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Host an Easy (and Delicious) Cookout<br />
<strong>CookFresh</strong><br />
THE BEST OF FINE COOKING<br />
30+ SENSATIONAL SIDE DISHES<br />
Flavor-Packed Summer Recipes<br />
30-MINUTE<br />
Farmstand<br />
Dinners<br />
CREATE YOUR OWN<br />
Healthy<br />
Grain<br />
Salads<br />
Light,<br />
seasonal<br />
SOUPS &<br />
SALADS<br />
Just-Picked<br />
Berry<br />
Desserts<br />
COOKFRESH SUMMER 2017<br />
www.finecooking.com<br />
Chicken<br />
Horiataki Salad<br />
with Tzatziki, p. 18
JOIN OUR<br />
EXPLORE OUR RECIPES<br />
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THE BEGINNING OF EXTRAORDINARY<br />
Dijon mustard with Horseradish.<br />
Meals, Maille, Memories.<br />
maille.com
contents<br />
Cookfresh summer 2017, No. 121<br />
features<br />
24 peaches, savory &<br />
sweet<br />
Two marinades take this summer<br />
favorite fruit to new places.<br />
32 turn up the heat<br />
Serve suppers with a kick when<br />
you cook with flavor-packed,<br />
spicy ingredients.<br />
40 farm to spoon<br />
In Italy, they eat soup in summer<br />
(and so should you).<br />
44 tropical bites & sips<br />
Take backyard barbecue recipes to<br />
the bright and flavorful tropics.<br />
54 the new summer side<br />
Make-ahead and endlessly versatile,<br />
grain salad just might be the perfect<br />
potluck dish.<br />
60 a simple<br />
summertime supper<br />
Juicy grilled steak, fresh summer<br />
salads, and a homey berry buttermilk<br />
cake star in this easy outdoor menu.<br />
68 cook with honey<br />
Honey lends a distinctive<br />
sweetness to suppers, snacks,<br />
desserts, and more.<br />
76 berry sweets<br />
Make the most of fresh, ripe berries<br />
in tempting seasonal desserts.<br />
Sweet Marinated Peach<br />
Tart with Honey-Yogurt<br />
Mousse, p. 31<br />
www.finecooking.com
22<br />
85<br />
88<br />
90<br />
93<br />
84<br />
DEPARTMENTS<br />
8 Welcome<br />
10 On the Web<br />
15 Make It Tonight<br />
Fast and fresh meals, any night<br />
of the week.<br />
22 3 Ways with Scallions<br />
Versatile and affordable, these green onions<br />
add fresh flavor to recipes of all kinds.<br />
84 Test Kitchen<br />
Tips, techniques, ingredients.<br />
92 Credits<br />
93 Sources<br />
94 Nutrition<br />
96 Recipe Index<br />
98 What We’re Cooking Now<br />
Twelve ways to use four seasonal<br />
ingredients we can’t get enough of.<br />
Pp<br />
Cover photography by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day.<br />
www.finecooking.com<br />
6 COOKFRESH SUMMER 2017
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AS CLEAN AS YOUR FOOD?<br />
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finecooking.com 7
welcome<br />
<strong>CookFresh</strong><br />
the best of fine cooking<br />
Issue Editor<br />
Issue Art Director<br />
Issue Copy Editor<br />
Sarah Opdahl<br />
Brittany Carlson<br />
Diane Sinitsky<br />
Sun-Ripened<br />
Tomato and Olive<br />
Salad, p. 64<br />
Summer’s Gifts<br />
welcome summer! We’re ready for all that the season has to offer: juicy peaches;<br />
ripe, flavorful tomatoes; bright berries; and more. Whether you’re happily hauling<br />
home bags full of goodies from the farmers’ market or you’re knee-deep in zucchini<br />
from the garden, you’ve got the right magazine in hand. This special issue of Fine<br />
Cooking was developed to turn all of that lovely produce into fantastic dishes.<br />
Here, you’ll find it all: easy dinners (Moroccan Chicken Burgers with Feta<br />
and Carrot Slaw, p. 39); grilled favorites (Herb-Marinated Skirt Steaks, p. 62);<br />
backyard barbecue knockouts (Grilled Pork with Mojo, p. 44); standout desserts<br />
(Strawberry and Kiwi Tart with Honey Cream, p. 80); and everything in between.<br />
To make healthier eating even easier, we’ve provided icons to help you identify<br />
which recipes fit your eating and cooking style, from quick to vegetarian to<br />
make-ahead (see below). Now you have all the tools you’ll need to turn that warmweather<br />
produce into delicious dishes all season long.<br />
—The Fine Cooking Editors<br />
A guide to making healthy choices<br />
These icons are located throughout this issue of <strong>CookFresh</strong> to help you<br />
choose recipes that match your needs.<br />
Editorial Director<br />
Art Director<br />
Senior Editors<br />
Food Editor<br />
Senior Copy/<br />
Production Editor<br />
Staff Photographer<br />
Senior Food<br />
Editor/Stylist<br />
Food Editor/<br />
Test Kitchen Manager<br />
Art/Production<br />
Coordinator<br />
Test Kitchen Assistant<br />
Test Kitchen Intern<br />
Editors at Large<br />
Contributing Editors<br />
Senior Managing Editor,<br />
Books<br />
Kathy Kingsley<br />
Teresa Fernandes<br />
Joanne Smart<br />
Lisa Lahey<br />
Chris Hoelck<br />
Scott Phillips<br />
Ronne Day<br />
Diana Andrews<br />
Tinsley Morrison<br />
Joan Velush<br />
William Stewart<br />
Jennifer Armentrout<br />
Susie Middleton<br />
Abigail Johnson Dodge<br />
Rebecca Freedman<br />
Tony Rosenfeld<br />
Molly Stevens<br />
Jill Silverman Hough<br />
(drinks)<br />
Joanne Weir<br />
Carolyn Mandarano<br />
FineCooking.com<br />
Senior Web Producer Sarah Breckenridge<br />
Video Director Colin Russell<br />
The Best of Fine Cooking: (ISSN: 1931-8227)<br />
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8 cookfresh summer 2017
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FINE COOKING DIGITAL<br />
On the Web<br />
Make FineCooking.com your destination for seasonal summer recipes,<br />
how-tos, videos, and more.<br />
Summer<br />
GAZPACHO Recipes<br />
The soups on pp. 40–43 are bursting with summer’s<br />
best produce, but don’t forget about the<br />
original summer soup: gazpacho. Our collection<br />
includes the ultimate classic recipe, along with<br />
regional variations (white cucumber-and-almond<br />
gazpacho) and creative riffs, like a spicy-sweet<br />
watermelon gazpacho and hors d’oeuvre-size<br />
shooters. Find the recipes at FineCooking.com/<br />
gazpacho.<br />
8 Summer<br />
Sauces for<br />
Quick, Easy<br />
Meals<br />
The best summer cooking<br />
is really about NOT<br />
cooking. Days are long and<br />
spent outdoors, so when<br />
dinnertime rolls around,<br />
these simple sauces and<br />
dressings are your secret<br />
weapons. Cook big batches<br />
of grains and veggies ahead<br />
of time, grill some meat, and<br />
mix and match them with<br />
this arsenal of homemade<br />
condiments. Get the recipe<br />
collection at FineCooking<br />
.com/summer-sauces.<br />
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finecooking.com 11
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Summer’s no-fuss vibe<br />
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Naturally sweet and syrupy, figs<br />
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5 ripe heirloom tomatoes,<br />
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6 medium fresh figs, halved or<br />
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1 lb. fresh mozzarella, sliced<br />
2 Tbs. fresh basil leaves<br />
1 to 2 Tbs. balsamic glaze<br />
Overlap the tomatoes, figs, mozzarella,<br />
and basil leaves on a serving plate.<br />
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SAUVIGNON BLANC<br />
Grown in the warm and sunny Californian Central Coast, Edna<br />
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Balanced, crisp acidity with flavors that linger on the finish, this<br />
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12 COOKFRESH SUMMER 2017<br />
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Fast and fresh meals, any night of the week.<br />
Summer Salad with<br />
Peas, Parmesan, Fried<br />
Egg, and Bacon, p. 16<br />
finecooking.com 15
summer salad with<br />
peas, parmesan,<br />
fried egg, and bacon<br />
Bacon and eggs turn a green salad<br />
into a substantial, comforting, and<br />
tasty meal, while peas and tarragon<br />
contribute bright, fresh seasonal<br />
flavors. (See the photo on p. 15.)<br />
Serves 4<br />
4 oz. thick-cut bacon (4 slices), cut<br />
crosswise 1/4 inch thick<br />
3/4 oz. finely grated Grana Padano<br />
or Parmigiano-Reggiano<br />
(about 1/3 cup); more for shaving<br />
2 Tbs. red-wine vinegar<br />
Kosher salt and freshly ground<br />
black pepper<br />
6 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil<br />
2 Tbs. vegetable oil; more as needed<br />
4 large eggs<br />
8 oz. mixed baby greens or similar<br />
2 Tbs. whole fresh tarragon leaves,<br />
plus 1 Tbs. finely chopped for garnish<br />
2/3 cup frozen peas, thawed<br />
2 medium radishes, thinly sliced<br />
2 Tbs. thinly sliced fresh chives<br />
Cook the bacon in a 12-inch nonstick skillet<br />
over medium heat, stirring occasionally,<br />
until crisp, 4 to 5 minutes. Use a slotted<br />
spoon to transfer the bacon to a paper<br />
towel–lined plate, leaving any fat behind in<br />
the skillet.<br />
Meanwhile, combine the grated cheese,<br />
vinegar, and 1/4 tsp. each salt and pepper<br />
in a medium bowl. Gradually whisk in the<br />
olive oil.<br />
Put the skillet over medium-low heat<br />
and add the vegetable oil. When the oil<br />
is hot, crack the eggs into the skillet and<br />
cook, basting the whites occasionally with<br />
the fat, until the whites are set but the<br />
yolks are still runny, 2 to 3 minutes.<br />
Meanwhile, in a large bowl, toss the<br />
greens, tarragon leaves, peas, and<br />
radishes. Lightly dress the salad with some<br />
of the vinaigrette, season with a generous<br />
pinch each salt and pepper, and toss.<br />
Divide the salad among 4 serving plates.<br />
Top each salad with an egg. Drizzle<br />
1/2 Tbs. vinaigrette over each egg, and<br />
season with salt and pepper. Top with<br />
the bacon, shaved cheese, chives, and<br />
chopped tarragon. Serve the remaining<br />
vinaigrette on the side.<br />
zucchini, pea, and pesto lasagne<br />
This free-form, no-bake lasagne features fresh flavors and is much quicker to<br />
make than traditional vegetable lasagne. Serves 4<br />
Kosher salt<br />
6 dried lasagne noodles<br />
2 Tbs. unsalted butter<br />
3 Tbs. pine nuts<br />
1 large zucchini, halved lengthwise<br />
and thinly sliced crosswise<br />
11/4 cups fresh or thawed<br />
frozen peas<br />
1/3 cup thinly sliced shallot<br />
1/3 oz. Grana Padano or Parmigiano-<br />
Reggiano, finely grated (1/3 cup);<br />
more coarsely grated for serving<br />
9 oz. ricotta cheese (about 1 cup)<br />
Freshly ground black pepper<br />
1/2 cup store-bought or homemade<br />
basil pesto<br />
Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a<br />
boil. Boil the noodles according to package<br />
directions until al dente. Drain and<br />
rinse under cool water. Cut each noodle in<br />
half crosswise and set aside.<br />
Meanwhile, melt the butter in a 10-inch<br />
skillet over low heat. Add the pine nuts<br />
and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly<br />
browned, about 1 minute. With a slotted<br />
spoon, transfer the nuts to a small bowl.<br />
Increase the heat to medium, add the<br />
zucchini, peas, and shallot, and cook,<br />
stirring occasionally, until tender, about<br />
3 minutes. Add the finely grated cheese<br />
and toss gently to coat.<br />
Season the ricotta with 1/4 tsp. each<br />
salt and pepper. Place one noodle half on<br />
each of 4 plates, and spread a dollop of<br />
ricotta over each one. Divide about half of<br />
the vegetable mixture among the noodles,<br />
spreading it evenly over the cheese. Top<br />
with another noodle and repeat. Top with<br />
a third noodle, the pesto, pine nuts, and<br />
the coarsely grated cheese, and serve.<br />
16 cookfresh Summer 2017
COVER RECIPE<br />
chicken horiataki salad with tzatziki<br />
Horiataki is essentially what we outside of Greece call Greek salad but without the lettuce. The addition<br />
of garlicky grilled chicken transforms the salad into a satisfying summer meal. Tzatziki, a cool yogurt and<br />
cucumber sauce often served with gyros, is a refreshing alternative to feta. Serves 4<br />
FOR THE CHICKEN<br />
4 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves<br />
1 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest<br />
2 large cloves garlic, minced<br />
1 Tbs. chopped fresh oregano or 2 tsp.<br />
dried oregano<br />
Kosher salt and freshly ground<br />
black pepper<br />
Olive oil, for grilling<br />
1 lemon, cut into 6 wedges<br />
2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley<br />
FOR THE SALAD<br />
2 pints cherry tomatoes, halved<br />
1 English cucumber, peeled, sliced in half<br />
lengthwise, seeded, and sliced crosswise<br />
½ small red onion, very thinly sliced<br />
13 cup pitted black olives, such as<br />
Kalamatas, halved<br />
1½ Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil<br />
1 tsp. chopped fresh oregano or<br />
½ tsp. dried oregano<br />
Kosher salt and freshly ground<br />
black pepper<br />
1 cup homemade or good-quality<br />
store-bought tzatziki sauce<br />
4 pitas, toasted (optional)<br />
GRILL THE CHICKEN<br />
Prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) gas<br />
or charcoal grill fire. Meanwhile, remove the<br />
tenderloins from the chicken breasts, if necessary,<br />
and reserve for another use.<br />
Put a chicken breast half between two large<br />
pieces of plastic wrap, and pound it to an even<br />
¼-inch thickness with a meat mallet. Repeat<br />
with the other 3 breast halves.<br />
In a mortar, combine the lemon zest, garlic,<br />
oregano, 1 tsp. salt, ½ tsp. pepper, and ¼ tsp.<br />
water. Grind with a pestle to crush and combine.<br />
Rub the mixture all over the chicken.<br />
Drizzle olive oil on both sides of the<br />
chicken, patting it into the meat with your<br />
fingertips. Grill the chicken without moving<br />
it until grill marks form, about 4 minutes. Flip<br />
and grill until just cooked through (160°F),<br />
another 1 minute. Transfer to a plate, and<br />
squirt 2 lemon wedges over the chicken. Top<br />
with the parsley, and let rest.<br />
MAKE THE SALAD<br />
In a large bowl, combine the tomatoes,<br />
cucumber, onion, and olives. Toss with the<br />
olive oil and oregano, and season to taste with<br />
salt and pepper.<br />
Divide the salad among 4 plates. Slice the<br />
chicken and place on top of the salad. Dollop<br />
with some of the tzatziki sauce. Serve with<br />
the remaining lemon wedges and the pitas,<br />
if using.<br />
18 COOKFRESH SUMMER 2017
“<br />
The Everyday Baker is part culinary school,<br />
part trusted friend, and completely delicious.”<br />
–Zoë François, pastry chef and cookbook author<br />
the everyday<br />
BAKER<br />
Recipes & Techniques for Foolproof Baking<br />
Abigail Johnson Dodge<br />
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ><br />
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• Over 175 inspiring, foolproof recipes<br />
• Nearly 1,000 step-by-step and<br />
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> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ><br />
© 2015 The Taunton Press<br />
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ><br />
Early praise for Abigail Johnson Dodge and The Everyday Baker:<br />
“Everyday? Hardly! How about every minute? That’s how<br />
often we want to make the recipes from this baking pro<br />
who still makes it all too fun.”<br />
–Bruce Weinstein and Mark Scarbrough,<br />
Authors of The Great Big Pressure Cooker Book<br />
“I love to cook but don’t know how to bake. With Abby’s<br />
recipes, problem solved!”<br />
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The Everyday Baker is a hugely generous cookbook, the<br />
kind that invites you to drop everything you are doing and<br />
start baking this very minute.”<br />
–Susie Middleton, cookbook author, farmer,<br />
and editor at large for Fine Cooking<br />
Available at www.TauntonStore.com or wherever books are sold.
crab and corn cakes with lime sour cream<br />
Classic crab cakes get a subtle Tex-Mex treatment with the addition of corn<br />
and a refreshing lettuce and cilantro salad on the side. Serves 4<br />
1 lb. lump crabmeat, picked over<br />
11/3 cups panko<br />
3/4 cup corn kernels, preferably fresh<br />
Kosher salt<br />
3 large eggs, lightly beaten<br />
4 cups shredded iceberg lettuce<br />
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro<br />
1 lime<br />
1 cup sour cream<br />
1/4 cup vegetable oil<br />
Combine the crab, panko, corn, and 11/2 tsp.<br />
salt in a large bowl. Gently stir in the eggs.<br />
With damp hands, tightly shape the mixture<br />
into eight 3/4-inch-thick cakes and place them<br />
on a small cutting board or flat plate. Refrigerate<br />
for 10 minutes.<br />
Meanwhile, toss the lettuce and cilantro<br />
together and arrange on 4 plates. Finely grate<br />
the zest and squeeze the juice from the lime<br />
into a small bowl. Stir in the sour cream, and<br />
thin with a little water to make a pourable<br />
sauce. Season to taste with salt.<br />
Heat 2 Tbs. of the oil in a 12-inch nonstick<br />
skillet over medium heat. Add 4 crab cakes<br />
and cook, flipping once, until golden brown,<br />
about 8 minutes. Repeat with the remaining<br />
oil and crab cakes. Divide the crab cakes<br />
among the plates and serve with the<br />
sour cream.<br />
20 cookfresh Summer 2017
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© 2015 The Taunton Press<br />
finecooking.com 21
3 WAYS WITH...<br />
Scallions<br />
Versatile and affordable, these green onions add fresh<br />
flavor to recipes of all kinds.<br />
scallions, or green onions, are so versatile. You can use them<br />
as a color and flavor accent in pastas, salads, and stir-fries or as a<br />
garnish on a baked potato, but their fresh, oniony flavor makes them<br />
a wonderful feature ingredient, too, as the recipes here show. So grab<br />
a bag (or two), check out the tips below, and get cooking.<br />
WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Choose scallions with firm white bulbs and<br />
fresh-looking green tops. Avoid those with slimy, wilted, or browned<br />
green parts.<br />
HOW TO STORE: Wrap whole scallions in damp paper towels<br />
and store in a zip-top bag in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator,<br />
where they should keep for about a week.<br />
HOW TO PREP: Always use a sharp knife when cutting<br />
scallions to avoid bruising them. Cut off any dried-out ends<br />
from the dark green tops (usually the top ¼ inch or so), trim the<br />
root ends, and rinse just before using.<br />
scallion oil<br />
Don’t let its pale hue fool you—this infused<br />
oil is bursting with fresh scallion flavor.<br />
Yields 1½ cups<br />
6 oz. scallions (10 to 12), green parts cut<br />
crosswise into 1-inch pieces, white parts<br />
chopped and lightly smashed<br />
1½ cups grapeseed or other neutral oil<br />
In a 2-quart saucepan, combine the scallions<br />
and oil. Slowly bring to a simmer over low heat,<br />
and then simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from<br />
the heat and let cool. Strain through a fine-mesh<br />
sieve into a small bowl, pushing down on the<br />
solids to extract as much oil as possible. Transfer<br />
to an airtight container and refrigerate for up to<br />
2 weeks.<br />
12 ways to use scallion oil<br />
This versatile oil can be used as a condiment,<br />
for cooking, or even as a finishing oil.<br />
As a dipping oil for:<br />
• french fries<br />
• bread<br />
• crudités<br />
As a cooking oil for:<br />
scrambled eggs<br />
popcorn<br />
fish or seafood<br />
• croutons<br />
As a finishing<br />
oil for:<br />
chicken or steak<br />
vegetables<br />
vinaigrettes<br />
soup<br />
• pasta<br />
22 COOKFRESH SUMMER 2017
lemony scallion pilaf<br />
This simple side dish is perfect<br />
with grilled fish, chicken, or shrimp.<br />
Serves 4<br />
1½ oz. (3 Tbs.) unsalted butter<br />
12 oz. scallions (20 to 24), thinly sliced,<br />
whites kept separate from greens<br />
Kosher salt and freshly ground<br />
black pepper<br />
¼ cup dry white wine<br />
1 cup basmati rice<br />
1¾ cups lower-salt chicken broth<br />
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest<br />
2 tsp. fresh lemon juice<br />
korean-style<br />
scallion pancakes<br />
Known as pa jun in Korean (pa means scallion, and jun refers to battered,<br />
fried foods), these savory pancakes are more tender than their crispy<br />
Chinese counterparts. Paired with a spicy soy dipping sauce, they make<br />
a scrumptious snack, appetizer, or side dish. Serves 6 to 8<br />
FOR THE DIPPING SAUCE<br />
13 cup reduced-sodium soy sauce<br />
¼ cup rice vinegar<br />
1 Tbs. Asian sesame oil<br />
1 Tbs. thinly sliced scallions<br />
1 Tbs. packed dark brown sugar<br />
1 tsp. finely grated fresh ginger<br />
½ tsp. finely grated garlic<br />
½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes<br />
FOR THE PANCAKES<br />
9 oz. (2 cups) unbleached<br />
all-purpose flour<br />
2 large eggs, beaten<br />
Kosher salt<br />
6 oz. scallions (10 to 12), halved<br />
lengthwise and cut crosswise<br />
into 1-inch pieces<br />
2 tsp. vegetable oil;<br />
more as needed<br />
MAKE THE DIPPING SAUCE<br />
Mix all of the ingredients in a small bowl;<br />
set aside.<br />
MAKE THE PANCAKES<br />
Heat the oven to 200°F.<br />
Whisk the flour, eggs, 1 tsp. salt, and<br />
1½ cups water in a large bowl. Using a silicone<br />
spatula, gently fold in the scallions.<br />
Let the batter sit at room temperature<br />
for 10 minutes so that the flour can fully<br />
hydrate; the batter should be thick but<br />
pourable.<br />
Heat the vegetable oil in a 10-inch nonstick<br />
skillet over medium heat. Pour about<br />
¾ cup of the batter into the skillet, swirling<br />
the skillet and pushing the batter to the<br />
edges with the spatula. Cook until golden<br />
brown on the bottom, 3 to 4 minutes. Flip<br />
and cook until the other side is golden<br />
brown, about 2 minutes more. Transfer to<br />
a baking sheet and keep warm in the oven.<br />
Repeat with the remaining batter, adding<br />
more oil to the skillet as needed.<br />
Cut each pancake into wedges and<br />
serve with the sauce.<br />
Melt the butter in a 3- to 4-quart<br />
saucepan over medium heat. Add the<br />
scallion whites, ¼ tsp. salt, and a few<br />
grinds of pepper and cook, stirring<br />
often, until tender but not browned,<br />
about 5 minutes.<br />
Add the wine and simmer to reduce<br />
by half, about 2 minutes. Add the rice<br />
and cook, stirring often, until it begins<br />
to crackle, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the<br />
broth, lemon zest, and 1 tsp. salt; bring<br />
to a boil. Cover and turn the heat down<br />
to low. Cook until the rice is tender<br />
and the liquid is absorbed, about<br />
15 minutes.<br />
Remove from the heat and let<br />
sit, covered, for 5 minutes. Fluff the<br />
scallion greens and lemon juice into the<br />
rice with a fork and serve.<br />
FINECOOKING.COM 23
Peaches,<br />
Savory &<br />
Sweet<br />
Two marinades<br />
take this summer favorite<br />
fruit to new places.<br />
24 COOKFRESH SUMMER 2017
peaches at the peak of the season are something to get<br />
excited about. Since they have such a short season, you may<br />
want to stock up when they are at their best. Likely that would<br />
mean more peaches than you can eat for snacks, but we have<br />
the perfect solution for how to use them: Cut them up and<br />
marinate them. Marinating peaches draws out their luscious<br />
juices and allows their peachy flavor to merge with other<br />
ingredients like fresh herbs and tangy vinegar. You can also<br />
steer the marinade down a sweet or savory road, which opens<br />
up lots of options for how to serve the peaches. Sweet marinated<br />
peaches shine in breakfasts and quick desserts, while<br />
savory marinated peaches find their way into braises and<br />
