Smorgasboarder_32_November_2015-s

INSIDE: BUILDING A CARDBOARD SURFBOARD | INTRODUCING NEW COLUMNS - THE SURF SAGE & SMOKE SIGNALS | AMAZING SURF TRAVEL 

№ 32 

- XMAS - 

2015 

F R E E S U R F M A G A Z I N E 

KIWIS 

SANDY RYAN GOES 

SURFING WITH SOME MATES 

FROM ACROSS THE DITCH 

Photo: Jim Culley 

ONPI

2 

| XMAS 2015 

SMORGASBOARDER

XMAS 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER 3

HUGE RANGE, 

U WON’T BUY BETTA! 

OPEN 7 DAYS 

Goodtime Surf and Sail 

29 Ipswich Rd 

Woolloongabba, QLD 

+ 61 7 3391 8588 

www.goodtime.com.au 

LET’S BOOGIE 

4 


SMORGASBOARDER

LET’S 

RIP 

Buy or Layby 

NOW for 

Christmas 


6 


SMORGASBOARDER


THIS TIME 

OF YEAR 

No matter what your faith or beliefs may be Christmas presents 

all of us with an opportunity to express, and indeed show how 

much we care about others. 

It’s a chance to grab quality time with family and friends; to 

celebrate the life we lead in this great corner of the planet. 

Indeed all of our stories in this edition are centred around doing 

just that, sharing the good times and treasuring what we have... 

Along with a couple of little treasures of the surfboard kind. 

This time of year also presents us with the opportunity to pause 

and reflect for one small moment in our busy lives and consider 

how we can have a positive impact on the lives of others, 

beyond just our family and friends, and take affirmative action to 

make the world a better place, to help those less fortunate who 

need assistance and just generally be a good person; to be the 

person we hopefully all aspire to be. 

Now it goes without saying your local break come the Christmas 

holidays becomes quite crowded and yes that may have an 

impact on your personal wave count. No amount of huffing and 

puffing and swearing though is going to change this fact. Please 

remember why many of us surf; to relax, unwind, have fun, 

share a laugh. So share the good times so everyone gets to have 

a good time. Share the waves so everyone gets to have a few 

waves. Selfishly snake and grab every wave you can to get your 

personal wave tally up will only make you a knob, not some selfperceived 

wave god. No one owns the ocean. Be considerate. 

If there is any one surfer at this particular moment that 

epitomises this selfless attitude of showing goodwill to others, 

expecting nothing in return, it is Mick Fanning. Far beyond his 

feats on the tour and in claiming three world titles is the way so 

often of late he has taken time out of his busy schedule to make 

life a little better for someone less fortunate. 

Since his well-publicised brush in July with a toothy ocean 

compatriot in South Africa, Mick has made wishes come true 

for those suffering personal hardships. Following his encounter 

Mick donated his $75k appearance fee for the exclusive 

interview with 60 Minutes to Ballina shark attack victim Matt 

Lee’s recovery fund. The following month he went surfing with a 

young girl called Xavia who suffers from Cystic Fibrosis causing 

her to go in and out of hospital on a monthly basis. Most 

recently he took to the waves again and made a dream come 

true for teenager Ben Beasley who is in recovery from brain 

cancer. Mick Fanning’s feats as human being are now becoming 

more revered worldwide than his surfing ability. 

Mick has shown there is a lot more to surfing, and what it 

means to be a surfer, than merely the individual riding waves. 

This holiday season, follow Mick’s lead and be a legend in and 

out of the water by showing there is more to your makeup as 

a surfer than your ability on the wave. Have fun, be safe and 

consider others. 

Cheers! 

the Smorgasboarders 

8 

SMORGASBOARDER | XMAS 2015

“MICK HAS SHOWN THERE IS A 

LOT MORE TO SURFING, AND 

WHAT IT MEANS TO BE A SURFER" 

WELCOME 

Mick Fanning back home on the GC after his sharky encounter 

Photo: Craig Bessant - www.facebook.com/FOAMBALLS 


ALSO 

AVAILABLE 

Custom Built 

This board has been custom built by hand in 

Australia. In fact, Mark can build just about 

anything to suit the surfer, home décor, the 

occasion and the budget. 

He is very particular with the stringer 

combinations. This board has 40 stringers and 

is for a 40 th birthday. 

Balsawood is a fast grown wood that is 

sustainable. All boards and production are of 

an environmental friendly practice. 

Riley has been building boards since 1995 and 

continue to build unique boards. They build 

from light performance shortboards, to solid 

wallhangers, to classic birthday presents, light 

12ft SUP and everything inbetween. 

With over 1,000 sticks of balsa in stock to 

choose from in big 160mm x 75 x 3050mm 

pieces, you just can’t go wrong. 

• Fin boxes with all wood covers 

• Wood coloured fin boxes 

• Fin box install kits 

• Clear board grip tape - Let the 

beauty of the balsa show 

through with clear Versagrip 

Traction Tape. 

Environmentally friendly and 

suits all size boards. 

• Timber fins 

• Surfboards 

• Blanks 

• Cork tail pads & SUP deck grip 

• Aussie-made leashes 

• Raw balsa/ cedar DIY board kits 

• Instructional DVDs 

• Board racks 

• Tide clocks 

• LICK liquid 

surf wax. 

Wholesale 

enquires 

welcome 

SURFBOARDS THAT DON’T 

COST THE EARTH! 

SHIPPING ANYWHERE, INCLUDING NZ 

10 


SMORGASBOARDER

HANDCRAFTED IN AUSTRALIA 

Riley Balsawood Surfboards are made using renewable 

resource balsa and recycled polystyrene for performance, 

durability, beauty and lower environmental impact 

Call 0412 376 464 

or Email mark@riley.com.au 

www.balsasurfboardsriley.com.au 

Australian Environmentally-friendly handcrafted surfboards for the 

individual in all of us, with a guarantee. Enjoy Responsibly 


WHAT'S 

INSIDE... 

SMILES ON DIALS 

24 The great work of DSA volunteers 

DETAILS, CREDITS & STUFF 

Grab SMORGASBOARDER FREE at quality surf stores, shapers and 

cool cafés on the coast of Queensland, New South Wales, Victoria, 

South Australia, Tasmania, Western Australia and New Zealand... Be 

nice and buy something while you’re there. Or read it online. 

SUBSCRIBE 

FOR MAGAZINE 

HOME DELIVERY 

If you can’t get to a store or other venue to pick the mag up in person, 

you can also choose to have SMORGASBOARDER delivered to your 

door. See www.smorgasboarder.com.au. A few back issues are 

also available for $5 a piece, plus t-shirts & more! 

$25 AUS & NZ - 1 YEAR - SIX EDITIONS. 

THE COVER SHOT 

AINE TYRRELL 

62 Surf & song 

SURFING A CARDBOARD 

68 A reader puts it to the test 

Sandy Ryan, the Phillip Island madman we first featured 

way back in Smorgasboarder issue #1 graces our cover in 

this fantastic shot by NZ surf photographer Jim Culley. 

The full story on page 40, more of pics on jimages.co.nz. 

SMORGASBOARDERS 

CONTRIBUTING... 

12 

SMORGASBOARDER | XMAS 2015 

THE USUAL 

LATEST 

14 Reader photos 

20 News & Community 

GEAR 

86 Surfboards 

100 Ding Repairs 

CLOSEOUT 

105 Surfer’s Directories 

108 Movies 

109 Socials 

114 Aloha Barry 

Great summer 

surfboard designs! See 

Page 86 for more... 

ADVERTISING/EDITORIAL: 

Dave Swan 

dave@smorgasboarder.com.au 

0401 345 201 

NEW ZEALAND: 

‘Jiff’ Morris 

jeff@smorgasboarder.co.nz 

0220 943 913 

DESIGN/EDITORIAL: 

Mark Chapman 

mark@smorgasboarder.com.au 

SOUTH AUSTRALIA: 

James Ellis 

james@smorgasboarder.com.au 

0410 175 552 

ACCOUNTS: 

Louise Gough 

louise@smorgasboarder.com.au 

GEAR TESTS & REVIEWS: 

Gus Brown 

gus@smorgasboarder.com.au 

This is YOUR mag. It’s here for 

you to tell your stories, show 

your pictures and share your 

thoughts - and score some free 

stuff on the way too, to boot. 

E: editorial@smorgasboarder.com.au 

P: PO Box 501, Moffat Beach QLD 4551 

There’s only a few of us here, 

so please be patient when you 

get in touch - we’ll try our best 

to get back to you as soon as 

humanly possible. Get in touch 

to discuss any ideas you’d like 

to be considered for a future 

edition or online. 

BEST NON-DAILY 

PUBLICATION 

QUEENSLAND MULTIMEDIA 

AWARDS 2013 

WWW.SMORGASBOARDER.COM.AU 

Smorgasboarder is published by Huge C Media Pty Ltd ABN 30944673055. All 

information is correct at time of going to press. The publishers cannot accept 

responsibility for errors in articles or advertisements, or unsolicited manuscripts, 

photographs or illustrations. The opinions and words of the authors do not 

necessarily represent those of the publisher. All rights reserved. Reproduction in 

part or whole is strictly prohibited without prior permission.


READER 

PHOTOS 

14 


Boardwalking... Black Apache team rider Jye McDonald riding the Shewolf. 

Photo: Katrina McDonald, Rivermouth General Store, Tomakin NSW 

This issue’s reader photos score a copy of the new 

Clutch CD, “Psychic Warfare” (review in last issue). 

Send in your cracker shots for next edition to score 

yourself a pair of Barz Optics ‘Tavarua’ floating sunnies! 

letters@smorgasboarder.com.au 

DIAMOND DRIVE 

9’1 / 22 ¼” / 2 7 /8” 

9’2 / 22 ½” / 3” 

9’4 / 23” / 3 1 /16” 

FINS: 2 + 1 

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5’9 / 19” / 2 1 /2” 

5’11 / 19 3 /8” / 2 1 /2” 

6’1 / 19 3 /4” / 2 11 /16” 

FINS: 4 + 1 

02 4226 1322 

info@watermanssurf.com.au 


READER 

PHOTOS 

16 


While Queensland was experiencing the October 

doldrums, Cameron MacDougall from Caloundra 

(aged 12) and his brothers were enjoying heaven in 

the Mentawais at Awera Island. 

Photo: Karen MacDougall 

This issue’s reader photos score a copy of the new Clutch CD, “Psychic 

Warfare” (review in last issue). Send in your cracker shots for next edition 

to score yourself a pair of Barz Optics ‘Tavarua’ floating sunnies! 



CRAZY 

KIWIS 

18 


Got a cracker Kiwi surf shot? Love your coffee? If you’re in NZ, 

send in your surf shots and you could score a kilogram of beans 

from the folks Raglan Roast! The first bag goes to Jase Johns 

of NZSHRED in Queenstown for these line-ups. 

Email yours to letters@smorgasboarder.com.au 

Great coffee, roasted daily. Volcom Lane, Raglan NZ 

WWW.RAGLANROAST.CO.NZ 


Cabo 

Photochromic 

bi-focal lenses 

AKA: THE NEWS... COMMUNITY WHAT’S HAPPENINGS & OTHER ANNOUNCEMENTS 


smorgasboarder 

• Polarised 

• Polarised Bi Focal 

• Polarised Photochromic 

• Polarised PC (Melanin infused) 

• RX Prescription 

Tavarua 

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ABOVE: Mark Riley, working his surfboard-building magic with balsa wood. 

PNG BALSA BOARDS 

Keen on some adventure in Papua New Guinea? Grab the chance to 

do some surfing, fishing, snorkelling and even help build a PNG grown 

balsa surfboard with the locals? 

Famed balsa surfboard craftsman Mark Riley is taking a group of 12 

people to PNG for a 7-day, all-ages holiday in early January 2016. 

It is an unbelievable opportunity to not only see where Mark gets his 

balsawood and experience building a balsa board with him but also 

test his range of balsa boards from short to fish to long and maybe even 

bring one home with you. 

Mark says “We are taking a small group of 12 people as I like to keep 

it personal with the surfers and also show the locals how we make eco 

friendly balsa boards because they have the best balsa in the world and 

it’s on their doorstep.” 

For more on the travel package contact Mark at mark@riley.com.au or call 

him on 0412 376 464. To register for the newsletter to get updates go to 

shop.balsasurfboardsriley.com.au/contact-us 

RIGHT: 

Surfboard shaping, 

PNG-style... 

www.barzoptics.com 

Showroom - Unit 11 / 4 Leda Drive, 

Burleigh Heads QLD 4220 

Ph 07 5576 4365 

20 


ONE 

LOVE 

Sing it with a Jamaican 

accent and sway your head 

from side to side… “One 

love, one heart….” Ahh, 

the Bob Marley classic. You have to love it and we love the sound of a 

new surf brand called 1 Love Surfing started by Benny Bradley together 

with partners Caine Mazoudier and Rob Timar from Sydney’s Northern 

Beaches. Benny explained to us the idea behind the concept. 

“The idea behind 1 Love Surfing is to create a members only surf brand 

which aims at bringing together passionate surfers of all ages and skills 

who are dedicated to upholding the ethics of surfing, preserving the 

positive energy of the sport and protecting our ocean playgrounds and 

beaches. 

“Surfing isn’t just a past time to many but a way of 

life. 1 Love Surfing is about spreading the positivity 

that surfing creates, a balance of exercise and 

an appreciation of Mother Nature. We want our 

members to proudly uphold the ethics of surfing, 

respecting themselves, their fellow surfers and 

the power of the ocean. With this in mind our surf 

breaks will remain peaceful.” 

“1 Love Surfing is not a pro surfing brand nor is it for wannabes who wear 

surf labels just to be cool, it’s just for real people who love their surfing. 

1Love Surfing is not about fashion but about belonging to an exclusive 

society who share the same love for surfing. 

“Membership will be based initially on a series of qualifying questions 

related to the rules and etiquette of surfing. It is then matched to our 

limited-edition products and the availability of our affiliate partners’ 

generous discount program. There are 4 membership packages available 

that include the ‘Pitted’ package for experienced short board surfers, ‘Soul 

Defender,’ for mals, mini-mals and retro board riders, the ‘Bug’ package 

for new surfers and the ‘Feel younger’ package for the ladies. 

The one-off membership fee of $74 comprises a pack of T-shirt, stickers 

for your surfboards and car and a Member Privileges card. Benny also 

informed us of 1 Love Surfing’s intention to donate to surfing-related 

causes into the future and that they are currently supporting the Surfrider 

Foundation of Australia. 

www.1lovesurfing.com 

MEDAL HAUL 

Wondering where to stay on your 

next surf road trip through NSW? 

It’s fair to say you couldn’t go wrong 

staying at North Coast Holiday 

Parks or South Coast Holiday Parks. 

In this year alone North Beach 

at Mylestom near Coffs Harbour 

was named Best Holiday Park and 

Bermagui was selected for a special 

commendation at the Caravan and 

Camping Awards of Excellence, that’s 

on top of awards won earlier in the 

year by Corindi Beach, Lennox Head 

and Evans Head, along with several 

staff receiving accolades for their 

outstanding work and exceptional 

customer service. 

TOP: Amber Kolo, Marketing 

Team. ABOVE: NCHP North Beach, 

Managers Jack & Peggy Kelly 


SO MUCH SURF GEAR IN STORE YOU WILL BE 

AMAZED! FROM SURFBOARDS TO SKATEBOARDS, 

WETTIES, SURFWEAR AND ALL THE LATEST GADGETS 

SURFWARE 

AUSTRALIA 

BODYBOARD 

PACKS 

$196 

(INCLUDES BODYBOARD, 

FINS, COILED WRIST 

CORD) 

SUNSHINE COAST SUPERSTORE 

2 Bulcock Street, Caloundra QLD | Telephone (07) 5491 3620 

Open Mon to Sat, 9am to 5pm and Sun 9am to 4pm. Closed Christmas Day 

SURFWAREAUSTRALIA.COM 

Become part of an 

exclusive members only surf brand. 

(Surfers of all ages and skills welcome) 

Membership has its privileges: Visit www.1lovesurfing.com for details. 

Ambassadors wanted: Apply for a 1 Love Surfing Ambassadorship. 

RESPECT THE RIDE! 

WA WAVE COLOSSEUM 

Back in our Spring Edition last year we mentioned WaveGarden had 

plans for a wave park in Western Australia. Well in case you missed 

the latest news they have unveiled an ambitious $120 million proposal 

that would see WA’s home of football, Subiaco Oval, converted to an 

urban surfing village with parklands, market space, apartments and an 

artificial wave lagoon as the centrepiece. 

