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OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong><br />

WheretraveLer.com<br />

Budapest<br />

®<br />

Recommended by your Concierge<br />

CAFe<br />

BUDAPEST<br />

CONTEMPORARY ART FESTIVAL<br />

WHAT’S LEFT<br />

Remnants of the<br />

communist past<br />

PLUS<br />

WINE & DINE<br />

MAJOR EXHIBITS<br />

MUSIC&DANCE


“Quality gastronomy without compromises.”<br />

1092 Budapest, Ráday utca 4.<br />

Wednesday – Sunday 18:30 - 23:00<br />

+36 1 219 0696<br />

www.costes.hu<br />

1051 Budapest, Vigyázó Ferenc utca 5.<br />

Monday – Sunday 6:30-23:00<br />

+36 1 219 0696<br />

www.costesdowntown.hu


Széchenyi<br />

tér<br />

Radisson Blu<br />

Béke Hotel<br />

Continental Hotel<br />

Boscolo Budapest<br />

Fraser<br />

Residence<br />

II. János Pál<br />

pápa tér<br />

Budapest October <strong>2017</strong><br />

the guide<br />

11 ENTERTAINMENT<br />

Venue & Cinema listings<br />

A jazz concert by<br />

Eszter Váczi & Quartet<br />

14 Art & Museums<br />

Cultural site listings<br />

The chilling story of the Titanic<br />

17 Shops & SERVICES<br />

Boutique & Store listings<br />

The fall/winter collection of<br />

Hungarian designers<br />

19 Wellness<br />

Spa & Salon listings<br />

Places to enjoy colorful autumn walks<br />

21 dining<br />

Restaurant listings<br />

October Fest in Budapest<br />

6<br />

Contents<br />

3 HOT DATES<br />

1956 Commemoration, Design Week, Cafe Budapest Festival,<br />

Pig Sausage Festival, Chimney Cake Festival<br />

4 WHERE NOW<br />

Exhibitions: Fluxus and Friends, photography by Robert Capa, Footwear in Hungary,<br />

Footwear Adventures, Highlights of Hungarian Art – Events: Art Market – Modern<br />

Circus: Recirquel – Modern Dance: Huang Yi and Kuka – Concerts: Budapest Festival<br />

Orchestra in the Liszt Academy, classical and church music in the Matthias Church<br />

and the Basilica – Opera: Figaro 2.0 – Dance: traditional folk<br />

Feature<br />

7 WHAT’S LEFT<br />

Remnants of the communist past.<br />

21<br />

28 ESSENTIALS<br />

Transportation & Embassy listings<br />

ALSO inside<br />

2 Editor’s Letter<br />

29 MY FAVORITE BUDAPEST…<br />

32 <strong>where</strong> it’s at<br />

on the cover<br />

Dancers on the walls of<br />

skyscrapers, on the glass<br />

windows of office buildings,<br />

and over depths. BANDALOOP<br />

re-imagines dance. Their<br />

performance on Oct. 20, 5pm at<br />

Kálvin Square is part of the CAFé<br />

Budapest Fest (see Hot Dates, p. 3).<br />

Photo: Corey Rich<br />

mapS<br />

pages 30-31<br />

Central Budapest<br />

and beyond<br />

www.<strong>where</strong>traveler.com 1


WELCOME | Editor’s Letter<br />

October Blues<br />

The storks have left for warmer<br />

regions, days are getting shorter, and<br />

leaves have started falling. But no<br />

need for the October blues, there<br />

are still lots of enjoyable events,<br />

some still al fresco (the Chimney<br />

Cake Festival, the Pálinka & Sausage<br />

Festival, and the Oktoberfest),<br />

others indoors (Cafe Budapest Fest,<br />

Design Week, the Art Market). Plus there is the usual selection of firstrate<br />

concerts, performances and exhibitions in Budapest’s beautiful old and modern theaters<br />

and museums. Autumn also means new fall fashion by Hungarian designers, and the perfect weather for<br />

a walk among the leaves of red and gold. On the 23rd of this month, Hungary commemorates its uprising<br />

against Soviet-communism in 1956. In our article on page seven, we give you an overview of monuments<br />

and other edifices referring to those turbulent days.<br />

HENK HIRS<br />

Editor in Chief<br />

Where Budapest<br />

Your traveling companion since 1936®<br />

<strong>where</strong>®<br />

magazine<br />

publisher<br />

András Wiszkidenszky<br />

CREATIVE<br />

Editor in chief<br />

Henk Hirs<br />

Art Director<br />

Balázs Milléte<br />

DEPUTY Editor<br />

Nóra Somogyi<br />

Contributing writer<br />

Runa Hellinga<br />

advertising<br />

SALES & office manager<br />

Viktória Novák<br />

UG | MVP<br />

Chairman<br />

William S. Morris III<br />

President & CEO<br />

William S. Morris IV<br />

EXECUTIVE<br />

President<br />

Donna W. Kessler<br />

vice president<br />

Angela E. Allen<br />

MANAGING director EUROPE<br />

Chris Manning<br />

Creative<br />

Chief Creative Officer<br />

Haines Wilkerson<br />

design Director<br />

Jane Frey<br />

creative coordinator<br />

Beverly Mandelblatt<br />

CHIEF TRAVEL EDITOR<br />

Geoff Kohl<br />

BUDAPEST Affiliate<br />

Where BUDAPEST<br />

Margit Krt. 1. 1027 Budapest<br />

Phone/Fax: (+36 1) 781 9483<br />

E-mail: <strong>where</strong>@unitedguides.hu<br />

ISSN 1217-5714<br />

Where® Magazine is available at: Hotel rooms (5-4-3<br />

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In the interest of environmental preservation, every<br />

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MAGYAR SZÁLLODAPORTÁSOK<br />

„ARANYKULCS” EGYESÜLETE MEMBERS OF<br />

THE U.I.C.H. LES CLEFS D‘OR ORGANISATION<br />

<strong>where</strong>traveler.com<br />

2 WHERE London BUDAPEST I JANUARY I OCTOBER 2013 <strong>2017</strong>


HOT DATES | OCTOBER<br />

Monday<br />

23<br />

FRIDAY-SUNDAY<br />

6-15<br />

DESIGN WEE!K<br />

↔ Ten days of<br />

exhibitions, conferences,<br />

workshop tours and shows at more than 120 locations all over town on<br />

modern design – from industrial and tech design to fashion, jewellery,<br />

and food. There are both Hungarian and interantional designers, guest<br />

of honor this year is Denmark. www.designweek.hu<br />

FRIDAY-SUNDAY<br />

6-22<br />

CAFe BUDAPESTFEST<br />

→ This two-week long autumn<br />

Contemporary Art Festival offers<br />

dozens of performances, shows and<br />

musical programs, - Hungarian and<br />

international - in all sorts of categories.<br />

www. cafebudapestfest.hu<br />

photO: CENTER right — Tamás Gacs<br />

1956 COMMEMORATION<br />

▲ On this national holiday, the 1956 uprising<br />

against hard-line communist rule and Soviet<br />

occupation will be commemorated at<br />

various locations. The spontaneous uprising<br />

started on the 23rd of October and after<br />

some initial fighting the Soviet-backed<br />

regime was toppled. Reform-communist<br />

Imre Nagy was chosen head of a new,<br />

broad government, but when he declared<br />

that Hungary would leave the Moscowcontrolled<br />

Warsaw Pact, Soviet tanks rolled<br />

back into Budapest on November 4 and<br />

crushed all resistance, leaving hundreds of<br />

people dead. See also our article on page 7.<br />

FRIDAY-SUNDAY<br />

13-15<br />

PIG SAUSAGE<br />

FESTIVAL<br />

↔ The Pig Slaughtering and<br />

Sausage Festival is about the<br />

traditional way of preparing<br />

pig meat. It offers family<br />

programs, folklore shows, pig slaughtering and a<br />

giant sausage fare. Hungarian Railway Museum – Listing<br />

p.15, www.disznotoroskolbaszfesztival.hu<br />

FRIDAY-SUNDAY<br />

13-15<br />

CHIMNEY CAKE FESTIVAL<br />

▼ The sweet pastry kürtőskalács<br />

(Chimney Cake) – sweet dough with sugar<br />

spun around a cone-shaped spit – takes center stage. Gesztényes kert,<br />

Buda XII, Jagelló út, Off Map (A6), www.kurtoskalacsfesztival.hu<br />

www.<strong>where</strong>traveler.com 3


OCTOBER<br />

WHERE NOW<br />

The month’s top entertainment, exhibits, attractions, and more<br />

MODERN DANCE<br />

HUANG YI AND KUKA<br />

● Trafó is the main venue for modern theater, with a program<br />

full of thought-provoking performances. Taiwanese dancer,<br />

choreographer, inventor, and videographer Huang Yi’s pioneering<br />

work is steeped in his fascination with the partnership between<br />

humans and robots. He interweaves continuous movement with<br />

mechanical and multimedia elements to create a form of dance<br />

which corresponds with the flow of data, effectively making the<br />

performer a dancing instrument. According to The New York<br />

Times, it is “More than just an amusing exercise in blending dance<br />

and technology.” Oct 5 and 6, 8pm, Trafó – Listing p.12, www.trafo.hu<br />

4 WHERE London BUDAPEST I JANUARY I OCTOBER 2013 <strong>2017</strong>


ART MARKET<br />

INSPIRING GATHERING<br />

↔ You can mingle and browse for four days<br />

at the yearly Budapest Art Market, located<br />

in a huge former industrial space in the<br />

center of Buda. The market allows galleries<br />

and exhibitors from Hungary and over 35<br />

other countries, many of them from Central<br />

and Eastern Europe, to showcase their latest<br />

collections and introduce the fresh faces of<br />

the contemporary art scene. Last year, this<br />

attracted over 30,000 international visitors.<br />

Entry is free. October 12-15, Millenáris – Listing<br />

p.11, www.artmarketbudapest.hu<br />

EXHIBIT<br />

FLUXUS AND FRIENDS<br />

→ Fluxus was one of the 20th century’s most<br />

elemental movements, based on a spirit of<br />

rebellion against the commercial art market,<br />

elitism, and the conventions of both art and<br />

society but also eluding rigid definitions. The<br />

Fluxus Manifest was rebellious and as such<br />

can be interpreted as a continuation of the<br />

movements of Dada, surrealism, action art, and<br />

the ephemeral art of the 1960s. Selected from<br />

the collection of Maria and Walter Schnepel’s<br />

Cultural Foundation, the hundreds of works by<br />

the most famous international and Hungarian<br />

Fluxus artists represent a broad palette of the<br />

movement. Ludwig Museum – Listing p.14, www.<br />

ludwigmuseum.hu<br />

EXHIBIT<br />

OPERA<br />

EXHIBITS<br />

EXPERIMENTAL SHOES<br />

The museum has selected various<br />

FIGARO 2.0<br />

The splendid Opera House on Andrassy<br />

MODERN PHOTOGRAPHY<br />

Budapest has two museums for<br />

Hungarian and international artists<br />

Boulevard is closed for renovations, so<br />

photography, the Capa Center and<br />

and designers with their own view<br />

the Erkel theater is <strong>where</strong> operas are<br />

the Mai Manó Museum, both located<br />

on shoes and shoe design, Is it a shoe<br />

being performed right now. “Figaro<br />

on the same street. The Capa Center<br />

photo: top right — László Mészáros<br />

when you can actually walk on it or is it<br />

a shoe when your foot fits in it? Do we<br />

still need leather as material? Can we<br />

print our shoes five years from<br />

now? This show presents<br />

work that makes you<br />

look twice. Till Oct<br />

22, Műcsarnok<br />

– Listing<br />

p.14, www.<br />

mucsarnok.hu<br />

2.0” is a modern version of the comedic<br />

opera by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.<br />

The music and the story are Mozart’s,<br />

but the setting is in the modernday<br />

world. In Hungarian<br />

with English surtitles.<br />

Oct 1, 2, 8-13, 11am<br />

or 4pm, Erkel<br />

Theater –<br />

Listing p.12,<br />

www.opera.hu<br />

is named after the most famous<br />

Hungarian photographer of all time,<br />

Robert Capa. It is currently showcasing<br />

a selection of his oeuvre. The Mai<br />

Manó, which was once the home and<br />

studio of the famous photographer<br />

of the Habsburg court with that<br />

name, has several smaller temporary<br />

exhibitions and a wonderful bookshop<br />

on photography. www.capacenter.hu,<br />

www.maimano.hu, Listing p. 14<br />

www.<strong>where</strong>traveler.com 5


WHERE NOW<br />

CIRCUS<br />

MODERN MAGIC<br />

→ Acclaimed Hungarian<br />

modern circus “Recirquel”<br />

performs two shows this<br />

month, full of their magical<br />

acrobatics, enchanting play<br />

with light and color, and<br />

spectacular effects. “Non Solus”<br />

is a modern and sensual ballet<br />

by two men (Oct 28), while<br />

“Paris de Nuit” takes you back<br />

to the nightlife scenes of the<br />

city of light that was Paris in the<br />

1930s (Oct 29). 7pm, Palace of<br />

Arts – Listing p.11, www.mupa.hu<br />

CONCERTS<br />

LISZT ACADEMY<br />

↔ The Budapest Festival<br />

Orchestra iwill give two<br />

concerts in the Grand<br />

Hall of the wonderful<br />

Art Nouveau music<br />

academy. They will<br />

play music by Mozart<br />

and Haydn, conductor<br />

is Gábor Takács-Nagy,<br />

and Piotr Anderszewski<br />

(photo) plays the piano.<br />

Oct 28, 7:45 pm and Oct 29,<br />

3:30 pm, Liszt Academy – Listing<br />

p.11, www.zeneakademia.hu<br />

EXHIBITION<br />

TUMULTUOUS TIMES<br />

▲ The Hungarian National Gallery in<br />

the Buda Palace is the place to go if<br />

you’re interested in paintings by 18th,<br />

19th and 20th century Hungarian artists.<br />

There are many works by internationally<br />

known Hungarian painters, such as<br />

impressionist Rippl-Rónai, expressionist<br />

Tivadar Csontváry (“a genius” according<br />

to Picasso), and avant-garde artist from<br />

the interwar period Béla Uitz. Mihály<br />

Munkácsy is a 19th century genrepainter<br />

who is less known abroad.<br />

Hungarian National Gallery – Listing<br />

p.14, www.mng.hu<br />

CONCERTS<br />

MATTHIAS CHURCH<br />

The beautiful Matthias Church<br />

on Castle Hill is also a venue for<br />

concerts by various ensembles,<br />

from well-known Hungarian<br />

choirs to the Hungarian Virtuosi<br />

Chamber Orchestra and the Duna<br />

String Orchestra. They perform<br />

classical works in the breathtaking<br />

surroundings of the splendid<br />

church <strong>where</strong> King Matthias was<br />

married and emperor FranzJospeh<br />

and empress Elisabteh (Sissi)<br />

were crowned king and queen<br />

of Hungary. Oct 7 and 14, 8pm,<br />

Matthias Church – Listing p.11,<br />

www.eng.concertbudapest.com<br />

EXHIBITION<br />

FOOTWEAR ADVENTURES<br />

This exhibition explores the rich<br />

variety of styles of shoes and other<br />

footwear from Hungary and its<br />

neighboring countries (also called<br />

The Carpathian Basin) in the past<br />

two hundred years. All artifacts<br />

selected for this exhibition are<br />

either home-made, or were crafted<br />

by cobblers or boot makers.<br />

Ethnography Museum – Listing p.14,<br />

www.neprajz.hu<br />

CONCERTS<br />

HOLY MUSIC<br />

St. Stephen’s Basilica also has<br />

impressive acoustics and a<br />

world-famous historic pipe organ.<br />

It organizes regular Cathedral<br />

Organ Concerts on Mondays at<br />

5 pm and on Fridays at 7 pm.<br />

These concerts feature singers<br />

and musicians who will present<br />

famous organ works and church<br />

arias. On Friday Oct 6, there will be<br />

a special performance of Mozart’s<br />

Requiem while on Monday, Oct<br />

13, Verdi’s Requiem will be<br />

played. Listing<br />

p.12, www.<br />

organconcert.hu<br />

SHOWS<br />

FOLK DANCES<br />

The traditional Hungarian folk<br />

music and authentic dances that<br />

inspired classical composers such<br />

as Franz Liszt, Johannes Brahms,<br />

Zoltán Kodály, and Béla Bartók<br />

are performed by the Rajkó Folk<br />

Ensemble and Orchestra, the<br />

Danube Folk Ensemble, and the<br />

Hungarian State Folk Ensemble.<br />

There are regular shows at 8pm<br />

in the Danube Palace in Pest.<br />

Each of these concert consists<br />

of two 40-45 minute acts with<br />

an intermission in between.<br />

Danube Palace – Listing p.12,<br />

www.budapestfolk.com<br />

photo: top LEFT — Eszter Gordon, center left — MG de Saint Venant<br />

6 WHERE London BUDAPEST I JANUARY I OCTOBER 2013 <strong>2017</strong>


WHAT’S LEFT<br />

REMNANTS OF THE COMMUNIST PAST / BY HENK HIRS<br />

There isn’t really much left in Budapest that is connected to the communist past, at least not in physical or<br />

tangible terms. Most red stars and proletarian statues have long since been removed, street names have been<br />

changed, and the dilapidated and somber pre-1989 streetscape has been replaced by a totally renovated, bright<br />

and lively European city, at least in the center. But there are some places <strong>where</strong> the past is still palpable.<br />

