Remove from the heat and let<br />

sit, covered, for 5 minutes. Fluff the<br />

scallion greens and lemon juice into the<br />

rice with a fork and serve.<br />

FINECOOKING.COM 23


Peaches,<br />

Savory &<br />

Sweet<br />

Two marinades<br />

take this summer favorite<br />

fruit to new places.<br />

24 COOKFRESH SUMMER 2017


peaches at the peak of the season are something to get<br />

excited about. Since they have such a short season, you may<br />

want to stock up when they are at their best. Likely that would<br />

mean more peaches than you can eat for snacks, but we have<br />

the perfect solution for how to use them: Cut them up and<br />

marinate them. Marinating peaches draws out their luscious<br />

juices and allows their peachy flavor to merge with other<br />

ingredients like fresh herbs and tangy vinegar. You can also<br />

steer the marinade down a sweet or savory road, which opens<br />

up lots of options for how to serve the peaches. Sweet marinated<br />

peaches shine in breakfasts and quick desserts, while<br />

savory marinated peaches find their way into braises and<br />

salads, where the marinade pulls double duty as a vinaigrette.<br />

Another plus is that you can skip the tedious task of blanching<br />

and peeling the peaches because the marinade also softens the<br />

skins. So just make your peach marinades, kick back, and enjoy<br />

the taste of the season.<br />

Pick your marinade<br />

Whether you go sweet or savory, cut the fruit however<br />

you like and then just stir all the ingredients together. The<br />

peaches take on great flavor in as little as 20 minutes, but<br />

they can stay in the marinade for up to 48 hours. Reserve<br />

the marinade to use in the recipes.<br />

Savory, p. 26<br />

Sweet, p. 30<br />

finecooking.com 25


Savory<br />

Savory<br />

Marinated<br />

Peaches +<br />

pizza dough<br />

+ grilled sweet onions<br />

+ farmer cheese<br />

+ bacon<br />

+ fresh basil<br />

= a killer flatbread<br />

•<br />

shredded chicken<br />

+ mayo<br />

+ Dijon<br />

+ shallot<br />

= a grownup chicken salad<br />

•<br />

cherry tomatoes<br />

+ fresh lime juice<br />

+ jalapeño<br />

= a zippy salsa<br />

sherry vinegar and rosemary marinated peaches<br />

Vinegar and herbs tone down the peaches’ sweetness for savory dishes. Sherry<br />

vinegar brings complex tartness, fresh rosemary adds earthy pine notes, olive oil<br />

lends richness, and rum contributes a bit of spice. Yields 3 cups<br />

3 medium ripe peaches,<br />

pitted and sliced, diced,<br />

or cut into wedges<br />

1/₃ cup extra-virgin olive oil<br />

21/2 Tbs. spiced dark rum<br />

(optional)<br />

2 Tbs. sherry vinegar<br />

11/2<br />

tsp. finely chopped<br />

fresh rosemary<br />

Pinch of kosher salt<br />

Pinch of granulated<br />

sugar<br />

gently combine all of the<br />

ingredients in a medium bowl<br />

and let marinate at room<br />

temperature for at least<br />

20 minutes and up to<br />

24 hours. After marinating,<br />

you can refrigerate the<br />

peaches for up to 1 day.<br />

heirloom tomato and peach salad<br />

Start summer dinners on the patio with this simple salad. Or, pair it with creamy<br />

burrata and crusty bread and call it lunch. Serves 4 as a first course or side<br />

3 cups Sherry Vinegar and<br />

Rosemary Marinated<br />

Peaches (recipe above),<br />

drained, marinade<br />

reserved<br />

1 tsp. Dijon mustard<br />

4 large heirloom tomatoes<br />

(about 2 lb.), cored and<br />

sliced into 1/2-inch-thick<br />

rounds<br />

Flaky sea salt, such as<br />

Maldon, and freshly<br />

ground black pepper<br />

8 medium fresh mint<br />

leaves, torn<br />

in a small bowl, whisk<br />

together the reserved marinade<br />

and the Dijon; it’s ok if<br />

it doesn’t emulsify. Arrange<br />

the tomato slices on 4 plates<br />

or a platter, top with the<br />

peaches, and drizzle some<br />

of the vinaigrette over the<br />

top. season lightly with salt<br />

and pepper and garnish with<br />

the mint. Pass any remaining<br />

vinaigrette at the table.<br />

26 cookfresh summer 2017


28 cookfresh summer 2017


aised chicken thighs<br />

with savory marinated peaches<br />

These tender chicken thighs<br />

are dripping with savorysweet<br />

herbal flavors from the<br />

marinated peaches. Salty<br />

capers and crisp prosciutto<br />

seal the deal. Serves 4 to 6<br />

1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil;<br />

more as needed<br />

1 oz. thinly sliced prosciutto,<br />

cut crosswise into thin strips<br />

3 lb. bone-in, skin-on chicken<br />

thighs (about 8)<br />

Kosher salt and freshly<br />

ground black pepper<br />

1 medium leek, white and<br />

light green part only, thinly<br />

sliced (1 cup)<br />

3 medium cloves garlic,<br />

thinly sliced<br />

2 Tbs. all-purpose flour<br />

3 cups Sherry Vinegar and<br />

Rosemary Marinated<br />

Peaches (recipe, p. 26),<br />

drained, marinade<br />

reserved<br />

3 cups lower-salt chicken<br />

broth<br />

2 Tbs. drained capers<br />

2 Tbs. unsalted butter<br />

2 Tbs. fresh tarragon leaves,<br />

coarsely chopped<br />

Position a rack in the center of the<br />

oven and heat the oven to 350°F.<br />

Heat the oil in an 8-quart Dutch<br />

oven or other heavy-duty pot over<br />

medium heat. Add the prosciutto<br />

and cook, stirring occasionally,<br />

until crisp, about 5 minutes. With<br />

a slotted spoon, transfer to a bowl<br />

and set aside. If the pan is dry, add<br />

a little more oil.<br />

Season the chicken lightly on all<br />

sides with salt and pepper. Working<br />

in batches, brown the chicken on<br />

both sides, about 12 minutes total.<br />

Transfer to a plate.<br />

Turn the heat down to medium<br />

low. Pour off all but 1 Tbs. fat from<br />

the pot and then add the leek and<br />

garlic. Cook, stirring often, until<br />

beginning to soften, about<br />

5 minutes. Add the flour and<br />

cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add<br />

the reserved marinade and cook,<br />

scraping up any browned bits from<br />

the bottom of the pan, until the<br />

liquid thickens, about 2 minutes.<br />

Add the broth, season lightly with<br />

salt and pepper, and bring to a<br />

boil. Arrange the chicken in the<br />

pot skin side up, return to a boil,<br />

and transfer the pot to the oven<br />

to braise, uncovered, until the<br />

chicken cooks through, about<br />

25 minutes.<br />

Take the pot out of the oven.<br />

Turn the broiler on high. Transfer<br />

the chicken, skin side up, to a foillined<br />

rimmed baking sheet.<br />

Simmer the sauce in the pot<br />

over medium-high heat, stirring<br />

occasionally, until thickened and<br />

reduced by about half, about<br />

10 minutes. Lower the heat to<br />

medium and stir in the capers<br />

and peaches; cook until heated<br />

through. Stir in the butter until<br />

it melts, then stir in 1 Tbs. of the<br />

tarragon and season to taste with<br />

salt and pepper.<br />

Meanwhile, broil the chicken<br />

until the skin is crisp, about<br />

3 minutes.<br />

Return the chicken to the pot<br />

or transfer it to a large platter<br />

and spoon the sauce over it.<br />

Garnish with the prosciutto and<br />

the remaining tarragon leaves,<br />

and serve.<br />

finecooking.com 29


own sugar and<br />

thyme marinated<br />

peaches<br />

Brown sugar and white<br />

balsamic vinegar lend<br />

peaches a caramelly flavor,<br />

while a semidry wine enhances<br />

their sweet tartness. Fresh<br />

thyme adds an herbal note.<br />

Yields 3 cups<br />

Sweet<br />

3 medium ripe peaches, pitted<br />

and sliced, diced, or cut<br />

into wedges<br />

1/₃ cup packed light brown sugar<br />

1/₃ cup off-dry (sweet) white wine,<br />

preferably Gewürztraminer<br />

Pinch of kosher salt<br />

3 Tbs. white balsamic vinegar<br />

11/2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves<br />

gently combine all of the ingredients<br />

in a medium bowl and let<br />

marinate at room temperature<br />

for at least 20 minutes and up to<br />

24 hours. After marinating, you<br />

can refrigerate the peaches for<br />

up to 1 day.<br />

Sweet<br />

Marinated<br />

Peaches +<br />

buttermilk biscuits<br />

+ whipped cream<br />

+ mascarpone<br />

+ lemon zest<br />

= deluxe shortcakes<br />

•<br />

vanilla ice cream<br />

+ cream soda<br />

= a sophisticated float<br />

•<br />

bourbon<br />

+ ginger beer<br />

+ peach bitters<br />

= a spicysweet cocktail<br />

overnight oatmeal with sweet marinated peaches<br />

This overnight method is fabulous; the flavors have a chance to develop, and the<br />

oats get a softer, creamier texture. It’s the ideal backdrop for marinated peaches<br />

and crunchy toasted walnuts. Serves 4<br />

2 Tbs. whole milk<br />

2 Tbs. packed light brown sugar<br />

1 tsp. pure vanilla extract<br />

3/4 tsp. ground cinnamon<br />

¼ tsp. kosher salt<br />

1 cup steel-cut oats, preferably McCann’s<br />

3 cups Brown Sugar and Thyme Marinated<br />

Peaches (recipe above left), drained,<br />

¼ cup marinade reserved<br />

2 oz. (1/2 cup) toasted walnuts, coarsely<br />

chopped<br />

1/2 tsp. chia seeds (optional)<br />

Heavy cream (optional)<br />

combine the milk, sugar, vanilla, cinnamon,<br />

salt, and 4 cups water in a 4-quart saucepan<br />

over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve<br />

the sugar. Bring to a boil. stir in the oats,<br />

simmer for 1 minute, then remove from the<br />

heat. Let cool at room temperature until<br />

tepid, then cover and refrigerate overnight.<br />

Bring the oatmeal to a simmer over<br />

medium heat and cook, stirring occasionally,<br />

until thick and the oats are tender and<br />

chewy, about 10 minutes.<br />

off the heat, stir in the reserved marinade.<br />

Divide among 4 bowls, and top with<br />

the peaches, walnuts, and chia seeds, if<br />

using. Drizzle with heavy cream, if using,<br />

and serve.<br />

30 cookfresh summer 2017


sweet marinated peach tart with honey-yogurt mousse<br />

Perfect for a dinner party and easier<br />

to make than a peach pie, this tart<br />

marries sweet peaches and a creamy<br />

yogurt mousse in a press-in shortbread<br />

crust. If you’re short on time, you can<br />

skip the crust and serve the mousse<br />

topped with the peaches in little bowls<br />

or wineglasses. Serves 8 to 10<br />

FOR THE CRUST<br />

9 oz. (2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour<br />

7 oz. (14 Tbs.) chilled unsalted butter, cut<br />

into 1-inch pieces<br />

3 oz. (3/4 cup) confectioners’ sugar<br />

1 large egg, beaten<br />

1 Tbs. cornstarch<br />

1 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest<br />

(from 1 large lemon)<br />

1 tsp. kosher salt<br />

FOR THE MOUSSE<br />

1/8 oz. (1 tsp.) unflavored powdered gelatin<br />

3/4 cup plus 1 Tbs. heavy cream<br />

3 Tbs. honey<br />

11/2 cups plain Greek yogurt<br />

Pinch of kosher salt<br />

FOR THE TOPPING<br />

3 cups Brown Sugar and Thyme<br />

Marinated Peaches (recipe, facing<br />

page), drained, marinade reserved<br />

MAKE THE CRUST<br />

In a food processor, pulse the flour,<br />

butter, confectioners’ sugar, egg,<br />

cornstarch, lemon zest, and salt<br />

until the dough comes together in<br />

big clumps, about twenty 1-second<br />

pulses. The dough will be very soft<br />

and pliable.<br />

Transfer the dough to a 9-inch<br />

springform pan. Flour your fingertips<br />

and press the dough onto the bottom<br />

and sides of the pan in an even layer.<br />

Start by pressing the dough up the<br />

sides, which should be just under 1/4 inch<br />

thick, and reflour your fingers as necessary.<br />

Wrap the pan in plastic and refrigerate<br />

for at least 1 hour and up to 1 day.<br />

Position a rack in the lower third of the<br />

oven and heat the oven to 350°F.<br />

Prick the bottom of the crust all over with<br />

a fork. Line the crust with aluminum foil and<br />

fill with pie weights or dried beans, gently<br />

pressing them against the sides. Bake until<br />

the edges begin to turn golden, about 20 minutes.<br />

Carefully remove the weights and foil.<br />

Continue to bake the crust until golden brown<br />

and the bottom is firm and dry, 15 to 20 minutes.<br />

If the crust puffs up during baking, use<br />

the back of a spoon to gently press it down.<br />

Cool completely on a wire rack.<br />

MAKE THE MOUSSE<br />

In a small bowl, sprinkle the gelatin over 1 Tbs.<br />

cold water; let stand until the gelatin softens,<br />

about 5 minutes.<br />

Meanwhile, stir 1 Tbs. of the cream with the<br />

honey in a 2-quart saucepan over medium<br />

heat until the honey melts, about 2 minutes.<br />

Stir in the gelatin mixture and remove from<br />

the heat. Add the yogurt and salt, and whisk<br />

until smooth.<br />

In a large bowl, whisk the remaining 3/4 cup<br />

cream until soft peaks form. Gently fold<br />

the yogurt mixture into the<br />

cream.<br />

Pour the mousse into the cooled crust<br />

and smooth to the edges with a small offset<br />

spatula. Cover and refrigerate until firm, at<br />

least 4 hours and up to 2 days.<br />

TOP THE TART<br />

Simmer the reserved marinade in a 1-quart<br />

pot over medium heat until syrupy, about<br />

5 minutes; refrigerate until cold, 30 minutes<br />

and up to 1 day.<br />

When ready to serve, transfer the tart to a<br />

serving plate. Spoon the peaches and a little<br />

of the syrup over the mousse. Slice and serve<br />

drizzled with the remaining peach syrup.


Harissa<br />

Hot<br />

sauce<br />

Chipotles<br />

in adobo<br />

Sambal<br />

oelek<br />

Sriracha<br />

Wasabi<br />

Turn Up<br />

the heat<br />

Serve suppers with a kick when you cook with<br />

flavor-packed, spicy ingredients.<br />

want to crank up the flavor in your weeknight<br />

meals? Reach for a bottle of Sriracha or<br />

a jar of sambal oelek the next time you’re at<br />

the store. Spicy sauces like these bring a lot to<br />

the table. The dishes here feature pepper- and<br />

mustard-based ingredients that, when used in<br />

the right amounts, will not overwhelm with fire<br />

but give meals a flavorful bump.<br />

32 cookfresh summer 2017


spicy chipotle<br />

shrimp, avocado,<br />

and corn fajitas<br />

Arrange the fajitas and fixings<br />

on a buffet table, bar<br />

style, for casual entertaining,<br />

or serve the components on<br />

various platters at the table.<br />

Serves 4<br />

1 lb. shrimp (26 to 30 per lb.),<br />

peeled and deveined<br />

4 Tbs. olive oil<br />

1 tsp. chili powder<br />

Kosher salt and freshly<br />

ground black pepper<br />

1 large Haas avocado (about<br />

1/2 lb.), cut into 1/2-inch dice<br />

1 chipotle, minced, plus 1 Tbs.<br />

adobo sauce (from a can of<br />

chipotles in adobo)<br />

1 lime, half juiced (about<br />

1 Tbs.) and half cut into<br />

wedges<br />

1 large yellow onion, thinly<br />

sliced (about 3 cups)<br />

1 large clove garlic, minced<br />

1 cup frozen corn, thawed, or<br />

the kernels from 2 ears corn<br />

8 corn tortillas, warmed<br />

1/4 cup coarsely chopped<br />

fresh cilantro<br />

Toss the shrimp with 1 Tbs. of the<br />

oil, the chili powder, 1/4 tsp. salt,<br />

and 1/2 tsp. pepper. In a medium<br />

bowl, mash the avocado with the<br />

chipotle and adobo sauce, lime<br />

juice, and 1/4 tsp. salt.<br />

heat 11/2 Tbs. oil in a large<br />

(12-inch) skillet over mediumhigh<br />

heat until shimmering. Add<br />

the shrimp and cook, stirring, until<br />

they turn pink and become just<br />

firm to the touch, about 2 minutes.<br />

Transfer to a large plate.<br />

reduce the heat to medium,<br />

and add the remaining 11/2 Tbs.<br />

oil to the pan. Add the onion,<br />

sprinkle with 1/2 tsp. salt, and cook,<br />

stirring, until the onion softens<br />

and starts to brown, about<br />

6 minutes. Add the garlic and<br />

cook, stirring, for 30 seconds.<br />

Add the corn and shrimp, and<br />

cook, stirring, until they heat<br />

through, about 2 minutes.<br />

Let your guests help themselves<br />

by spreading the avocado<br />

on a warm tortilla and topping the<br />

spread with some of the shrimp<br />

mixture, a squeeze of lime juice,<br />

and a sprinkling of the cilantro.<br />

chipoTLeS in aDobo<br />

When you want to add a hit of hot, smoky flavor to your cooking, reach for a can of<br />

chipotle chiles in adobo. Chipotles are dried, smoked jalapeños. Adobo is a tangy, slightly<br />

sweet red sauce. Put them together in a can and they become a versatile pantry staple.<br />

You can use just the chipotles for intense smoky chile heat or just the sauce if you want a<br />

sour-sweet flavor and a slightly less fiery smoky heat. Or you can use them together, as in<br />

the recipe above.<br />

The chipotles are soft and ready to go straight from the can. They can be quite spicy,<br />

but you can temper the heat a bit by scraping out the seeds. The size of chipotles often<br />

varies, so if a recipe calls for two chipotles and you choose the biggest one, you might<br />

want to use just one. To store, transfer unused chiles and sauce to an airtight container—<br />

preferably glass, as the sauce tends to stain plastic—and refrigerate for about a month.<br />

fInecookIng.com 33


34 cookfresh summer 2017


ourbon-marinated buffalo chicken strips with maytag blue dip<br />

Instead of the traditional chicken wings, this recipe calls for juicy boneless, skinless chicken thighs. The Maytag dip can be<br />

made up to 4 days ahead, but definitely start this dish at least a day ahead of time to let the chicken marinate. Yields 2 lb.;<br />

serves 4 as a main dish or 8 to 12 as an appetizer<br />

FOR THE CHICKEN<br />

1/4 cup bourbon<br />

1/4 cup soy sauce<br />

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice<br />

2 lb. boneless, skinless chicken thighs<br />

FOR THE DIP<br />

1/4 lb. Maytag Blue, crumbled<br />

1/2 cup mayonnaise (homemade<br />

or prepared)<br />

1/4 cup sour cream<br />

2 Tbs. cider vinegar<br />

1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions<br />

1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh<br />

flat-leaf parsley<br />

1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh dill<br />

1/2 tsp. coarse salt<br />

1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper<br />

Pinch of cayenne<br />

FOR THE SAUCE<br />

1/4 cup Crystal Hot Sauce (or another brand<br />

of cayenne hot sauce such as Frank’s or<br />

Durkee but not a fiery sauce like Tabasco)<br />

4 Tbs. melted unsalted butter<br />

3/4 tsp. coarse salt<br />

1 Tbs. cornstarch mixed with 1/4 cup water<br />

FOR FINISHING THE DISH<br />

About 1 quart vegetable oil for frying<br />

1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper<br />

3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour<br />

1 seedless cucumber, unpeeled,<br />

cut into spears<br />

1 celery heart, washed and drained,<br />

cut into sticks<br />

Marinate the chicken<br />

In a large bowl, combine the bourbon, soy<br />

sauce, and lemon juice. Trim and discard any<br />

visible fat on the chicken thighs. Cut each<br />

thigh lengthwise into 5 to 6 strips. Toss the<br />

strips in the bourbon mixture. Cover and<br />

refrigerate for 24 hours.<br />

Make the dip<br />

Blend half the cheese with the mayonnaise<br />

in a food processor until smooth. Add the<br />

sour cream and cider vinegar and process<br />

until the mixture has the consistency of<br />

creamy mayonnaise. Add the scallions,<br />

parsley, and dill and process again briefly.<br />

Add the remaining cheese, process very<br />

briefly (the dip should be slightly chunky),<br />

and remove from the food processor. Add<br />

the salt, pepper, and cayenne. Wrap well and<br />

re frigerate for up to 4 days.<br />

Make the sauce<br />

In a small saucepan, whisk together the hot<br />

sauce, melted butter, salt, and cornstarch<br />

mixture. Heat while whisking constantly until<br />

the mixture comes to a boil. The sauce should<br />

be smooth and slightly thickened. Remove<br />

from the heat and keep warm.<br />

Finish the dish<br />

Heat the oven to 250°F. Pour enough oil into<br />

a wok or deep, heavy pot to reach about<br />

2 inches. Heat the oil to 365°F or until the oil<br />

shimmers and the air 2 inches above the oil<br />

feels hot.<br />

Drain the chicken well and pat dry with<br />

paper towels. Season the chicken with the<br />

1/2 tsp. pepper. Spread the flour in a wide,<br />

shallow container and dredge one-third of<br />

the thigh strips, shaking off any excess flour.<br />

Carefully put the strips one at a time in the hot<br />

oil. Fry until the strips are golden brown, about<br />

7 minutes. Remove from the oil and drain on<br />

paper towels. Repeat this process until all the<br />

chicken has been fried.<br />

Put the fried chicken in a large bowl. Toss<br />

with the warm sauce and spread in a single<br />

layer on a baking sheet. Heat in the oven for<br />

about 5 minutes so the sauce is absorbed.<br />

Serve immediately with the dip, cucumber,<br />

and celery.<br />

Hot Sauce<br />

There’s a world of hot sauce out there, but there’s nothing<br />

quite like the piquant zing of Louisiana-style sauces. Why?<br />

Louisiana hot sauces are vinegar-based, so along with a<br />

spicy kick, their acidity lends a certain brightness to rich,<br />

earthy dishes. The vinegar in the sauce is an important<br />

finishing touch.<br />

Louisiana-style hot sauces get their heat from tabasco<br />

or cayenne chiles or both, which are mashed and aged to<br />

develop the flavors. Aside from the chiles and vinegar, salt<br />

and water are often the only other ingredients. Tabasco brand<br />

is probably the most famous (and one of the hottest) of the<br />

genre, but there are many others: Frank’s RedHot, Crystal,<br />

Texas Pete, and Louisiana Hot Sauce are just a few.<br />

finecooking.com 35


spicy pan-fried noodles with tofu<br />

Seared tofu is the perfect vehicle to carry the sweet, sour, and savory flavors of<br />

