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In Saudi Arabia 1997-2003 illustrated

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IN SAUDI ARABIA <strong>1997</strong>-<strong>2003</strong><br />

Contents<br />

...................................................................................................................................................................... 1<br />

IN SAUDI ARABIA <strong>1997</strong>-<strong>2003</strong> ........................................................................................................................ 2<br />

Contents ........................................................................................................................................................ 2<br />

Our move to <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> ......................................................................................................................... 2<br />

First impressions of Jeddah, the hot and humid city ................................................................................ 4<br />

From a group of Bedouins to the <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>n State ........................................................................... 16<br />

From oil wells to international oil trade ................................................................................................. 24<br />

Petro wealth’s effects on society ............................................................................................................ 39<br />

Finnish art in Jeddah ............................................................................................................................... 51<br />

Visits and consultations .......................................................................................................................... 53<br />

The Arms Dealer Adnan Khashoggi ......................................................................................................... 62<br />

On the role of women in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> ................................................................................................ 64<br />

The desert, excursions and tours ............................................................................................................ 67<br />

The Desert is beautiful ........................................................................................................................ 72<br />

On and in the Red Sea ............................................................................................................................. 78<br />

"This is <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>. Take it or leave it” ................................................................................................ 82<br />

<strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>'s neighbors were "stepping countries". ............................................................................ 87<br />

Our move to <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong><br />

We lived through the years 1967-77 in Frankfurt-am-Main, where my mission was to promote<br />

Finnish products and establish Finnish companies on the German market. I had set up there an<br />

office called “Finnish Export Center” and worked at the same time as Consul General for Finland.<br />

Next, I was assigned as Ambassador to the Kingdom of <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> and, at the same time, to five<br />

neighboring countries.


3<br />

<strong>In</strong> October 1977 we filled our cars’ trunks and rear seats with essential goods and headed towards<br />

the <strong>Arabia</strong>n Peninsula and the South. Our daughter had already left to the West. She moved to<br />

America to study. We drove in two cars from Frankfurt over the Alps to Monte Carlo, where we<br />

stayed overnight. The city was impressive, what I had been waiting for. We did not go to the<br />

casino to place our bets, but instead marveled at the foreground flowers. Our dog, however, was<br />

driven away from all over. Our drive continued.<br />

<strong>In</strong> Venice we wanted to show the city to our sons, back then a more impressive city was hard to<br />

find. Unfortunately, the city of Venice sinks deeper<br />

and deeper, so severe these days that the flooding<br />

may well someday become fatal. From Trieste and<br />

Venice operated the Finnish company’s YIT Ro-Ro<br />

ship line to Jeddah. They had agreed to carry our<br />

sons, our dog and our cars. The ferry line, which was<br />

using the roll-on roll-off system to carry containers<br />

directly to the port of Jeddah was one of YIT's<br />

success secrets at a time when the usual ships were<br />

waiting on the Jeddah red for months. A time when<br />

such a cheap product as cement was unloaded from<br />

ships by helicopter. When circumstances changed<br />

the ferry line turned out to be a less productive<br />

investment.<br />

<strong>In</strong> the vicinity of Venice occurred, to an unknown<br />

thief, an incident, which I assume became<br />

permanently etched in his mind. We had, of course,<br />

reserved for our cars, which were full of goods, in<br />

advance, two garage places. When we arrived, we<br />

found only one. Our elder son Joakim had been<br />

driving my wife's VW Beetle, nicknamed the "Silver Cloud”. It stayed overnight on the street and<br />

was broken into during the night. On the back seat was a big cooler, where the intruder first<br />

probably pushed his hand after breaking the side window of the car. <strong>In</strong> the cooler was the<br />

terrarium filled with Salamanders, lizards and frogs, the property of our younger son, which, after<br />

a very superficial examination of the female veterinarian in Germany, also were together with<br />

their documents on way to <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>. The thief had not done anything else in the car other<br />

than opened this cooler box. Even though I do not have a similar experience, I am able to imagine<br />

what it feels like when in the dark night you push your hand inside the car in a big bag, looking<br />

for something of value, and you feel little reptiles move on your hand. Maybe even biting you?<br />

The thief must have fled immediately. I hope he was so shocked that he chose an honest<br />

occupation in the future.


4<br />

<strong>In</strong> due time the ship went out and our sons traveled through the Suez Canal to Jeddah. My wife<br />

and I returned from Trieste back to Venice, flew to Rome and from there via Cairo to Jeddah.<br />

During the trip nothing very odd happened. The oddest was the security check out from Cairo. <strong>In</strong><br />

front of us in the queue was a man whose hand baggage X-ray revealed a revolver. The security<br />

officers were excited to find a gun and dug it out from his bag. I watched the gun too. It seemed<br />

to be a fully usable impressive “Smith & Wesson” revolver. To my surprise, it was given back to<br />

the passenger who pushed it back into his bag. I do not believe that the gun was a toy. My wife<br />

was startled and feared a hi-jacking of the plane, and I was left thinking about the matter. Having<br />

later become better acquainted with the regional culture and local habits, I developed a suitable<br />

response. A small bribe, a “baksheesh”, was one of the possibilities. I myself believed more in the<br />

explanation that the security officers had been given the instruction to investigate via the X-ray<br />

scanner whether passengers had weapons. They had, meanwhile, not been instructed on what<br />

do with a gun, in the event that they found one. So obviously they just gave it back to the owner.<br />

We were, having been in China and Germany, again entering a new culture with its own religion,<br />

traditions and behavior rules. I felt thirst to learn also from this desert culture and to see how it<br />

was influenced by the sudden surge of enrichment following the rapid oil pice increase.<br />

First impressions of Jeddah, the hot and humid city


5<br />

The Red Sea port city of Jeddah, always fairly moist and somewhat hot, really impressed us.<br />

Jeddah had been and continues to be for millions of pilgrims on the Hajj pilgrimage the last stage<br />

prior to Mecca, a city closed for Christians. It was November, but still hot and sticky. The sound<br />

of crickets was mixed in with the sound of construction cranes and of car drivers always and<br />

everywhere using their horns. Most of the streets were pot-holed and unsurfaced. There were<br />

no sidewalks, no street signs and no street addresses at all. The Stench of raw sewage wafted<br />

throughout the city. People discarded their waste on the street in front of the houses, where it<br />

was subsequently left to decay. Sanitation was provided with care by goats, who roamed the<br />

streets and waste mounds. Tree branches had a lot of foliage in many places. However, it was<br />

not always advisable to park your car in the shade of a tree, because goats would therein enjoy<br />

the pleasure of the leaves from the tree branches, as able climbers climbed on car roofs, including<br />

a great number of new Mercedes and Cadillacs. Using the car roofs as platforms the as also the<br />

goats reached the branches to eat the foliage. Goat hooves left very persistent prints on the cars.<br />

There was not much foliage left after the visitation of the hungry goats.<br />

When watching camels, frequently called "desert ships", it does not easily come to mind that<br />

camels eat absolutely everything. When somebody is picnicking and places food stuff on straw<br />

matting, and a camel enters the scene, it will definitely eat the food, but it will also eat the straw<br />

mats. On the waste dumps around <strong>Saudi</strong> cities it turned out that the camels are waste eaters.<br />

They were moving around on the waste mound eating everything that was consumable. The oil<br />

dollars had quickly increased the volume of waste. The goats were sharing the meals with the<br />

camels. There is no greater misery that comes to sight than the desert ship eating on a waste


6<br />

dump, and there was more to see on these waste dumps. Packs of wild dogs. These wild dog<br />

packs were running here and there. Whether the dogs were wild or feral is a totally different<br />

thing. A few decades back in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> all the dogs had been shot due to rabies. Now, the wild<br />

dog packs were almost threatening. At least they were, in a very effective way, a hindrance to<br />

jogging. It is not nice to run bare legged while being chased by a pack of wild dogs, which is all<br />

the time getting closer, no matter how hard you run.<br />

People were in a hurry. Everyone worked with their sleeves rolled up. When I say everyone I<br />

mean expatriates from abroad. The first American-type supermarkets, located in primitive<br />

storage areas, had been born and were in constant use. Men in short-sleeved shirts committed<br />

to these locations in their food shopping errands. Some women in long long-sleeved dresses were<br />

among them. A woman could not move around alone in the city, the Law prohibited it. A woman<br />

was not allowed to drive and is still not at the time of my writing these memoirs.<br />

The Hajj pilgrimage season was by coincidence just around the time of our arrival in November<br />

1977. Millions of pilgrims through the years have had to endure the stiflingly hot weather of the<br />

Holy City of Mecca’s port city Jeddah, The night filled the sky with bright stars and brought to<br />

Jeddah some moderate relief. Large airliners carrying pilgrims roared in a continuous stream<br />

above Jeddah’s brightness. Against an exceptionally bright sky it was indeed interesting to watch<br />

these planes. There was no reason to dig out ones camera. Taking photos was absolutely<br />

forbidden. As the airport in 1977 still was in the heart of the city, the planes were, during the<br />

night, a serious disturbance, as they frequently landed directly over our house depending on wind<br />

direction.<br />

Our removal lift arrived during the pilgrimage season, a few days before the 60th anniversary of<br />

the independence of Finland. The<br />

unpacking was managed in a hurry,<br />

because we had to organize a big<br />

party. Actually I was at work in my<br />

office and the unpacking was under<br />

my wife's control. The Embassy’s<br />

caretaker Ali interpreted to the<br />

movers where the table or cabinet<br />

should be placed. My wife became<br />

frustrated when Ali would, every once<br />

in a while, disappear somewhere<br />

discreet. It turned out that Ali would<br />

run to the Embassy to my Office in<br />

order to obtain confirmation to where<br />

the Cabinet had to stand. A woman’s instruction could not be the final word. <strong>In</strong> our family it has


7<br />

always been so when moving, at all other times my wife has ordered where the cabinet should<br />

stand. Our family has always been on an equal footing. This is how equality should be interpreted.<br />

<strong>In</strong> Jeddah’s hot, sticky climate with the temperature usually between 30 °C and 40 ° C (85 o F to<br />

105 o F), sometimes more, life must have been terrible before the invention of air conditioning.<br />

Night temperatures were about the same as day temperatures. The hot season was about eleven<br />

months, between August and October at its worst. Now that air conditioners had been invented,<br />

not everybody had them. Often, even if one had them, the service would not work. Power failures<br />

were frequent. Sometimes short but frequently long. Without maintenance and electricity, air<br />

conditioning equipment did not work, so we were lucky enough to experience the horrors of<br />

earlier times.<br />

The water supply situation was the same. Naturally all water, whether from cisterns on the roof,<br />

or in the garden, was warm. It also had to be boiled before drinking. The water pipes did normally<br />

not work so water had to be brought by tanker truck. Some of the enterprising but dishonest<br />

traders mixed Red Sea water into the drinking water. It was, of course, clear, but really salty and<br />

not possible to drink. Jeddah built a new water distribution system, but the water supply for the<br />

Embassy continued to be somewhat capricious.<br />

One holiday our family drove to a small diving equipment shop. It was maintained by a German,<br />

named Hagen Schmidt, on the premises of an old Arab house, in a very cramped shop. I went in<br />

with the boys in order to get the compressed air for our diving cylinders. My wife was left to sit<br />

in the car and watched after a moment suspiciously a man with a dark mustache who approached<br />

the car staring at my wife, who already was in a very bad mood. That day there had not arrived<br />

any water, so she had had no opportunity for a morning shower in the hot city. The man,<br />

however, signaled no bad intention. He was the director of a Greek contracting company, named<br />

John Petropoulos, who wanted to thank us for a dinner at our residence. My wife happened to<br />

complain about the matter to him forgetting that his company had carried out the contracts for<br />

Jeddah’s water pipes. Petropoulos took the matter up immediately and said our house was<br />

already connected to the new pipeline system. A plumber would come immediately to check the<br />

connection.


8<br />

The man did not arrive.<br />

That was the rule rather<br />

than the exception in<br />

Jeddah. The Director<br />

called to verify the<br />

matter. It turned out<br />

that the man had gone<br />

to a neighbor's house.<br />

As told earlier there<br />

were no addresses in<br />

Jeddah. The neighboring<br />

house had, surprisingly,<br />

started to receive<br />

water. The plumber<br />

came finally to our<br />

house. Our house had, of course,<br />

already been connected to the<br />

pipeline system. The connection was<br />

OK, but the pipeline were missing.<br />

There was only a few meters’ long<br />

piece. It did not lead to our house. A<br />

good and truthful reason why the<br />

water flow to the house had been<br />

weak. We finally got our pipe, making<br />

life a little bit easier.<br />

<strong>In</strong> the country of <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> actually everything worked, albeit often in its own way. The officials<br />

also worked in their own way. The <strong>In</strong>terpretation of the Law was by no means the same for<br />

everyone. Relationships were very essential. The Law, however, was heavily enforced. <strong>In</strong><br />

particular, the aim was to prevent the illegal residence in the country. This was frequently<br />

committed by persons who arrived with a pilgrimage visa and would then stay in the country,<br />

working without permission. During police raids people were collected in cages on trucks if they<br />

did not have their Residence Permit on their person. For men, of course, there were different<br />

cages than for women.<br />

Once a number of Bedouin police officers with slightly less appropriate literary skills succeeded<br />

in catching a group of shopping women, who did not have a Residence Permit. Among them was<br />

the wife of the Ambassador of Cameroon, who was then the oldest (Doyen) of the Diplomatic<br />

corps. She had of course her red Diplomatic ID card, but it was not recognized by the Bedouin


9<br />

police, they knew only an ordinary Residence Permit. She was put in the cage on the truck and<br />

transported to a place behind bars in a large hall in the harbor together with the other women<br />

waiting for expulsion. When the news finally reached my colleague, the Ambassador of<br />

Cameroon, he drove to the port and got his wife out of the cage, following consultations with the<br />

guards. He was so upset by the incident that he marched to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs to<br />

complain about the behavior. He was asked whether his wife was still in the cage. Hearing that<br />

she was out, they found that everything was in order so the complaint was thereby dealt with.<br />

The <strong>Saudi</strong> Protocol department worked in an original way. On my first visit the head of Protocol,<br />

Sunbul, announced that his office localities were also mine. At any time I wanted to, I could come<br />

and use his office as my own. Prior to my departure from <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> 5 years later, Sunbul spoke<br />

to me repeatedly about the high decoration granted upon me. During my term of office I have<br />

received several high decorations, of which I am proud. This one he spoke of, however, I never<br />

received. It was usual in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> that a positive thought replaced the act. When a <strong>Saudi</strong> was<br />

invited to your home for dinner, he replied pleasantly to happily accept. Whether he actually<br />

arrived was quite a different matter. Already he had been thinking about the issue in a positive<br />

way. If <strong>Saudi</strong>s would arrive upon one’s invitation, they frequently brought their acquaintances,<br />

who were present when the invited pair left for dinner. These habits confused foreigners, for<br />

whom these customs were new. They also explain the reason why in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> we almost<br />

always served a buffet meal, when we invited <strong>Saudi</strong>s.<br />

One attraction in the surroundings of Jeddah was the Tomb of Eve. It was generally said that this<br />

was the tomb of the wife of Adam, Eve, from the Old Testament. The attraction itself was not<br />

very special, but was, in context with the Bible, historically very impressive. This attraction<br />

created problems for the young boy of a relative. The boy told his teacher after his return to<br />

Finland that he had visited Eve’s grave. The teacher found his credibility questionable. The boy<br />

had earlier told the class that Uncle Mohammed had helped him mount the back of a camel. The<br />

first name Mohammed is common in the Arab world.<br />

*


10<br />

Today, the Embassies are located in Riyadh, the capital<br />

of <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>. During my mandate 1977-83 the <strong>Saudi</strong><br />

ministries were in Riyadh. The only exception was the<br />

State Department, which was located in Jeddah as were<br />

all Embassies. The Chancellery of the Finnish Embassy<br />

and the Ambassador’s official residence were in the<br />

same building. It was surrounded by a beautiful garden<br />

with date palm trees, mango trees, banana trees and<br />

other flowering bushes. <strong>In</strong> the courtyard I let set up an air-conditioned Finnish prefabricated<br />

house with three guest rooms. It stood close to the swimming pool with a butane gas heated<br />

Finnish Sauna. The swimming pool water was not too cold. It remained mostly around 36 °C. It<br />

was the same temperature as the Red Sea water around Jeddah throughout the year. The sauna’s<br />

gas heating turned out to be unhealthy. Not so much because of the ionization of the air, but<br />

because of the risk of explosion, so I replaced it with a stove with electric heating. I am a member<br />

of the Sauna-Club of Finland, so I understand the benefits of a wood-fired stove, but collecting<br />

enough wood in a stone and sand filled desert would have required an inordinate amount of time<br />

and expenditure of energy.<br />

To our guests I always recommended a morning swim. One morning I was myself going for a<br />

swim. Our protection, a trained German Shepherd dog, as usual, went out of the door first, and<br />

calmly went on a run towards the swimming pool along the banana plants. From the other<br />

direction came our guest in bathrobe and black shoes, a newspaper in his hand. When seeing the<br />

dog coming he continued directly into the swimming pool in bathrobe and black shoes, the<br />

newspaper still in his hand. Our dog stood at ease, astonished, gazing towards the edge of the<br />

pool. It had run to eagerly greet our guest. It was customary to teach young diplomats that the<br />

Diplomatic dress code always required black socks and shoes. The dress code for swimming pools<br />

allows bare feet.


11<br />

Our dog Edda was friendly but at the same<br />

time an effective protection dog. It did not<br />

bark unnecessarily. Once a <strong>Saudi</strong> dressed<br />

in a white thobe and a black gold-edged<br />

cape erroneously entered through the<br />

wrong door. He did not enter through the<br />

front door of the Embassy, but walked<br />

around the house and entered through the<br />

terrace door into our residence. To meet<br />

him came our dog, step by step looking<br />

into the visitors eyes and presenting her<br />

teeth. The visitor backed against the wall<br />

and the dog came closer, looking into his<br />

eyes. The Arabs do not really like dogs.<br />

Generally they are slightly scared by big<br />

dogs. When our dog came close enough to<br />

the uninvited guest he slithered down<br />

along the wall. Some family members<br />

came and expressed their regret about<br />

what had happened. The dog left and so<br />

did the <strong>Saudi</strong>, who had mistakenly entered<br />

through the wrong door.<br />

Next to our bedrooms, by the corner of the<br />

house, rested a big tank. It was slowly corroding in the humid, hot climate, like all steel does in<br />

this environment. I found out what this, more than a meter in length and about one meter in<br />

diameter sized, pressure tank contained. It contained liquid petroleum gas (LPG). I got it out from<br />

the compound before the, in due course, likely explosion, which could have destroyed the whole<br />

house.<br />

<strong>In</strong> the house I saw for the first time electrical wires knotted together by hand. Naturally it is a<br />

possible way to connect electricity lines, but it is not customary in Finland. Before our arrival in<br />

our house there had been a small fire. Following that I found that telephone lines and electricity<br />

lines had been connected with each other. I had these connections immediately cut and replaced.<br />

My graduation in engineering was to be a benefit to the health of the family. Nobody was ever<br />

electrocuted.<br />

The Embassy’s local all in all was the Sudanese Ali. To everything he said "no problem" and took<br />

care of the matter in question, though in his own way. Immediately upon our arrival, we heard<br />

of the Finnish Embassy’s “Sudanese mafia”. It turned out that the local staff had always been


12<br />

hired by Ali. Upon my arrival, the embassy was only a couple of years old. Ali had always hired<br />

the Sudanese. We let the habit continue after trying for a short time with a Somali. He appeared<br />

to be a good and eager to work, but was forced by the "mafia" into isolation and was finally<br />

smoked out from the house.<br />

Only in respect of the driver of the car, we made an exception. Our Sudanese drivers possessed<br />

a variety of strange, unique features. Good driving skills were not included in these features.<br />

Once, our driver was waiting with my wife in the car behind a stop sign, but took off and drove<br />

directly onto the main road in front of a Mercedes. The driver of the fast approaching Mercedes<br />

was skillful enough to brake so that personal damage was avoided. As this type of incident<br />

continued thereafter we hired a Yemeni called Mohammed to be our driver. The name<br />

Mohammed is really not rare. If it was not somebody’s first name, it was most often the second.<br />

Once Mohammed listened on the backyard, as my wife, in a raised voice, guided our son, who<br />

had done something extraordinarily stupid and forbidden. My wife said to Mohammed that her<br />

mission as a mother was to raise our children. Mohammed said that he had been six years old<br />

when he came with his father from Yemen. The father gave him to a <strong>Saudi</strong> family as a tea-boy.<br />

No one had ever brought him up. He hoped that he would also be sufficiently raised with us.<br />

The opportunity arrived when Mohammed had to drive my wife to a wedding. My wife observed,<br />

that Mohammed was “under the influence”. A woman was not allowed to drive and there were<br />

no others available. Therefore Mohammed had to drive while being carefully supervised by my<br />

wife. <strong>In</strong> a country where alcohol was completely forbidden, there was not a single Law prohibiting<br />

drunk driving, as there was no alcohol available, so one could get drunk. When they arrived at<br />

the wedding my wife commenced the upbringing, ordering Mohammed to sleep during the<br />

wedding. Because the wedding was long Mohammed became fit again. Mohammed promised<br />

after returning, as well as to Madame and to Allah in this order, that his becoming inebriated<br />

would never happen again.<br />

The ancient Egyptians worshiped cats. Today they are everywhere in Egypt and also on the other<br />

side of the Red Sea in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>. It has already been mentioned that my wife liked cats, and<br />

so we made space in our beautiful garden for more than thirty. My wife had given a name to each<br />

cat and gave them food also. Because cats have claws they were not allowed to enter our<br />

residence. All the cats knew their names and came individually when my wife called for them.<br />

The staff here did not consider her a witch, as was the case in China, but looked at her as being<br />

closer to Allah, because she could talk to the animals. This assessment was also due to our<br />

German shepherd dog Edda, who spoke only German when we arrived, but quickly learned Arabic<br />

also.


13<br />

The dog as well as the cats guarded their<br />

territory. Strange cats were not tolerated<br />

on our territory and the same applied to<br />

humans. Strange roaches, presumably,<br />

were tolerated. <strong>In</strong> the sticky, hot Jeddah<br />

there was no lack of roaches. These insects<br />

were running around through both<br />

appropriate and inappropriate places, and<br />

had no shortage of space. Numerous efforts<br />

to the destroy them ended in an ultimate<br />

victory for the cockroaches. Already the<br />

first night we spent in our residence left a<br />

memory of them. My wife stood up from<br />

the bed and took a few barefoot steps.<br />

Every step resulted in the sound of<br />

flattening roaches. My wife decided to<br />

leave the country immediately. I persuaded<br />

her to settle by saying that no aircraft left<br />

Jeddah during the night. <strong>In</strong> the morning she<br />

had somewhat calmed down. She stayed in<br />

Jeddah for a period of five years, which I<br />

was quite happy with. I was not happy with<br />

the cockroaches either.<br />

Machinery was used by the authorities to decrease the excess insects. DDT was spread by plane<br />

over the whole of the city at regular intervals. If it really was DDT I do not know, but so it was<br />

claimed everywhere. The same DDT-spray was spread by tank trucks. If the views on the toxicity<br />

of the substance, which are spread in our society, are correct, then this text has been written by<br />

an already deceased gentleman.<br />

One day there was a loud noise in one corner of our garden. The cats were angry. There was an<br />

intrusion into the territory. My wife went to take a look and found our gardener, who had in his<br />

hand a blue-gray rat-like small animal, with very inflamed eyes. My wife took care of this poor<br />

small animal, a small kitten. The kitten was a boy and was given the name Schröder, taken from<br />

the comic Charlie. With care and attention the kitten grew stronger and the inflammation<br />

disappeared.<br />

The cat was the only one allowed to move into the area of our bedroom and bathroom in the<br />

house. It turned out the boy kitten was a girl and the name was changed to Natasha Schröder,<br />

but only the second half of the name was ever used. The cat was, with its green eyes, of Russian<br />

Blue race or, at least, an identical mutation. It accompanied us to Finland and later to Germany,


14<br />

where its life-cycle ended. Schroeder lived inside the house and the other cats remained outside.<br />

All the windows were equipped with net-screens, but still Schroeder became occasionally<br />

pregnant.<br />

For this we found two reasons. <strong>In</strong> the mornings I went out with our dog for a swim. The dog did<br />

not swim in the pool. On the way back a smart boy cat Sebastian developed the habit of hiding<br />

beneath the dog and so being unobserved through the door. As soon as he came in he jumped<br />

on a surface and froze in place. If I headed my gaze in the direction I must have thought he was<br />

a decoration piece.<br />

The other reason for Schroeder's pregnancy were our sons. When we were away they arranged<br />

male company for Schröder if she was interested. Animal lovers will appreciate our sons more<br />

than ourselves although we took care of and fed our cats. One of the kittens was also blue-gray<br />

and with green eyes and received the honor of flying with us to Finland. To our grandchildren this<br />

boy cat, who was named "Rats", became as close as Schroeder.<br />

*<br />

We had arrived in Jeddah just before the Finnish <strong>In</strong>dependence Day. I wanted to do something<br />

for the benefit of the hard-working Finns there, so we held a reception in the garden. All Finns<br />

working in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> were invited. Several hundred Finns were working there in construction,<br />

as experts, as nurses and in other positions. We served also illegally imported liquor and could<br />

really not complain about the level of consumption that evening.<br />

My wife, however, had other complaints. On the day before the reception the House was cut off<br />

from both the electrical and the water supply. Overnight the YIT Company’s (a leading Finnish<br />

construction company, the first building in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>) reconnected electricity and installed a<br />

new water pump, so the kitchen could work again on <strong>In</strong>dependence Day. All hostesses and hosts<br />

have not always had experiences as exciting as we did during those years, even though they also<br />

have had to endure several serving difficulties which in our case I do not even mention here.<br />

I shall mention however a chef that we had to employ just before one of the official dinners as<br />

our earlier chef had left suddenly. He had some time ago worked as a chef to the Ambassador of<br />

<strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> in Brussels. He was a Sudanese. His wife was British. This surprised slightly my wife<br />

until the chef presented to her a photograph. His British wife was as black as the color of the skin<br />

of our chef. She was born in London and had received a British passport.<br />

We heard a loud racket from the kitchen just moments into the dinner party. The reason was our<br />

drunk chef passing out among the tableware. Apparently he had, when pouring Sherry into the<br />

soup, poured an amount excessively into his own mouth. We had to quickly give up on this chef.<br />

We had had to hire him quickly. His predecessor, interrupting his cooking, had begun to run<br />

behind one of the other staff members with a carving knife in his hand, with the aim of hitting<br />

him in the back. After this experience, nobody was prepared to work with him so we employed<br />

a replacement.


15<br />

*<br />

A little prior to Christmas, we invited the Ambassador to the United States, a John West, to us for<br />

dinner. Through the German steel industry an entrepreneur called Willy Korff we had a<br />

connection to John West, who had come to <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> a few months ahead of us. John West<br />

was a lawyer, who had previously served as the Governor to the State of South Carolina. He was<br />

a good friend of then President Jimmy Carter. The cause for the dinner was the inspection of the<br />

US Embassy. The inspectors usually wanted to meet with Heads of Missions of other countries.<br />

We were told that one of the inspectors was accompanied by Finnish fiancé. When we arrived,<br />

we met this inspector, whose name was Albert Williams. Al was his nick name, which he asked<br />

us to use. With him was his fiancé Armi Kuusela, whose previous husband Gil Hilario had died of<br />

a heart attack two years earlier (Armi Kuusela was the first Finnish Miss Universe).<br />

During dinner I was sitting next to Al’s fiancé. She was still very beautiful and well-dressed. Armi<br />

made a deep impression on me in her behavior and her ability to control the one opposite to her,<br />

an exceptionally wealthy and very self-conscious <strong>Saudi</strong> businessman under the name of Gaith<br />

Pharaon. Pharaon boasted about his family’s business aircraft. He was showcasing about his<br />

Boeing-jet, which had developed an engine disturbance on its last flight from Jeddah to Paris,<br />

forcing an emergency landing in Algiers. Pharaon claimed that he had used his radio telephone<br />

to order to Algiers the second family jet, which quickly carried him onwards to Paris. Armi was<br />

not impressed by this or other wealth emphasizing stories. She asked after the story, in a<br />

courteous manner, how many hours Pharaon had been made late upon arrival in Paris.<br />

Of course we invited Armi and her fiancé to our home for another party. I was sitting at the dinner<br />

opposite her. The discussion moved into the exchange of opinions about whether it is easy or<br />

difficult to stop smoking. I said it was easy and extinguished my cigarette. It took a long time<br />

before my family discovered that I had stopped smoking. I have not smoked a cigarette since.<br />

Although at the time I met Armi frequently. I have not met her since and I have not had an<br />

opportunity to tell her about my last cigarette. I appreciated Armi, who even in this country made<br />

an impact as a Finnish woman, and who was able to control the discussion even with ardent and<br />

characteristically challenging discussion partners.<br />

Al called my wife to thank us and asked whether there was anything that my wife longed for<br />

when preparing for Christmas here in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>. My wife said that she longed for nothing. Al<br />

answered that probably my wife anyhow longed for a Christmas ham. That’s what the Finns eat<br />

for Christmas. There is absolutely no pork meat in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> and you are not able to bring it<br />

to the country. My wife laughed and said that it is not possible to cater to that longing in <strong>Saudi</strong><br />

<strong>Arabia</strong>. The next day Al brought us a ham. Our Muslim chef was particularly horrified. He calmed<br />

down when my wife informed him that she would herself prepare the ham.


