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Host an Easy (and Delicious) Cookout<br />

<strong>CookFresh</strong><br />

THE BEST OF FINE COOKING<br />

30+ SENSATIONAL SIDE DISHES<br />

Flavor-Packed Summer Recipes<br />

30-MINUTE<br />

Farmstand<br />

Dinners<br />

CREATE YOUR OWN<br />

Healthy<br />

Grain<br />

Salads<br />

Light,<br />

seasonal<br />

SOUPS &<br />

SALADS<br />

Just-Picked<br />

Berry<br />

Desserts<br />

COOKFRESH SUMMER 2017<br />

www.finecooking.com<br />

Chicken<br />

Horiataki Salad<br />

with Tzatziki, p. 18


JOIN OUR<br />

EXPLORE OUR RECIPES<br />

on<br />

COLAVITARECIPES.COM<br />

facebook.com/ColavitaOliveOil<br />

ColavitaOil<br />

youtube.com/ColavitaOliveOil<br />

@ColavitaOil<br />

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Colavita Olive Oil


THE BEGINNING OF EXTRAORDINARY<br />

Dijon mustard with Horseradish.<br />

Meals, Maille, Memories.<br />

maille.com


contents<br />

Cookfresh summer 2017, No. 121<br />

features<br />

24 peaches, savory &<br />

sweet<br />

Two marinades take this summer<br />

favorite fruit to new places.<br />

32 turn up the heat<br />

Serve suppers with a kick when<br />

you cook with flavor-packed,<br />

spicy ingredients.<br />

40 farm to spoon<br />

In Italy, they eat soup in summer<br />

(and so should you).<br />

44 tropical bites & sips<br />

Take backyard barbecue recipes to<br />

the bright and flavorful tropics.<br />

54 the new summer side<br />

Make-ahead and endlessly versatile,<br />

grain salad just might be the perfect<br />

potluck dish.<br />

60 a simple<br />

summertime supper<br />

Juicy grilled steak, fresh summer<br />

salads, and a homey berry buttermilk<br />

cake star in this easy outdoor menu.<br />

68 cook with honey<br />

Honey lends a distinctive<br />

sweetness to suppers, snacks,<br />

desserts, and more.<br />

76 berry sweets<br />

Make the most of fresh, ripe berries<br />

in tempting seasonal desserts.<br />

Sweet Marinated Peach<br />

Tart with Honey-Yogurt<br />

Mousse, p. 31<br />

www.finecooking.com


22<br />

85<br />

88<br />

90<br />

93<br />

84<br />

DEPARTMENTS<br />

8 Welcome<br />

10 On the Web<br />

15 Make It Tonight<br />

Fast and fresh meals, any night<br />

of the week.<br />

22 3 Ways with Scallions<br />

Versatile and affordable, these green onions<br />

add fresh flavor to recipes of all kinds.<br />

84 Test Kitchen<br />

Tips, techniques, ingredients.<br />

92 Credits<br />

93 Sources<br />

94 Nutrition<br />

96 Recipe Index<br />

98 What We’re Cooking Now<br />

Twelve ways to use four seasonal<br />

ingredients we can’t get enough of.<br />

Pp<br />

Cover photography by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day.<br />

www.finecooking.com<br />

6 COOKFRESH SUMMER 2017


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finecooking.com 7


welcome<br />

<strong>CookFresh</strong><br />

the best of fine cooking<br />

Issue Editor<br />

Issue Art Director<br />

Issue Copy Editor<br />

Sarah Opdahl<br />

Brittany Carlson<br />

Diane Sinitsky<br />

Sun-Ripened<br />

Tomato and Olive<br />

Salad, p. 64<br />

Summer’s Gifts<br />

welcome summer! We’re ready for all that the season has to offer: juicy peaches;<br />

ripe, flavorful tomatoes; bright berries; and more. Whether you’re happily hauling<br />

home bags full of goodies from the farmers’ market or you’re knee-deep in zucchini<br />

from the garden, you’ve got the right magazine in hand. This special issue of Fine<br />

Cooking was developed to turn all of that lovely produce into fantastic dishes.<br />

Here, you’ll find it all: easy dinners (Moroccan Chicken Burgers with Feta<br />

and Carrot Slaw, p. 39); grilled favorites (Herb-Marinated Skirt Steaks, p. 62);<br />

backyard barbecue knockouts (Grilled Pork with Mojo, p. 44); standout desserts<br />

(Strawberry and Kiwi Tart with Honey Cream, p. 80); and everything in between.<br />

To make healthier eating even easier, we’ve provided icons to help you identify<br />

which recipes fit your eating and cooking style, from quick to vegetarian to<br />

make-ahead (see below). Now you have all the tools you’ll need to turn that warmweather<br />

produce into delicious dishes all season long.<br />

—The Fine Cooking Editors<br />

A guide to making healthy choices<br />

These icons are located throughout this issue of <strong>CookFresh</strong> to help you<br />

choose recipes that match your needs.<br />

Editorial Director<br />

Art Director<br />

Senior Editors<br />

Food Editor<br />

Senior Copy/<br />

Production Editor<br />

Staff Photographer<br />

Senior Food<br />

Editor/Stylist<br />

Food Editor/<br />

Test Kitchen Manager<br />

Art/Production<br />

Coordinator<br />

Test Kitchen Assistant<br />

Test Kitchen Intern<br />

Editors at Large<br />

Contributing Editors<br />

Senior Managing Editor,<br />

Books<br />

Kathy Kingsley<br />

Teresa Fernandes<br />

Joanne Smart<br />

Lisa Lahey<br />

Chris Hoelck<br />

Scott Phillips<br />

Ronne Day<br />

Diana Andrews<br />

Tinsley Morrison<br />

Joan Velush<br />

William Stewart<br />

Jennifer Armentrout<br />

Susie Middleton<br />

Abigail Johnson Dodge<br />

Rebecca Freedman<br />

Tony Rosenfeld<br />

Molly Stevens<br />

Jill Silverman Hough<br />

(drinks)<br />

Joanne Weir<br />

Carolyn Mandarano<br />

FineCooking.com<br />

Senior Web Producer Sarah Breckenridge<br />

Video Director Colin Russell<br />

The Best of Fine Cooking: (ISSN: 1931-8227)<br />

is published by The Taunton Press, Inc.,<br />

Newtown, CT 06470-5506. Telephone<br />

203-426-8171. Canadian GST paid registration<br />

#123210981.<br />

Printed in the USA<br />

Quick: Under 30 minutes.<br />

Healthy: Calories are 550 or<br />

fewer; saturated fat is 5 grams<br />

or fewer; cholesterol is 300 mg<br />

or fewer.<br />

Vegetarian: May contain<br />

eggs and dairy ingredients.<br />

wheat-free: Contains no<br />

wheat or wheat products.<br />

Please note, icon does not<br />

indicate gluten-free.<br />

Make ahead: Can be<br />

completely prepared ahead<br />

(may need reheating and a<br />

garnish to serve).<br />

8 cookfresh summer 2017


The Original Scoop #1520, size 20<br />

Scooping Perfection ...<br />

Publisher John Boland<br />

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FINECOOKING.COM 9


FINE COOKING DIGITAL<br />

On the Web<br />

Make FineCooking.com your destination for seasonal summer recipes,<br />

how-tos, videos, and more.<br />

Summer<br />

GAZPACHO Recipes<br />

The soups on pp. 40–43 are bursting with summer’s<br />

best produce, but don’t forget about the<br />

original summer soup: gazpacho. Our collection<br />

includes the ultimate classic recipe, along with<br />

regional variations (white cucumber-and-almond<br />

gazpacho) and creative riffs, like a spicy-sweet<br />

watermelon gazpacho and hors d’oeuvre-size<br />

shooters. Find the recipes at FineCooking.com/<br />

gazpacho.<br />

8 Summer<br />

Sauces for<br />

Quick, Easy<br />

Meals<br />

The best summer cooking<br />

is really about NOT<br />

cooking. Days are long and<br />

spent outdoors, so when<br />

dinnertime rolls around,<br />

these simple sauces and<br />

dressings are your secret<br />

weapons. Cook big batches<br />

of grains and veggies ahead<br />

of time, grill some meat, and<br />

mix and match them with<br />

this arsenal of homemade<br />

condiments. Get the recipe<br />

collection at FineCooking<br />

.com/summer-sauces.<br />

Digital Editions<br />

Fine Cooking’s tablet editions—<br />

available for iPad, Windows, and<br />

Android devices—are the same<br />

gorgeous issues you love but full<br />

of interactive extras like videos<br />

and search. Download the app at<br />

FineCooking.comapp. Access is<br />

free with your print subscription.<br />

Connect with Fine Cooking!<br />

Follow us on:<br />

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10 COOKFRESH SUMMER 2017


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finecooking.com 11


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5 ripe heirloom tomatoes,<br />

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6 medium fresh figs, halved or<br />

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1 lb. fresh mozzarella, sliced<br />

2 Tbs. fresh basil leaves<br />

1 to 2 Tbs. balsamic glaze<br />

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12 COOKFRESH SUMMER 2017<br />

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make it tonight<br />

Fast and fresh meals, any night of the week.<br />

Summer Salad with<br />

Peas, Parmesan, Fried<br />

Egg, and Bacon, p. 16<br />

finecooking.com 15


summer salad with<br />

peas, parmesan,<br />

fried egg, and bacon<br />

Bacon and eggs turn a green salad<br />

into a substantial, comforting, and<br />

tasty meal, while peas and tarragon<br />

contribute bright, fresh seasonal<br />

flavors. (See the photo on p. 15.)<br />

Serves 4<br />

4 oz. thick-cut bacon (4 slices), cut<br />

crosswise 1/4 inch thick<br />

3/4 oz. finely grated Grana Padano<br />

or Parmigiano-Reggiano<br />

(about 1/3 cup); more for shaving<br />

2 Tbs. red-wine vinegar<br />

Kosher salt and freshly ground<br />

black pepper<br />

6 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil<br />

2 Tbs. vegetable oil; more as needed<br />

4 large eggs<br />

8 oz. mixed baby greens or similar<br />

2 Tbs. whole fresh tarragon leaves,<br />

plus 1 Tbs. finely chopped for garnish<br />

2/3 cup frozen peas, thawed<br />

2 medium radishes, thinly sliced<br />

2 Tbs. thinly sliced fresh chives<br />

Cook the bacon in a 12-inch nonstick skillet<br />

over medium heat, stirring occasionally,<br />

until crisp, 4 to 5 minutes. Use a slotted<br />

spoon to transfer the bacon to a paper<br />

towel–lined plate, leaving any fat behind in<br />

the skillet.<br />

Meanwhile, combine the grated cheese,<br />

vinegar, and 1/4 tsp. each salt and pepper<br />

in a medium bowl. Gradually whisk in the<br />

olive oil.<br />

Put the skillet over medium-low heat<br />

and add the vegetable oil. When the oil<br />

is hot, crack the eggs into the skillet and<br />

cook, basting the whites occasionally with<br />

the fat, until the whites are set but the<br />

yolks are still runny, 2 to 3 minutes.<br />

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, toss the<br />

greens, tarragon leaves, peas, and<br />

radishes. Lightly dress the salad with some<br />

of the vinaigrette, season with a generous<br />

pinch each salt and pepper, and toss.<br />

Divide the salad among 4 serving plates.<br />

Top each salad with an egg. Drizzle<br />

1/2 Tbs. vinaigrette over each egg, and<br />

season with salt and pepper. Top with<br />

the bacon, shaved cheese, chives, and<br />

chopped tarragon. Serve the remaining<br />

vinaigrette on the side.<br />

zucchini, pea, and pesto lasagne<br />

This free-form, no-bake lasagne features fresh flavors and is much quicker to<br />

make than traditional vegetable lasagne. Serves 4<br />

Kosher salt<br />

6 dried lasagne noodles<br />

2 Tbs. unsalted butter<br />

3 Tbs. pine nuts<br />

1 large zucchini, halved lengthwise<br />

and thinly sliced crosswise<br />

11/4 cups fresh or thawed<br />

frozen peas<br />

1/3 cup thinly sliced shallot<br />

1/3 oz. Grana Padano or Parmigiano-<br />

Reggiano, finely grated (1/3 cup);<br />

more coarsely grated for serving<br />

9 oz. ricotta cheese (about 1 cup)<br />

Freshly ground black pepper<br />

1/2 cup store-bought or homemade<br />

basil pesto<br />

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a<br />

boil. Boil the noodles according to package<br />

directions until al dente. Drain and<br />

rinse under cool water. Cut each noodle in<br />

half crosswise and set aside.<br />

Meanwhile, melt the butter in a 10-inch<br />

skillet over low heat. Add the pine nuts<br />

and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly<br />

browned, about 1 minute. With a slotted<br />

spoon, transfer the nuts to a small bowl.<br />

Increase the heat to medium, add the<br />

zucchini, peas, and shallot, and cook,<br />

stirring occasionally, until tender, about<br />

3 minutes. Add the finely grated cheese<br />

and toss gently to coat.<br />

Season the ricotta with 1/4 tsp. each<br />

salt and pepper. Place one noodle half on<br />

each of 4 plates, and spread a dollop of<br />

ricotta over each one. Divide about half of<br />

the vegetable mixture among the noodles,<br />

spreading it evenly over the cheese. Top<br />

with another noodle and repeat. Top with<br />

a third noodle, the pesto, pine nuts, and<br />

the coarsely grated cheese, and serve.<br />

16 cookfresh Summer 2017


COVER RECIPE<br />

chicken horiataki salad with tzatziki<br />

Horiataki is essentially what we outside of Greece call Greek salad but without the lettuce. The addition<br />

of garlicky grilled chicken transforms the salad into a satisfying summer meal. Tzatziki, a cool yogurt and<br />

cucumber sauce often served with gyros, is a refreshing alternative to feta. Serves 4<br />

FOR THE CHICKEN<br />

4 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves<br />

1 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest<br />

2 large cloves garlic, minced<br />

1 Tbs. chopped fresh oregano or 2 tsp.<br />

dried oregano<br />

Kosher salt and freshly ground<br />

black pepper<br />

Olive oil, for grilling<br />

1 lemon, cut into 6 wedges<br />

2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley<br />

FOR THE SALAD<br />

2 pints cherry tomatoes, halved<br />

1 English cucumber, peeled, sliced in half<br />

lengthwise, seeded, and sliced crosswise<br />

½ small red onion, very thinly sliced<br />

13 cup pitted black olives, such as<br />

Kalamatas, halved<br />

1½ Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil<br />

1 tsp. chopped fresh oregano or<br />

½ tsp. dried oregano<br />

Kosher salt and freshly ground<br />

black pepper<br />

1 cup homemade or good-quality<br />

store-bought tzatziki sauce<br />

4 pitas, toasted (optional)<br />

GRILL THE CHICKEN<br />

Prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) gas<br />

or charcoal grill fire. Meanwhile, remove the<br />

tenderloins from the chicken breasts, if necessary,<br />

and reserve for another use.<br />

Put a chicken breast half between two large<br />

pieces of plastic wrap, and pound it to an even<br />

¼-inch thickness with a meat mallet. Repeat<br />

with the other 3 breast halves.<br />

In a mortar, combine the lemon zest, garlic,<br />

oregano, 1 tsp. salt, ½ tsp. pepper, and ¼ tsp.<br />

water. Grind with a pestle to crush and combine.<br />

Rub the mixture all over the chicken.<br />

Drizzle olive oil on both sides of the<br />

chicken, patting it into the meat with your<br />

fingertips. Grill the chicken without moving<br />

it until grill marks form, about 4 minutes. Flip<br />

and grill until just cooked through (160°F),<br />

another 1 minute. Transfer to a plate, and<br />

squirt 2 lemon wedges over the chicken. Top<br />

with the parsley, and let rest.<br />

MAKE THE SALAD<br />

In a large bowl, combine the tomatoes,<br />

cucumber, onion, and olives. Toss with the<br />

olive oil and oregano, and season to taste with<br />

salt and pepper.<br />

Divide the salad among 4 plates. Slice the<br />

chicken and place on top of the salad. Dollop<br />

with some of the tzatziki sauce. Serve with<br />

the remaining lemon wedges and the pitas,<br />

if using.<br />

18 COOKFRESH SUMMER 2017


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> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ><br />

© 2015 The Taunton Press<br />

> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ><br />

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Available at www.TauntonStore.com or wherever books are sold.


crab and corn cakes with lime sour cream<br />

Classic crab cakes get a subtle Tex-Mex treatment with the addition of corn<br />

and a refreshing lettuce and cilantro salad on the side. Serves 4<br />

1 lb. lump crabmeat, picked over<br />

11/3 cups panko<br />

3/4 cup corn kernels, preferably fresh<br />

Kosher salt<br />

3 large eggs, lightly beaten<br />

4 cups shredded iceberg lettuce<br />

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro<br />

1 lime<br />

1 cup sour cream<br />

1/4 cup vegetable oil<br />

Combine the crab, panko, corn, and 11/2 tsp.<br />

salt in a large bowl. Gently stir in the eggs.<br />

With damp hands, tightly shape the mixture<br />

into eight 3/4-inch-thick cakes and place them<br />

on a small cutting board or flat plate. Refrigerate<br />

for 10 minutes.<br />

Meanwhile, toss the lettuce and cilantro<br />

together and arrange on 4 plates. Finely grate<br />

the zest and squeeze the juice from the lime<br />

into a small bowl. Stir in the sour cream, and<br />

thin with a little water to make a pourable<br />

sauce. Season to taste with salt.<br />

Heat 2 Tbs. of the oil in a 12-inch nonstick<br />

skillet over medium heat. Add 4 crab cakes<br />

and cook, flipping once, until golden brown,<br />

about 8 minutes. Repeat with the remaining<br />

oil and crab cakes. Divide the crab cakes<br />

among the plates and serve with the<br />

sour cream.<br />

20 cookfresh Summer 2017


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finecooking.com 21


3 WAYS WITH...<br />

Scallions<br />

Versatile and affordable, these green onions add fresh<br />

flavor to recipes of all kinds.<br />

scallions, or green onions, are so versatile. You can use them<br />

as a color and flavor accent in pastas, salads, and stir-fries or as a<br />

garnish on a baked potato, but their fresh, oniony flavor makes them<br />

a wonderful feature ingredient, too, as the recipes here show. So grab<br />

a bag (or two), check out the tips below, and get cooking.<br />

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Choose scallions with firm white bulbs and<br />

fresh-looking green tops. Avoid those with slimy, wilted, or browned<br />

green parts.<br />

HOW TO STORE: Wrap whole scallions in damp paper towels<br />

and store in a zip-top bag in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator,<br />

where they should keep for about a week.<br />

HOW TO PREP: Always use a sharp knife when cutting<br />

scallions to avoid bruising them. Cut off any dried-out ends<br />

from the dark green tops (usually the top ¼ inch or so), trim the<br />

root ends, and rinse just before using.<br />

scallion oil<br />

Don’t let its pale hue fool you—this infused<br />

oil is bursting with fresh scallion flavor.<br />

Yields 1½ cups<br />

6 oz. scallions (10 to 12), green parts cut<br />

crosswise into 1-inch pieces, white parts<br />

chopped and lightly smashed<br />

1½ cups grapeseed or other neutral oil<br />

In a 2-quart saucepan, combine the scallions<br />

and oil. Slowly bring to a simmer over low heat,<br />

and then simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from<br />

the heat and let cool. Strain through a fine-mesh<br />

sieve into a small bowl, pushing down on the<br />

solids to extract as much oil as possible. Transfer<br />

to an airtight container and refrigerate for up to<br />

2 weeks.<br />

12 ways to use scallion oil<br />

This versatile oil can be used as a condiment,<br />

for cooking, or even as a finishing oil.<br />

As a dipping oil for:<br />

• french fries<br />

• bread<br />

• crudités<br />

As a cooking oil for:<br />

scrambled eggs<br />

popcorn<br />

fish or seafood<br />

• croutons<br />

As a finishing<br />

oil for:<br />

chicken or steak<br />

vegetables<br />

vinaigrettes<br />

soup<br />

• pasta<br />

22 COOKFRESH SUMMER 2017


lemony scallion pilaf<br />

This simple side dish is perfect<br />

with grilled fish, chicken, or shrimp.<br />

Serves 4<br />

1½ oz. (3 Tbs.) unsalted butter<br />

12 oz. scallions (20 to 24), thinly sliced,<br />

whites kept separate from greens<br />

Kosher salt and freshly ground<br />

black pepper<br />

¼ cup dry white wine<br />

1 cup basmati rice<br />

1¾ cups lower-salt chicken broth<br />

1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest<br />

2 tsp. fresh lemon juice<br />

korean-style<br />

scallion pancakes<br />

Known as pa jun in Korean (pa means scallion, and jun refers to battered,<br />

fried foods), these savory pancakes are more tender than their crispy<br />

Chinese counterparts. Paired with a spicy soy dipping sauce, they make<br />

a scrumptious snack, appetizer, or side dish. Serves 6 to 8<br />

FOR THE DIPPING SAUCE<br />

13 cup reduced-sodium soy sauce<br />

¼ cup rice vinegar<br />

1 Tbs. Asian sesame oil<br />

1 Tbs. thinly sliced scallions<br />

1 Tbs. packed dark brown sugar<br />

1 tsp. finely grated fresh ginger<br />

½ tsp. finely grated garlic<br />

½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes<br />

FOR THE PANCAKES<br />

9 oz. (2 cups) unbleached<br />

all-purpose flour<br />

2 large eggs, beaten<br />

Kosher salt<br />

6 oz. scallions (10 to 12), halved<br />

lengthwise and cut crosswise<br />

into 1-inch pieces<br />

2 tsp. vegetable oil;<br />

more as needed<br />

MAKE THE DIPPING SAUCE<br />

Mix all of the ingredients in a small bowl;<br />

set aside.<br />

MAKE THE PANCAKES<br />

Heat the oven to 200°F.<br />

Whisk the flour, eggs, 1 tsp. salt, and<br />

1½ cups water in a large bowl. Using a silicone<br />

spatula, gently fold in the scallions.<br />

Let the batter sit at room temperature<br />

for 10 minutes so that the flour can fully<br />

hydrate; the batter should be thick but<br />

pourable.<br />

Heat the vegetable oil in a 10-inch nonstick<br />

skillet over medium heat. Pour about<br />

¾ cup of the batter into the skillet, swirling<br />

the skillet and pushing the batter to the<br />

edges with the spatula. Cook until golden<br />

brown on the bottom, 3 to 4 minutes. Flip<br />

and cook until the other side is golden<br />

brown, about 2 minutes more. Transfer to<br />

a baking sheet and keep warm in the oven.<br />

Repeat with the remaining batter, adding<br />

more oil to the skillet as needed.<br />

Cut each pancake into wedges and<br />

serve with the sauce.<br />

Melt the butter in a 3- to 4-quart<br />

saucepan over medium heat. Add the<br />

scallion whites, ¼ tsp. salt, and a few<br />

grinds of pepper and cook, stirring<br />

often, until tender but not browned,<br />

about 5 minutes.<br />

Add the wine and simmer to reduce<br />

by half, about 2 minutes. Add the rice<br />

and cook, stirring often, until it begins<br />

to crackle, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the<br />

broth, lemon zest, and 1 tsp. salt; bring<br />

to a boil. Cover and turn the heat down<br />

to low. Cook until the rice is tender<br />

and the liquid is absorbed, about<br />

15 minutes.<br />

Remove from the heat and let<br />

sit, covered, for 5 minutes. Fluff the<br />

scallion greens and lemon juice into the<br />

rice with a fork and serve.<br />

FINECOOKING.COM 23


Peaches,<br />

Savory &<br />

Sweet<br />

Two marinades<br />

take this summer favorite<br />

fruit to new places.<br />

24 COOKFRESH SUMMER 2017


peaches at the peak of the season are something to get<br />

excited about. Since they have such a short season, you may<br />

want to stock up when they are at their best. Likely that would<br />

mean more peaches than you can eat for snacks, but we have<br />

the perfect solution for how to use them: Cut them up and<br />

marinate them. Marinating peaches draws out their luscious<br />

juices and allows their peachy flavor to merge with other<br />

ingredients like fresh herbs and tangy vinegar. You can also<br />

steer the marinade down a sweet or savory road, which opens<br />

up lots of options for how to serve the peaches. Sweet marinated<br />

peaches shine in breakfasts and quick desserts, while<br />

savory marinated peaches find their way into braises and<br />

salads, where the marinade pulls double duty as a vinaigrette.<br />

Another plus is that you can skip the tedious task of blanching<br />

and peeling the peaches because the marinade also softens the<br />

skins. So just make your peach marinades, kick back, and enjoy<br />

the taste of the season.<br />

Pick your marinade<br />

Whether you go sweet or savory, cut the fruit however<br />

you like and then just stir all the ingredients together. The<br />

peaches take on great flavor in as little as 20 minutes, but<br />

they can stay in the marinade for up to 48 hours. Reserve<br />

the marinade to use in the recipes.<br />

Savory, p. 26<br />

Sweet, p. 30<br />

finecooking.com 25


Savory<br />

Savory<br />

Marinated<br />

Peaches +<br />

pizza dough<br />

+ grilled sweet onions<br />

+ farmer cheese<br />

+ bacon<br />

+ fresh basil<br />

= a killer flatbread<br />

•<br />

shredded chicken<br />

+ mayo<br />

+ Dijon<br />

+ shallot<br />

= a grownup chicken salad<br />

•<br />

cherry tomatoes<br />

+ fresh lime juice<br />

+ jalapeño<br />

= a zippy salsa<br />

sherry vinegar and rosemary marinated peaches<br />

Vinegar and herbs tone down the peaches’ sweetness for savory dishes. Sherry<br />

vinegar brings complex tartness, fresh rosemary adds earthy pine notes, olive oil<br />

lends richness, and rum contributes a bit of spice. Yields 3 cups<br />

3 medium ripe peaches,<br />

pitted and sliced, diced,<br />

or cut into wedges<br />

1/₃ cup extra-virgin olive oil<br />

21/2 Tbs. spiced dark rum<br />

(optional)<br />

2 Tbs. sherry vinegar<br />

11/2<br />

tsp. finely chopped<br />

fresh rosemary<br />

Pinch of kosher salt<br />

Pinch of granulated<br />

sugar<br />

gently combine all of the<br />

ingredients in a medium bowl<br />

and let marinate at room<br />

temperature for at least<br />

20 minutes and up to<br />

24 hours. After marinating,<br />

you can refrigerate the<br />

peaches for up to 1 day.<br />

heirloom tomato and peach salad<br />

Start summer dinners on the patio with this simple salad. Or, pair it with creamy<br />

burrata and crusty bread and call it lunch. Serves 4 as a first course or side<br />