STATUE PARK<br />

Some of the communist era statues that were<br />

removed after 1990 are located in the Memento<br />

Park on the outskirts of Buda. A few are very oldfashioned<br />

“proletarian” but others remarkably<br />

modern and vivid. You’ll also see Stalin’s foot,<br />

the only surviving part of the giant statue near<br />

Heroes’ Square that was toppled during the 1956<br />

uprising. Memento Park – Listing page 15.<br />

www.<strong>where</strong>traveler.com 7


3<br />

1<br />

1<br />

BAMBI ESZPRESSZÓ<br />

Both the exterior and interior of this café and terrace have hardly changed<br />

since it opened its doors 50 years ago. It is still a very popular place, possibly<br />

because it reminds Hungarians of the positive aspects of the decades of<br />

goulash-communism (1960-1989), when Hungary was known as “the happiest<br />

barracks” of the Eastern Block. The regime placated the population by<br />

allowing small freedoms and providing for basic needs such as jobs for<br />

everyone, pensions, education and basic consumer goods (payed for by<br />

loans from the West). Buda II, Frankel Leó utca 2/4, Map B2.<br />

2 1956 MONUMENTS<br />

A big monument on Dózsa György street (photo), on the<br />

place <strong>where</strong> the Stalin statue used to be, commemorates<br />

the failed 1956 uprising against hard-line communism and<br />

Soviet occupation Near Parliament, on Martyrs Square, is<br />

a statue of the leader of the uprising, reform-communist<br />

Imre Nagy, who was hanged after a staged trial. There are<br />

other monuments, small and big, spread all over town.<br />

Dózsa György út, Map G3 and Vértanúk tere, Map C3.<br />

2<br />

8 WHERE London BUDAPEST I JANUARY I OCTOBER 2013 <strong>2017</strong>


4<br />

3 SOVIET MONUMENT<br />

4<br />

It commemorates the victory of the Red Army in 1945. This was a “liberation”<br />

for some, first and foremost Jewish Hungarians in the ghetto, but a humiliating<br />

defeat for most others as Hungary had been a staunch ally of Hitler’s<br />

Germany. The pillaging and raping by Soviet soldiers didn’t help, either, nor<br />

did the fact that the liberators decided to stay. In a 1991 agreement with<br />

Russia, it is stipulated that this Soviet monument cannot be demolished, but it<br />

is no accident that it is now squeezed in between the US embassy and a statue<br />

of US-president Ronald Reagan. Szabadság (Freedom) Square, Map D4.<br />

HOUSE OF TERROR<br />

This building on Andrássy Boulevard first housed the<br />

headquarters of the fascist Arrow Cross Party (until 1945)<br />

and was then seamlessly taken over, including staff, torture<br />

chambers and gallows, by the communist secret police.<br />

The exhibition deals mostly with the communist crimes of<br />

the Stalinist era, roughly from 1948 till 1960. You do really<br />

need the audio guide (English and other languages) to be<br />

able to follow. House of Terror Museum – Listing p.16.<br />

www.<strong>where</strong>traveler.com 9


THE GUIDE<br />

COFFEE HOUSE CHARM<br />

● Budapest has a tradition of grand old coffee houses (kávéház) dating back to the late 1800s and<br />

early 1900s. These were places <strong>where</strong> gentry and bourgeois rubbed shoulders with artists, writers and<br />

newspaper journalists (some of whom wrote their books and articles there). The communists came to see<br />

the places as dens of latent dissent, so most were closed. But luckily, today, there are hundreds again, from<br />

cozy neighborhood hang-outs and comfy modern chains to beautifully restored old-world grand cafés<br />

like August (pictured), the Bedö House, Centrál Kávéház, Gerbeaud, New York, and the Opera Café.<br />

See our Listings on p. 22.<br />

10 WHERE London BUDAPEST I JANUARY I OCTOBER 2013 <strong>2017</strong>


ENTERTAINMENT<br />

Star<br />

Screening<br />

Live from the MET: Norma<br />

The Uránia Film Theater is a<br />

wonderful cinema in Moorish Art<br />

Nouveau style that also offers live<br />

HD broadcasts of major international<br />

operas and theaters in global cities (New<br />

York, London, Paris, St. Petersburg),<br />

documentaries from international<br />

museums (Van Gogh, Tate, Rijksmuseum),<br />

and screenings of famous pop concerts<br />

of the past 50 years. One of this month’s<br />

highlights is the opera “Norma” by<br />

Vincenzo Bellini from the MET in New York.<br />

Oct 7 and 29, Uránia Film Theater – Pest VIII,<br />

Rákóczi út 21., www.urania-nf.hu Map E5<br />

Performance Venues<br />

A38 SHIP Rock the boat nightly at one of Budapest’s<br />

top music and dance venues, docked on<br />

the Danube. Buda XI, moored south of Petőfi<br />

Bridge. T: (+36 1) 464 3940, www.a38.hu Map E8<br />

artus Avant-garde theater and dance performances<br />

by the Gábor Goda Company, along<br />

with art exhibitions and concerts. Buda XI, Sztregova<br />

u. 7. T: (+36 30) 820 3865, www.artus.hu<br />

átrium THEATER A cultural presentation space<br />

offering English-language theater performances,<br />

dance shows, live concerts. Buda II, Margit<br />

krt. 55. T: (+36 1) 317 9338, www.atriumfilmszinhaz.hu<br />

Map A3<br />

BUDAPEST CONGRESS center Extensive arena<br />

welcoming crowd-drawing headliners. Buda XII,<br />

Jagelló út 1-3. T: (+36 1) 372 5400, www.bcc.hu<br />

budapest music center This multifunctional<br />

facility encompasses a comprehensive music<br />

library, a record label, and multiple venues that<br />

showcase established and promising muscians.<br />

Pest IX, Mátyás u. 8. T: (+36 1) 216 7894, www.<br />

bmc.hu Map E7<br />

Cotton club Classy 1920s-style jazz and lounge<br />

club. Entertainment venues and special events<br />

include live music and tasty cocktails. Pest VI,<br />

Jókai u. 26. T: (+36 30) 184 1128 , www.cottonhousebudapest.hu<br />

Map E3<br />

FONÓ MUSIC HALL World music and jazz performed<br />

on several stages. Closed on Sundays.<br />

Buda XI, Sztregova u. 3. T: (+36 1) 206 5300,<br />

www.fono.hu<br />

JAM PUB A popular joint in the basement of<br />

Mammut II shopping center, hosting concerts<br />

in every genre. Closed on Sundays. Buda II,<br />

Lövőház u. 1-3. T: (+36 1) 345 8301, Map A3<br />

HUNGEXPO One-stop shop for events, conferences,<br />

conventions and exhibitions. Pest X,<br />

Albertirsai út 10. T: (+36 1) 263 6000, www.<br />

hungexpo.hu<br />

klebelsberg cultural center Tucked into<br />

the serene Buda hills, his cultural locale hosts<br />

modern and folk dancing, classical theater and<br />

contemporary arts. Buda II, Templom u. 2-10. T:<br />

(+36 1) 392 0860, www.kulturkuria.hu<br />

liszt academy of music Top-notch music<br />

performances at this Art Nouveau music university<br />

founded by its namesake composer. It<br />

has a splendid main concert hall and a smaller<br />

hall for chamber music performances. Guided<br />

tours every day at 1:30pm. Pest VI, Liszt Ferenc<br />

tér 8. T: (+36 1) 462 4600, www.lisztacademy.hu<br />

Map E4<br />

madách theater A grand modern playhouse<br />

featuring cool wall paintings and elaborate<br />

productions of hit musicals like Cats and Mary<br />

Poppins. English subtitles provided for some<br />

shows. Pest VII, Erzsébet krt. 29-33. T: (+36 1) 478<br />

2041, www.madachszinhaz.hu Map F4<br />

Margaret island open-air stage This<br />

beautiful amphitheater is surrounded by the<br />

parkland of the biggest island in the Danube,<br />

making it a splendid summertime venue.<br />

Margaret Island, under the Water Tower (accessible<br />

by bus 26 from Nyugati Square). www.<br />

szabadter.hu Map D0<br />

Matthias church Located on Castle Hill near<br />

the Fisherman’s Bastion, this impressive and<br />

beautifully restored church is a must-see sight<br />

for tourists with its colorful ceramic tiled roof,<br />

and richly decorated interior. It also organizes<br />

regular concerts of classical and church music.<br />

Buda I, Szentháromság tér. www.matyas-templom.hu<br />

Map B4<br />

MILLENÁRIS Multiple venues in Buda’s Millenáris<br />

Park offer frequent exhibitions, concerts, fairs,<br />

and special events. Buda II, Kis Rókus u. 16-20. T:<br />

(+36 1) 336 4000, www.millenaris.hu Map A2<br />

mom cultural center A modern venue by<br />

a Buda park offering concert, theater and<br />

dance performances, along with exhibits and<br />

open-air cinema (during summer). Adjacent<br />

is a big indoor sports hall <strong>where</strong> concerts are<br />

being staged as well. Buda XII, Csörsz u. 14-18.<br />

T: (+36 1) 319 9854, www.momkult.hu and www.<br />

momsport.hu Map A6<br />

ÓBUDAI TÁRSASKÖR Opulent performance hall<br />

that hosts classical and ragtime concerts. Buda<br />

III, Kiskorona u. 7. T: (+36 1) 250 0288, www.<br />

obudaitarsaskor.hu<br />

ORFEUM This underground evening cabaret<br />

serves up tasty cocktails and classy entertainment,<br />

from swing and jazz shows to Frank<br />

Sinatra tributes and vaudeville shows. Closed<br />

on Mondays. Pest VII, Erzsébet krt. 43-49. T: (+36<br />

1) 336 00 56, www.orfeumclub.hu Map F4<br />

PALACE OF ARTS A huge performance center<br />

with a very impressive monthly line-up featuring<br />

the best of the best Hungarian and international<br />

artists. Pest IX, Komor Marcell u. 1, at<br />

the tram 2 Millenniumi Kulturális Központ stop.<br />

T: (+36 1) 555 3000, www.mupa.hu Map F9<br />

PAPP LÁSZLÓ SPORTARÉNA Hungary’s largest<br />

indoor event venue, hosting major international<br />

touring concerts and Hungarian musical<br />

legends. Pest XIV, Stéfania út 2, at the M2 metro<br />

Stadionok stop. T: (+36 1) 422 2600, www.<br />

budapestarena.hu<br />

Pesti vIgadó Restored to its former glory that<br />

featured many famous artists like Ferenc Liszt<br />

or Claude Debussy, the building now houses<br />

exhibits and all kinds of shows, concerts and<br />

performances (mostly in Hungarian). Pest V,<br />

Vigadó tér 2. www.vigado.hu Map C5<br />

PÓTKULCS Relaxed, artsy venue with tunes in<br />

many genres, including swing and jazz. Pest<br />

VI, Csengery u. 65/B. T: (+36 1) 269 1050, www.<br />

potkulcs.hu Map E3<br />

www.<strong>where</strong>traveler.com 11


ENTERTAINMENT<br />

casual clothing is the norm. Pest IX, Liliom u. 41.<br />

T: (+36 1) 215 1600, www.trafo.hu Map F7<br />

VÍGSZÍNHÁZ Late-19th-century theatre building<br />

on the city’s grand boulevard, hosting comedy<br />

shows and an occasional English concert or<br />

performance. Pest XIII, Szent István krt. 14. T:<br />

(+36 1) 329 2340, www.vigszinhaz.hu Map D2<br />

Hungarian Jazz<br />

Eszter Váczi & Quartet is one of Hungary’s most popular jazz bands. Although the<br />

lyrics are mainly Hungarian, their cool yet elegant music is so international that the<br />

melody will help the listener figure it out. The success of the five-piece combo lies for<br />

a large part in Eszter’s fabulous velvet voice. If you book a table, you can have a dinner<br />

and a drink while listening to the concert in BMC’s Opus Jazz Club. Oct 12, 9 pm, BMC –<br />

