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212-PAGES<br />

AND IT’S FREE!<br />

DOMESTIC<br />

DEPARTURES<br />

SYDNEY’S NORTHERN BEACHES ...P112<br />

ONE MAN’S QUEST TO GET<br />

BACK ON BOARD ...P60<br />

INTERVIEW<br />

BEN OXENBOULD ...P42<br />

THE MAGAZINE FOR THOSE WHO LOVE TO SURF<br />

ISSUE #8 NOV/DEC <strong>2011</strong>


SINCE 1971<br />

TAKE A VIRTUAL TOUR OF<br />

THE SHOP WITH OUR ONLINE<br />

VIDEO WALK-THROUGH<br />

TEAM RIDER CHAD GIBSON<br />

ALL PHOTOS BY JACOB LAMBERT


GOODTIME SURF & SAIL<br />

29 IPSWICH ROAD, WOOLLOONGABBA, BRISBANE<br />

07 3391 8588<br />

WWW.GOODTIME.COM.AU INFO@GOODTIME.COM.AU<br />

JOIN US ON FACEBOOK<br />

MAKE THE MOST OF SUMMER!<br />

COME SEE GAIL, KARLA THE PUPPY<br />

AND THE GANG AT THE GABBA TODAY


DETAILS & THINGS<br />

WHERE TO PICK SMORGASBOARDER UP<br />

Quality surf stores, shapers and cool cafes on the coast of Queensland,<br />

New South Wales, Victoria, South Australia and Tasmania. For a full list<br />

of distributors, visit the directory in the back of the mag or just get to your<br />

local surf shop and talk to some real people, in the flesh. If you see a local<br />

store advertising, please support them! They’ll also have the lion’s share<br />

of mags in your area. smorgasboarder is published six times a year.<br />

CAN’T GET THERE? SUBSCRIBE<br />

If you can’t get to a store, have smorgasboarder delivered to<br />

your door. The mag’s still free, but Australia Post need to get paid.<br />

$18 IN AUSTRALIA GETS YOU SIX EDITIONS.<br />

Sign up at www.smorgasboarder.com.au. It’ll arrive<br />

every two months. Back issues are available for $5 per copy.<br />

THE COVER SHOT<br />

Bluesnapper’s Alex Marks catches Northern Beaches local<br />

Tim Taplin taking time out from his day-job of designing for<br />

O’Neill. For more on Alex, see Page 146.<br />

BOYS & GIRLS OF SMORGASBOARDER<br />

LOTS OF STUFF & ADVERTISING<br />

Dave Swan dave@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

0401 345 201<br />

SYDNEY STUFF<br />

Ben Horvath<br />

ben@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

0401 362 788<br />

LOTS OF STUFF & DESIGN<br />

Mark Chapman mark@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

0400 875 884<br />

SOUTH AUSTRALIAN STUFF<br />

James Ellis james@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

0410 175 552<br />

STUFF, ACCOUNTS & EVERYTHING ELSE<br />

Louise Gough advertising@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

MORE DESIGN STUFF: Helen Chapman & Dean Slockee<br />

PROOFING, TEST STUFF & STUNTS: Gus Brown<br />

CONTRIBUTORS<br />

Particular thanks to Aimee Sics, Garth Caldwell, Richard Kotch, Jordie<br />

Brown, Simon Kettle, Matt Mullens, Joel Larwood, Ben Roberts,<br />

Pat Quirk, Clayton Beatty, Alistair Lawson, Matthew Cheetham and<br />

Michael Jahn for their writing talent in this edition and Alex Marks,<br />

Joel Coleman, Ian Bird, Jules Phillips, Matt Dunbar, Mark ‘Crumpet’<br />

Taylor, James McMillan, Grant Molony, Colin Sakoff, Danicia Olsson,<br />

Ian Morton and all the amazing reader talent for the great surf photos<br />

to drool over.<br />

Ideas & submissions: editorial@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

WWW.SMORGASBOARDER.COM.AU<br />

smorgasboarder is published by Huge C Media Pty Ltd<br />

ABN 30944673055. All information is correct at time of going to<br />

press. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors in<br />

articles or advertisements, or unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or<br />

illustrations. The opinions and words of the authors do not necessarily<br />

represent those of the publisher. All rights reserved. Reproduction in<br />

part or whole is strictly prohibited without prior permission.<br />

We print with Pep Central<br />

and Craft Inprint Group, an<br />

environmentally aware and<br />

committed printer whose business<br />

is founded upon the principles of<br />

minimising waste and maximising<br />

recycling. Nice work.<br />

6 jul/aug <strong>2011</strong>


nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

7


8 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


INSIDE THIS ISSUE<br />

28<br />

34<br />

XMAS GIFT GUIDE<br />

Cool ideas for under<br />

the Christmas tree for<br />

that special surfer<br />

INLAND EXPLORER<br />

One young SUPer<br />

prepares to paddle<br />

four huge rivers<br />

FEATURE INTERVIEW<br />

42<br />

52<br />

78<br />

88<br />

CAUGHT INSIDE<br />

We chat to the star of<br />

the scariest surf movie<br />

you’re likely to see<br />

SURVIVOR SPEAKS<br />

It’s one year since a<br />

devastating tsunami hit<br />

the Mentawai Islands<br />

CENTRAL SNAPS<br />

Read all about Grant<br />

Molony, Central Coast<br />

surf photographer<br />

FREE THINKERS<br />

We take the road less<br />

travelled with some<br />

leftfield surf innovators<br />

ALL THE USUAL BITS<br />

THE LATEST<br />

14 Feedback & Reader Photos<br />

26 News & Community<br />

60 Everyday locals and their tales<br />

TRAVEL<br />

104 Hidden gems of Padang<br />

112 Sydney’s Northern Beaches<br />

GEAR<br />

153 Getting art onto surfboards<br />

152 Over 100 new board designs!<br />

180 Classic skateboards<br />

190 Test everything<br />

CLOSEOUT<br />

195 A bit of history<br />

202 Fitness & training<br />

207 Relax<br />

182<br />

GOING SIDEWAYS<br />

SKATEBOARD FEATURE:<br />

The philosophy of flying<br />

down a hill on wheels<br />

WOO<br />

HOO!<br />

196<br />

SUMMER FASHION<br />

Look sharp: Summer’s<br />

here, so get a heads up<br />

on some new gear.<br />

Up, up and not away!!! A little less<br />

Superman and a bit more super<br />

entertaining - this is what happens<br />

when you wax up your stick with a<br />

bar of soap. No, he didn’t land it.<br />

This classic sequence captured by<br />

Chris Munro. See more of his snaps<br />

at www.redhotshotz.com<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

9


JAYSCHMITZERPHOTO<br />

SHELLHARBOUR<br />

SURF & SKATE<br />

PROVIDING SMILE GENERATING EQUIPMENT.<br />

SURFERS DETAILS<br />

BOARD // BROWN DOGG TADPOLE<br />

DECKGRIP // DAKINE & CREATURES<br />

FIN SYSTEM // FCS<br />

LEG ROPE // OCEAN & EARTH<br />

WETSUIT // WEST & XCEL<br />

HEADGEAR // GATH<br />

TIMEKEEPING // NIXON<br />

CURRENT MENTAL STATE // LATE FOR WORK AND AT THIS POINT DOESN’T CARE.<br />

SHELLHARBOUR SURF & SKATE // Addison Street, Shellharbour Village NSW // PHONE: 02 4295 3373<br />

10 jul/aug <strong>2011</strong>


YES, IT’S THAT TIME AGAIN!<br />

It’s almost Christmas and we’re excited. That<br />

means it’s almost time off with friends and<br />

family. It means it’s almost time to go to the<br />

beach during the middle of the week without<br />

having to pull a sickie. It’s almost time to go<br />

camping out in the middle of nowhere to surf<br />

that little hidden spot only you and your dad<br />

know about. The place he took you to as a kid<br />

and you’ve been to every Christmas since, and<br />

the place you’ll take your kids to when they’re<br />

old enough to join their dad too.<br />

Best of all though, it means it’s almost time<br />

for everyone to get into the spirit of giving -<br />

and you know we love delivering on that.<br />

During this past year we’ve read your emails,<br />

spoken to you on the phone and chatted to<br />

you in surf stores along the coast. We’ve<br />

listened to what you’ve enjoyed and what you<br />

want to see more of. So this edition, we’ve<br />

given more space than ever to the surfboard<br />

and shaper profile pages, to showcase the art<br />

and work of over fifty independent Australian<br />

shapers and provide you with a huge guide to<br />

help plan your own Christmas pressie.<br />

We’re also giving you more interviews with<br />

everyday surfers like yourself. We’re giving<br />

you more on surfboard design. And we’re<br />

giving you more reading than ever before<br />

in our biggest edition so far. But we’re not<br />

big-upping ourselves in any way. The most<br />

important thing we have to give is thanks. To<br />

you, to the writers and photographers and to<br />

the hardworking small businesses that are<br />

supporting us and making it possible.<br />

Support these guys - your local businesses! If<br />

you love getting this mag, then let them know<br />

you’ve seen them in here. Without them, we<br />

wouldn’t be able to do this for you.<br />

As to smorgasboarder, we’ve finally done<br />

some t-shirts! Check them out in the<br />

Christmas Gift Ideas on page 28. If you like<br />

‘em, order them at our website. At 30 bucks<br />

they make great Christmas gifts, as does a<br />

subscription - the gift that keeps giving.<br />

Finally, we’re pleased to say that our<br />

smorgasboarder Christmas party won’t<br />

have to be just me, Dave and a Red Rooster<br />

chicken this year. Over the past few months,<br />

Louise - our Girl Friday - has really become<br />

a permanent fixture around the office. She<br />

keeps us in coffee and keeps us organised<br />

when we’ve worked through yet another night<br />

on deadline.<br />

Plus, we’ve been very fortunate to have a<br />

further helping hand from James Ellis and<br />

Ben Horvath with distribution, advertising and<br />

editorial - James in South Australia and Ben<br />

in Sydney’s surrounds.<br />

James is a down-to-earth, proud crow-eater<br />

who’s travelled, resided and surfed all states<br />

of Australia and NZ. He freelances for various<br />

outfits, whilst running two personal ventures.<br />

Ben is a committed Sydney surfer with a<br />

background in surf media. Formerly editor of<br />

Coastalwatch.com, he published Underground<br />

Surf Magazine, has written for a host of surf<br />

mags and still provides daily surf reports for<br />

The Telegraph and Coastalwatch.<br />

But for now, enjoy your two months worth of<br />

free reading and make the most of the lead up<br />

to Christmas. We wish you and your families<br />

all the best and hope you all get a few good<br />

waves along the way too!<br />

Mark<br />

MAIN: James Ellis, screaming down the line in SA<br />

INSET: Ben Horvath in the shade. Photo: Bouma<br />

july/aug <strong>2011</strong><br />

11


LADIES FIRST<br />

Little<br />

Ms.<br />

Versatile<br />

WE LOVE NIKKI. NOT CONTENT<br />

WITH ONE BOARD, SHE’S GAME TO<br />

GIVE IT ALL A GO - SURFING, SKATING,<br />

SANDBOARDING... THE WORKS. WORDS: PETER HOGG<br />

Nikki-Rose Quinlan is a young lady<br />

that is as talented on a board as she<br />

is beautiful in her part-time job as a<br />

model for Hive Swimwear.<br />

“I LIKE THE BEACH<br />

BUT I LOVE THE<br />

CEMENT MORE!”<br />

While she tears it up on pretty much<br />

any board you give her, she has some<br />

serious aspirations to be a contender<br />

in major streetstyle skateboard<br />

competitions in Australia. Nikki-Rose<br />

lives and breathes skating. She loves<br />

the flow of skateboarding and loves<br />

skate culture. After all, skating is<br />

now her life.<br />

Nikki-Rose started skateboarding<br />

5 years ago at the age of 17 and<br />

she quickly became a regular at the<br />

Coolum Beach skatepark. Having<br />

skills in the water too, she found<br />

herself modelling bikinis for Hive<br />

Swimwear, who specialise in<br />

functional swimwear ‘that stays on.’<br />

“I really enjoy working with Hive. I<br />

have been part of their action and<br />

lifestyle imagery since 2005. I’m a<br />

clean-cut person with an appreciation<br />

for fitness, health and fun, which<br />

fits in well with them. Just recently<br />

we had a great shoot where I had<br />

to sandboard and ride a FIIK electric<br />

skateboard on the beach... like a Mad<br />

Max movie scene. The video is on<br />

youtube, and it’s hot.”<br />

Nikki-Rose - also a team<br />

rider for the Boardstore - has big<br />

plans for 2012.<br />

“I want to be more competitive<br />

in major Aussie comps including<br />

Just Another Female Contest in<br />

Melbourne. I know that I have to<br />

progress my repertoire. Over the next<br />

few months I will move to the Gold<br />

Coast and master some bigger spins<br />

and clean front and back-side airs.”<br />

It must be daunting dropping into<br />

some of those big bowls?<br />

“My mental skill set is getting<br />

better. I can put fear aside by<br />

focussing on the task at hand. In<br />

saying this, I have come unstuck a<br />

few times as all skaters do. Hard<br />

work and perseverance has helped<br />

me overcome my injuries. There is<br />

nothing<br />

better than<br />

doing a well-executed,<br />

difficult trick. It keeps me going.”<br />

What do you do in your down time?<br />

“When I take a break from skating<br />

I do like to surf. It’s good crosstraining.<br />

I also have to spend some<br />

time on my academic interests<br />

involving animal sciences.”<br />

Keep an eye out for Nikki-Rose at<br />

upcoming skate comps - we’re sure<br />

you’ll find her mastering those big<br />

airs she after.<br />

12 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


Nikki shows off her many skills on just<br />

about every board you can think of,<br />

both as a representative for Boardstore<br />

(above) and a model for Hive Swimwear.<br />

www.hiveswimwear.com<br />

www.boardstore.com.au<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

13


SURFECTION • MICKEY RAT SURF • SHOP TAHITI • SURFRIDER TAHITI • SALTWATER<br />

WINE • MARINE CORAIL • EVOLUTION • ATOLL ADVENTURES • SAVAII SURFARIS • LOCAL<br />

MOTION • GOLDEN BREED • GLOBAL SURFTAG • FAITH • SALTWATER SURF SCHOOL •<br />

TRENT MUNRO SURF • ACADEMY • CHEYNE HORAN SURF SCHOOL • LEE WINKLER SURF<br />

SCHOOL • SOULRIDER SURF SCHOOL • SURF CAMP AUSTRALIA • MARGARET RIVER SURF<br />

SCHOOL • PORT STEPHENS SURF SCHOOL • ASP EVENTS • LE-BA BOARDRIDERS • BAR<br />

BEACH BOARDRIDERS • MERIMBULA BOARDRIDERS • YURAYGIR BOARDRIDERS • ALBANY<br />

BOARDRIDERS • SCOTT HEAD BOARDRIDERS • HALF TIDE BOARDRIDERS • EVANS HEAD<br />

LONGBOARDERS • NSW LONGBOARDERS • LENNOX LONGBOARDERS • BALLINA MALIBU<br />

Get your<br />

personalised<br />

gear printed by<br />

Triple-X today!<br />

HERE<br />

Contact us for<br />

a FREE custom<br />

order quote for<br />

your personalised<br />

RASHIES<br />

WINNER<br />

XXX! MOMENT<br />

HIGH FLYING ROOF SURFING!<br />

“Not in the ocean I know, but going about my day job of laying a hot colorbond<br />

roof one arvo, we had a stack of loose sheets sitting on the roof. Yes, I knew not<br />

to walk on them, but one clumsy step I found myself surfing a sheet down the<br />

face of the roof for a metre or so, until it smashed into the spouting and in turn I<br />

splattered into the hand rail. All’s well that ends well I say.”<br />

Congrats to Scott Terry of St. Andrews Beach, Victoria!<br />

Share your Triple X moment and win a terrific<br />

Long-Arm Spring suit from Triple X Wetsuits,<br />

The hottest wetsuit you will ever wear.<br />

letters@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

GOOD MATES, GOOD TIMES<br />

Victorian surfer Ken Northwood dropped us a line<br />

to let us know how much he loved the mag and<br />

appreciated seeing everday people in the pages.<br />

At the same time he sent along a photo of him and<br />

some long-time mates. So Ken, hopefully you enjoy<br />

the pic of these everyday blokes just as much...<br />

info@triple-X.com.au<br />

1300 483 634<br />

WWW.TRIPLE-X.COM.AU<br />

14 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

GET FREEBIES<br />

Ken scores himself some free gear<br />

for his photo and note!<br />

Get some for yourself simply by<br />

sending in your thoughts and pics to:<br />

letters@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

“Here’s a photo of school/uni mates who have been<br />

surfing for more than 40 years. From left to right,<br />

Wayne (is Ken Northwood), Midge (is Mike Mcrae-<br />

Williams) and The Animal (is John Lesser).<br />

“All the boards were either made by, or bought from<br />

Zak Surfboards (in Thornbury, Melbourne) and in the<br />

photo we had just finished a session at Lorne Point.<br />

We hope to surf into our 70’s.<br />

Ken Northwood, Fairfield


nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

15


16 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


This is what Straddie is all about!<br />

Alex DePaoli in the barrel, Photo: Dan Priori<br />

READER PICS<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

17


Stay, surf, shop<br />

and dine at the<br />

Big Wave<br />

All your surf gear<br />

under one roof<br />

Islantis are stockists of all the<br />

major surf brands including<br />

surfboards by Al Merrick, Lost<br />

and Islantis.<br />

This October saw the innaugural run of a brand new surfing festival in the<br />

picturesque town of Byron Bay. The look on Mark Sharp’s face pretty much tells the<br />

tale of the fun that was had. PHOTO: Luke Hendel<br />

For more action from the Byron Bay Festival of Surfing, flip to Page 207 and 2<strong>08</strong><br />

Huge range of gear for hire<br />

surfboardboards, SUPs,<br />

kayaks, softboards, wetties<br />

and bikes<br />

P: 03 5956 7553<br />

E: info@islantis.com.au<br />

DAILY SURF REPORTS<br />

www.islantis.com.au<br />

Come overseas<br />

from $30/night*<br />

Studio suites and flashpackers<br />

The Island is brand new, ecofriendly<br />

accommodation with<br />

state-of-the-art facilities<br />

and plenty of open space for<br />

relaxation, dining and fun.<br />

P: 03 5956 6123<br />

E: info@theislandaccommodation.com.au<br />

BOOK ONLINE AT<br />

www.theislandaccommodation.com.au<br />

The Big Wave Complex<br />

10 - 12 Phillip Island Tourist Road<br />

Phillip Island, 3925, Victoria, Australia<br />

surf shop • surf school •<br />

accommodation • cafe<br />

18 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


READER PICS<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

19


A Victorian city screamer. Wettie or not, doesn’t this just<br />

make you wish you were there? Photo: Robyn Elliott<br />

READER PICS<br />

20 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

21


Tully St John applies some hairspray in Noosa.<br />

Photo: Matt Donnelly<br />

READER PICS<br />

22 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


There is only one original ...<br />

Surf Travel Company<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

23


24 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


THIS IS THE<br />

NEWS<br />

WHAT’S HAPPENING AROUND OUR SIDE OF THE COAST<br />

editorial@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

facebook.com/smorgasboarder<br />

twitter.com/smorgasboarder<br />

Photos: Joel Coleman/ Saltmotion Photo: Bruce Usher<br />

SYDNEY - SURF CITY MUSEUM EXHIBITION<br />

Long before Bondi was world famous and Sydney’s beaches were<br />

synonymous with boardies, barrels and breaks, it was surf bathing, beach<br />

inspectors and timber paddleboards that ruled the surf and sand. Surf City,<br />

a new exhibition at the Museum of Sydney until March 2012, traces the rise<br />

of Sydney’s surf scene from its early days that pushed the boundaries of the<br />

Australian way of life, to a national obsession that redefined the sport worldwide,<br />

cultivating international legends and a multi-billion dollar industry.<br />

Surf City: Getting Radical in the 50s, 60s & 70s is open until 18 March 2012 at<br />

Museum of Sydney, corner Bridge & Phillip Streets Sydney, daily 9.30am – 5pm,<br />

Call 02 9251 5988 or see hht.net.au. General $10, concession $5, family $20.<br />

NEW WOLF DEN<br />

Raised By Wolves have moved into bigger, stylish premises pretty much<br />

across the road from the old HQ. The new address is shop 3, 8-10 Waratah<br />

St Mona Vale. Their Old Barrenjoey Rd Avalon store is still powering as well.<br />

If you can’t get there in person, suss out their online store at<br />

www.raisedbywolves.com.au<br />

ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY<br />

A big thanks to Tom Gell and the crew at Patagonia for the invitation to the<br />

launch of their new store in Bathurst St, Sydney. It was a fun night, most<br />

certainly, and the store looked the goods. Best of luck for the future. With<br />

such a great team and quality gear we are sure it will be a success.<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

25


HULL RIPPERS<br />

I LOVE THE NIGHTLIFE<br />

Torquay’s Nightjar Night Markets are on again every Thursday from 4-10pm<br />

this January. The beloved project of three local residents keen to bring<br />

locals and holiday makers alike together for some serious entertainment<br />

and fun, attracted over 4,000 people earlier this year. It’s a true artisans<br />

market with a festival vibe bringing together local producers, emerging<br />

designers, contemporary artists, food stalls, bar featuring local beers and<br />

wines, live music, children’s interactive environmental area... Get there.<br />

By the ocean, along Spring Creek. www.nightjarmarket.com.au<br />

SURF TRIP REWARDS<br />

If you’re planning to head north for a bit of a surf and some rest prior to the<br />

busy festive season you could be in the running for a Ford Escape. If you<br />

book two or more nights on the Sunshine Coast prior to Dec 9 you can go<br />

in the draw at www.sunshinecoastspringescape.com.au<br />

Nightjar Markets<br />

Endless progression.<br />

Jan Bruun // 8’9 Ripper // pic: Will Burgess<br />

HULL RIPPERS<br />

Paddle Surf Hawaii’s new Hull Rippers take Standup Paddle<br />

Surfing to new levels. The design increases paddling speed and<br />

maneuverability. The combination of the hull bottom and chined<br />

rails allows for deeper, smoother, snappier turns.<br />

If you want to charge and take your standup surfing to another<br />

level, the Paddle Surf Hawaii, Hull Rippers will take you there.<br />

HULL ALL ROUNDERS<br />

If you are into cruising and catching small waves the Hull All<br />

rounder (Hull AA) is a balanced blend of stability, increased<br />

paddling speed and small wave performance. RR $995<br />

Check them out your local Paddle Surf Hawaii Dealer<br />

For your local dealer:<br />

Fluid Distribution // 0414 542 225<br />

www.paddlesurfhawaii.com.au<br />

VINTAGE SURF AUCTION<br />

Mick Mock’s renowned vintage surfboard and memorabilia auction is on<br />

Sunday Nov 27 from 10.30am sharp. Featured are ‘60s longboards, ‘70s<br />

single fins and twin fins, plus vintage skateboards and a ton of other surf<br />

memorabilia. Public viewing 3-5pm on Sat Nov 26 and 9-10am, Sunday,<br />

<strong>November</strong> 27. The venue is the Harbord Diggers Club.<br />

BEAT THE BOREDOM<br />

Boardom is now Shellharbour Surf & Skate. No longer a ho-hum surf<br />

clothing shop, the new owner Mark O’Sullivan has turned it into a real surf<br />

store and has ordered in a heap of new gear. Mark says, ”We’re now a<br />

surf store run by surfers. We have some great inhouse shortboards shaped<br />

by Ben Swan (cool name incidentally, no relation) and some old school<br />

classics by Brown Dogg with beautiful resin tints.“ Check it out at 1/16B<br />

Addison St, Shellharbour. Call 02 4295 3373<br />

NEW WAVE<br />

Northern Beaches based surf<br />

travel specialists The Perfect<br />

Wave moved into slick new<br />

premises at 3/20 West St,<br />

Brookvale. Director Jamie Gray<br />

said, “We are now offering a<br />

new surfing experience, making<br />

planning your trip as comfortable<br />

and stress free as possible from<br />

the minute you walk into our<br />

new HQ. You can view vids of<br />

all of our destinations on the big<br />

screen on a big comfy lounge<br />

with your partner or surf buddies<br />

and chat with an experienced<br />

surf travel agent.”<br />

www.theperfectwave.com.au<br />

26 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


FIlm Still: Simon ‘Shagga’ Saffigna<br />

BIGGEST WAVES EVER CAUGHT ON FILM, UNCUT<br />

Caloundra RSL are screening uncut footage of the monstrous swell that hit<br />

Teahupoo in August of this year. To catch a sneak peek, check out Simon<br />

‘Shagga’ Saffigna’s website at www.shaggadelic.com.au. Unbelievable!<br />

December 16 @ 7pm. Kids $5. Adults $10. Tickets on the door.<br />

FIND A NEW VOICE<br />

At their new store at Shop 3/11 Hilton Terrace, Noosaville/Tewantin. Stu has<br />

some great surf gear for kids through to mens at affordable prices. Check out<br />

their gear online at www.voiceinc.com.au<br />

WHAT’S HAPPENING IN THE ONLINE WORLD<br />

SMOOTH NEW SITE Smoothstar has a new website and a whole host of very<br />

sexy new skateboards. Try out a SmoothStar and you will see why we are such<br />

big fans. No other skateboard that simulates surfing we have tried to date can<br />

compete for price and quality. www.smoothstar.com.au<br />

BUY ONLINE, WIN A SUP As part of the launch of their cracking new website,<br />

Zak and the boys from Zak Surfboards in Melbourne are giving away a brand<br />

new SUP and clothing package valued at over $1000. Entry to the giveaway is<br />

open to the first 200 online sales. A 1 in 200 chance of winning is pretty good<br />

odds. www.zaksurfboards.com<br />

NEW BASE FOR POWER Powerbase Fins have revamped their website so check<br />

it out if you are interested in finding out more about this revolutionary superlight<br />

fin system that replicates glassed-in fins. The fins popularity has gone through the<br />

roof as Owen Wright’s star continues to rise. www.powerbase.com.au<br />

SLICE OF MANLY ONLINE The world famous Manly Longboarding Co has a<br />

new online site making it even easier to get your hands on some iconic Manly<br />

t-shirts, hoodies, towels and wetshirts. They also have a new vintage and kids<br />

range. Check it out. www.manlylongboard.com<br />

YOU FIIKIN BEAUTY FIIK Electric Skateboards have a new website showcasing<br />

their electronic skateboards in a real user friendly manner with more tech specs<br />

and details. Also previewed are some upcoming new board designs.<br />

www.fiikskateboards.com<br />

FREE STUFF!<br />

We have a box of Surfing DVDs to give away! In the spirit<br />

of free things, Johnny Abegg - last edition’s cover-model<br />

- kindly handed over his last copies of On Credit, his<br />

personal journey of running up ridiculous bills over four<br />

credit cards, chasing the dream of becoming a pro surfer.<br />

The first 30 or so new subscribers score themselves a<br />

copy. Thanks Johnny! Check out his other films online:<br />

johnnyabegg.wordpress.com<br />

SUBSCRIBE FOR ONLY $18 AT WWW.SMORGASBOARDER.COM.AU<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

27


XMAS GIFT GUIDE<br />

XMAS<br />

GIFT<br />

IDEAS<br />

CHECK OUT THESE<br />

SENSATIONAL STOCKING<br />

STUFFERS FOR SURFERS.<br />

Santa<br />

SANTA’S<br />

SURFING SACK<br />

So simple yet so clever.<br />

Waterproof protection for<br />

your valuables & beach gear.<br />

Baby Wasp $25. King Wasp<br />

$35. Bag combo $50.<br />

www.waspbags.com.au<br />

PICTURE PERFECT<br />

GoPro HD Hero2 is small,<br />

light and powerful, capturing<br />

full 170º wide angle 1<strong>08</strong>0p<br />

video & 11 megapixel photos<br />

at a rate of 10 photos per<br />

sec! From $300<br />

surfcomposites.com.au<br />

PADDLE<br />

WITH POWER<br />

Get you wave count up!<br />

H2Odyssey webbed gloves<br />

with 2mm shark skin palms<br />

and webbed fingers from See<br />

You Out There. $29.95.<br />

www.seeyououtthere.com.au<br />

ISLAND FEVER<br />

The latest in their extensive range of<br />

maximum performance sunscreen,<br />

lotion and spray is the clear gel stick<br />

application. Non-irritant, non greasy, 4<br />

hour water & sweat resistant. SPF 30+<br />

Clear Gel Stick RRP $9.95<br />

www.islandtribe.com.au<br />

28 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


WEAR IT OUT!<br />

Show your love with a<br />

brand new Surf is Free tee<br />

$30 + postage.<br />

Annual home delivery<br />

to smorgasboarder, 6<br />

editions. Subscribe for $18<br />

Do it all online at<br />

smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

www.smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

photo: Shane Newman<br />

WHERE’S WALLY?<br />

Behind the counter at Wally’s Water Gallery,<br />

selling amazing recycled furniture and other<br />

unique pieces to decorate your beach house.<br />

And it’s astonishingly affordable.<br />

6 Lorraine Ave, Marcoola Beach. 07 5448 8560.<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

29


XMAS GIFT GUIDE<br />

TAKE A STAND!<br />

More than just recycled timber surfboard racks,<br />

Byron Bay Board Racks also makes them for<br />

skateboards, snowboards, wakeboards, skis<br />

...even guitars. byronbayboardracks.com<br />

IN THE BAG<br />

Hand-made, Aussie cow<br />

leather laptop bags that<br />

Grant personally makes<br />

himself on cold,<br />

lonely winters’<br />

days in Torquay.<br />

tigerfish.com.au<br />

SUN STOPPERS<br />

...from Protecsun. These<br />

hats and caps are designed<br />

to stay on when you are<br />

going off. They stay on<br />

even when duck-diving.<br />

Hat or cap $39.95<br />

www.protecsun.com.au<br />

GOOFING<br />

AROUND<br />

More fun than a barrel of<br />

monkeys and a great way<br />

to improve your balance<br />

and hone your surf skills<br />

on land. Price $189<br />

www.goofboard.com<br />

SIESTA TIME!<br />

Traditional, handcrafted furniture made from<br />

recycled timbers that will stand the test of time.<br />

Byron Bay Recycled Timber Furniture. King size<br />

single day bed with marine vinyl outdoor weatherproof<br />

mattress. From $950.<br />

www.byronbayfurniture.com<br />

KANU DO IT?<br />

Traversing the countryside<br />

strapping down pallets of<br />

smorgasboarder and boards<br />

to test makes us well placed<br />

to judge these stainless steel<br />

reinforced lockable straps as<br />

sturdy, strong and secure. From<br />

$79.95 www.kanulock.com<br />

30 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


photo: Shane Newman<br />

RACK IT UP<br />

AT RON’S<br />

Surfboard racks for your bike. Padded metal<br />

frames available only in black. Price $159.95<br />

www.ronwadesurfboards.com.au<br />

Mob: 0410 443 776<br />

TIME TO GET<br />

TOIGHT!<br />

Increase your paddle fitness,<br />

improve your core, strength &<br />

power, mobility & flexibility,<br />

balance… Basically, become<br />

like us. Toight toitans of the<br />

Toubes. Get started with a<br />

free online lesson.<br />

totalsurfingfitness.com<br />

SKATING<br />

MEMORABILIA<br />

The history of the G&S<br />

skate team, compiled<br />

by Jim Goodrich. Trinity<br />

Distribution or the Boardstore<br />

just in time for Christmas.<br />

trinitydistribution.com.au<br />

www.boardstore.com.au<br />

sep/oct <strong>2011</strong><br />

31


DESIGNED FOR HIGH PERFORMANCE, SHORTBOARD STYLE SURFING, THE NEW<br />

PADDLE SURF HAWAII HULL RIPPER (8’9” - 9’11”) IS A SUP DESIGN THAT’S PART<br />

NEW TECHNOLOGY AND PART TRADITIONAL INSPIRATION. WE SPEAK WITH THE<br />

BOYS FROM PADDLE SURF HAWAII - BLANE CHAMBERS AND BILL WARD - AS<br />

WELL AS LOCAL DISTRIBUTOR, ANDREW ALLEN. WORDS: DAVE SWAN<br />

RIP LIKE A HULLMAN<br />

We’re always keen to showcase<br />

new innovations in all areas of<br />

surfing. We recently came across<br />

the Hull Ripper, which seems to be<br />

an exciting development in the SUP<br />

arena. With our interest already<br />

piqued, thanks to the resurgence<br />

in hulls in surfboard design with<br />

guys like Thomas Bexon, Ken<br />

Reimers, Jesse Watson and others<br />

revitalising the concept within a<br />

modern context, we were curious<br />

to find out what this particular<br />

design was all about.<br />

SB: WHAT ARE THE GUIDING<br />

PRINCIPLES OF MODERN DAY<br />

STAND UP PADDLEBOARD<br />

DESIGN?<br />

Andrew Allen: Basically most<br />

boards are either designed for<br />

glide and paddling speed or surf<br />

performance. The Hull Ripper<br />

design combines two variables that<br />

are usually at odds with each other.<br />

WHAT IS THE MAIN<br />

INSPIRATION BEHIND THE<br />

HULL RIPPER DESIGN?<br />

Bill Ward: The Hull Ripper design<br />

was initially born from a desire to<br />

make better, faster, down-wind<br />

paddle boards...... however, once<br />

we started riding waves on these<br />

boards we quickly came to realise<br />

they were also very well suited for<br />

surfing waves.<br />

WHAT MAKES IT SO<br />

REVOLUTIONARY?<br />

Bill: The hull bottom design and<br />

the bevelled or raised rails are<br />

nothing new to surfboard design.<br />

However, combining the two<br />

in a stand up paddle surfboard<br />

along with outline, rocker, and<br />

foil have given new life to the<br />

board’s performance. We have<br />

spent countless hours on R&D to<br />

fine-tune this design specifically<br />

for high performance stand up<br />

paddle surfing.<br />

Although a board may be 29 ½”<br />

wide, you are only planing on<br />

24-25”, therefore you have less<br />

surface area and more speed.<br />

When you go into a top turn<br />

or cutback, because the rail<br />

is already raised, it allows for<br />

a smoother more dramatic<br />

transition, which equates to<br />

deeper, harder carving cutbacks.<br />

When you look at pics of surfers<br />

riding a Hull Ripper compared to a<br />

flat bottom board it’s easy to see<br />

how the rail is more deeply buried.<br />

Blane Chambers: Because of<br />

the entry it allows you to travel<br />

through the water a lot quicker<br />

and because you are planing off a<br />

narrower bottom, you are able to<br />

lay it over and put a lot of power<br />

into you turns. Without a doubt<br />

it is the fastest board for its size<br />

that still surfs the way it does.<br />

TALK US THROUGH<br />

THE PERFORMANCE<br />

CHARACTERISTICS OF THE<br />

BOARD?<br />

Bill: The Hull Ripper design<br />

allows for faster paddling and<br />

makes catching waves easier.<br />

Many of those who have surfed<br />

these boards feel like they paddle<br />

6 inches to 1 foot longer than the<br />

actual length, yet surf 6” to 1 foot<br />

shorter than the actual length.<br />

Blane: This board is really fast.<br />

It has got that volume where you<br />

can fly along in dead sections and<br />

trim. Then, once at the end of the<br />

section, you can just lay into it.<br />

This board carves unbelievably for<br />

its size.<br />

IS IT DESIGNED FOR A<br />

SPECIFIC STYLE OF SURFER?<br />

Bill: The Hull Ripper is a<br />

high performance stand up<br />

paddleboard, period. The design<br />

requires and demands that the<br />

board be ridden strictly off the tail<br />

for high performance, progressive,<br />

shortboard style surfing.<br />

If you prefer nose riding or<br />

forward trim type surfing on a<br />

board, we have other boards<br />

for you. The Hull Ripper is not<br />

designed for that type of surfing.<br />

This design is strictly for those<br />

who want to blast the lip and<br />

do hard carving cutbacks just<br />

like you would with traditional<br />

shortboard surfing.<br />

For more information, visit<br />

www.paddlesurfhawaii.com<br />

32 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


MAIN: Hawaiian Noah Yap tucks into a turn on the Hull Ripper. Photo:<br />

Byron Yap OPPOSITE INSET: The rounded bottom of the board.<br />

LATEST: & GREATEST<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

33


COMMUNITY<br />

INTREPID<br />

INLAND EXPLORER<br />

WORDS: MARK CHAPMAN<br />

PHOTOS: DANICIA OLSSON.<br />

One man. No support crew.<br />

One Stand Up Paddle board. No<br />

support boat.Over 6,000km.<br />

We’re always fascinated by<br />

people who tackle ridiculously<br />

oversized ideas, from little guys<br />

taking on the establishment, to<br />

lone explorers taking on a bit of<br />

Mother Nature. Here’s one.<br />

Tommy Jacobson from the very<br />

inland town of Murrumbateman,<br />

NSW - halfway between Yass<br />

and Canberra, in fact - is about<br />

to embark on a pretty sizeable<br />

expedition, and that is to stand<br />

up paddle the four longest rivers<br />

in Australia. Taking on one river<br />

every four months, over the next<br />

year and a half he plans to stick<br />

a paddle in the water of the<br />

Murray, the Murrumbidgee, the<br />

Darling and the Lachlan, with a<br />

combined distance equivalent<br />

to almost a roundtrip between<br />

Brisbane and Perth.<br />

Why? Because they’re there.<br />

“I like to challenge myself,”<br />

Tommy says. “The first thing I<br />

wanted to do was to see how<br />

far I could get in a day. Then I<br />

started to plan to do a few rivers<br />

around my house and finally<br />

looked at the bigger picture and<br />

decided to paddle the top seven<br />

rivers in Australia.”<br />

Since that initial idea, Tommy<br />

crossed off Cooper Creek as well<br />

as the Flinders and Diamantina<br />

rivers because of their snappy<br />

inhabitants. Fortunately the<br />

longest four don’t share the same<br />

croc population, so he can get<br />

out and enjoy the trip without<br />

fear of losing something<br />

important - like a leg.<br />

Being a fan of river paddling<br />

myself, I was curious why<br />

Tommy enjoyed it so much.<br />

“It’s the environment. Up around<br />

here, near the Alpine region,<br />

we’ve got crystal clear water<br />

coming off the Snowys, little<br />

waterfalls on the side, canyons...<br />

It’s just good to be out there<br />

and it’s a good way to travel -<br />

you’re elevated because you’re<br />

standing up, so you get to take<br />

it all in.”<br />

Along his journey, Tommy<br />

aims to raise awareness<br />

and funds for<br />

wildlife<br />

conservation and skin cancer<br />

prevention. He’s been fortunate<br />

enough to have a number of<br />

sponsors like Carve, Go Pro,<br />

Ocean & Earth and more jump<br />

on board - including Kahuna<br />

Creations - the friendly Street<br />

SUP folks…<br />

“Kahuna jumped on pretty much<br />

straight away, which was great.”<br />

he says. “It’s really good for my<br />

preparation.<br />

34 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


NAME: Tommy Jacobson<br />

AGE: 19<br />

HOME: Murrumbateman, NSW<br />

HEIGHT: 177cm<br />

WEIGHT: 69kg<br />

STANCE: Natural<br />

THE RIVERS<br />

MURRAY RIVER<br />

(NSW/SA) 2,375 kilometers<br />

MURRUMBIDGEE RIVER<br />

(NSW/ACT) 1,485 kilometers<br />

DARLING RIVER<br />

(NSW) 1,472 kilometers<br />

LACHLAN RIVER<br />

(NSW) 1,339 kilometers<br />

I usually longboard every day, and<br />

since Kahuna sent some sticks up,<br />

I’ve been doing about 10km a day,<br />

going out and doing a big lap of the<br />

town every morning.<br />

“It’s been a pretty big part of my<br />

training, not only for fitness and<br />

getting my endurance built up, but<br />

also for technique and style. You<br />

don’t have to focus on the water,<br />

so you can really concentrate<br />

on your stroke, the right<br />

speed, the right<br />

pace... It’s different to being on<br />

water, but it’s helped a lot.”<br />

Tommy’s trip kicks off with the first<br />

400km of the Murrumbidgee river at<br />

the end of <strong>November</strong>. If you happen<br />

to be an avid flatwater SUP-er<br />

yourself, there’s an open invitation<br />

to take part in the adventure.<br />

“If anyone’s keen to join me on<br />

the expedition, do a few kms or a<br />

couple of days, it would be great<br />

just to have a bit of company and<br />

have someone experience what<br />

I’m going through.”<br />

Follow Tommy’s trip on Facebook<br />

through the smorgasboarder<br />

page at www.facebook.com/<br />

smorgasboarder and Tommy’s<br />

official page at: www.<br />

facebook.com/<br />

TommyJacobsonOfficalPage<br />

For more on Tommy and the trip,<br />

visit his website:<br />

www.tommyjacobson.com<br />

(Check out his gear out overleaf)<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

35


PICK UP STICKS: TOMMY’S TRAINING<br />

The SUPing doesn’t ever have to stop when you have a Kahuna Big Stick<br />

and a longboard to roll around on. And hell, why just have a normal longboard<br />

to roll around on when you can build yourself an 8ft road roller for<br />

an authentic street SUP experience? Including the giant stroke of genius<br />

above, Tommy talks us through his quiver of land-boards.<br />

ABOVE: 8’ x 1’ 5” Treated pine<br />

spine with marine ply deck. “It’s<br />

taken plenty of test boards to<br />

get the right flex-to-length ratio.<br />

I’ve snapped a fair few on the<br />

way. Using my Magellan Gps I’ve<br />

tracked over 50kmph. It was very<br />

comfortable at that speed and<br />

the flex absorbs all the bumps<br />

and rocks.<br />

LEFT TO RIGHT: No-name<br />

bamboo 6-ply layup 41”,<br />

Dashboard Wolf Prowler 36”,<br />

Dashboard Bear 36” and a 9-ply<br />

No-name Dropdown 40”. The<br />

Kahuna sticks are 2 x Adjustable<br />

Moko Big Sticks, a regular Big<br />

Stick 5’6” and - Tommy’s favourite<br />

- the Big Stick Bamboo 6’0”.<br />

“This is a great all round quiver for street SUPing everywhere. I always<br />

keep a board and an adjustable big stick in my car in case I get the urge to<br />

go for a skate when I’m at University or at my job at Adrenalin Boardstore.<br />

