1859 Sept | Oct 2012_opt

HAUNTED
OREGON
pg.88
Sweet Savory
Pear Dishes
72 Hours
in Corvallis
Lessons from the
Pacific Crest Trail
september october 212 volume 1
Behind the
Scenes on the
Pinot Crush
pg. 66
Headwaters
to the Sea on
the Salmon River
pg. 76
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september october 212 volume 1
COVER
S
THIS PAGE
N
P
P
66
The Crush
Behind the scenes at the 2011
Pinot noir crush—the latest
on record. McMinnville is
the confluence of anxiety,
experience and camaraderie.
76
Headwaters to Sea
From gurgling headwaters to
crashing sea, a team of ecology
experts traverse the 30-mile bed
of the Salmon River. You’ll never
look at a watershed the same way.
84
Gallery
Passion, patience and
dedication culminate in one
photographer’s love of
wild mustangs in
southeastern Oregon.
88
Haunted Oregon
Friendly and eerie spirits are
part of folklore throughout
history. Tune in to your sixth
sense with tales of some of
Oregon’s most storied haunts.
by KEVIN MAX
by DUNCAN BERRY
by MAGGIE ROTHAUGE
by LEE LEWIS HUSK

SUNSET PORSCHE
MAYBE FOR FEATURE OPENER

Departments
september october 212 volume 1
100
126
54
49
Around Oregon
24 Notebook
Coffee roasters, fly-fishing nationals
and the ultimate local tailgating setup.
34 Road Reconsidered
Golden Highway 238 from Jacksonville
to Grants Pass.
36 72 Hours in Corvallis
At the core of the valley, this orange
city is home to this year’s Civil War
and a lively small-city scene.
43 Restaurant Reviews
1859 reviews steaks from restaurants
around the state.
18 Editor's Letter
128 Oregon Postcard
129 Explore Guide
145 Oregon Quotient
146 Map of Oregon
34
In this issue
Local Habit
49 Artist in Residence
Native American artist Lillian
Pitt finds her calling and gets
back to her roots with stories
and sculpture.
52 From Where I Stand
Mount Angel: With a population
of just 3,285, the Bavaria of the
Valley is Oregon’s best harvest
event for 350,000 visitors.
54 Top 5
Lessons learned on the Pacific
Coast Trail from Wild and Tiny
Beautiful Things author and Portlander,
Cheryl Strayed.
DIGITAL
Ventures
58 Into the Soul
Butte Creek is the West’s oldest
functioning water-driven mill.
60 e Profile
SeQuential is transforming the
biofuel industry one fuel pump
and green roof at a time.
62 What I’m Working On
Oscar-nominated production
designer, Laurence Bennett, talks
silent film and cinematic art.
64 Game Changers
NextStep provides Macs for
Oregon’s disadvantaged.
cover shoot gallery Contests
S
ell us your
haunted story P
A gallery of oregon wild mustangs
W W W . 1 8 5 9 M A G A Z I N E . C O M
Food & Home
100 Farm to Table
It’s time to take a bite of the juicy
state fruit. The versatile pear can
elevate any dish.
106 Home Grown Chef
Carrie Minns brings the pear to
savory heights.
108 Design
Three historic homes with original
detail and modern renewal.
PLUS DIY wood restoration.
Outdoors
58
118 Adventures
From neon spandex to international
climbing mecca, Smith Rock
has come into its own.
126 Athlete Profile
Olympic show jumper, Rich Fellers,
gives small horses a chance. Enter
Flexible, his 16-hand powerhouse.

KEVIN MAX
editor
SARAH MAX
editor at large
C R E A T I V E DIRECTOR
E D I T O R I A L ASSISTANT
D E S I G N ASSISTANT
G
D I G I T A L COORDINATOR
I N T E R N S
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P S
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COLLEGE
1859 Contributors
YOU CAN GET THERE
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OregonCollegeSavings.com

Tim LaBarge
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From the Editor
Undisclosed location of Oregon’s other vortex
THERE IS WEIRDNESS AMONG US.
Not just the garden-variety Oregon weirdness. The kind of weird
that causes you to quickly spin around to address a voice that came
from no earthly voice box. The kind of weird that projects bagpipes
in your hotel room, though they have been gone some twenty years.
The kind of strangeness that lets a broom stand up on its own and
flat-footed people appear to be atilt. These are the stories of “Haunted
Oregon” (page 88). In this piece, Lee Lewis Husk unearths the
tales behind the places where spirits are known to reside. Remarkably,
only a couple of these places serve alcohol.
In a spiritual journey of a different sort, one man decides to explore
the Salmon River from headwaters to its mouth at the Pacific
Ocean in a four-day ecological odyssey. The result is “Headwaters to
Sea” (page 76) a stunning array of observations, photos and a video
that will broaden how we think about our river systems.
Last fall, I had the opportunity to go behind the scenes to observe
and participate in the wine crush with Dave Petterson, the winemaker
from Vista Hills Vineyard. At the outset, the piece was to
be exclusively about what really happens during the harvest and
the wine crush. Something, or rather, nothing happened, which
changed the focus of the story a bit. “Crush” (page 66) tells the story
of the latest Pinot noir crush in Oregon’s history. There was anxiety,
but along with it came the heralded camaraderie and the resolution
that fifty years of winemaking would pay off. This fall, we will taste
the 2011 vintage as it comes out of oak and into bottles. This is a
glimpse of that vintage in the making.
We’d be remiss in not introducing a couple of people who have
distinguished themselves with excellence in their respective fields.
In “What I’m Working On” (page 62) Oscar-nominated production
designer, Laurence Bennett, talks about his latest projects including
The Artist and Third Person. Bennett’s eloquence and elegance
come together in this interview.
As we go to print for this issue, Rich Fellers is competing in the
Olympics as America’s top show jumper. As a kid, who grew up
in the Portland suburbs, Fellers wasn’t much of an equestrian. He
stuck with it and went on to win the World Championships earlier
this year. We caught up with Fellers in our “Athlete Profile” (page
126) just before he shipped off to London.
Finally, we slice, dice and bake Oregon’s state fruit. Of course you
knew it was the pear. This story starts at Valley Crest Orchards in
the Hood River Valley and meanders through restaurants across
the state, and their sweet and savory pear dishes. You’ll find something
in there suitable for your table or
your next tailgater this fall.
1 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012
For the photographic story behind this shoot,
go to 1859magazine.comvortex

www.legacyhealth.org/emanuel100
Everyone loves a firefighter.
Especially a homegrown one.
Meet Paul Corah. Born at Legacy Emanuel, he is a 30-year veteran of
the Portland Fire and Rescue Bureau. Paul believes that the safety and
wellness of our community is of the highest priority … and so do we.
Legacy Emanuel Medical Center has been the birthplace of generations
of people like Paul. In our 100th year of serving the community, we’re
honoring the people who have built Emanuel’s legacy.
What’s your story?
Were you born, saved or trained @ Legacy Emanuel?
Share your story at www.legacyhealth.org/emanuel100
or www.facebook.com/legacyhealth to join the
celebration and qualify for a chance at great prizes.
Our legacy is yours.
See history
Take a trip back to when major surgery cost $15 and
nurses canned fruit for hospital meals — visit our
100 Years at Legacy Emanuel exhibit. Starting in July at the
Oregon History Museum at the Oregon Historical Society.
AD-0759 ©2012

EXPLORE | WIN | CONNECT
get social
Join our discussion of all things Oregon
with the 1859 online community--a
place to learn, discuss and
ask questions about Oregon travel,
history and happenings.
Tell us your
favorite?
dining
cheap eats
lodging
breweries
wineries
hikes
music venues
and more . . .
1859magazine.com/best
comments
newsletter
MATTHEW DOMINGO
“Oregon is known for the
most forward-thinking, locally-minded
chefs & restaurants
in the country. Oh
yeah, also the most ironic
mustaches.”
LOGAN JUVE
(writing from California)
“I am so excited to start
reading this magazine about
my home even while away
from home—does it cure
homesickness? :) Thank you!”
JOIN THE CONVERSATION ON FACEBOOK.COM/1859OREGON
>>> The 1859 monthly
newsletter is our resource
for giveaways,
news and insider tips.
Visit 1859magazine.com/
newsletter. Win exclusive
hotel stays, free tickets
and more.
calendar >>> Looking for something to
do this weekend? Visit 1859magazine.com/calendar
for a current line-up of Oregon’s
most happening events across the state.
Lithia Springs Resort, Ashland
Go to the all-new 1859magazine.com/best to vote
on The Best of Oregon across many categories.
20 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012
W W W . 1 8 5 9 M A G A Z I N E . C O M

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Around Oregon
Places,
people,
things to do
24 What’s Trending
26 Do & See
N
30 Goods & Gear
32 Culture
34 Road Reconsidered
2
G P
36 72 Hours in Corvallis
43 Restaurant Reviews
R
What's Trending

What’s Trending?
Around Oregon
submit what’s new? items at 1859magazine.com/notebook
Coffee roasters are both artist and scientist, vigilantly turning caffeine-laden beans into
delicious, steaming cups with complex flavor. Few libations require as much human effort
as this beloved drink. From harvesting in global locales, to precise flavor development
and ubiquitous coffee shops—the industry is massive. Here are some of Oregon’s
best roasts, with tips to whet your palate.
CHARACTERISTICS
Acidity
Similar to wine, this attribute
keeps the coffee
from tasting flat.
Body
Simply putdepth. A heavier
body helps the coffee
flavors stand up in mixed
drinks, such as lattes.
Aroma
Adds a dimension to the flavor
beyond taste alone.
Flavor
The full package balances the
first three characteristics along
with taste.
BEANS
Arabica
Used in most gourmet
and specialty coffee, these
beans are widely considered
to have the best flavor
profiles, but they are the
most difficult to grow and
take two to four years to
develop for harvest.
Robusta
This plant makes up only
about 2 of coffee trade
but has the benefit of a
shorter year-long growth
cycle and the ability to thrive
where Arabica cannot.
With many great roasters to
choose from, 1859 narrowed
the field down to a few upand-coming
favorites around
the state to help broaden
your coffee world.
11 Roasters Bend
11roasters.com
Ristretto Roasters Portland
ristrettoroasters.com
Noble Coffee Ashland
noblecoffeeroasting.com
Sleepy Monk Cannon Beach
sleepymonkcoffee.com
Motley Brew Joseph
motleybrew.biz
Full City Eugene
full-city.com
Mellelo Coffee Roasters
Medford
mellelo.com
The focus on coffee roasters ignited
passionate discussion around the 1859
office. “How hard can roasting re-
ally be?” we asked. Lone Pine Coffee
Roasters and Strictly Organic Coffee
Co. in Bend graciously provided two
1859 staffers with the green beans and
a "portable coffee roaster" to put these
questions to the test. Visit 1859magazine.com/diy-roasting
to see gritty details
of our first vintage—plus tips for
home roasters.
Good Bean Coffee Company
Jacksonville
goodbean.com
Spend time in the sun's glare, and UV exposure and,
of course, crow’s feet, are a risk whether you’re out
in a bikini or cloistered in a turtleneck. All of Shwood’s
manufacturing—from veneering and lens cutting, to
shaping and finishing—is done in house at its Portland
workshop. The result is entirely handcrafted wooden
eyewear. All models are accompanied by 100% UVA
and UVB protection.
Shwoodshop.com
24 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012
Canby |Cherry wood| $135+
Oswald | Zebrawood| $155+

2012
Bend, OR
2011
Cherokee, NC
U.S. National
Oct 17-1
2009
State College, PA
2006
Boulder, CO
Photo by Joe Cantrell
CHAMPIONSHIPS
With the biggest event in fly-fishing
coming to Central Oregon this year,
the region can truly claim its spot on
the list of the top U.S. places to cast a
line. With a throng of bodies of water,
including the Deschutes, Crooked and
Metolius rivers, the area is a mecca
for anglers. In a sport full of tall tales,
fly-fishings winner is calculated on the
sie and number of fish caught over a
multi-day period. On various Central
Oregon lakes and rivers, the catchand-release
event brings together
about 100 anglers who qualified at regional
levels.
PHOTOGRAPHED: With a former Fly-Fishing
Team USA member for a dad, it was only natural
that Central Oregon local, Russell Robertson,
become a fly-fishing fiend. At ust 7, Robertson has
competed in two maor fishing competitions—one of
which qualified him for this year's nationals. Robertson
is the only local angler slated to compete on his
home waters.
Fly-Fishing in Oregon
Rogue
Near Gold Hill, the Upper Rogue's
residents are rainbow and cutthroat
trout. "Half pounder" steelhead, that
spend just six months in the ocean,
frequent the lower stretch of river.
The Deschutes
From Warm Springs
to the mouth, the
Deschutes offers wild
steelhead and rainbow
trout fishing all across
Central Oregon.
Nehalem
One of the few rivers with
a Coho salmon run, Nehalem
is home to many wild
and hatchery fish, with fall
Chinook known to weigh an
average of 20 pounds.
Umpqua
Discover the
beauty of the "flyfishing
only" North
Fork and heavy
steelhead runs.
Eagle Cap Wilderness
The Minam and Snake rivers are
just two of the many backcountry
fishing options here, from mountain
to canyon. Find steelhead or
Chinook salmon, or various trout
species tugging on your line.
26 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

The best memories aren’t just made.
They’re found.
Everyone has their own Central Oregon.
Find yours at VisitCentralOregon.com.
To get your free Visitors Guide, call 800.800.8334.
S U N R I V E R • B E N D • S I S T E R S • R E D M O N D • L A P I N E

DOG-Friendly
OREGON
Oregonians own at least 29% more dogs than the average
American. Given these numbers, four-legged
friends are welcome in many venues throughout the
state. Here are some restaurant patios that go out of
their way to accommodate Fido.
1859 Hotel Pick
Surfsand Resort | Cannon Beach
surfsand.com
This beachfront resort is every dog owner’s dream. Just some of the
creature comforts of the canine variety: dog bath stations, staffers
who get to know your dog by name, a complimentary bevy of
towels, blankets, dog bowls, treats and more in each room, and
impeccable cleanliness. Hit the beach at night with your guests
and pup, and (upon reservation) staff will set up a bonfire, chairs
and even a s'mores kit for your enoyment.
Lucky Labrador Brewing Co.
Portland | luckylab.com *
The Berlin Inn
Portland | berlininn.com *
Tin Shed Garden Café
Portland | tinshedgardencafe.com *
The Beach Dog Café
Lincoln City | thebeachdogcafe.com
Holstein’s
The Dalles | 541.298.2326
Lumberyard Rotisserie and Grill
Cannon Beach | thelumberyardgrill.com
Boon’s Treasury
Salem | mcmenamins.com
Café Zenon
Eugene | zenoncafe.com
* Has dog menu/treats
THROW 'EM A BONE
By the numbers
842,912 >>
4,521>>
4,568>>
Dogs in Oregon
Dogs adopted from
the Oregon Humane
Society in 2011
Dog-friendly
trails
courtesy of Lucky Labrador
corn mazes
“Puzzle hedges” have entertained
people across the
globe for at least 400 years.
Exercise your brain and
body this fall in one of many
corn labyrinths scattered
across Oregon farms. The
patterns are truly works of
art, and themes range from
fairy tale to spooky.
courtesy of Rasmussen Farms
Willamette Valley Fruit Co.
Salem | wvfco.com
Bose Family Farm
Albany | bosefamilyfarm.com
The MAiZE
Portland | portlandmaze.com
Val’s Veggies
Baker City | valsveggies.com
Fort Vannoy Farms
Grants Pass | fortvannoyfarms.com
2 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012
Rasmussen Farms
Hood River | rasmussenfarms.com

Lunch - Brunch - Dinner - Sightseeing
Locally, family owned since 1994
Portland Spirit River Cruises
503-224-3900
www.portlandspirit.com
PINOT OBSESSION
PRESENT THIS AD AND RECEIVE A
COMPLIMENTARY TASTING FOR TWO
UPCOMING EVENTS
8/18 Looney Vineyard Release Event at Looney Vineyard
9/1-9/3 Labor Day Weekend Open House
10/27 Red Hills Estate Release Event
11/17 Archery Summit Estate Release Event
11/23-11/25 Thanksgiving Weekend Open House
Call the winery for more information 503.864.4300
OPEN EVERY DAY TILL 4PM / 18599 N.E. ARCHERY SUMMIT RD
DAYTON, OR 97114 / 503.864.4300 / ARCHERYSUMMIT.COM

Goods & Gear
Around Oregon
submit do & see items at 1859magazine.com/notebook
Tailgate
with
Oregon Flair
With spirited Oregonians flying their cartop flags in a universal reminder
of the kickoff of tailgating season, we challenged ourselves to put
together a little parking lot party of our own, but using
only Oregon products. Local beer? No problem.
We were surprised to find how many
other essentials there were for the keepingit-local
tailgater.
HardWear
Beaver Coach | 40-foot dream home on wheels
Bend | beavercoachsales.com
Traeger Grills | Pellet Grill
Wilsonville | traegergrills.com
Made in Oregon | Oregon Love T-shirt
madeinoregon.com
NW Alpine | Spider Hoody
Portland | nwalpine.com
Oregon State University
Athletic T-Shirts | oregonstate.edu
The Fixin's
Oregon Natural Meats | Lean Ground Beef
Eugene | naturalbrewbeef.com
Tillamook | Medium Cheddar Cheese
Tillamook | tillamook.com
Inglehoffer | Stone Ground Mustard
Beaverton | beavertonfoods.com
Eugene City Bakery | Buns
Eugene | eugenecitybakery.com
Barcelona's | Sauces
Bend | barcelonasauces.com
Kettle Chips
Salem | kettlebrand.com
0 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012
The Sauce
Crux Fermentation Project
On The Fence NWPA
Bend | cruxfermentation.com
Ninkasi Total Domination IPA
Eugene | ninkasibrewing.com
Deschutes Brewery Mirror Pond Pale Ale
Bend | deschutesbrewery.com
Terminal Gravity IPA
Enterprise| terminalgravitybrewing.com
BridgePort Kingpin Amber Ale
Portland |bridgeportbrew.com
Cascade Lakes Blonde Bombshell
Bend | cascadelakes.com
Hot Lips Soda | Marionberry
Gaston | hotlipssoda.com
Find grilling recipes at
1859magazine.com/tailgate