The Subi Surf Park idea is a joint venture between WA architects MJA 

Studio and the Wave Park Group, who hold exclusive rights to the 

development and operation of Wavegarden surf parks in Australia. Talk 

about kicking goals! And this is hot on the heels of the WaveGarden that 

opened in northern Wales, which we featured in our Spring 2015 Edition. 

www.waveparkgroup.com 

PORTRAIT PROJECT 

Noosa based photographer, 

Paul Smith’s Sunday 

Portrait Project takes 

viewers on a weekly visual 

journey of some of the 

interesting personalities 

he has photographed from 

high profile musicians 

and celebrities through to 

everyday unknowns he met 

on the street. Personalities 

include musical legends 

Robert Plant - Led Zeppelin 

and BB King; Florence & 

The Machine; controversial 

TV chef Pete Evans; 

Sportsmen Ian Thorpe and 

Steve Waugh; Surfers/ 

musicians Jack Johnson 

and Donavan Frankenreiter; 

good friend and ex-Iron- 

Man Darren Mercer, a fearsome and heavily tattooed Maori underworld 

figure; and Sydney homeless shoe-shiner, Brian. 

Yet it is his accompanying short commentaries where he shares his 

personal insights and encounters with his subjects that has enthralled his 

followers on Facebook. Paul’s Sunday Portrait Project will be exhibited 

at The J Lounge in Noosa Junction from 5 December 2015 – 31 January 

2016, 10am till 5pm. 

www.paulsmithimages.com.au 

www.facebook.com/PaulSmithImage 

22 



24 


GLEN ‘PUGS’ HARDWICK – the man behind the lens of 

lookslikeme.com.au spends a lot of his time lending a hand 

with the Gold Coast chapter of the Disabled Surfers Association 

(DSA). He gives us a little insight into the good work these great 

volunteers do in the surf. 

WORDS & PHOTOS: Pugs 

- - - 

SMILES 

ON DIALS 

Featuring Matilda Wilson [Tilly] 

- - 

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 

I first met these lovely people three years ago, 

Tilly, Andy and Angie Wilson at a DSA event at 

Currumbin. I was asked to go along and take a 

few happy snaps of the kids and adults surfing. 

Cerebral Palsy, Down Syndrome, Asperger’s, 

amputees and so on - anyone who has a 

disability you will find there. 

What caught my eye was the enjoyment and 

smiles on these kids and adults faces, it was 

just unbelievable. Looking through the lens of 

my camera brought a tear to my eye and many 

others there as well! Grown men saying to 

me ‘’How good is this, Pugs?’’ It really 

makes you realise how lucky you are. 

As we don’t have any children of our own, my 

wife Daniela (who is a Team Leader with the 

DSA) and I can’t wait for this event to come 

around. We absolutely love it! Every time we 

go, we try and take a few friends with us, the 

more the better. 

“What caught my eye 

was the enjoyment 

and smiles on these 

kids and adults 

faces, it was just 

unbelievable.” 


- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 

BELOW: 

Pugs with Tilly 

Andy and Angie are amazing people and the 

way Andy - a surfer himself - takes to the 

water with his daughter is just amazing 

to me, and many others that have enjoyed 

their smiles. She can light up a room easily. 

This event couldn’t happen without all the 

volunteers, and all you hear is how good this 

event is from the parents (who in my eyes are 

the ones who I recognise as the legends here). 

They can’t thank you enough for helping out. 

There are a few single mums there also who 

I admire immensely. It must be hard to fulfil a 

work commitment and to look after their kids 

with a disability, but they wouldn’t have it any 

other way. 

‘Smiles on Dials’ is what it is all about, and just 

a few hours on a Sunday once a month for five 

months during Spring and Summer isn’t that 

much to ask to get along and lend a hand. Trust 

me, you won’t be disappointed. 

“It must be hard 

to fulfil a work 

commitment and 

to look after 

their kids with 

a disability.” 

For more information, see www.disabledsurfers.org. 

26 


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LETTERS 


GREETINGS CARD 

“Hi there, 

I have recently built a cardboard core 

surfboard after being inspired by the article 

in a recent- 

ish 

Smorgasboarder. I 

wrote this reflection 

after completion 

and thought I would 

send it to you as a 

suggestion. I am 

not sure what the 

proper format is 

for this - as like the 

surfboard this is 

a first for me, so I 

have attached the 

article. Thanks for 

all your work on a great publication.” 

Andrew Hallett 

Check out Andrew’s unbelievable 

cardboard creation on page 68! 

REDUCE MY ODDS 

“Hi guys, the last issue you did a very detailed 

insight to the whole shark epidemic. 

As a practical statistical surfer I’d like more 

insight into how to reduce my odds. 

I know the odds are very remote given I live on 

the Sunny Coast but could you do a follow up 

article on how to reduce your odds and what 

to do if you find yourself in that situation.” 

Craig Popplewell 

Craig, we don’t know the best answer - 

we’d love to see more energy dedicated 

towards developing deterrents rather 

than comments from the peanut gallery 

saying how many people are killed 

by cows each year. Give some of the 

deterrent products a go - the striped 

wetsuit, the electrical zappers - but 

realistically, the only way to avoid it 

100% is not to surf? Possibly a bad idea. 

SHARKS WELL DONE 

“Morning Dave. Just read your thoughtful 

and well researched article on Sharks 

(Smorgasboarder Spring 2015 pp38-48). 

As one who has done ongoing research on 

sharks since 1976, increasingly so in the past 

decade, allow me to give you an unsolicited 

‘well done’. 

If the topic is ongoing, I can suggest a couple 

of additional sources, firstly Hervey Bay’s Vic 

Hislop (the Darth Vader side of the debate, but 

still is a significant point of view - certainly on 

the serious under-reporting on shark deaths 

as reported in the Australian Shark File) and 

secondly, Alan Bodycott of the Clarence River 

Fishermans Coop (who is a premier bull shark 

authority and does occasional contract work 

for the CSIRO and I think some for the DPI). 

I enjoyed the whole mag, appreciating just 

how much work you put into it to make it fly 

commercially. Bonus for me was being able to 

read up on Mike Davis via an ad he had in the 

mag - same old Mike and his former mantra 

“the best surfboards in the world” - very 

Californian prose. 

In closing, any chance of a pdf of the actual 

article? It would be accredited to you in our 

internal communication in our organisation, 

an organisation that is currently grappling 

with proactive shark strategies knowing/ 

fearing the authorities will talk-fest for as 

long as it takes, all the while allowing risk 

managers at local and state gov levels as well 

as at insurance companies to possibly kneejerk 

into expensive/unworkable solutions. 

Thanks Dave and again, brilliant overview of 

the ‘Shark Debate’. 

Jim Bradley Hon Nat. Advisor DSAA 

We first raised the topic of sharks way 

back in issue 7, 2011. Back then we 

said we wouldn’t revisit it, but with 

requests from the surfing community, we 

agreed more needed to be done to limit 

the increasing number of interactions 

between surfers and sharks. With 

another surfer bitten at Ballina as we 

go to print with this edition, bringing the 

total number of unprovoked attacks this 

year in NSW alone to 14, up from 3 in 

2014, we figure it won’t be the last time 

we discuss the men in grey suits. 

VENETIAN SWAN 

“Hi guys, Shaun (Levings, World Surfaris) 

and I thought we had spotted Dave at Venice 

Beach last 

month on 

our way 

to Central 

America. We 

had a ripper 

trip too.” 

Troy Smith 

And as I 

said to Troy 

at the time, “Get stuffed. I am way more 

buff than that guy.” 

28 


24 Christine Ave, Miami Gold Coast QLD 4220 Austalia phone: (07) 55 765 914 


! 

CONSIDER YOU HAVE DUSTED OFF AN OLD 

BOARD UNDER THE HOUSE AND WONDER 

WHAT IT IS WORTH; OR PERHAPS HAVE 

PICKED UP A DISCARDED DUNGER FROM A 

CURB SIDE COLLECTION BUT DON’T KNOW 

WHETHER IT WARRANTS RESTORING; OR YOU 

SIMPLY WANT TO KNOW A LITTLE BIT MORE 

ABOUT A CERTAIN ASPECT OF SURF HISTORY, 

WELL IN THIS REGULAR FEATURE WE HOPE TO 

PROVIDE YOU WITH THE ANSWERS. 

“he’s been collecting 

surfboards and surf 

memorabilia since the 

tender age of 5” 

So how did we come to know so much about surfboards and all 

things surf related? Well truth be told we know bugger all, so 

we cheated and called on a man known to many as “Mr Surf 

Wiki”, Andre ‘Ondi’ Marsaus. 

But who is he you may say and why on earth is everyone 

involved with this magazine bald? Well to answer the nude-nut 

question, we believe it has something to do with the size of 

one’s cerebrum. With so much brain to fit into our cranial cavity, 

no space is left for useless hair follicles. More importantly 

however, who ‘Ondi’ is, is someone we have come to know 

who has an incredible depth of knowledge for all things surf. 

We believe the reason he has a fair handle on the history of 

surfboards and those who rode them is partly due to the fact he 

appears to own nearly every board of significance. 

Yes, Ondi is a serious surf collector. Indeed he’s been collecting 

surfboards and surf memorabilia since the tender age of 5. His 

collection now spans storage facilities in Sydney, Melbourne, 

the Gold Coast and Sunshine Coast along with his Noosa 

home and business, Underground Surf Emporium and Café. His 

collection of vintage surfboards includes some estimated to be 

worth around the $20,000 mark. 

Besides his collection, Ondi is a pretty interesting character too. 

He’s only recently entered his ‘40s, but so far he’s been regarded 

as one of Australia’s top chefs, cooked for the queen, was a 

champion superbike rider and even ran his own race team. This 

was all before he turned his focus to his enduring passion for 

surfing, opening a tiny shop with his partner Maree in Kirra in 

2009 (in the old Aragorn factory, the original Kirra Surf location). 

This soon grew into Underground Surf, a retro to pro surfboard 

and surf memorabilia store in Coolangatta (which he filled with 

his own collection along with a number of new finds). The 

shop then moved to Noosa, the place of his childhood holidays 

and where he made his name as a top class chef. Pretty soon 

however they ran out of room and in July this year Underground 

moved their digs from Noosa Hill to what is now one fine and 

true “surf emporium” right on the Hastings Street strip near to 

the famed First Point. 

But enough of that, you get the gist, Ondi knows his stuff 

and if in doubt he will give you his answer to the best of 

his knowledge. Have a question you want to ask of the 

Surf Sage? Email editorial@smorgasboarder.com.au and 

we will get to it… well, we’ll get Ondi onto it. 

30 


Extra noserocker 

for 

QLD 

SURFBOARDS OF 

SIGNIFICANCE 

by Ondi Marsaus, 

Underground Surf Emporium & Cafe 

1977 

BLOCK 

LETTER MP 

SINGLE FIN 

Flamboyant 

‘70’s 

airbrishing 

Single flyer 

swallow tail 

See this board in the flesh... 

well, foam & FIBREGLASS, at 

UNDERGROUND SURF 

Upstairs 9 Hastings St, Noosa T: 07 5455 4444 

www.undergroundsurf.com.au 

1977 was the year Michael Peterson 

reappeared from a brief semi-retirement 

to record a stunning victory at the 

Stubbies Pro against finals opponent Mark 

Richards in perfect Burleigh Heads barrels 

in the first ever man-on-man pro event. 

This 1977 Block Letter MP single fin 

was made around this Stubbies period 

and was in fact one of the last boards he 

shaped in the Currumbin factory next to 

Burford Blanks. 

A classic down rail speed machine 

measuring 6’2 x 2 7 /8” x 20” with a single 

flyer swallow tail, Michael had added a 

little more nose rocker to this particular 

Block Letter model for the bigger 

Queensland summer swells. 

Glassed by Peter Evans and pinstriped 

and painted by Bill York, it’s a rare 

colourful design for an MP board. Michael 

had taken on the Joe Larkin philosophy of 

‘we don’t sell lollipops we sell surfboards’ 

and usually stuck to a single colour with 

pinline and clear deck look. You can tell 

the flamboyance of the late ‘70s was 

starting to come out and the psychedelic 

era was starting to hit where the 

airbrushes were turning on boards, panel 

vans and anything else surfers could get 

their hands on. 

This board was originally sold in the 

Michael Peterson Surfboards shop in 

Musgrave Street, Kirra (incidentally 

Musgrave Street was named after my 

ancestors, ship captains and sea going 

folk) to a surfer who rode it until the fin 

got knocked out at Burleigh in the early 

80s. He never rode it again. He said “it 

rode many a barrel over the years and if 

we wanted to look for the fin it was blue 

and could be found at the bottom of the 

ocean somewhere.” 

Purchased in 2010, it now sits proudly on 

display in the Underground Surf Emporium 

& Cafe in Hastings St Noosa. 


LATEST: FASHION 

SUMMER 

SWIMMERS 

The Xmas holidays are right 

around the corner, and what 

better stocking stuffer for the 

lovely lady in your life than a 

sexy set of swimwear? Hive 

and Dkoko have you covered 

with amazing designs for 

summer. 

Cheeky, inspired swimwear by Dkoko 

dkoko.com 

Hive make cool 

colours hot. 

hiveswimwear.com 



We say it again - fun, 

fashionable, functional and 

far more. Hive Swimwear for 

all the surf girls out there. 

hiveswimwear.com 


WHAT'S 

HOT 

FOR XMAS! 

EL NINO 

Go soft on your SUP. El Nino have 

released their new 10’4” softboard 

SUP just in time for 

the Christmas holidays! 

For $999.95, you get the board, 

an adjustable paddle and fins - An 

ideal soft surfboard for a fun and 

safe introduction to surfing 

www.elninosurf.com.au 

KAIKOURA SURF 

Very unique sunglasses have arrived 

in store. You fold the frames at 

the nose bridge and flick them on 

your wrist or wherever. Great for 

travel or bottoms of bags! UV400. 

100%protection. Just $39.99each. 

facebook.com/KaikouraSurfNz/ 

BARZ OPTICS 

Tavarua floating model – floats in fresh or salt 

water. Available with grey or amber polarised 

lenses, leash and neoprene case. 

facebook.com/Barz-Optics 

SURF LOCK 

There’s plenty of car key 

locks on the market but from 

our personal experience only 

one to consider, SURF LOCK. 

Solid, secure and unlike 

others fits a range of different 

key sizes and lasts and lasts. 

At $65 there may be 

cheaper locks around 

but none will outlast 

the SURF LOCK. 

facebook.com/ 

watershack.com.au 

BEACH BEAT 

P A C E R x Z F L E X in store at 

Beach Beat, Caloundra and 

Alexandra Headland. 

facebook.com/Beach-Beat 

34 



RIP CURL ULLADULLA 

The Tribal Myth Collection featuring a 

range of different tops, bottoms and 

coverups in store now. 

facebook.com/ripcurlulladulla 

SURFINZ 

Buying a board for your kids this Christmas? Most 

performance shortboards come with a 5-fin setup these 

days, then you have to buy the fins. Costly exercise. 

Well there is no better priced fin solution to get your 

groms into a thruster, quad or 5 fin set up, all in 1 

nifty little pack for only $79.99. And these aren’t some 

cheap flexi nylon ones, they are stiff carbon composite 

performance fins. 

facebook.com/watershack.com.au 

CRONULLA AND BONDI 

STANDUP PADDLEBOARD SHOP 

Experienced and expert coaches are in store to 

guide you the whole way on what board and paddle 

would suit you best making sure you make the 

right purchase. We have great SUP packages for 

Christmas including this one from Liquid Shredder. 

facebook.com/Bondi-Standup-Paddleboard- 

Shop-School 

facebook.com/CronullaSUP 

SURFWARE 

AUSTRALIA 

We’ve got the perfect all-rounder 

for groms right through to bigger 

guys this summer right here in 

store. Mt Woodgee’s Trademark 

model. Flat deck, single double 

concave, 5fin set up. Good paddler, 

fast and loose, 2.1/8” tail rocker 

and 5” nose rocker. Medium rails. 

Single flyer swallow. 

facebook.com/ 

surfwareaustralia 

36 


NATURAL NECESSITY 

Make your home smell amazing with the new 

Urban Rituelle range available in store now - 

the heady scent of frangipani, a sweet splash 

of juicy berries and just a kiss of wild jasmine. 

facebook.com/naturalnecessity 

RARE SURF TEES 

Four famous vintage brands spanning 

four decades all new to the Rare Surf 

Tees range. The perfect Xmas gift! 

facebook.com/Rare-Surf-Tees- 

Vintage-Surf-Apparel 


GREAT 

FAMILY 

SURF ESCAPES 

LEAVING FOR THE NEST 

A chance to escape from it all… boards on the roof, ready to explore an uncrowded break far, far away – it’s what many of us crave come this time 

of year when work and family festive commitments go into crazy mode. It’s nice to know however that you can still get away from it all without 

having to traverse half the globe. HAWK’S NEST is just 2 ½ hours drive north of Sydney but seemingly an entire world away. 

THE WAVES 

Surf wise it can be fickle but my 

goodness when conditions are 

right…. There’s a long stretch 

of beach here with varied peaks 

and one unbelievable left a little 

further on. It’s a mix of beachies 

and powerful reefs but you need 

a 4WD to fully explore it. Best 

mid tide with a SE swell and NE 

wind but it is quite open to a 

range of swell directions. Further 

north there’s Treachery Head, 

which has a reputation for solid 

swells with good reason. 