salads, where the marinade pulls double duty as a vinaigrette.<br />
Another plus is that you can skip the tedious task of blanching<br />
and peeling the peaches because the marinade also softens the<br />
skins. So just make your peach marinades, kick back, and enjoy<br />
the taste of the season.<br />
Pick your marinade<br />
Whether you go sweet or savory, cut the fruit however<br />
you like and then just stir all the ingredients together. The<br />
peaches take on great flavor in as little as 20 minutes, but<br />
they can stay in the marinade for up to 48 hours. Reserve<br />
the marinade to use in the recipes.<br />
Savory, p. 26<br />
Sweet, p. 30<br />
finecooking.com 25
Savory<br />
Savory<br />
Marinated<br />
Peaches +<br />
pizza dough<br />
+ grilled sweet onions<br />
+ farmer cheese<br />
+ bacon<br />
+ fresh basil<br />
= a killer flatbread<br />
•<br />
shredded chicken<br />
+ mayo<br />
+ Dijon<br />
+ shallot<br />
= a grownup chicken salad<br />
•<br />
cherry tomatoes<br />
+ fresh lime juice<br />
+ jalapeño<br />
= a zippy salsa<br />
sherry vinegar and rosemary marinated peaches<br />
Vinegar and herbs tone down the peaches’ sweetness for savory dishes. Sherry<br />
vinegar brings complex tartness, fresh rosemary adds earthy pine notes, olive oil<br />
lends richness, and rum contributes a bit of spice. Yields 3 cups<br />
3 medium ripe peaches,<br />
pitted and sliced, diced,<br />
or cut into wedges<br />
1/₃ cup extra-virgin olive oil<br />
21/2 Tbs. spiced dark rum<br />
(optional)<br />
2 Tbs. sherry vinegar<br />
11/2<br />
tsp. finely chopped<br />
fresh rosemary<br />
Pinch of kosher salt<br />
Pinch of granulated<br />
sugar<br />
gently combine all of the<br />
ingredients in a medium bowl<br />
and let marinate at room<br />
temperature for at least<br />
20 minutes and up to<br />
24 hours. After marinating,<br />
you can refrigerate the<br />
peaches for up to 1 day.<br />
heirloom tomato and peach salad<br />
Start summer dinners on the patio with this simple salad. Or, pair it with creamy<br />
burrata and crusty bread and call it lunch. Serves 4 as a first course or side<br />
3 cups Sherry Vinegar and<br />
Rosemary Marinated<br />
Peaches (recipe above),<br />
drained, marinade<br />
reserved<br />
1 tsp. Dijon mustard<br />
4 large heirloom tomatoes<br />
(about 2 lb.), cored and<br />
sliced into 1/2-inch-thick<br />
rounds<br />
Flaky sea salt, such as<br />
Maldon, and freshly<br />
ground black pepper<br />
8 medium fresh mint<br />
leaves, torn<br />
in a small bowl, whisk<br />
together the reserved marinade<br />
and the Dijon; it’s ok if<br />
it doesn’t emulsify. Arrange<br />
the tomato slices on 4 plates<br />
or a platter, top with the<br />
peaches, and drizzle some<br />
of the vinaigrette over the<br />
top. season lightly with salt<br />
and pepper and garnish with<br />
the mint. Pass any remaining<br />
vinaigrette at the table.<br />
26 cookfresh summer 2017
28 cookfresh summer 2017
aised chicken thighs<br />
with savory marinated peaches<br />
These tender chicken thighs<br />
are dripping with savorysweet<br />
herbal flavors from the<br />
marinated peaches. Salty<br />
capers and crisp prosciutto<br />
seal the deal. Serves 4 to 6<br />
1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil;<br />
more as needed<br />
1 oz. thinly sliced prosciutto,<br />
cut crosswise into thin strips<br />
3 lb. bone-in, skin-on chicken<br />
thighs (about 8)<br />
Kosher salt and freshly<br />
ground black pepper<br />
1 medium leek, white and<br />
light green part only, thinly<br />
sliced (1 cup)<br />
3 medium cloves garlic,<br />
thinly sliced<br />
2 Tbs. all-purpose flour<br />
3 cups Sherry Vinegar and<br />
Rosemary Marinated<br />
Peaches (recipe, p. 26),<br />
drained, marinade<br />
reserved<br />
3 cups lower-salt chicken<br />
broth<br />
2 Tbs. drained capers<br />
2 Tbs. unsalted butter<br />
2 Tbs. fresh tarragon leaves,<br />
coarsely chopped<br />
Position a rack in the center of the<br />
oven and heat the oven to 350°F.<br />
Heat the oil in an 8-quart Dutch<br />
oven or other heavy-duty pot over<br />
medium heat. Add the prosciutto<br />
and cook, stirring occasionally,<br />
until crisp, about 5 minutes. With<br />
a slotted spoon, transfer to a bowl<br />
and set aside. If the pan is dry, add<br />
a little more oil.<br />
Season the chicken lightly on all<br />
sides with salt and pepper. Working<br />
in batches, brown the chicken on<br />
both sides, about 12 minutes total.<br />
Transfer to a plate.<br />
Turn the heat down to medium<br />
low. Pour off all but 1 Tbs. fat from<br />
the pot and then add the leek and<br />
garlic. Cook, stirring often, until<br />
beginning to soften, about<br />
5 minutes. Add the flour and<br />
cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add<br />
the reserved marinade and cook,<br />
scraping up any browned bits from<br />
the bottom of the pan, until the<br />
liquid thickens, about 2 minutes.<br />
Add the broth, season lightly with<br />
salt and pepper, and bring to a<br />
boil. Arrange the chicken in the<br />
pot skin side up, return to a boil,<br />
and transfer the pot to the oven<br />
to braise, uncovered, until the<br />
chicken cooks through, about<br />
25 minutes.<br />
Take the pot out of the oven.<br />
Turn the broiler on high. Transfer<br />
the chicken, skin side up, to a foillined<br />
rimmed baking sheet.<br />
Simmer the sauce in the pot<br />
over medium-high heat, stirring<br />
occasionally, until thickened and<br />
reduced by about half, about<br />
10 minutes. Lower the heat to<br />
medium and stir in the capers<br />
and peaches; cook until heated<br />
through. Stir in the butter until<br />
it melts, then stir in 1 Tbs. of the<br />
tarragon and season to taste with<br />
salt and pepper.<br />
Meanwhile, broil the chicken<br />
until the skin is crisp, about<br />
3 minutes.<br />
Return the chicken to the pot<br />
or transfer it to a large platter<br />
and spoon the sauce over it.<br />
Garnish with the prosciutto and<br />
the remaining tarragon leaves,<br />
and serve.<br />
finecooking.com 29
own sugar and<br />
thyme marinated<br />
peaches<br />
Brown sugar and white<br />
balsamic vinegar lend<br />
peaches a caramelly flavor,<br />
while a semidry wine enhances<br />
their sweet tartness. Fresh<br />
thyme adds an herbal note.<br />
Yields 3 cups<br />
Sweet<br />
3 medium ripe peaches, pitted<br />
and sliced, diced, or cut<br />
into wedges<br />
1/₃ cup packed light brown sugar<br />
1/₃ cup off-dry (sweet) white wine,<br />
preferably Gewürztraminer<br />
Pinch of kosher salt<br />
3 Tbs. white balsamic vinegar<br />
11/2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves<br />
gently combine all of the ingredients<br />
in a medium bowl and let<br />
marinate at room temperature<br />
for at least 20 minutes and up to<br />
24 hours. After marinating, you<br />
can refrigerate the peaches for<br />
up to 1 day.<br />
Sweet<br />
Marinated<br />
Peaches +<br />
buttermilk biscuits<br />
+ whipped cream<br />
+ mascarpone<br />
+ lemon zest<br />
= deluxe shortcakes<br />
•<br />
vanilla ice cream<br />
+ cream soda<br />
= a sophisticated float<br />
•<br />
bourbon<br />
+ ginger beer<br />
+ peach bitters<br />
= a spicysweet cocktail<br />
overnight oatmeal with sweet marinated peaches<br />
This overnight method is fabulous; the flavors have a chance to develop, and the<br />
oats get a softer, creamier texture. It’s the ideal backdrop for marinated peaches<br />
and crunchy toasted walnuts. Serves 4<br />
2 Tbs. whole milk<br />
2 Tbs. packed light brown sugar<br />
1 tsp. pure vanilla extract<br />
3/4 tsp. ground cinnamon<br />
¼ tsp. kosher salt<br />
1 cup steel-cut oats, preferably McCann’s<br />
3 cups Brown Sugar and Thyme Marinated<br />
Peaches (recipe above left), drained,<br />
¼ cup marinade reserved<br />
2 oz. (1/2 cup) toasted walnuts, coarsely<br />
chopped<br />
1/2 tsp. chia seeds (optional)<br />
Heavy cream (optional)<br />
combine the milk, sugar, vanilla, cinnamon,<br />
salt, and 4 cups water in a 4-quart saucepan<br />
over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve<br />
the sugar. Bring to a boil. stir in the oats,<br />
simmer for 1 minute, then remove from the<br />
heat. Let cool at room temperature until<br />
tepid, then cover and refrigerate overnight.<br />
Bring the oatmeal to a simmer over<br />
medium heat and cook, stirring occasionally,<br />
until thick and the oats are tender and<br />
chewy, about 10 minutes.<br />
off the heat, stir in the reserved marinade.<br />
Divide among 4 bowls, and top with<br />
the peaches, walnuts, and chia seeds, if<br />
using. Drizzle with heavy cream, if using,<br />
and serve.<br />
30 cookfresh summer 2017
sweet marinated peach tart with honey-yogurt mousse<br />
Perfect for a dinner party and easier<br />
to make than a peach pie, this tart<br />
marries sweet peaches and a creamy<br />
yogurt mousse in a press-in shortbread<br />
crust. If you’re short on time, you can<br />
skip the crust and serve the mousse<br />
topped with the peaches in little bowls<br />
or wineglasses. Serves 8 to 10<br />
FOR THE CRUST<br />
9 oz. (2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour<br />
7 oz. (14 Tbs.) chilled unsalted butter, cut<br />
into 1-inch pieces<br />
3 oz. (3/4 cup) confectioners’ sugar<br />
1 large egg, beaten<br />
1 Tbs. cornstarch<br />
1 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest<br />
(from 1 large lemon)<br />
1 tsp. kosher salt<br />
FOR THE MOUSSE<br />
1/8 oz. (1 tsp.) unflavored powdered gelatin<br />
3/4 cup plus 1 Tbs. heavy cream<br />
3 Tbs. honey<br />
11/2 cups plain Greek yogurt<br />
Pinch of kosher salt<br />
FOR THE TOPPING<br />
3 cups Brown Sugar and Thyme<br />
Marinated Peaches (recipe, facing<br />
page), drained, marinade reserved<br />
MAKE THE CRUST<br />
In a food processor, pulse the flour,<br />
butter, confectioners’ sugar, egg,<br />
cornstarch, lemon zest, and salt<br />
until the dough comes together in<br />
big clumps, about twenty 1-second<br />
pulses. The dough will be very soft<br />
and pliable.<br />
Transfer the dough to a 9-inch<br />
springform pan. Flour your fingertips<br />
and press the dough onto the bottom<br />
and sides of the pan in an even layer.<br />
Start by pressing the dough up the<br />
sides, which should be just under 1/4 inch<br />
thick, and reflour your fingers as necessary.<br />
Wrap the pan in plastic and refrigerate<br />
for at least 1 hour and up to 1 day.<br />
Position a rack in the lower third of the<br />
oven and heat the oven to 350°F.<br />
Prick the bottom of the crust all over with<br />
a fork. Line the crust with aluminum foil and<br />
fill with pie weights or dried beans, gently<br />
pressing them against the sides. Bake until<br />
the edges begin to turn golden, about 20 minutes.<br />
Carefully remove the weights and foil.<br />
Continue to bake the crust until golden brown<br />
and the bottom is firm and dry, 15 to 20 minutes.<br />
If the crust puffs up during baking, use<br />
the back of a spoon to gently press it down.<br />
Cool completely on a wire rack.<br />
MAKE THE MOUSSE<br />
In a small bowl, sprinkle the gelatin over 1 Tbs.<br />
cold water; let stand until the gelatin softens,<br />
about 5 minutes.<br />
Meanwhile, stir 1 Tbs. of the cream with the<br />
honey in a 2-quart saucepan over medium<br />
heat until the honey melts, about 2 minutes.<br />
Stir in the gelatin mixture and remove from<br />
the heat. Add the yogurt and salt, and whisk<br />
until smooth.<br />
In a large bowl, whisk the remaining 3/4 cup<br />
cream until soft peaks form. Gently fold<br />
the yogurt mixture into the<br />
cream.<br />
Pour the mousse into the cooled crust<br />
and smooth to the edges with a small offset<br />
spatula. Cover and refrigerate until firm, at<br />
least 4 hours and up to 2 days.<br />
TOP THE TART<br />
Simmer the reserved marinade in a 1-quart<br />
pot over medium heat until syrupy, about<br />
5 minutes; refrigerate until cold, 30 minutes<br />
and up to 1 day.<br />
When ready to serve, transfer the tart to a<br />
serving plate. Spoon the peaches and a little<br />
of the syrup over the mousse. Slice and serve<br />
drizzled with the remaining peach syrup.
Harissa<br />
Hot<br />
sauce<br />
Chipotles<br />
in adobo<br />
Sambal<br />
oelek<br />
Sriracha<br />
Wasabi<br />
Turn Up<br />
the heat<br />
Serve suppers with a kick when you cook with<br />
flavor-packed, spicy ingredients.<br />
want to crank up the flavor in your weeknight<br />
meals? Reach for a bottle of Sriracha or<br />
a jar of sambal oelek the next time you’re at<br />
the store. Spicy sauces like these bring a lot to<br />
the table. The dishes here feature pepper- and<br />
mustard-based ingredients that, when used in<br />
the right amounts, will not overwhelm with fire<br />
but give meals a flavorful bump.<br />
32 cookfresh summer 2017
spicy chipotle<br />
shrimp, avocado,<br />
and corn fajitas<br />
Arrange the fajitas and fixings<br />
on a buffet table, bar<br />
style, for casual entertaining,<br />
or serve the components on<br />
various platters at the table.<br />
Serves 4<br />
1 lb. shrimp (26 to 30 per lb.),<br />
peeled and deveined<br />
4 Tbs. olive oil<br />
1 tsp. chili powder<br />
Kosher salt and freshly<br />
ground black pepper<br />
1 large Haas avocado (about<br />
1/2 lb.), cut into 1/2-inch dice<br />
1 chipotle, minced, plus 1 Tbs.<br />
adobo sauce (from a can of<br />
chipotles in adobo)<br />
1 lime, half juiced (about<br />
1 Tbs.) and half cut into<br />
wedges<br />
1 large yellow onion, thinly<br />
sliced (about 3 cups)<br />
1 large clove garlic, minced<br />
1 cup frozen corn, thawed, or<br />
the kernels from 2 ears corn<br />
8 corn tortillas, warmed<br />
1/4 cup coarsely chopped<br />
fresh cilantro<br />
Toss the shrimp with 1 Tbs. of the<br />
oil, the chili powder, 1/4 tsp. salt,<br />
and 1/2 tsp. pepper. In a medium<br />
bowl, mash the avocado with the<br />
chipotle and adobo sauce, lime<br />
juice, and 1/4 tsp. salt.<br />
heat 11/2 Tbs. oil in a large<br />
(12-inch) skillet over mediumhigh<br />
heat until shimmering. Add<br />
the shrimp and cook, stirring, until<br />
they turn pink and become just<br />
firm to the touch, about 2 minutes.<br />
Transfer to a large plate.<br />
reduce the heat to medium,<br />
and add the remaining 11/2 Tbs.<br />
oil to the pan. Add the onion,<br />
sprinkle with 1/2 tsp. salt, and cook,<br />
stirring, until the onion softens<br />
and starts to brown, about<br />
6 minutes. Add the garlic and<br />
cook, stirring, for 30 seconds.<br />
Add the corn and shrimp, and<br />
cook, stirring, until they heat<br />
through, about 2 minutes.<br />
Let your guests help themselves<br />
by spreading the avocado<br />
on a warm tortilla and topping the<br />
spread with some of the shrimp<br />
mixture, a squeeze of lime juice,<br />
and a sprinkling of the cilantro.<br />
chipoTLeS in aDobo<br />
When you want to add a hit of hot, smoky flavor to your cooking, reach for a can of<br />
chipotle chiles in adobo. Chipotles are dried, smoked jalapeños. Adobo is a tangy, slightly<br />
sweet red sauce. Put them together in a can and they become a versatile pantry staple.<br />
You can use just the chipotles for intense smoky chile heat or just the sauce if you want a<br />
sour-sweet flavor and a slightly less fiery smoky heat. Or you can use them together, as in<br />
the recipe above.<br />
The chipotles are soft and ready to go straight from the can. They can be quite spicy,<br />
but you can temper the heat a bit by scraping out the seeds. The size of chipotles often<br />
varies, so if a recipe calls for two chipotles and you choose the biggest one, you might<br />
want to use just one. To store, transfer unused chiles and sauce to an airtight container—<br />
preferably glass, as the sauce tends to stain plastic—and refrigerate for about a month.<br />
fInecookIng.com 33
34 cookfresh summer 2017
ourbon-marinated buffalo chicken strips with maytag blue dip<br />
Instead of the traditional chicken wings, this recipe calls for juicy boneless, skinless chicken thighs. The Maytag dip can be<br />
made up to 4 days ahead, but definitely start this dish at least a day ahead of time to let the chicken marinate. Yields 2 lb.;<br />
serves 4 as a main dish or 8 to 12 as an appetizer<br />
FOR THE CHICKEN<br />
1/4 cup bourbon<br />
1/4 cup soy sauce<br />
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice<br />
2 lb. boneless, skinless chicken thighs<br />
FOR THE DIP<br />
1/4 lb. Maytag Blue, crumbled<br />
1/2 cup mayonnaise (homemade<br />
or prepared)<br />
1/4 cup sour cream<br />
2 Tbs. cider vinegar<br />
1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions<br />
1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh<br />
flat-leaf parsley<br />
1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh dill<br />
1/2 tsp. coarse salt<br />
1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper<br />
Pinch of cayenne<br />
FOR THE SAUCE<br />
1/4 cup Crystal Hot Sauce (or another brand<br />
of cayenne hot sauce such as Frank’s or<br />
Durkee but not a fiery sauce like Tabasco)<br />
4 Tbs. melted unsalted butter<br />
3/4 tsp. coarse salt<br />
1 Tbs. cornstarch mixed with 1/4 cup water<br />
FOR FINISHING THE DISH<br />
About 1 quart vegetable oil for frying<br />
1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper<br />
3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour<br />
1 seedless cucumber, unpeeled,<br />
cut into spears<br />
1 celery heart, washed and drained,<br />
cut into sticks<br />
Marinate the chicken<br />
In a large bowl, combine the bourbon, soy<br />
sauce, and lemon juice. Trim and discard any<br />
visible fat on the chicken thighs. Cut each<br />
thigh lengthwise into 5 to 6 strips. Toss the<br />
strips in the bourbon mixture. Cover and<br />
refrigerate for 24 hours.<br />
Make the dip<br />
Blend half the cheese with the mayonnaise<br />
in a food processor until smooth. Add the<br />
sour cream and cider vinegar and process<br />
until the mixture has the consistency of<br />
creamy mayonnaise. Add the scallions,<br />
parsley, and dill and process again briefly.<br />
Add the remaining cheese, process very<br />
briefly (the dip should be slightly chunky),<br />
and remove from the food processor. Add<br />
the salt, pepper, and cayenne. Wrap well and<br />
re frigerate for up to 4 days.<br />
Make the sauce<br />
In a small saucepan, whisk together the hot<br />
sauce, melted butter, salt, and cornstarch<br />
mixture. Heat while whisking constantly until<br />
the mixture comes to a boil. The sauce should<br />
be smooth and slightly thickened. Remove<br />
from the heat and keep warm.<br />
Finish the dish<br />
Heat the oven to 250°F. Pour enough oil into<br />
a wok or deep, heavy pot to reach about<br />
2 inches. Heat the oil to 365°F or until the oil<br />
shimmers and the air 2 inches above the oil<br />
feels hot.<br />
Drain the chicken well and pat dry with<br />
paper towels. Season the chicken with the<br />
1/2 tsp. pepper. Spread the flour in a wide,<br />
shallow container and dredge one-third of<br />
the thigh strips, shaking off any excess flour.<br />
Carefully put the strips one at a time in the hot<br />
oil. Fry until the strips are golden brown, about<br />
7 minutes. Remove from the oil and drain on<br />
paper towels. Repeat this process until all the<br />
chicken has been fried.<br />
Put the fried chicken in a large bowl. Toss<br />
with the warm sauce and spread in a single<br />
layer on a baking sheet. Heat in the oven for<br />
about 5 minutes so the sauce is absorbed.<br />
Serve immediately with the dip, cucumber,<br />
and celery.<br />
Hot Sauce<br />
There’s a world of hot sauce out there, but there’s nothing<br />
quite like the piquant zing of Louisiana-style sauces. Why?<br />
Louisiana hot sauces are vinegar-based, so along with a<br />
spicy kick, their acidity lends a certain brightness to rich,<br />
earthy dishes. The vinegar in the sauce is an important<br />
finishing touch.<br />
Louisiana-style hot sauces get their heat from tabasco<br />
or cayenne chiles or both, which are mashed and aged to<br />
develop the flavors. Aside from the chiles and vinegar, salt<br />
and water are often the only other ingredients. Tabasco brand<br />
is probably the most famous (and one of the hottest) of the<br />
genre, but there are many others: Frank’s RedHot, Crystal,<br />
Texas Pete, and Louisiana Hot Sauce are just a few.<br />
finecooking.com 35
spicy pan-fried noodles with tofu<br />
Seared tofu is the perfect vehicle to carry the sweet, sour, and savory flavors of<br />
this dish. Buying cooked noodles (look for them next to the tofu) saves a step; if<br />
you can’t find them, use 8 oz. uncooked and cook them according to package<br />
directions. Serves 4<br />
1/4 cup soy sauce<br />
3 Tbs. packed dark brown sugar<br />
2 Tbs. fresh lime juice, plus lime<br />
wedges for serving<br />
11/2 Tbs. Sriracha; more for serving<br />
2 large cloves garlic, minced<br />
3 Tbs. vegetable or peanut oil<br />
12 to 14 oz. extra-firm or pressed tofu,<br />
patted dry and cut into 3/4-inch cubes<br />
Kosher salt and freshly ground<br />
white pepper<br />
2 medium carrots, halved lengthwise and<br />
thinly sliced on the diagonal<br />
1 lb. cooked Asian-style noodles, such as<br />
udon or yakisoba<br />
6 medium scallions, cut into 1-inch lengths,<br />
white and dark green parts separated<br />
2 cups thinly sliced green cabbage<br />
Whisk the soy sauce, sugar, lime juice, Sriracha,<br />
garlic, and 2 Tbs. water in a small bowl;<br />
set aside.<br />
Heat 1 Tbs. of the oil in a 14-inch wok or<br />
12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high<br />
heat until shimmering hot. Add the tofu,<br />
season generously with salt and pepper, and<br />
cook, stirring occasionally, until browned on<br />
all sides, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a large<br />
bowl. Add another 1 Tbs. oil to the pan, and<br />
then add the carrots. Season with salt and<br />
pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until<br />
crisp-tender and well browned in spots, 3 to<br />
5 minutes. Transfer to the bowl with the tofu.<br />
Add the remaining 1 Tbs. oil, the cooked<br />
noodles, and the scallion whites to the skillet.<br />
Cook, stirring occasionally, until the noodles<br />
are browned in spots and the scallions are<br />
tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir the sauce and then<br />
carefully pour it over the noodles; the mixture<br />
will steam. Toss well to coat and cook, stirring,<br />
until the sauce is reduced to a sticky glaze,<br />
about 2 minutes.<br />
Return the tofu and carrots to the wok. Add<br />
the cabbage and the scallion greens and toss<br />
well. Serve with lime wedges and additional<br />
Sriracha if desired.<br />
Sriracha<br />
A Thai-style chile sauce, Sriracha<br />
is made from sun-ripened chiles,<br />
garlic, sugar, salt, and vinegar, giving<br />
it a hot-sweet-sour-salty flavor<br />
profile. Its ketchup-like, smooth,<br />
seedless consistency makes Sriracha<br />
an ideal condiment to add a<br />
jolt of heat to sandwiches, soups,<br />
and other dishes.<br />
Sriracha‘s tangy bite, though<br />
best suited to Asian foods,<br />
matches most all cuisines. The<br />
heat from Sriracha is sweeter than<br />
the vinegary tang that marks most<br />
hot sauces. Huy Fong Foods, the<br />
folks who make Sriracha, explain<br />
that this sweetness comes from<br />
sun-ripened chiles and garlic. The<br />
smooth red paste has a slightly<br />
drier consistency than ketchup. It<br />
can be squeezed out of the bottle<br />
with ease and to artful results—<br />
when you’re in a playful mood, you<br />
can decorate a dish with the sauce<br />
the way a restaurant cook might<br />
use a squeeze bottle.
