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TRIP PLANNER: 

BAKER CITY 

PG. 114 

African Art 

for the Soul 

Fall Potato 

Recipes 

Gravel 

Riding 

Beer 

& Bounty 

RESCUE 

DIVERS 

In ACTION 

Oregon’s 

MASSIVE 

Growth 

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OREGON 

September | October volume 47

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Sports talk 

with Mike and 

Tom in the 

morning 

Amazing how what began as a way to make a living turned into a second family. Work is where people like 

Mike and Tom find a common connection and become lifelong friends. A lot of life happens here, and at 

SAIF we’re proud to be a part of it.

Learn more about SAIF 

and workers’ comp at saif.com.

Salvation in 

SCUBA Gear 

photography by Bradley Lanphear 

The daily grind can grow mundane and rote for most of us. 

Not so for Oregon’s rescue divers, who save lives, jump 

out of helicopters and chart nautical coordinates—all in a 

day’s work. Learn more about this high-intensity career in 

My Workspace (page 70). 

6 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2017

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2017 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 7

Bob Hood is hoisted back up to 

the helicopter during a training exercise. 


FEATURES 

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2017 • volume 47 

74 

Oregon Growth 

As Oregon charms more and 

more people into becoming fulltime 

residents, our state is feeling 

the crunch. 

written by Tricia Louvar 

83 

Have We Reached 

Peak Beer? 

When you can take a dip in a beer spa, 

pedal a boat around Portland’s rivers 

while drinking, and find strawberry 

cream and maple bacon beer, have we 

been overserved? 

written by Sheila G. Miller 

90 

A Bountiful Harvest 

The wheat in your food may be very, very 

local. Follow two families as they harvest 

their crops in The Dalles and Maupin. 

photography by Emily Greene 


An ignition 

switch for 

your engine 

of ideas. 

opb.org

DEPARTMENTS 

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2017 • volume 47 

62 

56 

Mike Long 

114 

Austin White Joni Kabana 

LIVE 

24 NOTEBOOK 

Curtis Salgado may be a Portland blues legend but he never stops 

working. Eliot Treichel talks about deeper meaning in young adult 

fiction. And embrace the fall feeling with farmers markets and 

corn mazes. 

32 FOOD + DRINK 

The origins of Oktoberfest, explained. And we have picks for best pizza 

and a hot spot for you to improve your oenophile profile. 

38 HOME + DESIGN 

The bathroom might be your home’s new hangout spot if you add cool 

tile and a soaking tub. Plus, tips for elevating the humble potato from 

side dish to main event. 

54 MIND+ BODY 

Chef Gregory Gourdet isn’t just a top chef at Departure. He’s also an 

ultrarunner who makes time for healthy living. 

56 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 

Mike Long brings ’50s pinup-style photography to the masses with 

Portland Pin-Ups. 

THINK 

62 STARTUP 

Dave Dahl puts bread in the rear-view mirror as he opens Discover 

African Art, a huge collection of African tribal masks and décor. 

66 WHAT’S GOING UP 

There’s no shortage of brewpubs opening—here are a few of 2017’s 

most anticipated. 

68 WHAT I’M WORKING ON 

Richard Taylor is using fractals found in art to help restore 

people’s vision. 

70 MY WORKSPACE 

A six-member team of rescue divers in Southern Oregon saves lives and 

takes chances. 

72 GAME CHANGER 

Fill Your Pantry events around the state connect farmers to 

consumers—and offer produce and other farm-fresh ingredients in bulk. 

18 Editor’s Letter 

20 1889 Online 

126 Map of Washington 

128 Until Next Time 

EXPLORE 

100 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 

The Oregon Vortex brings the paranormal to Gold Hill. 

102 ADVENTURE 

Our writer and his friends embark on a six-day bike journey on 

Oregon’s Outback Trail, renewing his love for Oregonians (and 

cheap beer). 

112 LODGING 

Panacea at the Canyon is glamping at its finest. 

COVER 

photo by Bradley Lanphear 

(see My Workspace pg. 70) 

12 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2017 

114 TRIP PLANNER 

Baker City is just the right mix of small-town charm and old-time 

glamour. 

120 NORTHWEST DESTINATION 

Washington’s Route 2 will get you to Stevens Pass for a ski 

adventure—but the tiny towns on the way will have you stopping for a 

closer look.

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on track. 

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result of a spine condition, you may benefit from spine surgery 

using Mazor X robotic technology available in Oregon only 

at Asante Rogue Regional Medical Center. 

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technology lowers the risk of post-surgery complications, 

reduces the risk of radiation exposure due to fewer imaging 

scans, decreases the patient’s recovery time and results in 

less pain after surgery. 

Learn more at asante.org/MazorX 

Surgery provided by the neurosurgeons of Southern Oregon Neurosurgical & Spine Associates, of Medford. sonsa.org 

1637

CONTRIBUTORS 

EMILY JOAN GREENE 

Photographer 

Gallery 

Spending the day experiencing 

wheat harvest in full swing was 

a new and exciting experience. 

In this instance, it felt like my 

camera acted as a passport into 

a new world. The strong sense 

of pride that these families 

have invested in their land and 

livelihood felt intimate and 

hardworking. I feel grateful I 

was able to have a chance to 

capture it. 

(p.90) 

HARRIET BASKAS 

Writer 

Northwest Destination 

For a city girl most comfortable 

in an airport or on an airplane, 

exploring small towns along 

Route 2 towards Stevens Pass 

posed potential challenges. 

What would I do if I crossed 

paths with Bigfoot on a hike? 

Could I spend a night in a B&B 

without cell service? Turns out 

the only difficult part of the 

assignment was figuring out 

how to ride on the ⅛-scale 

Skykomish railroad in a skirt. 

(p. 120) 

VIKI EIERDAM 

Writer 

What I’m Working On 

My introduction to Mike Long 

and Portland Pin-Ups was 

serendipitous. While covering 

Working Women’s Apparel and 

Retro Boutique in Vancouver, 

Washington the owner told me 

that Long referred his clients 

to her store for just the right 

infusion of 1940s fashion. It is 

this weaving of one story into 

the next and the proximity with 

which our lives are so entwined 

that I find most fascinating 

about being a writer. 

(p. 56) 

MICAH WHALEY 

Photographer 

Farm to Table 

Growing up working on a farm, in the fields and driving tractors, I have 

a special place in my heart for the lifestyle. It was great to shoot Wong 

Potatoes. There truly is beauty in the dirt, the grit and the dust. Finding 

a frame of beauty within a larger-scale scene is so pleasurable—it’s like 

getting lost in some sort of Inception trap, looking deeper and deeper at all 

the little frames that make up a much larger composition. 

(p.38) 


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EDITOR 

MANAGING EDITOR 

CREATIVE DIRECTOR 

DESIGN 

MARKETING + DIGITAL MANAGER 

WEBMASTER 

OFFICE MANAGER 

DIRECTOR OF SALES 

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES 

HOME GROWN CHEF 

BEERLANDIA COLUMNIST 

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS 

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS 

Kevin Max 

Sheila G. Miller 

Brooke Miracle 

Allison Bye 

Kelly Hervey 

Isaac Peterson 

Cindy Miskowiec 

Jenny Kamprath 

Cindy Guthrie 

Jenn Redd 

Jill Weisensee 

Thor Erickson 

Jeremy Storton 

Harriet Baskas, Melissa Dalton, Beau Eastes, Viki Eierdam, 

Kim Cooper Findling, Kjersten Hellis, Lee Lewis Husk, Julie Lee, 

Tricia Louvar, Sophia McDonald, Chris Peterson, Ben Salmon, 

Vanessa Salvia, Adam Sawyer, Mackenzie Wilson 

Andy Batt, Emily Greene, Bradley Lanphear, Ashlee Pierce, 

Adam Sawyer, Micah Whaley, Austin White, Nate Wyeth 

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12-time honoree in 

Portland Monthly’s 

“Top Doctor” list 

Lectured in 

12 countries on 

5 continents 

Scores points as 

a youth lacrosse 

coach 

Dr. Mark Whiteford, 

Colon & Rectal Surgeon 

with his daughter Ava 

Top rated and down to earth. 

oregonclinic.com/unique

FROM THE 

EDITOR 

WE BEGIN this issue with a nod to craft 

beer and its torrid pace of growth into 

every aspect of society. As of this writing, 

you can bathe in beer in a spa in Sisters. 

You can pedal a vehicle with one in your 

hand in various towns. Maybe you’d like to 

paint with it for a work of fine art or craft 

a barrel of it with yeast from a brewer’s 

beard. You can use it as inspiration when 

peering out at the stars in what must be 

the world’s first brewery observatory. 

The circus tent is getting larded up 

with so many acts of hopsurdity that each 

cannibalizes the prior, and the audience 

claps and moves on. As we begin to hit an 

inflection point where we’re seeing some 

breweries actually close, as if all of the 

absurdist ideas have been spent, we ask the 

question if we’ve reached peak beer in our 

feature on page 83. Let’s not lose sight of 

the fact that we can drink an honest pint of 

the world’s best craft beer, too. 

Likewise, in Oregon Growth on page 74, 

we take a step back from the day-to-day to 

take an economic selfie of Oregon’s growth 

pattern. As a state, Oregon is one of the top 

for in-migration of new residents. Whether 

it’s the beer, the wine or the Cascades, we 

consistently rank among states witnessing 

the most influx. How many more people 

will hire moving vans after visiting here for 

the solar eclipse? Let’s take a look at what 

the data says about growth, affordable 

housing and our common future. 

If you really want to get away from it 

all, head out to your bike shed. There, 

behind your road bike, mountain bike, 

cross bike and commuter bike, is your 

gravel bike. Gravel riding is done over 

Forest Service roads, and across private 

fields and pastures. Oregon is now home 

to an expanding effort to link networks of 

dirt roads together in an Oregon Trail for 

hearty bikers. While still new on the biking 

spectrum, gravel riding is the obvious perk 

of having so much beautiful open land in 

Oregon. Before you set your route, read 

about the story of four bikers who rode 

the length of the state, from Klamath Falls 

and 364 miles north to the Columbia River. 

We learn that when you present yourself 

to the unknown, the unknown provides 

in mysterious ways. See Straight Through 

The Heart on page 102. 

At the heart of all life is the African 

continent. At the center of African art in 

these United States is a newcomer. Dave 

Dahl, of Dave’s Killer Bread fame, has 

put together one of the country’s biggest 

and most impressive collections of tribal 

masks, figures, textiles and furniture in 

his new passion—Discover African Art. 

The story of this Startup is unlike any 

other we’ve written about. African art 

has become a tribal path for healing and 

recovery for Dahl, who has struggled with 

addiction in high-profile cases. Dahl looks 

back to one moment of intensity when he 

was seduced by a tribal mask. His passion 

went into overdrive, and today Dahl has 

more than 20,000 pieces of African art— 

from masks from the Democratic Republic 

of Congo to ancient doors from Nigeria. 

Turn to page 62 to see what is Behind the 

Masks. 

To my Irish-bent family, potatoes were 

always central to daily life. We kept a 

10-pound bag in the kitchen at all times. 

Early, I would eat them in their mashed 

form, with scoops of butter and well salted. 

One of four kids, I found them useful at 

times as a projectile bound for my hit-andrun 

older brother. Left long enough in the 

pantry, they could become a multi-limbed 

table centerpiece. Later, I learned that they 

could also be made into many dishes to 

reclaim Irish ancestry but with a culinary 

upgrade. In this issue’s Farm to Table, we 

behold the potato as seen through the eyes 

of a potato farmer in Klamath Falls on page 

38. Stop by and say hi at the Wong potato 

farm if you’re beginning or ending your 

gravel ride there. 


Children and families hurt, and heal, together. 

Parents are our partners in everything we do. 

amazingstorybook.com

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OUR GEAR. 

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Micah Whaley 

NOTEBOOK 24 

FOOD + DRINK 32 

HOME + DESIGN 38 

MIND + BODY 54 

ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 56 

pg. 38 

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Tidbits + To-dos 

Airlie Hills Harvest Festival 

and Corn Maze 

Pumpkins, squash, corn maze, oh my! One of the 

most intricate, skillfully constructed, carved and 

cared-for corn mazes in Oregon is just north of 

Albany at Airlie Hills Farm. It not only nurtures a 

corn maze each fall but a 5-acre pumpkin patch 

said to be one of premier patches in the state. 

Don’t forget the kettle corn and caramel apples 

after the hayride or a run on the pedal-kart 

track bordered by haystacks. 

airliehills.com 

mark your 

CALENDAR 

Portland Japanese Garden 

Packouz Jewelers’ 100th Anniversary 

Happy 100th, Packouz Jewelers! Founded in 1917, this jeweler 

is one of the oldest family-owned businesses in Portland. Its 

distinct engagement and bridal rings, necklaces and watches 

have created lifelong relationships with Oregon families for the 

past century. Packouz owners—native Oregonians and longtime 

jewelers—Rick and Tonya Mahler continue to support Portland 

by giving back to the community it has been a part of for 100 

years. Supporting one another is the best path to success, the 

Mahlers said. 

packouzjewelers.com 

During the last two years, the Portland 

Japanese Garden went through an architectural 

transformation (a $33.5 million expansion), and this 

fall will display Mirrors of the Mind: The Noh Masks 

of Otsuki Koukun, an exhibit of Otsuki Koukun’s 

thirty hand-carved masks and eight elegant brocade 

costumes from the traditional silk looms of Orinasukan 

in Kyoto. The exhibit celebrates the traditional 

Japanese masked drama melded with dance and 

song, an art form both elusive and elegant. The 

exhibit will be accompanied by performances of 

Living National Noh actor Kawamura Haruhisa. 

October 14-December 11 

japanesegarden.com 


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notebook 

Ladybug Chocolates 

What do caramel, smoked sea salt, mint, cayenne pepper, 

lavender and pumpkin have in common? They are all used 

as ingredients in Canby-based Ladybug Chocolates, a pure 

creative and delectable endeavor for a tried-and-true chocolate 

business. Handcrafted confections have been refined over 

generations since the Dye family began their family recipes in 

1906, and have been pleasing the palate ever since. It began 

an ocean away in Hawaii, where great-grandfather John Hiram 

Dye settled and managed a candy department for a local hotel. 

He began dipping macadamia nuts into chocolate, making a 

signature Hawaiian delicacy. The rest is history. 

ladybugchocolates.com 

Mount Angel Oktoberfest 

At Mount Angel’s Oktoberfest, all of the gartens 

are on tap: biergarten, weingarten, aplinegarten 

and prostgarten. The key is finding which 

garten suits you best. The Bavarian village 

hosts the oldest and most popular Oktoberfest 

celebration in Oregon. More than 350,000 

attendees gather at this celebration of the hops 

harvest, many clad in dirndls and lederhosen. 

The star of the show though, might just be the 

wiener dog races. 

September 14-17 

oktoberfest.org 

mark your 

CALENDAR 

Pendleton Woolen Mill 

With humble beginnings weaving woolen products 

in Oregon, Pendleton Woolen Mills now has fifty 

stores across the country and makes its mark in 

Europe, Japan, Canada and Australia. Two centuryold 

woolen mills, however, remain in the great 

Pacific Northwest. In 1863, Thomas Kay, an English 

weaver, put down roots in Oregon and after more 

than 150 years of weaving wool blankets, the 

company now makes women’s and men’s clothing, 

accessories, bedding, towels, even jackets for dogs. 

Pendleton signature National Park stripes and 

distinctive jacquard designs keep this company an 

Oregon staple. 

pendleton-usa.com 


2679 Commercial St SE 

Salem, OR 97302 

503-585-9749 

Earth & Sea 

Maloy's offers a fabulous selection of antique and 

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notebook 

Musician 

Back at It 

Curtis Salgado returns to the stage 

after heart surgery 

written by Ben Salmon 

BACK IN MARCH, Curtis Salgado didn’t think the slight but 

nagging pain he felt was a big deal. 

“It was an uncomfortable feeling in my back, kind of like 

a pulled muscle,” the veteran blues singer-songwriter said 

months later. “It wasn’t anything alarming. It was nothing.” 

But it was enough for his manager to direct Salgado’s tour 

convoy into an emergency room somewhere in Vermont, 

where doctors discovered his heart was “barely hanging in 

there.” Salgado canceled the rest of his tour and underwent 

quadruple bypass surgery at a hospital in New Hampshire. 

“I told the band, ‘I’ll be back in twenty minutes.’ And I never 

did come back,” he said. “I went into the ER, and I never saw 

the band again until just recently.” 

Salgado rested and recovered for a few months, and his 

comeback show was a big one: a prime-time main-stage set 

on July 4 at the Waterfront Blues Festival in Portland. During 

his time off, he won three 2017 Blues Music Awards, one of 

the genre’s highest honors. 

One of those awards was for Soul Blues Album of the 

Year for The Beautiful Lowdown, Salgado’s ninth album and 

second for blues super-label Alligator Records. Packed with 

eleven Salgado originals and one cover, the album showcases 

the man’s highly listenable take on the blues, where melody 

and modernity aren’t qualities to be avoided but embraced. 

“You’ve got to try for that so the people walk away ... 

humming a tune,” Salgado said. “That’s what you want! That’s 

what Motown did. That’s what the Beatles did. That’s always 

what I’m trying to do, and that’s what writing a song is all 

about.” 

For years, Salgado has been best known for three things: 

His big voice and commitment to the blues, beating cancer 

three times, and exposing John Belushi to the blues while 

Animal House was filming in Eugene and inspiring Belushi’s 

Blues Brothers character. Salgado also spent time leading 

Robert Cray’s band before embarking on a solo career in the 

early ’90s. 

Nearly three decades later, he’s a blues icon and an elder 

statesman of the genre, but Salgado speaks like a man who’s 

still scrapping for respect on the way up. 

“I keep putting out CDs and getting more and more out 

there. I have a bigger fan base now. I have a strong record 

company,” he said. “That’s what it’s about. I’m trying to get my 

(music) played. And I love the idea of songwriting. It’s hard 

to do. It’s a craft. I’ve had to work at it. I’m a late-bloomer is 

what I’m saying. And I’ve gotten better as I’ve gone on.” 

Blues legend Curtis Salgado 

is back on the scene after 

quadruple bypass surgery. 