FISHING 

You are spoiled for choice with 

the beach, Port Stephens and the 

Myall River all on your doorstep 

and plenty of spots to fish from 

including boat ramps and jetties. 

Catch includes the likes of mullet, 

tailor, salmon and sometimes 

even bream or blackfish. 

Have you 

packed yet? 

We have! 

WHAT ELSE? 

Take in the laidback nature of 

the place, stroll the shops, cafes 

and art galleries of Hawks Nest 

and the adjoining town of Tea 

Gardens. You will no doubt spot 

the odd koala or two along the 

way. A must is the trail that 

follows along Jimmys Beach to 

Yacaaba Head. The walk to the 

top is a two-hour round trip but 

rewards you with an amazing 

view over Hawks Nest, Tea 

Gardens and Port Stephens. 

There’s also endless wilderness 

walking trails to the north 

of town in the Myall Lakes 

National Park. 

Hawks Nest Golf Club is only 

a two-minute meander from 

North Coast Holiday Parks 

Hawks Nest. Other than that you 

can hire a kayak or tinnie and 

explore the extensive waterways 

in the region. 

NORTH COAST 

HOLIDAY PARKS 

HAWKS NEST 

BEACH & JIMMYS 

BEACH 

Visitors to Hawks Nest have the 

choice of two fantastic North 

Coast Holiday Parks, Hawks Nest 

Beach and Jimmys Beach, less 

than a kilometre apart. Both offer 

facilities for camping, caravans/ 

motorhomes and cabins. Hawks 

Nest is located right beside 

Bennetts Beach, the main surfing 

beach, while Jimmys Beach 

has the added attraction of 

“glamping” (it’s a new word I 

have picked up) – luxury beach 

tents with a verandah and all the 

mod-cons. 

northcoastholidayparks.com.au 

Photos: North Coast Holiday Parks, Tom Woods 

38 



LATEST: TRAVEL 

KIW 

40 


ONPI 

IS 

Four intrepid NZ surf explorers make their 

way to the southern surf paradise that is Phillip 

Island. Jim Culley reports on the adventure. 

Words and photos: Jim Culley / Jimages.co.nz 

Thick rain drums against a rapidly fogging windscreen. I reach 

to my left and begin blindly hammering and flicking knobs in the 

hope of flooding our vehicle with conditioned air and clarifying 

my hazed perception. Along the border of our path a line of shrubs 

shudder against a ferocious gale, their frenzied dance mirrored 

by an animated conversation across the row of seats behind me. 

And here we are, two surfers, a photographer and a filmmaker, 

stuffed between board bags and photography equipment in a 

metal can. Enthusiastically we pick apart the favourable swell 

forecast, contemplating the likelihood we will soon be indulging 

our appetite for flawless waves in a foreign land. 


“Wait a minute?” 

I mumble under my breath, assuming 

the rain would mask my uncertainty. 

“What’s up bro?” Apparently Andy (our filmmaker and self-confessed 

hipster degenerate) had caught my musing and was now facing me, 

his thick eyebrows arching above a pair of imitation Ray bans. 

“Well cuz, it appears we have taken a wrong turn.” (By we I really 

meant I, but I wasn’t quite ready to concede that). 

Having driven our intended route many times in the preceding 

years, it had suddenly dawned on me that in an admirable attempt 

to multi-task, I had veered off-course about an hour ago and we 

were now heading straight for New South Wales. 

“Hey look, a café. Anyone keen on a coffee?” 

With the crews’ attention swiftly redirected, I buy myself enough 

time to consult with Google maps and place our rental back on 

the correct heading. A further ten minutes and we were weaving 

through forgotten countryside towards our salty friend. Caffeinated 

confidence. Four Kiwis, each from a different corner of Aotearoa, 

with Australia’s wave drenched southern coastline at our 

fingertips… Well almost. 

Gradually my eyelids peel open. The blank canvas surrounding 

me dissipates as gently swaying blinds filter remnants of light 

from a distant street lamp into my room. I shift my head towards 

the fluorescence and notice the window is slightly ajar. An icy 

breeze funnels through the slender gap, causing a collection of 

coat hangers above me to rattle. We tremble in unison. Squinting 

now, I am able to read the narrow hands of a wall-mounted clock; 

the rooms only accessory. Any tropical climate would warrant 

movement at this hour, but it’s bloody freezing, so instead I tuck 

my legs into my chest and attempt to return to sleep. Suddenly I 

become aware of a familiar sound echoing in the distance, coming 

in bursts, perhaps five or six seconds apart. Instinct immediately has 

me upright. I clasp the corners of my sleeping bag in both hands and 

hop with earnest down the thin corridor towards the lounge. 

“JC, Harrison, you lads awake?” They would be now as I had used 

my outside voice. 

“Ahhh yeah bro, what time is it?” JC croaks from beneath his 

blanket. 

“5.30, time for breaky and barrels,” I reply in the most enthusiastic 

tone I can muster. 

“Hell yeah!” exclaims a suddenly wide-awake Harrison. Now all I 

have to do is summon our resident hipster… 

An hour later and sunlight reveals our options for the day. From 

the comfort of our balcony we witness turquoise swells flowing 

towards a shallow reef before refracting into a single source of 

energy and finally detonating as thick short barrels. Today’s first 

decision is going to be an easy one. 

42 



“we witness turquoise swells 

flowing towards a shallow 

reef before refracting into a 

single source of energy and 

finally detonating as thick 

short barrels.” 


“The boys are still 

in their wetsuits, perhaps eager 

to get back in the water despite 

the bleak conditions.” 

“That’s our spot, boys!” My enthusiasm sees a 

mouthful of muesli sprinkle across the lawn ten 

feet below. Harrison looks up from his computer 

screen back in the lounge, “High tide’s in an 

hour,” he yells through the open door. 

“Sweet bro, that gives us roughly four hours 

before the ledge becomes too shallow to surf.” 

I’m cramming in spoonfuls of chewy oats like 

there’s no tomorrow. Enough of this sideline act, 

time to indulge. 

With youthful exuberance Harrison slips into his 

wetsuit, flashes me a wry grin, and darts down 

the winding wooden ramp towards the sea. JC 

is content to wait while I load my camera into its 

water-housing and Andy complacently puts away 

his third cigarette of the morning. 

“She’s an interesting wave JC.” 

I’ve shot here once before and feel the need to 

share my viewpoint. He turns to face me with 

a cheeky grin. I interpret his response as an 

invitation to elaborate, but something causes 

me to stop in my tracks. I’m now aware of Andy’s 

decision to dress in knee high socks and velcro 

sandals for our trek across the spongy sand and 

slippery boulders. Momentarily transfixed by this 

odd selection of footwear, I leave my companion 

in the conversational lurch. Still shaking my head 

I turn back to resume speaking only to notice 

JC has also become fixated on those sandals. A 

fashion faux pas straight from the nineties, along 

with their multi-coloured heel buckles (a safety 

accessory that Andy has taken full advantage 

of). JC and I laugh in unison. Andy simply shrugs, 

hoists a weighty pack onto his back and together 

we make our way towards the beckoning waves. 

Our first session is cut short as rolling storm 

clouds bring an onshore change that transforms 

the line-up to a giant swirl of capping windswells. 

Walking back to the warmth of our vehicle 

we pass a flock of juvenile seabirds huddled in 

a small circle, their feet poked into the shifting 

sand like stilts, their heads resembling dark 

dollops of fluffy mousse just waiting to be licked 

off by the wind. With eyes pressed shut they 

appear content in their harsh surroundings. I get 

changed as quick as I can. Pulling the final layer 

of wool over my head I leap into the driver’s seat, 

where a wave of optimism floods over me. 

“Not a bad start aye boys?” Silence...I try a 

different approach. 

“How’s the water compare to Dunedin guys?” I 

watch as Harrison rubs his palms together in 

front of the SUV’s heater before lifting his head 

to respond. 

“Yeah, it’s warm bro! That wave’s pretty sick.” 

Glancing in the rear vision mirror I notice that 

cheeky grin flash across JC’s face again as he 

continues tapping his iPhone. The boys are still 

in their wetsuits, perhaps eager to get back in 

the water despite the bleak conditions. I decide 

to test my theory. 

“There’s a bay down the road that may have a 

semi-sheltered wave…”. 

The car hums to life and we start moving again. 

Over the course of the short drive I found myself 

still thinking about those damn birds. I wondered 

how long they had been living here and if they 

would migrate soon? Then I thought about us. As 

wandering artists we spend the days in search of 

a canvas on which to paint, experiences to share, 

moments to capture. We cling to those moments 

of sunshine and reluctantly weather the storms 

in-between. Just as I was beginning to confuse 

the hell out of myself, I recall the value of living 

for the present. Returning my full attention to the 

road, I notice the car swaying slightly. 

“Hopefully that offshore hits this evening and 

cleans up the swell for the dawnie.” 

An optimistic musing given the forecast 

nevertheless. A chorus of grunts signal my 

message has reached its intended recipients, all 

three still fixated on their phones. 

We spend the afternoon chasing ramps across a 

short stretch of beach until our legs grow weak 

and our stomachs crave sustenance. Unplugging 

my headphones I see I have missed a call from our 

host. Two weeks earlier I contacted Sandy Ryan to 

let him know we would be in the neighbourhood. 

His response was to offer us full use of his 

house for the week while it was waiting to be 

replaced by a new structure. The gesture in itself 

is a testament to the generous nature of the man, 

given we had never formally met. I immediately 

call my voicemail. “Yeh Jem, eets Sandy maaate. 

Oh I hope you lads got out there before the wend 

44 





swetched! Look you guys have to come round for 

denna. Geve us a bell mate.” I listen to the message 

twice to ensure I have interpreted correctly through 

the thick Aussie accent then convey the good news 

to the boys. 

Over dinner Sandy informs us he has just returned 

from Western Australia where he has been towsurfing 

fifteen foot death pits at ‘The Right’. He speaks 

rather nonchalantly when describing the location (as if 

it is just another reef break offering up a hearty barrel) 

then goes into specific detail regarding one particular 

wave he had whipped into only to see a twelvefoot 

left coming back towards him. The lads listen 

attentively while devouring spaghetti bolognese 

with ‘Kelly Slater in Black and White’ playing on the 

plasma in the background. Suddenly Sandy looks up 

from his meal like a possum caught in headlights. 

“Hey do you lads wanna see some of the pecs from 

West Aus?” 

For the next ten minutes we sit in silence, our brains 

processing the images on display. I spend the rest of 

the evening thinking how well Sandy understated his 

earlier retelling of events. 

The new day is perfect blue. In the distance the sky 

meets sea like similar shades merging on an artists 

palette. The mood in the kitchen is jovial and upbeat 

as we shovel down mouthfuls of scrambled egg and 

“The 

gesture in 

itself is a 

testament 

to the 

generous 

nature of 

the man.” 

46 


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“The new day is 

perfect blue. 

In the distance 

the sky meets 

sea like 

similar shades 

merging on 

an artists 

palette.” 

wholegrain toast, while considering the picture 

we might paint today. I close my eyes and gently 

press my head against a glass window. I hear 

Sandy’s voice repeating the words he left us 

with last night, ‘head east towards the open 

beaches lads. The wend and swell should be 

perfect’. We arrive to find the car park already 

full and decide this is enough of a sign to avoid 

multiple trips by lugging our gear across the 

dunes on the first run. Trudging upward through 

the sand, my feet sink with each step and my 

calves begin to burn, until we finally reach the 

summit of a sun-drenched dune. Hoots all-round 

as the boys watch four to six foot barrels slam 

sporadically against shallow sand. They waste 

no time suiting up. 

Watching as sessions unfold through a lens it 

quickly becomes apparent who is having an on 

day and who is having an off day. Your typical 

on day can be compared to riding an escalator 

in a continuous and fluid circle, while an off 

day is more like wading through a crowd of 

people to reach a lift that takes forever to 

arrive, then breaks down with you inside. Over 

the course of the next three hours I watch as 

the locals dominate the shifting peaks. With 

wash through sets and more rips than a nineties 

grunge rockers jeans, scratching into a good 

peak depends entirely on positioning. The locals 

have the place dialled and seem to be plugged 

into some external force that leads them to ‘the 

spot’ time and time again. 

By lunchtime the sun is at full blaze. Andy and 

I have been tucked into the corner of a steep 

dune, shirts over our heads and sweating 

bullets for a few hours now, so I decide to 

48 



Keep your goods dry wherever you are 

50 



have a dig at swimming the joint 

for a water angle. I watch as 

another clan of locals dart down 

the beach to enter the line-up by 

way of one of the more consistent 

rips and, having done this many 

times before, decide to follow 

suit. Forty-five minutes later and 

I’m squatting next to Andy back 

on the dune, refreshed but slightly 

pissed off. As the tide changed so 

too did my rip; rapidly transforming 

into a swirling current of confused 

water determined to confine me 

to the limbo between beach and 

barrels. After forty-five minutes 

swimming across the beach I meet 

with Harrison who was making his 

way in for some lunch. He offers 

me a tow. Apparently I was having 

an off day. 

We spend the next few days 

locked in routine. After dinner 

each night we scan the updated 

weather forecast and tide charts 

before deciding where to surf 

in the morning. If the winds are 

light and offshore we head east, 

if not we have another dig at 

our opponent out front. Rising 

before daybreak we cram as much 

caffeine and whole-foods into our 

bodies as possible, then surf until 

our stomachs groan and muscles 

reach fatigue. Apart from putting 

us in the best possible waves 

with enough energy to burn, 

our schedule provides us with 

something constant to fall back on 

when things don’t quite go to plan. 

On one of these mornings Sandy 

escapes from work and joins us on a 

now routine pilgrimage to the slab. 

He takes the lead as we navigate 

glistening boulders under the 

moonlight, slowing only to ensure 

we are keeping pace. Reaching the 

shoreline I gingerly wade through 

oily black liquid until it reaches 

my waist. After filling my lungs 

with air, I reluctantly submerge. 

Pushing under the first breaker I 

feel like a huge rubber starfish. 

With zero visibility underwater I 

can only sense the jagged rocks 

ominously close at hand. Above 

the surface my eyes filter more and 

more light with every stroke until I 

am able to make out three figures 

reaching the take-off spot; two 

quit paddling while one continues 

on, deeper into the line-up. I 

assume this is Sandy taking 

priority and chuckle to myself. Fair 

enough, the guy practically owns 

the joint. He doesn’t stop there. 

After a further ten strokes he 

finally takes to sitting on his board 

in-line with a dangerous looking 

kelp-covered boulder; an object 

that had recently hosted Harrison 

before a set wave forcibly ejected 

him into a foot of water. Opting 

to shoot with a fisheye lens this 

morning I reposition myself close 

enough to the rock to touch it, the 

arms of swaying kelp brushing 

against my back and swim-fins. 

Given that Sandy has spent years 

honing his tube-riding skills on 

this wave, eventually making a 

name for himself as one of the 

world’s premiere slab-hunters, my 

expectations are justifiably high. 

Looking towards the horizon I spot 

the first set of the day approaching. 

Meanwhile as if on cue, a curtain 

of light envelops the line-up with 

a golden aura. Sandy swings, 

takes two smooth strokes and 

glides into a perfect barrel. JC and 

Harrison reposition themselves, 

deeper now, but not quite as deep 

as Sandy had been sitting. The 

remainder of the morning is spent 

waiting for another wave to hit the 

same section of the reef. It never 

comes. 

As our excursion draws to an end 

we have time for one last session. 

The boys have become familiar 

with the slabs subtle nuances and 

have been positioning themselves 

pretty close to a section of the 

ledge we have come to refer 

to as ‘Sandy’s’. However this 

time is different. It’s almost 

dead low tide and each wave 

breaks precariously close to the 

unforgiving ocean floor. Given the 

tide the line-up is swarming with 

a pack of seasoned body boarders, 

each taking turns free-falling over 

the ledge and sliding through thick 

tubes. Sandy waits his turn until 

he reaches the front of the queue, 

settles himself, and for the next 

half hour becomes a statue in the 

sea. As the sun tilts westward he 

continually ignores each passing 

swell, clearly content to ride the 

wave of the day or nothing at all. 

JC and Harrison sit wider on this 

occasion, opting to unload power 



52 


hacks on a more forgiving second section. Eventually Sandy begins 

fidgeting with a GoPro he paddled out with. Then, without warning, his 

attention suddenly shifts from the recording device. The body boarders 

are deep in conversation and oblivious the rogue swell now only metres 

away. Sandy appears to be sitting way too deep and from where I’m 

positioned doesn’t stand a chance of making the wave. He doesn’t 

appear to agree. Paddling hard he stands on a section of water barely 

three-feet tall, while five metres down the line the same swell is five 

feet and already jacking up. Biting down hard on the strategically placed 

GoPro he begins madly pumping on the front section of his board. Still 

behind the peak he calls upon years of experience and gently immerses 

a single row of fingertips into liquid. The wave becomes a beautiful oval 

eye. The sheer volume of turquoise water throwing over Sandy’s head 

is immense, yet he remains poised and focused. I watch on through my 

viewfinder as the edges of his mouth curve upwards; only a hint of a 

smile as he continues to clasp the camera between his teeth. Seconds 

later the surfer is spat from the barrel directly in front of the kiwis. 