3 cups Sherry Vinegar and<br />

Rosemary Marinated<br />

Peaches (recipe above),<br />

drained, marinade<br />

reserved<br />

1 tsp. Dijon mustard<br />

4 large heirloom tomatoes<br />

(about 2 lb.), cored and<br />

sliced into 1/2-inch-thick<br />

rounds<br />

Flaky sea salt, such as<br />

Maldon, and freshly<br />

ground black pepper<br />

8 medium fresh mint<br />

leaves, torn<br />

in a small bowl, whisk<br />

together the reserved marinade<br />

and the Dijon; it’s ok if<br />

it doesn’t emulsify. Arrange<br />

the tomato slices on 4 plates<br />

or a platter, top with the<br />

peaches, and drizzle some<br />

of the vinaigrette over the<br />

top. season lightly with salt<br />

and pepper and garnish with<br />

the mint. Pass any remaining<br />

vinaigrette at the table.<br />

26 cookfresh summer 2017


28 cookfresh summer 2017


aised chicken thighs<br />

with savory marinated peaches<br />

These tender chicken thighs<br />

are dripping with savorysweet<br />

herbal flavors from the<br />

marinated peaches. Salty<br />

capers and crisp prosciutto<br />

seal the deal. Serves 4 to 6<br />

1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil;<br />

more as needed<br />

1 oz. thinly sliced prosciutto,<br />

cut crosswise into thin strips<br />

3 lb. bone-in, skin-on chicken<br />

thighs (about 8)<br />

Kosher salt and freshly<br />

ground black pepper<br />

1 medium leek, white and<br />

light green part only, thinly<br />

sliced (1 cup)<br />

3 medium cloves garlic,<br />

thinly sliced<br />

2 Tbs. all-purpose flour<br />

3 cups Sherry Vinegar and<br />

Rosemary Marinated<br />

Peaches (recipe, p. 26),<br />

drained, marinade<br />

reserved<br />

3 cups lower-salt chicken<br />

broth<br />

2 Tbs. drained capers<br />

2 Tbs. unsalted butter<br />

2 Tbs. fresh tarragon leaves,<br />

coarsely chopped<br />

Position a rack in the center of the<br />

oven and heat the oven to 350°F.<br />

Heat the oil in an 8-quart Dutch<br />

oven or other heavy-duty pot over<br />

medium heat. Add the prosciutto<br />

and cook, stirring occasionally,<br />

until crisp, about 5 minutes. With<br />

a slotted spoon, transfer to a bowl<br />

and set aside. If the pan is dry, add<br />

a little more oil.<br />

Season the chicken lightly on all<br />

sides with salt and pepper. Working<br />

in batches, brown the chicken on<br />

both sides, about 12 minutes total.<br />

Transfer to a plate.<br />

Turn the heat down to medium<br />

low. Pour off all but 1 Tbs. fat from<br />

the pot and then add the leek and<br />

garlic. Cook, stirring often, until<br />

beginning to soften, about<br />

5 minutes. Add the flour and<br />

cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add<br />

the reserved marinade and cook,<br />

scraping up any browned bits from<br />

the bottom of the pan, until the<br />

liquid thickens, about 2 minutes.<br />

Add the broth, season lightly with<br />

salt and pepper, and bring to a<br />

boil. Arrange the chicken in the<br />

pot skin side up, return to a boil,<br />

and transfer the pot to the oven<br />

to braise, uncovered, until the<br />

chicken cooks through, about<br />

25 minutes.<br />

Take the pot out of the oven.<br />

Turn the broiler on high. Transfer<br />

the chicken, skin side up, to a foillined<br />

rimmed baking sheet.<br />

Simmer the sauce in the pot<br />

over medium-high heat, stirring<br />

occasionally, until thickened and<br />

reduced by about half, about<br />

10 minutes. Lower the heat to<br />

medium and stir in the capers<br />

and peaches; cook until heated<br />

through. Stir in the butter until<br />

it melts, then stir in 1 Tbs. of the<br />

tarragon and season to taste with<br />

salt and pepper.<br />

Meanwhile, broil the chicken<br />

until the skin is crisp, about<br />

3 minutes.<br />

Return the chicken to the pot<br />

or transfer it to a large platter<br />

and spoon the sauce over it.<br />

Garnish with the prosciutto and<br />

the remaining tarragon leaves,<br />

and serve.<br />

finecooking.com 29


own sugar and<br />

thyme marinated<br />

peaches<br />

Brown sugar and white<br />

balsamic vinegar lend<br />

peaches a caramelly flavor,<br />

while a semidry wine enhances<br />

their sweet tartness. Fresh<br />

thyme adds an herbal note.<br />

Yields 3 cups<br />

Sweet<br />

3 medium ripe peaches, pitted<br />

and sliced, diced, or cut<br />

into wedges<br />

1/₃ cup packed light brown sugar<br />

1/₃ cup off-dry (sweet) white wine,<br />

preferably Gewürztraminer<br />

Pinch of kosher salt<br />

3 Tbs. white balsamic vinegar<br />

11/2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves<br />

gently combine all of the ingredients<br />

in a medium bowl and let<br />

marinate at room temperature<br />

for at least 20 minutes and up to<br />

24 hours. After marinating, you<br />

can refrigerate the peaches for<br />

up to 1 day.<br />

Sweet<br />

Marinated<br />

Peaches +<br />

buttermilk biscuits<br />

+ whipped cream<br />

+ mascarpone<br />

+ lemon zest<br />

= deluxe shortcakes<br />

•<br />

vanilla ice cream<br />

+ cream soda<br />

= a sophisticated float<br />

•<br />

bourbon<br />

+ ginger beer<br />

+ peach bitters<br />

= a spicysweet cocktail<br />

overnight oatmeal with sweet marinated peaches<br />

This overnight method is fabulous; the flavors have a chance to develop, and the<br />

oats get a softer, creamier texture. It’s the ideal backdrop for marinated peaches<br />

and crunchy toasted walnuts. Serves 4<br />

2 Tbs. whole milk<br />

2 Tbs. packed light brown sugar<br />

1 tsp. pure vanilla extract<br />

3/4 tsp. ground cinnamon<br />

¼ tsp. kosher salt<br />

1 cup steel-cut oats, preferably McCann’s<br />

3 cups Brown Sugar and Thyme Marinated<br />

Peaches (recipe above left), drained,<br />

¼ cup marinade reserved<br />

2 oz. (1/2 cup) toasted walnuts, coarsely<br />

chopped<br />

1/2 tsp. chia seeds (optional)<br />

Heavy cream (optional)<br />

combine the milk, sugar, vanilla, cinnamon,<br />

salt, and 4 cups water in a 4-quart saucepan<br />

over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve<br />

the sugar. Bring to a boil. stir in the oats,<br />

simmer for 1 minute, then remove from the<br />

heat. Let cool at room temperature until<br />

tepid, then cover and refrigerate overnight.<br />

Bring the oatmeal to a simmer over<br />

medium heat and cook, stirring occasionally,<br />

until thick and the oats are tender and<br />

chewy, about 10 minutes.<br />

off the heat, stir in the reserved marinade.<br />

Divide among 4 bowls, and top with<br />

the peaches, walnuts, and chia seeds, if<br />

using. Drizzle with heavy cream, if using,<br />

and serve.<br />

30 cookfresh summer 2017


sweet marinated peach tart with honey-yogurt mousse<br />

Perfect for a dinner party and easier<br />

to make than a peach pie, this tart<br />

marries sweet peaches and a creamy<br />

yogurt mousse in a press-in shortbread<br />

crust. If you’re short on time, you can<br />

skip the crust and serve the mousse<br />

topped with the peaches in little bowls<br />

or wineglasses. Serves 8 to 10<br />

FOR THE CRUST<br />

9 oz. (2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour<br />

7 oz. (14 Tbs.) chilled unsalted butter, cut<br />

into 1-inch pieces<br />

3 oz. (3/4 cup) confectioners’ sugar<br />

1 large egg, beaten<br />

1 Tbs. cornstarch<br />

1 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest<br />

(from 1 large lemon)<br />

1 tsp. kosher salt<br />

FOR THE MOUSSE<br />

1/8 oz. (1 tsp.) unflavored powdered gelatin<br />

3/4 cup plus 1 Tbs. heavy cream<br />

3 Tbs. honey<br />

11/2 cups plain Greek yogurt<br />

Pinch of kosher salt<br />

FOR THE TOPPING<br />

3 cups Brown Sugar and Thyme<br />

Marinated Peaches (recipe, facing<br />

page), drained, marinade reserved<br />

MAKE THE CRUST<br />

In a food processor, pulse the flour,<br />

butter, confectioners’ sugar, egg,<br />

cornstarch, lemon zest, and salt<br />

until the dough comes together in<br />

big clumps, about twenty 1-second<br />

pulses. The dough will be very soft<br />

and pliable.<br />

Transfer the dough to a 9-inch<br />

springform pan. Flour your fingertips<br />

and press the dough onto the bottom<br />

and sides of the pan in an even layer.<br />

Start by pressing the dough up the<br />

sides, which should be just under 1/4 inch<br />

thick, and reflour your fingers as necessary.<br />

Wrap the pan in plastic and refrigerate<br />

for at least 1 hour and up to 1 day.<br />

Position a rack in the lower third of the<br />

oven and heat the oven to 350°F.<br />

Prick the bottom of the crust all over with<br />

a fork. Line the crust with aluminum foil and<br />

fill with pie weights or dried beans, gently<br />

pressing them against the sides. Bake until<br />

the edges begin to turn golden, about 20 minutes.<br />

Carefully remove the weights and foil.<br />

Continue to bake the crust until golden brown<br />

and the bottom is firm and dry, 15 to 20 minutes.<br />

If the crust puffs up during baking, use<br />

the back of a spoon to gently press it down.<br />

Cool completely on a wire rack.<br />

MAKE THE MOUSSE<br />

In a small bowl, sprinkle the gelatin over 1 Tbs.<br />

cold water; let stand until the gelatin softens,<br />

about 5 minutes.<br />

Meanwhile, stir 1 Tbs. of the cream with the<br />

honey in a 2-quart saucepan over medium<br />

heat until the honey melts, about 2 minutes.<br />

Stir in the gelatin mixture and remove from<br />

the heat. Add the yogurt and salt, and whisk<br />

until smooth.<br />

In a large bowl, whisk the remaining 3/4 cup<br />

cream until soft peaks form. Gently fold<br />

the yogurt mixture into the<br />

cream.<br />

Pour the mousse into the cooled crust<br />

and smooth to the edges with a small offset<br />

spatula. Cover and refrigerate until firm, at<br />

least 4 hours and up to 2 days.<br />

TOP THE TART<br />

Simmer the reserved marinade in a 1-quart<br />

pot over medium heat until syrupy, about<br />

5 minutes; refrigerate until cold, 30 minutes<br />

and up to 1 day.<br />

When ready to serve, transfer the tart to a<br />

serving plate. Spoon the peaches and a little<br />

of the syrup over the mousse. Slice and serve<br />

drizzled with the remaining peach syrup.


Harissa<br />

Hot<br />

sauce<br />

Chipotles<br />

in adobo<br />

Sambal<br />

oelek<br />

Sriracha<br />

Wasabi<br />

Turn Up<br />

the heat<br />

Serve suppers with a kick when you cook with<br />

flavor-packed, spicy ingredients.<br />

want to crank up the flavor in your weeknight<br />

meals? Reach for a bottle of Sriracha or<br />

a jar of sambal oelek the next time you’re at<br />

the store. Spicy sauces like these bring a lot to<br />

the table. The dishes here feature pepper- and<br />

mustard-based ingredients that, when used in<br />

the right amounts, will not overwhelm with fire<br />

but give meals a flavorful bump.<br />

32 cookfresh summer 2017


spicy chipotle<br />

shrimp, avocado,<br />

and corn fajitas<br />

Arrange the fajitas and fixings<br />

on a buffet table, bar<br />

style, for casual entertaining,<br />

or serve the components on<br />

various platters at the table.<br />

Serves 4<br />

1 lb. shrimp (26 to 30 per lb.),<br />

peeled and deveined<br />

4 Tbs. olive oil<br />

1 tsp. chili powder<br />

Kosher salt and freshly<br />

ground black pepper<br />

1 large Haas avocado (about<br />

1/2 lb.), cut into 1/2-inch dice<br />

1 chipotle, minced, plus 1 Tbs.<br />

adobo sauce (from a can of<br />

chipotles in adobo)<br />

1 lime, half juiced (about<br />

1 Tbs.) and half cut into<br />

wedges<br />

1 large yellow onion, thinly<br />

sliced (about 3 cups)<br />

1 large clove garlic, minced<br />

1 cup frozen corn, thawed, or<br />

the kernels from 2 ears corn<br />

8 corn tortillas, warmed<br />

1/4 cup coarsely chopped<br />

fresh cilantro<br />

Toss the shrimp with 1 Tbs. of the<br />

oil, the chili powder, 1/4 tsp. salt,<br />

and 1/2 tsp. pepper. In a medium<br />

bowl, mash the avocado with the<br />

chipotle and adobo sauce, lime<br />

juice, and 1/4 tsp. salt.<br />

heat 11/2 Tbs. oil in a large<br />

(12-inch) skillet over mediumhigh<br />

heat until shimmering. Add<br />

the shrimp and cook, stirring, until<br />

they turn pink and become just<br />

firm to the touch, about 2 minutes.<br />

Transfer to a large plate.<br />

reduce the heat to medium,<br />

and add the remaining 11/2 Tbs.<br />

oil to the pan. Add the onion,<br />

sprinkle with 1/2 tsp. salt, and cook,<br />

stirring, until the onion softens<br />

and starts to brown, about<br />

6 minutes. Add the garlic and<br />

cook, stirring, for 30 seconds.<br />

Add the corn and shrimp, and<br />

cook, stirring, until they heat<br />

through, about 2 minutes.<br />

Let your guests help themselves<br />

by spreading the avocado<br />

on a warm tortilla and topping the<br />

spread with some of the shrimp<br />

mixture, a squeeze of lime juice,<br />

and a sprinkling of the cilantro.<br />

chipoTLeS in aDobo<br />

When you want to add a hit of hot, smoky flavor to your cooking, reach for a can of<br />

chipotle chiles in adobo. Chipotles are dried, smoked jalapeños. Adobo is a tangy, slightly<br />

sweet red sauce. Put them together in a can and they become a versatile pantry staple.<br />

You can use just the chipotles for intense smoky chile heat or just the sauce if you want a<br />

sour-sweet flavor and a slightly less fiery smoky heat. Or you can use them together, as in<br />

the recipe above.<br />

The chipotles are soft and ready to go straight from the can. They can be quite spicy,<br />

but you can temper the heat a bit by scraping out the seeds. The size of chipotles often<br />

varies, so if a recipe calls for two chipotles and you choose the biggest one, you might<br />

want to use just one. To store, transfer unused chiles and sauce to an airtight container—<br />

preferably glass, as the sauce tends to stain plastic—and refrigerate for about a month.<br />

fInecookIng.com 33


34 cookfresh summer 2017


ourbon-marinated buffalo chicken strips with maytag blue dip<br />

Instead of the traditional chicken wings, this recipe calls for juicy boneless, skinless chicken thighs. The Maytag dip can be<br />

made up to 4 days ahead, but definitely start this dish at least a day ahead of time to let the chicken marinate. Yields 2 lb.;<br />

serves 4 as a main dish or 8 to 12 as an appetizer<br />

FOR THE CHICKEN<br />

1/4 cup bourbon<br />

1/4 cup soy sauce<br />

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice<br />

2 lb. boneless, skinless chicken thighs<br />

FOR THE DIP<br />

1/4 lb. Maytag Blue, crumbled<br />

1/2 cup mayonnaise (homemade<br />

or prepared)<br />

1/4 cup sour cream<br />

2 Tbs. cider vinegar<br />

1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions<br />

1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh<br />

flat-leaf parsley<br />

1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh dill<br />

1/2 tsp. coarse salt<br />

1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper<br />

Pinch of cayenne<br />

FOR THE SAUCE<br />

1/4 cup Crystal Hot Sauce (or another brand<br />

of cayenne hot sauce such as Frank’s or<br />

Durkee but not a fiery sauce like Tabasco)<br />

4 Tbs. melted unsalted butter<br />

3/4 tsp. coarse salt<br />

1 Tbs. cornstarch mixed with 1/4 cup water<br />

FOR FINISHING THE DISH<br />

About 1 quart vegetable oil for frying<br />

1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper<br />

3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour<br />

1 seedless cucumber, unpeeled,<br />

cut into spears<br />

1 celery heart, washed and drained,<br />

cut into sticks<br />

Marinate the chicken<br />

In a large bowl, combine the bourbon, soy<br />

sauce, and lemon juice. Trim and discard any<br />

visible fat on the chicken thighs. Cut each<br />

thigh lengthwise into 5 to 6 strips. Toss the<br />

strips in the bourbon mixture. Cover and<br />

refrigerate for 24 hours.<br />

Make the dip<br />

Blend half the cheese with the mayonnaise<br />

in a food processor until smooth. Add the<br />

sour cream and cider vinegar and process<br />

until the mixture has the consistency of<br />

creamy mayonnaise. Add the scallions,<br />

parsley, and dill and process again briefly.<br />

Add the remaining cheese, process very<br />

briefly (the dip should be slightly chunky),<br />

and remove from the food processor. Add<br />

the salt, pepper, and cayenne. Wrap well and<br />

re frigerate for up to 4 days.<br />

Make the sauce<br />

In a small saucepan, whisk together the hot<br />

sauce, melted butter, salt, and cornstarch<br />

mixture. Heat while whisking constantly until<br />

the mixture comes to a boil. The sauce should<br />

be smooth and slightly thickened. Remove<br />

from the heat and keep warm.<br />

Finish the dish<br />

Heat the oven to 250°F. Pour enough oil into<br />

a wok or deep, heavy pot to reach about<br />

2 inches. Heat the oil to 365°F or until the oil<br />

shimmers and the air 2 inches above the oil<br />

feels hot.<br />

Drain the chicken well and pat dry with<br />

paper towels. Season the chicken with the<br />

1/2 tsp. pepper. Spread the flour in a wide,<br />

shallow container and dredge one-third of<br />

the thigh strips, shaking off any excess flour.<br />

Carefully put the strips one at a time in the hot<br />

oil. Fry until the strips are golden brown, about<br />

7 minutes. Remove from the oil and drain on<br />

paper towels. Repeat this process until all the<br />

chicken has been fried.<br />

Put the fried chicken in a large bowl. Toss<br />

with the warm sauce and spread in a single<br />

layer on a baking sheet. Heat in the oven for<br />

about 5 minutes so the sauce is absorbed.<br />

Serve immediately with the dip, cucumber,<br />

and celery.<br />

Hot Sauce<br />

There’s a world of hot sauce out there, but there’s nothing<br />

quite like the piquant zing of Louisiana-style sauces. Why?<br />

Louisiana hot sauces are vinegar-based, so along with a<br />

spicy kick, their acidity lends a certain brightness to rich,<br />

earthy dishes. The vinegar in the sauce is an important<br />

finishing touch.<br />

Louisiana-style hot sauces get their heat from tabasco<br />

or cayenne chiles or both, which are mashed and aged to<br />

develop the flavors. Aside from the chiles and vinegar, salt<br />

and water are often the only other ingredients. Tabasco brand<br />

is probably the most famous (and one of the hottest) of the<br />

genre, but there are many others: Frank’s RedHot, Crystal,<br />

Texas Pete, and Louisiana Hot Sauce are just a few.<br />

finecooking.com 35


spicy pan-fried noodles with tofu<br />

Seared tofu is the perfect vehicle to carry the sweet, sour, and savory flavors of<br />

this dish. Buying cooked noodles (look for them next to the tofu) saves a step; if<br />

you can’t find them, use 8 oz. uncooked and cook them according to package<br />

directions. Serves 4<br />

1/4 cup soy sauce<br />

3 Tbs. packed dark brown sugar<br />

2 Tbs. fresh lime juice, plus lime<br />

wedges for serving<br />

11/2 Tbs. Sriracha; more for serving<br />

2 large cloves garlic, minced<br />

3 Tbs. vegetable or peanut oil<br />

12 to 14 oz. extra-firm or pressed tofu,<br />

patted dry and cut into 3/4-inch cubes<br />

Kosher salt and freshly ground<br />

white pepper<br />

2 medium carrots, halved lengthwise and<br />

thinly sliced on the diagonal<br />

1 lb. cooked Asian-style noodles, such as<br />

udon or yakisoba<br />

6 medium scallions, cut into 1-inch lengths,<br />

white and dark green parts separated<br />

2 cups thinly sliced green cabbage<br />

Whisk the soy sauce, sugar, lime juice, Sriracha,<br />

garlic, and 2 Tbs. water in a small bowl;<br />

set aside.<br />

Heat 1 Tbs. of the oil in a 14-inch wok or<br />

12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high<br />

heat until shimmering hot. Add the tofu,<br />

season generously with salt and pepper, and<br />

cook, stirring occasionally, until browned on<br />

all sides, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a large<br />

bowl. Add another 1 Tbs. oil to the pan, and<br />

then add the carrots. Season with salt and<br />

pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until<br />

crisp-tender and well browned in spots, 3 to<br />

5 minutes. Transfer to the bowl with the tofu.<br />

Add the remaining 1 Tbs. oil, the cooked<br />

noodles, and the scallion whites to the skillet.<br />

Cook, stirring occasionally, until the noodles<br />

are browned in spots and the scallions are<br />

tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir the sauce and then<br />

carefully pour it over the noodles; the mixture<br />

will steam. Toss well to coat and cook, stirring,<br />

until the sauce is reduced to a sticky glaze,<br />

about 2 minutes.<br />

Return the tofu and carrots to the wok. Add<br />

the cabbage and the scallion greens and toss<br />

well. Serve with lime wedges and additional<br />

Sriracha if desired.<br />

Sriracha<br />

A Thai-style chile sauce, Sriracha<br />

is made from sun-ripened chiles,<br />

garlic, sugar, salt, and vinegar, giving<br />

it a hot-sweet-sour-salty flavor<br />

profile. Its ketchup-like, smooth,<br />

seedless consistency makes Sriracha<br />

an ideal condiment to add a<br />

jolt of heat to sandwiches, soups,<br />

and other dishes.<br />

Sriracha‘s tangy bite, though<br />

best suited to Asian foods,<br />

matches most all cuisines. The<br />

heat from Sriracha is sweeter than<br />

the vinegary tang that marks most<br />

hot sauces. Huy Fong Foods, the<br />

folks who make Sriracha, explain<br />

that this sweetness comes from<br />

sun-ripened chiles and garlic. The<br />

smooth red paste has a slightly<br />

drier consistency than ketchup. It<br />

can be squeezed out of the bottle<br />

with ease and to artful results—<br />

when you’re in a playful mood, you<br />

can decorate a dish with the sauce<br />

the way a restaurant cook might<br />

use a squeeze bottle.