THE NORTHWEST’S #1 RIVER TRIP.
Join us on a Rogue River adventure you won’t soon forget!
Just 45 minutes from Ashland, see the beauty and wildlife
of the Rogue, jet through the jaws of historic Hellgate
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Culture
submit cultural items at 1859magazine.com/notebook
Around Oregon
Passage
from a
onprofit
These Oregon literary groups do
more than just put ink to paper.
Fishtrap
Enterprise | fishtrap.org
At the foot of the Wallowa Mountains, Fishtrap offers
writers the opportunity to connect, discuss contemporary
issues and revitalize their writing. There's also a
local lecture series, a community read and a writerin-residence
program for youth and adults.
Sitka Center for Art and Ecology
Neskowin | sitkacenter.org
With a small campus situated at the edge of a
Nature Conservancy on the Coast, this space nurtures
waves of creativity with a workshop, residency
programs, art, writing, science and music.
The Nature of Words
Bend | thenatureofwords.org
NOW provides creative writing instruction for kids
and adults, offers two creative writing competitions,
and produces an annual literary festival the
first week of ovember.
The Wordstock Festival
Portland | wordstockfestival.com
The Northwest’s signature celebration of readers and writers, Wordstock
is a multi-day collection of storytelling events and collaboration
that brings together 15,000 visitors, novelists, poets, artists, filmmakers,
students, readers, and exhibitors to Portland. Wordstock partners with
many literary organizations, and culminates with a two-day festival at
the Oregon Convention Center.
Write Around Portland
Portland | writearound.org
Changing lives through writing, the organization
holds free creative writing workshops in shelters, senior
centers, schools, hospitals, prisons, treatment
facilities and other agencies. Journals, pens, bus
tickets, snacks and childcare are provided.
Writers on the Edge
Newport | writersontheedge.org
incoln Countys preeminent nonprofit literary organization
is best known for its Nye Beach Writers’
Series, featuring visiting authors in all genres, followed
by open mic for writers of all ages.
IN
BOOK
Review
Even his titles are wake-up calls. Pay attention, Oregon Poet Laureate William Stafford tells us
again and again, demanding we stop what we’re doing to bear witness as he did every morning
when he sat down in the dark, “adventuring in the language.” (Writing the Australian Crawl).
For it is important that awake people be awake ... lest the parade of our
mutual life get lost in the dark. - From A Ritual to Read To Each Other
Stafford died in 1993. He published more than sixty books of poetry, including some
of his more popular works, The Darkness Around Us Is Deep and Learning to Live in the
World: Earth Poems. Celebrations of his upcoming hundredth birthday have already begun
as communities throughout the acific orthwest revisit poems about his childhood
in ansas, his years in a conscientious obector camp in California and his attention to
the voices of the land and his “Home State,” Oregon.
2 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012
Reviewed by Claudia Hinz
“You Reading This, Be Ready”
Sometimes whole sides of the world
lean against where you live.
Just being there is a career.
And the danger is in forgetting
that sometime you might go away.
- William Stafford, Home State

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Around Oregon road reconsidered
G
238 Special
Oregon’s Highway in Gold Country
ON A RECENT HISTORIC TROLLEY TOUR IN JACKSONVILLE, the conductor melodiously chattered about filigreed
families and their gingerbread homes, resolute people and the allure of gold. It was the gold, after all, that lured a lot of people
to Jacksonville in the 1850s.
Jacksonville sits astride Highway 238 at about milepost 34. Founded after the discovery of gold in 1851, it soon became a
magnet for 49ers who turned north from the precious metal discoveries in California. It wasn’t just Caucasians who came
north, but also Chinese immigrants who moved north from San Francisco. In fact, discoveries in 2004 confirmed Jacksonville
was home to the earliest Chinese settlements in Oregon.
Gold drove the early economy until it waned. The railroad bypassed the young town, adding to its misfortune, and then
fires took their toll. The C.C. Beekman House, however, survived these curses from the 1870s. Cornelius C. Beekman, a pioneer
banker, built it and moved in his family. His is the only clan ever to call it home. It’s said that in the late 1880s, folks knew
this to be one of the fine homes on “millionaires row,” but its frugal architecture belies the owners’ opulence from his success
as a banker. Every so often the Beekman House is used for living history activities put on by the Jacksonville Heritage Society.
Today, Jacksonville has risen from the ashes. The town’s decision to construct its buildings from brick left us a legacy of
early miners that you can see along Highway 238 in Jacksonville today. Those brick buildings make up the bulk of what’s now
a National Historic Landmark. The district includes many wooden structures that still stand within the oversight
of the Jacksonville Fire Department.
by Peter Murphy
ABOVE Applegate River
near Applegate Bridge.
4 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

oad reconsidered
Around Oregon
A national outdoor music stage is a more recent legacy. Britt Festival
performances take place in the home of Peter Britt, an early photography
pioneer. His estate lies within walking distance of where gold was first
found. The banter of the latest Britt musician dances along Jacksonville’s
sidewalks. “Going to the show?” This night, Tedeschi Trucks Band and its
soul-country-funk fusion were on tap.
The portal to this pastoral drive through the foothills of the Coast
Range is a visual delight. Leaving Jacksonville, the highway twists and
winds northbound toward the lush Applegate Valley, nourished by the
Applegate River and its feeder streams.
The same waters that slaked the thirst of miners and woodsmen now
nourish a new natural bounty, the fruit of the vine. Pioneer vintners have
transformed the valley. Dozens of vineyards and wine tasting rooms fill
the landscape—Valley View, Cricket Hill, Cowhorn, Sanctuary One,
Troon, Schmidt Vineyards, Serra and Wooldridge Creek, to name a few.
G
P
G
Oregon’s Highway 238, from
Jacksonville to Grants Pass, is a
drive through a land of colorful
bounty and emerald hills. The
region that once yielded rich
yellow nuggets is still a magnet
for modern adventurers.
At milepost 25, dozens of paragliders drop in on Longsword Vineyards
to celebrate after a breezy flight from a nearby mountaintop. Many
of these fliers were training for the 2012 National Rat Race Paragliding
Competition in the Applegate Valley, held just down the road at Fiasco
Winery. Longsword winemaker, Matthew Sorenson, welcomes them at
the landing zone. His family started winemaking here in 1999. Sorenson
ditched the big-city lifestyle of Indianapolis for the chance to strike it rich
in Southern Oregon. Longsword’s first vintage was 224 cases. The winery
now produces 2,300 cases. “It’s the best place in the world to grow wine
grapes,” Sorenson says.
Near milepost 16, the Applegate River Ranch House peeks out onto
the serene river of the same name. It’s just as suited for wedding party revelers
as it is a serene romantic dinner for two. The Pioneer Bridge crosses
the river there, a graceful span of steel against the natural surroundings.
There are a few more interesting roadside treasures just a bit farther up
the road. About milepost 11 sits a remnant of history—a small-scale train
that hauled freight to market on an iron rail. The abandoned locomotive
was a mechanical mule for loggers and is now a silent tribute to an era
gone by. Next to it is a long-abandoned shack with the word “antiques”
above the door.
Oregon’s Highway 238, from Jacksonville to Grants Pass, is a
drive through a land of colorful bounty and emerald hills. The
region that once yielded rich yellow nuggets is still a magnet for
modern adventurers.
Things to do on Hwy 238
Jacksonville to Grants Pass
G
Grants Pass
238
5
G PS
R G P 6
S
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Beekman
House in Jacksonville. Historic
buildings solidify Jacksonville as
a National Historic Landmark. The
Applegate country store in the heart
of the valley. Red Lilly Winery.
238
Central Point
Jacksonville
5
Medford
1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

Around Oregon
72 hours
Hours in Corvallis
Fall is the time to descend on the home of
Oregon State University in a three-day return to the land
by Kevin Max
COME FALL, NEARLY 23,000 STUDENTS SWEEP INTO CORVALLIS in earnest matriculation and increase
the local population by nearly half. Campus blazes orange with autumn’s incoming class flying Beavers colors. Inside
Reser football stadium, 45,000 denizens of the Beaver Nation are a kernel of anticipation and anxiety, their hope
measured in first downs and touchdowns. Their memories dazzle with images from the 2008 season, when the team
rallied behind Jacquizz Rodgers, who ran over the first-place USC Trojans to set up a nine-win season.
No matter what the score, no matter what the season, Corvallis is, after all, the cor vallis, Latin for ‘heart of the
valley.’ Verdant hills lie west of town, the Cascade range sits just to the east, and the Willamette River glides slowly
through town. With its mild temperatures, rich soil and ample rainfall, Corvallis is, not surprisingly, also home to
one of the country’s top agriculture schools.
In 1917, while it was still called Oregon Agriculture College and was climbing the ranks as a top science school,
the land-grant Oregon State University became the launch pad for the prolific career of Linus Pauling, a two-time
Nobel Prize winner. Often cited as the “father of molecular biology,” Pauling won the Nobel Prize in Chemistry in
1954, and the Nobel Peace Prize in 1962, for his ongoing opposition to the use of nuclear weapons.
Today Corvallis retains its agricultural roots in its higher learning institutions and among its fertile hills. If you
hold the unpopular belief that tailgating is not an all-day sport, you can find plenty of places to hike, bike and run
before or after heading to Reser Stadium on a long football game weekend.
6 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

72 hours
Around Oregon
ABOVE Fall colors dot the city as
the steely gray Willamette meanders
through Corvallis on a crisp
autumn day. CLOCKWISE One of
the specialties at dim sum restaurant,
Magenta. Magenta outdoor
seating in downtown Corvallis.
Live music at Cloud and Kelly’s
Public House, downtown Corvallis.
BassettStudios.com
DAY
DOWNTOWN • TRAILS • DIM SUM
Downtown Corvallis is a pleasant collection of shops, restaurants and cafes
that can’t adequately be consumed in one day. The core of the downtown
sets up along 1st, 2nd and 3rd streets, with, perhaps, more music shops per
square foot than any other small city in America. There is Grass Roots Books
& Music, Gracewinds Music and Bullfrog Music, to name a few. If you were
dropped from outer space into downtown Corvallis, you might conclude that
OSU was not the engineering and agriculture state university, but the rival
college with a thriving liberal arts program and a large music conservatory.
Tomorrow brings a sedentary stretch of tailgating, drinking, standing and
sitting to watch the game. Thrilling from the neck up, but negligent of the
rest of the body, if done correctly. The antidote is a preemptive run or hike in
McDonald-Dunn State Forest north of town. Out 53rd to Oak Creek Drive,
you come to the trailhead for the McDonald Research Forest—11,250 acres
that Oregon State University’s School of Forestry manages. Here you’ll find
hiking and biking trails, and challenging trail runs with long climbs that will
really have you looking forward to tomorrow’s rest, fest. Past moss-covered
big leaf maples and into old growth stands of Douglas fir, the Patterson Road
trail brings you four miles up to the summit of Dimple Hill. The trees recede
downhill, opening a beautiful panorama of the valley and your photographic
money shot before heading back down.
The best room in town, especially on game day, is the Hilton Garden Inn,
right across from Reser Stadium. The hotel has a bar, a restaurant and, naturally,
a Beaver-themed gift shop. These accommodations are also a good transition
between the peripheral forests, campus and downtown, where one of
the sauciest chefs is busy making dim sum.
Kimber Hoang, Vietnamese but originally from Laos, is the creator of myriad
flavors at Magenta Restaurant on 2nd Street. Hoang’s dim sum menu has
more than forty items that showcase her talent as a saucier: fried wild salmon
with pepper sauce, seared beef tri-tip with wine sauce, fried tilapia with spicy
lime sauce and ricotta cheese ravioli with parmesan dill sauce. Magenta has
a full bar, but that shouldn’t stop you from hitting the downstairs speak-easy,
SNUGbar, after dinner. Any decent bourbon ever barreled resides on the
shelves of the bar. The cozy warmth of this den and its enticing spirits make
for a wonderful nightcap.
photo by Kimber Hoang
BassettStudios.com
photo by David Bassett
photo by Kimber Hoang
1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

Around Oregon
72 hours
DAY
PADDLING • BREWERY • TAILGATING
It’s college game day on an autumn afternoon. The OSU campus is jumping
with excitement and anxiety as the Beavers pull on the pads to battle
rivals they really should dominate, if everything goes as planned in their
home stadium.
Before game-day rituals begin, head out for a serene fall paddle on the
lazy Willamette Water Trail. Corvallis lies along the 200-mile river trail
that flows north from Eugene to the mouth of the Columbia in Portland.
One of the oldest paddling paths in Oregon, the Willamette Water Trail
(willamettewatertrail.org) includes detailed descriptions of good put-in
and take-out points along the river. Peak Sports in downtown Corvallis has
rental recreational kayaks and canoes to accomplish the mission.
After all, most exercise is essentially an offset for “living large.” For the
past couple hours of paddling you’ve unwittingly worked that now-trendy
muscle group between the neck and knees called “the core.” Now it’s time
give a little back with a pre-gater brew or two before heading to the stadium.
Just down the street from Peak Sports is Block 15 Restaurant and Brewery
on Jefferson and 3rd Street. This brewery and restaurant is a showcase of
local and sustainable fare, with a portfolio of at least a dozen beers from
Northwest hops and a creative pub menu based on local meat and produce.
Some historians believe that tailgating began during the American Civil
War in 1861. From the back of wagons, people watched battles, ate and,
perversely, cheered on the soldiers. On November 24, Corvallis will revert
to its own “Civil War” with its 116th match against in-state perennial rival,
the Oregon Ducks. This year, the Beavers will try to muster a win on their
home turf in a series that the Ducks lead 59-46 (with ten draws) since the
rivalry began in 1894.
Under a sea of orange tents, burgers, dogs, sliders, beer and wine is a
tailgate tradition that precedes every home game. As game time nears, students,
alumni and locals, in one massive migration into 45,674 seats, become
a roaring sea of orange and, seen from Google Earth, a grand installation
of public art. As the din of voices grows, this century-old rivalry is once
again under way at kickoff.
CLOCKWISE Inside Block 15
Brewery in Corvallis. First
founded in 185, OSU was
then called Corvallis Academy.
Benton Hall, Oregon
State University.
1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

EXPLORE THE DREAM TO FLY
Evergreen Aviation & Space Museum home of the “Spruce Goose” the behemoth flying boat designed
and flown by Howard Hughes located in McMinnville, Oregon, has a little something for everyone.
Displays ranging from elegant aeronautic designs of two unknown bike mechanics – Orville and Wilbur Wright
– to an actual Lockheed SR-71 Blackbird that can fly at speeds of over 2,000 miles per hour.
Plan a visit, bring the whole family. Year-Round Indoor Waterpark | 200 Aircraft, Spacecraft and Exhibits
Interactive Children’s Exhibits | Event Space Rentals | Museum Store | Wine Tasting
503.434.4185 | WWW.EVERGREENMUSEUM.ORG

Around Oregon
72 hours
DAY
BAKERY • FARM VISIT • HIKING
After yesterday’s indulgence, the final day is all about
getting back to the land.
The local baker has the remedy for all-night tailgating.
Good coffee, a case full of pastries and a breakfast menu
that includes biscuits and homemade sausage gravy, are
specialties at New Morning Bakery on 2nd Street.
Grab your coffee to go, pack an ice chest and head
west on Highway 20 to 53rd Street. Afton Field Farm
(aftonfieldfarm.com) is a 106-acre sustainable farm. Its
young owners, Tyler and Alicia Jones, raise chickens,
sheep, grass-fed beef and hogs. Tyler, a Corvallis native,
was an early understudy with famed farmer Joel Salatin,
who revolutionized rotational grazing and land stewardship.
Load up on Afton Field’s T-bone and New York
steaks, pork chops and bacon. The prices are reasonable
and the quality superb.
If you’re feeling remotely ambitious, there are yet more
hills to climb and balance to restore. Marys Peak, also west
of town and the highest point in the Coastal Range, offers
the challenge of beauty and beast. Wildflowers, natural
meadows and Noble firs comprise some of the show along
the nine-mile East Rim Trail—good for mountain biking,
trail running, a brisk hike or even a simple drive to the
summit. On a clear day from this 4,100-foot vantage point,
you can see to the Pacific Ocean and back to the Cascades
and Corvallis in the heart of the valley.
20
SW 53rd St.
Afton Field Farm
NW Willtham Hill Dr.
NW Walnut Blvd.
SW 35rd St.
NW Harrison Blvd.
SW Campus Way
Oregon State
Campus
SW Western Blvd.
Marysille
Golf Course
NW Van Buren Ave.
Willamette River
Corvallis-Lebanon Hwy.
Towards I-5
WHAT TO DO
Explore Corvallis
WHERE TO EAT
20 Get Beaver Fever at an
OSU football game
Big River Restaurant and Bar
Hilton Garden Inn
Brew BQ
SW 3rd St.
NW 9th st.
NW 4th st.
SW 3rd St.
Pacific Hwy W
34
Crystal Lake Sports
fields and Kendell
Natural Area
Hit Da Vinci Days in July
Go to a Corvallis Knights
baseball game
Shop the Farmers Market
on Wednesdays
del Alma Restaurant & Bar
Magenta
New Morning Bakery
CLOCKWISE Afton Field is a
sustainable farm just west of
Corvallis. A smattering of offerings
available at the farm.
One of the newest members
of the farm, who implores
us to eat more beef. Afton
Field owners, Alicia and Tyler
Jones, at the farm.
WHERE TO STAY
Harrison House Bed &
Breakfast
Leaping Lamb Farm Stay
40 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

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45˚Central_FullBleed_Sept|Oct'12.pdf 1 8/9/12 3:55 PM
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Located in Beaverton at the corner of Murray and J enkins across f rom Nike WH Q
Now Selling! Open daily 12 - 5
Detached homes from $235,000 – $350,000
Condominium lofts starting under $95,000
503.318.9351
4 5 central.com

1859 ine
Around Oregon
restaurant
1859 Dine
review
Steak
photos by Dina Avila
****
***
**
*
Ox
2225 NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., Portland
oxpdx.com
P
R ****
Ox is what happens when two talented chefs come together in a Northeast Portland Argentinian grill. In a small space on Martin
Luther King Jr. Boulevard, Gregory Denton and Gabrielle Quiñonez-Denton, both formerly chefs at Metrovino in the Pearl District,
first opened their venture in April. Ox’s centerpiece is the wood-fired grill that juts into the dining room. The menu is designed for
family-style sharing, though you’ll want to get yours before the family. The small space at Ox brings an intimacy to one of Oregon’s
best, if expensive, steaks. The beef skirt steak ($19/8 oz., $36/16oz.), served as a churrasco, is a savory array of cuts garnished with
radish shavings and diced cilantro. There are other cuts, too—beef ribeye and the grass-fed Uruguayan ribeye, but expect to pay
handsomely. As good as the meat is, start with Ox’s ceviche. These manna from heaven include Oregon bay shrimp, salmon gravlax
and halibut tartare, mussel poke, a scallop salad and a Dungeness crab cocktail. Cocktails are creative, yet not over-the-top, from
La Yapa, a tasty whiskey drink with Fernet Braca, Grenadine and lemon to the sangria blanca with white wine gin, pineapple and
mint. Two red wines from Mendoza further the Argentinian cause, but the rest of the wine list is an eclectic mix from France, Italy,
Oregon and Washington. This place is still young and hot. Service is very good. Call for reservations.
1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012 4