16<br />

From a group of Bedouins to the <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>n State<br />

<strong>In</strong> Europe very little was known about the <strong>Arabia</strong>n Peninsula for a long time. Before I moved to<br />

<strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> I had tried to find information about the country. <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> was a nomad country<br />

until as a result of industrial development its crude oil reserves turned out to be valuable and oil<br />

production became the main source of income for the country. The second major source of<br />

income to the <strong>Saudi</strong>s were the holy cities of Islam, Mecca and Medina. Pilgrims arrived each year,<br />

first thousands, later hundreds of thousands, finally millions. The title Hajj is a testimony of a<br />

performed pilgrimage and has always been respected in the countries of the Islamic world. Hajj<br />

is a corner stone of the religion. Still in the 1970s, the country was poor and nomadism the comon<br />

trend. The country had already grown an important merchant class to the side of the ruling Al<br />

Saud family.<br />

*<br />

The name Arab was originally used for the nomads, who lived their harsh life in the northern and<br />

central parts of the <strong>Arabia</strong>n Peninsula north of Oman and Yemen and South of the Mediterranean<br />

States. Nomads were drinking camel's milk. The date was their second main form of sustenance.<br />

The nomads kept goats and planted melons in the desert, which received humidity from the<br />

morning moisture. Life was easier when the rare lightning storms brought rain that gave the<br />

desert some additional life. A part of the Arabs settled in communities, such as Mecca and<br />

Medina, which were easier to defend, against the competing tribes, as the tent camps of the<br />

caravans. <strong>In</strong> Medina dates and grain were cultivated. Mecca was a market town.<br />

When the sun rises, it scorches the <strong>Arabia</strong>n Peninsula desert. The huge sand dunes are<br />

shimmering in the heat in Rub al Khali or the Empty Quarter. The temperature in the shade would<br />

be 50 o C, if there would be shadow whatsoever. It is almost as hot along the rest of the <strong>Arabia</strong>n<br />

Peninsula in the middle of the day. The camel caravans, carrying gold and spices peninsula to the<br />

north, generally avoided the Empty Quarter by going round it, along the shore of the Red Sea<br />

instead. The camel had ben domesticated around 1500 BC. Gold and spices had been transported<br />

by ship from <strong>In</strong>dia to Salalah and Qana'an in present day Oman. The route of the caravans passed<br />

through Marib, capital of the Kingdom of Hadhramaut and the Kingdom of Sheba. There's a rose<br />

incense tree there, another note of caravans trading goods. <strong>In</strong>cense is the resin of the Boswellia<br />

sacra tree which grows mainly in Hadramaut, present Yemen. As a commodity it reminds one of<br />

giant tear drops. The aim of the caravan has been Gaza City on the shore of the Mediterranean.


17<br />

The time spent for caravans used for the trip through Mecca, Medina and Petrah would total<br />

about a quarter of a year. At the end of the thirteenth century shipping became competitive as a<br />

means of transport instead.<br />

<strong>In</strong> the year 571 a son Muhammad was born to Abdullah al Quraishi of the Quraishi tribe.<br />

Muhammad changed the world. Muhammad was a deep believer and became a preacher, to<br />

whom, according to tradition, the Archangel Gabriel presented the word of God. Muhammad<br />

began to preach monotheism to the polytheistic shepherds. They had to surrender fully to God,<br />

Allah, the complete surrender, in Arabic, Islam, which gave the name to the religion. <strong>In</strong> 622,<br />

Muhammad emigrated to Medina. This year initiates the calendar the Muslims still use.<br />

<strong>In</strong> the seventeenth century a small colony was founded by Sheikh Mani al Muraidi in the oasis<br />

region of Wadi Hanifah. It received the name of his tribe Diriya. From his son’s name Saud<br />

originates the family name al Saud, the name of the current ruling family of <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>.<br />

Saud’s son Muhammad Ibn Saud offered shelter to Sheikh Muhammad Ibn Abdul Wahhab, who<br />

preached a very orthodox Islamic faith. The habits of the Arab society had loosened. Originally<br />

simple mosques had become decorative temples. Abdul Wahhab wanted to cleanse <strong>Arabia</strong> with<br />

the word of God. The word alone was not enough, also a sword was needed. Muhammad Ibn<br />

Saud offered himself as its user. He deduced that in union with a man, who carried the message,<br />

he could unite the nomads, Bedouins and the inhabitants of the cities to a new religious battle,<br />

Jihad, in order to extend the territory that he dominated. He married his son Abdul Aziz to the<br />

preacher’s daughter and created so in 1744 the families were bonded, which has survived to this<br />

day.<br />

<strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> is still a State of Wahhabi religion, which publicly maintains and promotes a pure<br />

Islam faith. The Al Saud family rules the country. The offspring of Mohammad Abdul Wahhab,<br />

whose family name is al-Sheikh, act as advisors. <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> promotes Unitarianism, which<br />

connects all of Islam. Unitarianism does not make a difference between faith and political action.<br />

The Wahhabis obtained in 60 years control of the central parts of the <strong>Arabia</strong>n peninsula, from<br />

the Persian Gulf to the Red Sea and the nearby Mecca and Medina. <strong>In</strong> the South, they stretched<br />

to the border with Oman, and in the North to the environment of Damascus and Baghdad. The<br />

success led to the destruction of the power of the Wahhabis. The Ottoman Sultan sent the<br />

Egyptian viceroy Muhammad Ali to drive the men of the deserts from Mecca and Medina. The<br />

British, which also had become the enemies of the Wahhabi, supported these efforts.<br />

<strong>In</strong> 1818, Muhammad Ali's son, Ibrahim Pasha <strong>In</strong>vaded the capital of the <strong>Saudi</strong>s Diriya, destroying<br />

it. The <strong>Saudi</strong> ruler was transported to Constantinople and beheaded. Finally, his head was<br />

crushed in a mortar. The Diriyan ruins are still visible outside the current capital Riyadh. I have


18<br />

frequently walked there photographing the ruins of the buildings, some of which have now been<br />

restored. The last time when I visited the area in the fall of 2006, the ruins had become an open<br />

air museum.<br />

Muhammad Ibn Saud’s grandson Turki and his son Faisal settled twenty years later in the new<br />

capital Riyadh and started again with the enlargement of the Wahhabi rule and conversion.<br />

Feisal’s two sons started, after the death of their father, to argue about power and assets.<br />

Through this manner, a deteriorating second <strong>Saudi</strong> Kingdom was attacked by the Rashid family<br />

from Hail, assisted by the Turks. The bulk of the Al Sauds were deported.<br />

The recent history of the Kingdom of <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> begins at the northern edge of the empty<br />

quarter, Rub Al Khali, where the Al Sauds had fled from Riyadh. They were provided refuge by a<br />

Bedouin tribe called Murrah, with whom they had gathered decent “razzia” spoils from twenty<br />

years past. Razzia is the name of the attack of a nomadic tribe into another tribe’s territory. The<br />

purpose had been to capture camels. Other property was not taken and the point was not to kill<br />

opponents. Women were not touched. It would have been a disgrace (hara’am). The 15-year-old,<br />

Abdulaziz ibn Saud, learned during those years that the Bedouins could not to be trusted in battle.<br />

They were turning against their own leaders and siding with the enemy in order to get a winning<br />

cache. <strong>In</strong> 1894 the Abdul Aziz family moved to the port city Kuwait, where life was easier. Kuwait’s<br />

ruler, Sheikh Mubarak Al Sabah, was host to the <strong>Saudi</strong>s. The same family rules Kuwait still today.<br />

<strong>In</strong> early 1901, Mubarak led a band of Bedouins, including the Al <strong>Saudi</strong>s against the Ar Rasheed<br />

family who had occupied Riyadh. During late summer Rasheed, in turn, marched toward Kuwait.<br />

The British fleet supported Mubarak and Ar Rasheed traveled North to negotiate with the Turks<br />

in Baghdad. Ar Rasheed’s troops were now as far away as possible from Riyadh. Abdulaziz ibn<br />

Saud took advantage of the situation. He left with a small group of Bedouins from Kuwait towards<br />

Riyadh. During the move the group grew from around forty up into two hundred. Before Abdul<br />

Aziz was able to carry out the attack, the number had once again dwindled.<br />

Abdulaziz did not want to give up. <strong>In</strong> December 1901, they continued their journey with 60<br />

Bedouins into a desert called Rub Al Ghali and hid there in very primitive wilderness conditions.<br />

After the end of Ramadan, the group moved to the surroundings of Riyadh. Abdulaziz climbed<br />

with 40 bedouin over the city wall using an old Palm tree as a ladder, and finally reached the<br />

Governor Ajlan's House and also Mismak, the fort in the center of Riyadh. During the fight the<br />

Governor was killed. This led to the Rasheed garrison surrender. Around the middle of the day<br />

came thousands of citizens to swear allegiance to Abdulaziz al Saud, who had conquered the<br />

family’s old home town. Since then, the <strong>Saudi</strong>s have ruled Riyadh and from Riyadh the enlarged<br />

Kingdom. About the events before and during the invasion a variety of different stories are told...


19<br />

30 years later, upon the <strong>Arabia</strong>n Peninsula, a lot had happened, such as the First and Second<br />

World Wars and Abdulaziz's conquering excursions. He conquered in the South of the Peninsula<br />

the Asir area, the city of Mecca and the Western Hejaz region on the Red Sea shore. Formally, he<br />

proclaimed the Kingdom of <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> on the eighteenth of September, 1932. Modernization<br />

grabbed hold and crude oil began to accumulate lucrative income.<br />

*<br />

Early trading connections between <strong>Arabia</strong> and Finland bear witness to thousand-year-old<br />

Arabic coins found hidden in Finnish soil. Much later, a Finnish researcher Georg August Wallin<br />

or Abd professoral-Wali spent many years in the Arab world. <strong>In</strong> the years 1843 - 1848 he made,<br />

during his journeys to the <strong>Arabia</strong>n Peninsula, some interesting notes. The deceased professor<br />

helped me significantly with my work in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>. He was the first European who visited the<br />

current <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>’s middle parts, and secretly Mecca as well as Jeddah, where secrecy was not<br />

needed. During his travels, he wrote a diary, which was later published as a book. I gave the<br />

<strong>Arabia</strong>n language version of the book to major Arab acquaintances, many of whom were<br />

members of the Government. The book has been greatly appreciated.<br />

Finland appointed the first Honorary Consul in Jeddah in 1950. Diplomatic relations were signed<br />

in 1969. The Ambassador in Beirut, Carolus Lassila, took care of the relations with <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>.<br />

He moved in 1974 to Jeddah in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>. The Importance of <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> had <strong>In</strong>creased as a<br />

result of the oil crisis, so an Embassy was opened there.<br />

<strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>n acting Foreign Minister Sayyid Omar Saqqaf visited Finland in 1974. He met with<br />

the then President of the Republic Urho Kekkonen and the Foreign Minister Ahti Karjalainen. He<br />

said that <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> was going to open up an Embassy in Helsinki. As I write this, more than<br />

thirty years later, it has recently been set up. During negotiations on economic, technical and<br />

technological cooperation an agreement was signed. Finland sought to enter into these<br />

agreements with as many developing countries as possible. They included annual negotiations<br />

alternating in both countries.<br />

To the general public and the Helsinki society the trade potential of <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> became<br />

interesting in September 1976, when a wealthy businessman, Adnan M. Khashoggi, from the rich<br />

oil-producing country, arrived in Helsinki with his entourage. Usually no public attention is paid<br />

to travelling businessmen and their entourage, but this business man with company arrived in<br />

two private jets and met with the top persons of Finland’s economic life and the top political<br />

leaders. Already on the airport, a Miss Europe Ritva Väisänen embraced the arriving Mr.<br />

Khashoggi. A well-known PR man Topi Törmä took care of Mr. Khashoggi’s public and personal<br />

relations. Khashoggy met the President of the Republic Urho Kekkonen during an athletics<br />

competition between Finland and Sweden. The top managers of many leading Finnish companies


20<br />

were waiting to meet Adnan Khashoggi and the Representatives of his Triad Group. Finnish<br />

companies wanted to do business with the oil enriched Kingdom of <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>. Finally<br />

Khashoggi organized a large reception in the hotel Kalastajatorppa. It was the event of the season<br />

for the Helsinki society. A lot was said about the visit and the big contracts signed. Mr. Kerkko<br />

Keinonen had arranged the program in Finland for Khashoggi. Mr. Martti Huhanantti who had<br />

learnt to know him in the Middle East had succeeded in getting him to come to Finland.<br />

*<br />

The Foreign Service offered a wide field of view. <strong>In</strong> private sector companies the views would in<br />

the seventies have been much smaller because globalization was not yet advanced. As I received<br />

the opportunity and honor to move from Germany to the Arab world, where a lot of buying<br />

power had concentrated with regards to the price of crude oil increasing rapidly, I picked it up<br />

without any hesitation. The big oil revenue of the oil producing countries could finance many<br />

Finnish planning and construction projects. On the other hand, Finland needed a guaranteed oil<br />

supply. <strong>In</strong> an altered state of the oil market, we did not want to be totally dependent on our main<br />

supplier the Soviet Union. I was appointed Ambassador to <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> in 1977. Above, I have<br />

spoken about my first impressions.<br />

My predecessor, Ambassador Carolus Lassila visited us mid-June in Frankfurt on his way to<br />

Finland. We discussed during the visit in detail <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> and the neighboring countries, to<br />

which I was also assigned. A matter of some weeks later, I met with the Undersecretary for<br />

Commercial Policy of the Ministry for Foreign Affairs Arvo Rytkönen. He did not want to rush the<br />

opening of an Embassy for <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> in Finland, because there they would just translate into<br />

Arabic all manner of press articles, from our perspective too much to left leaning and orientated<br />

press. Rytkönen mentioned that Neste’s Hietarinta was aware of Khashoggi’s confidence man<br />

Huhanantti quite well. <strong>In</strong> mid-August, I spoke with Foreign Minister Paavo Väyrynen about the<br />

state of Finland’s economy and the overvaluation of the currency. Väyrynen criticized<br />

unprofitable political investment decisions. We did not talk about oil. My role in the Middle East<br />

Väyrynen considered essentially constituting of economic policy matters but he also wanted<br />

views of the Middle Eastern overall situation and of the <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>n relations with other Arab<br />

countries.<br />

<strong>In</strong> October I departed with Rytkönen to meet with the Ambassador of <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> in Stockholm,<br />

His Excellency Shawwaf. The discussion handled crude oil, energy-saving measures, sales of ships,<br />

the YIT Roro Lines shipping line from Venice to Jeddah, an air traffic agreement, a ship yard<br />

agreement and the construction of Embassies in Riyadh.


21<br />

His Majesty King Khalid bin Abdulaziz Al Saud and Kai Helenius discussing development of trade<br />

My formerly purely commercial job expanded to other areas also. Trade issues stayed at the<br />

forefront. My mandate covered almost the whole of the <strong>Arabia</strong>n Peninsula. Then, additionally to<br />

<strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>, I was Ambassador to the United Arab Emirates (including Abu Dhabi and Dubai), to<br />

Bahrain, the Yemen Arab Republic, Oman and Qatar. My primary mission was to get oil for Finland<br />

at a reasonable price. Just as important was to get new projects for Finnish companies and<br />

increase overall trade. It was also important to help Finnish construction and other companies<br />

and their staff were included, with how to solve endless local problems. <strong>In</strong>teresting indeed was<br />

the monitoring of political and steadily increasing economic development on and around the<br />

Arab Peninsula, and its influence on the whole Middle East, moving from crisis to crisis.<br />

Exporters whom I attempted to advise, about how to successfully trade with the Arabs without<br />

forgetting the small details of the Arab culture and traditions demanded, went somewhat well.<br />

It was important first to get to personally know a trading partner. Some of the rituals, such as<br />

taking and drinking a cup of coffee always with the right hand only and the right way to keep your<br />

legs when seated was important. One should never refuse coffee. The Bedouin host had to offer<br />

coffee in order to show his hospitality and it was a serious insult to refuse. Though the coffee<br />

might resemble medium light crude oil, one should drink it smiling. The foot sole should never<br />

be directed against a person. It was interpreted as contempt. Within a tent it was considered


22<br />

polite to sit on one’s legs. It was interesting to observe how one unaccustomed was able to get<br />

up after sitting so a while. If he had not taken off his shoes before sitting down it was even more<br />

difficult to get up. I, of course, had to<br />

learn all these manners and customs<br />

before giving advice to others.<br />

I was not the only advisor. The<br />

Embassy's Commercial Department<br />

provided it for a living. Books and<br />

writings on the subject of how to sell to<br />

the Arabs were released in numerous<br />

countries. Some of the writings were<br />

serious, but some were tending to<br />

playfulness. They were not always<br />

thinking much of the expected Arab<br />

customers, one might consider many texts insulting. The advice was published during the years<br />

when the petrodollars started to turn Arabs into major trading partners. To those traveling to the<br />

<strong>Arabia</strong>n deserts to get back the dollars paid for crude oil a variety of advice about how to<br />

negotiate with the Sheiks was given. One of the proposals was to add to the discussion of business<br />

issues poetic Arabic phrases. The Arabs adore their language. When you learned by heart a few<br />

phrases it showed appreciation of their culture. They were not interested in the in the Western<br />

normal discussion openings, such as, "today is a beautiful day," or "it is not this that kills you, but<br />

the moisture." It would be more appropriate to begin for example by saying, "Oh, my cousin<br />

Ahmed, I would be happy to travel months in a sand storm in order to bring you this offer, that<br />

smells good like a thousand camels."<br />

I was from my studying days used to the black cloak of Sitsimiesliitto (A student fraternity), even<br />

if someone borrowed mine forgetting to return it, so I felt at home surrounded by people dressed<br />

in robes. <strong>In</strong> <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>, as in the other countries of the region, the elite used black cloaks with<br />

golden borders. Many other habits were such as those I was already adapted to from during my<br />

student days at the Technical University. Once we were sitting above the sand-desert in a small<br />

but fast jet. We were Kari Kairamo, Jaakko Ihamuotila and the author. My objective in <strong>Saudi</strong><br />

<strong>Arabia</strong> and its five neighboring countries was to obtain cheap oil, as well as construction projects,<br />

consulting assignments and export customers for the Finnish industry. Finland finally paid for its<br />

crude oil at much less cost than what many other countries in Europe paid. Many Finnish<br />

construction and industrial projects were completed. The role of Sitsimiesliitto was essential.<br />

*<br />

There was sufficient work for me in the six countries where I worked. There were sufficient flight<br />

trips. The division of the administration of <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> between Riyadh and Jeddah made it<br />

necessary to fly this distance of one thousand kilometers several times during the week. At first


23<br />

it was flown primarily in small passenger planes, such as the Boeing 737, later in wide body jets<br />

such as Lockheed L1011 TriStar and Boeing 747 Jumbo Jets.<br />

<strong>In</strong> the early years it was almost impossible to book a flight. One had to purchase a ticket and then<br />

traverse some hours prior to the departure time of the flight to the overcrowded Riyadh airport<br />

with the ticket in your hand to reserve a seat. The functionary took your ticket booklet, ripped<br />

out the ticket and wrote something in Arabic on the booklet cover. When the departure time<br />

came closer, jostled around the functionaries were local people, migrant workers, ambassadors,<br />

construction workers, sales managers, and truck drivers trying to get a boarding card with their<br />

ticket covers. The best way frequently was to tear a boarding card from a functionary’s hand. If<br />

you were unlucky you had to return to the jostling crowd of the next departing plane. With<br />

enough energy you eventually received a boarding card to a plane which departed the same day<br />

or the next day.<br />

On arrival you had to get a car from somewhere, if nobody was meeting you. There was no public<br />

transport except for taxis. There certainly were enough taxis available but they had no foreign<br />

language skills and could not find any addresses. The Finnish YIT company and other contractors<br />

helped me in Riyadh with their cars.<br />

There were<br />

no street<br />

addresses in<br />

this large<br />

“Wild West"<br />

of<br />

construction. All address information was always in the form: "Drive from the Water Tower on<br />

the broad street to the North until you see the car lift. There turn to the left until you come to<br />

the <strong>Arabia</strong>n Lamah office, then straight over two streets and five houses to the right. The house<br />

has a blue gate”. Finding the destination was not easy but fortunately I always found my way.<br />

Otherwise there would not have been any negotiations and no project or business successes.


24<br />

Essential when working with the Arabs, especially with the genuine desert Arabs was sincerity.<br />

Sincerity created genuine relationships. It was the core of confidence-building. When there was<br />

confidence, good results were possible. It is nice to negotiate with Arabs, as long as you accept<br />

the culture and all local customs. If they are not accepted, there is no trust. The creation of the<br />

trust called for several meetings and familiarizing oneself. By launching too early one’s<br />

commercial interests one did not progress through the negotiation nor guarantee result. Many<br />

of the Finnish companies wanted to enter the market without having references of operation in<br />

the Arab world or of similar circumstances in general. Because I had created relationships based<br />

on trust with many influential persons I could sometimes play a decisive role in order to get a<br />

project or an order simply by explaining to the <strong>Saudi</strong> party that I had confidence in that particular<br />

Finnish company. The policy makers accepted my simple oral statements that the Finnish<br />

company competing for a major project was a reliable business partner. They had learnt to rely<br />

on my sincerity. I never misused the confidence so results were achieved.<br />

Sincerity was inevitable for the necessary personal relation. Of course you can’t ask an Arab for<br />

example “How is your wife?” That is not for outsiders. But it is quite correct to ask, “How is your<br />

family?” The illusion that all the Arabs are fanatic zealots is quite unfair. However among them<br />

can be found extremists, like the Islamic fundamentalists, as we have been shocked in witnessing.<br />

Personal relationships were, in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> and its neighboring countries, a basic requirement<br />

for all economic and other activities. Creating trust between people was the base on which<br />

trading and relationship were built. There was a lot of wheeling dealing and slice taking, but for<br />

serious trade talks a high degree of confidence was crucial.<br />

From oil wells to international oil trade<br />

From the Earth came wells and<br />

rivulets of black-green substance.<br />

Sometimes lightning struck and set<br />

fire to gas outbursts. The fires were<br />

likely to last for centuries. Already,<br />

about 4000 BC, The Sumerians, and<br />

after them the Assyrians and the<br />

Babylonians, used crude oil.<br />

Natural asphalt was used as mortar,<br />

fastening and medicine. I have<br />

walked on the excavated Babylon<br />

ancient asphalt-covered street.


25<br />

<strong>In</strong> the Persian language, crude oil is “neft”. Nafta was used as a weapon as, later, Napalm. The<br />

Greeks poured burning oil on enemy attackers and sprayed it on their ships. Marco Polo told of<br />

Baku's gushing oil wells in 1217. The Arabs had already in the 900 th century written about oil<br />

distillation.<br />

When whales were driven almost to extinction to obtain lamp oil, in the eighteen hundreds for<br />

the same use was derived petrol obtained from crude oil, and at the same time lubrication grease<br />

was produced. The first oil well was drilled in 1857. Three years later the first oil refinery went<br />

into operation. The first oil pipeline was built in 1865. These developments all took place in the<br />

United States. Oil had been discovered also in America, which was first sold as a medicine with<br />

the name “mountain oil”. John D. Rockefeller started in the oil business with a small refinery. <strong>In</strong><br />

1880 95% of all the refineries in America were under his control.<br />

With the invention of the combustion engine the oil business leaped powerfully forward.<br />

Systematic exploration of oil, the oil industry and an oil distribution network, in which the end<br />

purpose was the petrol station, were born. At the end of the 1920s, almost 87 % of the world's<br />

oil production came from the United States. New oil discoveries were, however, also made, for<br />

example in Venezuela.<br />

During World War II oil became more important than ever before. The Germans never reached<br />

the Baku oil fields, which contributed to the defeat of Germany. To note as well, the Germans, as<br />

also the Japanese, had to resort to a significant extent to synthetic products made from coal. The<br />

synthetic oil was not of the same quality as natural oil. The German air force Luftwaffe was forced<br />

to use airplane fuel, which was much poorer than what was used by the Americans.<br />

<strong>In</strong> Persia oil production began in 1909. The Anglo-Persian Oil Company constructed an oil pipeline<br />

from the oil fields to the Persian Gulf. The company, whose name later became The Anglo-Iranian<br />

Oil Company and, finally, this British Petroleum provided oil to the British Navy.<br />

The Iraq Petroleum Company started production in Iraq in 1927. The Kuwait Oil Company<br />

discovered in 1938 the gigantic Burghan oil field. <strong>In</strong> the same year commercially interesting<br />

quantities of oil were discovered in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>. Slowly it became apparent that the world's<br />

largest oil reserves were in the Middle East, particularly in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>.<br />

King Abdul Aziz gave, hesitantly, in 1930, the right for foreigners to examine and evaluate the oil<br />

and mineral resources of <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>. The first oil explorers arrived in the country in 1933. An<br />

agreement was signed for the exclusive oil exploration and production in the eastern part of the<br />

country. Standard Oil Company of California (SOCAL) committed itself to providing a loan of £ 50<br />

000 in gold, or about 250 000 US $, and to pay 25 000 $ per year in rent, as well as paying 1 US $


26<br />

royalty per tonne of produced oil. The Agreement covered additionally a 25 000 US $ advance<br />

payment of royalties when commercial quantities of oil were discovered. The period of validity<br />

of the contract was 60 years.<br />

<strong>In</strong> December 1936 drilling commenced at the<br />

Dammam bore “number Seven”. <strong>In</strong> the<br />

spring of 1937 the wives of the first two “oil<br />

men”, as they were to be called, were<br />

allowed to enter <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>. <strong>In</strong> September,<br />

four more wives and four children arrived. <strong>In</strong><br />

March 1938, at 1440 meters depth<br />

commercially significant amounts of oil were<br />

discovered. Dammam number Seven<br />

produced oil in the quantity of 3810 barrels a<br />

day. By 1979 it had managed to produce 27<br />

million barrels.<br />

War broke out in Europe. <strong>In</strong> <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong><br />

Dammam was bombed by mistake by one<br />

Italian aircraft mistaking it for the<br />

neighboring nation of Bahrain, where the<br />

other planes of the fleet had flown. The<br />

damages were small. The oil company's<br />

name was, in the year 1944, changed to<br />

ARAMCO (<strong>Arabia</strong>n American Oil Company).<br />

The oil company grew, expanded its<br />

production and production areas, and built<br />

oil terminals and pipelines. When I moved to<br />

<strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>, the company exported more than 7 700 000 barrels per day (BPD) of crude oil. It<br />

was exporting a large portion of the demand for energy of the industrialized countries.<br />

*<br />

Before moving to <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> I had, through my discussions in Helsinki, found that the<br />

perceptions of the purchase method of <strong>Saudi</strong> crude oil were considerably variable. The CEO of<br />

Neste Oil, Uolevi Raade, had discussed with me that he had strongly influenced the President of<br />

the Republic, via an agreement in 1974, to set up Embassies in the oil-producing countries; in<br />

Jeddah, in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> and Teheran in Iran. He considered it to be antagonizing of Neste Oy’s<br />

policy to pay commissions when buying crude oil from <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>. Neste had, until then, bought<br />

<strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>n oil from Caltex and Chevron, the parent companies of ARAMCO. Khashoggi Whad,


27<br />

during his visit, indicated that he could act as an intermediary in the event that Neste Oy wished<br />

to buy directly from the <strong>Saudi</strong>s. Raade had been getting ready to retire at the age of 65, but his<br />

mandate was extended until the 1980's, because no new Chief Executive Officer had been found<br />

for Neste Oy. Raade considered personal contacts to be especially important in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>.<br />

Raade considered that the oil policy should not be the responsibility of the Ministry for Foreign<br />