crispy fish sandwiches with wasabi and ginger<br />

Wasabi, ginger, and soy sauce give this otherwise typical fried fish sandwich a bright and spicy flavor. Look for tubes of wasabi<br />

paste near other Asian ingredients in the supermarket. Serves 4<br />

1/2 cup mayonnaise<br />

1 medium lime, finely grated to<br />

yield 1/2 tsp. zest and squeezed<br />

to yield 4 tsp. juice<br />

11/2 tsp. wasabi paste; more to taste<br />

Kosher salt and freshly ground<br />

black pepper<br />

2 large eggs<br />

2 Tbs. soy sauce<br />

1 cup panko<br />

4 4- to 5-oz. boneless, skinless hake,<br />

haddock, or cod fillets (preferably<br />

1 to 11/2 inches thick)<br />

1/2 cup plus 1 Tbs. vegetable oil<br />

1 tsp. finely grated fresh ginger<br />

3 cups thinly sliced iceberg lettuce (1/4 head)<br />

4 hamburger buns, lightly toasted<br />

In a small bowl, combine the mayonnaise, lime<br />

zest, 1 tsp. of the lime juice, and the wasabi<br />

paste. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and<br />

more wasabi, if you like.<br />

In a wide, shallow bowl, lightly beat the eggs<br />

and 1 Tbs. of the soy sauce until combined.<br />

Put the panko in another wide shallow bowl.<br />

Pat the fish fillets dry and lightly season<br />

with salt. Working with one fillet at a time, dip<br />

it in the egg mixture, letting any excess drip<br />

off, then coat with the panko, pressing the<br />

breadcrumbs onto the fish. Set each breaded<br />

fillet on a plate or tray as you finish it.<br />

In a 10-inch nonstick skillet, heat 1/2 cup of<br />

the oil over medium heat until shimmering<br />

hot. Fry the fish, flipping once, until well<br />

browned and just cooked through, 5 to<br />

8 minutes total. Transfer to paper towels<br />

to drain, and sprinkle each fillet with a pinch<br />

of salt.<br />

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, stir together the<br />

remaining 1 Tbs. lime juice, 1 Tbs. soy sauce,<br />

1 Tbs. oil, the ginger, 1/4 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp.<br />

pepper. Add the lettuce and toss to coat.<br />

Spread the wasabi mayonnaise on both<br />

cut sides of the buns. Put one fish fillet on the<br />

bottom of each bun, then top with the lettuce<br />

and the bun top.<br />

Wasabi<br />

If you’re a fan of sushi and sashimi, then you’re already<br />

familiar with wasabi. For the uninitiated, wasabi is the<br />

tingling-hot, sinus-clearing pasty green condiment that<br />

accompanies those popular Japanese seafood dishes.<br />

In addition to serving it with sushi, we also like to add it<br />

to mashed potatoes and to mayonnaise, as it is here.<br />

Also known as Japanese horse radish, wasabi is a<br />

member of the mustard family. Fresh wasabi is expensive<br />

and hard to find, but you can get it in powdered or<br />

paste form at Asian markets and in the Asian section<br />

of the supermarket (or see p. 93 for an online source).<br />

Powdered wasabi is the better option: It has more of<br />

a kick than the commercial paste. Buy wasabi in the<br />

smallest quantity available because, like dried spices,<br />

its potency dissipates over time.<br />

finecooking.com 37


spicy asian roasted broccoli and snap peas<br />

If you have trouble finding fresh Thai chiles (also called bird chiles), try<br />

using the same amount of the dried version. For more on miso, see Test<br />

Kitchen, p. 85. Serves 4<br />

SaMbaL<br />

oeLeK<br />

Although chiles are native to the New World,<br />

once they crossed the Pacific, they became<br />

wildly popular in Eastern Asian cuisines.<br />

In addition to using fresh and dried chiles,<br />

East Asian cooks also rely on a variety of<br />

prepared chile pastes and sauces to add<br />

spicy heat to their dishes. Asian chile pastes<br />

and sauces (the distinction between the<br />

two having more to do with what their<br />

manufacturers choose to call them than<br />

with their consistency), like sambal oelek,<br />

are made primarily from ground chiles, oil<br />

or vinegar, and salt. They may also include<br />

other flavors, such as garlic, ginger, sugar,<br />

sesame, black beans, or soy beans. If garlic<br />

is added, the product is often identified<br />

as “chile paste with garlic” or “chile- garlic<br />

paste,” and if soybeans predominate, it’s<br />

called “hot bean paste.” Unlike most of the<br />

thin, smooth, chile-based hot sauces of<br />

the Americas, Asian chile pastes tend to be<br />

coarse and on the thick side, full of bits of<br />

ground chiles and sometimes whole seeds.<br />

Pastes from Southeast Asian countries like<br />

Indo nesia and Vietnam are typically bottled<br />

fresh, while Chinese and Korean pastes are<br />

usually fermented first.<br />

You can spice up anything with chile<br />

paste. Add it at the beginning of cooking if<br />

you want it to really permeate the dish, or at<br />

the end if you want more of a surface heat.<br />

Until you’re familiar with the heat level or the<br />

brand you’re using, start with a very small<br />

amount; you can always add more.<br />

You’ll find the broadest variety of chile<br />

pastes at an Asian grocery store. Be sure the<br />

first ingredient listed is chiles. Chile pastes<br />

aren’t usually labeled as to their heat intensity,<br />

so experiment to find a brand you like.<br />

Some pastes separate during storage, so<br />

stir them before using. Once opened, chile<br />

pastes will last indefinitely if tightly covered<br />

and refrigerated. Transfer canned paste to a<br />

jar before storing.<br />

5 cups broccoli florets (from<br />

about 2 broccoli crowns)<br />

3 cups (about 12 oz.) fresh<br />

sugar snap peas, trimmed<br />

6 to 8 red or orange fresh Thai<br />

chiles, stems trimmed<br />

3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil<br />

2 plus 1 tsp. toasted sesame oil<br />

1 tsp. kosher salt<br />

2 Tbs. fresh cilantro leaves,<br />

chopped<br />

11/2 Tbs. light-colored (white or<br />

yellow) miso (see p. 85 for<br />

more information)<br />

1 Tbs. honey<br />

2 tsp. sambal oelek (Asian<br />

chile paste)<br />

1 tsp. finely grated orange zest<br />

1 tsp. grated fresh ginger<br />

1 clove garlic, minced<br />

Position a rack in the center of the oven<br />

and heat the oven to 450°f.<br />

Put the broccoli, peas, and chiles in a<br />

large bowl; toss with 2 Tbs. of the olive<br />

oil and 2 Tbs. of the sesame oil. sprinkle<br />

with salt and toss again. Transfer the<br />

vegetables to a 10x15-inch Pyrex dish<br />

and roast, stirring once, until the peas<br />

are lightly browned and the broccoli<br />

tops are quite dark in spots, about<br />

22 minutes.<br />

meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk the<br />

remaining 1 Tbs. olive oil, 1 tsp. sesame<br />

oil, cilantro, miso, honey, sambal oelek,<br />

orange zest, ginger, and garlic. Pour the<br />

mixture over the roasted vegetables<br />

and toss to coat. remove the chiles (or<br />

leave them in for color but warn diners<br />

not to eat them). serve immediately.<br />

38 cookfresh summer 2017


moroccan chicken burgers<br />

with feta and carrot slaw<br />

These burgers come packed with aromatic flavor thanks to<br />

cumin, fresh ginger, mint, and harissa, a spicy North African<br />

condiment. Serves 4<br />

1 lb. ground chicken (preferably not<br />

100% breast meat)<br />

1/2 medium yellow onion, grated on<br />

the large holes of a box grater<br />

3 Tbs. chopped fresh mint<br />

2 Tbs. harissa<br />

11/2 tsp. ground cumin<br />

11/2 tsp. finely grated fresh ginger<br />

Kosher salt<br />

3 medium carrots, grated on<br />

the large holes of a box grater<br />

or cut into thin strips with a<br />

julienne peeler<br />

1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice;<br />

more to taste<br />

2 tsp. granulated sugar<br />

1 tsp. cumin seed<br />

Vegetable oil for grilling<br />

4 mini whole-wheat pitas, slit open<br />

11/2 oz. crumbled feta (₃ cup)<br />

Prepare a medium (350°f to 375°f)<br />

gas or charcoal grill fire.<br />

With your hands, gently mix the<br />

chicken, onion, 1 Tbs. of the mint, the<br />

harissa, ground cumin, ginger, and<br />

¾ tsp. salt in a large bowl. With wet<br />

hands, form into four 1/2-inch-thick<br />

patties.<br />

Toss the remaining 2 Tbs. mint with<br />

the carrots, lemon juice, sugar, cumin<br />

seed, and 1/4 tsp. salt. season to taste<br />

with more lemon juice and salt.<br />

oil the grill grate and grill the<br />

burgers, flipping once, until cooked<br />

through (165°f), 8 to 10 minutes total.<br />

serve the burgers in the pitas along<br />

with the feta and slaw.<br />

hariSSa<br />

Just about every area of the world has a favorite<br />

type of chile sauce. In North Africa, it’s harissa, a<br />

chile paste scented with cumin, coriander, and garlic,<br />

which is used to flavor couscous and kebabs, as<br />

well as various salads. Primarily Tunisian, harissa is<br />

also used in Moroccan, Algerian, and Libyan cooking.<br />

Ranging in heat from mild to scorching hot, harissa<br />

is used as both a condiment and an ingredient that’s<br />

stirred into couscous, tagines (stews), soups, and<br />

pastas. Look for harissa in tubes, cans, or jars at wellstocked<br />

grocery stores and specialty markets.<br />

fInecookIng.com 39


FARM<br />

TO<br />

SPOON<br />

In Italy, they eat soup in summer (and so should you).<br />

Should grilling season signal the end of soup<br />

season? Nope. Think about it: Now is when nature’s most<br />

glorious parade of vegetables is at farmers’ markets—juicy<br />

tomatoes, sweet bell peppers, green and golden squash, purple<br />

eggplant, and crisp, fresh corn among them. These beauties<br />

are good for more than just a quick turn on the grill or<br />

a spot in your salad bowl; they are prime soup vegetables, and<br />

as cooks across Italy know well, they make incredibly flavorful,<br />

fragrant summer soups. Some may question whether<br />

it’s too hot in the summer to eat soup. But that’s the key to a<br />

summer soup—serving temperature. Don’t serve them piping<br />

hot, but rather just warm or at room temperature, as the<br />

Italians do. That way, they fit perfectly with the weather, and<br />

soup season never has to end.<br />

Soup Secrets<br />

Italian cooks build flavor into their soups at every step of the cooking process. Here are a few ways you can do this, too.<br />

• Use homemade broth whenever<br />

possible for the most<br />

natural flavor.<br />

• For a meaty flavor boost, cook<br />

some diced pancetta along<br />

with the aromatics (carrot,<br />

onion, celery).<br />

• Add minced fresh, hardy herbs,<br />

like rosemary or thyme, to<br />

the aromatics for deeper<br />

herbal notes.<br />

• Freeze leftover Grana Padano<br />

or Parmi giano-Reggiano rinds<br />

and then toss one into the<br />

soup pot to infuse the broth.<br />

Bonus: Scraping the softened<br />

cheese from the rind before<br />

serving the soup is the ultimate<br />

cook’s treat.<br />

• Garnish your soup to add<br />

contrasting or complementary<br />

textures and flavors. Freshly<br />

grated Grana Padano, Parmigiano,<br />

or pecorino, toasted<br />

croutons, fried sage leaves,<br />

and/or a drizzle of really good<br />

extra-virgin olive oil are all delicious<br />

options.<br />

40 cookfresh summer 2017


BASE<br />

RECIPE<br />

roasted<br />

vegetable broth<br />

This broth will boost the vegetable flavor in the soups on the following pages.<br />

It’s pretty hands off, so put a pot on whenever you know you’ll be home for a<br />

couple of hours. If time is short, you can use store-bought broth, too. Yields about 2 quarts<br />

6 sprigs fresh flat­leaf parsley<br />

6 sprigs fresh thyme<br />

6 medium carrots, cut into 1­inch pieces<br />

4 medium celery ribs, cut into 1­inch pieces<br />

1 large yellow onion, peeled and<br />

cut into 8 wedges<br />

1 medium red onion, peeled and<br />

cut into 8 wedges<br />

2 Tbs. extra­virgin olive oil<br />

Kosher salt and freshly ground<br />

black pepper<br />

1 cup dry white wine<br />

Position a rack in the center of the oven<br />

and heat the oven to 450°f.<br />

In a large roasting pan, toss the herb<br />

sprigs, carrots, celery, and onions with the<br />

oil, 2 tsp. salt, and a few grinds of black<br />

pepper. spread into a snug single layer.<br />

roast, stirring twice, until the vegetables<br />

are tender and browned in spots, about<br />

40 minutes.<br />

Transfer everything to a 6-quart heavyduty<br />

pot, add 3 quarts cold water, and<br />

bring to a boil. Turn the heat down and<br />

simmer gently, uncovered, for 30 minutes.<br />

Add the wine and simmer until the broth<br />

is reduced by about one-third and has<br />

a full vegetable flavor, 20 to 30 minutes<br />

more. season to taste with more salt, if<br />

necessary.<br />

strain the broth through a fine-mesh<br />

sieve lined with damp cheesecloth or<br />

a coffee filter into a clean container,<br />

pressing gently on the vegetables to<br />

extract as much liquid as possible. Discard<br />

the solids.<br />

If you are not using the broth<br />

immediately, let it cool, then cover and<br />

refrigerate for up to 3 days or freeze for up<br />

to 3 months.<br />

creamy roasted pepper and tomato soup<br />

Bell peppers may be available in supermarkets all year long, but nothing beats<br />

the flavor of the sweet peppers that dominate farmers’ markets in August and<br />

September; that’s the ideal time to make this rich soup with its crispy-salty fried<br />

caper garnish. Straining the soup through a fine-mesh sieve before serving yields<br />

silky results; for a more rustic version, use a medium-mesh sieve. Serves 6<br />

3 lb. red bell peppers, cut into<br />

1­inch­wide strips<br />

2 lb. ripe plum tomatoes, seeded and<br />

cut into 1­inch pieces<br />

3 medium carrots, cut into<br />

1­inch pieces<br />

1 large yellow onion, cut into<br />

8 wedges<br />

1 large red onion, cut into 8 wedges<br />

6 large fresh basil leaves, torn<br />

4 sprigs fresh thyme<br />

1 tsp. sweet Hungarian paprika<br />

¼ tsp. cayenne; more to taste<br />

Kosher salt and freshly ground<br />

black pepper<br />

9 Tbs. extra­virgin olive oil<br />

3 cups Roasted Vegetable Broth<br />

(recipe above) or store­bought<br />

lower­salt vegetable or chicken broth<br />

¼ cup heavy cream<br />

1½ Tbs. red­wine vinegar<br />

2 Tbs. small (nonpareil) capers,<br />

drained and patted dry<br />

Position a rack in the center of the oven and<br />

heat the oven to 450°f.<br />

In a large roasting pan, toss the peppers,<br />

tomatoes, carrots, onions, basil, and thyme<br />

with the paprika, cayenne, 1 tsp. salt, a<br />

few grinds of pepper, and 6 Tbs. of the oil.<br />

roast the vegetables, turning them every<br />

15 minutes or so, until tender and browned in<br />

spots, about 45 minutes.<br />

Discard the thyme stems and let the<br />

vegetables cool for about 15 minutes.<br />

Put one-third of the vegetables in a<br />

blender with 1 cup of the broth. Purée until<br />

very smooth, about 2 minutes. strain through<br />

a fine- or medium-mesh sieve set over a<br />

4-quart saucepan, using a silicone spatula<br />

to press all of the liquid through; discard any<br />

solids. repeat with the remaining vegetables<br />

(including any liquid from the pan) and broth<br />

in two more batches.<br />

stir in the cream and bring to a simmer<br />

over medium-low heat. stir in the vinegar and<br />

gently simmer for 5 minutes. season to taste<br />

with salt and cayenne. remove from the heat<br />

and let cool to warm or room temperature.<br />

When ready to serve, heat the remaining<br />

3 Tbs. oil in an 8-inch skillet over mediumhigh<br />

heat until shimmering hot. Add the<br />

capers and cook, stirring, until they begin to<br />

open like little flowers and become crispy and<br />

brown, about 30 seconds. Drain the capers<br />

in a small fine-mesh sieve set over a bowl.<br />

Transfer the capers to a paper towel–lined<br />

plate; reserve the oil.<br />

serve the soup drizzled with the reserved<br />

caper oil and garnished with the fried capers.<br />

fINecookING.com 41


summer greens and rice soup<br />

Lettuce in soup may seem a bit odd, but this Italian classic is delicate and ever-so-slightly<br />

sweet. Look for lettuce with good flavor and a sturdy texture—red oak or red leaf, or a mix<br />

of both, works well; mesclun mix will not do because it becomes stringy when cooked. If the<br />

chard at the market calls your name, feel free to substitute it for the spinach. Serves 6<br />

3 Tbs. extra­virgin olive oil;<br />

more for serving<br />

2 medium carrots, finely chopped<br />

1 large celery rib, finely chopped<br />

1 small red onion, finely chopped<br />

1 medium clove garlic, minced<br />

1 Tbs. minced fresh flat­leaf parsley<br />

1 medium Yukon Gold potato, peeled and<br />

cut into ½­inch pieces<br />

Kosher salt<br />

8 oz. mature spinach, trimmed<br />

and cut into ½­inch­thick<br />

strips (5 cups)<br />

5 oz. red oak or red leaf lettuce, cut into<br />

½­inch­thick strips (5 cups)<br />

5 oz. romaine lettuce, cut into ½­inch­thick<br />

strips (3 cups)<br />

8 cups Roasted Vegetable Broth<br />

(recipe, p. 41) or store­bought<br />

lower­salt vegetable or chicken broth<br />

¾ cup arborio rice<br />

1 2­inch piece Grana Padano or Parmigiano­<br />

Reggiano rind (optional)<br />

Freshly ground black pepper<br />

2 Tbs. chopped fresh basil<br />

Warm the oil in a 5-quart heavy-duty pot<br />

over medium-low heat. When it’s warm—<br />

not hot—add the carrots, celery, onion,<br />

garlic, and parsley. Cook, stirring often,<br />

until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes.<br />

Add the potato and cook, stirring<br />

often, until it has begun to soften, about<br />

5 minutes; turn the heat down if the vegetables<br />

begin to color.<br />

Season the vegetables with 1 tsp. salt,<br />

then stir in the greens by the handful—it<br />

will seem like a lot, but they will cook down.<br />

Cover the pot and cook over low heat until<br />

the greens have started to wilt, about<br />

3 minutes. Uncover and continue to cook,<br />

stirring occasionally, until the greens are<br />

completely wilted, about 3 minutes more.<br />

Turn the heat up to medium high and add<br />

the broth, rice, and cheese rind, if using.<br />

Bring the soup to a boil. Turn the heat down<br />

to maintain a simmer and cook, uncovered,<br />

until the rice is very tender and has begun to<br />

split, 20 to 25 minutes. Season to taste with<br />

salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and<br />

stir in the basil. Let cool to warm or room<br />

temperature.<br />

Serve the soup drizzled with extra-virgin<br />

olive oil.


farmers’ market minestrone<br />

The word minestrone means “big soup” in Italian, and that’s just what this is: a richly flavored,<br />

chunky vegetable-and-pasta soup. This version is in bianco, which is to say, white, or without<br />

tomato. Feel free to add a couple of diced peeled plum tomatoes, if you like. Serves 6<br />