Listing p.11, www.bmc.hu<br />

PUSKÁS FERENC STADION Used for Hungarian<br />

soccer matches, this giant outdoor arena<br />

occasionally hosts large-scale concerts by<br />

the world’s most popular superstars. Pest XIV,<br />

Istvánmezei út 3-5, at the M2 Stadionok metro<br />

stop. www.puskasferencstadion.com<br />

RAM COLOSSEUM An entertainment venue with<br />

popular Hungarian and international modern<br />

folk dance and music shows, creating real<br />

theatrical experiences. Pest XIII, Kárpát u. 23-25.<br />

T: (+36 1) 222 5253, www.ramcolosseum.com or<br />

www.experidance.hu Map D1<br />

royal palace of gödöllő Classical concerts,<br />

historic festivals and palace tours at the former<br />

residence of Empress Elizabeth, located just<br />

outside of Budapest. Gödöllő 2100, Grassalkovich<br />

Palace. T: (+36 28) 410 124, www.<br />

kiralyikastely.hu<br />

st. stephen’s basilica This Neo-Renaissance<br />

church also offers regular organ and classical<br />

music concerts in an ethereal surrounding.<br />

Up-to-date program on the website. Pest V,<br />

Szent István tér 1, T: (+36 20) 823 2095, www.<br />

organconcert.hu Map D4<br />

SYMA SPORT AND EVENT CENTER Adjacent to<br />

the city’s Sportaréna, this venue hosts concerts,<br />

athletic events, and fairs. Pest XIV, Dózsa<br />

György út 1. T: (+36 1) 460 1100, www.syma.hu<br />

thália theater This playhouse at “Budapest’s<br />

Broadway” sometimes hosts live concerts and<br />

dance performances. Pest VI, Nagymező u. 22-<br />

24. T: (+36 1) 331 0500, www.thalia.hu Map E4<br />

TRAFÓ HOUSE OF CONTEMPORARY ARTS<br />

The theatre is pretty small and the seats are<br />

not very comfortable, but this is Budapest’s<br />

centerpoint of contemporary dance, theatre<br />

and modern circus performances, <strong>where</strong> very<br />

Opera & Operetta<br />

ERKEL THEATER This modern musical theater<br />

is part of the State Opera and strives to make<br />

opera and ballet performances accessible for a<br />

wider public. Pest VIII, II. János Pál pápa tér 30,<br />

T: (+36 1) 814 7100, www.opera.hu Map G5<br />

HUNGARIAN STATE OPERA HOUSE This magnificent<br />

neo-Renaissance building offers a variety<br />

of classical and modern operas and ballets.<br />

You can always pop in into the main hall or the<br />

Opera coffee house to have a look at the interior.<br />

On weekdays, tours are being organised in<br />

the afternoon for those who just want a peak<br />

at the opulent interior. Pest VI, Andrássy út 22,<br />

T: (+36 1) 814 7100, www.opera.hu Map E4<br />

OPERETTA AND MUSICAL THEATER Modernized<br />

classic performances sung in Hungarian,<br />

but subtitled in either English or German. Pest<br />

VI, Nagymező u. 17. T: (+36 1) 312 4866, www.<br />

operettszinhaz.hu Map E4<br />

Dance<br />

budai vigado Cultural center, also known as<br />

the Hungarian Heritage House, which stages<br />

mostly Hungarian folk dance and music performances.<br />

Buda I, Corvin tér 8. T: (+36 1) 225 6049,<br />

www.heritagehouse.hu Map B4<br />

danube palace Classical concerts and performances<br />

by the Hungarian State Folk Ensemble<br />

and other companies. T: (+36 1) 317 2754. Pest V,<br />

Zrínyi u. 5. www.dunapalota.hu Map D4<br />

Jazz Clubs<br />

budapest jazz club Almost daily groovin’<br />

sessions by classical jazz cats and modern<br />

performers. Pest XIII, Hollán Ernő u. 7. T: (+36 70)<br />

413 9837, www.bjc.hu Map D2<br />

benkó dixieland club This longtime jazz<br />

venue hosts live concerts every Wednesday<br />

(6pm-9:30pm) amid a pleasantly old-fashioned<br />

setting. Closed June, July, August. Pest IX,<br />

Török Pál u. 3. T: (+36 1) 218 0116, www.benkodixie.hu<br />

Map E6<br />

COLUMBUS JAZZ PUB Floating musical mother<br />

ship features performances by Hungary’s<br />

greatest jazz musicians. Pest V, Vigadó tér 4<br />

(docked on the Pest riverbank). T: (+36 1) 266<br />

9013, www.columbuspub.hu Map C5<br />

IF KÁVÉZÓ Gifted musicians perform live in a<br />

fashionable but easygoing venue. Pest IX,<br />

Ráday u. 19. T: (+36 1) 299 0694, www.ifkavezo.<br />

hu Map E7<br />

ladó café Enjoy jazz classics performed by<br />

local musicians amid the unique ambience of a<br />

popular theater from the communist era. Pest<br />

VII, Dohány u. 50. T: (+36 70) 350 3929, www.<br />

ladocafe.hu Map F5<br />

opus jazz club Enjoy smooth jazz melodies at<br />

this downtown hotspot for regular live gigs.<br />

12 WHERE BUDAPEST I OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong>


ENTERTAINMENT<br />

ENTERTAINMENT<br />

Closed on Sundays. Pest IX, Mátyás u. 8. T: (+36<br />

1) 216 7894, www.opusjazzclub.hu Map E7<br />

English-language<br />

Cinemas<br />

Some of the movies in the following theaters<br />

are in the original language with Hungarian<br />

subtitles, check out websites.<br />

CORVIN Pest VIII, Corvin köz 1. T: (+36 1) 459 5050,<br />

www.corvin.hu Map F7<br />

cinema city on three locations in town. Arena<br />

plaza Kerepesi út 9. T (+36) 80 800 800, www.<br />

cinemacity.hu Map A3 mom PARK mall: Buda<br />

XII, Alkotás u. 53. T: (+36) 80 800 800, www.<br />

cinemacity.hu WESTEND City Center: Pest VI,<br />

Vácí út 1-3. T: (+36) 80 800 800, www.cinemacity.<br />

hu Map E2<br />

Animal Parks<br />

BUDAPEST ZOO From regal tigers and playful<br />

orangutans to elephants, the diverse collection<br />

of species and habitats of the zoo, as well<br />

as the lush botanical gardens, will please all<br />

animal and nature lovers What is more, they<br />

are housed partly in beautiful Art Nouveau<br />

structures, such as the Elephant House and<br />

the Aquarium. The Zoo also has a wonderful<br />

playground which is always very popular with<br />

children. Pest XIV, Állatkerti krt. 6-12. T: (+36 1)<br />

273 4900, www.zoobudapest.com Map G1<br />

www.<strong>where</strong>traveler.com 13


ART & MUSEUMS<br />

Ship lost<br />

Objects from the Titanic<br />

This traveling exhibition<br />

has hundreds of original<br />

objects – including furniture,<br />

clothes, and jewelry – from the<br />

world-famous cruise ship that was<br />

supposed to be unsinkable. But<br />

still, on its maiden voyage in April<br />

1912, it collided with an iceberg<br />

some<strong>where</strong> in the Atlantic and<br />

went down with most of its 1,500<br />

passengers. It’s a chilling, but<br />

fascinating story that has been<br />

the subject of numerous articles,<br />

books and a major movie. Komplex,<br />

Pest VI, Király utca 26, T: (+36 1) 666<br />

3100, www.titanickiallitas.hu/en<br />

Art Museums<br />

APPLIED ARTS MUSEUM Historic design exhibitions<br />

inside one of Budapest’s Art Nouveau<br />

architectural gems, notable for its colorfully<br />

tiled roof. Open Tue-Sun. Pest IX, Üllői út 33-37.<br />

T: (+36 1) 456 5110, www.imm.hu Map F7<br />

CAPA CENTER Honoring the Hungarian-born<br />

maverick photographer Robert Capa, this center<br />

for photography offers illuminating displays.<br />

Pest VI, Nagymező u. 8. T: (+36 1) 413 1310, Open<br />

Mon-Sun, www.capacenter.hu Map E4<br />

EAST ASIAn ART MUSEUM FERENC HOPP Fascinating<br />

artifacts from throughout the Orient<br />

displayed in a grand mansion. Open Wed-Sun.<br />

Pest VI, Andrássy út 103. Map F3<br />

fine arts museum Closed for renovation till the<br />

end of <strong>2017</strong>. A highlight selection of the Old<br />

Masters, Spanish masterpieces, French Impressionists,<br />

and 19th-century Hungarian works<br />

is on show in the Hungarian National Gallery<br />

in Buda Castle (see listing this page). Pest XIV,<br />

Heroes’ Square. T: (+36 1) 469 7100, www.mfab.<br />

hu Map G2<br />

GYÖRGY RÁTH MUSEUM A massive collection of<br />

Asian art in a stunning 19th-century villa. Open<br />

Wed-Sun. Pest VI, Városligeti fasor 12. T: (+36 1)<br />

342 3916, www.imm.hu Map G3<br />

KISCELLI MUSEUM Paintings, sculptures, drawings,<br />

coins, and medals in a regal estate. Open<br />

Tue-Fri. Buda III, Kiscelli u. 108. T: (+36 1) 250<br />

0304 www.kiscellimuzeum.hu<br />

KOGART HOUSE The museum gives home to<br />

the Gábor Kovács Art Collection, covering<br />

Hungarian art ranging from the beginning of<br />

the 18th until the mid-20th century. Located in<br />

a beautiful villa close to Heroes’ Square. Open<br />

Mon-Fri. Pest VI, Andrássy út 112. T: (+36 1) 354<br />

3820, www.kogart.hu Map F2<br />

LUDWIG MUSEUM A permanent collection and<br />

temporary exhibitions of contemporary works<br />

by Hungarian and international artists (with an<br />

emphasis on Central-European and Russian artists),<br />

located at the Palace of Arts. It is located<br />

at the southern side of Pest. Open Tue-Sun<br />

untill 8pm. Pest IX, Komor Marcell u. 1. T: (+36 1)<br />

555 3444, www.lumu.hu Map F9<br />

MAI MANÓ The Hungarian House of Photography,<br />

showing the best contemporary local and<br />

international snapshots. Open Mon-Fri 2pm-<br />

7pm and Sat-Sun 11am-7pm. Pest VI, Nagymező<br />

u. 20. T: (+36 1) 473 2669, www.maimano.hu<br />

Map E4<br />

MIKSA RÓTH MEMORIAL HOUSE The former<br />

home of this Hungarian stained-glass master,<br />

with some of his furniture and hisworks. The<br />

xhibition is mainly in Hungarian., though. Pest<br />

VII, Nefelejcs u. 26. T: (+36 1) 341 6789 www.<br />

rothmuzeum.hu Map G4<br />

MŰCSARNOK Rotating contemporary exhibitions<br />

of modern art and design in an ornate building.<br />

Open Tue-Sun, closed on Mon and Thurs morning.<br />

Pest XIV, Heroes’ Square. T: (+36 1) 460 7000,<br />

www.mucsarnok.hu Map G2<br />

NATIONAL GALLERY Various permanent exhibitions<br />

of Hungarian fine art since the country’s<br />

foundation, especially paintings from the 18th,<br />

19th and 20th century. They also organize<br />

many illuminating temporary exhibitions. Open<br />

Tue-Sun. Buda I, Royal Palace, Szent György tér<br />

2. T: (+36 1) 201 9082, www.mng.hu Map B5<br />

Specialty Museums<br />

AQUINCUM MUSEUM Ancient ruins from the<br />

2,000-year-old capital of a Roman province.<br />

Outdoor stone remains and a museum with<br />

restored mosaics and wall paintings. Open Tue-<br />

Sun. Buda III, Szentendrei út 135. T: (+36 1) 250<br />

1650, www.aquincum.hu<br />

ARANY SAS PHARMACY MUSEUM Buda’ s oldest<br />

pharmacy, the “Golden Eagle,” is recreated in<br />

the Castle District. Open Tue-Sun. Buda I, Apród<br />

u. 1-3. T: (+36 1) 375-9772, www.semmelweis.<br />

museum.hu Map B5<br />

army headquarter After seven decades, and<br />

many unrealized renovation plans, this former<br />

army headquarter is open to the public again,<br />

hosting various exhibits and cultural events.<br />

Buda I, Dísz tér 17. Map B4<br />

BÉLA BARTÓK MEMORIAL HOUSE The composer’s<br />

home museum, with original furniture<br />

and Bartók’s folk-art collection, photos, and letters.<br />

Open Tue-Sat. Buda II, Csalán út 29. T: (+36<br />

1) 394 2100, www.bartokmuseum.hu<br />

castle museum Permanent exhibition about<br />

the history of Budapest in the fascinating<br />

setting of endless cellars and several floors of<br />

the current palace and its predecessors. Open<br />

Tue-Sun. Buda I, Royal Palace (Wing E). T: (+36 1)<br />

487 8800, www.btm.hu Map B5<br />

ETHNOGRAPHy museum Exhibitions on<br />

Hungarian lifestyles through history, including<br />

clothes and handicrafts, in a beautifull neo-<br />

Renaissance palace that was once the building<br />

of the highest court. Open Tue-Sun. Pest V,<br />

Kossuth Lajos tér 12. T: (+36 1) 473 2400, www.<br />

neprajz.hu Map C3<br />

HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL CENTER Permanent<br />

exhibition on the Hungarian Holocaust and<br />

the way that lead there. Timely and insightful<br />

temporary exhibits on social issues. Pest IX,<br />

Páva u. 39. Open Tue-Sun. T: (+36 1) 455 3333,<br />

www.hdke.hu Map F7<br />

HOSPITAL IN THE ROCK A WWII-era medical<br />

facility, later a secret nuclear bunker, found in<br />

the tunnels and caves beneath Castle Hill. A<br />

fascinating one-hour tour, with a short documentairy<br />

film as introduction and stories about<br />

Hungary’s 20th century history. Open Mon-Sun.<br />

Buda I, Lovas u. 4/C. T: (+36 70) 701 0101, www.<br />

sziklakorhaz.eu Map A4<br />

HOUSE OF TERROR MUSEUM Infamous as the<br />

headquarters for fascists in the 1940s and then<br />

the communist secret service, this building is<br />

now a memorial museum. Open Tue-Sun. Pest<br />

VI, Andrássy út 60. T: (+36 1) 374 2600, www.<br />

terrorhaza.hu Map E3<br />

14 WHERE BUDAPEST I OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong>


ART & MUSEUMS<br />

LISZT FERENC MUSEUM The house <strong>where</strong> the<br />

internationally well-known composer used to<br />

live (1881-1886) when in Budapest is a small<br />

museum with original furniture, musical instruments,<br />

memorabilia, transcripts etc. There is<br />

also a small concert hall, part of the original<br />

Academy of Music, which he founded. Open<br />

Mon-Sat, Buda VI, Vörösmarty u. 35, T: (+36 1) 413<br />

0440 Map E3<br />

NATIONAL MUSEUM In various halls and chambers,<br />

the history of Hungary, from the nation’s<br />

foundation till today., is explained in objects<br />

and text. The exhibit itself is mostly Hungarian),<br />

but there is a one-hour English tour on<br />

Thursdays at 11am (registration required). The<br />

museum also organizes temporary exhibitions,<br />

which are often more accesible for foreign visitors.<br />

Open Tue-Sun. Pest VIII, Múzeum krt. 14-16.<br />

T: (+36 1) 338 2122, www.mnm.hu Map E6<br />

NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM An educational<br />

complex that features an aquarium, a whale<br />

skeleton, fossils, and stuffed animals (mostly<br />

Hungarian only). Open Wed-Sun. Pest VIII,<br />

Ludovika tér 2-6. T: (+36 1) 210 1085, www.<br />

nhmus.hu Map G7<br />

RAILWAY MUSEUM An open-air museum on a<br />

former train-yard with an amazing collection of<br />

vintage engines and other objects. Visitors can<br />

also ride several models of rail vehicles. Easily<br />

reachable from Nyugati and Keleti Stations.<br />

Open Apr-Nov (Mon closed). Pest XIV, Tatai út<br />

95. T: (+36 1) 450 1497, www.vasuttortenetipark.<br />

hu/en<br />

SEMMELWEIS MUSEUM The history of Western<br />

medicine, with special emphasis on Hungary<br />

and the work of Ignác Semmelweis, the Hungarian<br />

doctor who taught his colleagues to ...<br />

wash their hands. Open Tue-Sun, Buda I, Apród<br />

utca 1-3. T: (+ 36 1) 375 3533, www.semmelweis.<br />

museum.hu, Map C5<br />

STATUE PARK Huge statues of Marx, Lenin, and<br />

other communist-era figures. Open daily 10amdusk.<br />

Direct buses leave Deák tér daily from<br />

11am. Buda XXII, Balatoni út/Szabadkai u. T: (+36<br />

1) 424 7500, www.mementopark.hu<br />

SZABÓ MARZIPAN MUSEUM A playful gallery of<br />

all things marzipan, including historical icons<br />

and Disney characters. Open daily. Buda I,<br />

Hess András tér 1-3. T: (+36 1) 669 6861, www.<br />

szabomarcipan.hu Map B4<br />

VARGA IMRE MUSEUM Original statues as well as<br />

some copies by the most successful and internationally<br />

renowned contemporary Hungarian<br />

sculptor. Buda III, Laktanya utca 7, (Óbuda), no<br />

website, Not on map<br />

VÁRKERT BAZAAR At the foot of Buda Castle,<br />

these neo-Renaissance palaces house several<br />

permanent and temporary exhibitions including<br />

the Hungaricon (objects from or by famous<br />

Hungarian personalities), and a wooden<br />

model of Buda. In the gardens are two festival<br />

grounds. Buda I, Miklós Ybl tér. T: (+36 1) 225<br />

0310, www.varkertbazar.hu Map C5<br />

ZWACK UNICUM HERITAGE AND VISITORS CEN-<br />

TER Follow six generations of the Zwack family<br />

and learn about the background of the popular<br />

bittersweet beverage. Open Mon-Fri. Pest IX,<br />

Soroksári út 26. T: (+36 1) 476 2383, www.zwack.<br />

hu Map F8<br />

Art Galleries<br />

ACB GALLERY Leading contemporary Hungarian<br />

artworks. Open Tue-Fri 2pm-6pm. Pest VI,<br />

Király u. 76. T: (+36 1) 413 7608, www.acbgaleria.<br />

hu Map F3<br />

ARi kupsus gallery This unconventional gallery<br />

hosts contemporary shows . Pest VIII, Bródy<br />

Sándor u. 23/B. T: (+36 20) 322 0334, www.<br />

arikupsusgallery.com Map F6<br />

chimera project This art incubator is showcasing<br />

curated, thematic exhibitions about artistic<br />

PÉTER<br />

KORNISS<br />

CONTINUING MEMORIES<br />

and social topics. Open Tue-Fri 3pm-6pm or<br />

upon appointment. Pest VII, Klauzál tér 5. www.<br />

chimera-project.com Map E5<br />

DEÁK ERIKA GALÉRIA Cutting-edge showcase<br />

of young Magyar artists, many in new media.<br />

Open Wed-Fri noon-6pm and Sat 11am-4pm.<br />

Pest VI, Mozsár u. 1. T: (+36 1) 201 3740, www.<br />

deakgaleria.hu Map E4<br />

Design terminál A cutting-edge viewing<br />

space for modern artwork and aesthetic innovation.<br />

Pest V, Erzsébet tér 13. www.designterminal.hu<br />

Map D5<br />

ADVERTISE IN WHERE BUDAPEST MAGAZINE –<br />

HUNGARY'S MOST DIRECT LINK TO THE WORLD!<br />

Call (+36 30) 945 2983 or view<br />

www.unitedguides.hu for more information.<br />

HUNGARIAN NATIONAL GALLERY, BUDAPEST<br />

29 SEPTEMBER <strong>2017</strong> 7 JANUARY 2018<br />

LEAD SPONSOR MAJOR SPONSOR COOPERATIONAL PARTNERS<br />

PÉTER KORNISS: GIRL IN A HEADSCARF, 1975 © VÁRFOK GALLERY, BUDAPEST © PÉTER KORNISS<br />

www.<strong>where</strong>traveler.com 15


ART & MUSEUMS<br />

VIltin Hungarian paintings, sculptures and photographies<br />

are displayed in this contemporary<br />

gallery. Open Tue-Sat. Pest VI, Vasvári Pál utca 1.<br />

T: (+36 1) 787 5866, www.viltin.hu Map E4<br />

VIntage Displaying both contemporary and<br />

modern works by Hungarian artists, Vintage is<br />

a good place to view photography and new<br />

media. Pest V, Magyar u. 26. T: (+36 20) 913 6291,<br />

www.vintage.hu Map E6<br />

VIrág judit This gallery, located in the antiques<br />

street of downtown Pest, presents and sells<br />

Zsolnay ceramics and high quality Hungarian<br />

paintings from the 19th and 20th centuries as<br />

well as organizing regular auctions, along with<br />

all sorts of thematic exhibitions. Pest V, Falk<br />

Miksa u. 30. T: (36 1) 312 2071, www.viragjuditgaleria.hu<br />

Map D2<br />

World Press Photo<br />

The 2016 World Press Photo of the year, the picture of the Turkish man who has just<br />

killed the Russian ambassador in Ankara, takes center stage. It is a highly dramatic<br />

photo that leaves you wondering about right and wrong, just and unjust, and the<br />

frailty of a human’s life. But there are more than 150 other images that were also<br />

selected winners in many categories. Till Oct 23, Ethnography Museum – Listing p.14,<br />