Affairs, but that of the oil companies, as it was in the United States. President Kekkonen had<br />

provided Raade with the responsibility over the oil policy. For one, at the political level, it had<br />

been handled badly, was the opinion of Raade. The President of the Republic did not desire<br />

traveling to <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> because he considered that it might disturb his ties with the Soviet<br />

Union. <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> was opposed to the policies of the Soviet Union. No other important minister<br />

had visited the country. The owners of ARAMCO had promised Neste oil deliveries for three<br />

years, so there was no need for direct purchases. The Ministry for Foreign Affairs fought<br />

unsuccessfully to force Raade to accept direct purchases. Others in Neste Oy thought the<br />

company's policy was going to change.<br />

The Finns sought direct purchases already 1972, when there had been an opportunity, but the<br />

negotiations broke down because the Finns did not dare to make a decision. <strong>In</strong> 1973, it was quite<br />

the same situation. After the oil market had changed, the situation had become clearly more<br />

difficult. The Supreme Petroleum Council was chaired by Crown Prince Fahed. The Council<br />

planned matters about and around the issue of oil. Petromin conducted the negotiations and the<br />

decisions were made by Fahed. <strong>In</strong> <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> it was difficult to get information, even about<br />

who’s responsibility an issue was.<br />

Rytkönen estimated the annual oil consumption in Finland to maintain at around 12 million tons.<br />

The Soviet oil deliveries were no longer growing. According to Khashoggi Crown Prince Fahed had<br />

taken the political decision to sell oil directly to Finland. Rytkönen spoke about one of the two<br />

American oil suppliers to Neste that had cancelled its delivery contract. From Neste I had not<br />

heard this yet. Rytkönen urged me to use oil deals made by other nations as examples to make<br />

Raade change his strict position, while, at the same time, without antagonizing him.<br />

Raade informed about the decision of the Neste Board not to sign oil trade contracts with<br />

Khashoggi. Neste sought now direct purchases. Hietarinta (Head of Crude Oil Operations) was<br />

going to <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>, but the Embassy had not been able to arrange contacts. Raade wanted<br />

only a part of the purchases to be direct, because they thought that the impractical <strong>Saudi</strong>s would<br />

not be able to carry out direct deliveries. Neste had always made long-term purchase contracts.<br />

Now the company was considering purchasing a part as “spot-lot purchases”. Sweden had,<br />

according to Raade, better contacts to the <strong>Saudi</strong>s. One former Minister had even visited oil<br />

minister Yamani’s home residence. Deputy Foreign Minister Abdullah Ali Reza had, when visiting<br />

Finland, said, "Raade had contact with us already before the oil crisis, when we did not know


28<br />

what we were." Raade spoke of the fact that he no longer met with the President of the Republic,<br />

as often as he had in the past, when he used to go fishing and celebrating with the President.<br />

Raade thought that Khashoggi was taken in the Foreign Ministry too seriously. Crude oil<br />

purchases were at Neste Oy becoming the responsibility of my former fellow student Kai<br />

Hietarinta.<br />

*<br />

The Iranian revolution was preceded by increasing unrest in the country in 1978. The <strong>Saudi</strong>s were<br />

in the process of taking over Aramco from the international oil companies. I spoke to the<br />

Undersecretary of State for Trade Policy Paavo Rantanen about the issue of it being high time to<br />

send a Government’s letter to the <strong>Saudi</strong> Minister of Foreign Affairs indicating our interest in<br />

purchasing crude oil. As Ambassador I could write the letter. According to Rantanen, Raade was<br />

insulted by the indifference the <strong>Saudi</strong>s were showing.<br />

<strong>In</strong> January 1979 I agreed with Hietarinta that I could start soundings about 1-2 million tons annual<br />

oil deliveries. During the same month, the Shah of Iran was forced to leave his country. With


29<br />

Oman and Qatar, it was decided to start negotiations around the estimate of about 1 million tons<br />

from each country.<br />

Securing the supply of crude oil at a reasonably price was one of the most important tasks of my<br />

initial term of office. The difficulties reported by the Soviet Union to supply all of the oil promised<br />

to us, and with crude oil price increasing to more than 40 dollars a barrel on the Rotterdam<br />

market made this activity essential for the economy of Finland. I reached out to contact oil<br />

minister Ahmed Zaki Yamani in the Ministry in Riyadh and all over the country. Sometime later I<br />

caught him on the way to his plane and the discussions took place during the flight. Yamani’s<br />

Gulfstream became familiar. During one discussion I gave Yamani Georg August Wallin’s Travel<br />

Report about his travels to and around the central parts of <strong>Arabia</strong> in 1845 and 1848. The Report<br />

was translated into Arabic and leather bound. Yamani was definitely interested in this rare travel<br />

report.<br />

I negotiated with oil minister Ahmed Zaki Yamani in May. I set out the reasons for the<br />

requirement of Finland to obtain <strong>Saudi</strong> oil. Finland was the coldest country in Europe, importing<br />

73% of its energy. The previous year the imports amounted to 10.5 million tons, of which 67,5 %<br />

from the Soviet Union and 14.9 % through Texaco and Chevron in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>. Chevron would<br />

not continue their deliveries and Texaco would cut their deliveries in relation to the cuts made<br />

by ARAMCO. Finland had introduced energy-saving measures and developed the domestic<br />

energy resources. The Neste oil refinery was the largest in Northern Europe. The first links of<br />

Neste with Petromin were from 1972, when Neste’s CEO Raade, met with Foreign Minister Prince<br />

Saud al Faisal and Petromin's CEO Dr. Taher. I brought up the majority of 113 – 87 of non-socialist<br />

Members of Parliament and our pro-ab foreign policy.<br />

r


30<br />

Yamani listened in a sombre mood, and<br />

replied that he could not earlier than<br />

June 10 th indicate what <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong><br />

could do in favor of Finland. Yamani said<br />

that there still appeared pressure to<br />

raise oil prices. Especially in the United<br />

States it had not been possible to reduce<br />

consumption, instead the imports had<br />

increased. Yamani did not believe that<br />

solar energy could be of help in the near<br />

future. <strong>In</strong> the process of nuclear fusion<br />

technology he believed in, meanwhile.<br />

As I write this, forty years later, it is still<br />

not available. I suggested to Yamani that<br />

he should fly over and admire the<br />

midnight sun in Finland after having<br />

finished his official visit to Denmark on<br />

June 23 rd . Yamani promised to get back<br />

to me. Originally he had intended to see<br />

the midnight sun in Greenland. I wrote to<br />

Raade and hoped that there was<br />

preparedness in Finland to welcome<br />

Yamani as Midsummer guest. The <strong>Saudi</strong><br />

<strong>Arabia</strong>n Ministry of Foreign Affairs wrote<br />

in the early days of June that the<br />

Kingdom was unable to respond<br />

positively to the Finnish request for an oil<br />

delivery under the prevailing conditions.<br />

Hietarinta told me on the phone that<br />

Texaco had reduced their delivery promise from one million tonnes to 830 000 tonnes. The<br />

Russians had set their prices to equal the costs of those to which we had to pay elsewhere.<br />

Therefore, the <strong>Saudi</strong> oil became even more important.<br />

The days through the middle of June were filled with several discussions and negotiations. The<br />

result was an offer of 40 000 barrels per day of crude oil with deliveries beginning July 1 st 1979.<br />

Yamani confirmed that he would visit Finland in June 22 nd to 24 th .<br />

For us it was important to develop a good personal relationship with oil minister Ahmed Zaki<br />

Yamani, who those years appeared on all TV channels around the world. It took time to create a<br />

significantly deep personal relationships with this person that everybody was eagerly trying to<br />

contact during those years. We succeeded and Yamani, accompanied by his wife, arrived for


31<br />

Midsummer to Finland. The Midsummer Festival is dedicated to the family. This time the top<br />

management of Neste, the President of the Republic, and many others made an exception.<br />

I flew to Finland to be there to welcome the oil minister, who arrived from Denmark in his own<br />

plane. He was immediately upon arrival interviewed by the press. He considered the current oil<br />

price 20 US $ per barrel, far too high. OPEC's next meeting, June 26-27, in Geneva, he thought<br />

would be both difficult and important.<br />

The journey continued to Rovaniemi, where the Yamani couple enjoyed following the midnight<br />

sun cycle. The atmosphere was very romantic. Our guests seemed happy.<br />

The next day we visited the President’s summer residence in Kultaranta, where Yamani met with<br />

the President of the Republic Urho Kekkonen. Yamani received Kekkonen’s invitation to travel<br />

back during April for skiing in Lapland. Kekkonen emphasized the “Arab positive” policy of<br />

Finland. After Yamani had repeatedly regretted taking too much of the President’s time,<br />

Kekkonen responded that he had nothing more than time due to him being on summer vacation.<br />

He chuckled at the same time about the civil servants who have six weeks of summer vacation,<br />

and wondered how a man can during six weeks come up with things to do. Yamani said in


32<br />

conclusion that he was glad that he had the opportunity to meet with a President, who had been<br />

in power for more than 20 years. Kekkonen replied: "A lot of people stay for far too long."<br />

The weather was fine. Kekkonen came to the pier to say goodbye, when we left by boat to<br />

Juusluoto. On this island, used by Neste Oy to entertain guests, Raade insisted that the Minister<br />

and his wife Tamam should change into Neste’s green warm-up suit, referring to the traditions<br />

of the lodge. I do not think the Minister at other times used a warm-up suit and it did not suit<br />

him particularly well.<br />

<strong>In</strong> the lodge we ate a decent lunch. During that lunch I was able to make the CEO turn pale. It<br />

was more common that he made others turn pale. With the fish we had Morels, a familiar<br />

delicacy in Finland. Yamani asked me what sorts of mushrooms we ate. <strong>In</strong> a show of my<br />

knowledge of nature I told him that we were eating Morels, which belong to our most toxic<br />

mushrooms. At this point our host CEO Raade turned pale. It was a miracle that he did not ask<br />

me to leave immediately. The oil minister did not turn pale. He was more accustomed to my<br />

special sense of humor. Of course I immediately added that the poison had been completely<br />

removed from the mushrooms.<br />

Yamani’s hobbies included both astrology and palmistry. He read the characters of Raade,<br />

Minister Sundqvist, Mrs Hietarinta as well as some others from their palms. Unfortunately,<br />

everybody kept Yamani’s analysis secret.<br />

e oil was discussed during the beautiful summer day. Yamani advised to contact Dr. Taher at<br />

Petromin to notify that the Finns were willing to negotiate. Taher would tell us when the signing<br />

of the Agreement could be carried out. The oil for Finland would be lacking from the others.<br />

Yamani hoped that the matter should not be publicized yet.<br />

When I visited the Foreign Ministry I spoke with Foreign Minister Väyrynen about the matter of<br />

the quantity of <strong>Saudi</strong> crude oil to Finland not being raised to above the 2 million tonne limit, in<br />

order not to impede negotiations with the Soviet Union. I told Minister Väyrynen that I was trying<br />

to arrange his visit to <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>. The <strong>Saudi</strong>s had, however, recently only received the Foreign<br />

Ministers of the Federal Republic of Germany, France, and the Foreign Minister of the EEC<br />

Presidency Belgium. I also gave a brief report on the political situation in the Kingdom.<br />

Deputy Secretary of State, Paavo Rantanen, was about to travel to Moscow. He wanted to know<br />

when Alireza could schedule in the Joint Commission talks in Finland. I spoke about the situation<br />

after the Yamani discussions. Paavo considered it very advantageous for Neste giving them<br />

support for the Moscow talks.


33<br />

I met with Kai Hietarinta, who was responsible for Neste Oy’s crude oil procurement, making<br />

numerous trips to the oil-producing countries on the <strong>Arabia</strong>n Peninsula to find suitable suppliers.<br />

With <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> we signed a delivery contract, which guaranteed Finland the amount of crude<br />

oil that we had wished for, for a couple of years into the future, almost to the current OPEC base<br />

price. The price did vary somewhat, but it was, at the time of the conclusion of the contract,<br />

about $ 18 a barrel.<br />

When Hietarinta and Neste’s lawyer Jouko Leskinen came to sign the Agreement on oil delivery,<br />

it turned out that Petromin was not ready to sign, as Neste’s representatives did not have the<br />

Finnish Government's authorization. <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> was a country of rapid reactions, so I ended up<br />

right away writing a solemn letter with the following text:<br />

I hereby authorize the national oil company of Finland Neste Oy, represented by Mr. Kai<br />

Hietarinta and Mr. Jouko Leskinen, to conclude and sign a crude oil contract on behalf of the<br />

Government of Finland with the competent authorities of the Kingdom of <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>.<br />

Jeddah on July 3rd 1979<br />

Kai Helenius<br />

Ambassador Extraordinary and<br />

Plenipotentiary of Finland<br />

to The Kingdom Of <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>.<br />

The Agreement was signed on the 10 th of Shaaban 1399, equal to the 4 th of July 1979 of our<br />

gregarian calendar. It consisted of 36 560 0000 barrels of crude oil, or about 5 million tonnes.<br />

Later in the autumn, I negotiated with Yamani and received a couple of days later a confirmation<br />

that we would obtain the requested additional amount of 8 000 barrels per day. I met Taher on<br />

the first of October pertaining to the matter. When I spoke with Hietarinta I suggested that we<br />

should avoid further requests in the near future.<br />

Finland had received an intergovernmental oil supply agreement. We paid the official OPEC oil<br />

price when the free market prices rose to record levels. The savings were significant. The<br />

agreement supported us also during the price negotiations with our main supplier the Soviet<br />

Union. We were not as susceptible to pressure as prior to the <strong>Saudi</strong> agreement. The Soviet Union<br />

was in 1979 supplying about 60 % of our oil, and <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> about 15 %. The following year the<br />

<strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>n share increased. Trade between Finland and the Soviet Union was trade of goods


34<br />

under a clearing contract. When the import price of oil rose, the volume of exports grew<br />

respectively. A private entrepreneur was able to take advantage of the situation. There was no<br />

advantage for the national economy.<br />

<strong>In</strong> January 1980, top executives of Neste Oy, led by the Chairman of the Supervisory Board<br />

Minister Ulf Sundqvist, visited Jeddah. During a dinner in our residence in honor of oil minister<br />

Ahmed Zaki Yamani I decorated him with the Grand Cross of the Lion Finland. <strong>In</strong> December 1980,<br />

Yamani promised to commit his utmost that Finland would receive in 1981 the requested<br />

additional 200 000 tonnes of oil. Iraq's oil deliveries had been reduced, and <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> was<br />

forced to take care of replacing the production. <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> would reduce its production level<br />

in 1981 from 10.3 million barrels per day to the level of 8.5 million barrels per day, and did not<br />

therefore make new contracts. The agreement with Japan had been cancelled. Yamani estimated<br />

that already in the summer of 1982 there would be a market glut. Finland's current oil supply<br />

agreement was going to be terminated at the end of 1981.<br />

I held ongoing discussions at the Ministry of Oil. <strong>In</strong> most cases, two Americans sat in Yamani’s<br />

waiting room reading newspapers. The same men I happened to see also in the Minister's home<br />

garden. I had the pleasure of acquainting myself with these security men. Yamani had been taken<br />

hostage in Vienna, so he had security concerns. I negotiated with Yamani even in his home. I<br />

stood and watched as the minister prayed. Prayer time came in the middle of our discussions. I<br />

have visited several times oil minister Zaki Yamani’s homes. The home in Jeddah, the one in Taif,<br />

as well as the old home in Riyadh and the new home he had built there. <strong>In</strong> addition he had an<br />

apartment in Geneva, one in London, a house in the Swiss Alps, one on the Riviera and one in<br />

Bahrain. I also went to the house of the oil minister of the United Arab Emirates, built for him in<br />

Abu Dhabi. I do not know whether or not he's actually been there himself. The UAE oil minister<br />

built it for Yamani, whom he admired. The oldest home was in the Al Yamama Hotel in Riyadh.<br />

The entrance was a small side door of the hotel. The home was relatively dark and very <strong>Arabia</strong>n<br />

style.<br />

The Jeddah home, as several others had in the middle of the living room a big pool. The house<br />

was large, it had open walls in the style of the Peninsula of Malacca through which air could flow<br />

freely. This home was a typical home of a wealthy resident of Jeddah, very wealthy.<br />

Yamani had, while visiting Finland, invited my wife and myself to visit his summer residence in<br />

the mountain town of Taif. His wife, Tamam, also wished to meet us. Taif is the administrative<br />

summer capital of <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>. Taif is a town close to Jeddah but about 1 500 m higher up.<br />

During the night there it is smooth as silk. Even the King lived there during the summer, in his<br />

palace. The Yamanis spent the fasting month of Ramadan in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>. Yamani told me that<br />

he was growing dates in Medina, and had 31 different species of these fruit-bearing trees. He<br />

promised us some <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>n dates.


35<br />

Yamani already had a Finnish Sauna in his English residence. During his Midsummer trip he<br />

became fascinated by log cabins that<br />

the company Honkarakenne built. He<br />

ordered two sauna cabins to his Taif<br />

house for his guests and his<br />

daughters. The Saunas functioned<br />

well and were admired. Following<br />

Finnish tradition wooden aisles led to<br />

the houses. They were constructed<br />

by wooden laths close to each other<br />

with a narrow opening between the<br />

laths. This construction turned out to<br />

be hopeless, Arab women always,<br />

when at all possible, used spike<br />

heels. Of course the heels, and so<br />

also the ladies, were caught in the<br />

openings, with disastrous results. <strong>In</strong><br />

The Taif home the pool was out in the<br />

open air. Once I observed that I was<br />

in this pool together with the oil<br />

minister, the Chairman of the Board<br />

of Exxon, the CEO of Exxon and the<br />

CEO of ARAMCO. I really was then<br />

amongst an influential group from<br />

the oil sector.<br />

A new representative residence was<br />

built in Riyadh. There the architects<br />

had been given free hands to make the best of it. Many visitors smiled a little at the <strong>Saudi</strong><br />

tendency to gold plate everything. <strong>In</strong> many bathrooms there were only gilded accessories.<br />

Yamani’s architect had decided to make an exception. Thus, the inside of the Yamani house was<br />

marble and everything was silver plated, which, not coincidentally was chromium. <strong>In</strong>side the<br />

house one could hear constant croaking. The oil minister was by no means croaking, but instead<br />

it happened to be his white parrots. The sound was overpowering. The House was in the interior<br />

quite palace-like. It was really an impressive representation residence. The pool was once again<br />

in a large living room, like in so many other houses of the region.<br />

<strong>In</strong> September 1981, I was in Washington, when Hietarinta from Neste called and told me that<br />

Deputy Minister Sultan from the Oil Ministry was going to travel to Sweden without visiting<br />

Finland. I had previously heard from the construction company YIT that the crude oil storage rock<br />

cavern project, which we were competing for, would be given to the Swedes. I drew attention to


36<br />

the visit of the King of Sweden to <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> and the big Swedish industrial exhibition. The<br />

Swedes had worked very actively towards the benefit of the project. I did not consider it possible<br />

to do much more in the matter. Upon my return to Helsinki, I met with Neste’s Deputy CEO<br />

Hietarinta and Director Rinta as well as the project manager Lars Johansson. We agreed that<br />

Neste would contact the Swedes in order to examine possibilities for cooperation. Neste’s Yrjö<br />

Ignatius would come to <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> to realize the downstream chemical joint venture project.<br />

Neste was prepared to invest one hundred million Finnish Marks (FIM). The project would allow<br />

Neste to obtain petro-chemical raw materials from Petromin more readily.<br />

The CEO of the Confederation of Finnish <strong>In</strong>dustries Stig Hästö told me, while he was in Finland<br />

during an October, that the fall in oil prices on the market had resulted in lower oil revenue in<br />

bilateral trade between Finland and the Soviet Union. As a result, there were now ongoing<br />

negotiations on decreasing orders from Finland. The decline in orders was expected to be three<br />

billion FIM, which also meant canceling already placed orders. It would lead to a difficult situation<br />

in general, and to the bankruptcy of some small factories set up solely for the export to the Soviet<br />

Union. If oil consumption continued to fall and prices remained low then Neste would be left with<br />

two options. Purchases had to be reduced from the Soviet Union or the Middle East, of which the<br />

latter would be the more likely solution. The quantity of oil stored by Neste had earlier been<br />

increased. Neste searched everywhere for investment objects, in order to be able to carry out<br />

deductions before tax. <strong>In</strong> the next years there could arise difficulties when Neste and the power<br />

company Imatran Voima’s interests crashed.<br />

The next day I met Ihamuotila, who wished upon negotiations in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> in November. Neste<br />

wanted to negotiate two million tonnes of crude oil per year, and an option for one million tonnes<br />

more. Neste was interested in loan negotiations with SAMA (<strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>n Monetary Agency).<br />

With regards to the oil cavern storage sector Kamal Adham had again stepped in.<br />

A month later, I was once more in Helsinki, consulting with Ihamuotila and Hietarinta. Neste had<br />

begun to consider a reduction in the volume of imports. It could remain at the current level if<br />

Neste could participate in the implementation rock cavern project for oil storage. The<br />

Government had sought to get Neste to increase their purchases of petroleum products from the<br />

Soviet Union. Neste was ready, provided that they could reduce the crude oil purchases from<br />

there, which did not sit well with the Government. The Government wanted to maintain the<br />

exports to the Soviet Union, with maximal oil purchases from there. Neste did not want to do this<br />

for reasons of oil policy.<br />

Due to poor telephone connections, small misunderstandings arose. I had been working to get<br />

the Deputy Oil Minister Ghazi Sultan to come to Finland. He was a most important contact to get<br />

us involved in the underground cavern oil tanks project. Although he had the use of a large jet, I<br />

had problems with succeeding on my terms. <strong>In</strong> our discussions, I found that he was extremely


37<br />

fond of seafood. I used this information and started to attract him to Finland to taste our famous<br />

seafood. It turned out to be the correct lure, so in November we set off in his plane towards<br />

Helsinki. We arrived in the evening. I still remember how polite the officials at the airport were<br />

when the big private plane landed and only a few passengers stepped out. Business flights were<br />

rarer at that time than now. The weather favored our short visit. I took the Minister for dinner<br />

to the, at that time, best fish restaurant, called Havis, located on the corner of the main market<br />

square. We ate flame-smoked salmon. He was really satisfied with the seafood meal.<br />

The next day, we went to see Minister Rekola and continued to Neste’s head office from where<br />

we took a helicopter to Sköldvik to inspect the constructed caverns for oil storage. <strong>In</strong> Sköldvik we<br />

were supposed to eat the seafood lunch that I had promised. I had called already from Jeddah<br />

and requested fish for the guests. I had not been able to give more details because the telephone<br />

connection was poor, but the fish had indeed been promised to us. Of course, our guest for lunch<br />

was astonished, as we were served chicken and no fish. The phone connection had been really<br />

bad. (Fish is in Finnish = kala and chicken = kana). Fortunately, the previous night's flame smoked<br />

salmon had been appetizing enough.<br />

Minister Sultan was impressed by the rock cavern tanks he saw in Finland. He told us that the<br />

<strong>Saudi</strong> project pursued a storage for seven to fourteen million tonnes of crude. Yamani had not<br />

yet presented the project to Crown Prince Fahed, so all the rumors of the concluded contracts<br />

were unfounded. Bids would be requested from the Finns and the Swedes, who were split into<br />

two separate groups. During the visit it was agreed that the Duty CEO of Neste Jussi Rinta would<br />

visit <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> in January 1982, to familiarize himself with the Yanbu area and the<br />

specifications of the tank caverns. Minister Sultan spoke about the fact that he planned to arrive<br />

with his family in Finland for the summer of 1982.<br />

After my return to <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> I was a part of numerous negotiations with the representatives<br />

of the oil sector, the management of <strong>Saudi</strong> Basic <strong>In</strong>dustries Corporation (SABIC), as well as with<br />

the Minister of <strong>In</strong>dustry during the November-December period. The cavern tank project<br />

proceeded, as well as the joint venture between Neste and the <strong>Saudi</strong>s for the production of<br />

gasoline additives in Al Jubail. <strong>In</strong> December, the representatives of Neste confirmed to SABIC that<br />

they were interested in the establishment of a Joint Venture. Neste Trading was ready to<br />

implement itself on the responsibility of selling the products to the North-West European market.<br />

Yamani was not pleased with the large publicity of the rock storage matter. First, Aramco would<br />

buy small storage caverns to start the Yanbu refinery’s activity. I was told that in June it was close<br />

that the company <strong>Saudi</strong> Oger would have been given the contract for underground concrete<br />

cisterns. The actual rock tanks would be constructed only in Yanbu. At the end of November, it<br />

had been intended to hold the final meeting, where the Defense Minister, Prince Sultan, the<br />

Minister of the <strong>In</strong>terior, Prince Naif, the Minister of Finance and the Oil Minister would all


38<br />

participate. The meeting, however, had been re-scheduled. The American construction company<br />

Fluor contacted Neste. The company was interested in the expert assistance of Neste.<br />

ARAMCO had, additionally to Fluor, taken contact with Neste on the issue of the rock tank matter.<br />

The magnitude of the project made it an even more complex negotiation matter than earlier. The<br />

Finns appeared to have opportunities to make their point across, one way or another. Sweden's<br />

Boliden had become very active on this issue. Finnish engineers were invited to the Yanbu and<br />

Jeddah refineries. These engineers improved our relations with Petromin's engineering team.<br />

The Soviet Union followed in March along the prices of North Sea Oil. Neste had purchased from<br />

the Soviet Union 8.5 million tonnes, from North Sea one million tonnes, and 250 000 tonnes from<br />

Qatar. The <strong>Saudi</strong> oil contract was fulfilled to the smallest detail, despite the difficult market<br />

situation. Finland demonstrated its reliability once again.<br />

I negotiated in March with Yamani. He understood that we could not obtain oil during the year<br />

1982. Neste’s management was under pressure from the press and others in Finland. However,<br />

Yamani hoped to receive a letter from us explaining that we had proposed a renewal of the<br />

agreement, and to hopefully receive a positive response. We would ask to negotiate the<br />

continuation during the second half of the year. Yamani received the letter he requested.<br />

The oil market continued, after the OPEC meeting, applying pressure to reduce the prices. The<br />

chosen victim was Algeria, which received most pressure. The intention was to break the OPEC<br />

front. Yamani did not wish that the prices would go downwards, because it would necessarily<br />

result in an inevitable strong increase. <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> wanted to avoid the rippling. Yamani drew<br />

attention to the decrease of the real prices due to inflation.<br />

I suggested an OPEC meeting in Finland. OPEC could consider holding its May 1983 meeting in<br />

Helsinki. I worked for this meeting a long time because I was hoping the confidential oil supply<br />

relations with the <strong>Arabia</strong>n Gulf countries and the other OPEC members would remain also during<br />

possible future crises. Finland was energy dependent. We should not be dependent on deliveries<br />

from the Soviet Union and possibly even a target of pressure. All countries consider their own<br />

interests. <strong>In</strong> the Arab culture, friendship and confidence were exceptionally important.<br />

During the first days of February 1982, Hietarinta inquired on my view of the continuation of<br />

<strong>Saudi</strong> purchases on the adjusted market situation. I recommended continuation, because in a<br />

crisis situation we could be dependent on crude from <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>. Yamani saw a possibility of<br />

regression, if the stocks emptied once again and economic activity recovered.