¼ cup extra­virgin olive oil<br />

3 medium celery ribs, cut into<br />

¼­inch pieces<br />

2 medium carrots, cut into<br />

¼­inch pieces<br />

2 medium cloves garlic, minced<br />

1 medium red onion, cut into<br />

¼­inch pieces<br />

2 Tbs. minced fresh flat­leaf parsley<br />

1 small eggplant, cut into<br />

½­inch pieces<br />

1 large red potato, cut into<br />

½­inch pieces<br />

1 medium yellow squash, cut into<br />

½­inch pieces<br />

1 medium zucchini, cut into<br />

½­inch pieces<br />

Kosher salt and freshly ground<br />

black pepper<br />

Kernels from 1 ear fresh corn<br />

6 to 8 cups Roasted Vegetable<br />

Broth (recipe, p. 41) or storebought<br />

lower­salt vegetable or<br />

chicken broth<br />

1 cup dried tubetti or small<br />

pasta shells<br />

½ oz. (½ cup) finely grated Grana<br />

Padano or Parmigiano­Reggiano;<br />

more for serving<br />

¼ cup thinly sliced fresh basil<br />

Warm the oil in a 5-quart heavy-duty<br />

pot over medium-low heat. When it’s<br />

warm—not hot—add the celery, carrots,<br />

garlic, onion, and parsley. cook, stirring<br />

occasionally, until the onion is translucent<br />

and the carrots have begun to<br />

soften, about 10 minutes.<br />

stir in the eggplant, potato, yellow<br />

squash, zucchini, ½ tsp. salt, and a<br />

few grinds of pepper. cook, stirring<br />

often (the potato tends to stick to<br />

the bottom of the pot), until the<br />

vegetables are tender but still hold<br />

their shape, 15 to 20 minutes.<br />

Add the corn and 6 cups of the<br />

broth; bring to a boil. Turn the heat<br />

down to low, partially cover, and<br />

simmer gently for 10 minutes. return<br />

to a boil and stir in the pasta. simmer,<br />

stirring once or twice, until the pasta is<br />

al dente or even a little bit more tender;<br />

cooking time will depend on the shape<br />

and brand of pasta you use. Add more<br />

broth to thin the soup, if you like.<br />

season to taste with salt and pepper.<br />

remove from the heat and stir in the<br />

cheese and basil. Let cool to warm or<br />

room temperature before serving; the<br />

soup will thicken as it cools. serve with<br />

additional grated cheese at the table.<br />

fINecookING.com 43


Tropical<br />

Take backyard barbecue recipes to the<br />

bright and flavorful tropics.<br />

Bites & Sips<br />

when the weather’s warm, it’s time to take<br />

dinner outside. This summer, add flair to the<br />

picnic table with recipes that range from Jamaican<br />

rice and beans and Cuban slow-cooked pork to<br />

Hawaiian shrimp and Mexican fried plantains.<br />

Top off the menu with a batch of tasty rum-based<br />

cocktails and a refreshing fruit-filled dessert.<br />

grilled pork with mojo (lechon asado con mojo)<br />

This is the garlicky and grand centerpiece of Cuban celebrations.<br />

The pork needs at least 8 hours to marinate in the mojo<br />

and about that long to cook, but the results—unbelievably<br />

tender meat and crisp, crackly skin—are worth the wait.<br />

Serves 10<br />

FOR THE MOJO<br />

50 peeled cloves garlic<br />

5/8 oz. kosher salt (11/2 Tbs.<br />

Diamond Crystal or<br />

1 Tbs. Morton)<br />

1 Tbs. freshly cracked<br />

black pepper<br />

1 Tbs. dried oregano<br />

1/4 cup plus 2 Tbs. fresh orange<br />

juice (from 1 medium)<br />

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice<br />

(from 1 large)<br />

2 Tbs. fresh lime juice<br />

(from 1 small)<br />

FOR THE PORK<br />

1 6- to 8-lb. bone-in, skin-on<br />

pork shoulder<br />

1 medium red onion,<br />

thinly sliced<br />

2/3 cup olive oil<br />

1/3 cup fresh lemon juice<br />

(from 11/2 lemons)<br />

3 large lemons, cut into wedges<br />

Flaky sea salt, such as Maldon<br />

MAKE THE MOJO<br />

Combine the garlic, salt, pepper,<br />

and oregano in a food processor<br />

and pulse until finely chopped.<br />

Transfer to a medium bowl and<br />

whisk in the juices. Reserve 1/2 cup<br />

of the mojo and refrigerate until<br />

ready to serve.<br />

MARINATE AND GRILL THE PORK<br />

Use a paring knife to make<br />

20 deep slits all over the pork.<br />

Using your fingers, push the<br />

remaining mojo into the slits.<br />

Wrap the pork well in plastic wrap,<br />

place skin side up on a rimmed<br />

baking sheet or platter, and<br />

refrigerate for at least 8 and up<br />

to 24 hours.<br />

Let the pork sit at room temperature<br />

for 1 hour before cooking.<br />

Meanwhile, set up a charcoal<br />

or gas grill for indirect cooking<br />

between 325°F and 350°F; if<br />

using a charcoal grill, bank the lit,<br />

ashed-over coals to one side of<br />

the grill. Cover the grill, and adjust<br />

the vents as needed to reach<br />

the temperature range. For a gas<br />

grill, cover the grill, turn off one or<br />

more of the burners, and adjust<br />

the active burner(s) to reach the<br />

temperature range.<br />

Pat the pork skin dry with<br />

paper towels. Put the pork, skin<br />

side up, on the cooler part of the<br />

grill and cook, rotating (but not<br />

flipping) every couple of hours,<br />

until the skin is crisp and an<br />

instant-read thermometer registers<br />

190°F to 200°F in the center<br />

of the pork, 6 to 8 hours.<br />

Toward the end of the pork’s<br />

cooking, combine the reserved<br />

1/2 cup mojo, the onion, olive oil,<br />

and lemon juice in a 2-quart<br />

saucepan. Cook, stirring often,<br />

over medium-low heat, until the<br />

onion softens and the flavors<br />

meld, about 8 minutes. (The<br />

mojo can sit at room temperature<br />

for a few hours.)<br />

SERVE the pork<br />

Transfer the pork to a cutting<br />

board. Remove the skin. Tent<br />

just the pork with foil and let sit<br />

for up to an hour before serving.<br />

Scrape off and discard the soft<br />

fat underneath the skin, then cut<br />

the crispy part (the crackling)<br />

into bite-size pieces. Transfer<br />

to a small platter, add a few<br />

lemon wedges, and serve the<br />

chicharrones (cracklings) as an<br />

appetizer.<br />

Meanwhile, use your hands<br />

to break the meat into chunks<br />

and transfer to a large bowl. Pour<br />

about 1/3 cup of the mojo over it<br />

and toss to coat. Transfer to a<br />

large platter along with the<br />

remaining lemon wedges.<br />

Sprinkle with the sea salt and<br />

serve, passing the remaining<br />

mojo around the table with it.<br />

44 cookfresh summer 2017


finecooking.com 45


hemingway special<br />

Created for the daiquiri-loving expat Ernest<br />

Hemingway at El Floridita in Havana, this cocktail<br />

(also called a Papa Doble) was originally made<br />

without any sugar and with twice the rum. This<br />

version offers a little sweetness, by rimming the<br />

glass with turbinado sugar. Serves 1<br />

2 Tbs. turbinado (“raw”) sugar<br />

2 oz. white rum, preferably Havana Club Añejo 3 años<br />

¾ oz. (11/2 Tbs.) fresh lime juice<br />

1/2 oz. (1 Tbs.) fresh grapefruit juice<br />

1/2 oz. (1 Tbs.) maraschino liqueur<br />

1 maraschino cherry, for garnish<br />

1 grapefruit zest curl, for garnish<br />

Wet the rim of a cocktail glass in a little water and then dip<br />

the rim into a small dish containing the sugar. Place the<br />

glass in the freezer until ready to use.<br />

Fill a cocktail shaker with ice and add the rum, lime and<br />

grapefruit juices, and maraschino liqueur. Put the lid on<br />

the shaker, making sure it has a good seal. Shake vigorously<br />

until frothy, at least 30 seconds. Strain into the prepared<br />

glass. Garnish with the cherry and zest.<br />

grilled mojo-marinated<br />

flank steak<br />

Mojos are boldly seasoned Latin American<br />

vinaigrette-type sauces. This one is good on<br />

chicken as well as on flank steak. Thick slices<br />

of grilled Bermuda onion make a tasty<br />

accompaniment. Serves 4 to 6<br />

For the mojo<br />

12 cloves garlic (or 4 Tbs. minced garlic)<br />

2 fresh habaneros or other spicy<br />

chiles, cored, seeded, and minced<br />

(wear gloves to prevent irritation)<br />

4 tsp. whole cumin seeds, toasted<br />

Kosher salt<br />

1 cup olive oil<br />

1/3 cup fresh lime juice<br />

1/3 cup fresh orange juice<br />

11/2 Tbs. sherry vinegar<br />

Freshly ground black pepper<br />

For the steak<br />

1 11/2-lb. flank steak<br />

Kosher salt and freshly<br />

ground black pepper<br />

Make the mojo<br />

Mash the raw garlic, chiles, cumin, and 1 tsp. salt in a<br />

mortar and pestle until fairly smooth. (Alternatively, use<br />

a food processor, pulsing until the ingredients are finely<br />

chopped but not puréed.) Scrape the mixture into a bowl<br />

and set aside.<br />

Heat the olive oil until fairly hot but not smoking, and<br />

pour it over the garlic-chile mixture (the oil should sizzle<br />

when it hits the cool ingredients), stir, and let stand for<br />

10 minutes. This will cook the garlic slightly. Whisk in the<br />

lime juice, orange juice, and vinegar. Season with salt and<br />

black pepper and set aside to cool completely.<br />

Put the steak in a zip-top bag or a shallow bowl and pour<br />

in 1 cup of the cooled mojo. Seal and refrigerate for at least<br />

2 hours or overnight, turning occasionally. Refrigerate the<br />

remaining 1 cup mojo.<br />

Grill and serve<br />

Heat a gas grill to medium high or prepare a medium-hot<br />

charcoal fire. When the grill is ready, remove the steak<br />

from the marinade (discard the marinade), pat dry, and<br />

season with salt and black pepper; grill for 5 to 7 minutes<br />

on one side and 3 to 4 minutes on the other for medium<br />

rare. Remove from the grill and let rest for 5 minutes.<br />

Meanwhile, warm the reserved mojo over low heat. Slice<br />

the flank steak very thinly on the bias and serve with the<br />

reserved mojo.<br />

46 cookfresh summer 2017


island-spiced chicken<br />

salad with mango<br />

and scallions<br />

Cinnamon and allspice give the chicken<br />

a little Jamaican jerk flavor, while diced<br />

mangos add to the Caribbean vibe. This<br />

recipe makes plenty; leftovers taste<br />

great in a tortilla for an easy lunch.<br />

Serves 6<br />

1/2 tsp. ground allspice<br />

1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon<br />

Heaping 1/4 tsp. chipotle powder<br />

Kosher salt and freshly ground<br />

black pepper<br />

2 lb. boneless, skinless chicken thighs<br />

(about 8), trimmed of fatty patches<br />

2 Anaheim or poblano chiles, halved,<br />

cored, and seeded<br />

6 scallions (both white and green<br />

parts), trimmed<br />

3 Tbs. canola or peanut oil<br />

2 ripe mangos (about 11/2 lb.), pitted<br />

and cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 2 cups)<br />

1 Tbs. fresh lime juice; more to taste<br />

1 head butter lettuce, for serving<br />

(optional)<br />

For a gas grill, light the front burner to medium<br />

high and the back burner(s) to medium. For<br />

a charcoal grill, light a medium-high fire with<br />

two-thirds of the coals banked to one side.<br />

Clean and oil the grill grates.<br />

In a small bowl, mix the allspice, cinnamon,<br />

and chi potle powder, 11/2 tsp. salt, and 1 tsp.<br />

pepper. Rub the mix all over the chicken.<br />

Sprinkle the chiles and scallions with 1 Tbs. oil<br />

and 1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper.<br />

Set the chicken over the hot zone of the<br />

fire and the chiles and scallions over the<br />

cooler zone. Grill until the chicken, peppers,<br />

and scallions have good grill marks, 3 to<br />

4 minutes. Continue to grill the peppers and<br />

scallions until they brown and become just<br />

tender, about another 3 minutes. Grill the<br />

chicken, flipping as needed, until it is firm to<br />

the touch and cooked through (slice into a<br />

thicker piece of the chicken with a knife to<br />

check), another 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer the<br />

chicken and vegetables to a large cutting<br />

board to cool. Coarsely chop the chicken,<br />

peppers, and scallions.<br />

In a large serving bowl, toss the mango with<br />

the chicken, peppers, and scallions. Add the<br />

lime juice and the remaining 2 Tbs. oil and toss<br />

well. Season with more lime juice, salt, and<br />

pepper if needed. Serve immediately, in bowls<br />

lined with lettuce (if using).<br />

48 cookfresh summer 2017


chi chi pache<br />

Created by Martin Cate of Smuggler’s<br />

Cove in San Francisco, this drink is reminiscent<br />

of a creamy piña colada with a<br />

hint of spice. Serves 1<br />

2 fl. oz. (4 Tbs.) vodka<br />

11/2 fl. oz. (3 Tbs.) 100% pineapple juice,<br />

not from concentrate<br />

1 fl. oz. (2 Tbs.) coconut cream,<br />

preferably Coco Lopez<br />

1 tsp. pimento dram, preferably<br />

St. Elizabeth Allspice Dram<br />

1 dash Angostura bitters<br />

1 cinnamon stick<br />

Pour the vodka, pineapple juice, coconut<br />

cream, pimento dram, and bitters into an<br />

18- to 20-oz. cocktail shaker filled with ice.<br />

Shake lightly and strain into an 8- to 11-oz. Collins<br />

glass filled with moreice. With a nutmeg<br />

grater, grate a little of the cinnamon stick over<br />

the drink. Garnish with the cinnamon stick.<br />

rum-glazed pork skewers<br />

with coconut rice<br />

A Caribbean-accented spice rub and glaze boost the flavor of<br />

quick-cooking pork tenderloin. Rice cooked with coconut milk adds<br />

to the tropical feel of the dish. Serves 4<br />

3 Tbs. unsalted butter<br />

1 Tbs. minced fresh ginger<br />

1 cup jasmine rice<br />

¾ cup well-shaken unsweetened<br />

coconut milk<br />

Kosher salt<br />

1/3 cup dark rum<br />

3 Tbs. packed dark brown sugar<br />

2 medium limes, finely grated to<br />

yield 1 tsp. zest and squeezed to<br />

yield 1/4 cup juice<br />

2 Tbs. vegetable oil; more<br />

as needed<br />

1 tsp. ground allspice<br />

1/8 tsp. ground cayenne<br />

Freshly ground black pepper<br />

1 1- to 11/4-lb. pork tenderloin, cut<br />

into 1-inch cubes<br />

1 medium red bell pepper, cut into<br />

1-inch squares<br />

1 red onion, cut into 1-inch pieces<br />

Lime wedges for serving<br />

(optional)<br />

Melt 1 Tbs. of the butter in a 2-quart<br />

saucepan over medium heat. Add<br />

the ginger and cook, stirring, until<br />

fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the<br />

rice and stir until well coated. Add<br />

the coconut milk, 11/2 cups water, and<br />

¾ tsp. salt; bring to a simmer. Reduce<br />

the heat to low, cover, and cook<br />

until the liquid is absorbed, about<br />

15 minutes. Fluff with a fork, cover,<br />

and set aside.<br />

Meanwhile, combine the rum,<br />

brown sugar, 2 Tbs. of the lime juice,<br />

and the remaining 2 Tbs. butter in a<br />

1-quart saucepan. Bring to a simmer<br />

over medium heat and cook until<br />

syrupy, about 5 minutes. Stir in 1/8 tsp.<br />

salt and remove from the heat.<br />

In a medium bowl, combine the<br />

remaining 2 Tbs. lime juice with<br />

the oil, allspice, cayenne, 11/2 tsp.<br />

salt, and 1/2 tsp. black pepper. Add<br />

the pork and toss to coat. Thread<br />

the pork, bell pepper, and onions<br />

onto four 12-inch metal skewers,<br />

alternating the meat and vegetables.<br />

Prepare a medium-high (400°F)<br />

gas or charcoal grill fire or heat a<br />

large grill pan over medium-high<br />

heat. Oil the grate or pan. Grill the<br />

skewers until seared on all sides,<br />

about 4 minutes total. Brush the<br />

skewers with the glaze and grill,<br />

turning occasionally, until the pork<br />

is browned on the outside but<br />

still slightly pink in the center, 2 to<br />

4 minutes more.<br />

Add the zest to the rice and<br />

fluff. Brush the skewers with any<br />

additional glaze and serve with the<br />

rice and lime wedges, if you like.<br />

finecooking.com 49


jamaican rice and peas<br />

This is really a rice and beans dish, but in Jamaica,<br />

beans are called peas. Serves 8 to 10<br />

2 cloves garlic, smashed<br />

1 1/2-inch piece ginger, unpeeled, crushed<br />

with a mallet or the side of a knife<br />

10 whole allspice berries<br />

5 oz. (¾ cup) dried red kidney beans,<br />

picked over and rinsed<br />

1 can (about 14 oz.) coconut milk<br />

11/2 tsp. kosher salt<br />

1 tsp. cracked black peppercorns<br />

2 sprigs fresh thyme<br />

1 scallion, root trimmed<br />

2 cups raw long-grain rice<br />

1 fresh Scotch bonnet chile or habanero<br />

Tie the garlic, ginger, and allspice berries in a<br />

small cheesecloth pouch. In a 3-quart ovenproof<br />

pot, combine the pouch, beans, coconut<br />

milk, and 3 cups water. Bring to a boil, reduce to<br />

a simmer, and cook until the beans are soft,<br />

11/4 to 2 hours. If necessary, add more water<br />

during cooking to keep the beans covered.<br />

Heat the oven to 350°F. Add the salt,<br />

pepper, thyme, and scallion to the beans. Add<br />

the rice and enough water to cover the rice by<br />

about 1 inch (about 2 cups). Bring to a boil and<br />

add the whole chile; don't break, crack, or cut<br />

the chile.<br />

Cover and bake until the liquid is absorbed<br />

and the rice is tender, about 25 minutes.<br />

Remove the chile, thyme sprigs, scallion, and<br />

ginger-garlic pouch before serving.<br />

lift-off<br />

Made with falernum, a syrup<br />

spiced with ginger and clove,<br />

this drink has a remarkably<br />

flavorful boost. Serves 1<br />

11/2 fl. oz. (3 Tbs.) dark Jamaican<br />

rum, preferably Appleton<br />

Estate Extra<br />

¾ fl oz. (11/2 Tbs.) 151-proof rum,<br />

preferably Lemon Hart<br />

Demerara<br />

1/2 fl. oz. (1 Tbs.) fresh lime juice<br />

(save the juiced lime skin<br />

for garnish)<br />

1/2 fl. oz. (1 Tbs.) fresh orange juice<br />

1/2 fl. oz. (1 Tbs.) cinnamon syrup,<br />

preferably Trader Tiki’s<br />

1/4 fl. oz. (1/2 Tbs.) falernum,<br />

preferably Fee Brothers<br />

1 dash Angostura bitters<br />

Combine the rums, lime and orange<br />

juices, cinnamon syrup, falernum,<br />

and bitters in a 12-oz. glass with 1 cup<br />

of crushed ice.<br />

50 cookfresh summer 2017


spicy papaya salad<br />

This savory fruit salad is great with chicken, fish, or roast pork.<br />

The optional allspice is a nod to its Jamaican inspiration.<br />

Serves 6<br />

1 medium (3- to 4-lb.)<br />

ripe papaya<br />

1/2 small red onion, very thinly<br />

sliced (¾ cup)<br />

1/4 cup coarsely chopped<br />

fresh cilantro<br />

2 Tbs. fresh lime juice<br />

1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil<br />

1 tsp. freshly grated ginger<br />

1/2 to 1 tsp. minced fresh Thai<br />

bird or habanero chile<br />

1/8 tsp. ground allspice<br />

(optional)<br />

1/2 tsp. kosher salt<br />

Cut the papaya in half lengthwise.<br />

Using a spoon, scoop out and<br />

discard the seeds. Cut each half<br />

lengthwise into ¾-inch strips.<br />

Using a sharp paring knife, peel<br />

the strips, removing the skin as<br />

well as all the firm, lighter-colored<br />

flesh next to it. Cut the fruit crosswise<br />

into ¾-inch chunks and put<br />

in a large bowl.<br />

Add the remaining ingredients<br />

and toss to combine. Let sit for<br />

10 minutes at room temperature<br />

to meld the flavors, and serve.<br />

hawaiian garlic shrimp<br />

Inspired by the garlic shrimp served from<br />

food trucks along Oahu’s North Shore, this<br />

buttery shrimp is classically paired with “two<br />

scoops rice,” as they say there. Serves 4<br />

31/2 oz. (¾ cup) all-purpose flour<br />

11/2 tsp. sweet paprika<br />

Kosher salt<br />

1 lb. extra-jumbo shrimp (16 to 20 per lb.),<br />

peeled, deveined, and patted dry<br />

3 Tbs. grapeseed or canola oil<br />

8 large cloves garlic, coarsely chopped<br />

(about 1/4 cup)<br />

1/2 cup sake or dry white wine<br />

11/2 oz. (3 Tbs.) cold unsalted butter,<br />

cut into 3 pieces<br />

1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro<br />

1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice<br />

In a shallow bowl, combine the flour, paprika, and<br />

11/2 tsp. salt. Lightly dredge the shrimp in the mixture,<br />

shaking off the excess; set aside.<br />

Heat a heavy-duty 12-inch skillet over mediumlow<br />

heat. Add the oil, garlic, and a pinch of salt.<br />

Cook, stirring, until the garlic is tender, about<br />

2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove and<br />

reserve the garlic, leaving the oil in the pan.<br />

Turn the heat up to medium high and add the<br />

shrimp in a single layer. Cook undisturbed for<br />

2 minutes, then flip and cook until nearly opaque<br />

in the center, 1 to 2 minutes more. Add the sake<br />

and 1/2 tsp. salt and cook, flipping the shrimp once,<br />

until the liquid is reduced by half, about 3 minutes.<br />

Add the butter and the reserved garlic, and cook,<br />

swirling the pan, until the sauce is emulsified.<br />

Remove from the heat, add the cilantro and lemon<br />

juice, and toss to combine. Season to taste with<br />

salt and serve.<br />

finecooking.com 51


cream cheese and guava swirl ice cream<br />

Guava and cream cheese is a classic<br />

Cuban combination. Guava’s pearstrawberry<br />

personality pairs so well with<br />

the tangy cheese that it’s easy to see<br />

why. Here, the cream cheese is used to<br />

make a rich ice cream that gets swirled<br />

with guava purée for a dessert few can<br />

resist. Serves 10<br />

8 oz. cream cheese, softened<br />

¾ cup granulated sugar<br />

1 cup cold sour cream<br />

1 cup cold heavy cream<br />

2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice<br />

1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract<br />

Pinch of kosher salt<br />

6 oz. (about 1/2 cup) guava paste,<br />

cut into 1/2-inch slices, or guava jelly,<br />

preferably Goya brand (see p. 93)<br />

Cones for serving, if you like<br />

Beat the cream cheese with an electric<br />

mixer on medium speed until smooth, about<br />

2 minutes. Add the sugar 1/4 cup at a time,<br />

beating well after each addition. Add the sour<br />

cream, heavy cream, lemon juice, vanilla, and<br />

salt and beat just until smooth. Cover with<br />

plastic wrap and refrigerate until very cold,<br />

about 1 hour.<br />

Meanwhile, cook the guava paste or jelly<br />

and 1/2 cup water in an 8-inch skillet over<br />

medium-low heat, mashing with a fork or<br />

potato masher, until mostly melted with<br />

some smaller chunks, about 6 minutes.<br />

Transfer to a bowl and chill in the refrigerator<br />

until cooled but still pourable, about 1 hour.<br />

(If it does solidify, reheat and rechill.)<br />

Whisk the cream cheese mixture to<br />

loosen it, then freeze in an ice cream maker<br />

according to the manufacturer’s directions<br />

until slightly thicker than soft-serve ice<br />

cream, about 15 minutes. Transfer to a<br />

freezer storage container. Using a wide<br />

spatula, gently fold in the guava to create<br />

ribbons throughout. Freeze until ready<br />

to serve.<br />

52 cookfresh summer 2017


strawberry mojito<br />

A mojito is traditionally made with white rum, muddled mint and lime juice,<br />

and seltzer. Strawberries make this cocktail both sweeter and more tart—a<br />

nice match for bold amber rum or more subtle white rum. Serves 4<br />

11 oz. strawberries, hulled (2¾ cups)<br />

1/3 cup fresh lime juice<br />

1/4 cup granulated sugar<br />

10 large fresh mint leaves<br />

1 cup white or amber rum<br />

1 cup seltzer<br />

Mint sprigs, lime wedges, or fresh<br />

strawberries, to garnish<br />

and crush with a muddler or wooden<br />

spoon until the sugar is dissolved, about<br />

1 minute. Add the rum and stir gently.<br />

Fill 4 rocks glasses three-quarters full<br />

with ice, divide the mojito among them,<br />

and top each with about 1/4 cup seltzer.<br />

Garnish with mint sprigs, lime wedges, or<br />

strawberries.<br />

In a medium pitcher, combine the strawberries,<br />

lime juice, sugar, and mint leaves<br />

plátanos maduros fritos<br />

Sliced ripe plantains retain a sweet,<br />

creamy center and become caramelized<br />

around the edges when fried. This<br />

tasty side dish makes a good accompaniment<br />

to rice and beans, roasted pork,<br />

or both. Serves 6 to 8<br />

Vegetable or canola oil<br />

4 very ripe, dark brown plantains (2 lb.),<br />

ends removed, peeled, and sliced 1/2 inch<br />

thick on a sharp diagonal<br />

Fill a 12-inch heavy-duty skillet with 1/4 inch of<br />

oil (about 11/2 cups) and heat over medium<br />

heat until the tip of a plantain slice dipped in<br />

the oil sizzles vigorously.<br />

Working in batches of about 12, slide<br />

the plantain slices in one at a time, making<br />

sure they’re not touching. Fry, flipping once<br />

with tongs or a fork, until golden brown on<br />

both sides, 4 to 6 minutes total. Transfer<br />

to a paper towel–lined plate. Repeat with<br />

the remaining plantains, reheating the oil<br />

as needed between batches. Serve hot.<br />

finecooking.com 53


Spelt Salad with Cherry Tomatoes and Zucchini<br />

Dressing: red-wine vinegar<br />

Add-ins: cherry tomatoes, zucchini, scallions, basil, oregano<br />

Millet Salad with Avocado and Citrus<br />

Dressing: grapefruit juice, white-wine vinegar, honey<br />

Add-ins: avocados, oranges, grapefruit, red onion, mint<br />

The New<br />

Summer Side<br />

Make-ahead and endlessly versatile, grain salad just might be the perfect potluck dish.<br />

Basmati Rice Salad with Mango and Cucumber<br />

Dressing: rice vinegar, sesame oil, ginger<br />

Add-ins: mango, cucumbers, scallions, cilantro<br />

Bulgur Salad with Carrots and Peppers<br />

Dressing: lemon juice, tahini<br />

Add-ins: carrots, red bell peppers, cucumbers, feta, parsley, dill<br />

54 cookfresh summer 2017


Farro Salad with Artichokes and Fennel<br />

Dressing: red-wine vinegar, lemon zest, black olives<br />

Add-ins: artichokes, fennel, radicchio, cannellini beans, pine nuts, basil<br />

Brown Rice Salad with Apples and Cheddar<br />

Dressing: cider vinegar<br />

Add-ins: apples, grapes, celery, lentils, Cheddar, almonds, parsley<br />

say you’re going to a summer potluck,<br />

picnic, or barbecue. What do you bring? One sure-toplease<br />

answer is a grain salad. Not only can it be made<br />

completely ahead, but it also holds up beautifully and<br />

tastes even better the next day. Plus, it’s easy to customize<br />

because the flavor combinations are virtually endless;<br />

grains are like a blank canvas, so they go well with<br />

just about any ingredient. And best of all, the method<br />

couldn’t be simpler.<br />

To start, cook your grain of choice (find out how on<br />

p. 56). You can choose a familiar one, like rice or barley,<br />

or try something more unusual, like farro or spelt. Next,<br />

whisk together a vinaigrette, which is easy to vary with<br />

your choice of vinegar, citrus juice, or aromatics. Finally,<br />

prep your favorite add-in ingredients. Fresh vegetables<br />

or fruits and herbs are essential, but you can also experiment<br />

with cheeses, dried fruits, beans, and nuts. Toss it<br />

all together, and you’ve got a salad that’s delicious and<br />

healthful—an ideal contribution to any summer meal.<br />

Barley Salad with Peas and Asparagus<br />

Dressing: lemon juice, lemon zest<br />

Add-ins: English peas, sugar snap peas, asparagus, dill, mint<br />

Quinoa Salad with Pears and Dried Cherries<br />

Dressing: Champagne vinegar, honey<br />

Add-ins: pears, dried cherries, goat cheese, walnuts, tarragon


cooking without recipes<br />

summer grain salad<br />

If you can, make your salad in advance—even up to a day before serving—to give the flavors time to meld. Take the salad out<br />

of the refrigerator 30 to 45 minutes before serving so that it’s not ice cold. It’s best just slightly chilled or at room temperature.<br />

Taste and adjust the seasoning before serving to be sure the salad is flavorful and bright. Serves 8 to 10<br />

step 1<br />

cook the grains<br />

The cooking method will vary, depending on the grain you choose. For farro,<br />

rice, quinoa, barley, or millet, you boil the grain until tender, while wheat<br />

berries and spelt need soaking before cooking. For bulgur, just pour boiling<br />

water over the grain and let it sit until the water is absorbed. (See below<br />

for details.)<br />

Grain of choice<br />

Kosher salt<br />

1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil<br />

If using wheat berries or spelt, soak them<br />

for 10 to 18 hours in a bowl of cold water<br />

and drain before cooking.<br />

If using bulgur, pour 31/2 cups boiling<br />

water over the bulgur in a medium bowl,<br />

stir, and let sit until the water is absorbed<br />

and the bulgur is tender, 20 to 25 minutes<br />

(do not cook further).<br />

For all other grains, rinse under cold<br />

water and drain before cooking.<br />

Bring 7 cups of water to a boil in a<br />

4-quart pot over high heat. Add ¾ tsp.<br />

salt. Add the grain, reduce the heat to<br />

a simmer, and cook uncovered, stirring<br />

occasionally and adding more boiling<br />

water as necessary to keep the grain<br />

covered, until tender (see below for<br />

cooking times).<br />

Drain and rinse the grain with cold<br />

water to stop the cooking. Transfer the<br />

grain to a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet,<br />

drizzle with the oil, and toss lightly to<br />

coat. Spread the grain on the baking<br />

sheet and cool completely at room<br />

temperature or in the refrigerator.<br />

Grains<br />

Choose one (quantities yield 6 cups cooked)<br />

Pearled barley<br />

13/4 cups; cook 30 to<br />

45 minutes<br />

Wheat berries<br />

21/4 cups; soak; cook 1 to<br />

11/2 hours<br />

Basmati rice<br />

21/2 cups; cook 10 to<br />

15 minutes<br />

Semi-pearled farro<br />

3 cups; cook 30 to<br />

35 minutes<br />

Brown rice<br />

21/2 cups; cook 20 to<br />

25 minutes<br />

Spelt<br />

3 cups; soak; cook<br />

45 to 60 minutes<br />

After cooking the grains,<br />

spread them on a large baking<br />

sheet and toss them with oil<br />

to keep them from sticking<br />

together.<br />

Quinoa<br />

2 cups; cook 15 to<br />

20 minutes<br />

Medium-grind bulgur<br />

21/4 cups<br />

Millet<br />

13/4 cups; cook 15 to<br />

20 minutes<br />

56 cookfresh summer 2017


step 2<br />

make a vinaigrette<br />

The vinaigrette should have an<br />

assertive flavor that doesn’t get lost<br />

when mixed with the grains, so once<br />

you’ve made it, taste and adjust the<br />

seasoning with salt and more vinegar<br />

or citrus juice.<br />

1/3 cup vinegar or citrus juice of choice<br />

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil<br />

Aromatics and flavor boosters<br />

of choice<br />

Salt and freshly ground black pepper<br />

Put the vinegar and/or citrus juice in a<br />

small bowl and gradually whisk in the oil.<br />

Whisk in the aromatics and/or flavor<br />

boosters (if using). Taste and season with<br />

salt, pepper, and additional vinegar, citrus<br />

juice, or oil as needed.<br />

Vinegars and Citrus Juice<br />

Choose one or two (1/3 cup total)<br />

Aromatics and Flavor Boosters (optional)<br />

Choose one or two<br />

Red-wine vinegar<br />

Balsamic vinegar<br />

Black or green olives,<br />

pitted and chopped, 1/2 cup<br />

Honey<br />

2 to 3 tsp.<br />

Asian sesame oil<br />

1 Tbs.<br />

Champagne vinegar<br />

White-wine vinegar<br />

Roasted walnut or other<br />

roasted nut oil<br />

1 to 2 Tbs.<br />

Tahini<br />

2 to 3 Tbs.<br />

Soy sauce<br />

1 to 2 Tbs.<br />

Plain rice vinegar<br />

Sherry vinegar<br />

Capers or chopped<br />

caper berries<br />

up to 1/4 cup<br />

Jalapeño,<br />

minced, up to 1 whole<br />

Orange, lemon, lime,<br />

or grapefruit zest,<br />

finely grated, 1 to 2 tsp.<br />

Cider vinegar<br />

Lemon, lime, or grapefruit<br />

juice<br />

Mustard<br />

up to 1 Tbs.<br />

Anchovies,<br />

minced, 2 to 3<br />

Fresh ginger,<br />

finely grated, up to 2 Tbs.<br />

Whisking in small<br />

amounts of boldly<br />

flavored add-ins,<br />

like roasted walnut<br />

oil, boosts the vinaigrette’s<br />

flavor.