Listen on Spotify 


115 Shows 

10 Months 

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TICKETS & INFORMATION 

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notebook 

Bibliophile 

Putting the Why in YA 

Eliot Treichel adds gravity 

with his writing for young adults 

interview by Sheila G. Miller 

ON ELIOT TREICHEL’S desk is a quote from Wild writer Cheryl 

Strayed: “Your cause is to write a great book and then to write 

another great book and to keep writing them for as long as you 

can. That is your only cause.” That’s Treichel’s mantra after his 

young adult novel, A Series of Small Maneuvers, won the Oregon 

Book Awards’ readers choice award in April. “It’s a wonderful 

recognition, and I feel really humbled and grateful for it. And it does 

help with confidence,” he said. “Writers are constantly struggling 

with confidence and being able to replicate what you did before.” 

Did you set out to write a YA novel, or 

did it just sort of happen? 

It was something that I set out to do 

in part because when I started the 

book my daughter was about 13. I 

was bringing her from the library and 

buying lots of young adult novels that 

were receiving critical attention and 

being recommended, and I would check 

out some of them and this recurring 

narrative showed up—boy saves girl, 

and that bothered me. That got me 

thinking that I wanted to write a narrative 

that offered an alternative to that, and 

I began also thinking about who I was 

as a reader around that age. I wasn’t a 

strong or natural reader and I didn’t 

gravitate to books, except for at some 

point Gary Paulsen’s novels entered my 

life. They were stories about kids in the 

wilderness and the outdoors, and so 

those two things sort of converged to 

get me to start writing YA. 

Do you find people take YA seriously? 

Or do they think it’s easier to write a 

kids’ book than an adult book? 

I think people do think (it’s easier to 

write YA). I also thought that. I had 

already written a short story collection, 

and the traditional trajectory is you go 

from short story collection to novel, 

and I was really intimidated to write an 

adult novel, for lack of a better term. So 

I thought, ‘Well, I could write a YA novel, 

that’s got to be easier.’ I don’t think it 

was easier. It was just as hard and maybe 

harder because to really put yourself 

back into the mindset of a teenager 

and really empathize with teens today 

is a really challenging thing to do, versus 

putting yourself in an adult mindset, 

which is more relatable. 

What is your writing process like? 

For me it’s more solitary. I have had a few 

writing groups that I’ve sort of dipped in 

and out of and that’s been helpful, but 

really I’ve been doing this long enough 

that I know my own process and I know 

what a book needs. I write mostly alone. 

I’m a drafter—I go through lots of drafts. 

I’m not one who outlines my novel all the 

way through. It’s more of a process of 

discovery while I’m writing. I do have a 

few friends who are my readers I go to 

first as a sounding board—‘Am I heading 

in the right direction, or am I off course?’ 

Did your daughter enjoy the book? 

She claims she liked it. My daughter is a 

really strong reader, much better than I 

am, and she has read more than I have, I 

think. I was a little nervous to let her read 

it—it’s tough for friends and families of 

writers because we are always mining 

real-world experience and mashing them 

up. I gave it to her and I said, ‘If you want 

to read it you can.’ She recognized some 

of her friends in the book and mashups 

of her friends. I stole some things from 

her—my descriptions of high school 

come from my daughter and listening to 

her talk about her days at high school. 

She told me, ‘I realize you understand 

me more than I thought you did,’ so that 

was pretty nice to hear. 

What’s next for you? 

I’m writing another YA novel. It’s set 

in Oregon on the west side of the 

state, where it rains a lot. It’s about a 

kid, a stoner who is trying not to be a 

stoner anymore, who falls in love with a 

runaway who is pregnant, and it is about 

them and the rain. 

I’m also going to put out a free e-book, 

called The River School, that’s a series 

of essays I wrote about becoming a 

whitewater kayak instructor. 


DIGNITY 

Tribes in Transition 

An exhibition of portraits | Opens Oct 6 

1680 E. 15th Avenue, Eugene | natural-history.uoregon.edu 

Samburu Women, Kenya, 1985 © Dana Gluckstein 

You’re Home 

Once you become a Southern Oregon University Raider, 

you’re home. Our supportive campus environment and fierce 

commitment to inclusion and diversity provide limitless 

opportunities for you to reach your fullest potential. 

We offer 35 majors, exceptional faculty with the highest 

degrees in their fields, a beautiful, vibrant campus, and easy 

access to an array of natural wonders. There’s something 

for everyone at Southern Oregon University. 

Call us and arrange a campus tour today. 

SOU.EDU | 855-470-3377

food + drink 

Beerlandia 

Oktoberfest in Oregon 

written by Jeremy Storton 

illustration by Allison Bye 

IT ALL STARTED with a wedding on October 12, 1810. Prince 

Ludwig married Princess Therese and all of Munich, Germany, 

was invited. Concerned with how to entertain so many guests at 

a royal wedding, planners arranged for horse racing … naturally. 

The people loved the horse races and the beer so much, they 

thought, “Hey, let’s do this again next year.” So they did and 

called it Oktoberfest. This annual party became such a hit that 

one week simply wouldn’t do. The decision was to either extend 

it forward into the cooler October weeks or extend it back into 

warmer September. In the following years Oktoberfest began 

in September and ended on the first weekend in October. We 

Americans have a penchant for celebrating holidays from other 

countries, especially when beer is involved (Mardi Gras, Cinco 

De Mayo, St. Patrick’s Day), and Oktoberfest is no exception. 

Oregon is not one to drop the ball where beer is concerned. 

For those of German descent, who have ever been to Germany 

or who just like to drink good beer, you meet the requisite 

criteria to attend Oktoberfest this September. Festival tents 

will go up anywhere in the state where there is beer, especially 

in Portland and Bend. But, for my bier money, I’m heading to 

Mount Angel. Time to pull out the lederhosen and practice 

saying, “Prost!” 


DO YOU KNOW JOE? 

REALLY GOOD WINE 

MADE IN DUNDEE, OREGON 

winebyjoe.com 

Remarkable wines in a chic, urban setting 

open daily 11 am - 5 pm 

ElizabethChambersCellar.com ~ 503-412-9765 

from pinot noir to malbec, experience an outstanding 

collection of oregon wines at eugene’s original winery. 

open daily 12-5 pm 

SilvanRidge.com ~ 541-345-1945

food + drink 

Recipe Card 

recipe courtesy of 

Winchester Inn & Alchemy Restaurant 

& Bar, Ashland 

Vote for Pedro 

Ximénez 

1½ ounces Redemption Rye 

1 ounce Amontillado Sherry 

½ ounce Pedro Ximénez* 

Heavy dash of Angostura bitters 

8-10 dashes of fig tincture 

Luxardo cherry or sliced fig garnish 

In a cocktail mixer, combine 

rye, Amontillado sherry, Pedro 

Ximénez, a heavy dash of 

Angostura bitters and 8-10 

dashes of fig tincture. Stir over 

ice and strain into a cocktail glass. 

Garnish with Luxardo cherry or 

sliced figs. 

*Pedro Ximénez is a sherry made 

from a highly sugar-concentrated 

Spanish wine grape variety grown 

in several Spanish wine regions, but 

most notably in the Denominación 

de Origen of Montilla-Moriles—a 

variety of sherry wine characterized 

by a dark tone. 

Tonya Poitevint Photography 

Rachael Martin, co-owner and winemaker at Red Lily Vineyards, samples Verdejo grapes, which go into 

the winery’s Stargazer Lily. 

A Touch of Spain 

in Southern Oregon 

written by Carrie Wynkoop of Cellar 503 

FOR RACHAEL MARTIN, winemaker and co-owner of Red Lily Vineyards, 

winemaking is truly a family affair. Rachael’s husband, Les, worked in the 

hospitality industry for years, and on their frequent travels to Europe they 

fell in love with Spanish Tempranillo. 

When they found the future home of Red Lily just outside of Jacksonville, 

they knew what would come next. In 2004, they planted their first 

Tempranillo grapes, and shortly thereafter Rachael, Les and their two kids 

moved to the small town. 

Red Lily Vineyards—named for the rare red flower found in the 

neighboring Siskiyou Mountains—opened in 2011 and focuses on the 

Tempranillo grape, which grows beautifully in Southern Oregon. Their 

wines reflect their passion for Tempranillo as well as their passion for 

family. They’ve named wines after their children including Life of Riley, a 

Tempranillo blend named for their son Riley; and Lily Girl, a Tempranillo 

rosé, named for their daughter Lily. In the last few years they’ve expanded 

their lineup to include other Spanish varietals, including the unusual 

Verdejo grape, which they believe is “summer in a bottle.” 

On the bank of Applegate Creek, visitors can taste in the beautifully 

designed tasting room or wandering along the creek. In summer, Red Lily 

features a weekly outdoor concert series. 

The 1859 Wine Club is excited to feature Red Lily Vineyards’ 2015 

Stargazer Lily Verdejo in September. 

Join the 1859 Wine Club to explore more Oregon wines at 1859magazine.com/wineclub 


food + drink 

CRAVINGS 

ROOFTOP SEATING 

Squeeze out the last bits of summer 

at Revolution Hall’s rooftop deck. The 

Roof Deck, which has a full bar and 

an unobstructed view of the Portland 

skyline and nearby West Hills, is on 

top of Washington High School, which 

closed in 1981. With twenty-four beers 

on tap, sangria and signature cocktails, 

this is the spot to soak up whatever sun 

Portland has left this year. 

1300 SE STARK STREET 

PORTLAND 

revolutionhall.com 

FISH & CHIPS 

Bring cash—Bowpicker Fish & Chips 

operates out of a dryland fishing boat 

and the food is so good it can afford to be 

picky about its payments. This restaurant 

serves just one thing—beautiful chunks 

of beer-battered albacore tuna on a 

bed of steak fries. Located across from 

Columbia River Maritime Museum, 

Bowpicker is open weather permitting 

and does sometimes run out of fish. 

1634 DUANE STREET 

ASTORIA 

bowpicker.com 

Gastronomy 

Wine Spirit & Archive 

written by Julie Lee 

photography by David Reamer 

WHETHER FOR AN INDUSTRY professional or a novice who simply wants 

to learn how to swirl, sniff, sip and swallow, Wine Spirit & Archive offers 

everything from beginners’ basics to certifications. Wine Spirit & Archive’s 

owner and teaching professional, Mimi Martin, started the Portland-based 

business nearly a decade ago after spending time at New York University in 

food studies. “Wine doesn’t have to be intimidating,” she said. “I feel lucky to 

do what I do, putting a variety of wine in front of so many people. The more 

you learn about it, the deeper it gets, and it’s always changing, so I have to 

change course.” 

215 SE 9th Ave #204 

PORTLAND 

wineandspiritarchive.com 

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Mimi Martin, owner of Wine Spirit & 

Archive, instructs a class. Martin shows a wine label to attendees. 

A student inspects the aroma of a white wine. 

BREAKFAST 

Bend’s food scene is constantly evolving. 

But the favorites remain, and one of 

those is McKay Cottage. The 1916 

bungalow once sat in Drake Park, but 

was moved in the 1970s. Today it offers 

breakfast and lunch for locals in the 

know—biscuits, bacon and benedicts 

are the best bets here, but you can’t go 

wrong with anything. Even the coffee 

tastes better. 

62910 OB RILEY ROAD 

BEND 

themckaycottage.com 

HAMBURGERS 

Stanich’s is a Portland staple—first 

opening in 1949, this family joint on NE 

Fremont Street gets consistent accolades 

for its old-school, thin patty burgers 

that are big on taste. An unassuming 

sports bar with walls covered in sports 

memorabilia, this is a place to grab the 

“World’s Greatest” burger and long for 

the days of Portland past. 

4915 NE FREMONT STREET 

PORTLAND 

stanichs.com 


food + drink 

BEST PLACES FOR 

PIZZA 

MEZZA LUNA PIZZERIA 

New York-style pizza available by the slice 

or in full pie. This low-key spot offers tons 

of options, including plenty of vegetarian 

pizzas, like the Stinky Garden—spinach, 

mushrooms, gorgonzola and mozzarella 

cheeses on a garlic and olive oil base. 

Gluten-free slices, as well as salads and 

calzones the size of your head, are also 

available. 

David Solomon 

3 LOCATIONS: 

933 Pearl Street 

EUGENE 

2776 Shadow View Drive 

EUGENE 

115 South Fifth Street 

SPRINGFIELD 

mezzalunapizzeria.com 

AMERICAN DREAM 

This funky top spot has been around (and 

popular) since 1989 and these days has two 

Corvallis locations, three cocktail bars and 

a sister brewery (Sky High Brewing). The 

Corvegas has pesto, pepperoni, roasted 

red peppers and artichokes topped with 

fresh mozzarella, or go full veg with the 

Bill Walton—mushrooms, black olives, 

green peppers, red onions, fresh tomatoes 

and zucchini. Bonus: spiked slushies at the 

on-site cocktail bars. 

2 LOCATIONS: 

2525 NW Monroe Ave. 

CORVALLIS 

214 SW Second Street 

CORVALLIS 

adpizza.com 

APIZZA SCHOLLS 

Portlanders know this is the spot for the 

best slice in the city—it’s on pretty much 

every publication’s “best of” list. Apizza 

Scholls may be one of the best pizzas in the 

Pacific Northwest, with Neapolitan-style 

pies and perfect thin crust cooked hot and 

fast. Apizza Scholls often runs out of its 

signature dough and limits diners to three 

toppings. Trust us, the rules are worth it. 

4741 SE Hawthorne Blvd. 

PORTLAND 

apizzascholls.com 

Solomon’s at Tetherow offers a variety of regionally focused dishes. 

Dining 

Solomon’s 

written by Julie Lee 

THE BEST OF BEND has been rolled into one spanking new destination location: 

Solomon’s at Tetherow. With breathtaking scenery, regionally focused dishes, 

phenomenal wine and artsy cocktails, Solomon’s is destined to become another 

happening local hot spot, alongside sister restaurant, The Row, which packs 

people in nightly. Head chef Rian Mulligan hails from Blacksmith, a legendary 

Central Oregon foodie destination, and is focused on offering upscale, seasonally 

targeted dining that beckons visitors and locals alike to head up the hill from 

downtown Bend. With just thirty-six seatings nightly Wednesday through Sunday, 

reservations are highly recommended. 

61240 Skyline Ranch Road 

BEND 

tetherow.com 


home + design 

Farm to Table 

Buried Treasure 

Growing potatoes in the Klamath Basin 

written by Sophia McDonald 

photography by Micah Whaley 

FROM THE TIME Dan Chin was knee high to a 

grasshopper, he knew he wanted to be a farmer. As a 

child he loved putting on his cowboy hat and boots and 

exploring his family’s potato fields near Klamath Falls. 

His was a future that retained some of the great joys 

of childhood—days under blue skies spent digging in 

the dirt for buried treasure. There’s more responsibility 

now, of course. The family business, Wong Potatoes, 

farms 4,900 acres of land, which means managing 

plenty of people and red tape. But he’s never lost his 

excitement for growing food. 

Chin’s grandfather, Sam Wong, was the first member 

of his family to farm in the United States. He and his 

family emigrated from China to San Francisco in the 

early 1900s. “He was from southern China, and they 

grew potatoes and rice there, so he knew how to grow 

potatoes,” Chin said. “He came to this country looking 

for the land of opportunity.” 

He didn’t find it in California’s central valley or 

western Nevada. For a while he gave up on growing 

potatoes and opened a Chinese restaurant. Then he 

heard people were having some luck with the crop in 

the Klamath Basin. “He rented some land and started 

growing potatoes and did really good,” Chin said. “That 

was in the 1930s and we’ve been growing potatoes in 

the Klamath Basin ever since.” 

Like his grandfather and father before him, Chin starts 

dropping pieces of cut-up potato in the ground in late 

April or early May. The Klamath Basin sits at a relatively 

high elevation, giving it a higher risk of frost than other 

regions. This can be an advantage, too—pests 

don’t like hot days and cold nights, so they’re 

less of a problem. 

Dan Chin checks the soil for moisture and digs 

up a few potatoes. He says they look like they 

are almost ready for harvest. 


home + design 

Potatoes start coming out of the ground in September. 

They’re stored in large cellars kept at a constant 42 degrees. Air 

is pumped in, and light—which fosters sprouting and aging—is 

kept out. 

Chin’s father had the job of modernizing and mechanizing 

the growing operation. One of Chin’s major contributions has 

been shifting about half of the farm to organic production. As 

his children got older and became dedicated to feeding their 

kids organic food, he could see firsthand that the market was 

changing. “I like the natural aspect of organic as well,” he said. 

Even so, he remains a champion of biotechnology. “Everyone 

thinks biotech crops are bad for you, but they’re a lot safer than 

putting certain chemicals on,” Chin said. “The stuff they’re 

coming out with now is pretty amazing. It’s going to be the wave 

of the future.” 

Chin’s other big change was looking beyond the “big three” 

potatoes—Russets, Round Red and yellows—and introduced 

new varieties to the farm. Among them are white Klamath 

Pearls, purple Huckleberry Gold, Purple Fiesta and heirloom 

fingerlings such as Russian Banana and Amarosa. 

Potatoes are often a commodity crop, grown for high 

yield, appearance and processing ability. But Chin believed in 

getting outside of that mindset. He developed a different set of 

parameters for picking a potato: “It’s got to look good, it’s got to 

taste good, and it’s got to cook good. If you look at varieties like 

that you’re going to get repeat consumers.” 

So far that model seems to be working. Chin’s fresh spuds 

go all over the world, from New Seasons stores in Oregon to 

markets in Taiwan. Even though business is good, Chin’s children 

don’t share his desire for farm life. As a result, he’s considering 

transitioning the company to his employees when he’s ready to 

retire. If they take it on, buried treasure will continue coming out 

of this land for a long time. 

Idaho reigns supreme in potato production, but Oregon ranks 

fifth overall. It has about 105 farms with an annual economic 

impact of $1.2 billion. “Eighty-three percent are processed into 

something,” said Bill Brewer, president and CEO of Oregon 

Potato Commission. “It could be French fries, it could be hash 

browns, it could be dehydrated products or potato chips. About 

3 percent are grown to be replanted for seed potatoes, so that 

leaves 14 percent that are fresh table stock.” 

Potatoes are perhaps best in side dishes, where their flavor 

can really shine through. “I adore the humble potato,” said 

Jeff Emerson, executive chef of Buckman Public House. “The 

ubiquitous, overlooked, over-sauced vehicle for ketchup, ranch 

and gravy is an incredibly dynamic and seasonal vegetable.” His 

recipe for poached and buttered potatoes epitomizes a simple 

yet flavorful approach to cooking with them. 

Cook sliced spuds, then stack them into cairn-like piles with the 

recipe for Yukon gold potatoes with smoked trout roe, courtesy 

of chef Jonathan Berube of Portland’s Radar. Or crush and fry 

them á la Jacques Pépin (who popularized this preparation) with 

Joshua McFadden’s potatoes with crispy herbs and garlic. The 

recipe comes from Six Seasons: A New Way with Vegetables, the 

new cookbook from the chef at Portland’s Ava Gene’s. 