this dish. Buying cooked noodles (look for them next to the tofu) saves a step; if<br />

you can’t find them, use 8 oz. uncooked and cook them according to package<br />

directions. Serves 4<br />

1/4 cup soy sauce<br />

3 Tbs. packed dark brown sugar<br />

2 Tbs. fresh lime juice, plus lime<br />

wedges for serving<br />

11/2 Tbs. Sriracha; more for serving<br />

2 large cloves garlic, minced<br />

3 Tbs. vegetable or peanut oil<br />

12 to 14 oz. extra-firm or pressed tofu,<br />

patted dry and cut into 3/4-inch cubes<br />

Kosher salt and freshly ground<br />

white pepper<br />

2 medium carrots, halved lengthwise and<br />

thinly sliced on the diagonal<br />

1 lb. cooked Asian-style noodles, such as<br />

udon or yakisoba<br />

6 medium scallions, cut into 1-inch lengths,<br />

white and dark green parts separated<br />

2 cups thinly sliced green cabbage<br />

Whisk the soy sauce, sugar, lime juice, Sriracha,<br />

garlic, and 2 Tbs. water in a small bowl;<br />

set aside.<br />

Heat 1 Tbs. of the oil in a 14-inch wok or<br />

12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high<br />

heat until shimmering hot. Add the tofu,<br />

season generously with salt and pepper, and<br />

cook, stirring occasionally, until browned on<br />

all sides, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a large<br />

bowl. Add another 1 Tbs. oil to the pan, and<br />

then add the carrots. Season with salt and<br />

pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until<br />

crisp-tender and well browned in spots, 3 to<br />

5 minutes. Transfer to the bowl with the tofu.<br />

Add the remaining 1 Tbs. oil, the cooked<br />

noodles, and the scallion whites to the skillet.<br />

Cook, stirring occasionally, until the noodles<br />

are browned in spots and the scallions are<br />

tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir the sauce and then<br />

carefully pour it over the noodles; the mixture<br />

will steam. Toss well to coat and cook, stirring,<br />

until the sauce is reduced to a sticky glaze,<br />

about 2 minutes.<br />

Return the tofu and carrots to the wok. Add<br />

the cabbage and the scallion greens and toss<br />

well. Serve with lime wedges and additional<br />

Sriracha if desired.<br />

Sriracha<br />

A Thai-style chile sauce, Sriracha<br />

is made from sun-ripened chiles,<br />

garlic, sugar, salt, and vinegar, giving<br />

it a hot-sweet-sour-salty flavor<br />

profile. Its ketchup-like, smooth,<br />

seedless consistency makes Sriracha<br />

an ideal condiment to add a<br />

jolt of heat to sandwiches, soups,<br />

and other dishes.<br />

Sriracha‘s tangy bite, though<br />

best suited to Asian foods,<br />

matches most all cuisines. The<br />

heat from Sriracha is sweeter than<br />

the vinegary tang that marks most<br />

hot sauces. Huy Fong Foods, the<br />

folks who make Sriracha, explain<br />

that this sweetness comes from<br />

sun-ripened chiles and garlic. The<br />

smooth red paste has a slightly<br />

drier consistency than ketchup. It<br />

can be squeezed out of the bottle<br />

with ease and to artful results—<br />

when you’re in a playful mood, you<br />

can decorate a dish with the sauce<br />

the way a restaurant cook might<br />

use a squeeze bottle.


crispy fish sandwiches with wasabi and ginger<br />

Wasabi, ginger, and soy sauce give this otherwise typical fried fish sandwich a bright and spicy flavor. Look for tubes of wasabi<br />

paste near other Asian ingredients in the supermarket. Serves 4<br />

1/2 cup mayonnaise<br />

1 medium lime, finely grated to<br />

yield 1/2 tsp. zest and squeezed<br />

to yield 4 tsp. juice<br />

11/2 tsp. wasabi paste; more to taste<br />

Kosher salt and freshly ground<br />

black pepper<br />

2 large eggs<br />

2 Tbs. soy sauce<br />

1 cup panko<br />

4 4- to 5-oz. boneless, skinless hake,<br />

haddock, or cod fillets (preferably<br />

1 to 11/2 inches thick)<br />

1/2 cup plus 1 Tbs. vegetable oil<br />

1 tsp. finely grated fresh ginger<br />

3 cups thinly sliced iceberg lettuce (1/4 head)<br />

4 hamburger buns, lightly toasted<br />

In a small bowl, combine the mayonnaise, lime<br />

zest, 1 tsp. of the lime juice, and the wasabi<br />

paste. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and<br />

more wasabi, if you like.<br />

In a wide, shallow bowl, lightly beat the eggs<br />

and 1 Tbs. of the soy sauce until combined.<br />

Put the panko in another wide shallow bowl.<br />

Pat the fish fillets dry and lightly season<br />

with salt. Working with one fillet at a time, dip<br />

it in the egg mixture, letting any excess drip<br />

off, then coat with the panko, pressing the<br />

breadcrumbs onto the fish. Set each breaded<br />

fillet on a plate or tray as you finish it.<br />

In a 10-inch nonstick skillet, heat 1/2 cup of<br />

the oil over medium heat until shimmering<br />

hot. Fry the fish, flipping once, until well<br />

browned and just cooked through, 5 to<br />

8 minutes total. Transfer to paper towels<br />

to drain, and sprinkle each fillet with a pinch<br />

of salt.<br />

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, stir together the<br />

remaining 1 Tbs. lime juice, 1 Tbs. soy sauce,<br />

1 Tbs. oil, the ginger, 1/4 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp.<br />

pepper. Add the lettuce and toss to coat.<br />

Spread the wasabi mayonnaise on both<br />

cut sides of the buns. Put one fish fillet on the<br />

bottom of each bun, then top with the lettuce<br />

and the bun top.<br />

Wasabi<br />

If you’re a fan of sushi and sashimi, then you’re already<br />

familiar with wasabi. For the uninitiated, wasabi is the<br />

tingling-hot, sinus-clearing pasty green condiment that<br />

accompanies those popular Japanese seafood dishes.<br />

In addition to serving it with sushi, we also like to add it<br />

to mashed potatoes and to mayonnaise, as it is here.<br />

Also known as Japanese horse radish, wasabi is a<br />

member of the mustard family. Fresh wasabi is expensive<br />

and hard to find, but you can get it in powdered or<br />

paste form at Asian markets and in the Asian section<br />

of the supermarket (or see p. 93 for an online source).<br />

Powdered wasabi is the better option: It has more of<br />

a kick than the commercial paste. Buy wasabi in the<br />

smallest quantity available because, like dried spices,<br />

its potency dissipates over time.<br />

finecooking.com 37


spicy asian roasted broccoli and snap peas<br />

If you have trouble finding fresh Thai chiles (also called bird chiles), try<br />

using the same amount of the dried version. For more on miso, see Test<br />

Kitchen, p. 85. Serves 4<br />

SaMbaL<br />

oeLeK<br />

Although chiles are native to the New World,<br />

once they crossed the Pacific, they became<br />

wildly popular in Eastern Asian cuisines.<br />

In addition to using fresh and dried chiles,<br />

East Asian cooks also rely on a variety of<br />

prepared chile pastes and sauces to add<br />

spicy heat to their dishes. Asian chile pastes<br />

and sauces (the distinction between the<br />

two having more to do with what their<br />

manufacturers choose to call them than<br />

with their consistency), like sambal oelek,<br />

are made primarily from ground chiles, oil<br />

or vinegar, and salt. They may also include<br />

other flavors, such as garlic, ginger, sugar,<br />

sesame, black beans, or soy beans. If garlic<br />

is added, the product is often identified<br />

as “chile paste with garlic” or “chile- garlic<br />

paste,” and if soybeans predominate, it’s<br />

called “hot bean paste.” Unlike most of the<br />

thin, smooth, chile-based hot sauces of<br />

the Americas, Asian chile pastes tend to be<br />

coarse and on the thick side, full of bits of<br />

ground chiles and sometimes whole seeds.<br />

Pastes from Southeast Asian countries like<br />

Indo nesia and Vietnam are typically bottled<br />

fresh, while Chinese and Korean pastes are<br />

usually fermented first.<br />

You can spice up anything with chile<br />

paste. Add it at the beginning of cooking if<br />

you want it to really permeate the dish, or at<br />

the end if you want more of a surface heat.<br />

Until you’re familiar with the heat level or the<br />

brand you’re using, start with a very small<br />

amount; you can always add more.<br />

You’ll find the broadest variety of chile<br />

pastes at an Asian grocery store. Be sure the<br />

first ingredient listed is chiles. Chile pastes<br />

aren’t usually labeled as to their heat intensity,<br />

so experiment to find a brand you like.<br />

Some pastes separate during storage, so<br />

stir them before using. Once opened, chile<br />

pastes will last indefinitely if tightly covered<br />

and refrigerated. Transfer canned paste to a<br />

jar before storing.<br />

5 cups broccoli florets (from<br />

about 2 broccoli crowns)<br />

3 cups (about 12 oz.) fresh<br />

sugar snap peas, trimmed<br />

6 to 8 red or orange fresh Thai<br />

chiles, stems trimmed<br />

3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil<br />

2 plus 1 tsp. toasted sesame oil<br />

1 tsp. kosher salt<br />

2 Tbs. fresh cilantro leaves,<br />

chopped<br />

11/2 Tbs. light-colored (white or<br />

yellow) miso (see p. 85 for<br />

more information)<br />

1 Tbs. honey<br />

2 tsp. sambal oelek (Asian<br />

chile paste)<br />

1 tsp. finely grated orange zest<br />

1 tsp. grated fresh ginger<br />

1 clove garlic, minced<br />

Position a rack in the center of the oven<br />

and heat the oven to 450°f.<br />

Put the broccoli, peas, and chiles in a<br />

large bowl; toss with 2 Tbs. of the olive<br />

oil and 2 Tbs. of the sesame oil. sprinkle<br />

with salt and toss again. Transfer the<br />

vegetables to a 10x15-inch Pyrex dish<br />

and roast, stirring once, until the peas<br />

are lightly browned and the broccoli<br />

tops are quite dark in spots, about<br />

22 minutes.<br />

meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk the<br />

remaining 1 Tbs. olive oil, 1 tsp. sesame<br />

oil, cilantro, miso, honey, sambal oelek,<br />

orange zest, ginger, and garlic. Pour the<br />

mixture over the roasted vegetables<br />

and toss to coat. remove the chiles (or<br />

leave them in for color but warn diners<br />

not to eat them). serve immediately.<br />

38 cookfresh summer 2017


moroccan chicken burgers<br />

with feta and carrot slaw<br />

These burgers come packed with aromatic flavor thanks to<br />

cumin, fresh ginger, mint, and harissa, a spicy North African<br />

condiment. Serves 4<br />

1 lb. ground chicken (preferably not<br />

100% breast meat)<br />

1/2 medium yellow onion, grated on<br />

the large holes of a box grater<br />

3 Tbs. chopped fresh mint<br />

2 Tbs. harissa<br />

11/2 tsp. ground cumin<br />

11/2 tsp. finely grated fresh ginger<br />

Kosher salt<br />

3 medium carrots, grated on<br />

the large holes of a box grater<br />

or cut into thin strips with a<br />

julienne peeler<br />

1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice;<br />

more to taste<br />

2 tsp. granulated sugar<br />

1 tsp. cumin seed<br />

Vegetable oil for grilling<br />

4 mini whole-wheat pitas, slit open<br />

11/2 oz. crumbled feta (₃ cup)<br />

Prepare a medium (350°f to 375°f)<br />

gas or charcoal grill fire.<br />

With your hands, gently mix the<br />

chicken, onion, 1 Tbs. of the mint, the<br />

harissa, ground cumin, ginger, and<br />

¾ tsp. salt in a large bowl. With wet<br />

hands, form into four 1/2-inch-thick<br />

patties.<br />

Toss the remaining 2 Tbs. mint with<br />

the carrots, lemon juice, sugar, cumin<br />

seed, and 1/4 tsp. salt. season to taste<br />

with more lemon juice and salt.<br />

oil the grill grate and grill the<br />

burgers, flipping once, until cooked<br />

through (165°f), 8 to 10 minutes total.<br />

serve the burgers in the pitas along<br />

with the feta and slaw.<br />

hariSSa<br />

Just about every area of the world has a favorite<br />

type of chile sauce. In North Africa, it’s harissa, a<br />

chile paste scented with cumin, coriander, and garlic,<br />

which is used to flavor couscous and kebabs, as<br />

well as various salads. Primarily Tunisian, harissa is<br />

also used in Moroccan, Algerian, and Libyan cooking.<br />

Ranging in heat from mild to scorching hot, harissa<br />

is used as both a condiment and an ingredient that’s<br />

stirred into couscous, tagines (stews), soups, and<br />

pastas. Look for harissa in tubes, cans, or jars at wellstocked<br />

grocery stores and specialty markets.<br />

fInecookIng.com 39


FARM<br />

TO<br />

SPOON<br />

In Italy, they eat soup in summer (and so should you).<br />

Should grilling season signal the end of soup<br />

season? Nope. Think about it: Now is when nature’s most<br />

glorious parade of vegetables is at farmers’ markets—juicy<br />

tomatoes, sweet bell peppers, green and golden squash, purple<br />

eggplant, and crisp, fresh corn among them. These beauties<br />

are good for more than just a quick turn on the grill or<br />

a spot in your salad bowl; they are prime soup vegetables, and<br />

as cooks across Italy know well, they make incredibly flavorful,<br />

fragrant summer soups. Some may question whether<br />

it’s too hot in the summer to eat soup. But that’s the key to a<br />

summer soup—serving temperature. Don’t serve them piping<br />

hot, but rather just warm or at room temperature, as the<br />

Italians do. That way, they fit perfectly with the weather, and<br />

soup season never has to end.<br />

Soup Secrets<br />

Italian cooks build flavor into their soups at every step of the cooking process. Here are a few ways you can do this, too.<br />

• Use homemade broth whenever<br />

possible for the most<br />

natural flavor.<br />

• For a meaty flavor boost, cook<br />

some diced pancetta along<br />

with the aromatics (carrot,<br />

onion, celery).<br />

• Add minced fresh, hardy herbs,<br />

like rosemary or thyme, to<br />

the aromatics for deeper<br />

herbal notes.<br />

• Freeze leftover Grana Padano<br />

or Parmi giano-Reggiano rinds<br />

and then toss one into the<br />

soup pot to infuse the broth.<br />

Bonus: Scraping the softened<br />

cheese from the rind before<br />

serving the soup is the ultimate<br />

cook’s treat.<br />

• Garnish your soup to add<br />

contrasting or complementary<br />

textures and flavors. Freshly<br />

grated Grana Padano, Parmigiano,<br />

or pecorino, toasted<br />

croutons, fried sage leaves,<br />

and/or a drizzle of really good<br />

extra-virgin olive oil are all delicious<br />

options.<br />

40 cookfresh summer 2017


BASE<br />

RECIPE<br />

roasted<br />

vegetable broth<br />

This broth will boost the vegetable flavor in the soups on the following pages.<br />

It’s pretty hands off, so put a pot on whenever you know you’ll be home for a<br />

couple of hours. If time is short, you can use store-bought broth, too. Yields about 2 quarts<br />

6 sprigs fresh flat­leaf parsley<br />

6 sprigs fresh thyme<br />

6 medium carrots, cut into 1­inch pieces<br />

4 medium celery ribs, cut into 1­inch pieces<br />

1 large yellow onion, peeled and<br />

cut into 8 wedges<br />

1 medium red onion, peeled and<br />

cut into 8 wedges<br />

2 Tbs. extra­virgin olive oil<br />

Kosher salt and freshly ground<br />

black pepper<br />

1 cup dry white wine<br />

Position a rack in the center of the oven<br />

and heat the oven to 450°f.<br />

In a large roasting pan, toss the herb<br />

sprigs, carrots, celery, and onions with the<br />

oil, 2 tsp. salt, and a few grinds of black<br />

pepper. spread into a snug single layer.<br />

roast, stirring twice, until the vegetables<br />

are tender and browned in spots, about<br />

40 minutes.<br />

Transfer everything to a 6-quart heavyduty<br />

pot, add 3 quarts cold water, and<br />

bring to a boil. Turn the heat down and<br />

simmer gently, uncovered, for 30 minutes.<br />

Add the wine and simmer until the broth<br />

is reduced by about one-third and has<br />

a full vegetable flavor, 20 to 30 minutes<br />

more. season to taste with more salt, if<br />

necessary.<br />

strain the broth through a fine-mesh<br />

sieve lined with damp cheesecloth or<br />

a coffee filter into a clean container,<br />

pressing gently on the vegetables to<br />

extract as much liquid as possible. Discard<br />

the solids.<br />

If you are not using the broth<br />

immediately, let it cool, then cover and<br />

refrigerate for up to 3 days or freeze for up<br />

to 3 months.<br />

creamy roasted pepper and tomato soup<br />

Bell peppers may be available in supermarkets all year long, but nothing beats<br />

the flavor of the sweet peppers that dominate farmers’ markets in August and<br />

September; that’s the ideal time to make this rich soup with its crispy-salty fried<br />

caper garnish. Straining the soup through a fine-mesh sieve before serving yields<br />

silky results; for a more rustic version, use a medium-mesh sieve. Serves 6<br />

3 lb. red bell peppers, cut into<br />

1­inch­wide strips<br />

2 lb. ripe plum tomatoes, seeded and<br />

cut into 1­inch pieces<br />

3 medium carrots, cut into<br />

1­inch pieces<br />

1 large yellow onion, cut into<br />

8 wedges<br />

1 large red onion, cut into 8 wedges<br />

6 large fresh basil leaves, torn<br />

4 sprigs fresh thyme<br />

1 tsp. sweet Hungarian paprika<br />

¼ tsp. cayenne; more to taste<br />

Kosher salt and freshly ground<br />

black pepper<br />

9 Tbs. extra­virgin olive oil<br />

3 cups Roasted Vegetable Broth<br />

(recipe above) or store­bought<br />

lower­salt vegetable or chicken broth<br />

¼ cup heavy cream<br />

1½ Tbs. red­wine vinegar<br />

2 Tbs. small (nonpareil) capers,<br />

drained and patted dry<br />

Position a rack in the center of the oven and<br />

heat the oven to 450°f.<br />

In a large roasting pan, toss the peppers,<br />

tomatoes, carrots, onions, basil, and thyme<br />

with the paprika, cayenne, 1 tsp. salt, a<br />

few grinds of pepper, and 6 Tbs. of the oil.<br />

roast the vegetables, turning them every<br />

15 minutes or so, until tender and browned in<br />

spots, about 45 minutes.<br />

Discard the thyme stems and let the<br />

vegetables cool for about 15 minutes.<br />

Put one-third of the vegetables in a<br />

blender with 1 cup of the broth. Purée until<br />

very smooth, about 2 minutes. strain through<br />

a fine- or medium-mesh sieve set over a<br />

4-quart saucepan, using a silicone spatula<br />

to press all of the liquid through; discard any<br />

solids. repeat with the remaining vegetables<br />

(including any liquid from the pan) and broth<br />

in two more batches.<br />

stir in the cream and bring to a simmer<br />

over medium-low heat. stir in the vinegar and<br />

gently simmer for 5 minutes. season to taste<br />

with salt and cayenne. remove from the heat<br />

and let cool to warm or room temperature.<br />

When ready to serve, heat the remaining<br />

3 Tbs. oil in an 8-inch skillet over mediumhigh<br />

heat until shimmering hot. Add the<br />

capers and cook, stirring, until they begin to<br />

open like little flowers and become crispy and<br />

brown, about 30 seconds. Drain the capers<br />

in a small fine-mesh sieve set over a bowl.<br />

Transfer the capers to a paper towel–lined<br />

plate; reserve the oil.<br />

serve the soup drizzled with the reserved<br />

caper oil and garnished with the fried capers.<br />

fINecookING.com 41


summer greens and rice soup<br />

Lettuce in soup may seem a bit odd, but this Italian classic is delicate and ever-so-slightly<br />

sweet. Look for lettuce with good flavor and a sturdy texture—red oak or red leaf, or a mix<br />

of both, works well; mesclun mix will not do because it becomes stringy when cooked. If the<br />

chard at the market calls your name, feel free to substitute it for the spinach. Serves 6<br />

3 Tbs. extra­virgin olive oil;<br />

more for serving<br />

2 medium carrots, finely chopped<br />

1 large celery rib, finely chopped<br />

1 small red onion, finely chopped<br />

1 medium clove garlic, minced<br />

1 Tbs. minced fresh flat­leaf parsley<br />

1 medium Yukon Gold potato, peeled and<br />

cut into ½­inch pieces<br />

Kosher salt<br />

8 oz. mature spinach, trimmed<br />

and cut into ½­inch­thick<br />

strips (5 cups)<br />

5 oz. red oak or red leaf lettuce, cut into<br />

½­inch­thick strips (5 cups)<br />

5 oz. romaine lettuce, cut into ½­inch­thick<br />

strips (3 cups)<br />

8 cups Roasted Vegetable Broth<br />

(recipe, p. 41) or store­bought<br />

lower­salt vegetable or chicken broth<br />

¾ cup arborio rice<br />

1 2­inch piece Grana Padano or Parmigiano­<br />

Reggiano rind (optional)<br />

Freshly ground black pepper<br />

2 Tbs. chopped fresh basil<br />

Warm the oil in a 5-quart heavy-duty pot<br />

over medium-low heat. When it’s warm—<br />

not hot—add the carrots, celery, onion,<br />

garlic, and parsley. Cook, stirring often,<br />

until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes.<br />

Add the potato and cook, stirring<br />

often, until it has begun to soften, about<br />

5 minutes; turn the heat down if the vegetables<br />

begin to color.<br />

Season the vegetables with 1 tsp. salt,<br />

then stir in the greens by the handful—it<br />

will seem like a lot, but they will cook down.<br />

Cover the pot and cook over low heat until<br />

the greens have started to wilt, about<br />

3 minutes. Uncover and continue to cook,<br />

stirring occasionally, until the greens are<br />

completely wilted, about 3 minutes more.<br />

Turn the heat up to medium high and add<br />

the broth, rice, and cheese rind, if using.<br />

Bring the soup to a boil. Turn the heat down<br />

to maintain a simmer and cook, uncovered,<br />

until the rice is very tender and has begun to<br />

split, 20 to 25 minutes. Season to taste with<br />

salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and<br />

stir in the basil. Let cool to warm or room<br />

temperature.<br />

Serve the soup drizzled with extra-virgin<br />

olive oil.