Around Oregon
1859 ine
Smithfields
36 S 2nd Street, Ashland
smithfieldsashland.com
P
R ****
On the hillside of South 2nd Street just off the buzzing plaza that is the heart of
downtown Ashland, Smithfield’s, of British descent, is worth the jaunt. Inside this
quaint-house-turned-restaurant, there is ample seating for a quiet date or larger tables
to share with friends. Local growers are listed on a chalkboard wall that is the face of
the kitchen. We ventured in at lunchtime, and started with the Kettle Chips and roasted
garlic aioli ($4). Smithfield’s offers many British brews, local wines, and some intriguing
house cocktails. There’s the “SOHO,” made with in-house strawberry infused gin, lemon
juice, Cointreau, Prosecco float and a lemon twist. Worth going back for the drink alone.
The Flat Iron steak sandwich with a cup of the house cod chowder ($14) and the shrimp
po’ boy sandwich accompanied by a cup of carrot lemon verbena soup ($14). All were
delicious and portioned relative to their price. For dessert, we opted salted caramel ice
cream with bacon beignets. It was magical to say the least.
Laurelhurst Market
3155 E Burnside Street, Portland
laurelmarket.com
P
R ****
Laurelhurst Market Restaurant and Butcher Shop is casual fare with local flair. Atypical
to most steakhouses, the atmosphere is light and whimsical, with a butcher shop in
the front and a bar in the back. Try the ‘Six in One Hand’ with grapefruit and camomile
grappa ($9). For a starter, try the housemade mozzarella, pulled to order with strawberries
and spiced pistachios ($9). The grilled Painted Hills ribeye with melted blue
cheese butter and fried sweet onion rings ($38) gives all other steakhouses a red ribbon
for second place. It is simply the best ribeye in the city. The Teres Major ($23) with
bearnaise, arugula and pickled red onion is a tender and aromatic alternative to the
ribeye. Side options include fried cauliflower with lemon and caper ($6) and roasted
Viridian Farms’ asparagus with Portland Creamery goat cheese ($7). For dessert, experience
the dulce de leche cheesecake with pistachio and orange blossom syrup ($8.) If
you’re in the market for delectable steak served simply, Laurelhurst Market is a must.
Ox & Fin
105 Oakway Center, Eugene
oxandfin.com
P
R **
The first question Ox & Fin’s friendly waitstaff poses is one not often heard outside of
Europe: “Sparkling or still water?” It’s a classy touch that fits right in with the restaurant’s
upscale vibe and stylish interior. Ox & Fin is the new incarnation of popular
Eugene restaurant, Osteria Sfizio. Rather than focusing exclusively on Italian food,
the owners are offering Northwest cuisine with an Italian twist. The appetizers got
the meal off to a great start. The buratta ($10), a soft, hand-stretched mozzarella, had
amazing texture and wasn’t too heavy. The scallops ($13) were served with a tasty
hazelnut romesco. The wine lists offered quality selections from the Northwest and
all over the world. The rest of the meal, however, didn’t hold up to the promise of the
first course. The short ribs ($21) came with polenta, and the combination was too
heavy. The petit filet ($26) was ordered medium rare and came less than rare. Perhaps
the lamb steak ($21), or the torchio ($18), homemade trumpet-shaped pasta served
with fennel sausage, would have played more to the restaurant’s core strengths. Dessert
needs tweaking, too. The cookie crust of the lemon curd tartlet ($8) was too hard
to get a fork through, and the fruit in the peach and raspberry cobbler ($7) was undercooked.
No doubt, Ox & Fin will work out the kinks over time. The sophisticated
setting and focus on local, organic and GMO-free food could make it a real favorite.
44 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

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Local Habit
Native art,
Mount Angel
Cheryl Strayed +
49
Artist in Residence
P
52 From Where I Stand
54 Top Five
S
P
photo by Andrea Lorimor
Artist in Residence
P

THIS
is
CULTURE
Shirod Younker powers the next generation of Oregonians by taking them
on cultural journeys.
Oregon culture remains as diverse as its people. A donation to the Oregon
Cultural Trust advances thousands of institutions like the Oregon College of Art &
Craft’s A. Susana Santos Journeys in Creativity Program, awarded a Cultural Trust
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Experience Oregon. Donate to the Cultural Trust today. www.culturaltrust.org
Shirod Younker, member of the Coquille Tribe, photographed on the Willamette River by Andy Batt
Media Sponsor:

artist in residence
Local Habit
Returning
to Roots
written by Shirley Hancock
ative American artist illian itt finds her
spirit in clay and among her ancestors
LIKE A BLANKET IN A WOVEN INDIAN BASKET, 4-year-old
Wak’amu would fold herself inside the gnarled roots of an ancient juniper
tree and gaze across the Oregon high desert. What she saw would later inspire
her as Lillian Pitt, one of the world’s most distinguished Native American
artists. Her Indian name, Wak’amu, means camas root. “A stubborn
plant that won’t let go of the earth,” explains Pitt. “I would spend hours up
in those hills—listening to the meadowlark’s song, watching the grass grow,
and the little water skippers on the creek. My art was always inside me.”
Today, Pitt’s contemporary sculptures, prints and wearable art are in
private collections, museums, galleries and public spaces worldwide. Each
piece celebrates the landscape, animals, legends and traditions of her ancestors,
the River People. For 12,000 years they ruled a vast trade network
in the Columbia Gorge—an ancient Wall Street of the West, or as Lewis
and Clark put it, the “Great Mart.” From the Great Plains to Alaska, British
Columbia to California, Indians gathered to trade, socialize and worship.
They fished at the epicenter of their salmon-based economy, Celilo Falls,
then the largest waterfall in North America. Pitt says you could feel the
ground shake before hearing the thunderous rush of water. Celilo fell silent
in 1957, with the construction of The Dalles Dam.
At her home in Southeast Portland, the artist points to a ceramic
mask that evokes her story of survival and redemption. “This is Eagle
Spirit,” she says. “It symbolizes an unwillingness to give up through
strife. We do have a choice, and we don’t have to let all the bad things
stay with us forever. I survived my youth, prejudice, a whole lot of tragedy,
and I’m still here, still creating.”
Pitt was born on the Warm Springs Indian Reservation in 1943,
more than 100 years after the government relocated her ancestors to
inland reservations such as Warm Springs. “We lived in a two-room
cedar and shake house in ‘Hollywood,’” she laughs. “The neighborhood
name, a spoof because we were so poor.” Her father—from
whom she inherits her humor and artistry—worked odd jobs as a police
dispatcher, garbage truck driver, and in the mill. She felt “blessed
and precious” as a child, but “torn.” Her mother, an epileptic, tried to
pass down traditions like beadwork, Indian fry bread, root and huckleberry
feasts, and Washat religious ceremonies in the longhouse. Her
father, though, thought it was dangerous to be “too Indian.”
P
G
P
1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012 4

Local Habit
artist in residence
RIG S
R G P S
N S P
“I wasn’t able to learn my Indian languages because my father, who knew
five, had them beaten out of him, physically and emotionally, at a school for
Indians,” Pitt says.
When Pitt was in sixth grade, her father moved the family to Madras,
hoping to distance his children from the cigarettes and drinking on the
reservation. In town, however, Pitt felt the sting of racism. She recalls that
one of her high school teachers repeatedly told racist jokes about Indians in
class. “I was trying to balance the truth my parents spoke into my soul—
‘you’re smart, so work hard, don’t let your people down’—with the
expectation from others that because you’re Indian, you must
be lazy and a drunk,” she says. “So, I hated school, drank and
smoked. I played hooky, swimming in the farmers’ irrigation
canals, dreaming of being an Olympic swimmer, like
Esther Williams.”
Skimming by with just enough credits to graduate, Pitt
high-tailed it to Portland. For the next twenty years she
worked as a hair stylist.
It wasn’t until she was in her 30s that Pitt would make a
series of decisions that would define her life as an artist. She
enrolled at Mt. Hood Community College, majoring in mental
health and human services and graduating with a 3.8 GPA. “I finally
discovered I actually had a brain,” she laughs. Secondly, she signed up
for a ceramics class. It became an instant obsession. “I would literally
run from mental health class to ceramics,” Pitt says jubilantly. “It was love
at first touch. I loved the way the clay felt and smelled. I studied it, even
dreamt about it.”
Perhaps the most defining moment came one year later in 1982, when
she attended a book-signing by Navajo Indian artist R. C. Gorman. She still
can’t believe she walked up to the man The New York Times called “the Picasso
of American Indian Art,” told him that she was an artist, then handed
him Polaroid pictures of her first ceramic masks.
He asked her the price of her five masks. Pitt told him they were $100
each. “But this one,” she said, “is $110.”
“Why $110?” asked Gorman.
“Because … I like it,” she recalls, with laughter. “That was the extent of my
marketing. He bought two, and now I was a professional artist.” Today her
ceramic masks fetch up to $4,000.
Gorman eventually became a mentor for Pitt, recommending
her work to prestigious galleries in Santa Fe,
L.A. and San Francisco. One day, while visiting his Taos
estate, she was stunned to see her masks hanging not
far from his collections of Picasso, Monet, Chagall,
Renoir and a Warhol painting of Gorman himself.
Inspired, Pitt returned to her elders at Warm
Springs, soaking up the traditions and legends she
missed as a child. She Who Watches, a symbol of female
wisdom and prosperity and a petroglyph still
standing sentinel in the Columbia Gorge, was transformational
for Pitt. “It was like finding myself,” she recalls.
“She Who Watches has been there for a thousand years. She
gave me a sense of power that no one can ever take away.”
Now Pitt passes down those stories, through her art. Little
Wak’amu has become a legend among her people, but her work is
no longer just about the art. Increasingly, you can find Pitt visiting students
at the tiny Celilo Village. Like her elders, she passes down stories and
traditions of a rich heritage. “We have a wonderful history of survival,” she
says. “We’re a tough bunch. We aren’t going away, and we can express that
through art.”
0 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

Take a long walk on the beach.
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Around Oregon
from where i stand
Mount Angel
Small-town Germany and big-time
Oktoberfest define Oregons ount Angel
written by Megan Oliver
photo by Jarib Porter
Mount Angel Sausage Co. owner,
Jim Hoke, on the deck of his
Bavarian-inspired business.
OOM-PAH-PAH MUSIC SAUNTERS OVER on the low beats of tubas—including
Germany’s own Donaumusikanten band—and keeps feet a-tappin’
all day and long into the night. Festival-goers donning dirndls eat schnitzel,
gather in the biergarten and weingarten and partake in massive spontaneous
renditions of the now-traditional chicken dance of Oktoberfest.
Every September, a Bavarian buzz envelopes Mount Angel’s Oktoberfest.
“You really don’t understand Oktoberfest ‘til you come,” says Jim Hoke,
owner of Mount Angel Sausage Company. Indeed, Mount Angel is best seen
through the prism of Oktoberfest. Families open their land to strangers for
camping, and everyone in town pitches in to help with the festival. “It’s a surreal
experience for newcomers,” adds Hoke. Witty and foul-mouthed with a
touch of circumspect philosopher, Hoke embodies the cheerful yet profound
ardor of Mount Angel.
It is here in the tiny town of Mount Angel that you will drink in solidarity
with more than 350,000 Oktoberfest revelers from around the world at one of
the top Oktoberfests outside of Germany. For a town of just more than 3,000
full-time residents, this is quite the feat. Even when Oktoberfest is not on tap,
it is not unusual to see people strolling around town in lederhosen or dirndls,
says Jerry Lauzen, himself clad in lederhosen one summer afternoon.
The original home of Oktoberfest is Bavaria, the largest state in Germany,
with Munich and its Hofbräuhaus at its center. Though only celebrating its
forty-seventh year in its German form, a harvest celebration has taken place
in Mount Angel since 1878, when flax was the primary crop. After World War
II, the United States demand for flax waned—and so did the harvest celebrations.
Dairies replaced flax farms and Dairy Days became the main event.
That, too, was short-lived because knocking back glasses of whole milk didn’t
really stoke the fires of jubilation.
Finally in 1966, the town with strong Bavarian roots came full circle with a
true Oktoberfest tradition. Paul deShaw, a local Bavarian chalet owner, was
the brains of the operation. His motto: “delivering happiness,” is a phrase that
well suits festival-goers and organizers to this day.
Traditional German beers with consonant-heavy names flow like water around
town. American Hefeweizen holds its own, too. Shockingly, in a state of microbreweries,
there is no local Mount Angel brew (apart from root beer-maker,
Mount Angel Brewing Company). There is, however, sausage.
Mount Angel Sausage Co. founder, Hoke, started his business in an old warehouse
twelve years ago after a visit to Oktoberfest from his home in Salem. “I nearly
fell over when I realized there was no sausage in a Bavarian town,” he says
of Mount Angel. With the help of his son, James Jr., Hoke has transformed
the building into a huge pub and sausage distributor. The younger Hoke is
2 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SP 2012

from where i stand
Around Oregon
now largely running the family business after eight years of apprenticeship.
This type of small family business is typical industry in Mount
Angel. Locals have kept an affinity for the land and nature, even after
the agricultural industry largely left town. Earthly bounty is the
focus of Oktoberfest. “We do the whole bio thing, ya know,” mentions
Hoke. His meat is hormone-free and from nearby Butcher
Block Farms in Wilsonville.
Settlers first arrived in what would be Mount Angel during the
1850s, followed closely by German Catholic groups in 1867. That same
year, a Catholic leader named Mathias Butsch advertised the land as
“a slice of Bavaria in the West” in German language newspapers in the
American Midwest region.
The completion of the railroad in 1880, a church in 1881 and
the arrival of a Swiss community of Benedictine monks from
Engelberg soon thereafter, added permanence to the town. Rapid
growth resulted in four township names in three years. Mount
Angel, the English translation of Engelberg, became the official
moniker under the influence of the Benedictine monks and was
incorporated in 1893.
Today, the Benedictine Sisters’ Queen of Angels Monastery (guided
tours available) and Mount Angel Abbey sit atop Long Butte in
Saint Benedict (complete with its own post office), overlooking rolling
hills of Mount Angel and the mid-Willamette Valley for miles.
The Abbey’s captivating grounds, two museums and a 370,000-volume
research library are open to the public. The library, designed by
legendary Finnish architect, Alvar Aalto, is itself an attraction to students
and admirers of his work.
Steeped in a history of voluntarism, Mount Angel is a model for
community service. One hundred years ago, skilled volunteers gifted
in various trades built the Revival Gothic-style church, Saint Mary
Church. Today, architecture tourists and worshippers alike come to
marvel at its stained glass windows and breathtaking archways.
The Edelweiss building, the town’s cornerstone of old German
gingerbread architecture, houses the Glockenspiel, and was also
built by local craftsmen. The giant cuckoo is turned on at a whim
any day of the year. Music booms and life-size statues of the major
historical folks of the area tell a visual story of Mount Angel history.
Figures of the native Kalapuya Indians, the civil and religious
city founders, and the European-descended celebrators of Oktoberfest—young
and old—take turns as the center of attention.
A true folk festival, Oktoberfest is a nonprofit organization.
Other than funding for the construction of a new venue called the
Festhalle and operating costs, all proceeds go to local charities and
nonprofit organizations, with more than $3 million donated to the
community since the festival’s inception.
In keeping with the deep history of service in the community,
sausage-maker Hoke says he wants to leave Mount Angel and the
world “better than I found it.”
photo by Jarib Porter
Mt.Angel
Mount Angel is the German
cultural center of Oregon,
with a small community that’s
all-in come Oktoberfest.
Courtesy of Mount Angel Oktoberfest
Courtesy of Mount Angel Oktoberfest
CLOCKWISE A collection of beer steins at the
Glockenspiel Restaurant. Jim Hoke’s side project,
a mobile sausage cart. Edelweiss building
cornerstone, the Glockenspiel, with restaurant
on first floor. Traditional dancing at Oktoberfest.
INFO
Population of Mount Angel
3,285
Population growth (2000-2010)
5.3%
Median household income
$42,924
Median single-family home price
$206,400
WHAT TO DO
Enjoy A schnitzl or some spätzl
Drink Spaten on tap
Visit Saint Mary Church
photo by Jarib Porter
1859 oregon's mAgAzine SP 2012

Local Habit
top 5
TOP 5
Cheryl Strayed’s Top 5 pieces of advice to
those venturing onto the acific Crest Trail
Cheryl Strayed was 2 when she stripped down her life to a backpack and hiked the Pacific Crest Trail, four
years after her mother died of cancer at the young age of 5. No answers came out of that journey except
a new resolution to go on. A good amount of writing followedincluding and her
most recent , both of the bestselling flavor. is a compelling memoir of letting go
and going on along the PCT. Now living in Portland, Cheryl Strayed shares some wisdom for those venturing
onto the Pacific Crest Trail.
SIZE MATTERS
At least when it comes to shoes. Trust me
on this. You’ll be happy to finish your hike
with all ten toenails.
GO ALONE
Even if only for an afternoon. It’s wonderful
to hike with family and friends, but
something different happens when you’re
is alone on the trail. The solitary mind wanders
in directions that conversations can’t.
REALLY GO ALONE
No phones or music or anything that enables
you to tweet Hey, I’m on the PCT
Disconnect from your technological toys so
you can connect with something else the
glorious cacophony of the wild. When you
do that, you can hear the stream running
deep in the gully beyond view. You can hear
the birds in the trees. You can hear yourself.
BRING CHOCOLATE
Or whatever feels like a reward to you. It
tastes better with trail dust on it.
photo by Joni Kabana
4 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012
WALK INTO THE DARKEST WOODS
WITHOUT A STICK
By which I mean the best, most important
things require us to push bravely into the
unknown. Do that even if it scares you a
little though you might want to bring a
trekking pole.

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Ventures
Laurence
Bennett on the
beauty of film
58 Into the Soul
60 e Profile
S
62 What I’m Working On
R R
64 Game Changers
NS
photo by Ezra Marcos
Into the Soul
Butte Creek Mill’s
antiques and grains.

In-Grained in Tradition
written by Chelsea Fine
photo by Ezra Marcos
“I HAVE ALWAYS WANTED TO OWN a historical
building,” says Butte Creek Mill owner and operator,
Bob Russell, as he strolls through his water-driven mill
in Eagle Point. The retired sales manager from Portland
crossed over the battered metal threshold of the
once-dilapidated mill in 2005 and knew he was home.
Russell, who is also mayor of Eagle Point, and his wife,
Debbie, together run the Butte Creek Mill, mercantile,
and adjacent antiques store seven days a week.
“I have been a collector since I was 9 years old,” explains
Russell as he stands in his office, surrounded
by a lifetime of storied artifacts. “I always wanted a
country store to display my country store collection.”
When the couple bought the mill, they were the
fifth owners in the mill’s 140-year history. Listed on
the National Register of Historic Places as “the last
water-powered grist mill still operating this side of
the Mississippi,” the former Snowy Butte Mill still
grinds thousands of pounds of wheat with the original
2,800-pound mill stones imported from Paris in 1872.
A portion of Little Butte Creek flows through a
millrace to the basement of the mill, where a turbine
generates power for a series of belts and gears.
All of the mill’s products come from farms in Oregon,
Idaho and Montana.
Not only have the Russells renovated the mill
and surrounding buildings, they also cleaned up
the riparian zones around Little Butte Creek. Over
the past few years, salmon have returned to spawn
along the creek’s bed.
Find utte Creek ill flours, pancake mixes and
other products at the mill, at specialty stores or
online at buttecreekmill.com.

