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LEFT Annie the dog cozies 

up near the Christmas tree. 

AT RIGHT, CLOCKWISE 

FROM TOP LEFT Felipe isn’t 

about to dress down for the 

festivities. Holiday décor on 

point. An elaborate spread of 

finger foods. 

Holiday 

Celebrations 

photography by Emily Joan Greene 

It’s the most wonderful time of the year, 

and we’re sharing our holiday party (and 

our Oregon gift picks) with our readers 

(page 78). 

6 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2017

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2017 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 7

FEATURES 

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2017 • volume 48 

96 

6 Winter Getaways 

There may be a chill in the air, but 

Oregon has great escapes year-round. 

written by Sheila G. Miller 

78 

The 1859 

Holiday Gift Guide 

This year, we’re inviting you into our 

office holiday party—with our picks 

for Oregon’s best gifts for family 

and friends. 


92 

The Flying Irishman 

Rides Again 

Denny Edwards made a name as a daredevil 

motorcycle jumper. This year, he came 

out of retirement. 

written by James Sinks 

The patio at Brasada Ranch 

overlooks the Three Sisters. 


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DEPARTMENTS 

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2017 • volume 48 

LIVE 

22 NOTEBOOK 

Get in the spirit of the season with holiday events, Oregon Christmas 

albums, and a new cookbook that revels in Oregon bounty. 

Joni Kabana 

58 

UO Athletics 

COVER 

photos by Emily Joan Greene 

graphic by Brooke Miracle 

(see Holiday Gift Guide pg. 78) 

120 

16 Editor’s Letter 

18 1859 Online 

126 Map of Oregon 

128 Until Next Time 

32 FOOD + DRINK 

Beers can pair well with holiday food—even fruitcake. We’ve got 

insider tips for hitting Southern Oregon’s culinary hot spots and a few 

places to warm up by a roaring fire. 

40 FARM TO TABLE 

An inside look at Rosse Posse Acres in Molalla, one of fewer than a 

dozen elk ranches in Oregon. Plus, recipes for taming gamey elk. 

48 HOME + DESIGN 

Some of Ashland’s ’70s ranch homes are undergoing remodels that 

give them a new lease on life. 

58 MIND+ BODY 

University of Oregon’s acrobatics and tumbling squad performs feats 

of strength and daring. 

60 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 

Sienna Morris’s artwork gives a whole new meaning to the term “paint 

by number.” 

THINK 

66 STARTUP 

Barley Buck uses beer’s byproduct to create deer feed. 

70 WHAT’S GOING UP 

Mixed-use developments in Portland, Bend and Eugene bring housing 

and commerce together. 

72 WHAT I’M WORKING ON 

Thomas Giachetti’s volcano research could save our lives. 

74 MY WORKSPACE 

Newberg’s Anvil Academy brings Wild West ingenuity to at-risk youth. 

76 GAME CHANGER 

Sustainable fishing gets a big assist from Jeff Wong’s Community 

Supported Fishery. 

EXPLORE 

104 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 

Waldo Lake is oft-overlooked because of nearby Crater Lake. But it’s 

breathtaking in its own right. 

106 ADVENTURE 

The Rocky Point Canoe Trail in the Klamath Basin offers the quiet thrill 

of a solitary adventure. 

112 LODGING 

Get your rustic cabin fix with a trip to Loloma Lodge. 

114 TRIP PLANNER 

Troutdale is the gateway to the Columbia River Gorge—and so much 

more. 

120 NORTHWEST DESTINATION 

McCall, Idaho, is a lakeside mountain idyll with year-round outdoor 

activities to delight the whole family. 


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CON 

T R I 

BUT 

ORS 

JAMES SINKS 

Writer 

The Flying Irishman 

Despite what you may hear, great stories do not typically fall out of the sky. Then again, Denny Edwards and 

his flying motorcycle are not your typical story—and exactly the kind of story that’s rewarding to report for 

1859. We’re all getting older. Some of us are getting wiser (I’m not). How long can we keep doing what we 

love? The Flying Irishman’s comeback is an inspiration—or cautionary tale—for all of us. 

(p.92) 

AMY KORST 

Writer 

Artist in Residence 

I was delighted to interview Sienna Morris for this issue’s Artist in Residence piece, as a naturalist at heart and 

student of archaeology at the University of Washington. Morris’ studio is a treasure trove of fascinating artifacts 

for scientists and artists alike, and the artist happily showed off her collections and shared her stories. 

(p. 60) 

JULIET GRABLE 

Writer/Photographer 

Adventure 

After writing about the Rocky Point Canoe Trail, I was happy for an excuse to go back. I love the duck’s-eye 

perspective of shooting from a kayak, and working with the elements of sky and water. 

(p.106) 

PETER MAHAR 

Photographer 

Artist in Residence 

I always find new appreciation for people and their art when I get to photograph them—this was like a 

backstage pass into Sienna’s world. As soon as you walk into her home in Portland, you see her art and 

photographs lining the walls. Colorful post-it notes cover blinds and walls. I have so much more respect for 

what she does because of the countless hours she spends researching, talking to experts in their fields, doing 

test sketches, and then meticulously writing very small numbers and equations to make up her piece. 

(p.60) 


Imagine a place where kindness and love prevail. 

A society in which all beings have a place, a purpose, 

and a sense of belonging. Join us in creating a more 

humane society. 

Visit oregonhumane.org to take the pledge. 

#bemorehumane

EDITOR 

MANAGING EDITOR 

CREATIVE DIRECTOR 

DESIGN 

MARKETING + DIGITAL MANAGER 

WEBMASTER 

OFFICE MANAGER 

DIRECTOR OF SALES 

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES 

HOME GROWN CHEF 

BEERLANDIA COLUMNIST 

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS 

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS 

Kevin Max 

Sheila G. Miller 

Brooke Miracle 

Allison Bye 

Kelly Hervey 

Isaac Peterson 

Cindy Miskowiec 

Jenny Kamprath 

Cindy Guthrie 

Jenn Redd 

Jill Weisensee 

Thor Erickson 

Jeremy Storton 

Kim Cooper Findling, Viki Eierdam, Juliet Grable, Kjersten Hellis, 

Amy Korst, Sophia McDonald, John Riha, Ben Salmon, Vanessa 

Salvia, James Sinks, Jen Stevenson, Mark Stock, Jeremy Storton, 

Cara Strickland, Lori Sweeney, Mackenzie Wilson 

Anthony Castro, Timothy J. Gonzalez, Juliet Grable, Emily Joan 

Greene, Peter Mahar, Bill Purcell, Jenn Redd, Austin White 

Statehood Media 

Mailing Address: 

Portland Address: 

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Suite 100-218 Suite 100 

Bend, Oregon 97702 Portland, Oregon 97209 

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FROM THE 

EDITOR 

LAST YEAR, WHILE I WAS TOURING 

the World of Speed museum, a new Oregon 

venue dedicated to America’s love of 

fast vehicles, one exhibit caught my attention. 

Among hotrods and classic cars was 

a small Triumph motorcycle with a storyboard 

showing a man in a white one-piece 

launching off ramps and sailing through 

blue sky—clouded by time—on that little 

Triumph, “The Flying Irishman” emblazoned 

above him. 

As luck would have it, The Flying Irishman, 

Denny Edwards, turned out to be an 

Oregonian and coming out of retirement 

for a final jump at Evergreen Aviation Museum 

in McMinnville. At age 72 in August, 

Edwards would grip the handlebars of his 

Triumph once again, with the jump ramp 

spiked down the center of his field of view. 

Writer James Sinks went out to the scene 

to take us into that moment when Edwards 

donned his shamrock helmet and took 

us back to the era of Evel Knievel. Thank 

you, Mr. Edwards. May the ramp rise up 

to meet you. Read this inspiring piece on 

page 92. 

Second only to motorcycle stunt jumping, 

our thoughts turn to the holidays in 

the waning months of the year. There will 

be people related to you making demands 

on your time and patience soon. They 

will say things like Happy Thanksgiving, 

Merry Christmas and Happy Hanukkah 

while putting on house slippers and 

angling toward the kitchen with feigned 

nonchalance and the pit of some political 

point they have been aching to score 

all year. Many of these people will expect 

to be on the receiving side of gift-giving. 

Can you imagine? 

No worries. We put together our gift 

guide this year in a fun way. We threw a 

party and exchanged gifts early. On page 

78, we help take the stress out of gift giving 

this holiday season. We roll out our 2017 

holiday gift guide with our favorite Oregon-made 

products and services, including 

splendid jewelry that cloaks the year in 

the forgiving light of romance, a new-generation 

wool shirt built for daily use and 

cookbooks from Oregon chefs that dish up 

local bounty for your aspiring cook. 

Our own Home Grown Chef confesses 

to being an Elkaholic and walks us through 

the steps of how to create the perfect peppered 

elk backstrap with Oregon pinot 

noir-huckleberry sauce. From Park Kitchen 

and Dick’s Kitchen, both of Portland, we 

get recipes for cocoa-braised elk shoulder 

and blueberry-fig chutney, respectively. 

Any of these incarnations of elk will dazzle 

your holiday guests and keep it local at the 

same time. Not feeling up to the culinary 

task? Book a table at Park Kitchen, Dick’s 

Kitchen or another local restaurant with a 

good game chef. Of course, the 1859 Wine 

Club is the ultimate gift for, really, anyone 

of age and with taste. Find it on the 

homepage of 1859magazine.com. 

Happy holidays from all of us at 1859! 


MACEY IS 

ON HER WAY. 

THANKS 

TO PEOPLE 

LIKE YOU. 

Meet Macey. When she was five, her parents got the call no family expects. 

Brain cancer. The news could have been devastating, but they knew she had 

an amazing team behind her. And after nine hours of surgery at OHSU 

Doernbecher Children’s Hospital, there was hope. 

Macey at Doernbecher. Today, she’s a 

thriving nine-year-old. Your generosity 

makes all the difference. 

At Doernbecher, the leading edge is everywhere, thanks to generosity from 

people like you. For Macey, that meant two of the country’s best pediatric 

brain surgeons. For kids across the Northwest, it means new discoveries, 

breakthrough treatments and more smiles. Please make a gift today. So that 

whenever the call comes, Doernbecher’s lifesaving care will be there. 

OnwardOHSU.org/kids 

ONWARD // THE CAMPAIGN FOR OHSU

1859 ONLINE 

More ways to connect with your favorite Oregon content 

1859magazine.com | #1859oregon | @1859oregon 

have a photo that shows off your 

oregon experience? 

Share it with us by filling out the Oregon Postcard 

form on our website. If chosen, you’ll win custom 

1859 gear and a chance to be published here. 

1859oregonmagazine.com/postcard 

photo by Danny Oltmanns 

The Crooked River Bridge. 

ENTER TO WIN 

BEST COOKBOOKS OF 2017 

Emily Joan Greene 

MORE ONLINE 

Take a peek behind 

the canvas with 

illustrator Sienna 

Morris in our extended 

online photo gallery. 

1859oregonmagazine. 

com/artwork 

If there’s one thing people of the 

Pacific Northwest love to do, it’s cook. 

Go online and enter for a chance to 

win our collection of 2017’s best 

PNW cookbooks. 

1859oregonmagazine.com/ 

cookbookcontest 

Peter Mahar 


NOTEBOOK 22 

FOOD + DRINK 32 

FARM TO TABLE 40 

HOME + DESIGN 48 

MIND + BODY 58 

ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 60 

pg. 40 

Elk can weigh in excess of 950 pounds. 

Anthony Castro

Nonstop 

EUG to San Jose 

Connecting the Silicon Shire to the Silicon Valley

notebook 

Tidbits + To-dos 

Holm Made Toffee Company 

Donna Holm has been perfecting 

her famous toffee recipe for the 

past twenty-five years. This Bend 

company is committed to using only 

the best ingredients, with hazelnuts 

sourced from right here in Oregon. 

With six available flavors, we think 

it’s the perfect thing to bring to your 

holiday party or share with family 

and friends. 

holmmadetoffee.com 

mark your 

calendar 

Jacksonville Victorian Christmas 

Plan a trip to historic Jacksonville and experience its charming 

Victorian Christmas. This event encompasses everything you 

could want in a holiday festival—carolers, trolley rides, hot 

cider, a parade and tree lighting ceremony. This adorable 

Southern Oregon town comes alive with history—celebrate 

the holidays the old-fashioned way. 

jacksonvilleoregon.com/victorian-christmas 

Soft Star’s Fireside Sheepskin Slipper 

What better way to get through the winter season than 

with a pair of Soft Star’s feather-light, impossibly cozy 

slippers? These are fully lined, with plush sheepskin— 

the ultimate comfort for your feet. This Oregon-made 

footwear company features a flexible design with a leather 

sole, and they roll up for travel too. So comfy you’ll want 

to wear them everywhere. 

softstarshoes.com 


www.seasideoutlets.com 

 

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SUNDAY-THURSDAY: 

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FRIDAY-SATURDAY: 

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Finger food 

for the holidays 

seasideOR.com 

Maloy's offers a fabulous selection of antique and 

estate jewelry and fine custom jewelry, as well as 

repair and restoration services. We also buy.

notebook 

Leoni Montenegro Candle Holder 

Give your table some rustic elegance this holiday 

season with these handmade candle holders by 

woodcrafter and designer Leoni Montenegro. Made 

in Hood River, these reversible holders made from 

old wine barrel staves are the perfect centerpiece. 

leonimontenegro.com 

mark your 

calendar 

Wine Country Thanksgiving 

Willamette Valley wineries are opening their doors over the 

Thanksgiving weekend in celebration of the completion of 

another successful harvest. More than 150 winemakers will offer 

special tastings of new releases and older vintages, as well as food 

pairings, live music and sales of limited-quantity wines. Bring your 

friends and family out to one of the best events of the season. 

November 24-26 

willamettewines.com 

mark your 

calendar 

Festival of Lights at the Grotto 

A Portland tradition and a must-visit if you’re in 

town during the holiday season, the Grotto is the 

perfect setting for an evening walk among the 

lights. Enjoy the warm holiday feel with carolers 

and a life-sized nativity scene, and don’t miss 

the indoor music concerts. Family entertainment 

abounds each night in the plaza. 

thegrotto.org 


notebook 

SEASONAL 

SOUNDS 

Add an Oregon twist to your holiday playlist 

Every year, Christmas music creeps into our lives earlier 

and earlier. And every year, the same old seasonal 

standards get more and more stale. In 2017, spruce up 

your holiday listening with locally crafted sounds 

from Oregon artists. Happy holidays! 

1 

written by Ben Salmon 

Pink Martini, Joy to the World (2010) 

Portland’s favorite “little orchestra” offers a 

cosmopolitan take on the holiday sound, including 

a Hebrew hymn, a Chinese New Year song, “Silent Night” in 

its original German, a Ukrainian carol and “White Christmas” 

sung in both English and Japanese. Along the way, the group 

explores just as many musical styles with swing 

and sophistication. 

2 

The Trail Band, Joyride (2015) 

Yuletide enthusiasts in The Trail Band—led by 

Quarterflash front-couple Marv and Rindy Ross— 

have recorded seven Christmas albums over the past 

thirteen years. Each one is stuffed with original numbers and 

traditional favorites done up in the group’s folksy Americana 

style, complete with cozy string sections, festival brass 

instruments and honeyed vocal harmonies. 

3 

Paul Revere & The Raiders, 

A Christmas Present … and Past (1967) 

Fresh off a string of big hits, Paul Revere & The 

Raiders did what any good late-’60s band would do when 

asked to make a Christmas album: turn in a half-baked concept 

record about the commercialization of the season, including a 

punk track, Vietnam War references, an off-key “Jingle 

Bells,” vaudeville comedy and a kazoo solo. The result? 

One of the great hidden gems of the genre. 


Experience Bend’s 

Living Room 

Sam Bush 

Mandolin Virtuoso 

Thursday, Nov. 9 

Vitaly Beckman 

Master Illusionist 

Friday, Nov. 17 

A Charlie Brown 

Christmas - Live on Stage 

Monday, Nov. 27 

TICKETS & INFORMATION: 

541-317-0700 TowerTheatre.org 

The heart of Central Oregon 

The Tower Theatre 

@towertheatrebnd 

Sonos Handbell 

Ensemble 

Monday, Dec. 11 

TheTowerTheatre 

The Tower Theatre TheTowerTheatre 

@towertheatrebend 

@towertheatrebnd @towertheatrebend

notebook 

4 

Chris Botti, December (2002) 

Jazz superstar Chris Botti is a skilled and tasteful 

trumpeter, so it’s no surprise that his album of 

holiday songs goes down smoother than a second glass of 

spiked eggnog. From “The Christmas Song” to “The First Noel” 

to Leonard Cohen’s “Hallelujah,” Botti offers up a quietly 

gorgeous take on several Christmas classics. Put this on after 

the party’s over and everyone’s gone home. 

5 

Andy Warr and Andy Stokes, 

’Zat You, Santa? (2011) 

Portland’s Andy Stokes is arguably Oregon’s bestknown 

R&B singer. Andy Warr is a talented saxophonist from 

Bend with funky flair. Put ’em together and you get ten tracks 

of Christmas favorites, pumped up with bouncy bass lines, 

vibrant horns and heaping helpings of soul. The highlight: 

Stokes digging deep into the bluesy side of “Please Come 

Home for Christmas.” 

+ 

BONUS: Willamette Week’s annual 

Another Gray Christmas compilation 

From 2007 to 2011, the Portland alt-weekly 

Willamette Week put together annual compilations of 

left-of-center Christmas tunes from a whole bunch of the 

city’s indie acts, and they called it Another Grey Christmas. 

(For two years. Then they changed it to Another Gray 

Christmas for some reason. Or probably no reason.) The 

series seems to have petered out in 2011, but it lives on at 

a long-neglected Bandcamp profile (anothergraychristmas. 

bandcamp.com), where you can click around and check 

out originals and traditionals by artists like Typhoon, Nick 

Jaina, Dolorean, Laura Gibson, Your Rival, Mic Crenshaw 

and Pure Country Gold. You’ll be hard-pressed to find a 

broader and more Portland-y vision of Christmas. 