farmers’ market minestrone<br />

The word minestrone means “big soup” in Italian, and that’s just what this is: a richly flavored,<br />

chunky vegetable-and-pasta soup. This version is in bianco, which is to say, white, or without<br />

tomato. Feel free to add a couple of diced peeled plum tomatoes, if you like. Serves 6<br />

¼ cup extra­virgin olive oil<br />

3 medium celery ribs, cut into<br />

¼­inch pieces<br />

2 medium carrots, cut into<br />

¼­inch pieces<br />

2 medium cloves garlic, minced<br />

1 medium red onion, cut into<br />

¼­inch pieces<br />

2 Tbs. minced fresh flat­leaf parsley<br />

1 small eggplant, cut into<br />

½­inch pieces<br />

1 large red potato, cut into<br />

½­inch pieces<br />

1 medium yellow squash, cut into<br />

½­inch pieces<br />

1 medium zucchini, cut into<br />

½­inch pieces<br />

Kosher salt and freshly ground<br />

black pepper<br />

Kernels from 1 ear fresh corn<br />

6 to 8 cups Roasted Vegetable<br />

Broth (recipe, p. 41) or storebought<br />

lower­salt vegetable or<br />

chicken broth<br />

1 cup dried tubetti or small<br />

pasta shells<br />

½ oz. (½ cup) finely grated Grana<br />

Padano or Parmigiano­Reggiano;<br />

more for serving<br />

¼ cup thinly sliced fresh basil<br />

Warm the oil in a 5-quart heavy-duty<br />

pot over medium-low heat. When it’s<br />

warm—not hot—add the celery, carrots,<br />

garlic, onion, and parsley. cook, stirring<br />

occasionally, until the onion is translucent<br />

and the carrots have begun to<br />

soften, about 10 minutes.<br />

stir in the eggplant, potato, yellow<br />

squash, zucchini, ½ tsp. salt, and a<br />

few grinds of pepper. cook, stirring<br />

often (the potato tends to stick to<br />

the bottom of the pot), until the<br />

vegetables are tender but still hold<br />

their shape, 15 to 20 minutes.<br />

Add the corn and 6 cups of the<br />

broth; bring to a boil. Turn the heat<br />

down to low, partially cover, and<br />

simmer gently for 10 minutes. return<br />

to a boil and stir in the pasta. simmer,<br />

stirring once or twice, until the pasta is<br />

al dente or even a little bit more tender;<br />

cooking time will depend on the shape<br />

and brand of pasta you use. Add more<br />

broth to thin the soup, if you like.<br />

season to taste with salt and pepper.<br />

remove from the heat and stir in the<br />

cheese and basil. Let cool to warm or<br />

room temperature before serving; the<br />

soup will thicken as it cools. serve with<br />

additional grated cheese at the table.<br />

fINecookING.com 43


Tropical<br />

Take backyard barbecue recipes to the<br />

bright and flavorful tropics.<br />

Bites & Sips<br />

when the weather’s warm, it’s time to take<br />

dinner outside. This summer, add flair to the<br />

picnic table with recipes that range from Jamaican<br />

rice and beans and Cuban slow-cooked pork to<br />

Hawaiian shrimp and Mexican fried plantains.<br />

Top off the menu with a batch of tasty rum-based<br />

cocktails and a refreshing fruit-filled dessert.<br />

grilled pork with mojo (lechon asado con mojo)<br />

This is the garlicky and grand centerpiece of Cuban celebrations.<br />

The pork needs at least 8 hours to marinate in the mojo<br />

and about that long to cook, but the results—unbelievably<br />

tender meat and crisp, crackly skin—are worth the wait.<br />

Serves 10<br />

FOR THE MOJO<br />

50 peeled cloves garlic<br />

5/8 oz. kosher salt (11/2 Tbs.<br />

Diamond Crystal or<br />

1 Tbs. Morton)<br />

1 Tbs. freshly cracked<br />

black pepper<br />

1 Tbs. dried oregano<br />

1/4 cup plus 2 Tbs. fresh orange<br />

juice (from 1 medium)<br />

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice<br />

(from 1 large)<br />

2 Tbs. fresh lime juice<br />

(from 1 small)<br />

FOR THE PORK<br />

1 6- to 8-lb. bone-in, skin-on<br />

pork shoulder<br />

1 medium red onion,<br />

thinly sliced<br />

2/3 cup olive oil<br />

1/3 cup fresh lemon juice<br />

(from 11/2 lemons)<br />

3 large lemons, cut into wedges<br />

Flaky sea salt, such as Maldon<br />

MAKE THE MOJO<br />

Combine the garlic, salt, pepper,<br />

and oregano in a food processor<br />

and pulse until finely chopped.<br />

Transfer to a medium bowl and<br />

whisk in the juices. Reserve 1/2 cup<br />

of the mojo and refrigerate until<br />

ready to serve.<br />

MARINATE AND GRILL THE PORK<br />

Use a paring knife to make<br />

20 deep slits all over the pork.<br />

Using your fingers, push the<br />

remaining mojo into the slits.<br />

Wrap the pork well in plastic wrap,<br />

place skin side up on a rimmed<br />

baking sheet or platter, and<br />

refrigerate for at least 8 and up<br />

to 24 hours.<br />

Let the pork sit at room temperature<br />

for 1 hour before cooking.<br />

Meanwhile, set up a charcoal<br />

or gas grill for indirect cooking<br />

between 325°F and 350°F; if<br />

using a charcoal grill, bank the lit,<br />

ashed-over coals to one side of<br />

the grill. Cover the grill, and adjust<br />

the vents as needed to reach<br />

the temperature range. For a gas<br />

grill, cover the grill, turn off one or<br />

more of the burners, and adjust<br />

the active burner(s) to reach the<br />

temperature range.<br />

Pat the pork skin dry with<br />

paper towels. Put the pork, skin<br />

side up, on the cooler part of the<br />

grill and cook, rotating (but not<br />

flipping) every couple of hours,<br />

until the skin is crisp and an<br />

instant-read thermometer registers<br />

190°F to 200°F in the center<br />

of the pork, 6 to 8 hours.<br />

Toward the end of the pork’s<br />

cooking, combine the reserved<br />

1/2 cup mojo, the onion, olive oil,<br />

and lemon juice in a 2-quart<br />

saucepan. Cook, stirring often,<br />

over medium-low heat, until the<br />

onion softens and the flavors<br />

meld, about 8 minutes. (The<br />

mojo can sit at room temperature<br />

for a few hours.)<br />

SERVE the pork<br />

Transfer the pork to a cutting<br />

board. Remove the skin. Tent<br />

just the pork with foil and let sit<br />

for up to an hour before serving.<br />

Scrape off and discard the soft<br />

fat underneath the skin, then cut<br />

the crispy part (the crackling)<br />

into bite-size pieces. Transfer<br />

to a small platter, add a few<br />

lemon wedges, and serve the<br />

chicharrones (cracklings) as an<br />

appetizer.<br />

Meanwhile, use your hands<br />

to break the meat into chunks<br />

and transfer to a large bowl. Pour<br />

about 1/3 cup of the mojo over it<br />

and toss to coat. Transfer to a<br />

large platter along with the<br />

remaining lemon wedges.<br />

Sprinkle with the sea salt and<br />

serve, passing the remaining<br />

mojo around the table with it.<br />

44 cookfresh summer 2017


finecooking.com 45


hemingway special<br />

Created for the daiquiri-loving expat Ernest<br />

Hemingway at El Floridita in Havana, this cocktail<br />

(also called a Papa Doble) was originally made<br />

without any sugar and with twice the rum. This<br />

version offers a little sweetness, by rimming the<br />

glass with turbinado sugar. Serves 1<br />

2 Tbs. turbinado (“raw”) sugar<br />

2 oz. white rum, preferably Havana Club Añejo 3 años<br />

¾ oz. (11/2 Tbs.) fresh lime juice<br />

1/2 oz. (1 Tbs.) fresh grapefruit juice<br />

1/2 oz. (1 Tbs.) maraschino liqueur<br />

1 maraschino cherry, for garnish<br />

1 grapefruit zest curl, for garnish<br />

Wet the rim of a cocktail glass in a little water and then dip<br />

the rim into a small dish containing the sugar. Place the<br />

glass in the freezer until ready to use.<br />

Fill a cocktail shaker with ice and add the rum, lime and<br />

grapefruit juices, and maraschino liqueur. Put the lid on<br />

the shaker, making sure it has a good seal. Shake vigorously<br />

until frothy, at least 30 seconds. Strain into the prepared<br />

glass. Garnish with the cherry and zest.<br />

grilled mojo-marinated<br />

flank steak<br />

Mojos are boldly seasoned Latin American<br />

vinaigrette-type sauces. This one is good on<br />

chicken as well as on flank steak. Thick slices<br />

of grilled Bermuda onion make a tasty<br />

accompaniment. Serves 4 to 6<br />

For the mojo<br />

12 cloves garlic (or 4 Tbs. minced garlic)<br />

2 fresh habaneros or other spicy<br />

chiles, cored, seeded, and minced<br />

(wear gloves to prevent irritation)<br />

4 tsp. whole cumin seeds, toasted<br />

Kosher salt<br />

1 cup olive oil<br />

1/3 cup fresh lime juice<br />

1/3 cup fresh orange juice<br />

11/2 Tbs. sherry vinegar<br />

Freshly ground black pepper<br />

For the steak<br />

1 11/2-lb. flank steak<br />

Kosher salt and freshly<br />

ground black pepper<br />

Make the mojo<br />

Mash the raw garlic, chiles, cumin, and 1 tsp. salt in a<br />

mortar and pestle until fairly smooth. (Alternatively, use<br />

a food processor, pulsing until the ingredients are finely<br />

chopped but not puréed.) Scrape the mixture into a bowl<br />

and set aside.<br />

Heat the olive oil until fairly hot but not smoking, and<br />

pour it over the garlic-chile mixture (the oil should sizzle<br />

when it hits the cool ingredients), stir, and let stand for<br />

10 minutes. This will cook the garlic slightly. Whisk in the<br />

lime juice, orange juice, and vinegar. Season with salt and<br />

black pepper and set aside to cool completely.<br />

Put the steak in a zip-top bag or a shallow bowl and pour<br />

in 1 cup of the cooled mojo. Seal and refrigerate for at least<br />

2 hours or overnight, turning occasionally. Refrigerate the<br />

remaining 1 cup mojo.<br />

Grill and serve<br />

Heat a gas grill to medium high or prepare a medium-hot<br />

charcoal fire. When the grill is ready, remove the steak<br />

from the marinade (discard the marinade), pat dry, and<br />

season with salt and black pepper; grill for 5 to 7 minutes<br />

on one side and 3 to 4 minutes on the other for medium<br />

rare. Remove from the grill and let rest for 5 minutes.<br />

Meanwhile, warm the reserved mojo over low heat. Slice<br />

the flank steak very thinly on the bias and serve with the<br />

reserved mojo.<br />

46 cookfresh summer 2017


island-spiced chicken<br />

salad with mango<br />

and scallions<br />

Cinnamon and allspice give the chicken<br />

a little Jamaican jerk flavor, while diced<br />

mangos add to the Caribbean vibe. This<br />

recipe makes plenty; leftovers taste<br />

great in a tortilla for an easy lunch.<br />

Serves 6<br />

1/2 tsp. ground allspice<br />

1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon<br />

Heaping 1/4 tsp. chipotle powder<br />

Kosher salt and freshly ground<br />

black pepper<br />

2 lb. boneless, skinless chicken thighs<br />

(about 8), trimmed of fatty patches<br />

2 Anaheim or poblano chiles, halved,<br />

cored, and seeded<br />

6 scallions (both white and green<br />

parts), trimmed<br />

3 Tbs. canola or peanut oil<br />

2 ripe mangos (about 11/2 lb.), pitted<br />

and cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 2 cups)<br />

1 Tbs. fresh lime juice; more to taste<br />

1 head butter lettuce, for serving<br />

(optional)<br />

For a gas grill, light the front burner to medium<br />

high and the back burner(s) to medium. For<br />

a charcoal grill, light a medium-high fire with<br />

two-thirds of the coals banked to one side.<br />

Clean and oil the grill grates.<br />

In a small bowl, mix the allspice, cinnamon,<br />

and chi potle powder, 11/2 tsp. salt, and 1 tsp.<br />

pepper. Rub the mix all over the chicken.<br />

Sprinkle the chiles and scallions with 1 Tbs. oil<br />

and 1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper.<br />

Set the chicken over the hot zone of the<br />

fire and the chiles and scallions over the<br />

cooler zone. Grill until the chicken, peppers,<br />

and scallions have good grill marks, 3 to<br />

4 minutes. Continue to grill the peppers and<br />

scallions until they brown and become just<br />

tender, about another 3 minutes. Grill the<br />

chicken, flipping as needed, until it is firm to<br />

the touch and cooked through (slice into a<br />

thicker piece of the chicken with a knife to<br />

check), another 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer the<br />

chicken and vegetables to a large cutting<br />

board to cool. Coarsely chop the chicken,<br />

peppers, and scallions.<br />

In a large serving bowl, toss the mango with<br />

the chicken, peppers, and scallions. Add the<br />

lime juice and the remaining 2 Tbs. oil and toss<br />

well. Season with more lime juice, salt, and<br />

pepper if needed. Serve immediately, in bowls<br />

lined with lettuce (if using).<br />

48 cookfresh summer 2017


chi chi pache<br />

Created by Martin Cate of Smuggler’s<br />

Cove in San Francisco, this drink is reminiscent<br />

of a creamy piña colada with a<br />

hint of spice. Serves 1<br />

2 fl. oz. (4 Tbs.) vodka<br />

11/2 fl. oz. (3 Tbs.) 100% pineapple juice,<br />

not from concentrate<br />

1 fl. oz. (2 Tbs.) coconut cream,<br />

preferably Coco Lopez<br />

1 tsp. pimento dram, preferably<br />

St. Elizabeth Allspice Dram<br />

1 dash Angostura bitters<br />

1 cinnamon stick<br />

Pour the vodka, pineapple juice, coconut<br />

cream, pimento dram, and bitters into an<br />

18- to 20-oz. cocktail shaker filled with ice.<br />

Shake lightly and strain into an 8- to 11-oz. Collins<br />

glass filled with moreice. With a nutmeg<br />

grater, grate a little of the cinnamon stick over<br />

the drink. Garnish with the cinnamon stick.<br />

rum-glazed pork skewers<br />

with coconut rice<br />

A Caribbean-accented spice rub and glaze boost the flavor of<br />

quick-cooking pork tenderloin. Rice cooked with coconut milk adds<br />

to the tropical feel of the dish. Serves 4<br />

3 Tbs. unsalted butter<br />

1 Tbs. minced fresh ginger<br />

1 cup jasmine rice<br />

¾ cup well-shaken unsweetened<br />

coconut milk<br />

Kosher salt<br />

1/3 cup dark rum<br />

3 Tbs. packed dark brown sugar<br />

2 medium limes, finely grated to<br />

yield 1 tsp. zest and squeezed to<br />

yield 1/4 cup juice<br />

2 Tbs. vegetable oil; more<br />

as needed<br />

1 tsp. ground allspice<br />

1/8 tsp. ground cayenne<br />

Freshly ground black pepper<br />

1 1- to 11/4-lb. pork tenderloin, cut<br />

into 1-inch cubes<br />

1 medium red bell pepper, cut into<br />

1-inch squares<br />

1 red onion, cut into 1-inch pieces<br />

Lime wedges for serving<br />

(optional)<br />

Melt 1 Tbs. of the butter in a 2-quart<br />

saucepan over medium heat. Add<br />

the ginger and cook, stirring, until<br />

fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the<br />

rice and stir until well coated. Add<br />

the coconut milk, 11/2 cups water, and<br />

¾ tsp. salt; bring to a simmer. Reduce<br />

the heat to low, cover, and cook<br />

until the liquid is absorbed, about<br />

15 minutes. Fluff with a fork, cover,<br />

and set aside.<br />

Meanwhile, combine the rum,<br />

brown sugar, 2 Tbs. of the lime juice,<br />

and the remaining 2 Tbs. butter in a<br />

1-quart saucepan. Bring to a simmer<br />

over medium heat and cook until<br />

syrupy, about 5 minutes. Stir in 1/8 tsp.<br />

salt and remove from the heat.<br />

In a medium bowl, combine the<br />

remaining 2 Tbs. lime juice with<br />

the oil, allspice, cayenne, 11/2 tsp.<br />

salt, and 1/2 tsp. black pepper. Add<br />

the pork and toss to coat. Thread<br />

the pork, bell pepper, and onions<br />

onto four 12-inch metal skewers,<br />

alternating the meat and vegetables.<br />

Prepare a medium-high (400°F)<br />

gas or charcoal grill fire or heat a<br />

large grill pan over medium-high<br />

heat. Oil the grate or pan. Grill the<br />

skewers until seared on all sides,<br />

about 4 minutes total. Brush the<br />

skewers with the glaze and grill,<br />

turning occasionally, until the pork<br />

is browned on the outside but<br />

still slightly pink in the center, 2 to<br />

4 minutes more.<br />

Add the zest to the rice and<br />

fluff. Brush the skewers with any<br />

additional glaze and serve with the<br />

rice and lime wedges, if you like.<br />

finecooking.com 49


jamaican rice and peas<br />

This is really a rice and beans dish, but in Jamaica,<br />

beans are called peas. Serves 8 to 10<br />

2 cloves garlic, smashed<br />

1 1/2-inch piece ginger, unpeeled, crushed<br />

with a mallet or the side of a knife<br />

10 whole allspice berries<br />

5 oz. (¾ cup) dried red kidney beans,<br />

picked over and rinsed<br />

1 can (about 14 oz.) coconut milk<br />

11/2 tsp. kosher salt<br />

1 tsp. cracked black peppercorns<br />

2 sprigs fresh thyme<br />

1 scallion, root trimmed<br />

2 cups raw long-grain rice<br />

1 fresh Scotch bonnet chile or habanero<br />

Tie the garlic, ginger, and allspice berries in a<br />

small cheesecloth pouch. In a 3-quart ovenproof<br />

pot, combine the pouch, beans, coconut<br />

milk, and 3 cups water. Bring to a boil, reduce to<br />

a simmer, and cook until the beans are soft,<br />

11/4 to 2 hours. If necessary, add more water<br />

during cooking to keep the beans covered.<br />

Heat the oven to 350°F. Add the salt,<br />

pepper, thyme, and scallion to the beans. Add<br />

the rice and enough water to cover the rice by<br />

about 1 inch (about 2 cups). Bring to a boil and<br />

add the whole chile; don't break, crack, or cut<br />

the chile.<br />

Cover and bake until the liquid is absorbed<br />

and the rice is tender, about 25 minutes.<br />

Remove the chile, thyme sprigs, scallion, and<br />

ginger-garlic pouch before serving.<br />

lift-off<br />

Made with falernum, a syrup<br />

spiced with ginger and clove,<br />

this drink has a remarkably<br />

flavorful boost. Serves 1<br />

11/2 fl. oz. (3 Tbs.) dark Jamaican<br />

rum, preferably Appleton<br />

Estate Extra<br />

¾ fl oz. (11/2 Tbs.) 151-proof rum,<br />

preferably Lemon Hart<br />

Demerara<br />

1/2 fl. oz. (1 Tbs.) fresh lime juice<br />

(save the juiced lime skin<br />

for garnish)<br />

1/2 fl. oz. (1 Tbs.) fresh orange juice<br />

1/2 fl. oz. (1 Tbs.) cinnamon syrup,<br />

preferably Trader Tiki’s<br />

1/4 fl. oz. (1/2 Tbs.) falernum,<br />

preferably Fee Brothers<br />

1 dash Angostura bitters<br />

Combine the rums, lime and orange<br />

juices, cinnamon syrup, falernum,<br />

and bitters in a 12-oz. glass with 1 cup<br />

of crushed ice.<br />

50 cookfresh summer 2017


spicy papaya salad<br />

This savory fruit salad is great with chicken, fish, or roast pork.<br />

The optional allspice is a nod to its Jamaican inspiration.<br />

Serves 6<br />

1 medium (3- to 4-lb.)<br />

ripe papaya<br />

1/2 small red onion, very thinly<br />

sliced (¾ cup)<br />

1/4 cup coarsely chopped<br />

fresh cilantro<br />

2 Tbs. fresh lime juice<br />

1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil<br />

1 tsp. freshly grated ginger<br />

1/2 to 1 tsp. minced fresh Thai<br />

bird or habanero chile<br />

1/8 tsp. ground allspice<br />

(optional)<br />

1/2 tsp. kosher salt<br />

Cut the papaya in half lengthwise.<br />

Using a spoon, scoop out and<br />

discard the seeds. Cut each half<br />

lengthwise into ¾-inch strips.<br />

Using a sharp paring knife, peel<br />

the strips, removing the skin as<br />

well as all the firm, lighter-colored<br />

flesh next to it. Cut the fruit crosswise<br />

into ¾-inch chunks and put<br />

in a large bowl.<br />

Add the remaining ingredients<br />

and toss to combine. Let sit for<br />

10 minutes at room temperature<br />

to meld the flavors, and serve.<br />

hawaiian garlic shrimp<br />

Inspired by the garlic shrimp served from<br />

food trucks along Oahu’s North Shore, this<br />

buttery shrimp is classically paired with “two<br />

scoops rice,” as they say there. Serves 4<br />

31/2 oz. (¾ cup) all-purpose flour<br />

11/2 tsp. sweet paprika<br />

Kosher salt<br />

1 lb. extra-jumbo shrimp (16 to 20 per lb.),<br />

peeled, deveined, and patted dry<br />

3 Tbs. grapeseed or canola oil<br />

8 large cloves garlic, coarsely chopped<br />

(about 1/4 cup)<br />

1/2 cup sake or dry white wine<br />

11/2 oz. (3 Tbs.) cold unsalted butter,<br />

cut into 3 pieces<br />

1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro<br />

1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice<br />

In a shallow bowl, combine the flour, paprika, and<br />

11/2 tsp. salt. Lightly dredge the shrimp in the mixture,<br />

shaking off the excess; set aside.<br />

Heat a heavy-duty 12-inch skillet over mediumlow<br />

heat. Add the oil, garlic, and a pinch of salt.<br />

Cook, stirring, until the garlic is tender, about<br />

2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove and<br />

reserve the garlic, leaving the oil in the pan.<br />

Turn the heat up to medium high and add the<br />

shrimp in a single layer. Cook undisturbed for<br />

2 minutes, then flip and cook until nearly opaque<br />

in the center, 1 to 2 minutes more. Add the sake<br />

and 1/2 tsp. salt and cook, flipping the shrimp once,<br />

until the liquid is reduced by half, about 3 minutes.<br />

Add the butter and the reserved garlic, and cook,<br />

swirling the pan, until the sauce is emulsified.<br />

Remove from the heat, add the cilantro and lemon<br />

juice, and toss to combine. Season to taste with<br />

salt and serve.<br />

finecooking.com 51


cream cheese and guava swirl ice cream<br />

Guava and cream cheese is a classic<br />

Cuban combination. Guava’s pearstrawberry<br />

personality pairs so well with<br />

the tangy cheese that it’s easy to see<br />

why. Here, the cream cheese is used to<br />

make a rich ice cream that gets swirled<br />

with guava purée for a dessert few can<br />

resist. Serves 10<br />

8 oz. cream cheese, softened<br />

¾ cup granulated sugar<br />

1 cup cold sour cream<br />

1 cup cold heavy cream<br />

2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice<br />

1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract<br />

Pinch of kosher salt<br />

6 oz. (about 1/2 cup) guava paste,<br />

cut into 1/2-inch slices, or guava jelly,<br />

preferably Goya brand (see p. 93)<br />

Cones for serving, if you like<br />

Beat the cream cheese with an electric<br />

mixer on medium speed until smooth, about<br />

2 minutes. Add the sugar 1/4 cup at a time,<br />

beating well after each addition. Add the sour<br />

cream, heavy cream, lemon juice, vanilla, and<br />

salt and beat just until smooth. Cover with<br />

plastic wrap and refrigerate until very cold,<br />

about 1 hour.<br />

Meanwhile, cook the guava paste or jelly<br />

and 1/2 cup water in an 8-inch skillet over<br />

medium-low heat, mashing with a fork or<br />

potato masher, until mostly melted with<br />

some smaller chunks, about 6 minutes.<br />

Transfer to a bowl and chill in the refrigerator<br />

until cooled but still pourable, about 1 hour.<br />

(If it does solidify, reheat and rechill.)<br />

Whisk the cream cheese mixture to<br />

loosen it, then freeze in an ice cream maker<br />

according to the manufacturer’s directions<br />

until slightly thicker than soft-serve ice<br />

cream, about 15 minutes. Transfer to a<br />

freezer storage container. Using a wide<br />

spatula, gently fold in the guava to create<br />

ribbons throughout. Freeze until ready<br />

to serve.<br />

52 cookfresh summer 2017


strawberry mojito<br />

A mojito is traditionally made with white rum, muddled mint and lime juice,<br />