cooking without recipes<br />

STEP 3<br />

choose and prep your add-ins<br />

Vegetables or fruit (or both) and herbs are a must in these grain salads. Pair flavors that<br />

sound good to you, making sure to include a variety of textures and colors to give your salad<br />

interest. Then feel free to add optional dried fruit, cheese, nuts and seeds, or beans.<br />

Fresh Vegetables and Fruit<br />

choose up to four (2 to 3 cups total)<br />

Peaches, nectarines<br />

or mango,<br />

peeled, pitted, and<br />

cut into medium dice<br />

Avocado,<br />

pitted, peeled, and cut into<br />

medium dice<br />

Seedless grapes,<br />

halved<br />

Oil-packed<br />

artichoke hearts,<br />

cut into 1/2-inch wedges<br />

Apples or pears,<br />

cored and cut into medium<br />

dice or thin slices<br />

Radicchio,<br />

shredded<br />

Golden beets,<br />

roasted until tender, peeled,<br />

cut into medium dice or<br />

1/4-inch-thick rounds if small<br />

Asparagus,<br />

steamed or grilled until<br />

crisp-tender, cut into<br />

1-inch pieces<br />

Fennel,<br />

trimmed and cut into<br />

1/2-inch pieces<br />

Broccoli or cauliflower,<br />

cut into 1-inch florets,<br />

steamed until<br />

crisp-tender<br />

Carrots,<br />

cut on the diagonal into<br />

1/4-inch-thick slices,<br />

steamed until crisp-tender<br />

Brussels sprouts,<br />

quartered, steamed until<br />

crisp-tender<br />

Celery,<br />

cut on the diagonal into<br />

1/4-inch-thick slices<br />

Corn kernels,<br />

blanched if fresh,<br />

thawed if frozen<br />

Cucumbers,<br />

peeled, seeded, and cut<br />

into medium dice<br />

Grapefruit or orange<br />

segments,<br />

cut into pieces if large<br />

Green beans,<br />

cut into 1-inch pieces,<br />

steamed until crisp-tender<br />

Red onion,<br />

cut into small dice<br />

Scallions,<br />

thinly sliced diagonally<br />

Cherry tomatoes,<br />

halved<br />

English peas,<br />

blanched if fresh,<br />

thawed if frozen<br />

Red, green, or yellow<br />

bell peppers,<br />

cut into medium dice<br />

Sugar snap peas,<br />

halved on the diagonal,<br />

steamed until crisp-tender<br />

Radishes,<br />

halved and<br />

thinly sliced<br />

Summer squash or zucchini,<br />

cut into medium dice or<br />

1/4-inch-thick half-rounds<br />

Optional<br />

Add-Ins<br />

choose one to three<br />

Dried fruit<br />

(cranberries, raisins,<br />

chopped apricots or cherries,<br />

thinly sliced figs, etc.),<br />

up to 1/2 cup total<br />

Cheese<br />

(crumbled feta, blue,<br />

or goat cheese, grated<br />

Grana Padano, diced Cheddar,<br />

etc.), up to 1 cup total<br />

Toasted nuts and seeds<br />

(pine nuts, pumpkin seeds,<br />

chopped walnuts or<br />

almonds, etc.),<br />

up to 3/4 cup total<br />

Cooked beans<br />

(chickpeas, cannellini<br />

beans, lentils, kidney<br />

beans, black beans, etc.),<br />

up to 1 cup total<br />

58 cookfresh summer 2017


Fresh Herbs<br />

Choose one to three (up to 1/4 cup total)<br />

step 4<br />

dress and season<br />

Be sure to add enough vinaigrette when tossing your salad.<br />

An underdressed grain salad will be dry and short on flavor.<br />

Put the cooked and cooled grains in a large serving bowl and toss to break<br />

up any clumps. Add the add-ins and 1/2 cup vinaigrette and toss. Taste and<br />

season as needed with more vinaigrette, salt, and pepper. Serve or refrigerate<br />

for up to 1 day (let sit at room temperature so it’s not refrigeratorcold<br />

and season with more vinaigrette, salt, and pepper before serving).<br />

Chives,<br />

thinly sliced<br />

Dill,<br />

chopped<br />

Wheat Berry Salad with Green Beans and Corn<br />

Dressing: sherry vinegar, roasted walnut oil<br />

Add-ins: green beans, corn, golden beets, chives, blue cheese<br />

Flat-leaf parsley,<br />

chopped<br />

Marjoram,<br />

chopped, up to 1 Tbs.<br />

Basil,<br />

chopped<br />

Savory,<br />

chopped<br />

Oregano,<br />

chopped, up to 1 Tbs.<br />

Mint,<br />

chopped<br />

Cilantro,<br />

leaves and stems,<br />

chopped<br />

Tarragon,<br />

chopped,<br />

up to 1 Tbs.<br />

If you make your<br />

salad ahead, reserve<br />

some of the dressing<br />

so you can use it to<br />

fine-tune the salad’s<br />

flavor before serving.<br />

finecooking.com 59


a simple<br />

summertime<br />

supper<br />

Juicy grilled steak, fresh summer salads, and a homey<br />

berry buttermilk cake star in this easy outdoor menu.<br />

this summer, entertaining will be a breeze<br />

when you can count on this graceful and<br />

tempting meal. The menu relies on quality<br />

and fresh ingredients and can largely be<br />

made ahead.<br />

The meal starts with a no-fuss hors<br />

d’oeuvre of richly flavored olive oil–fried<br />

almonds. They can be made days in advance<br />

and store extremely well.<br />

You’ll light the grill for the main course,<br />

a juicy, flavor-packed (and extremely quickcooking)<br />

skirt steak. A simple marinade of<br />

fresh herbs and olive oil bring this rustic cut<br />

to life. Top the steaks with a zesty salsa verde.<br />

The steaks will be served alongside a fresh<br />

tomato and olive salad and a very simple<br />

green salad of romaine leaves with a bright<br />

lemon vinaigrette and cheese.<br />

The berry butter milk cake for dessert is<br />

a dream and actually tastes best baked a<br />

day in advance. The vanilla-scented crème<br />

fraîche lends the perfect contrast to the<br />

moist, berry-sweetened cake—though the<br />

cake is great without the crème fraîche, too.<br />

It’s the perfect ending to a simply delicious<br />

summertime meal.<br />

60 cookfresh summer 2017


menu<br />

Serves 6<br />

Olive Oil–Fried<br />

Almonds<br />

Herb-Marinated Skirt<br />

Steaks with Pesto-<br />

Style Salsa Verde<br />

Sun-Ripened Tomato<br />

and Olive Salad<br />

Romaine Hearts with<br />

Lemon Vinaigrette<br />

Berry Buttermilk Cake<br />

with Vanilla-Scented<br />

Crème Fraîche<br />

finecooking.com 61


olive oil–fried almonds<br />

The almonds and herbs are crisp, salty, and<br />

sure to whet your appetite. Canned cocktail<br />

nuts don’t hold a candle to these. Yields 2 cups<br />

2 cups blanched almonds<br />

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil<br />

8 large fresh sage leaves<br />

2 Tbs. fresh rosemary leaves<br />

1 Tbs. fresh thyme leaves<br />

1 tsp. sea salt<br />

Set a metal strainer over a large heatproof bowl to<br />

quickly drain the almonds at the end of cooking. Put<br />

the almonds and olive oil in a 3- or 4-quart saucepan<br />

with a lid (the nuts and oil should fill no more than<br />

one-third of the pot). Set the pot over medium heat,<br />

stirring almost constantly until the almonds are lightly<br />

golden, 3 to 10 minutes, depending on your stove<br />

and pot. Toss in the sage, rosemary, and thyme simultaneously<br />

and cover the pot immediately with the lid<br />

to prevent the oil from spattering. Remove the pot<br />

from the heat. The herbs will make a popping sound<br />

as they cook.<br />

After the popping dies down, remove the lid and<br />

immediately pour the almonds into the strainer.<br />

Spread the drained almonds on a rimmed baking<br />

sheet and toss with the salt. When they’re thoroughly<br />

cooled, store them in an airtight plastic container at<br />

room temperature.<br />

herb-marinated skirt steaks<br />

For the best flavor and tender ness, cook these steaks to medium<br />

rare or just barely medium. Thinner skirt steaks will cook more<br />

quickly. If you can’t grill these steaks, sear-roast them; instructions<br />

are included for both methods. Serves 6 to 8<br />

4 lb. skirt steaks (3 or 4 steaks)<br />

12 cloves garlic<br />

4 5-inch sprigs fresh rosemary<br />

16 sprigs fresh thyme<br />

1 Tbs. freshly cracked<br />

black pepper<br />

extra-virgin olive oil<br />

sea salt<br />

pesto-Style Salsa Verde<br />

(recipe, facing page)<br />

Trim the steaks of excess fat and<br />

cut into pieces that are of relatively<br />

even thickness and of manageable<br />

size. Smash the garlic cloves with<br />

the flat part of a heavy knife and<br />

then peel the cloves. Crush and<br />

tear the rosemary sprigs with your<br />

hands to release their perfume. In a<br />

large bowl, combine the steaks with<br />

the herbs, garlic, pepper, and 6 Tbs.<br />

olive oil. Toss to coat well. Cover<br />

and refrigerate for 1 to 2 days.<br />

to grill the steaks<br />

Take the steaks out of the refrigerator<br />

30 minutes before grilling and<br />

brush off the herb sprigs and garlic.<br />

Prepare a medium-hot gas or<br />

charcoal grill fire. Season the<br />

steaks with salt. Oil the grill and<br />

then grill the steaks for 2 to 3 minutes<br />

on each side for medium rare<br />

(thicker steaks will be medium<br />

rare after 3 to 5 minutes per side).<br />

Let rest for 10 minutes on a clean<br />

62 cookfresh summer 2017


cutting board before slicing thinly<br />

across the grain. Serve with the<br />

salsa verde.<br />

to sear-roast the steaks<br />

Heat the oven to 400°F. Put a<br />

rack in a rimmed baking sheet<br />

or roasting pan. Let the steaks<br />

sit at room temperature for<br />

30 minutes. Brush off the herb<br />

sprigs and garlic and season the<br />

steaks with salt. Heat a 12-inch<br />

sauté pan over high heat until<br />

very hot. Add a small amount of<br />

olive oil and as many pieces of<br />

steak as will fit without crowding<br />

(and use a splatter screen if you<br />

have one). Sear until the first side<br />

is well browned, 2 to 3 minutes.<br />

Flip and sear the other side until<br />

well browned, 2 to 3 minutes.<br />

(Reduce the heat to medium high<br />

if the pan is too hot and smoky.)<br />

Transfer the steaks to the rack on<br />

the baking sheet and continue<br />

searing the remaining steaks<br />

in batches.<br />

When all the steaks are seared,<br />

roast them in the oven until done<br />

to your liking, 5 to 10 minutes. Let<br />

the steaks rest for 10 minutes<br />

before slicing thinly across the<br />

grain. Serve with the salsa verde.<br />

pesto-style<br />

salsa verde<br />

This smooth herb sauce is<br />

more like a pesto than a traditional<br />

salsa verde. It’s delicious<br />

with anything grilled:<br />

fish, shellfish, chicken, pork,<br />

beef, and even vegetables.<br />

Red chile flakes are included<br />

for heat; it’s rounded out with<br />

freshly ground black pepper.<br />

Yields 1 cup<br />

1/4 cup blanched almonds<br />

kosher salt<br />

1 cup packed fresh flat-leaf<br />

parsley leaves<br />

1/2 cup packed fresh basil leaves<br />

1/2 cup packed fresh cilantro<br />

leaves<br />

2 medium cloves garlic,<br />

coarsely chopped<br />

1/4 tsp. dried red chile flakes<br />

Freshly ground black pepper<br />

3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil<br />

1 Tbs. white-wine vinegar<br />

Heat the oven to 400°F. Spread<br />

the almonds in a pie pan and<br />

toast the almonds in the oven<br />

until lightly golden, about 8 minutes.<br />

Transfer to a plate and<br />

let cool.<br />

Bring a large pot of water to a<br />

boil and salt the water heavily (it<br />

should taste like sea water). Add<br />

the parsley and basil leaves to<br />

the pot and blanch for 1 minute.<br />

Drain the leaves and immediately<br />

transfer them to a colander<br />

under cold running water or to an<br />

ice bath. When the leaves have<br />

cooled, squeeze them dry with<br />

your hands.<br />

Put the toasted almonds, the<br />

blanched parsley and basil, the<br />

cilantro, garlic, chile flakes, 1/2 tsp.<br />

salt, and a few grinds of pepper in<br />

a blender or food pro cessor. With<br />

the machine on, gradually pour<br />

the olive oil into the feed tube<br />

and process until the mixture<br />

becomes a thick purée. The salsa<br />

verde may be made to this point<br />

a day ahead and refrigerated.<br />

Return the salsa verde to<br />

room temperature, if chilled,<br />

and stir in the vinegar just before<br />

serving to prevent discoloration.<br />

finecooking.com 63


timeline<br />

UP TO ONE<br />

WEEK AHEAD<br />

• Make the almonds.<br />

• Make the crumb topping<br />

for the cake.<br />

UP TO TWO<br />

DAYS AHEAD<br />

• Marinate the skirt steaks.<br />

• Slice the olives for the tomato<br />

and olive salad.<br />

• Toast the nuts for the<br />

salsa verde.<br />

ONE DAY AHEAD<br />

• Make the lemon vinaigrette.<br />

• Wash the romaine.<br />

• Bake the cake.<br />

TWO HOURS<br />

BEFORE SERVING<br />

• Cut the tomatoes, assemble<br />

the tomato and olive<br />

salad, and keep at room<br />

temperature.<br />

• Make the salsa verde and<br />

keep at room temperature.<br />

ONE HOUR BEFORE<br />

SERVING<br />

• Bring the lemon vinaigrette to<br />

room temperature.<br />

• Whip the crème fraîche.<br />

25 TO 30 MINUTES<br />

BEFORE SERVING<br />

• Grill the steaks.<br />

• Open the wine.<br />

A FEW MINUTES<br />

BEFORE SERVING<br />

• Toss the romaine with<br />

the vinaigrette.<br />

sun-ripened tomato and olive salad<br />

Capture the flavor of ripe, just-picked tomatoes at their peak with this salad. If your<br />

tomatoes are very sweet and need more acid, adjust the flavor by adding another<br />

tablespoon of sherry vinegar. serves 6<br />

1 cup pitted niçoise or kalamata olives<br />

2 lb. heirloom tomatoes (about 6),<br />

assorted colors and sizes<br />

1 medium shallot, minced<br />

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper<br />

1 tbs. sherry vinegar<br />

1 tbs. coarsely chopped fresh<br />

flat-leaf parsley<br />

3 tbs. extra-virgin olive oil<br />

slice the olives into quarters. core the tomatoes<br />

and slice them into large bite-size<br />

wedges or large cubes. put the olives, tomatoes,<br />

and shallot in a large bowl and season<br />

with salt and pepper to taste. add the sherry<br />

vinegar and parsley. season again with salt<br />

and pepper to taste, then add the olive oil<br />

and toss. (The salad may be prepared up to<br />

2 hours ahead, covered, and left at room temperature.<br />

Toss again before serving.)<br />

Variation<br />

substitute 2 Tbs. torn basil or a mix of<br />

chopped fresh herbs for the parsley.<br />

64 cookfresh summer 2017


omaine hearts with lemon vinaigrette<br />

The tangy lemon vinaigrette in this simple salad contrasts with the cool<br />

juiciness of the lettuce and the nutty saltiness of the shaved cheese. serves 6<br />

1 medium shallot, minced<br />

3 tbs. fresh lemon juice<br />

1/4 tsp. granulated sugar<br />

sea salt<br />

3 small hearts of romaine<br />

or 3 heads of baby<br />

romaine<br />

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil<br />

Freshly ground black<br />

pepper<br />

1/2 cup shaved grana padano<br />

or parmigiano-reggiano<br />

in a medium bowl, combine<br />

the shallot, lemon juice, sugar,<br />

and 1/2 tsp. salt. stir to dissolve<br />

the sugar and salt, then let the<br />

mixture sit for 15 minutes.<br />

meanwhile, cut off the root<br />

end of the romaine so that<br />

the leaves fall loose. Wash the<br />

leaves, spin them dry, and put<br />

them in a large bowl.<br />

slowly whisk the olive oil<br />

into the lemon juice mixture<br />

(you should have about<br />

1/2 cup vinaigrette). season<br />

with salt, if necessary, and<br />

a few grinds of pepper.<br />

(This vinaigrette can be<br />

made ahead; just whisk to<br />

recombine it before using.<br />

if you make it more than<br />

2 hours ahead, cover,<br />

refrigerate, and bring it<br />

to room temperature<br />

before using.)<br />

Toss the romaine with<br />

enough vinaigrette to lightly<br />

coat. season the salad with<br />

salt and pepper to taste.<br />

arrange the leaves on a<br />

large platter and sprinkle<br />

with the shaved cheese.<br />

shopping list<br />

MEAT, EGGS & POULTRY<br />

• 4 lb. skirt steaks<br />

• 3 large eggs<br />

FRESH PRODUCE<br />

• 2 lb. heirloom tomatoes, assorted<br />

colors and sizes<br />

• 2 medium shallots<br />

• 1 to 2 lemons<br />

• 3 small hearts of romaine or<br />

3 heads of baby romaine<br />

• 2 cups fresh blueberries,<br />

raspberries, or a mix<br />

• 1 large bunch fresh thyme<br />

• 2 large bunches fresh flat-leaf<br />

parsley (1 cup packed leaves and<br />

1 Tbs. chopped)<br />

• 1 large bunch fresh basil<br />

• 1 large bunch fresh cilantro<br />

• 1 small bunch fresh rosemary<br />

• 1 small bunch fresh sage<br />

OTHER GROCERIES<br />

• 1 package blanched almonds<br />

(enough for 2¼ cups)<br />

• 1 container sea salt<br />

• 1 bottle sherry vinegar (1 Tbs.)<br />

• 1 cup pitted Nicoise or<br />

Kalamata olives<br />

• 1 block Grana Padano or Parmigiano-<br />

Reggiano (need ½ cup shaved)<br />

• 1 carton buttermilk<br />

• 1 lb. (2 cups) crème fraîche<br />

PANTRY STAPLES<br />

• Kosher salt and black pepper<br />

• 2₃ cups extra-virgin olive oil<br />

• 1 Tbs. white-wine vinegar<br />

• 2 heads garlic<br />

• ¼ tsp. dried red chile flakes<br />

• About 4 cups unbleached<br />

all-purpose flour<br />

• About 1½ cups granulated sugar<br />

• ₃ cup light brown sugar<br />

• 1 cup (about 16 Tbs.) unsalted butter<br />

• 4 tsp. baking powder<br />

• 1 tsp. baking soda<br />

• 2 tsp. vanilla extract<br />

finecooking.com 65


erry buttermilk cake with<br />

vanilla-scented crème fraîche<br />

Any leftovers make a great breakfast treat. Serves 12 to 16<br />

For the crumb topping<br />

21/4 oz. (1/2 cup) unbleached<br />

all-purpose flour<br />

1/3 cup firmly packed light brown sugar<br />

1/4 tsp. kosher salt<br />

2 oz. (1/4 cup) unsalted butter, chilled<br />

For the cake<br />

2 cups fresh blueberries, raspberries,<br />

or a mix<br />

131/2 oz. (3 cups) unbleached all-purpose<br />

flour; more for the pan and for<br />

the berries<br />

4 tsp. baking powder<br />

1 tsp. baking soda<br />

3/4 tsp. kosher salt<br />

6 oz. (3/4 cup) unsalted butter,<br />

softened at room temperature;<br />

more for the pan<br />

11/2 cups granulated sugar<br />

3 large eggs<br />

2 tsp. pure vanilla extract<br />

11/2 cups buttermilk<br />

For the vanilla crÈme fraîche<br />

1 lb. (2 cups) crème fraîche<br />

1 tsp. pure vanilla extract<br />

1 Tbs. granulated sugar<br />

Make the crumb topping<br />

Mix the flour, brown sugar, and salt in<br />

a medium bowl. Cut the butter into<br />

chunks and add to the dry mixture.<br />

Rub the flour and butter between your<br />

fingers until the mixture just comes<br />

together and has a nice crumbly texture.<br />

(This topping can be made ahead<br />

and stored, tightly covered, in the refrigerator<br />

for up to a week.)<br />

Make the cake<br />

Rinse the berries well in a colander<br />

under running water and spread on<br />

paper towels. Let the berries air-dry for<br />

at least 15 minutes. Meanwhile, position<br />

a rack in the center of the oven and heat<br />

the oven to 350°F. Generously butter<br />

and flour a 12-cup bundt pan. In a<br />

medium bowl, mix the flour, baking<br />

powder, baking soda, and salt.<br />

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted<br />

with a paddle attachment or with a<br />

handheld electric mixer, whip the butter<br />

and sugar together on medium-high<br />

speed until light and fluffy, about<br />

3 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time,<br />

beating well for 15 seconds after each<br />

addi tion. Scrape the bowl, add the<br />

vanilla, and continue whipping until the<br />

mixture is light and fluffy, 1 to 2 minutes.<br />

On low speed, add the dry ingredients<br />

one-third at a time, alternating with the<br />

buttermilk 1/2 cup at a time. After the last<br />

addition of buttermilk, scrape the bowl,<br />

increase the speed to medium, and<br />

beat for about 15 seconds to mix the<br />

batter fully.<br />

Transfer the berries to a medium<br />

bowl and toss gently with 2 tsp. flour.<br />

Gently fold the berries into the cake<br />

batter with a rubber spatula to avoid<br />

crushing the berries too much. Scrape<br />

the batter into the prepared pan with<br />

the rubber spatula, level the batter, and<br />

sprinkle with the crumb topping.<br />

Bake until a toothpick or wooden<br />

skewer comes out clean when inserted<br />

into the middle of the cake, 45 to<br />

55 minutes. Let the cake rest for<br />

10 min utes before turning it out onto a<br />

rack. Flip the cake back over so that the<br />

crumb topping is upright. Let cool completely<br />

and wrap tightly. Store at room<br />

temperature overnight before slicing.<br />

Make the vanilla crème fraîche<br />

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with<br />

a whisk attachment or with a handheld<br />

electric mixer, whip the crème fraîche,<br />

vanilla extract, and sugar until soft<br />

peaks form, about 2 minutes. Cover<br />

and refrigerate until ready to use.<br />

To serve<br />

Slice the cake and serve each slice with<br />

a dollop of the crème fraîche.<br />

For the best flavor, make both<br />

this deliciously moist bundt<br />

cake and its crème fraîche<br />

topping one day in advance.<br />

66 cookfresh summer 2017


finecooking.com 67


COOK WITH<br />

HONEY<br />

Honey lends a distinctive sweetness to suppers,<br />

snacks, desserts, and more.<br />

No. 1: Drizzle on pancakes<br />

zucchini and corn pancakes with greek yogurt and honey<br />

Crispy and golden around the edges, fluffy and chock-full of veggies on the inside, these savory pancakes are summer-veggie<br />

comfort fare. Serve them with a dollop of Greek yogurt and a drizzle of honey. The batter will hold if you want to make it a bit<br />