Listen on Spotify 

Find our Oregon holiday 

playlist online. 


5" 

HOW TO STORM WATCH 

IN SEASIDE 

For the best view, head out to the Turnaround. 

As the storm rolls in, watch the surf and sky dramatically transform. 

Then close your eyes and extend your arms to the heavens. 

Feel the wind whip around you and the rain pound down as nature 

unleashes the awesome power of her winter fury! 

Then go find a cozy coffee shop and warm up. 

seasideOR.com 

” 

EXECUTION: SEASIDE STORM WATCHER 

FILE NAME: seaside_1859_9x5.4375_storm.indd 

PUB: 1859 

FINAL TRIM SIZE: 9" wide x 5.4375" tall 

LIVE AREA: 8.75" x 5.3125" 

BLEED: .125"

notebook 

Bibliophile 

The Secrets of Supper Club 

Andrew Barton shares his recipes 

in The Myrtlewood Cookbook 

interview by Cara Strickland 

Peter Schweitzer 

A NATIVE OF EUGENE, Andrew Barton is a preschool teacher 

in Portland by day, and a cook in his off hours. In 2010, with 

no formal culinary training, he founded a supper club called 

Secret Restaurant Portland, a gathering he mostly populates 

with friends and acquaintances. In 2014, he created and selfpublished 

The Myrtlewood Cookbook, a collection of classic 

supper club recipes and new dishes created for the book. 

This year, it was released by Sasquatch Books, packed with 

even more of Barton’s warm sensibility and stories. 

Unlike many 

cookbook authors, 

you’re not a trained 

chef. What was your 

journey to create 

this book? 

I started cooking 

actively in a large group 

house during college. 

There were fourteen 

people living there, and 

we had to put dinner on 

the table for everyone 

every night of the week. 

About six months after I’d 

graduated, I really started to miss that 

feeling of knowing that I had to get 

dinner on the table. I created Secret 

Restaurant Portland with a friend. 

My father is an author, my mother is 

a librarian, so I grew up surrounded 

by books. Through a combination 

of reading and then actively putting 

those lessons into practice, I became 

really interested in the cookbook 

format and started to get increasingly 

more inspired by reading them and 

then thinking about putting my own 

dishes on paper. 

Your book is filled with Pacific 

Northwest food riches. What are 

some of your favorite parts 

of cooking and eating in 

this region? 

When a lot of people have 

asked, ‘What is Northwest 

cooking?’ I say, ‘Well, there’s 

a lot of mushrooms, a lot 

of fish and a lot of greens.’ 

I feel like those are the 

ingredients that I grew up 

eating and appreciating 

and then missed out on 

while I was in college in 

Vermont. I tell people 

that Oregon is kind of like Northern 

Italy, England and Japan all mixed up into 

one—three of the areas in the world with 

the most consumption and traditional 

mushroom recipes—and here we are 

in a place that is producing that many 

mushrooms of interest and then being 

so close to the coast and being a state 

full of rivers we have a really abundant 

delicious seafood as well. That’s always 

been my focus and reoccurring interest. 

Eating and cooking and community 

are central themes in your book. What 

importance do you see in enjoying 

food communally? 

For me, it all goes back to that communal 

living situation in college, particularly 

because I have a very small family. I grew 

up an only child with parents who were 

only children. I had one very influential 

grandparent, my mother’s mother, a 

classic grandma who could cook very 

well, but essentially I did not experience 

that large group family dinner that so 

many people did. And yet, my family 

did really value dinner together every 

night. My father tends to come up with 

wonderful lines, repeating them over 

the years. One of them is that he’s so 

grateful that our family enjoys talking 

to each other. I really took that to heart. 

So, in college, in that communal living 

situation where we would be cooking 

for fifteen plus five to ten guests every 

night, with plates and bowls in our laps 

or on the coffee table in front of us, 

it would be important to talk to each 

other. We were all in this giant room 

and we had so many things going on 

in our lives, and so much to share. So 

that really crucial six-month period 

where I wasn’t doing anything like that, 

after college, I think part of what I really 

missed was that group table dynamic. 

So beyond the supper club project I 

think I’ve just grown more and more 

interested in having as many dining 

experiences with a group of loved ones 

as possible. 


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food + drink 

Beerlandia 

Beer Pairings for the Holidays 

written by Jeremy Storton 

illustrated by Allison Bye 

WHEN I WAS IN COLLEGE, I spent Thanksgiving holidays with 

my godfather’s family, which was filled with great cooks. Besides 

the exceptionally well-prepared traditional food, we also feasted 

on amazing international fare like Mexican enchiladas and Filipino 

lumpia. These days I reminisce and wonder what beer I would pair 

with such a complex and diverse holiday spread. There are many 

ways to pair beer and holiday food well. I consulted with some 

experts to inspire us to keep our holiday pairings on the “nice” list. 

Even though they are professionals, I strongly suggest you try this 

at home. 

Chef Jeff Usinowics from Deschutes Brewery suggests starting 

with a baked brie and apples, or roasted pears with balsamic vinegar, 

and pairing that with Black Butte Porter. “Your palate gets that really 

rich, silky and sexy chocolate,” he said, “but it’s not so overpowering.” 

Jeff Tobin, Certified Cicerone and co-founder and head brewer 

of Mazama Brewing, suggests pairing a doppelbock like Mazama 

Brewing’s Mazamanator with cheeses like Swiss emmentaler or 

gruyère and dark meat off the turkey. “If you get some dark meat 

off the turkey, doppelbock is a great companion to that,” Tobin 

said. “The heavy maltiness needs a fair amount of meat flavor 

to it and anything heavier, darker, roasted or grilled goes great 

with doppelbock.” 

And, for dessert, Tobin offered an interesting departure from the 

norm—Deschutes’ Red Chair NWPA with fruit cake. 


food + drink 

Recipe Card 

recipe courtesy of Raven & Rose 

Tilton Sour 

2 ounces Weller bourbon 

1 ounce fresh lemon juice 

¾ ounce simple syrup made with 

equal parts water and evaporated 

cane sugar 

¾ ounce egg white 

Angostura bitters 

Combine bourbon, lemon juice, 

simple syrup and egg white in 

a shaker. Shake without ice for 

fifteen seconds, then with ice for 

ten seconds. Double strain into a 

chilled coupe glass. Garnish with 

a few drops of angostura bitters 

for aromatics. 

Crowley Wines uses grapes that are certified organic. 

Taking a Light Touch 

written by Carrie Wynkoop of Cellar 503 

TYSON CROWLEY and Evan Roberts are serious wine geeks, but in the 

best possible way. If you’re lucky enough to spend some time with them 

in the winery, you’ll find yourself immersed in the best techniques of 

winemaking with none of the pretension. 

You’ll also find yourself talking to two guys who are as passionate about 

where the grapes come from as they are the process of making wine. In fact, 

for a pair of guys who don’t own one, they’re pretty obsessed with finding 

exactly the right vineyard. 

As proud members of the Deep Roots Coalition, Tyson and Evan are 

committed to working with family-owned vineyards that don’t irrigate and 

practice low-impact farming. The vineyards they partner with are LIVE 

Certified or certified organic, and they work closely with their growers to 

ensure the grapes in their wine truly represent the land, climate and season. 

When making wine, they take a very light touch—eschewing additives, 

using native yeasts and neutral oak. As Crowley puts it, “We value purity of 

expression over stylized wines and hold essential the belief that we cannot 

improve on nature.” 

The 1859 Wine Club will feature Crowley Wines’ 2015 Willamette Valley 

Pinot Noir in our November shipment, just in time for Thanksgiving. 

Join the 1859 Wine Club to explore more Oregon wines at 1859magazine.com/wineclub 


DO YOU KNOW JOE? 

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winery and the Oregon wine industry as you take in 

the sweeping views of the vineyard. The setting is warm 

and relaxing with cozy fireplaces and seating areas, 

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food + drink 

WEEKEND 

WANDERINGS: 

SOUTHERN OREGON 

Each Peking duck at Portland’s Departure restaurant is cured overnight in salt, sugar and a spice 

blend of cinnamon, star anise, coriander, clove, allspice, nutmeg, fennel and chili. 

Gastronomy 

Departure’s Peking Duck 

written by Jen Stevenson 

COME DECEMBER, Portlanders flock to the city center to marvel at 

Pioneer Courthouse Square’s majestic 75-foot-high Christmas tree, 

bejeweled with more than 14,000 twinkling lights. But for some of the most 

dramatic views of this festive fixture, with a side of the city’s best Peking 

duck, head fifteen stories straight up to the top of The Nines hotel, where 

Departure chef Gregory Gourdet has established a beloved holiday tradition 

of his own. A true labor of love, each duck is cured overnight in salt, sugar 

and a spice blend of cinnamon, star anise, coriander, clove, allspice, nutmeg, 

fennel and chili, blanched in rice wine, honey, salt and more 7-spice, then 

hung to dry for twenty-four hours, slow roasted, and flash fried. Departure’s 

Peking pomp and circumstance includes a pre-feast tableside presentation 

of the mahogany-skinned bird, before it’s whisked back to the kitchen to 

be carved. It’s returned shortly thereafter—sliced and served with candied 

kumquats, mandarin pancakes, housemade plum sauce, slivers of scallions 

and cucumber and a rich, savory duck bone broth. For the grand finale, 

Gourdet folds any remaining shreds of meat into a decadent garlic and 

ginger-laced duck fried rice fortified with duck fat, gizzards and liver. The 

kitchen prepares only thirty ducks a night, and devotees come from near 

and far to claim them, so reservations are a must. 

525 SW MORRISON ST. 

PORTLAND 

departureportland.com 

36 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2017 

John Valls 

Ward off winter-induced cabin fever by planning 

a road trip to Southern Oregon for a weekend of 

world-class theater, restaurant hopping, boutique 

browsing and wine tasting...plenty of wine tasting. 

EN ROUTE 

Zipping along the I-5 corridor between Portland 

and Ashland, scrumptious pit stops are plentiful. 

Rice Hill’s ever popular K&R Drive Inn slings 

old-fashioned cheeseburgers, thick-cut fries and 

Umpqua ice cream to a grateful lineup of roadweary 

travelers. The soccer-ball-sized cinnamon rolls 

at Heaven on Earth in Azalea have a cult following. 

Not to be missed—the tasty trio of Lillie Belle 

Farms artisan chocolates, Rogue Creamery and 

Ledger David Cellars, which share one delicious 

block in sleepy Central Point. 

EAT + DRINK 

It’s all too easy to bypass Grants Pass, but pull over 

and stay a while—Ma Mosa’s dishes up a formidable 

house-brined corned beef hash and no fewer than 

nine signature mimosas, The Haul specializes 

in casual, beer-friendly bites and also serves as 

Applegate-Valley based Conner Fields Brewing’s 

tasting room, and the year-round Saturday Grants 

Pass Growers Market is one of the region’s finest. 

Nestled between Grants Pass and Jacksonville, 

the scenic Applegate Valley is home to one of the 

state’s most intriguing wine regions. Sip biodynamic 

Rhône-style wines at Cowhorn, schlep your flight 

down to the Applegate riverbank at Red Lily, 

play checkers by the fireplace at Schmidt Family 

Vineyards, and toast glasses of tempranillo around 

the outdoor fire pit at Wooldridge Creek Winery, 

which also serves a cheese plate featuring its own 

CrushPad Creamery cheeses. 

Best of luck finding better blueberry pancakes 

than the ones at Ashland’s Morning Glory cafe, 

where savvy brunchers queue up a few minutes 

before opening to bypass the rush. For a midday 

meal that will stick to your ribs, brave the bothhands-required 

house-cured pastrami sandwich at 

Sammich, then spend a long, leisurely evening with 

crispy sweetbreads, truffle-roasted game hen and a 

local pinot noir at Amuse. 

Explore Medford’s thriving beer scene, with suds 

stops at Opposition Brewing Company, Portal 

Brewing Company, and Walkabout Brewing 

Company, then sample smoked blue cheesestuffed 

lamb meatballs and baked manchego with 

quince sauce at eclectic Elements Tapas Bar. 

Fifteen minutes west of Medford, explore historic 

Jacksonville, a lively three-blocks-long town that has 

painstakingly preserved its Gold-Rush era charm. 

Browse the boutiques, sip syrah at the Quady 

North tasting room, dine on cider-brined pork 

chops at eclectic Gogi’s, then listen to live music at 

Bella Union.

Join our Fiesta Club 

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Down To Earth is the premier shopping destination 

for unique gifts in the heart of Eugene. Look for 

the old checkerboard silo atop the historic 

Farmers’ Union Marketplace – 

just one block north of 

the Hult Center. 

downtoeartheugene.com 

DTE 1859 Magazine Nov/Dec2017 

Join us for our Fall 

Uncorked Barrel Tour 

Sunday, Nov 19 - 11am to 5pm 

Enjoy 18 wineries, appetizers, tastings and fun at this 

self-paced wine tour event. Tickets are $49 each and 

include a commemorative Wine Trail wine glass. 

Visit our website for tickets and more information. 

Y E A R S O F 

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producing a diverse array of outstanding wines. 

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food + drink 

BEST PLACES FOR 

FIRESIDE FARE 

MULTNOMAH WHISKEY LIBRARY 

When the Portland rains dampen your spirit, beat a hasty 

retreat to this swanky inner sanctum of spirits (no fewer 

than 1,600 spirits, in fact). The best seat in the house is 

the sumptuous leather sofa directly in front of the brick 

fireplace, tableside-mixed hot toddy in hand. If famished 

from an afternoon of high-octane holiday shopping, order 

the house burger, made with thirty-day dry-aged local beef, 

rye-soaked caramelized onions, foie butter, brie and bacon. 

photos by Christine Dong 

1124 SW ALDER ST. 

PORTLAND 

mwlpdx.com 

KELLY’S BRIGHTON MARINA 

December not only kicks the holidays into high gear, it also 

marks the start of Oregon’s highly anticipated Dungeness 

crab season. Bundle up and borrow a crab pot from this 

Rockaway Beach mainstay (toss your pot right off the 

dock, or opt to rent a motorboat), then feast on freshcaught 

crustacean while huddled around the outdoor fire 

pit overlooking peaceful Nehalem Bay. 

29200 HWY 101 N. 

ROCKAWAY BEACH 

kellysbrightonmarina.com 

ARIANA 

As the brisk November winds usher in December snow 

flurries, hole up with someone special, a bottle of Bordeaux 

and the duck confit cassoulet or Dungeness crab risotto 

at this longtime fine dining darling. Set inside a snug 1916 

Craftsman-style bungalow a few blocks from Mirror 

Pond, the dining room is flanked by both a flickering 

fireplace and a merry bar, so whether celebrating with the 

five-course chef’s tasting menu or simply seeking a quick 

glass of winter cheer, you’re covered. 

1304 NW GALVESTON AVE. 

BEND 

arianarestaurantbend.com 

TIMBERLINE LODGE 

Even the most devout fair weather lover won’t mind being 

snowed in at this famed National Historic Landmark, 

where skiers, shredders and lodge loungers alike pile into 

the wood-beam-framed Ram’s Head Bar to take a break 

from the slopes or sauna. Against the dramatic backdrops 

of Mount Hood or Mount Jefferson, dig into the cast iron 

skillet-bound Après Ski Fondue—a silky mix of melted 

raclette, fontina and white cheddar cheeses, roasted garlic 

and Mt. Hood Brewing Co.’s Ice Axe IPA. Afterward, retire 

to a seat by the stone fireplace, and let it snow. 

27500 E. TIMBERLINE RD. 

GOVERNMENT CAMP 

timberlinelodge.com 

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP A rockfish baked in salt. House-fermented pork, rice and vermicelli 

sausage. Muscovy duck laab with duck liver and Vietnamese coriander. 

Dining 

PaaDee 


UNLIKE ITS LARGER, more competitive national counterparts, Portland 

doesn’t stress too much about reservations—it’s a rarity to find a restaurant 

that can’t squeeze in a 5 p.m. walk-in. That is, unless the restaurant you’re 

trying to walk into is Langbaan. Chef-owner Earl Ninsom’s widely lauded 

twenty-four-seat Thai prix fixe is as widely known for its elusive twicenightly, 

Thursday-through-Sunday seatings as for its grapefruit and shrimp 

miang kham. But in June, a ray of hope for those locked out of Langbaan 

came in the form of adjoining sister restaurant PaaDee’s Issan menu, 

which celebrates the bold flavors, spice and funk of Northeast Thailand. 

Served Monday and Tuesday nights only, the menu offers unforgettable 

plates like Muscovy duck laab with duck liver and Vietnamese coriander, 

house-fermented pork, rice and vermicelli sausage, and a whole McFarland 

Springs trout grilled in a thick crust of salt and served with tiny, crackercrisp 

leaves of baby romaine, tendrils of fresh mint and dill, oyster and king 

trumpet mushroom relish, and a duo of spicy dipping sauces. For dessert, 

delve into a caramelized coconut brownie sundae with chunks of fresh 

mango, then see if you can sweet talk your way onto the Langbaan list. 

6 SE 28TH AVE. 

PORTLAND 

paadeepdx.com 


Experience 

the allure of Oregon 

truffles and wine at the 

Oregon Truffle 

Festival 

The Joriad North American 

Truffle Dog Championship 

january 25 • eugene 

Eugene and surrounds – 

a truffle extravaganza! 

january 26, 27 & 28 

Yamhill Valley – 

Celebrating the Legacy 

of James Beard 

february 16, 17 & 18 

tickets on sale 

oregontrufflefestival.org 

Oregon’s Willamette Valley. 

A paradise for the palate. 

The secret lies deep in ancient volcanic Jory soil. Between 

the misty foothills of the Cascades and the coastal range, 

the terroir is elementally perfect for growing world class truffles 

and wine grapes. The result? A seductive offering of taste 

encounters that evoke a sense of place like no other. 