and seltzer. Strawberries make this cocktail both sweeter and more tart—a<br />

nice match for bold amber rum or more subtle white rum. Serves 4<br />

11 oz. strawberries, hulled (2¾ cups)<br />

1/3 cup fresh lime juice<br />

1/4 cup granulated sugar<br />

10 large fresh mint leaves<br />

1 cup white or amber rum<br />

1 cup seltzer<br />

Mint sprigs, lime wedges, or fresh<br />

strawberries, to garnish<br />

and crush with a muddler or wooden<br />

spoon until the sugar is dissolved, about<br />

1 minute. Add the rum and stir gently.<br />

Fill 4 rocks glasses three-quarters full<br />

with ice, divide the mojito among them,<br />

and top each with about 1/4 cup seltzer.<br />

Garnish with mint sprigs, lime wedges, or<br />

strawberries.<br />

In a medium pitcher, combine the strawberries,<br />

lime juice, sugar, and mint leaves<br />

plátanos maduros fritos<br />

Sliced ripe plantains retain a sweet,<br />

creamy center and become caramelized<br />

around the edges when fried. This<br />

tasty side dish makes a good accompaniment<br />

to rice and beans, roasted pork,<br />

or both. Serves 6 to 8<br />

Vegetable or canola oil<br />

4 very ripe, dark brown plantains (2 lb.),<br />

ends removed, peeled, and sliced 1/2 inch<br />

thick on a sharp diagonal<br />

Fill a 12-inch heavy-duty skillet with 1/4 inch of<br />

oil (about 11/2 cups) and heat over medium<br />

heat until the tip of a plantain slice dipped in<br />

the oil sizzles vigorously.<br />

Working in batches of about 12, slide<br />

the plantain slices in one at a time, making<br />

sure they’re not touching. Fry, flipping once<br />

with tongs or a fork, until golden brown on<br />

both sides, 4 to 6 minutes total. Transfer<br />

to a paper towel–lined plate. Repeat with<br />

the remaining plantains, reheating the oil<br />

as needed between batches. Serve hot.<br />

finecooking.com 53


Spelt Salad with Cherry Tomatoes and Zucchini<br />

Dressing: red-wine vinegar<br />

Add-ins: cherry tomatoes, zucchini, scallions, basil, oregano<br />

Millet Salad with Avocado and Citrus<br />

Dressing: grapefruit juice, white-wine vinegar, honey<br />

Add-ins: avocados, oranges, grapefruit, red onion, mint<br />

The New<br />

Summer Side<br />

Make-ahead and endlessly versatile, grain salad just might be the perfect potluck dish.<br />

Basmati Rice Salad with Mango and Cucumber<br />

Dressing: rice vinegar, sesame oil, ginger<br />

Add-ins: mango, cucumbers, scallions, cilantro<br />

Bulgur Salad with Carrots and Peppers<br />

Dressing: lemon juice, tahini<br />

Add-ins: carrots, red bell peppers, cucumbers, feta, parsley, dill<br />

54 cookfresh summer 2017


Farro Salad with Artichokes and Fennel<br />

Dressing: red-wine vinegar, lemon zest, black olives<br />

Add-ins: artichokes, fennel, radicchio, cannellini beans, pine nuts, basil<br />

Brown Rice Salad with Apples and Cheddar<br />

Dressing: cider vinegar<br />

Add-ins: apples, grapes, celery, lentils, Cheddar, almonds, parsley<br />

say you’re going to a summer potluck,<br />

picnic, or barbecue. What do you bring? One sure-toplease<br />

answer is a grain salad. Not only can it be made<br />

completely ahead, but it also holds up beautifully and<br />

tastes even better the next day. Plus, it’s easy to customize<br />

because the flavor combinations are virtually endless;<br />

grains are like a blank canvas, so they go well with<br />

just about any ingredient. And best of all, the method<br />

couldn’t be simpler.<br />

To start, cook your grain of choice (find out how on<br />

p. 56). You can choose a familiar one, like rice or barley,<br />

or try something more unusual, like farro or spelt. Next,<br />

whisk together a vinaigrette, which is easy to vary with<br />

your choice of vinegar, citrus juice, or aromatics. Finally,<br />

prep your favorite add-in ingredients. Fresh vegetables<br />

or fruits and herbs are essential, but you can also experiment<br />

with cheeses, dried fruits, beans, and nuts. Toss it<br />

all together, and you’ve got a salad that’s delicious and<br />

healthful—an ideal contribution to any summer meal.<br />

Barley Salad with Peas and Asparagus<br />

Dressing: lemon juice, lemon zest<br />

Add-ins: English peas, sugar snap peas, asparagus, dill, mint<br />

Quinoa Salad with Pears and Dried Cherries<br />

Dressing: Champagne vinegar, honey<br />

Add-ins: pears, dried cherries, goat cheese, walnuts, tarragon


cooking without recipes<br />

summer grain salad<br />

If you can, make your salad in advance—even up to a day before serving—to give the flavors time to meld. Take the salad out<br />

of the refrigerator 30 to 45 minutes before serving so that it’s not ice cold. It’s best just slightly chilled or at room temperature.<br />

Taste and adjust the seasoning before serving to be sure the salad is flavorful and bright. Serves 8 to 10<br />

step 1<br />

cook the grains<br />

The cooking method will vary, depending on the grain you choose. For farro,<br />

rice, quinoa, barley, or millet, you boil the grain until tender, while wheat<br />

berries and spelt need soaking before cooking. For bulgur, just pour boiling<br />

water over the grain and let it sit until the water is absorbed. (See below<br />

for details.)<br />

Grain of choice<br />

Kosher salt<br />

1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil<br />

If using wheat berries or spelt, soak them<br />

for 10 to 18 hours in a bowl of cold water<br />

and drain before cooking.<br />

If using bulgur, pour 31/2 cups boiling<br />

water over the bulgur in a medium bowl,<br />

stir, and let sit until the water is absorbed<br />

and the bulgur is tender, 20 to 25 minutes<br />

(do not cook further).<br />

For all other grains, rinse under cold<br />

water and drain before cooking.<br />

Bring 7 cups of water to a boil in a<br />

4-quart pot over high heat. Add ¾ tsp.<br />

salt. Add the grain, reduce the heat to<br />

a simmer, and cook uncovered, stirring<br />

occasionally and adding more boiling<br />

water as necessary to keep the grain<br />

covered, until tender (see below for<br />

cooking times).<br />

Drain and rinse the grain with cold<br />

water to stop the cooking. Transfer the<br />

grain to a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet,<br />

drizzle with the oil, and toss lightly to<br />

coat. Spread the grain on the baking<br />

sheet and cool completely at room<br />

temperature or in the refrigerator.<br />

Grains<br />

Choose one (quantities yield 6 cups cooked)<br />

Pearled barley<br />

13/4 cups; cook 30 to<br />

45 minutes<br />

Wheat berries<br />

21/4 cups; soak; cook 1 to<br />

11/2 hours<br />

Basmati rice<br />

21/2 cups; cook 10 to<br />

15 minutes<br />

Semi-pearled farro<br />

3 cups; cook 30 to<br />

35 minutes<br />

Brown rice<br />

21/2 cups; cook 20 to<br />

25 minutes<br />

Spelt<br />

3 cups; soak; cook<br />

45 to 60 minutes<br />

After cooking the grains,<br />

spread them on a large baking<br />

sheet and toss them with oil<br />

to keep them from sticking<br />

together.<br />

Quinoa<br />

2 cups; cook 15 to<br />

20 minutes<br />

Medium-grind bulgur<br />

21/4 cups<br />

Millet<br />

13/4 cups; cook 15 to<br />

20 minutes<br />

56 cookfresh summer 2017


step 2<br />

make a vinaigrette<br />

The vinaigrette should have an<br />

assertive flavor that doesn’t get lost<br />

when mixed with the grains, so once<br />

you’ve made it, taste and adjust the<br />

seasoning with salt and more vinegar<br />

or citrus juice.<br />

1/3 cup vinegar or citrus juice of choice<br />

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil<br />

Aromatics and flavor boosters<br />

of choice<br />

Salt and freshly ground black pepper<br />

Put the vinegar and/or citrus juice in a<br />

small bowl and gradually whisk in the oil.<br />

Whisk in the aromatics and/or flavor<br />

boosters (if using). Taste and season with<br />

salt, pepper, and additional vinegar, citrus<br />

juice, or oil as needed.<br />

Vinegars and Citrus Juice<br />

Choose one or two (1/3 cup total)<br />

Aromatics and Flavor Boosters (optional)<br />

Choose one or two<br />

Red-wine vinegar<br />

Balsamic vinegar<br />

Black or green olives,<br />

pitted and chopped, 1/2 cup<br />

Honey<br />

2 to 3 tsp.<br />

Asian sesame oil<br />

1 Tbs.<br />

Champagne vinegar<br />

White-wine vinegar<br />

Roasted walnut or other<br />

roasted nut oil<br />

1 to 2 Tbs.<br />

Tahini<br />

2 to 3 Tbs.<br />

Soy sauce<br />

1 to 2 Tbs.<br />

Plain rice vinegar<br />

Sherry vinegar<br />

Capers or chopped<br />

caper berries<br />

up to 1/4 cup<br />

Jalapeño,<br />

minced, up to 1 whole<br />

Orange, lemon, lime,<br />

or grapefruit zest,<br />

finely grated, 1 to 2 tsp.<br />

Cider vinegar<br />

Lemon, lime, or grapefruit<br />

juice<br />

Mustard<br />

up to 1 Tbs.<br />

Anchovies,<br />

minced, 2 to 3<br />

Fresh ginger,<br />

finely grated, up to 2 Tbs.<br />

Whisking in small<br />

amounts of boldly<br />

flavored add-ins,<br />

like roasted walnut<br />

oil, boosts the vinaigrette’s<br />

flavor.


cooking without recipes<br />

STEP 3<br />

choose and prep your add-ins<br />

Vegetables or fruit (or both) and herbs are a must in these grain salads. Pair flavors that<br />

sound good to you, making sure to include a variety of textures and colors to give your salad<br />

interest. Then feel free to add optional dried fruit, cheese, nuts and seeds, or beans.<br />

Fresh Vegetables and Fruit<br />

choose up to four (2 to 3 cups total)<br />

Peaches, nectarines<br />

or mango,<br />

peeled, pitted, and<br />

cut into medium dice<br />

Avocado,<br />

pitted, peeled, and cut into<br />

medium dice<br />

Seedless grapes,<br />

halved<br />

Oil-packed<br />

artichoke hearts,<br />

cut into 1/2-inch wedges<br />

Apples or pears,<br />

cored and cut into medium<br />

dice or thin slices<br />

Radicchio,<br />

shredded<br />

Golden beets,<br />

roasted until tender, peeled,<br />

cut into medium dice or<br />

1/4-inch-thick rounds if small<br />

Asparagus,<br />

steamed or grilled until<br />

crisp-tender, cut into<br />

1-inch pieces<br />

Fennel,<br />

trimmed and cut into<br />

1/2-inch pieces<br />

Broccoli or cauliflower,<br />

cut into 1-inch florets,<br />

steamed until<br />

crisp-tender<br />

Carrots,<br />

cut on the diagonal into<br />

1/4-inch-thick slices,<br />

steamed until crisp-tender<br />

Brussels sprouts,<br />

quartered, steamed until<br />

crisp-tender<br />

Celery,<br />

cut on the diagonal into<br />

1/4-inch-thick slices<br />

Corn kernels,<br />

blanched if fresh,<br />

thawed if frozen<br />

Cucumbers,<br />

peeled, seeded, and cut<br />

into medium dice<br />

Grapefruit or orange<br />

segments,<br />

cut into pieces if large<br />

Green beans,<br />

cut into 1-inch pieces,<br />

steamed until crisp-tender<br />

Red onion,<br />

cut into small dice<br />

Scallions,<br />

thinly sliced diagonally<br />

Cherry tomatoes,<br />

halved<br />

English peas,<br />

blanched if fresh,<br />

thawed if frozen<br />

Red, green, or yellow<br />

bell peppers,<br />

cut into medium dice<br />

Sugar snap peas,<br />

halved on the diagonal,<br />

steamed until crisp-tender<br />

Radishes,<br />

halved and<br />

thinly sliced<br />

Summer squash or zucchini,<br />

cut into medium dice or<br />

1/4-inch-thick half-rounds<br />

Optional<br />

Add-Ins<br />

choose one to three<br />

Dried fruit<br />

(cranberries, raisins,<br />

chopped apricots or cherries,<br />

thinly sliced figs, etc.),<br />

up to 1/2 cup total<br />

Cheese<br />

(crumbled feta, blue,<br />

or goat cheese, grated<br />

Grana Padano, diced Cheddar,<br />

etc.), up to 1 cup total<br />

Toasted nuts and seeds<br />

(pine nuts, pumpkin seeds,<br />

chopped walnuts or<br />

almonds, etc.),<br />

up to 3/4 cup total<br />

Cooked beans<br />

(chickpeas, cannellini<br />

beans, lentils, kidney<br />

beans, black beans, etc.),<br />

up to 1 cup total<br />

58 cookfresh summer 2017


Fresh Herbs<br />

Choose one to three (up to 1/4 cup total)<br />

step 4<br />

dress and season<br />

Be sure to add enough vinaigrette when tossing your salad.<br />

An underdressed grain salad will be dry and short on flavor.<br />

Put the cooked and cooled grains in a large serving bowl and toss to break<br />

up any clumps. Add the add-ins and 1/2 cup vinaigrette and toss. Taste and<br />

season as needed with more vinaigrette, salt, and pepper. Serve or refrigerate<br />

for up to 1 day (let sit at room temperature so it’s not refrigeratorcold<br />

and season with more vinaigrette, salt, and pepper before serving).<br />

Chives,<br />

thinly sliced<br />

Dill,<br />

chopped<br />

Wheat Berry Salad with Green Beans and Corn<br />

Dressing: sherry vinegar, roasted walnut oil<br />

Add-ins: green beans, corn, golden beets, chives, blue cheese<br />

Flat-leaf parsley,<br />

chopped<br />

Marjoram,<br />

chopped, up to 1 Tbs.<br />

Basil,<br />

chopped<br />

Savory,<br />

chopped<br />

Oregano,<br />

chopped, up to 1 Tbs.<br />

Mint,<br />

chopped<br />

Cilantro,<br />

leaves and stems,<br />

chopped<br />

Tarragon,<br />

chopped,<br />

up to 1 Tbs.<br />

If you make your<br />

salad ahead, reserve<br />

some of the dressing<br />

so you can use it to<br />

fine-tune the salad’s<br />

flavor before serving.<br />

finecooking.com 59


a simple<br />

summertime<br />

supper<br />

Juicy grilled steak, fresh summer salads, and a homey<br />

berry buttermilk cake star in this easy outdoor menu.<br />

this summer, entertaining will be a breeze<br />

when you can count on this graceful and<br />

tempting meal. The menu relies on quality<br />

and fresh ingredients and can largely be<br />

made ahead.<br />

The meal starts with a no-fuss hors<br />

d’oeuvre of richly flavored olive oil–fried<br />

almonds. They can be made days in advance<br />

and store extremely well.<br />

You’ll light the grill for the main course,<br />

a juicy, flavor-packed (and extremely quickcooking)<br />

skirt steak. A simple marinade of<br />

fresh herbs and olive oil bring this rustic cut<br />

to life. Top the steaks with a zesty salsa verde.<br />

The steaks will be served alongside a fresh<br />

tomato and olive salad and a very simple<br />

green salad of romaine leaves with a bright<br />

lemon vinaigrette and cheese.<br />

The berry butter milk cake for dessert is<br />

a dream and actually tastes best baked a<br />

day in advance. The vanilla-scented crème<br />

fraîche lends the perfect contrast to the<br />

moist, berry-sweetened cake—though the<br />

cake is great without the crème fraîche, too.<br />

It’s the perfect ending to a simply delicious<br />

summertime meal.<br />

60 cookfresh summer 2017


menu<br />

Serves 6<br />

Olive Oil–Fried<br />

Almonds<br />

Herb-Marinated Skirt<br />

Steaks with Pesto-<br />

Style Salsa Verde<br />

Sun-Ripened Tomato<br />

and Olive Salad<br />

Romaine Hearts with<br />

Lemon Vinaigrette<br />

Berry Buttermilk Cake<br />

with Vanilla-Scented<br />

Crème Fraîche<br />

finecooking.com 61


olive oil–fried almonds<br />

The almonds and herbs are crisp, salty, and<br />

sure to whet your appetite. Canned cocktail<br />

nuts don’t hold a candle to these. Yields 2 cups<br />

2 cups blanched almonds<br />

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil<br />

8 large fresh sage leaves<br />

2 Tbs. fresh rosemary leaves<br />

1 Tbs. fresh thyme leaves<br />

1 tsp. sea salt<br />

Set a metal strainer over a large heatproof bowl to<br />

quickly drain the almonds at the end of cooking. Put<br />

the almonds and olive oil in a 3- or 4-quart saucepan<br />

with a lid (the nuts and oil should fill no more than<br />

one-third of the pot). Set the pot over medium heat,<br />

stirring almost constantly until the almonds are lightly<br />

golden, 3 to 10 minutes, depending on your stove<br />

and pot. Toss in the sage, rosemary, and thyme simultaneously<br />

and cover the pot immediately with the lid<br />

to prevent the oil from spattering. Remove the pot<br />

from the heat. The herbs will make a popping sound<br />

as they cook.<br />

After the popping dies down, remove the lid and<br />

immediately pour the almonds into the strainer.<br />

Spread the drained almonds on a rimmed baking<br />

sheet and toss with the salt. When they’re thoroughly<br />

cooled, store them in an airtight plastic container at<br />

room temperature.<br />

herb-marinated skirt steaks<br />

For the best flavor and tender ness, cook these steaks to medium<br />

rare or just barely medium. Thinner skirt steaks will cook more<br />

quickly. If you can’t grill these steaks, sear-roast them; instructions<br />

are included for both methods. Serves 6 to 8<br />

4 lb. skirt steaks (3 or 4 steaks)<br />

12 cloves garlic<br />

4 5-inch sprigs fresh rosemary<br />

16 sprigs fresh thyme<br />

1 Tbs. freshly cracked<br />

black pepper<br />

extra-virgin olive oil<br />

sea salt<br />

pesto-Style Salsa Verde<br />

(recipe, facing page)<br />

Trim the steaks of excess fat and<br />

cut into pieces that are of relatively<br />

even thickness and of manageable<br />

size. Smash the garlic cloves with<br />

the flat part of a heavy knife and<br />

then peel the cloves. Crush and<br />

tear the rosemary sprigs with your<br />

hands to release their perfume. In a<br />

large bowl, combine the steaks with<br />

the herbs, garlic, pepper, and 6 Tbs.<br />

olive oil. Toss to coat well. Cover<br />

and refrigerate for 1 to 2 days.<br />

to grill the steaks<br />

Take the steaks out of the refrigerator<br />

30 minutes before grilling and<br />

brush off the herb sprigs and garlic.<br />

Prepare a medium-hot gas or<br />

charcoal grill fire. Season the<br />

steaks with salt. Oil the grill and<br />

then grill the steaks for 2 to 3 minutes<br />

on each side for medium rare<br />

(thicker steaks will be medium<br />

rare after 3 to 5 minutes per side).<br />

Let rest for 10 minutes on a clean<br />

62 cookfresh summer 2017


cutting board before slicing thinly<br />

across the grain. Serve with the<br />

salsa verde.<br />

to sear-roast the steaks<br />

Heat the oven to 400°F. Put a<br />

rack in a rimmed baking sheet<br />

or roasting pan. Let the steaks<br />

sit at room temperature for<br />

30 minutes. Brush off the herb<br />

sprigs and garlic and season the<br />

steaks with salt. Heat a 12-inch<br />

sauté pan over high heat until<br />

very hot. Add a small amount of<br />

olive oil and as many pieces of<br />

steak as will fit without crowding<br />

(and use a splatter screen if you<br />

have one). Sear until the first side<br />

is well browned, 2 to 3 minutes.<br />

Flip and sear the other side until<br />

well browned, 2 to 3 minutes.<br />

(Reduce the heat to medium high<br />

if the pan is too hot and smoky.)<br />

Transfer the steaks to the rack on<br />

the baking sheet and continue<br />

searing the remaining steaks<br />

in batches.<br />

When all the steaks are seared,<br />

roast them in the oven until done<br />

to your liking, 5 to 10 minutes. Let<br />

the steaks rest for 10 minutes<br />

before slicing thinly across the<br />

grain. Serve with the salsa verde.<br />

pesto-style<br />

salsa verde<br />

This smooth herb sauce is<br />

more like a pesto than a traditional<br />

salsa verde. It’s delicious<br />

with anything grilled:<br />

fish, shellfish, chicken, pork,<br />

beef, and even vegetables.<br />

Red chile flakes are included<br />

for heat; it’s rounded out with<br />

freshly ground black pepper.<br />

Yields 1 cup<br />

1/4 cup blanched almonds<br />

kosher salt<br />

1 cup packed fresh flat-leaf<br />

parsley leaves<br />

1/2 cup packed fresh basil leaves<br />

1/2 cup packed fresh cilantro<br />

leaves<br />

2 medium cloves garlic,<br />

coarsely chopped<br />

1/4 tsp. dried red chile flakes<br />

Freshly ground black pepper<br />

3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil<br />

1 Tbs. white-wine vinegar<br />

Heat the oven to 400°F. Spread<br />

the almonds in a pie pan and<br />

toast the almonds in the oven<br />

until lightly golden, about 8 minutes.<br />

Transfer to a plate and<br />

let cool.<br />

Bring a large pot of water to a<br />

boil and salt the water heavily (it<br />

should taste like sea water). Add<br />

the parsley and basil leaves to<br />

the pot and blanch for 1 minute.<br />

Drain the leaves and immediately<br />

transfer them to a colander<br />

under cold running water or to an<br />

ice bath. When the leaves have<br />

cooled, squeeze them dry with<br />

your hands.<br />

Put the toasted almonds, the<br />

blanched parsley and basil, the<br />

cilantro, garlic, chile flakes, 1/2 tsp.<br />

salt, and a few grinds of pepper in<br />

a blender or food pro cessor. With<br />

the machine on, gradually pour<br />

the olive oil into the feed tube<br />

and process until the mixture<br />

becomes a thick purée. The salsa<br />

verde may be made to this point<br />

a day ahead and refrigerated.<br />

Return the salsa verde to<br />

room temperature, if chilled,<br />

and stir in the vinegar just before<br />

serving to prevent discoloration.<br />

finecooking.com 63


timeline<br />

UP TO ONE<br />

WEEK AHEAD<br />

• Make the almonds.<br />

• Make the crumb topping<br />

for the cake.<br />

UP TO TWO<br />

DAYS AHEAD<br />

• Marinate the skirt steaks.<br />

• Slice the olives for the tomato<br />

and olive salad.<br />

• Toast the nuts for the<br />

salsa verde.<br />

ONE DAY AHEAD<br />

• Make the lemon vinaigrette.<br />

• Wash the romaine.<br />

• Bake the cake.<br />

TWO HOURS<br />

BEFORE SERVING<br />

• Cut the tomatoes, assemble<br />

the tomato and olive<br />

salad, and keep at room<br />

temperature.<br />

• Make the salsa verde and<br />

keep at room temperature.<br />

ONE HOUR BEFORE<br />

SERVING<br />

• Bring the lemon vinaigrette to<br />

room temperature.<br />

• Whip the crème fraîche.<br />

25 TO 30 MINUTES<br />

BEFORE SERVING<br />

• Grill the steaks.<br />

• Open the wine.<br />

A FEW MINUTES<br />

BEFORE SERVING<br />

• Toss the romaine with<br />

the vinaigrette.<br />

sun-ripened tomato and olive salad<br />

Capture the flavor of ripe, just-picked tomatoes at their peak with this salad. If your<br />