crispy fish sandwiches with wasabi and ginger<br />
Wasabi, ginger, and soy sauce give this otherwise typical fried fish sandwich a bright and spicy flavor. Look for tubes of wasabi<br />
paste near other Asian ingredients in the supermarket. Serves 4<br />
1/2 cup mayonnaise<br />
1 medium lime, finely grated to<br />
yield 1/2 tsp. zest and squeezed<br />
to yield 4 tsp. juice<br />
11/2 tsp. wasabi paste; more to taste<br />
Kosher salt and freshly ground<br />
black pepper<br />
2 large eggs<br />
2 Tbs. soy sauce<br />
1 cup panko<br />
4 4- to 5-oz. boneless, skinless hake,<br />
haddock, or cod fillets (preferably<br />
1 to 11/2 inches thick)<br />
1/2 cup plus 1 Tbs. vegetable oil<br />
1 tsp. finely grated fresh ginger<br />
3 cups thinly sliced iceberg lettuce (1/4 head)<br />
4 hamburger buns, lightly toasted<br />
In a small bowl, combine the mayonnaise, lime<br />
zest, 1 tsp. of the lime juice, and the wasabi<br />
paste. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and<br />
more wasabi, if you like.<br />
In a wide, shallow bowl, lightly beat the eggs<br />
and 1 Tbs. of the soy sauce until combined.<br />
Put the panko in another wide shallow bowl.<br />
Pat the fish fillets dry and lightly season<br />
with salt. Working with one fillet at a time, dip<br />
it in the egg mixture, letting any excess drip<br />
off, then coat with the panko, pressing the<br />
breadcrumbs onto the fish. Set each breaded<br />
fillet on a plate or tray as you finish it.<br />
In a 10-inch nonstick skillet, heat 1/2 cup of<br />
the oil over medium heat until shimmering<br />
hot. Fry the fish, flipping once, until well<br />
browned and just cooked through, 5 to<br />
8 minutes total. Transfer to paper towels<br />
to drain, and sprinkle each fillet with a pinch<br />
of salt.<br />
Meanwhile, in a large bowl, stir together the<br />
remaining 1 Tbs. lime juice, 1 Tbs. soy sauce,<br />
1 Tbs. oil, the ginger, 1/4 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp.<br />
pepper. Add the lettuce and toss to coat.<br />
Spread the wasabi mayonnaise on both<br />
cut sides of the buns. Put one fish fillet on the<br />
bottom of each bun, then top with the lettuce<br />
and the bun top.<br />
Wasabi<br />
If you’re a fan of sushi and sashimi, then you’re already<br />
familiar with wasabi. For the uninitiated, wasabi is the<br />
tingling-hot, sinus-clearing pasty green condiment that<br />
accompanies those popular Japanese seafood dishes.<br />
In addition to serving it with sushi, we also like to add it<br />
to mashed potatoes and to mayonnaise, as it is here.<br />
Also known as Japanese horse radish, wasabi is a<br />
member of the mustard family. Fresh wasabi is expensive<br />
and hard to find, but you can get it in powdered or<br />
paste form at Asian markets and in the Asian section<br />
of the supermarket (or see p. 93 for an online source).<br />
Powdered wasabi is the better option: It has more of<br />
a kick than the commercial paste. Buy wasabi in the<br />
smallest quantity available because, like dried spices,<br />
its potency dissipates over time.<br />
finecooking.com 37
spicy asian roasted broccoli and snap peas<br />
If you have trouble finding fresh Thai chiles (also called bird chiles), try<br />
using the same amount of the dried version. For more on miso, see Test<br />
Kitchen, p. 85. Serves 4<br />
SaMbaL<br />
oeLeK<br />
Although chiles are native to the New World,<br />
once they crossed the Pacific, they became<br />
wildly popular in Eastern Asian cuisines.<br />
In addition to using fresh and dried chiles,<br />
East Asian cooks also rely on a variety of<br />
prepared chile pastes and sauces to add<br />
spicy heat to their dishes. Asian chile pastes<br />
and sauces (the distinction between the<br />
two having more to do with what their<br />
manufacturers choose to call them than<br />
with their consistency), like sambal oelek,<br />
are made primarily from ground chiles, oil<br />
or vinegar, and salt. They may also include<br />
other flavors, such as garlic, ginger, sugar,<br />
sesame, black beans, or soy beans. If garlic<br />
is added, the product is often identified<br />
as “chile paste with garlic” or “chile- garlic<br />
paste,” and if soybeans predominate, it’s<br />
called “hot bean paste.” Unlike most of the<br />
thin, smooth, chile-based hot sauces of<br />
the Americas, Asian chile pastes tend to be<br />
coarse and on the thick side, full of bits of<br />
ground chiles and sometimes whole seeds.<br />
Pastes from Southeast Asian countries like<br />
Indo nesia and Vietnam are typically bottled<br />
fresh, while Chinese and Korean pastes are<br />
usually fermented first.<br />
You can spice up anything with chile<br />
paste. Add it at the beginning of cooking if<br />
you want it to really permeate the dish, or at<br />
the end if you want more of a surface heat.<br />
Until you’re familiar with the heat level or the<br />
brand you’re using, start with a very small<br />
amount; you can always add more.<br />
You’ll find the broadest variety of chile<br />
pastes at an Asian grocery store. Be sure the<br />
first ingredient listed is chiles. Chile pastes<br />
aren’t usually labeled as to their heat intensity,<br />
so experiment to find a brand you like.<br />
Some pastes separate during storage, so<br />
stir them before using. Once opened, chile<br />
pastes will last indefinitely if tightly covered<br />
and refrigerated. Transfer canned paste to a<br />
jar before storing.<br />
5 cups broccoli florets (from<br />
about 2 broccoli crowns)<br />
3 cups (about 12 oz.) fresh<br />
sugar snap peas, trimmed<br />
6 to 8 red or orange fresh Thai<br />
chiles, stems trimmed<br />
3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil<br />
2 plus 1 tsp. toasted sesame oil<br />
1 tsp. kosher salt<br />
2 Tbs. fresh cilantro leaves,<br />
chopped<br />
11/2 Tbs. light-colored (white or<br />
yellow) miso (see p. 85 for<br />
more information)<br />
1 Tbs. honey<br />
2 tsp. sambal oelek (Asian<br />
chile paste)<br />
1 tsp. finely grated orange zest<br />
1 tsp. grated fresh ginger<br />
1 clove garlic, minced<br />
Position a rack in the center of the oven<br />
and heat the oven to 450°f.<br />
Put the broccoli, peas, and chiles in a<br />
large bowl; toss with 2 Tbs. of the olive<br />
oil and 2 Tbs. of the sesame oil. sprinkle<br />
with salt and toss again. Transfer the<br />
vegetables to a 10x15-inch Pyrex dish<br />
and roast, stirring once, until the peas<br />
are lightly browned and the broccoli<br />
tops are quite dark in spots, about<br />
22 minutes.<br />
meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk the<br />
remaining 1 Tbs. olive oil, 1 tsp. sesame<br />
oil, cilantro, miso, honey, sambal oelek,<br />
orange zest, ginger, and garlic. Pour the<br />
mixture over the roasted vegetables<br />
and toss to coat. remove the chiles (or<br />
leave them in for color but warn diners<br />
not to eat them). serve immediately.<br />
38 cookfresh summer 2017
moroccan chicken burgers<br />
with feta and carrot slaw<br />
These burgers come packed with aromatic flavor thanks to<br />
cumin, fresh ginger, mint, and harissa, a spicy North African<br />
condiment. Serves 4<br />
1 lb. ground chicken (preferably not<br />
100% breast meat)<br />
1/2 medium yellow onion, grated on<br />
the large holes of a box grater<br />
3 Tbs. chopped fresh mint<br />
2 Tbs. harissa<br />
11/2 tsp. ground cumin<br />
11/2 tsp. finely grated fresh ginger<br />
Kosher salt<br />
3 medium carrots, grated on<br />
the large holes of a box grater<br />
or cut into thin strips with a<br />
julienne peeler<br />
1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice;<br />
more to taste<br />
2 tsp. granulated sugar<br />
1 tsp. cumin seed<br />
Vegetable oil for grilling<br />
4 mini whole-wheat pitas, slit open<br />
11/2 oz. crumbled feta (₃ cup)<br />
Prepare a medium (350°f to 375°f)<br />
gas or charcoal grill fire.<br />
With your hands, gently mix the<br />
chicken, onion, 1 Tbs. of the mint, the<br />
harissa, ground cumin, ginger, and<br />
¾ tsp. salt in a large bowl. With wet<br />
hands, form into four 1/2-inch-thick<br />
patties.<br />
Toss the remaining 2 Tbs. mint with<br />
the carrots, lemon juice, sugar, cumin<br />
seed, and 1/4 tsp. salt. season to taste<br />
with more lemon juice and salt.<br />
oil the grill grate and grill the<br />
burgers, flipping once, until cooked<br />
through (165°f), 8 to 10 minutes total.<br />
serve the burgers in the pitas along<br />
with the feta and slaw.<br />
hariSSa<br />
Just about every area of the world has a favorite<br />
type of chile sauce. In North Africa, it’s harissa, a<br />
chile paste scented with cumin, coriander, and garlic,<br />
which is used to flavor couscous and kebabs, as<br />
well as various salads. Primarily Tunisian, harissa is<br />
also used in Moroccan, Algerian, and Libyan cooking.<br />
Ranging in heat from mild to scorching hot, harissa<br />
is used as both a condiment and an ingredient that’s<br />
stirred into couscous, tagines (stews), soups, and<br />
pastas. Look for harissa in tubes, cans, or jars at wellstocked<br />
grocery stores and specialty markets.<br />
fInecookIng.com 39
FARM<br />
TO<br />
SPOON<br />
In Italy, they eat soup in summer (and so should you).<br />
Should grilling season signal the end of soup<br />
season? Nope. Think about it: Now is when nature’s most<br />
glorious parade of vegetables is at farmers’ markets—juicy<br />
tomatoes, sweet bell peppers, green and golden squash, purple<br />
eggplant, and crisp, fresh corn among them. These beauties<br />
are good for more than just a quick turn on the grill or<br />
a spot in your salad bowl; they are prime soup vegetables, and<br />
as cooks across Italy know well, they make incredibly flavorful,<br />
fragrant summer soups. Some may question whether<br />
it’s too hot in the summer to eat soup. But that’s the key to a<br />
summer soup—serving temperature. Don’t serve them piping<br />
hot, but rather just warm or at room temperature, as the<br />
Italians do. That way, they fit perfectly with the weather, and<br />
soup season never has to end.<br />
Soup Secrets<br />
Italian cooks build flavor into their soups at every step of the cooking process. Here are a few ways you can do this, too.<br />
• Use homemade broth whenever<br />
possible for the most<br />
natural flavor.<br />
• For a meaty flavor boost, cook<br />
some diced pancetta along<br />
with the aromatics (carrot,<br />
onion, celery).<br />
• Add minced fresh, hardy herbs,<br />
like rosemary or thyme, to<br />
the aromatics for deeper<br />
herbal notes.<br />
• Freeze leftover Grana Padano<br />
or Parmi giano-Reggiano rinds<br />
and then toss one into the<br />
soup pot to infuse the broth.<br />
Bonus: Scraping the softened<br />
cheese from the rind before<br />
serving the soup is the ultimate<br />
cook’s treat.<br />
• Garnish your soup to add<br />
contrasting or complementary<br />
textures and flavors. Freshly<br />
grated Grana Padano, Parmigiano,<br />
or pecorino, toasted<br />
croutons, fried sage leaves,<br />
and/or a drizzle of really good<br />
extra-virgin olive oil are all delicious<br />
options.<br />
40 cookfresh summer 2017
BASE<br />
RECIPE<br />
roasted<br />
vegetable broth<br />
This broth will boost the vegetable flavor in the soups on the following pages.<br />
It’s pretty hands off, so put a pot on whenever you know you’ll be home for a<br />
couple of hours. If time is short, you can use store-bought broth, too. Yields about 2 quarts<br />
6 sprigs fresh flatleaf parsley<br />
6 sprigs fresh thyme<br />
6 medium carrots, cut into 1inch pieces<br />
4 medium celery ribs, cut into 1inch pieces<br />
1 large yellow onion, peeled and<br />
cut into 8 wedges<br />
1 medium red onion, peeled and<br />
cut into 8 wedges<br />
2 Tbs. extravirgin olive oil<br />
Kosher salt and freshly ground<br />
black pepper<br />
1 cup dry white wine<br />
Position a rack in the center of the oven<br />
and heat the oven to 450°f.<br />
In a large roasting pan, toss the herb<br />
sprigs, carrots, celery, and onions with the<br />
oil, 2 tsp. salt, and a few grinds of black<br />
pepper. spread into a snug single layer.<br />
roast, stirring twice, until the vegetables<br />
are tender and browned in spots, about<br />
40 minutes.<br />
Transfer everything to a 6-quart heavyduty<br />
pot, add 3 quarts cold water, and<br />
bring to a boil. Turn the heat down and<br />
simmer gently, uncovered, for 30 minutes.<br />
Add the wine and simmer until the broth<br />
is reduced by about one-third and has<br />
a full vegetable flavor, 20 to 30 minutes<br />
more. season to taste with more salt, if<br />
necessary.<br />
strain the broth through a fine-mesh<br />
sieve lined with damp cheesecloth or<br />
a coffee filter into a clean container,<br />
pressing gently on the vegetables to<br />
extract as much liquid as possible. Discard<br />
the solids.<br />
If you are not using the broth<br />
immediately, let it cool, then cover and<br />
refrigerate for up to 3 days or freeze for up<br />
to 3 months.<br />
creamy roasted pepper and tomato soup<br />
Bell peppers may be available in supermarkets all year long, but nothing beats<br />
the flavor of the sweet peppers that dominate farmers’ markets in August and<br />
September; that’s the ideal time to make this rich soup with its crispy-salty fried<br />
caper garnish. Straining the soup through a fine-mesh sieve before serving yields<br />
silky results; for a more rustic version, use a medium-mesh sieve. Serves 6<br />
3 lb. red bell peppers, cut into<br />
1inchwide strips<br />
2 lb. ripe plum tomatoes, seeded and<br />
cut into 1inch pieces<br />
3 medium carrots, cut into<br />
1inch pieces<br />
1 large yellow onion, cut into<br />
8 wedges<br />
1 large red onion, cut into 8 wedges<br />
6 large fresh basil leaves, torn<br />
4 sprigs fresh thyme<br />
1 tsp. sweet Hungarian paprika<br />
¼ tsp. cayenne; more to taste<br />
Kosher salt and freshly ground<br />
black pepper<br />
9 Tbs. extravirgin olive oil<br />
3 cups Roasted Vegetable Broth<br />
(recipe above) or storebought<br />
lowersalt vegetable or chicken broth<br />
¼ cup heavy cream<br />
1½ Tbs. redwine vinegar<br />
2 Tbs. small (nonpareil) capers,<br />
drained and patted dry<br />
Position a rack in the center of the oven and<br />
heat the oven to 450°f.<br />
In a large roasting pan, toss the peppers,<br />
tomatoes, carrots, onions, basil, and thyme<br />
with the paprika, cayenne, 1 tsp. salt, a<br />
few grinds of pepper, and 6 Tbs. of the oil.<br />
roast the vegetables, turning them every<br />
15 minutes or so, until tender and browned in<br />
spots, about 45 minutes.<br />
Discard the thyme stems and let the<br />
vegetables cool for about 15 minutes.<br />
Put one-third of the vegetables in a<br />
blender with 1 cup of the broth. Purée until<br />
very smooth, about 2 minutes. strain through<br />
a fine- or medium-mesh sieve set over a<br />
4-quart saucepan, using a silicone spatula<br />
to press all of the liquid through; discard any<br />
solids. repeat with the remaining vegetables<br />
(including any liquid from the pan) and broth<br />
in two more batches.<br />
stir in the cream and bring to a simmer<br />
over medium-low heat. stir in the vinegar and<br />
gently simmer for 5 minutes. season to taste<br />
with salt and cayenne. remove from the heat<br />
and let cool to warm or room temperature.<br />
When ready to serve, heat the remaining<br />
3 Tbs. oil in an 8-inch skillet over mediumhigh<br />
heat until shimmering hot. Add the<br />
capers and cook, stirring, until they begin to<br />
open like little flowers and become crispy and<br />
brown, about 30 seconds. Drain the capers<br />
in a small fine-mesh sieve set over a bowl.<br />
Transfer the capers to a paper towel–lined<br />
plate; reserve the oil.<br />
serve the soup drizzled with the reserved<br />
caper oil and garnished with the fried capers.<br />
fINecookING.com 41
summer greens and rice soup<br />
Lettuce in soup may seem a bit odd, but this Italian classic is delicate and ever-so-slightly<br />
sweet. Look for lettuce with good flavor and a sturdy texture—red oak or red leaf, or a mix<br />
of both, works well; mesclun mix will not do because it becomes stringy when cooked. If the<br />
chard at the market calls your name, feel free to substitute it for the spinach. Serves 6<br />
3 Tbs. extravirgin olive oil;<br />
more for serving<br />
2 medium carrots, finely chopped<br />
1 large celery rib, finely chopped<br />
1 small red onion, finely chopped<br />
1 medium clove garlic, minced<br />
1 Tbs. minced fresh flatleaf parsley<br />
1 medium Yukon Gold potato, peeled and<br />
cut into ½inch pieces<br />
Kosher salt<br />
8 oz. mature spinach, trimmed<br />
and cut into ½inchthick<br />
strips (5 cups)<br />
5 oz. red oak or red leaf lettuce, cut into<br />
½inchthick strips (5 cups)<br />
5 oz. romaine lettuce, cut into ½inchthick<br />
strips (3 cups)<br />
8 cups Roasted Vegetable Broth<br />
(recipe, p. 41) or storebought<br />
lowersalt vegetable or chicken broth<br />
¾ cup arborio rice<br />
1 2inch piece Grana Padano or Parmigiano<br />
Reggiano rind (optional)<br />
Freshly ground black pepper<br />
2 Tbs. chopped fresh basil<br />
Warm the oil in a 5-quart heavy-duty pot<br />
over medium-low heat. When it’s warm—<br />
not hot—add the carrots, celery, onion,<br />
garlic, and parsley. Cook, stirring often,<br />
until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes.<br />
Add the potato and cook, stirring<br />
often, until it has begun to soften, about<br />
5 minutes; turn the heat down if the vegetables<br />
begin to color.<br />
Season the vegetables with 1 tsp. salt,<br />
then stir in the greens by the handful—it<br />
will seem like a lot, but they will cook down.<br />
Cover the pot and cook over low heat until<br />
the greens have started to wilt, about<br />
3 minutes. Uncover and continue to cook,<br />
stirring occasionally, until the greens are<br />
completely wilted, about 3 minutes more.<br />
Turn the heat up to medium high and add<br />
the broth, rice, and cheese rind, if using.<br />
Bring the soup to a boil. Turn the heat down<br />
to maintain a simmer and cook, uncovered,<br />
until the rice is very tender and has begun to<br />
split, 20 to 25 minutes. Season to taste with<br />
salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and<br />
stir in the basil. Let cool to warm or room<br />
temperature.<br />
Serve the soup drizzled with extra-virgin<br />
olive oil.
farmers’ market minestrone<br />
The word minestrone means “big soup” in Italian, and that’s just what this is: a richly flavored,<br />
chunky vegetable-and-pasta soup. This version is in bianco, which is to say, white, or without<br />
tomato. Feel free to add a couple of diced peeled plum tomatoes, if you like. Serves 6<br />
¼ cup extravirgin olive oil<br />
3 medium celery ribs, cut into<br />
¼inch pieces<br />
2 medium carrots, cut into<br />
¼inch pieces<br />
2 medium cloves garlic, minced<br />
1 medium red onion, cut into<br />
¼inch pieces<br />
2 Tbs. minced fresh flatleaf parsley<br />
1 small eggplant, cut into<br />
½inch pieces<br />
1 large red potato, cut into<br />
½inch pieces<br />
1 medium yellow squash, cut into<br />
½inch pieces<br />
1 medium zucchini, cut into<br />
½inch pieces<br />
Kosher salt and freshly ground<br />
black pepper<br />
Kernels from 1 ear fresh corn<br />
6 to 8 cups Roasted Vegetable<br />
Broth (recipe, p. 41) or storebought<br />
lowersalt vegetable or<br />
chicken broth<br />
1 cup dried tubetti or small<br />
pasta shells<br />
½ oz. (½ cup) finely grated Grana<br />
Padano or ParmigianoReggiano;<br />
more for serving<br />
¼ cup thinly sliced fresh basil<br />
Warm the oil in a 5-quart heavy-duty<br />
pot over medium-low heat. When it’s<br />
warm—not hot—add the celery, carrots,<br />
garlic, onion, and parsley. cook, stirring<br />
occasionally, until the onion is translucent<br />
and the carrots have begun to<br />
soften, about 10 minutes.<br />
stir in the eggplant, potato, yellow<br />
squash, zucchini, ½ tsp. salt, and a<br />
few grinds of pepper. cook, stirring<br />
often (the potato tends to stick to<br />
the bottom of the pot), until the<br />
vegetables are tender but still hold<br />
their shape, 15 to 20 minutes.<br />
Add the corn and 6 cups of the<br />
broth; bring to a boil. Turn the heat<br />
down to low, partially cover, and<br />
simmer gently for 10 minutes. return<br />
to a boil and stir in the pasta. simmer,<br />
stirring once or twice, until the pasta is<br />
al dente or even a little bit more tender;<br />
cooking time will depend on the shape<br />
and brand of pasta you use. Add more<br />
broth to thin the soup, if you like.<br />
season to taste with salt and pepper.<br />
remove from the heat and stir in the<br />
cheese and basil. Let cool to warm or<br />
room temperature before serving; the<br />
soup will thicken as it cools. serve with<br />
additional grated cheese at the table.<br />
fINecookING.com 43
Tropical<br />
Take backyard barbecue recipes to the<br />
bright and flavorful tropics.<br />
Bites & Sips<br />
when the weather’s warm, it’s time to take<br />
dinner outside. This summer, add flair to the<br />
picnic table with recipes that range from Jamaican<br />
rice and beans and Cuban slow-cooked pork to<br />
Hawaiian shrimp and Mexican fried plantains.<br />
Top off the menu with a batch of tasty rum-based<br />
cocktails and a refreshing fruit-filled dessert.<br />
grilled pork with mojo (lechon asado con mojo)<br />
This is the garlicky and grand centerpiece of Cuban celebrations.<br />
The pork needs at least 8 hours to marinate in the mojo<br />
and about that long to cook, but the results—unbelievably<br />
tender meat and crisp, crackly skin—are worth the wait.<br />
Serves 10<br />
FOR THE MOJO<br />
50 peeled cloves garlic<br />
5/8 oz. kosher salt (11/2 Tbs.<br />
Diamond Crystal or<br />
1 Tbs. Morton)<br />
1 Tbs. freshly cracked<br />
black pepper<br />
1 Tbs. dried oregano<br />
1/4 cup plus 2 Tbs. fresh orange<br />
juice (from 1 medium)<br />
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice<br />
(from 1 large)<br />
2 Tbs. fresh lime juice<br />
(from 1 small)<br />
FOR THE PORK<br />
1 6- to 8-lb. bone-in, skin-on<br />
pork shoulder<br />
1 medium red onion,<br />
thinly sliced<br />
2/3 cup olive oil<br />
1/3 cup fresh lemon juice<br />
(from 11/2 lemons)<br />
3 large lemons, cut into wedges<br />
Flaky sea salt, such as Maldon<br />
MAKE THE MOJO<br />
Combine the garlic, salt, pepper,<br />
and oregano in a food processor<br />
and pulse until finely chopped.<br />
Transfer to a medium bowl and<br />
whisk in the juices. Reserve 1/2 cup<br />
of the mojo and refrigerate until<br />
ready to serve.<br />
MARINATE AND GRILL THE PORK<br />
Use a paring knife to make<br />
20 deep slits all over the pork.<br />
Using your fingers, push the<br />
remaining mojo into the slits.<br />
Wrap the pork well in plastic wrap,<br />
place skin side up on a rimmed<br />
baking sheet or platter, and<br />
refrigerate for at least 8 and up<br />
to 24 hours.<br />
Let the pork sit at room temperature<br />
for 1 hour before cooking.<br />
Meanwhile, set up a charcoal<br />
or gas grill for indirect cooking<br />
between 325°F and 350°F; if<br />
using a charcoal grill, bank the lit,<br />
ashed-over coals to one side of<br />
the grill. Cover the grill, and adjust<br />
the vents as needed to reach<br />
the temperature range. For a gas<br />
grill, cover the grill, turn off one or<br />
more of the burners, and adjust<br />
the active burner(s) to reach the<br />
temperature range.<br />
Pat the pork skin dry with<br />
paper towels. Put the pork, skin<br />
side up, on the cooler part of the<br />
grill and cook, rotating (but not<br />
flipping) every couple of hours,<br />
until the skin is crisp and an<br />
instant-read thermometer registers<br />
190°F to 200°F in the center<br />
of the pork, 6 to 8 hours.<br />
Toward the end of the pork’s<br />
cooking, combine the reserved<br />
1/2 cup mojo, the onion, olive oil,<br />
and lemon juice in a 2-quart<br />
saucepan. Cook, stirring often,<br />
over medium-low heat, until the<br />
onion softens and the flavors<br />
meld, about 8 minutes. (The<br />
mojo can sit at room temperature<br />
for a few hours.)<br />
SERVE the pork<br />
Transfer the pork to a cutting<br />
board. Remove the skin. Tent<br />
just the pork with foil and let sit<br />
for up to an hour before serving.<br />
Scrape off and discard the soft<br />
fat underneath the skin, then cut<br />
the crispy part (the crackling)<br />
into bite-size pieces. Transfer<br />
to a small platter, add a few<br />
lemon wedges, and serve the<br />
chicharrones (cracklings) as an<br />
appetizer.<br />
Meanwhile, use your hands<br />
to break the meat into chunks<br />
and transfer to a large bowl. Pour<br />
about 1/3 cup of the mojo over it<br />
and toss to coat. Transfer to a<br />
large platter along with the<br />
remaining lemon wedges.<br />
Sprinkle with the sea salt and<br />
serve, passing the remaining<br />
mojo around the table with it.<br />
44 cookfresh summer 2017
finecooking.com 45
hemingway special<br />
Created for the daiquiri-loving expat Ernest<br />