“Bloody hell Sandy, that thing was nuts!” 

JC quickly states the obvious. Sandy plucks the GoPro from between 

his jaws… 

“Yeh maate, eet was alreght.” 

The boys would like to thank our gracious host Sandy Ryan of Island 

Surfboards as well as O’Neill NZ for making the trip possible. 


THE 

CRIBB 

Many know of Rob Cribb, or 

indeed know him well. Rob 

made a name for himself as a 

top-notch surfer through the 

‘80s and ‘90s before cutting his 

teeth launching a then tiny little 

brand you may have heard of 

before called FCS. 

I recently had the great pleasure 

of catching up with Rob to talk 

about surfing, family, his history 

in the industry and his latest 

business interests. 

WORDS: Dave Swan 

PHOTOS: Supplied courtesy of Rob Cribb 

I am keen to know a little more about 

where you grew up and learnt to surf. 

I believe you hail from Northern NSW but 

don’t know where exactly. 

I grew up in Evans Head, was schooled in Ballina 

and spent my entire youth surfing between 

Lennox (Head) and Angourie… Not bad choices. 

In terms of the professional ranks, I am 

aware you were right up with Australia’s 

best in the 80s and 90s. How high on the 

world tour rankings did you get? 

I had decent results as an amateur and had a 

go at some pro-events but competing was never 

really my thing. I’d either get the highest score 

of the heat or the lowest. I never really grew up 

hassling for waves, which sort of came across 

in my attitude in heats, as a result I’d get wiped 

by the Gold Coast and Sydney frothers used 

to hassling for every wave. I didn’t have the 

mongrel in me that was required to constantly 

win heats. Back then it was 4 to the beach, 

quantity over quality and it created too much 

ugliness in my surfing style. It wasn’t until I 

spent many years in Hawaii (from drawing 

out bigger turns on bigger boards) that I felt 

comfortable with my own style. 

I have read of your ‘go-for-broke’ attitude 

to surfing. What feats do you believe saw 

you acquire this label? 

That’s why I always got the highest or lowest 

score (laughs). My dad and uncle were the keen 

surfers in my family but who knows where your 

traits come from. At an early age I just wanted 

to have a go whether it was Evans (Head) bar, 

Lennox or Angourie, regardless of the size. 

As a teenager I did a trip to G-Land with Barton 

Lynch and Jay Adams (RIP mate). We scored 

epic waves for a couple weeks and pretty much 

had the line up to ourselves…. then BL and I met 

up a couple weeks later with Shane Bevan and 

54 


“LIVING ON OAHU 

FOR HALF OF MY LIFE, 

THERE WAS PLENTY OF 

SESSIONS THAT GOT 

THE HEART BEATING 

ACROSS THE ISLAND 

CHAIN.” 

LATEST: LOCAL 

Jay Phillips. The 4 of us scored solid perfection 

at Padang Padang by ourselves. I came back 

from that trip with one thing in mind that was 

far from contests. Hawaii was all I wanted to 

know about from that day on and all I wanted to 

do was push as hard as I could in solid waves 

like Haleiwa, Sunset and Off The Wall. 

What’s the biggest/ scariest wave you 

have ever ridden? 

My first house I ever purchased was right in front 

of Ali’i beach so I used to surf Haleiwa a lot. I 

definitely miss that wave. I don’t know many 

people that wouldn’t claim big Haleiwa as one 

of the North Shore’s heaviest waves, especially 

when it’s over 8ft. It just constantly folds in on 

itself creating some major hold-downs. Over 

12ft it’s another level… Adrenaline overload 

with excitement and fear at the same time. 

Living on Oahu for half of my life, there was 

plenty of sessions that got the heart beating 

across the island chain. Shaun Briley was 

responsible for many scary sessions I had on 

the outer-reefs but a few early morning lonely 

sessions at Haleiwa with wash-through sets 

from Avalanche probably top the list for the 

scariest. 

The biggest swell here in Australia? 

I saw you tackled some crackers at 

Currumbin in 2012. 

Nothing like what you see the crew nowadays 

charging at Shippies and The Right etc. Just 

some big tow days at the Alley is probably 

it. Pre Hawaii I had some solid stuff in WA 

and some NSW spots I shouldn’t mention - 

my parents had a long lining business. I 

worked with my dad on the boat for a couple 

years and we ended up docking for weeks in 

some very convenient ports along the NSW 

coastline. 

What was behind your climb up the 

corporate ladder in the surf industry? 

FCS, Gorilla Grip, Jet Pilot, Excel. 

You have certainly achieved a lot. 

Thanks, yeah I feel like I’ve achieved a lot. It 

came with a lifetime in the industry, working 

hard, living what I preach and being honest with 

people. 

Once I made the move to Hawaii, I knew the 

only contests I would do would be the Triple 

Crown, this was 10 years before the opportunity 

was there for guys to even consider making a 

living from surfing big waves was possible…. 

but I had a beautiful woman with a beautiful 

family and the North Shore as my backyard. 

Being anywhere else wasn’t an option so I 

decided to start a Hawaiian sales agency 

with some Australian brands, one brand being 

Gorilla Grip. Shortly after, Bill McCausland 

(founder of Gorilla Grip) called me about this 

new detachable system they acquired called 

Fin Control Systems. Upon flying to Australia I 


instantly saw the future of surfboards and 

flew back with a board bag full of metal 

install jigs, bags of milled fibreglass (little 

white powder in ziplock bags caused 

several hassles with Hawaiian customs), 

one very ordinary fin template and a 

bunch of little black plugs. 

Living on the North Shore I was obviously 

surrounded by some of the best shapers 

and surfers in the world, shapers such 

as Jeff Bushman, Pat Rawson, Nelson 

Sadoy, Dick Brewer, Glen Minami 

and Ben Aipa. All were very open for 

experimentation from an early stage, 

likewise for surfers such as the late 

Mark Foo, Sunny, Kaipo Jaquias, Pancho 

Sullivan and Tom Carroll. 

It was a classic as in the first 2 years 

there were no manufacturers with install 

kits, so all the shapers would bring their 

boards around and pay me to install the 

plugs, likewise for pros. They’d bring 

favourite boards to me and I’d grind off 

the glass-ons and install FCS. It was all 

done in my backyard at Sunset and that is 

where FCS started in America. 

I’ll never forget the day when Sunny just 

returned back to Oahu from winning his 

first Bells (Beach) event. This ‘Haole’ 

Australian took a grinder to the fins of his 

Blue Hawaii winning board with Sunny 

and his shaper, Glen Minami, watching 

my every move…no slipping with the 

grinder that day and that was the start of 

Sunny with FCS. By the end of that year 

we had over 30 of the top 44 switching to 

a removable fin system. 

At the time, Hawaii was the epicentre 

of global surfing, especially for surfing 

hardware brands and if a product couldn’t 

be accepted in Hawaii, it wasn’t going 

to succeed anywhere. Myself and Bill 

were very aware of that. I saw a great 

opportunity and so I put my heart and 

soul into changing an industry, from only 

glassed-on fins to what we now see 

today 25 years later. 

Throughout the early to mid 90s, the 

shapers of the world would come to 

the North Shore and start noticing the 

changes I was making with these little 

black plugs. Bill believed in me and we 

th 

opened the first international FCS office. Several seasons 

later we opened in the US mainland. 

For the next decade I maintained 95% market share 

throughout the Hawaiian Islands and was dedicated to the 

innovation of surfing hardware and fin design. They were 

definitely exciting days being at the forefront of the historical 

development in fin design such as Kelly’s K2.1, specialised 

Jaws Tow Fins for Kalama, the R&D of the original award 

winning H2 fins, along with the original signature fins with 

Pat Rawson, Rusty, TC and so on... Eventually new ownership 

came into play and the time was right to move on. My wife 

and I had our first child and made the decision to start the 

next chapter of our life in Australia. 

Upon relocating to Oz I helped Mike Stewart re-designed 

his Science bodyboard brand and managed the national 

marketing for Jet Pilot, primarily to help build Jet Pilot into 

the Australian surf market. A year later Derek O’Neill (former 

CEO - Billabong International) was well aware with what 

56 


e CRIBB 

I did for FCS and along with Ed Dascoli (founder of Xcel ), 

knew I was the right guy for Billabong’s newly acquired 

Hawaiian wetsuit brand ‘Xcel ’. Due to Xcel’s watersports 

and outdoor diversity it was really a brand I could relate 

to on a personal level. I ran this company nationally for 

several years. 

LATEST: LOCAL 

Cannon on a foamie. Photo: Ricky Luv 

How did you come to meet Leiona? Living and working on 

the North Shore no doubt? 

We actually met a couple years before I moved there permanently, 

a night out on the North Shore led to everything my life would 

become… That was almost 25yrs ago ! 

What was it like living on the North Shore? 

You kidding me? It was a sensational period in my life I could only 

dream of and will forever be grateful for. A grom from Evans Head all 

of a sudden married to a born and raised North Shore girl. For over 

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58 


LATEST: LOCAL 

RIGHT: Dad as gondolier 

for daughter, Kiana. 

BELOW: Kiana as a 

mermaid and surfer 

“AS PARENTS, YOU 

SELFISHLY LOVE TO 

SEE YOUR KIDS LIVING 

YOUR OWN LIFESTYLE 

SO GETTING THEM 

COMFORTABLE IN 

THE WATER WAS A 

NO-BRAINER AND IS 

SOMETHING THEY BOTH 

LOVE TO DO.” 

a decade I was regularly surfing and working 

with the entire professional tour and the biggest 

shapers in the world. 

Leiona has obviously got a passion 

for the ocean too? 

Leiona was born in a house on the beach at 

Rocky Point in the ‘70s. Her older brother 

Rush Randle was one of the highest rated 

windsurfers and part of the ‘strapped’ Maui 

crew who launched foil-boarding, tow-surfing 

and kiting to the world. Still to this day Leiona 

is a passionate surfer, these days loving long 

boarding the Gold Coast points and SUPing our 

beautiful waterways. 

Both your love for the water has no doubt 

rubbed off on the kids? 

As parents, you selfishly love to see your 

kids living your own lifestyle so getting them 

comfortable in the water was a no-brainer and 

is something they both love to do. However 

Leiona and I are also both believers of allowing 

them the opportunity to live their own lives as 

opposed to being parents that try to live their 

own lives through their children. We push 

education first and are very proud of their 

academic achievements. Outside of school we 

try to keep them outdoors as much as possible. 

Regularly our days are going where they want 

to go, whether it be skateparks or to the beach 

with a longboard, shortboard, surf mat, foamy, 

SUP or bodyboard. We let them ride what they 

want to ride - what will give them the most fun 

on each day. 

Cannon is now 11 and has the natural ability to 

ride them all well. Kiana is now 8 and always 

chooses the surf mat and the foamy… She’s our 

little shaka-throwing cruiser and we love it. 

What was the idea behind forming 

WaterShack? (The company Rob and 

Leiona currently run) 

I’ve always been open to a variety of 

watersports such as Surfing, SUP, kiting, general 

paddlesports etc. Living in Hawaii, your life 

evolves around swell and wind. For a decade 

I probably kite surfed as much as I surfed (in the 


BELOW: Mini-Cribbs, 

Kiama and Cannon 

are waterbabies, 

through and through. 

early days using tow boards and 2 line kites with zero safety equipment 

so a lot of time was spent in trees and fixing bladders). 

I knew of many global watersport brands that didn’t have distribution in 

Australia. I envisioned a company that stayed diverse across the variety 

of watersports I was always passionate about, which is why I wanted to 

use the word ‘Water’ somewhere. 

I was surfing with a mate who got a little barrel and he said, “I got shacked”. 

We reside in what we call our ‘shack’ on Currumbin Creek so WaterShack 

was formed. That was 5yrs ago and both Leiona and I have since then built 

a consistent importing / wholesaling business that includes the Aquaglide 

brand of Inflatable Waterparks along with many successful watersports/ 

general marine and outdoor accessories which consists of Ecoxgear 

Waterproof Speakers, Paqua Waterproof cases and Vestpac Hydration 

for paddlesports, Puka Patch instant ding repair & Rail Tape, general 

watersports / outdoor /marine accessories such as Beachwheels, Ouch 

Spray, Island Tribe Sunscreen, Surf Jimmy wetsuit bag, Surf Lock, MyGo 

and Finger Grip Boardracks. Then there’s Surfinz fins and adjustable fin 

system, along with Scarfini Fins and Cheyne Horan’s Starfin. We also just 

secured the Australian distribution of Surf Organic. We’re very excited 

to be representing this environmentally-focused Australian surf company 

that produce not just an epic wax that is 100% manufactured from a 

blend of renewable ingredients (main ingredient being soy wax), but they 

employ a no plastic policy by only using recycled packaging materials for 

their waxes, tail pads and candles. They are also a supporter of Surfrider 

Foundation and 1% of all profits go to the 1% For The Planet Foundation. 

Rob and I continually cross paths along the Australian coastline as 

he distributes surf gear for Watershack and I deliver Smorgasboarder 

magazines. He’s a fascinating bloke with an incredible story, and he has 

one amazing surfing family as well. You can also further understand 

why I’m keen to stay good mates with him - so we can continue to keep 

testing the incredible surf gear he distributes! 

For more on Rob’s day-job, see www.watershack.com.au 

60 


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Queen of Tides 

Áine 

Tyrrell 

Musician. Surfer. Mother. Dreamer 

As told to Cameron Fergus Photos supplied, courtesy of Àine Tyrrell 

The ocean is never far from my mind. 

I was raised near the coast, on Ireland’s windy western 

shores. Sheer cliffs and a wild, cold sea. Surfing didn’t 

have much of a hold there when I was growing up. 

That’s changed now though. A few big waves off the 

Irish coast have caught the surfing world’s attention 

and now you’ll see some boards on roofs from time to 

time - people who’ve picked up surfing from friends or 

have brought the stoke back from their wanderings in 

other parts of the world. 

Surfing in Ireland is about as different from Australia 

as you can imagine. It’s not a relaxed, sit back on your 

board gazing at the horizon scenario. No dry-hairpaddle-outs. 

You’re not looking back at sand dunes 

running into the coastal scrub, or palm trees stretching 

into a cloudless blue sky. More often than not you’re 

staring at huge cliff faces and the tide slipping back to 

reveal jagged black rocks awaiting the fool who dares 

bring flesh and fiberglass within reach. Coming in from 

a session off the Irish coast isn’t so much about being 

surf-stoned and feeling at one with Mother Nature, 

it’s more about survival and a sense that you’ve put 

one over on her wildness. Maybe that’s why some of 

my most memorable surf sessions have been at home. 

It’s a mission just to get to the break - through fields, 

down cobbled roads, along muddied farm access 

lanes, often in rain, sleet or even snow. Then you just 

hope the wind, which is ever-present, is offshore or 

close enough to it. But when it gets good - and it’s 

hardly ever consistently good – you feel truly blessed, 

to be one of the precious few in receipt of the North 

Atlantic’s greatest treat. 

All that is half a world away of course. But it’s only 

geography, merely a few oceans beyond. I’ve been 

in Australia for four years now. My littlies and I are 

nomads. Wanderers. We live in a big old 1966 Bedford 

62 


LATEST: LOCAL 

“THE OCEAN 

IS NEVER FAR 

FROM 

MY MIND.” 

Photo: Jesse Leaman 


Photo: Heidi Atkins 

bus, packed with all the stuff - toys, schoolbooks, 

boards, bikes, instruments – that we need for this 

journey that we’re on. We travel, I play gigs, and we 

learn together – Australia is a wondrous open book 

full of lessons, opportunities and adventures to us. 

Home, in the sense that we understand it, is the road, 

as well as some special places we’ve found on the 

way. They’re mostly so different to our Irish home, 

but then, in certain moments, in a certain light, no 

different at all, particularly in south-western Victoria 

where there’s literally Irish blood in the stones. 

It wasn’t always this way. A conventional life – a 

mortgage, four walls, and the old nine-to-five - isn’t 

that far in my past. But it took an almighty upheaval 

to lay my life bare before me, cracked all things wide 

open, and from out of the chasm I could hear my true 

self shouting at me to do the things that I must. Write. 

Play music. Perform. Those things I know and love 

best, that bring me the greatest joy, and allow me a 

way to mark out my space in the world, to connect 

with like-minded souls around me. And surf of course. 

Ride the waves that bless the coasts of my adopted 

island home. The bus was the vessel that made all of 

this possible, it unshackled me from my past – and a 

direction that was not my destiny – and set my little 

hearts and I on our path. 

