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OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong><br />
WheretraveLer.com<br />
Budapest<br />
®<br />
Recommended by your Concierge<br />
CAFe<br />
BUDAPEST<br />
CONTEMPORARY ART FESTIVAL<br />
WHAT’S LEFT<br />
Remnants of the<br />
communist past<br />
PLUS<br />
WINE & DINE<br />
MAJOR EXHIBITS<br />
MUSIC&DANCE
“Quality gastronomy without compromises.”<br />
1092 Budapest, Ráday utca 4.<br />
Wednesday – Sunday 18:30 - 23:00<br />
+36 1 219 0696<br />
www.costes.hu<br />
1051 Budapest, Vigyázó Ferenc utca 5.<br />
Monday – Sunday 6:30-23:00<br />
+36 1 219 0696<br />
www.costesdowntown.hu
Széchenyi<br />
tér<br />
Radisson Blu<br />
Béke Hotel<br />
Continental Hotel<br />
Boscolo Budapest<br />
Fraser<br />
Residence<br />
II. János Pál<br />
pápa tér<br />
Budapest October <strong>2017</strong><br />
the guide<br />
11 ENTERTAINMENT<br />
Venue & Cinema listings<br />
A jazz concert by<br />
Eszter Váczi & Quartet<br />
14 Art & Museums<br />
Cultural site listings<br />
The chilling story of the Titanic<br />
17 Shops & SERVICES<br />
Boutique & Store listings<br />
The fall/winter collection of<br />
Hungarian designers<br />
19 Wellness<br />
Spa & Salon listings<br />
Places to enjoy colorful autumn walks<br />
21 dining<br />
Restaurant listings<br />
October Fest in Budapest<br />
6<br />
Contents<br />
3 HOT DATES<br />
1956 Commemoration, Design Week, Cafe Budapest Festival,<br />
Pig Sausage Festival, Chimney Cake Festival<br />
4 WHERE NOW<br />
Exhibitions: Fluxus and Friends, photography by Robert Capa, Footwear in Hungary,<br />
Footwear Adventures, Highlights of Hungarian Art – Events: Art Market – Modern<br />
Circus: Recirquel – Modern Dance: Huang Yi and Kuka – Concerts: Budapest Festival<br />
Orchestra in the Liszt Academy, classical and church music in the Matthias Church<br />
and the Basilica – Opera: Figaro 2.0 – Dance: traditional folk<br />
Feature<br />
7 WHAT’S LEFT<br />
Remnants of the communist past.<br />
21<br />
28 ESSENTIALS<br />
Transportation & Embassy listings<br />
ALSO inside<br />
2 Editor’s Letter<br />
29 MY FAVORITE BUDAPEST…<br />
32 <strong>where</strong> it’s at<br />
on the cover<br />
Dancers on the walls of<br />
skyscrapers, on the glass<br />
windows of office buildings,<br />
and over depths. BANDALOOP<br />
re-imagines dance. Their<br />
performance on Oct. 20, 5pm at<br />
Kálvin Square is part of the CAFé<br />
Budapest Fest (see Hot Dates, p. 3).<br />
Photo: Corey Rich<br />
mapS<br />
pages 30-31<br />
Central Budapest<br />
and beyond<br />
www.<strong>where</strong>traveler.com 1
WELCOME | Editor’s Letter<br />
October Blues<br />
The storks have left for warmer<br />
regions, days are getting shorter, and<br />
leaves have started falling. But no<br />
need for the October blues, there<br />
are still lots of enjoyable events,<br />
some still al fresco (the Chimney<br />
Cake Festival, the Pálinka & Sausage<br />
Festival, and the Oktoberfest),<br />
others indoors (Cafe Budapest Fest,<br />
Design Week, the Art Market). Plus there is the usual selection of firstrate<br />
concerts, performances and exhibitions in Budapest’s beautiful old and modern theaters<br />
and museums. Autumn also means new fall fashion by Hungarian designers, and the perfect weather for<br />
a walk among the leaves of red and gold. On the 23rd of this month, Hungary commemorates its uprising<br />
against Soviet-communism in 1956. In our article on page seven, we give you an overview of monuments<br />
and other edifices referring to those turbulent days.<br />
HENK HIRS<br />
Editor in Chief<br />
Where Budapest<br />
Your traveling companion since 1936®<br />
<strong>where</strong>®<br />
magazine<br />
publisher<br />
András Wiszkidenszky<br />
CREATIVE<br />
Editor in chief<br />
Henk Hirs<br />
Art Director<br />
Balázs Milléte<br />
DEPUTY Editor<br />
Nóra Somogyi<br />
Contributing writer<br />
Runa Hellinga<br />
advertising<br />
SALES & office manager<br />
Viktória Novák<br />
UG | MVP<br />
Chairman<br />
William S. Morris III<br />
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William S. Morris IV<br />
EXECUTIVE<br />
President<br />
Donna W. Kessler<br />
vice president<br />
Angela E. Allen<br />
MANAGING director EUROPE<br />
Chris Manning<br />
Creative<br />
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Haines Wilkerson<br />
design Director<br />
Jane Frey<br />
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Beverly Mandelblatt<br />
CHIEF TRAVEL EDITOR<br />
Geoff Kohl<br />
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Where BUDAPEST<br />
Margit Krt. 1. 1027 Budapest<br />
Phone/Fax: (+36 1) 781 9483<br />
E-mail: <strong>where</strong>@unitedguides.hu<br />
ISSN 1217-5714<br />
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MAGYAR SZÁLLODAPORTÁSOK<br />
„ARANYKULCS” EGYESÜLETE MEMBERS OF<br />
THE U.I.C.H. LES CLEFS D‘OR ORGANISATION<br />
<strong>where</strong>traveler.com<br />
2 WHERE London BUDAPEST I JANUARY I OCTOBER 2013 <strong>2017</strong>
HOT DATES | OCTOBER<br />
Monday<br />
23<br />
FRIDAY-SUNDAY<br />
6-15<br />
DESIGN WEE!K<br />
↔ Ten days of<br />
exhibitions, conferences,<br />
workshop tours and shows at more than 120 locations all over town on<br />
modern design – from industrial and tech design to fashion, jewellery,<br />
and food. There are both Hungarian and interantional designers, guest<br />
of honor this year is Denmark. www.designweek.hu<br />
FRIDAY-SUNDAY<br />
6-22<br />
CAFe BUDAPESTFEST<br />
→ This two-week long autumn<br />
Contemporary Art Festival offers<br />
dozens of performances, shows and<br />
musical programs, - Hungarian and<br />
international - in all sorts of categories.<br />
www. cafebudapestfest.hu<br />
photO: CENTER right — Tamás Gacs<br />
1956 COMMEMORATION<br />
▲ On this national holiday, the 1956 uprising<br />
against hard-line communist rule and Soviet<br />
occupation will be commemorated at<br />
various locations. The spontaneous uprising<br />
started on the 23rd of October and after<br />
some initial fighting the Soviet-backed<br />
regime was toppled. Reform-communist<br />
Imre Nagy was chosen head of a new,<br />
broad government, but when he declared<br />
that Hungary would leave the Moscowcontrolled<br />
Warsaw Pact, Soviet tanks rolled<br />
back into Budapest on November 4 and<br />
crushed all resistance, leaving hundreds of<br />
people dead. See also our article on page 7.<br />
FRIDAY-SUNDAY<br />
13-15<br />
PIG SAUSAGE<br />
FESTIVAL<br />
↔ The Pig Slaughtering and<br />
Sausage Festival is about the<br />
traditional way of preparing<br />
pig meat. It offers family<br />
programs, folklore shows, pig slaughtering and a<br />
giant sausage fare. Hungarian Railway Museum – Listing<br />
p.15, www.disznotoroskolbaszfesztival.hu<br />
FRIDAY-SUNDAY<br />
13-15<br />
CHIMNEY CAKE FESTIVAL<br />
▼ The sweet pastry kürtőskalács<br />
(Chimney Cake) – sweet dough with sugar<br />
spun around a cone-shaped spit – takes center stage. Gesztényes kert,<br />
Buda XII, Jagelló út, Off Map (A6), www.kurtoskalacsfesztival.hu<br />
www.<strong>where</strong>traveler.com 3
OCTOBER<br />
WHERE NOW<br />
The month’s top entertainment, exhibits, attractions, and more<br />
MODERN DANCE<br />
HUANG YI AND KUKA<br />
● Trafó is the main venue for modern theater, with a program<br />
full of thought-provoking performances. Taiwanese dancer,<br />
choreographer, inventor, and videographer Huang Yi’s pioneering<br />
work is steeped in his fascination with the partnership between<br />
humans and robots. He interweaves continuous movement with<br />
mechanical and multimedia elements to create a form of dance<br />
which corresponds with the flow of data, effectively making the<br />
performer a dancing instrument. According to The New York<br />
Times, it is “More than just an amusing exercise in blending dance<br />
and technology.” Oct 5 and 6, 8pm, Trafó – Listing p.12, www.trafo.hu<br />
4 WHERE London BUDAPEST I JANUARY I OCTOBER 2013 <strong>2017</strong>
ART MARKET<br />
INSPIRING GATHERING<br />
↔ You can mingle and browse for four days<br />
at the yearly Budapest Art Market, located<br />
in a huge former industrial space in the<br />
center of Buda. The market allows galleries<br />
and exhibitors from Hungary and over 35<br />
other countries, many of them from Central<br />
and Eastern Europe, to showcase their latest<br />
collections and introduce the fresh faces of<br />
the contemporary art scene. Last year, this<br />
attracted over 30,000 international visitors.<br />
Entry is free. October 12-15, Millenáris – Listing<br />
p.11, www.artmarketbudapest.hu<br />
EXHIBIT<br />
FLUXUS AND FRIENDS<br />
→ Fluxus was one of the 20th century’s most<br />
elemental movements, based on a spirit of<br />
rebellion against the commercial art market,<br />
elitism, and the conventions of both art and<br />
society but also eluding rigid definitions. The<br />
Fluxus Manifest was rebellious and as such<br />
can be interpreted as a continuation of the<br />
movements of Dada, surrealism, action art, and<br />
the ephemeral art of the 1960s. Selected from<br />
the collection of Maria and Walter Schnepel’s<br />
Cultural Foundation, the hundreds of works by<br />
the most famous international and Hungarian<br />
Fluxus artists represent a broad palette of the<br />
movement. Ludwig Museum – Listing p.14, www.<br />
ludwigmuseum.hu<br />
EXHIBIT<br />
OPERA<br />
EXHIBITS<br />
EXPERIMENTAL SHOES<br />
The museum has selected various<br />
FIGARO 2.0<br />
The splendid Opera House on Andrassy<br />
MODERN PHOTOGRAPHY<br />
Budapest has two museums for<br />
Hungarian and international artists<br />
Boulevard is closed for renovations, so<br />
photography, the Capa Center and<br />
and designers with their own view<br />
the Erkel theater is <strong>where</strong> operas are<br />
the Mai Manó Museum, both located<br />
on shoes and shoe design, Is it a shoe<br />
being performed right now. “Figaro<br />
on the same street. The Capa Center<br />
photo: top right — László Mészáros<br />
when you can actually walk on it or is it<br />
a shoe when your foot fits in it? Do we<br />
still need leather as material? Can we<br />
print our shoes five years from<br />
now? This show presents<br />
work that makes you<br />
look twice. Till Oct<br />
22, Műcsarnok<br />
– Listing<br />
p.14, www.<br />
mucsarnok.hu<br />
2.0” is a modern version of the comedic<br />
opera by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.<br />
The music and the story are Mozart’s,<br />
but the setting is in the modernday<br />
world. In Hungarian<br />
with English surtitles.<br />
Oct 1, 2, 8-13, 11am<br />
or 4pm, Erkel<br />
Theater –<br />
Listing p.12,<br />
www.opera.hu<br />
is named after the most famous<br />
Hungarian photographer of all time,<br />
Robert Capa. It is currently showcasing<br />
a selection of his oeuvre. The Mai<br />
Manó, which was once the home and<br />
studio of the famous photographer<br />
of the Habsburg court with that<br />
name, has several smaller temporary<br />
exhibitions and a wonderful bookshop<br />
on photography. www.capacenter.hu,<br />
www.maimano.hu, Listing p. 14<br />
www.<strong>where</strong>traveler.com 5
WHERE NOW<br />
CIRCUS<br />
MODERN MAGIC<br />
→ Acclaimed Hungarian<br />
modern circus “Recirquel”<br />
performs two shows this<br />
month, full of their magical<br />
acrobatics, enchanting play<br />
with light and color, and<br />
spectacular effects. “Non Solus”<br />
is a modern and sensual ballet<br />
by two men (Oct 28), while<br />
“Paris de Nuit” takes you back<br />
to the nightlife scenes of the<br />
city of light that was Paris in the<br />
1930s (Oct 29). 7pm, Palace of<br />
Arts – Listing p.11, www.mupa.hu<br />
CONCERTS<br />
LISZT ACADEMY<br />
↔ The Budapest Festival<br />
Orchestra iwill give two<br />
concerts in the Grand<br />
Hall of the wonderful<br />
Art Nouveau music<br />
academy. They will<br />
play music by Mozart<br />
and Haydn, conductor<br />
is Gábor Takács-Nagy,<br />
and Piotr Anderszewski<br />
(photo) plays the piano.<br />
Oct 28, 7:45 pm and Oct 29,<br />
3:30 pm, Liszt Academy – Listing<br />
p.11, www.zeneakademia.hu<br />
EXHIBITION<br />
TUMULTUOUS TIMES<br />
▲ The Hungarian National Gallery in<br />
the Buda Palace is the place to go if<br />
you’re interested in paintings by 18th,<br />
19th and 20th century Hungarian artists.<br />
There are many works by internationally<br />
known Hungarian painters, such as<br />
impressionist Rippl-Rónai, expressionist<br />
Tivadar Csontváry (“a genius” according<br />
to Picasso), and avant-garde artist from<br />
the interwar period Béla Uitz. Mihály<br />
Munkácsy is a 19th century genrepainter<br />
who is less known abroad.<br />
Hungarian National Gallery – Listing<br />
p.14, www.mng.hu<br />
CONCERTS<br />
MATTHIAS CHURCH<br />
The beautiful Matthias Church<br />
on Castle Hill is also a venue for<br />
concerts by various ensembles,<br />
from well-known Hungarian<br />
choirs to the Hungarian Virtuosi<br />
Chamber Orchestra and the Duna<br />
String Orchestra. They perform<br />
classical works in the breathtaking<br />
surroundings of the splendid<br />
church <strong>where</strong> King Matthias was<br />
married and emperor FranzJospeh<br />
and empress Elisabteh (Sissi)<br />
were crowned king and queen<br />
of Hungary. Oct 7 and 14, 8pm,<br />
Matthias Church – Listing p.11,<br />
www.eng.concertbudapest.com<br />
EXHIBITION<br />
FOOTWEAR ADVENTURES<br />
This exhibition explores the rich<br />
variety of styles of shoes and other<br />
footwear from Hungary and its<br />
neighboring countries (also called<br />
The Carpathian Basin) in the past<br />
two hundred years. All artifacts<br />
selected for this exhibition are<br />
either home-made, or were crafted<br />
by cobblers or boot makers.<br />
Ethnography Museum – Listing p.14,<br />
www.neprajz.hu<br />
CONCERTS<br />
HOLY MUSIC<br />
St. Stephen’s Basilica also has<br />
impressive acoustics and a<br />
world-famous historic pipe organ.<br />
It organizes regular Cathedral<br />
Organ Concerts on Mondays at<br />
5 pm and on Fridays at 7 pm.<br />
These concerts feature singers<br />
and musicians who will present<br />
famous organ works and church<br />
arias. On Friday Oct 6, there will be<br />
a special performance of Mozart’s<br />
Requiem while on Monday, Oct<br />
13, Verdi’s Requiem will be<br />
played. Listing<br />
p.12, www.<br />
organconcert.hu<br />
SHOWS<br />
FOLK DANCES<br />
The traditional Hungarian folk<br />
music and authentic dances that<br />
inspired classical composers such<br />
as Franz Liszt, Johannes Brahms,<br />
Zoltán Kodály, and Béla Bartók<br />
are performed by the Rajkó Folk<br />
Ensemble and Orchestra, the<br />
Danube Folk Ensemble, and the<br />
Hungarian State Folk Ensemble.<br />
There are regular shows at 8pm<br />
in the Danube Palace in Pest.<br />
Each of these concert consists<br />
of two 40-45 minute acts with<br />
an intermission in between.<br />
Danube Palace – Listing p.12,<br />
www.budapestfolk.com<br />
photo: top LEFT — Eszter Gordon, center left — MG de Saint Venant<br />
6 WHERE London BUDAPEST I JANUARY I OCTOBER 2013 <strong>2017</strong>
WHAT’S LEFT<br />
REMNANTS OF THE COMMUNIST PAST / BY HENK HIRS<br />
There isn’t really much left in Budapest that is connected to the communist past, at least not in physical or<br />