Come discover The Terroir of Truffles. The Valley awaits… 

& 

alesong brewing | angela estate | brooks winery | capitello wines | dry sparkling | eugene cascades and coast | the falls event center 

gran moraine winery | heritage distilling co. | illahe vineyards | joel palmer house | king estate | left coast cellars 

ninkasi brewing | oregon wine lab | oregon wine press | pfeiffer winery | ruddick/wood | travel oregon | visit mcminnville 

wildcraft cider works | wolves & people farmhouse brewery

home farm to + table design 

Farm to Table 

Rosse Posse Acres 

Taking elk farming to heart 

written by Sophia McDonald 

photography by Anthony Castro 

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT A female elk poses for a 

portrait. A herd of elk trot to the feeder. A male elk 

stands ready for mealtime. 

THE ANIMALS GRAZING at Brenda 

Ross’s 52-acre Molalla property looked 

peaceful enough. Then out of nowhere, 

one of the 9-foot-tall ruminants reared 

up on its hind legs. A sweat gland near 

its eye flared open, and its nose and 

towering antlers pointed to the sky. 

The pale brown elk began punching its 

neighbor—now also on two feet—with its 

powerful hooves. 

Ross was unmoved. “Elk are wicked 

mean,” she said, gazing through the fence 

at her ranch and petting zoo, Rosse Posse 

Acres. “They’re so aggressive during 

mating season that they’ll kill each other.” 

This wild behavior does nothing to 

diminish her obvious affection for her 

eighty permanent residents. Later on, as 

she reached her hand through the fence 

to groom a bottle-fed elk named J.J., she 

explained that she loves nearly every 

aspect of raising elk for meat. “There’s not 

a day I don’t pull into the driveway and say, 

‘Thank you, God.’” 

She used to pass by the ranch on 

her frequent walks around town and 

think, “Please God, one day can I have 

a property like that?” When a 

for-sale sign showed up, she 

mentioned it to her husband, 


farm to table 

who suggested they make a low-ball bid. 

It was accepted, and they soon moved 

there with their four children. 

The family initially kept cows in order 

to retain their ranching rights, but Ross 

knew that wasn’t what she wanted to do 

long term. In fact, every suggestion from 

others seemed wrong. 

Then one day her youngest daughter 

got sick and refused to do anything but 

snuggle. Never one to just sit and watch 

TV, Ross resigned herself to turning on 

the Discovery Channel. It was showing 

a program on elk ranching, and almost 

instantly she knew she’d found her calling. 

To decrease the chances of crossbreeding 

or spreading disease to wild elk, 

the Oregon Fish and Wildlife Department 

issues fewer than a dozen permits for elk 

ranching. All of them were taken when 

Ross inquired about them. So she started 

calling permit-holders to see if they were 

thinking of leaving the business. 

Eventually she reached a gentleman who 

was dying of cancer. He was willing to sell on 

one condition. “He told me, “I have a bottleraised 

elk I dearly love. If I sell you my farm, 

can she live out her life?’” Ross 


farm to table 

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP A male elk, freshly deantlered, 

bugles. A Patagonian cavy enjoys the sun. 

Petunia the pig strolls through petting zoo yard. A 

billy goat approaches the camera. 

assured him she would honor his request. Soon afterward, she had her first 

herd of elk. 

Managing elk is a far cry from keeping more domesticated animals like 

pigs or sheep. They can weigh in excess of 950 pounds, and they’ll attack 

anything they perceive as a threat. Ross stays out of her fields unless an elk 

needs assistance. When she must enter the pen, she uses a tractor to herd 

the elk into a confinement chute. She’s had a few close calls in the twelve 

years she’s been raising them. But she’s never regretted her decision. 

Ross slaughters twenty to thirty young elk per year. Each animal weighs 

between 400 to 450 pounds when it goes to the butcher and yields about 

200 pounds of meat. Ross takes orders for meat beginning in May and 

often sells out within a day. 

The family keeps some of the meat, and Ross holds on to the antlers so 

she can make jewelry and dog chews. Multiple racks also hang in her barn, 

an homage to the animals she loves and a reminder to frequent visitors that 

although these animals may look friendly, appearances can be deceiving. 

Elk ranching isn’t a big business in Oregon, but it does fill an important 

niche. Selling wild game meat is illegal. Anyone who wants elk but 

doesn’t hunt has to buy it from someone who ranches. According to 

Michelle Dennehy, wildlife communications coordinator for the Oregon 

Department of Fish and Wildlife, there are nine commercial elk farms with 

about 320 animals. 

Game meat can be hard to cook, so there are a few things to keep in 

mind when preparing it. The meat only contains about 1 percent fat, so 

Ross advises cooking it in something moist, such as chili or gravy. 

Game will quickly become tough if it’s overcooked. Keep elk extremely 

rare by using it in cold-smoked tartare from chef Jacob Way at The Barberry 

in McMinnville. A mustard seed sauce gives it some extra kick. 

Ross likes ground elk because it’s so versatile. Try it in hamburgers topped 

with a blueberry and fig compote with the recipe from Dick’s Kitchen in 

Portland. 

Chef Scott Dolich with Portland’s Park Kitchen uses sweet and savory 

ingredients in cocoa-braised elk shoulder. Serve it with sides of braised red 

cabbage and horseradish sour cream for a warming winter meal. 


B I S T R O 

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bridgewaterbistro.com • 20 basin street, astoria or • on the river

farm to table 

Cocoa-braised Elk Shoulder 

with Red Cabbage and Horseradish Cream 

PORTLAND / Park Kitchen 

SERVES 12 

Oregon Recipes 

Discovering Elk Flavors 

FOR ELK 

3 tablespoons canola oil 

5 pounds elk shoulder, bone 

out and cleaned of silver 

skin, cut into 1-inch chunks 

2 red onions, julienned 

1 carrot, chopped 

2 stalks celery, chopped 

½ cup cocoa powder 

1 cup bittersweet chocolate 

chips 

2 cups red wine 

1 cup ruby port 

10 ounces crushed whole 

tomatoes 

1 tablespoon salt 

12 black peppercorns 

5 bay leaves 

2 quarts meat stock 

FOR HORSERADISH CREAM 

1 cup sour cream 

2 tablespoons prepared 

horseradish 

½ teaspoon salt 

FOR BRAISED RED CABBAGE 

1 head red cabbage, 

julienned 

1 cup red wine 

1 cup meat stock 

1 tablespoon sweet paprika 

2 teaspoons salt 

2 tablespoons butter 

Blueberry-Fig Chutney for Elk 

PORTLAND / Dick’s Kitchen 

YIELDS 16 OUNCES 

1 cup sherry, preferably Amontillado 

1 bay leaf 

1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, or 1 tablespoon dry 

5 juniper berries (lightly tap with a spoon or side of knife 

to crack) 

½ cup water 

1 pound fresh or frozen huckleberries or blueberries 

4 ounces dry calmyrna figs, stems removed and chopped 

by hand or food processor 

½ teaspoon sea salt 

Place sherry, bay leaf, rosemary, juniper berries and water in a 

small pot, bring to boil and lower to a simmer. When the mixture 

is reduced by half, strain and reserve liquid. Discard the aromatics 

and return the liquid to the pot with berries, figs and sea salt. 

Simmer, folding ingredients together in the pot. The berries will 

release liquid. Continue cooking at a low simmer until the liquid 

becomes syrupy. Let cool and refrigerate, then serve warm over 

elk burger patties or other game. 

FOR ELK 

Season the cubed elk meat well with salt and pepper. In a 

large stainless steel pan, heat the oil and brown the elk on 

all sides and place in braising pan. In the same pan add the 

onions, celery, carrots and lightly caramelized. Add the port 

and red wine, reduce by one half. 

Add the remaining ingredients and bring to a boil, then pour 

over the seared elk in the braising pan. Cover the braising pan 

with a lid and braise at 300 degrees for three to four hours. 

The elk, when cooked properly, should be yieldingly tender to 

the touch. Cool to room temperature, remove the cooked elk 

and reserve. 

Puree the braising liquid and vegetables, or alternatively, 

pass braising liquid through a fine mesh strainer. Chill 

and reserve. 

FOR HORSERADISH CREAM 

In a stainless bowl mix 1 cup sour cream, 2 tablespoons 

prepared horseradish and ½ teaspoon salt. 

FOR BRAISED RED CABBAGE 

Put all ingredients into a medium-sized stainless steel pot 

with a lid. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for about 40 

minutes. The end product should be fairly sauce-y. 

TO SERVE 

Put warm cabbage on the plate and spread it out. Add a 

few chunks of warm braised elk to the plate and top with 

horseradish cream. 

Find additional recipes at 1859oregonmagazine.com/recipes 


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farm to table 

Home Grown Chef 

Confessions of an Elkaholic 

written by Thor Erickson 

photography by Jenn Redd 

I AM NOT A HUNTER. As a butcher and chef, I am a 

friend to the hunter. 

I have a special appreciation for hunters who eat what 

they kill, and learn to be stewards for these animals and 

their habitats. My friend Greg is one such person. 

He is a die-hard elk hunter. He grew up in Tillamook, 

hunting the Roosevelt elk that roam the Coast Range. In 

Central Oregon, Greg hunts the Rocky Mountain variety. 

The two differ slightly in physiology, but the meat of each 

animal is equally delicious. 

Early one evening a few years back, I was finishing 

cleaning my kitchen, just getting ready to turn out the 

lights and start my weekend, when Greg rushed in. His 

wiry frame—seemingly made of jerky and twine—was 

decked out in full camouflage, and he was jumping up 

and down. The wildly excited expression on his tanned (or 

dirty) face was peculiar. 

"Come out to my truck!" Greg said with a big, chippedtooth 

grin. 

We walked outside to Greg's rig to find a sizable buck 

that Greg had killed, shot with an arrow through its 

chest. At that moment, I knew how I would be spending 

my weekend. 

"Let's butcher it," he said—the hunter’s code for “Will 

you please butcher my elk for me?” 

After figuring out how to move the 500-plus pound 

buck into my kitchen, I started the process, hanging the 

carcass by its hind legs and skinning it, then letting it hang 

in the walk-in refrigerator overnight. 

The next morning, I made quick work of butchering. 

An elk is somewhere between beef and lamb in terms of 

butchery. The meat is a beautiful blood-red color with an 

outstanding flavor. 

The term "you are what you eat" is evident when tasting 

a wild game animal such as this one, which had spent 

its life foraging its food from the forests of the Cascade 

Range. While I wielded my cleaver, carving out thick cuts 

from this healthy specimen, Greg and I talked about how 

he should prepare it. 

"Maybe grind some of the shoulder for burgers?” 

he asked. 

I agreed. Just like other animals, the elk uses the shoulder 

and leg muscles more, and so those require long, slow 

cooking, or grinding to make them more tender. 

When we were finished, Greg presented me with my 

payment—an elk loin, or “backstrap” as some call it. I 

took it home and prepared it that evening, using Oregon 

ingredients perfectly suited to such a fine animal. 


farm to table 

Peppered Elk Backstrap with Oregon Pinot 

Noir Huckleberry Sauce 

Thor Erickson 

SERVES 4 

FOR THE ELK 

1 elk backstrap, trimmed of fat and silverskin, 

about 12 ounces 

4 tablespoons vegetable oil 

2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme 

1 teaspoon coarsely cracked black peppercorns 

¾ teaspoon Kosher salt 

Rub the elk with 2 tablespoons oil, thyme, peppercorns 

and salt. Let stand for 1 hour at room temperature. 

Preheat oven to 500 degrees. Heat a large, 

ovenproof skillet on high, then add the rest of the 

oil. When the oil is almost smoking, add the elk 

and sear on all sides, about 2 minutes total, then 

transfer the skillet to the oven and roast the elk 

until the internal temperature reaches 120 degrees 

(for medium rare), 5 to 6 minutes. Let rest for 5 

minutes before carving. 

FOR THE SAUCE 

3 tablespoons vegetable oil 

½ large yellow onion, coarsely chopped 

1 celery rib, coarsely chopped 

2 carrots, coarsely chopped 

½ Granny Smith apple, diced (no need to core) 

1 cup Oregon pinot noir 

½ cup ruby port 

3 cups chicken stock 

1 sprig fresh thyme 

½ cup plus 2 tablespoons fresh or frozen 

Oregon huckleberries 

Heat the oil in a 4-quart saucepan on high.2. Add 

onion, celery, carrots and apple. Sauté over high 

heat, stirring often, until the vegetables caramelize 

slightly, about 10 to 15 minutes. 

Add the Oregon pinot noir and port. Simmer 

briskly until reduced to a syrup, about 15 minutes. 

Add the chicken stock, thyme and ½ cup 

huckleberries. Simmer until reduced to a sauce 

consistency, about 30 minutes. 

Strain through a fine sieve, pressing on the solids. 

You should have about ½ cup sauce. Return the 

sauce to a small saucepan and add the remaining 2 

tablespoons huckleberries. 

TO SERVE 

Slice the elk about ¼-inch thick. Arrange the elk 

on dinner plates and spoon the sauce around it, not 

over it. 


home + design 

Twentieth Century Revival 

Sweat equity turns some of Ashland’s plainest 

old houses into valuable modern gems 

ASHLAND IS KNOWN FOR its cuddly 

cuteness, with its boutique downtown area 

and charming Victorian houses set in leafy 

historic districts. 

But like many American towns, Ashland 

went through the building boom of the 1960s, 

’70s, and ’80s, which saw many small ranch and 

other plain “builder-type” houses constructed 

in response to growing demand. 

Today, these homes are undergoing a creative 

renaissance, as energetic do-it-yourselfers 

are buying these affordable residences and 

transforming them with inventive style and 

artistic sensibilities. 

Not only that, those houses have turned out 

to be the hottest-selling type of residential real 

written by John Riha 

photography by Bill Purcell 

estate in southern Oregon, helping fuel a 

resurgence in housing value and overcoming 

the general real estate face plant of 2008-09. 

According to Zillow.com, Ashland’s housing 

value has soared 13.9 percent in the last 

year, outpacing Bend, Portland, Eugene and 

nearby Medford. 

“Those types of houses are definitely in the 

sweet spot,” said Marie Lange, a real estate 

agent in the Rogue Valley since 1988 and 

owner of Ashland Homes Real Estate. “They’re 

simpler, a lot easier to remodel, and many 

are single-level, all of which is very attractive 

to prospective buyers. Plus, they’re relatively 

affordable compared to the overall market, so 

remodeling them is a very good investment.” 

Ashland is filled with small 

ranch homes that are getting 

ellaborate remodels. 


©2016 California Closet Company, Inc. All rights reserved. Each franchise independently owned and operated. 203209 

Experience a California Closets system custom designed specifically for you and the way you live. 

Visit us online today to arrange for a complimentary in-home design consultation. 

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home + design 

CALL IN 

THE CHIEF 

KEN AND HEIDI LEISERSON MOVED 

to Ashland to be closer to family, trading 

out their two-bedroom condo in the Bay 

Area for some elbow and breathing room for 

themselves and their two boys. They bought 

a 1980s-era, 1,500-square-foot house high up 

in the Ashland hills with an expansive view 

of the Bear Creek Valley and “a poor layout, 

a terrible flow, a tiny kitchen, and tight square 

footage,” Ken Leiserson said. 

No matter. Even though the Leisersons 

didn’t have remodeling experience, they 

had the location of their dreams and double 

fistfuls of determination. After an unsatisfying 

experience consulting with an architect, Ken 

bought the architectural design software 

Chief Architect, spent a few days mastering 

the program, and began to translate their 

dreams into workable drawings that he could 

hand off to a subcontractor. 

“Three-D rendering was really helpful 

when it came to Heidi and myself talking 

through changes,” Leiserson said. “We both 

could visualize what was possible.” 

The first objective was to create better flow. 

Because the house was sited on the downside 

of a steep lot, the existing split level floor 

plan meant an awkward, perilous transition 

of eighteen steps from street-level parking 

down to the entry, then back up through an 

awkward landing. Leiserson’s plan expanded 

the house toward the street as much as local 

codes would allow, cutting the elevation 

difference and creating an entry that opened 

directly into the main living area. 

“We ended up adding about 650 square 

feet,” Leiserson said, “but it felt so much 

bigger because the flow was so much 

better.” And practical, too. The original twobedroom, 

bath-and-a-half accommodations 

were transformed into three bedrooms and 

two-and-a-half baths, plenty of living area 

for a growing family. The tiny “one-person” 

kitchen morphed into an open floor plan 

featuring a 400-square-foot kitchen/dining/ 

living room. Thankfully, the Leisersons 

included a “more public” powder room in 

the design; previously, guests had to trek 

through the master bedroom to access a 

smallish bathroom. 

If inside was transformative, the exterior 

became transcendental. Two tiny decks were 

reimagined as a complete wraparound deck 

FROM TOP Leiserson's 

remodeled kitchen 

features an open floor 

plan. A wraparound deck is 

accessible to living areas. 

that looked out over the valley and were 

accessible from all the living areas. Ken added 

a concrete walkway in the front of the house 

with a Fibonacci spiral made of stone and 

cement, installed the decking with hidden 

screw fasteners, and designed privacy screens 

that frame the views. Curbside plantings and 

a Corten steel planter incised with the street 

number are eye-catching finishing touches. 

Leiserson also chipped in a lot of the handson 

labor, keeping the job site clean, and doing 

much of the heavy lifting for landscaping 

projects, including creating retaining walls to 

terrace the steep lot. 

“I was low man on the totem pole, but I 

think I ended up doing really well,” Leiserson 

said of his contributions. “Okay, maybe not 

‘really well,’ but really cheaply for sure.” 


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home + design 

NO EXPERIENCE 

NECESSARY 

Amanda Zundel and her son, Teddy, in 

the newly remodeled kitchen. 

The ink had hardly dried on the 

contract before Brett and Amanda 

Zundel were removing old cabinets and 

sledgehammering drywall in their newly 

purchased, 800-square-foot bungalow. 

“We got the keys,” Amanda said, “and 

literally within ten minutes we were tearing 

out stuff.” 

The 50-year-old house might have been 

small, but the Zundels had big dreams and 

a surfeit of sweat equity they were willing to 

invest. Why this house and not something 

better suited to a young couple planning to 

have a family? 