It’s easy to see where the ocean has washed its way 

through my songs. Not just in the lyrical images of 

dark water, pirate queens, the swells and the salt, but 

also in rhythms that follow the ebb and flow of the 

tides. On the most blessed of days, a song will come 

to me as I surf, complete - words, melody, rhythm - as 

if it has been out there all along, drifting about in the 

bay, waiting for the right tide to come ashore. But 

other songs are more stubborn and stay out in the 

deep, refuse to be dredged up no matter how hard 

I pull. Maybe they are destined to rust away down 

there, or perhaps they’re just not for me. 

Maybe it’s that first duck dive that inspires this 

creativity. The cold water activating the mammalian 

dive reflex, slowing the heart rate, forcing me to relax, 

so that when the wave has passed and I return to the 

surface I do so in that altered state. Or perhaps it’s 

the vastness of that open space. Sitting up on my 

board, legs dangling beneath, looking at the horizon 

and seeing endlessness. Or endless possibilities. 

Surfing is for me almost a meditation, a way to reduce 

all things to their essence, down to only that which 

is most important – water, body, breath – a practice 

that is so much like the act of writing a new song. 

At the heart of it, songwriting too offers endless 

Ái 

Photo: Nikole Ramsay 

64 


“IT’S EASY TO 

SEE WHERE THE 

OCEAN HAS 

WASHED ITS 

WAY THROUGH 

MY SONGS.” 

LATEST: LOCAL 

ne 

Tyrrel 

Photo: Pete Conway 


LATEST: LOCAL 

possibilities, that same huge, unbounded canvas on which something 

new might be crafted. A surge of creativity, the discipline of giving the 

song space while also reigning it in, and the art emerges, but again 

only once the complexity is erased, leaving only the essential elements 

of story, song, and feeling. 

Photo: Heidi Atkins Photo: Nikole Ramsay 

The ocean is inextricably a part of my life. The waves are always on my 

mind and so often breaking outside the bus windows as we pass by. 

The wild ocean - cold, fierce and menacing, but also calming, nurturing 

and inspiring. The benevolent and the cruel mother both, will forever 

be a constant my family’s life. A life that is driven by love, adventure 

and the road ahead, and a belief that we’ll always find friendly faces, 

a receptive audience, and if we’re lucky a gentle offshore breeze 

awaiting us when we arrive. 

Áine Tyrrell’s debut album Queen of Swords is out now on iTunes or at 

www.ainetyrrell.com 

Photo: Michael Chambers 

Photo: Wes Bowler 

66 



RIGHT: Stoked cardboard 

builder Andrew and his 

new baby. 

68 


GREETING A 

CARD 

LATEST: LOCAL 

BOARD 

Inspired by Mike Sheldrake’s cardboard surfboards, Victorian Smorgasboarder 

reader Andrew Hallett tries his hand at board building in a rather unique way. 

WORDS & PHOTOS: ANDREW HALLETT 

I guess I should not have been surprised that building a surfboard had a flow and a rhythm that felt 

much like riding a surfboard. But having now completed and ridden this watercraft, this similarity is 

the dominant reflection I am left with. 

It actually all started one lazy afternoon. My eyes were dancing across a brand new copy of 

Smorgasboarder. I was probably conveying something cold and refreshing to my tastebuds between 

paragraphs. Turn another page …. gosh, that’s a gorgeous board, great geometric design, what is it? 

What? A cardboard, made out of cardboard! I read the article, appreciated the pictures, and admired 

the attitude and creativeness of the designer, Michael Sheldrake. The website (www.sheldrake.net/ 

cardboards) was inspirational. Lots of pictures, loads of videos, and heaps of free downloads. Excellent. 

I have never made a surfboard, but this would be where I would start. 

So this part of the story was like the trip to the beach at which time your imagination has you riding the 

perfect wave and surfing like a 10 time world champion. I was going to build the most brilliant board of 

all time, and I would start now. I downloaded a few of the files, checked the sizes and styles and made 

a decision about which board to build. Longboard? Nope, got one of those. Fish? No, got one of those 

too. Shortboard. Don’t want one. Mini-Simmons? Ahhh, that’s the board. I’ve wanted one for ages. 

Step one done. 

That was easy. 

“GOSH, THAT’S A GORGEOUS BOARD, GREAT GEOMETRIC DESIGN, 

WHAT IS IT? WHAT? A CARDBOARD, MADE OUT OF CARDBOARD!” 


From a few strips of cardboard, 

a surfboard is born.... 

Step two. Find some of the correct sort of cardboard at the right size. Checked all the local stores. 

Checked online. A month later after about a dozen phone calls, I eventually found a supplier. All I had 

to do was drive 8 hours to pick it up! 

Even at this early stage I was starting to see the connection between building and riding. You don’t tell 

the wave where you are going to surf. The wave offers some pathways, and if you are good enough and 

committed you can humbly accept one of the wave’s gifts. You don’t just purchase unique surfboards, 

you have to journey towards them. 

70 


It was a similar story for the laser cutting of the cardboard and the purchasing of the materials needed 

to build the board. It took ages, but it had a flow to it. A phone call would lead to a web site that would 

lead to a conversation that would provide the product required. I was not building with foam and I was 

using epoxy, so a lot of the stock standard techniques and methods did not always apply. 

It took about four months to get everything together. I could start the build. The laser cut cardboard 

fitted together superbly. Michael Sheldrake has done an absolutely magnificent job. Putting the 

cardboard core together was a really enjoyable task. It felt like pumping through a series of bottom 

turns. Each piece of cardboard added to the outline and shape of the final board. 


LATEST: LOCAL 

Then came the closeout wave. You make the takeoff, line up the bottom 

turn, only to see nothing to surf ahead, only a beating and a long hold down. 

You see I live in southern Victoria, and I was wanting to laminate in July. 

Our good days in July get to 12°C. The resin needed 16°C. So I waited 

for two months for the weather to improve. I held my breath for as long 

as I could. The good weather came with my holidays. The build was on. 

Days passed with a delightful rhythm. Get up. Drink coffee. Cut fibreglass. 

Laminate. Wait a day. Get up. Drink coffee. Sand, laminate, wait. And 

repeat. Cardboards require two lamination layers (4oz, 6oz, then 4oz glass 

on the bottom and 6oz, 4oz, then 6oz on the deck), and two hot coats, and 

at least one gloss coat. This was like a long open wave, bottom turn, hit the 

lip, bottom turn, lip… The board was basically done in two weeks, with a 

Phillip Island surfing safari in the middle. 

Then the board just sits for a while to let the epoxy do its thing. To finish 

I have used clear grip tape on the deck so as not to lose that beautiful 

transparency that make these boards so unique. 

The board surfs like the build. You need to find the right balance of power 

and grace. You react to what the board needs on the wave. It will turn long 

graceful arcs, but it is short enough so that you can snap the nose around off 

the lip. It has a lots of volume (5’6” x 23” x 3”) so takeoffs are a breeze. It is 

a bit of a wave magnet. And being a Mini-Simmons it is fast. Any wave can 

be a good wave. 

And like a real surf, the board is not perfect. There are some resin runs and 

drips, and a couple of scratches. It may develop a leak in time. I have not 

made the perfect board, just like I don’t surf the perfect wave that exists 

only in my head. But I like that. 

Now I need to have another try at building a board, and I need to have 

another surf. I would like to finish by thanking Michael Sheldrake for 

creating some of the most exquisite surfboards/artwork on the planet. 

For more information, see www.sheldrake.net/cardboards 

“THE BOARD SURFS LIKE THE BUILD. YOU NEED 

TO FIND THE RIGHT BALANCE OF POWER AND 

GRACE. YOU REACT TO WHAT THE BOARD NEEDS 

ON THE WAVE.” 

LEFT: The crowning glory - a board like no other! 

72 


XMAS 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER 73 

Photo: Mick Curley

LIVE THE 

DREAM 


74 


“Crystal clear 

waters and skies 

kept us in the water 

for most of 

the day” 


Gold Coast surf photographer Glenn ‘Pugs’ Hardwick 

enjoyed crystal clear water and fun waves in the 

Telo Islands with his mates from the Narrowneck 

Longboard Club. Here’s the holiday snaps you wish 

you had. 

WORDS & PHOTOS: PUGS 



IVE 

76 




IVE 

DREAM 

78 


“That’s how surfing 

can bring a bunch of 

mates together” 

We set sail from the Port of Sibolga on an adventure of a lifetime on 

board the mighty Jiwa, all ten of us from the Narrowneck Longboard club. 

We were headed for the Telo Islands where we found perfect 3 to 4 ft 

surf every day for 11 days straight. That’s a years worth of waves in 11 

days, all very user-friendly and only a few resort boats around. There 

were a few days where it was a bit bigger but nothing to keep us out 

of the water and watching. The broken board tally at the end of the trip 

amounted to five - four longboards and a short board. It was a very costly 

trip for a few of the guys. 

Crystal clear waters and skies kept us in the water for most of the day 

- three surfs, a few Bintangs and more food than you can handle. What 

else could you ask for? 

The surf guide, Eugene Tollemache, is a former European Surf Champ and 

a chef that keeps you frothing at every moment of the day. He has spent a 

lifetime in and around the islands and knows it like the back of his hand. 

Best surf guide in Indo. 

We had a crew of guys that ranged from 22 to 67 so that goes to show 

you that you can still ‘’live The dream’’ no matter what your age. That’s 

how surfing can bring a bunch of mates together. 

It was my third trip on board Jiwa and I have already booked her for 

another ten mates in August next year, can’t wait Yeooowwwwww. 

________ 

For Glenn’s work at home, see his website, lookslikeme.com.au, and 

for his great volunteer work with the Disabled Surfers Association, 

see page 26. 

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31/08/2015 9:45 pm 


LATEST: LOCAL 

ABOVE: Mitchell driving hard in the Banyak Islands 

80 


BLACK 

MAGIC 

PHOTO COURTESY OF RYZPHOTO.COM 

AND SURFBANYAK.COM 

Mitchell Rae of Outer Island Surfboards on the New 

South Wales Mid North Coast has been crafting his 

unique high performance surf craft for some 50 years 

now. There is absolutely no argument whatsoever 

he is one of Australia’s foremost shapers. Indeed 

his innovation and artisan skills in our opinion place 

him and a select few in a complete field of their 

own. With all that said, he has taken his craft to a 

whole new level again. 

Collaborating with non other than celebrated 

filmmaker/ photographer Alby Falzon, they have 

conspired to conjure up Buddha Stix – Mitchell’s 

boards adorned with Alby’s artwork and images. As 

Mitchell puts it, “Arcane spiritual imagery and art 

meets science design technology. These boards will 

take your surfing to a higher realm. They’re gallery 

level surfboards as art forms charged with iconic 

images and cosmic energy fields.” 

Not only do they go like the ducks guts as seen in 

this photo, the amount of detail in the boards is 

nothing short of incredible. Just check out one of 

these boards in detail over the page and you will be 

in complete awe. 


LATEST: LOCAL 

Most who have seen photos of this 

particular board, called the Gold 

Leaf, have been left shaking their 

head. We featured a few small 

photos of it in our Random Tales 

from the Road in our Autumn edition 

earlier this year and since have been 

inundated with requests to see more 

of this board. 

The reason for its name? Your 

eyes are not deceiving you, that 

is a massive amount of gold leaf 

featured in Alby’s Bali inspired 

hand drawn and painted artwork 

7’10” × 20’½” × 2’ 7 /8” 

“I can ride this in anything from 3ft up.” 

all over the board. Aside from the 

board’s stunning appearance it 

also features Mitchell’s cutting 

edge design elements and revered 

high performance flex properties. 

Mitchell gave us a rundown on this 

out-of-this-world craft. 

“This one has the full design 

technology package. V2Flex, full 

carbon fibre Flextail, turbocharged 

deep concaves, Persian Slipper 

dolphin nose, VE cross linked epoxy 

backbone resin and no wax deck. 

The tail third of the board is fully 

alive with Flex.” 

“It also features some new 

developments in the bottom shape 

combining elements of my Moonraker 

model, which is a broad range, super 

fast design that works in anything 

from 2 ft to double-over-head, and my 

Blade Runner model. 

“Now the Blade Runner started off 

as a channel bottom but then I put a 

really deep Venturi concave through 

the centre of it, effectively removing 

the centre channel area. So in 

effect it retains 4 channels and is 

super fast. 

“This combination of my Blade 

Runner and Moonraker models is 

now what I refer to as a Zen Blade, 

which is this board. She absolutely 

lights up in perfect conditions. “ 

82

More honed 

out than a 

butcher’s 

knife. 

They really 

are quite 

extraordinary 

to ride. 

OUTER ISLAND TECH 

• V2Flex – Mitchell’s proprietary inverted 

vee dual stringer that delivers flex between 

the riders feet. 

• Carbon fibre Flextail – where 10-15% of 

the tail volume is removed, sculpting out 

unwanted foam, which is then restored to 

its original volume and buoyancy with soft, 

flexible bodyboard material that is bonded 

and shaped into the construction. 

• Kinetic Construction (VE cross linked 

epoxy backbone resin) – Mitchell’s 

proprietary approach to using carbon and 

Texalium cloth in a way that creates a 

matrix of diagonal fibres that inherently 

increase the strength and flex properties of 

the board. 

• Venturi concave – Quite a complex aspect 

of design to explain in brief other than to 

say this approach is intended to increase lift 

and subsequent board speed. 


GEAR: INNOVATIONS 

HOLLOW VICTORY? 

FAR FROM IT... In fact, the technology Aviso introduced to the surfboard industry was 

revolutionary. The science behind how their boards were constructed where they used an 

autoclave process, core cell and pre-impregnated carbon to create a lightweight, hollow 

and near indestructible surfboard was nothing short of breathtakingly brilliant. 

My appreciation for this unique manufacturing 

process however was from afar. I had never yet 

managed to see an Aviso surfboard in person. You 

can imagine how stoked I was when The Board 

Meeting, a Sunshine Coast charity that stages 

various surf-related events throughout the year 

to raise much-needed funds for severely disabled 

local children and their families, were hosting a 

Long Lunch I was to attend. There at the lunch, 

various surfboards and memorabilia were to be 

auctioned including a very rare Aviso hollow 

carbon fibre surfboard shaped by none other than 

legendary board builder Dick van Straalen. In fact 

the board was from his personal collection. 

Considering there was a remote possibility I could 

purchase such a board had me a little toey I have 

to admit. The reality however was I hadn’t been 

recently divorced, nor had I won lotto, so the 

chances of that happening were pretty remote. 

Anyhow as per usual I digress. 

“Why all the fuss about Aviso?” I here you say. 

Well I had read swathes of articles about these 

boards and quite simply, they fascinated me. 

This was a company who took a super high tech 

approach to removing the blank altogether from 

surfboard construction. 

Aviso specialised in composite engineering 

techniques. The materials and methods employed 

were well known within the aerospace and 

defense industry, where Aviso had made a name 

for themselves. They translated their experience in 

advanced composite construction techniques and 

applied them to surfboard construction and began 

working with some of the world’s most recognised 

shapers to produce their signature models. At one 

stage I believe Aviso was working with 21 shapers, 

producing some 85 designs. Dick van Straalen 

was one of these shapers. A while back I had the 

opportunity to speak with Dick about working with 

Aviso and this is what he had to say. 

“They were a three-generation family company. 

The grandfather put the spaceships on the moon, 

the father worked on a lot of America’s Cup yachts. 

“They were the most advanced board on the 

market but unfortunately nobody wanted to pick 

up on it. Carbon is fantastic and I don’t understand 

why more people aren’t on to it. Every form of 

high tech craft in the world is using carbon from 

aeroplanes through to racing yachts and I am 

surprised the surfing industry is not using more of 

it. A strip here and there is useless.” 

ABOVE: Aviso Dick van Straalen Rocket 

Fish TOP: Dick tells the story behind the 

board at the Long Lunch 

84 


Each Aviso surfboard was primarily made of unidirectional and woven 

carbon fibre, with a layer of high-density closed cell foam sandwiched 

within the deck and the bottom to give each panel stiffness. 

The first step in the construction process was to create two halves to 

the board – a deck and bottom. Layers of pre-preg carbon were placed 

in a mould sandwiching the foam. Once the deck and bottom laminates 

were complete, rail plies would be used to tie the two together. All 

would then be placed within a mould, with a membrane bag on the 

inside of the two panels. The bag would be inflated to hold the fibre in 

place and put pressure on the laminate to the inner shell of the mould 

before it was baked to cure the epoxy resin. 

Each board’s hollow construction not only made them incredibly 

light but supposedly delivered unique flex properties heightening 

performance. Since the deck and bottom weren’t directly connected, 

except through the rails, they flexed independently. This acted as a 

suspension system of sorts reportedly ‘launching surfers from one turn 

into the next with remarkable control and momentum’. If I understand 

the claims correctly, the bottom morphed into the wave straightening 

the rocker whilst the deck absorbed and stored potential energy so 

the surfer would supposedly experience an ‘almost constant state of 

acceleration’. 