Kevin Carolan, independent thinker
on The Dish and The Spoon, independent film
OCT.11.12 - OCT.14.11
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OCT. 11.12 - OCT. 14.12
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Combined with the passionate and creative spirit inherent in our vintners, Medford & The Rogue Valley is a wine lover’s paradise.
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Ventures
usiness prole
SeQuential Fuels
the Next Generation
Biofuel manufacturer grows with
demand for plant-based power
written by Jennifer Hughes
photos by Aubrie LeGault
Sequentials COO, Alan Twigg,
and founder, Ian Hill right,
show off the green roof of their
flagship station in Eugene.
IN EUGENE, TWO ROYAL BLUE and
goldenrod yellow SeQuential Biofuels stations
stand out among a sea of Shell, 76 and
Chevron gas stations. The latter group is of
the typical gas-and-go variety with unleaded
outside and trans-fat snacks on the inside.
The other sells biodiesel, yerba mate and organic
produce under a green roof.
SeQuential BioFuels is Eugene’s greenest
fueling station and is ground zero for cutting-edge
alternative fuels while also turning
organic food into roadside convenience
snacks. In the ordinary filling station, the gas
is petroleum based and the fats sit on the
shelves. At SeQuential, the fats and greases
are in the pump and comprise the mostly
soy-based fuel.
Fed up with “Big Oil”, Thomas Endicott, Ian
Hill and Tyson Keever began making biodiesel in Hill’s garage in 2000, using
leftover cooking oil collected from restaurants. Local demand for their
biodiesel grew dramatically, and in 2004, they teamed with Pacific Biodiesel
to open Oregon’s first commercial-scale biodiesel production plant.
SeQuential takes in Oregon-grown canola and waste vegetable oils
from the region, and converts this feedstock into biodiesel through a process
known as “transesterification.” The result is a cleaner burning fuel that
is biodegradable. Its byproduct is carbon dioxide, the same compound
animals exhale. The tailpipe emissions from a petroleum-burning engine,
by contrast, are carbon monoxide; smog’s main component, nitrous oxide
and unburned hydrocarbons.
Today SeQuential has its own oil processing plant and a fleet of thirty
biofueled trucks that collect oils in Western states. The company’s biodiesel
plant in Salem produces 17 million gallons of biodiesel fuel per year.
That fuel is multiples less carbon-intensive than petroleum diesel, making
it one of the lowest carbon fuels commercially available in the United
States. Additionally, SeQuential Pacific Biodiesel is a zero-waste facility,
deploying a proprietary process that produces no waste water, and generates
heat and power from heavy fats and oils that cannot be processed.
Atop it all is a distillation column to capture and re-use methanol released
in the process. This facility provides fuel for a network of nearly
seventy consumer retail stations.
Thousands of plants grow on its flagship rooftop in Eugene. Inside, dozens
of local food products from more than seventy-five local companies
fill the shelves. Fresh sandwiches, organic coffee and pastries from nearby
Sweet Life Patisserie give a fresh twist on convenience food. One filling
station’s sandwich special is made from Applegate ham, local gluten-free
bread and organic produce.
In addition to the living roof, half of SeQuential’s annual electricity
needs are supplanted by its passive solar building design.
Both federal and state tax credits and mandates have played a role in
the creation and viability of alternative fuel companies. In 2007, the State
of Oregon created a business energy tax credit (BETC) to aid in the development
and distribution of alternative energy resources. Under this program,
the state successfully courted solar panel manufacturers, electric
car makers, wind power projects and biofuel manufacturers.
“We have a state level mandate for a renewable fuel standard, which
stipulates five percent biodiesel of all diesel sold in Oregon, and it doesn’t
stipulate where that biodiesel must come from,” Hill says. “We still compete
to fill that demand. Competition is good; it’s not a handout from the
government at all, by any stretch of the imagination.”
As part of a wide-ranging renewable energy portfolio, Oregon law requires
all gasoline retailers to blend their petroleum fuel with 10 percent
ethanol. Oregon also offers residents a state income tax credit up to $200
for documented use of high blends of biodiesel.
While Hill and Keever have witnessed other biodiesel companies shooting
for the moon and failing, their approach is moderate growth. Their focus
is to create high-quality, low-emission fuel products for Oregonians and
the Pacific Northwest—with or without government assistance.
“From the beginning we’ve been very determined to develop a business
that will thrive without any government programs or incentives,
and we feel like we’re certainly on our way to that,” says Hill. “We are
out to create something that is really sustainable, and we want it to be
around for our grandkids.”
60 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

SUNSET AUDI
FULL PAGE AD

Ventures
what i'm working on
Laurence Bennett
interview by Shirley Hancock
LEAN AND TAN, LAURENCE BENNETT LOOKS EVERY BIT THE MOVIE STAR. But as a production
designer, Bennett is actually the wizard behind the lens. We all have a sense of what a cinematographer,
an editor and a director does, but the production designer’s role is often cloaked in
mystery. Bennett’s job is what he calls “the artistic author, responsible for bringing to life the entire
world the characters inhabit on film. ennetts film and T credits include the ust-released
The Company You Keep and five-time Academy Award-winning The Artist, as well as Crash,
The Valley of Elah, Freedom Writers, The Next Three Days, reys Anatomy and Streets.
We caught up with Bennett at his restored 1904 farmhouse in Estacada. Here, with his wife,
Nina, and a menagerie, Bennett is able to recharge.
Your latest movie is the star-packed The Company
You Keep (Robert Redford, Shia LaBeouf, Susan Sarandon,
Stanley Tucci and Sam Elliott). What was it
like to work with one of your idols, Robert Redford?
The experience of working with a filmmaker whom I’ve watched
on screen for so long, and admire so greatly—professionally and
personally—was extraordinary. Redford is incredibly collaborative
and very visual; he studied art, painted for some time, and his wife,
Sibylle, is a painter. We spent time looking at and discussing imagery
in photographs and paintings to set the tone. We spent even
more time discussing the script. That’s what we keep coming back
to in pursuit of what the picture needs to be, how it needs to look.
For one set in particular that had great emotional significance
to the characters and story, Bob [Redford] and I traded sketches
about how it might be laid out, oriented in the landscape, and what
physical attributes it should have. I found Andrew Wyeth’s work
a touchstone for that set. A quintessentially American artist, he
imbued even the most simple buildings and objects with history,
subtext and resonance.
Can the discerning viewer recognize a Laurence
Bennett movie? Are there certain consistencies?
I honestly don’t know that I’m the right person to answer that. While
there are, of course, ongoing influences on my work, each film is
unique in story, setting and tone. I would hope that the design for
each responds to its particular needs of subject, themes and period.
photo by Andrea Lorimor
You say that production designers have the least understood
jobs in the cinematic arts, yet aren’t they the
most important in terms of how we feel when we walk
out of the theater?
As one of the visual authors, along with the director and cinematographer,
the production designer is responsible for the look of the film. The
PD deals with set design, locations, set dressing, props and interfaces
with costume, hair, makeup, special effects, stunts and visual effects.
Art direction is, I think, the least understood of the cinematic arts because,
if a movie is good, the design can easily go largely unnoticed. Our
job is to imagine and create a living, breathing, believable world for the
story—to support and enhance the story. If the viewer is brought into
that world, we have succeeded.
62 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

what i'm working on
Ventures
photo by Doane Gregory
RIG R R
S I P S S
photo by Andrea Lorimor
photo by Andrea Lorimor
there efi oet he o e o ere
made to work in movies?
No, rather, it was an evolution. Through my work and exploration of the arts, I was
fortunate to discover what I should be doing, and how I could apply all my experience
and interests to my role in filmmaking.
You log thousands of miles traversing the globe, working
th Alt tor he o hoe to oet r
house in Estacada. Why here?
I have lived and worked in Oregon for periods of time over the past forty years,
and Nina and I have lived in Estacada for seventeen. I’m blessed to have a life full
of travel, typically on the road eight months a year. But life in Oregon provides a
focus and grounding that I rely on and treasure. We enjoy a rich quality of life in
the Northwest, surrounded by landscape that nurtures and inspires.
One of the most interesting questions you say you’ve ever
been asked came recently, from an Estacada High School
student who wondered whether you live your life through
the filter o fil ht o tell her
To take just one example, I asked her if she perhaps recognized ways in which her
concept of love and romance had been formed through movies. I’ve no doubt that
modern consciousness has been largely shaped by cinema.
o ho h fil he or le
I believe that film, like all art, has the ability to transform self and society. Film
has the capacity to engender empathy, to allow people to see commonality
where they had previously only seen difference.
I’m blessed to work at something that I love—being part of telling stories, entertaining
people, and hopefully inspiring and sometimes challenging them. I
travel widely, and have the chance to go backstage into peoples’ lives and jobs,
and to experience richness, beauty and diversity of life in our time. I know that
cinema has enriched my life beyond words.
o rerle oee o ll o th oing
right” must happen to make a good movie. What is an
ele o tht or fil
Howard Hawks on what makes a good movie: “Three great scenes, no bad ones.”
A good movie begins with a good script. But everything else that goes into its
making has to be spot-on as well. Every decision, large or small from everyone
involved, contributes to how well it is realized. Not an easy feat.
And then to be successful, it has to be distributed and marketed well. I’ve done
two indies that enjoyed significant success. While making Crash and The Artist,
all those involved who brought their talent, commitment and passion to the
projects sensed that we were making films that just might be very good. But both
films’ paths to recognition were against incredible odds.
For your work on The Artist, you received an Academy
Award nomination, and you won the César (the French version
of the Academy Awards). Was your job more challeng-
ee t let fil
We did a tremendous amount of testing and research, the most important of
which was watching film of the era. There are such beautiful movies from the
teens and ’20s. I’d been quite familiar with the work of Chaplin, Keaton and
others, but was introduced to masterpieces by Murnau, Vidor, Lang, and Von
Sternberg.
We tried to emulate styles of films from the period, certainly. But one of the
things I was most keen to have my team see and appreciate was the fun that
those pioneers of film were having. They were inventing the language of cinema,
and at the same time inventing the business—how films were made. I encouraged
everyone who worked with me to identify with that spirit of playfulness
and inventiveness.
What’s next for Laurence Bennett?
I just got back from three-and-a-half weeks in Italy, scouting locations and assembling
a crew for a film with my friend, writer-director Paul Haggis. Third
Person (Liam Neeson, Olivia Wilde) comprises three stories about relationships,
each set in a different city: Rome, Paris and NYC.
To read the extended interview with Laurence Bennett,
go to 1859magazine.com/Bennett.
1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012 6

Ventures
game changers
“Helping children began the process
of making NextStep grow into a larger
nonprofit organiation. I knew what I
had done was a wonderful thing.”
—ORRAI RWOO, TST FOR
One woman’s story of
perseverance and compassion
DURING LORRAINE KERWOOD’S FIRST YEAR at Lane Community
College, she bought a new computer, only to have it crash. She remembers
approaching the problem with relentless drive. “I tried to fix it myself, but
instead of pulling out the main power supply,” she says, “I managed to damage
my hard drive. I turned to the Internet and found regular people, just
like myself, who gave me everything I needed to know about how to repair
my computer,” Kerwood recalls.
Ironically, one of her most helpless moments would eventually compel
her to fix discarded computers all over campus.
She began to envision her startup. “The idea came out of my own experience
in not knowing how to use a computer and needing to return to
school,” she says. Having worked on a farm, as a nurse’s aid, as a dishwasher
and as a housekeeper, Kerwood had no professional need for computers.
Since most jobs today require some level of computer literacy, she found
herself playing catch-up in computer training courses.
At age 30, she was diagnosed with Asperger’s Syndrome. The obsessive-compulsive
aspect of Asperger’s Syndrome, combined with a
growing societal dependence on technology, however, brought focus to
her life. She became an adept student by quickly absorbing techniques
64 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012
written by Shawnell Tolliver
photo by Ariane Kunze
and skills in her computer classes. “Amazingly, research has found that
people who fall on the autism spectrum do very well with technology,”
she says. “To my absolute surprise, I excelled the most in my college
computer courses.”
In her garage, she began laying the groundwork for her startup, taking
in broken Mac computers, repairing them and giving them to underprivileged
kids and adults. “Helping children began the process of making
NextStep grow into a larger nonprofit organization,” Kerwood says. “I
knew what I had done was a wonderful thing.”
She founded NextStep, a nonprofit that refurbishes broken computers
and then sells them to consumers or donates them to underprivileged
communities. NextStep also offers computer literacy programs for children
and adults who are living in poverty, as well as the disabled and marginalized.
In addition, NextStep accepts referrals from social services and
local school districts for the computer programs.
Today, the nonprofit takes in an estimated four million pounds of recycling
a year, recycles two million electronics and refurbishes 2,300 computers
a year. Its 3,500-square-foot facility houses thirty-five employees,
fourteen volunteers and 150 trainees whose functions range from accepting
and sorting electronics to making repairs themselves. NextStep offers
classes such as basic computer use and cloud computing, the same sorts of
classes that gave Kerwood her start.
Kerwood went on to graduate magna cum laude from the University of
Oregon and earned a masters degree in social work from Portland State
University. Twenty years later, Kerwood now sees life’s obstacles as an opportunity
to accept new challenges. Her relentless optimism, compassion
for others and propensity for problem solving led her to start the first nonprofit
computer-recycling center in Eugene.
NextStep now has two locations, one for donations and repair, the other
a ReUse store. Eventually, Kerwood hopes to bring NextStep’s services to
other Oregon communities and across the United States. “Our model is
very replicable,” notes Kerwood. “Still, there needs to be the same motivation,
knowledge and passion that we have found here.”
NextStep’s business model is, itself, a recycled program, transformed
from BRING, a nonprofit recycle center for surplus building materials.
Julie Daniel, director at BRING, mentored Kerwood in the early stages
of the organization. “Running a community-based nonprofit like Next-
Step requires vision, heart, intelligence, grit and—perhaps most of all—
an undaunted ‘yes, we can mentality,’” says Daniel. “Lorraine exemplifies
those qualities. She inspires others to go beyond their limits by continuously,
and successfully, stretching her own.”
HOW TO HELP
nextsteprecycling.org | 541.461.7305

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the
CRUSH

written by Kevin Max
photos by Tim LaBarge
Inside the
latest harvest>>>
OREGON
PINOT
COUNTRY

ine Crush
INEMAKERS WERE PACING THE VINES, checking the weather
reports constantly, hoping sunshine would prevail for a spell—just
long enough to goose the sugar level in this Pinot noir harvest. At
Vista Hills Vineyard, winemaker Dave Petterson was beyond his
comfort zone. It was already weeks beyond a typical harvest date
and yet the crop hung in the cool fall rain and fog.
If he waited much longer to pull the grapes, frost would kill them.
If he picked them now, they could miss a couple of crucial days of
sun. It was nearly November. This multi-million-dollar crop dripped with the heightened
possibility of failure.
It wasn’t just Petterson and fellow-wine growers in the Willamette Valley feeling the
anxiety. Vineyards from Washington down through Northern California were three to
four weeks late in a growing season that, at least in the Willamette Valley, is planned
around 120 frost-free days.
“It was the most difficult harvest I’ve encountered,” says Gary Horner, Erath Vineyards’
winemaker for nearly twenty-five years. “We were looking for answers. … Quite
frankly what I saw coming down the track was a freight train.”
Through September and October, an anxious waiting game began across Oregon’s
850 vineyards and 20,000 acres of grapes. Sugar levels remained stubbornly low. “It
was crazy how not busy we were,” Petterson says.
At Adelsheim Vineyard, interns from abroad came on work visas to learn the winemaking
business during a harvest. Their visas expired, and they left receiving little
more than learning patience and how to clean idle implements.
Weather forecasters, meanwhile, were having one of their busiest years. The whole
agriculture industry in the Pacific Northwest and Northern California—growers of
hay, wheat, hops, apples, pears—was bemused. “We kept updating the weather reports
daily,” says Adelsheim winemaker, Dave Paige. “I’m surprised we didn’t crash the
Weather.com site with all the Oregon winemakers that year.”
the
process
pick
transport
to facility
sort +
de-stem
6 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

ANXIOUS
WAITING
GAME...
white
barrel
fermentation
wooden
barrel
aging
bottling

ine Crush
11.02.11} THE LATEST HARVEST IN THE
FIFTY-YEAR MODERN HISTORY OF OREGON
0 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

ine Crush
WINEMAKING
The prior year was a tough one, too. In 2010, grapes on the vine broke into bloom perhaps
two weeks later than most viticulturists wanted, setting the farmers’ internal clocks
forward to when the first fall frost might come. True, this is Oregon, where people talk
about the unpredictable growing season with the same lack of alarm as Tuesday. For farmers,
though, the weather can mean feast or famine.
As tenuous as that year was, Petterson considered 2010 merely a warm-up for what he
was facing in 2011. He had begun making wine ten seasons ago, with his first solo vintage
in 2008 only three years gone. “That was a dream year,” Petterson recalls. “The summer was
on the cool side, not super rainy, and it was followed by a warm, dry August and October.
It was great … and it was the complete opposite of 2011.”
Behind the scenes at Oregon’s latest wine crush on the books, activities resembled the
many harvests that preceded it, but, in some respects, this year was unlike anything winemakers
had experienced before.
After the biggest gamble of many winemakers' lives, the harvest began in the Pacific
Northwest. In McMinnville’s Pinot Quarter, or what winemakers affectionately call the
"Pinot Ghetto," grapes arrived at a grouping of warehouses, grain elevators and other
buildings, which were once dedicated more to carbohydrates than to grapes. Among the
wines produced here are Panther Creek, R. Stuart, Domino IV and special one-off projects
of winemakers in a couple of nondescript buildings.
Panther Creek’s production facility is a handsome 1923 McMinnville electric station
constructed with brick—yet showered with light from two knee-to-roof arching train depot
windows. The mood is remarkably upbeat. This facility houses a commune of winemakers
and industry workers this time of year. There is Michael Stevenson, who makes
wine for Panther Creek; Petterson and Mark Stock, who make wine for Vista Hills; Martha
Karson, a retired psychology professor from Michigan State University who works with
Vista Hills; and Robert Blasier, a traveling winemaker with a goal of making six wines in
five different countries.
It is now November 2nd and the latest harvest in the fifty-year modern history of Oregon
winemaking is finally under way—all part of a crush tradition thousands of years
in the making.
One of the earliest incarnations of a wine crush dates to 4,100 B.C in Migdal Haemek,
a small village in northern Israel. In January 2011, a team of archaeologists from University
of California at Los Angeles, working with Irish and Armenian scientists on the
site, discovered a rectangular basin with a small ledge on the uphill side and drainage
holes on the downhill side. The international team had found what they believe to be
the world’s oldest wine press. In the first gravity-fed press, these ancient people stomped
grapes with their bare feet. The grape juice would flow downhill and into a collection
basin through holes that were stuffed with grasses and bushes that acted as a natural
filter. Perhaps the juice fermented in these basins or was collected in earthenware jugs
and taken to a cellar for fermentation.
Today, the process has remained functionally the same, though machines play the primary
role and bare feet play only a negligible fetish role in production. Gravity, however,
remains a key force in production.
In large wooden or plastic bins, the fruit arrives at Panther Creek by truck and is forklifted
onto an electric “tipper,” with stainless steel arms whose angle can be continuously
adjusted to allow more or fewer grapes to slip down onto a conveyor belt. It’s on this
production line that crush workers perform their first acts—identifying and tossing out
unripe grapes, grape bunches with “ear” clusters that don’t grow as well and those obviously
infected with Botrytis, or “bunch rot,” a fungus that kills yeast during the crucial
fermentation process.
Martha Karson gently pulls the joystick and the perfect pinecone-shaped clusters of
Pinot noir grapes roll past her and fall into a machine that crushes them and separates
them from their stems. After a splash of sulfur dioxide, used as an anti-microbial and as a
perserving agent thorughout a wine's aging process, the resulting grape juice is then stored
inside the facility in large bins, where it will remain until fermentation has run its course.
From these bins, Petterson draws wine samples into an arm’s length syringe then
1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012 1

ine Crush
takes them back to a small room with a workbench to perform tests and
record results. Petterson will check temperature, pH and sugar levels to
monitor the progression of the wine.
This testing is constant. The fermentation process begins slowly,
then picks up velocity and throws off heat in the process. A winemaker
must catch this balance at the right moment in the arc of fermentation
to capture the wine’s ideal alcohol level. If the fermentation happens
too quickly, it raises the temperature of the wine to a level that harmful
bacteria like. Too little fermentation and the wine teeters on the sweet
side—not a good outcome for a distinguished Oregon Pinot noir.
Among these open vessels is where Bailey, Panther Creek’s recently
rescued beagle, and cold workers chilled from the crush, find time to
linger in the warmth of the fermentation process. In the basins of Pinot
noir-in-the-rough, grape skins rise to the surface on carbon dioxide
bubbles and form a surprisingly dense pancake, or cap, over the juice
below. Not quite wine yet, this combination of juice and skins, called
"the must" (from the Latin vinum mustum, or young wine), will remain
in open vats until the sugar has been consumed.
At least twice a day, winemakers break up the cap of the must on the
fermenting vats with a hoe-like implement and force the skins back to
the bottom. This physical “punch down” helps keep the skins wet to
prevent bacteria buildup, aids in fermentation and helps ensure a consistent
and familiar deep red color throughout the batch. Wine gets its
color from the grape's skin.
When fermentation is complete and tests show the Pinot noir to
be in a range of 12.5 percent to 14.5 percent alcohol, the wine is then
moved into oak barrels to age for ten to sixteen months before being
bottled and sold. During this time, winemakers will constantly taste the
wines to assure their quality. It’s in this phase when a winery will often
invite its regular patrons to private barrel tastings to receive their feedback.
Finally, winemakers will test the 2011 vintage against the public
palate in a moment of truth.
In France, the competitive winemaking industry is cloaked in mystery
and centuries-old secrets running through their vines. Wine is
thicker than blood. Here in Oregon, the process is less secretive and
more of a giant cooperative. The harvest and the crush brings people
together for traditional and, at least at Adelsheim, unusual events.
At Panther Creek, many winemakers work together, share ideas and
regularly sit down around one large table for a lunch that includes Professor
Karson’s wonderful soup from local produce, flakey bread and a
homemade dessert. With these meals, the retired psychology professor
has learned how to heal the body as much as the mind.
During the crush, Maria Stuart, the wife of Rob Stuart of R. Stuart
& Co. Winery, invites the crew to their house for dinner nearly every
night of production. On this November evening, Maria has gone
to the trouble of baking chicken in a white wine sauce with poblano,
squash and kale. “Harvest dinners really exemplify why we do what
we do,” says Maria. “Good people gathered around a table of hearty
food and interesting wines—that's why we got in to this crazy business
and that's why we stay.”
Pinot noirs are the subject around the table as different bottles, as well
as other varietals, are sampled and discussed. One of the Stuart children
comes up from an errand in the cellar with a mistakenly expensive
bottle of wine that somehow slips into general consumption before
Rob detects it. One boy’s error is an older boy's delight.
2 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