“Simple,” Brett said. “It was one of the 

three cheapest houses in Ashland.” 

First objective: keep the existing 

footprint but remove walls to open up the 

constricting galley kitchen, then focus on 

converting the garage to a master bedroom 

and office. The couple replaced plumbing 

and electrical systems, and tore out an old 

fireplace. That’s where they encountered 

the “Mystery of the Bees.” 

“After we started ripping into walls, every 

day we’d find hundreds of dead bees,” Andrea 

said. Vacuuming up the little carcasses 

proved to be a temporary fix—the next day 

there would be hundreds more. Eventually, 

an exterminator was called in to remove an 

enormous colony that had established itself in 

the stud walls. 

With phase one of their remodeling 

complete, the Zundels were ready for Phase 

Two of their five-year plan—selling the 

bungalow and moving into another, larger 

house. But circumstances said otherwise. 

“We kept having babies,” Andrea laughed. 

Two girls, Scout and Piper, were followed by 

a boy, Teddy. With a rambunctious crew on 

their hands, Brett and Andrea began to look 

more favorably on their existing location and 

their spacious backyard. 

“We just loved where we lived,” Andrea said. 

Plus, the real estate market had boomeranged 

to the point where move-up houses were 

getting out of reach. 

“We had done so much good work on the 

house that a Realtor friend of ours suggested 

that we’d be better off financially just staying 

put,” Brett said. “We could get a larger house 

or a better house, but not both.” 

So phase two kicked in with another 

kitchen enlargement, a new garage, a 

refined master suite, a retooled entry and 

a 250-square-foot studio in the backyard. 

Vaulting the living room ceiling added a 

breath of fresh air to the interiors. 

“The house really matches how we 

live,” Brett said of their gradual, multi-year 

expansion to 1,700 square feet. “There’s a lot 

more breathing room and no wasted space.” 

As novice DIYers, the Zundels had little 

experience but plenty of good help. Brett’s 

dad and uncle pitched in, and his grandma—a 

knowledgeable house flipper—contributed 

recommendations for skilled handymen 

whenever needed. 

“I will say that Brett’s carpentry skills 

improved 1,000 percent over the course of the 

remodeling,” Andrea said. 

“When we started, I knew nothing 

about remodeling,” Brett confessed. “But 

circumstances sort of forced us to believe we 

could pull it off, and we did.” 


home + design 

DIY: Picket Fence 

Personalize your outdoor area 

SIMPLE BUT DIFFERENT, this fun fence uses traditional design in an unusual way, with classic pickets 

of varying lengths attached in a random pattern. Passersby say it looks like musical notes on a scale. 

1 

2 

SET UP POSTS 

Install 4x4-inch pressure-treated posts rated for 

ground contact every 10 feet along the fence line, 

and level posts. 

ADD RAILS 

Add three rails made of pressure-treated 2x4s 

spaced 14 inches apart on-center. Three rails 

ensures the pickets won’t warp. Rip the middle 

rail down to 2½ inches wide to keep the rail 

system from looking too clunky. 

CUT PICKETS 

Cut 2x2-inch cedar pickets to three random 

lengths. This fence mixed 38-, 40-, and 42- 

inch pickets. 

4 

5 

BEVEL 

Bevel the top ends of each picket to help 

shed rain. 

STAIN 

Pre-finish the posts, rails, and pickets with a 

good quality exterior stain. 

INSTALL PICKETS 

Install the pickets 1½ to 2 inches apart (or 

whatever distance looks good) using 2½ inch 

galvanized finish nails—an air nail gun is ideal. 

Randomly vary the picket heights. 


Illustration by Allison Bye

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home + design 

Give New Life to Old Houses 

Superior craftsmanship 

distinguishes windows and 

doors from Hammer & Hand 

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carpenters to fashion windows 

and doors of exacting dimensions 

and energy-efficient performance 

that meets strict Passive House 

standards. Matching historical 

architectural styles is secondnature 

at Hammer & Hand. 

hammerandhand.com 

A touch-activated kitchen faucet is 

techie-cool. You can hold a colander 

full of pasta with both hands and turn 

your faucet on with an elbow or even 

your forehead. Styles abound, and 

finding a match for your Internationalor 

Queen Anne-style house is easypeasy. 

Models like the Artesso series 

from Brizo hint at classic styling from 

the late nineteenth century. 

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PentalQuartz is one of the latest 

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mind + body 

Flying High 

University of Oregon’s acrobatics & 

tumbling team reaches new heights 


photos courtesy of UO Athletics 

Cross serves as a platform for one of her 

teammates during a meet. 

TAKE CHEERLEADING AND ADD gymnastics. 

Now, get rid of the smiles and the skirts and the hair 

bows. That’s acrobatics and tumbling, and that’s the 

sport University of Oregon senior Alexis Cross is 

proud to be a part of. 

Considered an “emerging sport” by the NCAA but 

currently governed by an outside association and in 

talks to become an official NCAA-sanctioned sport, 

acro/tumbling is no joke. 

“We get rid of all the glitz and the glam of 

cheerleading and the leotards and hair bows of 

gymnastics,” she said. What’s left is the stunting part 

of cheer and the tumbling portion of gymnastics. 

The sport was created fairly recently, and only a 

handful of universities have teams. Oregon has been 

to the national championship four years straight— 

winning in 2014 and getting runner-up in 2015, 2016 

and 2017. 

“Everything we do has point values, and our scores 

are based 100 percent on execution,” Cross said. “It’s 

not subjective. In cheerleading you can get subjective 

scores based on how someone liked the routine, how 

popular the team is, whether the team has a couple 

superstars, the flair that goes with it. This is very 

much execution-based.” 

Cross said the sport was designed by women to give 

female athletes more opportunities to compete—and 

that’s what she likes about it. Cross’s background is 

in competitive cheer, though she also played soccer 

in high school. In fact, “I drove to Portland—two 

hours, three days a week—to practice competitive 

cheerleading,” she said. “I would say those practices 

were two to three times harder than soccer was.” 

When she arrived at the University of Oregon, she 

was moved by the respect the acro/tumbling team 

receives. “We are treated like every other athlete 

here,” she said. “Growing up as a kid I would say, ‘I do 

cheerleading,’ and people would tell me, ‘That’s not 

a sport.’ I definitely understand people’s arguments, 

but it was disheartening.” 

There are no men in this sport. It’s women only, 

tossing other women through the air, flipping through 

tumbling passes and building elaborate pyramids. 

The team practices three hours a day, plus weightlifting 

and running daily. Practices in the preseason 

involve a lot of basics, as well as learning new 

skills—and that means a lot of falling. 

“It’s definitely scary to try at first,” Cross said. 

“You’re up 10 to 15 feet in the air, free falling. … It’s 

very much a mental thing going into those tosses. 

You have to be willing to go for it, and go for it 100 

percent because going halfway just doesn’t work 

very well. 

“You also have to be willing to fall. That was 

something I didn’t expect, to fall as much as I do. 

It’s kind of a cool position to be in now though—my 

fear has diminished and it’s just like, ‘Here we go.’” 

Each head-to-head competition features 

six events, with several heats in each event— 

compulsory, in which each team demonstrates the 

same skills; acrobatics; pyramid; tosses; tumbling, 

and a team routine. 

The team routine is the hardest: “That’s full-out 

two minutes and thirty seconds of everything all put 

together to music,” she said. “It’s so fast-paced. It’s like 

the equivalent of Olympic lifting and then running.” 

With forty-three team members, different athletes 

participate in different parts of the meet. 

One of the biggest challenges for Cross is staying 

healthy. The impact on a tumbler’s joints is significant. 

“I highly value the athletic medicine staff,” she said. 

“We have a graduate assistant trainer just with our 

team and we always say they save lives. I’m in there 

probably two hours before practice every day to roll 

out, get treatment for anything that’s hurting, do rehab. 

You just have to be committed to physically caring for 

your body even if it doesn’t hurt, taking precautions 

and preventive measures.” 

Plus, Cross gets really hungry during the season. She 

focuses on getting protein in every meal and staying 

away from processed foods. More than anything, 

though “the main thing I notice is the quantity of food 

I eat. I find myself being hungry a lot.” 

And Cross is hungry for more—this year, she said, 

she’s hopeful her team will have a better showing at 

the national championship. “We can finally bring it 

back home.” 


mind + body 

WORKOUT 

INSPIRATION 

NUTRITION 

An average training 

day includes a one 

hour weights session, 

a fifteen to thirty 

minutes of cardio 

exercise, and a 

three-hour practice 

consisting of tumbling 

conditioning and acro 

repetition. 

Trust is a big part of 

our sport. We literally 

put our lives in one 

another’s hands 

every single day, so 

it becomes second 

nature. It’s easy to 

continue working 

hard because I trust 

that my teammates 

are doing the same, 

and not working 

hard would be letting 

them down. 

My favorite foods 

include avocado, 

cereal and Cafe 

Yumm. During season, 

I don’t necessarily eat 

anything special, but 

tend to be hungry 

all the time so the 

quantity increases. 


artist in residence 

The Science of Art 

Sienna Morris changes the meaning 

of paint by number 

written by Amy Korst 

photography by Peter Mahar 

ILLUSTRATOR SIENNA MORRIS has 

designed a home and workshop in Portland 

so reflective of her style that it’s difficult to 

tell where she ends and her art begins. Art 

pours out of two upstairs rooms in her 

Portland home, and her basement serves as 

a workshop for stretching canvas, printing 

illustrations, and carefully packaging 

paintings and drawings for shipment to 

faraway places. 

“You find art in the body and unexpected 

places,” Morris said, explaining her 

unquenchable sense of wonder and neverending 

exploration of science and the 

natural world. 

She serves tea on brain coasters while 

her tuxedo cat, Mr. Moore, wanders 

among the treasures collected in a room 

that is part scientific laboratory and part 

artist’s studio. A mini fridge of mammalian 

eyeballs waits in one corner next to her 

two microscopes, affectionately known as 

Kirk and Dune. A locked plexiglass case 

contains specimens Morris will study 

further, including several vertebrae from 

an animal skeleton she found on a recent 

hike. She stacks finished artwork along 

the wall, including illustrations selling for 

thousands of dollars. 

Her work in progress dominates one side 

of the studio, a depiction of the jellyfish 

species Pelagio noctiluca, or deep sea 

night light. This artwork—part painting, 

part drawing, part something 

else entirely—depicts a jellyfish 

floating against a background of 



FROM LEFT Sienna Morris poses in her studio. 

Morris’ jellyfish piece, titled “Noctiluca”. 

blues and purples, a sea creature caught inside the 

shifting clouds of an outer space nebula. Beneath 

a black light, the jellyfish glows, thanks to Morris’s 

use of pearlescent ink, an effect that cleverly 

mimics the jellyfish’s natural bioluminescence. 

What makes Morris’s art so unique is her 

technique, which she has dubbed “numberism” 

(a play on pointillism, a technique of painting in 

minute dots). Instead of drawing in dots, Morris’s 

numberism pieces are created from tiny numbers 

repeated over and over. Sometimes, the numbers 

are so small and tightly packed together it’s hard 

to tell they are actually there at all without the use 

of a magnifying glass. 

Morris creates her pieces using the tiniest 

imaginable blades to etch numbers into 

scratchboard, or particleboard covered in white 

China clay that is then painted over with black 

India ink. Once her images are etched into the 

scratchboard, she uses a combination of artistic 

techniques to add color and texture to her images. 

The numbers Morris uses in her art relate 

in some way to the subject she is depicting. 

For example, the jellyfish is drawn with the 

chemical formula for luciferin, what makes them 

bioluminescent. 

Morris created numberism during a time of 

reinvention in her life. She had just moved back to 

the United States from China after a multimedia 

company she had a part in creating failed. “I felt 

like a complete failure and that all my choices had 

been wrong, and I had no faith in myself,” she said. 

“I felt defeated.” 

At a time of great anxiety and personal 

upheaval, Morris began drawing with the 

numbers on the clock, trying to capture the 

forward march of time. “I understood I needed 

to be present, but I didn’t know how to do it, so I 

drew these moments,” she explained. 

And like the proverbial phoenix rising from 

the ashes, Morris successfully reinvented herself, 

drawing images for herself instead of for others. 

Her first numberism piece is called “Falling To 

Pieces,” and it depicts the moment just 

before a kiss, two pairs of lips a whisper 

away from each other. 



“Very rarely have I 

put something under 

this microscope 

that hasn’t been 

beautiful, that hasn’t 

given me perspective 

that I couldn’t have 

gotten elsewhere.” 

—Sienna Morris 

Morris often uses a 

magnifying glass to see 

tiny details she is drawing. 

“That was to capture how a 

moment actually felt, which is like 

a breath,” she said. “I imagine the 

feeling is like holding sand that’s 

falling through your hand.” 

Morris drew with the numbers on 

the clock for two years, capturing 

those ephemeral moments, before 

turning to the world of math 

and science for new numberism 

inspiration. Morris, who has very 

little formal art training and no 

background in science, is selftaught 

and follows her passions 

wherever they take her. She is 

particularly fascinated by the brain 

and linguistics, evidence of which 

is scattered throughout her home, 

as her bookshelves are filled with 

science textbooks and her compound 

microscope cradles a glass slide of 

motor nerve cells. 

“Very rarely have I put something 

under this microscope that hasn’t 

been inspiring, that hasn’t been 

beautiful, that hasn’t given me 

perspective that I couldn’t have 

gotten elsewhere,” Morris said. 

In various pieces, Morris has used 

the chemical formula for oxytocin, 

the standing wave pattern of a single 

plucked cello string, and the Fibonacci 

sequence. One of her favorite pieces 

hangs on her living room wall, 

titled “Corvus Callosum,” depicting 

a crow perched on a walnut, atop a 

background of a pyramid neuron. 

Morris comes from a family of 

artists and decided at age 7 to become 

an artist herself. She reaffirmed this 

choice in early adulthood 

when she took the leap 

of moving to Portland, a 



FROM TOP A peek with a black light shows the hidden inks Morris often uses in her paintings. 

Morris uses found objects such as moss to create natural textures within her work. 

community notoriously friendly to the arts, to 

pursue her calling. 

“I decided to make it as an artist or else,” she 

said. “And or else meant eating ramen and peanut 

butter or being late on rent for months at a time.” 

Today, she runs her business, Fleeting States, 

out of her Portland home. She can be found at 

the Portland Saturday Market in booth 904 from 

March to December. 

To see more of Morris’ artwork, go to fleetingstates.com 


Travis Ralls 

STARTUP 66 

WHAT’S GOING UP 70 

WHAT I’M WORKING ON 72 

MY WORKSPACE 74 

GAME CHANGER 76 

pg. 66 

Barley Buck uses beer’s byproduct to create deer feed.

Winter in 

Walla Walla? 

Naturally. 

Far away from the gray and dreary winter 

skies of Western Washington, Walla Walla’s 

sunny and temperate climate invites travelers 

to cozy up and enjoy experiences that are 

impossible to find in any other season. 

Whether you’re in the mood to explore Walla 

Walla’s 120+ wineries, feast on a farm-totable 

culinary experience, immerse yourself 

in Northwest history, enjoy a romantic 

weekend spent by the fire, or treat the family 

to a small-town celebration of the holiday 

season, a perfect winter trip awaits. 

Frequent visitors to Washington’s most 

popular wine region know that wintertime 

is full of hidden gems. With the summer 

crowds long gone, and the fall harvest complete, 

the area’s renowned winemakers and 

chefs have the luxury to engage with their 

visitors. 

The crisp, cool air combined with bright 

sun invigorates frequenters of the many 

cafés, tasting rooms, galleries, bistros, bars, 

and boutiques, which become all the more 

charming. With winter comes new opportunities, 

too. Speed down the slopes of nearby 

Ski Bluewood or sled down the hills of the 

Blue Mountains. 

“Our visitors have learned that winter is 

one of the premier times to experience 

Walla Walla,” said Ron Williams, executive 

director of Visit Walla Walla. “Whether interested 

in the revelry of the holiday season, 

outdoor winter sports, fun foodie events, or 

simply enjoying Walla Walla’s wine country 

without the crowds, the winter months have 

so much to offer.” 

Winemakers usher in the holiday season 

with Holiday Barrel Weekend, set for Dec. 

1-3, by providing samples of future releases 

straight from the barrel. And the first Saturday 

of December belongs to the Macy’s 

Holiday Parade of Lights. 

OX & CART 

Visitors also have the opportunity to traverse 

Ski Bluewood’s acres of skiable terrain 

– known for having the driest snow and 

sunniest conditions in the state – or explore 

the surrounding hills on a sled, cross-country 

skis, or snowshoes. Then settle into an evening 

of world-class local wine and culinary 

treats downtown, or enrich your senses with 

the Walla Walla Chamber Music Winter 

Festival, a Walla Walla Symphony concert, 

or a performance at the Gesa Power House 

Theatre. Sapolil Cellars, Kontos, Marcy’s 

Bar, Sinclair Estates are just a few of the 

downtown venues that convert to after-hours 

music hotspots. 

The shortest month of the year is long on 

taste as the chefs of Walla Walla’s eclectic mix 

WALLA WALLA CHAMBER MUSIC FESTIVAL AT 

CHARLES SMITH WINES 

Holiday Barrel Weekend 

Dec. 1-3 

Macy’s Holiday Parade of Lights 

Dec. 2 

Walla Walla Symphony Series 

Dec 1-2, 20, Jan. 23, Feb. 11 

Walla Walla Chamber Music Festival 

Jan. 11-14 

February is for Foodies 

All February long 

of restaurants join forces for February is for 

Foodies. From incredible special menus to 

intimate cooking classes hosted by some of 

Walla Walla’s most renowned chefs, February 

is filled with fun culinary experiences. 

Explore the many tastes of 

Walla Walla and start planning 

your trip at wallawalla.org.

startup 

Barley Buck 

Using beer byproduct to feed deer 

written by Mackenzie Wilson 

photography by Travis Ralls 

100 percent of the barley grown and harvested 

on the farm never leaves until it’s a finished 

product, whether it’s for deer or beer. 