My personal favourite combo at the moment is the Dashboard Bear and<br />

the bamboo Big Stick - great fun and very smooth for trips over 20km.”<br />

36 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

37


THE LAST BASTION<br />

This is one of surfing’s last bastions, literally, in more ways than one.<br />

Mallacoota, on the far eastern corner of Victoria is a surfing outpost<br />

surrounded by Croajingolong National Park and the Cape Howe and Point<br />

Hicks Marine National Parks. To say it is a majestic, pristine natural<br />

environment would be an understatement.<br />

tee shirts, caps, stubby coolers, coffee mugs<br />

the perfect gift 365 days a year<br />

www.oldguysrule.com.au<br />

The latest surf fashion, surf<br />

hardware and accessories<br />

Only 10 minutes from Wollongong!<br />

Mention<br />

smorgasboarder<br />

for a<br />

10%<br />

discount!<br />

100 Railway St, Corrimal NSW 2518<br />

(02) 4283 7196 www.surfpit.com.au<br />

As with many small towns dotted along our coastline, the surfers here<br />

are passionate, hardcore and committed.<br />

When plans first arose over a generation ago to mess with Mallacoota’s<br />

class break by building a 130m breakwall smack bang in the middle<br />

of it, there was an outcry amongst local surfers and members of the<br />

community.<br />

Basically the proposed project, which won initial local and state<br />

government approval, entailed not only a rockwall but a causeway road<br />

on the beach leading to a new boat ramp, massive ongoing dredging and<br />

maintenance costs and what has been described by those opposed as a<br />

dubious economic case.<br />

Those in favour argue recreational and professional fisherman and<br />

abalone divers require safe ocean access. The proposed council plan<br />

would provide 90% usability, which could possibly be described as<br />

overkill. Anyone familiar with this stretch of coast would know it lives<br />

up to its reputation as the Wilderness Coast. Perhaps greater dangers lie<br />

beyond a boat’s initial launch site when weather conditions are far from<br />

favourable – nature’s way of saying “Don’t go, Joe?”<br />

The alternative is to upgrade the existing boat ramp to meet Australian<br />

Standards for marine safety, at around a third of the council’s proposed<br />

project, retain the local beach, rockpools and native vegetation and allow<br />

surfing to continue at Bastion Point. Sounds like a pretty convincing<br />

argument.<br />

The future of Bastion Point lies in the balance with a government<br />

decision expected to be handed down prior to Christmas.<br />

To find out more about this issue go to the East Gippsland Shire Council<br />

site at www.egipps.vic.gov.au and www.savebastionpoint.org,<br />

where you can also lodge your objection to the proposed development.<br />

38 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


Bastion Point, Mallacoota<br />

Photo: Vanessa Janss<br />

FIGHT FOR LIFE<br />

A recent story that touched our<br />

hearts was that of Nick Duggan,<br />

a 34-year-old Sunshine Coast<br />

man who has been diagnosed<br />

with Coccidioidmycosis<br />

Meningitis. The fatality rate of<br />

this extremely rare fungal disease<br />

here in Australia is 100%.<br />

Nick contracted the disease whilst<br />

holidaying in San Diego via a dust<br />

spore that lodged in his lung. It<br />

has now penetrated Nick’s spine<br />

and developed in his brain.<br />

His wife of 11 years, Allison, and<br />

two young children, Jessi, 8, and<br />

Dakota, 5, have lost everything in<br />

including their business, car and<br />

soon, their home, in the fight for<br />

Nick’s life - an expensive process<br />

for what is apparently not a<br />

recongnised disease in Australia.<br />

The family has set up a website,<br />

www.millionto1.org to raise<br />

money to fund a trip to the US for<br />

specialist treatment. Sunshine<br />

Coast shaper Mark Pridmore of<br />

MORE Surfboards has donated<br />

a surfboard towards the cause.<br />

We wanted to highlight to our<br />

readers the continual good work<br />

done by shapers and members<br />

of the surf community, and to<br />

remind everyone of how special<br />

life is. The message certainly hits<br />

home when you have young kids<br />

yourself, as both Mark and I both<br />

do. Check out the website and<br />

show your support if possible.<br />

John O’Donoghue Photo: Gus Brown<br />

PRODUCTIVE<br />

MEETING<br />

The 9th Annual Boardmeeting<br />

GUS BROWN<br />

REPORTS!<br />

was held over the first weekend<br />

of <strong>November</strong> at Kawana Beach on<br />

the Sunshine Coast. Although the<br />

conditions were pretty average<br />

with light onshore winds and<br />

2 ft of swell, the competition<br />

was a blast. Event organisers<br />

were calling it the biggest<br />

Boardmeeting yet, with a record<br />

number of teams competing to<br />

raise funds to assist local disabled<br />

kids and their families.<br />

The event included a surfing<br />

competition (using the word<br />

competition loosely), an<br />

expression session, a SUP display<br />

and culminated in a surf gear and<br />

memorabilia auction.<br />

Newcomer to the Boardmeeting<br />

- wild man John O’Donoghue<br />

of Sabbath Surf in Bilinudgel,<br />

just north of Byron Bay, was a<br />

keen participant and supporter<br />

of the event. Johno donated a<br />

board for the charity auction.<br />

Word has it that Johno worked<br />

around the clock in the two days<br />

in the lead up to the event to<br />

finish his contribution and then<br />

headed up the coast for the 3-4<br />

hour trip, after no sleep, to turn<br />

up less than a minute before the<br />

start of the first heat. He proudly<br />

displayed his 6’11” Lowrider - a<br />

stringerless Epoxy board with<br />

carbon fibre rails - which he<br />

reported was the “freshest”<br />

board in the auction. Nice one.<br />

The Boardmeeting is a regular<br />

event of the Sunshine Coast<br />

surfing calender so make sure you<br />

keep an eye out every <strong>November</strong><br />

for the event. Congratulations<br />

to the organisers, sponsors and<br />

supporters for putting in their<br />

all for a real purpose and for yet<br />

another succesful year.<br />

www.theboardmeeting.org<br />

Just a real surf shop...<br />

Surfboards,<br />

movies, art and<br />

memorabilia at the<br />

top of the hill in<br />

Yamba.<br />

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39


COMP ACTION<br />

WORLD<br />

BEATERS<br />

Regular readers of smorgasboarder will know<br />

we’re not really about surf comps. But once in a while, a<br />

competitive surf event comes along that truly stands out as a celebration of<br />

unique skill and forward-thinking judging criteria... An event that introduces<br />

us to faces of the future - tomorrow’s billboards and next week’s giants of<br />

surfing. Now, as converted followers of the WCCS - the World Championship of<br />

Crap Surfing held in Cornwall, UK - we are absolutely hanging out for a pair of<br />

signature Kenny Dixon high-performance boardies.<br />

TOP: Proud winners from left to right, Suki Allday, Bill<br />

Bankes-Jones and Kenny Dixon ABOVE: New world<br />

champion Bill Bankes-Jones makes one of his many elegant<br />

‘dismounts’ in his quest for crap surf glory. BELOW:<br />

Intrepid Kenny Dixon loses control for three extra points in<br />

his late surge to third place in the WCCS.<br />

PHOTOS BY JULIAN PERROTT.<br />

NIGEL PENGELLY, FROM CORNWALL:<br />

“Persistent onshore drizzle, wind, fog and<br />

mushy surf made for ideal conditions for the<br />

<strong>2011</strong> World Championship of Crap Surfing.<br />

More than 50 self-confessed crap surfers<br />

descended onto Praa Sands for the event in a<br />

chance to win the coveted world title or steal a<br />

prize in one of the special award categories like<br />

Best Wipeout, Worst Wetsuit, Most Missed<br />

Wavesand Most Genuinely Upset Loser.<br />

Organiser and BBC Radio 6 resident poet<br />

Murray Lachlan Young said: “It is a contest<br />

that awards merit for the least achievement<br />

from the most effort. The Cornish surf is a<br />

cruel mistress and some very aspiring surfers<br />

were made to look absolutely crap this year.”<br />

More than 200 spectators were entertained by<br />

the comical antics, presided over by a panel<br />

of keen, experienced judges that included a<br />

woman’s surf instructor, a professional boxer<br />

and a window cleaner.<br />

Competitors were marked points for moves<br />

such as inadvertently doing something good<br />

or performing a magic moment of stupidity.<br />

Apart from the world titles and trophies, there<br />

were a variety of prizes donated by local and<br />

international surf businesses, breweries and a<br />

second hand furniture shop to be won.<br />

After five heats and the youth contest, nine<br />

finalists braved the worsening conditions as<br />

high tide approached.<br />

The final was a hard-fought affair with some<br />

contestants struggling to get to the point<br />

where the waves broke. Spectacular falls<br />

from hapless initiates staggering around in<br />

the surf gave the judges plenty of scope for<br />

awarding points.<br />

Not only were the wave riding techniques<br />

under scrutiny, the attire of the contestants<br />

and surfboards used were also observed. One<br />

competitor chose a large cardboard box over<br />

a traditional surfboard and judges witnessed<br />

a rare - and possibly homemade - leopard-skin<br />

print wetsuit.<br />

Eventually, after much deliberation, theatre<br />

director Bill Bankes-Jones swept to success<br />

after displaying a series of elegant dismounts<br />

from his board. Suki Allday was the runner up<br />

after missing most of the waves she could have<br />

caught while Kenny Dixon won third position<br />

with a fine display of appalling board control.<br />

Bill, speaking from the champions podium said:<br />

“I’m speechless. That’s all I have to say other<br />

than it’s been fun and I’ll be back to defend a<br />

title that rightly belongs to me next year.”<br />

Competitors and spectators were entertained<br />

at The Crap Surfers Ball that evening.”<br />

We anxiously await next year’s glorious clash<br />

of these titans of the surf.<br />

Show support at www.crapsurfer.com<br />

40 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


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41


42 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


BEN OXENBOULD IS WINNING CRITICAL<br />

ACCLAIM FOR HIS CHILLING PERFORMANCE AS<br />

PSYCHOTIC SURFING ‘LEGEND’ BULL, IN THE NEW<br />

AUSTRALIAN THRILLER CAUGHT INSIDE. AND<br />

RIGHTLY SO - HIS PERFORMANCE IS NOTHING<br />

SHORT OF PHENOMENAL, IN WHAT IS SURE TO<br />

BECOME A MODERN CULT CLASSIC.<br />

CAUGHT INSIDE centres around a group of surfers<br />

on the surf charter of their lives to a secluded,<br />

tropical surf spot. Unfortunately, one of them brings<br />

along the one thing that can tear apart the male<br />

cameraderie: a very foxy, young woman. The boys’<br />

attention turns from the surf to the single female<br />

and all hell breaks loose, turning a dream surfari into<br />

a fight for survival as the alpha male takes control.<br />

INTERVIEW BY DAVE SWAN<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

43


TOP: The Maldives offered up the perfect backdrop for the tense tale.<br />

ABOVE: Sam, played by Daisy Betts is dangerously beautiful. BELOW:<br />

Peter Phelps as Skipper Joe tries to break up the bullfight on the beach.<br />

44 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


LATEST: INTERVIEW<br />

I’m on a mid-afternoon call. As<br />

casual as you please, it’s Ben<br />

Oxenbould ringing me back to<br />

discuss his latest film. He’s just<br />

so incredibly down-to-earth,<br />

within seconds I feel like I am<br />

talking to a mate.<br />

You may know Ben from films<br />

such as Black Water or as far<br />

back as his first feature film,<br />

Fatty Finn, which he did at the<br />

age of nine. He has starred in<br />

numerous theatre productions,<br />

television shows such as Hey<br />

Dad, E-Street, Rafferty Rules<br />

and can lay claim to some truly<br />

hilarious skits from four series<br />

of Comedy Inc. But his gripping<br />

performance in Caught Inside is<br />

a very different plate of sushi,<br />

with the unhinged Bull a world<br />

away from the feelgood schoolboy<br />

antics of Fatty. Produced on next<br />

to no budget, with only the most<br />

essential of crew and not a surfdouble<br />

in sight, the film is a gritty,<br />

psychological thriller packed with<br />

social commentary, black comedy<br />

and a boatload of tension.<br />

DAVE: I must admit Ben, I’m<br />

far from a film critic but your<br />

performance was nothing<br />

short of brilliant. It completely<br />

blew me away. In all honesty,<br />

it scared the absolute crap<br />

out of me.<br />

BEN: That’s good… I have to<br />

say, when I went to some of the<br />

openings and afterwards we had<br />

question-and-answer sessions,<br />

the reactions from a really diverse<br />

demographic of people has<br />

been amazing. People have just<br />

been coming up to me saying,<br />

“Nightmares… I am going to have<br />

nightmares” and then they just<br />

walk away. It is good to see the<br />

movie had the desired effect on<br />

you. (Laughs)<br />

DAVE: In your own words, can<br />

you explain what the movie is<br />

all about?<br />

BEN: I guess for me, my take<br />

on the whole issue is there are<br />

certain basic rules and regulations<br />

in life and when we start to<br />

underplay, or undermine them,<br />

things can turn to shit – they are<br />

there for a reason.<br />

Each person needs to take<br />

responsibility for their own<br />

actions and each person needs<br />

to understand how their actions<br />

are going to play out with other<br />

people in their surrounds and their<br />

environment.<br />

A lot of the movie is talking about<br />

the monsters we create - taking<br />

responsibility for your actions<br />

and allowing yourself to still be<br />

yourself and not be moulded and<br />

shaped by convention. Those are<br />

the fundamental rules in life and<br />

society and the way we grace<br />

ourselves in front of others. Once<br />

you start to mess with those<br />

boundaries, things can get ugly<br />

and unwind.<br />

I am not saying my character’s<br />

behavior is acceptable. It’s<br />

certainly not. But what the movie<br />

is saying is “shit happens.” Face<br />

up to it and throw the mirror in<br />

front of it when it goes down.<br />

The feedback we have received<br />

so far has told us that people<br />

have seen these various themes<br />

evolving – which is really beautiful,<br />

as it means it’s not just black and<br />

white, or two-dimensional. There<br />

is a lot more to it.<br />

DAVE: Your performance has<br />

been likened to Robert de<br />

Niro in Raging Bull, Robert<br />

Mitchum in the original Cape<br />

Fear and Eric Bana in Chopper.<br />

They are pretty big accolades.<br />

My question is, with such a<br />

convincing performance, do<br />

you have an inner psycho? You<br />

know, have you come unhinged<br />

or suffered from a bit of a<br />

nervous twitch at some stage?<br />

BEN: I reckon everybody does<br />

and I just managed to find a more<br />

direct path to tap into it, I think.<br />

It’s the power of observation. You<br />

know, observing people like that.<br />

I was always one of those kids<br />

who needed to find out stuff. If<br />

someone said, “Don’t touch that,<br />

it’s hot!” I would have to put my<br />

hand on it and find out for myself.<br />

It is the same with people. You<br />

come across that guy. He might<br />

be in the playground or in the pub<br />

or out in the surf. You try to work<br />

out ways of quietly getting away<br />

from him. But I would just sit and<br />

observe and try to find out what<br />

makes him tick. I think that kind of<br />

opened up the pathway to tap into<br />

the inner psycho.<br />

DAVE: Director Adam<br />

Blaiklock had mentioned he<br />

based Bull’s character on one<br />

of his trips to Indo. I believe<br />

you also drew inspiration for<br />

the role from characters you<br />

had come across when surfing<br />

down the east coast?<br />

“SHIT HAPPENS. FACE UP TO IT AND<br />

THROW THE MIRROR IN FRONT OF IT<br />

WHEN IT GOES DOWN.”<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

45


“WHEN YOU START DROPPING<br />

IN ON PEOPLE OR HASSLING<br />

PEOPLE, IT’S NOT ON.”<br />

BEN: Yes, absolutely – I found in<br />

most of those places I had surfed and<br />

stayed, you generally find one bloke<br />

who is the loudest guy in the pub or<br />

out in the surf.<br />

There was this one guy, when I was<br />

15, that was an absolute terror.<br />

Everybody was scared of him. What<br />

I realised was, because they were<br />

all scared of him, they became his<br />

sycophants.<br />

He was great in their eyes and could<br />

do no wrong, whatever shitty things<br />

he did. They would always just<br />

laugh along. It was just nervous and<br />

uncomfortable laughter and I thought,<br />

“Why? How is he getting away with<br />

that? Why are they behaving like<br />

that?” And I realised that no one<br />

wants to deal with it. I reckon the<br />

demons in someone like that... The<br />

issues run so deep, they may never<br />

be resolved in a lifetime.<br />

With that said, I quizzed Ben<br />

on his take on localism, surf<br />

violence and wave rage.<br />

BEN: It’s funny, because I’m 42 now<br />

and grew up surfing with all my<br />

cousins at Avoca. They all taught me<br />

how to surf and how to handle the<br />

ocean. They were all surfers along<br />

with being champion surf lifesavers<br />

and swimmers. My uncle, Spike<br />

Jones, was the oldest lifeguard in<br />

NSW for a while there.<br />

I gotta say, we had this fantastic<br />

camaraderie when we were growing<br />

up. Sometimes we would head down<br />

to Foresters or North Curly to surf and<br />

you would get that local element. I<br />

totally get that. I really, really do. I<br />

understand the need to preserve your<br />

environment and instinctively, as<br />

humans, we have that within us.<br />

However, growing up, I would also<br />

surf with older guys who were<br />

hippies, lived in the bush and all they<br />

wanted to do was surf. They didn’t<br />

care about convention. They didn’t<br />

want to get involved in the modern<br />

world. It was just about the waves. I<br />

got that part of it as well.<br />

It’s not a contradiction as such, but a<br />

paradox between surfing for the soul<br />

and surfing to carve and shred and<br />

push yourself… I got both worlds.<br />

Violence in the surf though is so out<br />

of place. The basic laws of surfing<br />

are there for a reason. They evolved<br />

naturally and organically for a reason.<br />

Everyone knows what the rules are.<br />

They are very, very simple and there<br />

are only a couple of them. If you<br />

adhere to them, everyone is going to<br />

get a good surf in.<br />

I’ve had times when I’ve been surfing<br />

with a group of guys that I had only<br />

just met in Indonesia, who were just<br />

unreal. These dudes were like, “Go<br />

mate!” I had never surfed this break<br />

before and was a bit tentative, but<br />

they were talking me into waves<br />

and giving me waves. For me, that<br />

is what surfing is about. Everyone<br />

getting off and enjoying themselves.<br />

And when someone gets a long<br />

barrel or smacks a lip so hard that it<br />

rings through your ears and everyone<br />

goes, “woooahhh!!” It’s that<br />

feeling… That feeling is what I love<br />

about surfing.<br />

When you start to break those rules,<br />

when you start dropping in on people<br />

or hassling people, it’s not on. I<br />

have grown up in Sydney and I’ve<br />

paddled out to surf some beaches at<br />

times and gone, “Nah”, and paddled<br />

straight in. I knew I wasn’t going<br />

to get a wave. It’s not why I am out<br />

there. I don’t want to be out around<br />

bad energy.<br />

It turns out that behaviour in the<br />

water was an important factor<br />

in deciding the cast. Director<br />

Adam Blaiklock requested that<br />

second auditions took place in<br />

the water to ensure all actors<br />

were competent surfers. I asked<br />

Ben whether he suffered from<br />

any stage fright. Me personally, I<br />

would have been paranoid about<br />

falling and looking like a tool…<br />

BEN: Fortunately Adam and I have<br />

known each other for a long time.<br />

We were at primary school together<br />

and in and out of each other’s lives<br />

probably for the last 35 years. He<br />

knew I surfed and I knew he surfed.<br />

He was pretty keen for me to play<br />

the role. He was just making sure the<br />

entire cast could surf. I completely<br />

understand why he did it and God<br />

bless him for doing it.<br />

There is nothing worse in my mind,<br />

when you have a close-up of an actor<br />

in the surf, they cut away and its<br />

supposed to be the same scene but<br />

you can tell one is shot in Costa Rica<br />

and the other one shot in Huntington,<br />

and he has no idea what he is doing.<br />

Adam just didn’t want that, otherwise<br />

anyone who surfs watching the<br />

film would go, “Argh!” It takes that<br />

element of reality away from it.<br />

Following the auditions the film<br />

was shot in just four straight<br />

weeks whilst on location in the<br />

Maldives. Ben described the<br />

shoot as pretty full on.<br />

BEN: We just literally just kept<br />

going, got up every morning, worked<br />

around the storms and kept plugging<br />

away. I think it added to it.<br />

We’re convinced CAUGHT<br />

INSIDE is destined to be a cult<br />

classic, with Bull quotes already<br />

flowing thick and fast in the<br />

office. (To avoid work, simply<br />

reply: “What? Are you gonna<br />

have a go at the Bull, are you?”)<br />

46 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


LEFT: A still from the movie - no<br />

surf doubles, just genuine surfing.<br />

ABOVE: A light moment during<br />

filming. TOP RIGHT: The shoestring<br />

budget made for creative camera<br />

work. RIGHT: Sushi à la Bull. FAR<br />

RIGHT: Cast and crew, hard at work.<br />

“ADAM REALLY BELIEVED IN THE STORY, AS DID I. WHEN I READ<br />

THE SCRIPT, I TOTALLY GOT WHERE HE WAS COMING FROM.”<br />

Seriously though, it was fantastic<br />

to watch an original screenplay<br />

instead of yet another remake.<br />

BEN: Kudos to Adam and Paul S<br />

Friedmann - the film’s producer - for<br />

getting it happening. Adam really<br />

believed in the story, as did I. When I<br />

read the script, I totally got where he<br />

was coming from. I loved that they had<br />

the balls to approach it. It’s a tough<br />

ask in this day and age. And they had<br />

bugger all budget. Adam just said,<br />

“Nah, I wanna do it.”<br />

We have had the most incredible reviews<br />

saying Bull is a “fully formed character.”<br />

I didn’t want people to walk out of the<br />

cinema hating him. We had some of<br />

the boys from Narrabeen at one of the<br />

screenings and they all came down<br />

afterwards and said “We know that guy.<br />

We know a guy like that.“<br />

DAVE: And the Bull hair, mate?<br />

You’ve cut it all off. Why? Being<br />

bald as a badger myself, I would<br />

have milked that psycho image<br />

for at least a couple of months!<br />

(laughing all round)<br />

BEN: It took me a couple of years and I<br />

don’t know if that is testament to why I<br />

didn’t have any acting work for a while.<br />

I had a bit of a Ned Kelly beard going as<br />

well. My girlfriend was very reluctant<br />

for me to cut it but I had to for my next<br />

job. I was doing a period drama for the<br />

ABC and was playing a 30-year-old<br />

up to a 70-year-old man. It was set in<br />

1798, so by 1838 I had this bloody grey<br />

bouffant hair with these massive big<br />

mutton chops.<br />

DAVE: You also look like you bulked<br />

up for the movie. Did you undergo<br />

any specific training regime or just a<br />

decent course of steroids? (laughs)<br />

BEN: Tell you what it was.<br />

Fundamentally, I am pretty lazy, I<br />

literally have never been to the gym in<br />

my life. A mate of mine took me to the<br />

gym about 6 months ago for the first<br />

time and I was in there for about half<br />

and hour and I hurt my back so badly<br />

that I vowed I would never go near a<br />

gym again in my life. I just do a lot of<br />

swimming and surfing.<br />

Leading up to it I was just making sure<br />

I was eating well and was healthy but<br />

once we were there in the Maldives...<br />

We were eating fresh fish everyday and<br />

it was about 50 degrees. So I think I<br />

sweated the last 30 years of sh*t out of<br />

my system... A good purge.<br />

I don’t want to sound too metrosexual<br />

here. (laughs) I can’t say I went on a<br />

protein diet of tofu and had body wax<br />

and stuff like that. I was just eating well<br />

and didn’t eat so much junk.<br />

DAVE: Speaking of metrosexuals,<br />

in one scene Bull has a shot at one<br />

of the other characters in the film<br />

for that. Was that that a specific dig<br />

and intentional commentary on the<br />

modern male?<br />

BEN: I think it is. It’s a bit of a<br />

generalisation, but certainly it does<br />

exist - those guys who like the girls<br />

to think they’re in touch with their<br />

feminine side.<br />

There is a certain element of<br />

maleness and masculinity that we’re<br />

losing because we are being criticised<br />

for having testicles, basically. There<br />

is certainly a shift in the male<br />

psyche and male ideology and I think<br />

the director’s development of the<br />

characters was terrific.<br />

Rob, played by Sam Lyndon, was the<br />

“metro f#*king sexual”(as Bull refers to<br />

him in the movie) slipping and sliding<br />

his way through things. The one scene<br />

where they are setting off in the dinghy<br />

towards the break and yell back, “You<br />

coming for a surf?” And we’re thinking,<br />

“Ahh mate. We’re here on a surf charter<br />

and you’ve gone all soft on us and<br />

picked up a chick and it’s not about the<br />

surf anymore.” There is definitely that<br />

element of metrosexuality creeping into<br />

the male psyche and yes, yes… I will<br />

be perfectly honest, it does concern me.<br />

(lots and lots of laughter)<br />

It was obvious that between all<br />

the jokes and laughter Ben is<br />

extremely passionate about his<br />

surfing and the ocean. I asked what<br />

he loved most about it all.<br />

BEN: The ever-changing natural<br />

beauty of the ocean. Also the<br />

opportunity to be in that energy with<br />

the ones you love and care about -<br />

with your friends and family.<br />

From where I’m standing now, I am<br />

actually looking out to sea. My girlfriend<br />

and I base ourselves near the water<br />

wherever possible. It’s almost therapy.<br />

Even if I don’t surf every day, I get up in<br />

the morning and go for a walk. I make<br />

sure I go in the ocean every single day<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

47


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without fail. Whether I swim for 50 metres or 2km. I need to have that to<br />

start my day, every single day. When I don’t do it I feel like I am getting a bit<br />

twitchy. That’s the beginning of my inner psycho.<br />

DAVE: Favourite spot nowadays for a surf?<br />

BEN: Couple of spots. I love Green Island. I had a great surf last winter at<br />

Bronte with only three of us out. Honestly, wherever there’s a good wave<br />

and a good vibe.<br />

DAVE: And your favourite board? What is the quiver like?<br />

BEN: I had really nice 5’11 fish but it got nicked out of my HR Holden a<br />

couple of years ago and I’ve never got over it! I am riding a wider board<br />

at the moment – an Afterburner. I think they’re for fat blokes? (Laughs) It’s<br />

a really nice board. I can go either way. If there is a long swell, I’m more<br />

than happy to get out on a 9ft plank. I don’t mind getting out on 4 or 5ft on<br />

a 5’11 fish and getting a bit loose with it all.<br />

DAVE: A final plug for the movie?<br />

BEN: I would just like people to give it a chance. For one, support<br />

independent Australian films and two, allow yourself to get lost in the story.<br />

If you enjoy it, you enjoy it. If you don’t, you don’t – that’s fine and everyone<br />

is an individual and their opinions are theirs. It’s a pretty wild ride.<br />

Never one to sit on the fence, I will say this: Make every effort to go and<br />

see Caught Inside. Not only to support independent Australian films<br />

and filmakers, but because it is genuinely great viewing. If you like your<br />

thrillers, this is a cracker and we’re sure we haven’t heard the last of Ben<br />

Oxenbould - a star on the rise, and if you can excuse the pun, he is about<br />

to ride the crest of one mother of a wave.<br />

A Flying Fish film, produced by Paul<br />

Friedmann - who’s also a Northern<br />

Beaches clubbie - written by Joe<br />

Velikovsky, Matt Tomaszewski<br />

and directed by Adam Blaiklock,<br />

CAUGHT INSIDE stars Ben<br />

Oxenbould, Peter Phelps, Daisy<br />

Betts, Sam Lyndon, Simon Lyndon,<br />

Leeanna Walsman and Harry Cook.<br />

Look out for it at a cinema near you<br />

and if it’s not showing ask them<br />

why not. For more information on<br />

the film, cast and screenings, see<br />

www.caughtinside.com.au<br />

48 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

49


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*LITHIUMPOWER ABSREGENERATIVE WIRELESSREMOTE<br />

150 150


Macaronis Resort before the<br />

disaster and the boys enjoying the<br />

first few days of the trip.<br />

Resort photos supplied by Macaronis<br />

Surf photos by Colin Sakoff<br />

52 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


PARADISE<br />

LOST<br />

Most surfers dream about travel to distant parts of the world, in search of<br />

perfect waves and isolation away from the daily grind. After taking 25 years<br />

to finally make his first surf trip, Newport Beach builder and keen surfer, Garth<br />

Galdwell, experienced a lot more than he bargained for when he found himself<br />

in the wrong place at the wrong time. One year since a destructive tsunami hit<br />

the Mentawais, he recalls a night that he and many others will never forget.<br />

LATEST: LOCALS<br />

WORDS: GARTH CALDWELL<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

53


54 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


LATEST: LOCALS<br />

“I STAYED OUT ONE AFTERNOON TILL DARK, JUST SITTING IN THE<br />

CHANNEL, WATCHING GUYS GETTING BARREL AFTER BARREL.”<br />

“My story begins with a thank<br />

you to Surfaid International for<br />

their efforts to keep in touch with<br />

all the families back home during<br />

this major event, to the wonderful<br />

Indonesian locals from the resort<br />

who only had our best interests at<br />

heart and helped us to get out of<br />

there safely, and lastly to the boat<br />

crew of Tengerri Charters for the<br />

rescue of everyone from Macaronis<br />

Resort. We owe you so much for<br />

your professionalism, food, water,<br />

medical assistance and those<br />

couple of Bintangs that went down<br />

oh so well...”<br />

I jumped on a plane from Sydney<br />

airport on the 18 October, 2010<br />

for a flight to Denpasar to Jakarta<br />

to Padang. On our stopover, we<br />

ate, swam and met our travel<br />

companions – some Aussies from<br />

Byron Bay and the Central Coast<br />

and “Tex” Richard, who had come<br />

all the way from Texas via Moscow.<br />

We soon departed the harbour for<br />

the boat cruise on a supply ship to<br />

Sikacap village some 14 hours away.<br />

As we reflected on what lay ahead,<br />

Bintangs flowed generously until the<br />

rumble of the dusty diesel engines<br />

took over and sent us all to sleep.<br />

Waking the next morning to an<br />

overcast day, we sighted land and<br />

stopped at Sikacap, then boarded<br />

two transfer boats for the wet trip<br />

to Macaronis Surf Resort. As soon<br />

as we spotted breaking waves in<br />

between the rain storms we were<br />

all keen as to try and guess what<br />

reef we were looking at and what<br />

break it was - I will admit that I had<br />

no idea. With it still showering and<br />

overcast, we finally pulled up to<br />

the wharf to be greeted by Damien,<br />

James and all the locals that work<br />

at the resort.<br />

As we made our way up to the<br />

main house to book in, enjoy a fresh<br />

coconut juice and a towel off, the<br />

first question was naturally: “How<br />

are the waves?” With the storm<br />

activity it had turned onshore, so we<br />

used the time to meet some other<br />

guests and headed off to our lagoon<br />

huts to settle in. A little later, the<br />

wind settled down and there was<br />

a little wave on offer for us to see<br />

what this break was all about.<br />

I got my first wave and it just raced<br />

down the line and didn’t stop! For<br />

the next five days we got surf from<br />

3 to 6 ft and shared it with some<br />

of the boats and travellers from all<br />

over the world. I stayed out one<br />

afternoon till dark, just sitting in<br />

the channel, watching guys getting<br />

barrel after barrel.<br />

On the morning of the 25th October<br />

there was talk of a boat trip. The<br />

waves were a bit smaller and<br />

crowded, so we did a trip to a break<br />

called Batcaves. On a slow cruise<br />

back I looked across at the coastline<br />

at the low-lying villages so close to<br />

the water. Neither myself, nor the<br />

villagers there had any idea of what<br />

lay in store only a few hours later.<br />

Getting back to the Resort we all hit<br />

Maccas for the arvo. Bintang time<br />

was again upon us, so we sat down<br />

and relaxed yet again after some<br />

fun waves.<br />

8:30pm.<br />

I was shattered, and I headed off to<br />

bed. Within 10 minutes, a lot of the<br />

others did the same.<br />

Happy days for Garth at Maccas. RIGHT: The lagoon, before.<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

55


BELOW: Where the huts<br />

had stood, just one day before.<br />

9:40pm. What the hell? My bed is<br />

shaking. Craig is yelling “Get up!<br />

Get up!” I wake in a daze, looking at<br />

the TV and the hut shaking. Is it an<br />

earthquake?<br />

Instinct took over. I grabbed my<br />

passport, wallet and camera and ran<br />

upstairs in the main house. There<br />

was a strange stillness in the air<br />

and the smell of the ocean grew<br />

stronger and stronger. Little did<br />

we realise a Tsunami was coming<br />

straight at us.<br />

Then it hit.<br />

There was chaos. There was panic<br />

and screaming as resort staff<br />

were caught in the grounds below<br />

running to the house. The first<br />

wave smashed in, pushing all the<br />

huts over like bits of Lego. Blocks,<br />

footpaths, trees, concrete, bricks…<br />

we watched debris go everywhere<br />

and the sound of the torrent of<br />

water washing under us, moving<br />

and shaking the house structure.<br />

Little did we know that the bottom<br />

of the house, the restaurant and bar<br />

had washed away into the lagoon.<br />

We looked out the windows and the<br />

boats in the bay had collided. One<br />

seemed to have exploded and was<br />

on fire. There was water moving<br />

around everywhere and all I could<br />

think about was those guys over on<br />

the boats. Were they alive or dead?<br />

Burnt? Drowned? We watched as<br />

the Freedom III punched out through<br />

one of the waves and outside into<br />

the safety of deeper water.<br />

We could hear screams coming from<br />

outside, where the local people<br />

trapped during the first wave,<br />

hanging onto palm trees and holding<br />

their breath while the wave washed<br />

over them. Wah, the island boat<br />

driver, had two locals hanging on<br />

to him as he clung to a palm tree<br />

himself.<br />

Amidst all the chaos, we realised<br />

that Robo, one of the boys from<br />

Byron bay, was outside and had<br />

been caught by the first wave while<br />

running from his hut. Washed into<br />

the half built pool he had managed<br />

to grab a board, or part of one, to<br />

stay afloat. He ended up in the<br />

mangroves at the back of the house<br />

hanging on for dear life, now three<br />

metres in the air battered by trees,<br />

bricks, rocks and more.<br />

As the second wave came through,<br />

we could see through the bay that<br />

Robo was still in the trees. We were<br />

all very concerned as his mates<br />

yelled at him to hang on. As it hit<br />

the house they were still yelling at<br />

each other - it was the only way we<br />

could hear anything above the noise<br />

of the water rushing under us.<br />

Meanwhile, I looked across the bay<br />

and saw the boat had been dragged<br />

out and then pushed back into the<br />

jungle again by the second wall of<br />

water. We were hearing reports of<br />

missing people who were jumping<br />

ship onto boards thrown overboard<br />

or anything else that could float.<br />

After about ten smaller wave<br />

surges, some of the guys went to<br />

get Robo out of the mangroves ,and<br />

within ten minutes he was upstairs<br />

with blankets, very shaken, in shock<br />

and so lucky to be alive. Craig and<br />

I were looking at the boat still<br />

“WASHED INTO THE HALF BUILT POOL, HE HAD MANAGED<br />

TO GRAB A BOARD, OR PART OF ONE, TO STAY AFLOAT.”<br />

56 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


The main house in the<br />

light of day, still standing.<br />

LATEST: LOCALS<br />

burning and then saw a smaller<br />

inflatable tender from Freedom III<br />

come in around Maccas bay<br />

rights with a massive flood light.<br />

Amazingly, there was a reply in the<br />

form of a flashing beacon from the<br />

Midas, the boat that was on fire.<br />

Survivors…<br />

I watched on as they were plucked<br />

from the mangroves and into the<br />

rescue boat, not knowing or seeing<br />

how many had survived. The rescue<br />

boat saw my crude Morse code<br />

SOS with a torch light and flashed<br />

back at me. They knew that there<br />

were people still at Maccas.<br />

The adrenalin and panic never quite<br />

left us as tremors continued to rock<br />

the house for a few more hours.<br />

The worst was over, but it was the<br />

longest night that I had ever spent,<br />

totally isolated, not knowing what<br />

was going to happen next.<br />

6:30am came and the morning<br />

was dull and raining. The daylight<br />

brought with it the stark reality of<br />

what happened the night before.<br />

We came down stairs to a welcome<br />

of absolute destruction. Timber,<br />

trees and bricks lay everywhere.<br />

Aside from a few busted boards<br />

everything was gone.<br />

But we were alive.<br />

We had to get to Silabu village,<br />

back through the jungle about 1<br />

½ hours away. We found anything<br />

that would float - broken boards,<br />

took buckets and some drinking<br />

water, and made the decision to<br />

swim across the lagoon with what<br />

we had. The first group set out and<br />

within 20 minutes all were across<br />

the lagoon and loaded up for the<br />

trek through the jungle.<br />

As we walked through the jungle<br />

we could see how far these<br />

waves came inland – easily 500 to<br />

600m. Trees and mangroves were<br />

uprooted and lay piled up with<br />

dead fish and animals. We found<br />

ourselves in waist deep water and<br />

climbing over debris, but finally<br />

found our way to the track. We<br />

arrived at the Chief’s village at<br />

around 9am and were greeted with<br />

hot tea, noodles and biscuits, which<br />

was immensely appreciated. After<br />

some conversation between locals,<br />

resort staff and Maccas guides we<br />

were told that there were boats<br />

coming to the rescue, so it was<br />

time to just sit and wait.<br />

At about 4:00pm the boys from<br />

Tengarri boat charters arrived and<br />

that was our ticket out. Thanks to<br />

a satellite phone, we were able to<br />

make our real first communication<br />

back home and to SurfAid.<br />

ABOVE: Safe at the Chief’s village.<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

57


“I THOUGHT TO MYSELF, IT<br />

WASN’T EXACTLY THE WAY<br />

I HAD EXPECTED TO LEAVE<br />

SUCH AN AMAZING PLACE.”<br />

As the boat left, we passed around the rear of Maccas. Tired after the<br />

ordeal, I thought to myself, it wasn’t exactly the way I had expected to<br />

leave such an amazing place.<br />

Now safely back at a motel in Sikacap, we met up with the others and<br />

it was time to reflect on what went on with that stage of our rescue.<br />

As locals started dealing with news of death, destruction and damage<br />

from all around, we got onto the boat bound for Padang from where we<br />

would fly home.<br />

A year has gone by, and while some of us are still dealing with it one<br />

way or another, my thoughts and heart goes out to those that are still<br />

there, picking up the pieces, looking for their families and making sense<br />

of the some 450 deaths. Thanks once more to Surfaid International for<br />

the massive effort and ongoing commitment to this amazing place that<br />

so many of us have been touched by.<br />

ONE YEAR LATER...<br />

While the lucky ones got to go home, many of the locals had lost theirs<br />

and much more. But thanks to the concerted efforts of organisations and<br />

individuals, the recovery is well under way.<br />

SurfAid International is one of the organisations at the forefront<br />

of the support lines providing education in nutrition, hygiene, health<br />

and disease prevention. With social support programs in the local<br />

community, they have also launched the ‘Epic Mentawai’ campaign to<br />

raise funds for the work. All donations are greatly appreciated and are<br />

used towards delivering emergency preparedness, recovery and health<br />

programs, including hygiene and malaria. Get involved and donate, visit:<br />

www.surfaidinternational.org/epicmentawai<br />

At the time of going to print, some of the guests who experienced<br />

the tsunami and others who helped raise $30,000 to help Macaronis<br />

Resort and local villagers get back on their feet were back over in the<br />

Mentawais for the anniversary of the event.<br />

Mark Loughran, Director of Macaronis Resort said that aside<br />

from covering the costs of the overall clean-up and dealing with the<br />

58 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


emergency situation, a portion of these funds have been put toward assisting the local<br />

villagers affected by the disaster.<br />

“We found that Tumalea Village - also a part of Silabu Village, and very remotely located<br />

- was also completely wiped out,” Mark tells us. “There were only a couple of fatalities<br />

in this village from the tsunami, but all the villagers of Tumalea had challenges ahead in<br />

having to relocate their homes 3-4km inland - a sad realisation for villagers that used to<br />

rely on the ocean for their main food source. All homes of 48 families were destroyed.”<br />

The resort funding also supplied the village with a communal 12m longboat with a new<br />

outboard engine and a 15 KVA Yanma generator to supply electricity to all 48 new homes<br />

in the village. Additionally, a communal TV has been donated to the villagers and will be<br />

put in the new school or church.<br />

“Although these are bare necessities of modern day living for most people, for these guys<br />

it’s like gold,” Mark says. “In reality, their life has been pretty bleak over the past year<br />

having no transport, no finished houses, no power, nothing really… Just relying mainly on<br />

three weekly loads of ‘beras miskin’ - rice delivered by the local government to the poor.”<br />

LEFT: The rebuilding of the resort as at July <strong>2011</strong><br />

FAR LEFT: A memento of the night - survivors sign a damaged<br />

surfboard. LEFT: From survivor to volunteer, Ibu Esri now works with<br />

SurfAid to provide social support to her fellow villagers.<br />

As for the development of the resort, Mark says the rebuilding is under control. 16 new<br />

rooms have been built on the second floor of the main building, this time 9m above sea<br />

level and all with great views of the coastline. A new jetty and pool are also complete<br />

while construction is under way on new gazebos.<br />

“With the new seaplane operation set to commence flights to Macaronis on March<br />

14 next year, it should really give us a big boost back into the action as well, so really<br />

looking forward to that.”<br />

Click here for more information on the resort: www.macaronisresort.com<br />

Check out some footage of surfing during the first day of the anniversary visit:<br />

www.youtube.com/watch?v=WisN51R_BiA<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