39<br />

I was asked to prepare a proposal for Ihamuotila’s letter to Yamani. Finland had, in the current<br />

market situation, no physical potential to import. We could revert to the matter in the near<br />

future. I discussed with Hietarinta and Ihamuotila about how to stay in contact with Yamani and<br />

other <strong>Arabia</strong>n Gulf Oil Suppliers with regard to the new situation. Referring to the planned<br />

general meeting of OPEC on March 19 th we decided to cancel Ihamuotila’s and Hietarinta’s visit<br />

to Petromin, ADNOC and Qatar Oil Company. Helsingin Sanomat had published an unhappy<br />

article about the termination of oil imports from <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>. The leak probably happened at a<br />

meeting of Neste’s supervisory board and auditors. A couple of days later, we discussed the reset<br />

of the price of oil from the Soviet Union. At the same time, it was agreed that I should begin<br />

negotiations around the purchase of one million tonnes from <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> in 1983. The<br />

agreement should commence during the beginning of the year 1983.<br />

The oil markets adjusted again. There was enough crude oil on the market. OPEC was due to<br />

reach uniform prices. From the point of view of the interests of OPEC it might have been a<br />

mistake, that the so-called price hawks, who held short-term oil reserves, such as Nigeria and<br />

Algeria, raised the prices to such a high level that energy importing countries moved more quickly<br />

than expected from oil to coal and other energy variants, which resulted in the current market<br />

situation.<br />

<strong>In</strong> July I told Neste that the <strong>Saudi</strong>s planned to group their clients into “loyals” and “unloyals”. <strong>In</strong><br />

the future the loyals would receive advantages or “preferential treatment." The development of<br />

prices was not possible to predict. The crude oil supply was considered to, again, become more<br />

difficult.<br />

Although <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>'s production was back to within the normal range, there was still a surplus<br />

of oil and the resources would be enough for a long time to come. If the market situation forced<br />

further cuts in oil production in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>, it would not cause serious disruption to the market.<br />

The opposite views of the press were based on the assumption that it was necessary for <strong>Saudi</strong><br />

<strong>Arabia</strong> to implement its development program as fast as presented within the five-year plan.<br />

<strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> felt no necessity. The reason for implementing at the planned speed was the effort<br />

to invest oil proceeds in their own country. It was feared that oil proceeds invested elsewhere<br />

would lose value due to inflation and exchange rate fluctuations. <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>'s economy would<br />

function properly even with half of the production at the time.<br />

Petro wealth’s effects on society


40<br />

The increase in the price of crude oil during the 70 's, due to the production cuts initiated by the<br />

Organization of Petroleum Exporting Countries (OPEC), brought about <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> becoming<br />

very rich very rapidly. Their petroleum wealth provided an opportunity for rapid progress, more<br />

rapid than it has ever been in any country. After only a few week’s trip abroad could the familiar<br />

environment feel strange, especially as street names and address numbers were still missing.<br />

Within a few years the infrastructure was built. The availability of water was provided by building<br />

sea water distilleries, water treatment plants and sewage treatment plants. The country was<br />

industrialized and industry to replace the requirements of importation was built. Food could be<br />

imported enough, however agriculture was developed and sufficient food for the poorest was<br />

secured by strongly subsidizing basic foodstuffs. Electricity was distributed even to remote<br />

villages. Healthcare was developed quickly. Public education was under way. It was possible to<br />

pay attention to safety. Rapid planning in a rapidly changing environment and the<br />

implementation of the envisaged new model was understandably difficult.<br />

Advisors and consultants were needed. To <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> arrived, regrettable quickly, also<br />

dishonest consultants. The human desire for self-assertion was exploited. Plans were born, such<br />

as the development of a paper industry, by planting forests in the desert, and the Riyadh Olympic<br />

Stadium, which had no realistic possibility of being implemented.<br />

Direct swindlers also arrived in the country, and persuaded the fast enriched to buy factories and<br />

equipment, which later lay unused and worthless in the desert. Through this activity increased,<br />

fully understandably, the suspicion of the <strong>Saudi</strong>s, orientated against us Europeans. This made<br />

honest trade more difficult and slowed down prospects of correct project negotiations.<br />

The human tendency for speculation could be seen in the rise of the property valuations and<br />

subsequent earnings from such property. <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> and its neighboring countries strongly<br />

increased their imports. Suppliers required locally a so-called sponsor, who had to guarantee the<br />

reliability of the supplier. Often, these partners did little more than collect their compensation.<br />

Some became corrupt, and, as in so many other countries, bureaucracy, with its well-known<br />

features, grew steadily. The oil-producing countries on the <strong>Arabia</strong>n Peninsula had to import<br />

foreign labor, in the range of around two or three million persons, in order to implement the<br />

projects.<br />

An immigrant was allowed to come to the country to work. Only a few people were allowed to<br />

bring family members with them. It required that one had a notable position or role. All had to<br />

fully accept the local habits and customs. The immigrant encountered many constraints. Any<br />

Christian symbol was not accepted. The slightest neck crosses were not allowed. There were no


41<br />

Churches or church services of any variety, because no priests were allowed into the country.<br />

There was no Alcohol either. From raisins bought from local shops, individuals produced some<br />

secretive wine. Moonshine was sometimes offered at parties. The name of the moonshine was<br />

Sedeeqi (My friend). Women were not allowed to drive a car. Persons of differing gender could<br />

not sit together in a car unless they belonged to the same family.<br />

The Christian Finns who came to <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> met with an entirely new foreign culture. The most<br />

part lived in fenced barrack areas, where they tried to live by their customary way, but with many<br />

restrictions. This culture shock I experienced myself also. My wife felt it even more. An infidel<br />

was not allowed to step into a mosque. Mecca and Medina were fully closed cities. Shops were<br />

closed during prayer times. Prayer is five times per day. If you happened to be in the shop when<br />

prayer time started, you had to stay in there behind closed doors, until the prayer time ended.<br />

The CEO of the American company Bechtel, said once, upon our meeting: "This is the country,<br />

where you with a maximum of input get a minimum of output". He was quite disgusted with all<br />

the adversities he had met.<br />

The local people were often not willing to do heavy work. All forms of business activity increased<br />

in different forms at the same time as the transport chaos. American cars, Rolls Royces and<br />

Mercedes tended to push away the growing quantities of cheaper Japanese cars.<br />

The effects of wealth on individuals began to appear quickly. The health of the people improved<br />

of course, with the development of healthcare, the standard of living increased rapidly and also<br />

the education opportunities of the youth. <strong>In</strong> Arab countries the family is of great importance in<br />

the makeup of society. Parents continue to be respected, and extended families are common.<br />

The extended family and the tribe are together able to bring up its members. They are also<br />

capable of providing economic support. As the country’s wealth increased rapidly several<br />

nomadic traditions remained respected.<br />

If an individual wanted to criticize his community, he was able to do so by speaking directly with<br />

representatives of the administration or with members of the ruling family. <strong>In</strong> this way it was<br />

possible to defuse any criticism. There was not much of this criticism in the controlled press or at<br />

public meetings, it was more a case of face to face confrontation. The press was controlled in<br />

many ways. From arriving foreign press and publications, pictures rated unsuitable were<br />

blackened. The page six girl in the Finnish trade paper Kauppalehti belonged to these blackened<br />

varieties and so were many of the fashion and beach images, as well as ads with sparsely dressed<br />

women. Religious <strong>In</strong>fluence was strong. Islam is a way of life at the same time as being a religion.<br />

I have seen Ministers and entire military units kneel and bow in prayer.


42<br />

The sudden upsurge in wealth brought with it a rapidly growing obesity dilemma. Traditional<br />

lifestyle began to change. The men, however, still embraced and walked hand in hand. Thobe<br />

and Ghutra were still worn as dress while driving in a Cadillac or Datsun and when shopping for<br />

video tapes. A cosmopolitan class was born when outbound tourism increased. A "golden youth"<br />

emerged, with a lifestyle less strict than their parents’. The former Bedouins were now<br />

businessmen. A part of these successful businessmen bought quickly into an industrializing<br />

country.<br />

Old habits, however, were handled by the so-called religious police, which in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> went<br />

by the name "the Committee for the Propagation of Virtue and Prevention of Vice". The classic<br />

forms of punishment were appreciated, as they significantly reduced crime rates. Desert trips<br />

were made on the weekends. One went to the beaches to watch the sunset and to the desert to<br />

watch the night stars, but at the same time one watched one’s mobile TV.<br />

The role of women was not showing signs of change. Women were educated behind walls and<br />

generally segregated from the rest of their community. Only a small number of women had a<br />

working place in the more conservative countries. Women did not complain about their destiny.<br />

Jewelry and evening dresses were purchased.<br />

The modern elite often proclaimed that one should not look for problems in the interaction<br />

between traditional and industrial culture, that the Arabs will not be able to live without the<br />

scientific instruments and the technology of the West.<br />

About one thousand years ago, the Muslim Arabs conquered large areas of the world map,<br />

including Spain. At that time they brought to Europe the foundations of knowledge: science, skills<br />

and culture. The Arabs influenced positively the Renaissance. They had by then scientific<br />

instruments and technology.<br />

A member of the government of a major oil producing country expressed the following views in<br />

public: "Western civilization is not only long hair, sex shows and drugs. Islam can withstand the<br />

introduction of the better aspects of Western civilization. The Arabs need from the Western<br />

civilization: technology, natural sciences, social sciences, business management and scientific<br />

planning principles. The Arabs do not have to accept these traits into their customs, but they can<br />

learn from aspects of Western politics, philosophy, literature and law. Islam did not create Laws<br />

that would deal with maritime issues, airspace or nationality questions. The West transmits easily<br />

also the extrinsic frames, such as advertising and commercialism, which, however, is not<br />

important. The old Arab habits, such as eating habits, bringing uninvited guests to dinners you<br />

are invited to, eating on the floor and arriving at a meeting without having previously agreed the<br />

time, can survive, they do not disturb even if they appear strange to Westerners. The most<br />

important thing for the Arabs was to rid themselves of backwardness. "


43<br />

Oil wealth also brought challenging socioeconomic problems, security risks and political risks.<br />

Migration to the cities was the first sign that the cities were beginning to receive oil wealth. The<br />

rapid increase in the amount of money and inflation were another symptom. The rural areas<br />

emptied fast and the cities were filled.<br />

The additional money in circulation made the oil producing countries consumers of even the most<br />

expensive products of the industrialized countries. <strong>In</strong> the fast growing department stores and<br />

supermarkets of the oil producing countries one could buy all kinds of televisions, stereo<br />

equipment and even living lions.<br />

<strong>In</strong>itially the countries had to import practically everything. They had only one export product,<br />

which again was influenced by the economic climate. It was difficult to get technology from the<br />

industrial countries, because the oil-producing countries lacked the intellectual infrastructure to<br />

exploit the technology and the industrialized countries were indeed willing to sell their latest<br />

knowledge. The sense of insecurity forced the Middle Eastern countries to acquire both suitable<br />

as well as unsuitable weapons.<br />

The old productive habits disappeared. People no longer had a great interest in farming in<br />

difficult climatic conditions, not in the traditional, not in nomadism nor in fishing. As replacement<br />

came no new productive activity. The oil wealth allowed numerous public and semi-public sector<br />

to disguise the unemployed. Trade, service, and speculation were interesting activities. <strong>In</strong> trading<br />

circles the margin and profit expectations were far too high to allow the trade to be considered<br />

normal.<br />

What where the options that the oil producing countries then had? If everyone should have<br />

received money from the government, it would have destroyed every motivation for productive<br />

work and created a pure welfare society. A lot was demanded and a lot was desired, but the<br />

ability to act was missing. <strong>In</strong> reality, a lot of work was needed and the majority had no incentive<br />

to work.<br />

An income distribution problem was born. Some of the families were well known business<br />

families, some of the people were part of the elite. The ruling families of these countries had a<br />

positive role to play, as they kept the nations together and in general had already been in power<br />

for a long time, so their status and authority were well respected. However, their prosperity as<br />

well as the prosperity of the business families was much larger than that of the common people.<br />

There was no taxation to balance the income distribution.


44<br />

An all too large economic disparity between groups of people affects the political stability<br />

negatively and is not socially fair. Disadvantaged groups may look for exterior support due to<br />

their insecurity, their ambitions and frustrations. And not necessarily even from the exterior as<br />

was shown in the Mecca crisis in November-December 1979, when a small group who were<br />

against change attempted to appoint themselves into power using all the wrong methods, and in<br />

the wrong place.<br />

One of my good friends, a member of the Government of <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> said: "Money cannot buy<br />

happiness. If in a community where money is placed ethically before moral behavior then the<br />

community will be destroyed. Not all problems can be solved by buying turn-key ports, power<br />

plants and factories. A wad of cash is not always the solution. "<br />

Even before the change in the oil market, it was noted in oil-producing countries that the best<br />

solution for social problems was to produce less oil and process it further. At the same time one<br />

should develop local production and services, as well as reduce Imports.<br />

Regional integration, as for example, the Gulf Cooperation Council (GCC), contributed to the<br />

development of production potential. When the price of oil fell from its peak, the oil producing<br />

nations became slower in their acquisition of wealth, which may well have been to the benefit of<br />

their long term development.<br />

The Arabs had over the years got used to the fact that the Europeans looked at them a bit from<br />

the top down. Names of a racist, insulting nature were commonly used against the Arabs. It had<br />

been to the contrary earlier, as Arab countries represented the cradle of civilization and ruled in<br />

North Africa as well as in Spain. The petrodollars again brought a time when the Arabs were<br />

wooed and courted, because the rich are often served better. But they did not change all false<br />

perceptions in either direction. We human beings are individuals. Generalizations are always<br />

difficult and often unfair.<br />

Even before the Finnish Embassy in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> there were Finnish companies established in the<br />

country. As an example I mention the construction company YIT, which had created for itself a<br />

prominent position as a contractor specializing in water treatment plants and sewage treatment<br />

plants. The Regional Manager for <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> was Esko Mäkelä, with whom I became friends<br />

during his term of office. The friendship has continued.<br />

<strong>In</strong> <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> the situation was then the same as it is today in the field of racing sport. For<br />

everything in that field a sponsor or <strong>Saudi</strong> partner was needed. YIT had a good sponsor and good<br />

relations. The fast increase of wealth in these countries led to an enormous amount of housing<br />

construction and left the infrastructure behind. There was no railroad. It was destroyed already


45<br />

in the World War I. There was not enough port equipment nor port facilities. Thus it became<br />

necessary to unload cement by helicopter from ships, to name an example of obscure behavior,<br />

which had been waiting outside Jeddah for months. It certainly was not the cheapest course of<br />

action.<br />

YIT had answered to the problems by its own YIT Ro-Ro ferry line, which also supported other<br />

Finnish companies. I used these ships for some trips to Europe and learned in doing so to know<br />

the Suez Canal. Admittedly, I had gone through it in the past without giving much second thought.<br />

The ships entering the channel were obliged, during the trip, to host a group of Egyptians on<br />

board who were paid and given, in addition to food, tobacco and whiskey. Their mission was to<br />

moor the ship if for one reason or another it should be forced to stop. Everyone had a role to<br />

play. One time such a stop happened. It turned out that the Egyptian auxiliary staff brought<br />

nothing but harm. At first they did nothing. Then they stood helpless, with their mittens erect,<br />

and, finally, they did it all wrong. The ship's own crew knew how to handle the situation. For the<br />

Egyptians it was only essential to get the whiskey, tobacco, food and, of course, their salary. Work<br />

and actual application of skill were not considered important factors.<br />

The Royals resided primarily in Riyadh and Jeddah. <strong>In</strong> the summer, they moved to a cooler Taif.<br />

Everywhere there were a number of royal palaces, palaces of the many Princes and palaces also<br />

for the wives. Jeddah contained a number of these palaces, even on the seashore. <strong>In</strong> order to<br />

improve the situation a little, an artificial island was built in front of Jeddah. It was convenient to<br />

build a palace on this island and so it was done. At the same time a great <strong>In</strong>tercontinental hotel<br />

was built on the corniche of Jeddah. When the buildings on the artificial island were almost<br />

completed, it was observed that from the hotel's windows you could look at and possibly even<br />

threaten the people in the island palace. Therefore, the hotel was bought and it never turned out<br />

to be the <strong>In</strong>tercontinental. It too, became a Palace. These palaces were not used excessively,<br />

some were often empty. Still more were built.<br />

The construction industry had real heydays during the oil crisis at a time when oil prices were<br />

high and the Arab countries lived in the petrodollar euphoria. Along <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> large housing<br />

areas for more than a thousand residents, sometimes tens of thousands, were planned and<br />

constructed. The buildings were European-style apartment houses. For example, the size of the<br />

social housing apartments built in Jeddah in the 1980s were the 240 m 2 . The houses could be<br />

from twelve to sixteen stories high. As the entire activity was new in a foreign environment, in<br />

the beginning a variety of deviations were performed. Some of the rumors in circulation might<br />

well, of course, have been exaggerated. Always the measurements between drawings and reality<br />

did not match. The houses became high, but the rooms not. There were stories about a big<br />

apartment house with a room height of only 175 cm (5ft 9”). It was not possible for most to stand<br />

straight at all. The builder had made a mistake. The house was demolished.


46<br />

All the great housing areas for between one thousand and ten thousand inhabitants could not be<br />

put to use immediately. No water pipes nor sewage piping had yet been built. On the other hand,<br />

nomads, the Bedouins, were used to living in tents. <strong>In</strong>to the high-rise apartment houses they<br />

could not bring their sheep and goats. This was quite a problem. <strong>In</strong> addition to these two causes<br />

there were very local reasons. Some of the houses were built by the French, as I recall, they had<br />

built around every staircase an elevator (lift), as is customary in Europe. Well, in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong><br />

nobody was able to think of having men and women in the same elevator. Therefore separate<br />

“mens’ lifts” and “ladies’ lifts” were needed in every staircase. As it was no longer possible to<br />

place the double elevators in the narrow elevator shafts, the houses could not be used. I always<br />

used to call these houses “reserve houses”. It was a decent principle to build houses, for any<br />

possible future requirement.<br />

Finnish contractors and companies participated successfully in the development projects. Most<br />

active in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> during the seventies and eighties however, were American companies,<br />

implementing development projects, and at the same time, building a defense system and air<br />

bases.<br />

Driving around and along the <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>n deserts was one of the few recreational activities<br />

that I define as being very interesting. Once a while one found excellent expressways. These<br />

roads began in the middle of the desert and ended somewhere else once again in the middle of<br />

the desert. I used to call these expressways “reserve motorways”. I almost never found anyone<br />

else using them.<br />

Often when I drove along the desert I found great fly-overs. There was no road in the<br />

neighborhood, not even a “reserve road”. I called these fly-overs “reserve fly-overs”. There had<br />

been a good reason to build them. Possibly a “reserve road” would be built in the future. Based<br />

on what I have written it should be easy to guess what a “reserve hospital” stands for. It should<br />

be noted that during the petrodollar boom time in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> there were many “reserve<br />

hospitals” or hospitals, for which there was no staff. Perhaps they would be needed in the future.<br />

Hotels, especially luxury hotels, bloomed up like mushrooms after the rain. Business men and<br />

consultants, who in the early days of the petrodollar boom had slept in hotel corridors or even<br />

park benches could now choose between suites. Often the rooms were empty. There was no<br />

tourism.<br />

As commented above were the deviations during the early ecstatic boom time. One could at that<br />

time sneer, but the end result was a fine network of roads and a functioning society. During the<br />

rapid growth phase various contractors implemented their projects at different speeds.


47<br />

After a few years of rapid construction work there was no lack of hotels and public facilities in<br />

the oil-rich countries. There was also no lack of residential houses. Rooms in hotels, restaurants<br />

and public facilities that are needed for obvious reasons are mens’ and womens’ restrooms. The<br />

doors used to have a sign showing that this is the appropriate gender for the men’s room or lady’s<br />

room. European, American and Korean contractors were responsible for the construction work.<br />

The ladies’ restrooms are in Europe often identified by a stylized lady’s picture. A dress says “For<br />

ladies” and a pair of trousers “For men”. But the <strong>Saudi</strong> men used long shirts, appearing on a<br />

stylized picture quite similar to a dress. I remember always the surprise of the ambassadors’<br />

wives at the opening party of the Meridien hotel in Jeddah. European women and local men<br />

opted to go to the restroom they perceived as the symbol recognized as theirs. I am not going to<br />

describe the resulting confusion. The symbols on the doors were rapidly replaced.<br />

<strong>In</strong> many places the ladies’ rooms proved to be very useful. As the passengers moving in the air<br />

terminals were almost exclusively men, the male Filipino cleaning staff had frequently noted, that<br />

the best place to sleep, smoke or eat was in the ladies' room. This surprised the European ladies<br />

who went to these rooms. My wife was one of the astonished. By contacting the cleaning<br />

supervisors the restrooms were quickly cleared.<br />

All people have concerns, worries, even the enriched. As dinner is eaten only after midnight, it is<br />

usual to sit before dinner chatting and drinking, in turn, tea and Arabic coffee, a light colored<br />

strongly cardamom tasting brew. I once attended a discussion before dinner on aviation. I was<br />

interested as my father had been an air force officer. A prominent businessman Gaith Pharaon,<br />

and some of the other lamented the problems they had with their aircraft. At the same time they<br />

were disputing about whether it was cheaper to buy for private use a new Gulfstream or a used<br />

Boeing 707 jet. They were in agreement that parking and maintenance in London for the plane<br />

was very expensive. A cheaper alternative was that upon arrival in London, the pilot immediately<br />

continued to Brussels, where Sabena would service the plane at a lower price than the English.<br />

When the Sheikhs in the morning again wanted to continue their flight they could give the pilot<br />

a call. He would fly from Brussels to London airport in about the same time it took by car from<br />

the over-crowded center of London. Wealth did not remove all concerns, you see.


48<br />

The hotels became more and more luxurious. I often had trouble explaining that ambassadors do<br />

not stay in<br />

suites, as the<br />

Foreign<br />

Ministry’s<br />

Economic<br />

Bureau would<br />

not approve<br />

the travel<br />

expenses, but<br />

in a standard<br />

room. Finally<br />

the Arabs<br />

found a<br />

solution. The<br />

Ambassador<br />

was given a<br />

suite, but at<br />

the standard<br />

room price.<br />

This was not hurting the taxpayer, so I agreed under pressure to accept even a big suite. <strong>In</strong><br />

addition to suites the major hotels built separate villas for important guests, like noble Arabs.<br />

The word mini-palace was more descriptive than villa. One of the hotels once placed a Finnish<br />

delegation, of which I was a member, in such a villa. The delegation was introduced to the rooms<br />

and there were a lot of rooms. Finally we came to the TV-room, but there was no TV. There was<br />

everything else, including a two-wall library and sofas with shiny pillows etc. One guest had the<br />

nerve to point out the lack of TV. The guide went to the wall and pressed a button, one of the<br />

book shelves swung away and in came the TV. Next morning it was difficult to get the delegation<br />

to assemble for breakfast. It had been agreed that breakfast is eaten in the breakfast room of the<br />

chairman of the delegation, but there were so many rooms that the members of the delegation<br />

had problems to find the correct room and it then became difficult to find the members of the<br />

delegation.


49<br />

The rapid enrichment was followed by a “nouveau riche" phenomenon. The same phenomenon<br />

could later be<br />

observed when<br />

Russia´s<br />

economy began<br />

to grow as<br />

rapidly as it did at<br />

the time. Fast.<br />

During my term<br />

as ambassador I<br />

could see in<br />

<strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> the<br />

richer <strong>Saudi</strong>s<br />

living in their<br />

own houses,<br />

usually called<br />

villas, while<br />

poorer <strong>Saudi</strong>s<br />

often lived in<br />

tents, as poorer <strong>Saudi</strong>s usually were Bedouins, who lived in the desert. Other poorer people<br />

tended not to be <strong>Saudi</strong>s, but expatriate labor. They lived either in various stone houses or in<br />

shanty towns, which were built by foreign companies for their employees. The <strong>Saudi</strong> use of the<br />

word villa easily springs to mind a simple Nordic summer house. I thought that their villas were<br />

of the same size, until I discovered that one villa had 3 elevators. The villas were thus relatively<br />

bulky. The rooms were large and the interior frequently designed by Italian architects to be very<br />

modern or alternately so-called Egyptian Baroque. Egyptian "Baroque" has gold as other styles<br />

of Baroque, but it is mainly located in different parts of the very large-sized sofas and armchairs.<br />

The old Arabic way of living had come from the tents. <strong>In</strong> the<br />

middle of the room were big carpets or one very large carpet<br />

and all the other furniture had been placed along the wall with<br />

the back towards the wall. From this decoration, the Italians<br />

had sought to develop a little more of a European style of<br />

model, adding decoration of glass and other shining surfaces.<br />

Solutions varied according to family. The beds were very<br />

imaginative. They were really big and they had been equipped<br />

with all the accessories for a bed that one might imagine, from<br />

a variety of radio equipment to television sets. Refrigerators<br />

were often also built into a bed.<br />

I have already mentioned that the <strong>Saudi</strong> home had several<br />

televisions. <strong>In</strong> addition, the homes had still more phones.<br />

Typically, these phones were always ringing, unless someone<br />

was talking on each incoming line of the house. Night phone


50<br />

calls seemed part of the <strong>Saudi</strong> way of life. Mobile phones were not yet in general use. The<br />

interior decoration of <strong>Saudi</strong> homes included art. Mostly, the art had Islamic motifs. Since some<br />

of the suddenly enriched wanted to buy the kind of art that was known to be appreciated by<br />

others, such art was available in the local shops, such as, for example, copies of Da Vinci's Mona<br />

Lisa painting. But a mere copy of the Mona Lisa itself was of course not very entertaining, as<br />

one had to watch it constantly. It was necessary to make it practical. Thus, the shops sold<br />

Mona-Lisa with added hands of the clock, so the painting became a clock, which was very<br />

practical. This was art applied practically.<br />

<strong>In</strong> <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> people liked to have their TVs running, and they really liked them running. Several<br />

<strong>Saudi</strong> homes had a television set in every room, and they were always running. The receivers<br />

were in addition set to be relatively loud. The programs were official programs. I did not follow<br />

them because I found them quite long-winded. The events on the news were certainly<br />

interesting. It was told which important foreigner had visited the king, one of the princes, or<br />

another Minister. Also the ambassadors’ visits were reported in the news. The visit reports were<br />

usually accompanied by marching music melodies, the contents of the discussions always<br />

described in the same brief way: "Discussions were held on matters of mutual interest." It was<br />

never said what matters were really discussed, and never explained about anything mutually<br />

interesting. Perhaps this explains why I did not normally watch the news.<br />

Extra large satellite dishes I first saw on the <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>n family houses’ yards. They were used<br />

to pick up satellite broadcastings of television programs. I do not know if, at that time, satellites<br />

were transmitting programs which were prohibited in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>. If one could not get them<br />

from satellites one could get them by buying prohibited videotapes.<br />

The Embassy employed a tea-boy. All offices in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> had tea-boys. Their duty was to carry<br />

tea to those working in the offices and their guests. The tea was needed because of the heat and<br />

it was also an Arab tradition. Especially the working <strong>Saudi</strong>s needed tea. Many did not do any<br />

other work than to drink tea. For other work foreign labor was used. Our tea-boy seemed modest.<br />

He was not very young. Perhaps it would have been better to call him a tea-man. He never said<br />

anything. His being on holiday largely went unnoticed. It was observed that somebody else was<br />

to distribute tea. One day, his wife, whose existence was not even known by me, came to the<br />

embassy gate, crying, and explained to us that her husband had been arrested. She wanted my<br />

help to get her husband out of the cell. When I tried to find out why this Yemeni had been<br />

arrested, it turned out that he was the organizer of a porn movie copying enterprise. I would<br />

assume that the company did well, because later we discovered that he had bought with his<br />

earnings during his holiday trips a big agricultural property in Yemen. The Embassy employed a<br />

new tea-boy.


51<br />

Finnish art in Jeddah<br />

As an example of private <strong>Saudi</strong> residence let me mention that of the Mayor of Jeddah, Said al<br />

Farsi. It was his old home. He was, at the time, building another, which I never witnessed being<br />

accomplished. One time, I went to a new home under construction, however, and found it built<br />

around a boulder. This unique megalith was an art experience, standing in the center of what would be<br />

its future living room. It was impressive, all people do not have a very large boulder in their home.<br />

The old home was also very impressive. There was a collection of everything, which impresses a<br />

viewer. There were all varieties of art styles, all colors and all sizes. The home was not missing<br />

the antiques of old Yemeni palace art and decorations from the time of the Queen of Sheba.<br />

These pieces of art were not, however, for the most part, exhibited. Archaeologically extremely<br />

valuable pieces of art were found hidden in table and cabinet drawers. Each of these objects<br />

should have been exhibited in a Museum, but they were instead in drawers in the House. Those<br />

who were interested, however, were given the right to inspect them. The host was happy to<br />

show them. Otherwise, the decoration items of the host, mayor Farsi included everything.<br />

Baroque, empire and the latest Avant guard was everything mixed into one. On the table were<br />

side-by-side small sculptures by famous artists, books, and cigarette lighters redesigned from<br />

Coca-Cola cans and hand grenades. The collection was, indeed, varied and interesting.<br />

The same Jeddah mayor had bought five of Henry Moore’s sculptures. These large-format high<br />

value sculptures I had, to my surprise, found scattered here and there in the middle of building<br />

material and construction waste in Jeddah. This gave me the incentive to telI mayor Farsi that we<br />

have famous sculptors in Finland also. I mentioned of them Eila Hiltunen, Laila Pullinen and Raimo<br />

Utriainen, who was the artist of the year in 1980. Farsi suggested that I should invite them to visit<br />

<strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> and sent me First class airline tickets for them. The visual artists Eila Hiltunen and<br />

Laila Pullinen have made Finnish art and the country Finland known in particular by treating metal<br />

in various ways. Eila Hiltunen is such a good welder that the Finnish shipbuilding industry has lost<br />

a lot of talent, after she did not choose to become an industrial welder. However, Eila’s decision<br />

to become a sculptor was certainly to become a benefit to Finland. Eila’s vividness and liveliness,<br />

as well as her fantastic dynamism, I have learned to appreciate. I recall these characteristics when<br />

I pass the Sibelius monument in Helsinki. I have always admired the curved shapes of Laila<br />

Pullinen. By this I do not primarily mean her own, but her artworks. The ones I've seen in<br />

buildings, ships, airports and downtown Jeddah then still barren streets. Her Nissbacka Park<br />

exhibition is deeply ingrained in my memory.