www.worldpressphoto.org<br />

ERNST GALLERY Showcasing venerable Hungarian<br />

and international fine arts, antiques, paintings,<br />

film posters, and more in two locations.<br />

Its aim is to introduce Hungarian painters to<br />

the international context, namely to private<br />

and public collections in Hungary and abroad.<br />

www.ernstgaleria.hu Pest V, Irányi u. 27. T: (+36<br />

1) 266 4016 Map D6; Pest V, Zrínyi u. 14. T: (+36 1)<br />

266 4017 Map D4<br />

FAUR zsófia-ráday galéria One of the first<br />

Hungarian private galleries after the change of<br />

the regime, the gallery showcases Hungarian<br />

contemporary fine art and photography. Open<br />

Mon-Fri noon-6pm. Buda XI, Bartók Bela út 25.<br />

T: (+36 1) 209 3635, www.galeriafaur.hu Map D8<br />

karton A sleek and modern viewing space hosting<br />

regular art exhibitions in varied mediums.<br />

Open Mon-Fri 1pm-6pm. Pest V, Alkotmány u.<br />

18. T: (+36 1) 427 0000, www.karton.hu Map D3<br />

KIESELBACH GALLERY Viewings and auctions of<br />

high-quality classical Hungarian and international<br />

paintings. Open Mon-Sun 10am-6pm.<br />

Pest V, Szt. István krt. 5. T: (+36 1) 269 3148, www.<br />

kieselbach.hu Map D2<br />

KIsterem Representing local artists, Kisterem<br />

hosts exhibitions that explore a wide variety<br />

of art forms, including drawings, sculptures or<br />

multi-textured models made out of everyday<br />

materials. Open Tue-Fri 2pm–6pm. Pest, Képíró<br />

u. 5.T: (+36 1) 267 0522, www.kisterem.hu Map E6<br />

KNOLL GALÉRIA As one of Pest’s first private<br />

galleries after the fall of the Soviet Bloc, this<br />

pioneering institution participated in developing<br />

the independent art scene and cultivating<br />

fresh Hungarian and foreign talent. Open<br />

Tue-Sat. Pest VI, Liszt Ferenc tér 10. T: (+36 1) 267<br />

3842, www.knollgaleria.hu Map E4<br />

KOLLER GALLERY The first privat gallery in<br />

communist Hungary is elegantly situated in<br />

Budapest’s Castle District, It specializes in contemporary<br />

etchings and graphics. Open daily<br />

10am-6pm. Buda I, Táncsics Mihály u. 5. T: (+36<br />

1) 356 9208, www.kollergaleria.hu Map B4<br />

MOLNÁR ANI GALLERY Artists of many generations<br />

and mediums, with a preference for<br />

experimental materials. Intriguing, high-quality<br />

pieces in an intimate space. Open Tue-Fri<br />

noon-6pm. Pest VIII, Bródy Sándor u. 22. T: (+36<br />

1) 327 0095, www.molnaranigaleria.hu Map E6<br />

MORÓ ANTIK Gentlemen’s antique store with a<br />

specialization in old guns, rapiers, and sophisticated<br />

canes. Open Mon-Fri 10am-6pm and Sat<br />

10am-1pm. Pest V, Falk Miksa u. 13. T: (+36 1) 311<br />

0814, www.moroantik.hu Map C3<br />

NAGYHÁZI GALLERY AND AUCTION HOUSE One<br />

of the oldest local antiques shop and auction<br />

house, offering furniture, paintings, lamps and<br />

more. Pest V, Balaton u. 8. T: (+36 1) 475 6000,<br />

www.nagyhazi.hu Map D2<br />

NESSIM GALLERY Sharply focused on Central<br />

European contemporary photographers with<br />

attention-grabbing rotating exhibitions. By appointment<br />

only. Pest VI, Paulay Ede u. 10. T: (+36<br />

30) 593 6091, www.nessim.hu Map D4<br />

VÁRFOK GALLERY One of Buda’s few contemporary<br />

gallerie, showing works by renowned<br />

and up-and-coming Hungarian artists. Open<br />

Tue-Sat 11am-6pm. Buda I, Várfok u. 11. T: (+36 1)<br />

213 5155, www.varfok-galeria.hu Map A3<br />

Szentendre Museums<br />

& Galleries<br />

Anna Margit-ámos imre collection Notable<br />

display of vibrant, surrealist paintings by<br />

this artistic couple. Szentendre 2000, Bogdányi<br />

út 10-12. T: (+36 26) 310 244, www.femuz.hu<br />

bÉLA CZÓBEL MUSEUM SThis small museum is<br />

showcasing wok of one of the most important<br />

modernist painters of Hungary. He lived from<br />

1883 till 1970 and introdcued the post-impressionist<br />

style to the country. Szentendre 2000,<br />

Templom tér 1, T: (+36 20) 779 6657.<br />

barcsay collection Small color compositions<br />

and study drawings in constructivist stylings by<br />

Jenő Barcsay, a Szentendre homesteader. Open<br />

Wed-Sun 10am-6pm. Szentendre 2000, Dumtsa<br />

Jenő u. 10. T: (+36 20) 779 6659, www.pmmi.hu<br />

dobos chocolate museum Sweet exhibit<br />

for famous confectioner József Dobos, who<br />

created his delectable caramel-topped dessert<br />

with chocolate cream layered between sponge<br />

cake. Open Sat-Sun 10am-6pm or weekdays<br />

with prior notice. Szentendre 2000, Bogdányi u.<br />

2. T: (+36 26) 311 660<br />

FERENCZY MUSEUM Károly Ferenczy is considered<br />

the father of Hungarian impressionist<br />

painting. He was on of the founders of the<br />

Nagybánya artist colony and later lived and<br />

worked here. Szentendre 2000, Kossuth Lajos u.<br />

5, T: (+36 26) 920 990, www.femuz.hu<br />

Margit kovács museum Drawing from folk<br />

and Byzantine influences, this famous 20thcentury<br />

ceramic sculptor reached high fame<br />

throughout Hungary. Open daily 10am-6pm.<br />

Szentendre 2000, Vastagh György u. 1. T: (+36<br />

20) 779 6659<br />

Serbian orthodox museum Rich ecclesiastic<br />

history of Hungary, told in an ornate, Baroque<br />

18th-century orthodox church. Open Mar-Dec<br />

Tue-Sun and Jan-Feb Fri-Sun. Szentendre 2000,<br />

Pátriárka u. 5. T: (+36 26) 312 399<br />

SZAMOS MARCIPÁN MUSEUM Quanit bakery<br />

café and museum showcasing elaborate marzipan<br />

figurines. Szentendre 2000, Dumtsa Jenő u.<br />

12-14, T: (+36 26) 311 931<br />

SKANZEN ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM This openair<br />

museum captures the essence of rural life<br />

in the 18th-20th centuries, showing village<br />

houses, churches and more. Szentendre 2000,<br />

Staravodai út. T: (+36 26) 502 537, www.sznm.hu<br />

photo: Peter Bauza<br />

16 WHERE BUDAPEST I OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong>


Autumn Attires<br />

The fall/winter collection of Hungarian designers is here.<br />

It is that time of the year when the breezy summer dresses are swapped<br />

for cozy sweaters and thick layers. Luckily, the growing number of young<br />

designers helps everyone bundle up in style.<br />

NANUSHKA The designs of Szandra Sándor – the creative spirit behind<br />

Nanushka – calls her latest collection Suitcase stories. It is inspired by the<br />

clothing bought during travels, which remind the owners of the special<br />

memories from their favorite trips. It features earthy tones, rich brown<br />

trousers, leather pants and leopard print sweaters. See listing on p.18.<br />

TOMCSANYI The story of this Budapest-based contemporary womenswear<br />

brand began in 2010 as a university project. The designer behind the brand is<br />

Dóri Tomcsányi, her collection is thoughtful and fun, maneuvering between<br />

minimalism and eclecticism. The new pieces (see photo) are inspired by<br />

bygone days of Eastern Europe, including velour skirts, silk pieces and dresses<br />

with tiny embroidered gold planes. The Garden Studio, Pest VI, Paulay Ede u. 18.<br />

Map D4 www.tomcsanyi.eu<br />

ÁERON Born into a textile dynasty, designer Eszter Áron says her childhood<br />

experiences influenced her aesthetics. The brand, Áeron, is known for its<br />

clean sharp lines and exquisite craftsmanship. The autumn/ winter collection<br />

includes mustard yellow velvet pieces, checked pantsuits, long camel coats<br />

and skirts with a masculine edge. Pest V, Zrínyi u. 4. Map C4 www.aeron.hu<br />

SHOPS & SERVICES<br />

Opening hours<br />

MOST SHOPS close earlier on Saturdays (between<br />

1pm and 4 pm) and many, but certainly<br />

not all, are closed on Sundays. Shops are usually<br />

open from 9am or 10am till 7pm till 9pm on<br />

weekdays.<br />

Accessories<br />

VARGA DESIGN Radiant jewelry designed by<br />

metal mastermind Miklós Varga. Sophisticated<br />

and artistic line contains irreproducible masterpieces<br />

with cobweb-like interwoven metals<br />

with expertly applied diamonds and pearls.<br />

Pest V, Haris köz 6. T: (+36 1) 318 4089, www.<br />

vargadesign.hu Map D5<br />

photo: Balázs Máté<br />

Clothing<br />

ANDA EMILIA Sleek clothing with simple lines<br />

and rich fabrics from this young Hungarian designer.<br />

Pest V, Galamb u. 4. T: (+36 30) 933 9746,<br />

www.andaemi.com Map D5<br />

BP CLOTHING This brand offers urban street wear<br />

for men and women, boasting the initials BP<br />

(standing for the capital city, Budapest). Pest VII,<br />

Wesselényi utca 24. T: (+36 70) 409 5114, www.<br />

bpshop.hu Map E5<br />

DORA ABODI Futuristic style meets timeless elegance<br />

at this Hungarian designer’s Showroom<br />

R9. Pest IX, Ráday u. 9. www.doraabodi.com<br />

Map E6<br />

FLEISCHER SHIRTS Already since the 1920s, this<br />

relatively unchanged shop has all sorts of<br />

tailored custom-made men’s attire. Closed on<br />

Sat, too. Pest VI, Nagymező u. 7. T: (+36 30) 754<br />

1958 Map E4<br />

www.<strong>where</strong>traveler.com 17


SHOPS & SERVICES<br />

RODODENDRON Cutting-edge wares of young local<br />

designers, including gifts, jewelry, and handcrafted<br />

footwear. Pest V, Semmelweis u. 19. T: (+36<br />

70) 419 5329, www.rododendron.hu Map D5<br />

SZPUTNYIK SHOP Vintage-clothing lovers and<br />

treasure hunters can find retro fashions and<br />

brand–new custom designs at two boutiques<br />

that serve as eclectic time capsules. www.szputnyikshop.hu<br />

Open Mon-Sat 10am–8pm at Pest<br />

VII, Dohány u.20. Map E5; Open Mon-Sat 11am-<br />

9pm at Pest VI, Király u.22. (Káldy Gy.u.1.) Map E4<br />

Sweet Bitter<br />

A typical Hungarian liqueur is Unicum, made from a secret formula of 40 herbs<br />

developed by the Zwack family and smuggled out of the country during communism.<br />

The original variation is rather bitter, but the company also developed a variety with<br />

a somewhat sweeter taste more appreciated by a younger generation (Unicum Next).<br />

The production facility in Budapest offers tours, which include a tasting session. Zwack<br />

Museum – Listing p.15, www.zwack.hu<br />

KATTI ZOÓB Modern tailoring by the acclaimed<br />

Hungarian designer, who is a defining player on<br />

the Hungarian fashion scene for more than 20<br />

years. Pest V, Szent István krt. 17. T: (+36 30) 657<br />

5794, www.kattizoob.hu Map D2<br />

LÉBER BARBARA Designing sophisticated wedding<br />

dresses and evening clothes. By appointment<br />

only. Buda XII, Alkotás u. 39/c. T: (+36 20)<br />

955 5686, www.leberbarbara.hu<br />

Manier Founded by Anikó Nemeth in 1992, the<br />

magic ambience of this showroom combines<br />

a passion for luxury fabrics, objects, and colors<br />

with elements of fantasy. Pest VI, Hajós u. 12. T:<br />

(+36 1) 354 1878, www.manier.hu Map E4<br />

Mom park A unique shopping mall in the heart<br />

of Buda, a place that combines the joy of<br />

shopping with culinairy experiences in style. It<br />

hosts several fashion,design and social events,<br />

and offers a wide range of premium brands like<br />

Michael Kors, Max& Co, Furla, Coccinelle, Nubu<br />

and other designer brands. Buda XII, Alkotás<br />

u.53, T: (+36 1)487 5501, www.mompark.com<br />

Map A6<br />

NANUSHKA London-trained Sándor Szandra’s<br />

designs combine playful cuts and lush fabrics<br />

with elegance and comfort. Pest V, Bécsi u.<br />

3 and Váci u. 27, T: (+36 70) 394 1954, www.<br />

nanushka.hu Map D5<br />

NÁRAY TAMÁS Streamlined prêt-à-porter fashions<br />

and accessories by a Paris-trained Hungarian<br />

designer. Closed on Sat. Pest VI, Hajós u. 17. T:<br />

(+36 1) 266 2473, www.naraytamas.com Map E4<br />

PELOTE TAILOR-MADE Everything custom-made;<br />

ties and two-, three-, and four-piece suits. Pest<br />

VI, Andrássy út 15. T: (+36 1) 411 1615, www.<br />

pelote.com Map D4<br />

TISZA A communist-era shoe brand revived with<br />

style and still manufactured in Hungary. www.<br />

tiszacipo.hu Pest VII, Károly krt. 1. T: (+36 1) 266<br />

3055 Map E5; WestEnd City Center: Pest VI, Váci<br />

út 1-3. T: (+36 1) 238 7505 Map E2<br />

ZILLI The exclusive luxury coat and menswear<br />

tailors and couturiers cater to those who want<br />

the best. Pest VI, Andrássy út 13. T: (+36 1) 267<br />

4448 Map D4<br />

Design Shops<br />

ARON DESIGN STORE Collection of sprightly<br />

goods by a pool of hip international artists.<br />

Mammut Mall: Buda II, Lövőház u. 2-6. www.<br />

aron-store.com Map A3<br />

MAGMA A gorgeous gallery of vanguard interior<br />

designers’ creations in countless mediums like<br />

glass, ceramics, and paper. Pest V, Petőfi S. u. 11.<br />

T: (+36 1) 235 0277, Map D5 Buda I, Úri u. 26-28.,<br />

Map B4, www.magma.hu<br />

mono art & design A design shop, gallery and<br />

viewing space – Mono merges fashion with<br />

art. The shop offers clothing, accessories and<br />

design objects from cutting-edge brands and<br />

contemporary artists. Open Mon-Fri 11am-8pm,<br />

Sat 10am-6pm. Pest V, Kossuth Lajos u. 12. www.<br />

facebook.com/monoartanddesign Map D5<br />

wonderlab A quirky store with jewelry, accessories,<br />

and clothing for women by 30 Hungarian<br />

designers. Closed on Mon. Pest V, Veres<br />

Pálné utca 3. T: (+36 20) 314 2058 Map D6<br />

Porcelain & Glass<br />

AJKA KRISTÁLY Finest crystal pieces and stemware<br />

in both modern and classical designs.<br />

www.ajka-crystal.hu Pest V, József Attila u. 7. T:<br />

(+36 1) 317 8133 Map D5; Pest V, Kossuth Lajos<br />

u. 10. T: (+36 1) 328 0844 Map D5; Pest XIII, Szent<br />

István krt. 18. T: (+36 1) 340 5083 Map D2<br />

HEREND PORCELAIN World-class fine china,<br />

painted by hand. www.herend.com Pest V, József<br />

Nádor tér 11. T: (+36 1) 317 2622 Map D5; Buda I,<br />

Szentháromság u. 5. T: (+36 1) 225 1051 Map B4;<br />

Pest VI, Andrássy út 16. T: (+36 1) 374 0006 Map E4<br />

HOLLÓHÁZA Hand-painted porcelain tableware<br />

and gift items. www.hollohazi.hu Pest VII,<br />

Dohány u. 1/C. T: (+36 20) 592 5676 Map E5;<br />

Haas & Czjzek: Pest VI, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 23. T:<br />

(+36 1) 311 4094 Map D4<br />

ZSOLNAY Porcelain from the famous factory in<br />

the southern town of Pécs, including dinnerware,<br />

vases, and individual pieces. www.zsolnay.hu<br />

Haas & Czjzek: Pest VI, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky<br />