59


LATEST: LOCAL<br />

60 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


Victorian carpentry teacher Michael Pinney<br />

seems to be the epitome of a comeback kid.<br />

An obsessed wave chaser in his youth, he’s<br />

experienced the absolute lows of fighting his<br />

way back to the water through injury and illness<br />

to the highs of discovering a new love of surfing<br />

through longboarding. Inspired by Michael’s<br />

determination and drive, World Surfaris surf<br />

guide in the Maldives, Richard Kotch, decided it<br />

was a tale that needed telling.<br />

WORDS AND PHOTOS:<br />

RICHARD KOTCH<br />

Michael today - destroying lips, not backs.<br />

PHOTO: Richard Kotch<br />

I’ve only known Michael Pinney for 22 days in total, split over<br />

two trips to the Maldives, yet he’s the first person I’ve felt<br />

compelled to write about. Without a doubt the most ‘Ocean<br />

Minded’ surfer I’ve met out here - famous Pros included - he has<br />

the ‘Curren Way’ of being in the right place for the wave of the<br />

day, every day, and does it without a hint of greed or cunning.<br />

The guy’s a gentleman and it’s almost impossible to get him to<br />

talk about himself. But, after a little bit of pressing and a whole<br />

lot of observing, here is his story…<br />

Micheal Pinney (definitely born to surf, with those famous<br />

initials) rode a short board for 20 years, though we’re not talking<br />

‘toothpicks’ here. He’s a big bloke who likes big, powerful<br />

breaks. Constant travels to waves of consequence dictated a<br />

particular type of board. I seriously doubt that he’s ever done an<br />

air reverse.<br />

“Hawaii and WA,” he replies when asked about favourite<br />

waves, and fittingly his ‘short boards’ were 7ft+ on most days,<br />

and 9ft+ when Waimea was on. With five trips to the North<br />

Shore under his belt and surfing 20ft Wiamea as a personal<br />

highlight, Michael reckons the waves down south and up in the<br />

desert were as good as anything anywhere. Yes, he was fit,<br />

charging and on a roll.<br />

Unfortunately, he wasn’t indestructible. In his late 20s, he was<br />

out of the water for two years with a serious back injury – a<br />

prolapsed disc, where the intervertabral disc is torn and bulges<br />

out from the spine. Working as a carpenter his body was already<br />

taking a pounding, and weakened from the daily wear and tear,<br />

a disc in his back gave way during a backhand re-entry. At only<br />

27, he found himself in severe pain, unable to sit for months and<br />

off work for even longer.<br />

“After a while I was told I could surf again, but I kept injuring it<br />

again and gave up surfing,” Michael says.<br />

“I was angry, under a lot of financial pressure, so I had to keep<br />

working, which I hated due to the pain.”<br />

To add illness to injury, the back damage was followed by Ross<br />

River virus at age 29. A cruel, double blow that brought him to<br />

the lowest point of his life by far.<br />

Thanks to one simple mosquito bite at Pt Lonsdale, he started<br />

suffering with headaches, rashes and flu, compounded with<br />

arthritis-like joint pain and weakness.<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

61


“I slept 20 hrs a day and struggled to walk due to the pain,” he explains.<br />

“There is no cure and the only treatment is to try and reduce the pain, but<br />

that didn’t really work.<br />

“A physio told me I had the physical capabilities of a 70 year old… This is<br />

when I decided to fight it by being as healthy as possible. The statement<br />

made me think about the way I was living. It was a blessing in disguise. The<br />

pain from all other injuries had gone - it didn’t register compared to the pain<br />

I was now in.”<br />

But Michael shrugs and says he just dealt with it, that it gave him a whole<br />

new pain threshold. And you can hear he’s not trying to impress anyone.<br />

He dealt with it, learned to take pain and made it through with the support<br />

of his love of 18 years. His voice softens and the emotion is palpable. “I<br />

couldn’t have survived without Tracey. I owe her everything. She stood by<br />

me through my darkest times. I wasn’t much fun to be around. I was dark,<br />

bitter and twisted, and the drugs and drinking made it worse… I just can’t<br />

tell you how much I love her.”<br />

Dealing with these issues, Michael was out of the water but still very much<br />

connected to it. He did a lot of fishing from his boat during his recovery and<br />

it turns out it was time well spent, learning more about the ocean in those<br />

two years than he did in the twenty before them. The patterns of the Great<br />

Southern Ocean storms, the phases of the moon and its effect on the tide<br />

and currents are essential reading if you’re venturing miles offshore in a<br />

small boat. It all went in. He learned, not by studying graphs or charts, but<br />

by being out there, absorbing and feeling the changing moods and rhythm of<br />

the ocean.<br />

With that learning comes an inner wisdom, a wisdom that now seems to<br />

guide him after an hour of catching mid sized runners through the inside, to<br />

paddle way outside to catch a bomb set, a set way bigger than anything all<br />

session. He paddles for the horizon, catches the one wave, absolutely blitzes<br />

it, and then goes back to his insiders. As a surf guide, I’ve been here for four<br />

years and thought I had pretty good positioning and wave sense… Mike<br />

schooled me, yet seemed quite apologetic about it!<br />

GETTING BACK TO THE SURF<br />

After a gradual, semi-recovery, at the age of 30 he started to venture back<br />

into the surf, riding the biggest, easiest board to paddle he could find - a<br />

longboard.<br />

“I fell in love with surfing again,” he says. “I got to learn a new style of<br />

surfing. I had no choice but to start as a beginner, but I didn’t realise how<br />

much skill was involved in it.”<br />

The embers of a fire that had been virtually extinguished started to glow<br />

once more.<br />

He started surfing club contests at home with the Point Lonsdale Boardriders<br />

and the Surf Coast Longboarders of Torquay, winning Club Championships<br />

and Open State Title the next year. He went to the Australian Titles but “got<br />

shown up big time,” as he puts it. Undeterred, he continued to compete all<br />

over Australia making friends and finals. Once again he was on a roll. For<br />

the next few years he travelled around Australia, revisiting some favourite<br />

haunts with a bit more rail to bury.<br />

Now 37, Michael’s still working his way down the road to recovery, but<br />

loving every minute of his surfing. It shows. He’s a joy to surf with. He<br />

has somehow managed to fuse the egalitarian philosophy of the average<br />

Australian with Darwin’s ‘survival of the fittest.’ Sure, he could be on the<br />

best wave of every set, but he’s not. He gets his share, but he’s just as likely<br />

to tell the surfer waiting next to him: “The next one’s a good one. You’re up<br />

62 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


LATEST: LOCAL<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

63


… Go mate,” rather than out paddle them and<br />

take the wave himself.<br />

“I love waking up every day with the prospect<br />

of a surf, whatever the conditions,” says<br />

Michael. “Longboarding gets me out in the<br />

water no matter what it’s like.<br />

“The last couple of years I’ve made some big<br />

improvements in my strength and fitness and I<br />

can still go further.<br />

“I’ve always loved riding big boards. When I<br />

was young, I just thought it was done in big<br />

waves. It’s an enjoyable form of surfing and<br />

noseriding is up there with barrels. I have also<br />

made a lot of friends that ride them.”<br />

These friends come in the form of the<br />

longboarding community throughout Victoria<br />

and Australia. There’s plenty of incentive to get<br />

himself to contests, but he says the heats are<br />

almost a sideshow to the gathering of mates.<br />

Someone mentions the Australian Longboard<br />

Title... “That’s my focus now.” says Michael.<br />

“It’s what I’ve been working towards for the<br />

last few years, though it’s not easy being from<br />

Victoria. I’m going to put the effort in and go<br />

hard for a few years and see where it takes me.”<br />

But competition or not, for Michael it’s all<br />

about becoming a better surfer - driving his 9ft<br />

board straight up at a pitching lip, floating up to<br />

the nose, whipping it back into the pocket and<br />

riding the foam ball deep in the barrel.<br />

“I want to spend more time on my noseriding,”<br />

he told me on his last day out here in the<br />

Maldives. “It’s the hardest thing in surfing to<br />

learn. It makes a head high wave feel critical.<br />

It just feels so good.” There’s a lesson in those<br />

few words right there.<br />

BELOW: Michael and his<br />

pillar of strength, Tracey.<br />

We wish him all the best. And hope that it<br />

‘feels good’ all the way.<br />

64 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

65


66 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


LATEST: LOCALS<br />

RUNNING AHEAD OF THE CURVE<br />

WORDS BY BEN HORVATH<br />

One of the surfing’s true utility players, Shane Peel has enjoyed a career that has crossed over into virtually every facet of the game. From photography and<br />

magazine publishing, marketing and most recently surf tourism, there is little the forty-something Sunshine Coast native has not been involved in over the last<br />

20-odd years. What Shane may have lacked in formal education has always been more than compensated for by a driving passion for the culture. “Peely” has<br />

published surfing magazines, won awards as a surf photographer and journalist, discovered waves in remote locations, directed marketing for a global surf label,<br />

and co-founded one of the world’s best surfing resorts. Thesedays he lives between an island residence in North Sumatra, the snow fields of Hokkaido and the<br />

pointbreaks of Noosa. You could say he’s come a long way from the tin shed in Nambour on Queensland’s Sunshine Coast, where it all began.<br />

BEN: SO, HOW DID YOU GET INVOLVED IN THE SURFING INDUSTRY<br />

IN THE FIRST PLACE?<br />

SHANE: I guess like a lot of people in the surf industry, my start was born<br />

of frustration with the status quo. I had been shooting photos from the age<br />

of 16 and had a few published from a trip I did to Bali in the late 80’s, but<br />

found I was spending a fortune on film and processing, going backwards<br />

at a rate of knots. My mates would look at the images and say “You’re<br />

kidding, they didn’t want to print that?” So after a while I started to believe<br />

them, and with a friend from the Sunshine Coast we started up Waverider<br />

Magazine. Our plan was to produce a super-localised magazine for surfers<br />

on the Gold and Sunshine Coasts. The magazine grew rapidly, becoming a<br />

nationally circulated publication. We then decided to provide something<br />

for the growing long boarding fraternity as well, creating Australian<br />

Longboarding Magazine. That’s when things really started to move forward.<br />

Peter Morrison (of Morrison Media) took me under his wing, buying the<br />

masthead after four issues, whilst I continued on as editor. That opportunity<br />

exposed me to the greater industry.<br />

I was then headhunted by Rip Curl to head up the Marketing Department of<br />

their Free Sports Division. That was another eye opener. I parted company<br />

with the Curl after a couple of fun years and found myself unemployed the<br />

week before Christmas in Torquay. Christmas in Torquay is a pretty grim<br />

time wave wise, so it was a simple decision to pick up the cameras and<br />

hit the road. For the next six or so years I specialised in producing remote<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

67


“WE FORMED TELO<br />

ISLAND LODGE OVER A<br />

SIX PACK AND A COUPLE<br />

OF BOTTLES OF WINE.”<br />

location surf features, going as hard as I could go. My general routine<br />

was three weeks on the road, bolt home, drop the film at the lab, write<br />

the feature, sleep for a few days, edit the shots and send them to the<br />

relevant mags before rolling straight into the next assignment. It was<br />

a super fun period in my life that allowed me to travel to some of the<br />

most obscure surf locations on the planet. Places like Sardinia, the outer<br />

islands of Melanesia, Central America, Kiribati, the back blocks of Indo,<br />

pretty much anywhere I thought there might be surf.<br />

HOW DID TELO ISLAND LODGE COME ABOUT?<br />

I remember being at home in Torquay between assignments when an old<br />

mate of mine Mark “Maxy” Grant from the early days in Indonesia pulled<br />

into the car-park at Winki. We were having a chat and I casually asked<br />

what he was up to? He mentioned he was thinking about starting a surf<br />

resort up in Sumatra. I asked if he wanted a partner. He said “Sure,”<br />

and that afternoon I went to the ATM, promptly<br />

withdrew the remaining cash I had on my least<br />

burnt credit card and we formed Telo Island Lodge<br />

PTY LTD over a six pack and a couple of bottles of<br />

wine with our girlfriends. That evening our lives<br />

changed forever.<br />

YOU MAKE TAKING A RISK SOUND PRETTY<br />

EASY. WAS IT REALLY THAT SIMPLE?<br />

At first it was remarkably simple. We knew the<br />

location better than anyone. Mark spent the<br />

previous 15 years in North Sumatra. I understood<br />

marketing and we had a clear vision of just what<br />

we thought we could do. The simple life ended<br />

pretty quickly though. Sitting here six years later<br />

reflecting on an unbelievable amount of hard work,<br />

stress, risk and a couple million bucks invested,<br />

the reality of running a high end tourism business<br />

in a remote location is pretty apparent to all of us<br />

involved in resort.<br />

We have had a remarkably lucky run though.<br />

As Lopez said all those years ago “It’s all about<br />

timing, with the right timing you can come from<br />

anywhere”.<br />

DO YOU STILL SPEND A FEW MONTHS OF<br />

THE YEAR PURSUING POWDER IN JAPAN?<br />

For diehard waxheads like you, Horvath, and crew<br />

who have never ridden a snowboard in perfect<br />

powder - DO IT. The feeling is so similar to surfing,<br />

it’s insane and the best powder snow in the world<br />

is in Hokkaido, Japan. We had been sneaking<br />

up to a place called Annupuri to go boarding in<br />

January every year. One morning on the front<br />

steps, the fella who owned the place we stay at<br />

mentioned there was a chance it was up for sale.<br />

That old timing thing again. It just so happened<br />

we had made a little money that year at Telo, so<br />

we scratched together the funds and launched<br />

Annupuri Lodge a few years ago. That’s our winter<br />

home now in Dec, Jan and Feb. A perfect foil to<br />

the rest of the year in the tropics.<br />

68 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


WHERE TO NOW, SHANE? WHAT LIES AHEAD<br />

FOR YOU AND THIS INDUSTRY THING?<br />

It’s all about running ahead of the curve I reckon.<br />

The global surf industry is a multi-billion dollar<br />

industry. People are taking up boarding sports in<br />

unprecedented number. The global surf tourism<br />

industry is a 7 billion dollar industry and is growing<br />

faster than any other segment in surfing. Everything<br />

is changing rapidly. Stuff we dreamed about five or<br />

six years ago are already reality. Things like wavepools,<br />

seaplane surf trips, snow parks. They are all<br />

here NOW. The future is now. The people who are<br />

going to influence that culture moving forward will be<br />

the early adapters, people or companies who have a<br />

vision for the future, but a respect for the past.<br />

At the end of the day though, for surfers nothing<br />

much has changed. All you need is a board, a pair of<br />

shorts and the ocean provides the rest. It’s what’s<br />

available to you - if you wish to take it to the next<br />

level, that’s changed. The options are better at all<br />

levels than any point in the history of surfing.<br />

“ALL YOU NEED IS A<br />

BOARD, A PAIR OF<br />

SHORTS AND THE OCEAN<br />

PROVIDES THE REST. “<br />

LATEST: LOCALS<br />

Smorgasboarding all the way, Shane makes<br />

the most of slopes in the water and the snow.<br />

PHOTOS: Supplied<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

69


LATEST: COLLECTOR<br />

ADDICTED TO<br />

Simon Kettle talks to a passionately positive hoarder of surfing history<br />

Richie Laing began like so many surfers before him on old paddleboards and<br />

‘mals’ in the wind-churned waves of Blackrock in Port Phillip Bay, Victoria. But<br />

on school holidays he ventured regularly down to Phillip Island on the Bass<br />

Coast and moved there permanently in the late 1970’s.<br />

For Richie and his family - wife Di and children Daniel and Jess - surfing has<br />

become a lifestyle and a love, frequenting the many quality waves The Island<br />

has to offer whenever they get the chance. Part of Richie’s love for surfing<br />

extends to his passion for surfboard collecting and SIMON KETTLE was lucky<br />

enough to catch up with him recently, and talk the talk with a true collector.<br />

“In 1977 I realised I was a collector of surfboards. I actively went to the<br />

Dandenong ‘Trash n Treasure’ market and I saw a 11’ Makaha triple-stringer<br />

longboard sitting there. The guy wanted 30 bucks for one of the most beautiful<br />

things I’d ever seen, but I only had $25. Luckily I talked him down. $25 was a<br />

substantial amount in those days - nearly half my wage for a week, but I just<br />

had to have it. We somehow tied it on the roof of Di’s Vauxhall Cresta which<br />

was interesting, because it had a round roof like a VW Beetle. But we did get it<br />

home and that was the first board I actively went out and said, ‘I’m going to surf<br />

this board, but I’m going to keep it too’.“<br />

IS YOUR SURFBOARD COLLECTING ADDICTION UNDER CONTROL?<br />

“It is now, but at one stage I was absolutely ruthless in my pursuit of boards.<br />

But half the surfing population is collecting as well, so it’s become expensive<br />

and hard to get them. I think people that have boards realise there’s some<br />

historic value to them and there’s not so many being sold or given away. A lot<br />

of my boards were given or gifted to me. I bought a few, but now if I have to, I’ll<br />

walk away. Although if it’s a twinnie or single fin and 7’ or under...”<br />

WAS THERE A SURFBOARD YOU CHOSE NOT TO BUY BUT WISH YOU<br />

COULD GO BACK IN TIME AND PURCHASE?<br />

“Well, I haven’t walked away from that many. If I really, really wanted them I’ve<br />

got them. There was one that I was offered for 50 bucks that just looked like<br />

it belonged at the tip and I said to the guy ‘No, you’re dreaming. For $50 you<br />

“I could<br />

never let go of my<br />

George Rice<br />

surfboards.”<br />

The Rice Stuff,<br />

left to right...<br />

9’2” Balsa - Given to me by Phillip<br />

Island’s most senior and respected<br />

sculptor and ceramic artist, David<br />

Fincher. It was lying in his paddock<br />

with creatures walking on it for years.<br />

It was lovingly restored by ‘Choc Oke’<br />

and is a thing of beauty.<br />

5’3” George Rice ‘Rice Bubble’<br />

I found it in a caravan in Cowes and<br />

had to have this classic S-deck shorty.<br />

9’6” George Rice Competition<br />

Model I love this board. Won two Old<br />

Mal titles at Lorne point on this baby!<br />

70 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


RICE<br />

Vicco collector<br />

Richie Laing’s<br />

hunger for<br />

classic boards<br />

MICHAEL CUNDITH<br />

SURF DESIGNS<br />

The MC<br />

Quiver<br />

Danny Wills Rippa 5’10” x 19” x 2 1 / 8”<br />

should be giving it to me to save you dumping it’. It was 9’, painted white and<br />

it was trashed but it ended up being an excellent old Keyo with an aluminium<br />

sticker on the back that dated it very early 60’s. The guy who got it had the<br />

whole thing stripped, saved the sticker and resprayed it with magnificent red<br />

and white stripes. It’s the greatest example of an early 1961 Keyo that you’ll<br />

ever see. I regret that one.”<br />

Dart Fish 6’2” x 21 ¾” x 2 ½”<br />

DO YOU ‘MAKE ROOM’ IF A SURFBOARD IS TOO GOOD TO RESIST?<br />

“Oh, we’ve got room. I’ve still got a bit of room down stairs. Di insisted I build<br />

a house for the surfboard collection. We had them all in a container which is<br />

where she would’ve liked them to have stayed, but I just kept putting them on<br />

top of the other ones.“<br />

WHAT SURFBOARD ARE YOU TAKING WITH YOU TO THE GRAVE?<br />

“I could never let go of my George Rice surfboards because I like the boards and<br />

I’ve met and spoken with George. I’ve got a few of his boards from 5’6 to 9’6<br />

and I just love them. I love the history of the name too, so I’d keep those.”<br />

HOW HAS YOUR OBSESSION AFFECTED YOUR FAMILY?<br />

“They’re very supportive of it! My son Daniel is taking more interest in it. At the<br />

start, he just couldn’t understand it, but he’s actually developed an appreciation<br />

of the style and shapes of the boards and he surfs a few of the single fins really<br />

well. So, he actively sources them for me too. Even Jess has an appreciation for<br />

them now. We’re still working on Di but she’s still got a fair way to go.<br />

WHICH CLASSIC OLD BOARD DO YOU GET ASKED ABOUT WHEN YOU<br />

TAKE IT FOR A SPIN?<br />

“There’s a lot of interest in the 8’ Stubbies, the Vee Bottoms because guys look<br />

at them and they go, ‘ ooh, that’s shorter and the vee bottom with Greenough<br />

fins in them. I’d really love to have a surf on them’. They’re the ones I get asked<br />

about all the time.<br />

IS THERE A SURFBOARD YOU’VE REGRETTED SELLING?<br />

“Yes. I didn’t sell it, I gave it away. A mate that lives next door to me in Cowes<br />

really wanted to get a board for decoration, so I got him this surfboard for a $100.<br />

It lived in his garage for twenty years and it never saw the light of day because he<br />

didn’t really care. I should have kept that one for my collection, but at least its next<br />

door. It’s a lovely looking board.<br />

DO YOU HAVE ANY ADVICE FOR SOMEONE EMBARKING ON A<br />

SURFBOARD COLLECTING ODYSSEY IN <strong>2011</strong>?<br />

“I think there’s going to be today’s boards that will be collectable tomorrow. We<br />

trashed and tossed out so many great surfboards. Like all the twinnies - they<br />

never survived and now they are are really hard to find, whereas the single<br />

fin before them did. I think there are iconic brands in <strong>2011</strong> that the guys of<br />

today will be talking about in the future and saying, ‘I should have kept that Al<br />

Merrick’ or something like that.<br />

“But if you’re looking to collect boards from the 60’s, 70’s or 80’s, then just think<br />

about if you’ve got the room for them. My advice would be to get one or two<br />

classic examples from each era. You’ll get a lot of enjoyment out of looking at<br />

them. I’d love to see just a fine example of each era up on the wall. That would be<br />

magnificent!! So, that’s my advice. Don’t discard all today’s boards, because the<br />

guys that did in the 60’s and 70’s now regret it.“<br />

CUSTOM ORDERS<br />

ON ANY MODEL<br />

Telephone: 02 66858778<br />

Fax: 02 668<strong>08</strong>932<br />

Factory Showroom:<br />

3 Banksia Drive<br />

Byron Bay Industrial Estate<br />

BYRON BAY NSW 2481<br />

email: info@mcsurf.com.au<br />

www.mcsurf.com.au<br />

Islander 6’8” x 21 ½” x 2 ¾”<br />

Stubbie 6’8” x 22 ½” x 3”<br />

Davenport Disc 6’10” x 21 ½” x 2 ¾”<br />

Whale Fish 8’0” x 25 ½” x 3 ½”<br />

The Man Gun 9’1” x 22 ¼” x 3 ¼”<br />

High Performance Mal 9’1” x 22 ¾” x 2 ¾”<br />

Balsa Mal 9’6” x 24” x 3 ¼”<br />

FREIGHT<br />

IT NOW!<br />

We’ll send<br />

boards<br />

anywhere in<br />

Australia for<br />

reasonable rates<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

71


Sorry mate, thought I already included the specs, here ya go. - Left to right<br />

- Bamboo 6 ply layup 41inch no brand. Dashboard Longboard wolf prowler<br />

36inch (great surf style). Dashboard Longboard bear in a medium 36inch<br />

(great snowboard style). and a 9ply dropdown deck 40inch no brand. The<br />

Kahuna sticks are 2x Adjustable Moko big stick, regular big stick 5’6” and<br />

my favourite the Big stick Bamboo 6’0”.<br />

This is a great all round quiver for street SUPing everywhere. I always keep<br />

a board and Adjustable big stick in my car encase I get the urge to go for<br />

a skate when I’m away from home (University/Work, I work at adrenalin<br />

Boardstore) My personal favourite combo at the moment is the DB Longboard<br />

Bear and the Bamboo big stick! great fun and very smooth for trips<br />

over 20k. I also have a new board, It’s a custom size and shape I’ve been<br />

working on for a while. It’s 8’ long and closest thing I could get to a SUP on<br />

land, which might make an interesting story. (check pictures attached).<br />

Cheers,<br />

Tommy Jacobson<br />

www.tommyjacobson.com<br />

www.facebook.com/tommyjacobsonofficalpage<br />

THIS PAGE: Chris Anderson with<br />

one of his Coffins, and ACROSS:<br />

A 100-board test photo shoot.<br />

72 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


Where do<br />

surfboards<br />

go to die?<br />

LATEST: CONSCIENCE<br />

This is a question that Chris Anderson asked himself<br />

and the question that has inspired a public art project<br />

and exhibition. As a passionate surfer as well as<br />

designer and artist from the picturesque coastal town of<br />

Kiama, Chris poses this question to the public with his<br />

1000 Surfboard Graveyard - an artwork he’s producing<br />

to raise awareness about unsustainable materials and<br />

wastage of surfboards.<br />

“I aim to collect 1000 broken surfboards from members<br />

of the community and industry,” Chris explains. “I plan<br />

to install them like headstones at a graveyard on Garie<br />

Beach. The installation will be photographed as an<br />

image for an artwork and will be used to make a short<br />

film, which is currently in progress.”<br />

Chris hopes the public artwork will provoke some<br />

thought and open up new conversations on managing<br />

waste and improving the sustainability of surfboards.<br />

He also stresses that the project is not about pointing<br />

a finger or blaming anybody, but is rather intended<br />

to draw attention to the environmental impacts of<br />

surfboard manufacture to those who may not be aware.<br />

According to Chris’ research there are between 47 to<br />

63 million surfboards in circulation worldwide, the vast<br />

majority of which will go to landfill. Recently a few of<br />

them have found a new home instead in Chris’ back yard.<br />

“I am currently storing the surfboards at my home,”<br />

he says. “Mum wasn’t too keen when I told her that<br />

1000 surfboard halves were destined for her backyard.<br />

Dad had a momentary freak-out too. Since I’ve started<br />

collecting them, they have come around. They see my<br />

vision now, and are totally ‘on board.’”<br />

Some of the dead boards have been resurrected, with<br />

Chris turning them into a DIY board he’s calling coffins.<br />

“I just hack them up in to a coffin shape using a saw<br />

and then I use duct tape to seal the foam.” he explains.<br />

“I wanted to show it was something anyone could do.<br />

I’ve never glassed a board anyway. I went as far as<br />

hacking a cross into the nose of one of them, riding that<br />

one at night was something else, seriously spooky!<br />

They are all super fun, and spin really easily.”<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

73


Short boards, mini<br />

mals, mals, logs, fishes,<br />

alaias, whatever you<br />

have laying around in<br />

the shed or even your<br />

pride and joy sitting<br />

in the lounge room...<br />

We want it!<br />

SAVE $!!<br />

Trade in your old<br />

SURFBOARD<br />

against a brand new SUP,<br />

surfboard, kiteboard or<br />

other gear<br />

LEFT: Broken boards<br />

before and BELOW:<br />

re-ridable as coffins.<br />

HOW IT WORKS...<br />

1. Get in touch! Either call or e-mail us<br />

2. Tell us about the board you want to trade and<br />

what new gear you’re after - SUP, surf, kite or wake!<br />

3. Send us a current picture of your<br />

board. We’ll evaluate the trade-in<br />

price and let you know how much it<br />

is worth against your purchase<br />

4. We agree on a price and organise the<br />

collection of your old surfboard and freight<br />

your new board or gear to your door!<br />

WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR?<br />

CONTACT US TODAY and trade that<br />

old surfboard for some new gear!<br />

INTERSTATE?<br />

NO WORRIES!<br />

We’ll even arrange<br />

freight and collection!<br />

"The artwork aims to<br />

provoke conversation and<br />

generate new ideas for<br />

managing this waste."<br />

The progress of the project will be on public display at an exhibition<br />

in the Patagonia Sydney store at 93 Bathurst Street which features<br />

photographs and a short film. Chris will also do a short talk to explain<br />

the project and answer any questions on the night of Thursday,<br />

<strong>November</strong> 17. Other highlights for the evening include a talk by<br />

Dave O’Reilly from Surfing Green about recycled and renewable surf<br />

accessories as well as an eco-board building demonstration by Jason<br />

Wiggers from Samsara Surfboards.<br />

Chris is keen to have more community involvement, so if you have any<br />

broken surfboards he can pick up, if you have any ideas for recycling or<br />

reusing surfboards or simply would like more information, you can email<br />

him on chris_anderson105@hotmail.com and you can follow the project<br />

on Facebook at www.facebook.com/1000SG<br />

For more on the project and eco-friendly surf information:<br />

1000surfboardgraveyard.blogspot.com<br />

www.samsarasurfboards.com<br />

www.surfinggreen.com.au<br />

74 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


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nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

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75


LATEST: TALENT<br />

FIFTEEN YEAR-OLD NOOSA GROM NICK CALLISTER’S PASSION<br />

FOR THE ART OF SURFING IS SO INTENSE, THERE’S NO WAY IT’S<br />

STAYING IN THE WATER. WORDS: MATT MULLENS<br />

FINE<br />

While the Queensland under-16 surfing<br />

representative impresses onlookers with<br />

his natural flair in the surf and a penchant<br />

for charging waves nearly twice his<br />

height, it’s his distinctive, hand-drawn<br />

board designs that are turning heads in<br />

the line-up.<br />

Inspired by the board-art of pro-surfer<br />

Julian Wilson’s mother Nola, Nick started<br />

decorating his own boards a few years<br />

back. Now, a hobby that began as a bit of<br />

fun to pass the swell-deprived days away<br />

has grown into a full-blown obsession.<br />

“I remember seeing what Julian’s mum<br />

had drawn on his boards and they<br />

looked sick, so I wanted to find out how<br />

to do it,” Nick says. “I started on some<br />

old boards with just sort of abstract<br />

designs and worked really hard at it till<br />

I felt confident enough to draw on new<br />

ones without stuffing them up. It’s just<br />

gone on from there really.”<br />

Nick’s artwork reflects his surfing<br />

creativity and usually features clowns,<br />

aliens and big-toothed monsters<br />

depicted with the vibrant, fluorescent<br />

reds, greens and yellows of his<br />

considerable Posca pen collection.<br />

“I’d much rather be making up weird<br />

creatures and experimenting than<br />

doing straight art,” Nick says. “It’s<br />

way more fun and interesting to use<br />

your imagination because you can put<br />

your own stamp on it and show your<br />

individuality. I like weird art that’s<br />

experimental and uses heaps of colour,<br />

like Mambo and Picasso.”<br />

A recent trip to Indonesia provided<br />

Nick with fresh creative fodder, which<br />

he might be drawing on soon after<br />

approaches from fellow surfers keen to<br />

add some style to their own rides.<br />

“I was so inspired by the colours and<br />

masks in Indo,” Nick says. “Some of the<br />

landscapes at Sumbawa were amazing –<br />

the cactus plants, the rusted iron on the<br />

fishing shacks, the old fishing boats.<br />

“People are interested in my designs<br />

and some have asked me to work on<br />

their boards. I’m actually starting to<br />

LINES<br />

make a litle bit of money out of it, which<br />

is pretty cool.”<br />

“I WAS SO INSPIRED<br />

BY THE COLOURS<br />

AND MASKS IN INDO”<br />

Nick’s favourite board – a Shotgun 5’5 –<br />

also features what he rates as his most<br />

creative design. But it’s pretty out there,<br />

so best let him describe it.<br />

“The bottom has an alien-type face with<br />

a lolly-pop head or something,” Nick<br />

laughs. “There’s a big, crazy clown face<br />

on the nose end with heaps of bright,<br />

flouro greens and blues, surrounded<br />

with odd shapes and patterns. It’s like<br />

most of my art, I use a lot of colours and<br />

strange shapes and faces to make it<br />

stand out.”<br />

76 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


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nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

77


LATEST: IMAGES<br />

GRANT SAYS...<br />

My brother Russ in a late afternoon tube<br />

during the week long run of pumping waves<br />

in July this year. Shelly Beach.<br />

78 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


THEGRANT<br />

MOLONY<br />

P O R T F O L I O<br />

There must be something in the air<br />

on the Central Coast. Aside from<br />

consistently delivering good surfers<br />

and musicians to the nation, the<br />

region is starting to prove it has its<br />

fair share of talented photographers<br />

too. In past issues, we’ve featured<br />

some of the adept surfers out of the<br />

area and photos taken by some locals<br />

including Justin Allport. Now it’s time<br />

to put another photographer-slashwaterbaby<br />

in the frame and find out<br />

more about the man behind the lens...<br />

WORDS: AIMEE SICS<br />

Keen to see the world himself, Grant<br />

continued to broaden his Drop Knee interests,<br />

traversing across the globe in search of ideal<br />

waves and seeking friendly competition. From<br />

Tahiti to Hawaii, Japan to Ireland and Cuba<br />

to El Salvador, the travel bug bit him hard and<br />

only enthused him even more.<br />

So, this habitual traveller was inspired and<br />

further encouraged to purchase his first<br />

professional camera. Seeing the world and<br />

the water from this unique perspective, Grant<br />

wanted to extend this vision to be shared<br />

with the world. The seamless transition into<br />

photography seemed only natural - a merging<br />

of his life’s passions.<br />

Born and bred on the coast, Grant Molony<br />

sure is one of those gifted types we’re<br />

talking about. Not only does the professional<br />

photographer have a knack for clicking away<br />

and taking awesome shots of the surf, Grant<br />

also has three Australasian and three National<br />

Drop Knee (bodyboarding) titles under his belt.<br />

No stranger to the water, it was obvious that<br />

the youngest of five boys - three of whom use<br />

the stand up variety - would grow a love for<br />

the ocean too.<br />

Since venturing into the field of photography<br />

at the start of 2009, Grant hasn’t stopped. A<br />

self-confessed perfectionist, he goes beyond<br />

the conventional and is constantly conveying<br />

his creativity, if not through the lens then with<br />

ink on a canvas. His blog, grantmolonyphoto.<br />

blogspot.com, displays everything from his<br />

portfolio pieces to art he’s completed when<br />

there were no waves to be found.<br />

“I’ve been playing around with ink on canvas<br />

for a while now, mainly animals,” he says. “For<br />

some reason, nature is a recurring theme.”<br />

With a clan of five brothers, Grant would<br />

always trek along to the beach with the older<br />

boys. Fortunately, talent runs rife in this family:<br />

brother Russell is a competitive surfer and has<br />

enjoyed much success, making him a decent<br />

subject for Grant to shoot in the water.<br />

He’s also quite fond of collecting old cameras.<br />

“I’m addicted to relics. Last count, I had over<br />

sixty on the shelf...”<br />

The travel bug is well and truly still alive.<br />

Seeing the world and soaking up different<br />

cultures encourages Grant to capture not<br />

only the water, but an array of subjects - from<br />

people to landscapes, weddings to still life.<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

79


I love to shoot empty waves, the<br />

oceans finger prints. Water and<br />

light captured in a moment this is<br />

Samoa from May this year.<br />

The most simple raw form<br />

of wave riding just body and<br />

energy. Mitch Cox getting back<br />

to the roots, Soldiers Beach.<br />

80 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


THEGRANT<br />

MOLONY<br />

P O R T F O L I O<br />

Marcus Davidson, owner of<br />

Boarderline Surf & Skate and<br />

also my boss, with an early<br />

punt before opening the shop.<br />

Russ and a glimpse into the<br />

underwater world. A fisheye<br />

view of a pigdog tube.<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

81


LATEST: IMAGES<br />

“THERE’S NOTHING LIKE<br />

COMING BACK AND SURFING<br />

YOUR LOCAL BREAK WITH<br />

YOUR MATES. FOLLOWED BY A<br />

BYTHS MEXICAN BURGER…”<br />

82 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


THEGRANT<br />

MOLONY<br />

P O R T F O L I O<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

83


In the past year, surfing trips to Peru, Japan, Hawaii and Samoa have<br />

furthered his ability to create inspiring images that are not going<br />

unnoticed.<br />

“Japan is amazing,” he tells us. “The people are incredible. The<br />

contrast between the old and the new and how they effortlessly work<br />

together is just nuts.”<br />

In terms of photography, the dream destination has been Tahiti. “The<br />

colours and waves... It’s everything a photographer could ask for.<br />

Shame I didn’t have my setup back then!”<br />

Next stamp for the passport?<br />

“So many! Wave-wise it would have to be Cloud 9. That’s always been<br />

on the list.”<br />

Time abroad has meant he’s surfed some exciting places, but it’s at<br />

North Shelly that Grant feels most at home and loves the most.<br />

ABOVE: Grant self portrait while hard at work, or play, or both.<br />

“There’s nothing like coming back and surfing your local break with your<br />

mates. Followed by a Byths Mexican burger…”<br />

While at home, Grant has been working at Boarderline Surf and Skate,<br />

Long Jetty, for over ten years, which means he’s well acquainted with<br />

everything related to surfing.<br />

Gear wise, he’s a Canon man through and through. “I think it’s kinda<br />

like Coke or Pepsi- you are one or the other. But in saying that, a few<br />

people in the industry have been changing teams!”<br />

With a Canon 50d and Dave Kelly custom housing, the Tokina fisheye<br />

is good fun, but hands down his favourite lens would be the 50mm.<br />

“Definitely for the water. I wish I could afford the 1.2... Maybe one day!”<br />

The way things are gearing up, the lens and travel he’s after could<br />

just be around the corner. The future certainly looks bright as<br />

he’s now also selling his prints framed, unframed and on canvas.<br />

There’s no doubt with his style that we’ll continue to see even more<br />

impressive work in the future.<br />

“I want to build things slowly and keep all sales personal to give my<br />

work meaning.”<br />

We look forward to seeing it all along the way.<br />

grantmolonyphoto.blogspot.com<br />

www.krop.com/grantmolony<br />

84 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


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nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

85


FREE<br />

THINKERS<br />

THE THRILL OF RIDING A WAVE IS AN INDIVIDUAL PURSUIT. SURE WE MAY SHARE<br />

OUR ENJOYMENT WITH OTHERS AROUND US BUT THE PLEASURE DERIVED FROM<br />

SURFING IS PERSONAL. OUR CHOICE OF SURF CRAFT IS ALSO AN INDEPENDENT<br />

DECISION. BUT HOW MUCH HAVE OUR OPINIONS ABOUT SURFBOARD DESIGN BEEN<br />

FORMED BY THE SURF MEDIA? WORDS: DAVE SWAN<br />

88 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


Have surfers transformed from the free-thinking,<br />

free-spirited souls of our forefathers to a conservative<br />

bunch of conformists happy to consume homogenous<br />

mass produced surfboards...<br />

or are we coming<br />

about full circle?<br />

The increasing variety of craft hitting the water<br />

nowadays suggests a shift in the psyche of the<br />

Australian surfer. Emerging from what could be argued<br />

as a period of stifled creativity, where ideas on the<br />

fringe were sidelined, surfers appear to be once again<br />

focused on what works as opposed to how it looks.<br />

After all, functional design is much more fun. If you<br />

can’t surf like a pro, don’t ride a pro board. And with<br />

that, minds are opening up to new possibilities in<br />

design and construction methods.<br />

But with this growing acceptance of innovative design,<br />

is it time to push the boundaries even further? What<br />

new frontiers lie on the horizon? We talk with six<br />

shapers we have met on our travels who have never<br />

been known to toe the line of the status quo.<br />

LATEST: DEBATE<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

89


Modern<br />

Flextail<br />

1978 Flextail<br />

Mitchell Rae<br />

Outer Island<br />

Surfboards<br />

INTRO: Alchemist of soul surfing<br />

HAILS FROM: Dee Why, NSW<br />

NOW LIVES: NSW north coast, not<br />

far from Coffs Harbour<br />

SHAPING: Professionally, 40 years<br />

SHAPES: All manner of craft from<br />

performance shortboards, guns and<br />

longboards through to collectable<br />

balsa boards<br />

WHO BETTER TO START OUR DISCUSSION ON SURFBOARD DESIGN<br />

THAN MITCHELL RAE...<br />

Over the course of my travels up and down the coast with smorgasboarder,<br />

his name is regularly mentioned, in many circles. To say he is respected<br />

and revered as a master craftsman amongst his peers would be a huge<br />

understatement.<br />

Mitchell is admired for being his own man. Never one to beat to the sound<br />

of someone else’s drum, he has always preferred to cut his own path. He is<br />

widely recognised as an innovative shaper prepared to push the boundaries<br />

of design, namely in the field of flex. His brave pursuit of flex coupled with his<br />

stoic stance on design principles has seen him develop a very loyal following.<br />

“Over the years I have explored new concepts, exploratory work, with no<br />

existing reference points. It can be very lonely pursuing new ideas. In ’69<br />

when boards had rolled bottoms with S decks and no edges, I was exploring<br />

extreme designs with deep concaves and razor edges which were very<br />

confronting and took a long time to gain acceptance and become integrated<br />

within mainstream design.<br />

“With evolving a design, I often take it to the absolute extreme, explore<br />

the boundaries, and often bring it back to a less extreme form to achieve a<br />

balanced, user-friendly shape.”<br />

WHY ARE SO FEW PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES OF DESIGN?<br />

“We’re hamstrung by ‘fashion’ trends. I think they limit design progression.<br />

People can be very reluctant to embrace new ideas unless they are endorsed<br />

by the pros.<br />

“Because everyone surfs differently, I am mixing a recipe of design elements to suit the individual<br />

surfer. Surfers have different approaches to wave riding, as individual as a fingerprint.”<br />