52<br />

I invited both the artists at the same time,<br />

as a naïve innocent I thought they would<br />

enjoy being together in this very different<br />

country. They enjoyed the visit, but there<br />

was excitement in the air, which<br />

sometimes was expressed in words. The<br />

end result was that, after Farsi, having<br />

during his visit to Finland visited even the<br />

artists’ ateliers soon sculptures by both<br />

Hiltunen and Pullinen were erected in<br />

Jeddah, I was expected to continue this art<br />

trade, without any provision. I did my<br />

best, as was the case with other projects. The biggest sculpture in Jeddah was Hiltunen's "Sun<br />

flower field", created using stainless steel, on the corniche.<br />

Of all the Finnish construction companies working in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>, the company Partek was the<br />

one most interested in Farsi’s visit to Finland. He was close to the Royal family, as a customer<br />

significant. He had, during the busy construction season, which was still active, reached the stage<br />

of "beautification" or taken to beautify the city of Jeddah. This aim offered possibilities also to<br />

other Finnish companies. Together with the local manager of Partek Tapani Homanen, I prepared<br />

the trip and accompanied Farsi and his wife. <strong>In</strong> Helsinki we went to the Minister for Trade and<br />

<strong>In</strong>dustry, Ulf Sundqvist, in his office. Visits to the Minister responsible for a certain sector with no<br />

concrete problem are in international practice called "courtesy calls". Minister Uffe Sundqvist


53<br />

said that after the visit of mayor Farsi he for the first time really understood, what a "courtesy<br />

call" actually is. Farsi, having entered the room, shook hands with the Minister, said a few polite<br />

words, and sat down. He then called his assistant, who came and presented to Minister Sundqvist<br />

a <strong>Saudi</strong> cloak, an Arab sword and a medal. After this, Farsi, rose, shook hands once more and left.<br />

None of us lost any valuable time. A similar courtesy call was made to the Mayor of Helsinki,<br />

Raimo Ilaskivi.<br />

Mrs Farsi was involved in exploring, among other things, the Helsinki fur shops. Yes, a <strong>Saudi</strong> lady<br />

was able to use a fur coat even at home by setting the air conditioner to “cold” enough. <strong>In</strong><br />

addition, the <strong>Saudi</strong>s travelled even during the winter. <strong>In</strong> the City of Turku we visited a Friitala<br />

leather garment store. Mrs Farsi and her companion looked at various garments and threw them<br />

in a big stack onto the shop’s table. The saleswoman became steadily more unhappy as time<br />

passed, when nothing seemed to fit. Finally, the lively debate in Arabic stopped and the other<br />

lady was left with a blouse in her hand. The ladies were at last ready to purchase. The saleswoman<br />

became all the more shocked when it turned out that the ladies did not only want to buy this one<br />

piece, but the entire stack, which had been growing on the table.<br />

The Mayor had studied architecture in Egypt. While in Helsinki, I used a small program break to<br />

illustrate to the Farsi couple the Temple Church that a couple of my university acquaintances,<br />

architects Timo and Tuomo Suomalainen, had created. Farsi was indeed fascinated by the church.<br />

He wanted to <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> a similar one, though for it not to be a church. I received an invitation<br />

to <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> to be forwarded to these architects, and they did eventually comply.<br />

Visits and consultations<br />

Their Majesties the King of Sweden Carl XVI Gustaf and Queen Sylvia once conducted a State visit<br />

to <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>. The Swedes told me that during the preparation of the trip, the <strong>Saudi</strong>s had asked<br />

what time of day the Swedish King’s plane would land in the capital Riyadh. When they were<br />

informed that the King would arrive on an SAS commercial route, which flew from Stockholm to<br />

Jeddah and not to Riyadh, they became confused, and asked to be given a break. After a while,<br />

they returned to inform the Swedes that His Majesty King Khaled would be happy with sending<br />

his plane to pick up his Majesty the King of Sweden from Stockholm. This was not convenient<br />

according to the Swedish Protocol. A solution was found. The King of Sweden landed on the route<br />

flight in Jeddah, where he was greeted, by the Protocol representatives. Then His Majesty King<br />

Carl XVI Gustaf entered the private Boeing 747 Jumbo Jet of His Majesty King Khaled, which<br />

landed in Riyadh. The <strong>Saudi</strong> TV cameras covering the welcoming ceremony were set up so that<br />

nobody should get the impression that the King was not stepping out from his own Jumbo Jet.<br />

Her Majesty Queen Silvia survived a difficult press conference with both challenging as well as<br />

somewhat rude questions from the Swedish media. The Queen did have media experience from<br />

her youth, and she knew how to combine it with her royal status. It was a pleasure to discuss<br />

matters with her.<br />

<strong>In</strong> the course of the Petrodollar boom consultants, contractors and exporters were eager to enter<br />

the markets of the oil-producing countries. They were supported by means of unofficial and


54<br />

official visits by Heads of State and Government, Ministers and even Royals. The oil-producing<br />

countries were delighted by the floods of top dignitaries visiting their countries. Because the<br />

countries had not been appreciated in the past, visitors had formerly arrived very seldom. But<br />

too much is, of course, too much. To organize and manage the visits they did not have a sufficient<br />

network. The Arabs, however, are excellent improvisers.<br />

Even the official guests from Finland insisted, before a visit, on an exact itinerary to abide by. I<br />

never dared to say that there was nobody preparing such an itinerary. Visits were arranged<br />

wonderfully, but the official programs were usually formalized in a spontaneous moment of<br />

improvisation. I have been sitting in a meeting with a <strong>Saudi</strong> Minister, when he has received a call<br />

from a fast moving motorcade, at the same time looking for a suitable person to visit. Guests<br />

never observed these improvisations. I always gave to Finnish guests in advance a detailed<br />

program, which they had asked for, but in truth I could never obtain anything official as it, quite<br />

simply, did not exist. My program was totally based on my “guesstimates” and prior experience.<br />

I wrote on it "preliminary" and I pointed out that changes must be prepared for. The guests did<br />

not need to know that everything would be changed and they did not observe it. They had their<br />

preliminary program and were satisfied.<br />

We had, with great care, prepared the visit of Foreign Minister Paavo Väyrynen. He visited <strong>Saudi</strong><br />

<strong>Arabia</strong> in November 1979. Ambassador and former Foreign Minister Paavo Rantanen tells in his<br />

memoirs "The Winter Minister" that I had succeeded in creating a wide network of relations<br />

within the highest circles in the country in the interest of Finland, and that I had arranged a great<br />

program. He considered my activity to be a prime example of what a diplomat at best can<br />

achieve. One rarely hears or reads statements like this one. Foreign Minister Väyrynen visited<br />

the King and several ministers. Minister Rantanen was impressed by the delegation's visit to oil<br />

Minister Yamani’s private house, where we also met Mrs. Tamam Yamani, who was, this time,<br />

dressed in a European way, which was certainly not the custom in the country. The Managing<br />

Director of the Association of Finnish <strong>In</strong>dustries Mr Stig Hästö tells in his own memoirs about his<br />

participation in the visiting delegation and considers that I was appreciated by the <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>n<br />

rulers. I presume he meant ministers. Hästö also tells about the recipients at the airport, led by<br />

two-meter tall, elegant, in a white and black <strong>Saudi</strong> dress clothed Foreign Minister, Prince Saud al<br />

Faisal. There was an honor company with military orchestra and in the background important<br />

bearded <strong>Saudi</strong> dressed high dignitaries. Väyrynen was amazed at the solemn reception, put on<br />

his shoes and stepped out of the plane in a crumpled brown suit, brown shoes, and a colored<br />

shirt. The reception, was according to Hästö, impressive. The Finns’ arrival on the scene was not.<br />

I was highly acclaimed in the texts, but I should have been criticized also as I had not remembered<br />

to warn the delegation about the welcoming ceremony.<br />

On the second day of the visit His Majesty King Khaled ibn Abdulaziz received the whole<br />

delegation. Hästö describes the motorcade with jeeps equipped with military hardware to the<br />

post- and anterior. He describes the extensive Palace, whose corridors had sabre-equipped<br />

bodyguards along the walls. The King received in a quite a large room. Next to one long wall sat<br />

Crown Prince Fahed and other high officials. The delegation was seated along the opposite wall.<br />

I had given a crash course in Arab practices and warned my delegation not to laugh out loud, and


55<br />

to sit so that the shoe soles were not visible. I had also explained that coffee and tea, as with<br />

everything else, should always be taken with the right hand only. Only Minister Väyrynen should<br />

speak. King Khaled was already an old, tired and illness influenced man, who was not really fully<br />

aware from where the delegation had come. Väyrynen asked His Majesty if he could read a<br />

written greeting from the President of the Republic Urho Kekkonen. King Khaled asked whether<br />

Väyrynen was familiar with the pilgrim question. Väyrynen attempted three times with no avail<br />

to start to read the letter but finally he gave up and put the folded paper on a table next to the<br />

King. Väyrynen sought to present the Middle East policy of Finland and the objectives in the<br />

Kingdom of <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>, and Khaled the new developments of the pilgrimage. This strange<br />

dialogue was interpreted. When the delegation, after drinking Arabic coffee, rose to leave, it was<br />

said in loud voice from the Crown Prince’s party that the delegation had no cause for concern,<br />

because our message had been heard.<br />

Foreign Secretary Väyrynen was very happy with his official visit. The other discussions had been<br />

interesting and Finland's chances of receiving further projects had decent prospective. I had been<br />

in the country for two years. Väyrynen offered me the possibility to move to another interesting<br />

place. I found it more interesting to stay in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> for a few years to keep abreast of the<br />

huge and rapid process of development in the <strong>Arabia</strong>n Peninsula, which provided our<br />

construction companies, consultant agencies and industry great possibilities. I stayed in the area<br />

for five years.<br />

*


56<br />

Finland's relations with, and the visibility in the area began around the turn of the year 1979-80<br />

to be very satisfactory. Väyrynen’s visit was a success and got a good publicity in the local press.<br />

The <strong>Saudi</strong> Minister of Agriculture Dr. Abdul Rahman ash Sheikh who had studied in Finland made<br />

a visit in November to Finland. The joint commission meeting was held in the first half of<br />

December. Finnish companies participated in the building exhibition in December in Dhahran.<br />

Minister Esko Rekola took a business delegation to the United Arab Emirates, Oman, Qatar and<br />

Bahrain in January 1980. A ship carrying a Scan-Arab exhibition toured the <strong>Arabia</strong>n Peninsula in<br />

February 1980. Finnish experts came to work in the <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>n Ministry for Public Works and<br />

Housing. With the <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>n Monetary Agency, we discussed a new 50 million US $ loan.<br />

The big increase of the price of crude oil created a need for capital in oil importing countries and<br />

increased in the oil producing countries the amount of petrodollars which had to be invested.<br />

Earlier I have written about oil. Also the cooperation on the financial sector was vivid. Our<br />

Ministry of Finance appreciated the improved relations with SAMA, the <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>n Central<br />

Bank. We had regular loan negotiations. Our good relations with <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> made it possible<br />

to negotiate loans when we needed to appropriate terms. The Ministry of Finance was in these


57<br />

negotiations represented effectively by Veikko Kantola and Annikki Saarela. I kept constant<br />

contact with the Executive<br />

Director Abdul Aziz al Quraishi<br />

and investment Department<br />

Director Ahmed Abdullatif. I've<br />

always appreciated the <strong>Saudi</strong><br />

sense of humor. Al Quraishi was<br />

like many other <strong>Saudi</strong>s ready for<br />

small practical jokes. <strong>Saudi</strong><br />

<strong>Arabia</strong> is, as is well known, a<br />

male dominated country, where<br />

women often are veiled in the<br />

background. I got al Quraishi to<br />

agree to the fact that Annikki<br />

Saarela would arrive in Riyadh to<br />

chair the loan negotiations. She came and was reportedly the first woman that visited the <strong>Saudi</strong><br />

<strong>Arabia</strong>n Monetary Agency’s impressive twin tower building. A meeting like this had not happened<br />

in SAMA before. All went well and normally as loan negotiations usually do. There was talk of<br />

conditions and argument about basis points in order to determine the correct interest rate. It<br />

was a hot day and it was necessary to drink plenty of fluids. <strong>In</strong> <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>, the fluids were coffee,<br />

tea, juices and water. At one point our main negotiator asked her neighbor, my wife <strong>In</strong>ger, in a<br />

whisper, in what direction she would find the Ladies’ powder room. We Finns asked the <strong>Saudi</strong>s.<br />

There was none. At least not on the directors’ floor where no ladies worked. The <strong>Saudi</strong>s began to<br />

act after a lively discussion with each other. One of the building's floors was cleared and police<br />

put to guard the doors. This isolated floor then acted as “ladies powder-room”. Of course, there<br />

was a bathroom and other necessary facilities. <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> was a number of years the country,<br />

from where Finland had its biggest loans.<br />

<strong>In</strong> June we got the Director-General Abdul Aziz al Quraishi on a visit to Finland with the<br />

investment Director Ahmed Abdullatif . Together with the Member of the Board of the Bank of<br />

Finland, a Pentti Uusivirta, I took the visitors in a small jet to the Åland isles, Lapland and Savo. <strong>In</strong><br />

Helsinki, the guests discussed with Prime Minister Mauno Koivisto. Koivisto inquired about the<br />

development of the price of oil. Al Quraishi was of the opinion that the price would not rise in a<br />

year. He did not expect a new oil shock, as long as the OECD countries understood to continue<br />

the austerity measures. Koivisto spoke of there being in the new trade agreement that the Soviet<br />

Union had agreed to increase the oil supply as Koivisto had expected the supplies to fall. On Al<br />

Quraishi’s question of rates, Koivisto said the Soviet Union used market prizes at their upper level<br />

of about US$37 per barrel. Al Quraishi said <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> was selling at $32 and the others slightly<br />

higher.<br />

President Kekkonen received Al Quraishi in his Tamminiemi residence on the eighth of June,<br />

1981. With us came Bank Director Kari Nars. President Kekkonen was deeply concerned by the


58<br />

situation in the world. He said that every<br />

day that we are able to survive without a<br />

war is a victory day. Al Quraishi said he<br />

agreed with the world situation.<br />

Kekkonen said Yamani had visited Finland<br />

and that Finland had friends in <strong>Saudi</strong><br />

<strong>Arabia</strong>. The most valuable capital of<br />

countries are people. Finland has with<br />

entirely its own strength built its country<br />

and its economy. Finland has complied<br />

with a balanced development of the<br />

economy in a way that had at the same<br />

time taken care of the political, social and economic development. For Finland, said al Quraishi,<br />

it had gone well due to its wise leadership. The President drew attention to the fact that you<br />

cannot take two steps at a time, you must take one step at a time. He said that he had discussed<br />

this with many representatives of the international economy. This simple thing many did not<br />

want to understand. Al Quraishi agreed with the President's mode of thought. The aged President<br />

of the Republic had, during the visit, short memory failures. He talked about Yamani’s visit as<br />

very recent though it already was nearly two years ago.<br />

The primary focus with my work in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> and five neighboring countries was transferred<br />

to supporting project activities and to keep track of the political development in the Middle East.<br />

<strong>In</strong>dustry and electricity Minister Dr Ghazi A. Algosaibi became our permanent family friend. With<br />

his support in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> several interesting projects for Finland were born during my time in<br />

office and even a production facility partly owned and constructed by Neste, our National Oil<br />

company. I wanted for Algosaibi to visit Finland and finally he agreed. The only condition was<br />

that he would not have to visit any factories and listen to engineers’ over-length and excessively<br />

detailed reviews. I accepted the condition and travelled with him in July 1980. <strong>In</strong> Finland we flew<br />

to Kuusamo in the North accompanied by <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>n <strong>In</strong>dustrial Development Organization<br />

Director-General Abdul Aziz az Zamil. From the air I showed him Finnish industry, so that the<br />

Minister would see Finnish <strong>In</strong>dustry without us breaking the agreed condition. The hosting of the<br />

visit was done in an excellent way by my former fellow students Nokia CEO Kari Kairamo and<br />

Director Matti Nuutila.<br />

I had been telling the visitors that in Lapland we had "rapid shooting" on the program. I had been<br />

misunderstood and the visitors expected "rabbit shooting" or rabbit hunting. The Minister sent<br />

his Director-General to the rafting. This journey the on his return white-faced son of the desert<br />

did not forget soon. <strong>In</strong> Kuusamo, the weather was at its most beautiful. Kuusamo, with its log<br />

cottages, and while we were driving, its reindeer, remained in the visitors’ memories as in the<br />

memories of many other visitors of Lapland and Kuusamo. The Guests were also acquainted with<br />

Finnish hunting weapons.<br />

We went back to Helsinki, where there was a press conference. The first question was "what do<br />

you think of the Finnish industry?" I was really interested in the answer. It came prompt: "All,<br />

that I've seen, has made a good impression". The answer was honest. After all, our guests saw<br />

some industry from the plane.


59<br />

The visit of Minister Algosaibi included a courtesy call to Foreign Minister Paavo Väyrynen, who<br />

had previously visited <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>. The discussion moved on from serious subjects to lighter<br />

ones, and Väyrynen said to us that he had in Lapland, as I recall, caught a 11 kg salmon. I took<br />

part in the conversation, asking if the Minister could show a photo of the salmon. Väyrynen had<br />

no photo to show. Only later did it become clear that the question was interpreted by Algosaibi<br />

in a very <strong>Arabia</strong>n way. My goal was to let our guests see the picture of a really big fish. Algosaibi<br />

had been fishing in the Turku archipelago and caught some cod and was very fond of them.<br />

Algosaibi thought I had wanted to catch out Minister Väyrynen for lying about the size of his fish.<br />

That had not come to my mind.<br />

The Finns received new construction projects, new electrification projects and cartography<br />

projects. The number of Finnish consultants and experts in <strong>Saudi</strong> ministries increased. <strong>In</strong> the field<br />

of electrification, concrete joint operation was negotiated.<br />

<strong>In</strong>dustry Minister Ghazi Algosaibi really enjoyed his visit to Finland. During many of the dinners I<br />

took part in in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>, he told everyone about the rapids and Kuusamo, and about Finland<br />

generally. Ghazi wanted to invite his Finnish host on a visit to <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>. Together we began<br />

to plan an “out of ordinary” visit program. Ghazi had his very wealthy country's resources at his<br />

disposal, and I again had, during my time in the University of Technology in Helsinki, been the<br />

host of the Student organization. My follower was Kari Kairamo, later Nokia CEO. Ghazi invited<br />

his guests with spouses in March 1981. Additionally to the Minister of trade and industry Ulf<br />

Sundqvist and Nokia CEO Kari Kairamo, and also the CEO of our National Oil Company Jaakko<br />

Ihamuotila and Ambassador Unto Turunen participated in the visit. The visit experience could<br />

affect the fact that Turunen sought and was appointed in due course my follower.<br />

We met upon arrival of the group in Riyadh with Oil Minister Yamani. Sundqvist told us that the<br />

Soviet Union had been cutting its oil supplies to Finland and additionally reserved the option of<br />

a further 10% reduction. Yamani considered it possible that we might be able to get oil from Iran.<br />

<strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> should not raise prices. The continuation of the existing agreement until the end of<br />

the year in Finland would be negotiated during the same month. Yamani spoke of the expected<br />

surpluses of the oil, when stocks should once again reach the 1979 level.<br />

The next day, we visited the Foreign Minister, Prince Saud al Feisal, to whom Sundqvist presented<br />

a letter from President Kekkonen. The Foreign Minister said relations with Finland had, during<br />

the past year, increased and grown enormously. The Prince said that he aimed to visit Finland to<br />

see the midnight sun, as his friends Yamani and Algosaibi had said that the visit was worthwhile.<br />

The Gulf question, the war between Iraq and Iran was discussed. About Camp David, Saud al<br />

Faisal said that it did not bring peace. Unfortunately, by splitting the Arab front it gave the Soviet<br />

Union the opportunity to once again involve themselves in the Middle East question.


60<br />

We then made an interesting trip to the <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>n countryside. We visited a group of camel<br />

herding Bedouins. Our meals were organized in Bedouin tents. There was a large number of<br />

camels and we were riding them in the desert, which was a real ordeal for our backs. A camel is<br />

rising up rear end first, which will<br />

inevitably makes your back hit<br />

the wooden carrying knob on the<br />

back of the saddle. Fortunately,<br />

none were broken. No back nor<br />

knob. Camel's milk and camel<br />

meat was offered. During the<br />

same trip we got the memorable<br />

image of the camels’ love life. We<br />

also got to see how the female<br />

camel was fertilized. The method<br />

was not insemination. I've always<br />

been an avid amateur<br />

photographer. Now I was more<br />

eager than usual. A part of these<br />

nature pictures were later circulated within the <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>n government, receiving deserved<br />

attention.<br />

<strong>In</strong> mid-August, Algosaibi asked for my opinion about the <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>n proposal for a political<br />

solution to the crisis in the Middle East. The Arabs were now ready for a peaceful solution. We<br />

also discussed the Finnish Vesi-Pekka company’s construction projects for the <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>n<br />

coastguard and the giving of the Feifan project to Imatran Voima. The Finns were not the<br />

cheapest provider, but they were supposed to do a good job. We agreed on the fact that Neste<br />

Oy would again send a delegation to negotiate a joint venture in the petrochemical downstream<br />

field. To the construction company YIT a new project was now available. Algosaibi promised to<br />

come after his summer holiday to eat reindeer meat.<br />

<strong>In</strong> February I travelled in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> and the UAE with two delegations. Pentti Uusivirta from<br />

the Bank of Finland and Annikki Saarela with Veikko Kantola from the Ministry of Finance<br />

negotiated loans. Wärtsilä Oy’s Managing Director Tor Stolpe was selling ships. Wärtsilä was also<br />

interested in the LNG vessels for the carriage of liquefied gas for the United Arab Emirates, which<br />

they, in due course, also bought.<br />

<strong>In</strong> May 1982 we discussed in Riyadh the political situation in the Middle East. Algosaibi was then<br />

and, until his death in 2010, the current King's foreign policy advisor. According to Algosaibi, there<br />

were no major events to be expected in four months. The <strong>Saudi</strong>s considered Israel to be very<br />

nervous. The situation between Iraq and Syria was escalating all the time. Then the Iran-Iraq war<br />

was in progress, and in the case of Libya, the situation was difficult. No Arab Summit was<br />

expected nor <strong>Saudi</strong> activity to push their Fahed peace plan. Egypt didn't want to do anything in<br />

the current situation.<br />

Our discussion moved to the industrial projects in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>. Algosaibi asked if the Finns were<br />

more interested in PVC or MTBE. The Minister also asked whether we had an interest to get


61<br />

involved if the third partner of the joint venture would come from the Far East. Algosaibi<br />

recommended this, because it would open the Far East markets. He was going to steer in this<br />

direction on the Board of SABIC and to support the entry of Neste Oy as a partner.<br />

The Nordic <strong>In</strong>vestment Bank was, at around the same time, active in preparing an Arab-Nordic<br />

seminar in Finland. I had introduced the NIB management to the <strong>Saudi</strong>s and was working with<br />

my sleeves rolled up to get <strong>Saudi</strong> participants to the seminar in June in Helsinki.<br />

Algosaibi visited, with his spouse, Finland in September. The main host was Nokia’s CEO Kari<br />

Kairamo. At his request, I went in advance to check all places and flew in a helicopter along the<br />

route which Algosaibi would be flying.<br />

During the visit, the Minister and I developed and joked about our not so serious Finnish - <strong>Saudi</strong><br />

<strong>Arabia</strong>n collaborative project. More seriously we had developed a number of projects, some of<br />

which became effective. We had lunch on the premises of Neste Oy in Sandviken, when Ghazi<br />

suddenly told the hosts that he had developed a new collaborative project with me. He refused<br />

to tell the content, but was referring to me but I returned the ball to him. From among the hosts<br />

the Minister for Trade and <strong>In</strong>dustry, Seppo Lindblom , asked me with a ministerial voice to inform<br />

about the project.


62<br />

I told them with a serious face of our project, which was the interbreeding of a camel and a<br />

moose. This would give us the camoose, which would cope as well as with hot desert sand the<br />

snow in the North. It could be used for transport, in which case the small packages could hang<br />

on the horns etc. I explained the use we had planned. The room became completely silent. The<br />

Minister looked at me, surprised, and I was expecting once again at least to be fired from my<br />

governmental function. The Chairman of Neste Oy’s Supervisory Council was Ulf Sundqvist. He<br />

started laughing and others joined. The lunch had been very stiff which made the <strong>Saudi</strong> Minister<br />

to take up the project. Now the lunch became a success in every way. I stayed on in my function.<br />

The whole visit was a success.<br />

The Arms Dealer Adnan Khashoggi<br />

Before we moved to <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>, many expressed to me their views on Adnan Khashoggi. His<br />

Finnish visit had been very impressive and he was internationally known as an arms and aircraft<br />

dealer in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>. The visit to Finland was arranged on Martti Huhanantti’s initiative. Mr<br />

Raade, the CEO of Neste Oy, thought it was over dimensioned. My predecessor was seen to have<br />

stumbled in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> in a too complicated effort to analyze the exercise of power in the<br />

country. After Khashoggi’s visit to Finland, the Ambassador had tried to find out what kind of man<br />

he was. He asked Mahmoud Malhas, who was the secretary and “arranger” of Crown Prince<br />

Fahed bin Abdul Aziz, his opinion of Khashoggi, without knowing about their close friendship. The<br />

<strong>Saudi</strong>s were offended when they were studied this way.<br />

Huhanantti had given to Minister Olavi J. Mattila a very positive<br />

image about the importance of Khashoggi, which Mattila had<br />

carried forward to the President of the Republic.<br />

Undersecretary of State Arvo Rytkönen was interested in the<br />

Khashoggi contact, which went via the <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>n<br />

Ambassador in Stockholm. The official relations with Finland<br />

were kept by the <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>n Ambassador in Bonn Ibrahim.<br />

When Rytkönen was the Minister of trade and industry, he had<br />

visited <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> in 1975.<br />

The <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>n Ambassador in Stockholm had visited Finland. Hietarinta had went with him<br />

to the President’s residence Tamminiemi, where the Ambassador gave to the President of the<br />

Republic letters from the King and the Crown Prince. Raade had tried to prevent the visit. I met<br />

Huhanantti and spouse at the Hietarintas. He said that it was important to the <strong>Saudi</strong>s that a<br />

person was "sincere", meaning true and open. The <strong>Saudi</strong>s are in close contact with each other. It<br />

was not possible to tell one <strong>Saudi</strong> something negative about another. King Feisal had had a<br />

negative attitude to Finland. He had visited Finland during the Olympic Games in 1952 and<br />

nobody had been paying attention to him. That Finland's first Ambassador to <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> was<br />

moving from the quite unimportant country Lebanon to Jeddah, was not welcome to the <strong>Saudi</strong>s.<br />

Khashoggi came to Finland with the right to offer oil and give a $1 billion loan. He was surprised


63<br />

to find that the Finns were not interested to negotiate these offers. He had agreed with Crown<br />

Prince Fahed about his visit to Finland.<br />

Finnish companies traded a lot with <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> in the years following the Khashoggi visit.<br />

Khashoggi’s company Triad <strong>In</strong>ternational Marketing was not an important intermediate, as far as<br />

I know. Thanks to his contacts with Cronwn Prince Fahed and many others, Khashoggi opened<br />

trade channels to aircraft and arms industries, and many other big project hunters. The company<br />

did not actually buy or sell. It gave advice on to whom to turn for a certain project and received<br />

naturally compensation for its advice. Part of the compensation was redirected to the<br />

representative of the person with whom the project was discussed. Such trade was unknown to<br />

most Finnish companies. Why had Khashoggi been in Finland? He had been given a picture of a<br />

untouched country producing important raw materials and semi-finished products, where to find<br />

a lot of interesting production for international deals. This was not the case. Both hosts and<br />

guests in Finland had a wrong picture of the opportunities offered by the other. Arms trade was<br />

not discussed in Finland I believe.<br />

I went, in due course, to explore Khashoggi’s Triad <strong>In</strong>ternational Marketing SA Company in<br />

Riyadh. The company's actual place of residence was in Vaduz in Liechtenstein. The company<br />

operated in Riyadh in an old office building, from where it would be moving to new premises,<br />

which is currently one of the Khashoggi brothers was building. I met the Executive Director Karl<br />

Petersen, as well as the second man's Todd D. Shelton. The company's office space was modern<br />

and there was even in the late evening a very busy traffic. <strong>In</strong> the context of the visit Khashoggi’s<br />

company had negotiated with approximately 30 Finnish companies. I got to see the summary of<br />

the negotiations. I remember the companies Neste, Kemira, Kone, Valmet, Rauma Repola,<br />

Jaakko Pöyry, Suomen Autoteollisuus, Finnlines and a consortium of Finnsport and Huber. About<br />

each company one page was written in the summary or, in some cases, only a few lines. With<br />

many companies no base for cooperation had been found, but in a few cases cooperation had<br />

been agreed upon.<br />

I asked how the projects with the Finns were proceeding. The only open projects they<br />

remembered were the shipping cooperation with Finnlines, where the company Valmet would<br />

supply the ships, as well as the Finnsport coaching project. The shipping company was estimated<br />

to prove to be profitable only after the entry into force of the law in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>, which would<br />

oblige to use only the <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>n flag for transports. Sea captain Salminen had been<br />

undertaking an assessment of the situation. I asked how Finnsport’s opportunities appeared. I<br />

was told that they were expecting the next budget. They did not confirm that we would have<br />

opportunities in the next budget.<br />

According to the company, the Finns had been discussing and discussing again with them but<br />

they had not earned anything and they were fed up with the Finns.<br />

The Finns had been offered a project to build and lease ships to the <strong>Saudi</strong> oil company ARAMCO.<br />

The Finns had, however, informed that they first wanted to get the shipping company finalized.<br />

Secondly, a new project was presented for a joint-venture production of heat exchangers in <strong>Saudi</strong><br />

<strong>Arabia</strong>. Finnish companies were requested to invest in this project. <strong>In</strong> this context, they told


64<br />

pretty boasting that they had arranged for the German construction company Holzmann the big<br />

Tabuk port project, and said that Finns too would be given similar opportunities.<br />

It was clear that the company actually had contacts. I attended a dinner at Todd Shelton’s<br />

beautiful home. Among the other guests were the Norwegian air force’s former deputy<br />

commander Major General Hans Wergeland and his wife. There was also the former U.S.<br />

Ambassador to Pakistan, recently retired, who had served previously in the Philippines, Thailand,<br />

and in several other countries. The other guests were quite interesting local top businessmen.<br />

Dinners were part of Triad’s contact activity, and, of course, were often of significant use.<br />

Acquiring information about new projects and preliminary indication to companies what<br />

project’s were possible was a main activity of Triad. They said directly that the price was not<br />

always the deciding factor. Various personal preferences and other similar reasons could steer a<br />

project to a higher priced bidder. For the knowledge of whom to turn to Triad wanted to get a<br />

reward from Finnish companies. Understandably, they hunted for the biggest projects, which<br />

rarely interested the Finns.<br />

On the role of women in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong><br />

The role of women in the country, following closely its cultural traditions, naturally differed quite<br />

a lot from the gender equality found in Finland. A woman could not, for example, buy a plane<br />

ticket abroad<br />

without the<br />

permission of her<br />

husband or<br />

another head of<br />

the family. Of<br />

course, she had no<br />

right to travel<br />

without<br />

permission.<br />

However, there<br />

was already some<br />

change. Women<br />

could work as<br />

doctors and<br />

teachers in the<br />

universities that<br />

were treating and<br />

teaching other<br />

women.