tomatoes are very sweet and need more acid, adjust the flavor by adding another<br />

tablespoon of sherry vinegar. serves 6<br />

1 cup pitted niçoise or kalamata olives<br />

2 lb. heirloom tomatoes (about 6),<br />

assorted colors and sizes<br />

1 medium shallot, minced<br />

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper<br />

1 tbs. sherry vinegar<br />

1 tbs. coarsely chopped fresh<br />

flat-leaf parsley<br />

3 tbs. extra-virgin olive oil<br />

slice the olives into quarters. core the tomatoes<br />

and slice them into large bite-size<br />

wedges or large cubes. put the olives, tomatoes,<br />

and shallot in a large bowl and season<br />

with salt and pepper to taste. add the sherry<br />

vinegar and parsley. season again with salt<br />

and pepper to taste, then add the olive oil<br />

and toss. (The salad may be prepared up to<br />

2 hours ahead, covered, and left at room temperature.<br />

Toss again before serving.)<br />

Variation<br />

substitute 2 Tbs. torn basil or a mix of<br />

chopped fresh herbs for the parsley.<br />

64 cookfresh summer 2017


omaine hearts with lemon vinaigrette<br />

The tangy lemon vinaigrette in this simple salad contrasts with the cool<br />

juiciness of the lettuce and the nutty saltiness of the shaved cheese. serves 6<br />

1 medium shallot, minced<br />

3 tbs. fresh lemon juice<br />

1/4 tsp. granulated sugar<br />

sea salt<br />

3 small hearts of romaine<br />

or 3 heads of baby<br />

romaine<br />

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil<br />

Freshly ground black<br />

pepper<br />

1/2 cup shaved grana padano<br />

or parmigiano-reggiano<br />

in a medium bowl, combine<br />

the shallot, lemon juice, sugar,<br />

and 1/2 tsp. salt. stir to dissolve<br />

the sugar and salt, then let the<br />

mixture sit for 15 minutes.<br />

meanwhile, cut off the root<br />

end of the romaine so that<br />

the leaves fall loose. Wash the<br />

leaves, spin them dry, and put<br />

them in a large bowl.<br />

slowly whisk the olive oil<br />

into the lemon juice mixture<br />

(you should have about<br />

1/2 cup vinaigrette). season<br />

with salt, if necessary, and<br />

a few grinds of pepper.<br />

(This vinaigrette can be<br />

made ahead; just whisk to<br />

recombine it before using.<br />

if you make it more than<br />

2 hours ahead, cover,<br />

refrigerate, and bring it<br />

to room temperature<br />

before using.)<br />

Toss the romaine with<br />

enough vinaigrette to lightly<br />

coat. season the salad with<br />

salt and pepper to taste.<br />

arrange the leaves on a<br />

large platter and sprinkle<br />

with the shaved cheese.<br />

shopping list<br />

MEAT, EGGS & POULTRY<br />

• 4 lb. skirt steaks<br />

• 3 large eggs<br />

FRESH PRODUCE<br />

• 2 lb. heirloom tomatoes, assorted<br />

colors and sizes<br />

• 2 medium shallots<br />

• 1 to 2 lemons<br />

• 3 small hearts of romaine or<br />

3 heads of baby romaine<br />

• 2 cups fresh blueberries,<br />

raspberries, or a mix<br />

• 1 large bunch fresh thyme<br />

• 2 large bunches fresh flat-leaf<br />

parsley (1 cup packed leaves and<br />

1 Tbs. chopped)<br />

• 1 large bunch fresh basil<br />

• 1 large bunch fresh cilantro<br />

• 1 small bunch fresh rosemary<br />

• 1 small bunch fresh sage<br />

OTHER GROCERIES<br />

• 1 package blanched almonds<br />

(enough for 2¼ cups)<br />

• 1 container sea salt<br />

• 1 bottle sherry vinegar (1 Tbs.)<br />

• 1 cup pitted Nicoise or<br />

Kalamata olives<br />

• 1 block Grana Padano or Parmigiano-<br />

Reggiano (need ½ cup shaved)<br />

• 1 carton buttermilk<br />

• 1 lb. (2 cups) crème fraîche<br />

PANTRY STAPLES<br />

• Kosher salt and black pepper<br />

• 2₃ cups extra-virgin olive oil<br />

• 1 Tbs. white-wine vinegar<br />

• 2 heads garlic<br />

• ¼ tsp. dried red chile flakes<br />

• About 4 cups unbleached<br />

all-purpose flour<br />

• About 1½ cups granulated sugar<br />

• ₃ cup light brown sugar<br />

• 1 cup (about 16 Tbs.) unsalted butter<br />

• 4 tsp. baking powder<br />

• 1 tsp. baking soda<br />

• 2 tsp. vanilla extract<br />

finecooking.com 65


erry buttermilk cake with<br />

vanilla-scented crème fraîche<br />

Any leftovers make a great breakfast treat. Serves 12 to 16<br />

For the crumb topping<br />

21/4 oz. (1/2 cup) unbleached<br />

all-purpose flour<br />

1/3 cup firmly packed light brown sugar<br />

1/4 tsp. kosher salt<br />

2 oz. (1/4 cup) unsalted butter, chilled<br />

For the cake<br />

2 cups fresh blueberries, raspberries,<br />

or a mix<br />

131/2 oz. (3 cups) unbleached all-purpose<br />

flour; more for the pan and for<br />

the berries<br />

4 tsp. baking powder<br />

1 tsp. baking soda<br />

3/4 tsp. kosher salt<br />

6 oz. (3/4 cup) unsalted butter,<br />

softened at room temperature;<br />

more for the pan<br />

11/2 cups granulated sugar<br />

3 large eggs<br />

2 tsp. pure vanilla extract<br />

11/2 cups buttermilk<br />

For the vanilla crÈme fraîche<br />

1 lb. (2 cups) crème fraîche<br />

1 tsp. pure vanilla extract<br />

1 Tbs. granulated sugar<br />

Make the crumb topping<br />

Mix the flour, brown sugar, and salt in<br />

a medium bowl. Cut the butter into<br />

chunks and add to the dry mixture.<br />

Rub the flour and butter between your<br />

fingers until the mixture just comes<br />

together and has a nice crumbly texture.<br />

(This topping can be made ahead<br />

and stored, tightly covered, in the refrigerator<br />

for up to a week.)<br />

Make the cake<br />

Rinse the berries well in a colander<br />

under running water and spread on<br />

paper towels. Let the berries air-dry for<br />

at least 15 minutes. Meanwhile, position<br />

a rack in the center of the oven and heat<br />

the oven to 350°F. Generously butter<br />

and flour a 12-cup bundt pan. In a<br />

medium bowl, mix the flour, baking<br />

powder, baking soda, and salt.<br />

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted<br />

with a paddle attachment or with a<br />

handheld electric mixer, whip the butter<br />

and sugar together on medium-high<br />

speed until light and fluffy, about<br />

3 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time,<br />

beating well for 15 seconds after each<br />

addi tion. Scrape the bowl, add the<br />

vanilla, and continue whipping until the<br />

mixture is light and fluffy, 1 to 2 minutes.<br />

On low speed, add the dry ingredients<br />

one-third at a time, alternating with the<br />

buttermilk 1/2 cup at a time. After the last<br />

addition of buttermilk, scrape the bowl,<br />

increase the speed to medium, and<br />

beat for about 15 seconds to mix the<br />

batter fully.<br />

Transfer the berries to a medium<br />

bowl and toss gently with 2 tsp. flour.<br />

Gently fold the berries into the cake<br />

batter with a rubber spatula to avoid<br />

crushing the berries too much. Scrape<br />

the batter into the prepared pan with<br />

the rubber spatula, level the batter, and<br />

sprinkle with the crumb topping.<br />

Bake until a toothpick or wooden<br />

skewer comes out clean when inserted<br />

into the middle of the cake, 45 to<br />

55 minutes. Let the cake rest for<br />

10 min utes before turning it out onto a<br />

rack. Flip the cake back over so that the<br />

crumb topping is upright. Let cool completely<br />

and wrap tightly. Store at room<br />

temperature overnight before slicing.<br />

Make the vanilla crème fraîche<br />

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with<br />

a whisk attachment or with a handheld<br />

electric mixer, whip the crème fraîche,<br />

vanilla extract, and sugar until soft<br />

peaks form, about 2 minutes. Cover<br />

and refrigerate until ready to use.<br />

To serve<br />

Slice the cake and serve each slice with<br />

a dollop of the crème fraîche.<br />

For the best flavor, make both<br />

this deliciously moist bundt<br />

cake and its crème fraîche<br />

topping one day in advance.<br />

66 cookfresh summer 2017


finecooking.com 67


COOK WITH<br />

HONEY<br />

Honey lends a distinctive sweetness to suppers,<br />

snacks, desserts, and more.<br />

No. 1: Drizzle on pancakes<br />

zucchini and corn pancakes with greek yogurt and honey<br />

Crispy and golden around the edges, fluffy and chock-full of veggies on the inside, these savory pancakes are summer-veggie<br />

comfort fare. Serve them with a dollop of Greek yogurt and a drizzle of honey. The batter will hold if you want to make it a bit<br />

ahead and cook to order. Yields 12<br />

3 Tbs. unsalted butter,<br />

plus more for frying<br />

1 Tbs. olive oil, plus more<br />

for frying<br />

1½ cups small-diced zucchini or<br />

pattypan squash (1 mediumsmall<br />

zucchini, or about 7 oz.)<br />

Kosher salt<br />

11/4 cups fresh corn kernels<br />

(from 2 to 3 ears)<br />

½ cup sliced fresh scallions<br />

(white and light green parts)<br />

½ to 1 tsp. minced fresh<br />

serrano peppers<br />

Freshly ground black pepper<br />

2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf<br />

parsley<br />

2 Tbs. sliced fresh chives<br />

½ cup plus 1 Tbs. unbleached<br />

all-purpose flour<br />

½ cup cornmeal<br />

2 tsp. sugar<br />

½ tsp. baking powder<br />

½ tsp. baking soda<br />

1 large egg, beaten<br />

/₃ cup whole milk<br />

2 Tbs. plain thick Greek yogurt<br />

or sour cream, plus more for<br />

serving<br />

Honey, preferably local,<br />

for serving<br />

In a medium (10-inch) heavy,<br />

nonstick, ovenproof skillet, heat<br />

½ Tbs. of the butter with the olive<br />

oil over medium-high heat. Add<br />

the zucchini and ₈ tsp. salt and<br />

cook, stirring only occasionally,<br />

until the zucchini are shrunken a<br />

bit and starting to brown lightly,<br />

about 3 minutes. Add another<br />

½ Tbs. butter, the corn, scallions,<br />

serranos, and ½ tsp. salt. cook,<br />

stirring occasionally, until the<br />

corn kernels are glistening and<br />

some are slightly shrunken, 2 to<br />

3 more minutes. remove the pan<br />

from the heat, season the veggies<br />

with black pepper, and transfer to<br />

a mixing bowl. Let cool to room<br />

temperature, stirring occasionally<br />

(20 to 25 minutes). stir in the<br />

parsley and chives.<br />

In a medium mixing bowl, whisk<br />

together the flour, cornmeal,<br />

sugar, baking powder, baking<br />

soda, and ½ tsp. salt.<br />

melt the remaining 2 Tbs.<br />

butter (in the microwave or on<br />

the stovetop) and let cool slightly.<br />

In a small bowl, whisk together the<br />

egg, milk, yogurt, and the melted<br />

butter. make a well in the center<br />

of the dry ingredients and pour<br />

in the liquid mixture, whisking<br />

until just combined. combine<br />

the batter with the vegetable<br />

herb mixture and stir well. Let the<br />

batter sit for 5 minutes or up to<br />

30 minutes.<br />

In a large (12-inch) nonstick<br />

skillet, heat about ½ Tbs. butter<br />

and 1 Tbs. olive oil over medium<br />

heat. When the butter has melted<br />

and is bubbling, use a 1/4-cup<br />

measure to scoop batter into<br />

the pan, forming 3 to 4 pancakes.<br />

cook for about 2 minutes, until<br />

the pancakes are golden brown<br />

on the bottom (you will see a lot<br />

of bubbles on top), then flip. cook<br />

for 1 minute more. (The bottom<br />

will brown more quickly.) Transfer<br />

to a paper towel–lined plate<br />

and keep warm in a low (200°f)<br />

oven, if desired. repeat with the<br />

remaining batter, adding butter<br />

and oil as necessary, and turning<br />

the heat down as necessary.<br />

serve warm with dollops of<br />

greek yogurt and a generous<br />

drizzle of honey.<br />

68 cookfresh summer 2017


TEMP TIP<br />

Keep adjusting the heat during fry<br />

ing. Too high, it can overcook the<br />

chicken and make the coating taste<br />

bitter. Too low, it causes the coating<br />

to absorb oil and become greasy.<br />

fInecookIng.com 69


70 cookfresh summer 2017


No. 2: Marinate meat<br />

honey-balsamic pulled pork<br />

with avocado relish<br />

Throw a few things in the slow cooker in the morning<br />

and come home to fork-tender pork simmering<br />

in a rich, sweet sauce. Serve the relish alongside<br />

or use it as a topping for pulled pork sandwiches.<br />

Serves 4, with leftover pork for 4 to 6<br />

1/4 cup honey<br />

1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce<br />

1/4 cup aged balsamic vinegar<br />

2 3-inch rosemary sprigs<br />

1 medium clove garlic, minced<br />

1 5-lb. bone-in pork shoulder<br />

Kosher salt<br />

2 ripe Hass avocados, diced<br />

2 Tbs. pickled jalapeño rings, chopped<br />

1 Tbs. apple cider vinegar<br />

Combine the honey, Worcestershire, vinegar, rosemary,<br />

and garlic in a 5- to 6-quart slow cooker. Add the pork<br />

and turn to coat. Cover and cook until fork-tender, about<br />

6 hours on high or 10 hours on low.<br />

Transfer the pork to a large cutting board. Discard the<br />

rosemary. Pour the liquid into a fat separator. Pull the pork<br />

into chunks, discarding the bone and any large pieces of<br />

fat or gristle. Transfer to a large bowl.<br />

Defat the liquid and bring to a boil in a 2-quart saucepan<br />

over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Cook until<br />

reduced to about 1 cup, about 6 minutes. Pour over the<br />

meat, toss well, and season to taste with salt.<br />

In a small bowl, mix the avocados, jalapeños, vinegar,<br />

and salt to taste. Serve with the pork.<br />

No. 3: Top fruit<br />

broiled grapefruit with<br />

honey, vanilla, and cardamom<br />

Grapefruit halves are a breakfast classic, but adding just a<br />

few intense flavorings and then broiling elevates them to a<br />

whole new level of deliciousness. Serves 4<br />

4 great ideas<br />

for leftover pork<br />

• Add to a quesadilla along with<br />

charred onions, peppers, and cheese.<br />

• Stir into a frittata with roasted<br />

poblanos and corn.<br />

• Mix into your favorite hash and serve<br />

with a poached egg.<br />

• Layer with cheese, peaches, and hot<br />

sauce for a gourmet grilled cheese.<br />

2 large grapefruit<br />

2 Tbs. honey<br />

1 tsp. pure vanilla extract<br />

Seeds of 1 cardamom pod,<br />

ground in a mortar (or a<br />

pinch of ground cardamom)<br />

Position an oven rack about<br />

4 inches below the broiler and<br />

heat the broiler on high. With a<br />

serrated knife, cut the grapefruit<br />

in even halves. Using a small<br />

paring knife or a grapefruit knife,<br />

cut each section away from the<br />

surrounding membrane. Set the<br />

grapefruit halves in a shallow<br />

broiler-safe pan (such as an<br />

enameled baking dish or a heavyduty<br />

rimmed baking sheet). If<br />

necessary, trim a thin slice off<br />

their bottoms so they sit level.<br />

In a small bowl, stir together<br />

the honey and the vanilla extract.<br />

Drizzle the honey mixture over<br />

the grapefruit halves. Dust each<br />

with a bit of cardamom. Broil until<br />

bubbling and lightly browned in<br />

spots, 4 to 6 minutes. Remove<br />

from the oven and let cool<br />

slightly. Serve warm or at room<br />

temperature.<br />

finecooking.com 71


No. 5: Flavor butter<br />

fried chicken with paprika<br />

and honey butter<br />

The union of crisp coating, smoky heat, and sweet slather is a beautiful<br />

one indeed. The butter is so yummy that you may want to double<br />

the recipe to have some on hand for toast and waffles. Serves 4<br />

No. 4: Purée<br />

and freeze<br />

mango-honeymint<br />

sorbet<br />

Here, honey replaces the sugar syrup<br />

that usually sweetens sorbet, lending<br />

it a deeper flavor. Be sure to purée the<br />

sorbet mixture until completely smooth<br />

for the best texture. Serves 8<br />

1 or 2 large oranges, finely grated to yield<br />

½ tsp. zest, squeezed to yield ½ cup juice<br />

4 cups chopped, peeled, very ripe mango<br />

(from about 3 large)<br />

½ cup mild honey (such as clover)<br />

2 tsp. chopped fresh mint<br />

½ tsp. kosher salt<br />

Combine all of the ingredients with ½ cup<br />

water in a blender and purée until completely<br />

smooth. Freeze in an ice cream maker<br />

according to the manufacturer’s instructions.<br />

Serve immediately or transfer to an airtight<br />

container and freeze for a firmer texture.<br />

The sorbet will keep in the freezer for up to<br />

1 month. If the texture becomes icy, melt the<br />

sorbet and refreeze it in the ice cream maker.<br />

FOR THE BRINE<br />

2½ oz. kosher salt (½ cup<br />

Diamond Crystal or 1/4 cup plus<br />

1 tsp. Morton)<br />

½ cup granulated sugar<br />

1/4 tsp. crushed red<br />

pepper flakes<br />

1 large orange<br />

1 large lemon<br />

2 boneless skin-on chicken<br />

breasts, halved crosswise<br />

2 boneless skin-on chicken thighs<br />

2 bone-in chicken drumsticks<br />

FOR THE HONEY BUTTER<br />

4 oz. (½ cup) unsalted butter,<br />

softened<br />

½ cup honey<br />

½ tsp. kosher salt; more to taste<br />

FOR DREDGING AND FRYING<br />

9 oz. (2 cups) all-purpose flour<br />

11/4 oz. (1/4 cup) rice flour<br />

1 Tbs. plus ½ tsp. kosher salt;<br />

more for serving<br />

1 Tbs. garlic powder<br />

1 Tbs. freshly ground<br />

black pepper<br />

2 tsp. onion powder<br />

½ tsp. baking powder<br />

1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper<br />

11/4 tsp. smoked paprika<br />

2 cups buttermilk<br />

1 gallon canola oil or<br />

rice bran oil<br />

BRINE THE CHICKEN<br />

Combine the salt, sugar, pepper<br />

flakes, and 1 gallon water in a large<br />

pot. Using a vegetable peeler, zest<br />

the orange and lemon in strips, and<br />

add the zest to the pot. Stir over<br />

medium heat until the salt and sugar<br />

dissolve, about 5 minutes. Cool to<br />

room temperature in the pot or other<br />

large container. Add the chicken, cover,<br />

and refrigerate for at least 12 and<br />

up to 24 hours.<br />

MAKE THE HONEY BUTTER<br />

Using an electric mixer, whip the butter<br />

ingredients in a medium bowl until<br />

fluffy, about 2 minutes. Season to<br />

taste with more salt.<br />

DREDGE AND FRY THE CHICKEN<br />

In a large bowl, whisk the flours, 1 Tbs.<br />

of the salt, garlic powder, black pepper,<br />

onion powder, baking powder,<br />

cayenne, and 1/4 tsp. of the paprika.<br />

Remove the chicken from the brine<br />

and blot dry with paper towels.<br />

Pour the buttermilk into a medium<br />

bowl and dip a piece of chicken into<br />

it, letting the excess drip back into<br />

the bowl. Dredge the chicken in the<br />

flour mixture, dragging it through to<br />

coat both sides but not too thickly.<br />

Repeat with the remaining pieces and<br />

set aside while you heat the oil.<br />

Set a wire rack on a paper towel–<br />

lined rimmed baking sheet. Fit an<br />

8-quart Dutch oven or other heavyduty<br />

pot with a deep-fry thermometer,<br />

add the oil, and heat over medium<br />

high to 340°F. Working in batches,<br />

fry the chicken, adjusting the heat as<br />

needed to maintain 340°F, until an<br />

instant-read thermometer registers<br />

165°F in the thickest part of each<br />

piece, about 8 minutes for the boneless<br />

pieces and 10 to 12 minutes for<br />

the drumsticks.<br />

Transfer the chicken to the rack.<br />

Combine the remaining 1 tsp. paprika<br />

and ½ tsp. kosher salt and sprinkle<br />

half of it over the chicken while it’s<br />

hot. Let the chicken rest 1 minute,<br />

turn the pieces over, then sprinkle a<br />

little of the paprika mixture over the<br />

other side. Serve with the honey butter<br />

on the side, or generously smear<br />

some of it on the chicken before<br />

serving.<br />

72 cookfresh summer 2017


TEMP TIP<br />

Keep adjusting the heat during<br />

frying . Too high , it can overcook the<br />

chicken and make the coating taste<br />

bitter . Too low , it causes the coating<br />

to absorb oil and become greasy .