Hemingway at El Floridita in Havana, this cocktail<br />
(also called a Papa Doble) was originally made<br />
without any sugar and with twice the rum. This<br />
version offers a little sweetness, by rimming the<br />
glass with turbinado sugar. Serves 1<br />
2 Tbs. turbinado (“raw”) sugar<br />
2 oz. white rum, preferably Havana Club Añejo 3 años<br />
¾ oz. (11/2 Tbs.) fresh lime juice<br />
1/2 oz. (1 Tbs.) fresh grapefruit juice<br />
1/2 oz. (1 Tbs.) maraschino liqueur<br />
1 maraschino cherry, for garnish<br />
1 grapefruit zest curl, for garnish<br />
Wet the rim of a cocktail glass in a little water and then dip<br />
the rim into a small dish containing the sugar. Place the<br />
glass in the freezer until ready to use.<br />
Fill a cocktail shaker with ice and add the rum, lime and<br />
grapefruit juices, and maraschino liqueur. Put the lid on<br />
the shaker, making sure it has a good seal. Shake vigorously<br />
until frothy, at least 30 seconds. Strain into the prepared<br />
glass. Garnish with the cherry and zest.<br />
grilled mojo-marinated<br />
flank steak<br />
Mojos are boldly seasoned Latin American<br />
vinaigrette-type sauces. This one is good on<br />
chicken as well as on flank steak. Thick slices<br />
of grilled Bermuda onion make a tasty<br />
accompaniment. Serves 4 to 6<br />
For the mojo<br />
12 cloves garlic (or 4 Tbs. minced garlic)<br />
2 fresh habaneros or other spicy<br />
chiles, cored, seeded, and minced<br />
(wear gloves to prevent irritation)<br />
4 tsp. whole cumin seeds, toasted<br />
Kosher salt<br />
1 cup olive oil<br />
1/3 cup fresh lime juice<br />
1/3 cup fresh orange juice<br />
11/2 Tbs. sherry vinegar<br />
Freshly ground black pepper<br />
For the steak<br />
1 11/2-lb. flank steak<br />
Kosher salt and freshly<br />
ground black pepper<br />
Make the mojo<br />
Mash the raw garlic, chiles, cumin, and 1 tsp. salt in a<br />
mortar and pestle until fairly smooth. (Alternatively, use<br />
a food processor, pulsing until the ingredients are finely<br />
chopped but not puréed.) Scrape the mixture into a bowl<br />
and set aside.<br />
Heat the olive oil until fairly hot but not smoking, and<br />
pour it over the garlic-chile mixture (the oil should sizzle<br />
when it hits the cool ingredients), stir, and let stand for<br />
10 minutes. This will cook the garlic slightly. Whisk in the<br />
lime juice, orange juice, and vinegar. Season with salt and<br />
black pepper and set aside to cool completely.<br />
Put the steak in a zip-top bag or a shallow bowl and pour<br />
in 1 cup of the cooled mojo. Seal and refrigerate for at least<br />
2 hours or overnight, turning occasionally. Refrigerate the<br />
remaining 1 cup mojo.<br />
Grill and serve<br />
Heat a gas grill to medium high or prepare a medium-hot<br />
charcoal fire. When the grill is ready, remove the steak<br />
from the marinade (discard the marinade), pat dry, and<br />
season with salt and black pepper; grill for 5 to 7 minutes<br />
on one side and 3 to 4 minutes on the other for medium<br />
rare. Remove from the grill and let rest for 5 minutes.<br />
Meanwhile, warm the reserved mojo over low heat. Slice<br />
the flank steak very thinly on the bias and serve with the<br />
reserved mojo.<br />
46 cookfresh summer 2017
island-spiced chicken<br />
salad with mango<br />
and scallions<br />
Cinnamon and allspice give the chicken<br />
a little Jamaican jerk flavor, while diced<br />
mangos add to the Caribbean vibe. This<br />
recipe makes plenty; leftovers taste<br />
great in a tortilla for an easy lunch.<br />
Serves 6<br />
1/2 tsp. ground allspice<br />
1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon<br />
Heaping 1/4 tsp. chipotle powder<br />
Kosher salt and freshly ground<br />
black pepper<br />
2 lb. boneless, skinless chicken thighs<br />
(about 8), trimmed of fatty patches<br />
2 Anaheim or poblano chiles, halved,<br />
cored, and seeded<br />
6 scallions (both white and green<br />
parts), trimmed<br />
3 Tbs. canola or peanut oil<br />
2 ripe mangos (about 11/2 lb.), pitted<br />
and cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 2 cups)<br />
1 Tbs. fresh lime juice; more to taste<br />
1 head butter lettuce, for serving<br />
(optional)<br />
For a gas grill, light the front burner to medium<br />
high and the back burner(s) to medium. For<br />
a charcoal grill, light a medium-high fire with<br />
two-thirds of the coals banked to one side.<br />
Clean and oil the grill grates.<br />
In a small bowl, mix the allspice, cinnamon,<br />
and chi potle powder, 11/2 tsp. salt, and 1 tsp.<br />
pepper. Rub the mix all over the chicken.<br />
Sprinkle the chiles and scallions with 1 Tbs. oil<br />
and 1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper.<br />
Set the chicken over the hot zone of the<br />
fire and the chiles and scallions over the<br />
cooler zone. Grill until the chicken, peppers,<br />
and scallions have good grill marks, 3 to<br />
4 minutes. Continue to grill the peppers and<br />
scallions until they brown and become just<br />
tender, about another 3 minutes. Grill the<br />
chicken, flipping as needed, until it is firm to<br />
the touch and cooked through (slice into a<br />
thicker piece of the chicken with a knife to<br />
check), another 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer the<br />
chicken and vegetables to a large cutting<br />
board to cool. Coarsely chop the chicken,<br />
peppers, and scallions.<br />
In a large serving bowl, toss the mango with<br />
the chicken, peppers, and scallions. Add the<br />
lime juice and the remaining 2 Tbs. oil and toss<br />
well. Season with more lime juice, salt, and<br />
pepper if needed. Serve immediately, in bowls<br />
lined with lettuce (if using).<br />
48 cookfresh summer 2017
chi chi pache<br />
Created by Martin Cate of Smuggler’s<br />
Cove in San Francisco, this drink is reminiscent<br />
of a creamy piña colada with a<br />
hint of spice. Serves 1<br />
2 fl. oz. (4 Tbs.) vodka<br />
11/2 fl. oz. (3 Tbs.) 100% pineapple juice,<br />
not from concentrate<br />
1 fl. oz. (2 Tbs.) coconut cream,<br />
preferably Coco Lopez<br />
1 tsp. pimento dram, preferably<br />
St. Elizabeth Allspice Dram<br />
1 dash Angostura bitters<br />
1 cinnamon stick<br />
Pour the vodka, pineapple juice, coconut<br />
cream, pimento dram, and bitters into an<br />
18- to 20-oz. cocktail shaker filled with ice.<br />
Shake lightly and strain into an 8- to 11-oz. Collins<br />
glass filled with moreice. With a nutmeg<br />
grater, grate a little of the cinnamon stick over<br />
the drink. Garnish with the cinnamon stick.<br />
rum-glazed pork skewers<br />
with coconut rice<br />
A Caribbean-accented spice rub and glaze boost the flavor of<br />
quick-cooking pork tenderloin. Rice cooked with coconut milk adds<br />
to the tropical feel of the dish. Serves 4<br />
3 Tbs. unsalted butter<br />
1 Tbs. minced fresh ginger<br />
1 cup jasmine rice<br />
¾ cup well-shaken unsweetened<br />
coconut milk<br />
Kosher salt<br />
1/3 cup dark rum<br />
3 Tbs. packed dark brown sugar<br />
2 medium limes, finely grated to<br />
yield 1 tsp. zest and squeezed to<br />
yield 1/4 cup juice<br />
2 Tbs. vegetable oil; more<br />
as needed<br />
1 tsp. ground allspice<br />
1/8 tsp. ground cayenne<br />
Freshly ground black pepper<br />
1 1- to 11/4-lb. pork tenderloin, cut<br />
into 1-inch cubes<br />
1 medium red bell pepper, cut into<br />
1-inch squares<br />
1 red onion, cut into 1-inch pieces<br />
Lime wedges for serving<br />
(optional)<br />
Melt 1 Tbs. of the butter in a 2-quart<br />
saucepan over medium heat. Add<br />
the ginger and cook, stirring, until<br />
fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the<br />
rice and stir until well coated. Add<br />
the coconut milk, 11/2 cups water, and<br />
¾ tsp. salt; bring to a simmer. Reduce<br />
the heat to low, cover, and cook<br />
until the liquid is absorbed, about<br />
15 minutes. Fluff with a fork, cover,<br />
and set aside.<br />
Meanwhile, combine the rum,<br />
brown sugar, 2 Tbs. of the lime juice,<br />
and the remaining 2 Tbs. butter in a<br />
1-quart saucepan. Bring to a simmer<br />
over medium heat and cook until<br />
syrupy, about 5 minutes. Stir in 1/8 tsp.<br />
salt and remove from the heat.<br />
In a medium bowl, combine the<br />
remaining 2 Tbs. lime juice with<br />
the oil, allspice, cayenne, 11/2 tsp.<br />
salt, and 1/2 tsp. black pepper. Add<br />
the pork and toss to coat. Thread<br />
the pork, bell pepper, and onions<br />
onto four 12-inch metal skewers,<br />
alternating the meat and vegetables.<br />
Prepare a medium-high (400°F)<br />
gas or charcoal grill fire or heat a<br />
large grill pan over medium-high<br />
heat. Oil the grate or pan. Grill the<br />
skewers until seared on all sides,<br />
about 4 minutes total. Brush the<br />
skewers with the glaze and grill,<br />
turning occasionally, until the pork<br />
is browned on the outside but<br />
still slightly pink in the center, 2 to<br />
4 minutes more.<br />
Add the zest to the rice and<br />
fluff. Brush the skewers with any<br />
additional glaze and serve with the<br />
rice and lime wedges, if you like.<br />
finecooking.com 49
jamaican rice and peas<br />
This is really a rice and beans dish, but in Jamaica,<br />
beans are called peas. Serves 8 to 10<br />
2 cloves garlic, smashed<br />
1 1/2-inch piece ginger, unpeeled, crushed<br />
with a mallet or the side of a knife<br />
10 whole allspice berries<br />
5 oz. (¾ cup) dried red kidney beans,<br />
picked over and rinsed<br />
1 can (about 14 oz.) coconut milk<br />
11/2 tsp. kosher salt<br />
1 tsp. cracked black peppercorns<br />
2 sprigs fresh thyme<br />
1 scallion, root trimmed<br />
2 cups raw long-grain rice<br />
1 fresh Scotch bonnet chile or habanero<br />
Tie the garlic, ginger, and allspice berries in a<br />
small cheesecloth pouch. In a 3-quart ovenproof<br />
pot, combine the pouch, beans, coconut<br />
milk, and 3 cups water. Bring to a boil, reduce to<br />
a simmer, and cook until the beans are soft,<br />
11/4 to 2 hours. If necessary, add more water<br />
during cooking to keep the beans covered.<br />
Heat the oven to 350°F. Add the salt,<br />
pepper, thyme, and scallion to the beans. Add<br />
the rice and enough water to cover the rice by<br />
about 1 inch (about 2 cups). Bring to a boil and<br />
add the whole chile; don't break, crack, or cut<br />
the chile.<br />
Cover and bake until the liquid is absorbed<br />
and the rice is tender, about 25 minutes.<br />
Remove the chile, thyme sprigs, scallion, and<br />
ginger-garlic pouch before serving.<br />
lift-off<br />
Made with falernum, a syrup<br />
spiced with ginger and clove,<br />
this drink has a remarkably<br />
flavorful boost. Serves 1<br />
11/2 fl. oz. (3 Tbs.) dark Jamaican<br />
rum, preferably Appleton<br />
Estate Extra<br />
¾ fl oz. (11/2 Tbs.) 151-proof rum,<br />
preferably Lemon Hart<br />
Demerara<br />
1/2 fl. oz. (1 Tbs.) fresh lime juice<br />
(save the juiced lime skin<br />
for garnish)<br />
1/2 fl. oz. (1 Tbs.) fresh orange juice<br />
1/2 fl. oz. (1 Tbs.) cinnamon syrup,<br />
preferably Trader Tiki’s<br />
1/4 fl. oz. (1/2 Tbs.) falernum,<br />
preferably Fee Brothers<br />
1 dash Angostura bitters<br />
Combine the rums, lime and orange<br />
juices, cinnamon syrup, falernum,<br />
and bitters in a 12-oz. glass with 1 cup<br />
of crushed ice.<br />
50 cookfresh summer 2017
spicy papaya salad<br />
This savory fruit salad is great with chicken, fish, or roast pork.<br />
The optional allspice is a nod to its Jamaican inspiration.<br />
Serves 6<br />
1 medium (3- to 4-lb.)<br />
ripe papaya<br />
1/2 small red onion, very thinly<br />
sliced (¾ cup)<br />
1/4 cup coarsely chopped<br />
fresh cilantro<br />
2 Tbs. fresh lime juice<br />
1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil<br />
1 tsp. freshly grated ginger<br />
1/2 to 1 tsp. minced fresh Thai<br />
bird or habanero chile<br />
1/8 tsp. ground allspice<br />
(optional)<br />
1/2 tsp. kosher salt<br />
Cut the papaya in half lengthwise.<br />
Using a spoon, scoop out and<br />
discard the seeds. Cut each half<br />
lengthwise into ¾-inch strips.<br />
Using a sharp paring knife, peel<br />
the strips, removing the skin as<br />
well as all the firm, lighter-colored<br />
flesh next to it. Cut the fruit crosswise<br />
into ¾-inch chunks and put<br />
in a large bowl.<br />
Add the remaining ingredients<br />
and toss to combine. Let sit for<br />
10 minutes at room temperature<br />
to meld the flavors, and serve.<br />
hawaiian garlic shrimp<br />
Inspired by the garlic shrimp served from<br />
food trucks along Oahu’s North Shore, this<br />
buttery shrimp is classically paired with “two<br />
scoops rice,” as they say there. Serves 4<br />
31/2 oz. (¾ cup) all-purpose flour<br />
11/2 tsp. sweet paprika<br />
Kosher salt<br />
1 lb. extra-jumbo shrimp (16 to 20 per lb.),<br />
peeled, deveined, and patted dry<br />
3 Tbs. grapeseed or canola oil<br />
8 large cloves garlic, coarsely chopped<br />
(about 1/4 cup)<br />
1/2 cup sake or dry white wine<br />
11/2 oz. (3 Tbs.) cold unsalted butter,<br />
cut into 3 pieces<br />
1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro<br />
1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice<br />
In a shallow bowl, combine the flour, paprika, and<br />
11/2 tsp. salt. Lightly dredge the shrimp in the mixture,<br />
shaking off the excess; set aside.<br />
Heat a heavy-duty 12-inch skillet over mediumlow<br />
heat. Add the oil, garlic, and a pinch of salt.<br />
Cook, stirring, until the garlic is tender, about<br />
2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove and<br />
reserve the garlic, leaving the oil in the pan.<br />
Turn the heat up to medium high and add the<br />
shrimp in a single layer. Cook undisturbed for<br />
2 minutes, then flip and cook until nearly opaque<br />
in the center, 1 to 2 minutes more. Add the sake<br />
and 1/2 tsp. salt and cook, flipping the shrimp once,<br />
until the liquid is reduced by half, about 3 minutes.<br />
Add the butter and the reserved garlic, and cook,<br />
swirling the pan, until the sauce is emulsified.<br />
Remove from the heat, add the cilantro and lemon<br />
juice, and toss to combine. Season to taste with<br />
salt and serve.<br />
finecooking.com 51
cream cheese and guava swirl ice cream<br />
Guava and cream cheese is a classic<br />
Cuban combination. Guava’s pearstrawberry<br />
personality pairs so well with<br />
the tangy cheese that it’s easy to see<br />
why. Here, the cream cheese is used to<br />
make a rich ice cream that gets swirled<br />
with guava purée for a dessert few can<br />
resist. Serves 10<br />
8 oz. cream cheese, softened<br />
¾ cup granulated sugar<br />
1 cup cold sour cream<br />
1 cup cold heavy cream<br />
2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice<br />
1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract<br />
Pinch of kosher salt<br />
6 oz. (about 1/2 cup) guava paste,<br />
cut into 1/2-inch slices, or guava jelly,<br />
preferably Goya brand (see p. 93)<br />
Cones for serving, if you like<br />
Beat the cream cheese with an electric<br />
mixer on medium speed until smooth, about<br />
2 minutes. Add the sugar 1/4 cup at a time,<br />
beating well after each addition. Add the sour<br />
cream, heavy cream, lemon juice, vanilla, and<br />
salt and beat just until smooth. Cover with<br />
plastic wrap and refrigerate until very cold,<br />
about 1 hour.<br />
Meanwhile, cook the guava paste or jelly<br />
and 1/2 cup water in an 8-inch skillet over<br />
medium-low heat, mashing with a fork or<br />
potato masher, until mostly melted with<br />
some smaller chunks, about 6 minutes.<br />
Transfer to a bowl and chill in the refrigerator<br />
until cooled but still pourable, about 1 hour.<br />
(If it does solidify, reheat and rechill.)<br />
Whisk the cream cheese mixture to<br />
loosen it, then freeze in an ice cream maker<br />
according to the manufacturer’s directions<br />
until slightly thicker than soft-serve ice<br />
cream, about 15 minutes. Transfer to a<br />
freezer storage container. Using a wide<br />
spatula, gently fold in the guava to create<br />
ribbons throughout. Freeze until ready<br />
to serve.<br />
52 cookfresh summer 2017
strawberry mojito<br />
A mojito is traditionally made with white rum, muddled mint and lime juice,<br />
and seltzer. Strawberries make this cocktail both sweeter and more tart—a<br />
nice match for bold amber rum or more subtle white rum. Serves 4<br />
11 oz. strawberries, hulled (2¾ cups)<br />
1/3 cup fresh lime juice<br />
1/4 cup granulated sugar<br />
10 large fresh mint leaves<br />
1 cup white or amber rum<br />
1 cup seltzer<br />
Mint sprigs, lime wedges, or fresh<br />
strawberries, to garnish<br />
and crush with a muddler or wooden<br />
spoon until the sugar is dissolved, about<br />
1 minute. Add the rum and stir gently.<br />
Fill 4 rocks glasses three-quarters full<br />
with ice, divide the mojito among them,<br />
and top each with about 1/4 cup seltzer.<br />
Garnish with mint sprigs, lime wedges, or<br />
strawberries.<br />
In a medium pitcher, combine the strawberries,<br />
lime juice, sugar, and mint leaves<br />
plátanos maduros fritos<br />
Sliced ripe plantains retain a sweet,<br />
creamy center and become caramelized<br />
around the edges when fried. This<br />
tasty side dish makes a good accompaniment<br />
to rice and beans, roasted pork,<br />
or both. Serves 6 to 8<br />
Vegetable or canola oil<br />
4 very ripe, dark brown plantains (2 lb.),<br />
ends removed, peeled, and sliced 1/2 inch<br />
thick on a sharp diagonal<br />
Fill a 12-inch heavy-duty skillet with 1/4 inch of<br />
oil (about 11/2 cups) and heat over medium<br />
heat until the tip of a plantain slice dipped in<br />
the oil sizzles vigorously.<br />
Working in batches of about 12, slide<br />
the plantain slices in one at a time, making<br />
sure they’re not touching. Fry, flipping once<br />
with tongs or a fork, until golden brown on<br />
both sides, 4 to 6 minutes total. Transfer<br />
to a paper towel–lined plate. Repeat with<br />
the remaining plantains, reheating the oil<br />
as needed between batches. Serve hot.<br />
finecooking.com 53
Spelt Salad with Cherry Tomatoes and Zucchini<br />
Dressing: red-wine vinegar<br />
Add-ins: cherry tomatoes, zucchini, scallions, basil, oregano<br />
Millet Salad with Avocado and Citrus<br />
Dressing: grapefruit juice, white-wine vinegar, honey<br />
Add-ins: avocados, oranges, grapefruit, red onion, mint<br />
The New<br />
Summer Side<br />
Make-ahead and endlessly versatile, grain salad just might be the perfect potluck dish.<br />
Basmati Rice Salad with Mango and Cucumber<br />
Dressing: rice vinegar, sesame oil, ginger<br />
Add-ins: mango, cucumbers, scallions, cilantro<br />
Bulgur Salad with Carrots and Peppers<br />
Dressing: lemon juice, tahini<br />
Add-ins: carrots, red bell peppers, cucumbers, feta, parsley, dill<br />
54 cookfresh summer 2017
Farro Salad with Artichokes and Fennel<br />
Dressing: red-wine vinegar, lemon zest, black olives<br />
Add-ins: artichokes, fennel, radicchio, cannellini beans, pine nuts, basil<br />
Brown Rice Salad with Apples and Cheddar<br />
Dressing: cider vinegar<br />
Add-ins: apples, grapes, celery, lentils, Cheddar, almonds, parsley<br />
say you’re going to a summer potluck,<br />
picnic, or barbecue. What do you bring? One sure-toplease<br />
answer is a grain salad. Not only can it be made<br />
completely ahead, but it also holds up beautifully and<br />
tastes even better the next day. Plus, it’s easy to customize<br />
because the flavor combinations are virtually endless;<br />
grains are like a blank canvas, so they go well with<br />
just about any ingredient. And best of all, the method<br />
couldn’t be simpler.<br />
To start, cook your grain of choice (find out how on<br />
p. 56). You can choose a familiar one, like rice or barley,<br />
or try something more unusual, like farro or spelt. Next,<br />
whisk together a vinaigrette, which is easy to vary with<br />
your choice of vinegar, citrus juice, or aromatics. Finally,<br />
prep your favorite add-in ingredients. Fresh vegetables<br />
or fruits and herbs are essential, but you can also experiment<br />
with cheeses, dried fruits, beans, and nuts. Toss it<br />
all together, and you’ve got a salad that’s delicious and<br />
healthful—an ideal contribution to any summer meal.<br />
Barley Salad with Peas and Asparagus<br />
Dressing: lemon juice, lemon zest<br />
Add-ins: English peas, sugar snap peas, asparagus, dill, mint<br />
Quinoa Salad with Pears and Dried Cherries<br />
Dressing: Champagne vinegar, honey<br />
Add-ins: pears, dried cherries, goat cheese, walnuts, tarragon
cooking without recipes<br />
summer grain salad<br />
If you can, make your salad in advance—even up to a day before serving—to give the flavors time to meld. Take the salad out<br />
of the refrigerator 30 to 45 minutes before serving so that it’s not ice cold. It’s best just slightly chilled or at room temperature.<br />
Taste and adjust the seasoning before serving to be sure the salad is flavorful and bright. Serves 8 to 10<br />
step 1<br />
cook the grains<br />
The cooking method will vary, depending on the grain you choose. For farro,<br />
rice, quinoa, barley, or millet, you boil the grain until tender, while wheat<br />
berries and spelt need soaking before cooking. For bulgur, just pour boiling<br />
water over the grain and let it sit until the water is absorbed. (See below<br />
for details.)<br />
Grain of choice<br />
Kosher salt<br />
1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil<br />
If using wheat berries or spelt, soak them<br />
for 10 to 18 hours in a bowl of cold water<br />
and drain before cooking.<br />
If using bulgur, pour 31/2 cups boiling<br />
water over the bulgur in a medium bowl,<br />
stir, and let sit until the water is absorbed<br />
and the bulgur is tender, 20 to 25 minutes<br />
(do not cook further).<br />
For all other grains, rinse under cold<br />
water and drain before cooking.<br />
Bring 7 cups of water to a boil in a<br />
4-quart pot over high heat. Add ¾ tsp.<br />
salt. Add the grain, reduce the heat to<br />
a simmer, and cook uncovered, stirring<br />
occasionally and adding more boiling<br />
water as necessary to keep the grain<br />
covered, until tender (see below for<br />
cooking times).<br />
Drain and rinse the grain with cold<br />
water to stop the cooking. Transfer the<br />
grain to a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet,<br />
drizzle with the oil, and toss lightly to<br />
coat. Spread the grain on the baking<br />
sheet and cool completely at room<br />
temperature or in the refrigerator.<br />
Grains<br />
Choose one (quantities yield 6 cups cooked)<br />
Pearled barley<br />
13/4 cups; cook 30 to<br />
45 minutes<br />
Wheat berries<br />
21/4 cups; soak; cook 1 to<br />
11/2 hours<br />
Basmati rice<br />
21/2 cups; cook 10 to<br />
15 minutes<br />
Semi-pearled farro<br />
3 cups; cook 30 to<br />
35 minutes<br />
Brown rice<br />
21/2 cups; cook 20 to<br />
25 minutes<br />
Spelt<br />
3 cups; soak; cook<br />
45 to 60 minutes<br />
After cooking the grains,<br />
spread them on a large baking<br />
sheet and toss them with oil<br />
to keep them from sticking<br />
together.<br />
Quinoa<br />
2 cups; cook 15 to<br />
20 minutes<br />
Medium-grind bulgur<br />
21/4 cups<br />
Millet<br />
13/4 cups; cook 15 to<br />
20 minutes<br />
56 cookfresh summer 2017
step 2<br />
make a vinaigrette<br />
The vinaigrette should have an<br />
assertive flavor that doesn’t get lost<br />
when mixed with the grains, so once<br />
you’ve made it, taste and adjust the<br />
seasoning with salt and more vinegar<br />
or citrus juice.<br />
1/3 cup vinegar or citrus juice of choice<br />
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil<br />
Aromatics and flavor boosters<br />
of choice<br />
Salt and freshly ground black pepper<br />
Put the vinegar and/or citrus juice in a<br />
small bowl and gradually whisk in the oil.<br />
Whisk in the aromatics and/or flavor<br />
boosters (if using). Taste and season with<br />
salt, pepper, and additional vinegar, citrus<br />
juice, or oil as needed.<br />
Vinegars and Citrus Juice<br />
Choose one or two (1/3 cup total)<br />
Aromatics and Flavor Boosters (optional)<br />
Choose one or two<br />
Red-wine vinegar<br />
Balsamic vinegar<br />
Black or green olives,<br />
pitted and chopped, 1/2 cup<br />
Honey<br />
2 to 3 tsp.<br />
Asian sesame oil<br />
1 Tbs.<br />
Champagne vinegar<br />
White-wine vinegar<br />
Roasted walnut or other<br />
roasted nut oil<br />
1 to 2 Tbs.<br />
Tahini<br />
2 to 3 Tbs.<br />
Soy sauce<br />
1 to 2 Tbs.<br />
Plain rice vinegar<br />
Sherry vinegar<br />
Capers or chopped<br />
caper berries<br />
up to 1/4 cup<br />
Jalapeño,<br />
minced, up to 1 whole<br />
Orange, lemon, lime,<br />
or grapefruit zest,<br />
finely grated, 1 to 2 tsp.<br />
Cider vinegar<br />
Lemon, lime, or grapefruit<br />
juice<br />
Mustard<br />
up to 1 Tbs.<br />
Anchovies,<br />
minced, 2 to 3<br />
Fresh ginger,<br />
finely grated, up to 2 Tbs.<br />
Whisking in small<br />
amounts of boldly<br />
flavored add-ins,<br />
like roasted walnut<br />
oil, boosts the vinaigrette’s<br />
flavor.