tangible terms. Most red stars and proletarian statues have long since been removed, street names have been<br />
changed, and the dilapidated and somber pre-1989 streetscape has been replaced by a totally renovated, bright<br />
and lively European city, at least in the center. But there are some places <strong>where</strong> the past is still palpable.<br />
STATUE PARK<br />
Some of the communist era statues that were<br />
removed after 1990 are located in the Memento<br />
Park on the outskirts of Buda. A few are very oldfashioned<br />
“proletarian” but others remarkably<br />
modern and vivid. You’ll also see Stalin’s foot,<br />
the only surviving part of the giant statue near<br />
Heroes’ Square that was toppled during the 1956<br />
uprising. Memento Park – Listing page 15.<br />
www.<strong>where</strong>traveler.com 7
3<br />
1<br />
1<br />
BAMBI ESZPRESSZÓ<br />
Both the exterior and interior of this café and terrace have hardly changed<br />
since it opened its doors 50 years ago. It is still a very popular place, possibly<br />
because it reminds Hungarians of the positive aspects of the decades of<br />
goulash-communism (1960-1989), when Hungary was known as “the happiest<br />
barracks” of the Eastern Block. The regime placated the population by<br />
allowing small freedoms and providing for basic needs such as jobs for<br />
everyone, pensions, education and basic consumer goods (payed for by<br />
loans from the West). Buda II, Frankel Leó utca 2/4, Map B2.<br />
2 1956 MONUMENTS<br />
A big monument on Dózsa György street (photo), on the<br />
place <strong>where</strong> the Stalin statue used to be, commemorates<br />
the failed 1956 uprising against hard-line communism and<br />
Soviet occupation Near Parliament, on Martyrs Square, is<br />
a statue of the leader of the uprising, reform-communist<br />
Imre Nagy, who was hanged after a staged trial. There are<br />
other monuments, small and big, spread all over town.<br />
Dózsa György út, Map G3 and Vértanúk tere, Map C3.<br />
2<br />
8 WHERE London BUDAPEST I JANUARY I OCTOBER 2013 <strong>2017</strong>
4<br />
3 SOVIET MONUMENT<br />
4<br />
It commemorates the victory of the Red Army in 1945. This was a “liberation”<br />
for some, first and foremost Jewish Hungarians in the ghetto, but a humiliating<br />
defeat for most others as Hungary had been a staunch ally of Hitler’s<br />
Germany. The pillaging and raping by Soviet soldiers didn’t help, either, nor<br />
did the fact that the liberators decided to stay. In a 1991 agreement with<br />
Russia, it is stipulated that this Soviet monument cannot be demolished, but it<br />
is no accident that it is now squeezed in between the US embassy and a statue<br />
of US-president Ronald Reagan. Szabadság (Freedom) Square, Map D4.<br />
HOUSE OF TERROR<br />
This building on Andrássy Boulevard first housed the<br />
headquarters of the fascist Arrow Cross Party (until 1945)<br />
and was then seamlessly taken over, including staff, torture<br />
chambers and gallows, by the communist secret police.<br />
The exhibition deals mostly with the communist crimes of<br />
the Stalinist era, roughly from 1948 till 1960. You do really<br />
need the audio guide (English and other languages) to be<br />
able to follow. House of Terror Museum – Listing p.16.<br />
www.<strong>where</strong>traveler.com 9
THE GUIDE<br />
COFFEE HOUSE CHARM<br />
● Budapest has a tradition of grand old coffee houses (kávéház) dating back to the late 1800s and<br />
early 1900s. These were places <strong>where</strong> gentry and bourgeois rubbed shoulders with artists, writers and<br />
newspaper journalists (some of whom wrote their books and articles there). The communists came to see<br />
the places as dens of latent dissent, so most were closed. But luckily, today, there are hundreds again, from<br />
cozy neighborhood hang-outs and comfy modern chains to beautifully restored old-world grand cafés<br />
like August (pictured), the Bedö House, Centrál Kávéház, Gerbeaud, New York, and the Opera Café.<br />
See our Listings on p. 22.<br />
10 WHERE London BUDAPEST I JANUARY I OCTOBER 2013 <strong>2017</strong>
ENTERTAINMENT<br />
Star<br />
Screening<br />
Live from the MET: Norma<br />
The Uránia Film Theater is a<br />
wonderful cinema in Moorish Art<br />
Nouveau style that also offers live<br />
HD broadcasts of major international<br />
operas and theaters in global cities (New<br />
York, London, Paris, St. Petersburg),<br />
documentaries from international<br />
museums (Van Gogh, Tate, Rijksmuseum),<br />
and screenings of famous pop concerts<br />
of the past 50 years. One of this month’s<br />
highlights is the opera “Norma” by<br />
Vincenzo Bellini from the MET in New York.<br />
Oct 7 and 29, Uránia Film Theater – Pest VIII,<br />
Rákóczi út 21., www.urania-nf.hu Map E5<br />
Performance Venues<br />
A38 SHIP Rock the boat nightly at one of Budapest’s<br />
top music and dance venues, docked on<br />
the Danube. Buda XI, moored south of Petőfi<br />
Bridge. T: (+36 1) 464 3940, www.a38.hu Map E8<br />
artus Avant-garde theater and dance performances<br />
by the Gábor Goda Company, along<br />
with art exhibitions and concerts. Buda XI, Sztregova<br />
u. 7. T: (+36 30) 820 3865, www.artus.hu<br />
átrium THEATER A cultural presentation space<br />
offering English-language theater performances,<br />
dance shows, live concerts. Buda II, Margit<br />
krt. 55. T: (+36 1) 317 9338, www.atriumfilmszinhaz.hu<br />
Map A3<br />
BUDAPEST CONGRESS center Extensive arena<br />
welcoming crowd-drawing headliners. Buda XII,<br />
Jagelló út 1-3. T: (+36 1) 372 5400, www.bcc.hu<br />
budapest music center This multifunctional<br />
facility encompasses a comprehensive music<br />
library, a record label, and multiple venues that<br />
showcase established and promising muscians.<br />
Pest IX, Mátyás u. 8. T: (+36 1) 216 7894, www.<br />
bmc.hu Map E7<br />
Cotton club Classy 1920s-style jazz and lounge<br />
club. Entertainment venues and special events<br />
include live music and tasty cocktails. Pest VI,<br />
Jókai u. 26. T: (+36 30) 184 1128 , www.cottonhousebudapest.hu<br />
Map E3<br />
FONÓ MUSIC HALL World music and jazz performed<br />
on several stages. Closed on Sundays.<br />
Buda XI, Sztregova u. 3. T: (+36 1) 206 5300,<br />
www.fono.hu<br />
JAM PUB A popular joint in the basement of<br />
Mammut II shopping center, hosting concerts<br />
in every genre. Closed on Sundays. Buda II,<br />
Lövőház u. 1-3. T: (+36 1) 345 8301, Map A3<br />
HUNGEXPO One-stop shop for events, conferences,<br />
conventions and exhibitions. Pest X,<br />
Albertirsai út 10. T: (+36 1) 263 6000, www.<br />
hungexpo.hu<br />
klebelsberg cultural center Tucked into<br />
the serene Buda hills, his cultural locale hosts<br />
modern and folk dancing, classical theater and<br />
contemporary arts. Buda II, Templom u. 2-10. T:<br />
(+36 1) 392 0860, www.kulturkuria.hu<br />
liszt academy of music Top-notch music<br />
performances at this Art Nouveau music university<br />
founded by its namesake composer. It<br />
has a splendid main concert hall and a smaller<br />
hall for chamber music performances. Guided<br />
tours every day at 1:30pm. Pest VI, Liszt Ferenc<br />
tér 8. T: (+36 1) 462 4600, www.lisztacademy.hu<br />
Map E4<br />
madách theater A grand modern playhouse<br />
featuring cool wall paintings and elaborate<br />
productions of hit musicals like Cats and Mary<br />
Poppins. English subtitles provided for some<br />
shows. Pest VII, Erzsébet krt. 29-33. T: (+36 1) 478<br />
2041, www.madachszinhaz.hu Map F4<br />
Margaret island open-air stage This<br />
beautiful amphitheater is surrounded by the<br />
parkland of the biggest island in the Danube,<br />
making it a splendid summertime venue.<br />
Margaret Island, under the Water Tower (accessible<br />
by bus 26 from Nyugati Square). www.<br />
szabadter.hu Map D0<br />
Matthias church Located on Castle Hill near<br />
the Fisherman’s Bastion, this impressive and<br />
beautifully restored church is a must-see sight<br />
for tourists with its colorful ceramic tiled roof,<br />
and richly decorated interior. It also organizes<br />
regular concerts of classical and church music.<br />
Buda I, Szentháromság tér. www.matyas-templom.hu<br />
Map B4<br />
MILLENÁRIS Multiple venues in Buda’s Millenáris<br />
Park offer frequent exhibitions, concerts, fairs,<br />
and special events. Buda II, Kis Rókus u. 16-20. T:<br />
(+36 1) 336 4000, www.millenaris.hu Map A2<br />
mom cultural center A modern venue by<br />
a Buda park offering concert, theater and<br />
dance performances, along with exhibits and<br />
open-air cinema (during summer). Adjacent<br />
is a big indoor sports hall <strong>where</strong> concerts are<br />
being staged as well. Buda XII, Csörsz u. 14-18.<br />
T: (+36 1) 319 9854, www.momkult.hu and www.<br />
momsport.hu Map A6<br />
ÓBUDAI TÁRSASKÖR Opulent performance hall<br />
that hosts classical and ragtime concerts. Buda<br />
III, Kiskorona u. 7. T: (+36 1) 250 0288, www.<br />
obudaitarsaskor.hu<br />
ORFEUM This underground evening cabaret<br />
serves up tasty cocktails and classy entertainment,<br />
from swing and jazz shows to Frank<br />
Sinatra tributes and vaudeville shows. Closed<br />
on Mondays. Pest VII, Erzsébet krt. 43-49. T: (+36<br />
1) 336 00 56, www.orfeumclub.hu Map F4<br />
PALACE OF ARTS A huge performance center<br />
with a very impressive monthly line-up featuring<br />
the best of the best Hungarian and international<br />
artists. Pest IX, Komor Marcell u. 1, at<br />
the tram 2 Millenniumi Kulturális Központ stop.<br />
T: (+36 1) 555 3000, www.mupa.hu Map F9<br />
PAPP LÁSZLÓ SPORTARÉNA Hungary’s largest<br />
indoor event venue, hosting major international<br />
touring concerts and Hungarian musical<br />
legends. Pest XIV, Stéfania út 2, at the M2 metro<br />
Stadionok stop. T: (+36 1) 422 2600, www.<br />
budapestarena.hu<br />
Pesti vIgadó Restored to its former glory that<br />
featured many famous artists like Ferenc Liszt<br />
or Claude Debussy, the building now houses<br />
exhibits and all kinds of shows, concerts and<br />
performances (mostly in Hungarian). Pest V,<br />
Vigadó tér 2. www.vigado.hu Map C5<br />
PÓTKULCS Relaxed, artsy venue with tunes in<br />
many genres, including swing and jazz. Pest<br />
VI, Csengery u. 65/B. T: (+36 1) 269 1050, www.<br />
potkulcs.hu Map E3<br />
www.<strong>where</strong>traveler.com 11
ENTERTAINMENT<br />
casual clothing is the norm. Pest IX, Liliom u. 41.<br />
T: (+36 1) 215 1600, www.trafo.hu Map F7<br />
VÍGSZÍNHÁZ Late-19th-century theatre building<br />
on the city’s grand boulevard, hosting comedy<br />
shows and an occasional English concert or<br />
performance. Pest XIII, Szent István krt. 14. T:<br />
(+36 1) 329 2340, www.vigszinhaz.hu Map D2<br />
Hungarian Jazz<br />
Eszter Váczi & Quartet is one of Hungary’s most popular jazz bands. Although the<br />
lyrics are mainly Hungarian, their cool yet elegant music is so international that the<br />
melody will help the listener figure it out. The success of the five-piece combo lies for<br />
a large part in Eszter’s fabulous velvet voice. If you book a table, you can have a dinner<br />
and a drink while listening to the concert in BMC’s Opus Jazz Club. Oct 12, 9 pm, BMC –<br />
Listing p.11, www.bmc.hu<br />
PUSKÁS FERENC STADION Used for Hungarian<br />
soccer matches, this giant outdoor arena<br />
occasionally hosts large-scale concerts by<br />
the world’s most popular superstars. Pest XIV,<br />
Istvánmezei út 3-5, at the M2 Stadionok metro<br />
stop. www.puskasferencstadion.com<br />
RAM COLOSSEUM An entertainment venue with<br />
popular Hungarian and international modern<br />
folk dance and music shows, creating real<br />
theatrical experiences. Pest XIII, Kárpát u. 23-25.<br />
T: (+36 1) 222 5253, www.ramcolosseum.com or<br />
www.experidance.hu Map D1<br />
royal palace of gödöllő Classical concerts,<br />
historic festivals and palace tours at the former<br />
residence of Empress Elizabeth, located just<br />
outside of Budapest. Gödöllő 2100, Grassalkovich<br />
Palace. T: (+36 28) 410 124, www.<br />
kiralyikastely.hu<br />
st. stephen’s basilica This Neo-Renaissance<br />
church also offers regular organ and classical<br />
music concerts in an ethereal surrounding.<br />
Up-to-date program on the website. Pest V,<br />
Szent István tér 1, T: (+36 20) 823 2095, www.<br />
organconcert.hu Map D4<br />
SYMA SPORT AND EVENT CENTER Adjacent to<br />
the city’s Sportaréna, this venue hosts concerts,<br />
athletic events, and fairs. Pest XIV, Dózsa<br />
György út 1. T: (+36 1) 460 1100, www.syma.hu<br />
thália theater This playhouse at “Budapest’s<br />
Broadway” sometimes hosts live concerts and<br />
dance performances. Pest VI, Nagymező u. 22-<br />
24. T: (+36 1) 331 0500, www.thalia.hu Map E4<br />
TRAFÓ HOUSE OF CONTEMPORARY ARTS<br />
The theatre is pretty small and the seats are<br />
not very comfortable, but this is Budapest’s<br />
centerpoint of contemporary dance, theatre<br />
and modern circus performances, <strong>where</strong> very<br />
Opera & Operetta<br />
ERKEL THEATER This modern musical theater<br />
is part of the State Opera and strives to make<br />
opera and ballet performances accessible for a<br />
wider public. Pest VIII, II. János Pál pápa tér 30,<br />
T: (+36 1) 814 7100, www.opera.hu Map G5<br />
HUNGARIAN STATE OPERA HOUSE This magnificent<br />
neo-Renaissance building offers a variety<br />
of classical and modern operas and ballets.<br />
You can always pop in into the main hall or the<br />
Opera coffee house to have a look at the interior.<br />
On weekdays, tours are being organised in<br />
the afternoon for those who just want a peak<br />
at the opulent interior. Pest VI, Andrássy út 22,<br />
T: (+36 1) 814 7100, www.opera.hu Map E4<br />
OPERETTA AND MUSICAL THEATER Modernized<br />
classic performances sung in Hungarian,<br />
but subtitled in either English or German. Pest<br />
VI, Nagymező u. 17. T: (+36 1) 312 4866, www.<br />
operettszinhaz.hu Map E4<br />
Dance<br />
budai vigado Cultural center, also known as<br />
the Hungarian Heritage House, which stages<br />
mostly Hungarian folk dance and music performances.<br />
Buda I, Corvin tér 8. T: (+36 1) 225 6049,<br />
www.heritagehouse.hu Map B4<br />
danube palace Classical concerts and performances<br />
by the Hungarian State Folk Ensemble<br />
and other companies. T: (+36 1) 317 2754. Pest V,<br />
Zrínyi u. 5. www.dunapalota.hu Map D4<br />
Jazz Clubs<br />
budapest jazz club Almost daily groovin’<br />
sessions by classical jazz cats and modern<br />
performers. Pest XIII, Hollán Ernő u. 7. T: (+36 70)<br />
413 9837, www.bjc.hu Map D2<br />
benkó dixieland club This longtime jazz<br />
venue hosts live concerts every Wednesday<br />
(6pm-9:30pm) amid a pleasantly old-fashioned<br />
setting. Closed June, July, August. Pest IX,<br />
Török Pál u. 3. T: (+36 1) 218 0116, www.benkodixie.hu<br />
Map E6<br />
COLUMBUS JAZZ PUB Floating musical mother<br />
ship features performances by Hungary’s<br />
greatest jazz musicians. Pest V, Vigadó tér 4<br />
(docked on the Pest riverbank). T: (+36 1) 266<br />
9013, www.columbuspub.hu Map C5<br />
IF KÁVÉZÓ Gifted musicians perform live in a<br />
fashionable but easygoing venue. Pest IX,<br />
Ráday u. 19. T: (+36 1) 299 0694, www.ifkavezo.<br />
hu Map E7<br />
ladó café Enjoy jazz classics performed by<br />