90 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


“I enjoy shaping custom boards<br />

to suit the individual. Because<br />

everyone surfs differently, I am<br />

mixing a recipe of design elements<br />

to suit the individual surfer.<br />

Surfers have different approaches<br />

to wave riding, as individual as a<br />

fingerprint. Most of my clients are<br />

repeats and I get to know what<br />

works for them.”<br />

You only have to look around<br />

Mitchell’s workshop to understand<br />

the variety of boards he shapes.<br />

“I do believe surfers are starting<br />

to embrace innovative design once<br />

more. The whole retro movement<br />

is evidence of that. I think surfers<br />

have been so polarised by the pro<br />

dynamic, with everyone riding<br />

boards driven by the pro surfing<br />

criteria. Not everyone surfs that<br />

way… I think people are starting<br />

to realise that there is a much<br />

wider range of choice and that<br />

those ‘other’ boards just may suit<br />

their surfing more.“<br />

Shaping<br />

is an<br />

artform<br />

Aside from being a shaper,<br />

Mitchell has other outlets for<br />

his creativity. He is also an<br />

accomplished artist. He paints and<br />

sculpts.<br />

“Making a piece of art is a<br />

satisfying thing...<br />

“Shaping takes it to another level.<br />

When you ride the board you can<br />

feel the ideas and design science<br />

at work, make assessments of<br />

the results, refine and evolve the<br />

concept. I think shaping can be the<br />

most rewarding art form of all.<br />

“It’s like sculpture. Inside every<br />

blank is a beautiful board. You<br />

are paring away all the excess<br />

until you reveal that idea you have<br />

in your mind. That is the art of<br />

shaping.”<br />

WHAT HAS LEAD THE<br />

RENAISSANCE OF<br />

SURFBOARD SHAPING?<br />

Mitchell explains how mass<br />

produced boards made on a tight<br />

timeline and budget has lead to<br />

what could only be referred to as<br />

the ‘disposable age’. This coupled<br />

with tight economic conditions<br />

has prompted surfers to seek out<br />

quality craftsmanship once more.<br />

“The board industry has gone the<br />

way of the Japanese chopstick…<br />

total disposability. I’m looking to<br />

build durable, reliable boards. You<br />

don’t want to be a few days into<br />

your surf trip to paradise and have<br />

equipment failure.<br />

“Producing small numbers of<br />

top shelf boards, we can lavish<br />

more time on each one. At the<br />

laminating stage we apply the<br />

fibreglass under tension like<br />

a drum skin, slow cure resin<br />

mixes allow time for full foam<br />

penetration. Pulling the fibres into<br />

a diagonal with wider laps, using<br />

the materials to the maximum,<br />

adds no weight and gives a more<br />

durable board.”<br />

Technology has been a catalyst in<br />

driving the evolution of shaping in<br />

both a negative and positive sense.<br />

“One of the downfalls is that<br />

everything is homogenised. You<br />

can walk through a surf shop and<br />

all the boards are the same apart<br />

for the branding. Most shapes are<br />

coming off the machines, leaving<br />

very little room for individuality.<br />

“A lot of young shapers are going<br />

straight to the design software<br />

and shaping machines, bypassing<br />

the learning ground of basic tool<br />

skills… put them in a shaping<br />

room with a blank and a planer<br />

and they are lost.<br />

“The adverse reaction to this<br />

has been more surfers are now<br />

pursuing custom shapes, once<br />

again driving innovation.<br />

“Modern technology has also had<br />

a positive impact on innovation in<br />

terms of the materials available to<br />

board builders such as carbon fibre<br />

and different types of foam. The<br />

surf industry has always sought<br />

new materials that have floated<br />

down from aerospace technology<br />

and the like.“<br />

“The movement toward retro<br />

shapes, single fins, fish etc. has<br />

many positive aspects, in that a<br />

number of younger shapers are<br />

exploring the basics, shaping by<br />

hand, doing quality laminates<br />

with tints, pigments and gloss<br />

finishes and keeping traditional<br />

techniques alive - keeping the<br />

soul in shaping.”<br />

The<br />

quest<br />

for flex<br />

“Flex has been the Holy Grail to<br />

me. Flex is the best way to give<br />

an inanimate object life. It allows<br />

the surfer to change the formula<br />

while riding a wave. Flexible forms<br />

can change shape while in motion.<br />

It generates propulsion, like a<br />

dolphin’s tail, producing forward<br />

drive.<br />

“George is the godfather of<br />

flex. He is still to my mind the<br />

guru master and is responsible<br />

for many innovations, a real<br />

out-of-the-box thinker. Surfing at<br />

Lennox with George, Brocky and<br />

the Wilderness crew, McTavish<br />

and Nat, we all were riding solid<br />

shapes and there George was on<br />

his little flexible spoon. He was<br />

getting in and out of spaces that<br />

we couldn’t get to and we were all<br />

like, ‘What’s going on here?’<br />

“With a regular board, it’s a<br />

fixed object so you are surfing<br />

around a certain set of curves<br />

and parameters. You can only do<br />

what is possible with that shape.<br />

By virtue of so much flex in his<br />

board, George was able to alter<br />

its shape and warp it into the<br />

shape of the wave.<br />

“My first dabble into flex was<br />

when I made a custom order<br />

kneeboard for a mate of mine,<br />

Andrew Whitton (R.I.P.) I actually<br />

surfed it standing up at Ulus and<br />

was blown away.<br />

“George was prepared to sacrifice<br />

paddling power entirely, to take<br />

all the foam out of the board and<br />

use fins to catch waves. Being a<br />

stand up surfer I wanted to be able<br />

to paddle the boards and get into<br />

waves so I couldn’t take the same<br />

approach to achieving flex as<br />

George did. Influenced by George,<br />

I take a lot of inspiration from<br />

the natural world, looking at the<br />

way fish, their fins, birds and their<br />

wings are designed and function. “<br />

WHY HASN’T FLEX CAUGHT<br />

ON IN MAINSTREAM SURFING<br />

SOONER?<br />

“It does still surprise that it hasn’t<br />

been popularised. One reason is<br />

it is labour intensive. There are<br />

no short cuts to making a proper<br />

flextail. The labour and material<br />

factor is up and they don’t suit a<br />

production line either. It’s good to<br />

see some people are starting to<br />

explore flex patterns and concepts<br />

. Flex still remains an unexplored<br />

area for many surfers.”<br />

HOW DO YOU CREATE FLEX IN<br />

YOUR BOARDS?<br />

Outer Island Surfboards is<br />

renowned as a world leader in flex<br />

technology, with flextails, carbon<br />

fibre controlled flex patterns, the<br />

use of timber in specific functions,<br />

to control the overall flex pattern<br />

of a surfboard and their most<br />

recent innovation in design, the<br />

V2 Flex.<br />

Mtchell’s original flextails were<br />

made of fiberglass and polyester<br />

resin, tapering out very thin like<br />

a fin, which worked well but<br />

sacrificed a lot of paddle power.<br />

Since the 80’s and the availability<br />

of new materials, Mitchell uses<br />

carbon fibre (which has superior<br />

flex properties) and a flexible<br />

foam (borrowed from boogy<br />

board technology) which restores<br />

the original foil, buoyancy and<br />

paddling power.<br />

Mitchell says that flex works in guns<br />

and longer boards equally well.<br />

He calls his latest approach to<br />

achieving flex ‘V2 Flex’. It is<br />

beautiful in its simplicity and<br />

is about utilising the natural<br />

properties of the materials to<br />

their fullest by controlling the<br />

flex pattern with 2 stringers<br />

in an inverted V shape. These<br />

converge at the nose and exit<br />

the tail rail forward of the fins,<br />

giving increased rigidity in<br />

the body of the board and flex<br />

through the tail section.<br />

“It’s about controlling the overall<br />

flex pattern of the board…putting<br />

the flex where you want it. Most<br />

boards have some belly flex, which<br />

slows the board down. Early ‘90s<br />

experiments with carbon rails<br />

improved the flex pattern, which<br />

we still use in our ‘Stealth’ range,<br />

but I believe the timber stringers<br />

impart a more organic feel of flex.<br />

Customer feedback on our V2 Flex<br />

has been extraordinary. For the<br />

last 3 years we have been making<br />

over 90% of our boards that way.”<br />

Mitchell’s most advanced designs<br />

combine the V2 Flex with his<br />

original carbon Flextail taking flex<br />

to another level.<br />

LATEST: DEBATE<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

91


Mark Rabbidge<br />

Rabbidge<br />

Surf Designs<br />

and Retro<br />

Longboards<br />

INTRO: Runner up in the 1987 World<br />

Title, Mark is not only a capable surfer<br />

but an accomplished shaper having<br />

worked for many of Brookvale’s iconic<br />

surfboard manufacturers before starting<br />

his own brand.<br />

HAILS FROM: Northern Beaches, NSW<br />

NOW LIVES: Bendalong, NSW South Coast<br />

SHAPING: 46 years<br />

SHAPES: A surfer who rides equipment<br />

to suit the conditions means he has<br />

an open mind to design and has a long<br />

history with alternative boards from<br />

fish to fatboys, guns, mals, finless,<br />

asymmetricals and shortboards.<br />

Mark Rabbidge<br />

Photo: Dave Swan<br />

92 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


Mick Rabbidge with a few of his dad’s finless creations<br />

FOR MARK RABBIDGE, THE CONTINUAL<br />

PURSUIT OF INNOVATIVE SURFBOARD<br />

DESIGN IS JUST SOMETHING HE DOES.<br />

BUT WHY AREN’T MORE SHAPERS<br />

FOLLOWING SUIT? MARK IS BLUNT IN HIS<br />

ASSESSMENT.<br />

“A lot of guys just creep because they are trying<br />

to make retail surfboards. They are too scared to<br />

make something ‘out there’ because they may<br />

not be able to sell it. If you go to a big surf store<br />

nowadays it looks like the whitegoods department<br />

at Harvey Norman, all the boards standing up in a<br />

row. They pretty much look the same. How would<br />

you pick one?<br />

“Me, I don’t give a care if I sell it. I just want to<br />

ride different boards to see what they do on a<br />

wave. After all, it’s about riding the wave and not<br />

the board.<br />

“Back in 1962 when I rode a kneeboard and stood<br />

up on it, that was different. (laughs) A different<br />

feel is what I want, what I am constantly seeking.”<br />

Mark’s reference to kneeboarding piques my<br />

interest. In my travels, I have encountered a lot of<br />

surfers who believe kneeboard shapers to be more<br />

progressive than surfboard shapers. I asked Mark<br />

for his opinion.<br />

“Hell yeah, because you don’t see kneeboards in<br />

most retail shops. They don’t have to conform.<br />

Kneeboard shapers tailor make all their boards<br />

to suit the individual customer. There are no<br />

fashionable fads to adhere to that have been set<br />

by the major clothing companies and the media.<br />

“For me, the varied stuff I build is fun. They all go<br />

different but they go unreal.”<br />

CUSTOM BOARDS ARE WHAT DRIVE<br />

INNOVATION<br />

“Nothing is experimentation for me. I have been<br />

shaping for a long time. You see I just make<br />

surfboards for people. I don’t have to make lots<br />

and lots of the same board for the retail rack. I<br />

make them for individuals. So when a person<br />

comes to me, I take down a lot of information. It<br />

may not be length or thickness that comes into<br />

play but where they want to surf, how they want<br />

to surf, what kind of feel they are after and what<br />

boards they have enjoyed in the past.<br />

“With all that said, if you are going to shape<br />

thousands of surfboards you are going to get a<br />

lemon every now and again. It happens. Hell, I<br />

am not perfect. But even with them, what doesn’t<br />

work for someone goes unreal for someone else.<br />

are crazy so you design a board that goes right<br />

very efficiently.”<br />

GROWING ACCEPTANCE OF INNOVATIVE<br />

DESIGN<br />

“I think we are in a really good space at the<br />

moment. I like what is going on. I think there is<br />

less conformity in surfing these days and people<br />

are just out to simply enjoy themselves. There<br />

used to be a stigma about what you rode but<br />

nowadays it is less and less.<br />

“My ten year old rides everything - long, short,<br />

bodyboards… everything and anything. Ultimately<br />

we are riding waves. That’s where I think it is at.<br />

“For me, at my age, I can’t surf the way I used<br />

to, so there is no point trying and no point riding<br />

that same equipment. The only way I can find<br />

out what is going to be fun is to explore new<br />

ideas… to find new challenges. It is not with<br />

the view to telling everyone, ‘this is the latest<br />

and greatest’. It’s just to enjoy it.”<br />

PNG<br />

Lissenung Island Resort<br />

Kavieng - New Ireland<br />

Saturday to Saturday<br />

Clem’s Place<br />

Lavongai - New Hanover<br />

Talk to the experts.<br />

surftravel.com.au<br />

What the<br />

future holds<br />

“What I really want to get into is recycled<br />

products. I want to go to the tip and look around<br />

and go, ‘Ohh, I can surf that.’ Whatever it may be, I<br />

want to make it into an item I can surf.’<br />

Neil Cameron, an innovative kneeboard shaper<br />

who happened to call in to Mark’s when I visited,<br />

told us a story of when Bruce Raymond was<br />

travelling with a bunch of Hawaiian waterman<br />

who ride anything and everything.<br />

Apparently Bruce saw one of them had a plastic<br />

dinner tray in his bag. He used it as a paipo board.<br />

It was then that he discovered they all had one -<br />

Kentucky Fried Chicken dinner trays! When Bruce<br />

quizzed them about using McDonalds dinner trays<br />

instead, they informed him they didn’t work.<br />

(laughing) “You see. That is where it is at. I want<br />

to be able to go to the tip and build a board out of<br />

some French doors and go, ‘Hey this one with the<br />

lead light windows in it goes better.’ That is the<br />

future of revolutionary board building to me.”<br />

enquiries@surftravel.com.au<br />

02 9222 8870<br />

Surf Travel Company<br />

“I just enjoy making all kinds of boards – mals,<br />

logs, retro boards… you know, stingers, singlefins,<br />

performance shortboards, finless… even<br />

asymmetricals. I mean asymmetricals are a very<br />

functional piece of equipment. They are completely<br />

different surfboards either side of the stringer from<br />

the nose through to the tail including the fin set<br />

up. Different length, different volume rails… you<br />

name it. They are designed specifically for unique<br />

point breaks like the right-hander at Jeffreys Bay<br />

in South Africa. You don’t go left there unless you<br />

There is only one original ...<br />

Surf Travel Company<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

93<br />

Smorgasboard_1/4pages_D01.indd 1 13/06/11 6:00 PM


Mick Mackie<br />

Mackie<br />

Surfboards<br />

INTRO: Accomplished surfer, snowboarder,<br />

skateboarder and shaper.<br />

HAILS FROM: Cronulla, NSW<br />

NOW LIVES: Ulladulla, NSW<br />

SHAPING: 28 years since 1984<br />

SHAPES: Hybrids, fishes, single fins, guns,<br />

asymmetricals and flextails.<br />

LEADING SURF<br />

AND STREET WEAR,<br />

SURFBOARDS, WETSUITS<br />

AND ACCESSORIES...<br />

WE ONLY SELL THE GEAR<br />

THAT WE USE IN THE<br />

WATER OURSELVES!<br />

SURFWAREAUSTRALIA<br />

SUNSHINE COAST SUPERSTORE<br />

2 Bulcock Street, Caloundra QLD 4551 Tel (07) 5491 3620<br />

Open Mon to Sat, 9am to 5pm and Sun 9am to 4pm. Closed Christmas Day<br />

ANOTHER SHAPER IMMERSED IN PROGRESSIVE<br />

DESIGN AND REVERED FOR CRAFTING<br />

INDIVIDUALISTIC BOARDS IS NSW SOUTH COAST<br />

SHAPER MICK MACKIE.<br />

Having honed his craft under industry legends Terry<br />

Fitzgerald and John Harris, Mick now shapes a diverse<br />

array of surfboards and like Mitchell Rae and Mark<br />

Rabbidge; he too has developed a very loyal following.<br />

However it’s Mick’s experimentation with flextails<br />

that has truly ignited his passion. Mick explains his<br />

newfound obsession.<br />

“I have gone off normal boards because they haven’t<br />

got the juice mate - the whip and the speed that the<br />

flex boards have.<br />

“I grew up riding shortboards but I kinda got sick of it<br />

and wanted to go somewhere else with it. So that is<br />

what I did. I started riding different stuff and feeling<br />

different things – chasing the feeling.<br />

“To me normal boards are a rigid dead object in the<br />

water, whereas the flex is bending and warping. It allows<br />

you to load it and release it. With a normal board it is<br />

almost like you are overpowering it to push it through the<br />

turns. With the flex you are running with the wave. You<br />

caress it through and let it run and it does it all for you.”<br />

HIS INSPIRATION<br />

“Alot of guys have played around with flextails but to me<br />

George Greenough and Mitchell Rae are the masters.<br />

“George was the man. He started it all. Sure a lot of<br />

people may say, ‘Oh he was just a kneeboarder.’ Watch<br />

the footage of him and freeze-frame it on the apex of<br />

his turns and see what he is doing.<br />

“I watched kneeboarders when I was a kid at Cronulla<br />

Point and Shark Island and the guys I watched there<br />

were pulling as heavy a line or more so. I was like, ‘Hang<br />

on, who are these guys.’ My mate’s dad rode flextail<br />

spoons so it was just normal stuff to me. It wasn’t<br />

anything outrageous or defunct.<br />

“You can learn from everything mate. I have kept it all<br />

in me head. Then when I went snowboarding I thought,<br />

“Now hang on - these boards flex. Well now I might do<br />

that... And put hard edges on my boards.”<br />

THE FUTURO ROCKET FISH<br />

With that, Mackie has taken his own innovative<br />

approach to flextails. He has used the Winterstick<br />

snowboard as the basis for his inspiration.<br />

94 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


Mick Mackie<br />

Photo: Dave Swan<br />

LATEST: DEBATE<br />

“With a number of other flextails, the flex is<br />

only in the tail section of the board whereas<br />

with my Futuro Rocket Fish the flex is are under<br />

your entire back foot. These boards feature a<br />

really thin edge on the tail like a snowboard so<br />

when you are running your turns you have total<br />

bite. The sidecut creates real feeling in your<br />

turns and in fact accentuates them because you<br />

are following the same arc.<br />

“When you combine these elements and put<br />

heaps of pressure on the tail it will flex and<br />

shorten your tail rocker. This allows you to<br />

make tighter turns that you can then whip out<br />

of, or you can draw a long arc if you just hold it<br />

through the turns like you would with any fish.“<br />

THE TAIL<br />

“The board also features a deep concave that<br />

compensates for the lessened floatation of<br />

a normal board. Because the last third of the<br />

board is so thin, the deep concave gives you<br />

lift and speed.<br />

“My flextail is made from uni-directional carbon<br />

weave so it will flex both up and down as well<br />

as across the tail. It warps with the wave face.<br />

The board itself is an epoxy construction and is<br />

nice and thick because of the volume that has<br />

been removed from the tail. It makes the board<br />

easy to paddle and more lively.”<br />

THE FINS<br />

“The boards feature low profile keel fins which<br />

lessen drag and increase speed. The thin<br />

‘snowboard-like rail’ lessens the need for high<br />

fins and heightens control.”<br />

FUTURE PLANS FOR THE FUTURO<br />

“At this stage the Futuro Rocket Fish are just<br />

projects. They are my personal boards. I haven’t<br />

made them for anyone else. I just find nowadays I<br />

have to put flex in all of my own personal boards.<br />

That is just what I have arrived at for me.”<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

95


“For many years a lot of people<br />

thought I was a tripper. The flextail<br />

concept was just too much for the<br />

everyday surfer to take on board.<br />

Now there appears to be a newfound<br />

awareness and interest in flextails.”<br />

Jed Done<br />

Bushrat<br />

Surfboards<br />

INTRO: Dedicated craftsman and<br />

creator of the ‘Wave house’ as<br />

featured in the recent September<br />

edition of smorgasboarder.<br />

HAILS FROM: Merimbula, NSW<br />

NOW LIVES: Merimbula, NSW<br />

SHAPING: 22 years<br />

SHAPES: Reverse-curve flextails,<br />

performance shortboards, quads,<br />

guns, single fins, twin fins,<br />

performance mals, logs, finless<br />

creations and the signature model<br />

Derek Hynd classic keel-fin fish.<br />

Jed ‘Bushrat’ Done<br />

Photo: Dave Swan<br />

96 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


THE HUNDREDS OF BOARDS THROUGHOUT JED DONE’S WORKSHOP BEAR<br />

TESTAMENT HIS ABSOLUTE DEVOTION TO HIS CRAFT AND TO JED’S CONTINUAL<br />

EXPERIMENTATION WITH SURFBOARD DESIGN.<br />

Indeed his shed is littered with all manner of<br />

surfboards. But whilst he is constantly refining<br />

and perfecting his take on modern surfboard<br />

design, his efforts are largely concentrated on<br />

his flextails. He is particularly hooked to the<br />

speed they generate and the classic lines they<br />

draw.<br />

“For me, flextails go better than anything else.<br />

From punchy closeouts to point breaks you<br />

can’t beat flextails for speed off the mark.<br />

Normal boards just don’t work as well.<br />

“For many years a lot of people thought I<br />

was a tripper. The flextail concept was just<br />

too much for the everyday surfer to take on<br />

board. Now there appears to be a new-found<br />

awareness and interest in flextails.”<br />

Why regular<br />

boards just<br />

don’t cut it<br />

“Regular boards just go slow. They push<br />

water. They turn because they bog. The<br />

hydrodynamics of their design are out of sync<br />

with the wave.<br />

“Flextails, more specifically those with a<br />

negative tail rocker where the tail of the board<br />

turns down, are speed machines.”<br />

THE THEORY BEHIND NEGATIVE ROCKER<br />

AND TAIL FLEX<br />

“Boards with negative tail rocker capitalise<br />

on the straight-line speed benefits of a board<br />

with minimal rocker, such as a classic single<br />

fin. The flex gives the board a variable tail<br />

rocker that twists and flexes into the shape of<br />

the wave when it is under load. It then springs<br />

back, giving you speed.<br />

“The more positive tail lift you have on a<br />

board the looser it is, because more drag is<br />

created, which is what you get in the majority<br />

of modern boards. If you stand on a board with<br />

a lot of tail rocker, the nose will lift up and<br />

you will bog. The board is effectively looser<br />

but slower. Everything is a compromise. The<br />

problem is that half the time you’re trying to<br />

generate speed on a board that has a tail only<br />

designed to turn.<br />

“Conversely, an old single fin will glide<br />

through fat sections and trim faster than a<br />

regular tail lift surfboard because of its flatter<br />

tail rocker. But its weight, length, plan shape<br />

and rigid rocker often restrict it, making them<br />

hard to turn in the pocket.<br />

“A reverse curve flextail has a negative<br />

tail rocker in its unloaded position. The tail<br />

actually turns down where the board flexes<br />

just behind the back fin. When you stand<br />

towards the back of the board, the board<br />

will level out to the angle the tail was in. It<br />

actually lifts the tail up, pushing the nose<br />

down so the board planes faster and greatly<br />

reduces the amount of water the board pushes.<br />

“As you turn the board, the fins hold the rail<br />

in the water, allowing your back foot to push<br />

against the flex, loading it into a positive position.<br />

Once your weight is transferred from rail to rail<br />

the resistance against the flex is reduced and<br />

the tail springs back into its unloaded negative<br />

position. This results in forward drive. Speed!<br />

“A first time rider of a flextail will feel a<br />

sensation of wanting to fall off the back of the<br />

board after every turn. It doesn’t take long to<br />

understand the way the board moves and work<br />

with it. But when you hop back on a regular<br />

board with positive tail lift you feel like the<br />

board bogs – like someone has tied a brick to<br />

your leg rope!”<br />

A DIFFERENT STYLE OF SURFING<br />

“Riding a flextail is all about flow, placement<br />

and timing. You want to complete each turn so<br />

you have that power drive as opposed to tictacking<br />

the board and creating sudden changes<br />

of direction. It is more about drawing clean<br />

lines and gathering momentum and speed.<br />

“Turns want to be linked. Flextails work best<br />

when the tail is continuously flexing from a<br />

negative to a positive rocker. They don’t lose<br />

track. The flextail likes to carve - like the line<br />

a single fin would take. It’s not like you flick<br />

off the back of a wave saying ‘Wow, I did five<br />

turns on that wave!’ It’s more like every turn<br />

on that wave is so linked that the whole thing<br />

feels like one big maneuver.<br />

“Flextails suit surfers with what you would<br />

call a ‘classic style’.”<br />

CHANNELING ENERGY TO THE TAIL<br />

“In addition to the flextail, I’ve been playing<br />

with a wedge-shaped stringer that I mill out<br />

of western red cedar. It’s between 15-18mm<br />

at the nose and 3-4mm by the time it gets<br />

right to the tip of the tail. The rationale<br />

behind it is to make the board stiffer at the<br />

front so it flexes evenly going out towards<br />

the tail. It will direct the energy towards<br />

the flextail further heightening the board’s<br />

performance and flow.”<br />

FIJI<br />

Tavarua Island Resort<br />

Namotu Island Resort<br />

Plantation Island Resort<br />

Walu Beach Resort<br />

Mamanuca Island Group –<br />

West Coast Fiji<br />

Sonaisali Island Resort<br />

Intercontinental Fiji Golf & Spa<br />

Viti Levu – South West Coast<br />

Mainland<br />

Hideaway Resort<br />

Waidroka Bay Resort<br />

Matanivusi Surf Resort<br />

Viti Levu – Coral Coast<br />

Mainland<br />

Yanuca Island<br />

East Coast Fiji<br />

Naninya Island Resort<br />

Cape Washington<br />

Kadavu Fiji<br />

Tau Surf Charters<br />

Remote Islands of Fiji<br />

Talk to the experts.<br />

surftravel.com.au<br />

enquiries@surftravel.com.au<br />

02 9222 8870<br />

Surf Travel Company<br />

There is only one original ...<br />

Surf Travel Company<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

97


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SOME SHAPERS HAVE STEERED AWAY<br />

FROM CONVENTIONAL WISDOM AND<br />

THINKING. GLENN ‘CAT’ COLLINS HAS<br />

SET SAIL ON HIS OWN DIRECTION AND<br />

IS OVER 2000 MILES OFF COURSE…<br />

WELL, FROM THE NORM THAT IS.<br />

As he so eloquently put’s it, as only Glen<br />

‘Cat’ can, “F#*K everyone else, can we<br />

please just move forward. Everyone is<br />

experimenting but they are just recycling<br />

ideas rather than pushing the boundaries. It’s<br />

been done before. Move on!<br />

“I just want to blow minds. So many surfers<br />

are so close-minded these days I want to<br />

open their minds to different trips. If you<br />

know my whole history with boards my<br />

intention is just to f*#k with everything.”<br />

But there is method to his madness. Born<br />

and bred on Sydney’s Northern Beaches,<br />

Glen ‘cat’ starting surfing Freshwater Beach<br />

in the late ‘60s when his parents bought him<br />

a Midget Farrelly Pro Champ Foamie.<br />

By the late ‘70s his obsession with surfing<br />

grew and he took an interest to the shaping<br />

side of surfboards where he learnt the<br />

basics from Greg Clough at Aloha Surfboards<br />

in Brookvale. Glen ‘Cat’ later worked for<br />

McGrigor Surfboards before Sydney property<br />

prices skyrocketed and he moved north, first<br />

to Noosa and then to Agnes, where he set up<br />

his present day design lab. At this northern<br />

outpost of surfing on Australia’s eastern<br />

seaboard he ended up becoming neighbours<br />

with the equally talented and eccentric<br />

shaper, Erle Pederson.<br />

DESIGN PHILOSOPHIES<br />

“Most people who make surfboards have to<br />

make a living, now the unfortunate thing for<br />

them is they can only experiment within a<br />

bee’s dick here and there. With my clientele,<br />

they order the size of board they want and<br />

perhaps how many fins they are after and<br />

they have no say after that. They don’t get a<br />

choice in the colour. If they want it clear it is<br />

going to turn out multi-coloured. I handcraft<br />

one-off creations. I don’t shape normal.<br />

There are plenty of normal boards out there<br />

so those surfers can go find one.”<br />

DESIGN FEATURES - THE TEASPOON.<br />

“Hold a teaspoon as lightly as you can with<br />

two fingers and bring it towards streaming<br />

tap water. You will notice the teaspoon suck<br />

in. Flip the spoon and it repels it.<br />

“By placing a small teaspoon like scoop<br />

between the fins it creates what I call a<br />

‘bubble’ or air pocket under the board giving<br />

you traction. Too big a concave and the board<br />

becomes sticky. It will draw a really nice fast<br />

line but is hard to turn.”<br />

JET BOTTOM CROSS CHANNEL<br />

“Erle is the inventor of the Jet Bottom. I<br />

remembered as a ten year old kid my mum<br />

took me to Palm Beach and I saw a Jet Bottom<br />

on the wall of a local café and I just went, ‘Ohh,<br />

I want one of those.’ I never saw one again after<br />

that and low and behold, Erle ends up being my<br />

neighbour in Agnes.<br />

“Working with Erle, we kind of inspire each other.<br />

We are on the same page but then again we’re<br />

not. I will do sh*t that will inspire him to do sh#t<br />

and vice versa and so the cycle goes on.<br />

“With regards to Erle’s Jet Bottoms, I just find the<br />

more you f*#k with it the better it goes. It continues<br />

to evolve but the basic theory behind it is if you<br />

place a handful of marbles across the bottom of<br />

a board, they are going to skate in every direction<br />

possible. That is basically what happens with the<br />

Jet Bottom, it doesn’t matter where the channels<br />

are allocated, it still works. For a split second when<br />

water first hits a channel you may feel a sense of<br />

drag but once the action starts it busts the tension,<br />

releases and the board builds speed.”<br />

RAILS<br />

“No one surfs forehand and backhand the same.<br />

No two boards go the same. You are only using<br />

predominantly one side of the stringer so to<br />

speak. So my boards feature two totally different<br />

templates because I am right into asymmetrical<br />

boards. I like the longer rail for the forehand for<br />

down the line speed and the shorter rail on your<br />

backhand for cutbacks. You are only using the tail<br />

of the board on your backhand for cutbacks, hence<br />

the shorter rail line. You don’t need as much nose<br />

in the water.<br />

VOLUME<br />

“I have nose volume in my board for paddling<br />

power and a big arse platform for where you<br />

stand. The idea is that from the minute you get<br />

to your feet, you surf off that platform. You don’t<br />

shuffle here and shuffle there.<br />

“It’s part of the reason why I am such a fan of<br />

Geoff McCoy’s Lazor Zap. Every board should surf<br />

this way. The whole idea is you are surfing the tail<br />

end. The nose is irrelevant.”<br />

FINS<br />

“With every board I make, I try to get it to feel like<br />

a twin fin because I fully understand the feel of a<br />

twinnie and what the board is doing.”<br />

BUT EACH BOARD IS IN FACT A TRI FIN?<br />

“My tri fin doesn’t have the hang up of a thruster.<br />

It surfs like a twin fin but the back fin is just a<br />

stabiliser.<br />

“I was sitting on my balcony at Agnes knocking<br />

back a tally and I looked up and saw all these<br />

dragonflies hovering. I could clearly see their<br />

wings. One wing is upright and the other one leans<br />

forward. I just went, ‘Ok, there’s a concept.’<br />

“Now the fastest fin you can make is an upright<br />

fin. The more you tilt the fin the looser the board<br />

becomes but you have less drive. I thought<br />

about how I could best combine the two and the<br />

dragonfly gave me the solution. An upright fin for<br />

maximum drive and the side splayed fin to loosen<br />

98 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


Glenn ‘cat’<br />

Collins<br />

Surf 1770<br />

INTRO: Down-to-earth Aussie larrikin,<br />

mad-scientist, surfboard shaper<br />

HAILS FROM: Freshwater, NSW<br />

NOW LIVES: Agnes Water, Qld<br />

SHAPING: 30+ years<br />

SHAPES: Anything that’s not normal<br />

Teaspoon<br />

SPYRAL Channel<br />

Jet Bottom<br />

the board up. The split fin also gives you<br />

the advantage of a wide-based fin for<br />

drive and speed but being split it aids<br />

maneuverability and ease of turning. And<br />

with my boards, no two foils are the same.”<br />

LAST ROUND<br />

As for how long Glenn ‘Cat’s’ boards must<br />

take to shape, glass and sand, his reply is<br />

to the point.<br />

“I just do it. Because the boards take so<br />

much time to make, it gives me further<br />

time to think. People say to me, ‘Ohh man,<br />

you are ahead of your time’ and I say,<br />

‘Well I made it a year ago, so how can I be<br />

if I have already made it?’<br />

“By the time I finish, I’m two to three<br />

creations ahead in my mind. I don’t see any<br />

wow factor in it because I have already<br />

done it and I am onto the next one.”<br />

Glen ‘Cat’<br />

style Tri-fins<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

Glen ‘Cat’ Collins<br />

Photo: Dave Swan<br />

99


LATEST: DEBATE<br />

Paul Cole<br />

Inventor of the Fat<br />

Penguin Integrated<br />

Flow Form<br />

INTRO: After 4 years building boards at<br />

home Bobby Brown landed Paul a job<br />

with Gordon & Smith in 1970. His first<br />

commercial success with the label was<br />

a 7’6” pin-nosed rounded pintail.<br />

HAILS FROM: Cronulla, NSW<br />

NOW LIVES: Cronulla, NSW<br />

SHAPING: Since the age of 14,<br />

some 46 years<br />

SHAPES: Fat Penguins<br />

Paul Cole and the<br />

Fat Penguin.<br />

Photo: Dave Swan<br />

AS FOR ‘OUT THERE’<br />

THINKING, PAUL COLE HAS<br />

TAKEN A VERY SCIENTIFIC<br />

APPROACH.<br />

History is littered with<br />

philosophers, scientists and<br />

inventors who were ridiculed<br />

only to be later proven right, just<br />

think of people like Pythagoras<br />

(the earth is round) and the<br />

Wright Brothers (the flying<br />

machine) to name a few.<br />

It seems as humans we are<br />

often inclined to discredit<br />

‘unconventional thinking’. To call<br />

people ‘crazy’ for having an idea<br />

that is different.<br />

While a vast majority of<br />

revolutionary announcements<br />

from the fringes of science<br />

are questionable, we cannot<br />

discredit every one without<br />

investigation and debate. If we<br />

do, then we’ll certainly take<br />

our place among the ranks of<br />

naysayers who have delayed<br />

significant breakthroughs<br />

throughout history.<br />

Pursuing revolutionary<br />

advancements in science and<br />

technology can be like searching<br />

for diamonds hidden in sewage.<br />

But sometimes ‘lunacy’ can turn<br />

out to be a genuine cutting-edge<br />

discovery.<br />

Personally, I have the greatest<br />

respect and admiration for<br />

people who pursue their beliefs<br />

amidst public heckling and<br />

ridicule. Most people are afraid<br />

to think different, concerned<br />

with what others may think of<br />

them. If anything, Paul Cole has<br />

exhibited a great deal of guts<br />

and dogmatic determination to<br />

persevere.<br />

The pursuit<br />

of the flying<br />

surfboard<br />

The Wright Brothers invention<br />

of the ‘flying machine’ is<br />

particularly pertinent to this<br />

discussion. Five years after their<br />

first successful flight, and in spite<br />

of many public demonstrations,<br />

the Wright Brothers’ invention<br />

was still being ridiculed as a<br />

hoax in the press and scientific<br />

community.<br />

Being schooled in aeronautical<br />

engineering and highly skilled<br />

in the field of Flow Dynamics<br />

dealing with gases and fluids,<br />

Paul Cole first asked himself<br />

100 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


ack in 1988, ‘If an aeroplane can fly, why can’t<br />

a surfboard?’ He proposed that if planes can<br />

fly in gaseous fluid, then surfboards could fly<br />

in a dense fluid. Paul wondered if he applied<br />

some sophisticated flow principles to the<br />

current planing surfboard whether he may<br />

be able to create a pressure wave glider. His<br />

exploration began and some 24 years later and<br />

56 prototypes along, his quest continues.<br />

LIMITATIONS OF CONVENTIONAL<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

Paul explains the modern day shortboard and<br />

what he sees as its shortcomings.<br />

“They are super refined planing forms that have<br />

evolved from thousands of surfies’ attempts at<br />

what really works and millions of enthusiasts<br />

pushing the physical boundaries of surfing.<br />

Their advancement however has stagnated to<br />

a degree.<br />

“For me, I love power surfing and big waves.<br />

But surfboards, as planing forms, use less and<br />

less surface area as your speed increases.<br />

This is why when you hit critical speed, they<br />

become unwieldy and bounce everywhere.<br />

Big, long, sleek guns are great but their profile<br />

doesn’t enable you to make tight turns.“<br />

WEIRD SCIENCE<br />

“The Fat Penguin is a new approach to surf<br />

craft design; a way of moving to a new level<br />

based on scientific principles and solid research<br />

into many related technologies.<br />

“To develop a new improved approach to surf<br />

craft design, I used research assembled from the<br />

fastest flow forms on the planet. I consolidated<br />

the profiles of aircraft including Mig Foxbat,<br />

F-16, SR 71 Blackbird and the J-39 Euro Jet. I<br />

next added profiles from the fastest bullet, Mako<br />

shark, Spanish mackerel, tuna, penguins and<br />

finally, 12 metre racing yachts. After two and a<br />

half years of assembling and crunching data, a<br />

commonality of flow forms emerged.<br />

“The hard science used to evolve the Fat<br />

Penguin project is the same as NASA and<br />

the Japanese aerospace engineers used in<br />

designing the first space shuttle and NASP<br />

pressure wave gliders. There is a mathematical<br />

formula to describe the flow shape that took<br />

over two years to assemble using the theories<br />

of Archimedes, Newton, Freude, Reynolds,<br />

Chung, Burt, Rutan, and Helmholtz. This was a<br />

big headache to get through yet it was vitally<br />

important the core theory made the project<br />

sound.”<br />

THE BIRTH OF THE FAT PENGUIN<br />

Aside from the scientific principles behind this<br />

design, we asked Paul the question of how he<br />

arrived at the name.<br />

“When I was researching flow forms and got<br />

to penguins, I found they can dive 600ft and<br />

hit 80kms an hour through the water. They<br />

fly like birds in the water. I found the trick to<br />

their efficiency is, when they are on land they<br />

appear quite pudgy and squat but when they hit<br />

the water they transform their body to a long<br />

streamlined shape which is quite pointy at the<br />

nose and gets wider at the back. Exactly the<br />

same shape as my surfboard.”<br />

“The Fat Penguin is an Aquatic Glider with far<br />

higher lift/drag ratios then planning gliders,<br />

making it more efficient. An analogy would be<br />

to compare a paper kite to a glider.<br />

“Aquatic gliders wrap the fluid over a lifting<br />

body. The wing section of the board works<br />

on the Bernoulli’s Principle where no water is<br />

wasted and instead of being thrown out the<br />

back of the board it wraps the flow onto the<br />

form (surfboard).”<br />

Now if you are anything like me, at this stage<br />

your eyes are starting to glaze over and you<br />

are saying, ‘What the …. is the Bernoulli’s<br />

Principle?’ Well here is what it is about; it<br />

works on the idea that as a wing passes<br />

through the air, its shape makes the air travel<br />

more over the top of the wing than beneath it.<br />

This creates higher pressure beneath the wing<br />

than above it. The pressure difference causes<br />

the wing to push upwards and lift is created.<br />

Hopefully you’re still with me. If not, read<br />

again, slowly...<br />

Bernoulli’s<br />

Principle<br />

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nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

101<br />

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PERFORMANCE<br />

The all-important basis by which every successful<br />

experiment is measured is performance. ‘How does<br />

the Fat Penguin perform?’<br />

“It paddles like any shortboard and duck dives easily<br />

but when you swing around and paddle for a wave it<br />

just lifts and goes. The latest incarnation of my Fat<br />

Penguin design, the 56th prototype, I have renamed<br />

the ‘Planet Smasher’ because that is what it does. It<br />

has no known speed limit.<br />

“Hawaiian big wave rider Wayne Hope says ‘With this<br />

board I destroy waves.’ Two former world champions<br />

have ridden the board but can’t be named because<br />

they were fearful of losing their sponsors.<br />

“You need to take a different approach to your surfing.<br />

If you grab the rails when you go to stand they will<br />

be sucked under the wings and you’ll be taken over<br />

the falls. You have to push up with your hands on the<br />

deck. From there the board just accelerates. To pick<br />

up speed on a normal board you must go up and down<br />

the wave face.<br />

“The Fat Penguins are very stable at high speed. Where<br />

a normal board goes out of control, it goes in control. It<br />

doesn’t stall in turns but actually accelerates.”<br />

CONSTRUCTION<br />

With so much going on and some nine integrated flow<br />

forms blended together, there is a fair bit of work to<br />

a Fat Penguin. 44 hours to be exact. And everything<br />

has to be done by hand from shaping and glassing<br />

to sanding. Dave and Jim at Jackson Surfboards<br />

are credited with this painstaking, meticulous<br />

craftsmanship. The boards are glassed a little heavier<br />

than normal to stand the rigours of testing and to<br />

ensure they do not react to chop at high speeds.<br />

FACT OR FICTION<br />

Just before going to print we got our hands on the 56th<br />

Fat Penguin -The Planet Smasher. Unfortunately the<br />

non-existence of waves on the Sunshine Coast over the<br />

past few weeks prohibited testing but stay tuned.<br />

Final thoughts...<br />

Let’s celebrate diversity rather than conformity. After<br />

all, there is more than one way to ride a wave.<br />

Don’t dismiss or discredit an idea because it may be<br />

slightly left of centre. Consider the possibilities. Form<br />

your own opinion and don’t be swayed by surfing’s<br />

style gurus. After all, we all surf differently.<br />

The true essence of a waterman or woman is to ride<br />

everything and anything and how would you know<br />

what newfound pleasure you may uncover if you do<br />

not go exploring?<br />

For more innovative surfboard design and construction<br />

methods turn to page 158 of our Gear section.<br />

102 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


Clinton Cross from the Gold Coast in the<br />

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FAVOURITE FOOD: Spaghetti<br />

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nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

103


TRAVEL: PLANE TRIP<br />

VICTORIAN SHAPER AND SURFER JORDIE BROWN IS NO NEWBIE TO SURF TRAVEL, BUT IF YOU LOOK HARD<br />

ENOUGH, THERE’S ALWAYS SOMETHING NEW TO DISCOVER, HE FINDS. ON THE WAY TO ENJOY SOME OF THE<br />

GREAT WAVES OF INDONESIA IN THE MENTAWAIS, HE TOOK A LITTLE DETOUR ON A PATH LESS TRAVELLED...<br />

Padang:<br />

exploring the gateway<br />

WORDS & PHOTOS: JORDIE BROWN<br />

104 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

105


TRAVEL: PLANE TRIP<br />

So, here we are on our on the first leg of our<br />

six-month journey travelling and surfing around<br />

Asia, this is the first stop - Padang, the capital of<br />

the West Sumatra province.<br />

Still recovering from the 2009 earthquake that<br />

devastated the city and surrounding villages,<br />

Padang is a far cry from the tourist towns<br />

you often see in brochures and displays a<br />

strong sense of identity and culture, relatively<br />

untouched by the almighty western tourist dollar.<br />

For most surfers chasing an Indonesian surfing<br />

adventure Padang is no more than an overnight<br />

stop before embarking on a chartered boat trip<br />

to the Mentawais Islands. This was certainly not<br />

the case for my travelling and surfing buddies<br />

Brendan Jenkins, Jimmy Weigall and me.<br />

While searching for the cheapest alternative<br />

to get to the surrounding islands we found<br />

ourselves exploring an area that only a small<br />

handful of backpackers, let alone surfers, find<br />

themselves in.<br />

As we boarded the small jet flying from<br />

Malaysia to Padang we were surrounded by<br />

western surfers, all with the same encyclopaedic<br />

knowledge of the breaks around the Mentawais<br />

and armed with ten-day surf forecasts of what<br />

breaks would work and when. I couldn’t help but<br />

wonder if our lack of organisation would end up<br />

being a huge headache and, even worse, result<br />

in days lost, not scoring waves.<br />

As soon as we made our way through customs<br />

and out the front door of the airport our group<br />

was clearly heading along a different path to all<br />

our fellow surfers. They were quickly ushered<br />

into pre-booked, air-conditioned surf tour vans,<br />

while BJ, Jimmy and I were left bargaining with<br />

the local cab drivers for a ride to the cheapest<br />

hotel we could find in the area. As the taxi<br />

ducked and weaved through the mid morning<br />

traffic to the loudest, and only, Indonesian<br />

techno I had ever heard, we got our very first<br />

glance of Padang itself. Smog, traffic and all<br />

the madness of a busy city flew by as we sat<br />

speechless, crammed in the back of a small taxi<br />

with all our boards and gear. What had we got<br />

ourselves into?<br />

After booking into a small budget hotel we<br />

spend our first day in Indonesia recovering from<br />

a slight bout of jetlag, finding our bearings and<br />

working out what the hell to do next.<br />

That night, whilst trying to figure out the best<br />

way to the Mentawai Islands without going<br />

down the road of a chartered tour, we heard<br />

word of a couple of surfable waves not far away.<br />

So, the next morning couldn’t arrive soon enough<br />

for our first chance to explore!<br />

106 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


“Even the occasional mouthful of seawater<br />

that tasted like a shot of ripe bin juice, or<br />

the odd chip packet that stuck to your back<br />

while duck diving wasn’t anywhere near<br />

enough to dampen our stoke.”<br />

FAR LEFT: Cheap transport to Air Manis. LEFT: GIving the Alaia a go. BOTTOM LEFT: All the travel essentials<br />