65<br />

The blackest veils were used by the Royal family's female members, of which there were<br />

thousands. When one of these women, wrapped in a black robe and veil, passed by, most often<br />

a strong perfume scent stayed in the air intoxicating the environment. When an aircraft left from<br />

Jeddah to Europe, the plane was first filled with women wrapped in black veils. After a while the<br />

veils were removed and dark eyed beauties dressed in haut couture from Paris, Milan or New<br />

York fashion rooms were sitting on the plane. The outfits were really impressive. The jewelry<br />

should not be forgotten. It was also really impressive.<br />

The modern women would have been happy to drive a car. Now, a woman was already in<br />

difficulties if she sat in a car that was driven by someone other than her father, husband, or an<br />

employed driver. I got to hear a plethora of arguments as to why a woman was not allowed to<br />

drive. One Minister explained to me quite a special reason. He said seriously that a woman could<br />

be involved in a car accident while driving a car. That created the danger of being raped by the<br />

police or some other man.<br />

There were efforts to arrange modern opportunities for women. The Women's Bank was one of<br />

them. Women could do business in the Bank. The staff was only women. Men had no entrance<br />

to the Bank. There is no reason to smile. After all, we have a sauna for women. IT was not possible<br />

for a woman to do business within a normal bank. There were queues in banks. Most of the men<br />

in the queues were both <strong>Saudi</strong> men harassing and migrant workers, who lived in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong><br />

without female contacts. Due to their needs they pinched and grabbed the women.<br />

Friendship with <strong>Saudi</strong> families resulted in frequent invitations. One had to learn the local customs<br />

and habits. Dinner invitations annotated usually as time of arrival either 8.00 p.m. or 9.00 p.m.<br />

The Guests were expected not to arrive before 10 p.m, or even better not before 11 p.m. After<br />

the arrival the alternate serving of coffee and tea began. The guest would already be a little bored<br />

of coffee and tea when, at last, about one or two a.m. in the morning, or should I say night, the<br />

dinner finally began. There was always a lot of food. It was served on buffet tables. These were<br />

different from the Finnish buffets as the Arabs often did not circle the table to choose among a<br />

variety of delicacies, but stopped by the table at one serving platter standing there and started<br />

eating there, so others could not come close, before they had finished. Fortunately, there were<br />

always enough serving plates on the long buffet tables.<br />

Local weddings were not arranged so that the male and female guests would be together. The<br />

men were at the wedding neglected or even ignored. The wedding was primarily a celebration of<br />

women. The groom, was, though, at some point of the Feast brought out to greet female guests.<br />

Not that it was pretty harmless. My wife had to some wedding brought along our daughter<br />

Annika, who was visiting us during her holiday. She was tall and blond. Many considered her<br />

beautiful. <strong>In</strong> the USA people thought she was the blonde female singer from the Abba group. The<br />

groom greeted also our daughter and forgot to free her hand after greeting. A confusing situation<br />

arose, but intervening relatives resolved it.<br />

Wedding parties were frequent. Great jealousy was created when my wife received an invitation<br />

to the Petroleum Minister Yamani’s daughter’s Maha wedding. We already were good family<br />

friends. The wives of ambassadors could not understand that only one of them was invited. The


66<br />

so-called protocol in thinking sometimes overrules common sense. To official celebrations all the<br />

representatives of the foreign powers, only the oldest of the diplomatic corps, or no one are<br />

invited. This does, of course, not apply to a private wedding.<br />

The King's brother, Prince Abdullah, who since then has been <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>'s ruler and now<br />

deceased, invited all the heads of missions’ wives to the wedding of his son in Riyadh and all flew<br />

there, since a common transport was arranged. As mentioned no woman could travel alone. The<br />

festive wedding in evening dresses continued in the local way until the next morning. Prince<br />

Abdullah came up with the proposal one day later. The embassy ladies preferred to return to<br />

Jeddah. The reason given was to Abdullah was that they had only one evening dress in accordance<br />

with the invitation for one evening. Prince Abdullah did not consider this as any kind of a problem.<br />

Large fashion houses, such as Dior and Yves St. Laurent were represented in Riyadh and could<br />

immediately bring their collections to the hotel for befitting. The ladies would be able to choose<br />

outfits that appealed to them. One of the ladies laughed and said they should have mentioned<br />

that they also had jewelry for only one evening. The prince’s offer was not accepted and the<br />

ladies returned to Jeddah.<br />

Some fashion houses arranged the first joint fashion show in Jeddah. My wife went there as there<br />

also went the spouses of other ambassadors and other local spouses. When the show ended our<br />

driver Muhammad was meeting the ladies and asked them to leave through the back door, where<br />

he had directed all the other drivers and cars. <strong>In</strong> front of the House were representatives of the<br />

religious police, who were about to arrest all women without veils.<br />

European wives did not use veils nor black robes. All used permanently long skirts and longsleeved<br />

outfits. The European women considered it fun to look at the cloak room when shows<br />

began. On all of the hooks identical black robes of the <strong>Saudi</strong> ladies were hanging.<br />

The widow of the late king Feisal, Princess Johara, lived in Jeddah and often organized receptions<br />

for women. She was a kind person who desired company, but names in another language<br />

produced a bit of a problem for her. During all the years of our stay she was using the name<br />

"Madame Finlandia” for my wife.<br />

My Lebanese colleague’s spouse was a close friend of my wife. While she was visiting Beirut a<br />

Lebanese Christian Minister came to Jeddah with his daughter. My colleague asked my wife to<br />

be hostess at a dinner for the Minister so that the Minister's daughter could be invited to<br />

participate. I was traveling somewhere. At the end of the dinner there was a lively discussion on<br />

different issues. One of the <strong>Saudi</strong>s asked my wife whether a Christian woman accepted the local<br />

custom, which allows a man to have four wives. My wife's response was that she would prefer<br />

the custom that a woman would have four men, since these are often on business trips away<br />

from home, a comment that was remembered by all the <strong>Saudi</strong> men at the dinner.<br />

Our daughter Annika studied in the United States and married an American school friend, whom<br />

she had learnt to know in the <strong>In</strong>ternational School in Germany. After the American civil ceremony<br />

we decided to organize a church ceremony in our garden in Jeddah. It was not easy, because<br />

Christian churches, and priests were not allowed in the country. Among the Americans we found<br />

a priest, who was in the country in another position. He wed our daughter on a beautiful day, of


67<br />

which there was no shortage of. There was no lack in Jeddah of warmth. On the wedding day the<br />

29. December the temperature at midnight was 29 ° C. I keep quiet of what it was at noon.<br />

At dinner there were many guests. The groom, whose name was Jimmy, did not, understandably,<br />

know almost anybody, but sought, in the direct American way, to discuss with the guests. One of<br />

the interlocutors happened to be in the country's secret police, a German educator and<br />

counselor. I knew of his mission, but usually did people nor most of our guests not know. Jimmy<br />

was friendly and asked what the speech partner did. He answered carefully, "I'm in business".<br />

Jimmy, of course, continued, asking, "What type of business". I thought it best to steer the<br />

conversation to other topics.<br />

I had to deal with this guest’s profession also in another way. The country did rarely grant visas<br />

to journalists. The secret police man asked once when he was visiting in my office if he could call<br />

my German colleague. He called and asked my colleague if he remembered that he had helped<br />

two German journalists to get visas to the country, disguising themselves as Mercedesmechanics.<br />

My colleague remembered. My guest said that during his trip back to Germany, one<br />

of them had been accidentally shot at Beirut's airport. He ended the call, saying in conclusion,<br />

that journalists should not enter the country in the disguise of another profession. I learned<br />

lessons from this call, too.<br />

I was in Riyadh negotiating project agreements, during the days before the state visit of the<br />

Swedish King, living in the new <strong>In</strong>tercontinental Hotel, the best at that time. My wife had received<br />

an invitation to the occasions of the King’s visit. She arrived accompanied by my Norwegian<br />

colleague, whose wife was in Norway. The two arrived at the hotel and my wife asked for my<br />

room key. That was not possible at all. She was welcome to get a key to the room of the<br />

Ambassador of Norway, where he had already rushed, but understandably not to the<br />

Ambassador of Finland’s room, as she had not arrived with him. Fortunately, the hotel had just<br />

received a Finnish General Manager, Olof Jurva, who worked with good results in Riyadh several<br />

years, taking care of of the hotel really nicely. He was able to resolve even this dilemma, and my<br />

wife got into our room.<br />

The desert, excursions and tours<br />

Unique driving habits and high heat were not barriers to car trips to the surroundings of Jeddah,<br />

to the Red Sea or the desert. I drove even longer trips. Two times I drove across the <strong>Arabia</strong>n<br />

Peninsula and back from the Red Sea. Once to the Hormuz Strait and once to Doha, the capital<br />

of Qatar. <strong>In</strong>teresting 3500 km journeys. The sand was not in short supply. On the first trip was a<br />

lack of roads and of places to pump gasoline. Even with the best will one could not call them<br />

service stations. On the second trip there were both more and better roads and more service<br />

stations. Partly they were magnificent. Because the time between the trips was four years, one


68<br />

could admire the speed of development. When I, for the first time, headed my car from Jeddah<br />

to the South, I assumed, based on hearsay, that I would find a road. The road turned out to be<br />

hundreds of miles of tracks in the desert. They often divided. A compass did not work in the car<br />

very well. Here and there was drift sand or salt-desert mud, where a car was stuck like on glued<br />

fly paper. Fortunately, not our car. I had slowly learned to assess where in the desert one could<br />

drive. The temperature outside was in the shadow more than 40 °C. There was no shade except<br />

inside the car. The interior temperature remained tolerable as long as the engine ran the air<br />

conditioner. The excursions were not harmless. Expatriates died from time to time. <strong>In</strong> those<br />

circumstances it was necessary to drink 16 gallons of water a day. <strong>In</strong> the desert water was<br />

precious and you were supposed the give water to those in need. Once we helped a Bedouin in<br />

need of water.<br />

The Finnish construction company YIT operated within different parts of <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>. The waste<br />

water treatment plant project in the Holy City of Medina was managed by Rauno Puskala. On his<br />

invitation I drove with my wife to his family’s home outside of Medina. Their children circled in<br />

our neighborhood and were very tense. They were waiting for something. Tired of waiting they<br />

finally asked: "When will the Ambassador come?” They were waiting for something special. I was<br />

very usual. I did not forget the issue.<br />

Mecca was near Jeddah. After Mecca came the city of Taif in the mountains. Taif was the<br />

summertime residence city of <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>. A good mountain road ran from Jeddah via Mecca to<br />

Taif. It was of course, not allowed for Christians or other non-Muslims. We used a mountain road


69<br />

bypassing Mecca. First there was no road. There was only the construction site for a future road.<br />

Once as we returned from the capital city Riyadh<br />

we reached the road construction site in the middle<br />

of the night. It was dangerous to continue in the<br />

dark, but we wanted to drive home. Our car lights<br />

hit suddenly sign "End of the Road" in English. As a<br />

resident of the area who had already experienced<br />

many odd things I got out of the car to check what<br />

the shield meant. It meant what it said. About 20<br />

meters from the sign the road came to an end. The<br />

drop down was about 200 meters. Of course there<br />

was no banister or rail. There was the sign. I decided<br />

to drive in another direction, but I did not know<br />

where. After a while we met a second car. It was a<br />

taxi coming from Jeddah and asked us where Taif<br />

was. I told from where we came and continued in<br />

the direction from where the taxi came. Slowly we<br />

came down from the mountain. Gradually a new<br />

fine highway between Jeddah and Taif became<br />

ready and Christians were allowed to use it.<br />

The camel is the Desert ship and in the desert it’s a<br />

fantastic animal. It can travel long distances without drink and without food. The camel herds<br />

were interesting to monitor. They moved in a very dignified way, stepping softly. They create a<br />

sound like the sound of a gargling human.<br />

The camel herds could be dangerous. A collision between a car and a camel can well be compared<br />

with a collision between a car and an elk (moose). Once, when we were on our way back after<br />

midnight from the Petroleum Minister’s home in Taif to Jeddah a car came on the otherwise<br />

empty road against us. I dipped my headlights. When I put the headlights back on I found myself<br />

driving at high speed into a<br />

camel herd crossing the<br />

road. I braked and let the<br />

car slide sidewise on the<br />

everywhere-present-sand,<br />

partly covered asphalt road.<br />

The camels were, however,<br />

too close. I discovered a<br />

narrow gap in the heard<br />

and steered into it. I was<br />

waiting for the impact. But<br />

nothing happened. When<br />

my hands stopped<br />

trembling I continued my


70<br />

driving. I felt a strong vibration. Braking on the sand had affected the tires so that they felt square,<br />

almost like in cartoons. We vibrated home. I had been driving very fast and the temperature had<br />

been high. I bought new round tires to drive normally again.<br />

Together with Minister Yamani we drove to meet Bedouin tribes that he was familiar with. My<br />

wife had to be with the women. I got to drink alternately coffee and tea, and to watch the<br />

Bedouins perform dances until a Bedouin feast was offered. At the insistence of the Petroleum<br />

Minister, also my wife was brought to the meal and to follow the dancing. This derogation from<br />

the tradition made the Bedouin Chief very angry. Oil money, however, has a deterrent effect on<br />

the waves. The dance did not totally remind us of dance in Finland as all dancers were men who<br />

danced to Arab rhythms in a long row of waving their legs and swords. I was invited to the<br />

dancing, and waved also both. Fortunately, my sharp sword did not hit anyone.<br />

Dining on the floor and eating with ones hands, but only with the right hand as the left serves<br />

other purposes, I enjoyed, as the food was good. The main course was always a whole sheep.<br />

When one of the hosts or guests had eaten, he immediately rose from the table, or, to reiterate,<br />

from the floor, while leaving his place. After all the men had eaten came the time for women and<br />

children to come to the same "table" to eat. They were followed by the servants. The older <strong>Saudi</strong>s<br />

frequently called the servants slaves. Slavery was not prohibited in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> until 1962. <strong>In</strong><br />

Oman and Yemen, the ban came into force even later in the year 1970. Slaves, however, had<br />

been treated well, so they stayed as servants.<br />

The Bedouin way of drinking coffee is usual in the Arab world. <strong>In</strong> meetings, when waiting for<br />

hours in anticipation of a meal, at official ceremonies when waiting for the King was coffee and<br />

tea offered, as per<br />

usual.<br />

The coffee, which<br />

included a large<br />

amount of<br />

cardamom, is<br />

offered as a<br />

greenish<br />

pleasantly<br />

scented brew in a<br />

small eggcup sized<br />

cup. The cup is<br />

taken with your<br />

right hand and<br />

held in it. When<br />

the cup is empty,<br />

the host or<br />

servant fills it up. The guest continues to drink and the waiter to serve until the guest understands<br />

to wave his cup. Now serving ends. Otherwise, it's hardly ending and more coffee is brought.


71<br />

Arabic coffee is good even for a sensitive stomach. The coffee jugs are beautiful with their long<br />

round beaks.<br />

Years later, I was in Ethiopia. Using cross-country cars we drove along with Finnish development<br />

aid financed power lines and afforestation as well as plantations built out in the openings created<br />

by cutting wood. Our car was carrying us through a number of small villages to a province, high<br />

in the Highlands to the region of Kaffa, from where coffee originated and where it is still grown.<br />

Supposedly the monks started in the Middle East the use of coffee after observing how the sheep<br />

became more active after eating the coffee bush fruits. The monks also began to eat them. <strong>In</strong><br />

medical writings coffee is already mentioned in the year 900 AD. At first the coffee beans were<br />

eaten or were added to wine. As a drink made from roasted coffee beans coffee became known<br />

in the beginning of the 1300.<br />

From Ethiopia coffee was<br />

exported across the entire Middle<br />

East region. Mocha, a port city in<br />

Yemen, has given its name to the<br />

Mocha-coffee, considered the<br />

best coffee in Finland. Coffee<br />

spread from Ethiopia through<br />

Yemen to the rest of the Middle<br />

East, and from there to Europe.<br />

Dutch merchants spread the<br />

cultivation to the West-<strong>In</strong>dian<br />

Islands. <strong>In</strong> Central and South<br />

America, growing began in the<br />

early 1700’s.<br />

The story is so told that Captain Gabriel Mathieu de Clieu carried a coffee plant to the island of<br />

Martinique in the West <strong>In</strong>dian archipelago. From this plant, it is spoken of, came the majority of<br />

the coffee bushes in South America and the neighboring islands.<br />

Brazil became in the mid-1800’s the leading coffee producing country. Africa, where coffee<br />

originally came from, developed only after the Second World War into a major coffee exporter.<br />

I have visited coffee plantations in Costa Rica as well as Colombia. Coffee bushes are growing at<br />

a high altitude in a high humidity environment, where humidity condensates from clouds and<br />

forms drops dripping from leaves and flowers<br />

First the water-cooked, chopped and roasted coffee beans were drunk together with the coffee<br />

grounds. Spices were added to the drink. <strong>Arabia</strong>n coffee still has lot of spices, especially<br />

cardamom. Turkish coffee has the coffee grounds in the cup. Fortunately, all is not coming into<br />

the mouth.


72<br />

Turkish coffee reminds me of a coffee-oriented political problem. We were driving through<br />

Yugoslavia, where we, whenever we stopped to rest, ordered a Turkish coffee. The journey<br />

continued to Greece. I warned my wife many times not to talk about Turkish coffee in Greece.<br />

Turkey was not and is still not a popular country in Greece, so Turkish-brewed coffee is there<br />

called Greek coffee. When we had crossed the border, I ordered, on our first break, of course,<br />

Turkish coffee. My wife’s facial expression was saying a lot, but that happened frequently. My<br />

order did not lead to anything. My wife fixed the problem by ordering Greek coffee, which we<br />

were immediately served.<br />

A coffee drinker should know the varieties Robusta and Arabica. By speaking of them, one gives<br />

the impression of a coffee connoisseur and is given the same admiration wine connoisseurs enjoy<br />

when they apply their wine vocabulary.<br />

Coffee usually grows in the Highlands in a humid climate. Among the glossy green leaves of the<br />

coffee bush appear beautiful white flowers. The flowers wilt quickly and are replaced by coffee<br />

cherries or coffee berries. There are two beans in each of the flesh-covered cherries. The green<br />

cherries ripen to red. The ripening time is between six to fourteen months. The flesh is washed<br />

away from the beans by letting them first ferment. The flesh can also be removed mechanically<br />

from dried coffee cherries.<br />

The removed yet still green coffee beans are ready for the market and will retain the taste for a<br />

long time. Not until roasting the coffee aroma comes out. Because the roasted coffee easily loses<br />

its aroma it has nowadays become usual to grind roasted coffee and compress it hermetically.<br />

The Desert is beautiful


73<br />

The desert is beautiful. <strong>In</strong> particular, in the evening or in the morning, when the Sun is low. The<br />

night sky with bright stars in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> was an impressive sight as well as the desert by<br />

moonlight. The desert is by no means dead. Here and there are found oases, which are like those<br />

remembered from the adventure movies. Surrounded by Palm trees and other greenery one can<br />

find a clear well, the source of a rivulet, which leaves there and only a short time later dive into<br />

the desert sand. Deep below the desert there are large water reservoirs, which now are used,<br />

which is not only a good thing. There can be small fishes in the rivulets. From where did they<br />

come? There are bushes in the desert. Often thorny, so that they would be left in peace. Around<br />

them, butterflies and other insects are flying. Sometimes you may face a locust swarm taking off.<br />

We know the locust plagues and immense damage to crops in Egypt.<br />

On weekends, we circulated in the desert if there was free time from my work. The weekend as<br />

such, it was difficult to define. We in Finland have our weekend on Saturday and Sunday. <strong>In</strong> <strong>Saudi</strong><br />

<strong>Arabia</strong>, the weekend accounted for Thursday and Friday. The Embassy was closed Thursday and<br />

Friday, as the <strong>Saudi</strong>s’ dealings with us increased on Saturdays and Sundays. Of course attempts<br />

were made to reach us from Finland on Thursdays and Fridays, so there was rarely time for desert<br />

trips. Ostriches and antelopes had been hunted to extinction via being used for nightly hunting<br />

and also daily hunting from off-road cars. There were camel herds in the desert and large<br />

numbers of vultures, which fed on and quickly cleaned carrion, which was always available. <strong>In</strong><br />

the desert one could find interesting things. There were <strong>Saudi</strong> diamonds, sand roses and water<br />

melons.


74<br />

<strong>Saudi</strong> diamonds could be found in dried up river beds. They were stones, who were translucent<br />

when the Sun was settling down. By<br />

grinding the raw stones they were<br />

transformed into diamond-like<br />

jewelry stones. I have not asked<br />

experts for what they actually are.<br />

It is alleged that they are citrines. To<br />

be diamonds they are not<br />

sufficiently hard, but it is fun to<br />

imagine them to be diamonds. I<br />

have always, as my hobby, when<br />

asked, mentioned diamond<br />

collection.<br />

When heavy sand dunes move<br />

slowly from one place to another, they will also move to places where the soil is wet after a rain.<br />

Over the years, rose flower-like sand roses crystallize under the sand dunes. One can dig up the<br />

sand rose, when the dune has continued on its journey. We went sometimes digging and gave<br />

sand roses to our friends as a gift.<br />

Visits to the desert in the evening were not harmless. As I drove I in the desert with a borrowed<br />

American limousine the tire exploded. I opened the boot and I picked up the spare tire. It had<br />

already exploded and was empty. Fortunately, I was so close to a larger road that I was able to<br />

return to the road on foot. I got by hitch-hiking a ride in across-country car driven by a Bedouin.<br />

He was overtaking uphill in the dark with the principle of "<strong>In</strong>sha Allah". Because my driving and<br />

method of overtaking is very different I left the car with a white face. Fortunately it was dark, so<br />

nobody could witness my paleness.<br />

*<br />

During our years in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> the projects began to be completed. Hotels were built, each one<br />

more luxurious than the earlier. Roads and City quarters were built. The air traffic and the<br />

airplane fleet improved. The planes were usually flown by American pilots. The requirements to<br />

place <strong>Saudi</strong>s on all tasks grew stronger. The pilots should also be purely <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>n. Foreigners<br />

were good enough as stewardesses, flight attendants and stewards. The purser, their boss, was<br />

often a <strong>Saudi</strong>.<br />

I boarded in Riyadh a recently acquired Jumbo or Boeing 747 to fly to Jeddah. I used to fly several<br />

times a week, this about one thousand kilometers in distance, because most of the ministries<br />

were in Riyadh. The Foreign Ministry was in Jeddah. There was an announcement to the<br />

passengers that the flight crew was completely <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>n. I appreciated the Arabs, but I not<br />

so much in an aircraft cockpit, especially in a new plane.<br />

The machine rolled to the runway and began its take-off acceleration. Then it braked. There was<br />

an announcement of a technical problem. The plane returned in the direction of the terminal<br />

building, but turned back to the runway and accelerated again. Now it even took off. The


75<br />

passengers could hear an ever-increasing level of noise. The tumult rose. Even though I had many<br />

years ago been able to rid myself of my fear of flying, this situation was able to reawaken it<br />

somewhat. It did not really make anything easier that the purser dug out a prayer mat and began<br />

to pray on the aisle. The reason for the noise became clear when the plane’s landing gear finally<br />

was pulled up much later than usual. Maybe there was a technical problem. We landed<br />

successfully at the destination.<br />

I always tried to live in the country in the manner of the country’s culture, but on odd occasion I<br />

strayed. My hobby was<br />

photography and I wanted local<br />

images. Photography was of<br />

course not forbidden. . It was<br />

prohibited to take pictures of<br />

people without prior permission<br />

or a building without the owner's<br />

prior permission. It was<br />

forbidden to take pictures of<br />

Public buildings. Airports and<br />

passenger planes were<br />

considered as military targets, so<br />

taking pictures was considered<br />

espionage. Photography,<br />

however, was allowed as I<br />

already mentioned. I decided to<br />

take a picture of one of the Jeddah souks (markets). I was then still relatively new entrant in the<br />

country. I was immediately surrounded by a crowd of slim, strong Arabs, who grabbed me with<br />

plier like fingers, and began to drag me towards a dark corridor. Fortunately a qualified police<br />

came and freed me from who knows what. I do not think that the crowd was going to show me<br />

a better picture taking position.