ahead and cook to order. Yields 12<br />

3 Tbs. unsalted butter,<br />

plus more for frying<br />

1 Tbs. olive oil, plus more<br />

for frying<br />

1½ cups small-diced zucchini or<br />

pattypan squash (1 mediumsmall<br />

zucchini, or about 7 oz.)<br />

Kosher salt<br />

11/4 cups fresh corn kernels<br />

(from 2 to 3 ears)<br />

½ cup sliced fresh scallions<br />

(white and light green parts)<br />

½ to 1 tsp. minced fresh<br />

serrano peppers<br />

Freshly ground black pepper<br />

2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf<br />

parsley<br />

2 Tbs. sliced fresh chives<br />

½ cup plus 1 Tbs. unbleached<br />

all-purpose flour<br />

½ cup cornmeal<br />

2 tsp. sugar<br />

½ tsp. baking powder<br />

½ tsp. baking soda<br />

1 large egg, beaten<br />

/₃ cup whole milk<br />

2 Tbs. plain thick Greek yogurt<br />

or sour cream, plus more for<br />

serving<br />

Honey, preferably local,<br />

for serving<br />

In a medium (10-inch) heavy,<br />

nonstick, ovenproof skillet, heat<br />

½ Tbs. of the butter with the olive<br />

oil over medium-high heat. Add<br />

the zucchini and ₈ tsp. salt and<br />

cook, stirring only occasionally,<br />

until the zucchini are shrunken a<br />

bit and starting to brown lightly,<br />

about 3 minutes. Add another<br />

½ Tbs. butter, the corn, scallions,<br />

serranos, and ½ tsp. salt. cook,<br />

stirring occasionally, until the<br />

corn kernels are glistening and<br />

some are slightly shrunken, 2 to<br />

3 more minutes. remove the pan<br />

from the heat, season the veggies<br />

with black pepper, and transfer to<br />

a mixing bowl. Let cool to room<br />

temperature, stirring occasionally<br />

(20 to 25 minutes). stir in the<br />

parsley and chives.<br />

In a medium mixing bowl, whisk<br />

together the flour, cornmeal,<br />

sugar, baking powder, baking<br />

soda, and ½ tsp. salt.<br />

melt the remaining 2 Tbs.<br />

butter (in the microwave or on<br />

the stovetop) and let cool slightly.<br />

In a small bowl, whisk together the<br />

egg, milk, yogurt, and the melted<br />

butter. make a well in the center<br />

of the dry ingredients and pour<br />

in the liquid mixture, whisking<br />

until just combined. combine<br />

the batter with the vegetable<br />

herb mixture and stir well. Let the<br />

batter sit for 5 minutes or up to<br />

30 minutes.<br />

In a large (12-inch) nonstick<br />

skillet, heat about ½ Tbs. butter<br />

and 1 Tbs. olive oil over medium<br />

heat. When the butter has melted<br />

and is bubbling, use a 1/4-cup<br />

measure to scoop batter into<br />

the pan, forming 3 to 4 pancakes.<br />

cook for about 2 minutes, until<br />

the pancakes are golden brown<br />

on the bottom (you will see a lot<br />

of bubbles on top), then flip. cook<br />

for 1 minute more. (The bottom<br />

will brown more quickly.) Transfer<br />

to a paper towel–lined plate<br />

and keep warm in a low (200°f)<br />

oven, if desired. repeat with the<br />

remaining batter, adding butter<br />

and oil as necessary, and turning<br />

the heat down as necessary.<br />

serve warm with dollops of<br />

greek yogurt and a generous<br />

drizzle of honey.<br />

68 cookfresh summer 2017


TEMP TIP<br />

Keep adjusting the heat during fry<br />

ing. Too high, it can overcook the<br />

chicken and make the coating taste<br />

bitter. Too low, it causes the coating<br />

to absorb oil and become greasy.<br />

fInecookIng.com 69


70 cookfresh summer 2017


No. 2: Marinate meat<br />

honey-balsamic pulled pork<br />

with avocado relish<br />

Throw a few things in the slow cooker in the morning<br />

and come home to fork-tender pork simmering<br />

in a rich, sweet sauce. Serve the relish alongside<br />

or use it as a topping for pulled pork sandwiches.<br />

Serves 4, with leftover pork for 4 to 6<br />

1/4 cup honey<br />

1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce<br />

1/4 cup aged balsamic vinegar<br />

2 3-inch rosemary sprigs<br />

1 medium clove garlic, minced<br />

1 5-lb. bone-in pork shoulder<br />

Kosher salt<br />

2 ripe Hass avocados, diced<br />

2 Tbs. pickled jalapeño rings, chopped<br />

1 Tbs. apple cider vinegar<br />

Combine the honey, Worcestershire, vinegar, rosemary,<br />

and garlic in a 5- to 6-quart slow cooker. Add the pork<br />

and turn to coat. Cover and cook until fork-tender, about<br />

6 hours on high or 10 hours on low.<br />

Transfer the pork to a large cutting board. Discard the<br />

rosemary. Pour the liquid into a fat separator. Pull the pork<br />

into chunks, discarding the bone and any large pieces of<br />

fat or gristle. Transfer to a large bowl.<br />

Defat the liquid and bring to a boil in a 2-quart saucepan<br />

over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Cook until<br />

reduced to about 1 cup, about 6 minutes. Pour over the<br />

meat, toss well, and season to taste with salt.<br />

In a small bowl, mix the avocados, jalapeños, vinegar,<br />

and salt to taste. Serve with the pork.<br />

No. 3: Top fruit<br />

broiled grapefruit with<br />

honey, vanilla, and cardamom<br />

Grapefruit halves are a breakfast classic, but adding just a<br />

few intense flavorings and then broiling elevates them to a<br />

whole new level of deliciousness. Serves 4<br />

4 great ideas<br />

for leftover pork<br />

• Add to a quesadilla along with<br />

charred onions, peppers, and cheese.<br />

• Stir into a frittata with roasted<br />

poblanos and corn.<br />

• Mix into your favorite hash and serve<br />

with a poached egg.<br />

• Layer with cheese, peaches, and hot<br />

sauce for a gourmet grilled cheese.<br />

2 large grapefruit<br />

2 Tbs. honey<br />

1 tsp. pure vanilla extract<br />

Seeds of 1 cardamom pod,<br />

ground in a mortar (or a<br />

pinch of ground cardamom)<br />

Position an oven rack about<br />

4 inches below the broiler and<br />

heat the broiler on high. With a<br />

serrated knife, cut the grapefruit<br />

in even halves. Using a small<br />

paring knife or a grapefruit knife,<br />

cut each section away from the<br />

surrounding membrane. Set the<br />

grapefruit halves in a shallow<br />

broiler-safe pan (such as an<br />

enameled baking dish or a heavyduty<br />

rimmed baking sheet). If<br />

necessary, trim a thin slice off<br />

their bottoms so they sit level.<br />

In a small bowl, stir together<br />

the honey and the vanilla extract.<br />

Drizzle the honey mixture over<br />

the grapefruit halves. Dust each<br />

with a bit of cardamom. Broil until<br />

bubbling and lightly browned in<br />

spots, 4 to 6 minutes. Remove<br />

from the oven and let cool<br />

slightly. Serve warm or at room<br />

temperature.<br />

finecooking.com 71


No. 5: Flavor butter<br />

fried chicken with paprika<br />

and honey butter<br />

The union of crisp coating, smoky heat, and sweet slather is a beautiful<br />

one indeed. The butter is so yummy that you may want to double<br />

the recipe to have some on hand for toast and waffles. Serves 4<br />

No. 4: Purée<br />

and freeze<br />

mango-honeymint<br />

sorbet<br />

Here, honey replaces the sugar syrup<br />

that usually sweetens sorbet, lending<br />

it a deeper flavor. Be sure to purée the<br />

sorbet mixture until completely smooth<br />

for the best texture. Serves 8<br />

1 or 2 large oranges, finely grated to yield<br />

½ tsp. zest, squeezed to yield ½ cup juice<br />

4 cups chopped, peeled, very ripe mango<br />

(from about 3 large)<br />

½ cup mild honey (such as clover)<br />

2 tsp. chopped fresh mint<br />

½ tsp. kosher salt<br />

Combine all of the ingredients with ½ cup<br />

water in a blender and purée until completely<br />

smooth. Freeze in an ice cream maker<br />

according to the manufacturer’s instructions.<br />

Serve immediately or transfer to an airtight<br />

container and freeze for a firmer texture.<br />

The sorbet will keep in the freezer for up to<br />

1 month. If the texture becomes icy, melt the<br />

sorbet and refreeze it in the ice cream maker.<br />

FOR THE BRINE<br />

2½ oz. kosher salt (½ cup<br />

Diamond Crystal or 1/4 cup plus<br />

1 tsp. Morton)<br />

½ cup granulated sugar<br />

1/4 tsp. crushed red<br />

pepper flakes<br />

1 large orange<br />

1 large lemon<br />

2 boneless skin-on chicken<br />

breasts, halved crosswise<br />

2 boneless skin-on chicken thighs<br />

2 bone-in chicken drumsticks<br />

FOR THE HONEY BUTTER<br />

4 oz. (½ cup) unsalted butter,<br />

softened<br />

½ cup honey<br />

½ tsp. kosher salt; more to taste<br />

FOR DREDGING AND FRYING<br />

9 oz. (2 cups) all-purpose flour<br />

11/4 oz. (1/4 cup) rice flour<br />

1 Tbs. plus ½ tsp. kosher salt;<br />

more for serving<br />

1 Tbs. garlic powder<br />

1 Tbs. freshly ground<br />

black pepper<br />

2 tsp. onion powder<br />

½ tsp. baking powder<br />

1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper<br />

11/4 tsp. smoked paprika<br />

2 cups buttermilk<br />

1 gallon canola oil or<br />

rice bran oil<br />

BRINE THE CHICKEN<br />

Combine the salt, sugar, pepper<br />

flakes, and 1 gallon water in a large<br />

pot. Using a vegetable peeler, zest<br />

the orange and lemon in strips, and<br />

add the zest to the pot. Stir over<br />

medium heat until the salt and sugar<br />

dissolve, about 5 minutes. Cool to<br />

room temperature in the pot or other<br />

large container. Add the chicken, cover,<br />

and refrigerate for at least 12 and<br />

up to 24 hours.<br />

MAKE THE HONEY BUTTER<br />

Using an electric mixer, whip the butter<br />

ingredients in a medium bowl until<br />

fluffy, about 2 minutes. Season to<br />

taste with more salt.<br />

DREDGE AND FRY THE CHICKEN<br />

In a large bowl, whisk the flours, 1 Tbs.<br />

of the salt, garlic powder, black pepper,<br />

onion powder, baking powder,<br />

cayenne, and 1/4 tsp. of the paprika.<br />

Remove the chicken from the brine<br />

and blot dry with paper towels.<br />

Pour the buttermilk into a medium<br />

bowl and dip a piece of chicken into<br />

it, letting the excess drip back into<br />

the bowl. Dredge the chicken in the<br />

flour mixture, dragging it through to<br />

coat both sides but not too thickly.<br />

Repeat with the remaining pieces and<br />

set aside while you heat the oil.<br />

Set a wire rack on a paper towel–<br />

lined rimmed baking sheet. Fit an<br />

8-quart Dutch oven or other heavyduty<br />

pot with a deep-fry thermometer,<br />

add the oil, and heat over medium<br />

high to 340°F. Working in batches,<br />

fry the chicken, adjusting the heat as<br />

needed to maintain 340°F, until an<br />

instant-read thermometer registers<br />

165°F in the thickest part of each<br />

piece, about 8 minutes for the boneless<br />

pieces and 10 to 12 minutes for<br />

the drumsticks.<br />

Transfer the chicken to the rack.<br />

Combine the remaining 1 tsp. paprika<br />

and ½ tsp. kosher salt and sprinkle<br />

half of it over the chicken while it’s<br />

hot. Let the chicken rest 1 minute,<br />

turn the pieces over, then sprinkle a<br />

little of the paprika mixture over the<br />

other side. Serve with the honey butter<br />

on the side, or generously smear<br />

some of it on the chicken before<br />

serving.<br />

72 cookfresh summer 2017


TEMP TIP<br />

Keep adjusting the heat during<br />

frying . Too high , it can overcook the<br />

chicken and make the coating taste<br />

bitter . Too low , it causes the coating<br />

to absorb oil and become greasy .


No. 6: Add<br />

to a glaze<br />

honey-chipotle<br />

glazed flank steak<br />

This steak takes just a handful<br />

of minutes under the broiler.<br />

Serves 4<br />

2 tsp. olive oil<br />

2 tsp. minced garlic<br />

½ tsp. ground cumin<br />

Kosher salt<br />

1½ Tbs. minced canned chipotle<br />

in adobo sauce<br />

1 Tbs. honey<br />

1 Tbs. fresh lime juice<br />

1 tsp. finely grated lime zest<br />

1 lb. flank steak<br />

Position an oven rack 6 inches below<br />

the broiler and heat the broiler on<br />

high. Line a large rimmed baking sheet<br />

with foil.<br />

Combine 1 tsp. of the oil, the garlic,<br />

cumin, and ½ tsp. salt in a 1-quart<br />

saucepan over medium-low heat;<br />

cook, stirring occasionally, until the<br />

garlic is golden, about 2 minutes.<br />

Add the chipotle and honey and stir<br />

until heated through, about 1 minute.<br />

Remove from the heat and stir in the<br />

lime juice and zest.<br />

Rub the flank steak with the<br />

remaining 1 tsp. oil and season<br />

generously with salt. Transfer to the<br />

prepared baking sheet and broil,<br />

turning once, until slightly browned<br />

and cooked to your liking, about<br />

3 minutes per side for medium rare.<br />

Spread the glaze over the top of the<br />

steak and broil until it begins to bubble<br />

and darken in places, 1 to 2 minutes.<br />

Transfer to a cutting board and let rest<br />

for 5 minutes. Slice against the grain<br />

and serve.<br />

74 cookfresh summer 2017


No. 8: Sweeten<br />

vegetables<br />

carrot salad with<br />

walnut oil and honey<br />

You might be surprised how well the toasty flavors<br />

of the walnuts and walnut oil complement the<br />

freshly grated carrot. This salad would be a<br />

delicious accompaniment to roast pork or chicken.<br />

Serves 6<br />

No. 7: Dress a salad<br />

mixed herb salad<br />

with honey-lime dressing<br />

A riff on the cabbage slaw traditionally served with tonkatsu,<br />

this salad goes the extra flavor mile with lots of fresh herbs,<br />

crunchy vegetables, and a tangy Thai-inspired dressing.<br />

Serves 8<br />

FOR THE SALAD<br />

4 cups mixed mesclun greens<br />

2 cups coarsely chopped<br />

bibb lettuce<br />

1 cup very thinly sliced<br />

green cabbage<br />

1 cup fresh basil leaves,<br />

preferably Thai basil, large<br />

leaves coarsely torn<br />

1 cup fresh mint leaves<br />

1 cup fresh cilantro leaves,<br />

coarsely chopped<br />

4 small scallions (white and<br />

green parts), sliced into<br />

1-inch lengths<br />

1 cup cherry or grape<br />

tomatoes, halved<br />

½ cup very thinly sliced<br />

red onion<br />

½ cup very thinly sliced<br />

red bell pepper<br />

FOR THE DRESSING<br />

2½ Tbs. fresh lime juice<br />

2½ Tbs. honey<br />

2 tsp. fish sauce<br />

1/8 tsp. minced garlic<br />

2 Tbs. thinly sliced fresh red or<br />

green chile or both (optional)<br />

Kosher salt and freshly<br />

ground black pepper<br />

Make the salad<br />

In a large bowl, combine the<br />

mesclun, lettuce, cabbage, basil,<br />

mint, cilantro, scallions, tomatoes,<br />

onion, and bell pepper.<br />

Make the dressing<br />

In a small bowl, whisk the lime<br />

juice, honey, fish sauce, garlic,<br />

and chile, if using. Season to<br />

taste with salt and pepper.<br />

Just before serving, toss the<br />

salad mixture with just enough<br />

of the dressing to coat the salad<br />

lightly—you may not need all of<br />

the dressing.<br />

Make ahead:<br />

You can combine, cover, and refrigerate<br />

the salad ingredients up<br />

to 6 hours ahead. The dressing<br />

can be made up to 1 day ahead.<br />

1½ lb. carrots, peeled and grated on the medium<br />

holes of a box grater<br />

1 cup walnuts, toasted and chopped<br />

½ cup dried currants<br />

1 orange, juiced (about ½ cup)<br />

3 Tbs. apple-cider vinegar<br />

1 Tbs. honey<br />

3 Tbs. untoasted walnut oil (for sources, see p. 93)<br />

Kosher or sea salt<br />

Freshly ground black pepper<br />

2½ Tbs. finely chopped chives<br />

Combine the grated carrots, walnuts, and currants in a<br />

medium serving bowl.<br />

In a small bowl, whisk together the orange juice, cider<br />

vinegar, and honey. Slowly whisk in the walnut oil. Season<br />

with salt and pepper to taste.<br />

Toss the carrot mixture with the vinaigrette and 2 Tbs.<br />

of the chives. Adjust the seasoning to taste. You can<br />

serve the salad immediately, but it will taste even better<br />

if you let it sit at room temperature for 15 to 20 minutes.<br />

Sprinkle with the remaining ½ Tbs. chives right before<br />

serving.


Berry Sweets<br />

Make the most of fresh, ripe berries in tempting<br />

seasonal desserts.<br />

76 cookfresh summer 2017


summer<br />

berry trifle<br />

Use any type of berry you<br />

like—just make sure you<br />

choose the ripest, tastiest<br />

ones available. The bread<br />

will soak up all their sweet<br />

juices. Serves 10 to 12<br />

11/2 quarts mixed fresh berries<br />

(hull and quarter strawberries),<br />

plus extra berries<br />

for garnish<br />

3/4 cup plus 1 Tbs. granulated<br />

sugar<br />

4 tsp. minced fresh ginger<br />

1 lb. day-old French bread,<br />

crusts removed, crumb<br />

cut into 1/2-inch cubes<br />

(5 to 6 cups)<br />

1/2 cup Grand Marnier or<br />

Cointreau<br />

11/2 cups heavy cream<br />

Heat the berries and 3/4 cup of<br />

the sugar in a 4-quart saucepan<br />

over medium-high heat, stirring<br />

occasionally, until they start to<br />

release juice but are still whole<br />

and intact, about 5 minutes.<br />

Stir in the ginger and pour the<br />

mixture onto a rimmed baking<br />

sheet to cool.<br />

Meanwhile, in a large bowl,<br />

toss the bread with 5 Tbs. of<br />

the liqueur. In a chilled metal<br />

bowl with chilled beaters, whip<br />

the cream with the remaining<br />

3 Tbs. liqueur and 1 Tbs. sugar<br />

to almost-stiff peaks.<br />

In a 2- to 21/2-quart clear glass<br />

bowl, layer in the following order:<br />

1 mounded cup of bread cubes,<br />

1 cup of berries and juices, and<br />

1 cup of whipped cream. Repeat<br />

3 times—you should have 12<br />

layers total. For the final layers,<br />

use all the remaining bread,<br />

berries (and their juices), and<br />

whipped cream.<br />

Cover and refrigerate until the<br />

juice has completely softened<br />

the bread, at least 4 hours or<br />

overnight. Garnish with fresh<br />

berries before serving.<br />

blackberry ice cream<br />

Blackberry jam ups the intensity of this vibrant ice cream, enhancing the sweetness<br />

of fresh blackberries. Yields about 1 quart ice cream<br />

13/4 cups heavy cream<br />

1/4 cup whole milk<br />

1/2 cup granulated sugar<br />

7 oz. (11/2 cups) fresh or frozen blackberries<br />

1/2 cup seedless blackberry jam<br />

1 tsp. vanilla extract<br />

1/4 tsp. table salt<br />

Stir the cream, milk, and sugar in a 3-quart<br />

saucepan over medium heat until the sugar<br />

dissolves. Continue heating, undisturbed,<br />

until steam begins rising from the surface,<br />

about 2 minutes. Transfer to a blender. Add<br />

the blackberries, jam, vanilla, and salt and<br />

blend until smooth, about 1 minute. Strain<br />

through a fine-mesh sieve into a medium<br />

bowl. Refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, at<br />

least 6 hours or up to 1 day, covering with<br />

plastic wrap once cool.<br />

Stir the blackberry mixture and churn it<br />

in an ice cream machine according to the<br />

manufacturer’s instructions until it’s the<br />

consistency of soft-serve ice cream. Serve<br />

or pack into a container, seal, and store in the<br />

freezer for up to 1 week.<br />

finecooking.com 77


strawberry-yogurt brûlée<br />

Simple yogurt and fresh strawberries become a special treat<br />

with the addition of a crunchy, caramelized sugar topping.<br />

Enjoy it for breakfast or dessert. Serves 4<br />

2 cups plain whole-milk<br />

Greek yogurt<br />

1 cup coarsely chopped<br />

strawberries, plus several<br />

strawberry slices for garnish<br />

5 Tbs. turbinado or<br />

granulated sugar<br />

In a medium bowl, combine the<br />

yogurt with the chopped strawberries<br />

and 1 Tbs. sugar. Divide<br />

among four 6-oz. ramekins.<br />

Garnish each with a few strawberry<br />

slices. Sprinkle each with<br />

about 1 Tbs. sugar. Pass the flame<br />

of a torch over the sugar until it’s<br />

melted and browned, about<br />

30 seconds. Serve immediately.<br />

blueberry crostata<br />

This simple, rustic blueberry crostata is fabulous<br />

with ice cream. Serves 8<br />

3 cups (15 oz.) fresh blueberries<br />

63/4 oz. (11/2 cups) plus 3 Tbs. all-purpose flour<br />

3 Tbs. confectioners’ sugar<br />

1/4 cup granulated sugar<br />

2 Tbs. yellow cornmeal<br />

41/2 oz. (9 Tbs.) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes<br />

1 large egg yolk<br />

3 Tbs. ice water; more as needed<br />

1 large egg white beaten with 2 Tbs. water until foamy<br />

1 Tbs. turbinado or other “raw” sugar<br />

Mix the blueberries, 3 Tbs. of the flour, and the confectioners’<br />

sugar in a medium bowl. Set aside.<br />

Position racks in the top and bottom thirds of the oven<br />

and heat the oven to 350°F. Line two rimmed baking<br />

sheets with parchment.<br />

Combine the remaining 11/2 cups flour, granulated sugar,<br />

and cornmeal in a food processor and process until the<br />

consistency of fine sand. Add the butter and pulse until<br />

there are no visible pieces of butter. Add the egg yolk and<br />

water and pulse to form a soft dough, adding more water<br />

1 tsp. at a time as necessary. Gather the dough into a ball<br />

and divide into 2 even pieces.<br />

On a well-floured work surface, roll each piece of dough<br />

into an 11-inch circle and transfer to the prepared baking<br />

sheets. Divide the blueberry filling between the circles,<br />

mounding the berries and leaving a 11/2-inch edge around<br />

each circle. Sprinkle any remaining sugar-flour mixture<br />

around the berry mounds. Try to get an even amount of<br />

blueberries and dry ingredients in each crostata. Fold the<br />

edges up over the filling, pleating as you go, to partially<br />

cover the filling. Brush the exposed dough with the egg<br />

white wash and sprinkle with the raw sugar.<br />

Bake for 25 minutes. Rotate the sheets top to bottom<br />

and back to front. (If there is any white flour mixture<br />

showing, carefully spoon a little of the blueberry juices<br />

over to cover.) Continue baking until the crusts have<br />

browned and the filling is bubbling, about 25 minutes<br />

more. Cool on the baking sheets on a rack for at least<br />

15 minutes or to room temperature.<br />

To serve, slice each crostata into quarters and serve.<br />

Make ahead:<br />

The crostatas can be made up to 1 day ahead and stored<br />

on their baking sheets at room temperature, covered<br />

loosely with a clean kitchen towel. Just before serving,<br />

warm the crostatas on their baking sheets in a 200°F oven<br />

for 10 minutes.<br />

78 cookfresh summer 2017


strawberry and kiwi tart with honey cream<br />

This gorgeous tart highlights some of summer’s most beautiful produce, underscored by a mild honey<br />

cream filling. For best results, chill the filled tart before topping it with the fruit; otherwise, the filling may<br />

be too soft to hold the fruit up well. Yields one 91/2- to 11-inch tart, plus enough dough for a second tart<br />

For the crust<br />

10 oz. (21/4 cups) all-purpose flour; more for dusting<br />

31/2 oz. (3/4 cup plus 2 Tbs.) confectioners’ sugar<br />

6 oz. (12 Tbs.) cold unsalted butter,<br />

cut into 1/2-inch pieces<br />

1/4 tsp. kosher salt<br />

2 large eggs, 1 separated<br />

Cooking spray<br />

For the filling<br />

1 cup whole milk<br />

1/4 cup honey<br />

1/2 vanilla bean or 1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract or paste<br />

1 large egg<br />

1 large egg yolk<br />

11/2 Tbs. cornstarch<br />

1 Tbs. unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces<br />

1/2 cup whipping or heavy cream<br />

For topping and finishing the tart<br />

3 cups strawberries, halved, quartered, or sliced<br />

2 to 3 ripe kiwis, peeled and cut lengthwise into<br />

wedges or crosswise into rounds<br />

3 cups strawberries, halved, quartered, or sliced<br />

1/4 cup apricot or apple jelly<br />

2 Tbs. water or white wine<br />

Make the dough<br />

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine<br />

the flour, sugar, butter, and salt. Mix on low speed until<br />

the butter begins to break up, about 1 minute. Increase the<br />

speed to just below medium and continue beating until<br />

the mixture looks sandy with butter pieces the size of tiny<br />

pebbles, about 2 minutes more.<br />

Turn the mixer off and add the whole egg and egg yolk<br />

(reserve the remaining white). Mix on low speed until<br />

incorporated. Increase the speed to medium and mix<br />

just until the dough pulls away from the sides of the bowl,<br />

about 30 seconds. Do not overmix.<br />

Divide the dough in half, press each half into a disk<br />

about 4 inches across, and wrap in plastic. Refrigerate<br />

one disk for at least 3 hours and up to 24 hours. (Freeze<br />

the other disk for up to a month; thaw in the refrigerator<br />

before using.)<br />

Shape and bake the crust<br />

Lightly flour a work surface and a rolling pin. Spray a 91/2- to<br />

11-inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom with<br />

cooking spray.<br />

Working quickly, roll the dough disk into a 1/8-inch-thick<br />

round. Transfer the dough to the tart pan and gently coax<br />

it into the pan, allowing the excess dough to hang over<br />

the sides. Roll the rolling pin over the top of the pan to cut<br />

off the excess dough. Patch any tears or cracks with the<br />

scraps. Refrigerate the crust for at least 20 minutes or<br />

freeze for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, position a rack in the<br />

center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F.<br />

Line the crust with parchment paper and fill it to the<br />

very top with beans or pie weights. Bake until the edges<br />

are golden, 18 to 20 minutes. Carefully remove the weights<br />

and paper. Bake until the center of the crust looks dry and<br />

is just beginning to color, about 5 minutes.<br />

Beat the reserved egg white. Brush the inside of the<br />

crust with some of the egg white (you won’t need it all) and<br />

return the crust to the oven until the egg white has dried,<br />

about 2 minutes. (This prevents the crust from getting<br />

soggy once you add the filling.) Cool completely on a rack.<br />

Make the pastry cream<br />

Combine the milk and 2 Tbs. of the honey in a 3- to<br />

4-quart saucepan. If using a vanilla bean, split it and<br />

scrape the seeds into the milk, then add the pod. Bring to<br />

a boil, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes. Remove the<br />

vanilla bean pod, if using.<br />

Meanwhile, in a medium heatproof bowl, whisk the<br />

remaining 2 Tbs. honey with the egg, egg yolk, and cornstarch<br />

until smooth, about 1 minute. Whisk half of the hot<br />

milk into the egg mixture until combined. Off the heat,<br />

whisk the contents of the bowl back into the remaining<br />

milk in the saucepan.<br />

Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until the<br />

mixture reaches a boil; it will thicken. Continue to cook for<br />

another minute past the boil, whisking constantly. Off the<br />

heat, whisk in the butter and vanilla paste or extract, if<br />

using. Strain the pastry cream through a medium-mesh<br />

sieve into a medium heatproof bowl. Cover with plastic<br />

wrap pressed onto the surface of the pastry cream to<br />

prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate until cold, at least<br />