MIDDLE: Flying past the sights of Padang at top speed RIGHT: Ding repairs, Indo-style<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

107


1<strong>08</strong> nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

TOP: The dawn surf check LEFT: Small but playful waves proved to be plenty of fun


A couple of local grommets claimed they<br />

knew of waves that were within a short ride<br />

on the back of a motor bike. After haggling<br />

for the cheapest way to get from our hotel<br />

to the surf, we jumped on the back of three<br />

mopeds for 50,000rp - about $5.50 Australian.<br />

With boards under our arms we took off into<br />

the madness of peak hour Padang traffic to<br />

Air Manis beach.<br />

The quickest way was through a mountain<br />

track no more than a metre wide. The path<br />

off the main road weaved through an urban<br />

sprawl of shacks and small homes into the<br />

jungle. As the driver dodged dogs, goats,<br />

chooks and the other odd motorist that came<br />

flying past, I simply just held on for dear<br />

life with one hand as the other went numb<br />

with the weight of my board, taking in the<br />

sights as locals went about their daily lives<br />

throughout these small back alleys.<br />

“The 3ft swell lines<br />

were rolling in,<br />

breaking up into peaks<br />

then wedging as they<br />

hit the shore, and all<br />

this with only three<br />

local grommets out.”<br />

Seeing as just about everyone we had talked<br />

to since arriving in Padang said there were<br />

no surfable waves in the area, we weren’t<br />

really expecting much. But when we made<br />

our way down from the hills, the small<br />

stretch of beach at Air Manis seemed to be<br />

drawing in the small bits of swell that the<br />

islands hadn’t been able to block. Although<br />

there was a light onshore breeze, there were<br />

some seriously playful 2ft, black sand bottom<br />

beach breaks to be had. Even the occasional<br />

mouthful of seawater that tasted like a shot<br />

of ripe bin juice, or the odd chip packet that<br />

stuck to your back while duck diving wasn’t<br />

anywhere near enough to dampen our stoke.<br />

It was just good to be getting wet after three<br />

days in airports, planes and cheap motels.<br />

While sharing the little fun session with two<br />

friendly locals they recommended that we<br />

head down early in the following morning on<br />

the higher tide and before the onshore wind<br />

kicked in.<br />

First thing the next day the air was still and<br />

the ocean calm as we headed back over the<br />

mountain pass towards Air Manis beach.<br />

As we made our way down to the water we<br />

could see the swell had picked up a foot<br />

or two and the sets seemed to be rolling<br />

through more regularly than our session the<br />

afternoon before. The waves were nothing<br />

like the 8ft heaving indo reef breaks you see<br />

in magazines, however the punchy 3ft beach<br />

break was perfect for a play around on a little<br />

quad-fin fish. With not another westerner<br />

in sight we shared the morning surfing<br />

with a handful of friendly local shredders,<br />

clocking up a good four-hour session in the<br />

unexpected wedges.<br />

The wind finally turned and we made our<br />

way back to the small hotel to rest before<br />

exploring the beaches south on foot. The<br />

10km stretch adjacent to the city of Padang<br />

had small rock groynes laying about 50m<br />

apart, and although the swell was small you<br />

could see the potential the setup had.<br />

About 20 minutes walk from the town centre<br />

we found a more than rideable wave in the<br />

corner of one of the larger rock walls. Sitting<br />

at a small stall as the sun was setting, eating<br />

a feed of nasi goreng while watching 2ft<br />

grinding peelers, we made up our minds to<br />

head back down there at the first signs of<br />

swell. In the meantime we were more than<br />

happy to fill in the days surfing Air Manis<br />

early before the wind picked up, helping local<br />

grommets patch up their boards and then<br />

finish by sitting out over one of the many<br />

rock groins having dinner at our favourite<br />

restaurant - run entirely by one little old lady -<br />

while our imaginations ran wild watching the<br />

knee high, 20m long, spitting barrels breaking<br />

left and right of either side of the groynes.<br />

Our final day in Padang started the same<br />

as every other day, waking to the sound of<br />

Islamic prayers from the small mosque that<br />

shared a wall with our shoebox sized room. I<br />

made my way down to check the conditions<br />

as the sun rose. To my surprise we finally<br />

got that little kick in the swell we had been<br />

waiting for, just enough for the rock groyne<br />

right-hander we had stumbled across earlier<br />

in the week to have some potential for waves.<br />

Far too excited to take the 20 minute walk<br />

through the city, BJ, Jimmy and I lashed out<br />

and spent 10,000rp (just over $1 Australian<br />

for the three of us) and crammed in to the<br />

small local minivan. We got dropped meters<br />

from our rock groyne of choice. Just as we<br />

had hoped, the surf looked the goods. The 3ft<br />

swell lines were rolling in, breaking up into<br />

peaks then wedging as they hit the shore,<br />

and all this with only three local grommets<br />

out. The session turned out to be a more fun<br />

then a barrel of monkeys as we all slotted<br />

into our share of wedgy sand bottom kegs.<br />

As stoked as we were going wave for wave<br />

with the three howling local groms, I couldn’t<br />

help but be saddened experiencing how<br />

polluted there water was. You can’t help but<br />

wonder what the future holds for coastal<br />

communities throughout Indonesia if they<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

109


E<br />

“It was refreshing spending time amongst<br />

the small local surfing community that<br />

wanted nothing more than to be our<br />

mates and share the stoke.”<br />

S P<br />

LEFT: Jimmy and some stoked locals<br />

www.espsurfshop.com.au<br />

www.edsinnott.com.au<br />

0404 059 321<br />

keep treating the oceans and waterways like a garbage tip. Where<br />

once the locals threw the banana leaves that contained the food into<br />

the water, they now throw plastics bags and foam containers that will<br />

float in the ocean and litter the beaches for thousands of years to come.<br />

The only real way forward is education. It makes you appreciate how<br />

conscientious we are in Australia with our waste.<br />

Although the waves we scored in our week in Padang were only a<br />

small taste for the trip to come in the Mentawais, it turned out to be<br />

a worthy start to our journey. Everywhere we went smiles and friendly<br />

faces greeted us. It was refreshing spending time amongst the small<br />

local surfing community that wanted nothing more than to be our mates<br />

and share the stoke. Asking for money or pressuring us into buying<br />

something never even crossed their minds.<br />

In the shadow of one of the best surfing locations in the world we found<br />

something we had never expected to find - a more than rideable wave,<br />

and a handful of super-stoked surfers that, despite the language barrier,<br />

really did become our mates.<br />

These days it’s really easy to jump on the net and book a trip to a world<br />

class wave where you more often than not wind up surfing with just as<br />

many westerners as back home and perhaps be missing out on some<br />

true adventure you experience when you travel. You should never be<br />

scared to wing it a little… You never know what you might find.<br />

110 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

111


SYDNEY’S NORTHERN BEACHES<br />

TRUE NORTH<br />

The next 40-odd pages... Our tribute to the people, places,<br />

surfing and spirit of the Northern Beaches of Sydney.<br />

WORDS: BEN HORVATH<br />

Ian Bird, ianbird.com.au<br />

112 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


TRAVEL:ROADTRIP<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

113


114 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


TRAVEL:ROADTRIP<br />

CAN YOU HAVE IT ALL?<br />

Beautiful beaches, top shelf entertainment, celebrity neighbours, excellent coffee,<br />

beautiful people, nightlife, thirty kilometres of consistent surf breaks, a choice of<br />

talented shapers on your doorstep, beachbreaks, reefs, points... All this within one of<br />

the top ten most liveable cities in the world.<br />

It seems like you can have it all if you’re fortunate enough to be a resident of Sydney’s<br />

Northern Beaches. Though infintely far removed from the small-town surf vibe to<br />

be found elsewhere along the New South Wales coast, it’s very comforting to find<br />

you don’t require a pencil moustache, slickback and your girlfriend’s jeans to feel<br />

welcome. In fact, many of the city mice are just as laid back as the country mice.<br />

Southsider, Ben Horvath, ventures up beyond the highrises of the CBD to discover<br />

even more of what makes this stretch so unique.<br />

IT’S A<br />

NUMBERS GAME<br />

30kms of coastline, 30+ world<br />

class surfboard shapers, 20-odd<br />

surf breaks and about the same<br />

amount of quality surf stores,<br />

means there’s plenty for the<br />

visiting surfer.<br />

TOP LEFT: Where we all want to be - on the inside looking<br />

out. Jules Phillips, oceaneye.com. TOP RIGHT: Queenscliff<br />

from North steyne. Jules Phillips, oceaneye.com.<br />

MAIN: Individual style... Religious pose on the nose.<br />

Joel Coleman, saltmotion.com.au<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

115


DID YOU<br />

KNOW?<br />

Snowy McAlister pioneered<br />

boardriding on the Northern Beaches<br />

and was the first Australian to be<br />

inducted into the Surfing Hall of<br />

Fame. He also bridged the great<br />

divide between the lifesaving<br />

scene and surfers.<br />

Looking into the bowl at Winki<br />

Pop (Fairy Bower) from afar<br />

looks mellow. Negotiating a late<br />

drop to get into the bowl isn’t.<br />

Ian Bird, ianbird.com.au<br />

116 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


THE<br />

LAY OF<br />

THE LAND<br />

TRAVEL:ROADTRIP<br />

The north side of Sydney is arguably unmatched by a city surfing<br />

environment anywhere else on the planet.<br />

Manly, which lies on the northern side of the entrance to Sydney Harbour,<br />

is the first and southernmost of eighteen surf beaches on Sydney’s north<br />

shore, where tall Norfolk pines often filled with chirping rainbow lorikeets<br />

line the beachfront. A narrow strip of land separates the ocean and the<br />

calm waters of the harbour to the south, while thirty-odd kilometres to the<br />

north lies Palm Beach and the entrance to Broken Bay - the gateway to<br />

Pittwater and the Hawkesbury River, an expanse of water that separates<br />

the northern beaches from the Central Coast of NSW.<br />

Vast areas of National Park, bushland and of course the harbour, Pittwater<br />

and the Pacific contribute to keeping the populated urban environment<br />

looking and feeling uniquely cruisey. A combination of well maintained<br />

beachside car parks, contemporary coastal landscaping and in most<br />

instances tastefully developed low-density housing blends in with the<br />

natural environment.<br />

The succession of fine, sandy beaches is punctuated by protective<br />

sandstone headlands. The sand is yellow/white in the south, becoming<br />

progressively more golden as you travel north up towards “The Bends” of<br />

The Peninsula.<br />

The Northern Beaches or more specifically, Manly, was earmarked for<br />

a beachside tourist destination not long after the colonial settlers first<br />

arrived in Sydney. However, it wasn’t until 1854 – more than 60 years<br />

after Captain Arthur Phillip visited and named Manly in recognition of a<br />

group of “Manly” Guringai Aboriginals who waded out to his ship – that<br />

the first day trippers began making their way by ferry from Sydney Cove to<br />

the Northern Beaches. Despite the visitors, legal daytime bathing wasn’t<br />

allowed until 1903. The replacement of the old wooden punt over Middle<br />

Harbour with the first Spit Bridge in 1924 saw a significant increase in<br />

tourists to the area. And increased it has. These days, over 6 million<br />

visitors a year from all over the world enjoy the unique urban, surf, sun,<br />

sand and bush experience that Sydney’s Northern Beaches offer.<br />

The region is renowned for great food, nightlife and a sense of safe<br />

family and community living. The beaches are well serviced by bus and<br />

ferry transportation, though the problematic traffic bottleneck at The Spit<br />

Bridge through Mosman and Neutral Bay for the thousands of regular city<br />

commuters has been the subject of much community angst for decades<br />

now. The lack of a train line servicing the beaches does tend to keep the<br />

number of inland hordes from Sydney’s west and south western suburbs<br />

to a minimum and that’s the way the locals like it.<br />

The Northern Beaches vibe, whilst busy and quite crowded in parts, is<br />

mostly relaxed and comfortable.<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

117


BACK IN<br />

THE DAY<br />

Duke Kahanaamoku formally introduced surfboard riding to Australia on<br />

Sydney’s Northern Beaches on Sunday, 15 January 1915 at Freshwater Beach<br />

just north of Manly on a board he made from sugar pine.That moment, most<br />

would agree, cemented Sydney’s Northern Beaches as the spiritual, creative<br />

and competitive birthplace of Australian surfing.<br />

COMPETITION WAS FIERCE...<br />

Ever since Bernard “Midget” Farrelly became the first Australian to win<br />

a world surfing title in front of over 60,000 surf fans at Manly in 1964,<br />

competitions have been held regularly in the consistent surf of the north. The<br />

list of world champions and influential surfers raised in the region goes on<br />

and on, reading like a who’s who of the most famous household names such<br />

as Midget Farrelly, Nat Young, Tom Carroll, Damien Hardman, Barton Lynch,<br />

Simon Anderson, Martin Potter, Pam Burridge, Layne Beachley and many more,<br />

such as shaper Mark Rabbidge and even the eccentric Glen ‘Cat’ Collins.<br />

The 2SM Coca Cola Surfabout was based at Narrabeen from 1974 to<br />

1991, but often moved to nearby beaches, wherever the waves were best.<br />

The event also reads like a roll-call of surfing royalty, with surfers like Wayne<br />

Lynch and Larry Blair trading tubes at North Steyne in the infamous 1978<br />

final. The likes of Michael Peterson, Mark Richards, Rabbit Bartholomew,<br />

Cheyne Horan, Michael Ho, Larry Bertleman and Peter Townsend surfed<br />

against Northern Beaches legends like Mark Warren, Simon Anderson, Terry<br />

Fitzgerald, Col Smith and Russell Lewis to name but a... phew.<br />

There was and will always be a multitude of events in the area with<br />

traditionally strong boardriders clubs like Newport, Narrabeen, QBC, Mona<br />

Vale, Curl Curl and North Steyne maintaining a strong competition focus.The<br />

north is still very much a hotbed of grass roots and professional surfing talent.<br />

ABOVE: The statue of The<br />

Duke stands tall above<br />

Freshwater, where it all began<br />

back in 1914, and RIGHT:<br />

Looking down the line.<br />

Ian Bird, ianbird.com.au<br />

118 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


Mick Mackie Photo: Hiroyuki Yamada<br />

THREE<br />

STORES,<br />

MANLY<br />

Shop 2,<br />

93-95 North Steyne,<br />

Manly<br />

(02) 9977 3549<br />

Three times the choice<br />

We have the most unbelievable range of boards of any surf store on the Australian<br />

East Coast. We doubt there’s a travelling surfer who hasn’t visited Dripping Wet.<br />

BONDI<br />

2/180-186 Campbell Pde<br />

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(02) 9300 0055<br />

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(02) 9907 2911<br />

(SUP SUPERSTORE)<br />

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Mick Mackie<br />

Rusty<br />

Eric Arakawa<br />

McCoy<br />

Byrne<br />

Yater<br />

McTavish<br />

Wayne Lynch<br />

Simon Anderson<br />

Southpoint<br />

Takayama<br />

Mark Martinson<br />

Kym Thompson<br />

John Carper<br />

Mark Richards<br />

Dahlberg<br />

Xanadu<br />

Vampirate<br />

Lost<br />

Pearson Arrow<br />

Wegener Seaglass<br />

Webber<br />

Superbrand<br />

Robert August<br />

Surftech<br />

DHD<br />

El Nino softboards<br />

Plus accessories,<br />

clothing and skate...<br />

FCS, Fluid Foils, Reef,<br />

O’Neil, Excel, Peak,<br />

West, Quiksilver, Rip<br />

Curl, Sanuk, Hive<br />

Swimwear, Ocean<br />

Zone, Aztec Rose,<br />

Old Blokes Rule, Tools,<br />

DC, Globe, Analog,<br />

Seacured, Sector 9.....<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

119


AN UNDERCURRENT<br />

OF CREATIVITY<br />

While the Northern Beaches are<br />

traditional blue ribbon conservative<br />

held seats, with middle to upper class<br />

residents in pockets of uber expensive<br />

real estate, as John Witzig said in<br />

Bombora, “There has always been<br />

an underlying vibe of rebellion meets<br />

creativity within the Northern Beaches<br />

surfing community.”<br />

Many artists have made these waves<br />

their playground, specifically in the<br />

surf arena Vampirate Surfboards’ Ozzie<br />

Wright and artaholic Caspain De Looze<br />

who has created artwork on surfboards<br />

for the likes of Pink and Metallica.<br />

The music pedigree is rock solid to<br />

boot. Little Pattie’s debut single “He’s<br />

My Blonde-Headed, Stompie-Wompie,<br />

Real Gone Surfer Boy”, surfaced in<br />

the final months of Sydney’s surfmusic<br />

craze at the tail end of 1963,<br />

just as Beatlemania was starting to<br />

stir. Artists like Little Pattie and The<br />

Atlantics prompted the sixties northern<br />

beaches surf club stomp craze. The<br />

Atlantics, and later the likes of the<br />

Sunsets - the band who later evolved<br />

into Tamam Shud who recorded the<br />

epic soundtrack for Morning of The<br />

Earth - were arguably Sydney’s first<br />

surf bands.<br />

The turn on, tune in, drop out era of<br />

the late 60s to mid 70s, when Tamam<br />

Shud and similar psychedelic tunes<br />

dominated kombi cassette players,<br />

soon evolved into the more aggressive<br />

guitar rock of the late 70s and early<br />

80s. Midnight Oil ruled the Northern<br />

Beaches for well over a decade. Their<br />

shows at The Narrabeen Antler in the<br />

early 80’s are the stuff of legend.<br />

In the mid to late 80s Northern<br />

Beaches-based surfers fronted a host<br />

of touring surf punk bands. Manly<br />

artist Ben Brown fronted The Hellmen,<br />

North Steyne speed guitarist Brett<br />

Currota was the driving force behind<br />

Mass Appeal, Mark “Bird” Nowane<br />

was the lead singer of Newport based<br />

World War 24 and the Celibate Rifles<br />

frontman Damien Lovelock also called<br />

Newport home between tours.<br />

In the 90s Pico and some of Andrew<br />

Kidman’s mellower incarnations were<br />

influential, whilst so far this century<br />

Ozzie Wright and Vaughan Blakey’s<br />

Goons Of Doom, Mat McHugh and The<br />

Beautiful Girls, Angus and Julia Stone’s<br />

cruisy, rock folk and Rob Hirst’s The<br />

Break are names synonymous with the<br />

Northern Beaches music scene.<br />

In Sydney’s live music heyday of the<br />

80s and 90s, when pub rock was at the<br />

height of popularity, iconic northern<br />

beaches venues like The Antler - renamed<br />

The Sands - regularly hosted<br />

Oz rock greats like Radio Birdman,<br />

Midnight Oil, The Sunnyboys and<br />

INXS, to name a few. Dee Why Hotel<br />

welcomed the likes of Johnny Rotten’s<br />

PIL, The Hard Ons, and The Hoodoo<br />

Gurus, whilst legendary US punkers<br />

The Dead Kennedys played both The<br />

Manly Vale Hotel and The Antler. The<br />

Mosman Hotel was the premier punk<br />

venue north of the bridge, featuring<br />

underground acts like Box Of Fish, The<br />

Kelpies, X, Positive Hatred, Itchy Rat,<br />

The Scientists and more. These days<br />

The Manly Boatshed and Harbord RSL<br />

also fly the live music flag.<br />

A large percentage of the Australian<br />

surf media was, and still is, based on<br />

the Northern Beaches. The original<br />

Tracks office was at Whale beach,<br />

Surfing World magazine too was born<br />

on the northern beaches. Late last year<br />

the new Coastalwatch and Surfing<br />

World joint headquarters moved into<br />

the old Quiksilver building on Pittwater<br />

Road at Avalon.<br />

World class artists, photographers and<br />

journalists grew up or re-located to<br />

the region to embed themselves in the<br />

culture, industry, their chosen lifestyle<br />

and careers. There is no shortage of<br />

talent on this side of Sydney.<br />

LEFT: Mat McHugh - Northern<br />

Beaches surfer, muso and nice bloke.<br />

120 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

121


South Narrabeen or The Gardens as it was<br />

once known, has a general tendency to close<br />

out. However in peaky E or NE swells it can<br />

turn on some uncrowded tunnels. Jay Taplin.<br />

Photo Alex Marks/bluesnapper.com.au<br />

122 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


SURF...<br />

THERE’S SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE<br />

TRAVEL:ROADTRIP<br />

The mid-latitude geographical position of Sydney’s northern beaches means the region experiences quite regular<br />

swell activity from all directions, whether that be cyclone season-generated north’s, mid winter southern Tasman<br />

groundswells or local southeast or northeast wind swells. Sydney’s north side certainly doesn’t lack variety. There<br />

are countless fun, peaky beachies that offer protection from all winds with waves for all levels. There’s several<br />

hectic, hollow reef breaks for the hardcore, and a bunch of mellower longboard waves for cruisers and beginners.<br />

Good wind protection from most southerlies can be sought out at South Palm Beach, South Avalon, Warriewood,<br />

Collaroy, Dee Why and Manly through Nth Steyne and Queenscliff, while Barrenjoey, Whale Beach, North Avalon,<br />

Bungan, Bilgola, Mona Vale, Narrabeen, Long Reef, North Curl and Freshwater are all fairly sheltered in the<br />

prevailing summer nor’easters.<br />

January through to July is generally regarded as the best time for waves. Post-July, the winter south swells often<br />

leave the banks in disarray for a month or two, before the gentle localised late spring SE to NE windswells start to<br />

reshape the banks just in time for the late summer/autumn north swell season.<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

123


Mansions in the background,<br />

empty perfection in the<br />

foreground. Palm Beach.<br />

Ian Bird, ianbird.com.au<br />

The far Northern stretch is home to arguably the most picturesque beaches in the country.<br />

The breaks, North to South..<br />

Palm Beach is<br />

probably best known for<br />

its luxuriously expensive<br />

houses and as the location<br />

for the successful Australian<br />

TV drama series Home and<br />

Away. The southern corner<br />

from Elephant Rock south<br />

offers plenty of shelter<br />

from southerly winds and<br />

swells. It can be fun in<br />

peaky ENE swells and Sth<br />

wind combo’s, or otherwise<br />

the northern end can be fun<br />

and relatively uncrowded<br />

in small, peaky swells and<br />

offshore wind combos.<br />

Occasionally Barrenjoey<br />

can turn on in larger ENE<br />

swells depending on sand<br />

formations, whilst Kiddies<br />

Corner at South Palm Beach<br />

can actually have a fun,<br />

protected right-hander<br />

during howling southerlies<br />

when the sand’s in on the<br />

pool.<br />

In the north corner of<br />

Whale Beach<br />

lays The Wedge. Given a<br />

swell with some component<br />

of E, combined with a W to<br />

NE wind you can score some<br />

quality waves. It’s called The<br />

Wedge because it peaks up<br />

off the rocks and lets loose<br />

with a powerful slingshot<br />

style lefthander - not a long<br />

wave, but intense. At the<br />

point of take off the wave<br />

at The Wedge can be twice<br />

the size of the swell hitting<br />

other nearby beaches. South<br />

Whale can also occasionally<br />

offer decent right-handers in<br />

a S swell if the sands in.<br />

Avalon is a pretty<br />

consistent beach that can<br />

work in N,E or S swells.<br />

There’s a variety of options,<br />

generally packing a bit of<br />

punch. In longer period E or<br />

NE swells North Avalon can<br />

produce mental lefts that<br />

rifle down the beach. In a<br />

S swell, South Avalon can<br />

also deliver quality rights<br />

that wall up, or occasionally<br />

barrel over a patchy, sand<br />

covered rock platform.<br />

Last but not least there’s<br />

Little Avalon, a right bowl<br />

dominated by local crew<br />

that breaks on a shallow<br />

rock platform at the base of<br />

the cliff at South Avalon.<br />

Bilgola can<br />

occasionally produce fun,<br />

semi uncrowded waves. It<br />

offers great protection from<br />

the prevailing summer NE<br />

sea breeze, but the banks<br />

often tend to be a little<br />

straight. Best in peaky E<br />

or NE swells or smallish<br />

shorter period south’s with<br />

W to NW winds.<br />

Bungan is an open,<br />

generally less crowded<br />

beach break because<br />

crew are often too lazy to<br />

walk down the hill. Often<br />

windy, but occasionally<br />

mindblowing, you really<br />

have to live local to monitor<br />

the bank quality. Generally<br />

best in peaky E or NE swells<br />

and W to NNE winds, every<br />

now and then it can turn<br />

on in S swells too. The<br />

southern end is home to<br />

Rockpools, a fickle sand-onrock<br />

set up that has its days.<br />

Generally locals only.<br />

124 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


TRAVEL:ROADTRIP<br />

ENTER<br />

THE DRAGON<br />

Little Dragon, that is...<br />

If surfing these parts, check<br />

out the best little old-school<br />

surf shop around.<br />

See P150<br />

North Narrabeen lining up.<br />

Ian Bird, ianbird.com.au<br />

Our happy tip: Mona Vale always has a great, friendly vibe in the surf.<br />

Newport boasts a<br />

variety of options, though<br />

none as consistently reliable<br />

as its Avalon neighbour.<br />

The Peak at the northern<br />

end can produce quality,<br />

sucky lefts and rights that<br />

are fun as, because there’s<br />

often a solid A-frame<br />

peak generating power.<br />

Occasionally, in longer<br />

period E or NE swells, you<br />

could luck into a decent left<br />

off the northern headland<br />

at Newport, but The Peak is<br />

the most consistent wave.<br />

The Peak generally works in<br />

a variety of swell directions<br />

up to 5 or 6ft and the wave<br />

quality is not necessarily<br />

destroyed by onshore<br />

winds. In fact, it can be<br />

fun in a light SE/NE wind.<br />

At the southern end of<br />

Newport you can have an ok<br />

surf off the pool or reef. The<br />

Reef is best in east or NE<br />

swells and a W to S wind.<br />

The Pathway outside is a<br />

fickle reef best left to the<br />

locals who put in the time<br />

waiting for the rare days<br />

when the elements align.<br />

Mona Vale tends<br />

to be at its best in late<br />

summer/autumn or early<br />

winter E or NE swells with<br />

W to NE winds. In a long<br />

period E or NE, or even<br />

peaky northerly swell, lefts<br />

will run down the beach,<br />

producing long rides that<br />

can occasionally be epic.<br />

Warriewood offers<br />

pretty good protection from<br />

fresh southerly winds. It<br />

will often be one of the last<br />

places offering sheltered<br />

rideable waves in a howling<br />

southerly. Decent, though<br />

sometimes wonky righthanders<br />

break close to the<br />

cliff base and run up the<br />

beach. Although rarely epic,<br />

Warriewood often offers<br />

fun runners, when most<br />

other northern beaches<br />

are a windblown write off.<br />

Surfable in solid S swells or<br />

small to medium E or even NE<br />

swells with W to SE winds.<br />

North<br />

Narrabeen is<br />

arguably the best beach<br />

break in Sydney, especially<br />

in an E or NE swell<br />

combined with W to N<br />

winds. Narrabeen Lake<br />

spills into the ocean in<br />

the corner by the pool at<br />

North Narrabeen, generally<br />

ensuring a stable, shallow<br />

V bank set up. There’s the<br />

famous long, hollow, left,<br />

that bowls and runs, the<br />

inside Alley right, and the<br />

more fickle Car Park Right<br />

that can deliver tubes in Sth<br />

swells.<br />

Although it can cope with a<br />

light onshore wind, it gets<br />

ugly in strong south swells<br />

and accompanying southerly<br />

winds.<br />

North Narrabeen’s place in<br />

Australian surfing folklore<br />

is well documented, whilst<br />

its list of local world<br />

champions is longer than<br />

most surfing nations, let<br />

alone individual beaches.<br />

Try and surf it in a low key<br />

swell, when it isn’t all-time,<br />

so it’s less crowded and<br />

you may have fun. Blow<br />

in at North Narrabeen on<br />

a perfect 5-6ft plus E or<br />

NE swell with favorable<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

125


126 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


Queenscliff turns on and (right) cruise control<br />

meets black rubber soul at Dee Why Point.<br />

Ian Bird, ianbird.com.au<br />

HEADS UP<br />

VISITING SURFERS<br />

“April, May and a bit of June. ...These months are generally best in these parts”<br />

Tim Hanrahan, Aloha<br />

W to N winds and you’ll be<br />

waiting in line with current<br />

ASP pros, retired pros, local<br />

legends, industry gurus and a<br />

major contingent of next-gen<br />

Northy groms. Narrabeen<br />

is most definitely the most<br />

protected, localised set up<br />

on the northern beaches, so<br />

if visiting, paddle out and<br />

respect the pecking order or<br />

risk being heckled.<br />

South<br />

Narrabeen is<br />

often a straight hander, but<br />

occasionally in peaky NE<br />

swells or even chunky longer<br />

period E or NE swell it can<br />

turn on some super hollow<br />

board-snapping slabs. Best in<br />

W to SSW wind.<br />

Collaroy is a bit of a<br />

wonky, last resort surf spot<br />

in a very big S swell or NE<br />

swell/S wind combo. There<br />

are some good waves off the<br />

outer reefs on the northern<br />

side of the headland, and<br />

even off the tip of Long Reef<br />

headland, but you really have<br />

to do the time and be familiar<br />

with local idiosyncrasies.<br />

I’ll leave the lesser known<br />

spots to the likes of the<br />

experienced local crews that<br />

tow-in out there when it gets<br />

bigger.<br />

The southern side of<br />

Long Reef has a<br />

bunch of options that work<br />

best in south swells. It’s<br />

offshore in a W to N wind<br />

and is also protected in a NE<br />

wind. The standout factor at<br />

Long Reef is that generally<br />

at the point of take off, the<br />

peak is up to twice the size<br />

of any comparable wave<br />

hitting Sydney’s northern<br />

beaches in a S swell. The<br />

main Long Reef Bombie is<br />

a good left and right peak,<br />

but it can be very shifty. The<br />

wave also breaks across a<br />

large surface area with more<br />

wave face than bowl to work<br />

with. Having said that, it is a<br />

fun wave, generally best on<br />

the dropping tide. There are<br />

also one or two well known<br />

big wave bombies offshore<br />

on the southern side of Long<br />

Reef but again they are best<br />

left to experienced crew that<br />

put in the time mastering<br />

them.<br />

South of Long Reef is a<br />

stretch of beach known as<br />

No Man’s Land,<br />

that can produce quality.<br />

However, you have to<br />

constantly observe the sand,<br />

tide etc. to score. Best in<br />

small to med S swells and<br />

N winds.<br />

Dee Why Point<br />

is a ledging, sometimes<br />

seriously sucky wave<br />

that breaks on a series of<br />

submerged rock ledges not<br />

too far from the exposed rock<br />

platform. Dee Why can be a<br />

frustrating point/reef break<br />

at times, not only because<br />

it has quite a small take<br />

off zone, but also because<br />

there can be backwash, the<br />

odd close out and of course<br />

crowds. The local crew<br />

instinctively know where<br />

to position themselves and<br />

of course dominate. Best in<br />

medium 4 to 6ft SE or even E<br />

swells with W or SW winds.<br />

Surfable in bigger S swells<br />

and S wind too.<br />

.<br />

Dee Why serves up<br />

some quite consistent beach<br />

breaks best in small to<br />

medium S or SE swells and<br />

NW to SSW winds.<br />

Curl Curl picks up<br />

swell from both the north and<br />

south. Curl Curl works best<br />

in NW to SW winds, but the<br />

northern end of Curly is also<br />

reasonably protected in a<br />

northeast wind. Good peaky<br />

beachy that can suffer from<br />

backwash at times. Quite a<br />

swell magnet.<br />

Queenscliff picks<br />

up a lot of E and N swell<br />

and works best on a west<br />

to southwest wind. It can<br />

produce hollow lefthanders<br />

that can run down the beach<br />

towards Nth Steyne in NE<br />

swells. Sometimes surfable<br />

in S swells too, but it does<br />

have a tendency to close out<br />

in S. Half a kilometre or so<br />

offshore lies the infamous<br />

Queenscliff Bombora – best<br />

in clean, long – period E or<br />

ENE swells and light offshore<br />

winds.<br />

North Steyne is<br />

just down the beach from<br />

Queenscliff. It also produces<br />

good lefts as well as peaky<br />

rights. North Steyne is quite<br />

protected in a southerly wind<br />

and can occasionally be<br />

ok in large S swell/S wind<br />

weather combos. However<br />

it’s at its best in peaky E or<br />

NE swells and W to SW/S<br />

wind.<br />

South Steyne<br />

or Manly is really<br />

sheltered in howling<br />

southerly winds. Fun<br />

beachies in peaky ENE swell/<br />

S wind combo’s or a last<br />

resort in massive S swells.<br />

If surfing at Narrabeen,<br />

when you paddle out,<br />

respect the pecking order<br />

or risk falling out of favour<br />

with the locals.<br />

Fairy Bower is a<br />

unique right reef-break that<br />

works best in E to NE swell<br />

and W to S wind direction.<br />

It’s a decent performance<br />

wave with plenty of wall<br />

that holds size, but can be<br />

fickle. A big southerly swell<br />

generally marches straight<br />

past up the coast, missing<br />

the inside reef.<br />

This definitely requires an<br />

element of E or even NE in<br />

the swell, best on a low to<br />

medium incoming tide.<br />

Around the front of The<br />

Bower, Winki Pop is a full<br />

blown bowl that picks up<br />

some SE swell, and further<br />

around again, Deadmans is a<br />

serious slab for experienced<br />

crew only in massive<br />

southerly swells.<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

127


DIVISION<br />

n e w<br />

i n n e g r a<br />

h i g h p e r f o r m a n c e<br />

f i b r e g l a s s<br />

surfboards<br />

&<br />

surfshop<br />

www.divisionsurf.com.au | facebook.com/divisionsurf<br />

CORNER OF BUNGAN & WARATAH STS<br />

MONA VALE P: 9979 5334<br />

128 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


GETTING DOWN<br />

TO BUSINESS<br />

The Northern Beaches has always been at the forefront of surfboard<br />

design, performance and retail.<br />

Starting all the way back to the Duke’s sugar pine creation in 1915,<br />

pioneering shapers like Bennett, Woods, Keyo and Farrelly picked up<br />

the torch and the innovations continued through the 60s short board<br />

revolution through the 80s - including Simon Anderson’s Thruster<br />

breakthrough in fin design.<br />

Shane Stedman’s Shane, Col Smith’s Morning Star, Terry Fitzgerald’s<br />

Hot Buttered, Greg Clough’s Aloha, Steve Zoeller and Simon’s Energy<br />

and many other iconic labels were all, or still are, based in the<br />

industrial zones of Brookvale or Mona Vale.<br />

The 80s surfboard and surf industry boom paved the way for a new<br />

generation of shapers, crew like Brett Warner, Hayden Cox, Dave<br />

Wood, Mike Psilakis, Mark Gnech, Blake Peters, Luke Short and Lee<br />

Stacey to just name a few.<br />

On the retail side, there’s no shortage of options for getting surf gear<br />

on the Northern Beaches either. There’s standout hardware stores,<br />

shops like Aloha, Manly Surfboards and Dripping Wet at Manly and<br />

North Manly, Wicks at Collaroy, Raised By Wolves at Mona Vale and<br />

Avalon, where you’ll also find Beach Without Sand. There are dozens<br />

of quality stores that stock surfboards and surf supplies for all shapes<br />

and diverse tastes.<br />

In our travels, we’ve had the privilege to meet many of these local<br />

shapers and retailers who have taken time out of their busy days to<br />

chat with us. We ask them about what makes the Northern Beaches<br />

so special and how they cater for the many surfers who live here and<br />

the visitors that descend en masse to this great stretch of coastline.<br />

SURFING’S<br />

LIVING HISTORY<br />

Bob Weeks’ 1963 image of the<br />

North Narabeen Surf Club is<br />

one of many treasures currently<br />

on display at the Museum of<br />

Sydney’s Surf City Exhibition.<br />

See www.hht.net.au<br />

for more.<br />

TRAVEL:ROADTRIP<br />

PHOTO: Bob Weeks, 1963. Supplied<br />

courtesy of the Surf City Exhibition<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

129


HATS OFF<br />

TO THE<br />

PIONEERS<br />

A true pioneer of the surfboard manufacturing industry is Barry<br />

Bennett who, in the early 1950s, began manufacturing hollow<br />

plywood surfboards and skis as a part-time business at his<br />

mother’s house in Waverly, in Sydney’s Eastern suburbs.<br />

By the mid-1950s, following the introduction of the short 10’6”<br />

plywood hollow Malibu, Barry had moved to the north side of the<br />

harbour and was making boards on a full time basis, averaging<br />

around five per week. By 1958, board production numbers had risen<br />

to an average of ten custom orders per week, produced out of the<br />

factory at Harbord, near Freshwater Beach.<br />

Bennett Surfboards Pty Ltd was formed in 1960. With<br />

surfboards originally built from plywood, the company responded to<br />

pressures to produce foam blanks and subsequently built the first<br />

factory exclusively for the manufacture of surfboards and blanks on<br />

Harbord Road, Brookvale.<br />

With five employees - all top surfers of that era - production<br />

numbers rose to forty-five boards per week using polyurethane<br />

blanks moulded on the Harbord premises. Balsa was soon phased<br />

out of production.<br />

During it’s initial years the company remained one of the only<br />

surfboard manufacturers in the country. 1962 saw the formation of<br />

Dion Chemicals, a division of Bennett Surfboards, which still to this<br />

day is responsible for the manufacturing of high quality polyurethane<br />

foam surfboard blanks, as well as importing and supplying high<br />

quality resins and other materials to local and overseas markets.<br />

The company currently is considered to be one of the three main<br />

suppliers of surfboard blanks in the world with Burford Blanks<br />

(Queensland, Australia) and US Blanks (California, USA).<br />

In 2005 Barry Bennett was inducted into the Australian Surfing<br />

Hall of Fame and in 2009 was the first Australian to be welcomed<br />

to the Californian Surfing Hall of Fame for his contribution to the<br />

sport globally.<br />

At 80 years of age, Barry is a highly respected figure within the<br />

surfboard manufacturing industry. Still today, he can be found<br />

working, blowing blanks in the Brookvale factory and is still the<br />

Managing Director of the company.<br />

Bennett Surfboards has been in the surfboard business longer<br />

than any other Australian manufacturer. It is very much a family<br />

business. Barry’s sons Greg and John along with sister Kathy work<br />

hard in the business.<br />

Greg said, “The Isaac Fields 9’2” or 9’4” x 23 ½” x 3 ¼“ noserider<br />

shaped by Peter Stockert is the most requested model at the<br />

moment, closely followed by a new all-round performance model.”<br />

Along with a consistent demand for mini mals and longboards Greg<br />

said, “We have always maintained strong roots in the Surf Life<br />

Saving environment.<br />

“We continue to supply heaps of paddle and rescue boards to<br />

overseas and local clubs.The Bennett name is highly valued<br />

amongst the Surf Life Saving fraternity and many Australian and<br />

130 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


TRAVEL:ROADTRIP<br />

World Titles have been won on Bennett boards in the<br />

last 40 plus years.”<br />

Another stalwart of the surf industry in and around the<br />

Northern Beaches is Ron Wade. Ron first began shaping<br />

back in 1964 with Dale Surfboards in Brookvale before<br />

starting up his own business, Ron Wade Surfboards,<br />

in 1967. He later opened retail stores in Collaroy Beach<br />

and on the Gold Coast.<br />

Through the late 60s and into the 70s he had some of<br />

the hottest young surfing talents either surfing for him<br />

and/or working at the factory - names such as Richard<br />

Harvey, Ted Spencer, Bruce Channon, Col Smith, Tony<br />

Dempsey, Ian Goodacre, Rob Stainford and Colin Gow,<br />

to name a few.<br />

Ron retired from the surf industry in 1978 to pursue a<br />

career in real estate. It was only after many requests<br />

from local surfers still fond of his craftsmanship that he<br />

decided to start making boards again in recent years.<br />

To this day he shapes a broad range of performance<br />

shortboards through to funboards, mals and customs.<br />

Ron has always been a Northern Beaches boy and heavily<br />

involved in the Mona Vale Boardriders Club. In fact he<br />

has lived at the same house in Mona Vale right near the<br />

beach since 1952 when he was only 5 years of age.<br />

“The surf has changed through the years with progress<br />

– the buildings affect wind conditions and the like – but<br />

the place is still special and it is home.<br />

“When I started surfing here, boards were 9’3” with a<br />

½” cedar stringer and heavy. It was the pioneering days<br />

and foam was ‘new’.<br />

“BY THE ‘70S A NEW BREED OF<br />

SHAPERS HAD MOVED IN ON THE<br />

NORTHERN BEACHES SURF SCENE”<br />

TOP LEFT: Bennett surfboards make up part<br />

of the display at the Surf City exhibition.<br />

Photo: Bruce Usher<br />

BOTTOM LEFT: Early Ron Wade ad featuring<br />

surfboard, Ron, and a young Richard Harvey.<br />

ABOVE: Terry Fitzgerald and his quiver, 1977.<br />

Photo: Mcleod-Aitionn, courtesy of Surf City<br />

RIGHT: The classic Barry Bennett ‘Running<br />

Man’ logo and surfboard decal.<br />

CARRYING THE FLAME<br />

By the ‘70s a new breed of shapers had moved in on<br />

the Northern Beaches surf scene. A name synonymous<br />

with this era was Terry Fitzgerald. After learning his<br />

craft at Joe Larkin’s surfboard factory on the Gold Coast<br />

working alongside the likes of Peter Drouyn, Peter<br />

Townend, Michael Peterson and Bob McTavish, he set<br />

up Hot Buttered Surfboards in a dilapidated old house<br />

in Brookvale.<br />

As a surfer, Terry Fitzgerald was a man that could ride<br />

any wave in the world on his own craft with an amazing<br />

amount of speed and flair. As a shaper, he was one<br />

of the men behind the introduction of the spiral vee<br />

and wings into surfboard design of the time. Along<br />

with these unique design features his boards became<br />

widely known for their psychedelic sprays by the equally<br />

talented Martin Worthington.<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