FROM TOP Wong Potatoes, fried, are plated on a bed of basil and 

seasoned with chili powder and dill. The dish is served with a port 

wine and a side of plain Greek yogurt topped with fresh chives. 

The farm's irrigation lines run at sunset. 


Classic Buttered Potatoes 

with Parsley 

PORTLAND / Buckman Public House 

Jeff Emerson 

SERVES 6 

Oregon Recipes 

The Humble Potato 

Yukon Gold Potatoes with Black 

Sea Salt, Smoked Trout Roe, 

Crème Fraiche and Dill 

PORTLAND / Radar 

Jonathan Berube 

SERVES 4-6 

3-4 pounds Yukon gold potatoes, 

similarly sized 

Black sea salt 

4 ounces smoked trout roe 

1 bunch fresh dill (pluches only) 

1 cup crème fraiche (see recipe 

below) 

FOR CRÈME FRAICHE 

Combine 7 parts heavy whipping cream 

with 1 part buttermilk. Whisk and cover 

with cheesecloth. Allow to stand at room 

temperature overnight. The following 

day, whisk again and then refrigerate 

until ready to use. 

FOR POTATOES 

In 8 quarts of heavily salted water with 

thyme, bay leaf and peppercorns, start 

potatoes in cold water and bring up to 

a boil. Immediately reduce to a simmer 

and, for approximately 8 to 10 minutes, 

cook until fork-tender. Carefully remove 

from water and allow to cool on a sheet 

tray in the refrigerator. This can be done 

a day ahead. 

Slice the potatoes uniformly and panfry. 

Remove from oil onto paper towel 

and immediately season with salt. Build 

concentric rings of potatoes that grow 

progressively smaller, topping each layer 

with small amounts of dill, crème fraiche 

and roe. When the tower is complete, 

add another layer of dill, crème fraiche 

and roe, then a small amount of black 

salt. 

Serve immediately. The hot potatoes 

will begin melting the crème fraiche 

immediately. 

Crushed and Fried Potatoes 

with Crispy Herbs and Garlic 

Excerpted from Six Seasons by Joshua 

McFadden (Artisan Books) 

SERVES 4 

Buttered potatoes with parsley 

from Buckman Public House. 

1½ pounds small medium-starch 

potatoes, such as Yukon Gold 

Extra-virgin olive oil, for frying 

2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 

1 tablespoon fresh rosemary leaves 

1 teaspoon thyme leaves 

Kosher salt and freshly ground 

black pepper 

¼ teaspoon dried chile flakes 

4 lemon wedges 

Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Spread 

the potatoes on a baking sheet and 

bake until fully tender when poked with 

a knife, about 30 minutes depending on 

how big they are. 

Let the potatoes cool enough that you 

can handle them, then crush each one 

with your palm or the back of a pan. You 

want to create a patty shape, with lots of 

craggy surface area to crisp up in the hot 

oil. If you have larger potatoes, tear them 

up into smaller pieces after smashing. 

Heat ½ inch of olive oil in a large 

skillet until quite hot. Put a corner of a 

potato into the oil to test the heat—if 

it sizzles nicely, the oil is ready. Working 

in batches, fry the potatoes until nicely 

browned on one side. Flip and cook until 

both sides are browned, about 5 minutes 

total, but about 30 seconds before the 

potatoes are done, toss in some of the 

garlic, rosemary and thyme. Transfer 

the potatoes to paper towels to drain. 

Continue frying the potatoes, scraping 

out the bits of garlic and herbs between 

batches so it doesn’t burn. 

Season with salt and black pepper 

and the chile flakes. Serve with a lemon 

wedge for each diner. 

2 pounds new potatoes (whatever the 

farmers market has)—poached, 

cooled and cut into ½-inch thick 

discs 

¾ cup water 

½ cup cold pastured butter, cut 

into cubes 

½ cup rough chopped parsley 

Zest of a half lemon 

Sea salt, preferably flaked 

6 or 7 garlic cloves 

Peppercorns 

Fresh thyme 

Rinse the potatoes to remove any excess 

dirt, then place in a 4-quart sauce pot so 

they cover the bottom evenly. Cover in water 

until they are full submerged. Add 6 or 7 

garlic cloves, a handful of peppercorns and 

a bunch of fresh thyme, as well as salt to 

taste. Like cooking pasta, don’t be afraid to 

season the water—for 3 quarts of water, 3 or 

4 tablespoons of salt should work. 

Over medium-high heat, slowly bring the 

pot to just below a boil, keeping the water 

temperature between 185 and 200 degrees 

to avoid overcooking. This will take longer 

than the rolling boil, but the results are far 

superior. Allow to simmer for approximately 

30 minutes, when potatoes fall off a knife but 

remain completely intact. Cool potatoes on a 

sheet pan until they’re ready to use. 

In a medium sauté pan or cast iron skillet, 

add potatoes and water over mediumlow 

heat. Bring the water just up to a boil, 

occasionally stirring the potatoes and being 

careful to not break or smash the potatoes 

while stirring. When the water has reduced 

by about two-thirds, stir in the butter. Reduce 

heat slightly. The idea is to slowly emulsify 

the butter into the starchy water and create 

a creamy sauce. When the butter is fully 

incorporated, quickly stir in the parsley and 

lemon zest. Pour potatoes into serving dish 

and sprinkle with crunchy flake salt. 

Get all our recipes at 

1859oregonmagazine.com/recipes 


YOU SAY 

POTATO. 

I SAY 

POTAHTO. 

WE BOTH SAY SOUR CREAM. 

PURE & SIMPLE DARIGOLD SOUR CREAM 

has that rich, ever-so-slightly tangy taste. 

It’s perfect on nachos, potatoes and dessert 

treats. Try it and taste the local difference.

home + design 

Oregon Roasted Potatoes 

Thor Erickson 

SERVES 4-6 

4 pounds Oregon Yukon gold potatoes, 

peeled and cut into sixths 

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 

1 teaspoon rosemary leaves, finely 

chopped 

3 medium cloves garlic, minced 

Freshly ground black pepper 

1 teaspoon fresh parsley leaves, minced 

4 tablespoons kosher salt 

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Heat 2 

quarts of water in a large pot over high heat 

until boiling. 

Add 2 tablespoons kosher salt to the 

water, add the potatoes and return to a boil, 

then reduce to a simmer and cook until a 

fork is easily inserted into one of the pieces 

of potato, roughly 10 minutes of simmering. 

Meanwhile, combine olive oil with 

rosemary, garlic and freshly ground 

black pepper in a small cast iron skillet 

or saucepan and heat over medium heat. 

Cook, stirring and shaking pan until garlic 

turns golden, about 2 minutes. Immediately 

strain oil through a fine-mesh strainer set 

in a large metal or glass bowl. Reserve the 

oil and garlic and rosemary mixture. 

When potatoes are cooked, drain and 

let them rest in the pot for a minute or so 

to allow them to dry off a bit. Transfer to 

bowl with the oil, season to taste with salt 

and pepper, and toss to coat, shaking bowl 

roughly, until a thick layer of paste with the 

consistency of mashed potato has built up 

on the potato chunks. 

Transfer potatoes to a large baking 

sheet and separate them, spreading them 

evenly. Transfer to pre-heated oven and 

roast, without moving, for 20 minutes. 

Using a metal spatula to release any stuck 

potatoes, shake pan and carefully turn 

potatoes. Continue roasting until potatoes 

are deep brown and crisp all over, turning 

and shaking them a few times during 

cooking, about 30 minutes. 

Transfer potatoes to a large bowl 

and toss with the reserved garlic and 

rosemary mixture and minced parsley. 

Season with more salt and pepper to taste. 

Serve immediately. 


home + design 

Home Grown Chef 

Spud Boy 

written by Thor Erickson 

photography by Ashlee Pierce 

POTATOES HAVE A bad reputation. 

Once the kings of sustenance and preservers 

of civilizations, potatoes in modern society 

have been viewed as starchy carbs that 

aren’t good for us. Potatoes have been used 

and abused as the vehicle for bright and 

shiny things—French fries with ketchup, 

mashed potatoes with gravy, chips and dip. 

Like the bassist in a '70s super group, the 

potato is often upstaged by the colorful lead 

singer. The spud is in fact a vegetable, and 

can be wonderful. If selected and prepared 

with care, the potato can be worthy of a 

solo career. 

I remember digging around in my 

grandparents’ front yard as a kid, making 

mud pies. I dug up these small round 

objects. My grandmother quickly took 

them and rinsed them off, claiming the red 

potatoes I found were buried treasure. That 

evening, she cooked the dozen or so small 

potatoes as part of our dinner. They were 

like no other potato I’d eaten in my entire 

six years of life. “They taste like dirt—good 

dirt,” I said. 

Potatoes fresh from the ground 

are simply the best. If they sit around 

awhile, however, they lose the earthy 

life that yields great flavor. I recommend 

purchasing locally grown organic potatoes 

at a farmers market or a market that 

sells local produce. Good, fresh potatoes 

will smell like the rich soil in which they 

grew. They’ll be firm, free of black spots 

on the skin and green discoloration on 

the interior. This discoloration is called 

"solanine" and is caused by exposure to 

light. Potatoes with solanine can cause 

slight digestive discomfort and should 

be avoided. 

To me, the best-tasting potato dishes 

are the simple ones—capitalizing on their 

great flavor should be the goal. 

Here is my recipe for roasted Oregon 

potatoes. Converting the starches in the 

potatoes to simple sugars is the key to a 

crispy, golden-browned potato. 


home + design 

Take Risks 

Bold moves equal big impact 

in two bathroom remodels 

written by Melissa Dalton 

Laurie Black 

The architect combined a bedroom with 

the existing bathroom to create a suite. 

North Portland: A spa-like retreat 

inspired by world travel 

IT WAS A 1909 COTTAGE in a great neighborhood. Yet a 

year after buying the two-story house, Erin Gallagher and 

Lindsay Stover were stuck living on the first floor. Although the 

previous homeowners had remodeled the kitchen and added 

a bedroom downstairs, the upper floor was untouched. Upon 

purchase, the new homeowners discovered birds living in the 

attic, a roof that needed replacing, leaky vinyl windows and 

a total lack of insulation, which made the entire upper floor 

freezing in the winter and blazing hot in the summer. "It just 

didn't feel good to be up there," Gallagher said. After enlisting 

an ecologist to free the birds, the couple lived downstairs while 

they concocted a plan to reclaim the house. 

Along with the structural issues, there were also functional 

problems, including three cramped bedrooms and a small hall 

bath, the latter of which had degraded '80s-era finishes. The 

couple sought to connect their main bedroom to a bathroom 

retreat, a place they could escape to rather than avoid. Enter 

architect Michael Howells, of Howells Architecture and 

Design, for an overhaul. Rather than installing a dormer and 

increasing the construction budget, he co-opted a 

bedroom and combined it with the existing bathroom 

to form a walk-in closet and a private bathroom for 

a true suite ensemble. It was a strategy of "fitting it 


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As summer comes to a close and you start preparing your home for the school year or holiday guests, consider 

California Closets as a partner in getting your home organized, with custom-designed furniture for every area of your home. Visit one 

of our Design Studio locations to learn how we can work together or to schedule your complimentary design consultation. 

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PORTLAND 1235 W. Burnside St. TUALATIN 18862 SW Teton Ave. BEND 937 NW Newport Ave.

home + design 

in like a puzzle rather than adding to the 

house," he said. 

The centerpiece of the new room is a 

custom red cedar soaking tub tucked under 

the sloping roofline and capped with a 

skylight. It sits in a wet room that includes 

a rain showerhead. The setup was inspired 

by Howells' recent trip to Japan, where 

he encountered the custom of showering 

before soaking in a relaxing bath. "[The 

couple] were interested in relaxation and 

something spa-like, so my response was 

to introduce them to this other way of 

bathing," Howells said. The bath is strictly 

a soaking tub, meaning it's not intended to 

be used with soaps or shampoos. 

For the finishes, the couple rejected 

anything too cold, bright or shiny, instead 

opting for a more natural palette that 

"let the materials speak for themselves." 

Howells clad the room in a rich blue tile— 

an application that reminded him of the 

Blue Grotto in Italy—for an immersive 

experience. "It makes you feel held," 

Gallagher said of the tile's effect. "Each 

piece is unique so it has this rippling feel 

to it." A custom cherry vanity topped by 

a concrete counter with inset sinks adds 

tactile elegance. Lighting designed by 

Cedar & Moss and matte bronze plumbing 

fixtures deftly underscore the scheme. 

After being exiled from the upper floor 

for so long, the couple were ready for the 

relaxation inspired by their new digs. "The 

idea of having a mini-spa in your house is 

pretty alluring," Gallagher said. "A place 

where you can come home from work and 

be pampered." The bathroom 

provides just such a spot, for 

which they're grateful. "We still 

pinch ourselves." 

The custom red cedar soaking tub sits 

in a wet room with a rain showerhead. 

Laurie Black 

"The idea of having a mini-spa in your house is pretty alluring. 

A place where you can come home from work and be pampered." 

— Erin Gallagher 


Ventura table, $ 2599; Cora chairs, $ 399; Copenhagen bookcases, $ 1099 each. 

380 Northwest 13th Avenue, Portland 

roomandboard.com

home + design 

Southwest Hills: Vision rescues 

a Colonial stuck in the past 

Looking back on her purchase of a 1962 Colonial 

in Portland's Southwest Hills, Britney Renner vividly 

remembers the distinctive decor on the third floor. "Each 

room was a different color carpet with matching wallpaper," 

she said. She describes a particularly memorable pattern 

featuring illustrations of the Raggedy Ann doll on repeat, 

paired with blue shag carpet. "It was so '70s," she said with 

a laugh. The nearby principle bathroom was exempt from 

the carpet treatment, but the years had not been kind to 

its wallpaper, linoleum and tile either. Rather than live in a 

time capsule, Renner collaborated with local construction 

company, Clarkbuilt, to combine the two rooms into a 

principle bathroom suite that would better suit this century. 

As a professional event designer who routinely executes 

stage sets and styles events for corporate clients, Renner is 

comfortable with the design process. "I love design so much 

and that's what I do for a living," she said. "It was very easy 

for me to go in the house and envision exactly how I wanted 

it to look." For the principle bathroom, she visualized a 

primarily neutral space with strategic textural accents, 

including walnut, black metal and brass. "I wanted it to be a 

little masculine," she said. 

Working with a standard 8-foot ceiling height, her first 

goal was to instill a sense of grandeur. Installing floor-toceiling 

subway tile on all four walls delivered the desired 

effect. "My M.O. with any sort of tile is to go grand with it," 

Renner said. "I knew I wanted every inch, from ceiling to 

floor, in tile." 

Another key factor to the redesign was a careful balance 

of modern and traditional elements, for which Renner likes 

to follow an 80/20 guideline. For instance, 80 percent of the 

room's components might tend traditional while 20 percent 

read modern, or vice versa. Such a ratio creates interesting 

visual contrast. To that end, she paired the traditional 

subway tile with striking contemporary vanities—the 

Suspend Media Console from retailer CB2, composed of 

black metal legs, a stone top and Acacia wood fronts laid 

in a chevron pattern. Renner fell in love with their look and 

asked Clarkbuilt to modify them with vessel sinks. Clarkbuilt 

then fashioned the expansive mirrors, measuring 4 feet by 

4 feet, and dropped the borders down to the sink counter, 

which further enhances the room. They also mounted the 

brass faucet and Schoolhouse Electric sconces directly to 

the glass for a "floating look," Renner said. 

All in all, the finished room ended up being something 

of a revelation, even to the design-savvy owner. "The sense 

of space in there is just very relaxing," said Alex Briggs, the 

project manager at Clarkbuilt who worked with Renner. 

"When they came in and saw it finished for the first time, it 

just had a 'wow' factor that you can't always accomplish in 

historic homes." 

Crosby Dove 

Floor-to-ceiling subway tile 

creates a sense of grandeur. 


home + design 


DIY: Bathroom Vanity 

Tips for converting a dresser into a bathroom vanity 

BRITNEY RENNER'S FAVORITE detail in her bathroom renovation is the customized sink vanity. 

Converting a dresser or console into a sink cabinet can be a DIY project for crafty homeowners, as the 

skill level and tools it requires varies depending on the overall design. We asked contractor Alex Briggs 

to give us some tips. 

1. 

CHOOSE THE SINK STYLE FIRST. 

There are different styles of sinks, Briggs said, 

including the vessel sink, undermount, and the 

drop-in. The vessel sink typically sits on top of the counter. 

"A drop-in sink requires a cut-out that you drop the sink 

into. It has a flange or lip that goes around, whereas a true 

undermount is something that adheres underneath the 

countertop," Briggs said. A vessel sink is the easiest to work 

with for this project. 

2. 

PICK A FAUCET, TOO. 

Some faucets will mount directly to the sink basin, 

whereas others attach to the counter and need 

clearance between the basin and the wall. Other styles, 

like Renner's, are installed directly in the wall. Identify the 

faucet early to ensure the cabinet will have sufficient space 

for your combo of sink and faucet. Briggs estimates you'll 

need at least 20 inches of depth for the cabinet. 

3. 

CABINET CONSTRUCTION MATTERS. 

"If you choose something flimsy, you're going to 

probably have to spend some time beefing up that 

cabinet," Briggs said. Look at the construction carefully 

and opt for a piece that's well-built. Also, you will have to 

modify the interior of it to accommodate the plumbing 

components. Something with an open cavity, as opposed to 

drawers, will be easier to adapt. 

4. 

DON'T FORGET THE FINISH. 

Think about how the cabinet's finish will wear in 

a bathroom's damp environment—the tougher it 

is, the better. Briggs recommends applying a marine-grade 

varnish for moisture protection. 

Customize your space by turning 

a favorite dresser into a bathroom vanity. 