local musicians amid the unique ambience of a<br />
popular theater from the communist era. Pest<br />
VII, Dohány u. 50. T: (+36 70) 350 3929, www.<br />
ladocafe.hu Map F5<br />
opus jazz club Enjoy smooth jazz melodies at<br />
this downtown hotspot for regular live gigs.<br />
12 WHERE BUDAPEST I OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong>
ENTERTAINMENT<br />
ENTERTAINMENT<br />
Closed on Sundays. Pest IX, Mátyás u. 8. T: (+36<br />
1) 216 7894, www.opusjazzclub.hu Map E7<br />
English-language<br />
Cinemas<br />
Some of the movies in the following theaters<br />
are in the original language with Hungarian<br />
subtitles, check out websites.<br />
CORVIN Pest VIII, Corvin köz 1. T: (+36 1) 459 5050,<br />
www.corvin.hu Map F7<br />
cinema city on three locations in town. Arena<br />
plaza Kerepesi út 9. T (+36) 80 800 800, www.<br />
cinemacity.hu Map A3 mom PARK mall: Buda<br />
XII, Alkotás u. 53. T: (+36) 80 800 800, www.<br />
cinemacity.hu WESTEND City Center: Pest VI,<br />
Vácí út 1-3. T: (+36) 80 800 800, www.cinemacity.<br />
hu Map E2<br />
Animal Parks<br />
BUDAPEST ZOO From regal tigers and playful<br />
orangutans to elephants, the diverse collection<br />
of species and habitats of the zoo, as well<br />
as the lush botanical gardens, will please all<br />
animal and nature lovers What is more, they<br />
are housed partly in beautiful Art Nouveau<br />
structures, such as the Elephant House and<br />
the Aquarium. The Zoo also has a wonderful<br />
playground which is always very popular with<br />
children. Pest XIV, Állatkerti krt. 6-12. T: (+36 1)<br />
273 4900, www.zoobudapest.com Map G1<br />
www.<strong>where</strong>traveler.com 13
ART & MUSEUMS<br />
Ship lost<br />
Objects from the Titanic<br />
This traveling exhibition<br />
has hundreds of original<br />
objects – including furniture,<br />
clothes, and jewelry – from the<br />
world-famous cruise ship that was<br />
supposed to be unsinkable. But<br />
still, on its maiden voyage in April<br />
1912, it collided with an iceberg<br />
some<strong>where</strong> in the Atlantic and<br />
went down with most of its 1,500<br />
passengers. It’s a chilling, but<br />
fascinating story that has been<br />
the subject of numerous articles,<br />
books and a major movie. Komplex,<br />
Pest VI, Király utca 26, T: (+36 1) 666<br />
3100, www.titanickiallitas.hu/en<br />
Art Museums<br />
APPLIED ARTS MUSEUM Historic design exhibitions<br />
inside one of Budapest’s Art Nouveau<br />
architectural gems, notable for its colorfully<br />
tiled roof. Open Tue-Sun. Pest IX, Üllői út 33-37.<br />
T: (+36 1) 456 5110, www.imm.hu Map F7<br />
CAPA CENTER Honoring the Hungarian-born<br />
maverick photographer Robert Capa, this center<br />
for photography offers illuminating displays.<br />
Pest VI, Nagymező u. 8. T: (+36 1) 413 1310, Open<br />
Mon-Sun, www.capacenter.hu Map E4<br />
EAST ASIAn ART MUSEUM FERENC HOPP Fascinating<br />
artifacts from throughout the Orient<br />
displayed in a grand mansion. Open Wed-Sun.<br />
Pest VI, Andrássy út 103. Map F3<br />
fine arts museum Closed for renovation till the<br />
end of <strong>2017</strong>. A highlight selection of the Old<br />
Masters, Spanish masterpieces, French Impressionists,<br />
and 19th-century Hungarian works<br />
is on show in the Hungarian National Gallery<br />
in Buda Castle (see listing this page). Pest XIV,<br />
Heroes’ Square. T: (+36 1) 469 7100, www.mfab.<br />
hu Map G2<br />
GYÖRGY RÁTH MUSEUM A massive collection of<br />
Asian art in a stunning 19th-century villa. Open<br />
Wed-Sun. Pest VI, Városligeti fasor 12. T: (+36 1)<br />
342 3916, www.imm.hu Map G3<br />
KISCELLI MUSEUM Paintings, sculptures, drawings,<br />
coins, and medals in a regal estate. Open<br />
Tue-Fri. Buda III, Kiscelli u. 108. T: (+36 1) 250<br />
0304 www.kiscellimuzeum.hu<br />
KOGART HOUSE The museum gives home to<br />
the Gábor Kovács Art Collection, covering<br />
Hungarian art ranging from the beginning of<br />
the 18th until the mid-20th century. Located in<br />
a beautiful villa close to Heroes’ Square. Open<br />
Mon-Fri. Pest VI, Andrássy út 112. T: (+36 1) 354<br />
3820, www.kogart.hu Map F2<br />
LUDWIG MUSEUM A permanent collection and<br />
temporary exhibitions of contemporary works<br />
by Hungarian and international artists (with an<br />
emphasis on Central-European and Russian artists),<br />
located at the Palace of Arts. It is located<br />
at the southern side of Pest. Open Tue-Sun<br />
untill 8pm. Pest IX, Komor Marcell u. 1. T: (+36 1)<br />
555 3444, www.lumu.hu Map F9<br />
MAI MANÓ The Hungarian House of Photography,<br />
showing the best contemporary local and<br />
international snapshots. Open Mon-Fri 2pm-<br />
7pm and Sat-Sun 11am-7pm. Pest VI, Nagymező<br />
u. 20. T: (+36 1) 473 2669, www.maimano.hu<br />
Map E4<br />
MIKSA RÓTH MEMORIAL HOUSE The former<br />
home of this Hungarian stained-glass master,<br />
with some of his furniture and hisworks. The<br />
xhibition is mainly in Hungarian., though. Pest<br />
VII, Nefelejcs u. 26. T: (+36 1) 341 6789 www.<br />
rothmuzeum.hu Map G4<br />
MŰCSARNOK Rotating contemporary exhibitions<br />
of modern art and design in an ornate building.<br />
Open Tue-Sun, closed on Mon and Thurs morning.<br />
Pest XIV, Heroes’ Square. T: (+36 1) 460 7000,<br />
www.mucsarnok.hu Map G2<br />
NATIONAL GALLERY Various permanent exhibitions<br />
of Hungarian fine art since the country’s<br />
foundation, especially paintings from the 18th,<br />
19th and 20th century. They also organize<br />
many illuminating temporary exhibitions. Open<br />
Tue-Sun. Buda I, Royal Palace, Szent György tér<br />
2. T: (+36 1) 201 9082, www.mng.hu Map B5<br />
Specialty Museums<br />
AQUINCUM MUSEUM Ancient ruins from the<br />
2,000-year-old capital of a Roman province.<br />
Outdoor stone remains and a museum with<br />
restored mosaics and wall paintings. Open Tue-<br />
Sun. Buda III, Szentendrei út 135. T: (+36 1) 250<br />
1650, www.aquincum.hu<br />
ARANY SAS PHARMACY MUSEUM Buda’ s oldest<br />
pharmacy, the “Golden Eagle,” is recreated in<br />
the Castle District. Open Tue-Sun. Buda I, Apród<br />
u. 1-3. T: (+36 1) 375-9772, www.semmelweis.<br />
museum.hu Map B5<br />
army headquarter After seven decades, and<br />
many unrealized renovation plans, this former<br />
army headquarter is open to the public again,<br />
hosting various exhibits and cultural events.<br />
Buda I, Dísz tér 17. Map B4<br />
BÉLA BARTÓK MEMORIAL HOUSE The composer’s<br />
home museum, with original furniture<br />
and Bartók’s folk-art collection, photos, and letters.<br />
Open Tue-Sat. Buda II, Csalán út 29. T: (+36<br />
1) 394 2100, www.bartokmuseum.hu<br />
castle museum Permanent exhibition about<br />
the history of Budapest in the fascinating<br />
setting of endless cellars and several floors of<br />
the current palace and its predecessors. Open<br />
Tue-Sun. Buda I, Royal Palace (Wing E). T: (+36 1)<br />
487 8800, www.btm.hu Map B5<br />
ETHNOGRAPHy museum Exhibitions on<br />
Hungarian lifestyles through history, including<br />
clothes and handicrafts, in a beautifull neo-<br />
Renaissance palace that was once the building<br />
of the highest court. Open Tue-Sun. Pest V,<br />
Kossuth Lajos tér 12. T: (+36 1) 473 2400, www.<br />
neprajz.hu Map C3<br />
HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL CENTER Permanent<br />
exhibition on the Hungarian Holocaust and<br />
the way that lead there. Timely and insightful<br />
temporary exhibits on social issues. Pest IX,<br />
Páva u. 39. Open Tue-Sun. T: (+36 1) 455 3333,<br />
www.hdke.hu Map F7<br />
HOSPITAL IN THE ROCK A WWII-era medical<br />
facility, later a secret nuclear bunker, found in<br />
the tunnels and caves beneath Castle Hill. A<br />
fascinating one-hour tour, with a short documentairy<br />
film as introduction and stories about<br />
Hungary’s 20th century history. Open Mon-Sun.<br />
Buda I, Lovas u. 4/C. T: (+36 70) 701 0101, www.<br />
sziklakorhaz.eu Map A4<br />
HOUSE OF TERROR MUSEUM Infamous as the<br />
headquarters for fascists in the 1940s and then<br />
the communist secret service, this building is<br />
now a memorial museum. Open Tue-Sun. Pest<br />
VI, Andrássy út 60. T: (+36 1) 374 2600, www.<br />
terrorhaza.hu Map E3<br />
14 WHERE BUDAPEST I OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong>
ART & MUSEUMS<br />
LISZT FERENC MUSEUM The house <strong>where</strong> the<br />
internationally well-known composer used to<br />
live (1881-1886) when in Budapest is a small<br />
museum with original furniture, musical instruments,<br />
memorabilia, transcripts etc. There is<br />
also a small concert hall, part of the original<br />
Academy of Music, which he founded. Open<br />
Mon-Sat, Buda VI, Vörösmarty u. 35, T: (+36 1) 413<br />
0440 Map E3<br />
NATIONAL MUSEUM In various halls and chambers,<br />
the history of Hungary, from the nation’s<br />
foundation till today., is explained in objects<br />
and text. The exhibit itself is mostly Hungarian),<br />
but there is a one-hour English tour on<br />
Thursdays at 11am (registration required). The<br />
museum also organizes temporary exhibitions,<br />
which are often more accesible for foreign visitors.<br />
Open Tue-Sun. Pest VIII, Múzeum krt. 14-16.<br />
T: (+36 1) 338 2122, www.mnm.hu Map E6<br />
NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM An educational<br />
complex that features an aquarium, a whale<br />
skeleton, fossils, and stuffed animals (mostly<br />
Hungarian only). Open Wed-Sun. Pest VIII,<br />
Ludovika tér 2-6. T: (+36 1) 210 1085, www.<br />
nhmus.hu Map G7<br />
RAILWAY MUSEUM An open-air museum on a<br />
former train-yard with an amazing collection of<br />
vintage engines and other objects. Visitors can<br />
also ride several models of rail vehicles. Easily<br />
reachable from Nyugati and Keleti Stations.<br />
Open Apr-Nov (Mon closed). Pest XIV, Tatai út<br />
95. T: (+36 1) 450 1497, www.vasuttortenetipark.<br />
hu/en<br />
SEMMELWEIS MUSEUM The history of Western<br />
medicine, with special emphasis on Hungary<br />
and the work of Ignác Semmelweis, the Hungarian<br />
doctor who taught his colleagues to ...<br />
wash their hands. Open Tue-Sun, Buda I, Apród<br />
utca 1-3. T: (+ 36 1) 375 3533, www.semmelweis.<br />
museum.hu, Map C5<br />
STATUE PARK Huge statues of Marx, Lenin, and<br />
other communist-era figures. Open daily 10amdusk.<br />
Direct buses leave Deák tér daily from<br />
11am. Buda XXII, Balatoni út/Szabadkai u. T: (+36<br />
1) 424 7500, www.mementopark.hu<br />
SZABÓ MARZIPAN MUSEUM A playful gallery of<br />
all things marzipan, including historical icons<br />
and Disney characters. Open daily. Buda I,<br />
Hess András tér 1-3. T: (+36 1) 669 6861, www.<br />
szabomarcipan.hu Map B4<br />
VARGA IMRE MUSEUM Original statues as well as<br />
some copies by the most successful and internationally<br />
renowned contemporary Hungarian<br />
sculptor. Buda III, Laktanya utca 7, (Óbuda), no<br />
website, Not on map<br />
VÁRKERT BAZAAR At the foot of Buda Castle,<br />
these neo-Renaissance palaces house several<br />
permanent and temporary exhibitions including<br />
the Hungaricon (objects from or by famous<br />
Hungarian personalities), and a wooden<br />
model of Buda. In the gardens are two festival<br />
grounds. Buda I, Miklós Ybl tér. T: (+36 1) 225<br />
0310, www.varkertbazar.hu Map C5<br />
ZWACK UNICUM HERITAGE AND VISITORS CEN-<br />
TER Follow six generations of the Zwack family<br />
and learn about the background of the popular<br />
bittersweet beverage. Open Mon-Fri. Pest IX,<br />
Soroksári út 26. T: (+36 1) 476 2383, www.zwack.<br />
hu Map F8<br />
Art Galleries<br />
ACB GALLERY Leading contemporary Hungarian<br />
artworks. Open Tue-Fri 2pm-6pm. Pest VI,<br />
Király u. 76. T: (+36 1) 413 7608, www.acbgaleria.<br />
hu Map F3<br />
ARi kupsus gallery This unconventional gallery<br />
hosts contemporary shows . Pest VIII, Bródy<br />
Sándor u. 23/B. T: (+36 20) 322 0334, www.<br />
arikupsusgallery.com Map F6<br />
chimera project This art incubator is showcasing<br />
curated, thematic exhibitions about artistic<br />
PÉTER<br />
KORNISS<br />
CONTINUING MEMORIES<br />
and social topics. Open Tue-Fri 3pm-6pm or<br />
upon appointment. Pest VII, Klauzál tér 5. www.<br />
chimera-project.com Map E5<br />
DEÁK ERIKA GALÉRIA Cutting-edge showcase<br />
of young Magyar artists, many in new media.<br />
Open Wed-Fri noon-6pm and Sat 11am-4pm.<br />
Pest VI, Mozsár u. 1. T: (+36 1) 201 3740, www.<br />
deakgaleria.hu Map E4<br />
Design terminál A cutting-edge viewing<br />
space for modern artwork and aesthetic innovation.<br />
Pest V, Erzsébet tér 13. www.designterminal.hu<br />
Map D5<br />
ADVERTISE IN WHERE BUDAPEST MAGAZINE –<br />
HUNGARY'S MOST DIRECT LINK TO THE WORLD!<br />
Call (+36 30) 945 2983 or view<br />
www.unitedguides.hu for more information.<br />
HUNGARIAN NATIONAL GALLERY, BUDAPEST<br />
29 SEPTEMBER <strong>2017</strong> 7 JANUARY 2018<br />
LEAD SPONSOR MAJOR SPONSOR COOPERATIONAL PARTNERS<br />
PÉTER KORNISS: GIRL IN A HEADSCARF, 1975 © VÁRFOK GALLERY, BUDAPEST © PÉTER KORNISS<br />
www.<strong>where</strong>traveler.com 15
ART & MUSEUMS<br />
VIltin Hungarian paintings, sculptures and photographies<br />
are displayed in this contemporary<br />
gallery. Open Tue-Sat. Pest VI, Vasvári Pál utca 1.<br />
T: (+36 1) 787 5866, www.viltin.hu Map E4<br />
VIntage Displaying both contemporary and<br />
modern works by Hungarian artists, Vintage is<br />
a good place to view photography and new<br />
media. Pest V, Magyar u. 26. T: (+36 20) 913 6291,<br />
www.vintage.hu Map E6<br />
VIrág judit This gallery, located in the antiques<br />
street of downtown Pest, presents and sells<br />
Zsolnay ceramics and high quality Hungarian<br />
paintings from the 19th and 20th centuries as<br />
well as organizing regular auctions, along with<br />
all sorts of thematic exhibitions. Pest V, Falk<br />
Miksa u. 30. T: (36 1) 312 2071, www.viragjuditgaleria.hu<br />
Map D2<br />
World Press Photo<br />
The 2016 World Press Photo of the year, the picture of the Turkish man who has just<br />
killed the Russian ambassador in Ankara, takes center stage. It is a highly dramatic<br />
photo that leaves you wondering about right and wrong, just and unjust, and the<br />
frailty of a human’s life. But there are more than 150 other images that were also<br />
selected winners in many categories. Till Oct 23, Ethnography Museum – Listing p.14,<br />
www.worldpressphoto.org<br />
ERNST GALLERY Showcasing venerable Hungarian<br />
and international fine arts, antiques, paintings,<br />
film posters, and more in two locations.<br />
Its aim is to introduce Hungarian painters to<br />
the international context, namely to private<br />
and public collections in Hungary and abroad.<br />
www.ernstgaleria.hu Pest V, Irányi u. 27. T: (+36<br />
1) 266 4016 Map D6; Pest V, Zrínyi u. 14. T: (+36 1)<br />
266 4017 Map D4<br />
FAUR zsófia-ráday galéria One of the first<br />
Hungarian private galleries after the change of<br />
the regime, the gallery showcases Hungarian<br />
contemporary fine art and photography. Open<br />
Mon-Fri noon-6pm. Buda XI, Bartók Bela út 25.<br />
T: (+36 1) 209 3635, www.galeriafaur.hu Map D8<br />
karton A sleek and modern viewing space hosting<br />
regular art exhibitions in varied mediums.<br />
Open Mon-Fri 1pm-6pm. Pest V, Alkotmány u.<br />