Aside from claims of superior performance, Aviso also stated their 

boards were seven times stronger than a standard PU board. This 

improved durability along with their construction technique heightened 

their eco credentials. Dick underlined this claim. 

Get back 

to the roots... 

Native Hawaiian 

surfer with alaia 

board, circa 1911 

with paulownia 

“They were the most environmentally-friendly boards because there 

was next to no waste. It was hollow, there was no foam in it and prepreg 

carbon was used.” 

Aviso claimed that 100% of all the Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) 

were contained within the mould during the construction process. As 

we understand it, rather than use wet resins, curing boards with preimpregnated 

resins under vacuum supposedly traps the fumes within 

the mould. 

“The surfboard industry has unbelievable waste. I handshape 

everything but from what I understand with computer shaping, the 

robot discards most of the blank and close to 50% ends up on the floor. 

That to me is ludicrous, particularly in a time when we need to be 

environmentally conscious.” 

Researching Aviso this time last year when we were putting together 

our Surfing Earth-Friendly Edition (issue #26) I was stunned to learn 

of the closure of their surfboard manufacturing arm. Unfortunately 

it appears the price Aviso were asking for these boards, near twice 

that of a standard PU board, coupled with the downturn in the global 

economy, saw not enough people buying them. 

Maybe we will see this technology revisited in the future with 

heightened concerns for the environment or if construction costs 

can be significantly reduced? A ‘hollow existence’ may yet prove 

beneficial to the earth. As for the sweet 5’10” x 20” x 2.75” Aviso 

Dick van Straalen Rocket Fish that was up for auction at The Board 

Meeting charity lunch, which Dick had signed I might add, and that 

weighed under 2kg, some lucky bugger purchased it for near the 

price of a standard board. Bugger, bugger, bugger... My appreciation 

for now will have to continue from afar. 

Our buoyant, 

lightweight timber floats 

all around the world. 

• Tom Wegener preferred alaia blanks 

• Alaia & Kite Boards 

• Long Boards 

• Hollow Boards 

• Chambered Boards 

SURFBOARD SUPPLIES 

Buy the Best Paulownia 

Timber Australia has to offer. 

Contact David Evans 

P: 03 9588 2533 

E: info.sales@paulowniasurfboardsupplies.com 

W: www.paulowniasurfboardsupplies.com 


SHAPER’S PROMOTION 

GEAR: BOARDS 

5’10” x 18 ¾” x 2 1 / 8” 

WHITE 

CROW 

by Robbie Marshall 

This is a high 3 

performance 

shortboard designed 

for summer conditions. Low 

entry rocker, mid/boxy rail 

though the middle. Single to 

double concave to vee behind 

the rear fin make gathering 

speed and turning in weak 

waves easy. With the low entry 

rocker and foam carrying right to 

the rail under chest, your wave 

count will be up! 

5’7” x 19” x 2 3 / 16” 

HIPSTER 

DOOFUS 

by Robbie Marshall 

RIDER COMMENTS 5 

“This little 5’7 feels 

magic, a really nice 

outline with the pulled in round 

tail make it transition really well 

and releases when you want 

it to. 

“The tail’s also a bit thinner 

so it’s really responsive and 

can fit turns in tight pockets. 

Low rocker makes it really 

fast on full waves and linking 

between fat sections, while 

the responsive tail still lets you 

make quick adjustments, so it 

doesn’t catch when gets more 

hollow.” 

SOUL ARCH SURFBOARDS 

Ph: 0404 348 131 

E: dobba_21@hotmail.com 

Soularch Surfboards 

robbie_marshall21 

86 


GEAR 

SURFBOARDS 

SO, HOW DO ROBBIE MARSHALL’S SOUL ARCH BOARDS GO? 

Ask Jake Spellacy, here in Mexico on his gun, featured in the Smorgasborder Easter issue. Photo Hannah Gilligan, courtesy of Robbie Marshall 



GEAR: BOARDS 

9’6” x 23” x 3” 

BLENDED 

SINGLE FIN 

LONGBOARD 

by Mark Rabbidge 

This one is an old 

school longboard blended with 

a performance longboard. I 

shaped it for Shaun to surf 

Crescent Head. It basically 

has the glide of an old school 

longboard with a bit of life 

added to it. Nice blue tint with 

a fabric inlay means she looks 

pretty sweet as well. 

1 

5’8” x 19 ¾” x 2 ½” 

5’8” SINGLE 

by Mark Rabbidge 

This one was made 1 

especially for Pam 

(Burridge). It’s a replica of 

her original 5’8”. Pam’s first 

surfboard. It was made in the 

traditional theme of boards 

from that era. All the colour 

work you see including the 

black lines are tints. It was 

a nightmare to make but a 

worthy wall-hanger. 

RABBIDGE 

SURF DESIGN 

Bendalong, NSW 

Ph: 02 4456 4038 

M: 0427 767 176 

www.markrabbidge.com 

5’10” x 19 ¾” x 2 ½” 

DEATH 

LETTER 

by Jesse Watson 

“The Death Letter 

5 

is exactly what the 

name says - an amazing board 

that has spelt the demise 

of the cookie cutter white 

performance shortboard as we 

know it. I recently watched a 

buddy do one of the biggest 

roundhouse whacks I have 

ever seen on this very model 

- BOOM! 

“4/4oz deck 4 oz bottom - hot 

pink/slate grey resin tint 

combo 5 fin FCS.” 

7’6” x 21 ½”x 2 ¾” 

ANCHORS 

PHASE II 

by Jesse Watson 

If you could only 

1 

have one board 

in your quiver, this is the 

board. It will ride 2’ - 10’ 

pointbreaks to beachbreaks. 

The most versatile board in 

our range. Single fins bring 

surfing back to its rawest 

form and the intuitiveness is 

amazing. You dont have to 

think, you just surf. 

6/6oz deck 6oz bottom - 

custom Burt Reynolds Boogie 

Nights inlay, single 9” flex fin. 

BLACK APACHE SURFBOARDS 

@blackapache Look us up... 

P: 0410 419 791 

E: blackapache@me.com 

blackapachesurfboards.com 

88 


GEAR: BOARDS 


6’2” x 20 ¼” x 2 ¾” 

SMARTBOARD 

Custom handshape 

by Mitchell Rae 

Available as a V2Flex 5 

5-fin option, this 

Smartboard features a Bali 

batik fabric inlay and gold 

pinline. 

Fast, easy wave entry, low 

rocker glides through summer 

slop... The perfect summer 

magic carpet. 

Available by custom order 

throughout the size range. 

6’1 x 18 ¾” 2 ½” 

SHORTBOARD 

by Jason Oliver 

For everyday use, 

this one from 

recycled pine 

pallets, hollow construction, 

finished in epoxy. 3x fins FCS 

FULLY SEALED 

INSIDE. 

3 

5’9” x 18 ¾” x 2 5 / 16” 

ALL ROUNDER 

by Daren Glennan 

Single to double 

concave, Futures 3 

thruster setup. 

Neon tint cutlap Lam. King poly 

foam, Newkem poly resin. 

Compliment with a set list 

of Social Distortion, DRI, 

Suicidal Tendencies and Rise 

Against before paddling out. 

9’2” x 22 ½” x 2 ¾” 

HPLB 

by Daren Glennan 

2+1 

Slight nose concave to rolled 

vee to double concave. 2+1 

setup FCS + 9” fin box. King 

poly foam, Newkem poly resin, 

gloss and polish. 

OUTER ISLAND 

SURFBOARDS 

7 Bayldon Drive, 

Raleigh, NSW 

Ph: 02 6655 7007 

info@outerislandsurfboards.com 

outerislandsurfboards.com 

outerisland.blogspot.com 

Outer Island Surfboards 

JASON OLIVER 

HOLLOW WOODEN SURFBOARDS 

Ph: 0416 475 362 

Email: jasoliver@live.com 

jasonoliverwoodensurfboards.com.au 

Boards available at: 

UNDERGROUND SURF, Noosa Heads 

ENTITY SURFBOARDS 

Ph: 0423 987 492 

1-2/2 Regmoore Cl, 

Culburra Beach NSW 2540 

ww.entitysurfboards.com.au 

High performance longboarding 

with enough nose to get to tip. 



GEAR: BOARDS 

5’6” x 21” x 2 ¾” 

BLACK HEART 

TWIN 

by Rory Oke 2 

Flat bottom, low 

rocker, with a scooped vee off 

the tail. 

Hand shaped Ocean Foam PU 

stringerless blank, 6oz cloth 

polished/wetrub finish and 

twin keels. 

The stringerless blank with 

deep swallow gives plenty 

of flex throughout the board, 

releasing more energy which 

creates more speed. 

5’11” x 18 7 / 8” x 2 ¼” 

MARBLE 

MEATSTICK 

by Rory Oke 

Josh ‘Meatballs’ 

Meyer’s personal 3 

model. 

Handshaped Ocean Foam PU 

blank, 6 oz cloth, black marble 

pigment. Thruster setup. 

The new summer all-round 

shortboard. Wider nose, lower 

rocker, flatter deck but still 

a performance shortboard 

outline. Ride an inch or two 

shorter than normal. 

5’9” x 20 ¼” x 2 5 / 8” 

JACK OF ALL 

TRADES 

by Leighton Clark 

“Round tail. Low entry rocker. 

Single to double concave with 

v exiting in tail. Futures boxes. 

“Cut lap resin tint. Great all 

round board for summer waves 

but comes alive as stuff gets a 

bit more serious.” 

3 

9’2” x 23” x 3” 

CLASSIC MAL 

by Leighton Clark 

“Custom inlay for all 

2+1 

the Pirates out their. 

Gloss polish. 10” center 

box. Futures side bites. 

“Perfect for the warm summer 

swells. Lively off the tail but 

stable on the nose.” 

OKE SURFBOARDS 

1/1-7 Canterbury Rd, 

Braeside, VIC, 3195 

Ph: 03 9587 3553 

okesurfboards.com 

Units 7 & 8, 9 Chapman Road, 

Hackham SA 5163 

E: leightonclark01@yahoo.com.au 

M: 0422 443 789 

facebook.com/thedingkingAUS 

The Ding King is a collaborative of 

South Australian surfboard shapers, 

glassers, artists and sanders. As well 

as pumping out ding repairs, we also 

produce brand new surfcraft and run 

shaping workshops. 

90 



GEAR: BOARDS 

6’0”x 19 1 /8” x 2 7 /8” 

SQUASH 

by Stewart Maxwell 

Available with two 3 

different bottom 

contours. One where 

the concave carries right the 

way through and the other 

with a flatter entry through to 

a 4mm concave two thirds of 

the way through the board. 

From 5’8” to 6’4”, in any tail or 

thickness. 

5’6”x 20 1 /8” x 2 5 /8” 

5-FIN FISH 


Flatter rocker with 5 

old school S-Deck 

with the volume 

under chest but with a modern 

bottom with all the bells and 

whistles - 6mm vee with 

double barrel concaves. This 

one’s a fish tail up to 6’0”, 

but boards are available 

as customs in any tail or 

thickness, 

6’3 ½”x 22 1 /8” x 2 ½” 

MAGIC 

CARPET 1 


Quad or thruster 5 

setup with a whole 

heap of subtleties in 

the bottom. Too many to detail 

so come in and have a chat. 

Available from 6’2” to 6’8” 

in any tail shape and to any 

thickness. 

6’4”x 22 1 /8” x 2 ½” 

MAGIC 

CARPET 2 


Quad or thruster 5 

setup with a whole 

heap of subtleties in 

the bottom. Too many to detail 

so come in and have a chat. 

Available from 6’2” to 6’8” 

in any tail shape and to any 

thickness. 

MAXIMUM SURFBOARDS 

46 Currumbin Creek Rd, Currumbin Waters QLD 

Ph: 0400 338 098 E: maximumsurf@bigpond.com www.maximumsurfboards.com.au 



GEAR: BOARDS 

9’6” x 23” x 3” 

TAANE 

TOKANA 

The board is 9’6” x 

23 x 3, designed for 3 

a bloke who knows 

what he is doing but wants to 

enjoy the smooth, fast action 

of a board with a concave nose 

and vee through the tail. 

6’0” x 20 ½” x 2 ½” 

FUN, FAST 

& FISHY 

by Graham Carse 

Fun fish designed for 3 

small waves. It spent 

3hrs on the rack and was sold! 

Woo! 

6’10” x 20“ x 2 ¾” 

USA EAST 

COASTER 

by Graham Carse 

Made for Kristoffer 3 

from Washington DC. 

He wanted a board for the fun 

waves of the East. 

QUARRY BEACH SURFBOARDS 

75 David St, Caversham, Dunedin NZ 

Ph: +64 3 455 7414 

M: +64 27 518 8678 

www.qbsurfboards.com 

92 


8’ x 29” x 4 ½”=114 litres. 10’6” x 32” x 4 13 / 16”=180 litres 

LSX 8’ LSX 10’6” 

by Andy Jordan 

by Andy Jordan 

“A fishy style board 5 “The 10’6” is similar 3 

that has a light vee 

to the 10’ but 

in the nose through to the 

narrower, has a curvy outline 

middle with double concave with a full nose and round 

through the tail. This board square tail with vee and 

is designed for having fun in double concaves. 

little waves but still having 

volume so you don`t have to 

“These qualities make the 

keep paddling. 

board stable as well as an 

easy wave catcher. This board 

“The LSX 8’ is only 5 litres is a really smooth ride, and an 

less than last year’s 8’8”. 

excellent flowing board. It can 

be used in any surf conditions 

and also tracks well in the flat 

water for long distances. 

“The 10’6” is an ideal allround 

board with plenty of 

volume suitable for novice 

riders 60-95kg or advanced 

surfers 90+kg.” 

CUSTOM TO SUIT 

BESPOKE 

by us, or you... 

bespoke /br’speok/ 

(made to order/a 

specific use or 

purpose). 

For those who don’t want to 

follow, but work on their own 

program and experiment with 

their own design. 

Get what you want, not what 

they ride. 

Custom shape by us or come 

and shape your own under our 

guidance. Visit 

www.seasonssurfboards.co.nz 

for details 

CUSTOM TO SUIT 

FARR OUT 

by Bryan ‘BJ’ Smith 

This is the “Farr Out 

performance model“ 

as ridden buy Daniel 

Farr in winning the NZ under 

16 scholastic’s. 

High performance single 

through double concave, subtle 

flat through front foot for speed 

and for flat wave carry, with 

medium tail release. Low, 

edgier rail profile. 

Available in all sizes to suit. 

? 3 

TAURANGA, NZ 

(In NZ 0800 787 464) 

P: +64 (07) 5701953 

M: +64 (027) 2433011 

W: www.liquidstixx.co.nz 

SEASONS SURFBOARDS 

E: seasons@xtra.co.nz 

P: +64 2 173 2766 

W: www.seasonssurfboards.co.nz 


GEAR 

SURFBOARDS 

BELOW: Andrew Bennett in Fiji. Photo by Nick Liotta. 

ABOVE: Mike T. Photos supplied courtesy of 1-DA Shapes 

94 


GEAR: BOARDS 


5’8”x 19 5 /8” x 2 7 /16” (30.2L) 

DUB T 

The DUB T was 

designed as a true 

Twin Fin surfboard. It 

has the added benefit 

of a centre fin box to fit a small 

stabiliser for more hold and drive 

when it gets big. 

This twinnie features a single into 

a double concave with a slight vee 

off the tail, working in conjunction 

with the single flyer swallow tail 

for added drive. The design also 

incorporates a time tested rocker, 

with a flatter deck and mid+ rails. 

The DUB T was 

designed for small to 

overhead waves. 

A ‘must have’ in your 

quiver this summer for 

all twin fin lovers! 

Surfboards by Gavin Upson 

5’4”x 20 3 /8” x 2 3 /8” (31.4L) 

BUZZINGA 

5’6”x 19 7 /8” x 2 7 /16” (30.4L) 

HYPO 

Put the ‘buzz’ back into your 

Hype up your surf 

small wave surf sessions 

sessions this summer! 

2 5 5 

with this little gem! The 

design came through 

The HYPO is all about 

discussions with Bobby Martinez of speed and fun. You’ll find yourself 

what he likes in his shoulder-highand-under 

boards where he feels 

normally make on your high 

making sections you wouldn’t 

the ‘buzz’. 

performance short board. 

The BUZZINGA is 

Designed for small to medium 

DESIGNED FOR 

waves, this model paddles and 

FUN, but of course 

catches waves like a dream due to 

with a ‘performance’ 

the volume under the chest. 

edge, typical of Gav’s 

Speed is generated through the old 

designs. This FUN 

school single fin outline, which is 

hybrid includes a full 

complimented with a nice round 

nose outline. The bottom has a roll 

tail for smooth transition between 

for ease of water placement, which turns and mid rails keeping the 

feeds into a single to double vee 

board connected to the wave. 

concave offering increased speed. 