COMMUNITY
1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

At Sokol Blosser Winery, an old saying speaks of a time-honored tradition. “It
takes a lot of beer to make good wine,” says Alison Sokol Blosser. Sometimes the
beer is a favorite Oregon IPA, sometimes it’s not. Makers of Oregon’s finest wines
can also be found at McMinnville’s Deluxe Billiard Parlor (locally, “The D”) during
crush, knocking back the latest vintage of Coors, PBR or Budweiser.
Back at Adelsheim, crush traditions are more experimental. A couple of years
ago, they challenged the Ponzi Vineyards crew to a crab derby on the coast. The
Ponzi crab trappers proved too skilled for the Adelsheim team. Last year, however,
the Adelsheim crew changed tactics and found a vulnerable opponent. This began
the first annual trampoline dodgeball tournament against the Domaine Serene
harvest crew. Gina Hennen, the assistant winemaker at Adelsheim, had the homecourt
advantage, having taken trampoline aerobics classes at this Tigard venue. Domaine
Serene countered with a sure-handed soccer goalie, a “ringer,” Adelsheim's
Paige contested. The losing team would do the honors at the local bar. In the end,
Adelsheim overwhelmed Serene and drank in the spoils.
ALL OVER BUT THE VINTAGE
After the last grapes are processed, winemakers are happy to put the anxiety of
2011 behind them. What must have been one of the most challenging years in their
careers could further enhance their global reputation as formidable winemakers
when the vintage is bottled.
“I doubt they’ll set the world on fire, but they will be softer,” says Petterson. “I hope
that people will stop panicking in cool years and realize that Oregon can make good
wines in cool years and warm years.”
For Adelsheim’s Paige, the lesson of 2011 had its seeds in the prior year, which also
was a late harvest. “Everyone is saying that 2010 is really good," he says. "We only
have to look back that far. It was hailed as a miracle. It wasn’t a miracle. If you have a
great site and you know how to do your job and do it well, you’re going to have good
wine. The French have been telling us this for years.”
4 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

the
completion
enjoy
"Good people gathered around a table
of hearty food and interesting wines-
that's why we got into this crazy
business and that's why we stay." Maria Stuart
1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

12 Months of planning 30 miles walked 4 Days along the Salmon River
Headwaters
to Sea

One man's profound story of
hiking the Salmon River's watershed
from origin to ocean
IT ALL STARTED WITH A CRAZY QUESTION. Could I find the headwaters of the river I’ve lived next
to for six years and walk from there to the sea?
The Salmon River is the perfect playground for exploration as it curls up against the coast range in a thirtymile
long question mark, forming one of the coast’s shortest river systems. I became acquainted with it by
poring over maps and satellite photos and interviewing hunters, loggers and agency personnel in the area. It
took three tries before I reached its source, on the side of Saddle Bag Mountain.
I was accompanied on different legs of this four-day adventure by Scotty Evens, an ex-river guide and hunter;
Matt Delaney, a forester; Katie Brem, a native plant specialist; Paul Engelmeyer and a coastal lands conservation
expert; Rob Hollingsworth, chiropractor and expedition planner; and videographer, Ian Hietz. The
following pages tell the story of our watershed expedition in journal entries and photographs. They are also
a biography and tribute to the living system we call a watershed.
written and photographed
by
Duncan Berry

DAY ONE:
THE HEADWATERS
At the Source
It’s October on the western flanks of the
Oregon Coast Range, and the water cycle is
firing up in a big way. Moisture lifts from the
Pacific in great draughts, and storm clouds
pile up against conifer forests. They dump
their liquid cargo by the millions of gallons—
the source of all life falls from the skies.
After three attempts by both car and foot
at forging up a web of old logging roads, twice
blocked by late snows, we reach the side of
Saddle Bag Mountain. We stumble out of
dark forests into a meadow to find a crystal
clear spring emerging from the ground and
gurgling at our feet. After twelve long months
of planning, we have found the elusive headwaters
of the Salmon River.
Lost Prairie
The mythical oasis of Lost Prairie comes
into view as we make our way downstream.
Named by the first loggers to penetrate
into this wilderness in the early 1900s, it is
Hollywood’s version of a headwaters. Old
growth trees ring cerulean blue pools. The
Lost Prairie cradles a dizzying array of species
that inhabit the grasslands, skies and
waterways.
Starting at an elevation of 2,500 feet,
these waters will take less than twenty-four
hours to make their thirty-mile gravitational
journey west to the sea. In passing, this river
will sustain living creatures in its watershed,
while simultaneously wearing down the
mountains as fast as the inner workings of
the earth can push them back up.
Clear Cuts
We pass remnants of what was once
Oregon’s towering coastal temperate
rain forest in the form of crumbling
old growth stumps that are six to eight
feet across. On all sides, as far as the
eye can see, is a patchwork of second-
and third-generation clear-cuts,
essentially a giant topographical tree
farm whose “crop” is harvested every
thirty-five years or so to feed our appetite
for new homes, paper and other
useful by-products.
1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

Wet Bowling Balls
In the upper reaches of most rivers, water
tends to move fast and hard. The Salmon is no
different, tearing though veins of basalt 45 million
years old and reducing it to a ribbon of rock
in an otherwise soft and fertile landscape. This
liquid path is our only way out, and our inner gyroscopes
are working overtime to deal with this
uneven world of wet bowling-ball-sized rocks.

Seven Hours and
Ten Miles Later
Every few hundred feet of elevation we drop, everything
changes. Tall thin conifers used to being snow
laden most of the year, give way to broad-leafed maples.
Bright orange mushrooms sprout from rotting logs and
beaver chew-sticks swirl in eddies. We have pushed at
full throttle all day in drenching rains, finally reaching
our stopping point where the river meets the Van Duzer
corridor. We have covered ten rugged miles of river and
lost more than 2,000 feet in elevation. I ask Evens, a buff
former river guide, how his legs are holding up. The picture
below says it all. Tomorrow is another day.
Ten Feet of Rain
Ever stop to think what would happen if
our annual rainfall happened Biblically and
came all at once? In most places in the U.S.
you would be up to your knees, but here in
the coastal rain capital you would be over
your head and swimming for your life.
Stretches of this river receive up to 120 inches
of rain annually. This creates a rainforest
that rivals the Amazon in its diversity, with
trees wrapped in mosses and ferns, soils
chronically washed of their minerals, and
a brief window of ninety days of sun in the
summer for new growth.
Walking with Giants
Early the next morning, we set out down a greatly flattened
grade of river bottom surrounded by old growth specimens
of three of the earth’s tallest species.
Powerful sitka spruce, heavyweights of the forest, thrive
only within a few hours walk of the sea—and poke their
crowns up where the big winds blow. Graceful, thirsty cedars,
with fragrant bark and elegant straight-grained wood, require
up to a thousand gallons of water absorption a day per tree
in the summer. Douglas fir, the mainstay of Northwest timber
harvest, is immediately recognizable for its deep bark and
graceful columns that create open spaces under its canopies.
Climate
Change Allies
A little-known fact, the coastal
temperate rain forests of the
Pacific Northwest contain more
biology per acre (by weight)
than any other forest in the
world. These woody masses not
only provide fertile habitat, regulate
seasonal flooding and capture
life-smothering sediment,
but are also 250-foot-tall storage
banks for carbon. While carbon
is the staff of life, the human
species has proven to be a great
destabilizer of earth’s climate
systems, with our dependence
on fossil fuels and the burning
of forests and croplands. There
is consensus in the scientific
community that a key counterbalance
to these emissions lies in
the thoughtful management of
these coastal temperate forests
in order to keep carbon stored
in the bodies of billions of trees
here on the surface of the planet.
The journey continues
DAY TWO:
WALKING WITH GIANTS

iooo Years
in the System
They were seedlings pushing up out of the undergrowth
while Cortés made his famous march across
Mexico and the Protestant Reformation was spreading
within Europe. These 500-year-old trees tower
into blue skies above our heads and blanket the Pacific
Northwest from end to end, over valleys and right
down to the edge of the sea.
We stop for a riverbank classroom with Paul Engelmeyer,
renowned conservationist, as he describes
how these trees can stay in the river system almost a
millennia—more than 500 years standing, 250 years
lying prone in the river after being felled by wind and
disease, and another 250 years as woody debris, providing
essential nutrients as they make their way inevitably
to the Pacific Ocean.
Signs of Fall
In the seventh hour of today’s hike
through a tangle of giant jack-strawed trees,
we stop for an energy boost. Blue huckleberry
bushes loaded with ripe fruit line the
banks of the river and soon our stomachs,
too. While our taste buds enjoy this tart,
wild treat, our eyes take in the seasonally
brilliant vine maple on the far bank. These
are the harbingers of winter here on the
river. Tomorrow we will enter the spawning
grounds of the wily migrating salmon that
give this river its name.
To The Ocean
Invader
Katie Brem, native plant specialist, stops us dead in
our tracks. “We’re not going anywhere `til I have this
baby out by the roots”, she says, bending over invasive
Japanese knotweed growing among
the rocks at the edge of the river. Foreign
species like this have been transported
here from other locations in
the world and have changed the botanical
face of the Pacific Northwest.
Think Himalayan Blackberry and
Scotch Broom. Groups throughout
the Northwest are dedicated to the
removal of these aggressive species
that crowd out natives and alter the
balance of plant communities that
have existed for thousands of years.

The Journey Continues
DAY THREE:
SALMON POOLS
Civilization
Near river mile seven, we encounter one of
our first signs of human habitation along the
river, a unique combination of housing and a
custom-designed wood-fired bathtub.
The Gorge
Just before reaching the
Highway 18 bridge, we meet
our most challenging climb of
the trip—navigating the high
walls and narrow confines of
this rocky gorge. I wince to
think of the thousands of dollars
of high tech video equipment
on Hietz's back.
Constant Companion
They're not called “Dippers” for nothing. The
Water Ousel is a compact bird with surplus energy;
dancing up and down the river to a music only it
hears, occasionally disappearing underwater to hunt
for aquatic insects. They are the Pacific Northwest’s
equivalent of a canary in the coal mine—their presence
an indicator of a healthy freshwater system. So
ubiquitous are they from the top to the bottom of
the river that they become travel companions, staying
just ahead of us every foot of the way.
Anna's Falls
This twenty-foot falls was
formed by a fault in coastal
basalt and is the largest we encounter
on our journey.
To watch the Headwaters to
Sea video, go to
1859magazine.com/salmonriver.
Return of the Kings
At the confluence of Slick Rock Creek and the main stem of the
river, we come upon a series of pools with native Chinook salmon
spawning in the current. Four years ago they had emerged from this
same gravel as small fry to venture 5,000 miles out to sea and back
again, returning as powerful twenty-five pound fish. Their dead, spent
bodies are strewn on the banks around us, providing the greatest single
source of nitrogen found in these coastal forests, stripped of elements
by incessant rain. So critical is this nutrient that recent studies
have shown a direct relationship between the size of salmon runs and
the size of annular rings in trees.
2 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

The Estuary
The Salmon River estuary is one of those rare stories of renewal in
North America. Its once fertile lands were diked in the ’50s for cattle
grazing, its banks covered in asphalt by the Pixieland amusement park
and a trailer park in the ’60s. Consequently many of its native salmon
runs were over-fished and replaced by hatcheries. In 1974, however,
the United States Congress passed the very first Scenic Research Act
to protect the future of the estuary. The Nature Conservancy bought
nearby Cascade Head, and the United Nations declared it an International
Biosphere—protecting its biological value. Today the dikes are
gone, native Coho are making a comeback and a consortium of nonprofits
and governmental agencies have helped return the banks of the
river to grasslands.
The Journey Ends
DAY FOUR:
ESTUARY AND THE SEA
The Hatchery
We make our way through a crowd of fishermen on the banks of the
lower river, each hoping for the tug of a fall Chinook on the other end
of the line. We come to a makeshift dam across the river and a series of
concrete fish ladders leading into a fish hatchery. Hatcheries started in
nineteenth century Europe as native runs were wiped out by dams and
industry, and were adopted en masse on rivers throughout the American
West in the early days of the last century, often for the same reason.
Each year, hundreds of thousands of small Chinook and steelhead are
raised here to be released into the river. Some argue that native runs
should be allowed to rebound without the genetic mixing of hatchery
fish. Others believe that salmon would largely be extinct in the lower
fourty-eight states if not for the presence of hatcheries.
A New Beginning
The sight of the river meeting the broad back of the sea
unexpectedly brings me to my knees. I feel humbled and
fortunate. At the end of the line, the memory of standing at
the headwaters comes back to me vividly, watching the first
gurgles of water flow from underground. Over the course
of one hundred hours, we have experienced the life cycle
of a river. Fed by one tributary after another, growing more
boisterous and loud, it flows through countless numbers of
lives, nourishing, cooling and cleaning as it goes. Humans
cannot replicate the perfection, efficiency and beauty of a
river system. This quiet miracle of water incessantly bubbling
up from underground, down the side of a mountain
and out to sea makes everything we do possible.
1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

gallery
Maggie
Rothauge
Steens Wild Horses
4 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

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10 200
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1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

Haunted
OHaunted
O
Oregon
written by
Lee Lewis Husk
From the
Shanghai Tunnels
to the high desert and
the inexplicable Vortex,
something spirited
this way comes

J
Jacksonville HISTORIC Cemetery
photo by Leah Nash

Haunted oregon
pirits of the past are present everywhere.
They dwell in our lands, haunt our historic buildings and cemeteries,
and inhabit our songs, literature, films and holy texts. From ancient
Egypt to today’s pop culture, stories of ghosts, apparitions and spir-
its—whatever you call them—are found in nearly every society and
every religion.
“Ghosts are a desire to believe in the afterlife,” says Sharon Sher-
man, a folklorist and professor at University of Oregon. “None of us
can conceptualize nothingness after death. We want to think that our
spirit or life force will continue or go on in one form or another.”
About one-fourth of Americans believe they’ve had contact with the
dead, whether seeing an apparition or sensing the deceased through
anomalous phenomena such as a clock stopping or an object falling,
says Daniel Wojcik, professor and director of U of O’s Folklore Program.
“These sorts of experiences reinforce widely held folk beliefs
about ghosts, souls and life after death,” he explains.
“Everyone’s a skeptic until it happens to them,” says Jeff Davis, ghost
hunter, archeologist, author of several books on ghosts of the Pacific
Northwest and co-author of Weird Oregon: Your Travel Guide to Oregon’s
Local Legends and Best Kept Secrets. Although paranormal activities
have been reported throughout the state, in wild landscapes,
small towns and even state parks, he advises recreational ghost hunters
to visit Oregon’s larger cities, where spirits are easily unearthed.
OREGON’S GHOSTLY SPIRITS PREDATE THE ARRIVAL of Europeans
by thousands of years. Native inhabitants of the Pacific Northwest had
a spiritual connection with nature and all life around them, including the
belief that plants and animals talk to people. The Creator gave the knowledge
of life’s ways to each tribe, and those gifts were passed along through
language, song and sacred rites.
“A very important part of our belief system is that the spirit leaves the
body at death,” says Wilson Wewa, an elder of the Confederated Tribes of
Warm Springs, a Northern Paiute on his father’s side and a Palouse-Nez
Perce on his mother’s. “We are honoring the life of the deceased and helping
ourselves to mourn with our funerary ceremonies.
“We believe that both good and bad spirits continue to roam the lands,”
says Wewa. “These spirits are a part of everyday life and sometimes are
found in favorite places, such as fishing holes, caves, buttes and mountains,
where they make themselves known to people.
“Long ago, Indian children were taught not to be afraid of nature, or fear
the dark or unknown voices; or songs they may hear in the dark or in a lonely
or sacred place,” he says. When a bad spirit leads someone astray or makes
the person sick, they seek help from healers. Through sometimes complex
ceremonies, healers put malevolent spirits to rest, allowing peace and health
to be restored.
Burial customs varied from tribe to tribe, ranging from cremation and
ground interment to tree or forest “burial” in a canoe. A fascinating story
comes from the Chinook Indians of the lower Columbia River Basin near
0 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

B
photo by Trina Eayds
Astoria, where canoes played a vital role in their daily lives and conveyed the
dead into the spirit life.
Chief Comcomly is noted in historical records for trading with late eighteenth
and early nineteenth century explorers, including Lewis and Clark.
An account in Native Peoples of the Northwest says that when he died in
1830 at 66, his family placed his body in a raised war canoe and later moved
it to a burial site in a nearby forest to keep it from grave robbers. A physician
of the Hudson’s Bay Co. soon found the body and decapitated it. The head
spent more than one hundred years in the Royal Naval Hospital Museum in
Gosport, England.
The chief ’s skull finally made its way back to Astoria, where the historical
society displayed it as a curiosity in the Flavel House Museum for more
than twenty years. In 1972, Chinook pleas for the return of the chief ’s skull
were finally honored, and the chief was buried in an Ilwaco, Washington
graveyard north of his old village. Visitors can see the black burial canoe,
now cast in concrete, that the city of Astoria built in 1961 as a memorial to
the late Chief Comcomly.
Preservation of the body is important in many religions, says folklorist Sherman.
“There’s a belief that the body will someday be resurrected, therefore no
cremation or desecration of the body is allowed.” In folklore, she says, ghosts
are often people who weren’t buried properly, died a horrific death or became
attached to certain places. Sometimes they’re the dead seeking vengeance or
are stuck on earth for bad behavior while alive.
1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012 1