cooking without recipes<br />
STEP 3<br />
choose and prep your add-ins<br />
Vegetables or fruit (or both) and herbs are a must in these grain salads. Pair flavors that<br />
sound good to you, making sure to include a variety of textures and colors to give your salad<br />
interest. Then feel free to add optional dried fruit, cheese, nuts and seeds, or beans.<br />
Fresh Vegetables and Fruit<br />
choose up to four (2 to 3 cups total)<br />
Peaches, nectarines<br />
or mango,<br />
peeled, pitted, and<br />
cut into medium dice<br />
Avocado,<br />
pitted, peeled, and cut into<br />
medium dice<br />
Seedless grapes,<br />
halved<br />
Oil-packed<br />
artichoke hearts,<br />
cut into 1/2-inch wedges<br />
Apples or pears,<br />
cored and cut into medium<br />
dice or thin slices<br />
Radicchio,<br />
shredded<br />
Golden beets,<br />
roasted until tender, peeled,<br />
cut into medium dice or<br />
1/4-inch-thick rounds if small<br />
Asparagus,<br />
steamed or grilled until<br />
crisp-tender, cut into<br />
1-inch pieces<br />
Fennel,<br />
trimmed and cut into<br />
1/2-inch pieces<br />
Broccoli or cauliflower,<br />
cut into 1-inch florets,<br />
steamed until<br />
crisp-tender<br />
Carrots,<br />
cut on the diagonal into<br />
1/4-inch-thick slices,<br />
steamed until crisp-tender<br />
Brussels sprouts,<br />
quartered, steamed until<br />
crisp-tender<br />
Celery,<br />
cut on the diagonal into<br />
1/4-inch-thick slices<br />
Corn kernels,<br />
blanched if fresh,<br />
thawed if frozen<br />
Cucumbers,<br />
peeled, seeded, and cut<br />
into medium dice<br />
Grapefruit or orange<br />
segments,<br />
cut into pieces if large<br />
Green beans,<br />
cut into 1-inch pieces,<br />
steamed until crisp-tender<br />
Red onion,<br />
cut into small dice<br />
Scallions,<br />
thinly sliced diagonally<br />
Cherry tomatoes,<br />
halved<br />
English peas,<br />
blanched if fresh,<br />
thawed if frozen<br />
Red, green, or yellow<br />
bell peppers,<br />
cut into medium dice<br />
Sugar snap peas,<br />
halved on the diagonal,<br />
steamed until crisp-tender<br />
Radishes,<br />
halved and<br />
thinly sliced<br />
Summer squash or zucchini,<br />
cut into medium dice or<br />
1/4-inch-thick half-rounds<br />
Optional<br />
Add-Ins<br />
choose one to three<br />
Dried fruit<br />
(cranberries, raisins,<br />
chopped apricots or cherries,<br />
thinly sliced figs, etc.),<br />
up to 1/2 cup total<br />
Cheese<br />
(crumbled feta, blue,<br />
or goat cheese, grated<br />
Grana Padano, diced Cheddar,<br />
etc.), up to 1 cup total<br />
Toasted nuts and seeds<br />
(pine nuts, pumpkin seeds,<br />
chopped walnuts or<br />
almonds, etc.),<br />
up to 3/4 cup total<br />
Cooked beans<br />
(chickpeas, cannellini<br />
beans, lentils, kidney<br />
beans, black beans, etc.),<br />
up to 1 cup total<br />
58 cookfresh summer 2017
Fresh Herbs<br />
Choose one to three (up to 1/4 cup total)<br />
step 4<br />
dress and season<br />
Be sure to add enough vinaigrette when tossing your salad.<br />
An underdressed grain salad will be dry and short on flavor.<br />
Put the cooked and cooled grains in a large serving bowl and toss to break<br />
up any clumps. Add the add-ins and 1/2 cup vinaigrette and toss. Taste and<br />
season as needed with more vinaigrette, salt, and pepper. Serve or refrigerate<br />
for up to 1 day (let sit at room temperature so it’s not refrigeratorcold<br />
and season with more vinaigrette, salt, and pepper before serving).<br />
Chives,<br />
thinly sliced<br />
Dill,<br />
chopped<br />
Wheat Berry Salad with Green Beans and Corn<br />
Dressing: sherry vinegar, roasted walnut oil<br />
Add-ins: green beans, corn, golden beets, chives, blue cheese<br />
Flat-leaf parsley,<br />
chopped<br />
Marjoram,<br />
chopped, up to 1 Tbs.<br />
Basil,<br />
chopped<br />
Savory,<br />
chopped<br />
Oregano,<br />
chopped, up to 1 Tbs.<br />
Mint,<br />
chopped<br />
Cilantro,<br />
leaves and stems,<br />
chopped<br />
Tarragon,<br />
chopped,<br />
up to 1 Tbs.<br />
If you make your<br />
salad ahead, reserve<br />
some of the dressing<br />
so you can use it to<br />
fine-tune the salad’s<br />
flavor before serving.<br />
finecooking.com 59
a simple<br />
summertime<br />
supper<br />
Juicy grilled steak, fresh summer salads, and a homey<br />
berry buttermilk cake star in this easy outdoor menu.<br />
this summer, entertaining will be a breeze<br />
when you can count on this graceful and<br />
tempting meal. The menu relies on quality<br />
and fresh ingredients and can largely be<br />
made ahead.<br />
The meal starts with a no-fuss hors<br />
d’oeuvre of richly flavored olive oil–fried<br />
almonds. They can be made days in advance<br />
and store extremely well.<br />
You’ll light the grill for the main course,<br />
a juicy, flavor-packed (and extremely quickcooking)<br />
skirt steak. A simple marinade of<br />
fresh herbs and olive oil bring this rustic cut<br />
to life. Top the steaks with a zesty salsa verde.<br />
The steaks will be served alongside a fresh<br />
tomato and olive salad and a very simple<br />
green salad of romaine leaves with a bright<br />
lemon vinaigrette and cheese.<br />
The berry butter milk cake for dessert is<br />
a dream and actually tastes best baked a<br />
day in advance. The vanilla-scented crème<br />
fraîche lends the perfect contrast to the<br />
moist, berry-sweetened cake—though the<br />
cake is great without the crème fraîche, too.<br />
It’s the perfect ending to a simply delicious<br />
summertime meal.<br />
60 cookfresh summer 2017
menu<br />
Serves 6<br />
Olive Oil–Fried<br />
Almonds<br />
Herb-Marinated Skirt<br />
Steaks with Pesto-<br />
Style Salsa Verde<br />
Sun-Ripened Tomato<br />
and Olive Salad<br />
Romaine Hearts with<br />
Lemon Vinaigrette<br />
Berry Buttermilk Cake<br />
with Vanilla-Scented<br />
Crème Fraîche<br />
finecooking.com 61
olive oil–fried almonds<br />
The almonds and herbs are crisp, salty, and<br />
sure to whet your appetite. Canned cocktail<br />
nuts don’t hold a candle to these. Yields 2 cups<br />
2 cups blanched almonds<br />
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil<br />
8 large fresh sage leaves<br />
2 Tbs. fresh rosemary leaves<br />
1 Tbs. fresh thyme leaves<br />
1 tsp. sea salt<br />
Set a metal strainer over a large heatproof bowl to<br />
quickly drain the almonds at the end of cooking. Put<br />
the almonds and olive oil in a 3- or 4-quart saucepan<br />
with a lid (the nuts and oil should fill no more than<br />
one-third of the pot). Set the pot over medium heat,<br />
stirring almost constantly until the almonds are lightly<br />
golden, 3 to 10 minutes, depending on your stove<br />
and pot. Toss in the sage, rosemary, and thyme simultaneously<br />
and cover the pot immediately with the lid<br />
to prevent the oil from spattering. Remove the pot<br />
from the heat. The herbs will make a popping sound<br />
as they cook.<br />
After the popping dies down, remove the lid and<br />
immediately pour the almonds into the strainer.<br />
Spread the drained almonds on a rimmed baking<br />
sheet and toss with the salt. When they’re thoroughly<br />
cooled, store them in an airtight plastic container at<br />
room temperature.<br />
herb-marinated skirt steaks<br />
For the best flavor and tender ness, cook these steaks to medium<br />
rare or just barely medium. Thinner skirt steaks will cook more<br />
quickly. If you can’t grill these steaks, sear-roast them; instructions<br />
are included for both methods. Serves 6 to 8<br />
4 lb. skirt steaks (3 or 4 steaks)<br />
12 cloves garlic<br />
4 5-inch sprigs fresh rosemary<br />
16 sprigs fresh thyme<br />
1 Tbs. freshly cracked<br />
black pepper<br />
extra-virgin olive oil<br />
sea salt<br />
pesto-Style Salsa Verde<br />
(recipe, facing page)<br />
Trim the steaks of excess fat and<br />
cut into pieces that are of relatively<br />
even thickness and of manageable<br />
size. Smash the garlic cloves with<br />
the flat part of a heavy knife and<br />
then peel the cloves. Crush and<br />
tear the rosemary sprigs with your<br />
hands to release their perfume. In a<br />
large bowl, combine the steaks with<br />
the herbs, garlic, pepper, and 6 Tbs.<br />
olive oil. Toss to coat well. Cover<br />
and refrigerate for 1 to 2 days.<br />
to grill the steaks<br />
Take the steaks out of the refrigerator<br />
30 minutes before grilling and<br />
brush off the herb sprigs and garlic.<br />
Prepare a medium-hot gas or<br />
charcoal grill fire. Season the<br />
steaks with salt. Oil the grill and<br />
then grill the steaks for 2 to 3 minutes<br />
on each side for medium rare<br />
(thicker steaks will be medium<br />
rare after 3 to 5 minutes per side).<br />
Let rest for 10 minutes on a clean<br />
62 cookfresh summer 2017
cutting board before slicing thinly<br />
across the grain. Serve with the<br />
salsa verde.<br />
to sear-roast the steaks<br />
Heat the oven to 400°F. Put a<br />
rack in a rimmed baking sheet<br />
or roasting pan. Let the steaks<br />
sit at room temperature for<br />
30 minutes. Brush off the herb<br />
sprigs and garlic and season the<br />
steaks with salt. Heat a 12-inch<br />
sauté pan over high heat until<br />
very hot. Add a small amount of<br />
olive oil and as many pieces of<br />
steak as will fit without crowding<br />
(and use a splatter screen if you<br />
have one). Sear until the first side<br />
is well browned, 2 to 3 minutes.<br />
Flip and sear the other side until<br />
well browned, 2 to 3 minutes.<br />
(Reduce the heat to medium high<br />
if the pan is too hot and smoky.)<br />
Transfer the steaks to the rack on<br />
the baking sheet and continue<br />
searing the remaining steaks<br />
in batches.<br />
When all the steaks are seared,<br />
roast them in the oven until done<br />
to your liking, 5 to 10 minutes. Let<br />
the steaks rest for 10 minutes<br />
before slicing thinly across the<br />
grain. Serve with the salsa verde.<br />
pesto-style<br />
salsa verde<br />
This smooth herb sauce is<br />
more like a pesto than a traditional<br />
salsa verde. It’s delicious<br />
with anything grilled:<br />
fish, shellfish, chicken, pork,<br />
beef, and even vegetables.<br />
Red chile flakes are included<br />
for heat; it’s rounded out with<br />
freshly ground black pepper.<br />
Yields 1 cup<br />
1/4 cup blanched almonds<br />
kosher salt<br />
1 cup packed fresh flat-leaf<br />
parsley leaves<br />
1/2 cup packed fresh basil leaves<br />
1/2 cup packed fresh cilantro<br />
leaves<br />
2 medium cloves garlic,<br />
coarsely chopped<br />
1/4 tsp. dried red chile flakes<br />
Freshly ground black pepper<br />
3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil<br />
1 Tbs. white-wine vinegar<br />
Heat the oven to 400°F. Spread<br />
the almonds in a pie pan and<br />
toast the almonds in the oven<br />
until lightly golden, about 8 minutes.<br />
Transfer to a plate and<br />
let cool.<br />
Bring a large pot of water to a<br />
boil and salt the water heavily (it<br />
should taste like sea water). Add<br />
the parsley and basil leaves to<br />
the pot and blanch for 1 minute.<br />
Drain the leaves and immediately<br />
transfer them to a colander<br />
under cold running water or to an<br />
ice bath. When the leaves have<br />
cooled, squeeze them dry with<br />
your hands.<br />
Put the toasted almonds, the<br />
blanched parsley and basil, the<br />
cilantro, garlic, chile flakes, 1/2 tsp.<br />
salt, and a few grinds of pepper in<br />
a blender or food pro cessor. With<br />
the machine on, gradually pour<br />
the olive oil into the feed tube<br />
and process until the mixture<br />
becomes a thick purée. The salsa<br />
verde may be made to this point<br />
a day ahead and refrigerated.<br />
Return the salsa verde to<br />
room temperature, if chilled,<br />
and stir in the vinegar just before<br />
serving to prevent discoloration.<br />
finecooking.com 63
timeline<br />
UP TO ONE<br />
WEEK AHEAD<br />
• Make the almonds.<br />
• Make the crumb topping<br />
for the cake.<br />
UP TO TWO<br />
DAYS AHEAD<br />
• Marinate the skirt steaks.<br />
• Slice the olives for the tomato<br />
and olive salad.<br />
• Toast the nuts for the<br />
salsa verde.<br />
ONE DAY AHEAD<br />
• Make the lemon vinaigrette.<br />
• Wash the romaine.<br />
• Bake the cake.<br />
TWO HOURS<br />
BEFORE SERVING<br />
• Cut the tomatoes, assemble<br />
the tomato and olive<br />
salad, and keep at room<br />
temperature.<br />
• Make the salsa verde and<br />
keep at room temperature.<br />
ONE HOUR BEFORE<br />
SERVING<br />
• Bring the lemon vinaigrette to<br />
room temperature.<br />
• Whip the crème fraîche.<br />
25 TO 30 MINUTES<br />
BEFORE SERVING<br />
• Grill the steaks.<br />
• Open the wine.<br />
A FEW MINUTES<br />
BEFORE SERVING<br />
• Toss the romaine with<br />
the vinaigrette.<br />
sun-ripened tomato and olive salad<br />
Capture the flavor of ripe, just-picked tomatoes at their peak with this salad. If your<br />
tomatoes are very sweet and need more acid, adjust the flavor by adding another<br />
tablespoon of sherry vinegar. serves 6<br />
1 cup pitted niçoise or kalamata olives<br />
2 lb. heirloom tomatoes (about 6),<br />
assorted colors and sizes<br />
1 medium shallot, minced<br />
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper<br />
1 tbs. sherry vinegar<br />
1 tbs. coarsely chopped fresh<br />
flat-leaf parsley<br />
3 tbs. extra-virgin olive oil<br />
slice the olives into quarters. core the tomatoes<br />
and slice them into large bite-size<br />
wedges or large cubes. put the olives, tomatoes,<br />
and shallot in a large bowl and season<br />
with salt and pepper to taste. add the sherry<br />
vinegar and parsley. season again with salt<br />
and pepper to taste, then add the olive oil<br />
and toss. (The salad may be prepared up to<br />
2 hours ahead, covered, and left at room temperature.<br />
Toss again before serving.)<br />
Variation<br />
substitute 2 Tbs. torn basil or a mix of<br />
chopped fresh herbs for the parsley.<br />
64 cookfresh summer 2017
omaine hearts with lemon vinaigrette<br />
The tangy lemon vinaigrette in this simple salad contrasts with the cool<br />
juiciness of the lettuce and the nutty saltiness of the shaved cheese. serves 6<br />
1 medium shallot, minced<br />
3 tbs. fresh lemon juice<br />
1/4 tsp. granulated sugar<br />
sea salt<br />
3 small hearts of romaine<br />
or 3 heads of baby<br />
romaine<br />
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil<br />
Freshly ground black<br />
pepper<br />
1/2 cup shaved grana padano<br />
or parmigiano-reggiano<br />
in a medium bowl, combine<br />
the shallot, lemon juice, sugar,<br />
and 1/2 tsp. salt. stir to dissolve<br />
the sugar and salt, then let the<br />
mixture sit for 15 minutes.<br />
meanwhile, cut off the root<br />
end of the romaine so that<br />
the leaves fall loose. Wash the<br />
leaves, spin them dry, and put<br />
them in a large bowl.<br />
slowly whisk the olive oil<br />
into the lemon juice mixture<br />
(you should have about<br />
1/2 cup vinaigrette). season<br />
with salt, if necessary, and<br />
a few grinds of pepper.<br />
(This vinaigrette can be<br />
made ahead; just whisk to<br />
recombine it before using.<br />
if you make it more than<br />
2 hours ahead, cover,<br />
refrigerate, and bring it<br />
to room temperature<br />
before using.)<br />
Toss the romaine with<br />
enough vinaigrette to lightly<br />
coat. season the salad with<br />
salt and pepper to taste.<br />
arrange the leaves on a<br />
large platter and sprinkle<br />
with the shaved cheese.<br />
shopping list<br />
MEAT, EGGS & POULTRY<br />
• 4 lb. skirt steaks<br />
• 3 large eggs<br />
FRESH PRODUCE<br />
• 2 lb. heirloom tomatoes, assorted<br />
colors and sizes<br />
• 2 medium shallots<br />
• 1 to 2 lemons<br />
• 3 small hearts of romaine or<br />
3 heads of baby romaine<br />
• 2 cups fresh blueberries,<br />
raspberries, or a mix<br />
• 1 large bunch fresh thyme<br />
• 2 large bunches fresh flat-leaf<br />
parsley (1 cup packed leaves and<br />
1 Tbs. chopped)<br />
• 1 large bunch fresh basil<br />
• 1 large bunch fresh cilantro<br />
• 1 small bunch fresh rosemary<br />
• 1 small bunch fresh sage<br />
OTHER GROCERIES<br />
• 1 package blanched almonds<br />
(enough for 2¼ cups)<br />
• 1 container sea salt<br />
• 1 bottle sherry vinegar (1 Tbs.)<br />
• 1 cup pitted Nicoise or<br />
Kalamata olives<br />
• 1 block Grana Padano or Parmigiano-<br />
Reggiano (need ½ cup shaved)<br />
• 1 carton buttermilk<br />
• 1 lb. (2 cups) crème fraîche<br />
PANTRY STAPLES<br />
• Kosher salt and black pepper<br />
• 2₃ cups extra-virgin olive oil<br />
• 1 Tbs. white-wine vinegar<br />
• 2 heads garlic<br />
• ¼ tsp. dried red chile flakes<br />
• About 4 cups unbleached<br />
all-purpose flour<br />
• About 1½ cups granulated sugar<br />
• ₃ cup light brown sugar<br />
• 1 cup (about 16 Tbs.) unsalted butter<br />
• 4 tsp. baking powder<br />
• 1 tsp. baking soda<br />
• 2 tsp. vanilla extract<br />
finecooking.com 65
erry buttermilk cake with<br />
vanilla-scented crème fraîche<br />
Any leftovers make a great breakfast treat. Serves 12 to 16<br />
For the crumb topping<br />
21/4 oz. (1/2 cup) unbleached<br />
all-purpose flour<br />
1/3 cup firmly packed light brown sugar<br />
1/4 tsp. kosher salt<br />
2 oz. (1/4 cup) unsalted butter, chilled<br />
For the cake<br />
2 cups fresh blueberries, raspberries,<br />
or a mix<br />
131/2 oz. (3 cups) unbleached all-purpose<br />
flour; more for the pan and for<br />
the berries<br />
4 tsp. baking powder<br />
1 tsp. baking soda<br />
3/4 tsp. kosher salt<br />
6 oz. (3/4 cup) unsalted butter,<br />
softened at room temperature;<br />
more for the pan<br />
11/2 cups granulated sugar<br />
3 large eggs<br />
2 tsp. pure vanilla extract<br />
11/2 cups buttermilk<br />
For the vanilla crÈme fraîche<br />
1 lb. (2 cups) crème fraîche<br />
1 tsp. pure vanilla extract<br />
1 Tbs. granulated sugar<br />
Make the crumb topping<br />
Mix the flour, brown sugar, and salt in<br />
a medium bowl. Cut the butter into<br />
chunks and add to the dry mixture.<br />
Rub the flour and butter between your<br />
fingers until the mixture just comes<br />
together and has a nice crumbly texture.<br />
(This topping can be made ahead<br />
and stored, tightly covered, in the refrigerator<br />
for up to a week.)<br />
Make the cake<br />
Rinse the berries well in a colander<br />
under running water and spread on<br />
paper towels. Let the berries air-dry for<br />
at least 15 minutes. Meanwhile, position<br />
a rack in the center of the oven and heat<br />
the oven to 350°F. Generously butter<br />
and flour a 12-cup bundt pan. In a<br />
medium bowl, mix the flour, baking<br />
powder, baking soda, and salt.<br />
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted<br />
with a paddle attachment or with a<br />
handheld electric mixer, whip the butter<br />
and sugar together on medium-high<br />
speed until light and fluffy, about<br />
3 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time,<br />
beating well for 15 seconds after each<br />
addi tion. Scrape the bowl, add the<br />
vanilla, and continue whipping until the<br />
mixture is light and fluffy, 1 to 2 minutes.<br />
On low speed, add the dry ingredients<br />
one-third at a time, alternating with the<br />
buttermilk 1/2 cup at a time. After the last<br />
addition of buttermilk, scrape the bowl,<br />
increase the speed to medium, and<br />
beat for about 15 seconds to mix the<br />
batter fully.<br />
Transfer the berries to a medium<br />
bowl and toss gently with 2 tsp. flour.<br />
Gently fold the berries into the cake<br />
batter with a rubber spatula to avoid<br />
crushing the berries too much. Scrape<br />
the batter into the prepared pan with<br />
the rubber spatula, level the batter, and<br />
sprinkle with the crumb topping.<br />
Bake until a toothpick or wooden<br />
skewer comes out clean when inserted<br />
into the middle of the cake, 45 to<br />
55 minutes. Let the cake rest for<br />
10 min utes before turning it out onto a<br />
rack. Flip the cake back over so that the<br />
crumb topping is upright. Let cool completely<br />
and wrap tightly. Store at room<br />
temperature overnight before slicing.<br />
Make the vanilla crème fraîche<br />
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with<br />
a whisk attachment or with a handheld<br />
electric mixer, whip the crème fraîche,<br />
vanilla extract, and sugar until soft<br />
peaks form, about 2 minutes. Cover<br />
and refrigerate until ready to use.<br />
To serve<br />
Slice the cake and serve each slice with<br />
a dollop of the crème fraîche.<br />
For the best flavor, make both<br />
this deliciously moist bundt<br />
cake and its crème fraîche<br />
topping one day in advance.<br />
66 cookfresh summer 2017
finecooking.com 67
COOK WITH<br />
HONEY<br />
Honey lends a distinctive sweetness to suppers,<br />
snacks, desserts, and more.<br />
No. 1: Drizzle on pancakes<br />
zucchini and corn pancakes with greek yogurt and honey<br />
Crispy and golden around the edges, fluffy and chock-full of veggies on the inside, these savory pancakes are summer-veggie<br />
comfort fare. Serve them with a dollop of Greek yogurt and a drizzle of honey. The batter will hold if you want to make it a bit<br />
ahead and cook to order. Yields 12<br />
3 Tbs. unsalted butter,<br />
plus more for frying<br />
1 Tbs. olive oil, plus more<br />
for frying<br />
1½ cups small-diced zucchini or<br />
pattypan squash (1 mediumsmall<br />
zucchini, or about 7 oz.)<br />
Kosher salt<br />
11/4 cups fresh corn kernels<br />
(from 2 to 3 ears)<br />
½ cup sliced fresh scallions<br />
(white and light green parts)<br />
½ to 1 tsp. minced fresh<br />
serrano peppers<br />
Freshly ground black pepper<br />
2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf<br />
parsley<br />
2 Tbs. sliced fresh chives<br />
½ cup plus 1 Tbs. unbleached<br />
all-purpose flour<br />
½ cup cornmeal<br />
2 tsp. sugar<br />
½ tsp. baking powder<br />
½ tsp. baking soda<br />
1 large egg, beaten<br />
/₃ cup whole milk<br />
2 Tbs. plain thick Greek yogurt<br />
or sour cream, plus more for<br />
serving<br />
Honey, preferably local,<br />
for serving<br />
In a medium (10-inch) heavy,<br />
nonstick, ovenproof skillet, heat<br />
½ Tbs. of the butter with the olive<br />
oil over medium-high heat. Add<br />
the zucchini and ₈ tsp. salt and<br />
cook, stirring only occasionally,<br />
until the zucchini are shrunken a<br />
bit and starting to brown lightly,<br />
about 3 minutes. Add another<br />
½ Tbs. butter, the corn, scallions,<br />
serranos, and ½ tsp. salt. cook,<br />
stirring occasionally, until the<br />
corn kernels are glistening and<br />
some are slightly shrunken, 2 to<br />
3 more minutes. remove the pan<br />
from the heat, season the veggies<br />
with black pepper, and transfer to<br />
a mixing bowl. Let cool to room<br />
temperature, stirring occasionally<br />
(20 to 25 minutes). stir in the<br />
parsley and chives.<br />
In a medium mixing bowl, whisk<br />
together the flour, cornmeal,<br />
sugar, baking powder, baking<br />