The flatter rocker 

After viewing footage of surfers 

and concave 

riding similar designed boards, 

give you all the 

Gav also added a double flyer so 

speed under the 

the tail isn’t so loosey goosey. The 

sun. Gav added a 

total package for small wave days 

little bit of added 

… fun and performance! 

kick in the nose 

to prevent pearling too. And the 

double concave vee round tail 

combination generates ease of rail 

to rail transition. 

7’6”x 21 5 /8” x 2 7 /8” (52.9L) 

LITTLE WARRIOR 

The design of the LITTLE 

WARRIOR is based on 

the foamy Learn-To-Surf 

boards. This mini mal has 

a flat deck and beefed up rails 

providing stability which is great 

for beginners. 

The LITTLE 

WARRIOR isn’t just 

for beginners. It’s 

also great for the 

intermediate and 

advanced mal riders, 

for when the waves 

are waist height and under, it has 

enough floatation without having 

to throw around all the volume and 

length of a 9 foot + mal. 

3 

Ph: 07 5534 7704 E: info@1-dashapes.com W: 1-dashapes.com 

1-DA Shapes 



GEAR: BOARDS 

5’11” x 20” x 2 5 / 8”=35L 6’5” x 21” x 2 ¾” = 44L 6’1” x 19” x 2 3 / 8” = 28L 5’10” x 20” x 2 5 / 8”= 35L 

LUXE TWIN SLIPPER TUG DELUXE WHIPPIT 

by Chris Garrett by Chris Garrett by Chris Garrett by Chris Garrett 

The Luxe Twin is a 2 The Slipper is a classic 1 Tug Deluxe is the board 3 Whippit is a super 

contemporary take on 

styled board with a 

that has allowed Josh 

fun all round board 

4 

the ‘70s classic. A fuller 

forward feeling outline with an 

accelerating narrower tail curve, 

allows you to have a great paddle 

a contemporary feel. If 

you love the feeling of projection, 

freedom and glide out of your 

turns, with a bit of modern go fast 

Grange to win the last 

three Qld titles in a row...well done 

Josh! .....a high performance board 

for day to day surfing. 

that will perform 

exceptionally well in a variety of 

waves. The wide point is forward, 

a flattened rocker and a roll under 

advantage with excellent drive 

and turn technology, then this 

the nose, this board is typically 

and manoeuvrability from the flyers board will have you beaming from 

Ideally suited to better quality 

ridden quite short. Plenty of paddle 

in the tail. If you like fin and edge the first wave. 

waves but quite capable of holding 

power and spark in the turns from 

surfing with continuous glide and 

its own in the junk as well, it is 

the deepish double concave, this 

acceleration throughout the turns, 

There’s plenty of volume to glide 

the perfect option for those high 

is a real ‘go to’ board for those 

then this could be your next choice. 

you easily onto a wave and give 

speed critical manoeuvres with a 

wanting a one board quiver. 

you all the speed, trim and hold 

bit of forgiveness built in to get you 

It performs well in and around the 

pocket and yet maintains drive and 

trim out on the face. It is quite at 

home in either the beach breaks 

or those super fast down the line 

point waves. Best ridden with set 

side fins to maximize performance 

and longevity and can be fitted 

with an extra set of tail plugs for 

the small stabilizer. 

to push you down the line if you 

want or just style in the pocket. 

When the waves get up and start 

cranking, and line up dominance 

is important, the Slipper is a real 

performer that will get you into 

and through some of the deepest 

sections that you’d like to be in. A 

set fin is best but a fin box is the 

popular choice. 

through when you’re not on your 

game. Lower rocker in the nose 

and a bit of kick in the tail keeps 

the triple concave to vee alive and 

responsive. 

A quad set up is optimal and in 

the Fouruster configuration..... 

think your best board, cut about a 

foot off it and it is now your best 

board ever!! 

CHRIS GARRETT SHAPES PHANTOM SURFBOARDS 

Ph: 0424 450 690 E: phantomsurfboards@gmail.com www.chrisgarrettshapes.com.au 

Custom surfboards available at: SUNHOUSE, Coolangatta, or order from Chris direct. 

96 


GEAR: BOARDS 


5’6” x 19 ¾” x 2 ½” 

MICROCHIP 

Inches shorter 

than your average 

funboard, however, the 3 or 4 

construction offers much 

more floatation, and with flatter 

rocker results in easy paddling. 

Flyers and a fish tail make it easier 

to maintain speed through softer 

sections. Surf as a thruster or quad 

for that skatey feeling. Also great 

for the kids! 

Differing from normal polyurethane 

foam, these boards are constructed 

with a polystyrene core, making 

them lighter with better flotation. 

Shaped from Peter’s original, the 

board is glassed using Epoxy resin. 

3mm of PVC is then applied using 

superior technology. This produces 

an extremely strong surfboard. 

Strong, lightweight and lots of fun! 

CLASSIC 

MALIBU 

6’2” - 7’6” (CUSTOM) 

SUNNY 

EGG SIDE UP 

Offering masses of fun the 

egg is versatile in a wide 

5 

array of conditions, able to 

tackle almost any wave, 

from mellow points to hollow 

beach breaks. The Sunny Side 

Up is a fuller version with wider 

nose and tail that can be surfed 

inches shorter than your average 

short-board. With a slight vee and 

double concave through the tail 

this model is fast, producing tight 

turns. Change it up by surfing as 

a quad, single fin or 2+1. Plenty 

of flotation equals easy paddling. 

Quality Australian made and handshaped, 

this board’s dimensions 

can be custom made to suit a 

surfer of any size, style or ability. 

WE’RE BACK FOR A SUMMER OF FUN! 

16 Mary Street, Noosaville, 4566 

P: (07) 5474 3122 E: info@classicmalibu.com www.classicmalibu.com 

Follow us if you share our passion for quality manufactured surfboards 

Classic Malibu Surfboards, Noosa @classicmalibu Classicmalibu1 

5’11” - 7’6” (CUSTOM) 

SLAB 

A small wave alternative with 

added stability and more 

versatility than a sub-7ft 

board. Ideal for smaller 5 

or fuller waves, but just 

as much fun in the hollow stuff 

with a single concave through to 

vee and flatter rocker. An easier 

progression from a longboard, or 

to keep you in the water when the 

waves are gutless, but you still 

want some fun! 

Available in a wide range of sizes 

and fin options depending on your 

style. 

OUR HISTORY 

5’6” - 6’4” (CUSTOM) 

FISH 

Fast and fun, the fish 

offers quick rail to rail 

2 or 4 

transitions. A wider, 

flatter, fuller, easy 

paddling board that is ride-able 

at a significantly shorter length. 

Increased flow and trim make them 

excellent on longer point waves, 

but with a few refinements, are 

equally adaptable to beach breaks. 

Add single or multiple flyers to 

maintain that shortboard feel. 

Available as twin, quad or both 

options. 

Peter White shaped his first surfboard in 1965 and has 

made surfboards ever since, having travelled the world 

sharing his craft throughout England, Spain, Japan, Taiwan 

and now China. Mainly shaping short-boards during the 

first 20 years, it wasn’t until he moved to Queensland in 

1987, that he concentrated on long-boards and fun-boards. 

Hence the Classic Malibu brand evolved. 

When Peter White moved to Noosa and first founded Classic Malibu about 28 years 

ago, he was the only surfboard manufacturer and retailer in the Noosa region. Moving 

from Victoria, in southern Australia, for the undeniable easy going surf lifestyle, 

warm climate and fun waves on offer, Peter quickly established himself as the most 

innovative and best long board designer in Australia. Expanding over the years 

Classic Malibu Surfboards are now recognised all around the world as a purveyor 

of expertly crafted traditional and progressive surfboards of all sizes and shapes. 


BLACK HULA 9’8” x 21 ¼” x 3 5 /8” = 79.8L 


GEAR: BOARDS 

5’10” x 18 5 /8” x 2 ¼” = 25.7L 

SNIPER 

• Shortboard 

• Medium nose and tail rocker 

• Deep single concave 

• Medium / Low boxy rail 

5’5” x 19 ½” x 2 5 /16” = 27.2L 

NITRO 

• Small wave Fish board 

• Low nose and tail rocker 

• Slight single concave to 

veed tail 

• Medium boxy rail 

6’2” x 18 ½” x 2 3 / 8” = 29.2L 

NAPALM 

• Step-Up board 

• Medium nose and tail rocker 

• Slight single concave to 

double concave 

• Medium boxy rail 

• Big wave board 

• Medium nose and low tail rocker 

• Vee bottom 

• Medium boxy rail with refined tail 

WEBSTER SURFBOARDS are proudly 

made in Ballina by Wayne Webster 

1/13 Clark St, Ballina NSW 2478 M: 0416 049 205 

W: webstersurfboards.com.au E: info@webstersurfboards.com.au 

98 


From this 

pristine, sterile 

… 

laboratory 

in Far North Queensland 

5’5” x 19 ¾” x 2 ½” 6’5” x 22” x 3” 

FANCY 

WEIRD 

by Darren Dickson 

Futures quad. 

All boards done with 

resin tints. 

DIRTY 

PIRATE 

by Darren Dickson 

4 Chamfered rail quad 

with single fin box 

5 

and four Futures boxes for 

setup options. 

another weirdarse 

creation 

is born! 

DICKO BOARDS 

Shed 4, 10 Baines Cr, Torquay, VIC M: 0437 246 848 E: dickosurf@gmail.com 

Look for Darren Dickson TAURANGA, Surfboards NZ on Facebook 

WWW.SURF1770NOOSA.COM 

SURF1770@BIGPOND.COM 


SURFBOARD 

DINGS 

New Zealand 

RAGLAN, NZ 

RAGLAN 

LONGBOARDS 

7 days, 10am to 5pm except 

winter - catch us if you can 

+64 7 825 0544 

KAIKOURA, NZ 

SURGE 

SURFBOARDS 

Bust your board? 

Call us 24/7 

027 428 7453 

Queensland 

AGNES WATER/1770 

REEF 2 BEACH 

Mon-Sat, 9-5pm, 

Sun,10-4pm 

07 4974 9072 

NOOSA REGION 

SUNRISE 

SURFCRAFT 

Round the clock 

0421 140 653 

Sunrise Beach 

COOLUM 

COOLUM 

BOARDROOM 

2 Park Street, Coolum Beach 

07 5408 4600 

MOFFAT BEACH 

THE FACTORY 

SURFBOARDS 

Monday-Friday 9am-5pm, 

Saturday 8am-12pm 

(07) 5492 5838 

LABRADOR 

GC SURFCRAFT 

REPAIRS 

Mon-Fri 9am - 5.30pm 

Sat 9-12pm 

0401 016 088 

Repairs & Restorations 

SOUTHPORT 

KOMA 

Mon-Fri 9am -5pm, 

Sat 9am -12pm 

0402 863 763 

MIAMI 

THE DING SHOP 

Mon - Fri 8.30am - 5pm, 

Sat 9am - 1pm 

0404 804 498 

BURLEIGH HEADS 

MT WOODGEE 

1730 Gold Coast Highway 

(07) 5535 0288 

Sun-Fri, 9am - 5pm 

Sat 8:30am - 5pm 

CURRUMBIN 

MT WOODGEE 

2 Stewart Rd 

(07) 5598 2188 

Sun-Fri, 9am - 5pm 

Sat 10am - 4pm 

MAXIMUM 

SURFBOARDS 

46 Currumbin Creek Rd 

Mon - Fri 9am - 5pm 


Sun by appointment 

0400 338 098 

New South Wales 

YAMBA 

PLANK SHOP 

02 6645 8362 

TOMBSTONE 

SURFBOARDS 

Tues - Fri 9am - 4pm, Sat 

9am - 12pm 

0432 330 826 

COFFS HARBOUR 

SURF CRAFT 

REPAIRS 

JIM NEWTON 

4/6 Druitt Court 

Open most days, just call. 

0402 864 062 

BUSTED YOUR BOARD? 

GET IT FIXED HERE... 

CENTRAL COAST 

BUCKOS 

SURFBOARD 

& SUP 

REPAIRS AND 

RESTORATIONS 

Mon-Fri 10am - 5.30pm 

Weekends by appointment 

0422 304 078 

CRONULLA 

RILEY BALSA 

SURFBOARDS 

WOODEN BOARD REPAIRS 

Mon-Sat 9am-4pm 

0412 376 464 

WOLLONGONG 

SKIPP 

SURFBOARDS 

Mon - Fri 9-5pm 

Sat 9-4pm, Sun 9-3pm 

02 4228 8878 

SHELLHARBOUR 

BROWN DOGG 

7 days a week - Just call 

0416 455 985 

JERVIS BAY 

INNER FEELING 

SURFBOARDS 

Seven days, 9am - 5pm 

02 4441 6756 

Victoria 

BELLARINE 

PENINSULA 

ROUSA 

SURFBOARDS 

Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm, 

0403 693 333 

THORNBURY 

ZAK 

SURFBOARDS 

Mon - Fri 10am - 6pm, 


03 9416 7384 

TORQUAY 

STONKER 


03 5261 6077 

THE SURFERS 

SHED 


0437 246 848 

PHILLIP ISLAND 

ISLAND SURF 

SHOP, COWES 

7 days, 9-5pm 

03 5952 2578 

South Australia 

MID COAST 

THE DING KING 

Clark Surfboards 

Mon - Fri 9am - 5pm 

0422 443 789 

LONSDALE 

MID COAST SURF 

Call us for a quality repair 

08 8384 5522 

SOUTH COAST 

MR DAMAGE 

SURFBOARDS 

Call Mark 0416 199 764 

mark@mrdamagesurfboards. 

com.au 

DO YOU FIX 

BROKEN 

BOARDS? 

Promote your surfboard repair 

business for $15 an edition. 

Call 0401 345 201 

100 


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CLOSEOUT: COLUMNS 

TALKING BOARD DESIGN WITH JESSE WATSON OF BLACK APACHE SURFBOARDS 

SO HERE WE GO... SOME OF YOU MAY BE CHAMPING AT THE 

BIT TO GET INTO THIS AND YET OTHERS MAY BE ASKING WHY, 

HAPPY IN THE BELIEF THAT WHAT MAKES A SURFBOARD 

WORK IS SOME MYSTICAL COMBINATION OF VOODOO, 

ALCHEMY AND WITCHCRAFT ALL ROLLED INTO ONE. 

What I hope to give you in this series is the ability to unravel some 

mysteries and hopefully teach you a bit more about your boards, how 

they work and why they work. It’s something that has been of great 

interest to me since before I ever picked up the shaping tools, probably 

the reason I eventually did, and is still a huge part of my dealings with 

new customers now. 

Firstly though my disclaimer: What I represent and try to teach you 

here are the theories and the knowledge I’ve learnt from standing on 

the shoulders of great shapers before me. Some of the knowledge was 

willingly passed on and encouraged and some gleaned from interaction 

and exposure. Even more of it has come from my own personal 

research. When we talk in terms of hydrodynamics we talk in terms 

that are reasonably absolute, however due to the changing nature of 

water as a liquid and the many variables associated with both the 

102 


surfer, the type of wave and the shape of the boards themselves, what I 

will try to share is definitely open to conjecture. You may find that some 

of what I say resonates with you at times, yet at others find yourself 

thinking this guy is a moron. That is perfectly fine too (my wife has a 

club you can join). Even if we disagree, at least you’re thinking about it, 

which is the aim from the beginning. I wholeheartedly welcome debate 

as it projects ideas forward into the future and... 

I AM ALWAYS EAGER TO LEARN TOO. 

I will try to give you my perspective as someone who started out hand 

shaping and foiling fins under a tree in the backyard, progressed into 

production factories, has had the privilege to work with some of the 

country’s best craftsmen and has been able to do so for more than 10 

years. 10 years is just a blip on the Australian surfing scene and we 

still have some of the very first manufacturers in Australia still making 

boards to this day so again I’m just a baby. I have however had the 

opportunity to run everything from electric planers to old school rocker 

jigs and routers (the very first shaping machines) CNC shaping machines 

and further to the modern CNC Shaping machines as well as exposure 

to various machinery for cutting panels, foiling fins etc. etc. So even in a 

short 10-year period I have had the luxury of being involved and exposed 

to virtually every aspect of the industry that takes place on Australian 

soil. I recently started studying engineering with a particular interest in 

engineering design and materials. 

What I hope is that this experience will in some small way qualify me to 

try to give an unbiased and honest input into the subjects we are going 

to cover. By all means I want your involvement. If there is a subject 

you would like covered, or you want more information than this small 

section allows for contact Smorgasboarder and we can make it happen. 