út 23. T: (+36 1) 311 4094 Map D4<br />

Markets<br />

CENTRAL MARKET HALL Everything you might<br />

want, from vegetables, meat, bread and<br />

cheese to wild boar and fish (downstairs in the<br />

cellars). Upstairs they sell Hungarian crafts and<br />

souvenirs. Open Mon 6am-5pm, Tue-Fri 6am-<br />

6pm and Sat 6am-3pm. Pest IX, Vámház krt. 1-3.<br />

T: (+36 1) 366 3300, www.piaconline.hu Map E6<br />

fény street market Located near Széll Kálmán<br />

tér, this market is a favorite of many expats. It<br />

offers a wide variety of fresh produce, pastries,<br />

baked goods, and luxury food. Buda II, Lövőház<br />

utca 12. www.fenyutcaipiac.hu Map A3<br />

downtown market This lesser known market<br />

hall in the vicinity of Parliament is smaller than<br />

its big brother (Central Market) but is just as<br />

pretty and offers the same range of products.<br />

Upstairs, there are all sorts of take-aways and<br />

small restaurants which make it an ideal spot<br />

for a quick lunch. Closed on Sundays, Pest V,<br />

Hold utca 13, www.piaconline.hu Map D4<br />

Escorts<br />

ESCORT 2 NIGHT Beautiful and charming ladies<br />

are waiting for you in Budapest to offer pleasant<br />

companionship for nights out in Budapest, or as<br />

partners for corporate events. Non-stop service.<br />

T: (+36 20) 965 8033 or (+36 20) 502 8971, www.<br />

escort2night.hu<br />

18 WHERE BUDAPEST I OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong>


WELLNESS<br />

Leaves of Red<br />

and Gold<br />

Places to enjoy colorful autumn walks<br />

When leaves start to fall and the ground gets<br />

covered in a blanket of red and gold, there are<br />

a number of places in Budapest to observe the<br />

colors of the season.<br />

BUDA CASTLE The leafy outer walkways of<br />

Castle Hill and the parks at Várkert Bazár and at<br />

the foot of Fishermans Bastion are surprisingly<br />

quiet and peaceful, seeing how close they are<br />

to some major tourist attractions. The autumn<br />

colors make the views you get from here even<br />

more enchanting. Map A4, B4-5<br />

MARGIT ISLAND With its many romantic<br />

walkways, the island is another great place for a<br />

leisurely stroll. Don’t forget to go to the musical<br />

fountain near Margit Bridge. It plays music<br />

ranging from Vivaldi and Brahms to Simon and<br />

Garfunkel and the Rolling Stones at specific<br />

times (10:30am and 6pm, 7:30pm, and 9pm) and<br />

operates till October 31. Map C0-1-2<br />

NORMAFA HILL The meadows and forest on the<br />

major hill overlooking Buda offer breath-taking<br />

views over the entire city and the Danube. It’s an<br />

easy walk from the parking area/bus stop (bus<br />

21) to the Erzsébet tower on János Hill and back,<br />

or you can wander into the surrounding woods.<br />

Buda XII, Off Map<br />

Beauty<br />

bank center beauty salon Close to St. Stephen’s<br />

Basilica, professional cosmetic services based on<br />

30 years of experience, customized for every client.<br />

Innovative therapies and cellular rejuvenation<br />

to revitalize skin. Open Mon-Fri 10am-8pm, Sat<br />

by appointment. Pest V, Arany János u. 28 (in the<br />

Bank Center passage). T: (+36 30) 257 4825, www.<br />

kissanikomesterkozmetikus.hu Map D4<br />

CLINIQUE Internationally renowned skincare and<br />

makeup customized for individual complexions.<br />

Open Mon-Sat 10am-6pm. Pest V, Váci u. 8.<br />

T: (+36 1) 266 7828, www.clinique.hu Map D5<br />

DOUGLAS Europe’s largest seller of cosmetics<br />

and fragrances, carrying the most popular<br />

beauty brands. Pest V, Váci u. 11/A. T: (+36 1) 318<br />

2323, www.douglas-parfumeria.hu Map D5<br />

ESTÉE LAUDER The legendary Hungarian<br />

cosmetics doyenne of makeup and skin care.<br />

Pest V, Váci u. 12. T: (+36 1) 266 7829, www.esteelauder.hu<br />

Map D5<br />

LE PARFUM Hungary’s only master perfumer<br />

offers consultations to find your ideal aroma<br />

from a myriad of international brands. Pest V,<br />

Deák Ferenc u. 18. T: (+36 30) 405 0668, www.<br />

leparfum.hu Map D6<br />

LUSH A fragrant shop with all-natural, fresh handmade<br />

cosmetics, bath products, makup, and<br />

perfume. Pest V, Szent István krt. 1. T: (+36 1) 277<br />

0840, www.lush.hu Map C2<br />

MAC Fashion-forward line of fine cosmetics, fragrances,<br />

nail care, and accessories. Create your<br />

personalized color palettes. Open Mon-Sat<br />

10am-6pm. Pest V, Váci u. 8. T: (+36 1) 328 0396,<br />

www.maccosmetics.com Map D5<br />

METROPOLITAN Complete grooming and style<br />

on a quiet street in the heart of downtown.<br />

Open Mon-Fri 10am-6pm and Sat 10am-2pm.<br />

Pest V, Aulich u. 4-6. T: (+36 30) 500 8342, www.<br />

metropolitanbudapest.hu Map D3<br />

OMOROVICZA Hungarian healing waters in<br />

pure innovative skin care, now internationally<br />

popular at upscale department stores. www.<br />

omorovicza.com Pest VI, Andrássy út 2. T: (+36<br />

1) 302 4604. Map D4; Open Mon-Sat 10am-6pm<br />

at Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace: Pest<br />

V, Széchenyi István tér 5-6. T: (+36 1) 286 6000,<br />

Map C4<br />

DENTAL SERVICES<br />

BUDAPEST DENTAL Large staff of experienced<br />

dentists and oral surgeons in ultramodern<br />

setting. Free treatment plans and consultations.<br />

Open Mon-Fri 8am-8pm. Pest XIII, Szent István<br />

krt. 10. T: (+36 1) 315 4545, www.budapestdental.hu<br />

Map D2<br />

DR. éva csibrey Friendly and conveniently<br />

located private practice specializing in general<br />

family care. Open Mon and Wed 9am-6pm, Tue<br />

and Thu 9am-1pm. Buda II, Fillér u. 6. T: (+36 1)<br />

316 0483, www.csibrey.hu Map A3<br />

jewel DENTAL A comfortable and welcoming<br />

modern facility specializing in painless implant<br />

technology for international visitors to Hungary<br />

seeking a new smile. Pest V, Nádor u. 23. T: (+36<br />

30) 592 1847, www.jeweldental.eu Map C4<br />

KREATIV DENTAL A global leader in dental tourism.<br />

They offer free consultation and take care<br />

of every treatment you want if you plan it well<br />

ahead. They also have an on-site laboratory.<br />

Pest XIV, Vezér u. 100. T: (+36 1) 222 0199, www.<br />

kreativdentalclinic.eu<br />

Fitness Centers<br />

ASTORIA FITNESS CENTER Well-equipped modern<br />

gym, close to the famous hotel with the<br />

same name.. Open Mon-Fri 6:30am-midnight<br />

and Sat-Sun 10am-9pm at Pest V, Károly krt. 4. T:<br />

(+36 1) 317 0452, www.astoriafitness.hu Map E5<br />

www.<strong>where</strong>traveler.com 19


WELLNESS<br />

DANUBIUS PREMIER FITNESS Hungary’s largest<br />

fitness-club chain with four Budapest locations.<br />

State-of the-art equipment. www.premierfitness.hu<br />

Spa Resort Margaret Island: Budapest<br />

XIII, T: (+36 1) 889 4914 Map D0; Spa Resort Helia:<br />

Pest XIII, Kárpát u. 62-64. T: (+36 1) 889 5820<br />

Map D0; Hotel Arena: Pest XIV, Ifjúság útja 1-3.<br />

T: (+36 1) 889 5282; Hotel Flamenco: Buda XI, Tas<br />

vezér u. 3-7. T: (+36 1) 889 5761<br />

FITNESS FACTORY Top-class fitness and wellness<br />

center that’s parent-friendly. Open Mon-Fri<br />

6:30am-10:30pm and Sat-Sun 8am-8pm. Pest<br />

XIII, Róbert Károly körút 54-58 (Material Center<br />

5th floor). T: (+36 1) 238 0764, www.fitnessfactory.hu<br />

Map F0<br />

HOLMES PLACE Exclusive center in the heart<br />

of the Jewish Quarter. part of an international<br />

chain with over 85 clubs. Open Mon-Thu<br />

6:30am- 10:30pm, Fri 6:30pm-9:30pm and Sat-<br />

Sun 10am- 8pm. Pest VII, Holló u. 12-14. T: (+36 1)<br />

878 1301, www.holmesplace.hu Map E5<br />

LITE WELLNESS CLUB Aiming to improve their<br />

members’ quality of life, this club has trainers<br />

and instructors, as well as dieticians and<br />

physiotherapists. Open Mon-Fri 6am-10pm and<br />

Sat-Sun 8am-9pm. Buda XII, Lövőház u. 2-6. T:<br />

(+36 1) 310 7390, www.litewellness.hu<br />

OXYGEN WELLNESS NAPHEGY A fitness complex<br />

overlooking downtown Budapest, with<br />

exercise machines, an indoor swimming area,<br />

treatment services, saunas, and steam rooms,<br />

and even a restaurant and cocktail bar. Open<br />

Mon-Fri 6am-10:30pm, Sat-Sun 8am-8pm. Buda<br />

I, Naphegy u. 67. T: (+36 20) 393 4219, www.<br />

oxygenwellness.hu Map B6<br />

WORLDCLASS HEALTH ACADEMY Elite fitness<br />

centers at two different city locations with a<br />

variety of membership options. Open Mon-Fri<br />

6am-10pm and Sat-Sun 8am-9pm. Marriott<br />

Hotel: Pest V, Apáczai Csere János út 4-6. T: (+36<br />

1) 266 3804, www.worldclass.hu Map C-D5<br />

Golf Courses<br />

magyar These verdant links dating back to<br />

1911 are located on a peaceful Danube isle just<br />

north of Budapest. Kisoroszi, Golf út 1. www.<br />

magyargolfclub.hu<br />

pannonia This elegant country club features<br />

an 18-hole championship facility and Englishlanguage<br />

golf lessons. Máriavölgy, near Etyek. T:<br />

(+36 22) 594 200, www.golfclub.hu<br />

pRIVATE CLINICS<br />

DR. ROSE MEDICAL CENTER The advantages<br />

of a full-service hospital in a patient-oriented<br />

private clinic. Pest V, Széchenyi tér 7-8. T: (+36 1)<br />

377 6737, www.drrose.hu Map C4<br />

FIRSTMED CENTERS A subsidy of American<br />

Clinics International, this modern facility has<br />

preventative care, urgent care, and family<br />

medicine. By appointment Mon-Fri 8am-8pm<br />

and Sat 8am-2pm. Buda I, Hattyú u. 14. T: (+36 1)<br />

224 9090, www.firstmed.hu Map A3<br />

MEDICOVER International health care provider<br />

with centers across Central and Eastern Europe,<br />

including three in Budapest, focused on disease<br />

prevention. Open Mon-Fri 7am-8pm. Pest<br />

VI, Teréz krt. 55-57. T: (+36 1) 465 3100. www.<br />

medicover.com Map E3<br />

VIRÁNYOS CLINIC Located in the hushed Buda<br />

Hills, with preventative care, plastic surgery,<br />

and outpatient treatments. Also has 24-hour<br />

English-speaking urgent care. Open Mon-Fri<br />

8am-8pm. Buda XII, Virányos út 23/D. T: (+36 1)<br />

275 0377, www.viranyosklinika.hu<br />

Spas<br />

aquincum spa Offering beauty treatments<br />

utilizing the curative mud of Hévíz. Open daily<br />

6am-10pm. Buda III, Árpád fejedelem útja 94.<br />

T: (+36 1) 436 4130, www.aquincumhotel.com/<br />

hu/spa-es-wellness<br />

boscolo SPA Enjoy the benefits of this unique<br />

deluxe facility to relax and refresh your body<br />

and mind. The breathtaking design inspired by<br />

an Alpine ice tunnel, <strong>where</strong> lights are reflected<br />

from Swarowski crystals, provides an ideal<br />

place to escape from everyday rush. Enjoy a<br />

wide variety of facilities and treatments every<br />

day. Pest VII, Erzsébet krt. 9-11. T: (+36 1) 886<br />

6125, www.boscolohotels.com Map F5<br />

continental spa Luxurious rooftop wellness<br />

area offering indoor and outdoor pools, saunas,<br />

and a wide variety of modern amenities.<br />

Open 9am-9pm. Continental Hotel Budapest:<br />

Pest VII, Dohány u. 42-44. T: (+36 30) 914 8572,<br />

www.continentalhotelbudapest.com Map F5<br />

DANUBIUS HEALTH SPA MARGITSZIGET Day-spa<br />

visitors are welcome to indulge in hot mineral<br />

thermal baths, saunas, steam rooms, hydro<br />

pools, fitness, classes, and a choice of over 100<br />

medical or pampering treatments, conducted<br />

in pristine, elegant surroundings. Margaret<br />

Island. T: (+36 1) 889 4914, www.premierfitness.<br />

hu Map D0<br />

ISIS DAY SPA Luxurious treatments using some<br />

ancient Roman and Turkish techniques. Body<br />

wraps, beauty treatments, and couples packages.<br />

Try a rainforest shower, which combines<br />

a healing touch with dripping warm water.<br />

Open daily 10am-10pm. Pest VIII, Üllői út 14. T:<br />

(+36 1) 266 7788, www.isisdayspa.hu Map E6<br />

KEMPINSKI the SPA Relaxing wellness center<br />

overlooking Erzsébet Square, with deluxe<br />

amenities and a variety of treatments inspired<br />

by the European cycle of seasons. Open daily<br />

7am-10pm. Kempinski Hotel Corvinus: Pest<br />

V, Erzsébet tér 7-8. T: (+36 1) 429 3585, www.<br />

kempinski.com/budapest Map D5<br />

MASCULIN A fresh, exquisitely decorated<br />

gentlemen’s-only spa and day salon with treatments,<br />

pedicures and manicures. Pamper the<br />

softer side with makeup or body treatments<br />

in this sanctuary for the exigent male. Open<br />

Tue-Fri 10am-8pm and Sat noon-6pm. Pest<br />

XIII, Pozsonyi út 12. T: (+36 1) 786 4642, www.<br />

masculin.hu Map D2<br />

ROYAL SPA With a huge pool, fitness center, and<br />

full treatment services in a historic setting,<br />

the Royal Spa reigns as an elegant respite of<br />

serenity in the center of downtown. Open<br />

daily 6:30am-10pm. Corinthia Hotel Budapest:<br />

Pest VII, Erzsébet krt. 43-49. T: (+36 1) 479 4650,<br />

www.corinthia.com/budapest Map F4<br />

spa intercontinental Enjoy exquisite wellness<br />

treatments and spa services (including<br />

couples’ rubdowns and Japanese shiatsu) in<br />

this recently renovated facility. Open daily<br />

6am-10pm. InterContinental Budapest: Pest V,<br />

Apáczai Csere János u. 12-14. T: (+36 1) 327 6427,<br />

www.budapest.intercontinental.com Map C5<br />

THE SPA AT FOUR SEASONS HOTEL GRESHAM<br />

PALACE Offering an extensive range of rejuvenating<br />

therapies, services, and treatments using<br />

the best organic products. Located on the<br />

top floor of the hotel, the spa features private<br />

wellness and treatment rooms, unisex sauna,<br />

separate steam rooms for men and women,<br />

a whirlpool, and fitness facilities. Open daily<br />

6am-10pm. Pest V, Széchenyi tér 5-6. T: (+36 1)<br />

268 5500, www.fourseasons.com/budapest/<br />

spa.html Map C4<br />

Swimming Pools &<br />

Thermal Baths<br />

CSILLAGHEGY The oldest swimming pool in<br />

Budapest, built into a terraced hillside with a<br />

restaurant and separate pools for leisure, swimming,<br />

and children. Buda III, Pusztakúti út 2-6. T:<br />

(+36 1) 242 0754, www.csillaghegyistrand.hu<br />

GELLÉRT A turn-of-the-century spa complex adjacent<br />

to the Gellért Danubius Hotel. Mosaiccovered<br />

terraces and halls, also anoutdoor<br />

pool in summer. Open daily 6am-8pm. Buda<br />

XI, Szt. Gellért tér 1. T: (+36 1) 466 6166, www.<br />

gellertfurdo.hu Map D7<br />

KIRÁLY One of Budapest’s oldest Turkish baths,<br />

with original parts of the building dating back<br />

to the 16th century. All facilities are available to<br />

both men and women daily, with swimwear required.<br />

Open daily 9am-9pm. Buda II, Fő u. 84.<br />

T: (+36 1) 202 3688, www.kiralyfurdo.hu Map B3<br />

LUKÁCS A historic spa with a wide range of curative<br />

amenities and eight pools. It is one of the<br />

few spas <strong>where</strong> there are hardly any tourists.<br />

Open daily 6am-9pm. Buda II, Frankel Leó. u.<br />

25-29. T: (+36 1) 326 1695, www.lukacsfurdo.hu<br />

Map B1<br />

PALATINUS Located on Margaret Island, this<br />

premier summer waterpark encompasses<br />

many fun pools - including a wave pool <strong>where</strong><br />

guests can learn how to surf - water slides,<br />

sports grounds, along with sun beds in the<br />

lush garden. Open in summer, daily from 9am<br />

till early evening. Margaret Island XIII. T: (+36 1)<br />

236 0040, www.palatinusstrand.hu Map C1<br />

RUDAS Hungary’s most historic Turkish bath,<br />

built in the 16th century with stunning octagonal<br />

pool. But it also has several more modern<br />

facilities, including a wonderful yacuzzi pool<br />

on the roof, from <strong>where</strong> you have a magnificent<br />

view over the river Danube. Buda I, Döbrentei<br />

tér 9. T: (+36 1) 356 1322, www.rudasfurdo.<br />

hu Map C6<br />

SZÉCHENYI This beautiful building in City Park<br />

is the most famous and popular of Budapest’s<br />

baths, with outdoor and indoor thermal and<br />

swimming pools open year-round. Pest XIV,<br />

Állatkerti krt. 11. T: (+36 1) 363 3210, www.szechenyifurdo.hu<br />

Map G2<br />

VELI BEJ An old Turkish bath that is part of a<br />

hospital owned by the Ordo Hospitalarius. Its<br />

five thermal pools , including the octagonal<br />

dome, are open to the public in the mornings<br />

(6am-noon) and afternoons (3pm-9pm). Buda<br />

II, Árpád fejedelem útja 7, T: (+36 1) 438 8400<br />

Map B1<br />

20 WHERE BUDAPEST I OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong>


DINING<br />

October Fest<br />

The best brew in town<br />

Like the original Oktoberfest in Münich,<br />

Germany, this Paulaner Oktoberfest<br />

Budapest is a celebration of this favorite<br />

malty beverage, this year held at the Kincsem<br />

Park, the major horse race track in Budapest.<br />

Three huge tents have been erected (The<br />

Paulaner Tent, the Retro Party Tent and the<br />

Pschorr Tent) and beer lovers will be able to<br />

not only taste more than 300 sorts of beer,<br />

but there will also be a variety of typical meals<br />

from the Bayern region to choose from, such<br />

as Wiezn-Hendl (a grilled chicken variety) and<br />

Brezn (a type of bread). Live performances<br />

of over 50 artists/bands will entertain the<br />

public, and there are also horse and harness<br />

races and a childrens program. Tickets can<br />

be bought on the spot, free transport by bus<br />

from metro station Stadionok. Oct 5-8, Pest X,<br />

Kincsem Park, Albertirsai út 2-4, Off Map – www.<br />

oktoberfestbudapest.hu<br />

#budapest<br />

Squash your view of Hard Rock Cafe food – we’re rolling out vegetarian items<br />