soda, and ½ tsp. salt.<br />
melt the remaining 2 Tbs.<br />
butter (in the microwave or on<br />
the stovetop) and let cool slightly.<br />
In a small bowl, whisk together the<br />
egg, milk, yogurt, and the melted<br />
butter. make a well in the center<br />
of the dry ingredients and pour<br />
in the liquid mixture, whisking<br />
until just combined. combine<br />
the batter with the vegetable<br />
herb mixture and stir well. Let the<br />
batter sit for 5 minutes or up to<br />
30 minutes.<br />
In a large (12-inch) nonstick<br />
skillet, heat about ½ Tbs. butter<br />
and 1 Tbs. olive oil over medium<br />
heat. When the butter has melted<br />
and is bubbling, use a 1/4-cup<br />
measure to scoop batter into<br />
the pan, forming 3 to 4 pancakes.<br />
cook for about 2 minutes, until<br />
the pancakes are golden brown<br />
on the bottom (you will see a lot<br />
of bubbles on top), then flip. cook<br />
for 1 minute more. (The bottom<br />
will brown more quickly.) Transfer<br />
to a paper towel–lined plate<br />
and keep warm in a low (200°f)<br />
oven, if desired. repeat with the<br />
remaining batter, adding butter<br />
and oil as necessary, and turning<br />
the heat down as necessary.<br />
serve warm with dollops of<br />
greek yogurt and a generous<br />
drizzle of honey.<br />
68 cookfresh summer 2017
TEMP TIP<br />
Keep adjusting the heat during fry<br />
ing. Too high, it can overcook the<br />
chicken and make the coating taste<br />
bitter. Too low, it causes the coating<br />
to absorb oil and become greasy.<br />
fInecookIng.com 69
70 cookfresh summer 2017
No. 2: Marinate meat<br />
honey-balsamic pulled pork<br />
with avocado relish<br />
Throw a few things in the slow cooker in the morning<br />
and come home to fork-tender pork simmering<br />
in a rich, sweet sauce. Serve the relish alongside<br />
or use it as a topping for pulled pork sandwiches.<br />
Serves 4, with leftover pork for 4 to 6<br />
1/4 cup honey<br />
1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce<br />
1/4 cup aged balsamic vinegar<br />
2 3-inch rosemary sprigs<br />
1 medium clove garlic, minced<br />
1 5-lb. bone-in pork shoulder<br />
Kosher salt<br />
2 ripe Hass avocados, diced<br />
2 Tbs. pickled jalapeño rings, chopped<br />
1 Tbs. apple cider vinegar<br />
Combine the honey, Worcestershire, vinegar, rosemary,<br />
and garlic in a 5- to 6-quart slow cooker. Add the pork<br />
and turn to coat. Cover and cook until fork-tender, about<br />
6 hours on high or 10 hours on low.<br />
Transfer the pork to a large cutting board. Discard the<br />
rosemary. Pour the liquid into a fat separator. Pull the pork<br />
into chunks, discarding the bone and any large pieces of<br />
fat or gristle. Transfer to a large bowl.<br />
Defat the liquid and bring to a boil in a 2-quart saucepan<br />
over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Cook until<br />
reduced to about 1 cup, about 6 minutes. Pour over the<br />
meat, toss well, and season to taste with salt.<br />
In a small bowl, mix the avocados, jalapeños, vinegar,<br />
and salt to taste. Serve with the pork.<br />
No. 3: Top fruit<br />
broiled grapefruit with<br />
honey, vanilla, and cardamom<br />
Grapefruit halves are a breakfast classic, but adding just a<br />
few intense flavorings and then broiling elevates them to a<br />
whole new level of deliciousness. Serves 4<br />
4 great ideas<br />
for leftover pork<br />
• Add to a quesadilla along with<br />
charred onions, peppers, and cheese.<br />
• Stir into a frittata with roasted<br />
poblanos and corn.<br />
• Mix into your favorite hash and serve<br />
with a poached egg.<br />
• Layer with cheese, peaches, and hot<br />
sauce for a gourmet grilled cheese.<br />
2 large grapefruit<br />
2 Tbs. honey<br />
1 tsp. pure vanilla extract<br />
Seeds of 1 cardamom pod,<br />
ground in a mortar (or a<br />
pinch of ground cardamom)<br />
Position an oven rack about<br />
4 inches below the broiler and<br />
heat the broiler on high. With a<br />
serrated knife, cut the grapefruit<br />
in even halves. Using a small<br />
paring knife or a grapefruit knife,<br />
cut each section away from the<br />
surrounding membrane. Set the<br />
grapefruit halves in a shallow<br />
broiler-safe pan (such as an<br />
enameled baking dish or a heavyduty<br />
rimmed baking sheet). If<br />
necessary, trim a thin slice off<br />
their bottoms so they sit level.<br />
In a small bowl, stir together<br />
the honey and the vanilla extract.<br />
Drizzle the honey mixture over<br />
the grapefruit halves. Dust each<br />
with a bit of cardamom. Broil until<br />
bubbling and lightly browned in<br />
spots, 4 to 6 minutes. Remove<br />
from the oven and let cool<br />
slightly. Serve warm or at room<br />
temperature.<br />
finecooking.com 71
No. 5: Flavor butter<br />
fried chicken with paprika<br />
and honey butter<br />
The union of crisp coating, smoky heat, and sweet slather is a beautiful<br />
one indeed. The butter is so yummy that you may want to double<br />
the recipe to have some on hand for toast and waffles. Serves 4<br />
No. 4: Purée<br />
and freeze<br />
mango-honeymint<br />
sorbet<br />
Here, honey replaces the sugar syrup<br />
that usually sweetens sorbet, lending<br />
it a deeper flavor. Be sure to purée the<br />
sorbet mixture until completely smooth<br />
for the best texture. Serves 8<br />
1 or 2 large oranges, finely grated to yield<br />
½ tsp. zest, squeezed to yield ½ cup juice<br />
4 cups chopped, peeled, very ripe mango<br />
(from about 3 large)<br />
½ cup mild honey (such as clover)<br />
2 tsp. chopped fresh mint<br />
½ tsp. kosher salt<br />
Combine all of the ingredients with ½ cup<br />
water in a blender and purée until completely<br />
smooth. Freeze in an ice cream maker<br />
according to the manufacturer’s instructions.<br />
Serve immediately or transfer to an airtight<br />
container and freeze for a firmer texture.<br />
The sorbet will keep in the freezer for up to<br />
1 month. If the texture becomes icy, melt the<br />
sorbet and refreeze it in the ice cream maker.<br />
FOR THE BRINE<br />
2½ oz. kosher salt (½ cup<br />
Diamond Crystal or 1/4 cup plus<br />
1 tsp. Morton)<br />
½ cup granulated sugar<br />
1/4 tsp. crushed red<br />
pepper flakes<br />
1 large orange<br />
1 large lemon<br />
2 boneless skin-on chicken<br />
breasts, halved crosswise<br />
2 boneless skin-on chicken thighs<br />
2 bone-in chicken drumsticks<br />
FOR THE HONEY BUTTER<br />
4 oz. (½ cup) unsalted butter,<br />
softened<br />
½ cup honey<br />
½ tsp. kosher salt; more to taste<br />
FOR DREDGING AND FRYING<br />
9 oz. (2 cups) all-purpose flour<br />
11/4 oz. (1/4 cup) rice flour<br />
1 Tbs. plus ½ tsp. kosher salt;<br />
more for serving<br />
1 Tbs. garlic powder<br />
1 Tbs. freshly ground<br />
black pepper<br />
2 tsp. onion powder<br />
½ tsp. baking powder<br />
1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper<br />
11/4 tsp. smoked paprika<br />
2 cups buttermilk<br />
1 gallon canola oil or<br />
rice bran oil<br />
BRINE THE CHICKEN<br />
Combine the salt, sugar, pepper<br />
flakes, and 1 gallon water in a large<br />
pot. Using a vegetable peeler, zest<br />
the orange and lemon in strips, and<br />
add the zest to the pot. Stir over<br />
medium heat until the salt and sugar<br />
dissolve, about 5 minutes. Cool to<br />
room temperature in the pot or other<br />
large container. Add the chicken, cover,<br />
and refrigerate for at least 12 and<br />
up to 24 hours.<br />
MAKE THE HONEY BUTTER<br />
Using an electric mixer, whip the butter<br />
ingredients in a medium bowl until<br />
fluffy, about 2 minutes. Season to<br />
taste with more salt.<br />
DREDGE AND FRY THE CHICKEN<br />
In a large bowl, whisk the flours, 1 Tbs.<br />
of the salt, garlic powder, black pepper,<br />
onion powder, baking powder,<br />
cayenne, and 1/4 tsp. of the paprika.<br />
Remove the chicken from the brine<br />
and blot dry with paper towels.<br />
Pour the buttermilk into a medium<br />
bowl and dip a piece of chicken into<br />
it, letting the excess drip back into<br />
the bowl. Dredge the chicken in the<br />
flour mixture, dragging it through to<br />
coat both sides but not too thickly.<br />
Repeat with the remaining pieces and<br />
set aside while you heat the oil.<br />
Set a wire rack on a paper towel–<br />
lined rimmed baking sheet. Fit an<br />
8-quart Dutch oven or other heavyduty<br />
pot with a deep-fry thermometer,<br />
add the oil, and heat over medium<br />
high to 340°F. Working in batches,<br />
fry the chicken, adjusting the heat as<br />
needed to maintain 340°F, until an<br />
instant-read thermometer registers<br />
165°F in the thickest part of each<br />
piece, about 8 minutes for the boneless<br />
pieces and 10 to 12 minutes for<br />
the drumsticks.<br />
Transfer the chicken to the rack.<br />
Combine the remaining 1 tsp. paprika<br />
and ½ tsp. kosher salt and sprinkle<br />
half of it over the chicken while it’s<br />
hot. Let the chicken rest 1 minute,<br />
turn the pieces over, then sprinkle a<br />
little of the paprika mixture over the<br />
other side. Serve with the honey butter<br />
on the side, or generously smear<br />
some of it on the chicken before<br />
serving.<br />
72 cookfresh summer 2017
TEMP TIP<br />
Keep adjusting the heat during<br />
frying . Too high , it can overcook the<br />
chicken and make the coating taste<br />
bitter . Too low , it causes the coating<br />
to absorb oil and become greasy .
No. 6: Add<br />
to a glaze<br />
honey-chipotle<br />
glazed flank steak<br />
This steak takes just a handful<br />
of minutes under the broiler.<br />
Serves 4<br />
2 tsp. olive oil<br />
2 tsp. minced garlic<br />
½ tsp. ground cumin<br />
Kosher salt<br />
1½ Tbs. minced canned chipotle<br />
in adobo sauce<br />
1 Tbs. honey<br />
1 Tbs. fresh lime juice<br />
1 tsp. finely grated lime zest<br />
1 lb. flank steak<br />
Position an oven rack 6 inches below<br />
the broiler and heat the broiler on<br />
high. Line a large rimmed baking sheet<br />
with foil.<br />
Combine 1 tsp. of the oil, the garlic,<br />
cumin, and ½ tsp. salt in a 1-quart<br />
saucepan over medium-low heat;<br />
cook, stirring occasionally, until the<br />
garlic is golden, about 2 minutes.<br />
Add the chipotle and honey and stir<br />
until heated through, about 1 minute.<br />
Remove from the heat and stir in the<br />
lime juice and zest.<br />
Rub the flank steak with the<br />
remaining 1 tsp. oil and season<br />
generously with salt. Transfer to the<br />
prepared baking sheet and broil,<br />
turning once, until slightly browned<br />
and cooked to your liking, about<br />
3 minutes per side for medium rare.<br />
Spread the glaze over the top of the<br />
steak and broil until it begins to bubble<br />
and darken in places, 1 to 2 minutes.<br />
Transfer to a cutting board and let rest<br />
for 5 minutes. Slice against the grain<br />
and serve.<br />
74 cookfresh summer 2017
No. 8: Sweeten<br />
vegetables<br />
carrot salad with<br />
walnut oil and honey<br />
You might be surprised how well the toasty flavors<br />
of the walnuts and walnut oil complement the<br />
freshly grated carrot. This salad would be a<br />
delicious accompaniment to roast pork or chicken.<br />
Serves 6<br />
No. 7: Dress a salad<br />
mixed herb salad<br />
with honey-lime dressing<br />
A riff on the cabbage slaw traditionally served with tonkatsu,<br />
this salad goes the extra flavor mile with lots of fresh herbs,<br />
crunchy vegetables, and a tangy Thai-inspired dressing.<br />
Serves 8<br />
FOR THE SALAD<br />
4 cups mixed mesclun greens<br />
2 cups coarsely chopped<br />
bibb lettuce<br />
1 cup very thinly sliced<br />
green cabbage<br />
1 cup fresh basil leaves,<br />
preferably Thai basil, large<br />
leaves coarsely torn<br />
1 cup fresh mint leaves<br />
1 cup fresh cilantro leaves,<br />
coarsely chopped<br />
4 small scallions (white and<br />
green parts), sliced into<br />
1-inch lengths<br />
1 cup cherry or grape<br />
tomatoes, halved<br />
½ cup very thinly sliced<br />
red onion<br />
½ cup very thinly sliced<br />
red bell pepper<br />
FOR THE DRESSING<br />
2½ Tbs. fresh lime juice<br />
2½ Tbs. honey<br />
2 tsp. fish sauce<br />
1/8 tsp. minced garlic<br />
2 Tbs. thinly sliced fresh red or<br />
green chile or both (optional)<br />
Kosher salt and freshly<br />
ground black pepper<br />
Make the salad<br />
In a large bowl, combine the<br />
mesclun, lettuce, cabbage, basil,<br />
mint, cilantro, scallions, tomatoes,<br />
onion, and bell pepper.<br />
Make the dressing<br />
In a small bowl, whisk the lime<br />
juice, honey, fish sauce, garlic,<br />
and chile, if using. Season to<br />
taste with salt and pepper.<br />
Just before serving, toss the<br />
salad mixture with just enough<br />
of the dressing to coat the salad<br />
lightly—you may not need all of<br />
the dressing.<br />
Make ahead:<br />
You can combine, cover, and refrigerate<br />
the salad ingredients up<br />
to 6 hours ahead. The dressing<br />
can be made up to 1 day ahead.<br />
1½ lb. carrots, peeled and grated on the medium<br />
holes of a box grater<br />
1 cup walnuts, toasted and chopped<br />
½ cup dried currants<br />
1 orange, juiced (about ½ cup)<br />
3 Tbs. apple-cider vinegar<br />
1 Tbs. honey<br />
3 Tbs. untoasted walnut oil (for sources, see p. 93)<br />
Kosher or sea salt<br />
Freshly ground black pepper<br />
2½ Tbs. finely chopped chives<br />
Combine the grated carrots, walnuts, and currants in a<br />
medium serving bowl.<br />
In a small bowl, whisk together the orange juice, cider<br />
vinegar, and honey. Slowly whisk in the walnut oil. Season<br />
with salt and pepper to taste.<br />
Toss the carrot mixture with the vinaigrette and 2 Tbs.<br />
of the chives. Adjust the seasoning to taste. You can<br />
serve the salad immediately, but it will taste even better<br />
if you let it sit at room temperature for 15 to 20 minutes.<br />
Sprinkle with the remaining ½ Tbs. chives right before<br />
serving.
Berry Sweets<br />
Make the most of fresh, ripe berries in tempting<br />
seasonal desserts.<br />
76 cookfresh summer 2017
summer<br />
berry trifle<br />
Use any type of berry you<br />
like—just make sure you<br />
choose the ripest, tastiest<br />
ones available. The bread<br />
will soak up all their sweet<br />
juices. Serves 10 to 12<br />
11/2 quarts mixed fresh berries<br />
(hull and quarter strawberries),<br />
plus extra berries<br />
for garnish<br />
3/4 cup plus 1 Tbs. granulated<br />
sugar<br />
4 tsp. minced fresh ginger<br />
1 lb. day-old French bread,<br />
crusts removed, crumb<br />
cut into 1/2-inch cubes<br />
(5 to 6 cups)<br />
1/2 cup Grand Marnier or<br />
Cointreau<br />
11/2 cups heavy cream<br />
Heat the berries and 3/4 cup of<br />
the sugar in a 4-quart saucepan<br />
over medium-high heat, stirring<br />
occasionally, until they start to<br />
release juice but are still whole<br />
and intact, about 5 minutes.<br />
Stir in the ginger and pour the<br />
mixture onto a rimmed baking<br />
sheet to cool.<br />
Meanwhile, in a large bowl,<br />
toss the bread with 5 Tbs. of<br />
the liqueur. In a chilled metal<br />
bowl with chilled beaters, whip<br />
the cream with the remaining<br />
3 Tbs. liqueur and 1 Tbs. sugar<br />
to almost-stiff peaks.<br />
In a 2- to 21/2-quart clear glass<br />
bowl, layer in the following order:<br />
1 mounded cup of bread cubes,<br />
1 cup of berries and juices, and<br />
1 cup of whipped cream. Repeat<br />
3 times—you should have 12<br />
layers total. For the final layers,<br />
use all the remaining bread,<br />
berries (and their juices), and<br />
whipped cream.<br />
Cover and refrigerate until the<br />
juice has completely softened<br />
the bread, at least 4 hours or<br />
overnight. Garnish with fresh<br />
berries before serving.<br />
blackberry ice cream<br />
Blackberry jam ups the intensity of this vibrant ice cream, enhancing the sweetness<br />
of fresh blackberries. Yields about 1 quart ice cream<br />
13/4 cups heavy cream<br />
1/4 cup whole milk<br />
1/2 cup granulated sugar<br />
7 oz. (11/2 cups) fresh or frozen blackberries<br />
1/2 cup seedless blackberry jam<br />
1 tsp. vanilla extract<br />
1/4 tsp. table salt<br />
Stir the cream, milk, and sugar in a 3-quart<br />
saucepan over medium heat until the sugar<br />
dissolves. Continue heating, undisturbed,<br />
until steam begins rising from the surface,<br />
about 2 minutes. Transfer to a blender. Add<br />
the blackberries, jam, vanilla, and salt and<br />
blend until smooth, about 1 minute. Strain<br />
through a fine-mesh sieve into a medium<br />
bowl. Refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, at<br />
least 6 hours or up to 1 day, covering with<br />
plastic wrap once cool.<br />
Stir the blackberry mixture and churn it<br />
in an ice cream machine according to the<br />
manufacturer’s instructions until it’s the<br />
consistency of soft-serve ice cream. Serve<br />
or pack into a container, seal, and store in the<br />
freezer for up to 1 week.<br />
finecooking.com 77
strawberry-yogurt brûlée<br />
Simple yogurt and fresh strawberries become a special treat<br />
with the addition of a crunchy, caramelized sugar topping.<br />
Enjoy it for breakfast or dessert. Serves 4<br />
2 cups plain whole-milk<br />
Greek yogurt<br />
1 cup coarsely chopped<br />
strawberries, plus several<br />
strawberry slices for garnish<br />
5 Tbs. turbinado or<br />
granulated sugar<br />
In a medium bowl, combine the<br />
yogurt with the chopped strawberries<br />
and 1 Tbs. sugar. Divide<br />
among four 6-oz. ramekins.<br />
Garnish each with a few strawberry<br />
slices. Sprinkle each with<br />
about 1 Tbs. sugar. Pass the flame<br />
of a torch over the sugar until it’s<br />
melted and browned, about<br />
30 seconds. Serve immediately.<br />
blueberry crostata<br />
This simple, rustic blueberry crostata is fabulous<br />
with ice cream. Serves 8<br />
3 cups (15 oz.) fresh blueberries<br />
63/4 oz. (11/2 cups) plus 3 Tbs. all-purpose flour<br />
3 Tbs. confectioners’ sugar<br />
1/4 cup granulated sugar<br />
2 Tbs. yellow cornmeal<br />
41/2 oz. (9 Tbs.) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes<br />
1 large egg yolk<br />
3 Tbs. ice water; more as needed<br />
1 large egg white beaten with 2 Tbs. water until foamy<br />
1 Tbs. turbinado or other “raw” sugar<br />
Mix the blueberries, 3 Tbs. of the flour, and the confectioners’<br />
sugar in a medium bowl. Set aside.<br />
Position racks in the top and bottom thirds of the oven<br />
and heat the oven to 350°F. Line two rimmed baking<br />
sheets with parchment.<br />
Combine the remaining 11/2 cups flour, granulated sugar,<br />
and cornmeal in a food processor and process until the<br />
consistency of fine sand. Add the butter and pulse until<br />
there are no visible pieces of butter. Add the egg yolk and<br />
water and pulse to form a soft dough, adding more water<br />
1 tsp. at a time as necessary. Gather the dough into a ball<br />
and divide into 2 even pieces.<br />
On a well-floured work surface, roll each piece of dough<br />
into an 11-inch circle and transfer to the prepared baking<br />
sheets. Divide the blueberry filling between the circles,<br />
mounding the berries and leaving a 11/2-inch edge around<br />
each circle. Sprinkle any remaining sugar-flour mixture<br />
around the berry mounds. Try to get an even amount of<br />
blueberries and dry ingredients in each crostata. Fold the<br />
edges up over the filling, pleating as you go, to partially<br />
cover the filling. Brush the exposed dough with the egg<br />
white wash and sprinkle with the raw sugar.<br />
Bake for 25 minutes. Rotate the sheets top to bottom<br />
and back to front. (If there is any white flour mixture<br />
showing, carefully spoon a little of the blueberry juices<br />
over to cover.) Continue baking until the crusts have<br />
browned and the filling is bubbling, about 25 minutes<br />
more. Cool on the baking sheets on a rack for at least<br />
15 minutes or to room temperature.<br />
To serve, slice each crostata into quarters and serve.<br />
Make ahead:<br />
The crostatas can be made up to 1 day ahead and stored<br />
on their baking sheets at room temperature, covered<br />
loosely with a clean kitchen towel. Just before serving,<br />
warm the crostatas on their baking sheets in a 200°F oven<br />
for 10 minutes.<br />
78 cookfresh summer 2017
strawberry and kiwi tart with honey cream<br />
This gorgeous tart highlights some of summer’s most beautiful produce, underscored by a mild honey<br />
cream filling. For best results, chill the filled tart before topping it with the fruit; otherwise, the filling may<br />
be too soft to hold the fruit up well. Yields one 91/2- to 11-inch tart, plus enough dough for a second tart<br />
For the crust<br />
10 oz. (21/4 cups) all-purpose flour; more for dusting<br />
31/2 oz. (3/4 cup plus 2 Tbs.) confectioners’ sugar<br />
6 oz. (12 Tbs.) cold unsalted butter,<br />
cut into 1/2-inch pieces<br />
1/4 tsp. kosher salt<br />
2 large eggs, 1 separated<br />
Cooking spray<br />
For the filling<br />
1 cup whole milk<br />
1/4 cup honey<br />
1/2 vanilla bean or 1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract or paste<br />
1 large egg<br />
1 large egg yolk<br />
11/2 Tbs. cornstarch<br />
1 Tbs. unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces<br />
1/2 cup whipping or heavy cream<br />
For topping and finishing the tart<br />
3 cups strawberries, halved, quartered, or sliced<br />
2 to 3 ripe kiwis, peeled and cut lengthwise into<br />
wedges or crosswise into rounds<br />
3 cups strawberries, halved, quartered, or sliced<br />
1/4 cup apricot or apple jelly<br />
2 Tbs. water or white wine<br />
Make the dough<br />
In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine<br />
the flour, sugar, butter, and salt. Mix on low speed until<br />
the butter begins to break up, about 1 minute. Increase the<br />
speed to just below medium and continue beating until<br />
the mixture looks sandy with butter pieces the size of tiny<br />
pebbles, about 2 minutes more.<br />
Turn the mixer off and add the whole egg and egg yolk<br />
(reserve the remaining white). Mix on low speed until<br />
incorporated. Increase the speed to medium and mix<br />
just until the dough pulls away from the sides of the bowl,<br />
about 30 seconds. Do not overmix.<br />
Divide the dough in half, press each half into a disk<br />
about 4 inches across, and wrap in plastic. Refrigerate<br />
one disk for at least 3 hours and up to 24 hours. (Freeze<br />
the other disk for up to a month; thaw in the refrigerator<br />
before using.)<br />
Shape and bake the crust<br />
Lightly flour a work surface and a rolling pin. Spray a 91/2- to<br />
11-inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom with<br />
cooking spray.<br />
Working quickly, roll the dough disk into a 1/8-inch-thick<br />
round. Transfer the dough to the tart pan and gently coax<br />
it into the pan, allowing the excess dough to hang over<br />
the sides. Roll the rolling pin over the top of the pan to cut<br />