Haunted oregon
S HANGHAI TUNNELS
P
ORTLAND UNDERGROUND
Explore the dark side of Portland’s past: the opium dens, brothels, secret passages,
shanghaied sailors and maybe a ghost or two beneath Old Town Chinatown.
The most famous spirit is Nina, a young American Indian sold into
prostitution, says Michael Jones, curator for the Cascade Geographic Society
and a history buff who’s been exploring Portland’s underground since 1958.
His research indicates that Nina, who many have been called “Ni Mu” in Sahaptin—a
language of Columbia River tribes—agreed to give information to
Christian missionaries trying to clean up Portland’s north end in the 1880s. No
one knows for sure, but someone—maybe the police or her captors—got wind
of this and pushed her down an elevator shaft. Today she makes ghostly appearances
wearing black Victorian garb near the elevator where she died, and
occasionally makes the scene at Hobo’s restaurant.
Lynnette Braillard of Bend says she has had supernatural experiences all her
life. Last November, she and friends went into the underground with Shanghai
Tunnel Tours—operated by Jones’s society (shanghaitunnels.info)—and
encountered a spirit that whispered in her ear, although she couldn’t understand
what it said. “I thought it was the tour assistant standing behind me, but
when I turned around, nobody was there,” she recalls. “It didn’t bother me, but
it creeped out my friends.”
Curator Jones says Braillard’s experience isn’t unique, and that other apparitions
include a lady in white and a woman who sings a Scottish lullaby. He says
the Shanghai Tunnels are the tenth most haunted place in North America and
the most haunted place in Portland. (How these rankings are made, perhaps, is
a ghost story itself.)
For those who want to do their own ghost hunting, go subterranean with
the Portland Walking Tours’ “Beyond Bizarre” (portlandwalkingtours.com).
Starting above ground at Old Town Pizza (another place that claims Nina as
one of its transcendent residents), participants learn the science of ghost hunting,
including hands-on practice with such ghost-detecting equipment as electromagnetic
field meters and high-tech laser thermometers. The tour doesn’t
guarantee a spiritual encounter, “But people have strange experiences on our
tours,” says general manager Bob Fisher, noting that tours sell out quickly, especially
around Halloween.
photos by Harry Slattery
2 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

HECETA HEAD LIGHTHOUSE
HLocated on lonely islands or headlands, lighthouses are rich in ghostly
traditions. The Heceta Head Lighthouse (hecetalighthouse.com), built
between 1892 and 1894, stands just off U.S. Highway 101 near Yachats.
The historic lightkeepers’ quarters, adjacent to the lighthouse, still seem
to be home to Rue, a grief-stricken mother who took her own life after
her daughter drowned in the waters below.
Steven Bursey, owner and innkeeper of the bed & breakfast located
on site, says there’s no early record of Rue, sometimes called the “Lady in
Gray,” but she came out of her eternal rest in the 1970s, when Lane Community
College leased the house. “She either didn’t like the kids or didn’t
like the renovations the college did,” he says. After that, Rue’s shenanigans
began to circulate in newspapers and magazines, and she became well
known. Housekeepers report seeing depressions on freshly made beds
as if someone had recently sat on them, and guests often say they feel
someone sitting on their legs. Lights go on by themselves or door knobs
turn in empty rooms. The lighthouse is currently being restored but the
bed & breakfast is open.
photo by Michael Menefee
MCMENAMINS’ WHITE EAGLE
White Eagle Café and Rock ‘n’ Roll Hotel in Portland and Edgefield (mcmenamins.com)
in Troutdale have tales aplenty. Edgefield Manor, originally a poor farm, keeps a ghost log for
spectral sightings. In the log, a janitor noted that he saw a man in a wheelchair holding a cue
stick by one of the pool tables. “I looked back … and he was gone.” The incident happened
when the janitor was disarming the security alarm for Lucky Staehly’s Pool Hall, which is
named for a gentleman who lived at the former retirement home. He was wheelchair-bound,
yet excellent at running the tables, as well as the ladies. Another entry reads: “Stayed in Rm.
215—could hear bagpipes rather loud. My husband couldn’t sleep—he said it felt like someone
was holding his eyes open. Should probably consider discontinuing use of the room.”
Coincidentally, it was in that particular room that a group of bagpipers “exorcised” any ill will
or bad vibes from Edgefield in 1990.
White Eagle shows up so often in ghost lore that either the stories must be true or the tellers
have all knocked back a few too many. Either way, the legends of White Eagle have drawn
psychics, ghost hunters and curiosity seekers who want to experience this rough-and-tumble
1905 neighborhood watering hole. It allegedly housed a brothel, an opium den and maybe
a tunnel leading to the waterfront for shanghaiing drunk or dopey publicans. White Eagle’s
website lists a litany of legends behind the century-old tavern: “A prostitute killed upstairs by
a jealous lover, drunken patrons shanghaied through a basement tunnel, and a waitress halfpushed,
half-carried down the basement steps by an invisible, but persistent force.”
1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

O H
H
Other
Haunts in
P
ortland
Portland is said to be one of the most haunted cities in the
nation. Stories of paranormal activity wallow in each of
these historic landmarks.
THE HEATHMAN HOTEL
Each room that makes up the “03” column from top
to bottom floors has been cited for paranormal activity
of the mysteriously-moved-object sort.
BENSON HOTEL
At least three friendly ghosts are said to roam the
historic hotel, performing random acts of kindness.
LONE FIR PIONEER
CEMETERY
Alongside many of Portland’s most prominent
grave sites lie 10,000 unmarked graves. Spooky
tours are available monthly.
PITTOCK MANSION
Inexplicable noises, apparitions and a portrait with
a mind of its own of original owner, Henry Pittock,
put this beautifully restored Portland icon in the mix.
WITCHES CASTLE
IN FOREST PARK
A Romeo and Juliet story that culminated in a brutal
murder, and the subsequent hanging of the murderer
(the first in Oregon after it became a territory),
is a reasonable basis for ghosts. Spirits of those
involved in the family feud are said to still occupy
this piece of land, formerly their personal property.
4 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

J
JACKSONVILLE
HISTORIC CEMETERY
photo by Leah Nash
The dead come alive two nights every year
in October at the Jacksonville Cemetery in
Southern Oregon. Friends of Jacksonville’s
Historic Cemetery (friendsjvillecemetery.
org) offer an award-winning “Meet the Pioneers”
torch-lit night where “spirits” in
period costumes stand graveside and tell
sad, funny and fascinating stories of life in
the 1800s. Visitors can also join one of the
monthly tours and learn about how the dead
were assigned to certain sections: six for
well-off members of fraternal and religious
organizations and a seventh for souls who
couldn’t afford a grave.
Meet the Pioneers tours (October 12-13)
draw as many as 700 people, so buy tickets
early, advises Dirk Siedlecki, president of the
Friends organization.
S OUTH EUGENE HIGH SCHOOL AUDITORIUM
In 1958, Robert Turnbull Grankey, a student at
South Eugene High School, fell through the ceiling
of the auditorium, landing in row G, seats 10 and 11,
breaking his neck and dying in front of thirty students.
“As a child, I would go to rehearsals with my
father in the auditorium,” recalls Sioux Boston, whose
father was the school’s music teacher at the time of
the incident. “The seats where the student fell were
left in their bent state, and every time I went into the
auditorium, even years later as a student, I felt an eerie
presence,” she recalls. A story in the school’s newspaper,
The Oregon Daily Emerald (Oct. 28, 1997),
reported that people have heard mysterious noises,
piano music after hours, eerie voices and a number of
students and faculty have seen someone sitting in the
old balcony. It must be a benevolent spirit because,
during the 1994 renovations, a workman fell through
the ceiling, landing on the seats and suffered only a
broken foot. Some claimed the ghost saved his life.
photo courtesy of Kelly Atwood - South Eugene Class of yearbook
1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

Haunted oregon
T
THE OREGON VORTEX
It may or may not be haunted, but it qualifies as one place
in Oregon where strange phenomena resist satisfactory
scientific explanation. A hurricane of unnatural forces
swirls about in Southern Oregon at the Oregon Vortex
and House of Mystery (open March through October).
The laws of gravity seem temporarily suspended: a broom stands
upright without support, objects appear to flow uphill and the
crooked, off-tilt house makes visitors dizzy just standing near it.
According to tour guide Brian DeBunce, the Takelma and Latga-
wa Indians called it a forbidden ground because horses and other
animals wouldn’t come near the place—except cold-blooded
creatures such as snakes and lizards.
A roadside attraction four miles up Sardine Creek near Gold
Hill, this mysterious spot opened to the public in 1930. The
Vortex (oregonvortex.com) has been subjected to all sorts
of probing by eminent scientists, including Albert Einstein.
Short people appear taller and tall people shorter, de-
pending on where they stand in the Vortex. Skeptics say
it’s all an optical illusion; others aren’t so sure.
.
images courtesy of The Letsom Letters Collection - Kathy Matthews, 212
6 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

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Wrist Injury Stitches
Migraine Fever

Food & Home
+
Pears
Three historic
remodels
100 Farm to Table
P
R
104 Oregon Recipes
106 Home Grown Chef
S
108 Design
photo by Blaine and Bethany Photography
Farm to Table
Jennifer Euwer with Molly
at Valley Crest Orchards.

Food & Home
Au
farm to tale
Pear
The subtle sweetness of the
state fruit finds itself in many dishes
written by Sophia McDonald
photos by Blaine Franger
THE HUMBLE OREGON PEAR RARELY GETS ITS DUE. The subtle fruit is often overshadowed
by the flashy berry or its more popular cousin, the apple. Since pears come late in
the growing season, they may get ignored by canners vying for that last box of tomatoes or
kids stampeding for the pumpkin patch.
Nevertheless, the pear is a quintessential Oregon crop. In fact, it was declared the official
state fruit in 2005. Nearly 85 percent of the pears eaten in the United States are grown in the
Pacific Northwest, and Oregon’s Hood River and Rogue Valley regions are major contributors
to that harvest.
Valley Crest Orchards, twenty miles south of Hood River in the small town of Parkdale,
presents a modest profile reminiscent of its principal crop. There’s not even a sign out front.
Owner, Jennifer Euwer, rides around the property in an unassuming pick-up truck, her dog,
Molly, sitting shotgun, and her rain gear nearby.
Euwer’s family has been on this property for one hundred years, growing fruit all along.
When her grandfather arrived in 1912, he built a log cabin with lumber from the property,
planting apples in place of the felled trees. After his death in 1942, Euwer’s grandmother took
over the farm and ran it until her son, Eugene, came of age.
Eugene carried on the family tradition until 2001, when Euwer took over day-to-day
management of the property. Running a 120-acre orchard wasn’t always in her plans. Euwer
earned a bachelor's degree in economics from Stanford University, with an emphasis in the
food industry. She flirted with the idea of going to law school but didn’t want to commit to
anything until she gave the family farm a shot. Living in a small home not far from the tiny log
cabin that once housed her grandparents, Euwer has been back on the farm ever since.
Most farmers in the area planted apples in the early twentieth century, Euwer says, but the
region’s hard frosts often killed off the crop. Growers then switched to pears because the trees
are hardier and the market is more exclusive.
“If you look at any pear-growing region, you’ll notice a snowy mountain peak nearby,” says
Cristie Mather, director of communications for Pear Bureau Northwest. Hood River, sitting at
the base of Mt. Hood, has rich volcanic soil, plenty of water for irrigation and an ideal climate
for producing pears. Green and red-skinned Anjous do particularly well here, but Valley Crest
also produces Bartlett, Bosc, Comice and Star Crimson pears.
Like many tree fruits, pears do not cross-pollinate, so it’s essential to plant different varieties
together. The color of the fruit’s skin determines the color of the tree’s leaves, and the result
is a patchwork of green and red foliage rolling across the hillsides of Euwer’s property. She
looks out over acres of specimens she planted with her father, as well as a small patch of thicktrunked
trees put in the ground by her grandfather. The latter are nearly one hundred years
old, but they still produce pears.
Just as these trees are part of her family legacy, so too are the orchard’s workers. Some of
Euwer’s employees had parents or other family members who worked alongside her father.
100 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012
LEFT Anjou pears ripening at Valley
Crest Orchards. RIGHT clockwise
Jennifer Euwer with her dog, Molly.
View of Mount Hood from Valley
Crest. Leaf color is determined by
pear skin color.

Food & Home
farm to tale
Fall Fruit
in a Can
The words, canned fruit may bring back childhood
memories of mushy, overly sweet imitations of the sunripened
fruit found fresh in orchards every fall.
A pear pickers ladder and a
stairway to heavenly pears.
Euwer with her son, Henry.
ite into a ood-Crest canned pear and you may
change your mind. uirhead Canning, the craft cannery
that makes the ood-Crest line, produces food the
old-fashioned way in small batches, using steam rather
than chemicals to loosen the fruits skins, even doing
some of the work by hand. The result is canned fruit that
closely resembles its original form.
uirhead Canning (muirheadcanning.com) was founded
in The alles in 19 as a custom cannery. Farmers
brought in fruit from their orchards, and the company
canned it for them. Today uirhead is one of the few
remaining canneries in Oregon and the only one that
still does custom canning.
ood-Crests cherries come from ust down the road,
and the pears come from nearby ood River. Its peaches
and plums come from Oregon and Washington. Only
the apricots, which oughmiller sources from orthern
California, arent grown in the acific orthwest.
North in Hood River, Chef Kathy Watson, chef and owner of Nora’s Table, loves dishes with pears. Nora’s Table specializes in “classy, world-wise food”
mostly from local orchards, farms and ranches. One of Watson’s favorite ways to use pears is in a curried pear gastrique, which she serves over lamb chops
with a side of yellow coconut dahl.
“Get to know the different pear varieties,” Watson advises. “Each one works particularly well for certain things.” She likes the Anjou best for poaching
pear, the Comice for eating plain, Seckel pears with roasted meats and the Red Star Crimson alongside cheese.
There are many ways to use pears in desserts—from upside down cake to pear and hazelnut pie, says Heidi Tunnell, chef proprietor of Heidi Tunnell
Catering Company in Creswell. In savory applications such as roasted fall vegetables, she adds, pears are perhaps at their best. “They add a nice sweetness,”
says Tunnell, who recommends a savory roasted pear and pancetta soup to showcase the fruit. She occasionally serves the dish at her popular summer barn
dinners or her Thursday night family-style meals.
On the sweet side, try tarragon panna cotta with pear caramel. Pears and caramel are a natural pairing, and tarragon is a mystery ingredient that will leave
people guessing. The recipe comes from chef Scott Dolich, owner of Park Kitchen and The Bent Brick in Portland, both of which are dedicated to using
the highest quality local ingredients at the peak of their season. “Be sure to choose a firmer pear for cooking, but don't be timid,” Dolich says. “Pears can be
treated in the same manner as apples. They can be baked, stewed, puréed, grilled and roasted.”
In the orchard, pears differ from apples. They should be picked before they’re fully ripe, when the body gives just slightly when squeezed, then stored in a
cool place for a month and ripened at room temperature. When the neck of the pear feels soft, it’s ready for eating, canning or cooking. “I like to cook, and
I love to feed people,” Euwer says. Her favorite way to eat pears is in pie, but a green salad is a close second. She cuts a couple pears into chunks and soaks
them in rice vinegar, which prevents them from browning. She tosses together a combination of lettuce, bleu cheese, hazelnuts and dried cranberries, and
dresses the salad with the pears, vinegar, and olive oil right before serving.
When she craves an unadorned pear, Euwer reaches for a Bartlett. It may not be the most celebrated variety in the vanity fair of pears, but sometimes
the simple choice is the best one.
102 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

emerick
Oregon Oregon 1859 1859 Horz Horz Aug Aug 2012 2012 7/18/12 7/18/12 2:50 2:50 PM PM Page Page 1 1
GO WINE TASTING!
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Oregon Living
oregon recipes
ora's Table and
orge Catering
110 Fifth Street, Hood River
norastable.com
athy Watson, chef
Curried ear astrique
I
Total time 75 minutes
1
1
1 R
2
2
In a small sauce pan, heat the wine and vinegar until almost
simmering. In an 8-1 saut pan, spread one cup
sugar across pan. On medium-high heat, melt and caramelize
the sugar until it’s a medium-dark caramel color,
stirring with a wooden or stainless steel spoon, until all
the sugar is melted.
Toss in the fruit and pour in the hot wine/vinegar mixture
the sugar may seize up a bit, but it will melt again
as the mixture returns to a low boil. Cook for about
minutes until the fruit is tender and the liquid is slightly
reduced. Take off the burner and allow to cool for about
15 minutes. Stir in garam masala and salt. Pour mixture
into blender and blend until smooth. Drizzle over grilled
pork or lamb chops. Store in the refrigerator for up to
one week.
enoa Restaurant
2832 SE Belmont Street, Portland
genoarestaurant.com
avid Anderson, chef
ear inger Chutney | 4 cups
Total time 90 minutes
4 P
6
2
4
2
2
2
1
1
2
2
1
1
In a medium saucepan, heat oil over medium-high heat.
Add whole cloves, cardamom pods, cinnamon sticks,
chiles, fennel and nigella seeds. Cook 1 minute, or until
fragrant. Add onions saut until browned. Add julienne
ginger and garlic saut 3 minutes, stirring frequently.
Add remaining ingredients, except pears, and simmer
until slightly syrupy, 1-15 minutes. Take care not to burn.
Add pears and simmer until tender but still hold their
shape, 15-3 minutes depending on ripeness of pears.
When pears are cooked, use a slotted spoon to transfer
chutney to a tray to cool. If desired, remove large pieces
of whole spices. Return any remaining liquid to stove
and simmer until thick and syrupy. Combine hot syrup
and pears in a bowl. Cool completely to allow flavors to
mingle before serving.
ark itchen
422 NW 8th Street, Portland
parkkitchen.com
Scott Dolich, chef
emon Tarragon anna Cotta
with ear Caramel | Serves
Total time 5 minutes
1
6
2
4
2
Lightly wipe eight 2-ounce size ceramic or metal
souffl cups with vegetable oil. In a medium saucepan,
heat cream, milk, sugar and lemon zest just to a
simmer. Meanwhile, soften gelatin in 2 tablespoons
cold water. Remove milk mixture from heat and stir
in gelatin and tarragon. Let stand 5 minutes. Strain
mixture through a wire mesh sieve or cheesecloth to
remove tarragon leaves. Pour into prepared cups and
refrigerate until firm, at least 8 hours.
In a small heavy saucepan 1-quart size heat sugar,
cream of tartar and 1 tablespoon water until sugar is
a deep amber color, stirring periodically with a fork
or swirling to cook evenly. Immediately remove from
heat and slowly pour cream down side of saucepan.
The caramel will bubble up and clump. Stir until caramel
is smooth. Stir in brandy. Cool, then refrigerate
until thickened.
Peel, core and cut pears into -inch thick wedges.
Combine pears, sugar and butter in a wide skillet.
Cook and stir gently over medium heat until pears
are lightly caramelized and tender, about 8 minutes.
Spread on a platter to cool.
Drizzle about 1 tablespoon caramel sauce on each
dessert plate. Briefly dip panna cotta cups in warm
water. Run the tip of a wet knife around edge of cups
and invert onto prepared dessert plates. Divide pear
slices between servings. Serve immediately.
R RE E GR RECPE A R
E GR G
1859MAGAZINE.COM/FOOD-DRINK
104 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