131


“I HAVE BEEN LUCKY<br />

ENOUGH TO HAVE SOME<br />

REALLY GREAT, LOYAL<br />

PEOPLE WORK WITH ME<br />

OVER THE YEARS”<br />

PETER DANIELL - DIVISION SURF<br />

Photos of Peter Daniell courtesy of Division Surf<br />

So many famous names worked<br />

for Hot Buttered through the<br />

years, guys like Simon Anderson,<br />

Col Smith, Derek Hynd and Greg<br />

Webber.<br />

Around this same time, another<br />

talented shaper emerged having<br />

first started shaping in the<br />

backyard shed of his parent’s<br />

house at age 13. Peter Daniell<br />

set up Daniell Surfboards in a<br />

shop/factory in Waterloo Street<br />

in Narrabeen and another shop<br />

in St Ives.<br />

Years later he moved the factory<br />

from Narrabeen to Duffy’s Forest<br />

and then to Polo Avenue at Mona<br />

Vale, where it is today. Around<br />

that time he started another shop<br />

in Mona Vale with the help of Tim<br />

Storer. It was while the factory<br />

was at Polo Avenue that Nick<br />

Pope and Peter decided to change<br />

the business name from ‘Daniell’<br />

to ‘Division’.<br />

Through the decades since, Peter<br />

has mentored many outstanding<br />

shapers, sponsored a host of<br />

world tour surfers and employed<br />

young sales staff that have<br />

gone on to manage some of the<br />

nation’s biggest surf/street retail<br />

operations and international<br />

apparel heavyweights. It’s<br />

uncanny how many surf industry<br />

leaders have risen under his<br />

tutelage. Yet, despite all that, if<br />

you drop into the Division shop at<br />

Mona Vale or Peter’s shaping bay<br />

in Polo Ave you encounter nothing<br />

but a humble, unassuming, albeit<br />

fiercely independent man.<br />

Peter describes life on the<br />

Peninsula:<br />

“Obviously one of the best points<br />

is the beaches and Pittwater. The<br />

quality of the water has improved<br />

so much, and it’s amazing how<br />

un-crowded the surf can be some<br />

days. We have the advantages of<br />

city living without the high-rise<br />

and the trains etc. The amount<br />

of talent in art, music and sport<br />

is just awesome. We have some<br />

incredibly good restaurants,<br />

shops and cafes.”<br />

As to what makes Division so<br />

special - it’s the basic principles<br />

of a successful family business.<br />

132 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


“We totally design and make our own<br />

boards in our own factory to sell in<br />

our own shop. We are an independent<br />

business and not a chain. We are a family<br />

business, my mum and sisters and wife<br />

have all worked in the St Ives store. My<br />

son Ryan managed Mona Vale for a couple<br />

of years and now younger son Mark is in<br />

charge. I have been lucky enough to have<br />

some really great, loyal people work with<br />

me over the years – Simon Haskell, Toby<br />

Sams, Jason Haynes, Justin Wong and<br />

Kyla Sherman just to name a few.”<br />

And as to the future of modern surfcraft,<br />

Peter is equally positive about the outlook.<br />

“I believe the future is looking bright.<br />

PU surfboards are still the mainstay of<br />

production with an increase of high-tech<br />

materials with epoxy resin and fabric<br />

moving into the market as the prices<br />

become more affordable.”<br />

WELCOME<br />

THE<br />

NEW BREED<br />

Skip forward to the 21st century and the Northern Beaches’ surf<br />

industry is just as exciting and dynamic as it ever was.<br />

The kids have grown up and a whole host of new shapers are making<br />

a name for themselves on the local and even global stage. With all<br />

manner and scale of production, the younger shapers have drawn their<br />

inspiration and knowledge from the previous generation and have<br />

added a few of their own game-changing twists to it all.<br />

We talk to two of the area’s most popular shapers, Blake Peters of<br />

Panda Surfboards and Mark Gnech of Vampirate Surfboards.<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

133


BLAKE PETERS OF PANDA...<br />

THE KIDS ARE ALRIGHT<br />

At just 26 years of age Blake Peters of Panda Surfboards<br />

in Mona Vale is one of, if not the youngest shaper on the<br />

peninsula, which explains his passion and focus on shaping<br />

high performance craft for some of the best groms in the hood.<br />

Blake was born and bred on the Northern Beaches and has<br />

been sniffing foam dust since he was 16, when he started<br />

working for a ding repairer and in a few local surf stores. At 18,<br />

he scored a job with Luke Short at LSD, working in the shop and<br />

sweeping the bays.<br />

After returning from an overseas jaunt in 2005 however, he<br />

found himself without the option of jumping back in at LSD,<br />

which had moved to Yamba. It was pretty much at that moment<br />

that Blake decided what he wanted to do and started really<br />

learning the ropes of shaping. He eventually started a little ding<br />

repair business to fund his obsession and everything just grew<br />

organically from there, into what Panda Surfboards is today.<br />

Since those early days Blake’s been fortunate enough to work<br />

alongside most of the better shapers up the Peninsula end of<br />

the Beaches in some shape or form. He originally shared a<br />

factory with Sean Wilde and Mark Gnech where he learned<br />

a lot, he tells us. He also worked alongside Steve Zoeller<br />

“WE MAKE<br />

HEAPS OF<br />

THE SHORT,<br />

FAT STUFF”<br />

Blake Peters . Photo supplied<br />

from Energy, has sanded for Pete Daniell from Division, Aido<br />

Wheeler from Rusty and even had a go at blowing blanks.<br />

These days Panda surfboard designs really focus on producing<br />

high performance boards for kids that rip. While he caters for<br />

older guys too and shapes pretty much everything including<br />

SUPS, he really puts a lot of time into the local grom scene.<br />

“We have a bunch of high performance models specifically<br />

designed for the groms, so we tend to get a lot of them riding<br />

our boards” Blake says. “Our brand image is deliberately young<br />

and fresh, so we inevitably tend to appeal to the kids.”<br />

“We make heaps of the short fat stuff, heaps of hyped-up<br />

performance shorties and anything that’s fun, anything that the<br />

new, above-the-lip generation is into. We were one of the first<br />

board manufactures to offer a full online store. You can order<br />

online or see and purchase anything we are carrying in stock.”<br />

Blake’s personal favourite is the Smoking trout - a short,<br />

fat 5’7” design that’s refined to surf harder, and hold better<br />

in bigger stuff. His most popular is the trout or the Friendly<br />

Salmon which is a real little fatty awesome board for the<br />

Northern Beaches in summer. He is also injecting two new<br />

models hoping to release them just in time for this summer -<br />

the Ford Archibald signature model and the Fang Banger - both<br />

short and fat.<br />

134 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

135


136 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


The shaping-bay-meets-jam-room, that Mark Gnech and the Drunken Sailors call second home.<br />

TRAVEL:ROADTRIP<br />

MARK GNECH OF VAMPIRATE SURFBOARDS... HE WALKS AMONG US<br />

Born and bred in Western Australia,<br />

Mark Gnech of Vampirate<br />

Surfboards is way more chilled<br />

and understated than 99.9 per<br />

cent of Sydney surfers. This is<br />

possibly because he was bitten<br />

by a vampire, around the time his<br />

surfing addiction kicked in on the<br />

day his oldies bought him a Hanimex<br />

twin fin when he was twelve. Ever<br />

since his first ride on that foamy he<br />

has been hooked. Initially his life<br />

completely revolved around wave<br />

riding, but now it’s totally dedicated<br />

to designing and manufacturing<br />

incredible surfboards.<br />

Mark’s been living on the beach at<br />

Narrabeen for the past fifteen years,<br />

making treasured lifelong friends<br />

including his business partner in<br />

Vampirate Surfboards Ozzie<br />

Wright, and a bunch of Northern<br />

Beaches musos and artists, too<br />

numerous to name.<br />

His shaping bay in Polo Ave, Mona<br />

Vale is steeped in history, in a shared<br />

space that contains Zoeller of Energy<br />

Surfboards shaping bay, Sean Wilde<br />

of Wilde Surfboard’s bay, and a<br />

classic band jam room that often<br />

transforms into party central. When<br />

not shaping, Sean and Mark are<br />

bandmates in The Drunken Sailors,<br />

often to be heard jamming loud and<br />

proud of an afternoon or evening.<br />

Surfboard design comes first with<br />

rock’n’roll as a natural extension of<br />

his creative lifestyle. Mark, who also<br />

makes boards under the Gnech brand,<br />

takes pride in shaping seriously cool<br />

boards that just scream individual.<br />

He also still does boards for crew<br />

in WA and makes all styles of craft<br />

- from mean Indo guns to fun wider<br />

boards for summer slop. It goes<br />

without saying that the insane Ozzie<br />

Wright artwork on Vampirate boards<br />

also sets them apart.<br />

When it comes to influences<br />

and inspirations, Mark’s always<br />

been inspired by shapers like Bob<br />

McTavish who he notes, “still surfs<br />

so good!” but once you check out a<br />

Vampirate board, you’ll agree it’s all<br />

about the Rock ‘n Roll.<br />

For more info, drop Mark a line on<br />

info@vampiratesurfboards.com<br />

For the music, check out the band on<br />

reverbnation.com/drunkensailors<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

137


138 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

TALKING SHOP<br />

Time spent behind the counter, chatting to generations of surfers that pass through<br />

the doors gives surf shop operators an invaluable insight into the unique goings on<br />

of their beach. One of these long-term operators is Tim Hanrahan, so who better to<br />

start off with for some advice on getting the best out of a Northern Beaches visit?


Tim of Aloha Surf, out at his<br />

other day-job. Photo: Supplied<br />

TRAVEL:ROADTRIP<br />

But first, a little introduction. Tim is the<br />

quintessential down to earth, laidback<br />

northern beaches surfer, family man and head<br />

honcho of the longest running surf hardwear<br />

shop in Manly - Aloha Surf. He’s a surfboard<br />

salesman extraordinaire.<br />

BEN: HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN<br />

LIVING ON THE NORTHERN BEACHES<br />

FOR, TIM?<br />

Tim Hanrahan: I have been living on the<br />

Northern Beaches since 1986. I came to<br />

Australia as a 19 year-old fresh-faced kiwi<br />

grom. I spent a couple of years travelling<br />

around Oz in an old kombi. I settled down in<br />

Manly after scoring a job working for Greg<br />

Clough, John Brookes and Dooma Hardman<br />

when they opened the first Aloha store<br />

in Collaroy. Basically I just loved surfing,<br />

hanging at the beach, the sun, water, parties<br />

- all the fun stuff all grommets young and old<br />

still love to do now.<br />

I started just cleaning boards, tidying up and<br />

talking to customers trying to help them find<br />

what they needed. It was easy and fun and I<br />

enjoyed talking to crew about waves, boards<br />

and stuff. I soon worked out the role suited<br />

me, as selling boards came fairly easily to me<br />

probably because I was totally obsessed with<br />

surfing and particularly board design.<br />

I guess I slowly moved up through the shop<br />

hierarchy, eventually becoming manager of<br />

the store. The boys decided to open another<br />

Aloha shop in Manly in about 1991, so I<br />

moved here and over time I slowly bought<br />

shares off the directors and took over as head<br />

of operations.<br />

WHAT ARE THE BEST AND WORST<br />

POINTS ABOUT LIFE IN AND AROUND<br />

MANLY?<br />

To be honest the waves can be average at<br />

times, although as far as big cities go it’s<br />

fairly consistently rideable, it’s just the quality<br />

is not amazing very often. The crowds are<br />

pretty intense, especially on weekends, but<br />

the boys in the shop usually have the odd<br />

week day off, so it’s way less crowded. There<br />

are always heaps of social events on, so life<br />

is never dull. There are heaps of great bars,<br />

restaurants and all types of different people.<br />

I have lots of great mates, especially all the<br />

real local surfers.<br />

FAVOURITE WAVE HAUNTS AND TIPS<br />

FOR WAVE CHASERS<br />

Anywhere away from the pack. I love getting<br />

out of Sydney for the day with a few mates.<br />

Generally though when I’m busy I mainly surf<br />

Manly, Freshy or Curly.<br />

This year was pretty good in April, May and<br />

a bit of June. In fact, probably those months<br />

every year are generally best in these parts;<br />

with the exception of a few late summer E or<br />

NE cyclone swells. Favourite days are those<br />

rare six to eight foot mid week North Steyne<br />

sessions with the boys.<br />

BEST LOCAL CAFES AND EATERIES<br />

I love Hugo’s on the wharf for a nice weekday<br />

lunch with the missus. ‘Jocks’ is always a<br />

great lunch and Manly Thai Gourmet is the<br />

only place you can get a feed for $8 and it’s<br />

proper good. Manly has more eateries than<br />

some countries.<br />

AROUND THE SAME<br />

time Tim Hanrahan was settling into his new<br />

life in Manly, further up the road the origins<br />

of a specialist wetsuit store were in the<br />

making, albeit accidentally.<br />

You see Peter Ford’s Long Reef Surf<br />

shop on Pittwater Road in Collaroy was<br />

originally planned to be a clearance centre<br />

for a container load of windsurfers he had<br />

imported. When the goods got waylaid and<br />

didn’t arrive until the end of windsurfing<br />

season, Peter needed to work out a way to<br />

survive the winter. With his final $3000 he<br />

decided to sell wetsuits. He opened the doors<br />

of his Collaroy store on April Fool’s day, 1985.<br />

Needless to say, business wasn’t exactly<br />

pumping in those early days, so Peter was a<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

139


great fan of the weekly lottery ticket. He named all of<br />

his tickets “Long Reef Express”, because if he won,<br />

he planned to get the hell out of there!<br />

Gradually business began to pick up though, and as<br />

Peter added various items to the product mix, he was<br />

given the licence for one major brand after another.<br />

Within years he found himself running a major<br />

windsurfing/surf shop and had no time to purchase<br />

lottery tickets.<br />

Windsurfing grew rapidly in the late eighties,<br />

ensuring Long Reef Surf expanded in leaps and<br />

bounds, growing to a chain of three stores, before<br />

trimming back all the way in 2005 when Pete decided<br />

to consolidate all his efforts into the original Long<br />

Reef Surf.<br />

While still mainly specialising in wetsuits, Peter<br />

expanded the surf shop to include a huge range of<br />

other water sports and accessories from skateboards<br />

and body boards to beach tents and much more.<br />

Today Long Reef Surf also specialise in softboards for<br />

kids and adult beginners to get into surfing. There is<br />

a bit of science to finding the right kind of softboard<br />

that still surfs similar to a fiberglass board and this is<br />

where the expertise comes in handy for the novice.<br />

Peter and family still love the social and community<br />

interaction working on the floor of the shop most<br />

though. Peter said, “There is always someone to<br />

make our day like the self proclaimed wetsuit expert<br />

who tried his wetsuit on backwards, the size 10<br />

girl who insisted on buying the size 14 because the<br />

colour matched her thongs, or just the never ending<br />

spectacular temper tantrums from kids who want<br />

“that” NOW.”<br />

That customer interaction is also what Andy Lye and<br />

John Radford, the owners of Dripping Wet, thrive<br />

upon and what keeps them stoked. Of course, when<br />

your store is right across the road from the beach, it<br />

definitely helps.<br />

Andy, John and all their staff are super friendly and<br />

very low key. Their massive surf hardware shop is the<br />

goods and they don’t consider themselves cool in any<br />

way, shape or form.<br />

When you walk into Dripping Wet you immediately<br />

pick up on the vibe that the sales team are basically<br />

just happy to be working across the road from the<br />

beach doing something they love doing. It is straight<br />

up, that plain and simple. There is no pretension.<br />

Andy said, “We really go out of our way to make each<br />

and every person that purchases off us happy with<br />

the service and products. We focus on hardware -<br />

products that you actually surf on, or will keep you<br />

warm in the water. The emphasis is definitely on<br />

function rather than fashion.”<br />

Andy and John brought Dripping Wet from the<br />

previous owner Mark Atkinson 14 years ago, as both<br />

a business and lifestyle move, because they wanted<br />

to continue working in a culture and industry they<br />

both enjoyed.<br />

MAIN: Andy Lye from Dripping Wet<br />

is no slouch in the surf.<br />

BELOW: The friendly faces of Long<br />

Reef Surf in Collaroy<br />

“THERE IS ALWAYS SOMEONE TO MAKE OUR DAY”<br />

PETER FORD, ON WORKING IN-STORE<br />

L-R: Jade, Karen, Peter and Samantha - The Long Reef team.<br />

140 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


When quizzed on the future of surf retail Andy said, “The surf industry<br />

is forever evolving. There will always be new threats to business no<br />

matter what size you are.”<br />

While positive, he did express concern over potential discounting<br />

price wars from the big players hurting the smaller guys.<br />

“Discounting leaves less and less room for business to be a viable<br />

option to operate. When selling a surf product there is a price and<br />

that price supports the manufacturer, distributor and the retailer and<br />

of course the taxman and the entire Australian economy.”<br />

Kye Fitzgerald of Raised by Wolves is even more direct in his<br />

assessment of the current status quo with regards to surf retail. He<br />

believes Australian surf retail needs to clarify what it is about.<br />

He and his business partners set about liberating the Northern<br />

Beaches shopper from what he describes as the ‘chain store overkill’<br />

when they opened the doors to their first store in Avalon back in<br />

2006. Raised by Wolves was borne out of a collective desire to<br />

support independent surf and skate film makers, clothing designers,<br />

and surf and skateboard manufacturers.<br />

“The horrid commercial saturation of surfing and skate has lead to<br />

a strong undercurrent of surfers and skaters searching for a better<br />

representation of who they are.<br />

“It might be a spell of nostalgia harking back to the golden era of<br />

surfing and skate in the 70s, or it might be a craving for individuality<br />

and creativity that can only be found from smaller surfer, skater-<br />

BOOK NOW!<br />

(02) 9977 6977<br />

BOOKINGS@MANLYSURFSCHOOL.COM<br />

www.MANLYSURFSCHOOL.COM<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

141


142 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


Inside Little Dragon<br />

owned companies that are prepared to take risks. Sometimes flamboyant,<br />

sometimes subtle.”<br />

No visit to Sydney’s northern beaches is complete without a visit to Mick<br />

Mock’s Little Dragon. It is one, if not the best surf collectables and<br />

memorabilia shop in the entire country.<br />

Pretty big statement? Walk into this tiny little store and it is like<br />

stepping into Dr Who’s tardis. You won’t believe how many vintage<br />

surfboards, skateboards and just how much surf culture is crammed into<br />

such a small space.<br />

And to leave the Northern Beaches with a lasting reminder of a great<br />

visit, make sure you go into Mark Preece’s Manly Longboards for<br />

some very cool gear to wear for years to come - loud and proud.<br />

LIVING THE DREAM<br />

We’ll leave the final word to Wayne Ryan of Line Up Surf and Travel<br />

in Dee Why. Originally from Sydney’s Wild West, Wayne moved to<br />

Narrabeen before finally settling in Dee Why in 1981 when he discovered<br />

the crowd factor was less intense. In 1990 he bought Line Up Surf.<br />

“I just wanted to ‘live the dream’ work in my shop and get in the water<br />

each day. However I bought the store just as the surfing industry really<br />

exploded, so the days of closing the shop to go for a surf were over. It<br />

became serious business.”<br />

Aside from his surf shop and surf school, Wayne has developed another<br />

side to his business. Line Up now has several overseas surf resorts.<br />

As for Sydney, Wayne still believes it’s the best surf city in the world.<br />

“Sydney has it all, jobs, waves, lifestyle, entertainment, sport etc. The<br />

Northern beaches are the best part of Sydney, and Dee Why is the best<br />

spot on the Northern beaches.”<br />

MANLY<br />

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Stick It wax was formulated to stick to your board better than any other<br />

wax on the global market. Stick It doesn’t get bare patches and will<br />

often last over 3 times longer than your average wax giving you a longer<br />

more comfortable surfing session time after time!<br />

WWW.STICKITGROUP.COM<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

143


144 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


TRAVEL:ROADTRIP<br />

RIDING THE<br />

BIGGEST,<br />

WORKING THE<br />

SMALLEST<br />

Matt Grainger’s day off<br />

PHOTO: Mark ‘Crumpet’ Taylor<br />

It’s not just surf shop owners and shapers that get to pay<br />

the bills with surfing. Matt Grainger runs Manly Surf<br />

School, where the waves he gets people on are a far cry<br />

from the ones he rides himself.<br />

The Grainger brothers Matt, Tim and Arnie loom large on<br />

Sydney’s northern beaches. Between the three of them<br />

the trophy cabinet is overflowing with Australian, NSW<br />

and northern beaches titles.<br />

At 42, Matt is the eldest and also charges the hardest,<br />

building a reputation for regularly towing into the biggest<br />

bombs the northern beaches can deliver.<br />

He quietly goes about pursuing the big stuff with<br />

underground tow buddies Jason “The Captain” Gribble<br />

and Scotty Romain, rarely missing a swell. But he’s never<br />

been one to chase the limelight - he opts to let his surfing<br />

do the talking.<br />

His day job, however has scored him more limelight<br />

than he might have imagined, with his surf school at the<br />

centre of a reality television series, Manly Surf, which<br />

debuted in 2010 and is now in its second season.<br />

“The show is personality based with episodes featuring<br />

diverse crew like Peter Drouyn/Westerly and the navy<br />

harbour shark victim Paul De Gelder towing Longie<br />

Bombie with one arm and one leg for example.”<br />

Recently Matt purchased Manly SUP School off<br />

Barton Lynch and he also finds time to sell and distribute<br />

softboards to other surf schools around the country.<br />

With his staff of 30 including ex-pro surfers like Zahn<br />

Foxton, Chris Salisbury, Christo Hall and Steve Clements,<br />

they have brought the buzz of riding waves to tens of<br />

thousands of people since 1995.<br />

Catch the show, Manly Surf on the Nine Network,<br />

Sundays, for an insight into the day to day happenings of<br />

a surf school and check out manlysurfschool.com.<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

145


PHOTO: Joel Coleman<br />

CAPTURE THE MOMENT<br />

THE ENDLESS SURFING OPTIONS ON THE NORTHERN BEACHES IS WELL MATCHED BY THE ARMY OF TALENTED<br />

PHOTOGRAPHERS THAT CAPTURE THE IMAGERY AND VIBE OF THE AREA EVERY DAY, EACH WITH THEIR OWN UNIQUE<br />

STYLES, VOICE AND AREAS THEY COVER.<br />

For those not so lucky to live there, many of these<br />

dedicated lensmen put their work on display online and<br />

deliver fresh pics monthly, weekly and even daily.<br />

Joel Coleman and his wife Sherrie run a fast growing<br />

photo business in Manly. The Colemans have set up a<br />

thriving gallery and cafe and have also expanded in surf<br />

travel bookings and their own apparel line, while Joel<br />

continues to produce epic local imagery for the saltmotion<br />

email newsletter and prints in store. A talented writer as<br />

well, Joel’s off-the-beaten-track travel tales often appear<br />

in smorgasboarder - check out last edition’s cracking tale<br />

on Chile! Drop into the gallery at Market Place Manly for<br />

a coffee and chat.<br />

www.saltmotion.com<br />

Barnaby Egerton-Warburton and Murray Fraser get<br />

up pre-dawn every week day and shoot Manly, anywhere<br />

from Fairy Bower to Queenscliff for email newsletter<br />

Sprout Daily’s thousands of subscribers. Barnaby and<br />

Murray know most of the local crew and enjoy posting<br />

shots of the local community going about their daily<br />

business - whether that be someone taking a morning<br />

stroll on the promenade, a longboarder hanging five or a<br />

local legend doing a giant air.<br />

www.sproutdaily.com<br />

Up the road at Dee Why, Ian Bird has been making a<br />

name for himself in recent years with amazing line up<br />

shots of Dee Why Point, Long Reef Bomby, North and Sth<br />

Narrabeen and various other iconic northern beaches set<br />

ups. Ian says he tries not to miss a swell and always nabs<br />

a fresh angle. Ian has travelled the country shooting work<br />

for his commercial clients which include everyone from<br />

Virgin to The Governor General of Australia.<br />

www.ianbirdphotography.com or check out Ian’s<br />

Facebook page - http://www.facebook.com/pages/Ian-<br />

Bird-Photography/312669978346<br />

Around the bend is Alex Marks from Mona Vale, who<br />

sends out his Bluesnapper email newsletter to over 10,000<br />

subscribers. Focused on the Narrabeen to Palm Beach end<br />

of The Peninsula his work features water shots, epic line<br />

ups along with local profiles and portraits.<br />

Cooper Chapman PHOTO: Matt Dunbar<br />

146 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


Freshwater<br />

PHOTO: Mark ‘Crumpet’ Taylor<br />

TRAVEL:ROADTRIP<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

147


Ian Bird<br />

Alex Marks<br />

Jules Phillips<br />

To pay the bills, Alex also does commercial<br />

shoots and has recently self-published a 160-<br />

page hardcover book filled with his favourite<br />

images from the past 5 years. The limited run<br />

of 300 sold out instantly but there’s sure to be<br />

another one in the pipeline. Keep your ears<br />

and eyes open for the next one.<br />

www.bluesnapper.com.au<br />

Kiwi by birth, Jules Phillips of Oceaneye<br />

captures incredible water landscapes and<br />

has a knack of snapping picture perfect shots<br />

of Northern Beaches surfers in top early<br />

morning light. Broadening his subject matter,<br />

these days he’s found a new love in nature<br />

photography that’s built up into somewhat of<br />

an obsessions around birds, in particular.<br />

But Oceaneye is far from a conduit for Jules’<br />

work alone, with a number of talented<br />

photographers working under the same<br />

banner. Young gun Matt Dunbar is one of<br />

those talented souls, snapping all sorts of surf<br />

related subjects, from moody landscapes to<br />

high-performance surf moves.<br />

To see their work and that of the other<br />

talented photographers involved, visit<br />

www.oceaneye.com.au<br />

PHOTO: Michael Kellerman<br />

Joel Coleman Photo: Michael Kellerman<br />

Mark ‘Crumpet’ Taylor has a long list of<br />

photo cred to his name and is responsible<br />

for some classic of northern beaches surfing<br />

imagery. Well published, well travelled<br />

and well friendly... What more can we say?<br />

Crumpet’s work is just amazing.<br />

With a slightly different angle on surf<br />

photography, Michael Kellerman of Surf<br />

Photos of You provides surfers of all types and<br />

standards with the opportunity to get a photo of<br />

themselves for training, hanging in their office<br />

or home, or to prove you can actually nail a<br />

decent rooster tail... or even just stand up.<br />

Growing up on the Northern Beaches he<br />

started surfing at 11, he still surfs and takes<br />

pictures around Long Reef and Dee Why,<br />

and a lot more thesedays thanks to digital<br />

technology. “In the early days of the late 70s,<br />

it was all film-based and you had to watch<br />

your penny and how many pics you took,” he<br />

says. See if you can see a shot of yourself on<br />

www.surfphotosofyou.com.au<br />

Without the contributions and talent of local<br />

photographers, putting out an edition of<br />

smorgasboarder just would not be possible -<br />

or it least, it wouldn’t be near as interesting<br />

to look at - so support them when you’re after<br />

some fine wall art, just as you would support<br />

your local shaper.<br />

148 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


FORD ARCHBOLD<br />

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nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

149


PHOTO: Ian Bird<br />

EAT, DRINK & SLEEP<br />

Cokes Surf Villas - Maldives<br />

WWW.COKESSURFVILLAS.COM<br />

Maninoa Samoa<br />

WWW.MANINOA.COM<br />

Southern Maldives<br />

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LINE UP SURF<br />

CAMPS & RESORTS<br />

12b The Strand, Dee Why,<br />

Sydney NSW 2099<br />

Phone: 02 9971 8624<br />

150 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

WHERE TO STAY<br />

The Northern Beaches offers a range of<br />

accommodation – from upmarket hotels and<br />

boutique home stays to motels, bed and<br />

breakfasts and backpackers. While the bulk<br />

of the accommodation is at Manly, there’s<br />

number of options dotted along the peninsula.<br />

At the top end, sporting and movie stars often<br />

rent Palm Beach mansions during holiday periods.<br />

Paparazzi can often be spotted hiding out at<br />

South Palm Beach trying desperately to snare the<br />

elusive shot of Kidman and co out at the beach.<br />

At the other end of the spectrum, nestled<br />

between the lake and the ocean, Sydney<br />

Lakeside Holiday Park at Narrabeen is just 40<br />

minutes drive north of Sydney’s CBD. Literally<br />

across the road from North Narrabeen, it’s<br />

a popular, affordable option for surfers and<br />

families. Similarly The YHA Hostel at Collaroy<br />

offers accessibly priced accomodation for<br />

surfers, as does Backpackers at Manly.<br />

A personal favourite of ours is the Manly Lodge<br />

Boutique Hotel at 22 Victoria Parade. It offers<br />

simple, clean and affordable rooms, its central<br />

location is only 200m away from the beach.<br />

Public transport in the form of bus and ferry<br />

provides easy access to Manly, the city,<br />

Homebush Bay and even the Central Coast. If<br />

you prefer to drive, Sydney’s Metroad System<br />

makes it easy to get around - no matter from<br />

which direction you come, but as a visitor - if<br />

you don’t own one already - get a GPS and take<br />

the navigation headache out of the picture.<br />

For more information, check out the Sydney’s<br />

Northern Beaches Visitors Association at<br />

www.sydneybeaches.com.au and Manly<br />

Visitors Centre - www.manlytourism.com<br />

RESTAURANTS, CLUBS & CAFES.<br />

Sydney is renowned around the world for its<br />

exceptional food and that reputation is certainly<br />

upheld on the Northern Beaches. Dee Why and<br />

Manly both boast excellent seafront restaurants,<br />

with a number of superb restaurants with water<br />

views also located at Manly Wharf, Freshwater<br />

Beach, Cottage Point, Avalon Beach, Whale<br />

Beach and Palm Beach.<br />

For relaxed dining and entertainment, there are<br />

a few service clubs along the peninsula. The<br />

ultra-modern Dee Why RSL comes complete<br />

with evening floor shows, and a 10-pin bowling<br />

alley. The Harbord RSL is massive, complete<br />

with dining and band room, while the smaller<br />

Collaroy Services Club looks directly on to the<br />

beach. There are many great pubs to choose<br />

from - with the waterfront-based Newport<br />

Arms, the Harbord Hotel at Freshwater Beach,<br />

the Brookvale Hotel at Brookvale, Dee Why<br />

Hotel, The Steyne at Manly, The Sands at<br />

Narrabeen and Mona Vale Hotel among the<br />

better-known ones.<br />

A personal recommendation is the Nth Steyne<br />

Emporio, otherwise known as “Jocks” by local<br />

surfers. It’s located at 189 Pittwater Road a<br />

block inland from the Queenscliff end of Manly.<br />

Jocks is a great deli-come-coffee lounge where<br />

local surfers can chill, refuel and swap stories.<br />

Similarly Ocean Blend at 207 Ocean St in<br />

North Narrabeen is a great local surf hangout<br />

with exceptional coffee, but with the art,<br />

atmosphere and friendly folk, Saltmotion Cafe<br />

is our favourite by a country mile..<br />

With the food, just as with the waves, there’s<br />

something for all tastes and wallet sizes right<br />

up and down the peninsula.


Short to long, every Ron Wade Surfboard<br />

is built for peak performance<br />

Over 40 years of experience goes into every Ron Wade design.<br />

“After talking with Ron, I was<br />

confident with his 40-plus<br />

years of shaping and designing<br />

knowledge, that he could make<br />

me a board that could allow me to<br />

progress and do what I wanted.”<br />

(mention<br />

smorgasboarder to<br />

get a free leggie<br />

worth $45 with<br />

a new Ron Wade<br />

board order)<br />

Korey Fogden Photo: Alec<br />

Vandyke, Mona Vale<br />

Korey Fogden<br />

Korey Fogden is a rising star in the Mona Vale Boardriders Club and<br />

regularly places in the top 3 places in the under-15 yrs division.<br />

He proudly rides the 5’6” Airobatic model in smaller surf and a<br />

5’8” Blackfeather performance shortboard for bigger waves.<br />

Blackfeather<br />

“This board<br />

allows me to do<br />

360 degree<br />

snap turns”<br />

The Airobatic<br />

Korey’s first<br />

choice for<br />

doing the<br />

best aerials<br />

For more information and quotes,<br />

please contact us:<br />

sales@ronwadesurfboards.com.au<br />

Phone 02 9979 7071<br />

Mobile 0410 443 776<br />

Fax 61 2 82128039<br />

Visit Mona Vale showroom,<br />

open 9-4pm Sat or call me.<br />

www.ronwadesurfboards.com.au<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

151


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152 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

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BOARDS • SKATE • TESTS • REVIEWS • FASHION<br />

Ian with SURFDECAL.COM examples. PHOTO: Supplied<br />

PERFORMANCE<br />

FOR SURFERS<br />

The best you expect from a fin system!<br />

NOW IT’S PERSONAL<br />

CREATING AN INDIVIDUAL STATEMENT FOR<br />

YOUR NEW SURFBOARD, THE DIGITAL WAY<br />

As early as the 1950s, skateboards were decorated<br />

with decals and artwork and by the mid 80s the<br />

deck bottoms featured all sorts of elaborate designs<br />

and logos. It was as much a statement about the<br />

individuality of the skateboard fraternity as the<br />

skaters themselves.<br />

In the early 70s, custom psychedelic airbrush sprays<br />

made their way onto surfboards with each board<br />

unique in terms of its plan shape and artwork.<br />

But individual custom craft died away - in more<br />

ways than one - to be replaced by stark white<br />

performance shortboards until the resurgence of<br />

longboarding in the 90s introduced some colour<br />

back onto the surf scene.<br />

But not until relatively recently did the surf<br />

community start to truly personalise surfboards in a<br />

unique fashion once more. Posca pens became the<br />

weapon of choice and increasingly custom sprays<br />

have returned to the fore, but thanks to companies<br />

that offer digital decals, customising your surfboard<br />

nowadays has become a whole lot easier.<br />

SURFDECALS.COM, an Australian company based<br />

on Sydney’s Northern Beaches is a leading supplier of<br />

custom surfboard graphics. Ian Wallace, the owner,<br />

gives us a little insight into what can be achieved.<br />

“Any ideas you have - we can reproduce it, whether<br />

it be some artwork, a graphic or a photographic<br />

image. We fit it to the plan shape and it’s<br />

laminated under the fiberglass. If you can’t dream<br />

up something we have some of the best artists<br />

on our team, guys like Caspian de Looze with his<br />

PHOTO: Jim Goodrich<br />

schizophrenic surrealist street style drawing or<br />

Christian Chapman who has created artwork for<br />

most of the well known surfboard manufacturers in<br />

Australia... And most recently Josh Dowling, who<br />

does some amazing sprays. A lot of the leading<br />

shapers are now using our decals to heighten that<br />

custom aspect of their boards.”<br />

Through Ian we found out that you can really<br />

personalise your board with full size board graphics<br />

or small logos from as little as $70 to $100 bucks.<br />

So if you have an idea you want to bring to life on<br />

your next board, this is a great way to add that<br />

extra special touch. The digital decals are imaged<br />

using UV inks so they don’t fade away to nothing<br />

after a few surfs.<br />

For more information, and to get some graphics done<br />

for your next board, call Ian on 0419 264 975 or visit<br />

www.surfdecals.com for more information, full specs<br />

on supplying your artwork and even full instruction on<br />

how to apply the decal.<br />

PHOTO: Hive Swimwear Ian checks a Caspian decal in lamination<br />

QUALITY<br />

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nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

153


V2 CARBON FIBRE<br />

ULTRA FLEXTAIL<br />

V2 SUPERMAL<br />

LE’ NARD<br />

THE SPOON<br />

SIM-MINI<br />

Shaper: Mitchell Rae<br />

Specs: 6’4” x 18 ¾” x 2 5 / 8”<br />

Suits: Beach, reef and<br />

point breaks<br />

Description:<br />

Deep single concave with<br />

spiral chine entry. V2 Flex<br />

construction with full<br />

Carbon Flextail. This one is<br />

for those epic, perfect coral<br />

reef barrels.<br />

Construction:<br />

PU foam, strong, light<br />

glassing, gloss and polish<br />

Fins: Thruster or quad FCS<br />

compatible or Futures,<br />

your call.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Our latest innovation<br />

combining V2 stringers<br />

with original carbon<br />

Flextail.<br />

Shaper: Mitchell Rae<br />

Specs: 8’ x 21 ½” x 2 ¾”<br />

Description:<br />

Concave with chine<br />

control planes<br />

Construction:<br />

Shown with tints, pigments,<br />

gloss & polish. PU foam<br />

strong glass.<br />

Fins: Fins set up for 3 or 4<br />

FCS or Futures on request.<br />

I ride mine as a quad.<br />

Shapers Comment:<br />

A fabulous mid length all<br />

rounder that will perform<br />

in anything from beachies<br />

to barrels. Easy paddle<br />

and wave entry. True<br />

hi-performance... Carve,<br />

walk and glide.<br />

Ultra fast, smooth as silk.<br />

Feel the acceleration of<br />

the V2 Flex.<br />

Shaper: Thomas Bexon<br />

Dimensions:<br />

4’9” x 21 ½” x 2 ½”<br />

Ideal conditions: Hip<br />

high to your hearts content.<br />

Suits: Anyone who likes<br />

to go fast.<br />

Ability level:<br />

Intermediate to advanced<br />

plus beginners looking to<br />

try something new.<br />

Description: A mini-<br />

Simmons inspired superfast,<br />

super maneuverable,<br />

agile board built for fun<br />

Construction:<br />

Stringerless styrofoam<br />

with epoxy resin, super<br />

light and responsive.<br />

Fins: Glass on twin keel<br />

or quad, fin systems also<br />

available.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Call me.<br />

Shaper: Thomas Bexon<br />

Dimensions: 5’ x 21”<br />

Ideal conditions:<br />

Chest high and bigger<br />

with push and shape.<br />

Suits: George, or anyone<br />

after a challenge who<br />

has an understanding<br />

of one of the key crafts<br />

responsible for the<br />

shortboard revolution.<br />

Ability level:<br />

Intermediate to advanced,<br />

not easy to ride.<br />

Description: A<br />

collectable, challenging,<br />

craft that is as much<br />

a design piece, like an<br />

Eames chair or a VW<br />

Karman Ghia.<br />

Construction: Long and<br />

labour intensive, foam<br />

and fiberglass, two-step<br />

shape process, 20-step<br />

glass process, lots of<br />

individual layers of<br />

fiberglass to give a clear<br />

panel 20 layers thick.<br />

Fins: Glass on single,<br />

flex fin<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Call me.<br />

Shaper: Dave Verrall<br />

Dimensions:<br />

5’0” x 22 ¼” x 2 5 /8”= 37L<br />

Ideal conditions: Fun,<br />

clean conditions with long<br />

rides to have your way<br />

with anything you like.<br />

Suits: Anyone as long as<br />

you have been surfing for<br />

a couple years and know<br />

what you’re doing out there.<br />

Description: Our revised<br />

and updated Mini-sim.<br />

based on a few years of<br />

playing with this style<br />

of board we have gone<br />

shorter and added volume<br />

creating an agile little craft<br />

for pleasure on the points.<br />

Don’t fall for those who<br />

pull in the tail - these love<br />

a straight outline in the tail<br />

and a wall to ride on.<br />

Construction: Traditional<br />

Burfords PU Foam,<br />

Baymills Glass & Silmar<br />

resins, tints and pigments.<br />

Fins: Twin made by Dave<br />

Shaper comment: Never<br />

had so much fun and<br />

amazing feedback from<br />

a board that challenges<br />

common thinking. We have<br />

demos at our shop, But you<br />

pretty much have to book<br />

to get one to ride as they<br />

are very sought after!<br />

OUTER ISLAND<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

7 Bayldon Drive,<br />

Raleigh, NSW<br />

Ph: 02 6655 7007<br />

info@outerislandsurfboards.com<br />

outerislandsurfboards.com<br />

OUTER ISLAND<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

7 Bayldon Drive,<br />

Raleigh, NSW<br />

Ph: 02 6655 7007<br />

info@outerislandsurfboards.com<br />

outerislandsurfboards.com<br />

THOMAS SURFBOARDS<br />

PO Box 234<br />

Maroochydore Qld 4558<br />

Ph: 0412 131 491<br />

thomas_bexon@hotmail.com<br />

thomassurfboards.com<br />

THOMAS SURFBOARDS<br />

PO Box 234<br />

Maroochydore Qld 4558<br />

Ph: 0412 131 491<br />

thomas_bexon@hotmail.com<br />

thomassurfboards.com<br />

DIVERSE SURFBOARDS<br />

476 Gold Coast Hwy,<br />

Tugun, QLD 4224<br />

Ph: 07 5598 4848<br />

dave@diversesurf.com.au<br />

diversesurf.com.au<br />

154 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


GEAR: BOARDS<br />

SHAPER’S PROMOTION<br />

GRAVE DIGGER<br />

THE RAINBOW<br />

HULAWINDY<br />

OLD SKOOL<br />

4567 MODEL<br />

Shaper: Mark Gnech<br />

Specs: 5’2” x 20” x 2 5 / 8”<br />

Ideal conditions: 1-4ft<br />

Suits: All<br />

Description:<br />

Cheater 5 Tube Jive in now.<br />

Too easy.<br />

Construction:<br />

PU Dion blank, 4+4 deck,<br />

4 bottom<br />

Fins: Twinnie or Quad<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

So much speed it’s<br />

freedom guaranteed.<br />

VAMPIRATE surfboards<br />

arr Australian made. Art<br />

by Ozzie Wright, Designs<br />

by Mark Gnech.<br />

Shaper: Mark Gnech<br />

Specs: 5’6” x 20” x 2 ¼”<br />

Ideal conditions:<br />

Small, summer waves<br />

Suits: All<br />

Description:<br />

This is 1 of those boards<br />

that will do anything you<br />

want it to...<br />

Construction:<br />

PU Dion blank, 4+4 deck,<br />

4 bottom<br />

Fins: Thruster or Quad<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Small wave summer fun<br />