2 hours and up to 3 days.<br />

Fill and top the tart<br />

In a medium bowl, beat the cream to stiff peaks with an<br />

electric hand mixer or a whisk.<br />

Beat the pastry cream to soften and smooth it. With a<br />

large spatula, fold the whipped cream into the softened<br />

pastry cream until thoroughly combined. Fill the crust with<br />

the crème légère, evening it out with the spatula. Refrigerate<br />

for at least 1 hour before topping with the fruit.<br />

Arrange the strawberries and kiwi on top of the filling.<br />

Note that because the filling is soft, you’ll need to work<br />

quickly while the filling is cold and more firm. Because it’s<br />

hard to move the fruit once it’s on the filling, you may want<br />

to practice your pattern on an empty sheet pan before<br />

placing it on the tart.<br />

Put the jelly and water or wine in a small saucepan.<br />

Simmer and whisk together to form a smooth glaze. Allow<br />

to cool slightly. Brush it on the exposed fruit, being careful<br />

not to pull up the cream filling from below. Refrigerate the<br />

tart until ready to serve. Serve the tart cold, within 6 hours<br />

of topping.<br />

80 cookfresh summer 2017


two crusts<br />

This recipe makes<br />

enough dough for two<br />

tart crusts; use one<br />

now and freeze the<br />

other for a delicious<br />

tart in your future.<br />

finecooking.com 81


lemon-buttermilk chiffon cake with raspberry sauce<br />

Buttermilk makes a classic chiffon flavoring extra-tangy, while cornmeal enhances the cake’s beautiful yellow color and adds a<br />

bit of texture (but not grit). Serves 12 to 16<br />

FOR THE CAKE<br />

7 large eggs<br />

11/2 cups granulated sugar<br />

1 Tbs. plus 2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest<br />

(from 2 to 3 large lemons)<br />

7 oz. (13/4 cups) cake flour<br />

21/4 oz. (1/2 cup) stone-ground<br />

yellow cornmeal<br />

11/2 tsp. baking powder<br />

1 tsp. table salt<br />

2/3 cup buttermilk<br />

2/3 cup neutral oil, such as canola<br />

or vegetable<br />

1 tsp. pure vanilla extract<br />

FOR THE SAUCE AND SERVING<br />

4 cups fresh or frozen raspberries,<br />

rinsed and well dried; more for garnish<br />

1/2 cup seedless raspberry jam<br />

1 oz. (1/4 cup) confectioners’ sugar;<br />

more to taste<br />

pinch of table salt<br />

Fresh mint leaves (optional)<br />

Whipped cream (optional)<br />

make the cake<br />

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven<br />

and heat the oven to 325°F. Have ready an<br />

ungreased, not nonstick 10x4-inch (16-cup)<br />

angel food cake pan.<br />

Separate the eggs, putting the yolks in a<br />

small bowl and the whites in a medium bowl.<br />

In a food processor, pulse 11/4 cups of<br />

the granulated sugar and the lemon zest<br />

until the zest is finely ground, about eight<br />

1-second pulses.<br />

Sift the flour into the bowl of a stand mixer<br />

or a large mixing bowl. Whisk in the sugar mixture,<br />

cornmeal, baking powder, and salt. Add<br />

the egg yolks, buttermilk, oil, and vanilla. Using<br />

the stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment<br />

or a handheld mixer, beat on mediumlow<br />

speed until blended. Increase the speed<br />

to medium high and beat until lighter in color<br />

and thick enough to form a slowly dissolving<br />

ribbon of batter when the paddle or beaters<br />

are lifted, about 3 minutes.<br />

Using the stand mixer fitted with a clean<br />

bowl and the whisk attachment or a handheld<br />

mixer with clean beaters, beat the egg whites<br />

on medium-low speed until foamy, about<br />

1 minute. Increase the speed to medium, and<br />

beat until the whites are opaque and form<br />

very soft peaks, about 11/2 minutes. Slowly add<br />

the remaining granulated sugar, and beat until<br />

the whites are thick and shiny and form soft<br />

peaks, about 11/2 minutes.<br />

Using a rubber spatula, scrape about onefourth<br />

of the whites into the batter and gently<br />

fold until blended. Add the remaining whites<br />

and gently fold until just blended with no visible<br />

streaks of either the whites or batter.<br />

Immediately scrape the batter into the<br />

cake pan. Bake until deep golden brown and<br />

springy when touched, about 60 minutes. The<br />

top will have cracks that still look moist inside.<br />

Immediately invert the pan onto its feet or<br />

by sliding the center tube onto the neck of a<br />

bottle. Let cool completely, then remove<br />

from the pan.<br />

The cake can be served immediately or<br />

covered and stored at room temperature for<br />

up to 5 days.<br />

Make the sauce<br />

In a food processor or blender, purée the<br />

raspberries, jam, confectioners’ sugar, and<br />

salt. Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh<br />

sieve over a small bowl, pressing firmly on the<br />

seeds. Season to taste with more confectioners’<br />

sugar. The sauce can be covered and<br />

refrigerated for up to 5 days.<br />

Serve slices of the cake with the sauce,<br />

berries, mint, and whipped cream, if using.<br />

create soft peaks fold in stages cool upside down<br />

Beat the egg whites only to soft peaks; any<br />

stiffer and they won’t expand well during<br />

baking. Stop beating when the tracks from<br />

the beaters are starting to hold their shape<br />

and the peaks flop over when the beaters<br />

are lifted.<br />

Lighten the batter with one-quarter of the<br />

egg whites so it’s easier to fold in the rest.<br />

When no streaks remain, gently pour and<br />

scrape the batter into the cake pan and bake<br />

right away so that it doesn’t deflate.<br />

Invert the cake so it doesn’t collapse as it<br />

cools. If your pan doesn’t have feet, suspend it<br />

on the neck of a wine bottle. The cake will cool<br />

a little faster this way, so you might want to do<br />

this even if your pan does have feet.<br />

82 cookfresh summer 2017


loosen the sides lift from the center saw to slice<br />

Run a long, thin knife around the cake before<br />

removing it from the pan. Since you didn’t<br />

grease the pan, you need to separate the cake,<br />

or it could tear.<br />

Grasp the center tube and pull straight up.<br />

The cake should slide right out of the pan. To<br />

remove the tube part of the pan, loosen the<br />

center and bottom of the cake with the knife,<br />

and pull the tube out.<br />

Use a serrated knife and a sawing motion to<br />

slice the cake without squashing the airy texture<br />

you worked so carefully to create.<br />

finecooking.com 83


test kitchen<br />

TIPS • TECHNIQUES • INGREDIENTS<br />

a bundt<br />

pan makes<br />

the messy<br />

technique<br />

of removing<br />

kernels from<br />

the cob a little<br />

easier.<br />

84 cookfresh summer 2017


teCHniQUe<br />

cutting corn off the cob<br />

For recipes like the Zucchini and Corn Pancakes<br />

on p. 68, you’ll need to remove corn kernels from<br />

the cob. This process can be messy—they like to<br />

bounce off the cutting board and end up scattered<br />

all over the counter and floor. To keep those kernels<br />

in their place, insert the tip of the ear of corn<br />

into the center hole of a Bundt pan. Cut the kernels<br />

away from the cob in long downward strokes,<br />

letting them fall into the pan.<br />

It’s also easy to preserve fresh corn kernels to<br />

keep on hand for tossing into salads, side dishes,<br />

sautés, or other weeknight dishes. Simply cut the<br />

kernels off the cobs, as described above, and then<br />

blanch them in boiling water for 1 to 2 minutes.<br />

Drain, let cool, and store in a covered container in<br />

the fridge for up to five days. Or freeze the kernels<br />

in a single layer on a baking sheet until hard, and<br />

then store in an airtight container in the freezer,<br />

where they’ll keep for up to three months.<br />

tiP<br />

shopping for corn<br />

Sometimes even the best-looking corn is bland<br />

and starchy. That’s because as soon as corn is<br />

picked, its sugar starts converting to starch. To<br />

make sure you get the best corn possible, try to<br />

buy it at a farmstand or farmers’ market, where<br />

it’s more likely to be fresh-picked. Look for corn<br />

that still has its husks, as well as soft, almost<br />

damp-feeling silk. It’s tempting to peel back the<br />

husk to peek at the kernels, but that can dry it<br />

out. Instead, give it a gentle squeeze from end to<br />

end to feel for plump kernels.<br />

inGredient<br />

miso<br />

Once enjoyed by only the emperors and shogun<br />

of Japan, miso now appears in some form at<br />

nearly every Japanese meal. The salty, savory<br />

flavors of miso—fermented soybean paste—are<br />

essential to numerous dishes like soups, dressings,<br />

glazes, and pickles.<br />

Making miso is still a revered art, and the flavors,<br />

textures, and aromas of different varieties<br />

are judged much like fine wine. After steaming<br />

and crushing soybeans, traditional miso houses<br />

add sea salt and koji, a culture made from grains<br />

like rice and barley that triggers fermentation.<br />

types of miso:<br />

Variables like the type of koji, the ratio of soybeans<br />

to koji, salt content, and length of fermentation<br />

lead to innumerable varieties of miso<br />

ranging in color from pale golden yellow to rich<br />

chocolate brown. For flavor-pairing purposes,<br />

think of miso in terms of two broad categories:<br />

light miso—typically called white, yellow, or sweet<br />

miso—and dark miso—red, brown, barley, and<br />

soybean miso.<br />

Generally, the lighter the miso, the sweeter<br />

and more delicate its flavor. Light miso is good<br />

in salads and dressings, and with lighter foods<br />

like fish, chicken, and vege tables (see p. 38 for a<br />

broccoli with miso recipe).<br />

Dark miso, which is fermented longer, will be<br />

saltier and “meatier.” Its rich, robust flavor is<br />

good for adding depth to soups and sauces. Try it<br />

with root vegetables, beans, or winter squash.<br />

Cooking with miso:<br />

Always add miso toward the end of cooking and<br />

never boil it, as high heat will destroy both its<br />

flavor and nutrients. For the smoothest sauces<br />

and soups, whisk miso into an equal amount of<br />

slightly warm broth until smooth, and then gradually<br />

stir the thinned miso back into the pot. Use<br />

about 1 to 1½ Tbs. of miso for every cup of liquid.<br />

Miso is a good substitute for salt or soy sauce or<br />

in place of anchovy paste for vegetarian recipes.<br />

Just remember, miso is quite concentrated in<br />

flavor, so a little goes a long way.<br />

the lighter the<br />

miso’s color, the<br />

more delicate<br />

its flavor.<br />

Buying and storing miso:<br />

Look for miso in plastic tubs or bags in the refrigerated<br />

section of Asian markets or health-food<br />

stores. Miso keeps for up to a year if sealed well<br />

and refrigerated.<br />

finecooking.com 85


test kitchen<br />

Mojo, a magical sauce<br />

In English, the word mojo is pronounced<br />

moe-joe and means magic power. In Spanish<br />

and in cooking parlance, the word is pronounced<br />

moe-hoe and refers to a citrusy garlic sauce. But mojo<br />

the sauce is still magical: It can be used as a marinade<br />

(Grilled Mojo-Marinated Flank Steak, p. 46), dressing, dip,<br />

condiment, and, of course, sauce. Popular throughout the Caribbean<br />

and in Latin America, its specific makeup differs from place to place<br />

as each region puts its own local stamp on it. Additional flavorings<br />

include onion, butter, or cilantro. Mojos may be raw or cooked,<br />

which mellows and sweetens the garlic.<br />

tip<br />

glossary<br />

Don’t throw out<br />

the cilantro stems<br />

When preparing cilantro for<br />

chopping in recipes like the<br />

Spicy Chipotle Shrimp,<br />

Avocado, and Corn Fajitas on<br />

p. 33, you don’t necessarily<br />

have to remove all of the<br />

stems. Cilantro stems are quite<br />

flavorful, so if they’re thin and<br />

tender-crisp (bite one to<br />

check), just chop them up<br />

along with the leaves.<br />

ingredient<br />

Aged<br />

balsamic<br />

vinegar<br />

The Honey-Balsamic<br />

Pulled Pork recipe on<br />

p. 71 calls for an aged<br />

balsamic, but we’re<br />

not asking you to<br />

splurge on the pricey,<br />

ultra-aged stuff.<br />

Instead, we’re looking<br />

for a balsamic that’s<br />

richer, thicker, and<br />

less acidic than the<br />

one you likely use for<br />

your vinaigrette.<br />

Ideally, it’s been aged<br />

for five or more years,<br />

but not all vinegars<br />

include their age on<br />

the label. If that’s the<br />

case, tilt the bottle; if<br />

the liquid is viscous,<br />

it’s a good bet it’s aged<br />

and a bit mellower<br />

than a younger<br />

balsamic.<br />

86 cookfresh summer 2017


ingredient<br />

3 great steaks for the grill<br />

When it comes to throwing<br />

a steak on the grill, flank<br />

steak, skirt steak, and hanger<br />

steak are three of our favorite<br />

choices. These boneless cuts<br />

from the belly area of the steer<br />

are full of rich beefy flavor and<br />

chewy texture. Because they’re<br />

relatively thin with a coarse and<br />

loose grain, they absorb marinades<br />

well. And since they’re<br />

thinly sliced across the grain<br />

before serving, portion sizes<br />

are flexible—a real advantage<br />

when you have a mixed group<br />

of steak lovers and light eaters<br />

coming to dinner.<br />

As its name implies, flank<br />

steak comes from the flank<br />

area of the steer, which is just<br />

in front of the hind legs. Marinated,<br />

grilled flank steak was<br />

the original London broil, a<br />

name now used for many other<br />

beef cuts.<br />

Skirt steak comes from the<br />

belly area in between the flank<br />

and the brisket, which is near<br />

the front legs. Its long, thin,<br />

belt-like shape reflects the<br />

fact that it’s the preferred cut<br />

for fajitas—fajita means “belt”<br />

in Spanish. Try it: Herb-Marinated<br />

Skirt Steaks, p. 62.<br />

Popular in French bistros,<br />

hanger steak is an interior<br />

cut that hangs off the kidney<br />

and supports the diaphragm.<br />

Hanger steak is also known<br />

as butcher’s steak because<br />

butchers tend to save this<br />

prized cut for themselves.<br />

Because there’s only one per<br />

animal and it’s not well known<br />

outside France, it can be hard<br />

to find. If you do come across it<br />

and it still has its center membrane<br />

(as shown at right), trim<br />

it out before cooking—you’ll<br />

end up with two large pieces of<br />

hanger steak after trimming.<br />

skirt<br />

hanger<br />

flank<br />

tip<br />

A quick way to peel<br />

a ton of garlic<br />

The Grilled Pork with Mojo on p. 44<br />

calls for a whopping 50 cloves of<br />

garlic. You could buy peeled garlic to<br />

save yourself the peeling step, but if<br />

it’s not available, you can use a trick<br />

they teach in culinary school: To<br />

peel many cloves at once, put the<br />

cloves in a big metal bowl, and cover<br />

them with another metal bowl<br />

bottom side up. Then, while holding<br />

the bowls tightly together, shake<br />

like crazy. Not only is this kind of fun,<br />

but it also takes most of the skins<br />

right off.<br />

finecooking.com 87


test kitchen<br />

tiP<br />

A better way<br />

to peel a kiwi<br />

Kiwis make a colorful addition<br />

to many dishes, including the<br />

Strawberry and Kiwi tart on<br />

p. 80, but they bruise easily if<br />

handled too much. To peel one<br />

without damaging it, you can<br />

use a knife or a peeler, but<br />

there’s another tool that<br />

leaves the peeled fruit smooth<br />

and rounded instead of<br />

beveled. Here’s how to peel a<br />

kiwi with a spoon: Slice off both<br />

ends with a paring knife. Slide a<br />

soup spoon under the skin, and<br />

holding the spoon steady,<br />

gently turn the kiwi to release it<br />

from the skin.<br />

inGredient<br />

cool cucumbers for salads<br />

enGliSH<br />

PerSian<br />

JaPaneSe<br />

When choosing cucumbers<br />

for summer salads,<br />

such as the Basmati<br />

rice Salad with Mango<br />

and Cucumber on p. 54,<br />

skip the common ones<br />

at the supermarket,<br />

which usually are waxed<br />

for a longer shelf life<br />

and tend to be seedy.<br />

Instead, try one of the<br />

varieties at left. All are<br />

crisp, with small seeds,<br />

and have thin, unwaxed<br />

skin that doesn’t require<br />

peeling.<br />

tiP<br />

create your<br />

own pasta salad<br />

The method for making grain<br />

salads, pp. 54–59, also works<br />

with little pastas like fregola, orzo,<br />

ditalini, and Israeli couscous. Just<br />

keep the following tips in mind<br />

when making the swap.<br />

• Use more vinaigrette. Pasta will<br />

absorb more dressing than grains do.<br />

To compensate, use the entire amount<br />

of the vinaigrette recipe on p. 57 for a<br />

pasta salad.<br />

• Up the salt and vinegar. The flavor of<br />

pasta is more neutral than that of grains,<br />

so you may need to add more vinegar<br />

and salt to the vinaigrette to boost your<br />

salad’s flavor.<br />

• Cook your pasta until just al dente.<br />

Pasta absorbs a lot of vinaigrette and<br />

can get soggy, but if your pasta is firm,<br />

that’s less likely to happen.<br />

• don’t make pasta salad ahead. Serve<br />

it within an hour or two of making, since<br />

it doesn’t hold up as well over time as<br />

salads made with hearty grains.<br />

88 cookfresh summer 2017


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test kitchen<br />

INGREDIENT<br />

Guava<br />

Although not so well known in the<br />

United States, guava is a popular<br />

fruit in many tropical countries.<br />

Native to Mexico, Central America,<br />

and northern South America, guavas<br />

(guayabas in Spanish) are small round<br />

or oval fruits with a yellow to dark green<br />

skin and white to hot pink flesh.<br />

Fresh guava isn’t in season in the summer, so<br />

you can use either guava jelly or paste in the Cream<br />

Cheese and Guava Swirl Ice Cream on p. 52. Guava<br />

paste is sliceable and similar to quince paste (membrillo).<br />

Guava jelly is looser and spreadable. Both are also<br />

delicious with cheese and crackers. Look for them at the<br />

supermarket or at Latin markets, or see Sources, p. 93.<br />

TIP<br />

TECHNIQUE<br />

What we mean by dice<br />

For the grain salads, pp. 54–59, we call for a variety<br />

of ingredient dice sizes. To “dice” means to cut a food<br />

into cubes, making it look like playing dice—hence the<br />

name. If the food is flat, like a bell pepper, the dice<br />

will be more of a square than a cube. Each size of dice<br />

has its own corresponding measurement, as shown<br />

below. That said, there’s no need to pull a ruler out<br />

every time. Use these dimensions as guidelines, and<br />

try to keep the dice a consistent size so the food<br />

cooks evenly.<br />

Large dice = ¾ inch<br />

Small dice = ¼ inch<br />

A peeler hulls strawberries, too<br />

When you’re prepping strawberries for the Strawberry<br />

Mojitos on p. 53, reach for your peeler. Most vegetable<br />

peelers are designed with a pointed end on the top of the<br />

blade (or on the side, in the case of Y peelers). Its main<br />

purpose is to remove the eyes from potatoes, but it’s also<br />

an effective strawberry huller. Just insert the point below<br />

the stem of the strawberry and twist.<br />

Medium dice = 13 to ½ inch<br />

Fine dice = 18 inch<br />

90 COOKFRESH SUMMER 2017


CREDITS<br />

Many of the recipes and photos in this issue have appeared previously in Fine Cooking. Listed here are the<br />

original authors and issue numbers. Unless otherwise noted, all photos are by Scott Phillips.<br />