Follow the Fork to
Central Oregon’s best
local food & drink!
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o Farm & Ranch Tour
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Walking Tour
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For more information about our creative culinary
offerings, please visit www.welltraveledfork.com
or call Chef Bette Fraser at 541.312.0097.
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Located in the beautiful Hood River Valley, 5 minutes
south of downtown Hood River, off Hwy 35.
Open daily // 11am-5pm
541-386-8333 // 2882 Van Horn Drive, Hood River
Group bus tours welcome
ADA accessible
info@mthoodwinery.com // www.mthoodwinery.com

Oregon Living
Home Grown Chef written and photographed by Carrie Minns
ARIST ORIS of the sumptuous pear have little resemblance
to how I enoy Oregons treasured state fruit today.
In my younger days, I needed a can opener to access the pale, soft fruit.
I speared the perfectly shaped pear halves with a fork and placed them
on an iceberg lettuce leaf. I put a scoop of small-curd cottage cheese in
the half dome center of the fruit and, when at my grandmothers house,
topped it with a half a maraschino cherry to disguise it as an ice cream sundae.
artlett, Comice, osc and Anou werent part of my vocabulary then.
The ancient fruit, cultivated in China for at least ,000 years and brought
to Oregon along the ewis and Clark trail, thrives in the rich volcanic soil
found in ood River and Rogue River valleys. In autumn, my kitchen countertop
is never without a brown bag filled with ripening Oregon pears.
For this recipe, I used pears to create a dish that I could serve my family
for dinner on a fall evening. I combined caramelied sweet onions with
sliced pear, melded the flavors in a white wine bath, and topped it off with
fresh thyme. I spooned the slightly sweet, slightly savory mixture over sauted
chicken breasts that sat on a bed of rice to soak up every last drop of
the succulent sauce. y family inhaled it.
Chicken with ear, Sweet Onions and White Wine
Serves -5 | Total prep and cooking time 0 minutes
S
2
1
2
1
2
1
2
1
Start by laying your chicken breasts on a cutting board and, slice them in half horizontally
to form two thin fillets per breast. Sprinkle both sides of the fillets with salt
and pepper. Dredge both sides of each fillet in the flour, shaking off the excess.
Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large skillet, preferably cast iron, over
medium-high heat. Saut the chicken breasts for 8-1 minutes, turning
once, until nicely browned and no longer pink in the middle. To
avoid overcrowding your skillet and ensure even browning, you
may need to do this in two batches. Move your chicken breasts to
a platter and tent with foil.
Wipe out your skillet. Heat butter and 2 tablespoons olive
oil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low to
low and add your onions, salt, pepper, and thyme leaves.
Cook for about -8 minutes, stirring occasionally, and taking
care not to brown too quickly. Add in your pears and
saut another minutes. Carefully pour in your white
wine, and let simmer about 5- minutes or until the alcohol
has evaporated and liquid has reduced a bit.
To serve, put a scoop of rice in a shallow bowl. Top it
with a chicken breast. Spoon the pear and onion mixture
on top. Enjoy.
106 1859 oregon's mAgAzine JULY SEPT AUGUST OCT 2012 2012

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Oregon Living
design
10 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

design
Oregon Living
For the Love
of Old Homes
Three couples tackle the
challenges of historic houses
to create modern nests
by Melissa Dalton
Old houses are known for causing trouble—floors dip,
walls crack, closets cram and kitchen appliances outlive
their purpose. Houses built a hundred years ago were
made for another lifestyle and, often, have had owners
whose design decisions are unlivable by today’s standards.
Despite the problems that come with owning historic
homes, the demand for them is strong “because
they have a heart and soul,” says Melody Emerick, a Portland
architect who frequently works on historic homes. In
the following pages, we profile three homeowners who
have revamped these homes to better suit their needs
while preserving that heart and soul.
photo by Andrea Lorimor
1859 oregon's 1859 oregon's mAgAzine mAgAzine JULY AUGUST SEPT OCT 2012 2012 10 10

Oregon Living
design
PORTLAND FOURSQUARE
On many mornings, it wasn’t unusual to find the entire Sacks family squeezed
into the lone upstairs bathroom of their 1906 home, so that everyone could
get out the door on time. Then Jeremy Sacks reached his tipping point. He remembers
it as a typical morning in 2008. Sacks, his wife, Dana, and their 5- and
7-year-old children were crowded at the sink when the family dog came in—
and sat in the few remaining vacant inches. Jeremy knew then that something
had to be done.
The couple contemplated selling their American Foursquare-style home in
Portland’s Forest Park neighborhood. But after reviewing the market, they realized
they preferred their block—within walking distance of the park, a library
and multiple coffee shops. Further, they appreciated their home’s historic features,
including an original tile fireplace in the living room and art glass windows
flanking the entry. Instead of selling, they opted to renovate. Diligent research
ensured their changes would retain the house’s vintage character. They
hired Melody Emerick of Emerick Architects in Portland to help them achieve
that balance in their remodel.
Over the past hundred years, the house had settled eighteen inches and was
sliding down the hill. To correct this, the Emerick team had the house lifted
and rebuilt the foundation. They then conceived a first floor layout that would
improve the flow. They designed a broader entry, adding a closet and powder
room, and relocated the kitchen to accommodate a new breakfast nook. Jeremy
got his master bathroom upstairs, and the basement was finished for the
kids. The additions fit seamlessly with the old.
One of the team’s bigger challenges was to integrate new built-in bookshelves
with an old window seat in the living room. A master stainer matched the color
with the existing woodwork. The result was stunning. On seeing it for the first
time, Dana danced with joy.
Today, not only do the “burgeoning teenagers” have a downstairs hangout,
but the parents enjoy the privacy of the master bath. And since they’ve hosted
a few parties in their renovated home, the Sacks like that the improved design
allows room for everyone and the family dog.
>>
photo by Andrea Lorimor
The Goods
Homeowners Jeremy and Dana Sacks
Architect Emerick Architects | emerickarchitects.com
Builder Right Angle Construction | rightangleco.com
R ERE A AER
P E AC
E REE
1859magazine.com/design
110 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

Oregon Living
design
B.F. DOWELL HOUSE
When Wes and Mona Hartman inherited the house that has been in his family for more than
a hundred years, they also inherited its storied past. The house, a brick Italianate-style home
built for B.F. Dowell in Jacksonville in 1861, hadn’t been updated for decades. A sink in the
kitchen was the only indoor plumbing and wood-burning stoves supplied the heat. As the story
goes, Wes’ grandmother had a bathroom installed in 1935—outside, of course, because having
one indoors was deemed unsanitary.
The couple felt fortunate to receive the home from his two bachelor uncles in 1987, despite
its lack of modern conveniences. Living as bachelors, the uncles did little to improve the state of
things. So when the Hartmans took ownership, they sought to make the house more functional
for their growing family, while staying true to its historical roots. They hired architect Bruce
Richey to integrate an addition that would realize these goals.
With Richey, the couple added a master bathroom, family room and utility room, and updated
the kitchen. In doing so, they let the house’s most distinctive attributes guide several of their
design choices. For instance, the arched windows on the front facade were carried through to
the back of the home. A jeweled art glass window in the kitchen—originally put in by the Dowells—inspired
an Italian tile backsplash, and the room’s blue and lavender color scheme. Richey
also fabricated the cabinetry in both the kitchen and the family room to match the original paneled
doors found throughout.
With historic homes, treasures come to those who dig. When the Hartmans ripped up the
kitchen linoleum, they found a tight grain Douglas fir floor—and another story underneath. It
turns out that the outdoor privy wasn’t the only renovation made in the ’30s. Wes’ uncles were
moved to install a sturdy wood floor after his grandmother fell through the old one. In letting
the house’s unique features, both above and underfoot, guide their renovations, Wes and Mona
have also managed to preserve the home’s many stories—from the Dowells to the Hartmans.
112 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012
photos by David Gibb
The Goods
Homeowners Wes and Mona Hartman
Architect Bruce Richey | oregonarchitect.com
Builder Randy Bogardus of Oregon Architectural
Millwork & Manufacturing | archmillwork.com

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IN YOUR
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DesTiny
Let Energy Trust of Oregon be your guide. We’ll show you easy, low-cost and no-cost ways to reduce energy use
today and realize energy savings well into the future.
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Turn down the thermostat to
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Oregon Living
design
photos by Dina Avila
THE LEGACY HOUSE
Bruce Drake, a business professor at the University of Portland, first saw the cottage on his
morning commute through Portland’s Mocks Crest neighborhood. He loved the stonework
in the home’s facade and the circular window nestled within it—features more common to
houses in the English countryside than the Pacific Northwest. “It was absolutely elegant,” he
recalls. “I thought, if that house ever goes up for sale, I’m buying it.” Soon after, a ‘For Sale’ sign
out front prompted him and his wife, Eileen, to inquire.
They discovered that the cottage had a rich history. It was a model home built by The Oregonian
in 1928, designed to demonstrate how native woods could produce highly decorative
effects. By the time the Drakes stepped inside seventy-four years later, however, the interior
was a disaster. A 1970s-era kitchen renovation had left dark cabinets, laminate flooring and a
green-orange backsplash. Moreover, there was poorly installed sheetrock, and layers of paint
and carpet that had diminished the original woodwork. Despite this, the couple bought the
house in 2002, and decided to restore it using sustainable and salvaged materials.
Bruce found fifty newspaper articles describing the house’s construction. Next, the couple
hired Karen Richmond, a designer with Neil Kelly, to help them get the historic details right.
Once they started the demolition, the house proffered more clues about its original form.
While gutting the kitchen, they found a remnant of bullnose tile inside the wall that would
inspire new countertops. A built-in closet in the master bedroom was hidden behind drywall.
All of their hard work paid off when the finished home was accepted into the National
Register of Historic Places. In a strange twist, Bruce learned that the cottage ’s original architect
was his great uncle. This discovery, he says, made his first sighting of the house, and its subsequent
restoration, seem much like fate.
The Goods
Homeowners Bruce and Eileen Drake
Design/Build Karen Richmond | Neil Kelly | neilkelly.com
DIY RESTORATION OF VINTAGE FURNITURE
Refinishing furniture is expensive, time-consuming and not always necessary. Try these tips before you resort to stripping the piece.
CLEANING is always step one and
may be enough to give the piece a new
life. Use an oil-based wood cleaner.
If this isn’t enough, use a mild solution of
warm water and liquid detergent. Rinse and
thoroughly dry with a soft cloth. If a “haze” is
left over, buff lightly with steel wool—following
the direction of the wood grain.
114 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012
RE-AMALGAMATION helps when
finishes crack, leaving an alligator-like
pattern on the wood. Use a solvent to
eliminate deep grime and cracks. Apply with
a clean, dry natural bristle brush and work in
quick, long strokes. Multiple coats may be necessary.
When complete, lightly buff with the
grain. To finish, wax with a hard paste and buff.
1 2 3
OVERCOATING enhances wood color.
Find a stain that matches the current
color. Stain the entire piece, let set
for fifteen minutes and rub off. Repeat until
stain matches original. When dry, buff with
steel wool and polish with a tack cloth. Apply
a coat of the original finish. Let set two days.
Buff, wax with a hard paste and polish.

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Outdoors
Spandex, sport
climbing and
Smith Rock
The world's
best jumper
+
+
118 Adventures
S R S P
126 Athlete Profile
photo courtesy of Mike Volk
Adventures

Outdoors
adventures
photo courtesy of Mike Volk
PIONEERSof
atCLIMBING
SMITH ROCK
From ladders to bouldering and controversial rap bolting,
this volcanic venue has long been at climbing’s crux
written by
Bob Woodward
This is the story of how Smith Rock became the birthplace of a controversial revolution that
gave rise to sport climbing and launched generations of its agile practitioners. Today it’s a state
park with family-friendly climbing routes, but that wasn’t always the case. In the early days
Smith Rock wasn’t a park yet, and sport climbing was a divisive technique that would become
synonymous with its regular visitors. It started with a handful of climbers who were curious
and isolated among the faces and columns of volcanic welded tuff at Smith Rock. It culminated
in a chain reaction over the ethics behind a new way of climbing—a style that has since become
the gold standard after a Madras local rappelled down a wall to have a look to see if it might go.
Todd Skinner on an early ascent
of Double Stain on the
Christian Brothers, 198.
11 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

The Piton Pioneers
While there’s no record of prehistoric inhabitants and early settlers making ascents
of its walls, Smith Rock’s first recorded climb in the area was made by Central
Oregon resident Johnny Bissell in 1935. Others followed. In the mid-'40s, Portlanders
Ross Petrie and Dave Pearson made some of Smith’s first difficult ascents.
But it wasn’t until the 1950s, when Jack Watts and brothers Jim and Jerry Ramsey,
a trio from the nearby town of Madras, and Gil and Vivian Staender from Portland
established climbing lines that brought national attention to this isolated area.
“My brother, Jerry, and Jack Watts had climbed some of the Cascade volcanoes,
and the three of us got curious about rock climbing,” says Jim Ramsey, now 80. “It
looked like a cool thing to do.”
At the same time, in Europe, climbing steep technical rock and ice routes in the
Alps was gaining favor over traditional peak-bagging on easier terrain.
With hemp ropes, metal pitons and hammers to pound them into the rock—and
using footwear ranging from hiking boots to sneakers—the Madras trio tramped
off to Smith Rock with some ideas but little clue about what their exploration would
bring. Mountaineering had been around as long as people and mountains have intersected,
but climbing vertical and even overhanging slabs, was in its infancy. “It
was very rare to see anyone else at Smith Rock, least of all climbers, and it was a huge
deal if we found a piton in the rock,” Ramsey recalls. “Frankly, we climbed a lot of really
rotten rock because we were so interested in getting to summits.”
Watts and the Ramsey brothers (together or with other partners) put up first ascents
such as Asterisk, Platform, Arrowpoint, Cave Route on Brogan Spire, Diagonal
Crack on Opposum, Inside Corner and East Chimney, among others. They gave
many formations names such as Asterisk, Asterisk Pass and Brogan Spire—names
that live on today. And while they didn’t leave anything behind to mark their summit
ascents, the Staenders did.
In the late 1950s, husband and wife, Gil and Vivian Staender, made regular treks
from their Portland home to climb in Smith Rock’s Pinnacles area. “In those days,
we preferred to climb pinnacles and spires rather than big walls,” recalls Gil, now 82.
And climb they did, always leaving behind a summit register on one of their
many routes. “I remember getting a call from Jim Ramsey after he found one of our
registers, and we did a few climbs with him,” says Gil.
The Staenders made many courageous ascents, but the route most associated
with their name in Smith Rock climbing history is the first successful ascent of
Monkey Face on January 1, 1960.
Vivian Staender made the first ascent that cold January day with college students
Jim Fraser and Dave Bohn, both of whom had only enough time to make the climb
during their Christmas break from their studies at Oregon State University and the
University of Oregon respectively.
“The boys bivouacked in the cave that forms the monkey’s mouth and were shivering
by the time Viv climbed up to join them early the next morning," Gil Staender
says. "They made the summit push and all succeeded." Vivian died in 1997.
In the spring of 2012, another relic of Smith’s first climbers surfaced. A Bend family
on a hike in the Pinnacles area of Smith Rock stumbled onto an old yellow film
canister. Opening it, they found a climbing register for Gunsight Rock dated September
21, 1958. Its first entry read: “Gil and Viv Staender ascended the main pinnacle
by ladder. Then, one piton and up from the west.”
Today, the Staender name lives on at Smith Rock State Park in Staender Ridge,
a group of pinnacles that include Adit Rock, Control Tower, Independence Tower,
the Mole, Bette's Needles, Flattop and Staender Summit.
Alan Watts on an early ascent of Close
Shave on Monkey Face at Smith Rock.
Monkey Face gets its name from the
upper part of this singular, stand-alone
pillar that looks like a monkeys face.
photo courtesy of Mike Volk

The dawn of bouldering
About the time Ramsey free climbed the Awl, bouldering—climbing
large free-standing boulders and rock outcrops, usually without
ropes—was cropping up in Oregon. While already popular abroad,
especially in Great Britain, this derivative sport was starting to gain
acceptance among American climbers. Initially it was a way for timecrunched
climbers to hone their skills without the need for protection,
but it soon blossomed into a sport of its own.
Smith Rock found a bouldering champion in climber Chris
Jones, who first arrived as a 15-year-old in 1973 and drove his parent’s
Volkswagen van up Burma Road to climb at Staender Ridge.
Now a Bend resident, Jones recalls not getting truly interested in
rock climbing and bouldering until Jim Ramsey and Alan Watts came
to a class in the University of Oregon outdoor program when he was
a freshman. From 1977 until 1979, Jones turned his attention to rock
climbing and bouldering.
“The Smith Rock regulars found my concentration on bouldering
a minor source of amusement,” Jones recalls. “But eventually all
the free climbers came to embrace it.” Among Jones’ most memorable
bouldering feats was “the Cave Problem” where he muscled
through a steep overhang using, essentially, one arm and no feet.
As much as bouldering was gaining steam, something far more
dramatic was about to take place in the sport, a change driven by
yet another Madras local.
Mike Volk on top and Mark Wheeler on Flattop, 1972.
photo courtesy of Mike Volk
Glossary Terms
Piton: A flat or angled metal blade of
steel which incorporates a clipping hole for
a carabiner or a ring in its body. A piton is
typically used in "aid-climbing," and an appropriate
size and shape is hammered into
a thin crack in the rock and preferably removed
by the last team member.
Sport climbing: Sport climbing is a style
of rock climbing that relies on permanent
anchors fixed to the rock, especially bolts,
for protection.
Free climbing: A type of rock climbing in
which the climber uses only hands, feet and
other parts of the body to ascend, employing
ropes and forms of climbing protection
to prevent falls only.
Bouldering: A style of rock climbing undertaken
without a rope and normally limited
to very short climbs over a crash pad
(called a bouldering mat) so that a fall will
not result in serious injury. It is typically practiced
on large natural boulders or artificial
boulders in gyms and outdoor urban areas.
Trad climbing: A style of rock climbing
in which a climber or group of climbers
places all gear required to protect against
falls (pitons, etc.), and removes it when a
passage is complete.
photo courtesy of Mike Volk
photo courtesy of Mike Volk
photo courtesy of Mike Volk
In 1960, the State of Oregon created what is
now the 650-acre Smith Rock State Park. The
park became a reality because of its, “significant
geological features,” and to “serve as a resource
for public recreation.” Climbing wasn’t singled
out, but a year later, the Staenders and Jim
Ramsey threw open the doors to climbers in the
new park by writing a ten-page guide to thirty
climbing routes.
The focus of the guide and of Smith Rock’s
early climbers was on attaining summits, and
anything was fair game in getting to the top. The
Staenders “ladder” attribution in the recently discovered
summit register is evidence of this spirit.
At this time, little or no attention was paid to free
climbing—the use of climbing devices only to
protect against a fall but not to help in the ascent.
In 1961, however, Jim Ramsey made the
first free ascent of a formation called the
Awl. Many believe that it was this climb that
opened a new world to the free climbing possibilities
at Smith Rock.
“I got part way up on my first attempt and realized
the climb could go 'free,’” Jim Ramsey recalls.
“So I came back months later and did it. A decade
later, someone informed me that the climb
was rated 5.10c, which was two grades harder
than anything I’d ever climbed.”
TOP Mark Sonnenfeld, Beth Wald, Kristen Drumheller and
Todd Skinner camping on Mike Volks property at Smith Rock,
198. MIDDLE Dirtbag camping on Mike Volks property at
Smith Rock, 198. BOTTOM Morning wake-up call for Todd
Skinner, Mick Johnston and a friend Smith Rock, 198.
’60s and ’70s
Alan Watts bolting Sheer Trickery on
Monkey Face at Smith Rock in 1989.