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home + design 

Products for a Natural 

Modern Bathroom 

Quartertwenty is an architectural 

and hardware designer based out 

of a studio in Portland. We like 

their streamlined collection of 

bath hardware cut from 10-guage 

steel, including The Holy Roller, 

a toilet paper holder that "looks 

great even when empty!" 

qtr20.com 

Indigo Traders, a Portland shop and online 

store, calls the traditional Turkish bath towel its 

signature product, which it sources from a family 

of skilled weavers in Turkey. The flat-woven towel 

is lightweight, spun from cotton, linen or silk, and 

loved for its absorbency and softness. 

indigotraders.com 

Adorn the sink or shower with a 

bar of handmade, cold-pressed 

soap from Carlton's Rough Cut 

Soap Company. Made from allnatural 

or organic ingredients 

when possible, there are many 

scents, from the sweet Dandelion 

to the herbal Citrus Sage to the 

floral Lavender Cedar Wood. 

roughcutsoapco.com 

"I've used Heath in almost every project I've ever done, 

and I've been a Heath nut for many years," architect 

Michael Howells said. He loves the California-based 

Heath Ceramics tile for its handmade quality and the 

depth of the glazes. The Classic Field collection comes 

in eighteen shapes and sizes, making it a versatile 

choice for any bathroom project. 

heathceramics.com 


“Laura and Natalie are the two you want in your 

corner as you navigate finding, negotiating and 

ultimately purchasing your home. The process can 

be trying in the best of times, for us the difficulty 

was compounded by us living 500 miles away 

during the entire process. Laura and Natalie more 

than picked up the slack and took on all the little 

bits and bobs we weren't able to do from afar. I 

give these two my highest recommendation and 

encourage you to give them a call.” 

—B.H. 

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mind + body 

To the Extreme 

Chef Gregory Gourdet takes his 

healthy lifestyle to the next level 

written by Mackenzie Wilson 

photography by Andy Batt 

GREGORY GOURDET doesn’t have his 

own cooking show on television, but he’s 

as close to a celebrity as a chef can get. In 

the past four years, the 41-year-old, who 

lives and works in Portland, has been on 

the “best of” chef radar for the Northwest 

food scene. His innovative use of local 

ingredients at Departure, where he is the 

executive chef, has earned him accolades 

including “Chef of the Year” from the 

Oregon Department of Agriculture in 

2013 and Eater Portland in 2014. The 

James Beard Foundation named him a 

semifinalist for Best Chef: Northwest and 

he took runner-up on season twelve of 

Bravo’s hit series Top Chef in 2015. 

Originally from Brooklyn, New York, 

Gourdet moved to Portland in 2008 and 

made a monumental shift in his way of 

life. He openly discusses his struggles with 

addiction which in the past kept him up for 

days at a time searching for his next high. 

Now, he channels those urges into creating 

the healthiest version of himself possible. 

“It felt very empowering to be living my life 

free of drugs and alcohol,” Gourdet said. “I 

wanted all other aspects of my life to reflect 

that feeling.” 

Gourdet is a long-distance trail runner. 

He regularly runs 18 miles in the Columbia 

Gorge before a thirteen-hour shift at 

Departure, which serves modern Asian 

cuisine. An admitted workaholic, it’s not 

easy for Gourdet to find time to exercise, 

but he carves out space because it fuels 

him physically and mentally. The time he 

spends running on trails translates into 

creativity in the kitchen. “I’m very much 

inspired by nature, the changing of the 

seasons and the solitude found in the quiet, 

grand woods, forests, mountain tops and 

beaches of Oregon,” Gourdet said. What 

he puts in his body counters the impact of 

being almost obsessively active. “If I go for 

a long run I know I need lots of protein to 

rebuild torn leg muscles. If I go to hot yoga, 

I know I need lots of water and juices to 

rehydrate and revitalize,” Gourdet said. 

He describes himself as an extreme 

label reader who eats only whole foods— 

meaning nothing processed, filled with 

additives or preservatives makes it onto his 

plate. “Professionally I taste everything I 

cook, but my personal diet is based on lean 

proteins such as birds and fish as well as 

nuts, seeds, fruits and vegetables,” he said. 

Gourdet has played a key role in Portland’s 

food boom. He’s helped open restaurants, 

been an executive chef and most recently, 

opened a second Departure location in 

Denver, Colorado. To call him a busy guy 

would be a massive understatement. “You 

know, I’m tired from life,” Gourdet said, 

“but every time I go to a doctor, my scores 

are great: my cholesterol is great, my blood 

pressure is great, so that’s amazing.” 


mind + body 

Gregory Gourdet 

Chef 

Age: 41 

Born: Brooklyn, New York 

Residence: Portland 

WORKOUT 

Gourdet is a long-distance trail 

runner, hot yoga devotee and follows 

a CrossFit training program. To heal 

injuries due to exercise, he uses 

acupuncture and massage therapy. 

NUTRITION 

Sticking mostly to a Paleo diet, 

Gourdet does not eat gluten, dairy 

or red meat. He seeks healthy fat, 

usually in the form of nut butters, 

good cholesterol and lean meats. 

Gourdet’s go-tos are chicken and fish, 

nuts, berries, fresh juices, dates, leafy 

greens, avocado, eggs, kimchi and 

other fermented foods. 

INSPIRATION 

Inspired by anyone who knows more 

about something than he does, 

Gourdet recognizes he has his own 

talents but finds inspiration in the 

people he meets on a daily basis. 

He’s always looking for a different 

perspective on life. It could be 

through artwork given to him by his 

5-year-old niece, how a farmer he 

works with gets creative with growing, 

or the latest dish posted on social 

media by his culinary mentors. 

UPCOMING EVENTS TO SEE 

CHEF GOURDET: 

• Feast Portland—Smoked: 

September 16 

feastportland.com 

• Summers’ End Vegan Dinner at 

Departure: September 19 

departureportland.com/blog/ 

departures-summer-end-vegan-dinner 

• Culinary Breeding Network 

Variety Showcase at The Nines 

Hotel: October 2 

culinarybreedingnetwork.com/events. 

html 


artist in residence 

Portland 

Pin-Ups 

Mike Long runs 

the only studio 

in the Northwest 

that specializes in 

pin-up shoots. 

Building self-confidence, 

one photo shoot at a time 

written by Viki Eierdam 

photography and artwork by Mike Long 

FOR A MAN WHO spends his days evoking a 

bygone era, Mike Long is a visionary. Originally 

from England, he ran Europe’s largest touch-up 

department, digitally enhancing images well before 

digital cameras became a household staple. 

Now, nearly three decades later and through a 

series of chance encounters, Long is the owner of 

Portland Pin-Ups—the only studio in the Northwest 

specializing in classic 1950s-style pin-up shoots. 

“I was involved in scanning prints from all over 

the world. Digital didn’t exist. It was all film,” 

Long said. “It wasn’t easy to take pictures of the 

world and enhance them digitally back then, 

but I loved it.” 

While still living in England, Long 

attended a friend’s wedding and spent his 

time bending the ear of the professional 

photographer. From that encounter, Long 

became his assistant. He apprenticed the old- 

fashioned way and, from 1993 to 1995, learned 

about lighting, posing people and how to establish 

a rapport with the happy couple and the wedding 

party. It wasn’t until his third year that he 

was allowed behind the camera and was 

still carefully supervised by his mentor. 



After relocating to Portland with his 

wife and first son by way of San Francisco 

in 2007, Long met another person who 

would change the trajectory of his life— 

Cherry Dollface, a professional pin-up 

model. She shared her world of vintage 

style and poses with him. Portland Pin- 

Ups was born in early 2008. 

Working against a white screen and 

later adding background imagery, Long 

occupies an intimate studio of less 

than 1,000 square feet in the North 

Pearl District of Portland. His sessions 

aren’t timed but generally run two to 

three hours with the end result being 

a collection of the best ten to twenty 

portraits. Former clients round out 

his creative team of hairstylists and 

makeup artists. 

Over the past ten years, he’s found his 

client base is predominantly married 

women with demanding jobs and, 

possibly, a child or two. They rarely treat 

themselves and a session with Portland 

Pin-Ups is designed to be an experience. 

Long is well-known throughout the 

Northwest, though women also come to 

his studio from California and the East 

Coast. Some of his techniques can be 

mimicked, but Long’s attention to detail, 

passion for researching traditional pinup 

poses and creating his own, and the 

respect he shows each of his clients 

cannot be learned. 

In a world fraught with self-criticism, 

Long spends his days bringing out the 

best in ladies with an inspiring tagline 

he truly believes—every woman is a 

bombshell. At a pre-session, he and his 

client have coffee and chat to establish 

trust, learn what kind of style she’s 

interested in and the general theme she 

wants portrayed in her photos. 

“The hair and makeup girls are here 

on session day so we laugh, have fun, 



we’re joking around, it becomes fun. I 

spend five to ten minutes before taking 

photos to give tips (and) ask how they’re 

most comfortable. I never use negative 

language, always positive language,” 

Long said. “The girls are always there to 

fluff their outfits and they feel special. 

Even without retouching (the photos), 

they look spectacular. What you see 

is that all the girls are having a great 

time. That’s what’s key with the ladies— 

confidence and having a great time.” 

To that end, Long and his creative 

team encourage the client to have a date 

night after the photo shoot—not to run 

home and wash off all that fabulous 

vintage makeup and take down that 

head-turning updo. 

Once he knows what outfits his 

clients will wear for the photoshoots, 

Long recommends a list of props. But 

over the past decade his clients have 

brought in some interesting personal 

items of their own—a chainsaw, 

because a client’s husband owned a 

tree-felling business; axes; a fireman’s 

hose; and an authentic sword to make 

it appear his subject was swallowing 

one. But the craziest prop Long ever 

saw was a real rocket launcher brought 

in by a woman who used to serve in the 

armed forces. 

Rocket launcher or no, Long projects 

a light-hearted image—he appreciates 

the self-doubt that so many women 

struggle with, and therein lies his 

greatest talent. 

“I don’t take my job lightly,” Long said. 

“I do joke around a lot, but I take my 

job very, very seriously because I know 

what a privilege it is to present these 

albums. They come back to pick up 

their album. They open it and, usually, 

cry. It’s a real privilege to provide that 

for ladies.” 


STARTUP 62 

WHAT’S GOING UP 66 

WHAT I’M WORKING ON 68 

MY WORKSPACE 70 

GAME CHANGER 72 

pg. 62 

A mask from the Discover African Art collection.

IT’S ALL ABOUT THE STORY.

startup 

Behind the Mask 

Dave’s Killer Bread co-founder 

Dave Dahl launches a 

massive African art shop 

written by Kevin Max 

photography by Joni Kabana 

Dave Dahl wears an African mask from 

his Discover African Art collection. 


startup 

Dahl has stockpiled 20,000 pieces of art in more 

than 16,000 square feet of warehouse and showcase 

spaces in Clackamas and the Pearl District. 

AT AGE 54, DAVE DAHL IS STARTING OVER. 

After more than two years of collecting masks and other tribal 

artwork, the icon of Dave’s Killer Bread now finds himself with a 

big bet in the African art world and on the path to healing from 

his well-publicized darker past. 

This unusual journey was inspired by one night in 2014 at 

McMenamins Crystal Ballroom, where a dark wooden mask, 

6 feet long, caught Dahl’s attention and fed his imagination. “I 

saw these long primitive masks up on the wall, and I was moved 

by the way they would integrate animal and human elements,” 

Dahl recalled. “I ended up buying lots of these masks, and 

African masks got my attention because of the way they brought 

in the abstract.” 

Discover African Art, whose motto is “African art for the soul 

and home,” is composed of 20,000 pieces, more than 16,000 

square feet of warehouse and showcase space in Clackamas 

and Portland’s Pearl District. “I’m not sure, but by size and 

potential I’m probably the biggest African art dealer in the 

country,” he said. 

Long-haired and built like a weight lifter, Dahl created 

himself in the image of resistance to his dad and his upbringing 

in a Seventh-day Adventist household. In 1997, Dahl began a 

decades-long cycle of drugs and imprisonment, returning to 

baking bread and trying to come to terms with his past. “One 

of the things I’m working on is forgiveness,” Dahl said, his voice 

deep inside his chest. “I spent my life resenting my dad. He 

was everything I didn’t want to be. In prison, I came around to 

saying, ‘Hey man, life is hard.’ My dad had things that made him 

the way he was.” 

Dahl founded Dave’s Killer Bread in 2005 as a new line to his 

family’s baking business, and turned marketing on its head by 

not only not concealing his felonious past but by embracing his 

time in the criminal justice system. His business plan would 

horrify most investors. He hired ex-convicts to work alongside 

him making bread. What should have gone wrong, didn’t. 

Consumers had a heart, it seemed, and the story and quality 

behind Dave’s Killer Bread touched them. The maker of Good 

Seed organic bread was an instant hit, and soon bags featuring 

the long-haired ex-con with an electric guitar were essential 

bindings of the American sandwich. 

In August 2014, Georgia-based food conglomerate 

Flowers Foods Inc. came in big and acquired Dave’s 


startup 

Among Dahl’s collection are masks from Tanzania and the Democratic Republic of 

Congo, statues from Cameroon and Nigeria, and textiles from Mali and Ivory Coast. 

Killer Bread for $275 million. “It was my baby,” Dahl 

told The Oregonian at the time of the buyout. “Now it’s 

everybody’s baby.” 

Over the three decades, however, Dahl was fighting 

addiction, depression and just about anything that got in his 

way. Drugs helped him escape the family’s baking business, 

then, inadvertently, led him back to it. 

“It started at Dave’s Killer Bread,” he recalled. “I had 

experience with transformation of myself and believing in 

what I was doing as a 180-degree turn from before. It was me 

experiencing my own change. I realized that I could be a part 

of other people’s transformation. “ 

Now he’s trying to battle back in business and in life. He’s 

in drug treatment, goes to counseling and is coming to terms 

with his demons while buying masks from Tanzania and the 

Democratic Republic of Congo, statues from Cameroon, and 

Nigeria and textiles from Mali and Ivory Coast. The pieces 

range from $75 hand-woven blankets to statues and masks 

that run well in the thousands of dollars. His personal favorites 

are masks from the Songye tribe of the DRC. “Their stuff 

just speaks to me,” he said. “The masks are kifwebe that are 

completely abstract and represent something that doesn’t exist 

in nature.” 

Of course, falling in love with one mask in a dark concert 

venue and building an import business out of Africa are two 

planets a universe apart. “Just about everything I get passionate 

about, I want to make a business out of it,” he confessed. “I love 

it so much I want to share it with other people.” 

Early in 2015, Dahl reached out to a mentor. “I found out 

about an old guy in Issaquah,” he said. “He originally had 

an African art shop in Seattle. I visited him and we had a 

great time.” Dahl left with $50,000 worth of African art and 

connections to buyers throughout Africa. There was no 

turning back. 

Flouting traditional retail business models he knew from 

Dave’s Killer Bread, Dahl aggressively acquired as many 

pieces as he could get his hands on. His passion for all things 

African deepened with each new piece, each new container. 

Letting demand dictate growth “would have made too much 

sense,” Dahl quipped. “To get down to it, I think that I had 

money to spend.” 

On a Thursday in August, Dahl opened a small gallery 

showroom on 11th Avenue in the Pearl District. This launch 

begins a new journey for the entrepreneur-turned-art dealer. 

“I’m in a good place right now,” he said. “I feel like I’m on a 

great path.” 


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what’s going up? 

Drink it up 

New spots to grab a pint 


THERE’S NO SHORTAGE of places to quaff a craft 

brew in this state. But just as people keep moving 

here, so too do more breweries and brewpubs keep 

popping up. 

ABOVE A southeast view rendering of Boneyard’s 

upcoming brewpub off NE Division in Bend. 

In Bend, the much-beloved 

Boneyard Beer is in the midst of 

renovating a long-empty bar on 

NE Division Street that will be its 

first brewpub. The brewery, which 

makes Oregon’s favorite IPA (called 

RPM), has until now operated just 

a tiny tasting room at its brewing 

facility. Boneyard hopes to open its 

restaurant and bar this fall. 

Among the newest is Side A 

Brewing, in La Grande. The 

brewpub, in the city’s downtown 

historic firehouse (and adjacent to 

the Eastern Oregon Fire Museum), 

opened in March. Nicholas 

Fairbanks, the head brewer, worked 

for a variety of breweries around 

the country including Silver Moon 

in Bend. Locally sourced gastropub 

food and an outdoor beer garden 

make this a must-drink spot. 

Bodega Beer, in Portland, is slated 

to open a fifteen-barrel brewhouse 

on SE Stark Street by the end of the 

year. It will be the latest addition 

to what has become a brewpub 

district in Southeast Portland— 

according to Portland Mercury, 

you can hit fourteen breweries on 

a 3.4-mile walk. 


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what i’m working on 

Eyes on the Prize 

Richard Taylor’s research uses the world 

of fractals to cure blindness 

University of Oregon research 

professor Richard Taylor is 

engineering retinal implant 

devices using fractal patterns 

to help restore vision. 

interview and photography by Vanessa Salvia 

MOST PHYSICISTS DO NOT also study art, but it’s a natural combination for University of Oregon research professor 

Richard Taylor. Taylor, 54, also has an art theory degree. He’s been at UO since 2000, when he became known for 

investigating the fractal nature of the “splatter” paintings done by American artist Jackson Pollock. Taylor’s now 

developing 2-millimeter-sized retinal implant devices engineered using fractal patterns to restore vision for those 

suffering retina-destroying diseases such as macular degeneration. 

How did you make the switch 

between Jackson Pollock and vision? 

I’ve done art and physics separately, 

but I’m always trying to bring them 

together. Fractals are prevalent in 

nature and I thought, surely then 

artists must be interested in them, 

too. But if they’re prevalent in nature, 

scientists should be studying them 

as well. A lot of people think fractals 

are computer generated, but they’re 

prevalent in nature, and they’re 

very beneficial. 

Fractals are patterns that repeat at 

increasingly smaller scale. How does 

that work in our body? 

In nature, the branching patterns of 

rivers and trees are fractal. In our 

bodies, fractal patterning appears in 

the bronchus in our respiratory tract. 

All of our nerves are fractals. In your 

brain, your eye or your hand, the 

nerves are not straight lines, they’re 

fractals, with the same branched 

pattern as trees and river tributaries. 

The sensors on implant devices we 

have now are smooth and rectangular, 

which the body’s neurons interpret as 

a foreign surface, so they avoid them. 

That means the brain doesn’t receive 

the electrical signals very well. 

Right! At the back of the eye are sort 

of biological solar panels that receive 

light and send that signal to the back 

of the brain. Our electronics have 

the same shape as the nerves they’re 

meant to be talking to. We patented 

the very simple idea of being able 

to build electronics with this same 

fractal shape as the nerves so they 

can pass the signal on to the brain 

most effectively. 

What stage is the research at now? 