PEOPLE BUILD FENCES taller than most professional basketball 

players around their gardens in an effort to keep out high-jumping 

deer. The owner of Barley Buck, 31-year-old Travis Ralls, wants 

to give those determined deer something else to chew on besides 

azaleas—specialty deer feed high in protein, vitamins and amino 

acids. Barley Buck’s tagline is “Hunter Owned, Farmer Grown” 

Ralls has his hands in both. 

At an age when most kids were glued to the television watching 

Saturday morning cartoons, Ralls was obsessed with fishing and 

hunting shows. Growing up, he became an avid outdoorsman, and 

hunting and fishing transformed from hobbies to serious passions. 

Ralls studied video production at Southern Oregon University, and 

afterward, he landed a dream job as a videographer and producer 

for the Outdoor Channel. For six years, he traveled the world— 

one week he’d be shooting in New Zealand, the next in Africa or 

Canada. He gained experience in hunting and game management, 

but the tradeoff was he lived out of an old blue duffle bag. 

In 2010, his life on the move came to a screeching halt when he 

met his future wife on a blind date. “When I met Katie, I knew I 

wanted to have a family and come back home to Central Oregon,” 

Ralls said. “If I kept living that cameraman lifestyle, I wasn’t going 

to achieve those dreams.” It didn’t take any convincing for him 

to settle down in Central Oregon—he grew up in Redmond and 

Katie’s family had a century-old farm in Madras, where they were 

married in 2012. 

Carrot seed was the crop of choice on Katie’s family farm, but 

when it didn’t quite work with the crop rotation anymore, Ralls’ 

father-in-law, Brad Klaan, wanted to try something new. “My 

brother-in-law, Seth (Klann), is a big-time homebrewer, and 

he was looking at all the ingredients he used to make beer and 

thought, ‘Man, we could grow some of this stuff,’” Ralls said. Since 

Central Oregon is a craft beer mecca, the three decided to give 

growing barley a try. Now, more than a hundred craft beers are 

brewed using the Klaans’ Mecca Grade Estate Malt. 

Ralls isn’t involved in the day-in, day-out operations of Mecca 

Grade, but when he attended malting school in Canada with his 

in-laws, he had an aha moment. “During a portion of the classwork 

they talked about the byproduct of barley and how nutritious it is 

as a feed for cows and horses,” Ralls said. “I thought, ‘Sure would 

be great for deer to eat.’” 

The barley byproduct is what gets knocked off during 

the cleaning process. “It’s a product that’s not desirable 

to use in beer, but it’s still incredibly nutritious,” Ralls 

said. Combining his love for hunting with an underused 


FROM TOP On the family farm in Central 

Oregon. Ralls believes that practicing deer 

management is highly important and essential, 

while also using a product he believes in. 

resource, Ralls crafted a specialty 

feed for deer and no … it’s not bait. 

Anyone can use Barley Buck to feed 

deer, from people who love to watch 

them to outdoorsmen who care about 

the health of the deer population. 

“Most hunters are in it for the love of 

the animal more than anything,” Ralls 

said. “I think hunters are the best 

conservationists on the planet.” 

The feed is in granular form—a 

powdery substance that can be mixed 

with other feed or spread out on the 

ground by itself. Ralls compared it 

to giving the deer the equivalent of a 

protein shake. One sure sign the feed 

is working, Ralls said, is if a buck’s 

antlers reach their full potential 

in growth. “During drought years, 

sometimes you’ll see deer with smaller 

antlers, but if it’s a rainy season, with 

lots of feed in the mountains, the 

bucks will have larger antlers,” Ralls 

said. He’s had customers send him 

photos of deer and elk, “eating the 

feed like crazy.” 

Barley Buck uses the barley byproduct from Mecca Grade 

Estate Malt, but the companies are separate. Diving into new 

territory in an industry he’s been devoted to for decades is 

exciting, and although it’s a complete departure from his past life 

as a cameraman, he’s sold on his newfound career. “I wanted to 

be part of something bigger,” Ralls said. “And since I’m passionate 

about wildlife and conservation, turning something that wasn’t 

getting used into a nutritional feed for the deer is so satisfying.” 


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what’s going up? 

Mixed-Use 

Developments 

Housing and commerce, 

wrapped up in one building 


Hero Creative 

The Goat Blocks in Southeast Portland feature four apartment buildings with community spaces, rooftop decks and an array of businesses on the ground floor. 

PORTLAND 

The Goat Blocks, in Southeast 

Portland at 11th and Belmont, are 

so named for the goats the property 

owners hired a few years ago to 

clear the grass from the site. Today, 

the Goat Blocks is four apartment 

buildings with 347 apartments. The 

buildings have two rooftop decks, a 

pedestrian walkway and community 

spaces. On the ground floor is a 

Market of Choice, Orchard Supply 

Hardware, a cidery, coffee shop and 

two restaurants (one is a Chipotle). 

The project opened this spring. 

BEND 

Nowhere has growth been quite 

so explosive in Bend as in Northwest 

Crossing. Now, SunWest Builders 

has begun construction on the BLRB 

Architects-designed Fremont Row, a block 

of condominiums on top of storefronts, 

as well as a stand-alone restaurant. The 

restaurant, set to be 2,600 square feet, 

has not been leased yet. Five, two-story 

condominiums and one single-story 

condominium will be located on top of five 

retail spaces, and the design will feature 

setback upper stories. Two of the condos 

are slated to cost in the upper $600,000 

range, according to The Bulletin. 

The project is slated for completion in 

March 2018. 

EUGENE 

In South Eugene, a 120,000-squarefoot 

mixed-use apartment building 

will feature ground level retail and 

four floors of residential apartments 

above. The development, designed 

by Rowell Brokaw Architects, sits on 

the former site of a church and will 

also offer below-grade parking. Essex 

General Construction will oversee 

the project, which will feature 9,000 

square feet of retail space and 117 

apartments. 

The project broke ground in May. 


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what i’m working on 

Anais Ferot 

Exploding Targets 

Thomas Giachetti’s research 

may help the Pacific 

Northwest avoid a major 

volcanic catastrophe 

interview by Vanessa Salvia 

FOR UNIVERSITY OF OREGON 

volcanologist Thomas Giachetti, 

studying volcanoes is his dream job—a 

dream he’s held since he was 12 years 

old and watched a documentary on 

volcanologists in his native France. 

While he doesn’t get to perch on the 

edge of active volcanoes as much as 

his predecessors from decades ago, he 

gets close enough to realize how cool an 

eruption can be, and how much there is 

still to learn—especially in our volatile 

Pacific Northwest. 

Thomas Giachetti, with his colleague Tom Shea, does research at an old lava flow in Hawaii in December 2014. 

You’re studying magma degassing 

during volcanic eruptions. What 

does that mean? 

A volcano is similar to a soda bottle. 

You can’t see any gas bubbles in the 

soda bottle until you open it, which 

releases the pressure. If the pressure 

release is relatively slow the eruption 

may be gentle enough that you could 

get close to it and be fine. 

If the pressure releases too fast, the 

magma could explode in a Mount St. 

Helens-type eruption, for example. 

I’m currently looking at both the last 

eruption of Newberry Volcano in 

Oregon and that of Medicine Lake 

Volcano in California because they 

are very similar. Both experienced a 

transition from explosive to effusive 

eruption, and I’m trying to figure out 

how you can tell what type of eruption 

you’re going to get from the deposits 

they produced. 

How does your work intersect with 

the Pacific Northwest’s increased 

risk for seismic activity? 

Because the Juan de Fuca Plate is 

going under the North American 

Plate, that creates a lot of seismic and 

volcanic activity. You better know if 

an eruption will be gentle enough that 

you can watch it with your cameras or 

if it will it be big enough to shut down 

all aviation. 

How do you get your data? 

I first read what my colleagues have 

published. Then I take my shovels, 

pickaxe, hammer, GPS and camera to 

the field. I collect pounds and pounds 

of pumice and obsidian rock that I 

bring back to the laboratory. What 

most people don’t realize is that most 

of the time pumice and obsidian are 

exactly the same type of rock, except 

one erupted really explosively and 

the other one erupted effusively, like 

a lava flow. 

Are there any truly predictive events 

prior to an eruption? 

Not really. You might be able to say a 

few weeks or a few months in advance 

that something was going on. Most 

of the time you wouldn’t actually 

see anything, but the monitoring 

instruments would detect something. 

What’s next for volcanology? 

At the University of Oregon, Gwen and 

Chuck Lillis have committed $10 million 

to create the volcanic cluster, meaning 

we will hire more volcanologists and 

Eugene will be the place to be in the 

U.S. to study volcanoes. That is a game 

changer and is really exciting. 


DIGNITY 

Tribes in Transition 

An exhibition of portraits | Opens Oct 6 

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Samburu Women, Kenya, 1985 © Dana Gluckstein 

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My Workspace 

Anvil Academy 

Teaching at-risk youth 

some very old lessons 

written by Mark Stock 

photography by Joni Kabana 

Tucked away in an inconspicuous building 

on Main Street in Newberg is a small trade 

school bringing Wild West ingenuity back 

to the Willamette Valley. The Anvil Academy 

teaches at-risk youth the seemingly dated 

skills of stagecoach building, blacksmithing, 

jewelry making, leatherwork, metal spinning, 

woodturning and sewing. Classes in bow-making 

and the art of wheelwright are forthcoming. 

The Academy started in early 2016, but 

the impetus came much earlier. “Really, it 

started twenty years ago when I met a guy 

who came out of the highest level of the 

aerospace industry,” said Anvil co-owner 

and teacher Rob Lewis. “He said that the 

kids coming out of college could draw 

anything on a computer, but they had 

never drilled a hole in a piece of metal.” 

A student won Best in Show at the Oregon 

State Fair for his quarter-scale mud wagon. 

These smaller, lighter, open-sided stagecoaches 

took on bumpy backroads amid bad weather, 

able to zigzag up and down the many mountain 

ranges of the American West. 


Anvil’s coaches take about three months 

to build, on par with the factory-built 

versions during their heyday. Every April, 

the Academy hosts the largest horsedrawn 

vehicle auction on the West Coast at 

Yamhill County Fairgrounds, with proceeds 

benefiting youth education programs. 

Lewis said the kids are what keeps Anvil’s 

wheels rolling. “College is not for everyone, 

and a lot of kids have an aptitude for what 

we do, even though initially they have no 

idea they may be good at something.” 


game changer 

Net Margin 

Bringing quality seafood to the masses 

written by Viki Eierdam 

Jim Henkins 

IN 2013 JEFF WONG had a 

commercially licensed sport boat and 

a conundrum. 

He began analyzing the very 

disconnected process of selling seafood. 

He and his fellow fishermen were 

bringing back sushi-grade fish, selling 

it to commercial buyers who would 

then co-mingle their premium catch 

with multi-day fishers and bring up the 

average price. The issue: He wanted to 

earn a fair wage for his extra efforts, and 

he wanted to sell fish to his chef friends 

but could not guarantee the chain-ofcustody 

with the broken process. 

With a vision of highlighting 

sustainable fishing and education, 

Wong began using his own 24-foot, 

hand-built dory boat and Community 

Supported Fishery was born. Buying 

direct from a network of local 

fishermen, CS Fishery streamlines the 

distribution process, offers top dollar 

for the catch and delivers unbeatable 

seafood to consumers and select 

restaurants throughout the state. 

Wong continues to brainstorm 

ways to showcase CS Fishery seafood 

and bolster the businesses of his 

coastal neighbors in the process. For 

instance, some of the catch rides a 

bus. His Oregon Coast fish is the only 

non-passenger allowed aboard the 

Tillamook Bus bound for a handful of 

Portland-area restaurants. CS Fishery 

pays full-fare passenger pricing for each 

delivery to support the existing mode 

of transportation for this tightknit 

community. Not adding another vehicle 

to the road is also intentional. 

CS Fishery also supplies Source 

Oyster and Wine Bar in Garibaldi 

and its food truck, Local Fish. This 

intimate yet upscale spot features a 

small market in the front and table 

seating in the back. A broad selection 

of wines complements a simple, local 

menu including the Tillamook grilled 

cheese sandwich, albacore tuna melts, 

fish tacos and fresh oysters harvested 

daily from Netarts Bay. Other local 

purveyors, including Jacobsen Salt 

Company and Oregon Olive Mill, 

are showcased in the market and its 

fish preparations. 

Ocean-to-table seafood is the focus 

of Local Fish, the food truck. Fish tacos 

and fish bowls highlight CS Fishery 

and its farmers market neighbors. 

Local Fish makes appearances at three 

Tillamook coast farmers markets 

and in downtown Portland on a 

rotating schedule. 

Using the commercial kitchen 

at Wilson River School, CS Fishery 

soft-launched Source Fresh this past 

summer. A handful of students were 

employed to create high-end meal 

boxes that serve select vacation homes 

and private residences along the coast, 

from Cannon Beach to Pacific City. It’s 

Wong’s goal to design a formal school 

program that covers everything from 

order management to inventory control 

to cooking. 

Box options include fish tacos, 

barbeque with Nehalem River Ranch 

burgers and hot dogs and a breakfast 

box that includes farm fresh eggs 

and milk. Herbs and vegetables are 

also harvested from the Wilson River 

School community garden and area 

farmers markets. 

“If I can employ a local labor pool 

and spotlight more local suppliers,” 

Wong said, “I’ll know I’m on the 

right track.” 


CAN YOU 

BELIEVE 

WHAT YOU 

READ? 

Sources: 2016 Survey, Pew Research Center; GfK MRI, Spring 2016. 

MAGAZINE 

MEDIA 

Better. Believe It. 

With fake news leaving most Americans 

confused about even the basic facts, 

magazine media keeps it real. Whether in 

print, online, on mobile or video, people 

trust it to be expertly researched, written 

and fact-checked. No wonder magazine 

readers are more engaged and more likely 

to recommend advertised products. 

Being real matters. That’s a fact. 

#BelieveMagMedia | BelieveMagMedia.com

’S 

2017 

HOLIDAY 

GIFT 

GUIDE 


This year, our friend Lee Lewis Husk offered to host our office 

holiday gift exchange at her home in Bend. We seized the 

opportunity. Everyone had to bring one of their favorite Oregonmade 

gift ideas for exchange. Good friends. Good times. Cool stuff. 

Use our picks to inspire your holiday giving. 


We arrived at Lee’s 

house bearing gifts 

and ready to party! 

Lee had prepared a 

beautiful spread of 

local food and drinks 

for us to share.

2 

1 

3 

4

5 

FAR LEFT Oregon bounty is one of our favorite things, and 

the cook in your life would love an Oregon cookbook, such 

as, from top, The Myrtlewood Cookbook: Pacific NW Cooking, 

by Andrew Barton; Hello! My Name is Tasty, by John Gorham 

and Liz Crain; LURE: Sustainable Seafood Recipes from the 

West Coast, by Ned Bell; and Portland Cooks, by Danielle 

Centoni (powells.com/books). 

ABOVE Allison, Kelly and Sheila share a laugh and a glass of 

rosé while wearing Mitch Jewelry earrings (mitchjewelry.com). 

LEFT Fiona and Izzy enjoy a (nonalcoholic) glass of eggnog. 

1 The Myrtlewood Cookbook: Pacific NW Cooking, 

by Andrew Barton (powells.com/books) 

2 Hello! My Name is Tasty, by John Gorham 

and Liz Crain (powells.com/books) 

3 LURE: Sustainable Seafood Recipes from the 

West Coast, by Ned Bell (powells.com/books) 

4 Portland Cooks, by Danielle Centoni 

(powells.com/books) 

5 Mitch Jewelry earrings (mitchjewelry.com) 


1 

3 

2 

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Aesthete tea bags—shown here in Earl Grey and Vanilla Rooibos— 

are sure to heat up your stockings (aesthetetea.com). 

Bend-made Oregon Spirit Distillers’ Straight American Bourbon Whiskey is perfect if you need 

something a bit stronger (oregonspiritdistillers.com), and High-Proof PDX, by Karen Locke, is the 

go-to guide for Portland’s craft distilling scene (powells.com/books). 

For the coffee-lover in your life, Felipe the dog recommends an Aeropress coffee maker, a bag 

of Stumptown’s Hair Bender Roast and a mug (gift set available at stumptowncoffee.com). He’s 

wearing a chic black leather collar from Orox Leather Co. (oroxleather.com). 

1 Aesthete tea bags (aesthetetea.com) 

2 Oregon Spirit Distillers’ Straight American Bourbon 

Whiskey (oregonspiritdistillers.com) 

3 High-Proof PDX, by Karen Locke (powells.com/books) 

4 Aeropress coffee maker, bag of Stumptown’s Hair 

Bender Roast and mug (stumptowncoffee.com) 

5 Orox Leather Co. dog collar (oroxleather.com) 

5 

4

6 Pendleton Curtis Navajo blanket 

(lonecrowbungalow.com) 

7 Cowboy Cauldron (cowboycauldron.com) 

8 Packouz Jewelers gold and ruby ring and 

matching earrings (packouzjewelers.com) 

7 

8 

LEFT Kelly and Aaron ward against the chilly 

Central Oregon air with a Curtis Navajo blanket by Pendleton 

(lonecrowbungalow.com). They’ll be even warmer once they light 

the Cowboy Cauldron (cowboycauldron.com). 

ABOVE/BELOW Kevin surprised Sarah with a gold and ruby 

ring and matching earrings from Packouz Jewelers in Portland 

(packouzjewelers.com). 

6 


2 

1 

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT For the fan of statement jewelry, our very own webmaster designs these 

solid silver necklaces, which feature the interlocking letters of your family’s names (etsy.com/shop/ 

isaacpeterson), or try a pendant necklace and cuff bracelet from John Paul Designs (johnpauldesigns. 

com). 

Olio e Osso balms are great for preventing winter’s dry skin and lips (olioeosso.com), and Lava Love’s 

natural volcanic clay soap, face and body mask and bath powder will please the Oregonian in your life 

who really wants to get in touch with nature (lavalovebend.com). 

FAR RIGHT Zayev may be the cutest hat model ever—he sure makes dad Isaac proud (thisisfolklore.com). 