No. 6: Add<br />

to a glaze<br />

honey-chipotle<br />

glazed flank steak<br />

This steak takes just a handful<br />

of minutes under the broiler.<br />

Serves 4<br />

2 tsp. olive oil<br />

2 tsp. minced garlic<br />

½ tsp. ground cumin<br />

Kosher salt<br />

1½ Tbs. minced canned chipotle<br />

in adobo sauce<br />

1 Tbs. honey<br />

1 Tbs. fresh lime juice<br />

1 tsp. finely grated lime zest<br />

1 lb. flank steak<br />

Position an oven rack 6 inches below<br />

the broiler and heat the broiler on<br />

high. Line a large rimmed baking sheet<br />

with foil.<br />

Combine 1 tsp. of the oil, the garlic,<br />

cumin, and ½ tsp. salt in a 1-quart<br />

saucepan over medium-low heat;<br />

cook, stirring occasionally, until the<br />

garlic is golden, about 2 minutes.<br />

Add the chipotle and honey and stir<br />

until heated through, about 1 minute.<br />

Remove from the heat and stir in the<br />

lime juice and zest.<br />

Rub the flank steak with the<br />

remaining 1 tsp. oil and season<br />

generously with salt. Transfer to the<br />

prepared baking sheet and broil,<br />

turning once, until slightly browned<br />

and cooked to your liking, about<br />

3 minutes per side for medium rare.<br />

Spread the glaze over the top of the<br />

steak and broil until it begins to bubble<br />

and darken in places, 1 to 2 minutes.<br />

Transfer to a cutting board and let rest<br />

for 5 minutes. Slice against the grain<br />

and serve.<br />

74 cookfresh summer 2017


No. 8: Sweeten<br />

vegetables<br />

carrot salad with<br />

walnut oil and honey<br />

You might be surprised how well the toasty flavors<br />

of the walnuts and walnut oil complement the<br />

freshly grated carrot. This salad would be a<br />

delicious accompaniment to roast pork or chicken.<br />

Serves 6<br />

No. 7: Dress a salad<br />

mixed herb salad<br />

with honey-lime dressing<br />

A riff on the cabbage slaw traditionally served with tonkatsu,<br />

this salad goes the extra flavor mile with lots of fresh herbs,<br />

crunchy vegetables, and a tangy Thai-inspired dressing.<br />

Serves 8<br />

FOR THE SALAD<br />

4 cups mixed mesclun greens<br />

2 cups coarsely chopped<br />

bibb lettuce<br />

1 cup very thinly sliced<br />

green cabbage<br />

1 cup fresh basil leaves,<br />

preferably Thai basil, large<br />

leaves coarsely torn<br />

1 cup fresh mint leaves<br />

1 cup fresh cilantro leaves,<br />

coarsely chopped<br />

4 small scallions (white and<br />

green parts), sliced into<br />

1-inch lengths<br />

1 cup cherry or grape<br />

tomatoes, halved<br />

½ cup very thinly sliced<br />

red onion<br />

½ cup very thinly sliced<br />

red bell pepper<br />

FOR THE DRESSING<br />

2½ Tbs. fresh lime juice<br />

2½ Tbs. honey<br />

2 tsp. fish sauce<br />

1/8 tsp. minced garlic<br />

2 Tbs. thinly sliced fresh red or<br />

green chile or both (optional)<br />

Kosher salt and freshly<br />

ground black pepper<br />

Make the salad<br />

In a large bowl, combine the<br />

mesclun, lettuce, cabbage, basil,<br />

mint, cilantro, scallions, tomatoes,<br />

onion, and bell pepper.<br />

Make the dressing<br />

In a small bowl, whisk the lime<br />

juice, honey, fish sauce, garlic,<br />

and chile, if using. Season to<br />

taste with salt and pepper.<br />

Just before serving, toss the<br />

salad mixture with just enough<br />

of the dressing to coat the salad<br />

lightly—you may not need all of<br />

the dressing.<br />

Make ahead:<br />

You can combine, cover, and refrigerate<br />

the salad ingredients up<br />

to 6 hours ahead. The dressing<br />

can be made up to 1 day ahead.<br />

1½ lb. carrots, peeled and grated on the medium<br />

holes of a box grater<br />

1 cup walnuts, toasted and chopped<br />

½ cup dried currants<br />

1 orange, juiced (about ½ cup)<br />

3 Tbs. apple-cider vinegar<br />

1 Tbs. honey<br />

3 Tbs. untoasted walnut oil (for sources, see p. 93)<br />

Kosher or sea salt<br />

Freshly ground black pepper<br />

2½ Tbs. finely chopped chives<br />

Combine the grated carrots, walnuts, and currants in a<br />

medium serving bowl.<br />

In a small bowl, whisk together the orange juice, cider<br />

vinegar, and honey. Slowly whisk in the walnut oil. Season<br />

with salt and pepper to taste.<br />

Toss the carrot mixture with the vinaigrette and 2 Tbs.<br />

of the chives. Adjust the seasoning to taste. You can<br />

serve the salad immediately, but it will taste even better<br />

if you let it sit at room temperature for 15 to 20 minutes.<br />

Sprinkle with the remaining ½ Tbs. chives right before<br />

serving.


Berry Sweets<br />

Make the most of fresh, ripe berries in tempting<br />

seasonal desserts.<br />

76 cookfresh summer 2017


summer<br />

berry trifle<br />

Use any type of berry you<br />

like—just make sure you<br />

choose the ripest, tastiest<br />

ones available. The bread<br />

will soak up all their sweet<br />

juices. Serves 10 to 12<br />

11/2 quarts mixed fresh berries<br />

(hull and quarter strawberries),<br />

plus extra berries<br />

for garnish<br />

3/4 cup plus 1 Tbs. granulated<br />

sugar<br />

4 tsp. minced fresh ginger<br />

1 lb. day-old French bread,<br />

crusts removed, crumb<br />

cut into 1/2-inch cubes<br />

(5 to 6 cups)<br />

1/2 cup Grand Marnier or<br />

Cointreau<br />

11/2 cups heavy cream<br />

Heat the berries and 3/4 cup of<br />

the sugar in a 4-quart saucepan<br />

over medium-high heat, stirring<br />

occasionally, until they start to<br />

release juice but are still whole<br />

and intact, about 5 minutes.<br />

Stir in the ginger and pour the<br />

mixture onto a rimmed baking<br />

sheet to cool.<br />

Meanwhile, in a large bowl,<br />

toss the bread with 5 Tbs. of<br />

the liqueur. In a chilled metal<br />

bowl with chilled beaters, whip<br />

the cream with the remaining<br />

3 Tbs. liqueur and 1 Tbs. sugar<br />

to almost-stiff peaks.<br />

In a 2- to 21/2-quart clear glass<br />

bowl, layer in the following order:<br />

1 mounded cup of bread cubes,<br />

1 cup of berries and juices, and<br />

1 cup of whipped cream. Repeat<br />

3 times—you should have 12<br />

layers total. For the final layers,<br />

use all the remaining bread,<br />

berries (and their juices), and<br />

whipped cream.<br />

Cover and refrigerate until the<br />

juice has completely softened<br />

the bread, at least 4 hours or<br />

overnight. Garnish with fresh<br />

berries before serving.<br />

blackberry ice cream<br />

Blackberry jam ups the intensity of this vibrant ice cream, enhancing the sweetness<br />

of fresh blackberries. Yields about 1 quart ice cream<br />

13/4 cups heavy cream<br />

1/4 cup whole milk<br />

1/2 cup granulated sugar<br />

7 oz. (11/2 cups) fresh or frozen blackberries<br />

1/2 cup seedless blackberry jam<br />

1 tsp. vanilla extract<br />

1/4 tsp. table salt<br />

Stir the cream, milk, and sugar in a 3-quart<br />

saucepan over medium heat until the sugar<br />

dissolves. Continue heating, undisturbed,<br />

until steam begins rising from the surface,<br />

about 2 minutes. Transfer to a blender. Add<br />

the blackberries, jam, vanilla, and salt and<br />

blend until smooth, about 1 minute. Strain<br />

through a fine-mesh sieve into a medium<br />

bowl. Refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, at<br />

least 6 hours or up to 1 day, covering with<br />

plastic wrap once cool.<br />

Stir the blackberry mixture and churn it<br />

in an ice cream machine according to the<br />

manufacturer’s instructions until it’s the<br />

consistency of soft-serve ice cream. Serve<br />

or pack into a container, seal, and store in the<br />

freezer for up to 1 week.<br />

finecooking.com 77


strawberry-yogurt brûlée<br />

Simple yogurt and fresh strawberries become a special treat<br />

with the addition of a crunchy, caramelized sugar topping.<br />

Enjoy it for breakfast or dessert. Serves 4<br />

2 cups plain whole-milk<br />

Greek yogurt<br />

1 cup coarsely chopped<br />

strawberries, plus several<br />

strawberry slices for garnish<br />

5 Tbs. turbinado or<br />

granulated sugar<br />

In a medium bowl, combine the<br />

yogurt with the chopped strawberries<br />

and 1 Tbs. sugar. Divide<br />

among four 6-oz. ramekins.<br />

Garnish each with a few strawberry<br />

slices. Sprinkle each with<br />

about 1 Tbs. sugar. Pass the flame<br />

of a torch over the sugar until it’s<br />

melted and browned, about<br />

30 seconds. Serve immediately.<br />

blueberry crostata<br />

This simple, rustic blueberry crostata is fabulous<br />

with ice cream. Serves 8<br />

3 cups (15 oz.) fresh blueberries<br />

63/4 oz. (11/2 cups) plus 3 Tbs. all-purpose flour<br />

3 Tbs. confectioners’ sugar<br />

1/4 cup granulated sugar<br />

2 Tbs. yellow cornmeal<br />

41/2 oz. (9 Tbs.) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes<br />

1 large egg yolk<br />

3 Tbs. ice water; more as needed<br />

1 large egg white beaten with 2 Tbs. water until foamy<br />

1 Tbs. turbinado or other “raw” sugar<br />

Mix the blueberries, 3 Tbs. of the flour, and the confectioners’<br />

sugar in a medium bowl. Set aside.<br />

Position racks in the top and bottom thirds of the oven<br />

and heat the oven to 350°F. Line two rimmed baking<br />

sheets with parchment.<br />

Combine the remaining 11/2 cups flour, granulated sugar,<br />

and cornmeal in a food processor and process until the<br />

consistency of fine sand. Add the butter and pulse until<br />

there are no visible pieces of butter. Add the egg yolk and<br />

water and pulse to form a soft dough, adding more water<br />

1 tsp. at a time as necessary. Gather the dough into a ball<br />

and divide into 2 even pieces.<br />

On a well-floured work surface, roll each piece of dough<br />

into an 11-inch circle and transfer to the prepared baking<br />

sheets. Divide the blueberry filling between the circles,<br />

mounding the berries and leaving a 11/2-inch edge around<br />

each circle. Sprinkle any remaining sugar-flour mixture<br />

around the berry mounds. Try to get an even amount of<br />

blueberries and dry ingredients in each crostata. Fold the<br />

edges up over the filling, pleating as you go, to partially<br />

cover the filling. Brush the exposed dough with the egg<br />

white wash and sprinkle with the raw sugar.<br />

Bake for 25 minutes. Rotate the sheets top to bottom<br />

and back to front. (If there is any white flour mixture<br />

showing, carefully spoon a little of the blueberry juices<br />

over to cover.) Continue baking until the crusts have<br />

browned and the filling is bubbling, about 25 minutes<br />

more. Cool on the baking sheets on a rack for at least<br />

15 minutes or to room temperature.<br />

To serve, slice each crostata into quarters and serve.<br />

Make ahead:<br />

The crostatas can be made up to 1 day ahead and stored<br />

on their baking sheets at room temperature, covered<br />

loosely with a clean kitchen towel. Just before serving,<br />

warm the crostatas on their baking sheets in a 200°F oven<br />

for 10 minutes.<br />

78 cookfresh summer 2017


strawberry and kiwi tart with honey cream<br />

This gorgeous tart highlights some of summer’s most beautiful produce, underscored by a mild honey<br />

cream filling. For best results, chill the filled tart before topping it with the fruit; otherwise, the filling may<br />

be too soft to hold the fruit up well. Yields one 91/2- to 11-inch tart, plus enough dough for a second tart<br />

For the crust<br />

10 oz. (21/4 cups) all-purpose flour; more for dusting<br />

31/2 oz. (3/4 cup plus 2 Tbs.) confectioners’ sugar<br />

6 oz. (12 Tbs.) cold unsalted butter,<br />

cut into 1/2-inch pieces<br />

1/4 tsp. kosher salt<br />

2 large eggs, 1 separated<br />

Cooking spray<br />

For the filling<br />

1 cup whole milk<br />

1/4 cup honey<br />

1/2 vanilla bean or 1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract or paste<br />

1 large egg<br />

1 large egg yolk<br />

11/2 Tbs. cornstarch<br />

1 Tbs. unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces<br />

1/2 cup whipping or heavy cream<br />

For topping and finishing the tart<br />

3 cups strawberries, halved, quartered, or sliced<br />

2 to 3 ripe kiwis, peeled and cut lengthwise into<br />

wedges or crosswise into rounds<br />

3 cups strawberries, halved, quartered, or sliced<br />

1/4 cup apricot or apple jelly<br />

2 Tbs. water or white wine<br />

Make the dough<br />

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine<br />

the flour, sugar, butter, and salt. Mix on low speed until<br />

the butter begins to break up, about 1 minute. Increase the<br />

speed to just below medium and continue beating until<br />

the mixture looks sandy with butter pieces the size of tiny<br />

pebbles, about 2 minutes more.<br />

Turn the mixer off and add the whole egg and egg yolk<br />

(reserve the remaining white). Mix on low speed until<br />

incorporated. Increase the speed to medium and mix<br />

just until the dough pulls away from the sides of the bowl,<br />

about 30 seconds. Do not overmix.<br />

Divide the dough in half, press each half into a disk<br />

about 4 inches across, and wrap in plastic. Refrigerate<br />

one disk for at least 3 hours and up to 24 hours. (Freeze<br />

the other disk for up to a month; thaw in the refrigerator<br />

before using.)<br />

Shape and bake the crust<br />

Lightly flour a work surface and a rolling pin. Spray a 91/2- to<br />

11-inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom with<br />

cooking spray.<br />

Working quickly, roll the dough disk into a 1/8-inch-thick<br />

round. Transfer the dough to the tart pan and gently coax<br />

it into the pan, allowing the excess dough to hang over<br />

the sides. Roll the rolling pin over the top of the pan to cut<br />

off the excess dough. Patch any tears or cracks with the<br />

scraps. Refrigerate the crust for at least 20 minutes or<br />

freeze for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, position a rack in the<br />

center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F.<br />

Line the crust with parchment paper and fill it to the<br />

very top with beans or pie weights. Bake until the edges<br />

are golden, 18 to 20 minutes. Carefully remove the weights<br />

and paper. Bake until the center of the crust looks dry and<br />

is just beginning to color, about 5 minutes.<br />

Beat the reserved egg white. Brush the inside of the<br />

crust with some of the egg white (you won’t need it all) and<br />

return the crust to the oven until the egg white has dried,<br />

about 2 minutes. (This prevents the crust from getting<br />

soggy once you add the filling.) Cool completely on a rack.<br />

Make the pastry cream<br />

Combine the milk and 2 Tbs. of the honey in a 3- to<br />

4-quart saucepan. If using a vanilla bean, split it and<br />

scrape the seeds into the milk, then add the pod. Bring to<br />

a boil, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes. Remove the<br />

vanilla bean pod, if using.<br />

Meanwhile, in a medium heatproof bowl, whisk the<br />

remaining 2 Tbs. honey with the egg, egg yolk, and cornstarch<br />

until smooth, about 1 minute. Whisk half of the hot<br />

milk into the egg mixture until combined. Off the heat,<br />

whisk the contents of the bowl back into the remaining<br />

milk in the saucepan.<br />

Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until the<br />

mixture reaches a boil; it will thicken. Continue to cook for<br />

another minute past the boil, whisking constantly. Off the<br />

heat, whisk in the butter and vanilla paste or extract, if<br />

using. Strain the pastry cream through a medium-mesh<br />

sieve into a medium heatproof bowl. Cover with plastic<br />

wrap pressed onto the surface of the pastry cream to<br />

prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate until cold, at least<br />

2 hours and up to 3 days.<br />

Fill and top the tart<br />

In a medium bowl, beat the cream to stiff peaks with an<br />

electric hand mixer or a whisk.<br />

Beat the pastry cream to soften and smooth it. With a<br />

large spatula, fold the whipped cream into the softened<br />

pastry cream until thoroughly combined. Fill the crust with<br />

the crème légère, evening it out with the spatula. Refrigerate<br />

for at least 1 hour before topping with the fruit.<br />

Arrange the strawberries and kiwi on top of the filling.<br />

Note that because the filling is soft, you’ll need to work<br />

quickly while the filling is cold and more firm. Because it’s<br />

hard to move the fruit once it’s on the filling, you may want<br />

to practice your pattern on an empty sheet pan before<br />

placing it on the tart.<br />

Put the jelly and water or wine in a small saucepan.<br />

Simmer and whisk together to form a smooth glaze. Allow<br />

to cool slightly. Brush it on the exposed fruit, being careful<br />

not to pull up the cream filling from below. Refrigerate the<br />

tart until ready to serve. Serve the tart cold, within 6 hours<br />

of topping.<br />

80 cookfresh summer 2017


two crusts<br />

This recipe makes<br />

enough dough for two<br />

tart crusts; use one<br />

now and freeze the<br />

other for a delicious<br />

tart in your future.<br />

finecooking.com 81


lemon-buttermilk chiffon cake with raspberry sauce<br />

Buttermilk makes a classic chiffon flavoring extra-tangy, while cornmeal enhances the cake’s beautiful yellow color and adds a<br />