76<br />

I was later careful. The next time I<br />

had trouble from my interest in<br />

photography was when I tried to take<br />

a picture of Kuwait City’s symbol, the<br />

beautiful water tower. The photo<br />

included a patrol car armed with a<br />

machine gun. From there they<br />

shouted to me and asked me to come<br />

closer. However, I was not worried. I<br />

knew that the authorities would let<br />

me go, as long as I would dig out of<br />

my pocket my diplomatic card. I had<br />

forgotten that I was wearing just a<br />

shirt and pants and had no papers.<br />

They were in my hotel room. The<br />

soldiers dragged me to a higher<br />

ranking colleague, until there was<br />

one so high ranking that he believed<br />

the explanation I gave in poor Arabic<br />

language and let me walk away.<br />

*<br />

Petrodollars were, in the seventies and eighties, used to import a lot of German, British and<br />

American limousine vehicles to <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>. About these luxury vehicles, one could tell you a<br />

lot. Our youngest son, Rolf, was serving an apprenticeship in the Mercedes import repair shop<br />

and had, due to his language skills, the ability to help in the sales department during vacation<br />

time. To him came a <strong>Saudi</strong>, who claimed that the Mercedes Benz 350 S is not a good car. On the<br />

question of why this <strong>Saudi</strong> should consider it a not so good car, he said that he had driven his car<br />

against a lantern post and that it no longer worked after the accident. The matter was easily<br />

resolved. Two Mercedes 500 SE vehicles were sold to him. These Mercedes Benz vehicles were<br />

more expensive and, therefore, better cars. As a precaution, he bought two, so that in the event<br />

that he might again hit a lantern pole, there would at least be a backup car.<br />

There were a lot of these Rolls, Mercedes, Cadillacs and Buicks in use. Once my wife <strong>In</strong>ger and I<br />

were in the Asir Mountains, in the southern part of the country taking part in a ceremony, which<br />

was held in a specially built tent, in a small valley. When the ceremony came to an end, it started


77<br />

to rain. The access route turned out to be a dried river bed. <strong>In</strong> the rain it immediately became<br />

slimy and slippery. The only way to get out of the valley, however, was to drive as quickly as<br />

possible, so that the wheels would not slip, but then one was forced to do a sharp turn to avoid<br />

a big boulder in front. The first car drew straight into the stone. This gave rise to a most<br />

interesting new sport. All the <strong>Saudi</strong>s took their turn to speed up from the valley and turn in front<br />

of the boulder avoiding a crash. A sizable part of the cars were wrecked, made unusable.<br />

Everyone shared in this really sincere fun. I had fortunately not my car with me, so we walked<br />

away to wait, so that we could continue in one of those vehicles that were still intact. I asked a<br />

little later whether it did not become somewhat costly to smash so many cars when there was<br />

really no need for it. The happy <strong>Saudi</strong>s, who walked on the muddy ground with their long shirts<br />

wrapped up to their waist, said that it was nothing worth giving much second thought to. These<br />

cars belonged to a local business man, Abdullah. Abdullah would buy new cars the following day,<br />

so no damage. I presume that car selling companies liked these types of customers. The intention<br />

was to take us to another event on a helicopter, but the helicopter never left because the pilot<br />

was too engaged in the limousine sport. Fortunately, we made our way with an intact car still on<br />

time to our next destination.<br />

<strong>In</strong> southern <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> it was raining more than in other regions. That is why it paid off to build<br />

there a reservoir and a dam. When it was almost complete, it started to rain and the basin began<br />

to fill up. The builders found they had left the as yet not installed shut-off lock parts of the dam<br />

above the lock, where they had come under the fast flowing water. There was no possibility to<br />

regulate the water flow due to the uninstalled lock parts now under water. The water crashed<br />

with full force on the turbine vents.<br />

Our youngest son Rolf was diving in the Red Sea and also worked as a diving instructor at this<br />

time. Now he was offered the opportunity to fly to the South of Najran to rescue those parts of<br />

the locks left in the basin. So he flew there in a plane, where he was in the company of Bedouins<br />

and their sheep. On arrival he that all the inhabitants carried a weapon. The tribes were restless.<br />

It was customary to shoot up into the air. Our son instead, dove into the water and slowly got<br />

lifting cables attached to the sunken lock parts so they could be towed up.<br />

*<br />

My wife and I drove from Helsinki in the summer of 1980 by car to Jeddah. First we crossed the<br />

Baltic Sea on a car ferry, then we drove through Germany, Switzerland, Italy, Yugoslavia and<br />

Greece to the Mediterranean Sea. We crossed the Mediterranean from Greek Patras via the<br />

Greek island of Crete to Alexandria in Egypt on a ferry and continued again driving via Cairo to<br />

Suez, from where an Egyptian car ferry was supposed to leave to Jeddah. The ferry was supposed<br />

to leave. No schedule was available and there was no ferry in Suez harbor. Close to the harbor,<br />

in the shadow of a wall, were people laying around, who were supposed to travel with the ferry<br />

to work in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>. My wife did not want to go through the ranks of these resting people,<br />

especially as the crowd consisted of only men. Finally we found, in the small city Suez, a physician,<br />

who at the same time was honorary consul for Norway, Sweden and Denmark. He was able to<br />

arrange a hotel room, which one with great difficulty could call a hotel room, where we went to<br />

wait for the ship, which luckily arrived he next day.


78<br />

The physician<br />

had seemed<br />

pleasant, so I<br />

recommended<br />

to my colleague<br />

in Cairo that he<br />

would be made<br />

also honorary<br />

consul for<br />

Finland in the<br />

sign of Nordic<br />

co-operation.<br />

This was done.<br />

A A few years<br />

later, the<br />

Finnish Consul<br />

in Suez and his<br />

family came to<br />

visit us in Jeddah. The initiative was his, and he did not announce the visit in advance. The family<br />

had decided to make a pilgrimage to Mecca. It is not really possible for a Christian to visit Mecca,<br />

so we have only been at the shut-off gate on the road leading out of the city. Now I had at least<br />

reached Mecca with my car, of which I was very proud of. After all, I as a Christian had a car,<br />

which had visited Mecca.<br />

On and in the Red Sea<br />

<strong>Saudi</strong> Arabs were very hospitable. The food was always good. Because it was pretty greasy, it was<br />

also nutritious and, as the military used to say, it was also sufficient. When someone was about<br />

to host an important guest, one would butcher two sheep, so that it would not appear that the<br />

meal was modest. <strong>In</strong> my view there was always at least ten times the amount of food than what<br />

was in fact required.<br />

We were invited to a small motor boat trip. As on the Red Sea in the vicinity of Jeddah were a<br />

number of motor boats, I assumed of the trip would be on a boat, which in Finland we called<br />

muscle boats, or otherwise with a relatively big, perhaps Italian motor boat. I was really wrong.<br />

This boat was more the magnitude of a passenger ferry. We were about ten on the trip. I<br />

estimated there should be food for around thirty. Somewhere, however, there had been an error,<br />

so food was catered for a much larger group of people. All the guests did eat properly. On the<br />

buffet tables one could not observe signs of anybody having eaten. Such are hospitable meals.<br />

<strong>In</strong> the old days, the <strong>Saudi</strong> Arabs would eat on the floor. Table cloths were spread on the carpets<br />

and on these was consumed the meal. I always tried to arrange these kinds of meals for the<br />

guests at the time, as they were impressive. Due to the Petrodollars, however, there were


79<br />

everywhere big hotels and great restaurants, where the meals were served on tables. The meals<br />

were buffet meals, but after the guests had taken food a couple of times, food was additionally<br />

served to the guests tables. When first all the usual Mediterranean appetizers had been eaten,<br />

came fish, after the fish one served chicken, and after the chicken arrived steaks and other beef.<br />

<strong>In</strong> between a variety of sausages was served. Only when all of this was eaten came the main<br />

course or the sheep. The <strong>Saudi</strong>s do not eat pork. I do not know where, in the course of these<br />

types of meal, pork would have been served, if it had been allowed.<br />

Modern times entered the cities, and were accompanied by fast food restaurants. The most<br />

common fast food was, according to the neon signs “ Broasted Chicken ". I am familiar with<br />

roasted chicken and broiled chicken. I still do not know what broasted chicken is, because I never<br />

tried it. This was not due to snobbishness. There were no Ambassadors’ dinners nor lunches in<br />

restaurants at the time. It was not always possible to eat at home in the residence. I was then<br />

eating local fast food. On a rotating skewer they fried sliced lamb, spiced with onions and salads<br />

and wrapped in circular warm Arab bread. The name was "shawarma". <strong>In</strong> Europe you can find<br />

something similar under the name "kebab".<br />

*<br />

As into the photos I took on land frequently would sneak in prohibited items, I began to<br />

photograph underwater life with an underwater camera. The likelihood that I would get into<br />

trouble photographing by<br />

accident a submarine was<br />

very small. The Red Sea<br />

coral reefs are a great<br />

target. I used a snorkel but<br />

not diving bottles, because<br />

my ears were not,<br />

according to my doctor,<br />

suitable for actual scuba<br />

diving. My ear drums had<br />

been damaged in the past.<br />

A lot of sharks were<br />

swimming around the<br />

reefs. I was swimming and<br />

the sharks were swimming.<br />

According to the experts, i.e. my son Rolf and his diver friends, they were not dangerous, except<br />

when irritated. How could I conclude when a shark was irritated? I had however, been swimming<br />

around them and among them observing them a number of times with a cold feeling in my<br />

stomach, but no problem had occurred. At the Rabigh reef, I swam out from the outer edge of<br />

the reef in order to take a good picture of a big reef shark, about two meters long, passing by.<br />

But the shark turned outward swimming away in the direction of the darkening, blue water,<br />

which annoyed me. Observing the shark I saw it turn and change direction. I also observed that I<br />

was the new direction. I did exactly what you should not do. I swam full speed to escape. On the<br />

reef, out of the water, I turned and met the shark’s expressionless eyes.


80<br />

I often faced sharks in the Red Sea. They were somehow exciting, because they included, at least<br />

imagined, danger. A shark swimming against me startled me every time, even if they swam<br />

passing by. My son Rolf dived and fed sharks with fishes he held hanging from his hand. We had<br />

thought he fed them with meat purchased for our dog. It turned out that he fed the meat to<br />

moray eels. Once he escorted me and my son-in-law Jimmy to have a look at barracudas. It so<br />

happened that we did not encounter a swarm of small barracudas as expected. We came across<br />

one really big barracuda, which was floating in the blue water outside the reef, where we also<br />

were. It resembled a submarine and opened its mouth, what my son had told was a warning. My<br />

son turned to show my son-in-law and me something interesting, but he did not see us. And he<br />

could not see us, as we had fled the scene as small fishes in Finland flee a Pike, and lay panting<br />

on the beach. We got a ticking off. Friends are not left behind. The scolding boy was absolutely<br />

right, but the barracuda was really impressive and had impressed us.<br />

There were not many roads in the <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>n deserts. Mostly there were tracks and wheel<br />

prints. On the few roads were still fewer signposts. Even the landmarks were generally similar.<br />

The Hill on the right or the Bush on the left was the general landmark on driving directions. Also<br />

a big stone or two large stones was a general direction. The result of this were frequent aberrant<br />

drives, which usually ended happily. Sometimes they ended in getting caught in the mire. If<br />

assistance was available within a reasonable period of time, these cases of being caught in the<br />

mire would conclude happily. Here and there were mire-trapped vehicles that had not received<br />

help. Their trip did not end happily. On the desert were places with the famous drift sand which<br />

was capable to swallow a man and even a car. Then no car remains visible, even if the journey<br />

would have finished very unfortunately.<br />

<strong>In</strong> those conditions I drew often amiss, but always happily. When we were, for the first time, on<br />

the way to Rabigh, which has already been mentioned, which we did not yet know the direction<br />

to, we used false landmarks and arrived at a cove. We went diving and waded with diving and<br />

snorkeling equipment along the shallow beach. Many times we saw a stingray take off. We took<br />

care of not to step on the whip-like tails of stingrays lying on the sea bed. The tails had very toxic<br />

spikes. We avoided also to step on dead corals which were darker than the sand. They could have<br />

been stone fish, which have deadly toxic back spikes. We moved and watched out, we watched<br />

put and moved, but we were not able to reach the reef and deep water. The water level in the<br />

shallow cove did not exceed a meter. We came back, disappointed, to our car guessing that we<br />

were in the wrong place.


81<br />

We did not foresee how wrong the place was. Our son’s diving friends made it later clear that we<br />

had been wading in a really dangerous cove. It was known for its hammerhead sharks, which are<br />

very dangerous to humans. Generally, it is not known that most shark attacks happen in shallow,<br />

below one meter deep water to people wading or treading water. That we knew, but we didn't<br />

know in what kind of place we were.<br />

The Red Sea underwater world around the coral reefs is, through diving masks, enormously<br />

beautiful and colorful, until, for example, humans destroy the corals. Different sea animals, sea<br />

anemones and corals give color. Everywhere swim both big and small fish. There are numerous<br />

big mussels, cowrie shells and other species. This underwater piece of nature is beautiful, but<br />

one must understand it, because it is very dangerous. There are cone shaped shells, which shoot<br />

deadly poisonous arrows, if you try to take them in your hand (Conus textilus). Beautiful Butterfly<br />

fish or zebra fish swim slowly like floating. They are poisonous. Poisonous Stone fish resembling<br />

the bottom stones or corals I mentioned already. Touching fire coral produces slowly worsening<br />

bad skin rashes which renew themselves, or if the coral scrapes the skin, difficult wounds. When<br />

water movement pushes a diver on top of corals then wounds and scratches are generated that<br />

become inflamed. All of this and other dangers like sharks, barracudas, moray eels and, in shallow<br />

waters, fast swimming reef fish, which flank fins, which are like razor knives and still other<br />

dangers that one is prepared to overcome in order to get the opportunity, while sucking air from<br />

a diving bottle or a snorkel, to monitor underwater life.<br />

*


82<br />

Alcohol is not available in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>. Not in hotels nor restaurants. There were exceptions to<br />

this rule, however. One very special exception was a Greek shipping magnate John S. Latsis and<br />

his Passenger ship in Jeddah port. The ship was in a well-guarded area. One got to the area only<br />

on Latsis’ invitation. All that happened to the ship or had taken place, I do not know. We were<br />

there on a number of occasions. The ship's interior was like a passenger ship in the 1930s. As<br />

soon as one entered the door one was greeted by a natural-sized Black doll in servant’s outfit.<br />

The salons of the ship and also the corridors were if not otherwise familiar, then from Hollywood<br />

movies. On this ship all sorts of alcoholic drinks were served. Latsis had in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> a unique<br />

special status.<br />

It was claimed that Latsis was as rich as Onassis, whom everybody knows. It was also said that he<br />

paid the press for not giving him publicity. He had started his ship-owners activity by shipping<br />

pilgrims in the Red Sea. He was also in the oil sector. The leading Greek oil company Petrola was<br />

his. He liked to appear even on festive occasions in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> dressed in a club jacket and a<br />

skipper cap. I learned some things from him. I saw him walking along the corridors of the major<br />

<strong>Saudi</strong> ministries. He opened the doors of the Minister’s and senior officials and went in to say<br />

hello. He had no issue to discuss. If the recipient was in a hurry, he just waved his hand at the<br />

door. <strong>In</strong> doing so, he remained on everyone's mind. <strong>In</strong> this way he had created the relations that<br />

brought him close to the Royal Family. When one of the members of the Royal family was about<br />

to leave the country or returning to the country, was Lasis among the escorts and recipients. I<br />

observed this after being there myself, for the same reason. Again, no important matters, but his<br />

presence drew attention.<br />

Latsis’ ship was commanded by retired Admiral Margarites . A Greek officer, who told me that he<br />

is still thinking best when walking in the room back and forth. He was accustomed to think while<br />

walking on the bridge. With Admiral Margarites we, once a while, organized dives among reef<br />

sharks of Jeddah.<br />

There was always good food on the ship, and sometimes there were several members of the<br />

Latsis family, including his good looking daughter. On occasion the ship was transferred to the<br />

Yanbu port. Latsis was building an oil refinery there. Other individuals and foreign businesses did<br />

not get such authorization. Sometimes even Latsis got into trouble, also with his oil refinery.<br />

"This is <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>. Take it or leave it”<br />

We lived for five years in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>. I like this country and its people. I also had good contacts<br />

with many <strong>Saudi</strong>s representing the liberal elite. My stories describe the chaotic time, which arose<br />

when the relatively poor Bedouin country, which, admittedly, had crude oil and, therefore, oil<br />

production, all of a sudden in a few years became one of the richest countries in the world, as<br />

per measured by gross domestic product. The Petrodollars cascaded and the country was driven<br />

into an explosion of development. Migrant workers came to the country nearly as many as there<br />

were, originally, local inhabitants. Advisors, consultants and experts came from all parts of the


83<br />

world. Building contractors, engineering offices, architectural offices and businessmen from<br />

every sector came and built “housing compounds” all around to accommodate their workers.<br />

During this period much amusement occurred and I have tried to describe it.<br />

Already when I came <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> I met the CEO of a very significant American Consultancy, who<br />

said the words of the title: “This is <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>. Take it, or leave it. So foreign was the modern<br />

technology and Western culture to these people, and so much money did they receive in such a<br />

short space of time, that a lot happened that was amazing.<br />

To <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> one was not allowed to bring alcohol, not wines nor beer. The Embassies were<br />

no exception. The only form in which alcohol came to <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> legally, although I do not know<br />

whether it was drunk in that form, was a limitless amount of well-known perfume brands in as<br />

large bottles as possible. My wife was not happy when a Finnish guest leaving a reception, when<br />

shaking hands with her, was in his other hand holding a large bottle of Eau-de-Cologne, which he<br />

had taken from our bathroom’s mirror shelf. The not so sober guest did not want to return the<br />

bottle when asked to do so. With the support of the other guests it finally succeeded. The next<br />

day, he was probably happy about the incidence.<br />

The embassies were expected to serve smuggled alcohol. The glasses were wrapped in a<br />

serviette, so that nobody would know what was in the glass. Whether it was Coca-Cola or whisky<br />

was, therefore, difficult to define. All the liquor was smuggled in with the furniture lifts. It was<br />

reported that to the British Embassy some friendly customs officer had announced that the<br />

Embassy people should soon enter the harbor tu pick up the furniture lift because, according to<br />

the documents, a grand piano in the moving container had begun to leak.<br />

<strong>In</strong> <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> worked a few million foreign guest workers. They were from all continents.<br />

Professions ranged from Professors to construction workers. Some of them tried to make ale and<br />

wine out of raisins and other fruits bought from shops. The hardest thing was to acquire the<br />

yeast. The <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>n elite had it easier. Publicly people very much resented the consumption<br />

of alcohol. At the same time, it was offered to the guests, which were known not to talk too much<br />

talk, in some of the homes. <strong>In</strong> <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> one was able to say that the law was the same for<br />

everyone, but it was not always followed diligently. Relations and position also had a part to play.<br />

Hypocrisy in terms of alcohol consumption can be explained. Although <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> has always<br />

been a deeply Islamic country, where the provisions of the strict Wahhabi sect are followed, there<br />

has not always been a prohibition of alcohol. During the time we lived there prohibition was quite<br />

necessary, as about 3 million foreign workers lived in the country, men without wives and<br />

families, with the exception of a few experts, who had a family with them. Alcohol would have<br />

led to difficulties in the country, where women are treated very differently than in Finland.<br />

However, the ban was put in force before the oil crisis in 1952. Until then, Non-Muslim foreigners<br />

had been allowed to bring alcohol for their own use to the country. To the Kings prohibiting<br />

decision then it is thought to have contributed to an incident, in which the <strong>Saudi</strong> Prince Mishair<br />

was involved. The story is that the Prince sought in the night to enter the home of his friend the<br />

British Vice-Consul Cyril Onsman. Because he was intoxicated, he was not allowed in. Angered,<br />

he first shot at the outer door and then fatally the Consul who tried to get help through the<br />

window. The Prince was sentenced to prison.


84<br />

It is well known, that Ramadan is a time of fasting. <strong>In</strong> <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>, Ramadan was taken very<br />

conscientiously. During the day, one did not drink nor eat. Not to drink was in a 40-to 50-degree<br />

heat quite a performance. Foreign visitors were offered the opportunity to eat in some corner in<br />

their hotel. To eat or drink, so that other people could see it, however, was not allowed. During<br />

Ramadan, people were very tired and the work performance was not at its best during the whole<br />

month.<br />

This applied to daylight time. During night time religion does not require fasting. Therefore drinks<br />

and delicious dishes were collected and stored a long time before Ramadan. The month of<br />

Ramadan was for many a time of nightly non-alcoholic celebration and eating. I think this is a<br />

very peculiar way to fast. It was the cause of workers tiredness and not the fastening. Who is able<br />

to work a day after celebrating the whole night maybe sleeping a few morning hours? The streets<br />

were at night just as vibrant as in the last days of Christmas shopping during opening hours in<br />

Europe. All the shops were open and everything ells functioned in the cities in the night.<br />

<strong>In</strong> the hot desert there is no tropical greenery, which quickly covers the waste from being seen.<br />

Therefore, car wrecks were left as a memory of the accident and what had happened. They were<br />

not covered. There were many wrecks. The desert winds and sand storms sometimes polished<br />

the car wrecks. That kind of junk I have not seen anywhere else.<br />

The roads were driven in accordance with the "ins Allah" method. This meant that, as well during<br />

the night as the day cars and other vehicles were driven at full speed and when a car in front was<br />

reached it was immediately overtaken. It did not matter if there was another car coming against<br />

or not, because human destiny is predetermined. Therefore, one should always overtake,<br />

because that was the fastest way to get forward. Of course, this was not always successful. Very<br />

magical was also the fact that if on the road were only two cars driving in different directions,


85<br />

they managed to collide. I do not know why, maybe the drivers were looking too closely on each<br />

other. If both cars drove 100 – 150 km per hour and collided front to front it resulted in very<br />

impressive-looking car wrecks.<br />

Traffic accidents were not, however, always this serious. It could happen that people did not die,<br />

but were merely injured. <strong>In</strong> due course, the police arrived to the scene. The police did not provide<br />

first aid. <strong>In</strong>stead, the police immediately began to question those involved. If the parties were<br />

unconscious, they were shaken as long as until they would regain consciousness, in order to be<br />

able to tell how the accident happened. This way of treating damaged had led often to a bad<br />

outcome.<br />

One of the interesting features of the <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>n justice were less severe road accidents. Both<br />

opposing parts were put in the same cell. They were told when they had resolved the issues of<br />

guilt and agreed over everything, they were free to go. I think this is the perfect way to solve<br />

smaller car accident cases, where there is no serious injuries to people, without having to burden<br />

the courts of justice.<br />

A car driver got to watch out for some surprising things. The poor Yemeni families were<br />

sometimes using their old relatives to earn money by pushing them in front of a car on a busy<br />

road or street. The motorist was not able any longer to avoid an accident and the pushed person<br />

tended to die. The car driver was released from a prison sentence, which easily otherwise<br />

threatened, especially, expatriate drivers, who had to pay the victim's family blood money. That<br />

had been the intention. It was told that the victims themselves had accepted the plan.<br />

Law in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> was hard and the order good. Sharia law uses the death penalty and the<br />

amputation of the hand of a thief. When the courts decide to use such penalties it raises<br />

considerable attention in the press in the Western countries. Fortunately, there was not often<br />

the need to use these punishments. Their existence kept the crime rate low. On any alley was a<br />

man able to walk around any time even at night without worry and without fear. A woman was<br />

not supposed to move outside in the night time.<br />

When the harsh penalties were used, it happened in public and it was mentioned in all the news<br />

media. Thus, the potential impact of the rare heavy sentences was the best. The stoning of<br />

women, of course, is a very cruel form of execution and public flogging defamatory. Stoning was<br />

implemented so that already the first stones led to loss of consciousness and flogging, so that<br />

one essential of this punishment was simply in its disgrace.<br />

Justice practices are really not my field. <strong>In</strong> many instances, however, I have been left to wonder<br />

how much in my own country the victims of crime have to suffer without any support, when the<br />

criminals with their free legal assistants receive a mild human sentence. <strong>In</strong> practice, the length of<br />

the sentence will be shortened and the criminals as soon as possible allowed vacation, if they<br />

have received a prison sentence. Somewhere between these two systems fair and just practices<br />

for everybody must exist.<br />

The law should always be the same for everyone. It has not always been, since in authoritarian<br />

systems those with good relations were able to influence the result. This did not apply to serious<br />

crimes, but applied anyway to some. I was able to take advantage of the fact that with good<br />

relations it was possible to help one’s own citizens, which, for various reasons had got into


86<br />

trouble with the authorities. Some had dared to photograph landing passenger planes in the<br />

evening sun, and received a spying charge, one had driven against red lights. A brazen crime was<br />

to bring alcohol in one’s suitcase, if one had already lived in the country and knew the rules. One<br />

Finnish hero got two years in prison for bringing to the country two beer bottles. It should be<br />

noted that he was drunk and started to threaten the customs official, which was definitely not<br />

recommended. Turning to the relevant Governor I got him free and out of the country.<br />

Our lunch guests once were disturbed by hearing loud clatter. There had been a crash. That<br />

happened outside our House once in a while. A little after that the doorbell sounded. Some<br />

moments later came a Sudanese servant to tell that something had happened. I asked him to call<br />

the police, and to help the possibly damaged. When this did not solve the matter we went to see<br />

what had really happened. Someone had been speeding and ended by crashing into the rear of<br />

the last in the row of our guests’ parked cars. The cars, which now took less parking space, as<br />

they were partly on top of each other, were severely damaged. When, after a long waiting time<br />

we finally got an interrogation by the police to begin, he tried to arrange a fifty-fifty sharing of<br />

the damages. Half of the cause was the Somali driver who had crashed into the parked cars and<br />

half of the parked cars owners. That was the view of the police. The parked cars owners were not<br />

satisfied with this solution. When they went the next time to the interrogation, the situation had<br />

completely changed. It was revealed that the driver had given wrong personal identification. The<br />

police used now the hit and ask method. He always hit first the driver and then asked a question.<br />

Quickly, the person concerned pleaded guilty, but naturally he was unable to pay anything.<br />

Generally, we as Europeans had easier bigger trouble with the police, than the Arabs themselves.<br />

One Arab drove through red traffic lights and police stopped him. He got out of charges by getting<br />

the police to believe that traffic lights really are only for Europeans. <strong>In</strong> Europe there are all over<br />

traffic lights, because the Europeans are not able to drive without traffic lights. As the Arabs again<br />

are able to drive without traffic lights, it explains why in the Arab world at the time there were<br />

almost no traffic lights yet, so it is understandable that an Arab cannot be condemned for leaving<br />

a traffic light unobserved. He is able to drive without. This is how the Arab got out of his<br />

predicament.<br />

One of the Finnish also tried to drive through red traffic lights. He did not get out of his<br />

predicament as easily, but was thrown into a prison cell. When in <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> in those days<br />

somebody was put in a cell, nobody was informed. The prisoner was not allowed to contact<br />

anyone. When we, on a released prisoner's tip, were able to contact the Finnish prisoner, he had<br />

already been more than a week in a cell. <strong>In</strong> <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>n prisons, at least not in the pretrial<br />

prisons the prisoners did not always get enough food. Food was brought relatives and<br />

acquaintances. This's poor Finn’s relatives and acquaintances did not know that he was in prison.<br />

I doubt there were any relatives in the country. Fortunately, he had some money and he was able<br />

to bribe a guard to bring him food. The diet the guard brought was very one-sided. The person<br />

concerned lived for more than a week on eating only bananas. When we met he told me that he<br />

would never eat bananas. His hair was also cut in the prison, but that was, of course, only good,<br />

because in jail it’s difficult to keep one’s hair clean.<br />

The country's culture, which is based on the Wahhabi traditions of Islam, had strict rules. Women<br />

tended generally to be veiled. One could not imagine a woman behind a car’s steering wheel. The


87<br />

men carried out a large part of the shopping. The women lived in harems. The concept “Harem”<br />

is not odd when you know that it is the plural "harem" of the word “hurma” Arabic for woman.<br />

Women did not, therefore, live in anything peculiar, they lived together in their home. <strong>In</strong> a<br />

traditional <strong>Saudi</strong> household guests were not brought to that part of the house, where the women<br />

and children lived, i.e. the harem, they were held in other rooms. The rules were harsh and they<br />

sought to preserve the old traditions and culture. That is why to those who came to work in <strong>Saudi</strong><br />

<strong>Arabia</strong>, and who wanted to live there, certain obligations were set. The principle was: "This is<br />

<strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>. Take it or leave it. "<br />

This way the <strong>Saudi</strong>s protected their own culture and their own traditions. From similar cultures<br />

people are now arriving in Finland. We do not require them to comply with our customs and<br />

habits, instead we give them our support, so that they can maintain their own. We let them also<br />

openly maintain their own religion which was not allowed to us in their culture. The <strong>Saudi</strong>s gave<br />

priority to their own culture and the preservation of their own traditions as well as the<br />

strengthening of their own religion. <strong>In</strong> Finland, there is reason to remember the saying "Maassa<br />

maan tavalla tai---" (“<strong>In</strong> a country according to its habits or out---“). It is not an obstacle to the<br />

provision of jobs for immigrants nor integration.<br />

<strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>'s neighbors were "stepping countries".<br />