18. T: (+36 1) 427 0000, www.karton.hu Map D3<br />
KIESELBACH GALLERY Viewings and auctions of<br />
high-quality classical Hungarian and international<br />
paintings. Open Mon-Sun 10am-6pm.<br />
Pest V, Szt. István krt. 5. T: (+36 1) 269 3148, www.<br />
kieselbach.hu Map D2<br />
KIsterem Representing local artists, Kisterem<br />
hosts exhibitions that explore a wide variety<br />
of art forms, including drawings, sculptures or<br />
multi-textured models made out of everyday<br />
materials. Open Tue-Fri 2pm–6pm. Pest, Képíró<br />
u. 5.T: (+36 1) 267 0522, www.kisterem.hu Map E6<br />
KNOLL GALÉRIA As one of Pest’s first private<br />
galleries after the fall of the Soviet Bloc, this<br />
pioneering institution participated in developing<br />
the independent art scene and cultivating<br />
fresh Hungarian and foreign talent. Open<br />
Tue-Sat. Pest VI, Liszt Ferenc tér 10. T: (+36 1) 267<br />
3842, www.knollgaleria.hu Map E4<br />
KOLLER GALLERY The first privat gallery in<br />
communist Hungary is elegantly situated in<br />
Budapest’s Castle District, It specializes in contemporary<br />
etchings and graphics. Open daily<br />
10am-6pm. Buda I, Táncsics Mihály u. 5. T: (+36<br />
1) 356 9208, www.kollergaleria.hu Map B4<br />
MOLNÁR ANI GALLERY Artists of many generations<br />
and mediums, with a preference for<br />
experimental materials. Intriguing, high-quality<br />
pieces in an intimate space. Open Tue-Fri<br />
noon-6pm. Pest VIII, Bródy Sándor u. 22. T: (+36<br />
1) 327 0095, www.molnaranigaleria.hu Map E6<br />
MORÓ ANTIK Gentlemen’s antique store with a<br />
specialization in old guns, rapiers, and sophisticated<br />
canes. Open Mon-Fri 10am-6pm and Sat<br />
10am-1pm. Pest V, Falk Miksa u. 13. T: (+36 1) 311<br />
0814, www.moroantik.hu Map C3<br />
NAGYHÁZI GALLERY AND AUCTION HOUSE One<br />
of the oldest local antiques shop and auction<br />
house, offering furniture, paintings, lamps and<br />
more. Pest V, Balaton u. 8. T: (+36 1) 475 6000,<br />
www.nagyhazi.hu Map D2<br />
NESSIM GALLERY Sharply focused on Central<br />
European contemporary photographers with<br />
attention-grabbing rotating exhibitions. By appointment<br />
only. Pest VI, Paulay Ede u. 10. T: (+36<br />
30) 593 6091, www.nessim.hu Map D4<br />
VÁRFOK GALLERY One of Buda’s few contemporary<br />
gallerie, showing works by renowned<br />
and up-and-coming Hungarian artists. Open<br />
Tue-Sat 11am-6pm. Buda I, Várfok u. 11. T: (+36 1)<br />
213 5155, www.varfok-galeria.hu Map A3<br />
Szentendre Museums<br />
& Galleries<br />
Anna Margit-ámos imre collection Notable<br />
display of vibrant, surrealist paintings by<br />
this artistic couple. Szentendre 2000, Bogdányi<br />
út 10-12. T: (+36 26) 310 244, www.femuz.hu<br />
bÉLA CZÓBEL MUSEUM SThis small museum is<br />
showcasing wok of one of the most important<br />
modernist painters of Hungary. He lived from<br />
1883 till 1970 and introdcued the post-impressionist<br />
style to the country. Szentendre 2000,<br />
Templom tér 1, T: (+36 20) 779 6657.<br />
barcsay collection Small color compositions<br />
and study drawings in constructivist stylings by<br />
Jenő Barcsay, a Szentendre homesteader. Open<br />
Wed-Sun 10am-6pm. Szentendre 2000, Dumtsa<br />
Jenő u. 10. T: (+36 20) 779 6659, www.pmmi.hu<br />
dobos chocolate museum Sweet exhibit<br />
for famous confectioner József Dobos, who<br />
created his delectable caramel-topped dessert<br />
with chocolate cream layered between sponge<br />
cake. Open Sat-Sun 10am-6pm or weekdays<br />
with prior notice. Szentendre 2000, Bogdányi u.<br />
2. T: (+36 26) 311 660<br />
FERENCZY MUSEUM Károly Ferenczy is considered<br />
the father of Hungarian impressionist<br />
painting. He was on of the founders of the<br />
Nagybánya artist colony and later lived and<br />
worked here. Szentendre 2000, Kossuth Lajos u.<br />
5, T: (+36 26) 920 990, www.femuz.hu<br />
Margit kovács museum Drawing from folk<br />
and Byzantine influences, this famous 20thcentury<br />
ceramic sculptor reached high fame<br />
throughout Hungary. Open daily 10am-6pm.<br />
Szentendre 2000, Vastagh György u. 1. T: (+36<br />
20) 779 6659<br />
Serbian orthodox museum Rich ecclesiastic<br />
history of Hungary, told in an ornate, Baroque<br />
18th-century orthodox church. Open Mar-Dec<br />
Tue-Sun and Jan-Feb Fri-Sun. Szentendre 2000,<br />
Pátriárka u. 5. T: (+36 26) 312 399<br />
SZAMOS MARCIPÁN MUSEUM Quanit bakery<br />
café and museum showcasing elaborate marzipan<br />
figurines. Szentendre 2000, Dumtsa Jenő u.<br />
12-14, T: (+36 26) 311 931<br />
SKANZEN ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM This openair<br />
museum captures the essence of rural life<br />
in the 18th-20th centuries, showing village<br />
houses, churches and more. Szentendre 2000,<br />
Staravodai út. T: (+36 26) 502 537, www.sznm.hu<br />
photo: Peter Bauza<br />
16 WHERE BUDAPEST I OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong>
Autumn Attires<br />
The fall/winter collection of Hungarian designers is here.<br />
It is that time of the year when the breezy summer dresses are swapped<br />
for cozy sweaters and thick layers. Luckily, the growing number of young<br />
designers helps everyone bundle up in style.<br />
NANUSHKA The designs of Szandra Sándor – the creative spirit behind<br />
Nanushka – calls her latest collection Suitcase stories. It is inspired by the<br />
clothing bought during travels, which remind the owners of the special<br />
memories from their favorite trips. It features earthy tones, rich brown<br />
trousers, leather pants and leopard print sweaters. See listing on p.18.<br />
TOMCSANYI The story of this Budapest-based contemporary womenswear<br />
brand began in 2010 as a university project. The designer behind the brand is<br />
Dóri Tomcsányi, her collection is thoughtful and fun, maneuvering between<br />
minimalism and eclecticism. The new pieces (see photo) are inspired by<br />
bygone days of Eastern Europe, including velour skirts, silk pieces and dresses<br />
with tiny embroidered gold planes. The Garden Studio, Pest VI, Paulay Ede u. 18.<br />
Map D4 www.tomcsanyi.eu<br />
ÁERON Born into a textile dynasty, designer Eszter Áron says her childhood<br />
experiences influenced her aesthetics. The brand, Áeron, is known for its<br />
clean sharp lines and exquisite craftsmanship. The autumn/ winter collection<br />
includes mustard yellow velvet pieces, checked pantsuits, long camel coats<br />
and skirts with a masculine edge. Pest V, Zrínyi u. 4. Map C4 www.aeron.hu<br />
SHOPS & SERVICES<br />
Opening hours<br />
MOST SHOPS close earlier on Saturdays (between<br />
1pm and 4 pm) and many, but certainly<br />
not all, are closed on Sundays. Shops are usually<br />
open from 9am or 10am till 7pm till 9pm on<br />
weekdays.<br />
Accessories<br />
VARGA DESIGN Radiant jewelry designed by<br />
metal mastermind Miklós Varga. Sophisticated<br />
and artistic line contains irreproducible masterpieces<br />
with cobweb-like interwoven metals<br />
with expertly applied diamonds and pearls.<br />
Pest V, Haris köz 6. T: (+36 1) 318 4089, www.<br />
vargadesign.hu Map D5<br />
photo: Balázs Máté<br />
Clothing<br />
ANDA EMILIA Sleek clothing with simple lines<br />
and rich fabrics from this young Hungarian designer.<br />
Pest V, Galamb u. 4. T: (+36 30) 933 9746,<br />
www.andaemi.com Map D5<br />
BP CLOTHING This brand offers urban street wear<br />
for men and women, boasting the initials BP<br />
(standing for the capital city, Budapest). Pest VII,<br />
Wesselényi utca 24. T: (+36 70) 409 5114, www.<br />
bpshop.hu Map E5<br />
DORA ABODI Futuristic style meets timeless elegance<br />
at this Hungarian designer’s Showroom<br />
R9. Pest IX, Ráday u. 9. www.doraabodi.com<br />
Map E6<br />
FLEISCHER SHIRTS Already since the 1920s, this<br />
relatively unchanged shop has all sorts of<br />
tailored custom-made men’s attire. Closed on<br />
Sat, too. Pest VI, Nagymező u. 7. T: (+36 30) 754<br />
1958 Map E4<br />
www.<strong>where</strong>traveler.com 17
SHOPS & SERVICES<br />
RODODENDRON Cutting-edge wares of young local<br />
designers, including gifts, jewelry, and handcrafted<br />
footwear. Pest V, Semmelweis u. 19. T: (+36<br />
70) 419 5329, www.rododendron.hu Map D5<br />
SZPUTNYIK SHOP Vintage-clothing lovers and<br />
treasure hunters can find retro fashions and<br />
brand–new custom designs at two boutiques<br />
that serve as eclectic time capsules. www.szputnyikshop.hu<br />
Open Mon-Sat 10am–8pm at Pest<br />
VII, Dohány u.20. Map E5; Open Mon-Sat 11am-<br />
9pm at Pest VI, Király u.22. (Káldy Gy.u.1.) Map E4<br />
Sweet Bitter<br />
A typical Hungarian liqueur is Unicum, made from a secret formula of 40 herbs<br />
developed by the Zwack family and smuggled out of the country during communism.<br />
The original variation is rather bitter, but the company also developed a variety with<br />
a somewhat sweeter taste more appreciated by a younger generation (Unicum Next).<br />
The production facility in Budapest offers tours, which include a tasting session. Zwack<br />
Museum – Listing p.15, www.zwack.hu<br />
KATTI ZOÓB Modern tailoring by the acclaimed<br />
Hungarian designer, who is a defining player on<br />
the Hungarian fashion scene for more than 20<br />
years. Pest V, Szent István krt. 17. T: (+36 30) 657<br />
5794, www.kattizoob.hu Map D2<br />
LÉBER BARBARA Designing sophisticated wedding<br />
dresses and evening clothes. By appointment<br />
only. Buda XII, Alkotás u. 39/c. T: (+36 20)<br />
955 5686, www.leberbarbara.hu<br />
Manier Founded by Anikó Nemeth in 1992, the<br />
magic ambience of this showroom combines<br />
a passion for luxury fabrics, objects, and colors<br />
with elements of fantasy. Pest VI, Hajós u. 12. T:<br />
(+36 1) 354 1878, www.manier.hu Map E4<br />
Mom park A unique shopping mall in the heart<br />
of Buda, a place that combines the joy of<br />
shopping with culinairy experiences in style. It<br />
hosts several fashion,design and social events,<br />
and offers a wide range of premium brands like<br />
Michael Kors, Max& Co, Furla, Coccinelle, Nubu<br />
and other designer brands. Buda XII, Alkotás<br />
u.53, T: (+36 1)487 5501, www.mompark.com<br />
Map A6<br />
NANUSHKA London-trained Sándor Szandra’s<br />
designs combine playful cuts and lush fabrics<br />
with elegance and comfort. Pest V, Bécsi u.<br />
3 and Váci u. 27, T: (+36 70) 394 1954, www.<br />
nanushka.hu Map D5<br />
NÁRAY TAMÁS Streamlined prêt-à-porter fashions<br />
and accessories by a Paris-trained Hungarian<br />
designer. Closed on Sat. Pest VI, Hajós u. 17. T:<br />
(+36 1) 266 2473, www.naraytamas.com Map E4<br />
PELOTE TAILOR-MADE Everything custom-made;<br />
ties and two-, three-, and four-piece suits. Pest<br />
VI, Andrássy út 15. T: (+36 1) 411 1615, www.<br />
pelote.com Map D4<br />
TISZA A communist-era shoe brand revived with<br />
style and still manufactured in Hungary. www.<br />
tiszacipo.hu Pest VII, Károly krt. 1. T: (+36 1) 266<br />
3055 Map E5; WestEnd City Center: Pest VI, Váci<br />
út 1-3. T: (+36 1) 238 7505 Map E2<br />
ZILLI The exclusive luxury coat and menswear<br />
tailors and couturiers cater to those who want<br />
the best. Pest VI, Andrássy út 13. T: (+36 1) 267<br />
4448 Map D4<br />
Design Shops<br />
ARON DESIGN STORE Collection of sprightly<br />
goods by a pool of hip international artists.<br />
Mammut Mall: Buda II, Lövőház u. 2-6. www.<br />
aron-store.com Map A3<br />
MAGMA A gorgeous gallery of vanguard interior<br />
designers’ creations in countless mediums like<br />
glass, ceramics, and paper. Pest V, Petőfi S. u. 11.<br />
T: (+36 1) 235 0277, Map D5 Buda I, Úri u. 26-28.,<br />
Map B4, www.magma.hu<br />
mono art & design A design shop, gallery and<br />
viewing space – Mono merges fashion with<br />
art. The shop offers clothing, accessories and<br />
design objects from cutting-edge brands and<br />
contemporary artists. Open Mon-Fri 11am-8pm,<br />
Sat 10am-6pm. Pest V, Kossuth Lajos u. 12. www.<br />
facebook.com/monoartanddesign Map D5<br />
wonderlab A quirky store with jewelry, accessories,<br />
and clothing for women by 30 Hungarian<br />
designers. Closed on Mon. Pest V, Veres<br />
Pálné utca 3. T: (+36 20) 314 2058 Map D6<br />
Porcelain & Glass<br />
AJKA KRISTÁLY Finest crystal pieces and stemware<br />
in both modern and classical designs.<br />
www.ajka-crystal.hu Pest V, József Attila u. 7. T:<br />
(+36 1) 317 8133 Map D5; Pest V, Kossuth Lajos<br />
u. 10. T: (+36 1) 328 0844 Map D5; Pest XIII, Szent<br />
István krt. 18. T: (+36 1) 340 5083 Map D2<br />
HEREND PORCELAIN World-class fine china,<br />
painted by hand. www.herend.com Pest V, József<br />
Nádor tér 11. T: (+36 1) 317 2622 Map D5; Buda I,<br />
Szentháromság u. 5. T: (+36 1) 225 1051 Map B4;<br />
Pest VI, Andrássy út 16. T: (+36 1) 374 0006 Map E4<br />
HOLLÓHÁZA Hand-painted porcelain tableware<br />
and gift items. www.hollohazi.hu Pest VII,<br />
Dohány u. 1/C. T: (+36 20) 592 5676 Map E5;<br />
Haas & Czjzek: Pest VI, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 23. T:<br />
(+36 1) 311 4094 Map D4<br />
ZSOLNAY Porcelain from the famous factory in<br />
the southern town of Pécs, including dinnerware,<br />
vases, and individual pieces. www.zsolnay.hu<br />
Haas & Czjzek: Pest VI, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky<br />
út 23. T: (+36 1) 311 4094 Map D4<br />
Markets<br />
CENTRAL MARKET HALL Everything you might<br />
want, from vegetables, meat, bread and<br />
cheese to wild boar and fish (downstairs in the<br />
cellars). Upstairs they sell Hungarian crafts and<br />
souvenirs. Open Mon 6am-5pm, Tue-Fri 6am-<br />
6pm and Sat 6am-3pm. Pest IX, Vámház krt. 1-3.<br />
T: (+36 1) 366 3300, www.piaconline.hu Map E6<br />
fény street market Located near Széll Kálmán<br />
tér, this market is a favorite of many expats. It<br />
offers a wide variety of fresh produce, pastries,<br />
baked goods, and luxury food. Buda II, Lövőház<br />
utca 12. www.fenyutcaipiac.hu Map A3<br />
downtown market This lesser known market<br />
hall in the vicinity of Parliament is smaller than<br />
its big brother (Central Market) but is just as<br />
pretty and offers the same range of products.<br />
Upstairs, there are all sorts of take-aways and<br />
small restaurants which make it an ideal spot<br />
for a quick lunch. Closed on Sundays, Pest V,<br />
Hold utca 13, www.piaconline.hu Map D4<br />
Escorts<br />
ESCORT 2 NIGHT Beautiful and charming ladies<br />
are waiting for you in Budapest to offer pleasant<br />
companionship for nights out in Budapest, or as<br />
partners for corporate events. Non-stop service.<br />
T: (+36 20) 965 8033 or (+36 20) 502 8971, www.<br />
escort2night.hu<br />
18 WHERE BUDAPEST I OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong>
WELLNESS<br />
Leaves of Red<br />
and Gold<br />
Places to enjoy colorful autumn walks<br />
When leaves start to fall and the ground gets<br />
covered in a blanket of red and gold, there are<br />
a number of places in Budapest to observe the<br />
colors of the season.<br />
BUDA CASTLE The leafy outer walkways of<br />
Castle Hill and the parks at Várkert Bazár and at<br />
the foot of Fishermans Bastion are surprisingly<br />
quiet and peaceful, seeing how close they are<br />
to some major tourist attractions. The autumn<br />
colors make the views you get from here even<br />
more enchanting. Map A4, B4-5<br />