This has worked in computational 

analysis and in in vitro studies in petri 

dishes. Now we’re in the in vivo phase 

using mice. A mouse eye is so much 

smaller that, if we can do it in a mouse’s 

eye, we can do it in a human eye. If we 

can offer this to humans, we can help 

someone who is legally blind see at 

20/80 vision, which is good enough to 

interpret human facial expression and 

read text, or be able to tell that there 

is a doorway and walk through it. If 

you can do those things you can fully 

engage in society. 


my workspace 

My Workspace 

Rescue Diving 

It’s a risky business 

saving lives 

written by Lee Lewis Husk 

photography by Bradley Lanphear 

“We can go from everything is fine 

to a screaming emergency,” said 

Hood, who works as the operations 

manager for the airport. Since its 

formation in 1994, the volunteer 

dive team has saved ten lives and 

recovered nineteen drowning victims 

from the ocean, rivers and lakes. 

At 11:50 a.m. on June 12, 2014, a sailboat capsized 

near Osprey Point Marina in Lakeside, Oregon, 

trapping three people inside. Rescue diver Bob 

Hood led the team that saved all three, including an 

infant, despite getting tangled in the boat’s riggings. 

He’s part of the six-member Bandon Fire District 

SWORA (Southwest Oregon Regional Airport) 

Dive Team that regularly puts itself in harm’s way. 

70 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2017

my workspace 

Working with the U.S. Coast Guard in 

August 2016, Hood jumped into a fastflowing 

current in Winchester Bay to pull 

a young boy from a submerged vessel. 

He jettisoned his dive gear, placed the 

child on the boat’s up-turned bottom 

and performed CPR until help arrived. 

The child survived, and the Coast Guard 

plucked Hood from the water. 

The dive team deploys about once 

a month and has been through a 

“ridiculous” amount of training, 

according to Hood. “We go into 

boats that are sinking and try to 

save people, but only if we feel it’s 

safe to go in,” he said, emphasizing 

that the support of his team and 

other responding agencies is critical 

for success. 

His advice? Wear a life jacket, keep your 

speed down on roads, especially near rivers, 

make sure vessels are seaworthy and avoid 

alcohol when swimming or driving a boat. 

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2017 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 71

game changer 

Fill Your Pantry 

Prepare for winter with a one-day 

farmers market 

written by Chris Peterson 

illustrated by Allison Bye 

YOU’VE SURELY NOTICED how easy it has become to create an 

entire meal from local ingredients thanks to year-round farmers 

markets, Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) boxes, farm 

stands, even online shopping. As demand has grown, so has the 

number of small farmers producing broader varieties of foods, 

from duck eggs and cheese to polenta and popcorn. Grocers, 

restaurants, pubs, bakeries and even school cafeterias proudly list 

local ingredients. 

A new way to stock up on healthful staples and boost your local 

economy in one annual shopping spree is taking root. Aptly called 

Fill Your Pantry, these one-day farmers markets fill community 

halls, schools and granges with food producers and consumers 

for one big, all-local sale that leaves everyone with a sense of 

accomplishment. 

This Oregon-original idea is not a franchise—these are 

community-specific events based on what is produced 

in the area and what community food groups 

exist. Most occur shortly after harvest so 

shoppers can fill their pantries and freezers 

with peak-quality staples—onions, garlic, 

squash, whole grains, flour, dried beans, 

nuts, fruits, meats, vegetables, fermented 

and preserved foods, and more in 

time for the holidays and winter’s 

worst weather. 


game changer 

Customers save money purchasing 

in bulk and save farmers from 

having to store that food and sell 

it slowly over the winter. Best of 

all, customers can meet those 

farmers, ask questions and thank 

them for their wholesome food 

and hard work. Farmers rarely get 

to hear feedback, and it can serve 

as a shot of adrenaline at the end 

of an exhausting growing season 

and harvest. They’ll be ordering 

seeds, planning herds or flocks, 

and pruning orchards for next year 

before you’ve hardly made a dent in 

your supply. 

The idea for Fill Your Pantry 

(FYP) sprouted eight years ago as 

Willamette Valley farmers met 

to discuss expanding bean and 

grain production in response to 

growing consumer demand. Ten 

Rivers Food Web hosted the first 

event in a barn near Corvallis— 

response was overwhelming. 

It was immediately adopted by 

Willamette Farm & Food in Lane 

County, again to rave reviews. 

Today FYP events also take place 

in Portland, Salem, Hood River 

and Central Oregon (see sidebar) 

to such enthusiasm that many 

producers sell out before it’s over, 

prompting online pre-ordering 

where possible. OSU Extension 

Service preservation experts are 

often on hand to answer questions, 

while music, food, kids’ activities 

or other special features often add 

festivity to these celebrations of 

community, self-sufficiency and 

local abundance. 

TIPS FOR SHOPPING 

A FILL YOUR PANTRY EVENT 

• Prepare storage space with cool, 

constant temperatures. Make 

freezer space. 

• Pre-order online, where possible, to 

guarantee purchases. Or, arrive early. 

• Can’t use best-deal large quantities? 

Purchase and share with friends. 

• Ask questions of farmers and storage 

experts—they’ll love it. 

• Bring extra muscle or wheel power for 

schlepping goods to your vehicle. 

• Bring cash or checks for vendors who 

don’t take credit cards. 

• SNAP and EBT welcomed at most 

events (check websites). 

MORE INFO 

Find details for the Fill Your Pantry 

event nearest you 

• CORVALLIS: tenriversfoodweb.org 

• EUGENE/SPRINGFIELD: 

willamettefarmandfood.org 

• PORTLAND AND SALEM: 

friendsoffamilyfarmers.org 

• HOOD RIVER: rockfordgrange.net 

• CENTRAL OREGON: 

centraloregonlocavore.org 

Want to start one in your area? 

Contact any of the above. 


Oregon 

Growth 

BLAME OREGON FOR BEING GORGEOUS. 

She’s a natural beauty who doesn’t have a bad 

angle. Humans want to scale Oregon’s peaks. Get inside 

the caves. Fish the fresh waters. Bike sinuous trails. Camp 

and imbibe. Oregon has become the pageant winner. Such 

a reputation has also brought a high-maintenance edge. 

Oregon ranked as the top destination in the country for 

transplants from 2013 to 2015, according to United Van 

How Oregon is preparing for 

population and economic growth 

written by Tricia Louvar 

Lines. Jobs and nature tend to lure and serenade. With 

growth management comes affordability frustrations 

and density concerns. The state’s citizen workgroups and 

lawmakers have jostled and negotiated the boundaries 

between nature and culture, trying to keep the 

feverish encroachment in check. 



111 

People Move 

To Portland 

A DAY 

New Residents 

From California: 

30% 

2 ND in the 

NATION 

 

 

 

REGON FEVER 

CALIFORNIA HATERS sprinkle the 

Beaver State. Oregonians-who-dislike- 

Californians blame them for jacking up 

housing prices because they sold high 

there and bought low here. 

“Whether people from California or 

Kansas are moving here, they are adding 

to the local housing demand,” said Joshua 

Lehner, senior economist at Oregon 

Office of Economic Analysis. “This has 

been happening forever in Oregon since 

Lewis and Clark or even the Bering Land 

Bridge.” 

Regarding adult migration, only one of 

three Oregonians was born in Oregon. 

Thirty percent of the new residents to 

Oregon are moving from California. 

Lehner noted that most Californians 

go to Portland, and a disproportion 

chooses the coast, Southern Oregon 

(e.g., Ashland and Medford) and Bend. 

“Focusing on new residents is one facet 

of the affordability discussion,” Lehner 

said. “Oregon needs to add supply, 

however, to match the demand.” 

Analysts from WalletHub, an online 

credit reporting firm, named Oregon 

in 2017 as second in the nation with 

the highest growth domestic product. 

The accolades continue stacking: Bend- 

Redmond area ranked eighth in the 

nation for fastest growing metro area; 

Portland ranked 23 in largest metro 

areas in the country, even exceeding 

Pittsburgh, according to Metro, which is 

greater Portland’s regional government 

agency. 

In the mid-’90s, net migration soared 

to more than 60,000 people arriving 

thanks to economic expansion and jobs. 

On average over the past twenty years, 

about 28,000 people migrate to Oregon 

a year. Urban areas comprise most of 

that population gain, with around 111 

people moving to Portland each day, per 

the U.S. Census Bureau in 2014-15. With 

83 percent of Oregonians living in metro 

areas, transportation and roadways have 

become larger issues. Once peaceful 

four-lane parkways, connecting the 

north and south, have turned into 

gridlock flatulence. 

Three hours south and over the 

mountains sits Deschutes County, 

which remains the hotbed of population 

expansion, with Bend as its county 

seat. The county’s population grew 3.6 

percent over the prior year, reaching 

181,307 as of 2016. Central Oregon’s 

denizen of outdoor enthusiasts— 

Bend—has become the microcosm of 

growth management issues for mid-size 

cities. Local bumper stickers read “Bend 

Sucks! Don’t Move Here.” The reverse 

psychology isn’t working so well. 


THE 

EPICENTER 

FOR EXPANSION 

MANY BENDITES want 

to keep their small-town 

small, keep Mount Bachelor 

runs unpopulated, the local 

coffee roasters thriving and parking 

spots open near trailheads. These are 

the “pack it in, pack it out, leave no 

trace behind” people. Such a culture is 

becoming harder to maintain with Bend 

experiencing full-throttle economic growth 

at a 6 percent pace. 

“Every city wants to have a strong local 

economy, high quality of life and housing 

affordability for its residents. Unfortunately, these 

three dimensions represent the Housing Trilemma,” 

Lehner wrote. “A city can achieve success on two but 

not all three at the same time. Underlying all of these 

tradeoffs are local policies as well.” 

The housing trilemma is a nationwide issue, not just an 

Oregon problem. The Pacific Northwest metro areas exhibit 

the quality of life and economic strength, Lehner noted, but lack 

affordability. (Note: His analysis 

showed that Des Moines, Omaha and 

Oklahoma City encompass the trifecta. 

So, move east then?) 

Zillow revealed Oregon home values shot 

up 11.4 percent over the past year. Portland has 

the highest price per square foot at $323. If you want 

to buy a house anywhere in Oregon, the median price 

currently listed is $349,000. 

In Bend, a westside 0.3-acre lot with a view costs $175,000— 

a bargain if you set up a tent and know how to use a compost 

toilet. Winters will be cold. The median home price in Bend is 

$384,600. Perhaps a steady uptick to a housing bubble? 

Deschutes County’s population jumped 15 percent over the 

past six years, which is tremendous in comparison to Multnomah 

County’s population surge at 8.8 percent over the same time frame. 

In a year, the Bend-Redmond metropolitan statistical area rose 

seven spots to first place by the Milken Institute as the 2016 Best- 

Performing Small City in the U.S. Bend’s health care system, diverse 

economic base and high-tech industry were attributable to 

moving it to the coveted top spot. 


Since 2010, one of five residents in Bend is new to the city. The 

“adventure town” label has drawn lifestyle businesses to Bend, 

making it one of the fastest growing employment sectors (behind 

construction). Ruffwear, HyrdoFlask, Metolius Climbing, Cairn, 

SnoPlanks, Backstrap, Soleprint, Sudara and Entre-Prises are a 

few of the town’s lifestyle brands. 

There’s something in the snowmelt, though. Dreamers 

consult Bend Outdoor Worx, a startup incubator for outdoor 

industry entrepreneurs, and Oregon State University-Cascades 

(in Bend) is launching an outdoor product development degree. 

Where else can you wear hiking sandals to a business meeting 

and still be respected? Bend makes standup paddleboard 

meetings look good. 

You know there are growth management concerns when one 

section of Bend—the Central Westside—has a 52-page executive 

summary on its mixed-use urban core. The proposal wants to 

accommodate modest density, transportation, travel time and 

land-use changes. 

Development concerns go way back in Oregon. In the 1970s 

Governor Thomas McCall went around Oregon, publicly 

rebuking people who carved and populated the state’s open land 

without much forethought. He urged the Legislature to pass 

Senate Bill (SB) 100, which denounced “sagebrush subdivisions, 

coastal condomania, and the ravenous rampages of suburbia.” 

Oregon lawmakers passed the land-use planning law 

in 1973. With SB 100 came the creation of the 

Land Conservation and Development Commission (LCDC). 

It required each city and county in Oregon to create and abide 

by the regional land-use planning system. (Many may think of 

SB 100 as the first land-use law. Portland, however, became 

the first Oregon city in 1918 to pass its self-regulating landuse 

ordinances.) 

An urban growth boundary is a state-specific mandate that 

tries to control urban sprawl’s perimeter of a city. The UGB 

protects farmland and preserves rural attributes. In theory, a 

UGB has within it a twenty-year land supply for development. 

It has considered density, economic development, transportation 

and housing opportunities. The map specifies opportunity areas 

and expansion areas inside the territory. 

The implementation of UGB has no 

shortage of critics, whether it hurts or 

helps land-use regulations. Some view 

the UGB as a mechanism for creating 

unaffordable housing conditions. 

“Oregon has affordability challenges, 

but it’s a phenomenon in the growing 

U.S.,” Lehner said. “Bend just happens 

to be a little worse than other areas, 

because it doesn’t have a lot of 

buildable inventory.” 

In April 2009, the City 

of Bend and the County 


Bend Zoning Map 

00 0.25 .5 11 .5 2 

agreed to amend the UGB. Over the course of eight years, 

seventy public hearings, sixty volunteers and three technical 

advisory committees culminated to finalize the UGB that the 

LCDC “acknowledged” (code for approved or passed). Bend now 

has 2,380 more acres for housing and business development as 

of December 2016. Help is on the way—it’s just that building 

takes time. 

Bend’s UGB map offers in detail the opportunity and expansion 

areas. The map showcases how Bend will maximize land use 

inside the city before expanding the footprint. Development of 

an opportunity area such as the 22-acre KorPine site, 

the former particleboard milling plant in the Old Mill 

District, will offer an urban district environment of high-rise 

apartment buildings and a commercial center. The development 

near Franklin Avenue allows for a mix-use zone of residential 

space on the top floors and businesses on the bottom floors of 

new buildings. 

Development ensures that housing demands and employment 

are at the core of the expansion. The collaborative task force, 

Bend 2030, engaged one in seven residents about the 

vision of their city. “There is still some NIMBY here, but 


hearts and minds change with education, and we can work on 

it,” said Erin Foote Morgan, executive director of Bend 2030. 

Foote Morgan, 37, said finding solutions to the middlemarket 

housing dilemma occupies much of Bend 2030. The 

middle-market suffers the most. For example, in 2015 there 

were 2,778 homes available for a household making $150,000 

or more, whereas for those earning between $49,999 and 

$99,999 there was a deficit of 798 available homes. The rental 

vacancy rate has been less than 2 percent since 2013. 

The lopsided housing availability puts pressure on business 

owners to pay and sustain its employees. If you can’t live here, 

you move farther out and commute longer. You can’t save for 

a home if your salary is a pittance and your rent is high. The 

cycle won’t break but people will. Solutions are in order. 

Bend 2030 formed a task force called the Bend 

Collaborative Housing Workgroup, a steering committee 

of thirty professional residents who want to find policy 

solutions. It worked extensively with ECONorthwest, a 

Portland-based economic consultancy, which completed 

a microeconomics study on the housing situation and 

economic development. 

The Landscape Report found home ownership for the 

middle-market sector is out of reach. “With a lack of 

inventory and the slow building timeline these equate a bad 

equilibrium for selling and buying,” Lehner said. “Therein lies 

one challenge of the housing crunch.” 

Bend Collaborative Workgroup took the Landscape 

Report and buckled down. It worked 500 hours over 


eight months to whittle from fifty strategies to twelve. These 

twelve will be open to public feedback. The workgroup favors 

recalculating congestion standards to include pedestrians 

and bicyclists (not just car counts). It also proposes reworking 

system development charges (SDCs), a financing tool used 

by cities, to offer developers a hierarchical fee structure to 

incentivize building smaller units and increasing housing 

supply. Parking requirements and vertical housing tax 

exemption are on the docket for implementation, too. 

Bend is at its worst point regarding housing availability, 

but things are going to get better. The workgroups keep 

looking at long-range plans to maintain supply and advocate 

for adequate services for its citizens. Developers will offer 

a new mix of middle-market housing types—bungalow 

complex, courtyard apartment, triplex and fourplex, duplex, 

townhomes, multiplex and the live-work buildings. These 

may be shoehorned between detached single-family 

homes and mid-rise residential buildings. Diverse housing 

allows for higher-density living spaces to alleviate traffic 

congestion. With an urban core comes more walkable, 

connected passages. 

Bend’s engaged residents and its workgroups are taking a 

leadership role in shaping their city’s future. “People don’t 

have to be angry [about change],” Foote Morgan said. “They 

need to put their energy into the solutions that maintain the 

character of the small-town environment—the reason why 

most of us moved here.” 


Have we 

reached peak 

beer? 

written by Sheila G. Miller

Nothing screams “peak 

beer” like the influx of crazy 

flavors such as strawberry 

cheesecake stouts and peanut 

butter porters. Heck, you 

can even find recipes for beer 

slushies these days. 

I 

was in the Portland International Airport the first 

time I saw it—beer dedicated to the memory of the 

PDX carpet. Then I saw one inspired by Voodoo 

Doughnut flavors. I was lost. 

I grew up in Portland in the days when the 

microbrew of choice was Henry Weinhard’s. Sure, 

that was when the beer was still brewed in the Pearl 

District and the Pearl was not called that—it was just 

a bunch of warehouses, factories, the brewery and Powell’s. 

I digress, but only to explain that a lot about Oregon has 

changed in the past couple decades, and nowhere is that more 

apparent than in the beer scene. 

From these humble beginnings we have arrived at a 

crossroads—as of the end of 2016, Oregon now has at least 

230 brewing companies statewide, according to the Oregon 

Brewers Guild. Today you can fill a growler with one of thirty 

craft brews at a gas station, or cycle-power a boat along the 

Willamette River while drinking your choice of craft beers. 

You can eat a burger made from cows that were fed the 

spent grain from the local beermaking process, and soak 

in a beer spa. 

So where does Oregon’s beer scene go from here? Have we 

reached peak beer? 

First, the facts. According to records from the OLCC, as of 

May 2017 (the most recent data available) breweries and 

brewpubs in Oregon had sold almost 247,000 barrels of beer 

and cider. A barrel is the equivalent of 31 gallons. If I’m doing 

that math right, and OLCC tells me I am, 7.5 million gallons 

of beer and cider were sold in the first four months of the year. 

That’s a lot of beer. At the end of 2016, Oregon breweries 

and brewpubs had sold more than 625,000 barrels—more 

than 19 million gallons. That’s everyone from Deschutes and 

Ninkasi, which are consistent top sellers, to places like Wm. 

Roesch Brewery in Pendleton, which reported selling 0.17 

barrels in April. 