bit of texture (but not grit). Serves 12 to 16<br />

FOR THE CAKE<br />

7 large eggs<br />

11/2 cups granulated sugar<br />

1 Tbs. plus 2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest<br />

(from 2 to 3 large lemons)<br />

7 oz. (13/4 cups) cake flour<br />

21/4 oz. (1/2 cup) stone-ground<br />

yellow cornmeal<br />

11/2 tsp. baking powder<br />

1 tsp. table salt<br />

2/3 cup buttermilk<br />

2/3 cup neutral oil, such as canola<br />

or vegetable<br />

1 tsp. pure vanilla extract<br />

FOR THE SAUCE AND SERVING<br />

4 cups fresh or frozen raspberries,<br />

rinsed and well dried; more for garnish<br />

1/2 cup seedless raspberry jam<br />

1 oz. (1/4 cup) confectioners’ sugar;<br />

more to taste<br />

pinch of table salt<br />

Fresh mint leaves (optional)<br />

Whipped cream (optional)<br />

make the cake<br />

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven<br />

and heat the oven to 325°F. Have ready an<br />

ungreased, not nonstick 10x4-inch (16-cup)<br />

angel food cake pan.<br />

Separate the eggs, putting the yolks in a<br />

small bowl and the whites in a medium bowl.<br />

In a food processor, pulse 11/4 cups of<br />

the granulated sugar and the lemon zest<br />

until the zest is finely ground, about eight<br />

1-second pulses.<br />

Sift the flour into the bowl of a stand mixer<br />

or a large mixing bowl. Whisk in the sugar mixture,<br />

cornmeal, baking powder, and salt. Add<br />

the egg yolks, buttermilk, oil, and vanilla. Using<br />

the stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment<br />

or a handheld mixer, beat on mediumlow<br />

speed until blended. Increase the speed<br />

to medium high and beat until lighter in color<br />

and thick enough to form a slowly dissolving<br />

ribbon of batter when the paddle or beaters<br />

are lifted, about 3 minutes.<br />

Using the stand mixer fitted with a clean<br />

bowl and the whisk attachment or a handheld<br />

mixer with clean beaters, beat the egg whites<br />

on medium-low speed until foamy, about<br />

1 minute. Increase the speed to medium, and<br />

beat until the whites are opaque and form<br />

very soft peaks, about 11/2 minutes. Slowly add<br />

the remaining granulated sugar, and beat until<br />

the whites are thick and shiny and form soft<br />

peaks, about 11/2 minutes.<br />

Using a rubber spatula, scrape about onefourth<br />

of the whites into the batter and gently<br />

fold until blended. Add the remaining whites<br />

and gently fold until just blended with no visible<br />

streaks of either the whites or batter.<br />

Immediately scrape the batter into the<br />

cake pan. Bake until deep golden brown and<br />

springy when touched, about 60 minutes. The<br />

top will have cracks that still look moist inside.<br />

Immediately invert the pan onto its feet or<br />

by sliding the center tube onto the neck of a<br />

bottle. Let cool completely, then remove<br />

from the pan.<br />

The cake can be served immediately or<br />

covered and stored at room temperature for<br />

up to 5 days.<br />

Make the sauce<br />

In a food processor or blender, purée the<br />

raspberries, jam, confectioners’ sugar, and<br />

salt. Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh<br />

sieve over a small bowl, pressing firmly on the<br />

seeds. Season to taste with more confectioners’<br />

sugar. The sauce can be covered and<br />

refrigerated for up to 5 days.<br />

Serve slices of the cake with the sauce,<br />

berries, mint, and whipped cream, if using.<br />

create soft peaks fold in stages cool upside down<br />

Beat the egg whites only to soft peaks; any<br />

stiffer and they won’t expand well during<br />

baking. Stop beating when the tracks from<br />

the beaters are starting to hold their shape<br />

and the peaks flop over when the beaters<br />

are lifted.<br />

Lighten the batter with one-quarter of the<br />

egg whites so it’s easier to fold in the rest.<br />

When no streaks remain, gently pour and<br />

scrape the batter into the cake pan and bake<br />

right away so that it doesn’t deflate.<br />

Invert the cake so it doesn’t collapse as it<br />

cools. If your pan doesn’t have feet, suspend it<br />

on the neck of a wine bottle. The cake will cool<br />

a little faster this way, so you might want to do<br />

this even if your pan does have feet.<br />

82 cookfresh summer 2017


loosen the sides lift from the center saw to slice<br />

Run a long, thin knife around the cake before<br />

removing it from the pan. Since you didn’t<br />

grease the pan, you need to separate the cake,<br />

or it could tear.<br />

Grasp the center tube and pull straight up.<br />

The cake should slide right out of the pan. To<br />

remove the tube part of the pan, loosen the<br />

center and bottom of the cake with the knife,<br />

and pull the tube out.<br />

Use a serrated knife and a sawing motion to<br />

slice the cake without squashing the airy texture<br />

you worked so carefully to create.<br />

finecooking.com 83


test kitchen<br />

TIPS • TECHNIQUES • INGREDIENTS<br />

a bundt<br />

pan makes<br />

the messy<br />

technique<br />

of removing<br />

kernels from<br />

the cob a little<br />

easier.<br />

84 cookfresh summer 2017


teCHniQUe<br />

cutting corn off the cob<br />

For recipes like the Zucchini and Corn Pancakes<br />

on p. 68, you’ll need to remove corn kernels from<br />

the cob. This process can be messy—they like to<br />

bounce off the cutting board and end up scattered<br />

all over the counter and floor. To keep those kernels<br />

in their place, insert the tip of the ear of corn<br />

into the center hole of a Bundt pan. Cut the kernels<br />

away from the cob in long downward strokes,<br />

letting them fall into the pan.<br />

It’s also easy to preserve fresh corn kernels to<br />

keep on hand for tossing into salads, side dishes,<br />

sautés, or other weeknight dishes. Simply cut the<br />

kernels off the cobs, as described above, and then<br />

blanch them in boiling water for 1 to 2 minutes.<br />

Drain, let cool, and store in a covered container in<br />

the fridge for up to five days. Or freeze the kernels<br />

in a single layer on a baking sheet until hard, and<br />

then store in an airtight container in the freezer,<br />

where they’ll keep for up to three months.<br />

tiP<br />

shopping for corn<br />

Sometimes even the best-looking corn is bland<br />

and starchy. That’s because as soon as corn is<br />

picked, its sugar starts converting to starch. To<br />

make sure you get the best corn possible, try to<br />

buy it at a farmstand or farmers’ market, where<br />

it’s more likely to be fresh-picked. Look for corn<br />

that still has its husks, as well as soft, almost<br />

damp-feeling silk. It’s tempting to peel back the<br />

husk to peek at the kernels, but that can dry it<br />

out. Instead, give it a gentle squeeze from end to<br />

end to feel for plump kernels.<br />

inGredient<br />

miso<br />

Once enjoyed by only the emperors and shogun<br />

of Japan, miso now appears in some form at<br />

nearly every Japanese meal. The salty, savory<br />

flavors of miso—fermented soybean paste—are<br />

essential to numerous dishes like soups, dressings,<br />

glazes, and pickles.<br />

Making miso is still a revered art, and the flavors,<br />

textures, and aromas of different varieties<br />

are judged much like fine wine. After steaming<br />

and crushing soybeans, traditional miso houses<br />

add sea salt and koji, a culture made from grains<br />

like rice and barley that triggers fermentation.<br />

types of miso:<br />

Variables like the type of koji, the ratio of soybeans<br />

to koji, salt content, and length of fermentation<br />

lead to innumerable varieties of miso<br />

ranging in color from pale golden yellow to rich<br />

chocolate brown. For flavor-pairing purposes,<br />

think of miso in terms of two broad categories:<br />

light miso—typically called white, yellow, or sweet<br />

miso—and dark miso—red, brown, barley, and<br />

soybean miso.<br />

Generally, the lighter the miso, the sweeter<br />

and more delicate its flavor. Light miso is good<br />

in salads and dressings, and with lighter foods<br />

like fish, chicken, and vege tables (see p. 38 for a<br />

broccoli with miso recipe).<br />

Dark miso, which is fermented longer, will be<br />

saltier and “meatier.” Its rich, robust flavor is<br />

good for adding depth to soups and sauces. Try it<br />

with root vegetables, beans, or winter squash.<br />

Cooking with miso:<br />

Always add miso toward the end of cooking and<br />

never boil it, as high heat will destroy both its<br />

flavor and nutrients. For the smoothest sauces<br />

and soups, whisk miso into an equal amount of<br />

slightly warm broth until smooth, and then gradually<br />

stir the thinned miso back into the pot. Use<br />

about 1 to 1½ Tbs. of miso for every cup of liquid.<br />

Miso is a good substitute for salt or soy sauce or<br />

in place of anchovy paste for vegetarian recipes.<br />

Just remember, miso is quite concentrated in<br />

flavor, so a little goes a long way.<br />

the lighter the<br />

miso’s color, the<br />

more delicate<br />

its flavor.<br />

Buying and storing miso:<br />

Look for miso in plastic tubs or bags in the refrigerated<br />

section of Asian markets or health-food<br />

stores. Miso keeps for up to a year if sealed well<br />

and refrigerated.<br />

finecooking.com 85


test kitchen<br />

Mojo, a magical sauce<br />

In English, the word mojo is pronounced<br />

moe-joe and means magic power. In Spanish<br />

and in cooking parlance, the word is pronounced<br />

moe-hoe and refers to a citrusy garlic sauce. But mojo<br />

the sauce is still magical: It can be used as a marinade<br />

(Grilled Mojo-Marinated Flank Steak, p. 46), dressing, dip,<br />

condiment, and, of course, sauce. Popular throughout the Caribbean<br />

and in Latin America, its specific makeup differs from place to place<br />

as each region puts its own local stamp on it. Additional flavorings<br />

include onion, butter, or cilantro. Mojos may be raw or cooked,<br />

which mellows and sweetens the garlic.<br />

tip<br />

glossary<br />

Don’t throw out<br />

the cilantro stems<br />

When preparing cilantro for<br />

chopping in recipes like the<br />

Spicy Chipotle Shrimp,<br />

Avocado, and Corn Fajitas on<br />

p. 33, you don’t necessarily<br />

have to remove all of the<br />

stems. Cilantro stems are quite<br />

flavorful, so if they’re thin and<br />

tender-crisp (bite one to<br />

check), just chop them up<br />

along with the leaves.<br />

ingredient<br />

Aged<br />

balsamic<br />

vinegar<br />

The Honey-Balsamic<br />

Pulled Pork recipe on<br />

p. 71 calls for an aged<br />

balsamic, but we’re<br />

not asking you to<br />

splurge on the pricey,<br />

ultra-aged stuff.<br />

Instead, we’re looking<br />

for a balsamic that’s<br />

richer, thicker, and<br />

less acidic than the<br />

one you likely use for<br />

your vinaigrette.<br />

Ideally, it’s been aged<br />

for five or more years,<br />

but not all vinegars<br />

include their age on<br />

the label. If that’s the<br />

case, tilt the bottle; if<br />

the liquid is viscous,<br />

it’s a good bet it’s aged<br />

and a bit mellower<br />

than a younger<br />

balsamic.<br />

86 cookfresh summer 2017


ingredient<br />

3 great steaks for the grill<br />

When it comes to throwing<br />

a steak on the grill, flank<br />

steak, skirt steak, and hanger<br />

steak are three of our favorite<br />

choices. These boneless cuts<br />

from the belly area of the steer<br />

are full of rich beefy flavor and<br />

chewy texture. Because they’re<br />

relatively thin with a coarse and<br />

loose grain, they absorb marinades<br />

well. And since they’re<br />

thinly sliced across the grain<br />

before serving, portion sizes<br />

are flexible—a real advantage<br />

when you have a mixed group<br />

of steak lovers and light eaters<br />

coming to dinner.<br />

As its name implies, flank<br />

steak comes from the flank<br />

area of the steer, which is just<br />

in front of the hind legs. Marinated,<br />

grilled flank steak was<br />

the original London broil, a<br />

name now used for many other<br />

beef cuts.<br />

Skirt steak comes from the<br />

belly area in between the flank<br />

and the brisket, which is near<br />

the front legs. Its long, thin,<br />

belt-like shape reflects the<br />

fact that it’s the preferred cut<br />

for fajitas—fajita means “belt”<br />

in Spanish. Try it: Herb-Marinated<br />

Skirt Steaks, p. 62.<br />

Popular in French bistros,<br />

hanger steak is an interior<br />

cut that hangs off the kidney<br />

and supports the diaphragm.<br />

Hanger steak is also known<br />

as butcher’s steak because<br />

butchers tend to save this<br />

prized cut for themselves.<br />

Because there’s only one per<br />

animal and it’s not well known<br />

outside France, it can be hard<br />

to find. If you do come across it<br />

and it still has its center membrane<br />

(as shown at right), trim<br />

it out before cooking—you’ll<br />

end up with two large pieces of<br />

hanger steak after trimming.<br />

skirt<br />

hanger<br />

flank<br />

tip<br />

A quick way to peel<br />

a ton of garlic<br />

The Grilled Pork with Mojo on p. 44<br />

calls for a whopping 50 cloves of<br />

garlic. You could buy peeled garlic to<br />

save yourself the peeling step, but if<br />

it’s not available, you can use a trick<br />

they teach in culinary school: To<br />

peel many cloves at once, put the<br />

cloves in a big metal bowl, and cover<br />

them with another metal bowl<br />

bottom side up. Then, while holding<br />

the bowls tightly together, shake<br />

like crazy. Not only is this kind of fun,<br />

but it also takes most of the skins<br />

right off.<br />

finecooking.com 87


test kitchen<br />

tiP<br />

A better way<br />

to peel a kiwi<br />

Kiwis make a colorful addition<br />

to many dishes, including the<br />

Strawberry and Kiwi tart on<br />

p. 80, but they bruise easily if<br />

handled too much. To peel one<br />

without damaging it, you can<br />

use a knife or a peeler, but<br />

there’s another tool that<br />

leaves the peeled fruit smooth<br />

and rounded instead of<br />

beveled. Here’s how to peel a<br />

kiwi with a spoon: Slice off both<br />

ends with a paring knife. Slide a<br />

soup spoon under the skin, and<br />

holding the spoon steady,<br />

gently turn the kiwi to release it<br />

from the skin.<br />

inGredient<br />

cool cucumbers for salads<br />

enGliSH<br />

PerSian<br />

JaPaneSe<br />

When choosing cucumbers<br />

for summer salads,<br />

such as the Basmati<br />

rice Salad with Mango<br />

and Cucumber on p. 54,<br />

skip the common ones<br />

at the supermarket,<br />

which usually are waxed<br />

for a longer shelf life<br />

and tend to be seedy.<br />

Instead, try one of the<br />

varieties at left. All are<br />

crisp, with small seeds,<br />

and have thin, unwaxed<br />

skin that doesn’t require<br />

peeling.<br />

tiP<br />

create your<br />

own pasta salad<br />

The method for making grain<br />

salads, pp. 54–59, also works<br />

with little pastas like fregola, orzo,<br />

ditalini, and Israeli couscous. Just<br />

keep the following tips in mind<br />

when making the swap.<br />

• Use more vinaigrette. Pasta will<br />

absorb more dressing than grains do.<br />

To compensate, use the entire amount<br />

of the vinaigrette recipe on p. 57 for a<br />

pasta salad.<br />

• Up the salt and vinegar. The flavor of<br />

pasta is more neutral than that of grains,<br />

so you may need to add more vinegar<br />

and salt to the vinaigrette to boost your<br />

salad’s flavor.<br />

• Cook your pasta until just al dente.<br />

Pasta absorbs a lot of vinaigrette and<br />

can get soggy, but if your pasta is firm,<br />

that’s less likely to happen.<br />

• don’t make pasta salad ahead. Serve<br />

it within an hour or two of making, since<br />

it doesn’t hold up as well over time as<br />

salads made with hearty grains.<br />

88 cookfresh summer 2017


Comfort that<br />

looks as good<br />

as it feels.<br />

<br />

SOOTHING GEL<br />

ENERGY-RETURN FOAM<br />

Indulge in the luxurious feel and refreshing support of<br />

a GelPro Elite, the world’s most comfortable floor mat.<br />

Featuring GelPro’s exclusive Dual Comfort Core of<br />

patented gel and energy-return foam, this stylish<br />

comfort mat prevents discomfort and fatigue while<br />

you prep, cook and clean. Available in various sizes,<br />

patterns and colors to complement any space.<br />

1.866.435.6287<br />

GelPro.com<br />

Handcrafted in the USA<br />

with imported top fabric<br />

Select styles at


test kitchen<br />

INGREDIENT<br />

Guava<br />

Although not so well known in the<br />

United States, guava is a popular<br />

fruit in many tropical countries.<br />

Native to Mexico, Central America,<br />

and northern South America, guavas<br />

(guayabas in Spanish) are small round<br />

or oval fruits with a yellow to dark green<br />

skin and white to hot pink flesh.<br />

Fresh guava isn’t in season in the summer, so<br />

you can use either guava jelly or paste in the Cream<br />

Cheese and Guava Swirl Ice Cream on p. 52. Guava<br />

paste is sliceable and similar to quince paste (membrillo).<br />

Guava jelly is looser and spreadable. Both are also<br />

delicious with cheese and crackers. Look for them at the<br />

supermarket or at Latin markets, or see Sources, p. 93.<br />

TIP<br />

TECHNIQUE<br />

What we mean by dice<br />

For the grain salads, pp. 54–59, we call for a variety<br />

of ingredient dice sizes. To “dice” means to cut a food<br />

into cubes, making it look like playing dice—hence the<br />

name. If the food is flat, like a bell pepper, the dice<br />

will be more of a square than a cube. Each size of dice<br />

has its own corresponding measurement, as shown<br />

below. That said, there’s no need to pull a ruler out<br />

every time. Use these dimensions as guidelines, and<br />

try to keep the dice a consistent size so the food<br />

cooks evenly.<br />

Large dice = ¾ inch<br />

Small dice = ¼ inch<br />

A peeler hulls strawberries, too<br />

When you’re prepping strawberries for the Strawberry<br />

Mojitos on p. 53, reach for your peeler. Most vegetable<br />

peelers are designed with a pointed end on the top of the<br />

blade (or on the side, in the case of Y peelers). Its main<br />

purpose is to remove the eyes from potatoes, but it’s also<br />

an effective strawberry huller. Just insert the point below<br />

the stem of the strawberry and twist.<br />

Medium dice = 13 to ½ inch<br />

Fine dice = 18 inch<br />

90 COOKFRESH SUMMER 2017


CREDITS<br />

Many of the recipes and photos in this issue have appeared previously in Fine Cooking. Listed here are the<br />

original authors and issue numbers. Unless otherwise noted, all photos are by Scott Phillips.<br />

make it tonight<br />

Summer Salad with Peas,<br />

Parmesan, Fried Egg, and Bacon,<br />

Mindy Fox, #141<br />

Zucchini, Pea, and Pesto Lasagne,<br />

Ivy Manning, #142<br />

Chicken Horiataki Salad with<br />

Tzatziki, Elizabeth Karmel, #142<br />

Crab and Corn Cakes with Lime<br />

Sour Cream, Jill Silverman<br />

Hough, #136<br />

3 ways<br />

Scallion Oil; Korean-Style Scallion<br />

Pancakes; Lemony Scallion Pilaf,<br />

Julissa Roberts, #129<br />

peaches, savory &<br />

sweet<br />

Sherry Vinegar and Rosemary<br />

Marinated Peaches; Heirloom<br />

Tomato and Peach Salad;<br />

Braised Chicken Thighs with<br />

Savory Marinated Peaches;<br />

Brown Sugar and Thyme<br />

Marinated Peaches; Overnight<br />

Oatmeal with Sweet Marinated<br />

Peaches; Sweet Marinated<br />

Peach Tart with Honey-Yogurt<br />

Mousse, WIlliam Mickelsen, #136<br />

turn up the heat<br />

Spicy Chipotle Shrimp, Avocado,<br />

and Corn Fajitas, from Big Buy<br />

Cooking by Tony Rosenfeld,<br />

photo: Maren Caruso<br />

Bourbon-Marinated Buffalo<br />

Chicken Strips with Maytag Blue<br />

Dip, Aliza Green, #49<br />

Spicy Pan-Fried Noodles with<br />

Tofu, Matthew Card, #130<br />

Crispy Fish Sandwiches with<br />

Wasabi and Ginger, Ian Knauer,<br />

#122<br />

Spicy Asian Roasted Broccoli<br />

and Snap Peas, Julie Grimes<br />

Bottcher, #70<br />

Moroccan Chicken Burgers with<br />

Feta and Carrot Slaw, Karen<br />

Tedesco, #130<br />

farm to spoon<br />

Roasted Vegetable Broth;<br />

Creamy Roasted Pepper and<br />

Tomato Soup; Summer Greens<br />

and Rice Soup; Farmers’<br />

Market Minestrone, Domenica<br />

Marchetti, #130<br />

tropical bites & sips<br />

Grilled Pork with Mojo; Hemingway<br />

Special; Cream Cheese and<br />

Guava Swirl Ice Cream, Julissa<br />

Roberts, #135, photos: Gabriella<br />

Herman<br />

Grilled Mojo-Marinated Flank<br />

Steak, Norman Van Aken, #28<br />

Island-Spiced Chicken Salad with<br />

Mango and Scallions, from Big<br />

Buy Cooking by Tony Rosenfeld,<br />

photo: Maren Caruso<br />

Chi Chi Pache; Lift-Off, Camper<br />

English, #106<br />

Rum-Glazed Pork Skewers with<br />

Coconut Rice, Laraine Perri,<br />

#129<br />

Jamaican Rice and Peas, Mark<br />

Henry, #51<br />

Spicy Papaya Salad, Julissa<br />

Roberts, #126<br />

Hawaiian Garlic Shrimp, Dabney<br />

Gough, #130<br />

Strawberry Mojito, Adeena<br />

Sussman, #123<br />

Plátanos Maduros Fritos, Julissa<br />

Roberts, #124<br />

the new summer side<br />

Spelt Salad with Cherry Tomatoes<br />

and Zucchini; Millet Salad with<br />

Avocado and Citrus; Basmati<br />

Rice Salad with Mango and<br />

Cucumber; Bulgur Salad with<br />

Carrots and Peppers; Farro<br />

Salad with Artichokes and<br />

Fennel; Brown Rice Salad with<br />

Apples and Cheddar; Barley<br />

Salad with Peas and Asparagus;<br />

Quinoa Salad with Pears and<br />

Dried Cherries; Wheat Berry<br />

Salad with Green Beans, Joanne<br />

Weir, #117<br />

a simple summertime<br />

supper<br />

Olive Oil–Fried Almonds;<br />

Herb-Marinated Skirt Steaks<br />

with Pesto-Style Salsa Verde;<br />

Sun-Ripened Tomato and<br />

Olive Salad; Romaine Hearts<br />

with Lemon Vinaigrette; Berry<br />

Buttermilk Cake with Vanilla-<br />

Scented Crème Fraîche, Maria<br />

Helm Sinskey, #72<br />

cook with honey<br />

Zucchini and Corn Pancakes with<br />

Greek Yogurt and Honey, from<br />

Fresh from the Farm by Susie<br />

Middleton, photo: Alexandra<br />

Grablewski<br />

Honey-Balsamic Pulled Pork<br />

with Avocado Relish, Bruce<br />

Weinstein, Mark Scarbrough,<br />

#134<br />

Broiled Grapefruit with Honey,<br />

Vanilla, and Cardamom, Ruth<br />

Lively, #96<br />

Mango-Honey-Mint Sorbet,<br />

Ronne Day, #117<br />

Fried Chicken with Paprika<br />

and Honey Butter, Christine<br />

Cikowski, Joshua Kulp,<br />

#136<br />

Honey-Chipotle Glazed Flank<br />

Steak, Julissa Roberts, #132<br />

Mixed Herb Salad with Honey-<br />

Lime Dressing, Ed Schoenfeld,<br />

#100<br />

Carrot Salad with Walnut Oil and<br />

Honey, Dan Barber, #85<br />

berry sweets<br />

Summer Berry Trifle, Pam<br />

Anderson, #100<br />

Blackberry Ice Cream, Bruce<br />

Weinstein, Mark Scarbrough,<br />

#136<br />

Strawberry-Yogurt Brûlée,<br />

Adeena Sussman, #123<br />

Blueberry Crostata, Bruce<br />

Weinstein, Mark Scarbrough,<br />

#136<br />

Strawberry and Kiwi Tart with<br />

Honey Cream, Jennifer Yee,<br />

#137, photo: Andre Baranowski<br />

Lemon-Buttermilk Chiffon Cake<br />

with Raspberry Sauce, Abigail<br />

Johnson Dodge, #135<br />

Some of the recipes<br />

and photos in this issue<br />

were excerpted from<br />

these books:<br />

Big Buy Cooking by Fine Cooking<br />

(The Taunton Press, 2010);<br />

photos © Maren Caruso; food<br />

stylist: Katie Christ.<br />

SuSie Middleton<br />

Fresh from the Farm by<br />

Susie Middleton (The Taunton<br />

Press, 2014); photos ©<br />

Alexandra Grablewski & Susie<br />

Middleton; food stylist: Mark<br />

Pederson.<br />

92 COOKFRESH SUMMER 2017


SOURCES<br />

carrot salad with<br />

walnut oil and<br />

honey, page 75<br />

• International Collection<br />

Walnut Oil, $5.79 for<br />

8.45 oz., Plummarket.com,<br />

855-758-6627.<br />

spicy chipotle shrimp,<br />

avocado, and corn<br />

fajitas, page 33<br />

• La Morena Chipotles in Adobo,<br />

$5.50 per 13-oz. can,<br />

Mexgrocer.com, 877-463-9476.<br />

chi chi pache, page 49<br />

• Angostura bitters, $10.99 for 4 oz., Bevmo.com,<br />

877-772-3866.<br />

• St. Elizabeth Allspice Dram, $29.99 for 750 ml,<br />

Shoppersvineyard.com, 973-916-0707.<br />

• Coco Lopez coconut cream, $3.49 for 15 oz.,<br />

Cocolopez.elsstore.com, 630-343-0240.<br />

blackberry ice cream,<br />

page 77<br />

• Cuisinart Pure Indulgence Ice<br />

Cream Machine, ICE-30BC,<br />

$89.95, Cuisinart.com,<br />

800-211-9604.<br />

TO SHOOT<br />

crispy fish sandwiches<br />

with wasabi and<br />

ginger, page 37<br />

• Wasabi powder, $4.95 per 0.88-oz.<br />

can, Thrivemarket.com.<br />

cream cheese and guava<br />

swirl ice cream, page 52<br />

From Mexgrocer.com, 877-463-9476:<br />

• Guava paste, $4.95 for 21 oz.<br />

• Guava jelly, $6.95 for 17 oz.<br />

peaches, savory &<br />

sweet, pages 24–31<br />

• McCann’s steel-cut oats,<br />

$7.44 for 28 oz., Vitacost.com,<br />

800-381-0759.<br />

• Chia seeds, $11.39 for 16 oz.,<br />

Bobsredmill.com, 800-349-2173.<br />

lemon-buttermilk<br />

chiffon cake, page 82<br />

• Nordic Ware Angel Food Cake Pan,<br />

$25, Surlatable.com,<br />

800-243-0852.<br />

FINECOOKING.COM 93


nutrition<br />

Recipe<br />

Calories<br />

(kcal)<br />

Fat Cal<br />

(kcal)<br />

Protein<br />

(g)<br />

Carb<br />

(g)<br />

Total<br />

Fat (g)<br />

Sat Fat<br />

(g)<br />

Mono<br />

Fat (g)<br />

Poly<br />

Fat (g)<br />

Chol<br />

(mg)<br />

Sodium<br />

(mg)<br />

Fiber<br />

(g)<br />

MAKE IT TONIGHT, p. 15<br />

Summer Salad w/Peas, Parmesan, Egg, and Bacon 420 330 14 9 38 7 20 8 200 470 3<br />