MARGIT ISLAND With its many romantic<br />
walkways, the island is another great place for a<br />
leisurely stroll. Don’t forget to go to the musical<br />
fountain near Margit Bridge. It plays music<br />
ranging from Vivaldi and Brahms to Simon and<br />
Garfunkel and the Rolling Stones at specific<br />
times (10:30am and 6pm, 7:30pm, and 9pm) and<br />
operates till October 31. Map C0-1-2<br />
NORMAFA HILL The meadows and forest on the<br />
major hill overlooking Buda offer breath-taking<br />
views over the entire city and the Danube. It’s an<br />
easy walk from the parking area/bus stop (bus<br />
21) to the Erzsébet tower on János Hill and back,<br />
or you can wander into the surrounding woods.<br />
Buda XII, Off Map<br />
Beauty<br />
bank center beauty salon Close to St. Stephen’s<br />
Basilica, professional cosmetic services based on<br />
30 years of experience, customized for every client.<br />
Innovative therapies and cellular rejuvenation<br />
to revitalize skin. Open Mon-Fri 10am-8pm, Sat<br />
by appointment. Pest V, Arany János u. 28 (in the<br />
Bank Center passage). T: (+36 30) 257 4825, www.<br />
kissanikomesterkozmetikus.hu Map D4<br />
CLINIQUE Internationally renowned skincare and<br />
makeup customized for individual complexions.<br />
Open Mon-Sat 10am-6pm. Pest V, Váci u. 8.<br />
T: (+36 1) 266 7828, www.clinique.hu Map D5<br />
DOUGLAS Europe’s largest seller of cosmetics<br />
and fragrances, carrying the most popular<br />
beauty brands. Pest V, Váci u. 11/A. T: (+36 1) 318<br />
2323, www.douglas-parfumeria.hu Map D5<br />
ESTÉE LAUDER The legendary Hungarian<br />
cosmetics doyenne of makeup and skin care.<br />
Pest V, Váci u. 12. T: (+36 1) 266 7829, www.esteelauder.hu<br />
Map D5<br />
LE PARFUM Hungary’s only master perfumer<br />
offers consultations to find your ideal aroma<br />
from a myriad of international brands. Pest V,<br />
Deák Ferenc u. 18. T: (+36 30) 405 0668, www.<br />
leparfum.hu Map D6<br />
LUSH A fragrant shop with all-natural, fresh handmade<br />
cosmetics, bath products, makup, and<br />
perfume. Pest V, Szent István krt. 1. T: (+36 1) 277<br />
0840, www.lush.hu Map C2<br />
MAC Fashion-forward line of fine cosmetics, fragrances,<br />
nail care, and accessories. Create your<br />
personalized color palettes. Open Mon-Sat<br />
10am-6pm. Pest V, Váci u. 8. T: (+36 1) 328 0396,<br />
www.maccosmetics.com Map D5<br />
METROPOLITAN Complete grooming and style<br />
on a quiet street in the heart of downtown.<br />
Open Mon-Fri 10am-6pm and Sat 10am-2pm.<br />
Pest V, Aulich u. 4-6. T: (+36 30) 500 8342, www.<br />
metropolitanbudapest.hu Map D3<br />
OMOROVICZA Hungarian healing waters in<br />
pure innovative skin care, now internationally<br />
popular at upscale department stores. www.<br />
omorovicza.com Pest VI, Andrássy út 2. T: (+36<br />
1) 302 4604. Map D4; Open Mon-Sat 10am-6pm<br />
at Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace: Pest<br />
V, Széchenyi István tér 5-6. T: (+36 1) 286 6000,<br />
Map C4<br />
DENTAL SERVICES<br />
BUDAPEST DENTAL Large staff of experienced<br />
dentists and oral surgeons in ultramodern<br />
setting. Free treatment plans and consultations.<br />
Open Mon-Fri 8am-8pm. Pest XIII, Szent István<br />
krt. 10. T: (+36 1) 315 4545, www.budapestdental.hu<br />
Map D2<br />
DR. éva csibrey Friendly and conveniently<br />
located private practice specializing in general<br />
family care. Open Mon and Wed 9am-6pm, Tue<br />
and Thu 9am-1pm. Buda II, Fillér u. 6. T: (+36 1)<br />
316 0483, www.csibrey.hu Map A3<br />
jewel DENTAL A comfortable and welcoming<br />
modern facility specializing in painless implant<br />
technology for international visitors to Hungary<br />
seeking a new smile. Pest V, Nádor u. 23. T: (+36<br />
30) 592 1847, www.jeweldental.eu Map C4<br />
KREATIV DENTAL A global leader in dental tourism.<br />
They offer free consultation and take care<br />
of every treatment you want if you plan it well<br />
ahead. They also have an on-site laboratory.<br />
Pest XIV, Vezér u. 100. T: (+36 1) 222 0199, www.<br />
kreativdentalclinic.eu<br />
Fitness Centers<br />
ASTORIA FITNESS CENTER Well-equipped modern<br />
gym, close to the famous hotel with the<br />
same name.. Open Mon-Fri 6:30am-midnight<br />
and Sat-Sun 10am-9pm at Pest V, Károly krt. 4. T:<br />
(+36 1) 317 0452, www.astoriafitness.hu Map E5<br />
www.<strong>where</strong>traveler.com 19
WELLNESS<br />
DANUBIUS PREMIER FITNESS Hungary’s largest<br />
fitness-club chain with four Budapest locations.<br />
State-of the-art equipment. www.premierfitness.hu<br />
Spa Resort Margaret Island: Budapest<br />
XIII, T: (+36 1) 889 4914 Map D0; Spa Resort Helia:<br />
Pest XIII, Kárpát u. 62-64. T: (+36 1) 889 5820<br />
Map D0; Hotel Arena: Pest XIV, Ifjúság útja 1-3.<br />
T: (+36 1) 889 5282; Hotel Flamenco: Buda XI, Tas<br />
vezér u. 3-7. T: (+36 1) 889 5761<br />
FITNESS FACTORY Top-class fitness and wellness<br />
center that’s parent-friendly. Open Mon-Fri<br />
6:30am-10:30pm and Sat-Sun 8am-8pm. Pest<br />
XIII, Róbert Károly körút 54-58 (Material Center<br />
5th floor). T: (+36 1) 238 0764, www.fitnessfactory.hu<br />
Map F0<br />
HOLMES PLACE Exclusive center in the heart<br />
of the Jewish Quarter. part of an international<br />
chain with over 85 clubs. Open Mon-Thu<br />
6:30am- 10:30pm, Fri 6:30pm-9:30pm and Sat-<br />
Sun 10am- 8pm. Pest VII, Holló u. 12-14. T: (+36 1)<br />
878 1301, www.holmesplace.hu Map E5<br />
LITE WELLNESS CLUB Aiming to improve their<br />
members’ quality of life, this club has trainers<br />
and instructors, as well as dieticians and<br />
physiotherapists. Open Mon-Fri 6am-10pm and<br />
Sat-Sun 8am-9pm. Buda XII, Lövőház u. 2-6. T:<br />
(+36 1) 310 7390, www.litewellness.hu<br />
OXYGEN WELLNESS NAPHEGY A fitness complex<br />
overlooking downtown Budapest, with<br />
exercise machines, an indoor swimming area,<br />
treatment services, saunas, and steam rooms,<br />
and even a restaurant and cocktail bar. Open<br />
Mon-Fri 6am-10:30pm, Sat-Sun 8am-8pm. Buda<br />
I, Naphegy u. 67. T: (+36 20) 393 4219, www.<br />
oxygenwellness.hu Map B6<br />
WORLDCLASS HEALTH ACADEMY Elite fitness<br />
centers at two different city locations with a<br />
variety of membership options. Open Mon-Fri<br />
6am-10pm and Sat-Sun 8am-9pm. Marriott<br />
Hotel: Pest V, Apáczai Csere János út 4-6. T: (+36<br />
1) 266 3804, www.worldclass.hu Map C-D5<br />
Golf Courses<br />
magyar These verdant links dating back to<br />
1911 are located on a peaceful Danube isle just<br />
north of Budapest. Kisoroszi, Golf út 1. www.<br />
magyargolfclub.hu<br />
pannonia This elegant country club features<br />
an 18-hole championship facility and Englishlanguage<br />
golf lessons. Máriavölgy, near Etyek. T:<br />
(+36 22) 594 200, www.golfclub.hu<br />
pRIVATE CLINICS<br />
DR. ROSE MEDICAL CENTER The advantages<br />
of a full-service hospital in a patient-oriented<br />
private clinic. Pest V, Széchenyi tér 7-8. T: (+36 1)<br />
377 6737, www.drrose.hu Map C4<br />
FIRSTMED CENTERS A subsidy of American<br />
Clinics International, this modern facility has<br />
preventative care, urgent care, and family<br />
medicine. By appointment Mon-Fri 8am-8pm<br />
and Sat 8am-2pm. Buda I, Hattyú u. 14. T: (+36 1)<br />
224 9090, www.firstmed.hu Map A3<br />
MEDICOVER International health care provider<br />
with centers across Central and Eastern Europe,<br />
including three in Budapest, focused on disease<br />
prevention. Open Mon-Fri 7am-8pm. Pest<br />
VI, Teréz krt. 55-57. T: (+36 1) 465 3100. www.<br />
medicover.com Map E3<br />
VIRÁNYOS CLINIC Located in the hushed Buda<br />
Hills, with preventative care, plastic surgery,<br />
and outpatient treatments. Also has 24-hour<br />
English-speaking urgent care. Open Mon-Fri<br />
8am-8pm. Buda XII, Virányos út 23/D. T: (+36 1)<br />
275 0377, www.viranyosklinika.hu<br />
Spas<br />
aquincum spa Offering beauty treatments<br />
utilizing the curative mud of Hévíz. Open daily<br />
6am-10pm. Buda III, Árpád fejedelem útja 94.<br />
T: (+36 1) 436 4130, www.aquincumhotel.com/<br />
hu/spa-es-wellness<br />
boscolo SPA Enjoy the benefits of this unique<br />
deluxe facility to relax and refresh your body<br />
and mind. The breathtaking design inspired by<br />
an Alpine ice tunnel, <strong>where</strong> lights are reflected<br />
from Swarowski crystals, provides an ideal<br />
place to escape from everyday rush. Enjoy a<br />
wide variety of facilities and treatments every<br />
day. Pest VII, Erzsébet krt. 9-11. T: (+36 1) 886<br />
6125, www.boscolohotels.com Map F5<br />
continental spa Luxurious rooftop wellness<br />
area offering indoor and outdoor pools, saunas,<br />
and a wide variety of modern amenities.<br />
Open 9am-9pm. Continental Hotel Budapest:<br />
Pest VII, Dohány u. 42-44. T: (+36 30) 914 8572,<br />
www.continentalhotelbudapest.com Map F5<br />
DANUBIUS HEALTH SPA MARGITSZIGET Day-spa<br />
visitors are welcome to indulge in hot mineral<br />
thermal baths, saunas, steam rooms, hydro<br />
pools, fitness, classes, and a choice of over 100<br />
medical or pampering treatments, conducted<br />
in pristine, elegant surroundings. Margaret<br />
Island. T: (+36 1) 889 4914, www.premierfitness.<br />
hu Map D0<br />
ISIS DAY SPA Luxurious treatments using some<br />
ancient Roman and Turkish techniques. Body<br />
wraps, beauty treatments, and couples packages.<br />
Try a rainforest shower, which combines<br />
a healing touch with dripping warm water.<br />
Open daily 10am-10pm. Pest VIII, Üllői út 14. T:<br />
(+36 1) 266 7788, www.isisdayspa.hu Map E6<br />
KEMPINSKI the SPA Relaxing wellness center<br />
overlooking Erzsébet Square, with deluxe<br />
amenities and a variety of treatments inspired<br />
by the European cycle of seasons. Open daily<br />
7am-10pm. Kempinski Hotel Corvinus: Pest<br />
V, Erzsébet tér 7-8. T: (+36 1) 429 3585, www.<br />
kempinski.com/budapest Map D5<br />
MASCULIN A fresh, exquisitely decorated<br />
gentlemen’s-only spa and day salon with treatments,<br />
pedicures and manicures. Pamper the<br />
softer side with makeup or body treatments<br />
in this sanctuary for the exigent male. Open<br />
Tue-Fri 10am-8pm and Sat noon-6pm. Pest<br />
XIII, Pozsonyi út 12. T: (+36 1) 786 4642, www.<br />
masculin.hu Map D2<br />
ROYAL SPA With a huge pool, fitness center, and<br />
full treatment services in a historic setting,<br />
the Royal Spa reigns as an elegant respite of<br />
serenity in the center of downtown. Open<br />
daily 6:30am-10pm. Corinthia Hotel Budapest:<br />
Pest VII, Erzsébet krt. 43-49. T: (+36 1) 479 4650,<br />
www.corinthia.com/budapest Map F4<br />
spa intercontinental Enjoy exquisite wellness<br />
treatments and spa services (including<br />
couples’ rubdowns and Japanese shiatsu) in<br />
this recently renovated facility. Open daily<br />
6am-10pm. InterContinental Budapest: Pest V,<br />
Apáczai Csere János u. 12-14. T: (+36 1) 327 6427,<br />
www.budapest.intercontinental.com Map C5<br />
THE SPA AT FOUR SEASONS HOTEL GRESHAM<br />
PALACE Offering an extensive range of rejuvenating<br />
therapies, services, and treatments using<br />
the best organic products. Located on the<br />
top floor of the hotel, the spa features private<br />
wellness and treatment rooms, unisex sauna,<br />
separate steam rooms for men and women,<br />
a whirlpool, and fitness facilities. Open daily<br />
6am-10pm. Pest V, Széchenyi tér 5-6. T: (+36 1)<br />
268 5500, www.fourseasons.com/budapest/<br />
spa.html Map C4<br />
Swimming Pools &<br />
Thermal Baths<br />
CSILLAGHEGY The oldest swimming pool in<br />
Budapest, built into a terraced hillside with a<br />
restaurant and separate pools for leisure, swimming,<br />
and children. Buda III, Pusztakúti út 2-6. T:<br />
(+36 1) 242 0754, www.csillaghegyistrand.hu<br />
GELLÉRT A turn-of-the-century spa complex adjacent<br />
to the Gellért Danubius Hotel. Mosaiccovered<br />
terraces and halls, also anoutdoor<br />
pool in summer. Open daily 6am-8pm. Buda<br />
XI, Szt. Gellért tér 1. T: (+36 1) 466 6166, www.<br />
gellertfurdo.hu Map D7<br />
KIRÁLY One of Budapest’s oldest Turkish baths,<br />
with original parts of the building dating back<br />
to the 16th century. All facilities are available to<br />
both men and women daily, with swimwear required.<br />
Open daily 9am-9pm. Buda II, Fő u. 84.<br />
T: (+36 1) 202 3688, www.kiralyfurdo.hu Map B3<br />
LUKÁCS A historic spa with a wide range of curative<br />
amenities and eight pools. It is one of the<br />
few spas <strong>where</strong> there are hardly any tourists.<br />
Open daily 6am-9pm. Buda II, Frankel Leó. u.<br />
25-29. T: (+36 1) 326 1695, www.lukacsfurdo.hu<br />
Map B1<br />
PALATINUS Located on Margaret Island, this<br />
premier summer waterpark encompasses<br />
many fun pools - including a wave pool <strong>where</strong><br />
guests can learn how to surf - water slides,<br />
sports grounds, along with sun beds in the<br />
lush garden. Open in summer, daily from 9am<br />
till early evening. Margaret Island XIII. T: (+36 1)<br />
236 0040, www.palatinusstrand.hu Map C1<br />
RUDAS Hungary’s most historic Turkish bath,<br />
built in the 16th century with stunning octagonal<br />
pool. But it also has several more modern<br />
facilities, including a wonderful yacuzzi pool<br />
on the roof, from <strong>where</strong> you have a magnificent<br />
view over the river Danube. Buda I, Döbrentei<br />
tér 9. T: (+36 1) 356 1322, www.rudasfurdo.<br />
hu Map C6<br />
SZÉCHENYI This beautiful building in City Park<br />
is the most famous and popular of Budapest’s<br />
baths, with outdoor and indoor thermal and<br />
swimming pools open year-round. Pest XIV,<br />
Állatkerti krt. 11. T: (+36 1) 363 3210, www.szechenyifurdo.hu<br />
Map G2<br />
VELI BEJ An old Turkish bath that is part of a<br />
hospital owned by the Ordo Hospitalarius. Its<br />
five thermal pools , including the octagonal<br />
dome, are open to the public in the mornings<br />
(6am-noon) and afternoons (3pm-9pm). Buda<br />
II, Árpád fejedelem útja 7, T: (+36 1) 438 8400<br />
Map B1<br />
20 WHERE BUDAPEST I OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong>
DINING<br />
October Fest<br />
The best brew in town<br />
Like the original Oktoberfest in Münich,<br />
Germany, this Paulaner Oktoberfest<br />
Budapest is a celebration of this favorite<br />
malty beverage, this year held at the Kincsem<br />
Park, the major horse race track in Budapest.<br />
Three huge tents have been erected (The<br />
Paulaner Tent, the Retro Party Tent and the<br />
Pschorr Tent) and beer lovers will be able to<br />
not only taste more than 300 sorts of beer,<br />
but there will also be a variety of typical meals<br />
from the Bayern region to choose from, such<br />
as Wiezn-Hendl (a grilled chicken variety) and<br />
Brezn (a type of bread). Live performances<br />
of over 50 artists/bands will entertain the<br />
public, and there are also horse and harness<br />
races and a childrens program. Tickets can<br />
be bought on the spot, free transport by bus<br />
from metro station Stadionok. Oct 5-8, Pest X,<br />
Kincsem Park, Albertirsai út 2-4, Off Map – www.<br />
oktoberfestbudapest.hu<br />
#budapest<br />
Squash your view of Hard Rock Cafe food – we’re rolling out vegetarian items<br />
for our meatless diet friends. Now available for a limited time!<br />
Budapest | Vörösmarty Square | Reservations: +36 30 572 4011<br />