1 Family names solid silver necklace (etsy.com/shop/isaacpeterson) 

2 John Paul Designs pendant necklace and cuff bracelet 

(johnpauldesigns.com) 

3 Olio e Osso balms (olioeosso.com) 

4 Lava Love natural volcanic clay soap, face and body mask 

and bath powder (lavalovebend.com) 

5 Dress Western diamond pinch fedora (thisisfolklore.com) 

3 

4

5 


1 

2 

ABOVE The outdoors set will be very happy with tumblers and a growler from HydroFlask 

(hydroflask.com), as well as the bike basket and animal-themed drink cages from Portland Design 

Works (ridepdw.com)—adding 10 Barrel’s Pray for Snow winter ale is optional. 

RIGHT, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT A pint glass with Mt. Hood’s distinct peak hand-blown 

into the bottom? That’s about as Oregon as you can get (northdrinkware.com). Beware: Spills 

can happen at office holiday parties. Maybe this Portland Razor Company leather sharpening 

strap and The Sprite 2-inch straight razor will inspire Kevin to shave more often (portlandrazorco. 

com). Wool & Prince’s button-down gingham shirt adds a little class to a guy’s wardrobe 

(woolandprince.com). 

1 HydroFlask tumblers and growler (hydroflask.com) 

2 Portland Design Works bike basket and animal-themed drink 

cages (ridepdw.com) 

3 Mt. Hood pint glass from North Drinkware (northdrinkware.com) 

4 Portland Razor Company leather sharpening strap and 

The Sprite straight razor (portlandrazorco.com) 

5 Wool & Prince button-down gingham shirt (woolandprince.com) 


3 

5 4 


2 

1 


3 

5 

LEFT Jasper the dog was growing tired, 

so he grabbed his Ruffwear Gnawt-astick 

chew toy (ruffwear.com) and settled 

in for the evening on his Pendleton 

Crater Lake National Park small dog bed 

(pendleton-usa.com). 

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT Brooke’s 

alpine pack and Allison’s modern school 

pack from LINK Leather Goods were 

big hits (linkleathergoods.com), while, by 

serendipity, Kelly’s leather and fur clutch 

from Riley and Vine Handbags matched 

her outfit (rileyandvine.com). 

1 Ruffwear Gnawt-a-stick chew toy 

(ruffwear.com) 

2 Pendleton Crater Lake National Park 

small dog bed (pendleton-usa.com) 

3 LINK Leather Goods alpine pack 

(linkleathergoods.com) 

4 LINK Leather Goods modern school 

pack (linkleathergoods.com) 

5 Riley and Vine Handbags leather and 

fur clutch (rileyandvine.com) 

4 


1 

2 

TOP Fiona and Izzy are ready to shred the gnar pow in their BlackStrap balaclavas (bsbrand.com). 

BOTTOM Rosie and Mary won’t worry about cold ears with these Pistil beanies (pistildesigns.com). 

FAR RIGHT As the evening grows long and the adults showed no signs of slowing, Izzy and Fiona 

lay down in a nest of Bryar Wolf pillows, handmade featuring fabrics from around the world 

(bryarwolf.com) and read stories to Mary and Rosie from Oregon Reads Aloud: A Collection of 25 

Children’s Stories by Oregon Authors and Illustrators (powells.com/books). 

1 BlackStrap balaclavas (bsbrand.com) 

2 Pistil beanies (pistildesigns.com) 

3 Bryar Wolf pillows (bryarwolf.com) 

4 Oregon Reads Aloud: A Collection of 25 Children’s Stories 

by Oregon Authors and Illustrators (powells.com/books) 


3 

4 


HE FLYING IRISHM 

RIDES AGAI 

DENNY EDWARDS WAS AN EVEL KNIEVEL-STYLE DAREDEVIL 

IN ANOTHER ERA, BUT HE’S NEVER GIVEN UP HIS CRAFT 

written by James Sinks | photography by Timothy J. Gonzalez 

EVERYONE LOVES A COMEBACK STORY. 

AND YOU CAN ATTRACT QUITE A CROWD, 

IT TURNS OUT, IF YOUR COMEBACK INVOLVES 

LAUNCHING A MOTORCYCLE 15 FEET 

IN THE AIR OVER SEMITRUCKS. 

Denny Edwards looked over his front wheel 

down the gravel runway between the gathered 

spectators, clustered on the sides of a pair 

of wooden ramps in front of McMinnville’s 

Evergreen Air and Space Museum. 

It had been more than thirty years 

since he zigzagged the Northwest, 

performing jumps on his 1966 Triumph 

motorcycle, entertaining crowds as “The 

Flying Irishman.” 

Now, he was back. At 72, he’s still got a 

mop of hair, but it’s grey now. 

He gripped the throttle and smiled inside 

his shamrock-emblazoned helmet. The bike 

rumbled beneath him. The years melted away. 

There is a moment, Denny said, when you 

reach the top of a ramp at 60 miles per hour 

or more, and all you can see is blue sky. There is 

nothing else like it. 

He hit the gas, and soared into the 

blue sky. 


AN 

N

DENNY WANTED TO MAKE A LIVING 

ON THE MOTORCYCLE CIRCUIT. 

HE INITIALLY ASSUMED THERE 

WOULD BE GROUND BENEATH HIS 

TIRES. BUT WHEN THAT 

DIDN’T WORK, HE AIMED HIGHER. 

“IN THE RACING BUSINESS, YOU NEED TO 

PLACE FIRST, SECOND OR THIRD TO GET A 

PAYCHECK,” HE SAID WITH A GRIN. “BUT IF YOU 

JUMP? YOU CAN SCREW IT UP REALLY BAD 

AND STILL GET PAID.” 

Denny grew up in Grand Ronde in a logging family. He 

made his first jump in 1972 in Brookings on the southern 

Oregon coast, trying to emulate his idol Evel Knievel. Kids 

came to watch. 

“It turns out that jumping doesn’t take a whole lot of 

motorcycle skill,” he said, pronouncing it “motor-sickle.” “It’s 

just the big hole in the middle that keeps most people from 

doing it.” 

He started to perform at fairs and other events—promoters 

said he was a “poor’s man’s Evel Knievel” because he jumped 

for much less money. In an era before YouTube, folks would 

pour into grandstands to see a daredevil in real life. 

He would set up his ramps, soar in the air on his thisheavy-bike-was-not-made-for-jumping 

motorcycle, and then 

conclude his act by smashing through a gasoline-soaked, 

flaming wooden wall. 

“It happens so fast you don’t feel anything,” he said. 

Needing a nickname, he chose “The Flying Irishman.” He has 

some Irish in his gene pool, after all, but no Dutch. He wore a 

white leather jumpsuit to protect him if he went down, and a 

sparkly green belt. 

For thirteen years, which included a few marriages, a litany 

of injuries and a cracked vertebra or two, he estimates he 

completed some 100 jumps. He even got a chance to meet 

Evel Knievel. 

His last jump came in 1985 in Prineville. On the landing, he 

almost completely overshot the ramp, and his rear tire broke 

through. He put his boots down and the ground ripped the 

soles off. He lost all his toenails. He put the bike on its side, and 

broke a few ribs. 

But he still rode through the flaming wall, to cheers. 

“This business is kind of like landing an airplane,” Denny 

said. “If you can walk away from it, it’s a good day. You can’t 

get too picky.” 

The episode wasn’t just hard on his ribs. It strained his family, 

so he decided to call it a career. He drove his Peterbilt log truck 

to pay the bills. And no, he laughed, he didn’t try to take any 

jumps in his truck. 

Today, he lives with his girlfriend on a grass seed farm 

outside Sheridan, just down the road from where he grew up. 

Meanwhile, his motorcycles were on display at the World of 

Speed museum in Wilsonville. 

But he never lost the itch. Besides, the jumpsuit still fit. 

A singer always loves the microphone, he said—it’s kind of 

like that. And, he reckoned, he wasn’t getting any younger. Life 

will throw a lot of things at you, but it won’t give you extra time. 

“The golden years? That’s when you piss the bed. That’s the 

only golden part of it,” he said. “Young or old, if you want to do 

something, you need to go do it. If you want to go jump out of 

an airplane, I don’t care if you are 80 years old, go do it. If you 

want to go scuba diving with sharks or climb mountains or 

whatever you want to do, you need to go do it because this is 

really a short ride.” 

He started fixing his ramps. 


FROM LEFT Denny 

“The Flying Irishman” 

Edwards, 72, center, 

shakes hands with 

Josiah Hill, 5, right, in 

August. Edwards clears two 

Peterbilt semitruck cabs on 

his 1966 Triumph motorcycle in 

August, his first motorcyle jump 

since retiring more than thirty 

years ago. Spectators wait for 

Edwards’ jump. 

Fifty-year-old Triumphs are not jumping bikes. Unlike dirt 

bikes, they have very little bounce in their suspensions. But, 

Denny said, he wanted to go full nostalgia for his comeback. 

The way it used to be. 

“There’s no substitute for a big buildup, the electricity in 

the air,” he said. 

His girlfriend, Carol de Jong, stood alongside the jump. “I 

told him I think he’s a crazy S.O.B.,” she said, which is pretty 

much what she’s always called him. “But this is something 

that’s always been part of him.” 

The crowd was abuzz. The comeback attempt attracted 

more than a thousand people. It was part circus, part classic 

rock concert and part motorcycle rally, with both wide-eyed 

grade schoolers and rows of Harley Davidsons parked near 

the shadows of decommissioned fighter jets. 

The Flying Irishman arrived in a limo, in his white jumpsuit. 

He climbed atop the landing ramp and thanked his sponsors 

and the friends who came from as far away as Brookings, 

including some who were there for his first jump. 

Then, he climbed onto his old bike, and with a throng 

watching for the first time in thirty-two years, he sped 

toward the ramp and into the blue sky. 

It took only a second for Denny to soar 60 feet and clear 

two Peterbilt semitruck cabs. The crowd roared. 

But the heavy bike was not forgiving. The jolt of the landing 

cracked a vertebra, and Denny knew it as soon as it happened. 

As soon as he braked to a stop, he put the bike down and fell 

with it. He beckoned to the waiting paramedics. 

He jokes that it’s a good party if you arrive in a limo and 

leave in an ambulance. 

There was some conversation about submitting the jump 

to the Guinness Book of World Records, he said, but it ended 

up being too much hassle. 

His jumping days are over, Denny said. The comeback was 

just too much for his girlfriend and family. And, yes, it was 

hard on his 72-year-old back. 

So what’s next? Nothing too risky, he said. He’ll rebuild 

more antique Peterbilt trucks, and ride some horses. 

And his ramps? “I put them up for sale,” Denny said. 

Next July in Butte, Montana, will be Evel Knievel Days, 

a motorcycle jumping and daredevil jamboree that pulls in 

people from darn near everywhere. 

“If my ramps aren’t sitting here,” he said, “I won’t be 

tempted.” 


WINTER 

GETAWAYS 

96 1859 written by Sheila G. Miller 

OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2017

WINTER TRAVEL can 

be daunting. There 

are holidays and 

family gatherings to 

consider. Roads in 

farther-flung regions 

become impassable, 

making true wilderness 

adventures more of 

a challenge. But just 

because snow might be 

falling and dusk may 

come earlier day after 

day, that doesn't mean 

you can't find a spot 

for a relaxing winter 

getaway. Here are our 

picks for some of the 

best spots to escape 

for a winter warmer. 

1 

Kam Nielsen Kam Nielsen 

1 

RUNNING Y RESORT 

This eighty-two-room lodge on the outskirts of Klamath Falls has all the 

trappings of Oregon’s beauty—lake views with the looming Cascade 

peaks. There’s an ice rink at the entrance to the resort, and it’s the 

perfect jumping-off point for a snowy adventure at Crater Lake, which 

is just fifty minutes away. 

+ BONUS: Running Y is at the center of the largest gathering of 

wintering bald eagles in the contiguous forty-eight states. Other bird 

species are easy to spot nearby, too. 

Kam Nielsen 


Talia Galvin 

Talia Galvin 

2 

ASHLAND SPRINGS HOTEL 

For some, winter means cuddling up. But 

for the traveler not content to sit around, 

Ashland Springs Hotel offers comfort and 

convenience to cultural experiences. The 

hotel, built in 1925, has been restored to 

its original glory and features comfortable 

feather down beds, a lovely continental 

breakfast and an afternoon cookie and tea 

service. Plus, it’s steps from the Oregon 

Shakespeare Festival and a short trip from 

the southern Oregon wine country. 

+ BONUS: The hotel offers packages 

around the Shakespeare festival, but also 

deals on wine tasting, craft beer and its 

onsite spa. 

2

Tor Lundgren 

3 

Mt. Hood Cultural Center & Museum 

4 

Mt. Hood Cultural Center & Museum 

3 

HOUSE ON THE METOLIUS 

If what you seek is true privacy, House on 

the Metolius is the place to lay your head. 

The resort, which consists of a main house 

and five smaller cabins spread throughout 

the 200-acre property, is tucked away in 

Camp Sherman. Surrounded by forest and 

nestled against the Metolius River, you’ll 

get all the best of Central Oregon—quiet 

solitude, winter weather and Oregon’s 

inspiring vistas. 

+ BONUS: From November to April, House 

on the Metolius offers a complimentary 

third night when you book a two-night stay 

in one of the cabins. 

4 

STEINER CABINS 

These storybook cabins are heavy on the 

rustic side of winter getaway—but they’re 

about as Oregon as you can get. Sprinkled 

around Mt. Hood and built between 1925 

and 1952, the cottages look like something 

you’d see in a storybook, deep in the 

woods with basalt rock fireplaces, locally 

sourced log beams and gabled porches. The 

cabins are privately owned but a couple are 

available for rent. 

+ BONUS: Even if you can’t get into one of 

the Steiner rentals, Mt. Hood Cultural Center 

& Museum puts on an annual self-guided 

tour of some of the cabins in the area. 


5 

Salishan Spa & Golf Resort 

5 

SALISHAN SPA & GOLF RESORT 

Salishan is one of the old-school options oft 

overlooked by modern Oregonians. First opened 

in 1965 on the central Oregon coast, Salishan has 

been remodeled and has kept those Siletz Bay views 

and the quiet forest surrounding its grounds. Four 

restaurants onsite and a spa mean there’s no need to 

leave—but if you do venture out, Gleneden Beach is a 

stunning spot for a walk. 

+ BONUS: While out walking the 7-mile stretch of 

sand from Siletz Bay to Roads End near Lincoln 

City, keep your eyes peeled for one of the 3,000 

handcrafted glass floats made by local artists. The 

Finders Keepers program runs from mid-October 

to Memorial Day, and if you spot a colorful glass 

keepsake nestled into the surf, you get to keep it. 





6 

6 

BRASADA RANCH 

This 1,800-acre resort outside Powell Butte 

brings glamour to the Western rustic ranch 

feel, to a delightful result. Try one of the eight 

hotel suites (complete with private balconies 

and some with soaking tubs), or grab one of 

the luxury cabins. With an on-site spa, visitors 

can work up a sweat with a ski, then spoil 

themselves with a body wrap or massage. 

+ BONUS: Brasada staff can set up a special 

treat or two in your room before your arrival, 

from a housemade ‘smores package to 

Oregon pinot noir to a bouquet of wildflowers. 

Brasada Ranch 

Brasada Ranch 


TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 104 

ADVENTURE 106 

LODGING 112 

TRIP PLANNER 114 

NORTHWEST DESTINATION 120 

pg. 106 

Reeds line the shore in the Klamath Basin.

travel spotlight 

Waldo Lake 

written by Kjersten Hellis 

CRATER LAKE OFTEN takes the spotlight 

away from other lakes in Oregon, but 

breathtaking Waldo Lake is on par with it. 

Located in the Willamette National Forest 

about 30 miles east of Oakridge, Waldo 

Lake is one of the largest natural alpine 

lakes in Oregon. It is non-alkali and there are 

no permanent inlets that bring nutrients to 

support plant life. With no plant debris to 

cloud the water, the visibility underwater 

can be clear up to 120 feet. The lake itself 

covers 10 square miles and at its deepest 

is 420 feet. The surrounding Waldo Lake 

Wilderness features more than 20 miles 

of trails on the Jim Weaver Loop. You 

can stay in one of five, well-maintained 

campgrounds around the banks. Boats 

with electric motors are allowed and fish 

are abundant. 

U.S. Forest Service 


capture 

the feeling. 

Discover the hidden gem of Ashland! 

Retreat into a hot mineral bath. 

Warm up by the crackling fireplace. 

Rejuvenate at our on-site spa. 

BANDON.COM 

BOOK NOW: 800.482.7128 

L I T H I ASPRINGSRESORT.COM

adventure 

Paddling south toward Pelican Bay. 

PADDLING 

THE ROCKY POINT 

CANOE TRAIL 

written and photographed by Juliet Grable 

THE SKY SEEMS TWICE AS BIG in Rocky Point, especially from a kayak. 

Mirrored clouds framed by marsh grasses expand from the horizon in both 

directions, obliterating such petty human concerns as unanswered emails. 

A trip on the Rocky Point Canoe Trail is an adventure of the gentle variety, 

one that offers up its treasures to those willing to slow to a paddler’s pace. 

The canoe trail is a signed route 

through 9½ miles of creeks and sloughs 

buffering the west side of Upper 

Klamath Lake northwest of Klamath 

Falls. You can access the trail from 

either the Rocky Point or Malone 

Springs boat launch. 

If you’re into birds, bring binoculars. 

Before you even dip an oar into the 

water, you’re likely to hear the hard 

chatter of a kingfisher or the trill of a 

red-winged blackbird calling from the 

tules. Even novices will have no trouble 

spotting egrets and herons, grebes, 

white pelicans, osprey and other 

raptors. The bald eagles are downright 

nonchalant, just as likely to watch you 

from a close perch as fly away. 