Oregon ranked fourth in the number of gallons of beer 

brewed annually per adult older than 21, according to the 

Brewers Association, a national nonprofit trade organization— 

only Alaska, Colorado and Pennsylvania rank ahead. That’s 

nearly 12 gallons per legal drinker. 

Damon Runberg, a state economist based in Bend, sees a 

slight slowdown in the growth of the beer industry in Oregon. 

But the industry continues to grow at a fast clip. A net gain of 

twelve breweries between 2015 and 2016, an increase of more 

than 500 employees in those years, 8 percent—this is growth 

nearly any industry would love to have. But it’s a far cry from 

previous years—for example, between 2014 and 2015 the 

growth rate was more than 13 percent. 

The state is now seeing some closures—fourteen breweries 

closed in 2016. Nonetheless, breweries continue to be a place 

for Oregonians to seek work—more than 6,700 men and 

women now work in breweries around the state, and the total 

payroll is almost $204 million. 

“There is a growing belief that Oregon reached ‘peak beer,’ 

meaning the current supply of breweries is sufficient to meet 

the current (and short-term future) demand,” Runberg wrote 

in a recent report. “However, the industry continues to grow, 

albeit at a slower pace. It would be hard to make a case that 

the brewing industry peaked when employment in that sector 

expanded by 8 percent in the past year.” 

Runberg divides the brewing industry into two markets— 

pubs and distribution. It’s in that distribution channel where 

there’s still a lot of room for growth. Bend’s Deschutes 

Brewery, for example, distributes in twenty-eight states and 

is in the midst of building a tap room and then, a brewery 

and distribution center in Roanoke, Virginia. 10 Barrel, 

which was purchased by Anheuser-Busch in 2014, to some 

disdain, now has new distribution channels and money to 

build out new facilities. 

“Most states don’t have the saturation that Oregon does,” 

Runberg said, which means Oregon’s breweries have more 

opportunity in larger markets outside of Oregon. 

While seeing breweries closing in their communities 

might lead consumers to think the beer industry has stopped 

growing, Runberg said. 

“Very few brewers are saying that there wasn’t demand for 

their product,” Runberg said. “What a lot of them 

said was, ‘This was a side gig and it’s become a fulltime 

job.’ They’d started home brewing and it had 


gotten overwhelming. Their bandwidth ran out. But I’m not 

hearing that nobody bought their beer.” 

He also noted that the beer industry does not follow the 

same trends as the rest of the economy when recession hits. 

“In slow times, people still drink beer.” 

Nonetheless Runberg highlighted an opportunity for 

diversity in the brewing industry—not every brewery 

needs to make one IPA, one porter, one stout and so on. He 

pointed to Monkless, a Bend brewery that focuses entirely 

on Belgian ales. 

He also pointed out most breweries follow the same path 

when seeking success and expansion—opening a pub and then 

expanding brewing to match demand. Runberg until recently 

used Boneyard Beer in Bend as an example of a brewery that 

hasn’t followed that traditional path. Boneyard is only now in 

the process of opening a pub, seven years after it started selling 

its beer to bars and restaurants around the state and operating 

a tiny tasting room in what looks like an old autoshop. 

Oregon Stats: 

BREWERIES AND BREWPUBS SOLD MORE 

THAN 625,000 BARRELS (19 MILLION 

GALLONS) OF BEER IN 2016. 

RANKED FOURTH IN GALLONS OF BEER 

BREWED ANNUALLY PER ADULT—NEARLY 

12 GALLONS A LEGAL DRINKER. 

MORE THAN 6,700 MEN AND WOMEN NOW 

WORK IN BREWERIES AROUND THE STATE 

WITH AN ANNUAL PAYROLL OF ALMOST 

$204 MILLION. 

T 

ONY LAWRENCE STARTED 

Boneyard Beer in 2010 with two 

cofounders, no outside investors 

and a belief that making great 

beer would sustain the company. 

He was right. 

Lawrence said the key to 

Boneyard’s success was creating 

a high-quality product and making good 

business decisions. 

“I think you will see a lot of these 

people not be able to produce a highquality 

product or make terrible business 

decisions along the way—mostly from a 

capital standpoint,” he said. “A lot of these 

new breweries seem to be using a bunch of 

cash that they haven’t really earned, based 

off twenty-four-month statistics of growth, 

and they’re going to get into a pinch, in my 

opinion. If there is some type of shakeout, 

some will make bad decisions in a crowded 

marketplace. They could make them in a 

lesser marketplace and survive, but I think 

there will be a natural (purge).” 

Lawrence believes there will always 

be room for a small brewery with a 

neighborhood pub that makes good food 

and beer and understands its regulars. 

But trying to distribute that beer at a high 

volume probably won’t get any easier. 

“It’s definitely getting more difficult to 

hook up with a distributor,” Lawrence said. 

“We’re seeing distributors slowing down 

on acquiring brands, because it’s too much 

work anymore to keep everybody happy.” 

“I think there’s room—if you make 

a high-quality liquid and make good 

decisions and you don’t get too upside 

down financially, you can hang on.” 

Ninkasi CEO Cheryl Collins agreed. “At 

the end of the day, it’s all about the quality 

and drinkability of the beer.” 

While his wasn’t the traditional 

approach, Lawrence said he started 

Boneyard without a pub because it was 

what he understood. He’d primarily 

worked in production-based breweries, 

not in restaurant or bar management. 

“That, coupled with a lack of money I 

had, I thought I better focus on 

what I know how to do,” Lawrence 

said. The brewery will open a pub 


in Bend this summer or fall. “Here we are, 

seven years later, and we’ve made a couple 

dollars and the tourism scene in Bend and 

elsewhere is so thriving, it seemed the 

right time.” 

Nothing screams “peak beer” like the 

influx of crazy flavors such as strawberry 

cheesecake stouts and peanut butter 

porters. Heck, you can even find recipes 

for beer slushies these days. 

“Those beers may have a moment in 

the evening or the week,” Lawrence said. 

“But we’ve had luck with a repeatable, 

sustainable clean IPA on the table, and 

I think fortunately people want to buy 

two or three of them. We’re old-school 

brewers. We like pilsners and hoppy beers 

and sours. That’s a diverse platform but 

those are all original styles. And Boneyard 

is still about that.” 

“I think breweries are doing that to 

give themselves the opportunity for 

placement on the shelf or a tap handle,” 

Lawrence said. “They’re doing a lot of 

things that I don’t want to do, but they’re 

probably forced into. … It’s helping 

some of the younger brands find an 

opportunity for themselves.” 

Collins said there’s no question the 

brewing industry can continue to grow. “It’s 

less about if we, as an industry, can grow 

and more about how we are approaching 

growth,” she said. “As with any industry, 

when you have this many players in the 

market, the need to become more creative 

and innovative is required to stay 

at the top of consumers’ minds.” 


You can eat a burger made 

from cows that were fed the 

spent grain from the local 

beermaking process, and soak 

in a beer spa. 

w 

HILE THE BREWING industry 

may be changing and slowing, 

businesses that take advantage 

of Oregon’s beer tourism and 

reputation are booming. In many cities around 

the state, tour companies will organize brewery 

tours and beer tastings—leave the driving up to 

them. That’s just the start. 

Andrea Lins runs BrewGroup, a company 

that offers pub crawls with its Beer Cycle 

and Beer Barge throughout Portland. Lins is 

originally from Wisconsin, and she moved to 

Portland sight unseen to start the beer-adjacent 

company in 2012. 

“We picked Portland because everyone can 

go on a pub crawl and get a rum and Coke, or in 

Wisconsin, where I’m from, a Miller Lite. But I 

loved the idea of being part of something a little 

bit more local,” she said. “Here you can go on 

a pub crawl and get a beer from a place that is 

brewing it in the back room.” 


With the Brew Cycle, you and your 

fourteen closest friends can cycle on 

a giant moving bar through the Pearl 

District on a two-hour pub crawl that 

hits three breweries and pubs. Or hit 

the high seas with the Brew Barge, a 

ninety-minute pedal on the water. 

Bring your own beer, wine or cider. 

Considering how quickly Lins’ 

company has grown, she thinks there’s 

continued room for growth in the 

brewing industry in Oregon. In fact, 

she and her brother recently opened 

a nanobrewery—Back Pedal Brewing. 

“This is a generation that is putting 

more money into experiences,” she 

said. “We aren’t the generation who 

owns a lot. Things can be rented. So I 

think that a lot more of the disposable 

income is going into experiences like 

we offer.” 

The number of breweries and 

beer-related companies in Oregon 

doesn’t mean the end is nigh. “It’s 

not about the competition per 

se,” she said. “It’s more about the 

innovation and the community 

aspect of the brewery industry.” 

Lins said beer consumers will 

continue to seek new experiences, 

and that pubs and breweries can keep 

patrons with new experiences and 

new beer. 

Back Pedal Brewing in Portland 

is a three-and-a-half-barrel system 

nanobrewery that’s been brewing 

for two years. Recently Back Pedal 

brewed a lemon rose beer, using 

fruit puree. “We’re just having a lot 

of fun with different ingredients 

and different combinations, so 

we’re lucky to be such a small-batch 

brewer because we can be extremely 

experimental,” Lins said. 

“I think that more capacity would 

allow us to have a wider range,” Lins 

said. “We’re running out of our beer 

too fast.” 

TRYING TO PIN DOWN a definition 

of a nano brewery is impossible. 

Even the Oregon Liquor Control 

Commission doesn’t make the 

distinction among brewery sizes. Ask 

anyone, though, and they agree—nano 

brewers are small. 

Steve Anderson of Bend spent his 

career in a control tower for the FAA. 

Now he has turned his careful attention 

to the very small Kobold Brewing. “I’m 

a nano brewer. I have a two-barrel 

brewery,” he said. “The end result 

when the day’s out is I end up with a 

62-gallon batch.” Besides the business 

of ordering materials, developing 

recipes, brewing the beer, washing the 

kegs, keeping good notes, marketing, 

selling and delivering the beer, he is 

also the general contractor for the tap 

house he opened in Redmond this past 

summer. “It’s me. It’s all me, a one-man 

show currently.” 

So why put such tremendous effort 

into such a small brewery? “I felt like 

anything I’m going to do at this point 

in my life has got to be fun. I’ve got to 

really enjoy doing it. It’s got to kind of 

be a community, other people have to 

enjoy it with me.” 

It’s the hyper-local beer community 

that makes a nano brewery’s smallness 

an asset. Ages ago brewing was a 

community service that fed beer to 

the village that surrounded it. Public 

The Plight 

of the 

NanoBrewer 


houses were gathering places where 

people discussed ideas, like how to 

form a new country. Though beer has 

been a global commodity for more 

than a century, nano breweries like 

Kobold fill a niche by continuing this 

tradition. And it seems nano brewers 

are better at connecting with their 

customers than larger breweries. 

“The ones that are going to survive,” 

said Janet Capstick, senior key account 

manager for Anheuser Busch, “they’re 

going to be good in their own realm. 

They have to define their own realm, 

but they’re different and it’s okay to be 

different in this world.” 

The question remains, how does 

a very small brewery compete with 

large ones that distribute around the 

world? “[A nano brewer] competes 

with Deschutes [Brewery], not in the 

volume level of 200,000 barrels, of 

course not,” said Bob Lauron, vice 

president of retail sales at Maletis 

Beverage in Portland. “But, in a 

qualitative sense, he lives with them 

at that point of purchase where that 

customer buys that product.” 

When asked how he competes for 

market share with larger breweries, 

Anderson had a simple answer. ”I 

don’t compete, I provide an excellent 

product and it sells itself.” 


the welltraveled 

oregon 

cerveza 


Mauricio Mata 

AN OREGONIAN AND AN ARGENTINIAN 

walked into a bar in Spain. This is not the 

beginning of a bad joke—it’s a true story of an 

Oregonian who is slowly influencing the world 

one beer at a time. 

For the past decade, Oregon-style beer has 

flowed into pint glasses in Valencia, Spain. Meet 

Mauricio Mata. Like many of us, he discovered 

home brewing on the weekends while living in 

Salem. Life challenges sent him to Spain for three 

months to reevaluate his life plan. Spain was a 

place of his youth, where his late father took him 

on trips along the Mediterranean coast to look at 

stone castles. As many Oregonians would do, he 

walked into a bar and ordered a Guinness, which 

was spoiled and tasted awful. That crappy beer 

gave way to conversation with the bartender from 

Argentina, who just happened to have gone to 

school in Eugene. 

“You’ll never taste a beer like you will in 

Oregon,” the Argentinian told him. Mata agreed. 

“That’s what actually triggered the whole idea,” 

Mata said. “Doing the whole adventure, and going 

back, selling the place, buying the brewery and 

doing the whole thing. It just sparked it. I was just 

thinking, ‘Oh man, if I don’t open up a brewery 

here, somebody else is going to do it.’” 

After learning commercial brewing techniques 

at McMenamins in Portland and picking up some 

finer points with John Maier of Rogue Brewing 

in Newport, Mata bought a seven-barrel system 

from a brewery in Port Townsend, Washington. 

He stuffed it into a container and shipped it to 

Valencia in 2005. Once there he built Stonecastle 

Brewing to honor his father. Two years later he 

opened Portland Ale House to honor his love of 

Oregon beer and to signify the style of beer he 

would brew. Such beers include Stone Castle 

Amber Ale, an obligatory IPA and an orange 

wheat with Valencia orange peels dried in the sun. 

Since Valencia is a land of sunny, coastal 

weather and macro-brewed lagers, he is surprised 

that his IPA has been such a big hit. “I get a lot 

of compliments on the beer,” Mata explained. “I 

specifically have people just coming for the IPA. 

It was a lot more than I expected.” Mata’s beer has 

gone over so well in Valencia that he doesn’t need 

a website. Turns out all anyone needs for great 

word-of-mouth-marketing in Spain is a Facebook 

page and some good Oregon style beer. Viva 

España! 

SPAINd 


HOW TO KAYAK THROUGH SEASIDE 

Check the tide table then rent a kayak 

at one of two locations in town. 

Head north and enjoy the views from 

the Necanicum or Neawanna Rivers. 

Once you reach the estuary say hello 

to the thousands of seabirds. 

Paddle on home and get a locally 

crafted beer. You’ve earned it! 

seasideOR.com

A Bountiful Harvest 

photography by Emily Joan Greene 

OREGON’S BOUNTY is on display year-round, from garlic to 

Christmas trees and everything in between. The state’s farmers 

produce more than 40 million bushels of wheat every year. 

The Padget family of Padget Ranches, in The Dalles, and the 

Dulings of Dulings Natural Pasture in Maupin, gave us the 

inside scoop on this year’s harvest. 


Dale Padget (left) and Darren Padget head back to their combines to finish harvest. 


CLOCKWISE FROM TOP A time-lapsed photo captures the stars as they cross the night 

sky. Courtney Estes cozies up in her sleeping bag as everyone settles in for the night. Sarah 

Hoen sets up camp after backpacking in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. 

Darren Padget cuts wheat in his combine. 


A sprig of wheat peeks out of Darren Padget’s pocket. 


Jerry Duling (left) with sons Nathan Duling (middle) 

and Josh Duling, on the farm in Maupin. 

A mountain goat in the wild. 


Dale Padget poses for a photo in front of his combine. 


96 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2017 

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TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 100 

ADVENTURE 102 

LODGING 112 

TRIP PLANNER 114 

NORTHWEST DESTINATION 120 

pg. 112 

Stillness is encouraged at Panacea at the Canyon.

travel spotlight 

The Oregon Vortex 

Gold Hill’s “spherical field of force” 

written by Kjersten Hellis 

IF YOU SEEK a mind-bending daytrip, look no further 

than The Oregon Vortex in Gold Hill. The Oregon 

Vortex is a roadside attraction that introduces visitors 

to illusions that seem to bend the rules of physics. Balls 

and bottles roll uphill, visitors change height depending 

on where they stand and a lopsided house changes the 

directions of items inside. 

Oregon Vortex opened to the public in 1930 and 

was owned by geologist John Litster, but the strange 

history doesn’t begin there. Legends tell how Native 

Americans in Gold Hill used to avoid this “forbidden 

area” because their horses spooked when they got 

too close. Today, the attraction’s owners claim the 

strange and unbelievable occurrences are the result of 

paranormal activity in the area. The attraction has even 

been investigated on the popular SyFy channel show 

Fact or Faked. 


Nonstop 

EUG to San Jose 

Connecting the Silicon Shire to the Silicon Valley

adventure 

Day three of the trip provided the riders with 

spectacular views of Fort Rock and the surrounding 

areas as they traveled nearly 60 miles north from Silver 

Lake to the edge of the Deschutes National Forest. 

STRAIGHT 

THROUGH 

THE HEART 

Epic scenery and hospitality on the 364-mile 

Oregon Outback bike trail 

written by Beau Eastes 

photography by Nate Wyeth 


adventure 

SOMEWHERE BETWEEN the Marty 

Robbins cover band in Sprague River 

and beers with the lawnmower patrol in 

Antelope, we realized this was a special 

bike trip. 

In early June, three buddies and I took 

off from Klamath Falls in an attempt to 

tackle the Oregon Outback, a multiday 

bikepacking trail that traverses the 

state. Despite not one of us having 

any bikepacking (camping by bike) 

experience whatsoever, the plan was 

for us to ride north almost entirely on 

gravel and old forest roads for 364 miles, 

ending where the Deschutes River flows 

into the Columbia River, about 15 miles 

east of The Dalles. We figured it’d be 

a cross between Lewis and Clark and 

Easy Rider, but on bicycles, and with 

fewer drugs. 

Six days, four river crossings and 

14,000 feet of climbing later, we 

rolled into the Deschutes River State 

Recreation Area exhausted, hungry 

and completely blown away by the 

overwhelming kindness we experienced 

from Oregonians. The scenery between 

the Klamath Basin and the Columbia 

River Gorge was pretty nice, too. 

Day 1: Getting started 

There’s a lot to love about the Outback 

trail, including that it starts in Klamath 

Falls, home to the state’s southernmost 

Amtrak train station. From Portland or 

Eugene you can load your bike on the 

train without boxing it. 

We caught the train in Eugene 

and after a five-hour ride, rolled into 

Klamath around 10 p.m., where the 

good folks at the Cerulean Hotel picked 

us up, bikes and all. After a hearty 

continental breakfast, some final packing 

rearrangements and multiple chamois 

cream jokes, we were off at the brisk 

time of … 8:30 a.m. 

The first 70-ish miles of the Outback 

are on the OC&E Woods Line State 

Trail, a car-free former railroad line. 