VAMPIRATE surfboards<br />

arr Australian made. Art<br />

by Ozzie Wright, Designs<br />

by Mark Gnech.<br />

Shaper: Sean Wilde<br />

Specs: 9’4” x 23” x 2 ¾”<br />

Ideal conditions:<br />

Small waves everywhere.<br />

Suits: All<br />

Description:<br />

Classic noserider available<br />

in bell pin and square tails.<br />

Construction:<br />

PU Dion blank, 6+6 deck,<br />

6 bottom<br />

Fins: 10” box or glassed<br />

on hatchet fin.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Walk the plank.<br />

VAMPIRATE surfboards<br />

arr Australian made. Art<br />

by Ozzie Wright, Designs<br />

by Mark Gnech.<br />

Shaper: Peter White<br />

Glasser: Brett White<br />

Finishing: Ricky<br />

Typical: 9’3 x 23” x 2 7 /8”<br />

to any size you want.<br />

Ideal: Small to medium<br />

point style waves.<br />

Description: Like all<br />

older style boards they<br />

can take a bit to master,<br />

but when tamed, they are<br />

an absolute treat to ride.<br />

The extra weight of these<br />

boards gives a beautiful<br />

flowing feel. The soft rolled<br />

vee allows for smooth<br />

rail-to-rail transition. Don’t<br />

expect to be doing “airs” or<br />

slashing cut backs... These<br />

boards work in harmony<br />

with the wave.<br />

Construction: PU foam<br />

9” - 12” stringer. Glassing<br />

7.5 oz bottom with 7.5 +<br />

6oz deck.<br />

Fins: Fixed fin or single<br />

fin-box.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

“Get back to where it all<br />

began”...a different ride,<br />

once mastered, you’ll enjoy<br />

forever!<br />

Shaper: Peter White<br />

Glasser: Brett White<br />

Finishing: Ricky<br />

Typical: 9’1” x 22” x 2 ½”<br />

Ideal: Small to sizeable.<br />

Beach break - Points -<br />

Reef break.<br />

Description: The board<br />

fits the one board for all<br />

occasions category. It’s<br />

been the flagship of the<br />

fleet for many, many, years.<br />

“If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.”<br />

Great on the nose. Loose<br />

off the tail. Vee through the<br />

tail, light vee through the<br />

middle. Nose concave.<br />

Construction: PU Foam.<br />

6mm stringer. 6oz bottom, 6<br />

+ 4oz deck.<br />

Fins: 2 + 1 or thruster fins.<br />

Shaper comment: I rode<br />

my 4567 this morning.<br />

Waist high, north end of<br />

Sunshine Beach... Had a<br />

ball... You will too!<br />

VAMPIRATE<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

3/4 Harkeith St,<br />

Mona Vale, NSW<br />

Ph: 0401 255 546<br />

info@vampiratesurfboards.com<br />

vampiratesurfboards.com<br />

VAMPIRATE<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

3/4 Harkeith St,<br />

Mona Vale, NSW<br />

Ph: 0401 255 546<br />

info@vampiratesurfboards.com<br />

vampiratesurfboards.com<br />

VAMPIRATE<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

3/4 Harkeith St,<br />

Mona Vale, NSW<br />

Ph: 0401 255 546<br />

info@vampiratesurfboards.com<br />

vampiratesurfboards.com<br />

CLASSIC MALIBU<br />

Cnr Gibson & Eumundi Rd<br />

Noosaville, QLD 4566<br />

Ph: 07 5474 3122<br />

info@classicmalibu.com<br />

www.classicmalibu.com<br />

CLASSIC MALIBU<br />

Cnr Gibson & Eumundi Rd<br />

Noosaville, QLD 4566<br />

Ph: 07 5474 3122<br />

info@classicmalibu.com<br />

www.classicmalibu.com<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

155


WINNER!<br />

Surfboard<br />

description of<br />

the year!<br />

EL PESCADO<br />

Shaper: Rory Oke<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’4” x 21” x 2 ½”<br />

Ideal conditions: 1-5ft<br />

Suits: Everyone<br />

Description: Plenty of<br />

volume throughout with<br />

a pulled in tail. Slight<br />

single concave through<br />

the middle to a deeper<br />

scooped vee starting in<br />

front of the fins<br />

Construction: Ocean<br />

Foam blank, 6oz glass,<br />

sanded finish.<br />

Fins: Speeedfins<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Perfect for summer<br />

Victorian beachbreaks.<br />

The volume will get you<br />

into waves early while the<br />

pulled in tail combined<br />

with the scooped vee<br />

makes the board not only<br />

manouvere easily, but<br />

hold through turns.<br />

THE SERPENT<br />

Shaper: Chok Oke<br />

Dimensions:<br />

5’9” x 85kgs<br />

Suits: Only weddings and<br />

funerals.<br />

Description: 56 year<br />

old male from Edithvale.<br />

Making surfboards to<br />

fund an aspiring career in<br />

pigeon racing.<br />

Construction:<br />

10% bones, 90% hot air<br />

Fins: Great for diving.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Why did I let Dan and<br />

Rory fill this out?<br />

FISH FINGER<br />

Shaper: Peter Daniell<br />

Specs: 6’0” x 20” x 2 3 / 8”<br />

Sizes from 5’2” - 7’2”<br />

Wave Range: 1ft - 5ft<br />

Suits: Intermediate to<br />

advanced surfer<br />

Description: An easy<br />

paddling, high in volume,<br />

super fast and skatey<br />

twin fin. This board is the<br />

evolution of the single<br />

fin - wider throughout<br />

with more concave<br />

in the bottom, lower<br />

rails leading to a wide<br />

swallow tail.<br />

Construction: Glassing<br />

lightwight to strong. Epoxy<br />

also available.<br />

Fins: Twin, available with<br />

a center stabilizer. Fins<br />

can be fixed or your choice<br />

of removable system.<br />

Shaper comment: This<br />

is your ultimate summer<br />

fish, super fast loose and<br />

fun twiny. Ride this board<br />

3 to 6 inches shorter than<br />

your normal board.<br />

ONLY CHILD<br />

Shaper: Peter Daniell<br />

Specs: 6’0” x 20” x 2 3 / 8”<br />

Sizes from 5’5” - 7’0”<br />

Wave Range: 2ft - 8ft<br />

Suits: Intermediate to<br />

advanced surfer<br />

Description: A traditional<br />

outline blended with a<br />

modern bottom deep single<br />

to double concave. This<br />

board features a gloss and<br />

polished finish.<br />

Construction: Your<br />

choice of glassing<br />

weights - lightweight to<br />

strong - as well as tints,<br />

sprays, and finishes.<br />

Epoxy models also<br />

available on custom order.<br />

Fins: Fitted with a 10” fin<br />

box giving you option to<br />

experiment different fins.<br />

Can also be custom made<br />

with a glassed-in fin.<br />

Shaper comment: A<br />

high in volume fast paddler<br />

single fin surfboard.<br />

BURNING BURRITO<br />

Shaper: Peter Daniell<br />

Specs: 5’6” x 19 ¼” x 2 ¼”<br />

Sizes from: 5’3” - 6’4”<br />

Wave Range: 1ft - 6ft<br />

Suits: Intermediate to<br />

advanced surfer<br />

Description: A high<br />

performance small wave<br />

board. Tail mostly square,<br />

however all shapes can<br />

be applied to suit your<br />

preference upon order.<br />

Construction: Glassing<br />

lightweight to strong with<br />

optional carbon stripes<br />

on tail for added strength.<br />

Epoxy models also<br />

available on custom order.<br />

Fins: Fixed or your choice<br />

of removable system. Also<br />

available as quad or 5-fin.<br />

Shaper comment: The<br />

Burrito is small, fast and<br />

loose. It can take you<br />

anywhere on the wave<br />

you want to go. Best<br />

suited for small punchy<br />

waves. Ride this board 3<br />

to 4 inches shorter than<br />

your normal board.<br />

OKE SURFBOARDS<br />

1/1-7 Canterbury Rd,<br />

Braeside, VIC, 3195<br />

Ph: 03 9587 3553<br />

okesurfboards.com<br />

OKE SURFBOARDS<br />

1/1-7 Canterbury Rd,<br />

Braeside, VIC, 3195<br />

Ph: 03 9587 3553<br />

okesurfboards.com<br />

DIVISION SURFBOARDS<br />

Corner of Bungan &<br />

Waratah Sts<br />

Mona vale, NSW<br />

Ph: 02 9979 5334<br />

www.divisionsurf.com.au<br />

facebook.com/divisionsurf<br />

DIVISION SURFBOARDS<br />

Corner of Bungan &<br />

Waratah Sts<br />

Mona vale, NSW<br />

Ph: 02 9979 5334<br />

www.divisionsurf.com.au<br />

facebook.com/divisionsurf<br />

DIVISION SURFBOARDS<br />

Corner of Bungan &<br />

Waratah Sts<br />

Mona vale, NSW<br />

Ph: 02 9979 5334<br />

www.divisionsurf.com.au<br />

facebook.com/divisionsurf<br />

156 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


GEAR: BOARDS<br />

SHAPER’S PROMOTION<br />

MORNING STAR<br />

THE MXN<br />

LITTLE RIP STICK<br />

MICRO GROM<br />

FORD ARCHBOLD<br />

Shaper: Brett Warner<br />

Dimensions:<br />

5’8” x 20” x 2 7 / 16”<br />

Ideal conditions:<br />

Ideal for small surf, excels<br />

in point breaks.<br />

Suits: Anyone<br />

Description:<br />

Diamond tail-quad finner.<br />

Construction: PU Dion<br />

foam. 4oz bottom, 6 + 4oz<br />

bottom gloss and polish.<br />

Fins: Quad<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Available through Warner<br />

Surfboards<br />

Shaper: Brett Warner<br />

Dimensions:<br />

5’10” x 19 ½” x 2 7 / 16”<br />

Ideal conditions:<br />

Perfect for 1-3 ft beachies<br />

Suits: Anyone<br />

Description:<br />

The MXN is a small wave<br />

board,we have used the<br />

same DNA as the Bandit<br />

but with a pulled-in round<br />

tail with more curve in<br />

the back half of the board<br />

which makes it perform<br />

well in the pocket of the<br />

wave. Rocker is still fairly<br />

low and with the single<br />

to double concave makes<br />

it fast.<br />

Construction:<br />

PU or Epoxy. M.I.A - Made<br />

in Australia.<br />

Fins: FCS or FUTURE,<br />

thruster or quad or both.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Ride this board 4-5<br />

inches shorter than your<br />

performance short board.<br />

Shaper: Blake Peters<br />

Ideal: 1-4ft<br />

Ability: Intermediate to<br />

advanced<br />

Suits: Anyone wanting<br />

a high performance<br />

shortboard for smaller<br />

waves.<br />

Description: This is<br />

a high performance<br />

shortboard made<br />

for small waves. It’s<br />

designed to be ridden<br />

2” shorter and ¼” wider<br />

than your standard<br />

shortboard. It features<br />

a low entry rocker for<br />

speed off the take off, a<br />

single to double concave<br />

with vee behind the<br />

fin for good rail-to-rail<br />

transition in small slop.<br />

Fins: Thruster setup<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

This is an awesome<br />

shortboard for Sydney’s<br />

beach breaks and has<br />

become our number 1<br />

selling shortboard.<br />

Shaper: Blake Peters<br />

Ideal: Small to medium<br />

everyday waves<br />

Ability: Beginner to<br />

advanced<br />

Suits: Kids up to 55kg.<br />

Description: This is<br />

an all-round shortboard<br />

designed specifically for<br />

the groms under 55kg.<br />

The board has a low<br />

entry rocker for easy<br />

paddling and building<br />

speed quickly, a single to<br />

double concave with vee<br />

behind the back fin for<br />

easy turning and it comes<br />

in a rounded square tail or<br />

round tail.<br />

Fins: Thruster<br />

Shaper comment: This<br />

is the perfect board for<br />

any grom, whether they<br />

are just learning or if they<br />

are at a high level.<br />

Shaper: Blake Peters<br />

Ideal: Anything from 1-4ft<br />

Ability: Beginner to<br />

advanced<br />

Suits: Anyone wanting a<br />

short, fat, fun board that<br />

they can rip on through<br />

the summer months.<br />

Description: This Ford<br />

Archbold Signature Model<br />

features a full flat deck<br />

with beveled rails and<br />

beak nose. Really deep<br />

single throughout for<br />

speed and a nice little<br />

flyer behind the fins for<br />

release. It also comes<br />

with this cool resin tint.<br />

Fins: Thruster setup<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Designed for the crew<br />

that are riding these<br />

short, fat boards every<br />

day. It’s short, fat and fun<br />

but you can still tear it<br />

apart like a short board.<br />

This board is super fast<br />

and has spring out of<br />

turns. The flat deck also<br />

gives it a really stable,<br />

forgiving feeling, making<br />

it very comfortable.<br />

c/o WARNER SURFBOARDS<br />

236 Harbord Rd,<br />

Brookvale NSW 2100<br />

Ph: 02 9907 1239<br />

warnersurfboards.com<br />

morningstarsurfboards.com<br />

WARNER SURFBOARDS<br />

236 Harbord Rd,<br />

Brookvale NSW 2100<br />

Ph: 02 9907 1239<br />

warnersurfboards.com<br />

PANDA SURFBOARDS<br />

4/17 Barrenjoey Rd,<br />

Mona Vale NSW<br />

Ph: 0427 797 910<br />

E: blake@pandasurfboards.com<br />

pandasurfboards.com<br />

PANDA SURFBOARDS<br />

4/17 Barrenjoey Rd,<br />

Mona Vale NSW<br />

Ph: 0427 797 910<br />

E: blake@pandasurfboards.com<br />

pandasurfboards.com<br />

PANDA SURFBOARDS<br />

4/17 Barrenjoey Rd,<br />

Mona Vale NSW<br />

Ph: 0427 797 910<br />

E: blake@pandasurfboards.com<br />

pandasurfboards.com<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

157


A tasty timber sandwich. PHOTOS: Supplied<br />

FANCY A SANDWICH?<br />

WE SPEAK WITH JOSH DOWLING OF JOSH DOWLING SHAPES ABOUT HIS BOARD CONSTRUCTION METHODS. WORDS: DAVE SWAN<br />

Incredibly cool sprays, near indestructible<br />

boards and by all reports a really good bloke<br />

to deal with, but apparently Josh Dowling<br />

builds his boards arse about face?<br />

“Yep, they way I build boards nowadays is<br />

completely arse about. You have to throw out<br />

everything you know about normal board building.<br />

“I start out with a flat block of super lightweight EPS<br />

foam instead of a blank. And unlike a blank, there is<br />

no rocker established in the plug. I actually create<br />

rocker by building the board in layers, bending and<br />

gluing each one in much the same way as how<br />

skateboards are constructed.”<br />

158 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

UNIQUE CONSTRUCTION<br />

“On the top and bottom of a super lightweight,<br />

‘bouncy’ EPS core there is a 3mm layer of either<br />

timber or very hard high-density foam - which is a<br />

different chemical structure altogether to normal PU<br />

and is very durable. This ‘outer shell’ has fiberglass<br />

on both sides, as opposed to just on the outer as<br />

with other composite board construction.<br />

“The reason I fibreglass both sides of the ‘outer<br />

shell’ is because I believe with EPS you need more<br />

glass. It is much the same as a zigzag steel truss as<br />

opposed to a solid wood rafter. You are removing<br />

the material in between and reducing the weight<br />

but not the strength. The top and bottom truss are<br />

separated by the lightest possible material and this<br />

EPS core, which is holding the deck and the bottom<br />

apart, has some give in it and flexes as opposed to a<br />

more solid construction without sacrificing strength.<br />

“In the lamination process I use epoxy resin as<br />

opposed to polyester. It has a different molecular<br />

structure and in my opinion is more resistant to<br />

fatigue plus the boards stay fresh and crispy longer.”<br />

What differentiates your sandwich<br />

construction from other methods?<br />

“It is similar to Surftech’s Tuflite technology, but as<br />

opposed to being a moulded clone of an existing<br />

shape, my boards are custom made to suit the<br />

individual. Therefore you have an individually<br />

tailor-made surfboard that is still extremely<br />

durable. Further to this, I hand-laminate my boards<br />

which makes them less rigid than other sandwich<br />

construction methods.”<br />

How do they differ to boards in general?<br />

“They are the same weight as a standard board but<br />

much stronger. All surfboards flex. PU boards flex<br />

and bend. With sandwich technology and wood on<br />

the rails, as opposed to in the middle like a vertical<br />

stringer, the board loads up the wave’s energy and it<br />

flicks back to give you forward projection out of turns<br />

rather than twisting on the stringer axis where it<br />

loses energy. My boards are springy, not spongy.<br />

“I was very skeptical initially because of the<br />

work that goes into a board of this kind but the<br />

performance is unbelievable. I found myself having<br />

to pre-empt what I would do next on a wave<br />

because of the speed it generates.”<br />

How did you come to build boards this way?<br />

“I have been shaping since I was 13. I have worked<br />

under a myriad of shapers at various levels of the<br />

production process including Greg Brown, Paul<br />

Hutchison, Gunther Rohn, Tony Cerff, Wayne Roach<br />

and Nev Hyman to name a few.”<br />

Josh, who has been shaping for some 27 years, first<br />

dabbled with composite construction in 2004 after<br />

his growing frustration with what he perceived to be<br />

‘the fragility of conventional boards’.<br />

“It has been a long road to perfecting the method.<br />

I got a bit of exposure with regards to my approach<br />

and was invited to work with Firewire. During my<br />

stint I crafted boards for the world’s top 16 pro<br />

surfers. After 18 months in Thailand with Firewire, I<br />

returned home and went and did my own thing.<br />

“I came full circle because I believe in the intensity<br />

of one-on-one interaction with customers and<br />

tailor-making a board specifically designed for them,<br />

albeit with the latest technology available.”<br />

FIND OUT MORE<br />

See Josh’s work and also his fantastic airbrushing<br />

skills online www.joshdowlingshape.com


GEAR: BOARDS<br />

SHAPER’S PROMOTION<br />

EVEL-KNIEVEL<br />

THE RPM<br />

SINGLE FIN<br />

8’ LONGBOARD SMOKIN’BEAN<br />

Shaper: Josh Dowling<br />

Specs: 6’9” x 22” x 2 ¾”<br />

Bump diamond tail<br />

Ideal: Allround, 2-6ft<br />

Description: Evel Knievel<br />

constantly pushed the<br />

envelope and died age 69...<br />

Inspiration for this design,<br />

intended for the older guy<br />

who is a bit busted up, but<br />

still has mind to rip!<br />

Construction: Vac-bagged<br />

EPS/Epoxy/Divynicell/<br />

Timber composite with<br />

Innegra stomp patches.<br />

Parabolic Balsa rails.<br />

Your preference in glass<br />

weights.<br />

Fins: Quad/thruster.<br />

Your choice of fin model.<br />

Shaper comment: Wide<br />

and flat is stable and fast,<br />

but hip and tail keep the<br />

turn radius tight. Options<br />

of custom airbrush, or<br />

upcoming range of JD<br />

digital print designs. 100%<br />

Australian handcrafted<br />

composite surfboards.<br />

Shaper: Josh Dowling<br />

Specs: 6’0” x 19 ¼” x 2 3 /8”<br />

Ideal: 3-5ft hollow.<br />

Description: Single to<br />

double concave through<br />

to vee. A little width for<br />

speed but with swallow for<br />

drive and hold. Lightweight<br />

and edgy - gives Instant<br />

response for beating<br />

sections. The quad option<br />

so it’ll whip high and tight<br />

in the pocket.<br />

Construction: Vac-bagged<br />

EPS/Epoxy/Divynicell/<br />

Timber composite with<br />

Innegra stomp patches.<br />

Parabolic Balsa rails. Glass<br />

weight tuned to suit the<br />

customer and wave types.<br />

Fins: Quad/thruster.<br />

Your choice of fin model.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Shifted to composites in<br />

2005 and never looked<br />

back. Timber is all<br />

functional - bend it and<br />

it flicks back, creating<br />

drive. Composite allows<br />

for a pro-weight board<br />

that outlasts 6oz. 100%<br />

Australian handcrafted<br />

composite surfboards.<br />

Shaper: Mark Rabbidge<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’2” x 20” x 2 ¾”<br />

single flyer single fin<br />

Ideal: All conditions,<br />

small to mid range<br />

Ability: All surfers who<br />

want to have fun<br />

Description: Modern<br />

version of old standard.<br />

Basically, find an old<br />

good one, ride it and then<br />

improve it.<br />

Construction: Fantastic<br />

polyester<br />

Fins: One glass-on or box<br />

Shaper comment: These<br />

boards are not novelty<br />

designs - they surf in an<br />

all round modern way<br />

without the hang-ups of<br />

old 70’s technology.<br />

Shaper: Mark Rabbidge<br />

Dimensions:<br />

8’ x 21” x 2 ¾”<br />

Suits: Custom tailored to<br />

suit the individual<br />

Description: Double<br />

ender well balanced<br />

board. Trim concave<br />

through middle, roll vee<br />

through the tail.<br />

Construction: Dion foam<br />

blanks. I’ve been dealing<br />

with them for 45 years<br />

and for good reason.<br />

Fins: 3 fin set up.<br />

Shaper comment: I<br />

have been making this<br />

board since the 80’s. It’s<br />

like a shortboard you can<br />

noseride.<br />

Shaper: James Ellis -<br />

OSX - APS3000<br />

Specs: 5’11” x 22 1 / 8” x 3 1 / 16”<br />

Ideal: 1-4 ft, all types<br />

of surf.<br />

Suits: At this width and<br />

thickness, guys and girls<br />

90kg+. Custom available<br />

Description: Flat, super<br />

fast and resembles a black<br />

jellybean. Tiny amount of<br />

reverse V. Sharp rounded<br />

tail, fishy nose, beautiful<br />

full rails for excellent hold.<br />

Construction: High-end. 200<br />

GSM Cert. Japanese TORAY<br />

Twill Weave Carbon fibre,<br />

SCB PU foam, epoxy resin<br />

and acrylic epoxy gloss coats.<br />

Fins: Shapers plugs (5mm<br />

forward and back travel)<br />

with DVS (Dick Van Straalen)<br />

carbon fibre/composite fins<br />

from Shapers<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Catches waves as easy as<br />

a mal. Turns like a shorty.<br />

Carbon construction gives<br />

this board a rocketing<br />

parabolic rail effect. A<br />

team effort between<br />

Distribution, D.D.S.A.<br />

CREATIVE, Pete from OES.<br />

JOSH DOWLING SHAPE<br />

430 Barwon Heads Rd,<br />

Marshall VIC 3216<br />

Ph: 0413 211 020<br />

joshdowlingshape@yahoo.com<br />

joshdowlingshape.com<br />

JOSH DOWLING SHAPE<br />

430 Barwon Heads Rd,<br />

Marshall VIC 3216<br />

Ph: 0413 211 020<br />

joshdowlingshape@yahoo.com<br />

joshdowlingshape.com<br />

RABBIDGE SURF DESIGN<br />

Ph: 02 4456 4038<br />

Mobile: 0427 767 176<br />

Bendalong, NSW 2539<br />

www.markrabbidge.com<br />

RABBIDGE SURF DESIGN<br />

Ph: 02 4456 4038<br />

Mobile: 0427 767 176<br />

Bendalong, NSW 2539<br />

www.markrabbidge.com<br />

DISTRIBUTION SURFBOARDS<br />

Ph: 0410 175 552<br />

PO BOX 633 Willunga<br />

SA 5172<br />

james@ljdistribution.com.au<br />

Available through<br />

interested surf stores<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

159


THE HOT RAT<br />

THE FLYER<br />

THE i-FISH<br />

THE KPS<br />

SAWN OFF<br />

Shaper: Dino Tziolis<br />

Dimensions:<br />

5’10” x 18” x 2 ¼”<br />

A rounded square single<br />

concave.<br />

Ideal: All conditions -<br />

beach breaks to points 2-5ft<br />

Suits: Beginner to<br />

advanced.<br />

Description: The<br />

ultimate high performance<br />

shorty. Super fast, super<br />

responsive. Ideal for the up<br />

and coming contest surfer.<br />

Construction:<br />

PU Core, inlays digital<br />

print, 4 x 4 x 4 glassing.<br />

Fins: Future fins or FCS<br />

fusion.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Custom made on the Gold<br />

Coast – great for young<br />

hot rats.<br />

Shaper: Dino Tziolis<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’2” x 19 ½” x 2 ½”<br />

Single into double concave,<br />

swallowtail.<br />

Ideal: 1-6ft beach breaks,<br />

points or reef breaks.<br />

Suits: Young and old<br />

surfers, made to suit all.<br />

Description: A little<br />

wider, a little thicker, great<br />

for the working surfer.<br />

Paddles well – maximum<br />

turning ability – its<br />

concave is designed to<br />

create more speed.<br />

Construction: PU Core,<br />

inlays digital print, 4 x 4 x 4<br />

glassing. Custom-made to<br />

suit the individual.<br />

Fins: FCS Fusion or Future<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Top quality blanks and<br />

glassing, Call to discuss<br />

your custom.<br />

Shaper:<br />

Terry “Snake” Bishop<br />

Dimensions:<br />

5’8” x 20” x 2 ¼”<br />

Ideal conditions:<br />

Smaller, fatter days<br />

Suits: Anyone<br />

Description: Designed<br />

to catch waves on the<br />

smaller days, it’s wider<br />

in the nose with a pulled<br />

in fish tail to increase<br />

agility. This board is lively<br />

and maintains a high<br />

level of performance.<br />

Single to double concave<br />

for speed and with a<br />

straighter profile the iFish<br />

is friendly to all levels of<br />

surfer.<br />

Construction: Standard<br />

PU construction. 2 x 4oz<br />

deck, 1 x 4oz bottom.<br />

Fins: FCS K2.1 are best.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Can be ridden 4-6”<br />

shorter than your normal<br />

board and also work very<br />

well as a quad.<br />

Shaper:<br />

Terry “Snake” Bishop<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’4 x 19 5 /8”x 2 3 /8”<br />

Ideal conditions: 1-6ft<br />

Suits: The surfer pushing<br />

80 -100kg.<br />

Ability: Anyone. This board<br />

will improve your surfing.<br />

Description: Made for<br />

the for bigger guys who<br />

still want to ride shorter<br />

boards. It’s wider than<br />

your normal board and<br />

from 2 ¼” to 2 ½” thick.<br />

Deep single to double<br />

concave gives great speed<br />

and agility. Generous<br />

rocker in both ends allows<br />

this board to perform tight<br />

in the pocket.<br />

Construction: Standard<br />

PU construction. 2 x 4oz<br />

deck, 1 x 4oz bottom.<br />

Fins: FCS PC7 make it fly.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

This board is one of the<br />

best outlines I’ve seen<br />

and everyone who’s got<br />

one says the same thing<br />

- OUTSTANDING. It’s fast,<br />

loose and light and it<br />

works best on it’s rail.<br />

Shaper: Tully St. John<br />

Dimensions:<br />

To suit customer<br />

Ideal conditions: 2-6ft<br />

Ability: Intermediate to<br />

professional<br />

Suits: Over 95 kgs<br />

Description:<br />

Performance small to<br />

medium wave board.<br />

Construction:<br />

PU or Epoxy<br />

Fin set-up: Thruster or<br />

quad option<br />

Shaper comment: This<br />

is a great design. It is<br />

slightly wider and shorter<br />

than the Allrounder. Deep<br />

single concave with a<br />

double imbedded in tail<br />

section, slightly less<br />

rocker and fast loose<br />

plan shape. Good in the<br />

air and will still drive<br />

through turns on rail.<br />

INTRUDER SURFBOARDS<br />

Ph: 0409 727 735<br />

Unit 7, 37 Hillcrest Pde,<br />

MIAMI, QLD 4220<br />

E: dinosdings@gmail.com<br />

www.mcsurf.com.au<br />

INTRUDER SURFBOARDS<br />

Ph: 0409 727 735<br />

Unit 7, 37 Hillcrest Pde,<br />

MIAMI, QLD 4220<br />

E: dinosdings@gmail.com<br />

www.mcsurf.com.au<br />

CARABINE SURFBOARDS<br />

36 Finders Street<br />

Wollongong, NSW<br />

Ph/Fax: 02 4229 9462<br />

carabinesurfboards.com.au<br />

CARABINE SURFBOARDS<br />

36 Finders Street<br />

Wollongong, NSW<br />

Ph/Fax: 02 4229 9462<br />

carabinesurfboards.com.au<br />

NOOSA SURFWORKS<br />

11 Bartlett St,<br />

Noosaville QLD<br />

Ph: 07 5474 4567<br />

E: info@noosasurfworks.com.au<br />

noosasurfworks.com.au<br />

160 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


GEAR: BOARDS<br />

SHAPER’S PROMOTION<br />

THE<br />

LITTLE GENERAL<br />

THE WILD ONE<br />

THE STUBBIE<br />

THE ISLANDER<br />

FLIP TAIL LOG<br />

Shaper: Lee Cheyne<br />

Dimensions:<br />

5’7” x 19 ¼” x 2 3 /8”<br />

Ideal: Small beachies<br />

Ability level:<br />

Beginner to advanced<br />

Suits: Anyone looking to<br />

have the most fun in small<br />

waves.<br />

Description: Flat and<br />

wide with lots of concave.<br />

Medium boxy rails with a<br />

hip rounded square tail.<br />

Construction: Burford<br />

foam, Surf 9 4oz glass and<br />

Silmar resin.<br />

Fins: FCS or Futures<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

A nice fast board with lots<br />

of volume great for the<br />

summer slop!<br />

Shaper: Lee Cheyne<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’2” x 19 1 /8” x 2 7 /16”<br />

Ideal: 2-6ft<br />

Ability level: All<br />

Suits: Custom for Craig,<br />

for Sunny Coast waves.<br />

Description: Dean Brady’s<br />

rocker of choice for his<br />

normal shorties. Medium<br />

rocker with nice deep<br />

single into double concave<br />

with a low boxy rail.<br />

Construction: Burford<br />

foam, Surf 9 4oz glass and<br />

Silmar resin.<br />

Fins: FCS or Futures<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

This board has a really<br />

nice blend of curves and<br />

looks and goes amazing.<br />

Shaper: Michael Cundith<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’ x 21 ½” x 2 ¾” or<br />

custom made to any size<br />

Ideal: Small to medium surf<br />

Suits: All types of surfer<br />

Description: A remake of<br />

my 1960’s model with an<br />

updated bottom shape and<br />

rocker, with slight concave<br />

chines and bottom to tail<br />

pod vee. Great for paddling<br />

into waves, fantastic for<br />

late take-offs as it’s wide<br />

and stable, and accelerates<br />

instantly. You can actually<br />

feel it rise up on top of the<br />

water. 5-fin setup works<br />

perfectly for the wide tail.<br />

It holds in, is still loose and<br />

has heaps of drive with<br />

amazing trim speed. It can<br />

be made to any size.<br />

Construction:<br />

Strong and not too heavy<br />

Fins: Single or twin keel,<br />

3 ,4 and 5<br />

Shaper comment: This<br />

board is a winner - we<br />

are getting heaps of<br />

favorable feedback.<br />

Shaper: Michael Cundith<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’6” x 20 ½” x 2 ½” up<br />

to 7’6” x 22” x 3” or any<br />

custom size<br />

Ideal: Small to big surf to<br />

strong indo waves<br />

Suits: Young and old<br />

surfers, made to suit all<br />

Description: This new<br />

model designed and<br />

sculpted by MC has a<br />

narrower tail than our Fish.<br />

Slight single to double<br />

concave, wide point in<br />

front of centre<br />

Construction: Standard ,<br />

strong, not too heavy and<br />

very durable<br />

Fins: Thruster, quad, 5-fin<br />

or even single fin<br />

Shaper comment: Great<br />

paddler. Fast and loose.<br />

Indo reports are unreal<br />

and local comments great.<br />

The Islander suits all<br />

surfers. This rocket holds<br />

in so well and is fast and<br />

manoeuverable. Stoked.<br />

Shaper: Nigel Perrow<br />

Dimensions:<br />

To suit customer<br />

Ideal conditions:<br />

Small to medium size surf<br />

Ability: Intermediate to<br />

professional<br />

Suits: Over 95 kgs<br />

Description: This is<br />

the ultimate noseriding<br />

machine. Its fuller<br />

outline, 50/50 rail<br />

configuration and tail<br />

flip make it oh so easy<br />

to noseride. It’s ridden<br />

by pros from all over<br />

the world for specialty<br />

noseriding events.<br />

Construction:<br />

PU or Epoxy<br />

Fin set-up: Big single<br />

fixed or box<br />

Shaper comment: If you<br />

are looking to improve<br />

your noseriding and<br />

logging skills this is the<br />

board for you.<br />

LEE CHEYNE DESIGNS<br />

19/48 Machinery Dr,<br />

Tweed Heads South<br />

NSW 2486<br />

Ph: 07 5523 3237<br />

lcdboards@gmail.com<br />

myspace.com/454626994<br />

tradewindsurf.com.au<br />

www.facebook.com/<br />

people/Lee-Cheyne-<br />

Surfboards/1620685674<br />

LEE CHEYNE DESIGNS<br />

19/48 Machinery Dr,<br />

Tweed Heads South<br />

NSW 2486<br />

Ph: 07 5523 3237<br />

lcdboards@gmail.com<br />

myspace.com/454626994<br />

tradewindsurf.com.au<br />

www.facebook.com/<br />

people/Lee-Cheyne-<br />

Surfboards/1620685674<br />

MICHAEL CUNDITH<br />

SURF DESIGNS<br />

Ph: 02 6685 8778<br />

3 Banksia Dve,<br />

Byron Bay Industrial Estate<br />

BYRON BAY NSW 2481<br />

E: info@mcsurf.com.au<br />

www.mcsurf.com.au<br />

MICHAEL CUNDITH<br />

SURF DESIGNS<br />

Ph: 02 6685 8778<br />

3 Banksia Dve,<br />

Byron Bay Industrial Estate<br />

BYRON BAY NSW 2481<br />

E: info@mcsurf.com.au<br />

www.mcsurf.com.au<br />

NOOSA SURFWORKS<br />

11 Bartlett St,<br />

Noosaville QLD<br />

Ph: 07 5474 4567<br />

E: info@noosasurfworks.com.au<br />

noosasurfworks.com.au<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

161


WORLDLY<br />

KNOWLEDGE,<br />

LOCAL<br />

INSIGHT<br />

LEIGHTON CLARK OF CLARK SURFBOARDS<br />

EXPLAINS THE THINKING AND PHILOSOPHY<br />

BEHIND HIS SURFBOARD BUILDING<br />

LEIGHTON CLARK Clark Surfboards BORN Wales INFLUENCES Surfing and skating<br />

FIRST BOARD SHAPED In my dad’s garage at 14 SHAPED FOR Lipstix, Cutloose & Powerplug<br />

“A LITTLE BIT MORE FOAM IN YOUR<br />

BOARD WILL GREATLY ENHANCE YOUR<br />

PERFORMANCE IN THE WATER.“<br />

Leighton is a shaper who is always keeping an eye on<br />

what’s happening in board design and construction around<br />

the world and talking to major material suppliers and<br />

international surfboard companies. His designs involve<br />

utilising what he know works in high performance boards<br />

worldwide and blending them with what works locally.<br />

“As a shaper I want to work with the customer and<br />

develop a relationship where I can take my years of<br />

knowledge and experience to ‘almost evolve’ a board<br />

specific to what the customer wants. My aim is to create<br />

a surfboard that will enhance their surfing experience.<br />

A surfboard tailor made to suit that individual and suit<br />

local conditions, this is something only a local shaper can<br />

provide for SA surfers. I like to call it the ‘Adelaide factor’.<br />

“There is a stark difference in your average beach breaks<br />

around the world and the waves we surf every day in<br />

Adelaide or Victor Harbor. Unless you’re a stand out<br />

in the water, a little bit more foam in your board will<br />

greatly enhance your performance in the water. You’ll<br />

catch more waves, enjoy your surfing a lot more, after<br />

all, that’s why we surf… fun and enjoyment. Playing<br />

around with a bit more volume and area helps make your<br />

board more forgiving on the ‘mid’ or Middleton, and will<br />

still perform fine when ‘that’ swell arrives.<br />

“Some of the most influential individuals and up and<br />

coming shapers in the world market are originally from<br />

Adelaide. I’d like to think that the ‘Adelaide factor’<br />

makes a shaper super perceptive in understanding what<br />

a surfer needs.<br />

“Personally, I love bringing back the art of custom<br />

surfcraft… tinted glass, gloss, timber veneer, digital<br />

artwork. One fin, two, three, four, five! 6’ x 18 3 / 8” or 6’ x<br />

22 ¼”. Different body dimensions, fitness, skill and injuries<br />

all contribute to differing needs in a custom shape.<br />

Clark Surfboards have also developed some new<br />

and interesting construction methods in their pursuit of<br />

performance and durability.<br />

“This can be as simple as reinforcing a particular section<br />

of your standard PU board by reinforcing the glass in<br />

susceptible areas through to exotic extruded polystyrene,<br />

high density blanks glassed in the best UV resistant<br />

epoxy resins, carbon fibre or Kevlar fabrics and vacuum<br />

bagging techniques. The opportunities are endless.”<br />

162 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


GEAR: BOARDS<br />

SHAPER’S PROMOTION<br />

PINK SPRAY<br />

DRAFT<br />

THE JETT<br />

CAFE TWINNIE<br />

THE FLYER<br />

Shaper: Leighton Clark<br />

Specs: 7’6”x 20 ¾” x 2 5 /8”<br />

Ideal conditions: Great<br />

board to get out at your<br />

local...and rips on small<br />

average surf<br />

Suits: All family<br />

members... girlfriend...<br />

summer fun... beginners...<br />

lazy bastards... (sprays<br />

suits girls or retro seekers)<br />

Construction: This board<br />

is made from premium<br />

materials. Burford PU foam,<br />

Silmar resins, Aerialite<br />

glass. We can do custom<br />

artwork or digital graphics.<br />

Fins: Shapers fins & plugs.<br />

Sprays: No problemo.<br />

Customs, Pics, flowers,<br />

digital graphics, anything..<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

WE LISTEN, WE TALK<br />

and WE CREATE a<br />

board to suit your<br />

requirements. Customs<br />

are our speciality. Love<br />

to hear about what you<br />

are riding, and what you<br />

want to ride.<br />

Shaper: Leighton Clark<br />

Specs: 7’6”x 21 ¾”x 2 ¾”<br />

Ideal conditions: Great<br />

board to get out at your<br />

local...and rips on small<br />

average surf<br />

Suits: All family<br />

members... girlfriend...<br />

summer fun... beginners...<br />

lazy bastards...<br />

Construction: Made<br />

from premium materials.<br />

Burford PU foam, Silmar<br />

resins, Aerialite glass, ....<br />

also available in XPS, EPS,<br />

and epoxy laminates. Our<br />

glassing guy, Mick, is one<br />

of the most experienced<br />

in the industry - clocking<br />

over 25,000 boards over 40<br />

years. We can do custom<br />

artwork or digital graphics.<br />

Fins: Shapers fins and<br />

plugs.<br />

Sprays: No problemo.<br />

Customs, Pics, flowers,<br />

digital graphics, anything..<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

WE LISTEN, WE TALK<br />

and WE CREATE a<br />

board to suit your<br />

requirements. Customs<br />

are our speciality. Love<br />

to hear about what you<br />

are riding, and what you<br />

want to ride.<br />

Shaper: Scott Newman<br />

Specs: 5’7”x 19” x 2 3 / 16’’<br />

Ideal conditions: Beach<br />

beaks, small to 4ft waves.<br />

Suits: Intermediate to<br />

advanced.<br />

Description: The Jett<br />

has a low entry and tail<br />

rocker, making it a good<br />

all-rounder through the<br />

summer. It features a round<br />

tail and single concave and<br />

this board is FAST.<br />

Construction: Foam and<br />

fibreglass.<br />

Fins: 5 way fin setup been<br />

most popular. It goes sick<br />

as a quad and thruster.<br />

Shaper comment: A<br />

high-performance fish<br />

and has been our most<br />

popular model so far. All<br />

the feedback we get is<br />

everyone is loving it. Goes<br />

so fast down the line. All<br />

the boys that love to boost<br />

- THIS IS THE ONE. Ride<br />

this board 4-5’’ shorter,<br />

1/4’’wider and an 1/8’’<br />

thinner then your standed<br />

shortboard.<br />

Shaper: Scott Newman<br />

Specs: 5’8’’x 21’½’’x 2’ 5 / 8’’<br />

Ideal: Summer time.<br />

Suits: Open minded surfers<br />

Description: Small to<br />

medium wave board.<br />

Super fun and fast, runs a<br />

rolled bottom to a rolled<br />

v with twin hand foiled<br />

keel fins, a low rocker for<br />

easy paddling and just a<br />

fun board to ride when the<br />

sun’s out.<br />

Construction:<br />

Foam and fibreglass with<br />

resin tint and full polish<br />

Fins: Timber or glass keel<br />

fins, stick-on or future<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Get one for summer - you<br />

wont be let down.<br />

Shaper: Steve Barber<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’4” x 19 ¾” x 2 3 /8“<br />

Ideal conditions:<br />

Excellent everyday board<br />

Suits: Anyone<br />

Description: Flattish entry<br />

for easy paddling, single<br />

into double concave with<br />

tail vee on larger versions.<br />

Double flyers in planshape<br />

give greater tail width<br />

for drive thru turns in any<br />

conditions with better hold<br />

in larger waves as a bonus.<br />

Construction: Polyurethane<br />

Fins: Thruster or Quad.<br />

(Quad is best as 4 channel)<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