off the excess dough. Patch any tears or cracks with the<br />
scraps. Refrigerate the crust for at least 20 minutes or<br />
freeze for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, position a rack in the<br />
center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F.<br />
Line the crust with parchment paper and fill it to the<br />
very top with beans or pie weights. Bake until the edges<br />
are golden, 18 to 20 minutes. Carefully remove the weights<br />
and paper. Bake until the center of the crust looks dry and<br />
is just beginning to color, about 5 minutes.<br />
Beat the reserved egg white. Brush the inside of the<br />
crust with some of the egg white (you won’t need it all) and<br />
return the crust to the oven until the egg white has dried,<br />
about 2 minutes. (This prevents the crust from getting<br />
soggy once you add the filling.) Cool completely on a rack.<br />
Make the pastry cream<br />
Combine the milk and 2 Tbs. of the honey in a 3- to<br />
4-quart saucepan. If using a vanilla bean, split it and<br />
scrape the seeds into the milk, then add the pod. Bring to<br />
a boil, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes. Remove the<br />
vanilla bean pod, if using.<br />
Meanwhile, in a medium heatproof bowl, whisk the<br />
remaining 2 Tbs. honey with the egg, egg yolk, and cornstarch<br />
until smooth, about 1 minute. Whisk half of the hot<br />
milk into the egg mixture until combined. Off the heat,<br />
whisk the contents of the bowl back into the remaining<br />
milk in the saucepan.<br />
Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until the<br />
mixture reaches a boil; it will thicken. Continue to cook for<br />
another minute past the boil, whisking constantly. Off the<br />
heat, whisk in the butter and vanilla paste or extract, if<br />
using. Strain the pastry cream through a medium-mesh<br />
sieve into a medium heatproof bowl. Cover with plastic<br />
wrap pressed onto the surface of the pastry cream to<br />
prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate until cold, at least<br />
2 hours and up to 3 days.<br />
Fill and top the tart<br />
In a medium bowl, beat the cream to stiff peaks with an<br />
electric hand mixer or a whisk.<br />
Beat the pastry cream to soften and smooth it. With a<br />
large spatula, fold the whipped cream into the softened<br />
pastry cream until thoroughly combined. Fill the crust with<br />
the crème légère, evening it out with the spatula. Refrigerate<br />
for at least 1 hour before topping with the fruit.<br />
Arrange the strawberries and kiwi on top of the filling.<br />
Note that because the filling is soft, you’ll need to work<br />
quickly while the filling is cold and more firm. Because it’s<br />
hard to move the fruit once it’s on the filling, you may want<br />
to practice your pattern on an empty sheet pan before<br />
placing it on the tart.<br />
Put the jelly and water or wine in a small saucepan.<br />
Simmer and whisk together to form a smooth glaze. Allow<br />
to cool slightly. Brush it on the exposed fruit, being careful<br />
not to pull up the cream filling from below. Refrigerate the<br />
tart until ready to serve. Serve the tart cold, within 6 hours<br />
of topping.<br />
80 cookfresh summer 2017
two crusts<br />
This recipe makes<br />
enough dough for two<br />
tart crusts; use one<br />
now and freeze the<br />
other for a delicious<br />
tart in your future.<br />
finecooking.com 81
lemon-buttermilk chiffon cake with raspberry sauce<br />
Buttermilk makes a classic chiffon flavoring extra-tangy, while cornmeal enhances the cake’s beautiful yellow color and adds a<br />
bit of texture (but not grit). Serves 12 to 16<br />
FOR THE CAKE<br />
7 large eggs<br />
11/2 cups granulated sugar<br />
1 Tbs. plus 2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest<br />
(from 2 to 3 large lemons)<br />
7 oz. (13/4 cups) cake flour<br />
21/4 oz. (1/2 cup) stone-ground<br />
yellow cornmeal<br />
11/2 tsp. baking powder<br />
1 tsp. table salt<br />
2/3 cup buttermilk<br />
2/3 cup neutral oil, such as canola<br />
or vegetable<br />
1 tsp. pure vanilla extract<br />
FOR THE SAUCE AND SERVING<br />
4 cups fresh or frozen raspberries,<br />
rinsed and well dried; more for garnish<br />
1/2 cup seedless raspberry jam<br />
1 oz. (1/4 cup) confectioners’ sugar;<br />
more to taste<br />
pinch of table salt<br />
Fresh mint leaves (optional)<br />
Whipped cream (optional)<br />
make the cake<br />
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven<br />
and heat the oven to 325°F. Have ready an<br />
ungreased, not nonstick 10x4-inch (16-cup)<br />
angel food cake pan.<br />
Separate the eggs, putting the yolks in a<br />
small bowl and the whites in a medium bowl.<br />
In a food processor, pulse 11/4 cups of<br />
the granulated sugar and the lemon zest<br />
until the zest is finely ground, about eight<br />
1-second pulses.<br />
Sift the flour into the bowl of a stand mixer<br />
or a large mixing bowl. Whisk in the sugar mixture,<br />
cornmeal, baking powder, and salt. Add<br />
the egg yolks, buttermilk, oil, and vanilla. Using<br />
the stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment<br />
or a handheld mixer, beat on mediumlow<br />
speed until blended. Increase the speed<br />
to medium high and beat until lighter in color<br />
and thick enough to form a slowly dissolving<br />
ribbon of batter when the paddle or beaters<br />
are lifted, about 3 minutes.<br />
Using the stand mixer fitted with a clean<br />
bowl and the whisk attachment or a handheld<br />
mixer with clean beaters, beat the egg whites<br />
on medium-low speed until foamy, about<br />
1 minute. Increase the speed to medium, and<br />
beat until the whites are opaque and form<br />
very soft peaks, about 11/2 minutes. Slowly add<br />
the remaining granulated sugar, and beat until<br />
the whites are thick and shiny and form soft<br />
peaks, about 11/2 minutes.<br />
Using a rubber spatula, scrape about onefourth<br />
of the whites into the batter and gently<br />
fold until blended. Add the remaining whites<br />
and gently fold until just blended with no visible<br />
streaks of either the whites or batter.<br />
Immediately scrape the batter into the<br />
cake pan. Bake until deep golden brown and<br />
springy when touched, about 60 minutes. The<br />
top will have cracks that still look moist inside.<br />
Immediately invert the pan onto its feet or<br />
by sliding the center tube onto the neck of a<br />
bottle. Let cool completely, then remove<br />
from the pan.<br />
The cake can be served immediately or<br />
covered and stored at room temperature for<br />
up to 5 days.<br />
Make the sauce<br />
In a food processor or blender, purée the<br />
raspberries, jam, confectioners’ sugar, and<br />
salt. Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh<br />
sieve over a small bowl, pressing firmly on the<br />
seeds. Season to taste with more confectioners’<br />
sugar. The sauce can be covered and<br />
refrigerated for up to 5 days.<br />
Serve slices of the cake with the sauce,<br />
berries, mint, and whipped cream, if using.<br />
create soft peaks fold in stages cool upside down<br />
Beat the egg whites only to soft peaks; any<br />
stiffer and they won’t expand well during<br />
baking. Stop beating when the tracks from<br />
the beaters are starting to hold their shape<br />
and the peaks flop over when the beaters<br />
are lifted.<br />
Lighten the batter with one-quarter of the<br />
egg whites so it’s easier to fold in the rest.<br />
When no streaks remain, gently pour and<br />
scrape the batter into the cake pan and bake<br />
right away so that it doesn’t deflate.<br />
Invert the cake so it doesn’t collapse as it<br />
cools. If your pan doesn’t have feet, suspend it<br />
on the neck of a wine bottle. The cake will cool<br />
a little faster this way, so you might want to do<br />
this even if your pan does have feet.<br />
82 cookfresh summer 2017
loosen the sides lift from the center saw to slice<br />
Run a long, thin knife around the cake before<br />
removing it from the pan. Since you didn’t<br />
grease the pan, you need to separate the cake,<br />
or it could tear.<br />
Grasp the center tube and pull straight up.<br />
The cake should slide right out of the pan. To<br />
remove the tube part of the pan, loosen the<br />
center and bottom of the cake with the knife,<br />
and pull the tube out.<br />
Use a serrated knife and a sawing motion to<br />
slice the cake without squashing the airy texture<br />
you worked so carefully to create.<br />
finecooking.com 83
test kitchen<br />
TIPS • TECHNIQUES • INGREDIENTS<br />
a bundt<br />
pan makes<br />
the messy<br />
technique<br />
of removing<br />
kernels from<br />
the cob a little<br />
easier.<br />
84 cookfresh summer 2017
teCHniQUe<br />
cutting corn off the cob<br />
For recipes like the Zucchini and Corn Pancakes<br />
on p. 68, you’ll need to remove corn kernels from<br />
the cob. This process can be messy—they like to<br />
bounce off the cutting board and end up scattered<br />
all over the counter and floor. To keep those kernels<br />
in their place, insert the tip of the ear of corn<br />
into the center hole of a Bundt pan. Cut the kernels<br />
away from the cob in long downward strokes,<br />
letting them fall into the pan.<br />
It’s also easy to preserve fresh corn kernels to<br />
keep on hand for tossing into salads, side dishes,<br />
sautés, or other weeknight dishes. Simply cut the<br />
kernels off the cobs, as described above, and then<br />
blanch them in boiling water for 1 to 2 minutes.<br />
Drain, let cool, and store in a covered container in<br />
the fridge for up to five days. Or freeze the kernels<br />
in a single layer on a baking sheet until hard, and<br />
then store in an airtight container in the freezer,<br />
where they’ll keep for up to three months.<br />
tiP<br />
shopping for corn<br />
Sometimes even the best-looking corn is bland<br />
and starchy. That’s because as soon as corn is<br />
picked, its sugar starts converting to starch. To<br />
make sure you get the best corn possible, try to<br />
buy it at a farmstand or farmers’ market, where<br />
it’s more likely to be fresh-picked. Look for corn<br />
that still has its husks, as well as soft, almost<br />
damp-feeling silk. It’s tempting to peel back the<br />
husk to peek at the kernels, but that can dry it<br />
out. Instead, give it a gentle squeeze from end to<br />
end to feel for plump kernels.<br />
inGredient<br />
miso<br />
Once enjoyed by only the emperors and shogun<br />
of Japan, miso now appears in some form at<br />
nearly every Japanese meal. The salty, savory<br />
flavors of miso—fermented soybean paste—are<br />
essential to numerous dishes like soups, dressings,<br />
glazes, and pickles.<br />
Making miso is still a revered art, and the flavors,<br />
textures, and aromas of different varieties<br />
are judged much like fine wine. After steaming<br />
and crushing soybeans, traditional miso houses<br />
add sea salt and koji, a culture made from grains<br />
like rice and barley that triggers fermentation.<br />
types of miso:<br />
Variables like the type of koji, the ratio of soybeans<br />
to koji, salt content, and length of fermentation<br />
lead to innumerable varieties of miso<br />
ranging in color from pale golden yellow to rich<br />
chocolate brown. For flavor-pairing purposes,<br />
think of miso in terms of two broad categories:<br />
light miso—typically called white, yellow, or sweet<br />
miso—and dark miso—red, brown, barley, and<br />
soybean miso.<br />
Generally, the lighter the miso, the sweeter<br />
and more delicate its flavor. Light miso is good<br />
in salads and dressings, and with lighter foods<br />
like fish, chicken, and vege tables (see p. 38 for a<br />
broccoli with miso recipe).<br />
Dark miso, which is fermented longer, will be<br />
saltier and “meatier.” Its rich, robust flavor is<br />
good for adding depth to soups and sauces. Try it<br />
with root vegetables, beans, or winter squash.<br />
Cooking with miso:<br />
Always add miso toward the end of cooking and<br />
never boil it, as high heat will destroy both its<br />
flavor and nutrients. For the smoothest sauces<br />
and soups, whisk miso into an equal amount of<br />
slightly warm broth until smooth, and then gradually<br />
stir the thinned miso back into the pot. Use<br />
about 1 to 1½ Tbs. of miso for every cup of liquid.<br />
Miso is a good substitute for salt or soy sauce or<br />
in place of anchovy paste for vegetarian recipes.<br />
Just remember, miso is quite concentrated in<br />
flavor, so a little goes a long way.<br />
the lighter the<br />
miso’s color, the<br />
more delicate<br />
its flavor.<br />
Buying and storing miso:<br />
Look for miso in plastic tubs or bags in the refrigerated<br />
section of Asian markets or health-food<br />
stores. Miso keeps for up to a year if sealed well<br />
and refrigerated.<br />
finecooking.com 85
test kitchen<br />
Mojo, a magical sauce<br />
In English, the word mojo is pronounced<br />
moe-joe and means magic power. In Spanish<br />
and in cooking parlance, the word is pronounced<br />
moe-hoe and refers to a citrusy garlic sauce. But mojo<br />
the sauce is still magical: It can be used as a marinade<br />
(Grilled Mojo-Marinated Flank Steak, p. 46), dressing, dip,<br />
condiment, and, of course, sauce. Popular throughout the Caribbean<br />
and in Latin America, its specific makeup differs from place to place<br />
as each region puts its own local stamp on it. Additional flavorings<br />
include onion, butter, or cilantro. Mojos may be raw or cooked,<br />
which mellows and sweetens the garlic.<br />
tip<br />
glossary<br />
Don’t throw out<br />
the cilantro stems<br />
When preparing cilantro for<br />
chopping in recipes like the<br />
Spicy Chipotle Shrimp,<br />
Avocado, and Corn Fajitas on<br />
p. 33, you don’t necessarily<br />
have to remove all of the<br />
stems. Cilantro stems are quite<br />
flavorful, so if they’re thin and<br />
tender-crisp (bite one to<br />
check), just chop them up<br />
along with the leaves.<br />
ingredient<br />
Aged<br />
balsamic<br />
vinegar<br />
The Honey-Balsamic<br />
Pulled Pork recipe on<br />
p. 71 calls for an aged<br />
balsamic, but we’re<br />
not asking you to<br />
splurge on the pricey,<br />
ultra-aged stuff.<br />
Instead, we’re looking<br />
for a balsamic that’s<br />
richer, thicker, and<br />
less acidic than the<br />
one you likely use for<br />
your vinaigrette.<br />
Ideally, it’s been aged<br />
for five or more years,<br />
but not all vinegars<br />
include their age on<br />
the label. If that’s the<br />
case, tilt the bottle; if<br />
the liquid is viscous,<br />
it’s a good bet it’s aged<br />
and a bit mellower<br />
than a younger<br />
balsamic.<br />
86 cookfresh summer 2017
ingredient<br />
3 great steaks for the grill<br />
When it comes to throwing<br />
a steak on the grill, flank<br />
steak, skirt steak, and hanger<br />
steak are three of our favorite<br />
choices. These boneless cuts<br />
from the belly area of the steer<br />
are full of rich beefy flavor and<br />
chewy texture. Because they’re<br />
relatively thin with a coarse and<br />
loose grain, they absorb marinades<br />
well. And since they’re<br />
thinly sliced across the grain<br />
before serving, portion sizes<br />
are flexible—a real advantage<br />
when you have a mixed group<br />
of steak lovers and light eaters<br />
coming to dinner.<br />
As its name implies, flank<br />
steak comes from the flank<br />
area of the steer, which is just<br />
in front of the hind legs. Marinated,<br />
grilled flank steak was<br />
the original London broil, a<br />
name now used for many other<br />
beef cuts.<br />
Skirt steak comes from the<br />
belly area in between the flank<br />
and the brisket, which is near<br />
the front legs. Its long, thin,<br />
belt-like shape reflects the<br />
fact that it’s the preferred cut<br />
for fajitas—fajita means “belt”<br />
in Spanish. Try it: Herb-Marinated<br />
Skirt Steaks, p. 62.<br />
Popular in French bistros,<br />
hanger steak is an interior<br />
cut that hangs off the kidney<br />
and supports the diaphragm.<br />
Hanger steak is also known<br />
as butcher’s steak because<br />
butchers tend to save this<br />
prized cut for themselves.<br />
Because there’s only one per<br />
animal and it’s not well known<br />
outside France, it can be hard<br />
to find. If you do come across it<br />
and it still has its center membrane<br />
(as shown at right), trim<br />
it out before cooking—you’ll<br />
end up with two large pieces of<br />
hanger steak after trimming.<br />
skirt<br />
hanger<br />
flank<br />
tip<br />
A quick way to peel<br />
a ton of garlic<br />
The Grilled Pork with Mojo on p. 44<br />
calls for a whopping 50 cloves of<br />
garlic. You could buy peeled garlic to<br />
save yourself the peeling step, but if<br />
it’s not available, you can use a trick<br />
they teach in culinary school: To<br />
peel many cloves at once, put the<br />
cloves in a big metal bowl, and cover<br />
them with another metal bowl<br />
bottom side up. Then, while holding<br />
the bowls tightly together, shake<br />
like crazy. Not only is this kind of fun,<br />
but it also takes most of the skins<br />
right off.<br />
finecooking.com 87
test kitchen<br />
tiP<br />
A better way<br />
to peel a kiwi<br />
Kiwis make a colorful addition<br />
to many dishes, including the<br />
Strawberry and Kiwi tart on<br />
p. 80, but they bruise easily if<br />
handled too much. To peel one<br />
without damaging it, you can<br />
use a knife or a peeler, but<br />
there’s another tool that<br />
leaves the peeled fruit smooth<br />
and rounded instead of<br />
beveled. Here’s how to peel a<br />
kiwi with a spoon: Slice off both<br />
ends with a paring knife. Slide a<br />
soup spoon under the skin, and<br />
holding the spoon steady,<br />
gently turn the kiwi to release it<br />
from the skin.<br />
inGredient<br />
cool cucumbers for salads<br />
enGliSH<br />
PerSian<br />
JaPaneSe<br />
When choosing cucumbers<br />
for summer salads,<br />
such as the Basmati<br />
rice Salad with Mango<br />
and Cucumber on p. 54,<br />
skip the common ones<br />
at the supermarket,<br />
which usually are waxed<br />
for a longer shelf life<br />
and tend to be seedy.<br />
Instead, try one of the<br />
varieties at left. All are<br />
crisp, with small seeds,<br />
and have thin, unwaxed<br />
skin that doesn’t require<br />
peeling.<br />
tiP<br />
create your<br />
own pasta salad<br />
The method for making grain<br />
salads, pp. 54–59, also works<br />
with little pastas like fregola, orzo,<br />
ditalini, and Israeli couscous. Just<br />
keep the following tips in mind<br />
when making the swap.<br />
• Use more vinaigrette. Pasta will<br />
absorb more dressing than grains do.<br />
To compensate, use the entire amount<br />
of the vinaigrette recipe on p. 57 for a<br />
pasta salad.<br />
• Up the salt and vinegar. The flavor of<br />
pasta is more neutral than that of grains,<br />
so you may need to add more vinegar<br />
and salt to the vinaigrette to boost your<br />
salad’s flavor.<br />
• Cook your pasta until just al dente.<br />
Pasta absorbs a lot of vinaigrette and<br />
can get soggy, but if your pasta is firm,<br />
that’s less likely to happen.<br />
• don’t make pasta salad ahead. Serve<br />
it within an hour or two of making, since<br />
it doesn’t hold up as well over time as<br />
salads made with hearty grains.<br />
88 cookfresh summer 2017
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INGREDIENT<br />
Guava<br />
Although not so well known in the<br />
United States, guava is a popular<br />
fruit in many tropical countries.<br />
Native to Mexico, Central America,<br />
and northern South America, guavas<br />
(guayabas in Spanish) are small round<br />
or oval fruits with a yellow to dark green<br />
skin and white to hot pink flesh.<br />
Fresh guava isn’t in season in the summer, so<br />
you can use either guava jelly or paste in the Cream<br />
Cheese and Guava Swirl Ice Cream on p. 52. Guava<br />
paste is sliceable and similar to quince paste (membrillo).<br />
Guava jelly is looser and spreadable. Both are also<br />
delicious with cheese and crackers. Look for them at the<br />
supermarket or at Latin markets, or see Sources, p. 93.<br />
TIP<br />
TECHNIQUE<br />
What we mean by dice<br />
For the grain salads, pp. 54–59, we call for a variety<br />
of ingredient dice sizes. To “dice” means to cut a food<br />
into cubes, making it look like playing dice—hence the<br />
name. If the food is flat, like a bell pepper, the dice<br />
will be more of a square than a cube. Each size of dice<br />
has its own corresponding measurement, as shown<br />
below. That said, there’s no need to pull a ruler out<br />
every time. Use these dimensions as guidelines, and<br />
try to keep the dice a consistent size so the food<br />
cooks evenly.<br />
Large dice = ¾ inch<br />
Small dice = ¼ inch<br />
A peeler hulls strawberries, too<br />
When you’re prepping strawberries for the Strawberry<br />
Mojitos on p. 53, reach for your peeler. Most vegetable<br />
peelers are designed with a pointed end on the top of the<br />
blade (or on the side, in the case of Y peelers). Its main<br />
purpose is to remove the eyes from potatoes, but it’s also<br />
an effective strawberry huller. Just insert the point below<br />
the stem of the strawberry and twist.<br />
Medium dice = 13 to ½ inch<br />
Fine dice = 18 inch<br />
90 COOKFRESH SUMMER 2017
CREDITS<br />
Many of the recipes and photos in this issue have appeared previously in Fine Cooking. Listed here are the<br />
original authors and issue numbers. Unless otherwise noted, all photos are by Scott Phillips.<br />
make it tonight<br />
Summer Salad with Peas,<br />
Parmesan, Fried Egg, and Bacon,<br />
Mindy Fox, #141<br />
Zucchini, Pea, and Pesto Lasagne,<br />
Ivy Manning, #142<br />
Chicken Horiataki Salad with<br />
Tzatziki, Elizabeth Karmel, #142<br />
Crab and Corn Cakes with Lime<br />
Sour Cream, Jill Silverman<br />
Hough, #136<br />
3 ways<br />
Scallion Oil; Korean-Style Scallion<br />
Pancakes; Lemony Scallion Pilaf,<br />
Julissa Roberts, #129<br />
peaches, savory &<br />
sweet<br />
Sherry Vinegar and Rosemary<br />
Marinated Peaches; Heirloom<br />
Tomato and Peach Salad;<br />
Braised Chicken Thighs with<br />
Savory Marinated Peaches;<br />
Brown Sugar and Thyme<br />
Marinated Peaches; Overnight<br />
Oatmeal with Sweet Marinated<br />
Peaches; Sweet Marinated<br />
Peach Tart with Honey-Yogurt<br />
Mousse, WIlliam Mickelsen, #136<br />
turn up the heat<br />
Spicy Chipotle Shrimp, Avocado,<br />
and Corn Fajitas, from Big Buy<br />
Cooking by Tony Rosenfeld,<br />
photo: Maren Caruso<br />
Bourbon-Marinated Buffalo<br />
Chicken Strips with Maytag Blue<br />
Dip, Aliza Green, #49<br />
Spicy Pan-Fried Noodles with<br />
Tofu, Matthew Card, #130<br />
Crispy Fish Sandwiches with<br />
Wasabi and Ginger, Ian Knauer,<br />
#122<br />
Spicy Asian Roasted Broccoli<br />
and Snap Peas, Julie Grimes<br />
Bottcher, #70<br />