www.<strong>where</strong>traveler.com 21
DINING<br />
Tea & Coffeehouses<br />
ANNA CAFÉ One of Budapest’s best places for<br />
people-watching, at two locations. www.<br />
annacafe.hu Open daily 8_30am-9pm at Pest<br />
V, Fővám tér 6. T: (+36 1) 266 2820 Map D6;<br />
Fri-Mon 8:30am-midnight and Tue-Wed<br />
8:30am-11pm at Pest V, Váci u. 5. T: (+36 1) 266<br />
9080 Map D5<br />
AUGUSZT The first Auguszt confectionery,<br />
reopened in 1957, with biscuits, cakes, and<br />
ice creams. www.auguszt.hu Open Mon-Fri<br />
9am-7pm and Sat 11am-6pm at Pest V, Kossuth<br />
Lajos u. 14-16. T: (+36 1) 337 6379 Map A3; Open<br />
Wed-Sun 10am-6pm at Buda XI, Sasadi út 190. T:<br />
(+36 1) 249 0134<br />
ANGELIKA Tranquil setting, pretty marzipan concoctions.<br />
Open April-October: 9am-midnight,<br />
November-March: 9am-11pm. Buda I, Batthyány<br />
tér 7. T: (+36 1) 225 1653, www.angelikacafe.hu<br />
Map B3<br />
Art nouveau café Small coffee house decorated<br />
with old-world furniture in unique Art<br />
Nouveau style, it also houses a small museum.<br />
Pest V, Honvéd u.3. T : (+36 1) 269 4622, www.<br />
magyarszecessziohaza.hu Map D3<br />
BAMBI ESZPRESSZÓ This popular café has a retro<br />
feel as it hasn’t been renovated since it opened<br />
its doors in the 1960s. With its red faux leather<br />
chairs, embroidered tablecloths, yellow-green<br />
mosaic pillars, and back corner <strong>where</strong> people<br />
play dominos, cards and board games, it is the<br />
perfect café (with terrace) to experience life as<br />
it was under communism. Open daily, Buda II,<br />
Frankel Leó utca 2-4. T: (+36 1)212 3171, Map B2<br />
CAFÉ ALIBI This recently renovated cozy spot<br />
serves premium coffee, tea, and cocoa drinks,<br />
along with breakfast and light entrees like<br />
sandwiches and salads. Open daily 8am-11pm.<br />
Pest V, Egyetem tér 4. T: (+36 1) 317 4209, www.<br />
cafealibi.hu Map E3<br />
CENTRÁL CAFÉ Old-fashioned splendor with fine<br />
dining and tasty pastries. The first old coffee<br />
house to reopen in the 90s. Open daily 8am-<br />
11pm. Pest V, Károlyi Mihály u. 9. T: (+36 1) 266<br />
2110, www.centralkavehaz.hu Map D6<br />
ECO CAFÉ Enjoy delicious organic coffees,<br />
teas and healthy snacks: including biscuits,<br />
sandwiches, salads, and pastries at this ecoconscious<br />
eatery. Whenever possible, products<br />
are fairly traded for guilt-free indulgence. Open<br />
Mon-Sat 7am-8pm, Sun 8am-8pm. Pest VI,<br />
Andrássy út 68. www.ecocafe.hu Map E3<br />
ELSŐ PESTI TEAHÁZ One of the best selections<br />
of teas in the city. Open Mon-Fri 10am-6pm<br />
and Sat 10am-2pm. Pest XIII, Katona J. u. 5. T:<br />
(+36 1) 359 3028, www.elso-pesti-teahaz.hu<br />
Map D2<br />
FARGER Inviting, casual café overlooking historical<br />
and verdant Szabadság Square. Open<br />
Mon-Fri 7am-9pm and Sat-Sun 9am-6pm. Pest<br />
V, Zoltán u. 18. T: (+36 20) 237 7825, www.farger.<br />
hu Map D4<br />
GERBEAUD Budapest’s world-famous historic<br />
coffeehouse with old-time elegance right in<br />
the center of town. Open daily 9am-9pm. Pest<br />
V, Vörösmarty tér 7-8. T: (+36 1) 429 9000, www.<br />
gerbeaud.hu Map D5<br />
MIRAGE CAFÉ AND TERRACE This café offers<br />
a good view of Heroes Square (Hősök tér), a<br />
small à la cart menu, cocktails, and water pipes<br />
(hookah). Open daily 10am-10pm, Pest VI,<br />
Dózsa György út 88. T: (+36 1) 462 7070, www.<br />
miragehotelbudapest.com Map G2<br />
MLINAR The venerable Croatian bakery now<br />
offers tasty pastries and sandwiches in cafés at<br />
two Budapest locations. www.mlinar.hr Open<br />
Mon-Fri 7am-8pm, Sat 8am-6pm and Sun<br />
8am-3pm at Pest VIII, Corvin sétány 1/A-1/B Map<br />
F7; Open Mon-Fri 7am-7pm at Pest IX, Lechner<br />
Ödön fasor 7 Map F9<br />
NEW YORK CAFÉ AND SALON Both are Michelin<br />
recommended and situated in the gloriously<br />
decorated baroque New York palace which is<br />
one of Budapest’s most legendary buildings.<br />
Pest VII, Erzsébet krt. 9-11. T: (+36 1) 886 6167,<br />
www.newyorkcafe.hu Map F5<br />
RUSZWURM Charming Castle District café dating<br />
back to 1827, with a beautiful interior. Cash only.<br />
Open daily 10am-7pm. Buda I, Szentháromság<br />
u. 7. T: (+36 1) 375 5284, www.ruszwurm.hu<br />
Map B4<br />
SUGAR! A wonderland of sweets, including freshbaked<br />
cupcakes and delicious ice cream. Open<br />
Mon noon-10pm, Tue-Sun 10:30am-10pm. Pest<br />
VI, Paulay Ede u. 48. T: (+36 1) 321 6672, www.<br />
sugarshop.hu Map E4<br />
SZAMOS GOURMET PALACE This confectionery,<br />
coffeehouse, and chocolatier is now open at<br />
Vörösmarty Square, <strong>where</strong> pralines are made<br />
fresh before guests’ eyes and candy-making<br />
lessons are offered by a chocolate master.<br />
Varied menu available daily at noon. Open<br />
daily 8:30am-9pm. Pest V, Váci u. 1. T: (+36 30)<br />
570 5973, www.szamosmarcipan.hu and www.<br />
csokoladeiskola.hu Map D5<br />
SZAMOS MARCIPÁN Original cookie, cake, and<br />
ice cream specialties, marzipan gift wrappings<br />
and chocolate desserts. Open daily 10am-7pm.<br />
Pest V, Párizsi u. 3. T: (+36 1) 317 3643, www.<br />
szamosmarcipan.hu Map D5<br />
ZILA KÁVÉHÁZ Elegant coffeehouse with an<br />
early-20th-century atmosphere. Open daily<br />
10am-10pm. Pest XVIII, Üllői út 452. T: (+36 1) 290<br />
2417, www.zilakavehaz.hu<br />
Hungarian<br />
21 Michelin recommended. Casual Hungarian restaurant<br />
<strong>where</strong> locals go for real regional flavors<br />
like they used to be, with only characteristic<br />
Hungarian wines. In Buda’s medieval Castle<br />
District. Buda I, Fortuna u. 21. T: (+36 1) 202 2113,<br />
www.21restaurant.hu Map B4<br />
ARANY KAVIÁR Michelin recommended place<br />
for fine dining with a wide range of top-caliber<br />
caviar, excellent seafood selection, and exquisite<br />
Hungarian dishes. Buda I, Ostrom u. 19. T:<br />
(+36 1) 201 6737, www.aranykaviar.hu Map A3<br />
ARAZ Michelin recommended. The restaurant<br />
is part of the Zara Intercontinental hotel in<br />
the Jewish quarter and offers Hungarian and<br />
French cuisine in the elegant Art Nouveau<br />
ambience of a former Bath House. Pest VII,<br />
Dohány u. 42-44. T: (+36 1) 815 1100, www.araz.<br />
hu Map F5<br />
ART’OTEL Michelin recommended hotel restaurant<br />
on the Buda embankment almost opposite<br />
Parliament. Modern Hungarian cuisine<br />
and modern interior with original artworks<br />
on the walls. Views over the river. Buda I, Bem<br />
Rakpart 16-19, T: (+36 1) 487 9439, www.artotels.<br />
com, Map B4<br />
BAbel Michelin recommended fine dining<br />
restaurant in the heart of the city, focusing on<br />
seasonal, regional delicacies with the majority<br />
of the raw material coming from Hungary, just<br />
like the decorations and materials used in the<br />
restaurant. Pest V, Piarista köz 2. T: (+36 70) 6000<br />
800, www.babel-budapest.hu Map D6<br />
BALTAZÁR A Michelin recommended familyowned<br />
gastro playground with a warm and<br />
friendly atmosphere. Enjoy gourmet street<br />
food made with fresh ingredients, along with<br />
notable wines of the Carpathian Basin. Buda<br />
I, Országház u. 31. T: (+36 1) 300 7050, www.<br />
baltazarbudapest.com Map A4<br />
BOCK BISTRO Two Michelin recommended<br />
restaurants, one located in the Corinthia Hotel<br />
building in downtown Pest, the other in a<br />
modern glass and wood building with big terrace<br />
in a leafy part of Buda. Both serve modern<br />
Hungarian food and wonderful Hungarian<br />
wines. www.bockbisztro.hu Pest VII, Erzsébet<br />
krt. 43-49. T: (+36 1) 321 0340, Map F4 (closed on<br />
Sun); Buda XII, Szarvas Gábor út 8. T: (+36 1) 376<br />
6044, Off Map (closed on Mon and Tue).<br />
BORkantin With almost 40 different wines on<br />
the menu, this Michelin recommended restaurant<br />
is offering Hungarian and international<br />
delicacies made from seasonal, high-quality<br />
ingredients, which can be accompanied with<br />
the most suitable wines. Pest V, Váci u 83. T: (+36<br />
1) 794 5385, www.borkantin.hu Map D6<br />
BORKONYHA The Michelin recommended<br />
“Winekitchen” is a bustling wine-orientated<br />
blend of a French-style bistro and a contemporary<br />
family restaurant near the Basilica, offering<br />
the best of Hungarian cuisine. Shaded terrace<br />
in spring and summer. Pest V, Sas utca 3, T: (+36<br />
1) 266 0835, www.borkonyha.hu Map D4<br />
BRASSERIE & ATRIUM Michelin recommended<br />
restaurant that is part of the elegant Corinthia<br />
Hotel. Fne lunches and dinners, and gourmet<br />
Sunday brunches with many classic Hungarian<br />
dishes. Pest VII, Erzsébet krt. 43-49. T: (+36 1) 479<br />
4850, www.corinthia.com/budapest Map F4<br />
BUDAPEST TERRACE CAFÉ & RESTAURANT Situated<br />
at the foot of the Palace on Castle Hill, it<br />
offers modern Hungarian and Italian dishes and<br />
an amazing panorama of Budapest. Seating on<br />
several levels. Buda I, Buda Castle. T: (+36 30) 375<br />
6774, www.budapestterrace.hu Map B5<br />
COSTES The older Costes in Ráday street has had<br />
a Michein star for years, but the new Costes<br />
Downtown in Vigyázó street also got one more<br />
recently. Both restaurants serve accomplished<br />
innovative dishes by a talented chef who<br />
photo: MAJTIKA FOTÓ<br />
22 WHERE BUDAPEST I OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong>
DINING<br />
www.<strong>where</strong>traveler.com 23<br />
177x124_<strong>where</strong>_magyarizek_arazENG_09.20.indd 1 20/09/17 11:29
DINING<br />
RESTAURANTS of the MONTH<br />
Pest V, Hold utca 13, Map D4, Closed on Sun,<br />
T: (+36 30) 430 0142, www.facebook.com/Kispiac<br />
KISPIAC BISZTRÓ<br />
It’s a small old-style neighborhood bistro just off Szabadság<br />
(Freedom) Square, serving traditional Hungarian food in a<br />
very homey atmosphere. In fact, it is so traditional that it<br />
doesn’t have an English language website or menu, but that<br />
shouldn’t deter you, as staff are very friendly and helpful. The<br />
menu varies almost daily and ingredients come straight from<br />
the adjacent local market, the Vásárcsarnok. Kispiac offers<br />
homemade jams, various roasts, grilled chicken or duck,<br />
pickled vegetables, and various other typically Hungarian<br />
specialties. It is also a very nice place for a traditional<br />
Hungarian lunch. There are only 10 tables or so inside and<br />
three or four outside on the street, so be in time.<br />
BOCK BISZTRÓ PEST<br />
This Michelin-Guide recommended restaurant opened<br />
in 2004, when well-known winemaker József Bock joined<br />
forces with a local chef, Lajos Bíró. The idea was to create<br />
an up-market wine bar with an ambitious menu of modern<br />
Hungarian cuisine mixed with imported flavors and<br />
ingredients. There are now two more Bock restaurants in<br />
Hungary (one in Buda, one near Lake Balaton) and one<br />
abroad. According to a Michelin inspector, Bock Bisztró Pest,<br />
situated in the luxurious Corinthia Hotel building, is a “busy<br />
and buzzy” bistro with a friendly and knowledgeable staff, its<br />
cooking is “gutsy” and traditional with a modern twist ), and<br />
the shelves are packed with interesting wines.<br />
Pest VII, Erzsébet krt. 43-49, Map F4,<br />
T: (36 1) 321 0340, www.bockbisztro.hu<br />
Pest V, Ferenciek tere 7-8, Map D6,<br />
T: (+36 1) 317 3596, www.karpatia.hu<br />
KÁRPÁTIA<br />
Kárpátia offers authentic and modern Hungarian food with<br />
superb live gypsy music in a special turn-of-the-century<br />
atmosphere. The food is of high-quality and there is a wide<br />
range of choice, such as very traditional dishes from various<br />
regions in the Carpathian basin, as well as all sorts of modern<br />
Hungarian cuisine. The spirited gypsy orchestra, which plays<br />
every night, is led by Lajos Sárközi senior, one of the very<br />
best prímás (violin maestro) in the country. Finally, the interior<br />
of the restaurant, which has been open since 1877 and is<br />
located in an old convent, is colorfully painted and features<br />
gilded walls and old wooden furniture. It’s location in the<br />
heart of Pest makes it very easy to reach.<br />
24 WHERE BUDAPEST I OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong>
DINING<br />
uses modern techniques. Costes Downtown<br />
has a somewhat more relaxed atmosphere.<br />
Costes, Pest IX, Ráday u. 4. T: (+36 1) 219 0696,<br />
Map E6 Costes Downtown, Pest V, Vigyázó<br />
Ferenc u. 5. T: (+36 1) 920 1015, Map E4 www.<br />
costes.hu<br />
DÉRYNÉ BISTRO Michelin recommended<br />
bistro and café dating back to 1914 with a full<br />
breakfast menu, seasonal lunch specials and<br />
gourmet dinners. Buda I, Krisztina tér 3. T: (+36<br />
1) 225 1407, www.bistroderyne.com Map B5<br />
ÉS Michelin recommended restaurant. Enjoy<br />
tasting-size portions of Hungarian and Austrian<br />
specialties served in a stylishly laid-back bistro<br />
overlooking Fashion Street. Highlights include<br />
grilled steaks and fine regional wines. Pest<br />
V, Deák Ferenc u. 12-14. www.esbisztro.hu<br />
Map D5<br />
GRESHAM RESTAURANT Michelin recommended<br />
restaurant in the Jugendstill Gresham Palace<br />
that houses the Four Seasons hotel. Magnificent<br />
view of the riverfront with Chain Bridge<br />
and Castle Hill. Pest V, Széchenyi tér 5. T: (+36<br />
1) 268 6000, www.fourseasons.com/budapest<br />
Map C4<br />
GUNDEL Michelin recommended and highly<br />
elegant restaurant in City Park that serves upscale<br />
Hungarian gastronomy. Pest XIV, Gundel<br />
Károly út 4. T: (+36 1) 468 4040, www.gundel.<br />
hu Map G2<br />
HALÁSZBÁSTYA Boasting spectacular Danube<br />
and Pest views from its fairy-tale location in a<br />
Fishermen’s Bastion tower on Castle Hill, this<br />
regal restaurant serves Hungarian delicacies<br />
like Grey Cattle, Mangalica ham, and wild<br />
game. Truly quality food. Buda I, Fishermen’s<br />
Bastion. T: (+36 1) 201 6935, www.halaszbastya.<br />
eu Map B4<br />
Kispiac bisztró Old-style neighborhood bistro<br />
just of Szabadság Square, serving traditional<br />
Hungarian food in a homey atmosphere. The<br />
menu varies almost daily and ingredients come<br />
straight from the adjacent local market, the<br />
Vásárcsarnok. The menu is i Hungarian only,<br />
but sevice is very friendly. Closed on Sun. Pest<br />
V, Hold u. 13. T: (+36 30) 430 0142, www.kispiac.<br />
eu Map D4<br />
KŐLEVES Hot spot in the heart of the Jewish<br />
district. The restaurantserves filling Hungarian<br />
cuisine with Jewish specialties such as<br />
bakedbeans and goose legs and alsocaters for<br />
people who prefer vegetarian. In the adjacent<br />
garden ruin pub you can get typical pub food.<br />
Pest VII, Kazinczy u. 41. T: (+36 20) 213 5999,<br />
www.koleves.com Map E4<br />
L19 Michelin recommended restaurant which is<br />
part of the modern L19 Design Hotel on the<br />
Buda embankment. Contemporary and traditional<br />
dishes, nice view towards the Danube<br />
and Chain Bridge. Buda I, Lánchíd u. 19, T: (+36<br />
1) 457 1200, www.lanchid19hotel.hu Map C5<br />
Laci! konyha! Sophisticated boutique restaurant<br />
offering traditional Hungarian delicacies<br />
with high quality ingredients in a trendy, industrial<br />
setting. Recommended by the Michelin<br />
Guide. Pest XIII, Hegedűs Gyula u. 56. T: (+36 70)<br />