A derogatory word “stepping countries” (“jalkamaat”) was used in the foreign service for<br />

countries where an Ambassador was accredited and worked, in addition to the country where he<br />

resided. The aim was not, of course, to derogate the countries. Maybe the word was referring<br />

back the time when the head of mission arrived on a horse or by boat and literally stepped on<br />

the country. Of course, the same applies to the arrival by plane, by train or by car. I used three of<br />

the mentioned ways to arrive. I was Ambassador residing in Jeddah also in Bahrain, Qatar, Oman,<br />

the United Arab Republic of Yemen and the United Arab Emirates. The UAE is composed of seven<br />

Emirates: Abu Dhabi, Dubai, Sharjah, Fujairah, Ras Al Khaimah, Umm Al Quwain, and Ajman.<br />

I went to each of the countries as<br />

much as possible, sometimes<br />

because of oil, most of the time<br />

because of projects. At the same<br />

time, I tried to learn to know these<br />

countries and the people in them. I<br />

toured the United Arab Emirates,<br />

visiting all Emirates and did not<br />

leave out the desert roads. There<br />

were no tourists yet at the time in<br />

these countries. To Dubai and<br />

Fujairah began the first organized<br />

trips when my trips ended. The


88<br />

climate in the winter months in the countries of the <strong>Arabia</strong>n Gulf were most wonderful for visiting<br />

Europeans.<br />

Bahrain, called the Green Island, a small Island State in the Gulf of <strong>Arabia</strong>, was not very green<br />

when I moved around there. One could drive around the island and at the same time, the entire<br />

State, in a matter of hours. Green was represented by the Palm forests, where damage began to<br />

appear due to the vibrant construction work. The Emir ruled his State, where in the capital city<br />

Manama, there were new palaces, but primarily old Arab buildings. Delightful were the Arab<br />

sailing ships called dhows which one could still see in the ports of the island and more generally,<br />

in the Gulf of <strong>Arabia</strong> or the Persian Gulf. I should have said that only the name <strong>Arabia</strong>n Gulf was<br />

accepted in the countries of the<br />

<strong>Arabia</strong>n Peninsula. The capital city<br />

of Bahrain is Manama, as already<br />

said. Manama was the city of pearl<br />

fishers, before the Japanese<br />

invented the cultured pearls. On the<br />

Bahrain deserts one could find a lot<br />

of archaeological remnants. On the<br />

island and the nearby East Coast of<br />

current <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> lived, about<br />

6000 years ago, the Dilmun culture.<br />

From there, I found myself stoneage<br />

tools.<br />

<strong>In</strong> Bahrain foreigners worked in<br />

construction and other tasks.<br />

Bahrain was relatively liberal. The<br />

rulers were Sunni Muslims, but the<br />

majority of the population were<br />

Shia Muslims, two sects of the<br />

religion of Islam, who do not<br />

particularly admire each other,<br />

except that Islam unites all. Foreign<br />

families were allowed to go to the<br />

Emir’s beach. The sandy beach was<br />

beautiful and there was a small<br />

Palace of the Emir, from where he<br />

could use his binoculars.<br />

Near the city there was a beautiful<br />

oasis with a flowing well of about<br />

five meters in diameter. Local boys<br />

jumped into this well and their glee sounded far in the palm forest. Close to the well also the<br />

Finns had built private residences. The builders were not among our best known businesses. The<br />

names, at least, stayed in my memory, as this building project was dealt with in Courts of law for


89<br />

a long time as the parties involved accused each other for the various problems that arose. The<br />

point was to keep the parties out of debt captivity, which was not always completely successful.<br />

The country's Foreign Minister, Sheik Mohammed bin Mubarak Al Khalifa was a deeply cultured<br />

and impressive person who was familiar with the problems of the region as a whole.<br />

Unfortunately, the limits of the State did not allow him the influence, which he would have been<br />

able to take full advantage of.<br />

When I studied the impact of the surrounding countries on <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>, I observed, that the<br />

activity of Iran's fundamentalist regime again was causing fear. <strong>In</strong> Bahrain a coup against the<br />

Sunni rulers was planned. Bahrain was the smallest country in the region. If the coup attempt had<br />

been successful and the Government would have fallen, the <strong>Saudi</strong>s assumed, and had assumed for<br />

several years, that the subversive activities would be continued. After the Government of Bahrain<br />

fell, the next to fall would perhaps be in Kuwait, then in the UAE and finally <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>. For this<br />

reason, the Bahraini events were taken very seriously. Immediately after the events stronger<br />

support for Iraq in the war against Iran was publicly emphasized.<br />

The island nation of Bahrain was the only Gulf country, which was not almost entirely, but only<br />

about 50 % oil dependent. A road bridge between <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> and Bahrain was in the pipeline.<br />

When I visited the country later, it had been about four months completed. Border controls with<br />

customs and immigration officers were still missing. When they were in place, it would take a<br />

few months, before the bridge opened. I had the opportunity to drive across the bridge. Close to<br />

the bridge linking the mainland and Bahrain were, on the Bahraini side, the then <strong>Saudi</strong> Petroleum<br />

Minister Yamani, the former <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>In</strong>dustry Minister Algosaibi and the <strong>Saudi</strong> Defense Minister<br />

Prince Sultan in the process of building houses for themselves. As Emir of the Eastern Provinces<br />

of <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> ruled King Fahad’s son Prince Muhammad.<br />

<strong>In</strong> <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> there were no significant changes in Bahrain expected after in the opening of the<br />

bridge. The bridge was built also due to security policy reasons. At that time, some hundreds of<br />

<strong>Saudi</strong>s arrived on weekends by plane to Bahrain, where lifestyles were more liberal and less<br />

restricted. The amount was estimated to increase in the future. The addition was estimated to<br />

be a few hundred. For those who were looking for entertainment and night clubs were Cairo and<br />

Bangkok better travel destinations.<br />

*<br />

Normally an Ambassador begins his function operations by leaving a credential letter from his<br />

Head of State to the Head of State of the country concerned. Sometimes he had in the Arab world<br />

to act even before the credential letter had been presented.<br />

With Qatar weapons sales were discussed. Colonel Vuorimies from Valmet Oy, had received<br />

some orders and was actively expanding his operations. Patrol boats, assault rifles, grenade


90<br />

launchers and bazookas were subjects of negotiations. His sudden death in August 1978 broke<br />

off the started negotiations.<br />

I flew to Doha, Qatar's capital city to present my credential letter with my wife <strong>In</strong>ger .I was<br />

dressed in a dark suit, my wife had a long-sleeved blouse and long skirt, such as local customs<br />

required. The Protocol was meeting us in front of the stairs as we came out first from the aircraft<br />

into the very windy Doha. Naturally we stepped out of the plane in a very dignified way as<br />

required by the situation. A little disarray was caused by the fact that my wife’s skirt behaved like<br />

Marilyn Monroe’s in a classic movie. The wind blew her skirt up over her head and her hands got<br />

tangled in the skirt as she tried to pull it down fast. I happened to see the hilarious look on the<br />

face of the<br />

American pilot of<br />

the aircraft. The<br />

others remained<br />

dignified.<br />

The next day I was<br />

presenting my<br />

credentials. Such<br />

ceremonies are, in<br />

all countries,<br />

solemn. <strong>In</strong> most<br />

cases, they include<br />

the Ambassador<br />

inspecting an<br />

honorary company<br />

and the playing of<br />

the national<br />

anthems with the<br />

Ambassador<br />

standing in front of<br />

the honorary company. I inspected and I was standing. I have heard our National Anthem played<br />

in many ways, although it is customary to send the sheet music in advance. What I heard this<br />

time was peculiarly enjoyable. I kept my face dignified, but it was not easy.<br />

Then we moved on toward the head of State’s, the Emir Khalifa Al-Thani’s reception room. <strong>In</strong> the<br />

large entrance hall laying around was a bodyguard in Bedouin costumes. The weapons were<br />

pointing in different directions. As a pastime of the guards, many of the weapons were directed<br />

on me. I was happy when we got through the entrance hall, then weapons fire sometimes also<br />

accidentally.<br />

Exactly this guard had been receiving from Finland beautifully chrome-plated assault rifles. The<br />

buyer had wanted gold-plated, but gold-plated that were not delivered, because it didn't hold in<br />

test firing. It should have been delivered. These weapons were not bought for shooting, but for<br />

the honor guard. <strong>In</strong> addition, they could afford to buy new ones if the gold plate would have


91<br />

peeled off. The rest of the ceremony went smoothly discussing with the Emir of Qatar the<br />

possibilities of cooperation between Finland and Qatar.<br />

Qatar is not a naturally beautiful land. The desert is mostly rocky ground, where hardly anything<br />

grows. The country, however, produces oil so it was able to buy a sea water distillery, and then<br />

to water the capital area planted with Palm trees and other vegetation, so that the scenery<br />

improved.<br />

I arrived once by car from Jeddah through the Arab peninsula to the Qatari border and I gave my<br />

passport for inspection after filling out the immigration papers. As Ambassador to Qatar I<br />

expected the inspection be very fast. That was not the case. The inspection took a long time and<br />

we waited. The members of the family traveling with me, wife and son Joakim, began to get<br />

bored, and I got frustrated. I was tired after the long drive. My questions about the reasons for<br />

the long wait did not receive a response. Finally a friendly customs officer came, who had been<br />

in Finland, on a customs training course. He explained the issue. I had given a wrong first name<br />

in the immigration form. The passport had a different first name. I had been annoyed before by<br />

the fact that our diplomatic passports were still only in trench language, as in many countries<br />

English would have been understood somehow. My passport read: "Monsieur Kai Helenius”. I<br />

had in the Immigration form given the first name "Kai". I fixed it quickly. I apologized and I wrote


92<br />

in a new immigration form as my first name "Monsieur". All were satisfied and the journey<br />

continued.<br />

<strong>In</strong> Doha, in company with businessmen I got into a problematic situation. One of the gentlemen<br />

felt in the middle of walking in the shopping alleys of the souq a urgent natural need. It was not<br />

appropriate to go to the side of the street, as some now do in Helsinki after excessive beer<br />

drinking. No acceptable place was found. <strong>In</strong> all gateways there were always people. <strong>In</strong> one of the<br />

shops was a large flower planting. I spotted the look of the person who had been holding back<br />

for a long time, and I ran away quickly from the store, to show that I was not in the same<br />

company. I came back after some time. Nothing had happened. On my return, I discovered that<br />

behind the planting was a big mirror, so any transaction would have been seen through the shop<br />

window from the street. Even men have concerns.<br />

A second gentleman had really bad luck in a similar situation. Our small plane made in a violent<br />

lightning storm, landing at the Larnaca airport in Cyprus. The wind against us was so strong that<br />

the fuel would not have been enough to achieve our objective. The landing was a real experience.<br />

The aircraft constantly swerved in the thunderstorm so badly that the pilot considered it<br />

appropriate to let us know that the up and down bending wings of the jet will bend but not break.<br />

When we landed, I ran together with a second passenger, in the dark, due to our natural need<br />

quickly to the wall of a shed. The third passenger delayed on the plane, and followed then our<br />

trail. As he stood in front of the shed wall suddenly bright lights came on. What we thought was<br />

in the dark was a shed of the terminal building, from where an angry person rushed out talking<br />

loudly and rightly about completely inappropriate behavior. We apologized humbly, and not<br />

without reason.<br />

*<br />

I had to fly a lot on the <strong>Arabia</strong>n Peninsula. The distances were long and negotiations frequent.<br />

Mainly one was able to use commercial flights, but small planes were often available. Several<br />

<strong>Saudi</strong>s had one or more private jets. The oil companies had their own and so on. Connections<br />

with route planes not in all directions were not available, so a charter jet was, for busy<br />

delegations, often the only sensible solution.<br />

I joined a Finnish delegation that flew in a chartered Norwegian jet. We flew first to the capital<br />

of Yemen, Sana’a. We were negotiating there a couple of days. Our next aim was Muscat in<br />

Oman, both on the South end of the peninsula. The night before our departure we tried to reach<br />

the plane’s Norwegian pilot. Him we did not reach, but at the bar we found the plane’s co-pilot<br />

who was just able to talk. He said the pilot was resting. We asked whether the gentlemen were<br />

able to fly the next day, and got a positive answer.<br />

The next day we departed slightly late. The pilots did not have all the paperwork and permits in<br />

order on time. We also got to hear that we would have to fly to a detour. A direct flight was not<br />

allowed. We did not, however, get further than the runway. We accelerated, braked and stopped.<br />

The plane, which was not very new, had developed technical failure. It could not be fixed the<br />

same day, because a spare part had to be flown in.<br />

We were in a hurry to Oman. I called the Prime Minister of Yemen, who had been our host. Space<br />

was arranged for us in the route plane to Jeddah. I had already called there to arrange a plane


93<br />

for our flight to Oman. One of the familiar <strong>Saudi</strong>s lent his plane. He asked us to pay the overnight<br />

hotel fee in Oman for the pilots. There would be no other expenses for us for the Learjet into<br />

which we were<br />

packed like oil<br />

sardines in their tin.<br />

without anyone of our trade delegation disturbing the other by snoring.<br />

We reached Muscat<br />

in the small hours, so<br />

we were, the next<br />

day, not very alert.<br />

We met Members of<br />

the Government and<br />

representatives of<br />

the economy of<br />

Oman. Luckily for us<br />

we were offered,<br />

continuously, Arab<br />

coffee, so we spoke<br />

our sometimes too<br />

long presentations<br />

Perhaps it is appropriate to point out that Salem bin Laden loaned us his plane, a member of the<br />

same family as Osama bin Laden, well known through press and television. Salem was a nice,<br />

modern chap. From his plane above the Hormuz Strait I made my first satellite phone call. He had<br />

a jet pilot's license. Often he took care of the take-offs and landings with the main pilot sitting<br />

quietly next to him.<br />

He died in Texas. <strong>In</strong><br />

an accident flying<br />

an ultralight plane.<br />

At that time the<br />

landing was not<br />

successful.<br />

One Oman visit<br />

included a<br />

helicopter tour to<br />

the Green<br />

Mountain. I will<br />

never forget it.<br />

Flying through<br />

narrow mountain<br />

passes, with an<br />

Omani helicopter


94<br />

was really thrilling, because the weather was worse than usual. The mountains, of course, were<br />

beautiful.<br />

Oman was an interesting country. The capital Muscat brought to mind “Thousand and one<br />

nights”. Those stories were from around Baghdad, which now brings other things to mind.<br />

Muscat’s City Centre looked like the most beautiful old <strong>Arabia</strong>. Close to the Sultan's (King’s) Royal<br />

Palace were located the US and British embassies. <strong>In</strong> front of them was a prison island, from<br />

where in the morning, one heard the clatter of shackles, when prisoners arrived to the boat<br />

bringing food supplies for them. The island looked like a hill and the chains clattered on the slope.<br />

I got to know His Majesty Sultan Qaboos better than usually because his uncle was in<br />

collaboration with the Finnish mining company Outokumpu Oy. The presentation of my letter of<br />

credentials was a very solemn event, which was followed by a discussion with the Sultan. During<br />

the discussion, the local traditional delicacy helava was served. Helava was eaten from small<br />

white enameled metal bowls with a blue border, with the right hand without a spoon. The enamel<br />

bowl reminded me of my childhood’s washing bowls. It seemed strange in the glamorous Palace.<br />

Surroundings. The sweet Oatmeal-like delicacy was memorable, but I did not ask for a recipe. <strong>In</strong><br />

Finland we could serve at similar events a dish called “mämmi” (malted rye) in a small basket<br />

made from birch bark with a wooden spoon.


95<br />

I had the opportunity at a later time to further discussions with the Sultan. This was supported<br />

by the already mentioned uncle, Sheik Mustahil, as well as the content of the interesting<br />

discussions. The <strong>In</strong>teresting discussion topics included additionally to Finnish Omani relations and<br />

trade Middle East policy and history, but also the probability of Star Wars. Not Reagan's<br />

rearmament competition, but the possibility that sometimes there would in the space be a<br />

conflict between different solar systems sometimes. <strong>In</strong>deed, there have been a number of films<br />

on this topic.<br />

I had also to convincingly prove to the Sultan, as earlier to the <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>n Royal family, that<br />

Finland was not a Communist country. Some of the companies from a neighboring country were<br />

using that rumor to get a better competitive position. The Soviet Union was then not popular in<br />

in Oman.<br />

More popular was the former protector the United Kingdom. The Sultan was a Sandhurst<br />

educate, whom the British helped to power replacing the conservative rather. They thought it<br />

would increase their own influence, but Qaboos turned out to be a modern and independent.<br />

However, he continued to use British military experts. <strong>In</strong> the Omani capital Muscat in a military<br />

ceremony I saw for the first time paragliding soldiers.<br />

The more than 300 kilometer long sandy beach “Batinah” of Oman stayed in my memory. There<br />

I watched the birds and the fast moving a periscope-eyed crabs, which quickly fled into their holes<br />

when I approached. I have many memories. From the beach I remember especially one crab<br />

which did not escape but approached me bravely waving its only claw. We stared at each other,


96<br />

and then we both turned away. The tide water became a memory for me and especially for a<br />

visiting Finnish businessman group. All members of the group left their excess clothes in on the<br />

empty sandy beach, although I warned about the tidewater, when we went for a walk. When we<br />

returned, what I anticipated had happened. Fortunately all pieces of clothing were still swimming<br />

around in the shallow water, drying slowly in the hot humid climate.<br />

<strong>In</strong> Oman, the Persian Gulf and <strong>In</strong>dian Ocean coastal State, I watched, for the first time, an<br />

exhibition consisting of mere holograms. The chairs were so authentic that they invited one to<br />

sit down. More spectacular than the holograms, however, was my wife’s and my first visit to<br />

Sheikh Mustahil’s home. <strong>In</strong> the front of the house lay Bedouins who, when we arrived happily<br />

shot into the air to our honor. The host let us in and we sat down into deep arm-chairs. The host<br />

kicked the Bedouin servant who wanted to serve coffee first to me. The second kick made it clear<br />

to him that he should serve my wife first, which he did unwillingly. Time after time he forgot this<br />

serving order. The Sheikh was familiar with our culture, The Bedouins did not. It would be<br />

wonderful if the old Bedouin culture would survive, but it is not likely.<br />

Oman was internally and externally peaceful. The declining level of oil prices was damaging to the<br />

poor state Oman, which will not be able to proceed as it was planned, so economic activity<br />

decreased to some extent. Oman was the only Gulf country which had given to the Americans so<br />

called support point rights. At the time in Oman were under construction four separate<br />

American military bases, built by Americans and financed by Americans. These military bases<br />

were controlled by the Omanis. Therefore, they were not actual bases, but support points. They<br />

would be ready if the United States would need them in some crisis.<br />

<strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>, Kuwait, Oman, the UAE, Bahrain and Qatar the GCC had during the second half<br />

of 1981 formed the GCC or Gulf Cooperation Council, which was the first so large formal<br />

effort to economic cooperation between the countries.. The cooperation was extended also to<br />

internal and external security.<br />

*<br />

The mountains are beautiful also in Yemen as are the terraced plantations. Presenting credential<br />

letters in the Yemen Arab Republic was, in many ways, interesting. I was the first Finnish<br />

Ambassador to Yemen. The country had and has a lot of tribes with regional power. <strong>In</strong> these<br />

regions the Government does not have any power. The Government's power was told to end in<br />

a 25-mile radius of the largest cities, so the capital city Sana’a and the commercial cities Taiz and<br />

Hodeida. <strong>In</strong> this country, ruled once the Queen of Saba. From her time was, close to the desert,<br />

the city of Marib the world's first dam construction.<br />

The presentation of my credential letter to the President of the Country Ali Abdullah Saleh in<br />

1979, was done through a very militaresque ceremony. <strong>In</strong> the front of the car the protocol had<br />

given me the police escort and an off road vehicle equipped with a machine gun. Behind my car<br />

was another machine gun equipped off-road vehicle. <strong>In</strong> front of the Presidential Palace stood an<br />

honor guard company, and a little farther away a manned antitank cannon looking out of the<br />

Palace. The ceremonies took place without any problems. My Japanese colleague was presenting<br />

his credentials the same day. This was his third flight to Sanaa to do it. On previous occasions, he


97<br />

had to return empty handed, as the Presidents Ibrahim al Hamdi († 11.10.1977) and Abdul Karim<br />

al Ghasmi († 24.6.1978) were murdered during his stay.<br />

Everything else in Yemen did not run smoothly. There were even two Yemen. North Yemen or<br />

The Yemen Arab Republic and South-Yemen the Democratic People's Republic of Yemen. Because<br />

the countries had agreed to unify into one nation-state, with Sanaa as capital I did not<br />

recommended to accredit an Ambassador in the South. This position was influenced by the fact<br />

that East German men trained terrorists there and I thought that Finland had more commercial<br />

interests involving the other peninsula countries. During my successor’s time this "imbalance"<br />

was fixed. The countries were later unified as was agreed.<br />

The diplomacy of the People's Democratic Republic of Yemen, was very unusual. From the<br />

nation's capital Aden an Extraordinary Ambassador was sent to deliver a letter to the President<br />

of North Yemen. The message was in a sealed attaché case and should not be shown to anybody<br />

else. When the Ambassador then opened the case in the president’s room both the President<br />

and the Extraordinary Ambassador died in the explosion. I was pleased that I was Finland’s<br />

Extraordinary Ambassador. Our diplomacy was more usual.<br />

To our diplomacy, as to all international diplomacy, belong verbal notes and the exchange of<br />

notes. It is not a question of anything else than of a name given to the form of the exchange of<br />

letters between Governments. Also to Yemen we had to send different types of enquiries and<br />

presentations in the form of verbal notes. We never received an answer. When I went to see the<br />

Ministers I did get a response, but a important written confirmation for Finland was still missing.


98<br />

been an improvement.<br />

I found the reason why. <strong>In</strong> the Yemeni<br />

Foreign Affairs Ministry nobody was willing<br />

to write the verbal notes that we needed. I<br />

chose a new road. When delivering a verbal<br />

note I also delivered an answer addressed to<br />

us. The Yemeni authorities signed the<br />

answer and so the exchange of letters was<br />

working just fine. We received responses<br />

faster than ever.<br />

Politeness was, in the Yemeni culture, at a<br />

high level. It was not as striking as in the<br />

afternoon the completely usual Qat-leaf<br />

chewing, preferably as a big wad in the<br />

cheek. This shrub had taken living space<br />

from other agricultural products, because it<br />

gave a better price. <strong>In</strong> addition, it was the<br />

main import article from Somalia. Qat<br />

contains the drug amphetamine. It really was<br />

chewed by almost all of the men in the<br />

shops, open-air markets and in homes. It<br />

took away both thirst and hunger. It is<br />

claimed to even increase the potency. Car<br />

drivers chewed it also. I did not notice any<br />

influence on driving. Any changes to the<br />

driving habits in the country would have<br />

Back to the politeness. The Yemenis are usually slim. Finland's Honorary Consul was not skinny.<br />

Rather on the contrary. Even his brother was not lean. Rather on the contrary. His driver was also<br />

not skinny. The car was an American limousine with a wide back bench. My wife was sitting with<br />

me on the back bench. We belong to those of statistically normal weight. We recommended to<br />

our Consul who sat with his brother and driver squeezed on the front bench to move to the back,<br />

where we had a lot of space. As a polite Yemeni he replied: "you guys are so fat that you need<br />

the whole bench". Obesity was a sign of value in the country.<br />

Once the main role of the diplomats at the Court of the country of their assignation was the<br />

prevention of war, unless their ruler wanted just the opposite. Now the world has a lot of<br />

organizations and unions, which have the same role. The start of a war in a crisis region, however,<br />

is one of the things for a diplomat to detect and inform ones government about as soon as<br />

possible. If for nothing else, then for the preparation of an opinion statement. Today the<br />

information comes through media and news agencies, but the official announcement is the<br />

official announcement. The situation was frequently tense between North Yemen and South<br />

Yemen, even if they had agreed on unification. The bomb loaded Ambassador was an example,<br />

even though he was innocent.


99<br />

I received during the course of one afternoon information, that the South Yemeni troops had<br />

crossed the border to North of Yemen and continued to move forward. War had broken out. I<br />

dictated immediately a telegram to the Ministry and promised to come back to it, when I could<br />

acquire more detailed information. A<br />

few hours later I discovered that the<br />

telegram had not been sent. The<br />

typist in the office had not got it<br />

finished, when her workday ended<br />

and had gone home. It was<br />

important to follow carefully the<br />

working hours or require overtime<br />

payment. The war did not really<br />

matter. Fortunately, I got the<br />

message sent. The next day, it was<br />

obvious that this had been only a big<br />

border scuffle. Fighting in Yemen did<br />

not threaten Finland, but I wanted to<br />

give as accurate a picture as possible<br />

of the situation, so I used all of my<br />

channels in order to get information.<br />

<strong>In</strong> Yemen worked also Finnish<br />

construction companies. I had to find<br />

out if their staff was in any danger.<br />

According to the information I<br />

received, there was no imminent<br />

danger and nothing more was on the<br />

way. Now in the e-mail time similar<br />

problems no longer arise. Diplomats<br />

write their messages themselves<br />

without the need of secretaries.<br />

The Yemen Arab Republic was in the<br />

worst shape of the mentioned<br />

countries. The government’s power did not reach almost anywhere. <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> supported on<br />

one hand the government and, on the other hand, the tribes in the North. These were<br />

supported by letting a main part of the imports of sugar and fuel to the Yemen Arab Republic<br />

be smuggled in from <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong>. <strong>In</strong> this way, the Government did not earn any customs’ duties<br />

and lost even more power. <strong>In</strong> the country worked the National Democratic Front (NDF), which<br />

was an Organization of resistance, mainly financed by Libya and supported by the Democratic<br />

Republic of Yemen.<br />

The NDF had clearly strengthened. The situation in the Yemen Arab Republic was currently calm,<br />

but no one in Yemen did expect I to last for long. The <strong>Saudi</strong>s, on the one hand, and the Soviet<br />

Union on the other hand, were seeking to increase their influence in this country. If there would be<br />

any significant changes, they could affect the entire peninsula.


100<br />

When I came to the <strong>Arabia</strong>n Peninsula I wanted of course to leave my credential letter also to<br />

the ruler of the United<br />

Arab Emirates, the Emir<br />

of Abu Dhabi HRH,<br />

Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan<br />

al Nahyan, but that was<br />

not easily done. The<br />

country was proud and<br />

wanted an Ambassador,<br />

who were residing in the<br />

country. I was told that I<br />

can operate freely, all the<br />

Ministers and others<br />

would meet me, even<br />

though I have not<br />

delivered my credential<br />

letter. <strong>In</strong> that way I<br />

worked, but I used my acquaintances and relationships constantly to stress the importance of<br />

delivering my credential letter. Usually an Ambassador has to wait for the ceremony a few weeks,<br />

sometimes longer. I had to wait 3 years and 361 days until I solemnly presented my credentials<br />

in the UAE. Maybe this is the international record. Many left the UAE without ever presenting<br />

their credentials. They will not be counted.<br />

I presented my credentials in Abu Dhabi during the end stage of my time on the <strong>Arabia</strong>n<br />

Peninsula. We had already agreed on my move from <strong>Saudi</strong> <strong>Arabia</strong> to Finland at the turn of the<br />

year. My move had been made earlier, presumably, when Pär Stenbäck became Minister of<br />

Foreign Affairs. He wanted to help some of those of his Swedish People’s Party in Finland to new<br />

better tasks, which was the usual horse-trading. My home language is Swedish, but I am writing<br />

my first name Kai with an I at the end, when those speaking Swedish normally write with an J.,<br />

so I was one of the replaced. The Minister noticed only later that my mother tongue was Swedish.<br />

I moved to Finland at the turn of the year 1982-83.<br />

One of my last official tasks during my time as Ambassador on the <strong>Arabia</strong>n Peninsula was the<br />

finalizing and signing of an Agreement on Scientific, Technical and Economic Co-operation<br />

between Finland and the UAE, which had been negotiated for a really long time. My job was<br />

to negotiate the content and wording of the agreement with the purpose of increasing the trade<br />

between the two countries. I negotiated this agreement for a long time. The text was changed<br />

several times here and there. Finally, we agreed on the final text and the time of the signature.<br />

Just before signing, a new English language text was given to me. It was full of language errors.<br />

Changes to this text the counter-party no longer accepted. I called Finland by phone and<br />

explained the situation. It was agreed that we sign, because the relevant content responded to<br />

our wishes and the changes did not damage the agreement. This agreement with its peculiar<br />

English language is now part of Finland’s international agreements.<br />

Kai Helenius


101

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