make it tonight<br />

Summer Salad with Peas,<br />

Parmesan, Fried Egg, and Bacon,<br />

Mindy Fox, #141<br />

Zucchini, Pea, and Pesto Lasagne,<br />

Ivy Manning, #142<br />

Chicken Horiataki Salad with<br />

Tzatziki, Elizabeth Karmel, #142<br />

Crab and Corn Cakes with Lime<br />

Sour Cream, Jill Silverman<br />

Hough, #136<br />

3 ways<br />

Scallion Oil; Korean-Style Scallion<br />

Pancakes; Lemony Scallion Pilaf,<br />

Julissa Roberts, #129<br />

peaches, savory &<br />

sweet<br />

Sherry Vinegar and Rosemary<br />

Marinated Peaches; Heirloom<br />

Tomato and Peach Salad;<br />

Braised Chicken Thighs with<br />

Savory Marinated Peaches;<br />

Brown Sugar and Thyme<br />

Marinated Peaches; Overnight<br />

Oatmeal with Sweet Marinated<br />

Peaches; Sweet Marinated<br />

Peach Tart with Honey-Yogurt<br />

Mousse, WIlliam Mickelsen, #136<br />

turn up the heat<br />

Spicy Chipotle Shrimp, Avocado,<br />

and Corn Fajitas, from Big Buy<br />

Cooking by Tony Rosenfeld,<br />

photo: Maren Caruso<br />

Bourbon-Marinated Buffalo<br />

Chicken Strips with Maytag Blue<br />

Dip, Aliza Green, #49<br />

Spicy Pan-Fried Noodles with<br />

Tofu, Matthew Card, #130<br />

Crispy Fish Sandwiches with<br />

Wasabi and Ginger, Ian Knauer,<br />

#122<br />

Spicy Asian Roasted Broccoli<br />

and Snap Peas, Julie Grimes<br />

Bottcher, #70<br />

Moroccan Chicken Burgers with<br />

Feta and Carrot Slaw, Karen<br />

Tedesco, #130<br />

farm to spoon<br />

Roasted Vegetable Broth;<br />

Creamy Roasted Pepper and<br />

Tomato Soup; Summer Greens<br />

and Rice Soup; Farmers’<br />

Market Minestrone, Domenica<br />

Marchetti, #130<br />

tropical bites & sips<br />

Grilled Pork with Mojo; Hemingway<br />

Special; Cream Cheese and<br />

Guava Swirl Ice Cream, Julissa<br />

Roberts, #135, photos: Gabriella<br />

Herman<br />

Grilled Mojo-Marinated Flank<br />

Steak, Norman Van Aken, #28<br />

Island-Spiced Chicken Salad with<br />

Mango and Scallions, from Big<br />

Buy Cooking by Tony Rosenfeld,<br />

photo: Maren Caruso<br />

Chi Chi Pache; Lift-Off, Camper<br />

English, #106<br />

Rum-Glazed Pork Skewers with<br />

Coconut Rice, Laraine Perri,<br />

#129<br />

Jamaican Rice and Peas, Mark<br />

Henry, #51<br />

Spicy Papaya Salad, Julissa<br />

Roberts, #126<br />

Hawaiian Garlic Shrimp, Dabney<br />

Gough, #130<br />

Strawberry Mojito, Adeena<br />

Sussman, #123<br />

Plátanos Maduros Fritos, Julissa<br />

Roberts, #124<br />

the new summer side<br />

Spelt Salad with Cherry Tomatoes<br />

and Zucchini; Millet Salad with<br />

Avocado and Citrus; Basmati<br />

Rice Salad with Mango and<br />

Cucumber; Bulgur Salad with<br />

Carrots and Peppers; Farro<br />

Salad with Artichokes and<br />

Fennel; Brown Rice Salad with<br />

Apples and Cheddar; Barley<br />

Salad with Peas and Asparagus;<br />

Quinoa Salad with Pears and<br />

Dried Cherries; Wheat Berry<br />

Salad with Green Beans, Joanne<br />

Weir, #117<br />

a simple summertime<br />

supper<br />

Olive Oil–Fried Almonds;<br />

Herb-Marinated Skirt Steaks<br />

with Pesto-Style Salsa Verde;<br />

Sun-Ripened Tomato and<br />

Olive Salad; Romaine Hearts<br />

with Lemon Vinaigrette; Berry<br />

Buttermilk Cake with Vanilla-<br />

Scented Crème Fraîche, Maria<br />

Helm Sinskey, #72<br />

cook with honey<br />

Zucchini and Corn Pancakes with<br />

Greek Yogurt and Honey, from<br />

Fresh from the Farm by Susie<br />

Middleton, photo: Alexandra<br />

Grablewski<br />

Honey-Balsamic Pulled Pork<br />

with Avocado Relish, Bruce<br />

Weinstein, Mark Scarbrough,<br />

#134<br />

Broiled Grapefruit with Honey,<br />

Vanilla, and Cardamom, Ruth<br />

Lively, #96<br />

Mango-Honey-Mint Sorbet,<br />

Ronne Day, #117<br />

Fried Chicken with Paprika<br />

and Honey Butter, Christine<br />

Cikowski, Joshua Kulp,<br />

#136<br />

Honey-Chipotle Glazed Flank<br />

Steak, Julissa Roberts, #132<br />

Mixed Herb Salad with Honey-<br />

Lime Dressing, Ed Schoenfeld,<br />

#100<br />

Carrot Salad with Walnut Oil and<br />

Honey, Dan Barber, #85<br />

berry sweets<br />

Summer Berry Trifle, Pam<br />

Anderson, #100<br />

Blackberry Ice Cream, Bruce<br />

Weinstein, Mark Scarbrough,<br />

#136<br />

Strawberry-Yogurt Brûlée,<br />

Adeena Sussman, #123<br />

Blueberry Crostata, Bruce<br />

Weinstein, Mark Scarbrough,<br />

#136<br />

Strawberry and Kiwi Tart with<br />

Honey Cream, Jennifer Yee,<br />

#137, photo: Andre Baranowski<br />

Lemon-Buttermilk Chiffon Cake<br />

with Raspberry Sauce, Abigail<br />

Johnson Dodge, #135<br />

Some of the recipes<br />

and photos in this issue<br />

were excerpted from<br />

these books:<br />

Big Buy Cooking by Fine Cooking<br />

(The Taunton Press, 2010);<br />

photos © Maren Caruso; food<br />

stylist: Katie Christ.<br />

SuSie Middleton<br />

Fresh from the Farm by<br />

Susie Middleton (The Taunton<br />

Press, 2014); photos ©<br />

Alexandra Grablewski & Susie<br />

Middleton; food stylist: Mark<br />

Pederson.<br />

92 COOKFRESH SUMMER 2017


SOURCES<br />

carrot salad with<br />

walnut oil and<br />

honey, page 75<br />

• International Collection<br />

Walnut Oil, $5.79 for<br />

8.45 oz., Plummarket.com,<br />

855-758-6627.<br />

spicy chipotle shrimp,<br />

avocado, and corn<br />

fajitas, page 33<br />

• La Morena Chipotles in Adobo,<br />

$5.50 per 13-oz. can,<br />

Mexgrocer.com, 877-463-9476.<br />

chi chi pache, page 49<br />

• Angostura bitters, $10.99 for 4 oz., Bevmo.com,<br />

877-772-3866.<br />

• St. Elizabeth Allspice Dram, $29.99 for 750 ml,<br />

Shoppersvineyard.com, 973-916-0707.<br />

• Coco Lopez coconut cream, $3.49 for 15 oz.,<br />

Cocolopez.elsstore.com, 630-343-0240.<br />

blackberry ice cream,<br />

page 77<br />

• Cuisinart Pure Indulgence Ice<br />

Cream Machine, ICE-30BC,<br />

$89.95, Cuisinart.com,<br />

800-211-9604.<br />

TO SHOOT<br />

crispy fish sandwiches<br />

with wasabi and<br />

ginger, page 37<br />

• Wasabi powder, $4.95 per 0.88-oz.<br />

can, Thrivemarket.com.<br />

cream cheese and guava<br />

swirl ice cream, page 52<br />

From Mexgrocer.com, 877-463-9476:<br />

• Guava paste, $4.95 for 21 oz.<br />

• Guava jelly, $6.95 for 17 oz.<br />

peaches, savory &<br />

sweet, pages 24–31<br />

• McCann’s steel-cut oats,<br />

$7.44 for 28 oz., Vitacost.com,<br />

800-381-0759.<br />

• Chia seeds, $11.39 for 16 oz.,<br />

Bobsredmill.com, 800-349-2173.<br />

lemon-buttermilk<br />

chiffon cake, page 82<br />

• Nordic Ware Angel Food Cake Pan,<br />

$25, Surlatable.com,<br />

800-243-0852.<br />

FINECOOKING.COM 93


nutrition<br />

Recipe<br />

Calories<br />

(kcal)<br />

Fat Cal<br />

(kcal)<br />

Protein<br />

(g)<br />

Carb<br />

(g)<br />

Total<br />

Fat (g)<br />

Sat Fat<br />

(g)<br />

Mono<br />

Fat (g)<br />

Poly<br />

Fat (g)<br />

Chol<br />

(mg)<br />

Sodium<br />

(mg)<br />

Fiber<br />

(g)<br />

MAKE IT TONIGHT, p. 15<br />

Summer Salad w/Peas, Parmesan, Egg, and Bacon 420 330 14 9 38 7 20 8 200 470 3<br />

Zucchini, Pea, and Pesto Lasagne 380 180 16 35 20 10 5 3 50 210 4<br />

Chicken Horiataki Salad with Tzatziki 540 200 38 48 22 7 12 2.5 80 1100 5<br />

Crab and Corn Cakes with Lime Sour Cream 480 260 33 25 29 8 10 7 245 990 2<br />

3 WAYS, p. 22<br />

Scallion Oil (per 2 Tbs.) 240 240 0 0 27 2.5 4.5 19 0 0 0<br />

Korean-Style Scallion Pancakes 180 40 6 30 4.5 1 1.5 1.5 45 520 2<br />

Lemony Scallion Pilaf 320 90 8 49 10 6 2.5 1 25 400 3<br />

PEACHES, SAVORY & SWEET, p. 24<br />

Sherry Vinegar and Rosemary Marinated Peaches 150 110 1 8 12 1.5 9 1.5 0 10 1<br />

Heirloom Tomato and Peach Salad 260 170 3 20 19 2.5 13 2 0 350 4<br />

Braised Chicken Thighs w/Savory Marinated Peaches 570 350 36 14 39 10 20 6 190 630 2<br />

Brown Sugar and Thyme Marinated Peaches 90 0 1 21 0 0 0 0 0 20 1<br />

Overnight Oatmeal with Sweet Marinated Peaches 350 110 9 53 12 1.5 2.5 8 0 75 7<br />

Sweet Marinated Peach Tart with Mousse 470 250 7 48 28 18 7 1 95 160 1<br />

TURN UP THE HEAT, p. 32<br />

Spicy Chipotle Shrimp, Avocado, and Corn Fajitas 520 230 28 48 25 3.5 16 4 170 660 8<br />

Bourbon-Marinated Buffalo Chicken Strips w/Dip 420 290 19 12 32 8 15 2 90 830 2<br />

Spicy Pan-Fried Noodles with Tofu 370 140 16 47 16 1.5 8 5 0 1760 4<br />

Crispy Fish Sandwiches with Wasabi and Ginger 650 420 26 31 47 7 16 22 140 1420 2<br />

Spicy Asian Roasted Broccoli and Snap Peas 290 180 7 24 20 3 11 5 0 800 6<br />

Moroccan Chicken Burgers with Feta and Carrot Slaw 360 170 26 23 19 5 9 3 110 730 4<br />

FARM TO SPOON, p. 40<br />

Roasted Vegetable Broth (per 1 cup) 70 30 2 2 3.5 0 2.5 0 0 280 0<br />

Creamy Roasted Pepper and Tomato Soup 370 240 5 26 27 5 17 3 15 450 5<br />

Summer Greens and Rice Soup 320 110 9 37 13 2 8 1.5 0 650 4<br />

Farmers’ Market Minestrone 350 140 9 39 15 2.5 10 2 0 550 6<br />

TROPICAL BITES & SIPS, p. 44<br />

Grilled Pork with Mojo 430 260 32 10 29 7 17 3 110 1400 1<br />

Hemingway Special 230 0 0 22 0 0 0 0 0 5 0<br />

Grilled Mojo-Marinated Flank Steak 440 330 24 5 36 8 25 3 60 660 1<br />

Island-Spiced Chicken Salad w/Mango and Scallions 340 170 28 15 19 4 9 4.5 100 470 2<br />

Chi Chi Pache 300 60 1 26 6 6 0 0 0 15 0<br />

Rum-Glazed Pork Skewers with Coconut Rice 550 190 25 53 22 8 7 5 80 720 3<br />

Jamaican Rice and Peas 270 80 7 41 9 8 0 0 0 180 4<br />

Lift-Off 250 0 0 12 0 0 0 0 0 10 0<br />

Spicy Papaya Salad 90 25 1 16 2.5 0 1.5 0 0 105 3<br />

94 cookfresh summer 2017


Recipe<br />

Calories<br />

(kcal)<br />

Fat Cal<br />

(kcal)<br />

Protein<br />

(g)<br />

Carb<br />

(g)<br />

Total<br />

Fat (g)<br />

Sat Fat<br />

(g)<br />

Mono<br />

Fat (g)<br />

Poly<br />

Fat (g)<br />

Chol<br />

(mg)<br />

Sodium<br />

(mg)<br />

Fiber<br />

(g)<br />

Hawaiian Garlic Shrimp 360 190 24 10 21 7 4 8 195 290 1<br />

Cream Cheese and Guava Swirl Ice Cream 320 180 2 32 20 12 5 1 70 110 1<br />

Strawberry Mojito 210 0 1 20 0 0 0 0 0 0 2<br />

Plátanos Maduros Fritos 150 60 1 24 7 1 3 3 0 0 2<br />

THE NEW SUMMER SIDE, p. 54<br />

Spelt Salad with Cherry Tomatoes and Zucchini 300 120 8 39 14 2 9 2 0 290 6<br />

Millet Salad with Avocado and Citrus 460 150 10 70 16 2.5 10 3 0 290 5<br />

Basmati Rice Salad with Mango and Cucumber 320 130 4 45 14 2 10 2 0 290 1<br />

Bulgur Salad with Carrots and Peppers 300 160 7 29 18 4.5 11 2.5 15 460 7<br />

Farro Salad with Artichokes and Fennel 390 190 11 45 21 2.5 12 5 0 380 8<br />

Brown Rice Salad with Apples and Cheddar 420 190 11 48 21 5 13 3 15 370 6<br />

Barley Salad with Peas and Asparagus 250 110 5 31 13 2 9 1.5 0 300 7<br />

Quinoa Salad with Pears and Dried Cherries 400 180 7 52 20 3 10 6 5 310 6<br />

Wheat Berry Salad with Green Beans 340 180 8 37 20 4.5 11 4 10 490 5<br />

A SIMPLE SUMMERTIME SUPPER, p. 60<br />

Olive Oil–Fried Almonds 243 197 8 7 22 2 14 5 0 298 4<br />

Herb-Marinated Skirt Steaks w/Salsa Verde 476 263 48 2 29 9 18 2 129 433 0<br />

Pesto-Style Salsa Verde 220 210 1 2 23 3 18 2 0 94 1<br />

Sun-Ripened Tomato and Olive Salad 166 128 2 9 14 2 11 2 0 720 2<br />

Romaine Hearts with Vinaigrette 101 90 1 2 10 2 7 1 2 155 0<br />

Berry Buttermilk Cake w/Vanilla Crème Fraîche 355 138 5 48 16 10 3 1 77 295 1<br />

COOK WITH HONEY, p. 68<br />

Zucchini and Corn Pancakes w/Yogurt and Honey 160 90 3 14 10 4 5 1 30 190 1<br />

Honey-Balsamic Pulled Pork (per 1 cup pork & 1/4 of relish) 500 250 42 21 28 6 15 4.5 130 570 7<br />

Broiled Grapefruit with Honey, Vanilla & Cardamom 90 0 1 22 0 0 0 0 0 0 2<br />

Mango-Honey-Mint Sorbet 120 5 1 31 0 0 0 0 0 70 1<br />

Fried Chicken with Paprika and Honey Butter 830 450 28 69 51 20 20 8 175 1690 2<br />

Honey-Chipotle Glazed Flank Steak 210 90 24 6 10 3.5 5 .5 70 530 0<br />

Mixed Herb Salad with Honey-Lime Dressing 45 5 2 10 0 0 0 0 0 270 2<br />

Carrot Salad with Walnut Oil and Honey 290 180 5 27 20 2 3.5 14 0 210 5<br />

BERRY SWEETS, p. 76<br />

Summer Berry Trifle 310 100 5 44 11 7 3 .5 40 23 2<br />

Blackberry Ice Cream 780 460 6 80 51 33 13 2.5 160 240 3<br />

Strawberry-Yogurt Brûlée 220 100 8 22 12 9 2 0 20 40 1<br />

Blueberry Crostata 300 120 4 40 14 8 4 1 55 10 2<br />

Strawberry and Kiwi Tart with Honey Cream 450 180 7 62 20 12 5 1 120 70 4<br />

Lemon-Buttermilk Chiffon Cake w/Raspberry Sauce 300 110 5 44 12 1.5 7 3.5 80 240 3<br />

The nutritional analyses have been calculated by a registered dietitian at Nutritional Solutions in Melville, New York. When a recipe gives a choice of ingredients, the first choice is the one used. Optional ingredients<br />

with measured amounts are included; ingredients with out specific quantities are not. Analyses are per serving; when a range of ingredient amounts or servings is given, the smaller amount or portion is<br />

used. When the quantities of salt and pepper aren’t specified, the analysis is based on 1/4 tsp. salt and 1/8 tsp. pepper per serving for entrées, and 1/8 tsp. salt and 1/1 6 tsp. pepper per serving for side dishes.<br />

finecooking.com 95


RECIPE INDEX<br />

Cover Recipe<br />

Chicken Horiataki Salad<br />

with Tzatziki ................................................... 18<br />

Beef<br />

Grilled Mojo-Marinated Flank Steak ..... 46<br />

Herb-Marinated Skirt Steaks<br />

with Pesto-Style Salsa Verde ..................62<br />

Honey-Chipotle<br />

Glazed Flank Steak ......................................74<br />

Pork & Lamb<br />

Grilled Pork With Mojo .............................. 44<br />

Honey-Balsamic Pulled Pork<br />

with Avocado Relish ................................... 71<br />

Rum-Glazed Pork Skewers with<br />

Coconut Rice ............................................... 49<br />

Summer Salad with Peas,<br />

Parmesan, Fried Egg, and Bacon ........... 16<br />

Poultry<br />

Basil-Tomato Stuffed<br />

Chicken Breasts .......................................... 98<br />

Bourbon-Marinated<br />

Buffalo Chicken Strips<br />

with Maytag Blue Dip ..................................35<br />

Braised Chicken Thighs with<br />

Savory Marinated Peaches ......................29<br />

Chicken Horiataki Salad<br />

with Tzatziki ...................................................18<br />

Fried Chicken with Paprika<br />

and Honey Butter ........................................72<br />

Island-Spiced Chicken Salad<br />

with Mango and Scallions ........................ 48<br />

Moroccan Chicken Burgers with<br />

Feta and Carrot Slaw ................................. 39<br />

Fish & Shellfish<br />

Crab and Corn Cakes with Lime<br />

Sour Cream .................................................. 20<br />

Crispy Fish Sandwiches with<br />

Wasabi and Ginger ......................................37<br />

Hawaiian Garlic Shrimp ............................. 51<br />

Spicy Chipotle Shrimp, Avocado,<br />

and Corn Fajitas .......................................... 33<br />

Pasta, Grains & Nuts<br />

Olive-Oil–Fried Almonds ......................... 62<br />

Spicy Pan-Fried Noodles with Tofu ...... 36<br />

Zucchini, Pea, and Pesto Lasagne .........16<br />

Vegetarian Mains<br />

Korean-Style Scallion Pancakes .............23<br />

Spicy Pan-Fried Noodles with Tofu ...... 36<br />

p. 49<br />

Zucchini and Corn Pancakes with<br />

Greek Yogurt and Honey ......................... 68<br />

Zucchini Boats with Basil<br />

Scrambled Eggs .......................................... 98<br />

Zucchini, Pea, and Pesto Lasagne ......... 16<br />

Salads<br />

Carrot Salad with Walnut<br />

Oil and Honey ...............................................75<br />

Heirloom Tomato and Peach Salad ......26<br />

Mixed Herb Salad with<br />

Honey-Lime Dressing ................................75<br />

Romaine Hearts with Lemon<br />

Vinaigrette .....................................................65<br />

Spicy Papaya Salad ..................................... 51<br />

Summer Salad with Peas,<br />

Parmesan, Fried Egg, and Bacon ........... 16<br />

Sun-Ripened Tomato and<br />

Olive Salad .................................................... 64<br />

Soups & Stews<br />

Creamy Roasted Pepper and<br />

Tomato Soup ................................................ 41<br />

Farmers’ Market Minestrone ...................43<br />

Roasted Vegetable Broth ......................... 41<br />

Summer Greens and Rice Soup .............42<br />

Breakfast<br />

Broiled Grapefruit with Honey,<br />

Vanilla, and Cardamom ............................. 71<br />

Overnight Oatmeal with Sweet<br />

Marinated Peaches .................................... 30<br />

Side Dishes<br />

Barley Salad with Peas<br />

and Asparagus ..............................................55<br />

Basmati Rice Salad with Mango<br />

and Cucumber .............................................54<br />

Brown Rice Salad with Apples<br />

and Cheddar .................................................55<br />

Brown Sugar and Thyme<br />

Marinated Peaches .................................... 30<br />

Bulgur Salad with Carrots<br />

and Peppers ..................................................54<br />

Farro Salad with Artichokes<br />

and Fennel .....................................................55<br />

96 COOKFRESH SUMMER 2017


Mango-Honey-Mint Sorbet ...................... 72<br />

Plum Meringue Fool ....................................98<br />

Raspberry Lemonade ................................98<br />

Strawberry and Kiwi Tart with<br />

Honey Cream ............................................... 80<br />

Strawberry Mojito ........................................ 53<br />

Strawberry-Yogurt Brûlée .........................78<br />

Summer Berry Trifle ................................... 77<br />

Sweet Marinated Peach Tart<br />

with Honey-Yogurt Mousse .......................31<br />

p. 42<br />

Grilled Yellow Squash with<br />

Lime Vinaigrette ..........................................98<br />

Jamaican Rice and Peas ...........................50<br />

Lemony Scallion Pilaf ................................. 23<br />

Millet Salad with<br />

Avocado and Citrus ....................................54<br />

Plátanos Maduros Fritos ........................... 53<br />

Quinoa Salad with Pears<br />

and Dried Cherries ...................................... 55<br />

Raspberry-Goat Cheese Pizza ...............98<br />

Raspberry-Ricotta Crostini ......................98<br />

Sherry Vinegar and Rosemary<br />

Marinated Peaches .....................................26<br />

Spelt Salad with Cherry Tomatoes<br />

and Zucchini .................................................54<br />

Spicy Asian Roasted Broccoli<br />

and Snap Peas ..............................................38<br />

Spicy Papaya Salad ......................................51<br />

Squash Fritters .............................................98<br />

Summer Squash Gratin .............................98<br />

Tomato-Basil-<br />

Hummus Bruschetta .................................98<br />

Wheat Berry Salad with Green<br />

Beans and Corn ...........................................59<br />

Sauces & Toppings<br />

Avocado Relish ..............................................71<br />

Honey Butter................................................. 72<br />

Maytag Blue Dip ........................................... 35<br />

Pesto-Style Salsa Verde ...........................63<br />

Roasted Plum and<br />

Shallot Chutney ...........................................98<br />

Scallion Oil ..................................................... 22<br />

Desserts & Beverages<br />

Berry Buttermilk Cake with<br />

Vanilla-Scented Crème Fraîche .............66<br />

Blackberry Ice Cream ................................ 77<br />

Blueberry Crostata .....................................78<br />

Chi Chi Pache ................................................49<br />

Cream Cheese and Guava<br />

Swirl Ice Cream............................................. 52<br />

Grilled Plums with<br />

Vanilla Ice Cream .........................................98<br />

Hemingway Special ....................................46<br />

Lemon-Buttermilk Chiffon<br />

Cake with Raspberry Sauce .....................82<br />

Lift-Off ............................................................50<br />

p. 72<br />

FINECOOKING.COM 97


WHAT WE’RE COOKING NOW<br />

Summer’s Best<br />

Twelve ways to use four seasonal ingredients we can’t get enough of.<br />

Summer Squash<br />

Squash Fritters<br />

Grate two medium squash and let<br />

drain for 20 minutes. In a large<br />

bowl, whisk three beaten eggs with<br />

about ¾ cup flour, then mix in some<br />

crumbled feta or chèvre, the<br />

squash, and chopped fresh mint.<br />

Season with salt and pepper and<br />

thin with a little milk to a thick<br />

batter. Cook tablespoonfuls of<br />

batter in a hot oiled pan until<br />

golden brown on both sides. Serve<br />

with thick yogurt and harissa.<br />

Summer Squash Gratin<br />

Cut small zucchini or yellow<br />

summer squash into half-moons.<br />

Toss with olive oil, fresh rosemary,<br />

panko, salt, and pepper. Arrange in<br />

a baking dish and top with Grana<br />

Padano. Bake until the cheese<br />

starts to brown.<br />

Grilled Yellow Squash with<br />

Lime Vinaigrette<br />

Slice yellow squash diagonally<br />

into ½-inch-thick planks. Brush<br />

with olive oil and sprinkle with<br />

salt. Grill on both sides over high<br />

heat until well browned and just<br />

tender. Whisk together extra-virgin<br />

olive oil, lime juice, chipotle chile<br />

powder, and salt and drizzle over<br />

the squash.<br />

Plums<br />

Plum Meringue Fool<br />

Gently cook chopped plums with<br />

ground cardamom and sugar until<br />

they start to soften and collapse.<br />

Mash the plums roughly with a<br />

fork. Let cool, then swirl the plum<br />

compote into a blend of half<br />

whipped cream and half Greek<br />

yogurt. Layer in dessert glasses<br />

with crumbled meringue cookies.<br />

Roasted Plum and<br />

Shallot Chutney<br />

In a bowl, toss halved plums and<br />

shallots with olive oil, dark brown<br />

sugar, grated orange zest, red<br />

pepper flakes, and salt. Arrange<br />

cut side down in a single layer on<br />

a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet.<br />

Roast at 400°F until tender, about<br />

20 minutes. Let cool and coarsely<br />

chop. Serve with pork or duck.<br />

Grilled Plums with<br />

Vanilla Ice Cream<br />

Lightly brush halved, pitted, firmripe<br />

plums with vegetable oil and<br />

grill cut side down over mediumhigh,<br />

indirect heat until just beginning<br />

to brown. Flip the plums and<br />

continue grilling until tender.<br />

Serve over vanilla ice cream with<br />

a sprinkle of sugar and a pinch<br />

of salt.<br />

Basil<br />

Basil-Tomato Stuffed<br />

Chicken Breasts<br />

Pound boneless, skinless chicken<br />

breasts thin. Place basil leaves<br />

and thinly sliced fresh tomato on<br />

one half of each breast. Fold the<br />

other half over, and close with<br />

toothpicks. Coat in beaten egg<br />

and panko. Sauté in olive oil<br />

until golden brown, and finish<br />

cooking in the oven. Serve with<br />

lemon wedges.<br />

Zucchini Boats with Basil<br />

Scrambled Eggs<br />

Halve 2 zucchini lengthwise;<br />

scoop out and chop the flesh.<br />

Scramble 6 large eggs until barely<br />

set. Gently fold the zucchini flesh,<br />

¼ cup mascarpone, 2 Tbs. thinly<br />

sliced basil, salt, and pepper into<br />

the eggs. Spoon the egg mixture<br />

into the zucchini halves and top<br />

with shredded mozzarella. Bake<br />

in a medium-hot oven until the<br />

zucchini is crisp-tender and the<br />

mozzarella is melted and bubbly,<br />

5 to 10 minutes.<br />

Tomato-Basil-Hummus<br />

Bruschetta<br />

Toss diced tomatoes with minced<br />

garlic and shallot, lemon juice,<br />

olive oil, salt, and pepper. Chop<br />

a large handful of basil, and toss<br />

gently with the tomatoes. Grill or<br />

toast a sliced baguette. Spread<br />

with some hummus and top with<br />

the tomatoes.<br />

Raspberries<br />

Raspberry-Ricotta Crostini<br />

Lightly toast baguette slices, and<br />

top with ricotta, fresh raspberries,<br />

toasted pine nuts, and a drizzle<br />

of honey.<br />

Raspberry Lemonade<br />

Purée equal parts raspberries and<br />

water in a blender. Strain and add<br />

lemon juice and agave syrup to<br />

taste. Serve over ice with a twist<br />

of lemon.<br />

Raspberry-Goat Cheese Pizza<br />

Spread mild goat cheese on<br />

stretched pizza dough. Sprinkle<br />

with fresh, whole raspberries,<br />

chopped walnuts, and fresh rosemary<br />

leaves. Drizzle with honey,<br />

and bake until the crust is golden.<br />

98 COOKFRESH SUMMER 2017


NOW ON PBS!<br />

ALL NEW<br />

SEASON 4<br />

Moveable Feast with Fine Cooking<br />

returns for Season 4 with host<br />

Pete Evans stirring up fun. Join us<br />

for pop-up feasts across the country –<br />

new locations, new chefs and artisans,<br />

and fabulous new dishes.<br />

For showtimes, recipes,<br />

and more, go to<br />

finecooking.tv<br />

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Previous seasons available on DVD.<br />

Visit TauntonStore.com<br />

“Moveable Feast with Fine Cooking”<br />

is a production of WGBH Boston and<br />

distributed by American Public Television.<br />

SEA ! SALT<br />

© 2016 The Taunton Press

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