370 7475, www.lacikonyha.com Map D1<br />
T I M E L E S S K I T C H E N<br />
1 9 8 9<br />
DINING<br />
H - 1 0 5 2 B u d a p e s t ,<br />
V i g a d ó t é r 3 . k i k ö t ő<br />
t e l . : + 3 6 . 1 . 4 1 1 . 0 9 . 3 3<br />
...by the Chain Bridge!<br />
w w w. s p o o n r e s t a u r a n t s . h u<br />
www.<strong>where</strong>traveler.com 25
DINING<br />
MÁK BISTRO A welcoming Michelin recommended<br />
hangout for high-quality haute<br />
cuisine served without pretension. Seasonal<br />
dishes created with artistic flair and extraordinary<br />
Hungarian wines. Closed on Mon. Pest V,<br />
Vigyázó Ferenc u. 4. T: (+36 30) 723 9383, www.<br />
mak.hu Map C4<br />
MÚZEUM Fine cuisine, excellent range of Hungarian<br />
wines, beautiful old fashioned interior.<br />
Closed on Sun. Pest VIII, Múzeum krt. 12. T: (+36<br />
1) 267 0375, www. muzeumkavehaz.hu Map E6<br />
NAGY FATÁL KONYHÁJA FLocated near the main<br />
shopping area of Váci street, this eatery offers<br />
traditional Hungarian food along with grilled<br />
meats prepared in an open kitchen. Pest VI,<br />
Kigyó utca 4, www.nagyfatal.hu Map D6<br />
NEW YORK CAFÉ AND SALON Both are Michelin<br />
recommended and situated in the gloriously<br />
decorated baroque New York palace which is<br />
one of Budapest’s most legendary buildings. You<br />
can go for a coffee or a meal in the restaurant<br />
(modern Hungarian in a grand style).. Pest VII,<br />
Erzsébet krt. 9-11. T: (+36 1) 886 6167, www.newyorkcafe.hu<br />
www.salonrestaurant.hu Map F5<br />
ONYX One of the view restaurants with a<br />
Michelin star, this place is glamorous and ostentatious.<br />
Closed on Sun, booking absolutely<br />
essential. Pest V, Vörösmarty tér 7-8. T: (+36 30)<br />
508 0622, www.onyxrestaurant.hu Map D5<br />
PALACE CAFÉ this restaurant located on the<br />
ground floor of the Novotel hotel serves Hungarian<br />
and French specialties. Pest VIII, Rákóczi<br />
út 43-45. T: (+36 1) 477 5485 Map F5<br />
P2 This lounge restaurant next to the Basilica<br />
offers international and Hungarian specialties,<br />
menus prepared by master chefs, and wines of<br />
select quality. Pest V, Sas u. 9. T: (+36 1) 222 4422,<br />
www.p2budapest.com Map D4<br />
PEPPERS! Featuring a panoramic Danube view<br />
from its raised terrace, this contemporary grill<br />
fuses Hungarian produce with Mediterranean<br />
flavors. Part of the Budapest Marriott Hotel:<br />
Pest V, Apáczai Csere János u. 4. T: (+36 1) 737<br />
7377, www.peppers.hu Map D5<br />
PESTI DISZNÓ Michelin recommended contemporary<br />
bistro serving fresh Hungarian cuisine<br />
and many local wines by the glass. Pest VI,<br />
Nagymező u. 19. T: (+36 1) 951 4061, www.<br />
pestidiszno.hu Map E4<br />
PIERROT Michelin recommended restaurant<br />
with modern Hungarian fine cuisine, carefully<br />
selected wines, a romantic open-air winter<br />
garden, and live piano music in the heart of the<br />
Castle District. Buda I, Fortuna u. 14. T: (+36 1)<br />
375 6971, www.pierrot.hu Map B4<br />
PRESIDENT Michelin recommended restaurant<br />
on top of the hotel with the same name. The<br />
only place with a full view on the magnificent<br />
Jugendstil roof of the Postal Savings Bank, build<br />
by Ődön Lechner. Pest V, Hold u. 3-5, T: (+36 1)<br />
373 8200, www.hotelpresident.hu Map D4<br />
ROBINSON Romantic location on its own island<br />
in a tree-lined pond in the City Park. Light business<br />
lunches, Latin guitar every night. Pest XIV,<br />
in City Park. T: (+36 1) 422 0222, www.robinsonrestaurant.hu<br />
Map G2<br />
SOUL CAFÉ Cosy atmosphere, a mix of Hungarian<br />
and Mediterranean cuisine but always with a<br />
twist, and very reasonably priced. Pest IX, Ráday<br />
u. 11-13. T: (+36 1) 217 6986, www.soulcafe.hu<br />
Map E6<br />
SPINOZA CAFÉ A cozy, romantic, and traditional<br />
Hungarian restaurant with a Jewish touch. Live<br />
piano music nightly and klezmer shows every<br />
Friday evening. Pest VII, Dob u. 15. T: (+36 1) 413<br />
7488, www.spinozacafe.hu Map E5<br />
SPOON CAFÉ & LOUNGE Riverboat restaurant<br />
docked on the Danube Promenade offering<br />
international cuisine and panoramic Budapest<br />
riverfront views. Pest V, moored on the Pest riverbank<br />
by the Chain Bridge. T: (+36 1) 411 0933,<br />
www.spooncafe.hu Map C5<br />
TIGRIS This timelessly elegant Michelin rcommended<br />
spot serves only the freshest ingredients<br />
and finest cuts of meat when preparing<br />
familiar dishes. Closed on Sun, Pest V, Mérleg<br />
u. 10. T: (+36 1) 317 3715, www.tigrisrestaurant.<br />
hu Map D4<br />
TRÓFEA GRILL RESTAURANTS Eat and drink as<br />
much as you like for a fixed price, on three locations<br />
in downtown Buda and Pest, www.trofea.<br />
hu Buda II, Margit krt. 2. T: (+36 1) 438 9090<br />
Map B2; Pest VI, Király u. 30-32. T: (+36 20) 999<br />
8797 Map E4; Pest XIII, Visegrádi u. 50/A. T: (+36<br />
1) 270 0366 Map E1<br />
up&down Modern Hungarian cuisine (some<br />
of it with an interesting Asian infusion) and<br />
simple street-food meals for a quick meal to<br />
be enjoyed on one of the two small terraces<br />
overlooking the square with Central Market<br />
Hall and the river Danube with Gellért Hill. T:<br />
(+36 1) 226 2329. Pest V, Fővám tér 1, Map D6,<br />
www.facebook.com/Upandown<br />
Véndiak A favorite local hangout since 1938 that<br />
offers mdern Hungarian cuisine. In spring and<br />
summer, it has an inviting terrace on University<br />
square. Pest V, Egyetem tér 5, T: (+36 1) 267 0226,<br />
www.vendiaketterem.hu Map E6<br />
Vintage garden This romantic Provencal bistro<br />
is a haven amidst the shabby ruin-pubs. Pest VII,<br />
Dob u. 21. T: (+36 30) 790 6619, www.facebook.<br />
com/vintagegardenbudapest Map E5<br />
InTERNATIONAL<br />
1ST JOHN BULL SPORT PUB This<br />
popular restaurant offers full English<br />
breakfasts and ale on tap. Live sports,<br />
free Wi-Fi. Pest V, Apáczai Csere János<br />
u. 17. T: (+36 1) 338 2168, www.johnbullsportpub.hu<br />
Map C5<br />
ARANY KAVIÁR RESTAURANT Michelin recommended<br />
place for fine dining with a wide<br />
range of top-caliber caviar, excellent seafood<br />
selection, and exquisite Hungarian fresh water<br />
fish selection. It is one of the few restaurants<br />
located at the foot of Castle Hill. Buda I, Ostrom<br />
u. 19. T: (+36 1) 201 6737, www.aranykaviar.hu<br />
Map A3<br />
CHEZ DANIEL RESTAURANT French food cooked<br />
to order with seasonal local ingredients and<br />
fresh daily specials. Pest VI, Szív u. 32. T: (+36 1)<br />
302 4039, www.chezdaniel.hu Map F3<br />
FAUSTO’S Sit in the linen-laid tables in the<br />
restaurant or the more casual, wood-furnished,<br />
Michelin recommended osteria. Menus offer<br />
simple, rustic Italian classics. Closed on Sun..<br />
Pest VII, Dohány u. 3-5. T: (+36 1) 269 6806, www.<br />
fausto.hu Map E5<br />
HUNTER-VADÁSZ<br />
GASTRO&SPORT PUB Fancy good<br />
deer goulash or hot deer stew?<br />
Amazing fine venison dishes and<br />
pub grubs (burgers, fish and chips<br />
etc.). Live sports, free wifi. Pest V,<br />
Podmaniczky tér 4. T: (+36 1) 269<br />
3116 facebook: Vadasz Gastro Pub<br />
Map D4<br />
JACK DOYLE’S Offering the best of traditional<br />
Irish fare married to local Hungarian specialties,<br />
with weekday lunch specials. Global sports<br />
broadcasts. Pest V, Pilvax köz 1-3. T: (+36 1) 796<br />
9009, www.jackdoyles.hu Map D5<br />
KNRDY Stylish New York style steakhouse with<br />
designer furnishings and a street scene mural.<br />
Choose your steak from the display. Pest V,<br />
Oktober 6 u. 15, T: (+36 1) 788 1685, www.knrdy.<br />
com Map D4<br />
MOMOTARO RAMEN Noodles, dim sum and<br />
spicy Szechuanese dishes. They also serve<br />
wonderful soups (ramen) for a very decent<br />
price. The real Chinese stuff so no wonder the<br />
place swarms with Chinese guests. Closed on<br />
Mon. Pest V, Széchenyi u. 16. T: (+ 36 1) 269 3802,<br />
www.momotaroramen.com Map C4<br />
NOBU Michelin rcommended new-style Japanese<br />
restaurant. Yellowtail sashimi with jalapeno<br />
and Alaskan black cod with den miso are just<br />
two of the signiture dishes found on the menu.<br />
Kempinski Hotel Corvinus: Pest V, Erzsébet tér<br />
7-8. T: (+36 1) 429 4242, www.noburestaurants.<br />
com/budapest Map D5<br />
PORCELLINO Exquisite Italian cuisine offered in<br />
an ambience that is sophisticated yet childfriendly.<br />
Buda II, Ady Endre u. 19. T: (+36 1) 886<br />
7880, www.porcellino.hu<br />
PHILIPPE LE BELGE Gourmet Belgian seafood<br />
restaurant, renowned for oysters and mussels.<br />
Closed on Sun and Mon. Pest XIII, Balzac u. 35. T:<br />
(+36 1) 350 0411 Map D2<br />
rickshaw Serving authentic dishes from across<br />
the Orient in an atmosphere that elegantly reflects<br />
the traditional décor of the Far East. Taste<br />
the latest creations of the eatery’s highly qualified<br />
Chinese chef. Open Wed-Sun 6pm-11pm.<br />
Pest VII, Erzsébet krt. 43-49. T: (+36 1) 479 4855,<br />
www.corinthia.com/budapest Map F4<br />
TAJ MAHAL An irresistible selection of Indian fare,<br />
including North and South Indian specialties.<br />
Home deliveries too. Closed on Mon. Pest VI,<br />
Szondi u. 40. T: (+36 1) 301 0447, www.tajmahal.<br />
hu Map E3<br />
with gypsy music<br />
100 ÉVES The “100 Years Old” restaurant is the<br />
oldest in Budapest and in fact dates from 1831.<br />
Traditional Hungarian and international cuisine<br />
26 WHERE BUDAPEST I OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong>
DINING<br />
amidst rustic furnishing. Excellent gypsy music<br />
in the evening hours. Pest V, Piarista u. 2, T: (+36<br />
1) 230 0329, www.100evesetterem.hu, Map D5<br />
DUNACORSO A restaurant on the river promenade<br />
in Pest looking out at Castle Hill. The<br />
kitchen is a mix of traditional Hungarian and<br />
international dishes and there is an outstanding<br />
Gypsy orchestra. Pest V, Vigadó tér 3, T: (+36<br />
1) 318 6362, www.dunacorso.hu Map C5<br />
KÁRPÁTIA Traditional Hungarian food in the<br />
colorfully decorated surroundings of a former<br />
monastery, open since 1877. A very renowned<br />
Gypsy band plays nightly. Pest V, Ferenciek tere<br />
7-8. T: (+36 1) 317 3596, www.karpatia.hu Map D6<br />
KÉHLI Savor local specialties like bone-marrow<br />
soup and pike-perch fillet while being serenaded<br />
by Gypsy musicians at this century-old<br />
restaurant. Buda III, Mókus u. 22. T: (+36 1) 250<br />
4241, www.kehli.hu<br />
ÚJ SIPOS HALÁSZKERT Situated at a charming<br />
square in Old Buda (Óbuda), it offers traditional<br />
Hungarian food and live gypsy music. Buda III,<br />
Fő tér 6, T: (+36 1) 388 8745, www.ujsipos.hu<br />
VÖRÖS POSTAKOCSI Since<br />
1972, the “Red Mail Coach”<br />
restaurant offers authentic<br />
Hungarian cuisine and live<br />
Gypsy music. Pest IX, Ráday u.<br />
15. T: (+36 1) 217 6756, www.<br />
vorospk.com Map E7<br />
Take a shot for a free shot!<br />
hungarianhellkitchen.com<br />
DINING<br />
Hungarian traditions<br />
and tastes in the<br />
heart of Budapest<br />
If you are a lover of grilling,<br />
if you have love the smell and<br />
also the presentation of the<br />
special charcoal grilled food<br />
tasting, you can find it all here!<br />
Make yourself at home!<br />
1052 Budapest,<br />
Kígyó street 4.<br />
(near Ferenciek tere)<br />
+36 1 787 8736<br />
Open: M-Su:<br />
11:00-23:00<br />
Wolf András<br />
Executive Chef<br />
Salon<br />
Restaurant<br />
Boscolo Budapest Hotel<br />
New York Palace<br />
Tel.: +36 1 886 6167<br />
reservation@salonrestaurant.hu<br />
www.salonrestaurant.hu<br />
www.<strong>where</strong>traveler.com 27
ESSENTIALS<br />
This section contains information on getting<br />
around Budapest, plus many tips.<br />
EMBASSIES AND CONSULATES<br />
Austrian Embassy Pest VI, Benczúr u. 16.<br />
T: (+36 1) 479 7010 Map F3<br />
British Embassy Pest V, Harmincad u. 6.<br />
T: (+36 1) 266 2888 Map D5<br />
Canadian Embassy Buda II, Ganz u. 12 14. T:<br />
(+36 1) 392 3360 Map B3<br />
Croat Consulate Pest VI, Munkácsy Mihály u.<br />
15. T: (+36 1) 354 1315 Map F2<br />
dutch Embassy Buda II, Kapás u. 6-12.<br />
T: (+36 1) 336 6300 Map B3<br />
French Embassy Pest VI, Lendvay u. 27.<br />
T: (+36 1) 374 1100 Map G2<br />
German Embassy Buda I, Úri u. 64 66.<br />
T: (+36 1) 488 3500 Map H3<br />
israeli Embassy Buda II, Fullánk u. 8.<br />
T: (+36 1) 392 6200<br />
Romanian Embassy Pest XIV, Thököly út 72.<br />
T: (+36 1) 384 7689 (near Map H3)<br />
Russian Embassy Pest VI, Bajza u. 35.<br />
T: (+36 1) 302 5230 Map F3<br />
Serbian Embassy Pest VII, Dózsa György út<br />
92/A. T: (+36 1) 322 9838 Map G3<br />
Slovak Embassy Pest XIV, Stefánia út 22.<br />
T: (+36 1) 460 9011 (near Map H3)<br />
Slovenian Embassy Buda II, Cseppkő u. 68. T:<br />
(+36 1) 438 5600<br />
Swiss Embassy Pest XIV, Stefánia út 107.<br />
T: (+36 1) 460 7040 Map H3<br />
Ukrainian Embassy Buda XIV, Stefánia út 77. T:<br />
(+36 1) 422 4120 Map H3<br />
United States Embassy Pest V, Szabadság tér<br />
12. T: (+36 1) 475 4400 Map D4<br />
USEFUL INFORMATION<br />
LOST AND FOUND For articles lost on public<br />
transportation, go to Pest VII, Akácfa u. 18.<br />
T: (+36 1) 258 4636 Map F5<br />
MEDICAL EMERGENCIES Call (+36 1) 311 1666<br />
for an English or German speaker, or 104 for<br />
Hungarian.<br />
24 HOUR PHARMACIES Will dispense routine<br />
medications without a prescription. Pest VI,<br />
Teréz körút 41 (T: (+36 1) 311 4439), Buda II,<br />
Frankel Leó u. 22 (T: (+36 1) 212 4406), Buda XII,<br />
Alkotás út 1/B (T: (+36 1) 355 4691)<br />
POLICE CRIME PREVENTION<br />
Like in any major metropolis, visitors should take<br />
precautions to protect themselves from criminal<br />
activity. Do not leave belongings unattended, or<br />
leave valuables in your car, and keep an eye on<br />
your bags. In case you do become a crime victim,<br />
please report the incident to the nearest police<br />
station as soon as possible, or go directly to<br />
the nearest hotel, <strong>where</strong> the staff can help you<br />
file a report promptly with the proper authorities<br />
closest to the scene of the crime. Otherwise,<br />
Budapest’s emergency phone numbers are 107<br />
and 112, or log onto www.police.hu/brfk for a<br />
complete list of police stations.<br />
DIRECTORY ASSISTANCE Dial 198.<br />
INTERNATIONAL OPERATOR Dial 104<br />
or (+36 1) 311 1666.<br />
POST OFFICES The post offices at Keleti<br />
(Map G4) and Nyugati (Map D-E3) stations are<br />
open every day from 7am-9pm. To send a letter<br />
via airmail, ask for légiposta (LAY ghee posh ta).<br />
Telephone codes Budapest landlines (+36 1),<br />
T-Mobile: (+36 30), Telenor: (+36 20), Vodafone:<br />
(+36 70)<br />
looking around<br />
ART MARKET – page 5<br />
NAVIGATING BUDAPEST<br />
The city of Budapest clusters around the great Danube River, which<br />
slices it in half on a curving north-south axis. The hilly west bank<br />
is Buda, the flat east bank is Pest – two totally separate towns until<br />
1873, when they were united to form today’s capital city. Modern<br />
Budapest is divided into 23 districts (called “kerület”), each designated<br />
by a Roman numeral. The two districts you will spend most<br />
time in are Buda I (Castle Hill, Buda’s old medieval center) and Pest<br />
V (downtown Pest, a robust, confident, turn-of-the-century area<br />