Launching from Rocky Point, you 

can head north on Recreation Creek, 

past Rocky Point Resort, or turn south 

and follow the eastern shore 

of Pelican Bay until you find 

the entrance to Crystal Creek. 


adventure 

If you take the resort route, you’ll likely encounter more 

traffic in the first quarter-mile than you will the rest of the 

day: kids swimming, people fishing off the docks or from 

small watercraft, and paddlers of all varieties. You’ll pass 

the resort restaurant perched above the slough and the lush 

lawns and private docks of the cottages lining the western 

shore. But soon enough, the channel narrows and the crowd 

thins. Then it’s just you, your boat and the expansive sky, 

doubled in reflection—a lovely, simplified landscape that 

constantly changes as clouds shift and wind ruffles the water. 

The trail is part of the Upper Klamath Lake Wildlife 

Refuge, which comprises nearly 5,000 acres of freshwater 

marsh and open water. Fed by cold springs that channel 

through pockets of pumice, it’s a haven for avian residents 

and the thousands of birds passing through along the 

Pacific Flyway. 

Dragonflies dip. A song sparrow repeats its distinctive 

trilling song. A kaleidoscope of blues, greens and golds 

swirls in the wake of the boat ahead. In the Wocus Cut, 

the channel narrows and the boat glides through mats of 

wocus, a pond lily with heart-shaped leaves and large, waxy 

yellow blooms. 

There’s a world under the water, too. Young 

fish thrive in the tangle of wocus stems. Beavers 

shuttle from their lodges, impressive mounds that 

“Soon enough, the 

channel narrows 

and the crowd thins. 

Then it’s just you, 

your boat and the 

expansive sky, doubled 

in reflection—a lovely, 

simplified landscape 

that constantly 

changes as clouds 

shift and wind ruffles 

the water.” 

White pelicans are a common sight, 

especially near Pelican Bay. 


adventure 

The breeze often creates wind-driven 

currents in the afternoon. 

push up above the marsh grasses. A beaver dam at the intersection of 

Recreation Creek and Crystal Creek may require a portage when the 

water is low. 

Paddling south from Malone Springs, a mosaic of vegetation flanks 

the western shore. The creek is lined with rushes and cattails, and behind 

them, willows and cottonwoods. In the distance, conifers blanket the 

slopes of snow-capped mountains. Lost in this landscape, imbued with 

the pungent fragrances and soft sounds of the marsh, it’s easy to forget 

Westside Road parallels the trail for much of the way. 

A couple of loops are possible, a shorter one via Wocus Cut, or a 

longer one up Recreation Creek and back down Crystal Creek. Or you 

can paddle from Pelican Bay to Malone Springs and back—a total of 8 

miles. Whichever route you take, allow plenty of time and keep an eye 

out for the sometimes inconspicuous signage (some of the signs are bent 

or turned backward). If you finish your journey at Pelican Bay, be warned 

that the wind picks up in the afternoon and can create decent chop on 

the open water. 

When you’re through paddling, travel a few decades backward 

and enjoy the hospitality at the Rocky Point Resort—it’s only open 

April to November, but the full-service resort offers RV hookups, tent 

camping, and cabins, a store for provisions and a restaurant. You can 

also rent one- and two-person kayaks, canoes, and paddleboats for 

half or full days. 

LOGISTICS 

DIRECTIONS FROM KLAMATH FALLS: 

Drive west on Highway 140 for 25 miles. 

Turn right on Westside Road and look for 

the sign for Rocky Point on the right. 

DIRECTIONS FROM MEDFORD: Take 

Highway 62 east until you reach the 

intersection with Highway 140. Drive east 

on highway 140 for 44 miles. Turn left on 

Westside Road and look for the sign for 

Rocky Point on the right. 

WHAT TO KNOW: Gas stations are scarce 

in these parts, so fuel up before you go. 

If you’re bringing your own boat and it’s 

longer than 10 feet, you’ll need to carry 

an Aquatic Invasive Species Program 

Permit from the Oregon State Marine 

Board: oregon.gov/OSMB/boater-info/ 

Pages/Aquatic-Invasive-Species-Program- 

Frequently-Asked-Questions.aspx 


We’ve literally pulled out all the stops to make your escape to Newport a breeze. Find your getaway driver 

and make a break for it. For travel and lodging information visit Adventure20.com. 

COTTAGE 

GROVE

lodging 

photos by Heaven McArthur 

ROOMS 

Book one of four perfectly preserved 

1970s-style cabins mere feet from the 

McKenzie River, the comfy Family Cabin, 

or the 3,200-square-foot Historic Lodge, a 

gorgeous circa-1930s log lodge with three 

suites, a full kitchen and a grand stone 

fireplace. The lodge is just the spot to 

assemble that new National Parks puzzle 

or play a boisterous game of Cards Against 

Humanity. For larger groups, the property’s 

mossy, fern-filled stretch of forest can 

accommodate up to 100 campers, with 

bathroom, shower and laundry facilities a 

short walk away. 

Lodging 

Loloma Lodge 


IT’S THE MOST ROMANTIC of winter 

settings—squirreled away in a rustic, 

snow-capped cabin on the river, watching 

the white-tipped rapids with mugs of 

mulled wine in hand, fireplace crackling 

in the background, beef bourguignon 

bubbling in the oven. Such is the scene at 

recently revived Loloma Lodge, a pristine 

11-acre retreat perched on the banks of 

the beautiful McKenzie River, an hour east 

of Eugene. 

The lodge was acquired in spring 2017 

by dynamic Bend-based husband-wife duo 

Wallis Levin, 33, and Tyrone Hazen, 37, 

who were only dreaming of owning a cozy 

riverfront cabin when they serendipitously 

stumbled on a miscategorized real estate 

listing—for an entire riverfront resort. 

Falling hard, they soon had the keys in 

hand and set about molding the storied 


CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT The family cabin’s rustic charm. The 

historic lodge is 3,200 square feet and was built in the ’30s. Four 

cabins on the property are preserved in all their ’70s glory. 

site into a one-of-a-kind destination for 

nature weddings, off-the-grid corporate 

retreats, nostalgia-filled family reunions 

and quick weekend escapes from city life. 

Loloma’s daily itinerary is sublimely 

simple—after cooking up an omelet with 

eggs from the hen house and fresh greens 

foraged from the organic garden, stroll 

the serene forest glen, rest on a riverfacing 

log bench and commune with the 

resident hummingbirds that flit through 

the meadow. The bravest souls may even 

want to follow in the footsteps of Hazen, 

who takes a daily dip in the frigid, crystalclear 

river—or just toss him a wave from 

your cabin deck. 

56687 MCKENZIE HIGHWAY 

MCKENZIE BRIDGE 

lolomalodge.com 

FEATURES 

It’s water, water, everywhere in this neck 

of the Oregon woods. Twenty minutes 

southwest of the lodge, year-round 

Terwilliger (a.k.a. Cougar) Hot Springs 

tempts with lush greenery surrounding a 

burbling tier of six rock-walled soaking pools 

that range from 85 to 112 degrees. A word 

of warning: clothing is optional, but the 

$6 day pass is not—purchase one onsite. 

Twenty minutes northeast, stop at stunning 

Sahalie Falls, which plunges 100 feet over a 

natural lava dam. The main lookout point is 

steps from the parking lot, but for a longer 

nature walk, follow the 2.6-mile riverfront 

loop trail to Koosah Falls. When weather 

permits, book a fishing trip with Helfrich 

River Outfitters, hit the rapids with Horse 

Creek Lodge & Outfitters, or play a round of 

golf at nearby Tokatee Golf Club. 

DINING 

Each cabin has a full-size refrigerator 

and oven-endowed kitchen, stocked with 

dishware, cooking utensils, pots and pans, 

a coffee maker and a toaster. If dining out, 

grab thick, juicy double brisket burgers 

at homey McKenzie Station Pub, or 

Pacific Northwest salmon tacos and local 

microbrews on McKenzie General Store’s 

covered patio. In the morning, join the locals 

at family-friendly Takoda’s for a hearty 

marionberry pancake breakfast. 

AMENITIES 

After lighting the pre-set fire in the fireplace, 

host an intimate indoor marshmallow roast 

with a handcrafted Nineteen27 S’mores 

Kit. Mix your own drink from the on-site 

cocktail cart, stocked with local liquor and 

herbs from the organic garden, and for a 

quintessential country breakfast, gather 

your own eggs and produce from the 

garden and fry up an omelet. If coveting 

your cabin’s color-splashed vintage 

Moroccan rugs and macramé wall hangings, 

pop into the lodge’s market, brimming with 

textiles and treasures culled from Levin’s 

many travels.

trip planner 

History, 

Waterfalls 

and Art 

Exploring Troutdale, 

the gateway to the Gorge 

written by Kim Cooper Findling 

photography by Austin White 

TROUTDALE, JUST 15 MILES east of 

Portland, is a charming small Oregon city 

known for its rich historical past and as the 

gateway to the Columbia River Gorge. 

The settlement was first known as Sandy, 

after the nearby river. In 1872, Captain 

John Harlow chose the location on a scenic 

knoll above the confluence of the Sandy and 

Columbia rivers for his farm. It was he who 

renamed Troutdale, for the trout he installed 

in the pond on his rural estate. 

Since the installation of the nation’s first 

scenic highway here in 1916, Troutdale has 

been famous as the jumping-off point for 70 

miles of gorgeous scenery in the Columbia 

River Gorge. A breathtaking tour of the 

Historic Columbia River Highway begins 

under a downtown arch. 

The city of 16,000 is also known for art and 

antiques, outdoor play and a few culinary 

surprises. Late fall is a great time to explore, 

when crowds thin, trees show their 

true colors and art galleries come 

alive with holiday cheer. 

LEFT McMenamins’ sprawling 70-acre Edgefield campus 

is the place to stay on your next trip to Troutdale. 


trip planner 

Day 

HISTORY • ARCHITECTURE • DINNER AT A POOR HOUSE 

Spend your first day in Troutdale acquainting yourself with 

this friendly city’s history. Captain John Harlow was a sea captain 

from Maine and a Portland, Oregon, businessman before he 

became one of Troutdale’s earliest residents. Harlow’s original 

manor burned down, but the home of his son, Fred Harlow,, built 

in 1900, remains standing in Harlow House City Park, serving as 

the Harlow House Museum of the Troutdale Historical Society. 

The Harlow House is captured in time, outfitted with period 

items owned by the Harlow families and other Troutdale 

residents, including a collection of bone china. Another historic 

gem to be explored here is the Troutdale Rail Depot Museum. 

The rail line was established in 1882, thanks to a political push by 

John Harlow, as was a depot. Fire claimed the depot building too, 

but the replacement built in 1907 remains standing today. The 

Harlow House is open for tours on Sunday afternoons and the 

Rail Depot on Fridays. 

Round out your day of exploring Troutdale’s history by having 

a beer at what was once the Multnomah County Poor Farm. The 

grand building housed the ill and indigent on the east end of 

Troutdale at the turn of the century and was abandoned in the 

1980s. Enter the McMenamin brothers, who recreated the site 

as Edgefield, a sprawling 70-acre campus of hospitality. The main 

building has 100 guest rooms. The site also boasts a brewery, 

distillery, winery, golf course, live music venue and several 

restaurants and watering holes. The Black Rabbit Restaurant is 

renowned as one of McMenamins’ best fine-dining 

destinations. After dinner, soak in a warm pool, watch 

glass blowing or take a walking tour of the grounds as 

the sun sets. 


trip planner 

AT LEFT, CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM McMenamins Edgefield is 

the perfect place to grab a drink after a day of touring. Period items 

allow visitors to step back in time at Harlow House. Gorge Glashaus 

is located at McMenamins Edgefield. ABOVE The Troutdale 

General Store has three floors packed with souvenirs, specialty 

candles and more. RIGHT Sculptures outside Caswell Gallery. 

Day 

ART • ANTIQUES • WINE 

Troutdale has one of the most charming downtowns in the 

state of Oregon. Lovely storefronts fronted by flower planters 

and spacious sidewalks line the Historic Columbia Gorge 

Highway where it begins, with a hint of a river view in the 

distance to the north. 

Begin an exploration of this city’s aesthetic and artistic side at 

the Troutdale Art Center. This artists’ collective invites guests in 

to see artists at work and purchase their work on the spot. Art 

Center founder Alison Brown does her work in bronze sculpture 

here, specializing in likenesses of the famous University of 

Oregon duck mascot. Her husband, Rip Caswell, has Caswell 

Sculpture, also downtown, where he creates bronze sculptures 

of wildlife. Caswell and Brown are also behind a bronze foundry, 

newly opened this fall. Take a stroll over to Mayor’s Square, where 

Caswell’s nod to his home city is the bronze sculpture “Rainbow 

Splendor,” the likeness of two trout leaping over a water fountain. 

The Troutdale General Store is a massive, old-timey destination 

with three floors of souvenirs, T-shirts, specialty candies and 

more. Perhaps the store’s highlight is the entire bottom floor, 

given over to holiday décor and ornaments. Don’t miss the long 

antique soda counter offering breakfast, lunch, espresso, ice 

cream and a large assortment of desserts. 

Stop in at a few more of Troutdale’s art galleries and antique 

stores, including Infusion Gallery, which supports artists with 

development and intellectual disabilities. 

When everything on your shopping list is crossed off, visit 

Calcagno Cellars to taste some locally made wine. Grapes from 

the Yakima Valley are at the heart of this winery’s cabernet 

sauvignon, for which they are best known. Its newer Historic 

Highway Salute sparkling riesling is a delicious pour with a good 

cause—every purchase supports the Troutdale Historical Society. 

End the day at Troutini, a fine dining destination with an 

upbeat, casual ambience and delicious food. Chef Nick LaShomb 

creates artful, regional dishes at this downtown favorite. Try the 

scallops, ribs or a housemade pot pie, a glass of Oregon 

wine or beer, and a delicious pot of crème brulee. 


trip planner 

Day 

SCENIC DRIVE • WATERFALLS • AMERICANA FARE 

Troutdale was chosen as the place where the 

nation’s first scenic highway would begin. The 

construction of the Historic Columbia Gorge 

Highway in 1916 is the event that arguably 

put this modest city on the map for good. 

It was the era of the vehicle, and America 

was smitten with pretty places to drive their 

cars. The designers of the highway put their 

all into its design, and it is a masterpiece of 

engineering and aesthetics that endures as 

one of Oregon’s true gems. 

Begin your day at the Barn Exhibit Hall 

downtown to learn about the construction 

and preservation of the “King of Roads.” Then 

pass under the arch that reads “Gateway to 

the Gorge” and wind east along the highway 

itself. Vista House offers your first drop-dead 

awesome views of the river and basalt lava 

flows that created this landscape. Continue 

on to visit waterfall after lovely waterfall, 

including Latourell, Bridal Veil, Multnomah 

and Horsetail Falls. Each offers a hike if you’d 

like to stretch your legs, or simply gaze at the 

cascading water and snap some pictures. 

FROM LEFT Take in the view at Portland Women’s Forum State Park Scenic Viewpoint. 

Tad’s Chicken ‘n Dumplins has been serving up Oregon fare since the 1920s. 

If you’d rather see the highway and gorge 

from the air, book a flight from the Troutdale 

Airport with Envi Adventures. Experienced 

pilots will fly you over Vista Point and each 

waterfall to the Bridge of the Gods and back 

for a panoramic tour. 

When the historic highway opened, 

restaurants, tearooms, hot dog stands and 

dance pavilions sprang up overnight to feed 

and entertain travelers. Hints of this time 

remain at two iconic destinations on the 

Troutdale end of the Historic Highway: 

Shirley’s Tippy Canoe and Tad’s Chicken 

‘n Dumplins. Tad’s is 1920s-era roadhouse 

founded to serve early day-trippers Oregon 

fare—fish and chips, smoked salmon, and of 

course, chicken and dumplings, still anchor 

the menu. Shirley’s hasn’t been around quite 

as long as Tad’s, but this one-time biker 

bar turned Americana restaurant has been 

serving classic seafood dishes, sloppy joes and 

the like for a very long time. Let the afternoon 

slip into evening on the spacious deck under 

the tall Douglas firs by the Sandy River. 

TROUTDALE, OREGON 

EAT 

Black Rabbit Restaurant and Bar 

mcmenamins.com/edgefield/blackrabbit-restaurant-bar 

Calcagno Cellars 

calcagnocellars.com 

Shirley’s Tipi Canoe 

shirleysfood.com 

Tad’s Chicken ‘n Dumplins 

tadschicdump.com 

Troutini 

troutini.com 

STAY 

McMenamins Edgefield 

mcmenamins.com 

PLAY 

Barn Exhibit Hall 

troutdalehistory.org/barn-exhibit-hall 

Envi Adventures 

enviadventures.com 

Historic Columbia Gorge Highway 

columbiariverhighway.com 

Harlow House Museum of the 

Troutdale Historical Society 

troutdalehistory.org/harlow-house 

Infusion Gallery 

facebook.com/InfusionGallery 

Troutdale General Store 

facebook.com/Troutdale-General- 

Store-293367684006750 

Editor’s note: The west Columbia Gorge region was seriously impacted early this fall by the Eagle Creek Fire. The fire broke out September 

2 and burned throughout the month, consuming nearly 50,000 acres. As of press time, the fire was still not entirely contained. Many of 

the roads and natural areas between Troutdale and Cascade Locks are currently closed to the public, including the Columbia Gorge 

Scenic Highway, which remains closed indefinitely. Still, local cities like Troutdale are open for business and primed for recovery, and 

all in this story but the scenic highway are accessible now. See tripcheck.com and westcolumbiagorgechamber.com for more information. 


We are 

Bordeaux 

Bold 

CABERNET FRANC 

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 

MALBEC 

CALCAGNOCELLARS.COM 

Winery & Tasting Room 

336 E Historic Columbia River Hwy 

Troutdale, Oregon

northwest destination 

McCall is Calling 

Getting outdoors in Central Idaho 

written and photographed by Kevin Max 

Head to Ponderosa State Park in McCall for a scenic run or hike. 

CENTRAL IDAHO in Payette National Forest is situated on 

a peninsula jutting into the southern end of Payette Lake. At 

its commercial center is McCall, a lakeside mountain idyll with 

year-round allure. Its downtown has everything from breweries 

and eateries to shopping and skating on a community ice rink 

and skiing at nearby Brundage. In all seasons, the outdoors are 

the draw. 