It’s a fantastic start and offers up more 

trail diversity than you’d think, though 

be prepared to open and shut forty-plus 

gates during this stretch. There’s also a 

couple of open pasture moments that 

let you channel your inner Augustus 

McCrae. It’s good fun, assuming you 

don’t herd the cows into the 

rest of your party. (It was an 

accident!) 

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2017 

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 

103

adventure 

LEFT After enduring what would be the toughest 

day of the trip, the riders were greeted by 

30-ounce steaks and all the fixings at the 

Cowboy Dinner Tree just south of Silver Lake. 

RIGHT Graham Hiemstra drinks a Budweiser 

during the first day of the ride. 

Our day one goal was to ride 40 miles 

and lunch at a gas station in Sprague 

River. We weren’t being cheap—that’s 

the only service usually offered in this 

tiny ranching community of about 

300 people. 

Luckily, the trail had better plans 

for us. Purely by accident we stumbled 

upon a barbeque brisket fundraiser at 

the local community center. 

“You all look like brothers,” the 

cowboy at the front door said 

with a grin. “We’ll give you the 

family discount.” 

For $5 apiece, we feasted on brisket, 

baked potatoes, salad, watermelon, 

lemon cake and brownie a la mode 

while a band played Marty Robbins’ 

greatest hits. 

Even better than the food and music 

was the general hospitality of everyone 

at the fundraiser. They asked about our 

bikes, pointed us in the right direction 

and gave us heartfelt encouragement. It 

was a huge emotional boost. 

Our bellies full of food and “El Paso” 

stuck in our heads, we headed east, 

stopping in the town of Beatty for an 

exotic dinner of gas station breakfast 

burritos, Cheetos, Funyuns and cheap 

beer before camping in the Fremont- 

Winema National Forest. 

Day 2: Better Days 

Ahead 

The next day was a bit of an 

emotional rollercoaster. It got off to an 

inauspicious start when the lifeblood 

of our trip, our instant coffee, tasted 

like a lemon-lime slush. (Pro tip: Don’t 

boil your coffee water with energy 

drink water.) 

After passing through the last of the 

gates on the OC&E Trail, we began 

to make our way due north, with a 

reservation at the Cowboy Dinner Tree 

just south of Silver Lake. Knowing we 

had hunks of meat as big as a 10-gallon 

hat awaiting us was key as we battled 

rainstorms for most of the next 50 

miles. Drained by the time we reached 

the CDT, we dried out over the woodburning 

stove in the restaurant’s gift 

shop before refueling with coffee, corn 

chowder, baked potatoes and four 

30-ounce steaks. 

Completely drenched, we opted to 

check into the Silver Lake Mercantile 

& Hotel for the night. It was one of the 

best decisions we made, as we were able 

to dry out our clothes and gear. Plus, we 

microwaved scrambled eggs 

with leftover steak for breakfast 

the next morning. 


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adventure 

Before reaching the Crooked 

River Canyon, riders on the 

Oregon Outback trail cross 

over the Bowman Dam, 22 

miles south of Prineville. 

FOR THE GEAR JUNKIES 

WHAT I RODE: Diamondback 

Haanjo Carbon Trail 

Tire size: 700x40 

WATER STORAGE: A pair 

of 32-ounce Hydro Flasks 

on my front fork and 24- 

and 20-ounce Hydro Flasks 

on my frame. We also brought 

a Platypus 2-liter GravityWorks 

filter system for the entire 

group. 

BIKEPACKING BAGS: Ortlieb 

seat pack bag, Ortlieb frame 

bag, Ortlieb handlebar bag, 

Ortlieb accessory bag, Novara 

top tube feed bag. 

TENT: MSR Mutha Hubba NX 

three-person tent. 

SLEEPING BAG: Big Agnes 

Skeeter SL 20. 

Day 3: And We’re Back! 

Powered by eggs and non-tainted coffee, 

we headed to desolate, beautiful, remote 

Fort Rock—this is the middle of nowhere, 

and it’s spectacular. 

Working with sunshine for the first time 

on our trip, we were able to enjoy the gradual 

changes in scenery, making our way into the 

Deschutes National Forest and its treasure 

trove of lava rocks. We’d been warned that 

a 20-mile stretch of red gravel was a soul 

sucker, but it seemed to pedal fine for us. 

Opting for a bit of a short day so we could 

camp in the Deschutes National Forest, we 

found a hunting campsite surrounded by 

mounds of lava. We celebrated the day of 

spectacular weather and scenery with our 

first campfire of the trip, grilling leftover 

steak from the night before. Cowboy Dinner 

Tree—the meal that keeps on giving. 

Day 4: Winding Down 

at the Wine Down 

Almost halfway through our trip, we 

started day four motivated by how far we’d 

come and the fact that we had dinner dates 

with our better halves, who were driving 

from Bend to meet us in Prineville. 

We exited the Deschutes National 

Forest about 2 miles past our camp and 

headed toward Highway 20 and the 

Crooked River Highway. One of the 

few state highways that’s still gravel, the 

Crooked River Highway is a treat as it 

meanders along Bear Creek. 

After our steepest climb of the trip—we 

went up nearly 800 feet in just 3 miles— 

we were rewarded with a bomb down to 

the Prineville Reservoir and lunch on the 

Crooked River. We even tried our hand 

at a little fly-fishing, but came up with 

zilch. It was OK, though, as the road into 

Prineville on the Crooked River may be 

one of the most beautiful of the 364-mile 

journey. It is 22 miles of pavement that 

flows and rolls like the river it mirrors. 

Bike repair and beers at the Good Bike 

Co. in Prineville were next, followed 

by triple cheeseburgers, tater tots and 

banana-chocolate-peanut butter malts at 

the Tastee Treet. 

As if the day could get better, 

we camped in a horse barn at the 


adventure 

Nate Wyeth, Lucas Alberg, Graham Hiemstra and Beau Eastes 

prepare for their fifth day on the road after staying in a horse stable 

on the Wine Down Ranch just north of Prineville. 

beautiful Wine Down Ranch on the 

McKay Creek, just outside the Ochoco 

National Forest. 

Day 5: “She thinks you’re 

crazy, and I think you’re 

idiots!” 

Fresh legs and fresh coffee pushed 

us through the start of day five in the 

Ochocos, which included an 1,800- 

foot climb, a 2,000-foot descent and 

four river crossings, all before lunch. 

(Pro tip No. 2: Don’t get cocky and 

bomb through river crossings. River 

wrecks, while outwardly fantastic, can 

be problematic.) 

Following Trout Creek, we made 

our way into Ashwood, a near ghost 

town 45 miles north of Prineville. We 

snacked outside the local grange—we 

had a day-old cobbler from the Tastee 

Treet someone had brought along 

as a lunch surprise—and ran into a 

fellow bikepacker headed the opposite 

direction. 

Ashwood to Antelope, where we 

ended up camping, was just 23 miles, 

but it began to feel like 230 as the 

day wore on. Unrefrigerated cobbler, 

perhaps? Tired, thirsty and burned 

out on energy bars and drinks, a local 

rancher stopped us on the way to 

Antelope to make sure we were OK. 

Assuring him we were fine, he cackled 

and pointed to the passenger in his 

work truck—a fine-looking Australian 

shepherd—and said, “She thinks you’re 

crazy, and I think you’re idiots!” 

A few minutes after our encounter 

with the rancher, we realized we were 

running out of water. We stopped at 

a house on the hill and asked if we 

could fill our Hydro Flasks. Melinda 

graciously allowed us to use her hose 

and refill every water bottle we owned. 

Before we were done, though, the same 

dusty truck pulled up the driveway. 

“By God, I asked if you needed 

anything!” said the aging rancher with 

a booming voice. 

Did we upset him? Was he mad we 

were at his house getting water? 

“Well, you get ‘er all filled up?” he 

said with that shit-eating grin again, 

knowing he’d scared the holy hell out 

of us. “You boys want a beer?” 

Dave gave us the best-tasting 

Bud Lights we’d ever had. A fourthgeneration 

Oregonian, he and Melinda 

regaled us for more than an hour with 

stories about the ranch, their battles 

with the Rajneesh in the 

1980s and youth wrestling 

in Culver. 


adventure 

BIKEPACKING TIPS 

GET YOUR BIKE FITTED: 

If you’re in the saddle 

for extended periods of 

time, especially with lots 

of equipment, make sure 

you’re not putting undue 

pressure on your back, 

knees or neck. “You can get 

away with (an ill-fitted) bike, 

say, when you’re mountain 

biking because you’re out 

of the saddle so much,” 

said Dan McGarigle of Pine 

Mountain Sports in Bend, 

who fitted all four of our 

bikes. “That’s not the case 

when you’re going on these 

longer rides and you’re not 

standing as much.” 

PRACTICE PACKING: Seriously, 

the art of the superb 

pack is just as important 

as training. Make sure your 

bikepacking bags don’t 

rattle, you don’t have too 

much stuff and that everything 

you want to bring 

actually fits. 

CALL AHEAD ABOUT 

SERVICES: Don’t count on 

a gas station or restaurant 

being open without calling 

and confirming hours 

beforehand. Especially in 

more rural and isolated 

parts of the country, it’s 

good to double-check operating 

hours. 

KNOW WHERE YOU’LL 

GET WATER: We were 

pretty good about this but 

forgot to fill up once and it 

cost us. Now, it led to free 

beers with the friendliest 

ranchers in Wasco County, 

but we easily could have 

been up McKay Creek 

without a paddle if Oregon 

wasn’t filled with amazing 

human beings. Check 

which businesses offer 

drinkable water and know 

where you’ll be able to find 

creek or river water 

to filtrate. 

To celebrate the end of their trip, the group stayed at The 

Heathman Hotel in Portland before returning to Central Oregon. 

After gorging on light beer and rural 

hospitality, we rode 9 more miles into 

Antelope. We were on our last legs hoping 

to find a city park to pitch our tents. 

Unfortunately, Antelope was smaller than 

we realized and it had no stores, let alone 

a city park. The first person we asked 

pointed this out and proceeded to offer us 

a place to camp in his yard. 

Relieved to have a place to lay our 

heads and again amazed at the kindness 

of strangers, we hadn’t even unpacked our 

gear for the day before we had a visitor show 

up on a riding lawnmower, welcoming us 

to Antelope with a cooler full of ice-cold 

Natural Lights. 

We talked life, love and the Aurora 

Borealis with Dale, the self-proclaimed 

lawnmower patrol of Antelope, before 

hitting the hay for one last night on the 

Oregon Outback. 

Day 6: Oregon, My Oregon 

Fewer than 75 miles from the Columbia 

River, our final day on the Outback flew 

by, even with our first flat tire of the 

trip and a breakfast stop in Shaniko for 

pepperoni sticks. 

Making great time through Wasco 

and Sherman counties, we eventually 

climbed atop Gordon Ridge, just east of 

the Deschutes River Canyon, from which 

we caught occasional glimpses of our 

hometown river. The last 15 miles of the 

trip into the Gorge were downhill, and 

when we finished we were a bit surprised— 

it felt like we hadn’t had a proper chance to 

brace for the end of the trip. 

A shuttle van picked us up and drove 

us to Portland, where we pampered 

ourselves with a night at the Heathman 

Hotel—which offers bike storage and free 

townie bikes to ride, both of which we took 

advantage of—before catching a train back 

to Eugene the next day. Waiting out the 

return train ride, reflecting on the highs 

and lows of the trip, everyone had his own 

favorite moments. But instead of certain 

climbs or mountain views or even river 

crossings, the memories everyone seemed 

to cherish the most was the surprise feast 

in Sprague River, the unexpected beers in 

and around Antelope and the barn shelter 

outside Prineville. 

By God, Oregon’s beautiful. 


We’ve literally pulled out all the stops to make your escape to Newport a breeze. Find your getaway driver 

and make a break for it. For travel and lodging information visit Adventure20.com. 

FLORENCE

lodging 

LODGING 

Each of Panacea’s seven Luxury 

Stargazer Wall Tents comes with 

a plush king or queen bed, organic 

linens and down comforters. 

Bathrooms are adjacent to each 

tent; try out the open-air showers, 

complete with lemongrass lavenderscented 

bath products and plush 

towels. The tent is stocked with 

robes, a gas fireplace, foot bath and 

faux-fur rugs. The highlight is the 

stargazer panel overhead—fall asleep 

under the natural light show of the 

night sky. 

Lodging 

Panacea at the Canyon 

written by Kim Cooper Findling 

IMAGINE SLEEPING outdoors under 

a sky full of stars … in a plush, kingsized 

bed. Panacea at the Canyon 

exemplifies “glamping”—the trend that 

brings glamour into the great wide 

open. This 40-acre luxury campground 

and spa, located in the high desert 

north of Terrebonne and overlooking 

the Crooked River Canyon, was 

conceived as a cure for modern life. 

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Guests sit poolside at Panacea at the Canyon. Each of 

Panacea’s wall tents includes a plush king or queen bed. The high desert surrounds the 

resort, which is located north of Terrebonne and overlooks Crooked River Canyon. 

Guests are encouraged to unplug and 

simply be, in nature, though with no 

shortage of creature comforts. Each 

“tent” is its own cozy, luxurious haven, 

with unobstructed views of the rimrock 

cliffs and ancient junipers that mark 

the property. 

15580 SW FS RD 5480 

CULVER 

panacearesort.com 

DINING 

Shared indoor and outdoor kitchens 

bring guests together for mealtimes. 

The dining pavilion has a variety 

of seating from sofas to tables for 

two, and a wood-fired pizza oven 

that comes to life Saturday nights, 

when hosts provide dinner. A 

continental breakfast is laid out each 

morning—think hardboiled eggs, 

coffee, croissants and blueberries. 

Near the pavilion are horseshoes 

and an archery range for post-meal 

entertainment. A fire pit awaits 

your late-night lounging and 

s’mores making. 

AMENITIES 

A steep trail leads to a shallow infinity 

pool with possibly the best views in 

Central Oregon. The Cascade Range 

spreads before you, just begging 

for the next sunset. A tipi serves 

as Panacea’s spa, offering energy 

treatments and massage within. Near 

the platform overlooking the canyon, 

a meditation labyrinth allows for 

walking contemplation. Owner Darren 

Kling doubles as a hot air balloon 

pilot—sign up for an early morning 

flight over the deep and rugged 

Crooked River Canyon. 


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Extend your beach season with an overnight stay 

at one of our unique hotels and vacation rentals. Throw in good 

eats and amazing brews at the famed, oceanfront Pelican Brewing 

Company, and you may never want to go home again.

trip planner 

Baker City 

Old glamour and great beer 


photography by Austin White 

PICTURE A HISTORIC, charming downtown 

straight out of an old Western. Add good local 

beer, friendly people and stunning scenery. 

You’re in Baker City, a town to visit in its 

own right and to use as a jumping-off point 

for adventure in Eastern Oregon. 

It might be hard to imagine now, but in the 

late 1800s Baker City was arguably the most 

glamorous stop in this state. Gold flowed 

from mines and residents made fortunes 

on timber. That dried up around the time 

of the Great Depression, leaving a shabby 

downtown filled with shuttered 

businesses and few prospects. That 

was then—this is now. 


Day 

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT The Geiser Grand Hotel was built in 1889. Its stained-glass ceiling 

has been restored with loving care. The Oregon Trail Interpretive Center brings history to life. 

HISTORY • BEER 

More than 100 buildings in the downtown historic district are 

on the National Register of Historic Places. The downtown is 

teeming with art galleries, restaurants and gift shops perfect for 

a visitor stroll. 

At the end of Main Street, the Geiser Grand Hotel is the obvious 

choice when deciding where to rest your head in Baker City. The 

hotel, built in 1889, closed in the 1960s and sat in disrepair until 

was lovingly restored in the late ’90s. The renovation uncovered 

and accurately replaced pieces of its former grandeur, including 

the incredible stained-glass ceiling and dark mahogany wood 

details. Dinner at the Palm Court inside the restaurant is the 

icing on the cake, with the Pacific Northwest’s best bounty on 

the menu. 

Once you’ve walked the downtown, head to the Bureau of 

Land Management’s National Historic Oregon Trail Interpretive 

Center, twenty minutes from downtown. 

The airy facility, built in 1992 among the rolling hills in a desolate 

landscape, is a fourth-grade fever dream for all Oregonians who 

spent a lot of time learning about this part of American history. 

Even non-native Oregonians played the Oregon Trail game on 

ancient Apple computers—this is those 1800s wagon trains come 

to life. Life-size, educational exhibits inside the center can teach 

even the most educated Oregonians a thing or two about the 

remarkable pioneers who made this trek. And the exhibits are 

only the beginning—the surrounding grounds provide a variety 

of trails, including some that get you up close and personal to the 

still-visible wagon ruts. 

While you’ve still got the history bug, check out the Chinese 

Cemetery, just east of Baker City. It features a monument to the 

Chinese who came to work in mines, construction and other 

occupations here in the 1800s. The Baker County Historical 

Society erected the monument, which was made in China and is 

a garden pavilion. 

In the cemetery, you’ll only find one marked grave—Lee Chue, 

who was buried there in 1938—otherwise most of the sites were 

temporary, and bodies were returned to their homeland. 

No trip to Baker City is complete without a stop at Barley 

Brown’s, the restaurant and taphouse a few doors down. 

Barley Brown’s Beer keeps it old-school—really, really good 

beer that will surprise you. It’s one of those places that makes you 

look behind you to make sure that yes, you’re still in Baker City, 

population 9,800. Belly up to the wooden bar and grab a pint of 

Pallet Jack IPA to start, then sample as many as you can. 

The restaurant has delicious pub fare and atmosphere 

that will remind you what Deschutes Brewery’s public 

house looked like before its expansion. 


Affordable 

Luxury 

Most people just assume we don’t make 

beer, wine and spirits 

out this way. 

While we’re waiting for them to figure it out, 

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visiteasternoregon.com

trip planner 

Day 

OUTDOOR ADVENTURE • BIG PLATES 

The historic dredge in Sumpter, 

a ghost town. 

Start the day at The Lone Pine Café, a 

small spot with big flavors—open daily for 

breakfast and lunch, the café has some of 

the best baked goods in town and brings 

a bit of modern flavor to town. Fuel up 

bigtime, because Baker City is the perfect 

jumping-off point to explore Eastern 

Oregon’s grandest landscapes. 

For starters, Hells Canyon is just a 

couple hours northeast, and a great spot 

to hook up with one of the several riverrafting 

companies based in Oxbow, Joseph, 

Halfway or other small towns for a trip 

down the Snake River that divides Oregon 

and Idaho. 