containing the Parliament, banks and financial centers, as well as the<br />
best shopping). See our detailed map on pages 38-39 for a reliable<br />
city reference.<br />
TOURIST INFO OFFICES Tourinform offices are<br />
found around the city. The most useful is at<br />
Deák Ferenc Square next to the McDonald’s.<br />
Open daily 8am-8pm. Pest V, Sütő u. 2, T: (+36<br />
1) 438 8080 Map D5. Another helpful office<br />
is at Pest VI, Liszt Ferenc tér 11. Open daily<br />
noon-8pm. T: (+36 1) 322 4098 Map E4. Tourist<br />
information offices are also open daily at Budapest<br />
Airport. At all of these locations you can<br />
purchase the Budapest Card, which covers all<br />
public transportation and provides discounted<br />
access to major museums, spas, restaurants,<br />
and attractions. www.budapestinfo.hu<br />
PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION Budapest has an<br />
extensive public transportation system with<br />
buses, trams, trolleys, and four metro lines.<br />
Most lines operate daily from 4am to about<br />
midnight, trams 4 and 6 operate all night as<br />
do several night buses. Tickets are available<br />
at ticket machines (also English) and booths<br />
(“pénztár”) in metro underpasses. To validate<br />
a ticket (not necessary for daily, long-term<br />
passes, or season tickets), insert it into the<br />
orange or red boxes at the metro entrances, or<br />
aboard buses and trams. Tickets are not always<br />
checked on buses and trams, but ticket inspectors,<br />
who identify themselves with armbands<br />
or ID cards, may board the vehicles to check<br />
that passengers have validated tickets. Fines<br />
can be paid on the spot. See www.bkk.hu<br />
for more details. There are single and section<br />
tickets, as well as a discount book (10 single<br />
tickets), a 24-hour or 72-hour card (valid on all<br />
forms of public transportation), and seven-day<br />
, two-week and one-month passes.<br />
photo: László Mészáros<br />
28 WHERE BUDAPEST I OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong>
ESSENTIALS<br />
My Favorite Budapest...<br />
TRAIN STATIONS<br />
The four main train stations (“pályaudvar”)<br />
are Nyugati (Map D-E3); Keleti (Map G4); Déli<br />
(Map A4), and Kelenföldi (Off Map). All are<br />
accessible by metro. Contact MÁV Hungarian<br />
Railways Information for foreign and domestic<br />
timetables. T: (+36 1) 444 4499 or (+36 40) 49<br />
4949, www.mav-start.hu<br />
TAXIS<br />
Budapest taxis are famous for taking people<br />
for a ride in more ways than one. Always insist<br />
on using one of the companies listed below.<br />
If you must hail a taxi, identify a reputable<br />
taxi company by the car’s lights, signage, and<br />
drivers’ identification, and ask for a price estimate<br />
before entering the cab. All legitimate<br />
Budapest taxi rates are are now standardized<br />
for every taxi company.<br />
6x6: (+36 1) 666 6666, www.6x6taxi.hu (lights<br />
on taxi roofs are shaped like gambling dice);<br />
Budapest Taxi: (+36 1) 777 7777, www.budapesttaxi.hu;<br />
City Taxi: (+36 1) 211 1111, www.citytaxi.hu;<br />
Fő Taxi: (+36 1) 222 2222, www.fotaxi.hu;<br />
Max Taxi: (+36 1) 222 2233, www.maxtaxi.hu;<br />
Taxi 4: (+36 1) 444 4444, www.taxi4.hu;<br />
Tele 5 Taxi: (+36 1) 555 5555, www.taxi5.hu<br />
RENTAL CARS<br />
Europcar: With a simple booking system and a<br />
great selection of vehicles, Europcar is the perfect<br />
choice for your Budapest Airport Terminal<br />
2b car rental. We have hourly, daily, short term,<br />
weekly, monthly and long term deals available<br />
in this location. T: (+36 1) 421 8370 www.<br />
europcar.com/location/hungary/budapest/<br />
budapest-airport-terminal-2B<br />
Fox Autorent: A dependable and reliable car<br />
rental company that usually offers specials.<br />
Service includes unlimited mileage, AC, insurance,<br />
and airport and home delivery. T: (+36 1)<br />
382 9000, www.fox-autorent.com<br />
Hertz Rent-A-Car: International Reservation<br />
Center Open Mon-Fri 8am-5pm. Vecsés, Hertz<br />
u. 2. T: (+36 1) 296 0999 or 296 0991; Budapest<br />
Airport Terminal 2B Open daily 8am to 10pm.<br />
T: (+36 1) 296 7171; www.hertz.hu<br />
Sixt Hungary: Operating out of a facility in<br />
the central buildin of Budapest Airport, the<br />
SkyCourt, this car rental agency offers tailormade<br />
deals for its customers. Open Mon-Fri<br />
7am-7pm and Sat-Sun 8am-6pm. T: (+36 1) 451<br />
4227, www.sixt.hu<br />
bicycle rentalS<br />
Ask your hotel concierge for information<br />
about bike rental service to deliver bicycles<br />
directly to your hotel.<br />
Public bikes:<br />
There are green Bubi bikes at 112 stations<br />
city-wide. They are pretty heavy but the first<br />
30 minutes of each use are free of charge.<br />
Passes valid from 24 hours. Registration is<br />
required, see molbubi.bkk.hu<br />
Private bike rentals:<br />
Bike-and-Relax: tours and rental, Andrássy<br />
Street 7, www.bike-and-relax.com Map D4<br />
BikeBase: Podmaniczky utca 19. (near Nyugati<br />
station), www.bikebase.hu Map D3<br />
HiBike: Apáczai Csere János u. 3, www.<br />
hi-bike.hu Map D5<br />
BOAT SERVICES<br />
Several small public transport boats are going<br />
up and down the river during day light hours,<br />
docking at stations in Pest and Buda alternately<br />
(see Map). The time schedule (www.bkk.hu/<br />
en/timetables and click the boat services icon)<br />
is subject to change depending on weather<br />
and water level conditions.<br />
AIRPORT Transportation<br />
The Budapest Airport has two international<br />
terminals, Terminal 2A and 2B. See www.bud.<br />
hu/english for complete airport information.<br />
Airport Minibus Service miniBUD: A shared<br />
ride service that picks passengers up at any<br />
address in Budapest. For travel to hotels or<br />
within the city center, a ride costs HUF 3,900<br />
per person one way, and HUF 6,900 for a return<br />
trip. Arrange your ride in advance. T: (+36<br />
1) 55 00000, www.minibud.hu/en<br />
Airport Taxi Service: Multiple taxi companies<br />
drive Budapest Airport passengers to and from<br />
all city destinations. They offer fixed maximum<br />
prices depending on the distance traveled<br />
from the airport, with HUF 4,500 being an average<br />
price for an airport to city center transfer.<br />
Public Transportation: There is a direct bus<br />
(no.100E) every half hour between the airport<br />
and Deák square. Another bus (200E) takes<br />
you to the ‘blue line’ metro (Kőbánya-Kispest)<br />
that goes into the city.<br />
WHAT MAKES HUNGARY’S TOP<br />
HOSPITALITY PROFESSIONALS DELIGHTED<br />
TO LIVE IN BUDAPEST? CONCIERGE<br />
BALÁZS NAGY OF THE FOUR SEASONS<br />
HOTEL GRESHAM PALACE SHARES A FEW<br />
OF THE FEATURES HE CHERISHES MOST<br />
FROM THROUGHOUT THE HUNGARIAN<br />
METROPOLIS.<br />
… BAR When guests are looking for a nice<br />
place to drink, I always recommend the<br />
St. Andrea Wine & Skybar. St. Andrea is<br />
a popular winery in the countryside, and<br />
recently they have opened a wine and<br />
gourmet rooftop bar in Budapest. The latter<br />
is located in Váci street and offers sweeping<br />
views of the city center, including the Bazilika<br />
and the Budapest Eye. Apart from their own<br />
quality wines, they also offer a wide variety<br />
of excellent cocktails. Guests can also enjoy<br />
snacks with their drinks while marveling at<br />
the panorama view.<br />
… SEASONAL ACTIVITY I am a keen biker<br />
and love to cycle when I have the chance.<br />
One of my favorite routes is in the City Park,<br />
which is beautiful in the autumn. There is<br />
so much to do and see here, I love to visit<br />
the Vajdahunyad castle and especially<br />
its lookout towers. It is one of the lesser<br />
known attractions (the tower is part of the<br />
Agricultural Museum), and offers a unique<br />
view of the city. After the bike ride, make sure<br />
to visit Széchenyi Bath for a relaxing dip in<br />
the hot, curative water.<br />
…MUSEUM Since the Museum of Fine Arts<br />
is closed for renovation, I like to recommend<br />
the Műcsarnok, which is also located next to<br />
Heroes’ Square. They have many interesting<br />
temporary exhibitions, including Sebastião<br />
Salgado’s Genesis exhibit. I will definitely<br />
check this out, I am a big fan of his photos.<br />
Balázs Nagy is a member of<br />
the prestigious Clefs d’Or<br />
organization of professional<br />
concierges, who strive to<br />
accommodate every guest’s<br />
request, as their motto states, “In Service<br />
Through Friendship”.<br />
www.<strong>where</strong>traveler.com 29
MAPS<br />
Széchenyi<br />
tér<br />
Radisson Blu<br />
Béke Hotel<br />
Continental Hotel<br />
Boscolo Budapest<br />
30 WHERE BUDAPEST I OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong>
MAPS<br />
II. János Pál pápa<br />
tér<br />
II. JÁNOS PÁL PÁPA TÉR<br />
FŐVÁM TÉR<br />
Fraser<br />
Residence<br />
SZENT GELLÉRT TÉR<br />
Széll Kálmán<br />
tér<br />
SZÉLL K.<br />
TÉR<br />
Leonardo Hotel<br />
Budapest<br />
MÓRICZ ZSIGMOND KÖRTÉR<br />
Blaha L. tér<br />
Széll Kálmán tér<br />
Astoria<br />
ÚJBUDA-KÖZPONT<br />
Pillangó utca<br />
Népstadion<br />
Keleti pályaudvar<br />
II. János Pál<br />
pápa tér<br />
Vörösmarty<br />
tér Ferenciek tere<br />
Kálvin tér<br />
Rákóczi tér<br />
Corvin<br />
negyed<br />
Fővám tér<br />
Szent Gellért tér<br />
Ferenc körút<br />
Nagyvárad tér<br />
Népliget<br />
Ecseri út<br />
Pöttyös utca<br />
Klinikák<br />
Közvágóhíd<br />
Boráros<br />
tér<br />
Beöthy u.<br />
Kén u.<br />
Móricz Zsigmond körtér<br />
Újbuda-központ<br />
Bikás park<br />
Kelenföld vasútállomás<br />
INDEX OF MAIN STREETS<br />
II. János Pál pápa tér G5<br />
Alkotmány utca C3-D3<br />
Alkotás utca A4-5<br />
Állatkerti körút G1-2<br />
Andrássy út D4-G6<br />
Apáczai Cs. J. utca C5-D5<br />
Arany János utca C4-D4<br />
Attila út<br />
B5-C6<br />
Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út D3-5<br />
Balassi Bálint utca C2-3<br />
Baross tér<br />
G4<br />
Batthyány tér B3<br />
Bécsi kapu tér A3-4<br />
Belgrád rakpart C5-D6<br />
Bem rakpart C2-5<br />
Bem tér<br />
B2<br />
Benczúr utca F3-G2<br />
Blaha Lujza tér F5<br />
Clark Ádám tér C5<br />
Deák Ferenc tér D5<br />
Deák Ferenc utca D5<br />
Dísz tér<br />
B4<br />
Dohány utca E5-G4<br />
Dózsa György út F1-H4<br />
Döbrentei tér C6<br />
Erzsébet körút E4-F5<br />
Erzsébet tér D5<br />
Falk Miksa utca C3-D2<br />
Ferenc körút F7<br />
Ferenciek tere D5<br />
Fő utca B2-5<br />
Fortuna utca B4<br />
Harmincad utca D5<br />
Hess András tér B4<br />
Hősök tere<br />
G2<br />
Horánszky utca F6<br />
Irányi utca<br />
D6<br />
Jókai tér<br />
E4<br />
József Attila utca C5-D5<br />
József körút F5-7<br />
József nádor tér D5<br />
Kálvin tér<br />
E6<br />
Károly körút D5-E5<br />
Károlyi Mihály utca D6<br />
Kazinczy utca E4-5<br />
Kecskeméti utca E6<br />
Király utca D5-F3<br />
Klauzál tér<br />
E4<br />
Kossuth tér<br />
C3<br />
Kossuth Lajos utca D5-E5<br />
Krisztina körút B5-C6<br />
Lehel tér<br />
E1<br />
Liszt Ferenc tér E4<br />
Madách tér D5<br />
Március 15. tér D6<br />
Margit körút B2<br />
Múzeum körút E5-6<br />
Nyugati tér D3<br />
Oktogon<br />
E4<br />
Olof Palme sétány G2-A3<br />
Országház utca A4-B4<br />
Petőfi Sándor utca D5<br />
Rákóczi tér<br />
F6<br />
Rákóczi út E5-G5<br />
Semmelweis utca D5-E5<br />
Szabadság tér D4<br />
Szent Gellért tér D7<br />
Szent Gellért rakpart<br />
C6-D7<br />
Szentháromság tér B4<br />
Szent István körút C2-D3<br />
Széchenyi tér C4<br />
Széll Kálmán tér A3<br />
Táncsics Mihály utca B4<br />
Teréz körút D3-E3<br />
Üllői út<br />
E6-G7<br />
Váci út<br />
D3-E1<br />
Váci utca D5-6<br />
Városligeti fasor F3-G3<br />
Vigadó tér C5-D5<br />
Vörösmarty tér D5<br />
Wesselényi utca E5-F4<br />
Ybl Miklós tér C5<br />
www.<strong>where</strong>traveler.com 31
CENTRAL MARKET<br />
The brightly colored tiled roof of this huge<br />
bazaar shelters a cornucopia of food stands,<br />
offering everything from fresh produce to<br />
pálinka brandy. Downstairs, vendors sell fresh<br />
fish, game, and – very Hungarian – all sorts<br />
of pickled and fermented products. Upstairs,<br />
vendors offer traditional gifts like woodworks,<br />
fine lace, and other souvenirs. Pest IX, Vámház<br />
krt. 1-3. Map E7<br />
Where It’s At Budapest<br />
GREAT SYNAGOGUE<br />
One of Europe’s largest and richly decorated<br />
Jewish temples was built in the 1850s with<br />
a fusion of Moorish and Byzantine styles.<br />
It holds nearly 3,000 worshippers and<br />
represents a typically Hungarian strand of<br />
the Jewish faith, called neologue. It has a<br />
pipe organ (that was played by Franz Liszt<br />
and Emile Saint-Saëns), which is very unusual<br />
for synagogues. The west wing houses a<br />
museum, and there are Holocaust memorials<br />
in the courtyards. Pest VII, Dohány u. 2. Map E5<br />
PARLIAMENT<br />
This neo-gothic palace was built in 1896 for a<br />
country more than twice the current size and<br />
still ruled by counts, lords and princes. It is the<br />
most expensive building ever constructed<br />
in Hungary, decorated with lots of marble,<br />
40 kilograms of gold leaf, as well as statues,<br />
paintings and other works by the best artists<br />
of the day. The central dome houses the<br />
crown of King Stephen. Pest V, Kossuth Lajos tér<br />
1, Map C3, www.parliament.hu<br />
ROYAL PALACE<br />
Several castle incarnations stood on this<br />
oft-besieged hilltop, the seat of kings and<br />
emperors or their representatives. The<br />
current green-domed version is a post-war<br />
reconstruction that was never occupied<br />
by royalty. It houses several museums and<br />
its courtyards are also used for festivals.<br />
Wonderful views over the Danube and Pest.<br />
Buda I, Castle Hill. Map C5<br />
NATIONAL MUSEUM<br />
This imposing neoclassical building houses<br />
an archeological exhibition (prehistory to 800<br />
AD) and an exhibition covering the period<br />
from the founding of Hungary to modern<br />
times (mostly in Hungarian). There is a story<br />
that the 1848 uprising against the autocratic<br />
Habsburg emperor started with the reading<br />
of a poem on the steps of this very building,<br />
but that might be an urban legend. Pest VIII,<br />
Múzeum krt. 14-16. Map E6<br />
HEROES’ SQUARE<br />
Budapest’s premier national ceremony<br />
site is dominated by the Millenary<br />
Monument, with statues of the seven<br />
headmen of the Hungarian tribes<br />
that, according to modern myth,<br />
conquered the Hungarian lands<br />
in 896. They pose at the foot<br />
of a column with Archangel<br />
Gabriel on the top and in<br />
front of a semicircular<br />
colonnade bearing<br />
statues of historical<br />
figures. Pest XIV, Hősök<br />
tere. Map G2<br />
32 WHERE London BUDAPEST I JANUARY I OCTOBER 2013 <strong>2017</strong>
PASSION IS OUR<br />
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OPENING HOURS<br />
(closed on Mondays)<br />
Lunch time: 12pm - 3pm<br />
Dinner time: 6pm - 12am<br />
H-1015 BUDAPEST, OSTROM U.19.<br />
WWW.ARANYKAVIAR.HU<br />
RESERVATION:<br />
(+36 1) 201-6737<br />
(+36 30) 685-6000<br />
reservation@aranykaviar.hu
THE MOST POPULAR ALL YOU CAN EAT AND DRINK<br />
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Weekdays Dinner (Monday-Thursday):<br />
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