When it comes to glamping, the best policy is reserve, then 

roam. That is—reserve the best spot that you can live with, then, 

once in the area, seek the prized spot not listed on any website. 

We booked a spot at Ponderosa State Park campground 

at the southern end of Payette Lake. The park lies at the base 

of a peninsula that juts well into the lake. A trail outlines the 

peninsula and goes for almost 7 miles. It’s a good trail run or 

hike with varied and scenic terrain as it meanders into a deep 

forest and along the lake. 

We later drove the short 10 miles into McCall to spend the 

rest of the day there. At the marina, the Ski-Doos were all in 

action, so we rented standup paddleboards and set out across 

the lake. Vacation houses line the shore. Motor boats towed 

kids, who bumped along behind, beaming glee and tension at 

once. I added a wrinkle of thrill and stupidity by paddling with 

my phone in my pocket, hoping to get one good photo. Wakes 

of speed boats came at me in waves of anxiety. 

On the shore, pickup sand volleyball was in play. Families 

sat in the surrounding grass and watched. Watching others in 

athletic pursuit has a way of making me hungry. 

The top deck of McCall Brewing Co. offers a tall, wide view 

of McCall and Payette Lake. It has a more local feel than being 

down in the harbor with map-in-hand tourists. We ordered up 

the Mackinaw Red and Hippie Hopped Pale, leaving some room 

for the McCall burger and Asian lettuce wraps. 

More options with a brewery setting are Salmon River Brewery 

down on the lake and Broken Horn a mile from downtown. Or 

hop over to Rupert’s at Hotel McCall for a more cosmopolitan 

menu of duck confit crepes and Basque croquetas. 

That night we sought a more secluded camping spot and went 

for a walk. Farther out along Payette Lake, we found the perfect 

lakeside slip with spectacular views. Minutes later we arrived 

to a setting yellow sun and the white blooms of forest fire over 

Sawtooth Peak to the east billowing into an ocean of blue sky. 

We knew that in a few months, we would return to these 

peaks when they were covered with snow, and it would be 

time to get cozy and a little crazy. The charming Shore Lodge 

is the perfect retreat after skiing at Brundage Mountain. Shore 

Lodge along the western bank of Payette Lake has all 

the trimmings of a resort but styled as a lodge. New 

eateries Cutwater and The Narrows Steakhouse along 


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Oregon | Alaska 

LBBLawyers.com 

Eat. 

Drink. 

Be merry. 

See Albany 

Discover Oregon 

Come celebrate 

fabulous cuisine, history, 

shopping, and 

local wintry spirits. 

Tel: 541-928-0911 

www.albanyvisitors.com 

110 3rd Ave SE 

Albany, OR 97321 

Catch the Holiday Spirit! 

Christmas Ship Viewing 

Cinnamon Bear Cruises 

www.portlandspirit.com Holiday Parties 

Group Rates 

Private Charters 

Portland Spirit Cruises & Events 

800-224-3901 or 503-224-3900 

PortlandSpirit.com 

local family owned since 1994

northwest destination 

MCCALL, IDAHO 

EAT 

McCall Brewing Co. 

mccallbrew.com 

Bistro 45 

bistro45mccall.com 

Rupert’s at the Hotel McCall 

rupertsathotelmccall.com 

Cutwater, Shore Lodge 

shorelodge.com/dining/the-cutwater 

Salmon River Brewery 

salmonriverbrewery.com 

STAY 

Shore Lodge 

shorelodge.com 

Hotel McCall 

hotelmccall.com 

Ponderosa State Park, camping 

parksandrecreation.idaho.gov/parks/ponderosa 

PLAY 

Cove Spa 

thecovemccall.com 

Payette Lake 

visitidaho.org/things-to-do/natural-attractions/payette-lake 

Ponderosa State Park 

parksandrecreation.idaho.gov/parks/ponderosa 

Jug Mountain Ranch 

jugmountainranch.com 

Brundage Mountain 

brundage.com 

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP A view of the mountains from a secluded slip on Payette Lake. A camping spot at Ponderosa 

State Park. Paddleboarding on Payette Lake. 

with Shore Lodge’s renowned Cove Spa make for a romantic 

retreat during the winter months. 

Brundage Mountain has 1,900 feet of vertical, 1,920 acres 

of lift-served trails, 18,000 acres of backcountry and a notable 

story to tell. In the late 1950s, locals Warren Brown and Corey 

Engen enlisted the financial support of potato mogul J.R. 

Simplot, who had a summer house in McCall. Engen was a 

Norwegian immigrant and former captain of the U.S. Nordic 

Ski Team during the 1948 Olympics in Cortina d’Ampezzo. 

The controversial Avery Brundage was then the International 

Olympic Committee chairman, though the name may be a 

bizarre coincidence with the naming of Brundage Mountain. 

In 1961, Brundage Mountain was christened with Engen as 

its manager. The name, Brundage, reportedly comes from a 

shepherd who grazed his sheep in the area. 

No matter what time of year, Burgdorf Hot Springs proffer 

warmth and rusticity. In a wooded area 30 miles north of McCall a 

young German immigrant, Fred C. Burgdorf, made a claim to this 

plot in 1870 after being tipped off by a Chinese miner. In winter, 

visitors can rent snowmobiles from Cheap Thrills in McCall to 

make the trek to the natural springs soaking pools surrounded by 

fifteen cabins with wood stoves and little more. 

At the end of our McCall visit, we headed out highways 21 

and 75 along a 220-mile scenic route through the Boise National 

Forest and eventually into the Sawtooths, toward Ketchum and 

Sun Valley. Along the way, we found Jug Mountain Ranch, an 

out-of-the-way resort that sits adjacent to a network of mountain 

bike trails. A hearty mile-long climb takes you from parking lot 

to nirvana. After the climb, we zoomed our bikes down thrilling 

single track. In that blur, something caught our attention—a 

shipping container hidden in dense trees and jutting out into Jub 

Creek Reservoir. We pulled hard on our brakes and investigated. 

Looking through the windows, we spied a renovated container 

with beds, a wood stove, a small kitchen and an open porch to 

the water. We put this on our list to come back to next time we’re 

escaping to McCall. 


A Pluviophile* Guide 

to Lan Su Chinese Garden 

lan 

su in the rain 

Item No. 3 — 

The natural rhythm of 

water as it lands on 

strategically placed 

plants in the 

garden. 

*plu•vio•phile 

(n) 

a lover of rain; someone 

who finds joy and peace of 

mind during rainy days. 

This project 

was made 

possible in part 

by a grant from 

Travel Oregon 

www.lansugarden.org/rain 

Extend your beach season with an overnight stay 

at one of our unique hotels and vacation rentals. Throw in good 

eats and amazing brews at the famed, oceanfront Pelican Brewing 

Company, and you may never want to go home again.

EXPLORE OREGON 

eat + stay + play 

ANJOU SPA 

Nestled between the lush Cascade 

mountains and High Desert juniper 

and sagebrush, Anjou Spa is a Lifestyle 

and Wellness Spa dedicated to the 

art of looking and feeling good, both 

inside and out. Holistic, results-driven 

and inspired by our environment, 

we focus on providing memorable, 

botanically driven treatments, 

experiences and gifts that support 

equilibrium to an active lifestyle. 

541.241.8454 

1835 NW Pence Lane 

BEND 

anjouspa.com 

ARBORBROOK 

VINEYARDS 

ArborBrook Vineyards is a boutique 

producer of exceptional handcrafted 

wines. Family-owned and operated, it 

is located in the heart of Oregon wine 

country in the Chehalem Mountain 

AVA. Visit the tasting room for a 

relaxing and casual wine tasting 

experience. Weekdays, 11– 4:30. 

Weekends, 11–5. 

503.538.0959 

17770 NE Calkins Lane 

NEWBERG 

arborbrookwines.com 

CASCADE LAKES 

BREWING COMPANY 

On the road to Mt. Bachelor you’ll find 

the warm and welcoming Cascade 

Lakes Brewing Company Lodge. 

Enjoy 16 liquids on draft, a full bar, 

pool table and darts. You can also visit 

the flagship location in Redmond on 

7th Street. A local favorite for Taco 

Wednesdays, horseshoes and great 

hometown feel. Cheers! 

541.388.4998 

1441 SW Chandler Ave., #100 

BEND 

cascadelakes.com 

THE CHATEAU AT 

THE OREGON CAVES 

NATIONAL MONUMENT 

Cool cave, warm hearth. En route between 

the California Redwoods and Crater Lake, 

this national historic landmark offers rustic 

charm and a friendly staff. Experience tours 

of capacious marble caverns ranging from 

family-friendly to adventurous. Explore 

hiking trails to alpine lakes and discover 

nearby wineries and attractions. Find 

lodging, fine dining, a regional artisan gift 

gallery and an authentic 1930s-style café. 

541.592.3400 

20000 Caves Hwy. 

CAVE JUNCTION 

oregoncaveschateau.com 

MOUNT BACHELOR 

VILLAGE RESORT 

Mount Bachelor Village Resort is 

located minutes from downtown Bend 

and the Old Mill District shops on the 

road to Mt. Bachelor. Nestled among the 

pines on the ridge above the Deschutes 

River, the resort offers a variety of 

nightly accommodations (river view 

condominiums, standard hotel-rooms, 

ski house condominiums and vacation 

homes). Distinguishing features include 

access to the Deschutes River Trail, 

outdoor hot tubs, seasonal pools and 

cruiser bikes and complimentary access 

to the Athletic Club of Bend. 

877.514.2391 

19717 Mt. Bachelor Drive 

BEND 

mtbachelorvillage.com 


BLACK BUTTE RANCH 

Formerly a working cattle ranch, 

Black Butte Ranch is nestled at the 

base of the Cascade Mountains with 

stunning views of seven mountain 

peaks and access to all that Deschutes 

National Forest has to offer. The Ranch 

encompasses 1,800 pristine acres of 

Ponderosa forest, meadows, and lakes. 

With two ski areas close by (Hoodoo 

ski area is just 15 miles from the Ranch 

and Mt. Bachelor is 32 miles), two 

recreation centers, indoor pool, spa and 

fitness center you can be as busy or laidback 

as you want. Book a minimum 

three night stay and receive a $50 gift 

card for use anywhere on the Ranch. 

Reserve your stay today! 

541.549.5555 

220 S. Ash St., Ste. 8 

SISTERS 

blackbutte.com

eat + stay + play 

EXPLORE OREGON 

DANCIN VINEYARDS 

2017 Oregon Winery of the Year- 

WPNW. DANCIN is a love story 

and the marriage of science and art. 

Situated in the vineyard and located 

just minutes from Ashland, Medford 

and Jacksonville, our tasting room and 

patio are the perfect setting to drink 

in the views of Table Rocks, Mount 

McLoughlin and the Rogue Valley while 

savoring our award-winning wines 

along with our artisan wood-fired pizzas 

and much more, served tableside! 

541.245.1133 

4477 South Stage Road 

MEDFORD 

dancinvineyards.com 

CHRISTMAS TREASURES 

A Christmas Experience! Christmas 

Treasures brings you the most treasured 

ornaments and items for gift giving and 

collecting. Start a new family tradition. 

Come experience the Old World charm, 

and see our unique products not only 

during the holiday season but all through 

the year. A family business for 24 years. 

Featuring: Jim Shore, Dept. 56, Possible 

Dreams, German Nutcrackers and 

Smokers, Nativities, Charming Tails, 

Michel Design Works and so much more. 

800.820.8189 

52959 McKenzie Hwy. 

BLUE RIVER 

christmas-treasures.com 

MILL INN BED 

& BREAKFAST 

Mill Inn Bed & Breakfast offers 10 

unique rooms in its boutique hotel. 

Each room features luxurious linens, its 

own theme, beautiful furnishings and 

comforts of home, and they’re priced 

to fit your budget. Check out the Mill 

Inn website for information on your 

included homemade hearty breakfast! 

541.389.9198 

642 NW Colorado Ave. 

BEND 

millinn.com 

Rabbit Tales Georgia Gerber 

NW BY NW GALLERY 

Original art by regional masters defines 

this destination gallery. Celebrating 30 

years of excellence with public sculpture 

by gallery artists throughout Cannon 

Beach. NW By NW Gallery represents 

a collector’s selection of bronze 

sculpture by renowned public sculptor 

Georgia Gerber. Visit the Sculpture 

Garden featuring contemporary 

sculptor Ivan McLean. 

503.436.0741 

232 N. Spruce St. 

CANNON BEACH 

nwbynwgallery.com 

OREGON GARDEN 

RESORT 

Escape to Oregon Garden Resort, a 103- 

room, pet-friendly resort set amid an 

80-acre botanical wonder showcasing 

thousands of plants in more than 20 

colorful specialty gardens. There’s 

something for everyone! Explore rare 

conifers, beautiful water features, garden 

art, a 400-year-old Signature Oak tree, 

a fun garden just for kids, pet-friendly 

plants and more. After exploring, relax 

in the resort with a spa treatment, a 

gourmet dinner and cocktail and live 

music nightly. Fun events happen 

throughout the year, including an annual 

Brewfest over Father’s Day weekend, 

and Christmas in the Garden featuring 

lights, ice skating and artisan vendors 

each holiday season. 

503.874.2500 

895 W. Main St. 

SILVERTON 

oregongardenresort.com 

THE OLD MILL DISTRICT 

The Old Mill District is Bend’s 

most unique shopping, dining and 

entertainment experience. The rich 

history of the former sawmills is coupled 

with spectacular mountain views, scenic 

river vistas and an extensive trail system 

to enjoy the outdoors. More than 55 

local, regional and national retailers and 

restaurants call the Old Mill District 

home. Riverside restaurants, trails, shops 

and shows. Bend is here. 

541.312.0131 

450 SW Powerhouse Dr. 

BEND 

theoldmill.com 


1859 MAPPEDThe points of interest below are culled from 

stories and events in this edition of 1859. 

Live 

Think 

Explore 

24 

The Grotto 

66 

Barley Buck 

104 

Waldo Lake 

32 

Mazama Brewing 

70 

Fremont Row 

106 

Rocky Point Canoe Trail 

34 

Crowley Wines 

72 

University of Oregon 

112 

Loloma Lodge 

40 

Rosse Posse Acres 

74 

Anvil Academy 

114 

McMenamins Edgefield 

48 

Ashland Homes Real Estate 

76 

CS Fishery 

120 

McCall, Idaho 


Pursuing excellence 

through fitness 

61615 Athletic Club Drive (541) 385-3062

Until Next Time 

Until Next Time 

Life’s Lessons: 

Reconnecting 

with Mr. Clark 

written by Lori Sweeney 

I’M PRETTY SURE it’s my age, but I’m 

getting nostalgic. Either that, or realizing 

how dang lucky I’ve been. Growing up 

in Bend in the ’60s and ’70s was idyllic— 

riding my bike in the middle of the road, 

chasing pollywogs in the canal, walking 

to school. 

In Larry Clark’s sixth-grade class, he 

brought all his creativity to the task of 

teaching. We built a city (literally) and 

each of us had a role in its economic 

vitality. We learned spelling by speedfinding 

the words in the dictionary. And 

we played softball on the green with the 

girls as captains choosing teams. He could 

shut you up by raising his eyebrow and, 

well, we didn’t get away with much. 

Mr. Clark had grown up in Bend 

himself. He played baseball and studied 

voraciously, went off to University of 

Oregon, a bright future ahead with the 

hope of playing professional ball. In 

one swift minute, he lost three of the 

fingers on his right hand in an industrial 

accident and suddenly his plans 

changed—to teaching. It was lucky for 

me and for hundreds of other kids who 

went to Pilot Butte Elementary and 

Cascade Junior High. 

Mr. Clark was disciplined enough 

to remember education is everything, 

especially when life throws you a curve 

ball. In the classroom, you saw his values 

at work every day: raise up the girls (his 

two adult daughters are independent 

and successful), teach to a student’s 

needs (not somebody else’s benchmark), 

remember to teach the practicality of life 

(each person builds up a community). 

We had a little city we built on a piece of 

plywood, with houses and businesses, in 

the back of the classroom all year. I had 

a furniture-making business, a labor of 

love with Elmer’s Glue, toothpicks and 

tongue depressors. I made miniature 

chairs and beds out of popsicle sticks all 

year long and sold them to my classmates 

to forge my place in the city. What lessons 

we learned: persistence, risk-taking, 

making change. 

He’s the kind of dedicated teacher that 

students remember, who changed the 

trajectory of many of our lives and who loved 

every minute of it. I wanted to thank him for 

being an exceptional teacher, reminding me 

of the discipline of life and having my back 

when things were topsy-turvy at home 

forty-five years ago. 

And so I met with him. In our wisest 

moments, we come back to those junctures 

where the arc of our lives is forever tweaked. 

Here. Where I realize a teacher shaped me 

almost unknowingly. I’m again in Bend, 

Oregon, in a quiet restaurant booth at 

McMenamins St Francis School with a man 

whose lessons got me here—with a teacher 

who said, “You can call me Larry.” 

Thanks Mr. Clark. 


Florence Events Center, host of the 2nd Star Festival. Funded by the Oregon Cultural Trust. 

TOGETHER, WE FUND 1,400+ CULTURAL 

NONPROFITS IN OREGON. 

INCLUDING THIS BOY AND HIS DRAGON. 

Oregonians have a unique opportunity to fund cultural activities in the 

state and double their impact for free - with the Cultural Tax Credit. Make 

sure you are claiming yours. Doing so takes three simple steps that do so 

much for Oregon. Talk to your CPA, or learn more at (503) 986-0088 or 

CulturalTrust.org. 

DOUBLE THE LOVE. HERE’S HOW: 

1. TOTAL 

YOUR DONATIONS 

TO CULTURE 

2. GIVE 3. CLAIM 

A MATCHING 

AMOUNT TO THE 

CULTURAL TRUST 

CULTURAL TAX 

CREDIT ON YOUR 

STATE TAXES

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