Climber September/October 2017

Bob Moulton following the
2nd pitch of Slow Ledge Climb
(VS 4b). Photo: Don Sargeant
Another stunning line at HVS 5b
through this buttress is Jubilee Climb,
which picks an intricate line up to
what appears to be a gritstone buttress
on the third pitch. From below the
problem looks obvious and easy.
However, on closer acquaintance
gaining the steep crack and making it to
the easier ground above proves to be
rather demanding. Feeling more like a
proper gritstone tussle up a HVS crack, it
gets surprisingly few ascents for such a
fine route.
For many the main and final buttress
on the West Wing is the Plexus Buttress.
Which for me is really the best crag
in the Pass, as all the climbing is on
the gritsone-esque rock, but don’t tell
anyone. Nexus and Plexus are two stunning
E1 5b routes which require a little
technique, boldness and with crack and
roof climbing to overcome. However, Ten
Degrees North (E2 5b) is my personal favourite
in this area and probably the best
E2 in North Wales with the exception of
maybe Mousetrap over on Anglesey.
The first time I climbed Ten Degrees
North I found myself in a rather
awkward situation, the blank groove
had forced me to start bridging and
palming off with my hands and before
I knew what I was doing I was body
bridging, both hands on one wall and
feet on the other, facing down towards
my belayer. In that moment of realisation
as to what I was doing all I could say
was: “I think I might have made a
wrong move.” As it was I managed to
un-contort myself and continue upwards.
I really don’t know
why Dinas Mot
is so overlooked
by climbers
It is perhaps this memory that sticks
in my mind, one of those great climbs
with even better friends. If E2 is too
easy then The Windmill (E3 5c) with
climbing on yet more superb rock will
sort you out.
The only problem with the Plexus
Buttress is when news gets out that it is
in condition climbers flock there like
seagulls to a bag of chips on the
Llandudno promenade. If you find
yourself on the Plexus Buttress and the
routes are all taken then you can fill
some time with one of the single pitch
routes on the right such as Gardd which
has a gnarly off-width at the top for HVS
5a. Alternatively Hornets Attack Victor
Mature is a great little E2 5c, which has a
rather spectacular finale up a thin slab/
arête. Either of these routes will fill time
to let the teams ahead to clear out. You
also get to watch the action on the
Plexus Buttress.
I really don’t know why Dinas Mot
is so overlooked by climbers. Although
sitting opposite the Cromlech means it
has tough competition and who wants
to climb in the shade when most of the
time you can nip up to The Cromlech,
Clogwyn y Crochan or Carreg Wasted
and get a tan, or at least some warmth.
The thing to remember is that during
those few precious days when the sun
is too strong to climb and the rock is
dry, then Dinas Mot comes into is
own. This, in itself, makes the place
that whole much more special to climb
on. Remember though every summer’s
evening about 6-7pm the Western
Slab of the Nose comes into the sun.
Just remember to try and get up there
and enjoy some of these amazing
routes. n
30 Sep–Oct 2017 www.climber.co.uk