Moroccan Chicken Burgers with<br />
Feta and Carrot Slaw, Karen<br />
Tedesco, #130<br />
farm to spoon<br />
Roasted Vegetable Broth;<br />
Creamy Roasted Pepper and<br />
Tomato Soup; Summer Greens<br />
and Rice Soup; Farmers’<br />
Market Minestrone, Domenica<br />
Marchetti, #130<br />
tropical bites & sips<br />
Grilled Pork with Mojo; Hemingway<br />
Special; Cream Cheese and<br />
Guava Swirl Ice Cream, Julissa<br />
Roberts, #135, photos: Gabriella<br />
Herman<br />
Grilled Mojo-Marinated Flank<br />
Steak, Norman Van Aken, #28<br />
Island-Spiced Chicken Salad with<br />
Mango and Scallions, from Big<br />
Buy Cooking by Tony Rosenfeld,<br />
photo: Maren Caruso<br />
Chi Chi Pache; Lift-Off, Camper<br />
English, #106<br />
Rum-Glazed Pork Skewers with<br />
Coconut Rice, Laraine Perri,<br />
#129<br />
Jamaican Rice and Peas, Mark<br />
Henry, #51<br />
Spicy Papaya Salad, Julissa<br />
Roberts, #126<br />
Hawaiian Garlic Shrimp, Dabney<br />
Gough, #130<br />
Strawberry Mojito, Adeena<br />
Sussman, #123<br />
Plátanos Maduros Fritos, Julissa<br />
Roberts, #124<br />
the new summer side<br />
Spelt Salad with Cherry Tomatoes<br />
and Zucchini; Millet Salad with<br />
Avocado and Citrus; Basmati<br />
Rice Salad with Mango and<br />
Cucumber; Bulgur Salad with<br />
Carrots and Peppers; Farro<br />
Salad with Artichokes and<br />
Fennel; Brown Rice Salad with<br />
Apples and Cheddar; Barley<br />
Salad with Peas and Asparagus;<br />
Quinoa Salad with Pears and<br />
Dried Cherries; Wheat Berry<br />
Salad with Green Beans, Joanne<br />
Weir, #117<br />
a simple summertime<br />
supper<br />
Olive Oil–Fried Almonds;<br />
Herb-Marinated Skirt Steaks<br />
with Pesto-Style Salsa Verde;<br />
Sun-Ripened Tomato and<br />
Olive Salad; Romaine Hearts<br />
with Lemon Vinaigrette; Berry<br />
Buttermilk Cake with Vanilla-<br />
Scented Crème Fraîche, Maria<br />
Helm Sinskey, #72<br />
cook with honey<br />
Zucchini and Corn Pancakes with<br />
Greek Yogurt and Honey, from<br />
Fresh from the Farm by Susie<br />
Middleton, photo: Alexandra<br />
Grablewski<br />
Honey-Balsamic Pulled Pork<br />
with Avocado Relish, Bruce<br />
Weinstein, Mark Scarbrough,<br />
#134<br />
Broiled Grapefruit with Honey,<br />
Vanilla, and Cardamom, Ruth<br />
Lively, #96<br />
Mango-Honey-Mint Sorbet,<br />
Ronne Day, #117<br />
Fried Chicken with Paprika<br />
and Honey Butter, Christine<br />
Cikowski, Joshua Kulp,<br />
#136<br />
Honey-Chipotle Glazed Flank<br />
Steak, Julissa Roberts, #132<br />
Mixed Herb Salad with Honey-<br />
Lime Dressing, Ed Schoenfeld,<br />
#100<br />
Carrot Salad with Walnut Oil and<br />
Honey, Dan Barber, #85<br />
berry sweets<br />
Summer Berry Trifle, Pam<br />
Anderson, #100<br />
Blackberry Ice Cream, Bruce<br />
Weinstein, Mark Scarbrough,<br />
#136<br />
Strawberry-Yogurt Brûlée,<br />
Adeena Sussman, #123<br />
Blueberry Crostata, Bruce<br />
Weinstein, Mark Scarbrough,<br />
#136<br />
Strawberry and Kiwi Tart with<br />
Honey Cream, Jennifer Yee,<br />
#137, photo: Andre Baranowski<br />
Lemon-Buttermilk Chiffon Cake<br />
with Raspberry Sauce, Abigail<br />
Johnson Dodge, #135<br />
Some of the recipes<br />
and photos in this issue<br />
were excerpted from<br />
these books:<br />
Big Buy Cooking by Fine Cooking<br />
(The Taunton Press, 2010);<br />
photos © Maren Caruso; food<br />
stylist: Katie Christ.<br />
SuSie Middleton<br />
Fresh from the Farm by<br />
Susie Middleton (The Taunton<br />
Press, 2014); photos ©<br />
Alexandra Grablewski & Susie<br />
Middleton; food stylist: Mark<br />
Pederson.<br />
92 COOKFRESH SUMMER 2017
SOURCES<br />
carrot salad with<br />
walnut oil and<br />
honey, page 75<br />
• International Collection<br />
Walnut Oil, $5.79 for<br />
8.45 oz., Plummarket.com,<br />
855-758-6627.<br />
spicy chipotle shrimp,<br />
avocado, and corn<br />
fajitas, page 33<br />
• La Morena Chipotles in Adobo,<br />
$5.50 per 13-oz. can,<br />
Mexgrocer.com, 877-463-9476.<br />
chi chi pache, page 49<br />
• Angostura bitters, $10.99 for 4 oz., Bevmo.com,<br />
877-772-3866.<br />
• St. Elizabeth Allspice Dram, $29.99 for 750 ml,<br />
Shoppersvineyard.com, 973-916-0707.<br />
• Coco Lopez coconut cream, $3.49 for 15 oz.,<br />
Cocolopez.elsstore.com, 630-343-0240.<br />
blackberry ice cream,<br />
page 77<br />
• Cuisinart Pure Indulgence Ice<br />
Cream Machine, ICE-30BC,<br />
$89.95, Cuisinart.com,<br />
800-211-9604.<br />
TO SHOOT<br />
crispy fish sandwiches<br />
with wasabi and<br />
ginger, page 37<br />
• Wasabi powder, $4.95 per 0.88-oz.<br />
can, Thrivemarket.com.<br />
cream cheese and guava<br />
swirl ice cream, page 52<br />
From Mexgrocer.com, 877-463-9476:<br />
• Guava paste, $4.95 for 21 oz.<br />
• Guava jelly, $6.95 for 17 oz.<br />
peaches, savory &<br />
sweet, pages 24–31<br />
• McCann’s steel-cut oats,<br />
$7.44 for 28 oz., Vitacost.com,<br />
800-381-0759.<br />
• Chia seeds, $11.39 for 16 oz.,<br />
Bobsredmill.com, 800-349-2173.<br />
lemon-buttermilk<br />
chiffon cake, page 82<br />
• Nordic Ware Angel Food Cake Pan,<br />
$25, Surlatable.com,<br />
800-243-0852.<br />
FINECOOKING.COM 93
nutrition<br />
Recipe<br />
Calories<br />
(kcal)<br />
Fat Cal<br />
(kcal)<br />
Protein<br />
(g)<br />
Carb<br />
(g)<br />
Total<br />
Fat (g)<br />
Sat Fat<br />
(g)<br />
Mono<br />
Fat (g)<br />
Poly<br />
Fat (g)<br />
Chol<br />
(mg)<br />
Sodium<br />
(mg)<br />
Fiber<br />
(g)<br />
MAKE IT TONIGHT, p. 15<br />
Summer Salad w/Peas, Parmesan, Egg, and Bacon 420 330 14 9 38 7 20 8 200 470 3<br />
Zucchini, Pea, and Pesto Lasagne 380 180 16 35 20 10 5 3 50 210 4<br />
Chicken Horiataki Salad with Tzatziki 540 200 38 48 22 7 12 2.5 80 1100 5<br />
Crab and Corn Cakes with Lime Sour Cream 480 260 33 25 29 8 10 7 245 990 2<br />
3 WAYS, p. 22<br />
Scallion Oil (per 2 Tbs.) 240 240 0 0 27 2.5 4.5 19 0 0 0<br />
Korean-Style Scallion Pancakes 180 40 6 30 4.5 1 1.5 1.5 45 520 2<br />
Lemony Scallion Pilaf 320 90 8 49 10 6 2.5 1 25 400 3<br />
PEACHES, SAVORY & SWEET, p. 24<br />
Sherry Vinegar and Rosemary Marinated Peaches 150 110 1 8 12 1.5 9 1.5 0 10 1<br />
Heirloom Tomato and Peach Salad 260 170 3 20 19 2.5 13 2 0 350 4<br />
Braised Chicken Thighs w/Savory Marinated Peaches 570 350 36 14 39 10 20 6 190 630 2<br />
Brown Sugar and Thyme Marinated Peaches 90 0 1 21 0 0 0 0 0 20 1<br />
Overnight Oatmeal with Sweet Marinated Peaches 350 110 9 53 12 1.5 2.5 8 0 75 7<br />
Sweet Marinated Peach Tart with Mousse 470 250 7 48 28 18 7 1 95 160 1<br />
TURN UP THE HEAT, p. 32<br />
Spicy Chipotle Shrimp, Avocado, and Corn Fajitas 520 230 28 48 25 3.5 16 4 170 660 8<br />
Bourbon-Marinated Buffalo Chicken Strips w/Dip 420 290 19 12 32 8 15 2 90 830 2<br />
Spicy Pan-Fried Noodles with Tofu 370 140 16 47 16 1.5 8 5 0 1760 4<br />
Crispy Fish Sandwiches with Wasabi and Ginger 650 420 26 31 47 7 16 22 140 1420 2<br />
Spicy Asian Roasted Broccoli and Snap Peas 290 180 7 24 20 3 11 5 0 800 6<br />
Moroccan Chicken Burgers with Feta and Carrot Slaw 360 170 26 23 19 5 9 3 110 730 4<br />
FARM TO SPOON, p. 40<br />
Roasted Vegetable Broth (per 1 cup) 70 30 2 2 3.5 0 2.5 0 0 280 0<br />
Creamy Roasted Pepper and Tomato Soup 370 240 5 26 27 5 17 3 15 450 5<br />
Summer Greens and Rice Soup 320 110 9 37 13 2 8 1.5 0 650 4<br />
Farmers’ Market Minestrone 350 140 9 39 15 2.5 10 2 0 550 6<br />
TROPICAL BITES & SIPS, p. 44<br />
Grilled Pork with Mojo 430 260 32 10 29 7 17 3 110 1400 1<br />
Hemingway Special 230 0 0 22 0 0 0 0 0 5 0<br />
Grilled Mojo-Marinated Flank Steak 440 330 24 5 36 8 25 3 60 660 1<br />
Island-Spiced Chicken Salad w/Mango and Scallions 340 170 28 15 19 4 9 4.5 100 470 2<br />
Chi Chi Pache 300 60 1 26 6 6 0 0 0 15 0<br />
Rum-Glazed Pork Skewers with Coconut Rice 550 190 25 53 22 8 7 5 80 720 3<br />
Jamaican Rice and Peas 270 80 7 41 9 8 0 0 0 180 4<br />
Lift-Off 250 0 0 12 0 0 0 0 0 10 0<br />
Spicy Papaya Salad 90 25 1 16 2.5 0 1.5 0 0 105 3<br />
94 cookfresh summer 2017
Recipe<br />
Calories<br />
(kcal)<br />
Fat Cal<br />
(kcal)<br />
Protein<br />
(g)<br />
Carb<br />
(g)<br />
Total<br />
Fat (g)<br />
Sat Fat<br />
(g)<br />
Mono<br />
Fat (g)<br />
Poly<br />
Fat (g)<br />
Chol<br />
(mg)<br />
Sodium<br />
(mg)<br />
Fiber<br />
(g)<br />
Hawaiian Garlic Shrimp 360 190 24 10 21 7 4 8 195 290 1<br />
Cream Cheese and Guava Swirl Ice Cream 320 180 2 32 20 12 5 1 70 110 1<br />
Strawberry Mojito 210 0 1 20 0 0 0 0 0 0 2<br />
Plátanos Maduros Fritos 150 60 1 24 7 1 3 3 0 0 2<br />
THE NEW SUMMER SIDE, p. 54<br />
Spelt Salad with Cherry Tomatoes and Zucchini 300 120 8 39 14 2 9 2 0 290 6<br />
Millet Salad with Avocado and Citrus 460 150 10 70 16 2.5 10 3 0 290 5<br />
Basmati Rice Salad with Mango and Cucumber 320 130 4 45 14 2 10 2 0 290 1<br />
Bulgur Salad with Carrots and Peppers 300 160 7 29 18 4.5 11 2.5 15 460 7<br />
Farro Salad with Artichokes and Fennel 390 190 11 45 21 2.5 12 5 0 380 8<br />
Brown Rice Salad with Apples and Cheddar 420 190 11 48 21 5 13 3 15 370 6<br />
Barley Salad with Peas and Asparagus 250 110 5 31 13 2 9 1.5 0 300 7<br />
Quinoa Salad with Pears and Dried Cherries 400 180 7 52 20 3 10 6 5 310 6<br />
Wheat Berry Salad with Green Beans 340 180 8 37 20 4.5 11 4 10 490 5<br />
A SIMPLE SUMMERTIME SUPPER, p. 60<br />
Olive Oil–Fried Almonds 243 197 8 7 22 2 14 5 0 298 4<br />
Herb-Marinated Skirt Steaks w/Salsa Verde 476 263 48 2 29 9 18 2 129 433 0<br />
Pesto-Style Salsa Verde 220 210 1 2 23 3 18 2 0 94 1<br />
Sun-Ripened Tomato and Olive Salad 166 128 2 9 14 2 11 2 0 720 2<br />
Romaine Hearts with Vinaigrette 101 90 1 2 10 2 7 1 2 155 0<br />
Berry Buttermilk Cake w/Vanilla Crème Fraîche 355 138 5 48 16 10 3 1 77 295 1<br />
COOK WITH HONEY, p. 68<br />
Zucchini and Corn Pancakes w/Yogurt and Honey 160 90 3 14 10 4 5 1 30 190 1<br />
Honey-Balsamic Pulled Pork (per 1 cup pork & 1/4 of relish) 500 250 42 21 28 6 15 4.5 130 570 7<br />
Broiled Grapefruit with Honey, Vanilla & Cardamom 90 0 1 22 0 0 0 0 0 0 2<br />
Mango-Honey-Mint Sorbet 120 5 1 31 0 0 0 0 0 70 1<br />
Fried Chicken with Paprika and Honey Butter 830 450 28 69 51 20 20 8 175 1690 2<br />
Honey-Chipotle Glazed Flank Steak 210 90 24 6 10 3.5 5 .5 70 530 0<br />
Mixed Herb Salad with Honey-Lime Dressing 45 5 2 10 0 0 0 0 0 270 2<br />
Carrot Salad with Walnut Oil and Honey 290 180 5 27 20 2 3.5 14 0 210 5<br />
BERRY SWEETS, p. 76<br />
Summer Berry Trifle 310 100 5 44 11 7 3 .5 40 23 2<br />
Blackberry Ice Cream 780 460 6 80 51 33 13 2.5 160 240 3<br />
Strawberry-Yogurt Brûlée 220 100 8 22 12 9 2 0 20 40 1<br />
Blueberry Crostata 300 120 4 40 14 8 4 1 55 10 2<br />
Strawberry and Kiwi Tart with Honey Cream 450 180 7 62 20 12 5 1 120 70 4<br />
Lemon-Buttermilk Chiffon Cake w/Raspberry Sauce 300 110 5 44 12 1.5 7 3.5 80 240 3<br />
The nutritional analyses have been calculated by a registered dietitian at Nutritional Solutions in Melville, New York. When a recipe gives a choice of ingredients, the first choice is the one used. Optional ingredients<br />
with measured amounts are included; ingredients with out specific quantities are not. Analyses are per serving; when a range of ingredient amounts or servings is given, the smaller amount or portion is<br />
used. When the quantities of salt and pepper aren’t specified, the analysis is based on 1/4 tsp. salt and 1/8 tsp. pepper per serving for entrées, and 1/8 tsp. salt and 1/1 6 tsp. pepper per serving for side dishes.<br />
finecooking.com 95
RECIPE INDEX<br />
Cover Recipe<br />
Chicken Horiataki Salad<br />
with Tzatziki ................................................... 18<br />
Beef<br />
Grilled Mojo-Marinated Flank Steak ..... 46<br />
Herb-Marinated Skirt Steaks<br />
with Pesto-Style Salsa Verde ..................62<br />
Honey-Chipotle<br />
Glazed Flank Steak ......................................74<br />
Pork & Lamb<br />
Grilled Pork With Mojo .............................. 44<br />
Honey-Balsamic Pulled Pork<br />
with Avocado Relish ................................... 71<br />
Rum-Glazed Pork Skewers with<br />
Coconut Rice ............................................... 49<br />
Summer Salad with Peas,<br />
Parmesan, Fried Egg, and Bacon ........... 16<br />
Poultry<br />
Basil-Tomato Stuffed<br />
Chicken Breasts .......................................... 98<br />
Bourbon-Marinated<br />
Buffalo Chicken Strips<br />
with Maytag Blue Dip ..................................35<br />
Braised Chicken Thighs with<br />
Savory Marinated Peaches ......................29<br />
Chicken Horiataki Salad<br />
with Tzatziki ...................................................18<br />
Fried Chicken with Paprika<br />
and Honey Butter ........................................72<br />
Island-Spiced Chicken Salad<br />
with Mango and Scallions ........................ 48<br />
Moroccan Chicken Burgers with<br />
Feta and Carrot Slaw ................................. 39<br />
Fish & Shellfish<br />
Crab and Corn Cakes with Lime<br />
Sour Cream .................................................. 20<br />
Crispy Fish Sandwiches with<br />
Wasabi and Ginger ......................................37<br />
Hawaiian Garlic Shrimp ............................. 51<br />
Spicy Chipotle Shrimp, Avocado,<br />
and Corn Fajitas .......................................... 33<br />
Pasta, Grains & Nuts<br />
Olive-Oil–Fried Almonds ......................... 62<br />
Spicy Pan-Fried Noodles with Tofu ...... 36<br />
Zucchini, Pea, and Pesto Lasagne .........16<br />
Vegetarian Mains<br />
Korean-Style Scallion Pancakes .............23<br />
Spicy Pan-Fried Noodles with Tofu ...... 36<br />
p. 49<br />
Zucchini and Corn Pancakes with<br />
Greek Yogurt and Honey ......................... 68<br />
Zucchini Boats with Basil<br />
Scrambled Eggs .......................................... 98<br />
Zucchini, Pea, and Pesto Lasagne ......... 16<br />
Salads<br />
Carrot Salad with Walnut<br />
Oil and Honey ...............................................75<br />
Heirloom Tomato and Peach Salad ......26<br />
Mixed Herb Salad with<br />
Honey-Lime Dressing ................................75<br />
Romaine Hearts with Lemon<br />
Vinaigrette .....................................................65<br />
Spicy Papaya Salad ..................................... 51<br />
Summer Salad with Peas,<br />
Parmesan, Fried Egg, and Bacon ........... 16<br />
Sun-Ripened Tomato and<br />
Olive Salad .................................................... 64<br />
Soups & Stews<br />
Creamy Roasted Pepper and<br />
Tomato Soup ................................................ 41<br />
Farmers’ Market Minestrone ...................43<br />
Roasted Vegetable Broth ......................... 41<br />
Summer Greens and Rice Soup .............42<br />
Breakfast<br />
Broiled Grapefruit with Honey,<br />
Vanilla, and Cardamom ............................. 71<br />
Overnight Oatmeal with Sweet<br />
Marinated Peaches .................................... 30<br />
Side Dishes<br />
Barley Salad with Peas<br />
and Asparagus ..............................................55<br />
Basmati Rice Salad with Mango<br />
and Cucumber .............................................54<br />
Brown Rice Salad with Apples<br />
and Cheddar .................................................55<br />
Brown Sugar and Thyme<br />
Marinated Peaches .................................... 30<br />
Bulgur Salad with Carrots<br />
and Peppers ..................................................54<br />
Farro Salad with Artichokes<br />
and Fennel .....................................................55<br />
96 COOKFRESH SUMMER 2017
Mango-Honey-Mint Sorbet ...................... 72<br />
Plum Meringue Fool ....................................98<br />
Raspberry Lemonade ................................98<br />
Strawberry and Kiwi Tart with<br />
Honey Cream ............................................... 80<br />
Strawberry Mojito ........................................ 53<br />
Strawberry-Yogurt Brûlée .........................78<br />
Summer Berry Trifle ................................... 77<br />
Sweet Marinated Peach Tart<br />
with Honey-Yogurt Mousse .......................31<br />
p. 42<br />
Grilled Yellow Squash with<br />
Lime Vinaigrette ..........................................98<br />
Jamaican Rice and Peas ...........................50<br />
Lemony Scallion Pilaf ................................. 23<br />
Millet Salad with<br />
Avocado and Citrus ....................................54<br />
Plátanos Maduros Fritos ........................... 53<br />
Quinoa Salad with Pears<br />
and Dried Cherries ...................................... 55<br />
Raspberry-Goat Cheese Pizza ...............98<br />
Raspberry-Ricotta Crostini ......................98<br />
Sherry Vinegar and Rosemary<br />
Marinated Peaches .....................................26<br />
Spelt Salad with Cherry Tomatoes<br />
and Zucchini .................................................54<br />
Spicy Asian Roasted Broccoli<br />
and Snap Peas ..............................................38<br />
Spicy Papaya Salad ......................................51<br />
Squash Fritters .............................................98<br />
Summer Squash Gratin .............................98<br />
Tomato-Basil-<br />
Hummus Bruschetta .................................98<br />
Wheat Berry Salad with Green<br />
Beans and Corn ...........................................59<br />
Sauces & Toppings<br />
Avocado Relish ..............................................71<br />
Honey Butter................................................. 72<br />
Maytag Blue Dip ........................................... 35<br />
Pesto-Style Salsa Verde ...........................63<br />
Roasted Plum and<br />
Shallot Chutney ...........................................98<br />
Scallion Oil ..................................................... 22<br />
Desserts & Beverages<br />
Berry Buttermilk Cake with<br />
Vanilla-Scented Crème Fraîche .............66<br />
Blackberry Ice Cream ................................ 77<br />
Blueberry Crostata .....................................78<br />
Chi Chi Pache ................................................49<br />
Cream Cheese and Guava<br />
Swirl Ice Cream............................................. 52<br />
Grilled Plums with<br />
Vanilla Ice Cream .........................................98<br />
Hemingway Special ....................................46<br />
Lemon-Buttermilk Chiffon<br />
Cake with Raspberry Sauce .....................82<br />
Lift-Off ............................................................50<br />
p. 72<br />
FINECOOKING.COM 97
WHAT WE’RE COOKING NOW<br />
Summer’s Best<br />
Twelve ways to use four seasonal ingredients we can’t get enough of.<br />
Summer Squash<br />
Squash Fritters<br />
Grate two medium squash and let<br />
drain for 20 minutes. In a large<br />
bowl, whisk three beaten eggs with<br />
about ¾ cup flour, then mix in some<br />
crumbled feta or chèvre, the<br />
squash, and chopped fresh mint.<br />
Season with salt and pepper and<br />
thin with a little milk to a thick<br />
batter. Cook tablespoonfuls of<br />
batter in a hot oiled pan until<br />
golden brown on both sides. Serve<br />
with thick yogurt and harissa.<br />
Summer Squash Gratin<br />
Cut small zucchini or yellow<br />
summer squash into half-moons.<br />
Toss with olive oil, fresh rosemary,<br />
panko, salt, and pepper. Arrange in<br />
a baking dish and top with Grana<br />
Padano. Bake until the cheese<br />
starts to brown.<br />
Grilled Yellow Squash with<br />
Lime Vinaigrette<br />
Slice yellow squash diagonally<br />
into ½-inch-thick planks. Brush<br />
with olive oil and sprinkle with<br />
salt. Grill on both sides over high<br />
heat until well browned and just<br />
tender. Whisk together extra-virgin<br />
olive oil, lime juice, chipotle chile<br />
powder, and salt and drizzle over<br />
the squash.<br />
Plums<br />
Plum Meringue Fool<br />
Gently cook chopped plums with<br />
ground cardamom and sugar until<br />
they start to soften and collapse.<br />
Mash the plums roughly with a<br />
fork. Let cool, then swirl the plum<br />
compote into a blend of half<br />
whipped cream and half Greek<br />
yogurt. Layer in dessert glasses<br />
with crumbled meringue cookies.<br />
Roasted Plum and<br />
Shallot Chutney<br />
In a bowl, toss halved plums and<br />
shallots with olive oil, dark brown<br />
sugar, grated orange zest, red<br />
pepper flakes, and salt. Arrange<br />
cut side down in a single layer on<br />
a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet.<br />
Roast at 400°F until tender, about<br />
20 minutes. Let cool and coarsely<br />
chop. Serve with pork or duck.<br />
Grilled Plums with<br />
Vanilla Ice Cream<br />
Lightly brush halved, pitted, firmripe<br />
plums with vegetable oil and<br />
grill cut side down over mediumhigh,<br />
indirect heat until just beginning<br />
to brown. Flip the plums and<br />
continue grilling until tender.<br />
Serve over vanilla ice cream with<br />
a sprinkle of sugar and a pinch<br />
of salt.<br />
Basil<br />
Basil-Tomato Stuffed<br />
Chicken Breasts<br />
Pound boneless, skinless chicken<br />
breasts thin. Place basil leaves<br />
and thinly sliced fresh tomato on<br />
one half of each breast. Fold the<br />
other half over, and close with<br />
toothpicks. Coat in beaten egg<br />
and panko. Sauté in olive oil<br />
until golden brown, and finish<br />
cooking in the oven. Serve with<br />
lemon wedges.<br />
Zucchini Boats with Basil<br />
Scrambled Eggs<br />
Halve 2 zucchini lengthwise;<br />
scoop out and chop the flesh.<br />
Scramble 6 large eggs until barely<br />
set. Gently fold the zucchini flesh,<br />
¼ cup mascarpone, 2 Tbs. thinly<br />
sliced basil, salt, and pepper into<br />
the eggs. Spoon the egg mixture<br />
into the zucchini halves and top<br />
with shredded mozzarella. Bake<br />
in a medium-hot oven until the<br />
zucchini is crisp-tender and the<br />
mozzarella is melted and bubbly,<br />
5 to 10 minutes.<br />
Tomato-Basil-Hummus<br />
Bruschetta<br />
Toss diced tomatoes with minced<br />
garlic and shallot, lemon juice,<br />
olive oil, salt, and pepper. Chop<br />
a large handful of basil, and toss<br />
gently with the tomatoes. Grill or<br />
toast a sliced baguette. Spread<br />
with some hummus and top with<br />
the tomatoes.<br />
Raspberries<br />
Raspberry-Ricotta Crostini<br />
Lightly toast baguette slices, and<br />
top with ricotta, fresh raspberries,<br />
toasted pine nuts, and a drizzle<br />
of honey.<br />
Raspberry Lemonade<br />
Purée equal parts raspberries and<br />
water in a blender. Strain and add<br />
lemon juice and agave syrup to<br />
taste. Serve over ice with a twist<br />
of lemon.<br />
Raspberry-Goat Cheese Pizza<br />
Spread mild goat cheese on<br />
stretched pizza dough. Sprinkle<br />
with fresh, whole raspberries,<br />
chopped walnuts, and fresh rosemary<br />
leaves. Drizzle with honey,<br />
and bake until the crust is golden.<br />
98 COOKFRESH SUMMER 2017
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new locations, new chefs and artisans,<br />
and fabulous new dishes.<br />
For showtimes, recipes,<br />
and more, go to<br />
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