Beyond that, Baker City is close to 

Sumpter, a near ghost town with a state 

park complete with a huge and historic 

dredge that once used buckets to pull dirt 

up to be stripped of minerals. Just in case 

you didn’t quench your historical thirst 

with the Oregon Trail, Sumpter also has 

a historic steam train that runs on select 

weekends through the Sumpter Valley. 

Eagle Cap Wilderness is less than three 

hours away from Baker City and provides 

new definitions to the word “isolated.” 

There are backpacking routes and plenty of 

opportunities here for backcountry skiing 

in the winter. 

That’s just the start. The Wallowa- 

Whitman National Forest, which starts on 

Baker City’s doorstep, offers every outdoor 

activity you could think of—including 

hunting, horseback riding, hiking and 

mountain biking. The area has almost 

3,000 miles of trails and four 

wilderness areas. If you want to 

experience the rugged beauty of 


trip planner 

Head into the 

Eagle Cap 

Wilderness. 

Oregon without crowds, heading east out of Baker City is the 

spot to do it. 

And if you’re not sure you’re comfortable doing it on your 

own, check out Go Wild Tours. The Baker City-based tour 

company will get you out on single-day and multi-day tours 

into the Eagle Cap Wilderness or Blue Mountains—kayaking, 

hiking, mountain biking. You can spend a day at a ranch or go 

on an Eastern Oregon booze tour. 

BAKER CITY, OREGON 

EAT 

Barley Brown’s Brew Pub 

barleybrownsbeer.com 

Big Chief’s BBQ 

facebook.com/BIG-CHIEFS-BBQ-LLC 

Paizano’s Pizza 

paizanospizza.com 

Inland Café 

facebook.com/Inland-Cafe 

Lone Pine Café 

facebook.com/The-Lone-Pine-Cafe 

STAY 

Geiser Grand Hotel 

geisergrand.com 

PLAY 

National Historic Oregon Trail Interpretive Center 

trailtenders.org 

Chinese Cemetery 

Go Wild Tours 

gowildusa.com/about 


northwest destination 

A Stone’s Throw Bed & Breakfast offers scenic stays. 

Tiny Towns on Route 2 

A jaunt through history 

written by Harriet Baskas 

FAMILIAR TO winter sports aficionados making a 

beeline from the Seattle metro area up to the Stevens 

Pass ski area, Route 2, along part of the Cascade Loop 

Scenic Highway, offers enough scenic wonders and 

offbeat attractions to warrant a far more leisurely 

drive during summer or fall. 

Snohomish, with its historic downtown packed 

with restaurants and shops, is the ideal jumping 

off point for a Route 2 jaunt. The former “Antique 

Capital of the Northwest” now has a younger, hipper 

vibe and a fast-growing beer, wine and craft distilling 

industry. 

“With eight breweries in town, you’d think we’d be 

upset by all the competition,” said Frank Sandoval, 

who runs the SnoTown Brewery with his wife, Keri. 

“But the more breweries there are in town the more 

Snohomish becomes a destination for people who 

love to drink great beer.” 

In Monroe, about 10 miles from Snohomish, the 

Evergreen State Fairgrounds are home to the annual 

Evergreen State Fair, which runs for twelve days from 

late August through Labor Day, and the Evergreen 

Speedway, a top-10 NASCAR track hosting more 

than 140 events a year. Out on Route 2, there’s the 

family-friendly Reptile Zoo, with snakes, lizards, 

frogs, a two-headed turtle and an albino alligator 

named Baskar. 

About 8 miles from Monroe is Sultan and, along 

the Sultan River, the 85-acre Osprey Park. Amenities 

include 2 miles of forest hiking trails and plenty 

of footbridges sited for viewing spawning salmon, 

including the pink salmon that only run in oddnumbered 

years. For a hearty meal or snack, follow 

the locals to the Sultan Bakery, noted 

for oversized meal portions, sandwiches 

made with thick slices of homemade bread 


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northwest destination 

ROUTE 2, WASHINGTON 

EAT 

Andy’s Fish House 

1229 1st Street, Snohomish 

facebook.com/andysfishhouse 

Route2 Taproom & Grazing Place 

19837 State Route 2, Monroe 

roadtriptaprooms.com 

Sultan Bakery 

711 W Stevens Ave, Sultan 

River House Café 

at the Outdoor Adventure Center 

444 Avenue A, Index 

outdooradventurecenter.com 

Sky Deli 

Highway 2, Skykomish 

Cascadian Kitchen, 

Stevens Pass Mountain Resort 

Summit Stevens Pass, US Hwy 2 

stevenspass.com/site 

Stevens Pass 

Stevens Pass Mountain Resort offers mountain bike trails when snow isn’t falling. 

STAY 

Countryman Bed & Breakfast 

119 Cedar Ave, Snohomish 

countrymanbandb.com/ 

Best Western Sky Valley Inn 

19233 State Route 2, Monroe 

Dutch Cup Motel 

819 Main St., Sultan 

dutchcup.com/WELLC/Home.html 

A Stone’s Throw Bed & Breakfast 

406 Index Ave, Index 

acabinonthesky.com/astonesthrow/index.html 

Cascadia Inn, Café and Lounge 

210 Railroad Ave East, Skykomish 

historiccascadia.com 

PLAY 

SnoTown Brewery 

facebook.com/SnoTownBrewery 

Iron Goat Trail Interpretive Center 

wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/iron-goat-trail 

Stevens Pass Mountain Resort 

stevenspass.com 

Great Northern & Cascade Railway 

gncrailway.org 

Outdoor Adventure Center 

outdooradventurecenter.com 

Reptile Zoo 

thereptilezoo.org 

Osprey Park 

snohomish.org/explore/detail/osprey-park 

Wallace State Park 

parks.state.wa.us/289/Wallace-Falls 

and an overflowing pastry case filled 

with everything from cream-puffs and 

brownies to hefty apple cinnamon cups 

and Bigfoot maple bars. 

Continue 6 miles to Gold Bar and to 

the turnoff for Wallace Falls State Park, 

which has 12 miles of hiking trails and 

a spectacular 265-foot, three-tiered 

waterfall. Or stay on Route 2 for another 9 

miles and take a mile-long zig into Index, 

on the North Fork of the Skykomish River. 

There, Lynn Chamberlain and David 

Meier, proprietors of A Stone’s Throw Bed 

& Breakfast, can see 5,991-foot-tall Mount 

Index from their backyard and from their 

front porch can spot expert rock climbers 

making their way up the 1,000-foot vertical 

granite cliff known as the Town Wall. 

“The climbers sometimes sleep up there 

too,” Meier said. “You can often see them 

hanging there in colored sacks.” 

In town, the Outdoor Adventures 

Center offers equipment rentals, 

instruction and organized tours for 

everything from river rafting and kayaking 

to gold panning, hiking and horseback 

riding. “We get three types of customers,” 

said Outdoor Adventures founder Bill 

Corson. “Visitors to the region who get 

captivated by the beauty of Washington’s 

North Cascades Mountains; adventurers 

determined to climb the wall or get out 

on the river; and people from cities such 

as Seattle or Tacoma who wonder why 

they’ve lived in the Pacific Northwest all 

their lives and never knew all this existed.” 

From Index, it’s still 25 miles along 

Route 2 to the top of Stevens Pass. 

Recommended stops along the way 

include the restored railroad town of 

Skykomish, where visitors can tour a 

museum inside the town’s original 1898 

depot and take unlimited free rides on the 

⅛-scale trains of the Great Northern & 

Cascade Railway. 

At the Iron Goat Trail Interpretive 

Center, at milepost 58 on Route 2, there’s 

a red caboose on display and information 

boards sharing historic details of the 

route the Great Northern Railroad once 

took over the Cascades, the hotel and hot 

springs that drew tourists to the former 

resort town of Scenic, and the chilling 

story of the avalanche that caused the 

1910 Wellington Disaster, which claimed 

ninety-seven lives and a place in history 

as one of the country’s worst train-related 

tragedies. A 7-mile hiking trail following 

the railway’s route starts from here. 

End your adventure at the Stevens Pass 

Mountain Resort at the top of Stevens 

Pass, elevation 4,091 feet. Summer visitors 

have a wide menu of outdoor activities to 

choose from, including hiking, mountain 

biking, disc golf, trailhead yoga classes, 

oversized games of chess and Jenga, and 

scenic chairlift rides. 


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EXPLORE OREGON 

eat + stay + play 

ARBORBROOK 

VINEYARDS 

ArborBrook Vineyards is a boutique 

producer of exceptional handcrafted 

wines. Family-owned and operated, it 

is located in the heart of Oregon wine 

country in the Chehalem Mountain 

AVA. Visit the tasting room for a 

relaxing and casual wine tasting 

experience. Weekdays, 11– 4:30. 

Weekends, 11–5. 

503.538.0959 

17770 NE Calkins Lane 

NEWBERG 

arborbrookwines.com 

ASHLAND FOOD CO-OP 

Nestled in the beautiful Rogue Valley 

in Southern Oregon, Ashland Food 

Cooperative is the region’s first and only 

certified organic retailer. The Co-op has 

provided healthy, organic food to the 

community for more than forty years. AFC 

is dedicated to providing the best customer 

service and highest quality local, organic 

and non-GMO foods possible, as well 

as a selection of high quality and organic 

gourmet specialty foods, local wines and 

beers. AFC is a food adventure every day. 

541.482.2237 

237 N. First St. 

ASHLAND 

ashlandfood.coop 

CASCADE LAKES 

BREWING COMPANY 

On the road to Mt. Bachelor you’ll find 

the warm and welcoming Cascade 

Lakes Brewing Company Lodge. 

Enjoy 16 liquids on draft, a full bar, 

pool table and darts. You can also visit 

the flagship location in Redmond on 

7th Street. A local favorite for Taco 

Wednesdays, horseshoes and great 

hometown feel. Cheers! 

541.388.4998 

1441 SW Chandler Ave. #100 

BEND 

cascadelakes.com 

CENTRAL OREGON 

BUNGEE ADVENTURES 

Experience the thrill of the highest 

commercial bungee bridge in North 

America. Take the leap over the beautiful 

Crooked River, or just come out to enjoy 

the views of the Crooked River Canyon 

and the beautiful Cascade Mountains, only 

26 miles north of Bend, Oregon at the P.S. 

Ogden State Scenic Viewpoint. 

541-668-5867 

CROOKED RIVER GORGE 

oregonbungee.com 

THE CHATEAU AT 

THE OREGON CAVES 

NATIONAL MONUMENT 

Cool cave, warm hearth. En route 

between the California Redwoods 

and Crater Lake, this national historic 

landmark offers rustic charm and 

a friendly staff. Experience tours of 

capacious marble caverns ranging from 

family-friendly to adventurous. Explore 

hiking trails to alpine lakes and discover 

nearby wineries and attractions. Find 

lodging, fine dining, a regional artisan gift 

gallery and an authentic 1930s-style café. 

541.592.3400 

20000 Caves Hwy. 

CAVE JUNCTION 

oregoncaveschateau.com 

CHRISTMAS TREASURES 

A Christmas Experience! Christmas 

Treasures brings you the most treasured 

ornaments and items for gift giving and 

collecting. Start a new family tradition. 

Come experience the Old World charm, 

and see our unique products not only 

during the holiday season but all through 

the year. A family business for 24 years. 

Featuring: Jim Shore, Dept. 56, Possible 

Dreams, German Nutcrackers and 

Smokers, Nativities, Charming Tails, 

Michel Design Works and so much more. 

800.820.8189 

52959 McKenzie Hwy. 

BLUE RIVER 

christmas-treasures.com 


eat + stay + play 

EXPLORE OREGON 

HISTORIC BALCH HOTEL 

Relax. Reconnect. Rejuvenate. 

This boutique inn is truly a unique 

destination perched between the 

Columbia River Gorge and Oregon’s 

High Desert. This historic hotel 

offers vintage charm and elegance, 

surrounded by sun and spacious rolling 

golden hills, just south of The Dalles 

and I-84. It’s a short drive but you’ll feel 

like you’re a world away. On-site dining 

and spa services. 

541.467.2277 

40 Heimrich St. 

DUFUR 

balchhotel.com 

MILL INN BED 

& BREAKFAST 

Mill Inn Bed & Breakfast offers 10 

unique rooms in its boutique hotel. 

Each room features luxurious linens, its 

own theme, beautiful furnishings and 

comforts of home, and they’re priced 

to fit your budget. Check out the Mill 

Inn website for information on your 

included homemade hearty breakfast! 

541.389.9198 

642 NW Colorado Ave. 

BEND 

millinn.com 

Rabbit Tales Georgia Gerber 

NW BY NW GALLERY 

Original art by regional masters defines 

this destination gallery. Celebrating 30 

years of excellence with public sculpture 

by gallery artists throughout Cannon 

Beach. NW By NW Gallery represents 

a collector’s selection of bronze 

sculpture by renowned public sculptor 

Georgia Gerber. Visit the Sculpture 

Garden featuring contemporary 

sculptor Ivan McLean. 

503.436.0741 

232 N Spruce St. 

CANNON BEACH 

nwbynwgallery.com 

DANCIN VINEYARDS 

2017 Oregon Winery of the Year - 

WPNW DANCIN is a love story 

and the marriage of science and art. 

Situated in the vineyard and located 

just minutes from Ashland, Medford 

and Jacksonville, our tasting room and 

patio are the perfect setting to drink 

in the views of Table Rocks, Mount 

McLoughlin and the Rogue Valley while 

savoring our award-winning wines 

along with our artisan wood-fired pizzas 

and much more, served tableside! 

541.245.1133 

4477 South Stage Road 

MEDFORD 

dancinvineyards.com 

OREGON GARDEN 

RESORT 

Escape to Oregon Garden Resort, a 103- 

room, pet-friendly resort set amid an 

80-acre botanical wonder showcasing 

thousands of plants in more than 20 

colorful specialty gardens. There’s 

something for everyone! Explore rare 

conifers, beautiful water features, garden 

art, a 400-year-old Signature Oak tree, 

a fun garden just for kids, pet-friendly 

plants and more. After exploring, relax 

in the resort with a spa treatment, a 

gourmet dinner and cocktail and live 

music nightly. Fun events happen 

throughout the year, including an annual 

Brewfest over Father’s Day weekend, 

and Christmas in the Garden featuring 

lights, ice skating and artisan vendors 

each holiday season. 

503.874.2500 

895 W Main St. 

SILVERTON 

oregongardenresort.com 

OTTO’S SAUSAGE 

KITCHEN 

For more than 80 years, Otto’s Sausage 

Kitchen has been using the same 

traditional recipes and handcrafted 

techniques to make delicious highquality 

sausage. The secrets to Otto’s 

sausages are in the handcrafted artisan 

techniques, recipes and, of course, 

the one-of-a-kind smokehouse—with 

each secret handed down for four 

generations. Every sausage is gluten free, 

with high-quality beef, pork or chicken. 

See for yourself what Otto’s has to offer. 

For those who are unable to visit, check 

out Otto’s e-store to buy your favorite 

sausages or apparel. 

503.874.2500 

895 W Main St. 

SILVERTON 

oregongardenresort.com 


1859 MAPPEDThe points of interest below are culled from 

stories and events in this edition of 1859. 

Live 

Think 

Explore 

24 

Airlie Hills Farm 

62 

Discover African Art 

100 

Oregon Vortex 

26 

Mount Angel Oktoberfest 

66 

Side A Brewing 

102 

End of Outback Trail 

34 

Winchester Inn 

68 

University of Oregon 

112 

Panacea at the Canyon 

38 

Wong Potatoes 

70 

Rescue Divers 

114 

Baker City 

56 

Portland Pin-Ups 

72 

Rockford Grange 

120 

Tiny Towns on Route 2 


Join 

1859 

join 1859 wine club and experience some of oregon's finest wines. 

CHoose crisp whites, jammy reds or a little of both. 

Sign up as a new club member this month, and your first 

shipment will be just $1. 

www.1859wineclub.com/join-the-club

Until Next Time 

Death and Rebirth 

on Vista Ridge 

written by Adam Sawyer 

ON AUGUST 26TH, 2011, a lightning strike on the north side of 

Mt. Hood produced a smolder that would eventually ignite and 

become the Dollar Lake Fire. By the time autumn rains extinguished 

the blaze, it had consumed more than 6,300 acres of forest. At the 

beginning of 2015, a two-year dalliance with heroin had spiralled 

into full-blown addiction and transformed my life into a similarly 

decimated landscape. 

When I entered rehab in March of that year, I had already lost my 

best friend as well as my girlfriend, and a hard-fought, burgeoning 

career as an outdoor writer was being actively flushed down the 

toilet. After treatment, I moved into a friend’s house and began 

the painfully slow process of feeling human again. What the Dollar 

Lake fire had done to the trees of the Mt. Hood Wilderness, heroin 

replicated on my endorphin receptors. Recovery, in both cases, 

would require time and patience. 

Neural receptors can eventually be repaired. One of the things 

that helps the process along is fresh air and exercise. The outdoors 

of Oregon is what inspired me to become a writer in the first place. 

Before losing my way two years prior, hiking had been my drug of 

choice. It would now become a critical component in returning to 

health. But it was slow going. I fatigued easily and wasn’t getting 

the same mood boost that climbing a mountain or finding a new 

waterfall used to elicit without fail. This was expected. Again, it 

would take time. 

In the half decade since the fire, hikers checked in on a stretch of 

the forest that formerly enjoyed a canopied Vista Ridge Trail to an 

aptly named Eden Park. The first couple of years, there wasn’t much 

to report. But then came the avalanche lilies. The ethereal, white 

lilies seemingly push receding snowfields up the mountains every 

spring. And a few seasons ago, spectacular carpets of countless lilies 

announced the rebirth of the wilderness with a floral roar. I saw a set 

of photos of the phenomenon posted on a local hiking forum and 

needed to witness it in person. But by the time I was able to go, the 

show was over and I would need to wait another year. 

So in late spring of 2016, I watched the hiking and wildflower 

forums with baited breath, When the time came, I went. Somehow 

among the scorched trees, life had come back in spectacular 

fashion. Bluebird skies, white lilies and black snags produced a 

palette of colors and textures unlike anything I had ever witnessed, 

and I was moved to tears. In that moment the parallels between 

the landscape and my life were too much to bear. That afternoon in 

June, Mother Nature put her hands firmly on my shoulders and told 

me everything would be OK. She said I’d feel strong again, find love 

again, and eventually be myself once more. She reminded me to 

take care of my body and soul and to come see her often. I obliged. 

She kept her promise. And today, I am eternally grateful for death 

and rebirth on Vista Ridge. 


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