for our meatless diet friends. Now available for a limited time!<br />

Budapest | Vörösmarty Square | Reservations: +36 30 572 4011<br />

www.<strong>where</strong>traveler.com 21


DINING<br />

Tea & Coffeehouses<br />

ANNA CAFÉ One of Budapest’s best places for<br />

people-watching, at two locations. www.<br />

annacafe.hu Open daily 8_30am-9pm at Pest<br />

V, Fővám tér 6. T: (+36 1) 266 2820 Map D6;<br />

Fri-Mon 8:30am-midnight and Tue-Wed<br />

8:30am-11pm at Pest V, Váci u. 5. T: (+36 1) 266<br />

9080 Map D5<br />

AUGUSZT The first Auguszt confectionery,<br />

reopened in 1957, with biscuits, cakes, and<br />

ice creams. www.auguszt.hu Open Mon-Fri<br />

9am-7pm and Sat 11am-6pm at Pest V, Kossuth<br />

Lajos u. 14-16. T: (+36 1) 337 6379 Map A3; Open<br />

Wed-Sun 10am-6pm at Buda XI, Sasadi út 190. T:<br />

(+36 1) 249 0134<br />

ANGELIKA Tranquil setting, pretty marzipan concoctions.<br />

Open April-October: 9am-midnight,<br />

November-March: 9am-11pm. Buda I, Batthyány<br />

tér 7. T: (+36 1) 225 1653, www.angelikacafe.hu<br />

Map B3<br />

Art nouveau café Small coffee house decorated<br />

with old-world furniture in unique Art<br />

Nouveau style, it also houses a small museum.<br />

Pest V, Honvéd u.3. T : (+36 1) 269 4622, www.<br />

magyarszecessziohaza.hu Map D3<br />

BAMBI ESZPRESSZÓ This popular café has a retro<br />

feel as it hasn’t been renovated since it opened<br />

its doors in the 1960s. With its red faux leather<br />

chairs, embroidered tablecloths, yellow-green<br />

mosaic pillars, and back corner <strong>where</strong> people<br />

play dominos, cards and board games, it is the<br />

perfect café (with terrace) to experience life as<br />

it was under communism. Open daily, Buda II,<br />

Frankel Leó utca 2-4. T: (+36 1)212 3171, Map B2<br />

CAFÉ ALIBI This recently renovated cozy spot<br />

serves premium coffee, tea, and cocoa drinks,<br />

along with breakfast and light entrees like<br />

sandwiches and salads. Open daily 8am-11pm.<br />

Pest V, Egyetem tér 4. T: (+36 1) 317 4209, www.<br />

cafealibi.hu Map E3<br />

CENTRÁL CAFÉ Old-fashioned splendor with fine<br />

dining and tasty pastries. The first old coffee<br />

house to reopen in the 90s. Open daily 8am-<br />

11pm. Pest V, Károlyi Mihály u. 9. T: (+36 1) 266<br />

2110, www.centralkavehaz.hu Map D6<br />

ECO CAFÉ Enjoy delicious organic coffees,<br />

teas and healthy snacks: including biscuits,<br />

sandwiches, salads, and pastries at this ecoconscious<br />

eatery. Whenever possible, products<br />

are fairly traded for guilt-free indulgence. Open<br />

Mon-Sat 7am-8pm, Sun 8am-8pm. Pest VI,<br />

Andrássy út 68. www.ecocafe.hu Map E3<br />

ELSŐ PESTI TEAHÁZ One of the best selections<br />

of teas in the city. Open Mon-Fri 10am-6pm<br />

and Sat 10am-2pm. Pest XIII, Katona J. u. 5. T:<br />

(+36 1) 359 3028, www.elso-pesti-teahaz.hu<br />

Map D2<br />

FARGER Inviting, casual café overlooking historical<br />

and verdant Szabadság Square. Open<br />

Mon-Fri 7am-9pm and Sat-Sun 9am-6pm. Pest<br />

V, Zoltán u. 18. T: (+36 20) 237 7825, www.farger.<br />

hu Map D4<br />

GERBEAUD Budapest’s world-famous historic<br />

coffeehouse with old-time elegance right in<br />

the center of town. Open daily 9am-9pm. Pest<br />

V, Vörösmarty tér 7-8. T: (+36 1) 429 9000, www.<br />

gerbeaud.hu Map D5<br />

MIRAGE CAFÉ AND TERRACE This café offers<br />

a good view of Heroes Square (Hősök tér), a<br />

small à la cart menu, cocktails, and water pipes<br />

(hookah). Open daily 10am-10pm, Pest VI,<br />

Dózsa György út 88. T: (+36 1) 462 7070, www.<br />

miragehotelbudapest.com Map G2<br />

MLINAR The venerable Croatian bakery now<br />

offers tasty pastries and sandwiches in cafés at<br />

two Budapest locations. www.mlinar.hr Open<br />

Mon-Fri 7am-8pm, Sat 8am-6pm and Sun<br />

8am-3pm at Pest VIII, Corvin sétány 1/A-1/B Map<br />

F7; Open Mon-Fri 7am-7pm at Pest IX, Lechner<br />

Ödön fasor 7 Map F9<br />

NEW YORK CAFÉ AND SALON Both are Michelin<br />

recommended and situated in the gloriously<br />

decorated baroque New York palace which is<br />

one of Budapest’s most legendary buildings.<br />

Pest VII, Erzsébet krt. 9-11. T: (+36 1) 886 6167,<br />

www.newyorkcafe.hu Map F5<br />

RUSZWURM Charming Castle District café dating<br />

back to 1827, with a beautiful interior. Cash only.<br />

Open daily 10am-7pm. Buda I, Szentháromság<br />

u. 7. T: (+36 1) 375 5284, www.ruszwurm.hu<br />

Map B4<br />

SUGAR! A wonderland of sweets, including freshbaked<br />

cupcakes and delicious ice cream. Open<br />

Mon noon-10pm, Tue-Sun 10:30am-10pm. Pest<br />

VI, Paulay Ede u. 48. T: (+36 1) 321 6672, www.<br />

sugarshop.hu Map E4<br />

SZAMOS GOURMET PALACE This confectionery,<br />

coffeehouse, and chocolatier is now open at<br />

Vörösmarty Square, <strong>where</strong> pralines are made<br />

fresh before guests’ eyes and candy-making<br />

lessons are offered by a chocolate master.<br />

Varied menu available daily at noon. Open<br />

daily 8:30am-9pm. Pest V, Váci u. 1. T: (+36 30)<br />

570 5973, www.szamosmarcipan.hu and www.<br />

csokoladeiskola.hu Map D5<br />

SZAMOS MARCIPÁN Original cookie, cake, and<br />

ice cream specialties, marzipan gift wrappings<br />

and chocolate desserts. Open daily 10am-7pm.<br />

Pest V, Párizsi u. 3. T: (+36 1) 317 3643, www.<br />

szamosmarcipan.hu Map D5<br />

ZILA KÁVÉHÁZ Elegant coffeehouse with an<br />

early-20th-century atmosphere. Open daily<br />

10am-10pm. Pest XVIII, Üllői út 452. T: (+36 1) 290<br />

2417, www.zilakavehaz.hu<br />

Hungarian<br />

21 Michelin recommended. Casual Hungarian restaurant<br />

<strong>where</strong> locals go for real regional flavors<br />

like they used to be, with only characteristic<br />

Hungarian wines. In Buda’s medieval Castle<br />

District. Buda I, Fortuna u. 21. T: (+36 1) 202 2113,<br />

www.21restaurant.hu Map B4<br />

ARANY KAVIÁR Michelin recommended place<br />

for fine dining with a wide range of top-caliber<br />

caviar, excellent seafood selection, and exquisite<br />

Hungarian dishes. Buda I, Ostrom u. 19. T:<br />

(+36 1) 201 6737, www.aranykaviar.hu Map A3<br />

ARAZ Michelin recommended. The restaurant<br />

is part of the Zara Intercontinental hotel in<br />

the Jewish quarter and offers Hungarian and<br />

French cuisine in the elegant Art Nouveau<br />

ambience of a former Bath House. Pest VII,<br />

Dohány u. 42-44. T: (+36 1) 815 1100, www.araz.<br />

hu Map F5<br />

ART’OTEL Michelin recommended hotel restaurant<br />

on the Buda embankment almost opposite<br />

Parliament. Modern Hungarian cuisine<br />

and modern interior with original artworks<br />

on the walls. Views over the river. Buda I, Bem<br />

Rakpart 16-19, T: (+36 1) 487 9439, www.artotels.<br />

com, Map B4<br />

BAbel Michelin recommended fine dining<br />

restaurant in the heart of the city, focusing on<br />

seasonal, regional delicacies with the majority<br />

of the raw material coming from Hungary, just<br />

like the decorations and materials used in the<br />

restaurant. Pest V, Piarista köz 2. T: (+36 70) 6000<br />

800, www.babel-budapest.hu Map D6<br />

BALTAZÁR A Michelin recommended familyowned<br />

gastro playground with a warm and<br />

friendly atmosphere. Enjoy gourmet street<br />

food made with fresh ingredients, along with<br />

notable wines of the Carpathian Basin. Buda<br />

I, Országház u. 31. T: (+36 1) 300 7050, www.<br />

baltazarbudapest.com Map A4<br />

BOCK BISTRO Two Michelin recommended<br />

restaurants, one located in the Corinthia Hotel<br />

building in downtown Pest, the other in a<br />

modern glass and wood building with big terrace<br />

in a leafy part of Buda. Both serve modern<br />

Hungarian food and wonderful Hungarian<br />

wines. www.bockbisztro.hu Pest VII, Erzsébet<br />

krt. 43-49. T: (+36 1) 321 0340, Map F4 (closed on<br />

Sun); Buda XII, Szarvas Gábor út 8. T: (+36 1) 376<br />

6044, Off Map (closed on Mon and Tue).<br />

BORkantin With almost 40 different wines on<br />

the menu, this Michelin recommended restaurant<br />

is offering Hungarian and international<br />

delicacies made from seasonal, high-quality<br />

ingredients, which can be accompanied with<br />

the most suitable wines. Pest V, Váci u 83. T: (+36<br />

1) 794 5385, www.borkantin.hu Map D6<br />

BORKONYHA The Michelin recommended<br />

“Winekitchen” is a bustling wine-orientated<br />

blend of a French-style bistro and a contemporary<br />

family restaurant near the Basilica, offering<br />

the best of Hungarian cuisine. Shaded terrace<br />

in spring and summer. Pest V, Sas utca 3, T: (+36<br />

1) 266 0835, www.borkonyha.hu Map D4<br />

BRASSERIE & ATRIUM Michelin recommended<br />

restaurant that is part of the elegant Corinthia<br />

Hotel. Fne lunches and dinners, and gourmet<br />

Sunday brunches with many classic Hungarian<br />

dishes. Pest VII, Erzsébet krt. 43-49. T: (+36 1) 479<br />

4850, www.corinthia.com/budapest Map F4<br />

BUDAPEST TERRACE CAFÉ & RESTAURANT Situated<br />

at the foot of the Palace on Castle Hill, it<br />

offers modern Hungarian and Italian dishes and<br />

an amazing panorama of Budapest. Seating on<br />

several levels. Buda I, Buda Castle. T: (+36 30) 375<br />

6774, www.budapestterrace.hu Map B5<br />

COSTES The older Costes in Ráday street has had<br />

a Michein star for years, but the new Costes<br />

Downtown in Vigyázó street also got one more<br />

recently. Both restaurants serve accomplished<br />

innovative dishes by a talented chef who<br />

photo: MAJTIKA FOTÓ<br />

22 WHERE BUDAPEST I OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong>


DINING<br />

www.<strong>where</strong>traveler.com 23<br />

177x124_<strong>where</strong>_magyarizek_arazENG_09.20.indd 1 20/09/17 11:29


DINING<br />

RESTAURANTS of the MONTH<br />

Pest V, Hold utca 13, Map D4, Closed on Sun,<br />

T: (+36 30) 430 0142, www.facebook.com/Kispiac<br />

KISPIAC BISZTRÓ<br />

It’s a small old-style neighborhood bistro just off Szabadság<br />

(Freedom) Square, serving traditional Hungarian food in a<br />

very homey atmosphere. In fact, it is so traditional that it<br />

doesn’t have an English language website or menu, but that<br />

shouldn’t deter you, as staff are very friendly and helpful. The<br />

menu varies almost daily and ingredients come straight from<br />

the adjacent local market, the Vásárcsarnok. Kispiac offers<br />

homemade jams, various roasts, grilled chicken or duck,<br />

pickled vegetables, and various other typically Hungarian<br />

specialties. It is also a very nice place for a traditional<br />

Hungarian lunch. There are only 10 tables or so inside and<br />

three or four outside on the street, so be in time.<br />

BOCK BISZTRÓ PEST<br />

This Michelin-Guide recommended restaurant opened<br />

in 2004, when well-known winemaker József Bock joined<br />

forces with a local chef, Lajos Bíró. The idea was to create<br />

an up-market wine bar with an ambitious menu of modern<br />

Hungarian cuisine mixed with imported flavors and<br />

ingredients. There are now two more Bock restaurants in<br />

Hungary (one in Buda, one near Lake Balaton) and one<br />

abroad. According to a Michelin inspector, Bock Bisztró Pest,<br />

situated in the luxurious Corinthia Hotel building, is a “busy<br />

and buzzy” bistro with a friendly and knowledgeable staff, its<br />

cooking is “gutsy” and traditional with a modern twist ), and<br />

the shelves are packed with interesting wines.<br />

Pest VII, Erzsébet krt. 43-49, Map F4,<br />

T: (36 1) 321 0340, www.bockbisztro.hu<br />

Pest V, Ferenciek tere 7-8, Map D6,<br />

T: (+36 1) 317 3596, www.karpatia.hu<br />

KÁRPÁTIA<br />

Kárpátia offers authentic and modern Hungarian food with<br />

superb live gypsy music in a special turn-of-the-century<br />

atmosphere. The food is of high-quality and there is a wide<br />

range of choice, such as very traditional dishes from various<br />

regions in the Carpathian basin, as well as all sorts of modern<br />

Hungarian cuisine. The spirited gypsy orchestra, which plays<br />

every night, is led by Lajos Sárközi senior, one of the very<br />

best prímás (violin maestro) in the country. Finally, the interior<br />

of the restaurant, which has been open since 1877 and is<br />

located in an old convent, is colorfully painted and features<br />

gilded walls and old wooden furniture. It’s location in the<br />

heart of Pest makes it very easy to reach.<br />

24 WHERE BUDAPEST I OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong>


DINING<br />

uses modern techniques. Costes Downtown<br />

has a somewhat more relaxed atmosphere.<br />

Costes, Pest IX, Ráday u. 4. T: (+36 1) 219 0696,<br />

Map E6 Costes Downtown, Pest V, Vigyázó<br />

Ferenc u. 5. T: (+36 1) 920 1015, Map E4 www.<br />

costes.hu<br />

DÉRYNÉ BISTRO Michelin recommended<br />

bistro and café dating back to 1914 with a full<br />

breakfast menu, seasonal lunch specials and<br />

gourmet dinners. Buda I, Krisztina tér 3. T: (+36<br />

1) 225 1407, www.bistroderyne.com Map B5<br />

ÉS Michelin recommended restaurant. Enjoy<br />

tasting-size portions of Hungarian and Austrian<br />

specialties served in a stylishly laid-back bistro<br />

overlooking Fashion Street. Highlights include<br />

grilled steaks and fine regional wines. Pest<br />

V, Deák Ferenc u. 12-14. www.esbisztro.hu<br />

Map D5<br />

GRESHAM RESTAURANT Michelin recommended<br />

restaurant in the Jugendstill Gresham Palace<br />

that houses the Four Seasons hotel. Magnificent<br />

view of the riverfront with Chain Bridge<br />

and Castle Hill. Pest V, Széchenyi tér 5. T: (+36<br />

1) 268 6000, www.fourseasons.com/budapest<br />

Map C4<br />

GUNDEL Michelin recommended and highly<br />

elegant restaurant in City Park that serves upscale<br />

Hungarian gastronomy. Pest XIV, Gundel<br />

Károly út 4. T: (+36 1) 468 4040, www.gundel.<br />

hu Map G2<br />

HALÁSZBÁSTYA Boasting spectacular Danube<br />

and Pest views from its fairy-tale location in a<br />

Fishermen’s Bastion tower on Castle Hill, this<br />

regal restaurant serves Hungarian delicacies<br />

like Grey Cattle, Mangalica ham, and wild<br />

game. Truly quality food. Buda I, Fishermen’s<br />

Bastion. T: (+36 1) 201 6935, www.halaszbastya.<br />

eu Map B4<br />

Kispiac bisztró Old-style neighborhood bistro<br />

just of Szabadság Square, serving traditional<br />

Hungarian food in a homey atmosphere. The<br />

menu varies almost daily and ingredients come<br />

straight from the adjacent local market, the<br />

Vásárcsarnok. The menu is i Hungarian only,<br />

but sevice is very friendly. Closed on Sun. Pest<br />

V, Hold u. 13. T: (+36 30) 430 0142, www.kispiac.<br />

eu Map D4<br />

KŐLEVES Hot spot in the heart of the Jewish<br />

district. The restaurantserves filling Hungarian<br />

cuisine with Jewish specialties such as<br />

bakedbeans and goose legs and alsocaters for<br />

people who prefer vegetarian. In the adjacent<br />

garden ruin pub you can get typical pub food.<br />

Pest VII, Kazinczy u. 41. T: (+36 20) 213 5999,<br />

www.koleves.com Map E4<br />

L19 Michelin recommended restaurant which is<br />

part of the modern L19 Design Hotel on the<br />

Buda embankment. Contemporary and traditional<br />

dishes, nice view towards the Danube<br />

and Chain Bridge. Buda I, Lánchíd u. 19, T: (+36<br />

1) 457 1200, www.lanchid19hotel.hu Map C5<br />

Laci! konyha! Sophisticated boutique restaurant<br />

offering traditional Hungarian delicacies<br />

with high quality ingredients in a trendy, industrial<br />

setting. Recommended by the Michelin<br />

Guide. Pest XIII, Hegedűs Gyula u. 56. T: (+36 70)<br />

370 7475, www.lacikonyha.com Map D1<br />

T I M E L E S S K I T C H E N<br />

1 9 8 9<br />