At the end of the day what I hope to achieve is a greater knowledge of 

surfboards for the average guy/ girl on the street. It can be a minefield 

for the average punter not armed with the information you need. You 

may find yourself too afraid to order a custom board or frozen in front 

of a rack of boards unsure of what you want or need and why; afraid 

to look stupid by asking questions you are left stranded, relying solely 

on the logic of the salesman next to you; unrealistically hopeful that 

this guy knows you, your style, where you surf, how you surf and can 

guide you to a magic board. The number of things I’ve heard told to 

potential customers in a retail setting that were completely wrong and 

backwards is incredible. Please do not get me wrong, my aim is not to 

drive you away from buying boards from a shop at all, for many people 

the act of holding a board under arm is a huge indicator of its suitability 

and likely performance (a subject we will touch on) and this is usually 

in a retail setting. Besides there are some awesome core board stores 

out there. What I do hope to change is your total reliance on anyone 

for information that you can learn yourself. Maybe the salespeople out 

there may even be listening too and the whole scenario can improve for 

everybody involved. Happy customers are after all return customers. 

As a shaper the best outcomes for custom orders and the clients that I 

have the most mutually rewarding relationships with are the ones who 

have a basic idea of what they want and what they are trying to do with 

their surfing in general. 

Hopefully this little bit of knowledge will help at the very least to make 

the gap between owning magic boards that much smaller and save you 

from spending your days trying to desperately find a replacement for 

that one magic board you had way back when. 

In the next issue we dive straight in so come prepared! 

www.blackapachesurfboards.com 

TRIED & TRUSTED 

blanKS 

Family owned and run 

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oUR ConSISTEnCy 

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Call US on (07) 5534 3777 


PADDLING 

EFFICIENTLY 

THE SCIENCE AND SIX PADDLING TIPS 

There is a growing base of sports-specific analysis and research on sports including surfing. Better knowledge 

facilitates better performance, improved coaching methodology and better training which influences injury risk. 

Australia has been a strong performer in swimming over the past two decades and much of the better research 

related to paddling stems from swimming research. 

WORDS: PETER HOGG | PHOTOS: COURTESY OF HIVE SWIMWEAR, hiveswimwear.com 

PADDLING - HOW MUCH 

DO WE DO? 

Research from Western Australia 

specifically related to surfing has shown 

that a surfer paddles approximately 85% of 

‘active time’ or 60% of ‘total time in water’. 

Over an average surf time of 2.5 hours, a 

surfer therefore paddles for 1.5 hours and at 

best spends 15 minutes riding waves. Given 

that most surfers only surf 1.5 - 3 times per 

week on average, which is quite sporadic, 

and considering there is such a high volume 

of paddling involved, it is understandable 

that there is a high incidence of shoulder 

problems affecting up to 60% of surfers. 

WHY FOCUS ON 

PADDLING BETTER? 

Improved technique and fitness can result in 

• paddling with less paddling 

expenditure (resulting in more waves, 

less fatigue and longer surfs) 

• paddling faster (resulting in gaining 

better priority, catching quicker waves 

at the take off and better positioning 

by being more responsive) 

• less injuries 

THE SCIENCE OF 

PADDLING - RESISTANCE 

AND PROPULSION : 

There are key principles of physics that 

explain the reasoning behind modifying and 

correcting paddling technique. 

• Speed fluctuation when paddling 

creates more drag or resistance 

so it is better to continue inertia 

when paddling.( see ‘front quadrant’ 

stroke technique to make major 

improvements in consistent speed) 

• Drag is also increased by poor body 

position which affects the horizontal 

board tilt (increasing ‘vertical form 

drag’) and excessive head movement 

and/or body sway affects streamlining 

and increases ‘vortex drag’ 

• Propulsion is optimised by pressing 

more efficiently on ‘still water’ (see 

technique advice re performing an ‘S’ 

Stroke) 

DRAG 

‘FRONT QUADRANT PADDLING’ 

Front 

Quadrant 

‘WATERLINE’ 

Extended arm reach = faster paddling 

CATCH WAVES 

with high elbows 

SIX KEY METHODS TO 

IMPROVE PADDLING : 

1. HEAD STILL: Kelly Slater is 

a testament to this - just watch him! 

A steady head position will reduce 

lateral sway down the long body axis 

and will reduce ‘drag’. 

2. HIGH ELBOW ON 

‘CATCH PHASE’: The ‘catch 

phase’ is the start of the paddling 

stroke. Consistent with the physics 

of swimming, greater propulsion 

is achieved with a high elbow arm 

entry position. A high elbow arm 

position at catch increases surface 

area during the pull and also prolongs 

the effectiveness of the stroke. Some 

swim coaches refer to catching the 

water over an imaginary barrel to 

acquire the right position. Dropping 

the elbow during the pull phase, on 

the other hand, is inefficient and a 

common error. 

3. FRONT QUADRANT 

PADDLING: We know from 

studies that a ‘longer vessel, boat or 

surfboard’ travels faster! Ensuring 

that one arm is always in the ‘front 

quadrant’ (in front of the plane of 

the shoulder- see diagram) will 

effectively increase vessel or body 

length and thus improve board speed 

by increasing ‘waterline length’. No 

wonder elite swimmers focus on 

reaching long as a race strategy! 

Swimmers also use a ‘catch up stroke’ 

to practise keeping a hand in front of 

the shoulders for longer. 

104 


Tradition, Style &Soul. 

T O P O F T H E H I L L 

Clarence St, Yamba (02) 6645 8362 

WWW.THEPLANKSHOP.COM.AU 

4. HORIZONTAL 

BALANCE: Try to optimise 

the horizontal plane of the board 

and consider all critical variables 

such as head position(fwd/bwd), 

back arch and leg posture. All of 

these variables change the ‘sweet 

spot’ regarding the horizontal plane. 

It is generally considered better if 

you can move forward on the board 

without sinking the board tip as this 

is faster. Test the board tilt as you 

paddle by placing head down and 

arms forward and adjust your body 

position up and down the board 

until you are comfortably balanced 

as forward as possible while you 

paddle. Most surf coaches see poor 

horizontal board tilt as the most 

common error amongst learner to 

intermediate surfers. 

5. ‘S’ STROKE: To increase 

propulsion an ‘S’ stroke should be 

utilised. This refers to the path of 

the hand underwater. Effectively 

the hand follows a ‘S’ which results 

in the hand moving diagonally 

through the stroke rather than 

purely straight backwards. By 

moving the hand/arm in this path, 

the hand surface finds ‘new water’ 

(water not already under inertia) 

and this results in better force 

production per pull. This ‘S’ stroke 

also recruits stronger and varied 

muscles creating better efficiency. 

Coaches refer to ‘feeling the water’ 

and this is an excellent verbal 

queue for improving this skill. 

6. SLIGHT BODY ROLL: 

When paddling efficiently, there 

is a slight body roll through the 

long body/board axis. This can be 

initiated via the hips and helps to 

clear the recovery arm. The body 

roll also utilises trunk ‘counterrotation’ 

which improves core force 

and stability. Explore slight rotation 

of the body/board through the hip 

and engage the core as an exercise 

to gaining a stronger stroke. 

Paddling is complex biomechanically but 

knowledge can improve precision and 

reduce injury. Paddling is a major part 

of surfing time and optimising this will 

affect your overall surf satisfaction. 

There are strength exercises and 

mobility programs available from sports 

physiotherapists with an interest in 

swimming/surfing to optimise the ‘catch 

phase’ and ‘S’ stroke. There are other 

exercises to improve shoulder/ trunk 

strength when paddling and swimming in 

particular. 

Aloha. 

Peter Hogg 

Peter Hogg 

Noosa Sports and Spinal 

Physiotherapist 

Olympic Winter Institute - Sports 

Physiotherapist (1997 - 2016) 

Ex Swim Coach and Olympic 

Physiotherapist for 2000 Sydney 

Olympics Aquatic Centre 

(avid surfer) 


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106 


SMORGASBOARDER

SUN 

SAFETY 

WITH SUN ZAPPER 

MALT 

KICKIN’ IT 

OLD SCHOOL! 

Remember when you were a little grom. 

On a hot, sunny day you would grab your 

bike and meet your mates at the park or the 

beach… but just before you slipped out the 

front door your mum would grab you by the 

collar and slather sunscreen all over your 

face, not missing a freckle. Maybe your 

mum was even more old school and would 

whip out the white zinc, cover your nose, 

tops of your ears and your bottom lip with 

a thick layer of it. 

These days too many people forget to 

cover those at-risk areas and get cooked! 

So maybe we should kick it old school 

and be more generous with the zinc and 

sunscreen on our faces - especially the 

ears, nose, cheeks and lips. Because let’s 

face it [excuse the pun] we don’t want our 

best-looking assets all red and sore. Not 

to mention peeling skin and the risk of 

premature ageing… yikes! 

Now that you’re not living with good old 

mum (or maybe you are, nothing wrong 

with that) you need to take care of your 

face, so check out the Sun Zapper range 

with SPF 50+ Sunscreens and Zinc sticks 

that have 4 hours water resistance. Let’s 

not forget those luscious lips as the folks 

at Sun Zapper have got you covered with 

SPF 30+ Lip balm. 

The Sun Zapper range has you covered with 

its Zinc-based Sunscreens and Zinc sticks, all 

Aussie made. Find Sun Zapper at your local surf 

store, Woolworths, Big W, IGA and FoodWorks. 

www.sunzapper.com.au 

In my previous column I talked about the 

importance of using good quality water in 

brewing. In this issue I’ll give you a bit of 

a run down on malt. 

In order to make beer we need to find 

something for our trusty yeast to chew on, 

introducing... MALT. Malting is a process 

whereby a grain is steeped in water, and 

seeing as it is a living seed, the plant 

starts to germinate and develop a little 

rootlet. During this germination the energy 

reserves (that the plant was storing for the 

first phase of growth) are converted into 

more utilisable forms. 

At this stage the maltster will heat the 

grain up in order to kill the seed and 

dehydrate it so that its reactions are 

stopped in their tracks. Pale malt is only 

heated to low temperatures in order 

to keep the colour light. As it’s a great 

source of brewing sugars, it forms the 

basis of most beers. However, in order to 

create those richer caramel-like flavours 

you might find in an amber or pale ale, 

grain is heated whilst still wet so that 

some of the sugars caramelize within the 

grain. To make a dark coloured beer with 

some roasty/coffee/stout-like flavours, 

grain is dried and heated to very high 

temperatures causing it to blacken. 

Barley is packed full of enzymes that break 

carbohydrates into sugars and is therefore 

the most malted grain and the basis of 

most beers. However wheat, rye and oats 

are also commonly malted grains. These 

different grains have their pro’s and cons, 

and were initially used in areas where 

they were plentiful. Wheat beers (such as 

Hefeweizen’s) generally have an incredible 

head, using oats will make a beer creamy 

and rye often imparts a dry spiciness. 

At the brewery we mix various grains in 

different proportions to create the flavour 

profiles characteristic of our beers. For 

instance, our Pale Ale consists of 82% 

Pale malts, 12% Caramelized malts and 

6% Wheat malt. 

Next up: HOPS! 

Alastair Gillespie holds a Bachelors 

of Science in Microbiology, is a madkeen 

surfer and the Head Brewer at 

Byron Bay Brewery. 

byronbaybrewery.com.au 

Jervis Bay Stand Up Paddle 

Lessons, Tours, Board Hire 

www.jervisbaystanduppaddle.com.au 

0403 354 716 


MOVIES 

SURF FILM REVIEW BY DAVE SWAN 

STORM RIDERS 

25 TH ANNIVERSARY EDITION 

CLASSIC SURF COMPANY 

...wax created with the environmentally 

conscious surfer in mind. 

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Released in 1982, digitally 

remastered and re-released in 

2007 to celebrate the movie’s 25th 

anniversary, Storm Riders is a film 

by David Lourie, Jack McCoy and 

Dick Hoole. It features the likes of 

Mark Richards, Wayne Lynch, Gerry 

Lopez, Shaun Thomson, Rabbit 

Bartholomew, Simon Anderson, 

Peter McCabe, Tom Carroll, Joe 

Engel and Thornton Fallander surfing 

Sumatra, Java, Bali, Africa, Hawaii 

and Australia. 

It has got to be one of the greatest 

surf movies of all time. If you don’t 

as yet have it in your collection, it is 

a must. Further cementing it in my 

list of all-time favourites is the fact, 

having recently met Dick Hoole, he is 

such a down-to-earth, easy-to-talkto, 

nice bloke. I really do get blown 

away at times with how genuine so 

many fair-dinkum legends of the surf 

scene are. I am an even bigger fan 

now than before. 

What takes this movie to another 

level again, in my opinion, is 

the soundtrack. If you like Australian 

pub rock from the 80s you will love 

this: Sunnyboys, Mi-Sex, Jo Jo Zep, 

Mondo Rock, Moving Pictures, The 

Church, Split Enz, Aussie Crawl, 

Models and the Little River Band. 

Watching the film again at the 

opening of the Noosa Film Festival 

rekindled my love for the movie and 

brought back a wave of childhood 

memories, back when I had hair, a 

long, long time ago. 

There is a bonus sequence on the 

remastered version of that very 

special place called “Kong’s Island”. 

Sunny Coast surfers and any who 

have visited our fair shores will know 

what I am talking about. 

Buy it for a friend or loved one this 

Christmas. Storm Riders is the 

perfect gift for any salty surfer. 

Available at any decent surf shop. 

(Believe it or not, Dick still does the 

rounds visiting all the surf shops 

along the East Coast distributing 

his range of movies and photos 

under the name of the Classic Surf 

Company). 

Ondi (Underground Surf) with Dick Hoole 

108 


NOOSA 

FILM 

FEST 

KICKS 

OFF 

CLOSEOUT: LIVE IT UP 

The VIP event that kicked off the inaugural Noosa 

Surf Film Festival in October was held at the 

Underground Surf Emporium & Cafe in Hastings 

Street Noosa. 

Louise Clark and Amelia Shaw were the ladies 

behind the Noosa Surf Film Festival, created to 

showcase the prestigious talent in surf filmmaking 

and entries into the festival were outstanding. 

The VIP night at the Underground was a haven 

for filmmakers as they mingled with likeminded 

surfing souls and were treated to a special 

compilation of Greg Huglin’s works showcasing 

new footage featuring Dean Brady, Matt Cuddihy 

and a heap of other talented surfers along with 

older footage from his feature films including 

Shark Park, Fantasia and Hawaiian Watermen. 

The ever-charming Dick Hoole also spoke with 

the crowd about the early days working with Jack 

McCoy and the equipment they started out with. 

He completed the night with a special showing 

of his movie Stormriders. Dick is also well known 

for the well-loved surf movie Tubular Swells and 

took some of the most iconic surf photography of 

the seventies including elusive shots of Michael 

Peterson surfing. 

Filmakers Tom Wegener, Andrew Boch, Andy 

Staly, Mark Waters and many others mingled 

through the surfboards into the Underground 

surfers lounge to watch the special screenings on 

the big screen. 


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SMORGASBOARDER

“THE EVENT IS 

DESIGNED TO 

PROMOTE FUN, 

HEALTHY LIFESTYLES 

AND THE SPORT 

OF SURFING FOR 

CHILDREN ON THE 

SUNSHINE COAST.” 

CLOSEOUT: LIVE IT UP 

Pacific PULSE 

Pacific Lutheran College have been running the 

grommets surf event engaging kids between 8 

and 13 years for the past 9 years. The event is 

designed to promote fun, healthy lifestyles and 

the sport of surfing for children on the Sunshine 

Coast. 

5 schools in the Caloundra region, enjoying the 

20-heat event run in conjunction with Diploma of 

Events students from TAFE East Coast. The day 

showcased amazingly talented up and coming local 

surfers with Buddina Primary School crowned 

the winning team on the day. 

This year’s Pacific Pulse annual surf competition 

was held on the 20th of October at Kings Beach, 

Caloundra. 51 children participated from the 

A special thanks to our sponsors 

of the event: LKI - Loose Kid 

Industries and Smorgasboarder. 


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Rail Tape & Leash Plugs 

IN THE BACK YARD 

Don’t you just hate people like this? Earlier this 

year I undertook a wooden surfboard-building 

course with the good folks from Tree to Sea. You 

may recall we featured the experience in our 

Autumn issue this year. 

Pro Teck Fins 

Well one of the guys who undertook the 

course with me was Sean Cooney, who runs an 

architectural practice in Fitzroy North, Melbourne. 

He seemed a nice bloke and appeared pretty 

comfortable with all the woodworking equipment. 

By all accounts when the workshop was finished 

his board looked a cracker. All Sean had to do 

when he got home was tart it up and seal it with 

some marine grade varnish. He sent me some 

photos of the finished product prior to us going 

to print with this issue and bugger me, I get so 

envious when people take it to the next level. 

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info@watermanssurf.com.au 


CLOSEOUT: ALOHA BARRY 

SHARKS LINKED TO 

BEACH TERROR 

PLOT... 

IT’S 

TIME TO DIE! 

114 



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Kirra Surf – Corner Gold Coast Hwy and Creek St, Kirra Q 4225 

Photo: Richard Kotch 

116 


SMORGASBOARDER

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