This is a rare all round<br />

board design. Great in<br />

ordinary surf through<br />

to pumping South<br />

Straddie or Snapper.<br />

Fast, manoeuverable,<br />

easy to surf, yet highperformance<br />

as well and<br />

forgiving when you’re<br />

having a bad day!<br />

CLARK SURFBOARDS<br />

20 Cottage Road,<br />

Hackham SA<br />

E: leightonclark01@yahoo.com.au<br />

M: 0422 443 789<br />

Available at<br />

www.onboardsurf.com.au<br />

CLARK SURFBOARDS<br />

20 Cottage Road,<br />

Hackham SA<br />

E: leightonclark01@yahoo.com.au<br />

M: 0422 443 789<br />

Available at<br />

www.onboardsurf.com.au<br />

SLS SURFBOARDS<br />

2/57 George St,<br />

Moffat Beach, QLD 4551<br />

Ph: Scott 0424 314 183<br />

slssurfboards.com.au<br />

SLS SURFBOARDS<br />

2/57 George St,<br />

Moffat Beach, QLD 4551<br />

Ph: Scott 0424 314 183<br />

slssurfboards.com.au<br />

STEVE BARBER/FULL FORCE<br />

18/48 Machinery Drive<br />

Tweed Heads South<br />

Ph: 07 5524 2933<br />

fullforcesurf@hotmail.com<br />

Join us on Facebook<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

163


Dee big wooden fin,<br />

handmade especially<br />

for the Log<br />

OLD SCHOOL LOG PP ALL-ROUNDER DRUMSTICK<br />

AREA ROUNDED PIN<br />

“Oh Huey, let thee<br />

part the waters, for<br />

I am Geoff...”<br />

Shaper: Geoff Barden<br />

Dimensions: 9’10”<br />

Come in and see<br />

Ideal conditions: Clean<br />

cruisy waves<br />

Suits: The midlife crisis<br />

Ability level:<br />

Remember... Midlife crisis<br />

Description: We racked<br />

our brains trying to put<br />

together a spiel, but hey...<br />

It’s an old-school log. It’s<br />

big. Its heavy. But it’s<br />

gooooood.<br />

Construction: This board<br />

has a 9mm stringer, 3 x<br />

6oz on deck, 2 x 6oz on<br />

bottom with a 6oz tail<br />

patch and resin tint.<br />

Fins: This one has an 8”<br />

custom cedar/balsa ‘D’fin.<br />

Custom glass, timber<br />

glassed-on or box.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

All custom orders welcome<br />

- we don’t discriminate. It<br />

can have cream bun hips,<br />

or nice, smooth Hawaiian<br />

lines. I’m hooked on riding<br />

them and making them.<br />

Shaper: Phil Pepper<br />

Specs: 9’2” x 22 ¾” x 2 7 / 8”<br />

Ideal conditions: All<br />

conditions that suit a mal.<br />

Suits: Everyone<br />

Description: A modern<br />

mal inspired by traditional<br />

shape, great all-rounder<br />

for all standards. You<br />

chose the rails and tail to<br />

your performance - the<br />

beauty of custom shapes.<br />

Construction: Polyster.<br />

Standard glassing. Protec<br />

or gloss and buff finish<br />

Fins: 10” Box, FCS side<br />

or not.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

A modern board with<br />

traditional feel you can’t go<br />

wrong. Call for a custom.<br />

Shaper: Chad Ryan<br />

Dimensions:<br />

5’7” x 19 7 / 8” x 2 5 / 16”<br />

Ideal conditions: 1 - 6ft.<br />

Ability level: Intermediate<br />

to advanced<br />

Description:<br />

With demand for shorter<br />

and wider boards, the<br />

Drumstick was born. 5-fin<br />

setup to give options for<br />

all conditions. Best used<br />

as a quad to ensure full<br />

speed is reached from<br />

take off. Fast, loose with<br />

loads of drive and amazing<br />

response.<br />

Construction: Polyester.<br />

Team or standard glassing.<br />

S Glass now available<br />

Fins: 5 x FCS setup for<br />

quad or thruster.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

The ultimate board<br />

designed for progressive<br />

surfing.<br />

Shaper: Dave Parkes<br />

Specs: 5’10” x 23 ½”x 2 5 /8”<br />

Ideal: All rounder but<br />

likes a bit of a pocket and<br />

hollower sections<br />

Suits: Above dimensions<br />

are for a +/-80kg surfer<br />

in all types of surf. Can<br />

be souped up and refined<br />

for those who want to<br />

give it a bit of a push or<br />

mellowed out for more<br />

margin of error and<br />

cruisers<br />

Description: Over the<br />

years this shape has<br />

turned into a classic<br />

staple. Tried and proven.<br />

Construction: Glassed<br />

with 6oz, midweight<br />

Surfblanks foam.<br />

Fins: Tri Fin. Big sides<br />

(like a twin) with a smaller<br />

stabiliser, or a large<br />

thruster template side<br />

fin and smaller thruster<br />

template centre fin.<br />

Glassed-ons available.<br />

Shaper comment: As<br />

usual this is only an<br />

example of what can be<br />

done .Customs are the go .<br />

SKIPP SURFBOARDS<br />

FACTORY SHOWROOM<br />

24 Flinders St<br />

North Wollongong, NSW<br />

Ph: 02 4228 8878<br />

SKIPP SURFBOARDS<br />

FACTORY SHOWROOM<br />

24 Flinders St<br />

North Wollongong, NSW<br />

Ph: 02 4228 8878<br />

Friar Tuck<br />

PADDLE TRIBE<br />

Geoff: 04<strong>08</strong> 701 467<br />

Steve: 0421 994 649<br />

E: info@paddletribe.com.au<br />

www.paddletribe.com.au<br />

CITY SURF CENTRE<br />

231 Crown Street<br />

Wollongong City, NSW<br />

Ph: 02 4229 1202<br />

E: factory@skippsurfboards.com.au<br />

skippsurfboards.com.au<br />

CITY SURF CENTRE<br />

231 Crown Street<br />

Wollongong City, NSW<br />

Ph: 02 4229 1202<br />

E: factory@skippsurfboards.com.au<br />

skippsurfboards.com.au<br />

PARKES AUSTRALIA<br />

4/83 Centennial Circuit<br />

Byron Bay, NSW<br />

Ph: 02 6685 6627<br />

E: d-par@bigpond.com<br />

parkesaustralia.com


B Y R O N B A Y . A U S T R A L I A<br />

Float like a<br />

butterfly, sting<br />

like a Bumble<br />

Bee<br />

Kneel brother, kneel.!<br />

GEAR: BOARDS<br />

SHAPER’S PROMOTION<br />

DIAMOND TAIL<br />

Shaper: Dave Parkes<br />

Specs: 5’8” x 23” x 2 ¾”<br />

Ideal: Waves with a nice<br />

wall and room to move<br />

Suits: Anyone who likes<br />

a board that likes to keep<br />

going without being<br />

“pumped” all the time.<br />

Description: The fuller<br />

nose and tail dimensions<br />

means this board can be<br />

surfed shorter without<br />

losing area and planing<br />

ability. Readily accepts 2,<br />

3 or 4-fin setups.<br />

Construction: EPS or PU.<br />

Whatever you want.<br />

Fins: FCS, Futures,<br />

Powerbase or glass-ons.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

The Diamond Tail has<br />

never gone away. As a<br />

kneeboard outline it has<br />

been shaped constantly<br />

since the 70s. Lately I<br />

have been working with<br />

Albert Munoz to achieve<br />

a more performance<br />

orientated version of this<br />

classic shape.<br />

BG SHORTBOARD<br />

Shaper: Greg Hogan<br />

Length: 6’1” - 7’6”<br />

Width: 19 ½” - 21”<br />

Thickness: 2 ½” - 3”<br />

Description: Perfect<br />

for the intermediate,<br />

heavier or older surfer<br />

who still wants to surf<br />

a shortboard. A fuller<br />

outline and more nose<br />

area, combined with<br />

a round tail make this<br />

board very easy to<br />

paddle, yet keeps the<br />

performance feel. Also<br />

perfect for the next step<br />

from your first board!<br />

Construction: Handshaped<br />

PU blank, 6 and<br />

4oz deck, 6 or 4oz bottom.<br />

Fins: FCS or Futures in a<br />

thruster setup.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

I really try to set the<br />

dimensions to suit each<br />

individual rider, but this<br />

extension of my standard<br />

performance shortboard<br />

definitely has the same<br />

feel. It can seem like<br />

you’re riding something<br />

a lot smaller than it<br />

actually is.<br />

BD FISH<br />

Shaper: Glyndyn Ringrose<br />

Length: 5’6” - 6’6”<br />

Width: 19” - 21 ½"<br />

Thickness: 2 ¼” - 2 ¾"<br />

Description: A<br />

loose and skatey<br />

feel underfoot, this<br />

performance fish works<br />

well in small to medium<br />

sized surf. A rounder<br />

outline and bottom curve<br />

combined with single/<br />

double concave and a<br />

diamond tail adds up to a<br />

whole lot of summer fun!<br />

Construction: Handshaped<br />

PU blank, 6 and<br />

4oz deck, 4oz bottom.<br />

Fins: FCS or Futures in a<br />

thruster or quad setup.<br />

Shaper comment: Fast<br />

becoming one of our<br />

most popular designs,<br />

especially leading into<br />

the summer months.<br />

As always, the custom<br />

option allows you to<br />

tweak specifications to<br />

suit your needs.<br />

BUMBLE BEE<br />

Shaper: Mark Richards<br />

Length: 5’6”- 6’8”<br />

Width: 21”- 22 ¼”<br />

Thickness: 2 ½”- 2 7 / 8”<br />

Ideal conditions: 1-3 foot<br />

Description: A new fish<br />

model for Summmer <strong>2011</strong><br />

based on the 1 st twin fin I<br />

shaped in 1976. Traditional<br />

fish outline with a wing<br />

swallow to help rail-to-rail<br />

transition, single to double<br />

concave bottom.<br />

Construction: Burford Pu<br />

Foam, Burford Surf 9 Glass,<br />

Silmar USA Resin<br />

Fins: FCS twins, or option<br />

for thruster or quad set-up.<br />

Shaper’s Comment: This<br />

board will be so much fun<br />

in small summer surf that<br />

you will be checking the<br />

surf report hoping for ‘crap’<br />

surf so you can ride it!!!<br />

FLYING FISH<br />

Shaper: Mark Richards<br />

Length: 5’6”- 7’6”<br />

Width: 19 ½”- 22 ¼”<br />

Thickness: 2 3 / 8”- 3”<br />

Ideal conditions: 2-6 foot<br />

Description:<br />

A performance semi-fish.<br />

The full nose and thickness<br />

distribution makes it really<br />

easy to paddle. Single to<br />

double concave bottom for<br />

speed and a wing swallow<br />

tail which makes it easy to<br />

get up on a rail for turns.<br />

Construction: Burford Pu<br />

Foam, Burford Surf 9 Glass,<br />

Silmar USA Resin<br />

Fins: FCS thruster or<br />

optional 2 + 1, quad or<br />

5-fin set-up<br />

Shaper’s Comment:<br />

This is the most popular<br />

model in my range because<br />

it fits between a narrow<br />

thruster and a wide fish, so<br />

it can be ridden in a variety<br />

of conditions from small to<br />

decent size surf.<br />

C U S T O M K N E E B O A R D S<br />

PARKES AUSTRALIA<br />

4/83 Centennial Circuit<br />

Byron Bay, NSW<br />

Ph: 02 6685 6627<br />

E: d-par@bigpond.com<br />

parkesaustralia.com<br />

ISLAND SURFBOARDS<br />

147 Thompson Ave,<br />

Cowes, Phillip Island VIC<br />

Ph: 03 5952 2578<br />

E: cowes@<br />

islandsurfboards.com.au<br />

islandsurfboards.com.au<br />

ISLAND SURFBOARDS<br />

147 Thompson Ave,<br />

Cowes, Phillip Island VIC<br />

Ph: 03 5952 2578<br />

E: cowes@<br />

islandsurfboards.com.au<br />

islandsurfboards.com.au<br />

MARK RICHARDS<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

755 Hunter Street,<br />

Newcastle West<br />

NSW Australia 2300<br />

Ph: 02 4961 3<strong>08</strong>8<br />

Fax: 02 4961 6872<br />

markrichardssurfboards.com<br />

MARK RICHARDS<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

755 Hunter Street,<br />

Newcastle West<br />

NSW Australia 2300<br />

Ph: 02 4961 3<strong>08</strong>8<br />

Fax: 02 4961 6872<br />

markrichardssurfboards.com<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

165


TWIN FISH<br />

SHORTBOARD<br />

FISH-FINGER<br />

THE RFX<br />

THE VENOM<br />

Shaper: Woody Jack<br />

Dimensions:<br />

5’5”x 19 5 /8 x 2 ½“<br />

Ideal conditions: 1-5 foot<br />

Suits: Smaller beachies<br />

and point breaks<br />

Ability: Intermediate to<br />

advanced surfers<br />

Description: pigmented<br />

twin fish<br />

Construction:<br />

Burford polyurethane<br />

blank, with 6oz pigment<br />

Fins: FCS FK2<br />

Shaper comment: Great<br />

fun when the waves are a<br />

little smaller and gutless.<br />

Super responsive from top<br />

to bottom, but also holds<br />

plenty of speed out on the<br />

face of the wave... A really<br />

fun board for summer.<br />

Shaper: Woody Jack<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’1”x 19 ¼” x 2 3 / 8”<br />

Ideal conditions: 2-6 foot<br />

Suits: All good points,<br />

beachbreaks and reefbreaks<br />

Ability: Intermediate to<br />

advanced surfers<br />

Description: High<br />

performance short board<br />

for guys over 80kg. Single<br />

to double concave.<br />

Construction:<br />

Burford polyurethane<br />

blank, 4 x 4oz deck, 4oz<br />

bottom glassed with Surf 9<br />

cloth and Silmar resin<br />

Fins: FCS FK2.1<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Enjoy your surfing, get<br />

barrelled, bust your fins<br />

out and keep smiling...<br />

Woody<br />

Shaper: Mark PridMORE<br />

Specs: 5’10” x 20” x 2 ¾”<br />

Ideal: Super FUN in<br />

smallish waves. Doesn’t<br />

matter if its peeling or<br />

crap, still get ya stoked<br />

Suits: open minded<br />

people who are willing to<br />

try something fresh and<br />

FUN...<br />

Description: A<br />

high-volume slab of<br />

semi-finless FUN. They<br />

have training keels but<br />

can be ridden finless. The<br />

fins can be reversed for<br />

different amounts of hold<br />

depending if you want<br />

to spin or trim. They give<br />

a bit of the freedom of<br />

finless, but with some<br />

hold and drive. Crazy FUN<br />

and addictive.<br />

Construction: Good old<br />

PU foam and fibreglass<br />

Fins: Sometimes...<br />

Training keels or none<br />

Shapers Comment: This<br />

is a custom for a guy who<br />

rode three Fish-Fingers at<br />

a demo day. He was very<br />

surprised how well they<br />

went and you will be too.<br />

Shaper: Jim Parkinson<br />

(Shaping at Jackson’s<br />

since 1974)<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’10” x 22” x 3”<br />

Conditions: Small to<br />

medium sized waves<br />

Suits: Beginner to<br />

advanced surfers riding a<br />

short board but needing a<br />

bigger board for smaller<br />

days, surfers coming<br />

down from a Malibu and<br />

bigger guys not wanting<br />

to ride a Malibu<br />

Description: Big fish<br />

RFX - Sizes 6’4 to 8’4.<br />

Construction: PU foam<br />

with polyester resin.<br />

Fins: Five-fin setup, FCS<br />

plus. Ridden as thruster or<br />

quad. Comes with fins.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Don’t be fooled by the<br />

volume. This board is very<br />

manueverable from the<br />

tail and very quick down<br />

the line. Pretty much allround<br />

board that you can<br />

catch heaps of waves on.<br />

Shaper: Jim Parkinson<br />

(Shaping at Jackson’s<br />

since 1974)<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’ x 20 ¾” x 2 11 /16”<br />

Conditions: 1-5ft<br />

Suits: Beginner to<br />

Advanced<br />

Description: Mini, nini<br />

Malibu from 5’3 to 8’.<br />

Construction: PU foam<br />

with polyester resin.<br />

Fins: 10’ box in centre<br />

with FCS quad fins<br />

(supplied with board) for<br />

any combination of fins.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Super fun to ride. Can<br />

be ridden with any<br />

combination of fins, can<br />

be a noserider or surfed<br />

like a shortboard from<br />

the tail.<br />

WOODY JACK<br />

SURFBOARDS AUSTRALIA<br />

Unit 7, 25 Leonard Parade,<br />

Currumbin QLD<br />

Ph: 0415 789 706<br />

E: wjboards@gmail.com<br />

www.woodyjack.com<br />

WOODY JACK<br />

SURFBOARDS AUSTRALIA<br />

Unit 7, 25 Leonard Parade,<br />

Currumbin QLD<br />

Ph: 0415 789 706<br />

E: wjboards@gmail.com<br />

www.woodyjack.com<br />

MORE SURFBOARDS<br />

Ph: 0405 475 026<br />

www.moresurfboards.com<br />

Also available through<br />

Da Bomb Surf Centres in<br />

Maroochydore and Bokarina.<br />

www.dabombsurf.com.au<br />

JACKSON SURFBOARDS<br />

57 Captain Cook Drive,<br />

Caringbah, NSW<br />

Open 7 days<br />

Ph: 02 9524 2700<br />

Mobile: 0407 909 137<br />

www.jacksonsurfboards.com.au<br />

Join us on facebook<br />

JACKSON SURFBOARDS<br />

57 Captain Cook Drive,<br />

Caringbah, NSW<br />

Open 7 days<br />

Ph: 02 9524 2700<br />

Mobile: 0407 909 137<br />

www.jacksonsurfboards.com.au<br />

Join us on facebook<br />

166 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

167


SHAPER’S PROMOTION<br />

GEAR: BOARDS<br />

THE WALL HANGER<br />

OK NOW<br />

THAT I<br />

HAVE YOUR<br />

ATTENTION...<br />

Look at the board on<br />

the right.<br />

Ralph Riddell won<br />

First Place - Best Artist<br />

for the Art of Surfing<br />

Competition 2010.<br />

This particular creation<br />

took second place in<br />

the Art of Surfing<br />

Competition <strong>2011</strong>.<br />

See this and more arty<br />

farty stuff on my Ralph<br />

Riddell Surfboard and Art<br />

Facebook.<br />

www.facebook.com/<br />

pages/Ralph-Riddell-<br />

Surfboards-and-<br />

Artworks/120358388002237<br />

THE SURFBOARD<br />

Shaper: Ralph Riddell<br />

Specs: Whatever you<br />

want, but this one is<br />

5’11” x 18’ 5 / 8” x 2’¼”<br />

Description: I could<br />

bore you with how this<br />

board is fast but loose,<br />

strong but light, good<br />

for airs and tubes and<br />

can surf in all conditions<br />

from 1ft to 10ft. But I<br />

won’t...<br />

Shapers Comments:<br />

When you buy a new<br />

board you are also<br />

buying a little piece of<br />

the person that made it.<br />

It’s a vibe thing. So if<br />

you want a board that<br />

goes well but also has<br />

a good energy about<br />

it, then call Ralphie for<br />

custom shapes.<br />

THE HOT DOG<br />

Shaper: Dean “Dino” Tziolis<br />

Dimensions: 5’4” - 6’<br />

Suits: Anyone - Custom<br />

Description: Fun<br />

shortboard. Super quick,<br />

easy to get up and<br />

planing, yet responds<br />

positively to rider input.<br />

Wider planshape for<br />

small surf. Enough rocker<br />

for medium surf. Ride<br />

about 4” shorter than<br />

a standard shortboard.<br />

Original print Goodtime<br />

logos - it’s a piece of<br />

Australian surfing history.<br />

Construction: South<br />

Coast Foam. 2 x 4oz glass.<br />

Rails are lapped on the<br />

bottom edge in carbon<br />

Fins: AFC<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Goodtime prides itself<br />

on making quality<br />

surfboards and has done<br />

so since 1971. Whether<br />

it’s a classic shape, a<br />

performance thruster<br />

or a simple fish tail, no<br />

matter how many fins...<br />

its been here or its in<br />

here. Goodtime is what<br />

surfing is all about. Over<br />

thirty years later, we’re<br />

still having a good time<br />

surfing!<br />

THE BIG EASY<br />

Shaper: Simon Jones<br />

Dimensions: 6’2” - 7’<br />

Suits: Anyone - Custom<br />

Description: Semi<br />

roundhouse wing round<br />

tail with a vee through<br />

centre toward tail.<br />

Construction: Burford<br />

blank, fully handshaped.<br />

6/6/6oz Bay Mills glass<br />

Silmar polyester resins.<br />

Fins: Thruster FCS set up<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Goodtime prides itself<br />

on making quality<br />

surfboards and has done<br />

so since 1971. Whether<br />

it’s a classic shape, a<br />

performance thruster or a<br />

simple fish tail, no matter<br />

how many fins... its been<br />

here or its in here. Over<br />

thirty years later, we’re<br />

still having a good time<br />

surfing!<br />

Rider comment: “After<br />

catching a couple of<br />

waves went to the back<br />

and found it was really<br />

maneuverable, very fun<br />

and you could walk up and<br />

down it as well”<br />

Tyler Wright<br />

DUMPLING<br />

Shaper: Mark PridMORE<br />

Specs: 5’5” x 20 5 / 8” x 2 ¾”<br />

(This is my personal board)<br />

Ideal: Those waves you<br />

never used to enjoy<br />

Suits: Custom for anybody<br />

Description: Inspired<br />

by the mini-Simmons<br />

(dim-SIM) but looking to<br />

make the ultimate groveller.<br />

It has flat rocker for speed,<br />

high volume so they paddle<br />

great and the bottom<br />

contours to make it super<br />

lively and responsive.<br />

Construction: Standard<br />

foam and fibreglass. Works<br />

well, feels great and is<br />

affordable. No carbon,<br />

kevlar or titanium, its a<br />

small wave surfboard, not<br />

the space shuttle<br />

Fins: Quad - fast, drivey<br />

and super responsive<br />

Shapers Comment: To<br />

enjoy small waves MORE,<br />

this is the board. It isnt an<br />

all rounder, no compromise<br />

on design features, this is<br />

totally for head high and<br />

below...<br />

RALPH RIDDELL<br />

M: 0412 828 848<br />

retroralph@three.com.au<br />

RALPH RIDDELL<br />

M: 0412 828 848<br />

retroralph@three.com.au<br />

GOODTIME SURFBOARDS<br />

29 Ipswich Rd,<br />

Woolloongabba QLD 4102<br />

Ph: 07 3391 8588<br />

info@goodtime.com.au<br />

www.goodtime.com.au<br />

GOODTIME SURFBOARDS<br />

29 Ipswich Rd,<br />

Woolloongabba QLD 4102<br />

Ph: 07 3391 8588<br />

info@goodtime.com.au<br />

www.goodtime.com.au<br />

MORE SURFBOARDS<br />

Ph: 0405 475 026<br />

www.moresurfboards.com<br />

Also available through<br />

Da Bomb Surf Centres in<br />

Maroochydore and Bokarina.<br />

www.dabombsurf.com.au<br />

168 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


GEAR: BOARDS<br />

SHAPER’S PROMOTION<br />

POINTSTA<br />

Shaper:<br />

Glen “Pugs” Johnson<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’4” x 19” x 2 3 / 8”<br />

Ideal conditions: Fast,<br />

hollow waves.<br />

Description: With a big<br />

curve on the bottom, this<br />

is a down-the-line, rail-torail<br />

barrell chaser.<br />

Construction: All<br />

gangsta boards are<br />

100% hand shaped. 3ply<br />

stringers for strength<br />

Fins: FCS or Future<br />

Shaper comment: Fins<br />

are placed strategically<br />

for drive and release.<br />

Maximum curve to adapt<br />

to those sucky sections,<br />

but still a bit of meat to<br />

get out the back<br />

GANGSTA SURFBOARDS<br />

Glen ‘Pugs’ Johnson<br />

Ph: 0438 158 993 or<br />

+62 81 805 534 069 (Bali)<br />

Mermaid Beach Store<br />

Shop 1/2558 Gold Coast<br />

Coast Hwy, Mermaid<br />

Beach, QLD 4218<br />

Ph: 07 5526 6969<br />

Gangsta Surf - Bali<br />

Poppies Lane 1 Kuta<br />

Bali-Indonesia<br />

Ph: +62 361 767 174<br />

www.gangstasurf.com<br />

POPSTER PRO<br />

Shaper: Ed Sinnott<br />

Specs: From 5’4 - 6’4”<br />

Get in touch for customs<br />

Ideal conditions:<br />

Anything up to 6’<br />

Description: This is a<br />

combination of all my<br />

old single fin and twinfin<br />

templates combined with<br />

new school bottom curves<br />

and rails. The result is a<br />

sensational hybrid that<br />

flys. Flat entry, deep vortex<br />

concave, razor edges and<br />

wet and dry finish.<br />

Construction: Burford/<br />

South Coast PU blanks,<br />

Silmar polyester resin,<br />

Colan and Surf Nine glass.<br />

This combination has<br />

stood the test of time.<br />

Fins: Quad or thruster<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

A unique and amazing<br />

hybrid board that goes<br />

ballistic in anything.<br />

Developed by Josh Sleep,<br />

Jono Salfeild and the<br />

Afends boys in Byron Bay.<br />

They see it as a majestic<br />

alternative for all round<br />

surfing. Tried and tested,<br />

it’s proved them right.<br />

ESP SURFBOARDS<br />

2/81 Centennial Circuit<br />

Byron Bay, NSW<br />

Ph: 0404 059 321<br />

www.espsurfshop.com.au<br />

www.edsinnott.com.au<br />

OLD EIGHTY ONE<br />

Shaper: Ed Sinnott<br />

Specs: From 5’4 - 6’4”<br />

Get in touch for customs<br />

Ideal conditions:<br />

Anything up the 6’<br />

Description: Similar to<br />

the Popster and Whiplash,<br />

but has the deepest<br />

concave and widest nose<br />

of the three. I combined<br />

my single fin and old<br />

twin fin templates to<br />

get the 13’’ nose looking<br />

good and put the wide<br />

point 2’’ forward. Loose<br />

off the front foot and is<br />

multidirectional. Deep<br />

concave drives through<br />

dead sections.<br />

Construction: Burford/<br />

South Coast PU blanks,<br />

Silmar polyester resin,<br />

Colan and Surf Nine glass.<br />

Fins: Quad or thruster<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Developed along with<br />

Jake Spooner, a former<br />

top ten professional surfer<br />

who I first started making<br />

boards for in the early 80s.<br />

Extremely fast and stable<br />

in bigger sections, it can be<br />

surfed vertically as well.<br />

ESP SURFBOARDS<br />

2/81 Centennial Circuit<br />

Byron Bay, NSW<br />

Ph: 0404 059 321<br />

www.espsurfshop.com.au<br />

www.edsinnott.com.au<br />

ESP Team Rider Joel<br />

‘Whitey’ White using<br />

his extra senses in<br />

Coffs Harbour.<br />

Photo: Ben Jackson<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

169


MUFF DIVER THE METRO 3<br />

STUMP FISH<br />

5-FIN FISH<br />

HIGH PERFORMANCE<br />

MAXIMUM MALIBU<br />

Shaper: Greg Brown<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’2” x 20 ¼ X 2 5 /8”<br />

Ideal conditions: From<br />

super summer slop to 4ft<br />

Ability level:<br />

Intermediate to expert<br />

Description: Muff Diver<br />

is a board that is curvy,<br />

short and wide and offers<br />

a heap of fun and speed<br />

for the summer slop. It’s<br />

surfed 1” to 4” shorter<br />

then your height and is<br />

one for the quiver for this<br />

summer.<br />

Construction: Built to last.<br />

6oz bottom, 10oz deck<br />

Fins: FCS Fusion<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Quick, slick and gets you<br />

in the groove.<br />

Zak Surfboards has a<br />

massive range of Gash<br />

surfboards in store.<br />

Customs from Greg Brown<br />

can be ordered through<br />

Zak Surfboards in<br />

Melbourne.<br />

Shaper: Maurice Cole<br />

Specs: 6’4” x 21” x 2 ¾”<br />

Ideal: 1-5ft<br />

Ability: Int. to advanced<br />

Description: Combines<br />

width and thickness of<br />

retro fish, but introduces<br />

tow-inspired bottom<br />

rocker and very deep<br />

concave. More width in<br />

tail for larger sweet spot.<br />

Accentuated change in<br />

curve loosens the board<br />

up. A foot in both camps,<br />

this replaces all Fish. Has<br />

stability and float while<br />

still maintaining the edgy<br />

characteristics of speed<br />

and rippability.<br />

Construction: PU blank,<br />

epoxy resin, 6oz bottom,<br />

4 x 4oz deck.<br />

Fins: Future or FCS<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Unlike old fish, it sits high<br />

on steep, fast sections<br />

and won’t morph into a<br />

shopping trolley style slide.<br />

This is no bog monster.<br />

Zak Surfboards holds a<br />

massive range of Metros,<br />

Protows and offers<br />

customs from Maurice<br />

Cole Surfboards.<br />

Shaper: Andrew Stump<br />

Dimensions:<br />

5’10” x 20” x 2 ½”<br />

Ideal: Flat, fat, up to 4ft<br />

Ability level:<br />

Beginners to advanced<br />

Description: Catches<br />

waves with ease due<br />

to volume and area in<br />

the nose - in conjuction<br />

with the rocker, makes<br />

the board super fast<br />

with heaps of drive. It<br />

comes in different tail<br />

configurations, but the<br />

swallow has proven to<br />

be best.<br />

Construction: Standard in<br />

PU/polyester or EPS/epoxy<br />

but now in conjunction<br />

with Howie at Baggies,<br />

we’re doing an epoxy<br />

that’s twice as strong and<br />

half the weight.<br />

Fins: Thrusters and Quad.<br />

Futures or FCS Fusion.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Contact Zak or pop into<br />

the shop and check out<br />

the range of boards. Order<br />

customs through Zak<br />

Surfboards.<br />

Shaper: Stewart Maxwell<br />

Specs: 6’ x 20 ½” x 2 ¼”<br />

Ideal conditions: 1-5 foot<br />

Description: Great<br />

paddler can be used as a<br />

quad or thruster. Five fin<br />

set up.<br />

Construction: High<br />

performance 4 x 4 x 4<br />

glassing or any combo<br />

you like with whatever<br />

tail you prefer.<br />

Fins: 5-fin fibreglass<br />

Shaper’s Comment:<br />

Easy paddler, flat deck<br />

rocker, concave bottom.<br />

All boards are custom and<br />

fitted with SBT Surfboard<br />

Tracker security systems.<br />

As a custom specialist<br />

with 40 years experience.<br />

I make surfboards with<br />

personality, talk with you,<br />

find out exactly what you<br />

require and then make it.<br />

Shaper: Stewart Maxwell<br />

Specs: 9’1” x 22 ½” x 2 ¾”<br />

Ideal conditions:<br />

1ft to as big as you would<br />

like to put it into.<br />

Description: Concave<br />

nose to flat, to 6mm<br />

V with double-barrell<br />

concaves through tail.<br />

Any tail you like.<br />

Construction: Double 6oz<br />

deck with 6oz bottom or<br />

any combo you require.<br />

Fins: Comes with 10” fin<br />

box, 9.5” fibreglass pivot<br />

fin and two trailers<br />

Shaper’s Comment:<br />

Modern Malibu you<br />

can noseride. It’s very<br />

manoeuvrable and won’t<br />

let you down.<br />

All boards are custom and<br />

fitted with SBT Surfboard<br />

Tracker security systems.<br />

As a custom specialist<br />

with 40 years experience.<br />

I make surfboards with<br />

personality, talk with you,<br />

find out exactly what you<br />

require and then make it.<br />

ZAK SURFBOARDS<br />

307 Victoria Road<br />

Thornbury VIC 3071<br />

Ph: 03 9416 7384<br />

Mobile: 0438 416 738<br />

zak@zaksurfboards.com<br />

zaksurfboards.com<br />

ZAK SURFBOARDS<br />

307 Victoria Road<br />

Thornbury VIC 3071<br />

Ph: 03 9416 7384<br />

Mobile: 0438 416 738<br />

zak@zaksurfboards.com<br />

zaksurfboards.com<br />

ZAK SURFBOARDS<br />

307 Victoria Road<br />

Thornbury VIC 3071<br />

Ph: 03 9416 7384<br />

Mobile: 0438 416 738<br />

zak@zaksurfboards.com<br />

zaksurfboards.com<br />

MAXIMUM SURF PTY LTD<br />

Currumbin QLD 4223<br />

Ph: 07 5559 5940<br />

Mob: 0400 338 098<br />

maximumsurf@bigpond.com<br />

maximumsurfdesigns.com<br />

MAXIMUM SURF PTY LTD<br />

Currumbin QLD 4223<br />

Ph: 07 5559 5940<br />

Mob: 0400 338 098<br />

maximumsurf@bigpond.com<br />

maximumsurfdesigns.com<br />

170 nov/dec <strong>2011</strong>


GEAR: BOARDS<br />

SHAPER’S PROMOTION<br />

THE WORM<br />

THE WESTY<br />

SINGLE FIN<br />

FLEXTAIL<br />

GOLDFISH<br />

Shaper: Jade Robinson<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’4”x 19 ½” x 2 ½”<br />

Ideal conditions: 1-6ft<br />

Ability level:<br />

Intermediate and up.<br />

Suits: All<br />

Description: Semi<br />

all-rounder. A little extra<br />

foam to keep the flow.<br />

This board has the same<br />

concaves and tweaked<br />

vee as The Westy to keep<br />

it fast and loose but with<br />

slightly more entry rocker.<br />

Construction: PU<br />

Fins: Thruster<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

A board that still has<br />

plenty of performance<br />

as well as being user<br />

friendly, with a softer feel<br />

all around. This board<br />

teamed with the Shapers<br />

S-Plugs and fins means<br />

the level of looseness is<br />

uo to you.<br />

DSN SURFBOARDS/<br />

JADE ROBINSON SHAPES<br />

31 Rowlins Road,<br />

Gerringong NSW 2534<br />

Ph: 02 4234 1931<br />

M: 0402 944 672<br />

dsnsurfboards@gmail.com<br />

Shaper: Jade Robinson<br />

Dimensions:<br />

6’ x 20” x 2 5 /8”<br />

Ideal conditions: 2-5ft<br />

Ability level: All. Suits all<br />

weights<br />

Suits: All weights<br />

Description: Super fun<br />

small wave board for<br />

all levels of surfer. Extra<br />

foam to get ya up and<br />

into ‘em nice and early.<br />

The Westy can be custom<br />

ordered to suit.<br />

Construction: PU<br />

Fins: Thruster or Quad.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Fun, loose and fast.<br />

Low rocker with single to<br />

double concave through<br />

fins, fusing with a<br />

tweaked vee.<br />

DSN SURFBOARDS/<br />

JADE ROBINSON SHAPES<br />

31 Rowlins Road,<br />

Gerringong NSW 2534<br />

Ph: 02 4234 1931<br />

M: 0402 944 672<br />

dsnsurfboards@gmail.com<br />

Shaper: Paul Carson<br />

Dimensions:<br />

7’4” x 21 ½” x 3”<br />

Ideal conditions: 2 - 6ft<br />

Suits: Anyone<br />

Description: Double<br />

flyer, round pin single fin.<br />

Very light concave running<br />

to vee in tail.<br />

Construction: Burford<br />

blank. Red tint all over<br />

with pinlines.<br />

Fins: Set single fin,<br />

handmade.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Bigger board for someone<br />

chasing single fin cruise.<br />

THE FACTORY<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

CALOUNDRA<br />

17 Allen Street<br />

Caloundra QLD 4551<br />

Ph: 07 5492 5838<br />

paul@thefactorysurfboards.com.au<br />

thefactorysurfboards.com.au<br />

Shaper: Jed Done<br />

Specs: 6’1”x 20 ¼” x 2 5 /8”<br />

Ideal: Shoulder high to<br />

double over head.<br />

Description: All round<br />

flextail quad, born from 11<br />

years of riding and refining<br />

flextails.Wedge stringer,<br />

wide point forward, deep<br />

concave underfoot, foil<br />

shape and negative rocker<br />

in flextail all lead towards<br />

speed and drive.<br />

The ‘v’ in the flextail<br />

gives the rail rocker a<br />

hip that lines up with<br />

the leading edge of the<br />

quad fins. Fins have a<br />

slight twist in the tip<br />

for a wider sweet spot,<br />

allowing the board<br />

to go from rail to rail<br />

easily. This all means a<br />

fast board that turns well.<br />

Construction: Dion PU<br />

foam. Single wedged<br />

stringer. Tinted glass<br />

bottom with resin pinline.<br />

Carbon fiber flextail .<br />

Fins: 4WFS for flexibility<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

Works from 5’5” to<br />

7’. It goes best 2-3”<br />

shorter, ½” wider and ¼”<br />

thicker than your regular<br />

shortboard.<br />

Don’t be afraid of the<br />

dark, these things go like<br />

a cut snake!!<br />

BUSHRAT SURFBOARDS<br />

Merimbula NSW<br />

Ph: 0409 813 431<br />

E: jed@bushrat.com<br />

www.bushrat.com<br />

Shaper: Jed Done<br />

Specs: 6’1”x 20 5 /8” x 2 3 /8”<br />

Ideal: Waist high to 4ft.<br />

Superb in the shit and<br />

outstanding in quality.<br />

Ability: Intermediate to<br />

advanced.<br />

Description: Swallow<br />

tail Reverse-Curve<br />

Flextail. Initially built for<br />

summer slop but like all<br />

boards goes well in good<br />

surf. Slight V through<br />

to concave in the tail.<br />

Semi keel side fins with<br />

a stabilizer or back quad<br />

fins. Flatter than regular<br />

rocker. The whole board<br />

is geared up for down the<br />

line flow.<br />

Construction: Dion<br />

PU foam. Twin timber<br />

stringers with balsa<br />

nose block, carbon fibre<br />

flextail.<br />

Fins: 4 Way Fin System<br />

SK Semi Keels.<br />

Shaper comment:<br />

The board was a custom<br />

for a Central Coast surfer,<br />

6’3” high and weighing<br />

92kg, for long point<br />

breaks to idyllic beachies.<br />

BUSHRAT SURFBOARDS<br />

Merimbula NSW<br />

Ph: 0409 813 431<br />

E: jed@bushrat.com<br />

www.bushrat.com<br />

nov/dec <strong>2011</strong><br />

171


For<br />

surfers<br />

that like<br />

to go ‘Au<br />

Naturale’...<br />

SWALLOWTAIL<br />

THE LB FISH<br />

THE EGG<br />

PERFORMANCE PRO<br />

6-CHANNEL<br />

Shaper: Dave O’Reilly<br />

Specs: 6’6” x 17” x ¾”<br />

Ideal: 1-4 foot and beyond<br />

Suits: Guys and girls with<br />

an open mind. Anyone<br />

who wants to get their<br />

slide on!<br />

Ability: Beginner to<br />

advanced, a good size<br />

to start your Alaia love<br />

affair on.<br />

Description: Shaped from<br />

premium grade Paulownia,<br />

this board has retro looks<br />

with ancient performance.<br />

A single concave from<br />

under your front foot to<br />

tail, and rails that are soft<br />

rolled at the edges allow<br />

sliding but not biting into<br />

the wave face.<br />

Construction: 100%<br />

Australian grown and<br />

milled Paulownia, sealed<br />

with raw linseed and gum<br />

turpentine concoction.<br />

Fins: No fins baby – just<br />

fast and friction-free.<br />

Shaper comment: If you<br />

haven’t surfed an Alaia yet<br />

then get some wood under<br />

your feet. These boards are<br />

super-fast and will take you<br />

back to surfing in its purest<br />

form…FUN!<br />

Shaper: Andrew Wells<br />

Specs: 5’10” x 21 ½” x 2 3 /8”<br />

Ideal:<br />

Small to medium waves.<br />

Great for summer days.<br />

Description: Plenty of<br />

width under the chest<br />

gives it plenty of paddle<br />

power. Once up and<br />

running, this board flies.<br />

Being hollow timber the<br />

board has plenty of float<br />

and easily skips over any<br />

fat sections, while still<br />

maintaining speed and<br />

drive. Additional weight<br />

gives a nice smooth flow<br />

in the water for carving<br />

your turns with pure style.<br />

A great fun, responsive<br />

small wave magnet.<br />

Construction: Hollow<br />

timber. Plantation-grown<br />

Paulownia, recycled cedar.<br />

Fins: Twins fins, Keels, Quads<br />

Shaper comment: Great<br />

small wave board - one<br />

of my personal favorites.<br />

Every Grown board is<br />

individually hand crafted<br />

from recycled and<br />

plantation grown timber,<br />

takes over 30 hrs to hand<br />

craft and is completely<br />

unique. They look great,<br />

surf great and will give<br />

you years of enjoyment.<br />

Shaper: Andrew Wells<br />

Specs: 6’4 x 21 ½ x 2 9 /8”<br />

Ideal conditions:<br />

Small to medium waves.<br />

Great for summer days.<br />

Description: Wider nose<br />

and slightly drawn-in tail,<br />

slightly softer rails and<br />

is a little more forgiving<br />

through manoeuvres<br />

without compromising the<br />

ride. Being hollow timber,<br />

the board has plenty of<br />

float and easily skips over<br />

any fat sections, while<br />

still maintaining speed<br />

and drive. The additional<br />

weight in a timber board<br />

gives them a nice smooth<br />

flow in the water.<br />

Construction: Hollow<br />

timber. Plantation-grown<br />

Paulownia, recycled cedar.<br />

Fins: Single<br />

Shaper comment: A<br />

great fun alternative board<br />

for any day. Every Grown<br />

board is individually hand<br />

crafted from recycled and<br />

plantation grown timber,<br />

takes over 30 hrs to hand<br />

craft and is completely<br />

unique. They look great,<br />

surf great and will give<br />

you years of enjoyment.<br />

Shaper: Sam Egan<br />

Dimensions:<br />

Order from 5’6” to 7’2”<br />

Ideal conditions: 0-6ft<br />

Ability level: Advanced.<br />

Description: Developed<br />

over years of feedback<br />

from teamriders. Single to<br />