DINING<br />

H - 1 0 5 2 B u d a p e s t ,<br />

V i g a d ó t é r 3 . k i k ö t ő<br />

t e l . : + 3 6 . 1 . 4 1 1 . 0 9 . 3 3<br />

...by the Chain Bridge!<br />

w w w. s p o o n r e s t a u r a n t s . h u<br />

www.<strong>where</strong>traveler.com 25


DINING<br />

MÁK BISTRO A welcoming Michelin recommended<br />

hangout for high-quality haute<br />

cuisine served without pretension. Seasonal<br />

dishes created with artistic flair and extraordinary<br />

Hungarian wines. Closed on Mon. Pest V,<br />

Vigyázó Ferenc u. 4. T: (+36 30) 723 9383, www.<br />

mak.hu Map C4<br />

MÚZEUM Fine cuisine, excellent range of Hungarian<br />

wines, beautiful old fashioned interior.<br />

Closed on Sun. Pest VIII, Múzeum krt. 12. T: (+36<br />

1) 267 0375, www. muzeumkavehaz.hu Map E6<br />

NAGY FATÁL KONYHÁJA FLocated near the main<br />

shopping area of Váci street, this eatery offers<br />

traditional Hungarian food along with grilled<br />

meats prepared in an open kitchen. Pest VI,<br />

Kigyó utca 4, www.nagyfatal.hu Map D6<br />

NEW YORK CAFÉ AND SALON Both are Michelin<br />

recommended and situated in the gloriously<br />

decorated baroque New York palace which is<br />

one of Budapest’s most legendary buildings. You<br />

can go for a coffee or a meal in the restaurant<br />

(modern Hungarian in a grand style).. Pest VII,<br />

Erzsébet krt. 9-11. T: (+36 1) 886 6167, www.newyorkcafe.hu<br />

www.salonrestaurant.hu Map F5<br />

ONYX One of the view restaurants with a<br />

Michelin star, this place is glamorous and ostentatious.<br />

Closed on Sun, booking absolutely<br />

essential. Pest V, Vörösmarty tér 7-8. T: (+36 30)<br />

508 0622, www.onyxrestaurant.hu Map D5<br />

PALACE CAFÉ this restaurant located on the<br />

ground floor of the Novotel hotel serves Hungarian<br />

and French specialties. Pest VIII, Rákóczi<br />

út 43-45. T: (+36 1) 477 5485 Map F5<br />

P2 This lounge restaurant next to the Basilica<br />

offers international and Hungarian specialties,<br />

menus prepared by master chefs, and wines of<br />

select quality. Pest V, Sas u. 9. T: (+36 1) 222 4422,<br />

www.p2budapest.com Map D4<br />

PEPPERS! Featuring a panoramic Danube view<br />

from its raised terrace, this contemporary grill<br />

fuses Hungarian produce with Mediterranean<br />

flavors. Part of the Budapest Marriott Hotel:<br />

Pest V, Apáczai Csere János u. 4. T: (+36 1) 737<br />

7377, www.peppers.hu Map D5<br />

PESTI DISZNÓ Michelin recommended contemporary<br />

bistro serving fresh Hungarian cuisine<br />

and many local wines by the glass. Pest VI,<br />

Nagymező u. 19. T: (+36 1) 951 4061, www.<br />

pestidiszno.hu Map E4<br />

PIERROT Michelin recommended restaurant<br />

with modern Hungarian fine cuisine, carefully<br />

selected wines, a romantic open-air winter<br />

garden, and live piano music in the heart of the<br />

Castle District. Buda I, Fortuna u. 14. T: (+36 1)<br />

375 6971, www.pierrot.hu Map B4<br />

PRESIDENT Michelin recommended restaurant<br />

on top of the hotel with the same name. The<br />

only place with a full view on the magnificent<br />

Jugendstil roof of the Postal Savings Bank, build<br />

by Ődön Lechner. Pest V, Hold u. 3-5, T: (+36 1)<br />

373 8200, www.hotelpresident.hu Map D4<br />

ROBINSON Romantic location on its own island<br />

in a tree-lined pond in the City Park. Light business<br />

lunches, Latin guitar every night. Pest XIV,<br />

in City Park. T: (+36 1) 422 0222, www.robinsonrestaurant.hu<br />

Map G2<br />

SOUL CAFÉ Cosy atmosphere, a mix of Hungarian<br />

and Mediterranean cuisine but always with a<br />

twist, and very reasonably priced. Pest IX, Ráday<br />

u. 11-13. T: (+36 1) 217 6986, www.soulcafe.hu<br />

Map E6<br />

SPINOZA CAFÉ A cozy, romantic, and traditional<br />

Hungarian restaurant with a Jewish touch. Live<br />

piano music nightly and klezmer shows every<br />

Friday evening. Pest VII, Dob u. 15. T: (+36 1) 413<br />

7488, www.spinozacafe.hu Map E5<br />

SPOON CAFÉ & LOUNGE Riverboat restaurant<br />

docked on the Danube Promenade offering<br />

international cuisine and panoramic Budapest<br />

riverfront views. Pest V, moored on the Pest riverbank<br />

by the Chain Bridge. T: (+36 1) 411 0933,<br />

www.spooncafe.hu Map C5<br />

TIGRIS This timelessly elegant Michelin rcommended<br />

spot serves only the freshest ingredients<br />

and finest cuts of meat when preparing<br />

familiar dishes. Closed on Sun, Pest V, Mérleg<br />

u. 10. T: (+36 1) 317 3715, www.tigrisrestaurant.<br />

hu Map D4<br />

TRÓFEA GRILL RESTAURANTS Eat and drink as<br />

much as you like for a fixed price, on three locations<br />

in downtown Buda and Pest, www.trofea.<br />

hu Buda II, Margit krt. 2. T: (+36 1) 438 9090<br />

Map B2; Pest VI, Király u. 30-32. T: (+36 20) 999<br />

8797 Map E4; Pest XIII, Visegrádi u. 50/A. T: (+36<br />

1) 270 0366 Map E1<br />

up&down Modern Hungarian cuisine (some<br />

of it with an interesting Asian infusion) and<br />

simple street-food meals for a quick meal to<br />

be enjoyed on one of the two small terraces<br />

overlooking the square with Central Market<br />

Hall and the river Danube with Gellért Hill. T:<br />

(+36 1) 226 2329. Pest V, Fővám tér 1, Map D6,<br />

www.facebook.com/Upandown<br />

Véndiak A favorite local hangout since 1938 that<br />

offers mdern Hungarian cuisine. In spring and<br />

summer, it has an inviting terrace on University<br />

square. Pest V, Egyetem tér 5, T: (+36 1) 267 0226,<br />

www.vendiaketterem.hu Map E6<br />

Vintage garden This romantic Provencal bistro<br />

is a haven amidst the shabby ruin-pubs. Pest VII,<br />

Dob u. 21. T: (+36 30) 790 6619, www.facebook.<br />

com/vintagegardenbudapest Map E5<br />

InTERNATIONAL<br />

1ST JOHN BULL SPORT PUB This<br />

popular restaurant offers full English<br />

breakfasts and ale on tap. Live sports,<br />

free Wi-Fi. Pest V, Apáczai Csere János<br />

u. 17. T: (+36 1) 338 2168, www.johnbullsportpub.hu<br />

Map C5<br />

ARANY KAVIÁR RESTAURANT Michelin recommended<br />

place for fine dining with a wide<br />

range of top-caliber caviar, excellent seafood<br />

selection, and exquisite Hungarian fresh water<br />

fish selection. It is one of the few restaurants<br />

located at the foot of Castle Hill. Buda I, Ostrom<br />

u. 19. T: (+36 1) 201 6737, www.aranykaviar.hu<br />

Map A3<br />

CHEZ DANIEL RESTAURANT French food cooked<br />

to order with seasonal local ingredients and<br />

fresh daily specials. Pest VI, Szív u. 32. T: (+36 1)<br />

302 4039, www.chezdaniel.hu Map F3<br />

FAUSTO’S Sit in the linen-laid tables in the<br />

restaurant or the more casual, wood-furnished,<br />

Michelin recommended osteria. Menus offer<br />

simple, rustic Italian classics. Closed on Sun..<br />

Pest VII, Dohány u. 3-5. T: (+36 1) 269 6806, www.<br />

fausto.hu Map E5<br />

HUNTER-VADÁSZ<br />

GASTRO&SPORT PUB Fancy good<br />

deer goulash or hot deer stew?<br />

Amazing fine venison dishes and<br />

pub grubs (burgers, fish and chips<br />

etc.). Live sports, free wifi. Pest V,<br />

Podmaniczky tér 4. T: (+36 1) 269<br />

3116 facebook: Vadasz Gastro Pub<br />

Map D4<br />

JACK DOYLE’S Offering the best of traditional<br />

Irish fare married to local Hungarian specialties,<br />

with weekday lunch specials. Global sports<br />

broadcasts. Pest V, Pilvax köz 1-3. T: (+36 1) 796<br />

9009, www.jackdoyles.hu Map D5<br />

KNRDY Stylish New York style steakhouse with<br />

designer furnishings and a street scene mural.<br />

Choose your steak from the display. Pest V,<br />

Oktober 6 u. 15, T: (+36 1) 788 1685, www.knrdy.<br />

com Map D4<br />

MOMOTARO RAMEN Noodles, dim sum and<br />

spicy Szechuanese dishes. They also serve<br />

wonderful soups (ramen) for a very decent<br />

price. The real Chinese stuff so no wonder the<br />

place swarms with Chinese guests. Closed on<br />

Mon. Pest V, Széchenyi u. 16. T: (+ 36 1) 269 3802,<br />

www.momotaroramen.com Map C4<br />

NOBU Michelin rcommended new-style Japanese<br />

restaurant. Yellowtail sashimi with jalapeno<br />

and Alaskan black cod with den miso are just<br />

two of the signiture dishes found on the menu.<br />

Kempinski Hotel Corvinus: Pest V, Erzsébet tér<br />

7-8. T: (+36 1) 429 4242, www.noburestaurants.<br />

com/budapest Map D5<br />

PORCELLINO Exquisite Italian cuisine offered in<br />

an ambience that is sophisticated yet childfriendly.<br />

Buda II, Ady Endre u. 19. T: (+36 1) 886<br />

7880, www.porcellino.hu<br />

PHILIPPE LE BELGE Gourmet Belgian seafood<br />

restaurant, renowned for oysters and mussels.<br />

Closed on Sun and Mon. Pest XIII, Balzac u. 35. T:<br />

(+36 1) 350 0411 Map D2<br />

rickshaw Serving authentic dishes from across<br />

the Orient in an atmosphere that elegantly reflects<br />

the traditional décor of the Far East. Taste<br />

the latest creations of the eatery’s highly qualified<br />

Chinese chef. Open Wed-Sun 6pm-11pm.<br />

Pest VII, Erzsébet krt. 43-49. T: (+36 1) 479 4855,<br />

www.corinthia.com/budapest Map F4<br />

TAJ MAHAL An irresistible selection of Indian fare,<br />

including North and South Indian specialties.<br />

Home deliveries too. Closed on Mon. Pest VI,<br />

Szondi u. 40. T: (+36 1) 301 0447, www.tajmahal.<br />

hu Map E3<br />

with gypsy music<br />

100 ÉVES The “100 Years Old” restaurant is the<br />

oldest in Budapest and in fact dates from 1831.<br />

Traditional Hungarian and international cuisine<br />

26 WHERE BUDAPEST I OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong>


DINING<br />

amidst rustic furnishing. Excellent gypsy music<br />

in the evening hours. Pest V, Piarista u. 2, T: (+36<br />

1) 230 0329, www.100evesetterem.hu, Map D5<br />

DUNACORSO A restaurant on the river promenade<br />

in Pest looking out at Castle Hill. The<br />

kitchen is a mix of traditional Hungarian and<br />

international dishes and there is an outstanding<br />

Gypsy orchestra. Pest V, Vigadó tér 3, T: (+36<br />

1) 318 6362, www.dunacorso.hu Map C5<br />

KÁRPÁTIA Traditional Hungarian food in the<br />

colorfully decorated surroundings of a former<br />

monastery, open since 1877. A very renowned<br />

Gypsy band plays nightly. Pest V, Ferenciek tere<br />

7-8. T: (+36 1) 317 3596, www.karpatia.hu Map D6<br />

KÉHLI Savor local specialties like bone-marrow<br />

soup and pike-perch fillet while being serenaded<br />

by Gypsy musicians at this century-old<br />

restaurant. Buda III, Mókus u. 22. T: (+36 1) 250<br />

4241, www.kehli.hu<br />

ÚJ SIPOS HALÁSZKERT Situated at a charming<br />

square in Old Buda (Óbuda), it offers traditional<br />

Hungarian food and live gypsy music. Buda III,<br />

Fő tér 6, T: (+36 1) 388 8745, www.ujsipos.hu<br />

VÖRÖS POSTAKOCSI Since<br />

1972, the “Red Mail Coach”<br />

restaurant offers authentic<br />

Hungarian cuisine and live<br />

Gypsy music. Pest IX, Ráday u.<br />

15. T: (+36 1) 217 6756, www.<br />

vorospk.com Map E7<br />

Take a shot for a free shot!<br />

hungarianhellkitchen.com<br />

DINING<br />

Hungarian traditions<br />

and tastes in the<br />

heart of Budapest<br />

If you are a lover of grilling,<br />

if you have love the smell and<br />

also the presentation of the<br />

special charcoal grilled food<br />

tasting, you can find it all here!<br />

Make yourself at home!<br />

1052 Budapest,<br />

Kígyó street 4.<br />

(near Ferenciek tere)<br />

+36 1 787 8736<br />

Open: M-Su:<br />

11:00-23:00<br />

Wolf András<br />

Executive Chef<br />

Salon<br />

Restaurant<br />

Boscolo Budapest Hotel<br />

New York Palace<br />

Tel.: +36 1 886 6167<br />

reservation@salonrestaurant.hu<br />

www.salonrestaurant.hu<br />

www.<strong>where</strong>traveler.com 27


ESSENTIALS<br />

This section contains information on getting<br />

around Budapest, plus many tips.<br />

EMBASSIES AND CONSULATES<br />

Austrian Embassy Pest VI, Benczúr u. 16.<br />

T: (+36 1) 479 7010 Map F3<br />

British Embassy Pest V, Harmincad u. 6.<br />

T: (+36 1) 266 2888 Map D5<br />

Canadian Embassy Buda II, Ganz u. 12 14. T:<br />

(+36 1) 392 3360 Map B3<br />

Croat Consulate Pest VI, Munkácsy Mihály u.<br />

15. T: (+36 1) 354 1315 Map F2<br />

dutch Embassy Buda II, Kapás u. 6-12.<br />

T: (+36 1) 336 6300 Map B3<br />

French Embassy Pest VI, Lendvay u. 27.<br />

T: (+36 1) 374 1100 Map G2<br />

German Embassy Buda I, Úri u. 64 66.<br />

T: (+36 1) 488 3500 Map H3<br />

israeli Embassy Buda II, Fullánk u. 8.<br />

T: (+36 1) 392 6200<br />

Romanian Embassy Pest XIV, Thököly út 72.<br />

T: (+36 1) 384 7689 (near Map H3)<br />

Russian Embassy Pest VI, Bajza u. 35.<br />

T: (+36 1) 302 5230 Map F3<br />

Serbian Embassy Pest VII, Dózsa György út<br />

92/A. T: (+36 1) 322 9838 Map G3<br />

Slovak Embassy Pest XIV, Stefánia út 22.<br />

T: (+36 1) 460 9011 (near Map H3)<br />

Slovenian Embassy Buda II, Cseppkő u. 68. T:<br />

(+36 1) 438 5600<br />

Swiss Embassy Pest XIV, Stefánia út 107.<br />

T: (+36 1) 460 7040 Map H3<br />

Ukrainian Embassy Buda XIV, Stefánia út 77. T:<br />

(+36 1) 422 4120 Map H3<br />

United States Embassy Pest V, Szabadság tér<br />

12. T: (+36 1) 475 4400 Map D4<br />

USEFUL INFORMATION<br />

LOST AND FOUND For articles lost on public<br />

transportation, go to Pest VII, Akácfa u. 18.<br />

T: (+36 1) 258 4636 Map F5<br />

MEDICAL EMERGENCIES Call (+36 1) 311 1666<br />

for an English or German speaker, or 104 for<br />

Hungarian.<br />

24 HOUR PHARMACIES Will dispense routine<br />

medications without a prescription. Pest VI,<br />

Teréz körút 41 (T: (+36 1) 311 4439), Buda II,<br />

Frankel Leó u. 22 (T: (+36 1) 212 4406), Buda XII,<br />

Alkotás út 1/B (T: (+36 1) 355 4691)<br />

POLICE CRIME PREVENTION<br />

Like in any major metropolis, visitors should take<br />

precautions to protect themselves from criminal<br />

activity. Do not leave belongings unattended, or<br />

leave valuables in your car, and keep an eye on<br />

your bags. In case you do become a crime victim,<br />

please report the incident to the nearest police<br />

station as soon as possible, or go directly to<br />

the nearest hotel, <strong>where</strong> the staff can help you<br />

file a report promptly with the proper authorities<br />

closest to the scene of the crime. Otherwise,<br />

Budapest’s emergency phone numbers are 107<br />

and 112, or log onto www.police.hu/brfk for a<br />

complete list of police stations.<br />

DIRECTORY ASSISTANCE Dial 198.<br />

INTERNATIONAL OPERATOR Dial 104<br />

or (+36 1) 311 1666.<br />

POST OFFICES The post offices at Keleti<br />

(Map G4) and Nyugati (Map D-E3) stations are<br />

open every day from 7am-9pm. To send a letter<br />

via airmail, ask for légiposta (LAY ghee posh ta).<br />

Telephone codes Budapest landlines (+36 1),<br />

T-Mobile: (+36 30), Telenor: (+36 20), Vodafone:<br />

(+36 70)<br />

looking around<br />

ART MARKET – page 5<br />

NAVIGATING BUDAPEST<br />

The city of Budapest clusters around the great Danube River, which<br />

slices it in half on a curving north-south axis. The hilly west bank<br />

is Buda, the flat east bank is Pest – two totally separate towns until<br />

1873, when they were united to form today’s capital city. Modern<br />

Budapest is divided into 23 districts (called “kerület”), each designated<br />

by a Roman numeral. The two districts you will spend most<br />

time in are Buda I (Castle Hill, Buda’s old medieval center) and Pest<br />

V (downtown Pest, a robust, confident, turn-of-the-century area<br />

containing the Parliament, banks and financial centers, as well as the<br />

best shopping). See our detailed map on pages 38-39 for a reliable<br />

city reference.<br />

TOURIST INFO OFFICES Tourinform offices are<br />

found around the city. The most useful is at<br />