Zucchini, Pea, and Pesto Lasagne 380 180 16 35 20 10 5 3 50 210 4<br />

Chicken Horiataki Salad with Tzatziki 540 200 38 48 22 7 12 2.5 80 1100 5<br />

Crab and Corn Cakes with Lime Sour Cream 480 260 33 25 29 8 10 7 245 990 2<br />

3 WAYS, p. 22<br />

Scallion Oil (per 2 Tbs.) 240 240 0 0 27 2.5 4.5 19 0 0 0<br />

Korean-Style Scallion Pancakes 180 40 6 30 4.5 1 1.5 1.5 45 520 2<br />

Lemony Scallion Pilaf 320 90 8 49 10 6 2.5 1 25 400 3<br />

PEACHES, SAVORY & SWEET, p. 24<br />

Sherry Vinegar and Rosemary Marinated Peaches 150 110 1 8 12 1.5 9 1.5 0 10 1<br />

Heirloom Tomato and Peach Salad 260 170 3 20 19 2.5 13 2 0 350 4<br />

Braised Chicken Thighs w/Savory Marinated Peaches 570 350 36 14 39 10 20 6 190 630 2<br />

Brown Sugar and Thyme Marinated Peaches 90 0 1 21 0 0 0 0 0 20 1<br />

Overnight Oatmeal with Sweet Marinated Peaches 350 110 9 53 12 1.5 2.5 8 0 75 7<br />

Sweet Marinated Peach Tart with Mousse 470 250 7 48 28 18 7 1 95 160 1<br />

TURN UP THE HEAT, p. 32<br />

Spicy Chipotle Shrimp, Avocado, and Corn Fajitas 520 230 28 48 25 3.5 16 4 170 660 8<br />

Bourbon-Marinated Buffalo Chicken Strips w/Dip 420 290 19 12 32 8 15 2 90 830 2<br />

Spicy Pan-Fried Noodles with Tofu 370 140 16 47 16 1.5 8 5 0 1760 4<br />

Crispy Fish Sandwiches with Wasabi and Ginger 650 420 26 31 47 7 16 22 140 1420 2<br />

Spicy Asian Roasted Broccoli and Snap Peas 290 180 7 24 20 3 11 5 0 800 6<br />

Moroccan Chicken Burgers with Feta and Carrot Slaw 360 170 26 23 19 5 9 3 110 730 4<br />

FARM TO SPOON, p. 40<br />

Roasted Vegetable Broth (per 1 cup) 70 30 2 2 3.5 0 2.5 0 0 280 0<br />

Creamy Roasted Pepper and Tomato Soup 370 240 5 26 27 5 17 3 15 450 5<br />

Summer Greens and Rice Soup 320 110 9 37 13 2 8 1.5 0 650 4<br />

Farmers’ Market Minestrone 350 140 9 39 15 2.5 10 2 0 550 6<br />

TROPICAL BITES & SIPS, p. 44<br />

Grilled Pork with Mojo 430 260 32 10 29 7 17 3 110 1400 1<br />

Hemingway Special 230 0 0 22 0 0 0 0 0 5 0<br />

Grilled Mojo-Marinated Flank Steak 440 330 24 5 36 8 25 3 60 660 1<br />

Island-Spiced Chicken Salad w/Mango and Scallions 340 170 28 15 19 4 9 4.5 100 470 2<br />

Chi Chi Pache 300 60 1 26 6 6 0 0 0 15 0<br />

Rum-Glazed Pork Skewers with Coconut Rice 550 190 25 53 22 8 7 5 80 720 3<br />

Jamaican Rice and Peas 270 80 7 41 9 8 0 0 0 180 4<br />

Lift-Off 250 0 0 12 0 0 0 0 0 10 0<br />

Spicy Papaya Salad 90 25 1 16 2.5 0 1.5 0 0 105 3<br />

94 cookfresh summer 2017


Recipe<br />

Calories<br />

(kcal)<br />

Fat Cal<br />

(kcal)<br />

Protein<br />

(g)<br />

Carb<br />

(g)<br />

Total<br />

Fat (g)<br />

Sat Fat<br />

(g)<br />

Mono<br />

Fat (g)<br />

Poly<br />

Fat (g)<br />

Chol<br />

(mg)<br />

Sodium<br />

(mg)<br />

Fiber<br />

(g)<br />

Hawaiian Garlic Shrimp 360 190 24 10 21 7 4 8 195 290 1<br />

Cream Cheese and Guava Swirl Ice Cream 320 180 2 32 20 12 5 1 70 110 1<br />

Strawberry Mojito 210 0 1 20 0 0 0 0 0 0 2<br />

Plátanos Maduros Fritos 150 60 1 24 7 1 3 3 0 0 2<br />

THE NEW SUMMER SIDE, p. 54<br />

Spelt Salad with Cherry Tomatoes and Zucchini 300 120 8 39 14 2 9 2 0 290 6<br />

Millet Salad with Avocado and Citrus 460 150 10 70 16 2.5 10 3 0 290 5<br />

Basmati Rice Salad with Mango and Cucumber 320 130 4 45 14 2 10 2 0 290 1<br />

Bulgur Salad with Carrots and Peppers 300 160 7 29 18 4.5 11 2.5 15 460 7<br />

Farro Salad with Artichokes and Fennel 390 190 11 45 21 2.5 12 5 0 380 8<br />

Brown Rice Salad with Apples and Cheddar 420 190 11 48 21 5 13 3 15 370 6<br />

Barley Salad with Peas and Asparagus 250 110 5 31 13 2 9 1.5 0 300 7<br />

Quinoa Salad with Pears and Dried Cherries 400 180 7 52 20 3 10 6 5 310 6<br />

Wheat Berry Salad with Green Beans 340 180 8 37 20 4.5 11 4 10 490 5<br />

A SIMPLE SUMMERTIME SUPPER, p. 60<br />

Olive Oil–Fried Almonds 243 197 8 7 22 2 14 5 0 298 4<br />

Herb-Marinated Skirt Steaks w/Salsa Verde 476 263 48 2 29 9 18 2 129 433 0<br />

Pesto-Style Salsa Verde 220 210 1 2 23 3 18 2 0 94 1<br />

Sun-Ripened Tomato and Olive Salad 166 128 2 9 14 2 11 2 0 720 2<br />

Romaine Hearts with Vinaigrette 101 90 1 2 10 2 7 1 2 155 0<br />

Berry Buttermilk Cake w/Vanilla Crème Fraîche 355 138 5 48 16 10 3 1 77 295 1<br />

COOK WITH HONEY, p. 68<br />

Zucchini and Corn Pancakes w/Yogurt and Honey 160 90 3 14 10 4 5 1 30 190 1<br />

Honey-Balsamic Pulled Pork (per 1 cup pork & 1/4 of relish) 500 250 42 21 28 6 15 4.5 130 570 7<br />

Broiled Grapefruit with Honey, Vanilla & Cardamom 90 0 1 22 0 0 0 0 0 0 2<br />

Mango-Honey-Mint Sorbet 120 5 1 31 0 0 0 0 0 70 1<br />

Fried Chicken with Paprika and Honey Butter 830 450 28 69 51 20 20 8 175 1690 2<br />

Honey-Chipotle Glazed Flank Steak 210 90 24 6 10 3.5 5 .5 70 530 0<br />

Mixed Herb Salad with Honey-Lime Dressing 45 5 2 10 0 0 0 0 0 270 2<br />

Carrot Salad with Walnut Oil and Honey 290 180 5 27 20 2 3.5 14 0 210 5<br />

BERRY SWEETS, p. 76<br />

Summer Berry Trifle 310 100 5 44 11 7 3 .5 40 23 2<br />

Blackberry Ice Cream 780 460 6 80 51 33 13 2.5 160 240 3<br />

Strawberry-Yogurt Brûlée 220 100 8 22 12 9 2 0 20 40 1<br />

Blueberry Crostata 300 120 4 40 14 8 4 1 55 10 2<br />

Strawberry and Kiwi Tart with Honey Cream 450 180 7 62 20 12 5 1 120 70 4<br />

Lemon-Buttermilk Chiffon Cake w/Raspberry Sauce 300 110 5 44 12 1.5 7 3.5 80 240 3<br />

The nutritional analyses have been calculated by a registered dietitian at Nutritional Solutions in Melville, New York. When a recipe gives a choice of ingredients, the first choice is the one used. Optional ingredients<br />

with measured amounts are included; ingredients with out specific quantities are not. Analyses are per serving; when a range of ingredient amounts or servings is given, the smaller amount or portion is<br />

used. When the quantities of salt and pepper aren’t specified, the analysis is based on 1/4 tsp. salt and 1/8 tsp. pepper per serving for entrées, and 1/8 tsp. salt and 1/1 6 tsp. pepper per serving for side dishes.<br />

finecooking.com 95


RECIPE INDEX<br />

Cover Recipe<br />

Chicken Horiataki Salad<br />

with Tzatziki ................................................... 18<br />

Beef<br />

Grilled Mojo-Marinated Flank Steak ..... 46<br />

Herb-Marinated Skirt Steaks<br />

with Pesto-Style Salsa Verde ..................62<br />

Honey-Chipotle<br />

Glazed Flank Steak ......................................74<br />

Pork & Lamb<br />

Grilled Pork With Mojo .............................. 44<br />

Honey-Balsamic Pulled Pork<br />

with Avocado Relish ................................... 71<br />

Rum-Glazed Pork Skewers with<br />

Coconut Rice ............................................... 49<br />

Summer Salad with Peas,<br />

Parmesan, Fried Egg, and Bacon ........... 16<br />

Poultry<br />

Basil-Tomato Stuffed<br />

Chicken Breasts .......................................... 98<br />

Bourbon-Marinated<br />

Buffalo Chicken Strips<br />

with Maytag Blue Dip ..................................35<br />

Braised Chicken Thighs with<br />

Savory Marinated Peaches ......................29<br />

Chicken Horiataki Salad<br />

with Tzatziki ...................................................18<br />

Fried Chicken with Paprika<br />

and Honey Butter ........................................72<br />

Island-Spiced Chicken Salad<br />

with Mango and Scallions ........................ 48<br />

Moroccan Chicken Burgers with<br />

Feta and Carrot Slaw ................................. 39<br />

Fish & Shellfish<br />

Crab and Corn Cakes with Lime<br />

Sour Cream .................................................. 20<br />

Crispy Fish Sandwiches with<br />

Wasabi and Ginger ......................................37<br />

Hawaiian Garlic Shrimp ............................. 51<br />

Spicy Chipotle Shrimp, Avocado,<br />

and Corn Fajitas .......................................... 33<br />

Pasta, Grains & Nuts<br />

Olive-Oil–Fried Almonds ......................... 62<br />

Spicy Pan-Fried Noodles with Tofu ...... 36<br />

Zucchini, Pea, and Pesto Lasagne .........16<br />

Vegetarian Mains<br />

Korean-Style Scallion Pancakes .............23<br />

Spicy Pan-Fried Noodles with Tofu ...... 36<br />

p. 49<br />

Zucchini and Corn Pancakes with<br />

Greek Yogurt and Honey ......................... 68<br />

Zucchini Boats with Basil<br />

Scrambled Eggs .......................................... 98<br />

Zucchini, Pea, and Pesto Lasagne ......... 16<br />

Salads<br />

Carrot Salad with Walnut<br />

Oil and Honey ...............................................75<br />

Heirloom Tomato and Peach Salad ......26<br />

Mixed Herb Salad with<br />

Honey-Lime Dressing ................................75<br />

Romaine Hearts with Lemon<br />

Vinaigrette .....................................................65<br />

Spicy Papaya Salad ..................................... 51<br />

Summer Salad with Peas,<br />

Parmesan, Fried Egg, and Bacon ........... 16<br />

Sun-Ripened Tomato and<br />

Olive Salad .................................................... 64<br />

Soups & Stews<br />

Creamy Roasted Pepper and<br />

Tomato Soup ................................................ 41<br />

Farmers’ Market Minestrone ...................43<br />

Roasted Vegetable Broth ......................... 41<br />

Summer Greens and Rice Soup .............42<br />

Breakfast<br />

Broiled Grapefruit with Honey,<br />

Vanilla, and Cardamom ............................. 71<br />

Overnight Oatmeal with Sweet<br />

Marinated Peaches .................................... 30<br />

Side Dishes<br />

Barley Salad with Peas<br />

and Asparagus ..............................................55<br />

Basmati Rice Salad with Mango<br />

and Cucumber .............................................54<br />

Brown Rice Salad with Apples<br />

and Cheddar .................................................55<br />

Brown Sugar and Thyme<br />

Marinated Peaches .................................... 30<br />

Bulgur Salad with Carrots<br />

and Peppers ..................................................54<br />

Farro Salad with Artichokes<br />

and Fennel .....................................................55<br />

96 COOKFRESH SUMMER 2017


Mango-Honey-Mint Sorbet ...................... 72<br />

Plum Meringue Fool ....................................98<br />

Raspberry Lemonade ................................98<br />

Strawberry and Kiwi Tart with<br />

Honey Cream ............................................... 80<br />

Strawberry Mojito ........................................ 53<br />

Strawberry-Yogurt Brûlée .........................78<br />

Summer Berry Trifle ................................... 77<br />

Sweet Marinated Peach Tart<br />

with Honey-Yogurt Mousse .......................31<br />

p. 42<br />

Grilled Yellow Squash with<br />

Lime Vinaigrette ..........................................98<br />

Jamaican Rice and Peas ...........................50<br />

Lemony Scallion Pilaf ................................. 23<br />

Millet Salad with<br />

Avocado and Citrus ....................................54<br />

Plátanos Maduros Fritos ........................... 53<br />

Quinoa Salad with Pears<br />

and Dried Cherries ...................................... 55<br />

Raspberry-Goat Cheese Pizza ...............98<br />

Raspberry-Ricotta Crostini ......................98<br />

Sherry Vinegar and Rosemary<br />

Marinated Peaches .....................................26<br />

Spelt Salad with Cherry Tomatoes<br />

and Zucchini .................................................54<br />

Spicy Asian Roasted Broccoli<br />

and Snap Peas ..............................................38<br />

Spicy Papaya Salad ......................................51<br />

Squash Fritters .............................................98<br />

Summer Squash Gratin .............................98<br />

Tomato-Basil-<br />

Hummus Bruschetta .................................98<br />

Wheat Berry Salad with Green<br />

Beans and Corn ...........................................59<br />

Sauces & Toppings<br />

Avocado Relish ..............................................71<br />

Honey Butter................................................. 72<br />

Maytag Blue Dip ........................................... 35<br />

Pesto-Style Salsa Verde ...........................63<br />

Roasted Plum and<br />

Shallot Chutney ...........................................98<br />

Scallion Oil ..................................................... 22<br />

Desserts & Beverages<br />

Berry Buttermilk Cake with<br />

Vanilla-Scented Crème Fraîche .............66<br />

Blackberry Ice Cream ................................ 77<br />

Blueberry Crostata .....................................78<br />

Chi Chi Pache ................................................49<br />

Cream Cheese and Guava<br />

Swirl Ice Cream............................................. 52<br />

Grilled Plums with<br />

Vanilla Ice Cream .........................................98<br />

Hemingway Special ....................................46<br />

Lemon-Buttermilk Chiffon<br />

Cake with Raspberry Sauce .....................82<br />

Lift-Off ............................................................50<br />

p. 72<br />

FINECOOKING.COM 97


WHAT WE’RE COOKING NOW<br />

Summer’s Best<br />

Twelve ways to use four seasonal ingredients we can’t get enough of.<br />

Summer Squash<br />

Squash Fritters<br />

Grate two medium squash and let<br />

drain for 20 minutes. In a large<br />

bowl, whisk three beaten eggs with<br />

about ¾ cup flour, then mix in some<br />

crumbled feta or chèvre, the<br />

squash, and chopped fresh mint.<br />

Season with salt and pepper and<br />

thin with a little milk to a thick<br />

batter. Cook tablespoonfuls of<br />

batter in a hot oiled pan until<br />

golden brown on both sides. Serve<br />

with thick yogurt and harissa.<br />

Summer Squash Gratin<br />

Cut small zucchini or yellow<br />

summer squash into half-moons.<br />

Toss with olive oil, fresh rosemary,<br />

panko, salt, and pepper. Arrange in<br />

a baking dish and top with Grana<br />

Padano. Bake until the cheese<br />

starts to brown.<br />

Grilled Yellow Squash with<br />

Lime Vinaigrette<br />

Slice yellow squash diagonally<br />

into ½-inch-thick planks. Brush<br />

with olive oil and sprinkle with<br />

salt. Grill on both sides over high<br />

heat until well browned and just<br />

tender. Whisk together extra-virgin<br />

olive oil, lime juice, chipotle chile<br />

powder, and salt and drizzle over<br />

the squash.<br />

Plums<br />

Plum Meringue Fool<br />

Gently cook chopped plums with<br />

ground cardamom and sugar until<br />

they start to soften and collapse.<br />

Mash the plums roughly with a<br />

fork. Let cool, then swirl the plum<br />

compote into a blend of half<br />

whipped cream and half Greek<br />

yogurt. Layer in dessert glasses<br />

with crumbled meringue cookies.<br />

Roasted Plum and<br />

Shallot Chutney<br />

In a bowl, toss halved plums and<br />

shallots with olive oil, dark brown<br />

sugar, grated orange zest, red<br />

pepper flakes, and salt. Arrange<br />

cut side down in a single layer on<br />

a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet.<br />

Roast at 400°F until tender, about<br />

20 minutes. Let cool and coarsely<br />

chop. Serve with pork or duck.<br />

Grilled Plums with<br />

Vanilla Ice Cream<br />

Lightly brush halved, pitted, firmripe<br />

plums with vegetable oil and<br />

grill cut side down over mediumhigh,<br />

indirect heat until just beginning<br />

to brown. Flip the plums and<br />

continue grilling until tender.<br />

Serve over vanilla ice cream with<br />

a sprinkle of sugar and a pinch<br />

of salt.<br />

Basil<br />

Basil-Tomato Stuffed<br />

Chicken Breasts<br />

Pound boneless, skinless chicken<br />

breasts thin. Place basil leaves<br />

and thinly sliced fresh tomato on<br />

one half of each breast. Fold the<br />

other half over, and close with<br />

toothpicks. Coat in beaten egg<br />

and panko. Sauté in olive oil<br />

until golden brown, and finish<br />

cooking in the oven. Serve with<br />

lemon wedges.<br />

Zucchini Boats with Basil<br />

Scrambled Eggs<br />

Halve 2 zucchini lengthwise;<br />

scoop out and chop the flesh.<br />

Scramble 6 large eggs until barely<br />

set. Gently fold the zucchini flesh,<br />

¼ cup mascarpone, 2 Tbs. thinly<br />

sliced basil, salt, and pepper into<br />

the eggs. Spoon the egg mixture<br />

into the zucchini halves and top<br />

with shredded mozzarella. Bake<br />

in a medium-hot oven until the<br />

zucchini is crisp-tender and the<br />

mozzarella is melted and bubbly,<br />

5 to 10 minutes.<br />

Tomato-Basil-Hummus<br />

Bruschetta<br />

Toss diced tomatoes with minced<br />

garlic and shallot, lemon juice,<br />

olive oil, salt, and pepper. Chop<br />

a large handful of basil, and toss<br />

gently with the tomatoes. Grill or<br />

toast a sliced baguette. Spread<br />

with some hummus and top with<br />

the tomatoes.<br />

Raspberries<br />

Raspberry-Ricotta Crostini<br />

Lightly toast baguette slices, and<br />

top with ricotta, fresh raspberries,<br />

toasted pine nuts, and a drizzle<br />

of honey.<br />

Raspberry Lemonade<br />

Purée equal parts raspberries and<br />

water in a blender. Strain and add<br />

lemon juice and agave syrup to<br />

taste. Serve over ice with a twist<br />

of lemon.<br />

Raspberry-Goat Cheese Pizza<br />

Spread mild goat cheese on<br />

stretched pizza dough. Sprinkle<br />

with fresh, whole raspberries,<br />

chopped walnuts, and fresh rosemary<br />

leaves. Drizzle with honey,<br />

and bake until the crust is golden.<br />

98 COOKFRESH SUMMER 2017


NOW ON PBS!<br />

ALL NEW<br />

SEASON 4<br />

Moveable Feast with Fine Cooking<br />

returns for Season 4 with host<br />

Pete Evans stirring up fun. Join us<br />

for pop-up feasts across the country –<br />

new locations, new chefs and artisans,<br />

and fabulous new dishes.<br />

For showtimes, recipes,<br />

and more, go to<br />

finecooking.tv<br />

NEW! Recipes from Season 1 and 2 available in our cookbook.<br />

Previous seasons available on DVD.<br />

Visit TauntonStore.com<br />

“Moveable Feast with Fine Cooking”<br />

is a production of WGBH Boston and<br />

distributed by American Public Television.<br />

SEA ! SALT<br />

© 2016 The Taunton Press

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!