Deák Ferenc Square next to the McDonald’s.<br />

Open daily 8am-8pm. Pest V, Sütő u. 2, T: (+36<br />

1) 438 8080 Map D5. Another helpful office<br />

is at Pest VI, Liszt Ferenc tér 11. Open daily<br />

noon-8pm. T: (+36 1) 322 4098 Map E4. Tourist<br />

information offices are also open daily at Budapest<br />

Airport. At all of these locations you can<br />

purchase the Budapest Card, which covers all<br />

public transportation and provides discounted<br />

access to major museums, spas, restaurants,<br />

and attractions. www.budapestinfo.hu<br />

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION Budapest has an<br />

extensive public transportation system with<br />

buses, trams, trolleys, and four metro lines.<br />

Most lines operate daily from 4am to about<br />

midnight, trams 4 and 6 operate all night as<br />

do several night buses. Tickets are available<br />

at ticket machines (also English) and booths<br />

(“pénztár”) in metro underpasses. To validate<br />

a ticket (not necessary for daily, long-term<br />

passes, or season tickets), insert it into the<br />

orange or red boxes at the metro entrances, or<br />

aboard buses and trams. Tickets are not always<br />

checked on buses and trams, but ticket inspectors,<br />

who identify themselves with armbands<br />

or ID cards, may board the vehicles to check<br />

that passengers have validated tickets. Fines<br />

can be paid on the spot. See www.bkk.hu<br />

for more details. There are single and section<br />

tickets, as well as a discount book (10 single<br />

tickets), a 24-hour or 72-hour card (valid on all<br />

forms of public transportation), and seven-day<br />

, two-week and one-month passes.<br />

photo: László Mészáros<br />

28 WHERE BUDAPEST I OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong>


ESSENTIALS<br />

My Favorite Budapest...<br />

TRAIN STATIONS<br />

The four main train stations (“pályaudvar”)<br />

are Nyugati (Map D-E3); Keleti (Map G4); Déli<br />

(Map A4), and Kelenföldi (Off Map). All are<br />

accessible by metro. Contact MÁV Hungarian<br />

Railways Information for foreign and domestic<br />

timetables. T: (+36 1) 444 4499 or (+36 40) 49<br />

4949, www.mav-start.hu<br />

TAXIS<br />

Budapest taxis are famous for taking people<br />

for a ride in more ways than one. Always insist<br />

on using one of the companies listed below.<br />

If you must hail a taxi, identify a reputable<br />

taxi company by the car’s lights, signage, and<br />

drivers’ identification, and ask for a price estimate<br />

before entering the cab. All legitimate<br />

Budapest taxi rates are are now standardized<br />

for every taxi company.<br />

6x6: (+36 1) 666 6666, www.6x6taxi.hu (lights<br />

on taxi roofs are shaped like gambling dice);<br />

Budapest Taxi: (+36 1) 777 7777, www.budapesttaxi.hu;<br />

City Taxi: (+36 1) 211 1111, www.citytaxi.hu;<br />

Fő Taxi: (+36 1) 222 2222, www.fotaxi.hu;<br />

Max Taxi: (+36 1) 222 2233, www.maxtaxi.hu;<br />

Taxi 4: (+36 1) 444 4444, www.taxi4.hu;<br />

Tele 5 Taxi: (+36 1) 555 5555, www.taxi5.hu<br />

RENTAL CARS<br />

Europcar: With a simple booking system and a<br />

great selection of vehicles, Europcar is the perfect<br />

choice for your Budapest Airport Terminal<br />

2b car rental. We have hourly, daily, short term,<br />

weekly, monthly and long term deals available<br />

in this location. T: (+36 1) 421 8370 www.<br />

europcar.com/location/hungary/budapest/<br />

budapest-airport-terminal-2B<br />

Fox Autorent: A dependable and reliable car<br />

rental company that usually offers specials.<br />

Service includes unlimited mileage, AC, insurance,<br />

and airport and home delivery. T: (+36 1)<br />

382 9000, www.fox-autorent.com<br />

Hertz Rent-A-Car: International Reservation<br />

Center Open Mon-Fri 8am-5pm. Vecsés, Hertz<br />

u. 2. T: (+36 1) 296 0999 or 296 0991; Budapest<br />

Airport Terminal 2B Open daily 8am to 10pm.<br />

T: (+36 1) 296 7171; www.hertz.hu<br />

Sixt Hungary: Operating out of a facility in<br />

the central buildin of Budapest Airport, the<br />

SkyCourt, this car rental agency offers tailormade<br />

deals for its customers. Open Mon-Fri<br />

7am-7pm and Sat-Sun 8am-6pm. T: (+36 1) 451<br />

4227, www.sixt.hu<br />

bicycle rentalS<br />

Ask your hotel concierge for information<br />

about bike rental service to deliver bicycles<br />

directly to your hotel.<br />

Public bikes:<br />

There are green Bubi bikes at 112 stations<br />

city-wide. They are pretty heavy but the first<br />

30 minutes of each use are free of charge.<br />

Passes valid from 24 hours. Registration is<br />

required, see molbubi.bkk.hu<br />

Private bike rentals:<br />

Bike-and-Relax: tours and rental, Andrássy<br />

Street 7, www.bike-and-relax.com Map D4<br />

BikeBase: Podmaniczky utca 19. (near Nyugati<br />

station), www.bikebase.hu Map D3<br />

HiBike: Apáczai Csere János u. 3, www.<br />

hi-bike.hu Map D5<br />

BOAT SERVICES<br />

Several small public transport boats are going<br />

up and down the river during day light hours,<br />

docking at stations in Pest and Buda alternately<br />

(see Map). The time schedule (www.bkk.hu/<br />

en/timetables and click the boat services icon)<br />

is subject to change depending on weather<br />

and water level conditions.<br />

AIRPORT Transportation<br />

The Budapest Airport has two international<br />

terminals, Terminal 2A and 2B. See www.bud.<br />

hu/english for complete airport information.<br />

Airport Minibus Service miniBUD: A shared<br />

ride service that picks passengers up at any<br />

address in Budapest. For travel to hotels or<br />

within the city center, a ride costs HUF 3,900<br />

per person one way, and HUF 6,900 for a return<br />

trip. Arrange your ride in advance. T: (+36<br />

1) 55 00000, www.minibud.hu/en<br />

Airport Taxi Service: Multiple taxi companies<br />

drive Budapest Airport passengers to and from<br />

all city destinations. They offer fixed maximum<br />

prices depending on the distance traveled<br />

from the airport, with HUF 4,500 being an average<br />

price for an airport to city center transfer.<br />

Public Transportation: There is a direct bus<br />

(no.100E) every half hour between the airport<br />

and Deák square. Another bus (200E) takes<br />

you to the ‘blue line’ metro (Kőbánya-Kispest)<br />

that goes into the city.<br />

WHAT MAKES HUNGARY’S TOP<br />

HOSPITALITY PROFESSIONALS DELIGHTED<br />

TO LIVE IN BUDAPEST? CONCIERGE<br />

BALÁZS NAGY OF THE FOUR SEASONS<br />

HOTEL GRESHAM PALACE SHARES A FEW<br />

OF THE FEATURES HE CHERISHES MOST<br />

FROM THROUGHOUT THE HUNGARIAN<br />

METROPOLIS.<br />

… BAR When guests are looking for a nice<br />

place to drink, I always recommend the<br />

St. Andrea Wine & Skybar. St. Andrea is<br />

a popular winery in the countryside, and<br />

recently they have opened a wine and<br />

gourmet rooftop bar in Budapest. The latter<br />

is located in Váci street and offers sweeping<br />

views of the city center, including the Bazilika<br />

and the Budapest Eye. Apart from their own<br />

quality wines, they also offer a wide variety<br />

of excellent cocktails. Guests can also enjoy<br />

snacks with their drinks while marveling at<br />

the panorama view.<br />

… SEASONAL ACTIVITY I am a keen biker<br />

and love to cycle when I have the chance.<br />

One of my favorite routes is in the City Park,<br />

which is beautiful in the autumn. There is<br />

so much to do and see here, I love to visit<br />

the Vajdahunyad castle and especially<br />

its lookout towers. It is one of the lesser<br />

known attractions (the tower is part of the<br />

Agricultural Museum), and offers a unique<br />

view of the city. After the bike ride, make sure<br />

to visit Széchenyi Bath for a relaxing dip in<br />

the hot, curative water.<br />

…MUSEUM Since the Museum of Fine Arts<br />

is closed for renovation, I like to recommend<br />

the Műcsarnok, which is also located next to<br />

Heroes’ Square. They have many interesting<br />

temporary exhibitions, including Sebastião<br />

Salgado’s Genesis exhibit. I will definitely<br />

check this out, I am a big fan of his photos.<br />

Balázs Nagy is a member of<br />

the prestigious Clefs d’Or<br />

organization of professional<br />

concierges, who strive to<br />

accommodate every guest’s<br />

request, as their motto states, “In Service<br />

Through Friendship”.<br />

www.<strong>where</strong>traveler.com 29


MAPS<br />

Széchenyi<br />

tér<br />

Radisson Blu<br />

Béke Hotel<br />

Continental Hotel<br />

Boscolo Budapest<br />

30 WHERE BUDAPEST I OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong>


MAPS<br />

II. János Pál pápa<br />

tér<br />

II. JÁNOS PÁL PÁPA TÉR<br />

FŐVÁM TÉR<br />

Fraser<br />

Residence<br />

SZENT GELLÉRT TÉR<br />

Széll Kálmán<br />

tér<br />

SZÉLL K.<br />

TÉR<br />

Leonardo Hotel<br />

Budapest<br />

MÓRICZ ZSIGMOND KÖRTÉR<br />

Blaha L. tér<br />

Széll Kálmán tér<br />

Astoria<br />

ÚJBUDA-KÖZPONT<br />

Pillangó utca<br />

Népstadion<br />

Keleti pályaudvar<br />

II. János Pál<br />

pápa tér<br />

Vörösmarty<br />

tér Ferenciek tere<br />

Kálvin tér<br />

Rákóczi tér<br />

Corvin<br />

negyed<br />

Fővám tér<br />

Szent Gellért tér<br />

Ferenc körút<br />

Nagyvárad tér<br />

Népliget<br />

Ecseri út<br />

Pöttyös utca<br />

Klinikák<br />

Közvágóhíd<br />

Boráros<br />

tér<br />

Beöthy u.<br />

Kén u.<br />

Móricz Zsigmond körtér<br />

Újbuda-központ<br />

Bikás park<br />

Kelenföld vasútállomás<br />

INDEX OF MAIN STREETS<br />

II. János Pál pápa tér G5<br />

Alkotmány utca C3-D3<br />

Alkotás utca A4-5<br />

Állatkerti körút G1-2<br />

Andrássy út D4-G6<br />

Apáczai Cs. J. utca C5-D5<br />

Arany János utca C4-D4<br />

Attila út<br />

B5-C6<br />

Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út D3-5<br />

Balassi Bálint utca C2-3<br />

Baross tér<br />

G4<br />

Batthyány tér B3<br />

Bécsi kapu tér A3-4<br />

Belgrád rakpart C5-D6<br />

Bem rakpart C2-5<br />

Bem tér<br />

B2<br />

Benczúr utca F3-G2<br />

Blaha Lujza tér F5<br />

Clark Ádám tér C5<br />

Deák Ferenc tér D5<br />

Deák Ferenc utca D5<br />

Dísz tér<br />

B4<br />

Dohány utca E5-G4<br />

Dózsa György út F1-H4<br />

Döbrentei tér C6<br />

Erzsébet körút E4-F5<br />

Erzsébet tér D5<br />

Falk Miksa utca C3-D2<br />

Ferenc körút F7<br />

Ferenciek tere D5<br />

Fő utca B2-5<br />

Fortuna utca B4<br />

Harmincad utca D5<br />

Hess András tér B4<br />

Hősök tere<br />

G2<br />

Horánszky utca F6<br />

Irányi utca<br />

D6<br />

Jókai tér<br />

E4<br />

József Attila utca C5-D5<br />

József körút F5-7<br />

József nádor tér D5<br />

Kálvin tér<br />

E6<br />

Károly körút D5-E5<br />

Károlyi Mihály utca D6<br />

Kazinczy utca E4-5<br />

Kecskeméti utca E6<br />

Király utca D5-F3<br />

Klauzál tér<br />

E4<br />

Kossuth tér<br />

C3<br />

Kossuth Lajos utca D5-E5<br />

Krisztina körút B5-C6<br />

Lehel tér<br />

E1<br />

Liszt Ferenc tér E4<br />

Madách tér D5<br />

Március 15. tér D6<br />

Margit körút B2<br />

Múzeum körút E5-6<br />

Nyugati tér D3<br />

Oktogon<br />

E4<br />

Olof Palme sétány G2-A3<br />

Országház utca A4-B4<br />

Petőfi Sándor utca D5<br />

Rákóczi tér<br />

F6<br />

Rákóczi út E5-G5<br />

Semmelweis utca D5-E5<br />

Szabadság tér D4<br />

Szent Gellért tér D7<br />

Szent Gellért rakpart<br />

C6-D7<br />

Szentháromság tér B4<br />

Szent István körút C2-D3<br />

Széchenyi tér C4<br />

Széll Kálmán tér A3<br />

Táncsics Mihály utca B4<br />

Teréz körút D3-E3<br />

Üllői út<br />

E6-G7<br />

Váci út<br />

D3-E1<br />

Váci utca D5-6<br />

Városligeti fasor F3-G3<br />

Vigadó tér C5-D5<br />

Vörösmarty tér D5<br />

Wesselényi utca E5-F4<br />

Ybl Miklós tér C5<br />

www.<strong>where</strong>traveler.com 31


CENTRAL MARKET<br />

The brightly colored tiled roof of this huge<br />

bazaar shelters a cornucopia of food stands,<br />

offering everything from fresh produce to<br />

pálinka brandy. Downstairs, vendors sell fresh<br />

fish, game, and – very Hungarian – all sorts<br />

of pickled and fermented products. Upstairs,<br />

vendors offer traditional gifts like woodworks,<br />

fine lace, and other souvenirs. Pest IX, Vámház<br />

krt. 1-3. Map E7<br />

Where It’s At Budapest<br />

GREAT SYNAGOGUE<br />

One of Europe’s largest and richly decorated<br />

Jewish temples was built in the 1850s with<br />

a fusion of Moorish and Byzantine styles.<br />

It holds nearly 3,000 worshippers and<br />

represents a typically Hungarian strand of<br />

the Jewish faith, called neologue. It has a<br />

pipe organ (that was played by Franz Liszt<br />

and Emile Saint-Saëns), which is very unusual<br />

for synagogues. The west wing houses a<br />

museum, and there are Holocaust memorials<br />

in the courtyards. Pest VII, Dohány u. 2. Map E5<br />

PARLIAMENT<br />

This neo-gothic palace was built in 1896 for a<br />

country more than twice the current size and<br />

still ruled by counts, lords and princes. It is the<br />

most expensive building ever constructed<br />

in Hungary, decorated with lots of marble,<br />

40 kilograms of gold leaf, as well as statues,<br />

paintings and other works by the best artists<br />

of the day. The central dome houses the<br />

crown of King Stephen. Pest V, Kossuth Lajos tér<br />

1, Map C3, www.parliament.hu<br />

ROYAL PALACE<br />

Several castle incarnations stood on this<br />

oft-besieged hilltop, the seat of kings and<br />

emperors or their representatives. The<br />

current green-domed version is a post-war<br />

reconstruction that was never occupied<br />

by royalty. It houses several museums and<br />

its courtyards are also used for festivals.<br />

Wonderful views over the Danube and Pest.<br />

Buda I, Castle Hill. Map C5<br />

NATIONAL MUSEUM<br />

This imposing neoclassical building houses<br />

an archeological exhibition (prehistory to 800<br />

AD) and an exhibition covering the period<br />

from the founding of Hungary to modern<br />

times (mostly in Hungarian). There is a story<br />

that the 1848 uprising against the autocratic<br />

Habsburg emperor started with the reading<br />

of a poem on the steps of this very building,<br />

but that might be an urban legend. Pest VIII,<br />

Múzeum krt. 14-16. Map E6<br />

HEROES’ SQUARE<br />

Budapest’s premier national ceremony<br />

site is dominated by the Millenary<br />

Monument, with statues of the seven<br />

headmen of the Hungarian tribes<br />

that, according to modern myth,<br />

conquered the Hungarian lands<br />

in 896. They pose at the foot<br />

of a column with Archangel<br />

Gabriel on the top and in<br />

front of a semicircular<br />

colonnade bearing<br />

statues of historical<br />

figures. Pest XIV, Hősök<br />

tere. Map G2<br />

32 WHERE London BUDAPEST I JANUARY I OCTOBER 2013 <strong>2017</strong>


PASSION IS OUR<br />

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OPENING HOURS<br />

(closed on Mondays)<br />

Lunch time: 12pm - 3pm<br />

Dinner time: 6pm - 12am<br />

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WWW.ARANYKAVIAR.HU<br />

RESERVATION:<br />

(+36 1) 201-6737<br />

(+36 30) 685-6000<br />

reservation@aranykaviar.hu


THE MOST POPULAR ALL YOU CAN EAT AND DRINK<br />

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Unlimited consumption with fixed prices,<br />

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Weekdays Lunch (Monday-Friday):<br />

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Weekdays Dinner (Monday-Thursday):<br />

20 EUR (5.999 HUF) /person<br />

Friday Dinner, Weekends and<br />

National Holidays:<br />

22 EUR (6.599 HUF) /person<br />

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