Outdoors
adventures
photo courtesy of Alan Watts
photo courtesy of Mike Volk
Suddenly Smith Rock
was a kaleidoscope
of climbers in brightly
colored Lycra tights
and muscle shirts
pushing the limits on
tough sport climbs.
LEFT TO RIGHT Alan Watts sends one
of his projects at Smith Rock. Jean Baptiste
Tribout left and Jean Marc Troussier
with a friend in the Dihedrals, 198.
The Sporting Watts
Necessity was indeed the mother of invention
in the case of piton pioneer Jack Watts’
son, Alan Watts.
Alan Watts’ first climb at Smith Rock was with
a group of friends from Madras High School
when he was 14. Ironically, while Watts and his
father climbed together all over the Cascades
until his early teens, the two never climbed together
at Smith Rock.
"I basically taught myself how to rock climb
and, by my late teens, had started to really focus
on it,” Watts says. “But it wasn't until I was in my
early twenties that I started to get good at it, and
it became my life."
One day in 1982, Watts, then 21, got tired of
climbing all of the established routes and decided
to rappel down big walls to scout their potential.
"I kept seeing all these amazing lines that
looked like they wouldn't go from the ground,
but on rappelling down them, I'd see that they
had plenty of good holds and were indeed
climbable," Watts recalls.
While rappelling down a potential route,
Watts would drill bolts, into which he could
clip protective devices on the ensuing ascent—
a technique later referred to as “rap bolting.” It
was a bold move for the Madras native who had
been a traditional climber since childhood.
In contrast to traditional methods, where
climbers place removeable protection pieces as
well as fixed pitons, Watts tactfully drilled steel
loops, or bolts, at intervals along harder climbs
where traditional gear would not work. In doing
so, Watts opened faces and routes that climbers
previously considered beyond human capability.
With partners such as Chris Grover (now
an executive with climbing gear maker Black
Diamond Equipment in Utah), Watts literally
turned Smith Rock into his own private climbing
area, controversy and all.
A 2010 Rock and Ice magazine feature entitled
"10 Who Influenced” credits the younger
Watts with inventing sport climbing. The story
cited his February 1983 climb of the difficult
5.12-rated Chain Reaction route at Smith Rock
State Park as the first sport climb of record.
Chain Reaction soon lived up to its calling.
This route wasn’t known outside of Oregon until
1986, when it was featured on the cover of
Mountain magazine, the most influential climbing
magazine of the time.
As word about sport climbing spread, controversy
swirled around Watts in the climbing
magazines and among climbers.
To most climbers, sport climbing was akin
to cheating—drilling into rock to affix permanent
bolts in places that would normally be
too dangerous to climb. At the time, American
climbing community icon Royal Robbins
disparaged sport climbing, saying it was as destructive
to the rock as dirt motorcycle riding
was to public lands.
Unfazed, Watts, then 25, headed to the Yosemite
Valley to climb alongside some of rock
climbing's most adamant traditionalists. "I didn't
fear for my life while I was there, but I was scared
that my car might get trashed,” Watts says of the
time spent in Yosemite's Camp Four, where he was
considered a heretic.
While in the Yosemite Valley, he temporarily
suspended his bolt placement sport climbing
technique. "I'd hang on a rope viewing a
route from top to bottom and then come back
later and climb it from the ground up without
any falls,” he says. “The Yosemite climbers
were against my concept at first, but soon
some were giving me credit for climbing the
hard routes they couldn't master by traditional
techniques.”
Prior to going to Yosemite in ’85, Watts had
made the first free ascent (placing protection
as he climbed) of the east side of Monkey
Face, a route that would long hold the distinction
as the hardest route in the country.
Continuing to push the boundaries of
climbing, Watts, by more traditional means,
began to work on a route called “To Bolt or
Not To Be.” Rated an extremely difficult 5.14,
this route superseded all others as the most
difficult rock climb in the U.S. at the time.
In 1986, French climber J.B. Tribout arrived at
Smith to witness climbing’s new playground. In
one push, he flashed up Watt’s project, To Bolt or
Not To Be. Publicity of this climb sparked worldwide
interest in sport climbing and made Smith
Rock famous beyond American borders. Suddenly
Smith Rock was a kaleidoscope of climbers
in brightly colored Lycra tights and muscle
shirts pushing the limits on tough sport climbs.
On a typical day in the ’80s, it wasn’t unusual to
hear a dozen foreign languages echoing between
Smith Rock’s big and bolted walls.
122 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

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The ’90s and Now
Paul Trendler climbs Rampage in the
Marsupials at Smith Rock State Park.
In the ’90s, things changed. “There was a definite lull in the rock
climbing scene, and Smith fell off the circuit as climbers started to go
to other areas that got more publicity and weren’t as far off the beaten
path,” notes Greg Garretson, 34. He started climbing at Smith Rock
as a 14-year-old, ditching high school classes in Bend to further his
budding climbing career.
In 1995, journeyman climber Tim Toula published his comprehensive
guide itemizing all of the best places to climb across the country. With
this bible in hand, climbers fanned out from Smith, landing in places
such as Red Rock in Las Vegas, Red River Gorge in Kentucky, New River
Gorge in West Virginia and Colorado’s Rifle Canyon.
Slowly, though—over the past five to six years—Garretson and others
have witnessed a rebirth at Smith Rock. “People are really psyched to be
at Smith again, and many of the classic lines that had been forgotten are
getting new attention,” says Garretson. The climbing scene, as he is quick
to point out, is less about the publicity of flashing new routes in neon
spandex. “Best of all the adventure is back,” he asserts.
What began with a rappel, a drill and heresy has today become mainstream
for novice to competitive climbers.
Vanessa Burdick, a 23-year-old competitive climber from Georgia, arrived
in Central Oregon a year-and-a-half ago to attend school at Oregon
State University’s Cascades campus. “The fact that Smith Rock
was so close motivated my choice to go to OSU-Cascades,” she says.
The growth of the local college campus has helped draw younger
climbers to the area, but so has the weather. Finding a crag that was
good to climb year-round was one of the reasons Cristina Rose Mastrangelo,
30, moved to Bend from Vermont eighteen months ago. She
is drawn to the variety of routes, many of which are technique-intensive.
“The challenging climbing here only makes you better,” she says.
As Burdick and Mastrangelo enhance the current climbing community,
a new generation ascends Smith Rock’s hard surfaces. Once
recognized as one of the world’s most daring alpine climbers, John
Bouchard now teaches school in Redmond and climbs at Smith Rock
with his wife, Nancy, and their three young girls.
“Of all the areas I’ve climbed, Smith Rock is one of the most familyfriendly,”
Bouchard assesses. “The routes are accessible via short, easy
hikes. There are plenty of one-pitch climbs that are low angle enough
that they are not intimidating, even for toddlers."

Terrebonne Depot
If you want to dust off the
chalk and go for a cold beer and
a fantastic meal produced with
locally sourced goods, head to
Terrebonne Depot, just minutes
from Smith Rock. Constructed
in 1911 as a nexus for the burgeoning
Oregon Trunk Railroad,
the building was originally a
one-story structure that aided
in Central Oregon growth, welcoming
passengers and freight
from the east side of the railroad
tracks—directly opposite its present
location. Between 1938 and
1951, the depot was hauled to
the west side of the tracks and a
second story was added for the
storage of freight.
As railroad waned, the depot
sat abandoned for the latter
part of the nineteenth century.
In 2005, the current owners
initiated the historic structure's
meticulous and award-winning
renovation. Where possible, materials
from the original structure
were reused. Local artisans were
commissioned to handcraft the
restaurant's substantial yet elegant
bar—carved from the oldgrowth
fir blocks that once supported
the depot's floor.
Location:
400 NW Smith Rock Way
Contact:
Phone: 541.548.5030
terrebonnedepot.com
info@terrebonnedepot.com
photo by Ian Yurdin
Courtesy of Deschutes County Historcal Society
photo by Bob Woodward
A Sample of
Smith Rock Climbs
Compiled by Alan Watts, author
of Rock Climbing Smith Rock State
Park, the guide book.
Round River 5.4
Five Gallon Buckets 5.7
Super Slab 5.7
Wartley's Revenge 5.11a
Monkey Space 5.11b
Toxic 5.11b
Chain Reaction 5.12c
Churning in the Wake 5.13a
To Bolt or Not to Be 5.14a
photo by Tyler Roemer
Camping Smith Rock
Skull Hollow
The campground is 7.9 miles to the east from the
main parking area at Smith Rock State Park. It's
open March 1 through November 30. There are
thirty campsites with parking pullouts and two pit
toilets. Water is not available. Other services are
minimal so please take your trash with you
Smith Rock Bivouac Area
The campground at Smith Rock State Park is a walkin
campground and is open year-round. Overnight
camping in vehicles is not allowed. Space is available
on a first-come basis and reservations are not
accepted. Fees are $5 per person per night, which
includes the $5 parking permit for the following day
and use of the showers. Showers are available for
$2 to people not registered in the campground.
The restrooms and showers are located next to the
campground parking lot. Campsites are located
150 feet from the parking area. Fires are not allowed,
and a leash is required for pets.
Other Climbing Areas
Around Oregon
Broughton Bluff | Troutdale
Wallowa Mountains|Northeast Oregon
Skinner Butte Columns|Eugene
Bandon Needles|Oregon Coast
Illumination Rock|Mt. Hood area
Source: Rock `n Road: Rock Climbing
Areas of North America
Visit SmithRock.com for more information on things to do in and around Smith Rock State Park

Rich
athlete prole Local
Fellers
Habit
CHAMPION SHOW JUMPER
NAME ...............................................
HOMETOWN ..................................
AGE ..................................................
SPORT ..............................................
HORSE’S NAME .............................
ACCOLADES .................................
Rich Fellers
Sherwood
52
Horse Jumping
Flexible
FEI World Cup Champion 2012,
U.S. Olympic Team member
When did you start riding / competing?
I 10 I I 12
I
When did you get your first horse?
When did you realize you had a talent for show jumping?
I I I
I I I
I
I
I
What do you feel when you’re competing?
I
Flexible is hands shorter than most competing jumpers.
Do you prefer shorter horses?
I I
I S
I I
In May, you brought the FEI World Cup back to America
for the first time in twenty-five years. What were
your expectations going into the competition?
I I I
photo by Andrea Lorimor
What goals do you have for the Olympics?
I I N I
126 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

where these came from.
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Roseburg, Oregon heart of the land of Umpqua
For a free guide to our land call 1.800.440.9584 or visit our website.
New Home
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435 New Homes.
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Beaverton, Oregon 97006
Sales | Marketing | Land Acquisition | Development

Oregon Living
oregon postcard
Camp Sherman
Fall colors on the Metolius River
Cabins along the Metolius River, late fall 211. Photo taken by Dave Ryan.
Oregon Postcard
Send us your
Oregon Postcard
and win an 1859 T-shirt
Go to 1859magazine.com/oregon-postcard
to submit your Oregon photo. The winning
photo will also be displayed in the next
issue of 1859.
12 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

Explore Guide
shopping • events • hotels • restaurants • getaways • boutiques
Need an idea for things to do?
Look to regional 1859 Explore
packages for your next adventure.
Find more information at
1859magazine.com/travel.
¡Salud! The Oregon Pinot Noir Auction
Salud marks the world premiere of Oregon’s finest Pinot noir. Winemakers from the state’s
foremost wineries will debut the 211 vintage at this benefit for Oregon’s seasonal vineyard
workers and their families. This event is the only opportunity to acquire unique cuves made
exclusively for Saludthe very best of the latest vintage of Oregon Pinot noir. These are limited
finds not available in stores, restaurants or even tasting rooms. Added to the other custom
auction lots, exquisite cuisine and direct access to the winemakers, this is truly a weekend
wine event unlike any other. For more information, please visit saludauction.org.
Tasting and Big Board Auction
Friday, November 9, 212
Domaine Drouhin Oregon
3 p.m. to 3 p.m.
Dinner and Auction Gala
Saturday, November 1, 212
The Governor Hotel, Portland
5 p.m.
130 / Eugene
132 / Willamette Valley
134 / Oregon Coast
136 / Columbia River Gorge
138 / Mt. Hood
139 / Eastern Oregon
140 / Central Oregon
142 / Southern Oregon
144 / Portland
MORE ONLINE
S P
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WWW.1859MAGAZINE.COM

EXPLORE EUGENE
PORTLAND
>>
Eugene beckons the green-at-heart,
PAC-12 sports fanatics, followers of Ken
Kesey and the Merry Pranksters, hippies,
wanna-be hippies, college students,
track & field stars and combinations of
all those types. Settled in the lower Willamette
Valley, Eugene melds tie-dye,
school colors and rainbow flags into
one distinctive community. Miles of
bike paths, and running and hiking trails
combined with a commitment to sustainable
living make this city truly green.
Oregon Duck football draws enormous
crowds of 60,000 in a city of 157,000
during fall weekends. Although the city
caters to the funky side of life, residents
and visitors have access to upscale dining,
lush vineyards, and prestigious concert
facilities.
DO & SEE
September 9
One Field Meal
McKenzie River Organic Farm
September 15-16
49th Annual Dahlia Show
Lane Events Center
October 13-14
“Dark Side of the Moon”
Eugene Ballet Company
October 20
Eugene’s Birthday Party
Skinner Butte Park
For more on Eugene travel,
go to 1859magazine.com/travel
For more information on events,
go to 1859magazine.com/calendar
>>
10 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012
VALLEY RIVER INN
Valley River Inn has been redecorated,
redefined and rejuvenated. A
sentimental favorite since 1973, this
iconic destination has just completed
an incredible transformation. All
guest rooms, meeting and banquet
spaces, Sweetwater’s Restaurant,
the RiverWalk Bakery, and the lobby
have been remodeled with contemporary
charm. Inspired by the close
connection with nature and serene
setting along the Willamette River,
the designers have integrated organic
textures, natural colors and
patterns, a variety of wood tones,
decorative glass panels, enhanced
lighting, and distinctive dcor that
reflect the spirit of Eugene.
Located along the Willamette River in Eugene
Adjacent to the Valley River Center, featuring more than 1
stores and a cinema with IMAX
Five minutes from downtown Eugene, the University of
Oregon and the Hult Center
Two hours south of Portland, with easy accessibility to
Interstate 5
800.543.8266 1000 Valley River Way, Eugene valleyriverinn.com
Located in the heart of the southern Willamette Valley, Silvan Ridge Winery and
Sweet Cheeks winery offer gorgeous vineyard views, award-winning wines, and
complimentary tasting year-round.
sweetcheekswinery.com Briggs Hill Rd., Eugene
silvanridge.com
OAKSHIRE BREWERY
Strength. Independence. Community.
These are the core values behind
the Oakshire name and its motivation
for brewing fine craft beer in Eugene.
Find Oakshire on tap and on shelves
throughout the Northwest, or come
visit the tasting room to sample all of
its year-round beers, seasonals, single
batches, and barrel-aged reserve beers.
Take in some live music, take a tour of
the brewery and take home bottles,
growlers, and merchandise. Oakshire
Brewing craftsmanship defined.
541.688.4555 1055 Madera Street, Eugene oakbrew.com

THE JORDAN SCHNITZER MUSEUM OF ART
Established in 1933, the Jordan Schnitzer Museum of Art JSMA is a premier visual
arts center in the Pacific Northwest. Located in the heart of University of Oregon
campus, the JSMA is a family-friendly destination that provides innovative and interpretive
exhibits, programs and classes. With four major exhibitions changing yearly
and galleries devoted to art from China, Japan, Korea, America and elsewhere, there is
always something new to see. While at the museum, find the perfect treasure to take
home from Precious Cargo The Museum Store and please your palate with seasonal
and regional cuisine from March Museum Caf.
Image Credit: Lesley Dill. Hell Hell Hell/Heaven Heaven
Heaven: Encountering Sister Gertrude Morgan and Revelation,
2010. Multi-media art installation. Variable dimensions.
Courtesy of the Arthur Roger Gallery, New Orleans
UNIVERSITY OF OREGON
MUSEUM OF NATURAL
AND CULTURAL HISTORY
Take a walk through 15, years of Oregon’s cultural history
and millions more of geologic time at the Museum of
Natural and Cultural History. Features include an interactive
discovery room where children can learn to think like
a scientist, a rotating exhibit hall and an outdoor native
plant courtyard with examples of Willamette Valley and
coastal flora. The museum is open Wednesday-Sunday, 11
a.m. to 5 p.m. General admission is 3, or 8 for families.
Free admission each Wednesday. Guided tours offered
each Friday at 1 p.m. and 3 p.m., free with admission.
LESLEY DIL
Poetic Vision
September 29 – December 09, 2012
Lesley Dill is one of the most prominent
American artists working at the
intersection of language and fine art.
Her elegant sculptures, art installations,
mixed-media photographs, and
evocative performances draw from
both her travels abroad and profound
interests in spirituality and the world’s
faith traditions. The exhibition is organized
by Barbara Matilsky, curator
for Whatcom Museum, Washington.
The exhibition is made possible with
funding from the Coeta and Donald
Barker Changing Exhibitions Endowment
Fund and JSMA members.
541.346.3027 1430 Johnson Ln., Eugene jsma.uoregon.edu
541.346.3024 1680 E. 15th Ave., Eugene natural-history.uoregon.edu
GOLDWORKS
Located in the historic downtown
Broadway and Pearl District, Goldworks
Jewelry creates custom, oneofakind,
hand-crafted jewelry. Your ideas combined
with our technical and design expertise
ensures your satisfaction in the
creation of a unique personal design
with quality and integrity.
MARCHÉ RESTAURANT
& PROVISIONS
March is about celebrating
life and the bountiful Pacific
Northwest with locally grown
and gathered food, prepared
with care, and served in a lively
and elegant atmosphere. The
restaurant takes its name from
the French word for marketa
word that describes not only
Marchs location in the bustling 5th Street Market, but also its philosophy of cooking.
The menu is based on foods from the farmers marketfresh, seasonal and regional.
541.324.3612 296 E 5th Ave., Eugene marcherestaurant.com
THE HILTON EUGENE &
CONFERENCE CENTER
The Hilton Eugene Conference Center presents
29 spacious guestrooms including 15
suites. Rooms offer generous work spaces,
high speed Internet access luxury bathrooms.
The hotel offers two dining options -
Skinners, creative Northwest Cuisine, which
focuses on a fresh farm-to-table concept in
conjunction Share Wine Lounge Bistro, offers
a wide selection of local Oregon wines
and microbrew beers. The open floorplan
providing the ideal location to meet, unwind
and capture the wonderful vibe of unique
downtown Eugene. The Hilton Eugene is a
proud sponsor of the 213 Truffle Festival.
541.342.2000 66 East 6th Avenue, Eugene eugene.hilton.com
EUPHORIA CHOCOLATE COMPANY
Delighting the taste buds of Northwesterners
for thirty years with an array of fresh,
handmade chocolate truffles, Euphoria is
now featuring Oregon wine truffles, gourmet
chocolate sauces, spice trade truffles
and more. With four Eugene company
stores and chocolates sold in hundreds of
gourmet food stores, gift shops, at specialty
retailers, and online, Euphoria has made it
easy to treat someone special to the finest
quality chocolates.
541.343.2298 169 East Broadway, Eugene goldworksart.com
541.344.4914 4 Eugene Locations euphoriachocolate.com
To list your business in 1859's Explore Guide, please contact Ross Johnson 541.550.7081 ross1859magazine.com
1859 oregons mAgAzine SP 2012 11

EXPLORE WILLAMETTE VALLEY
>>
The Willamette Valley is known for its
fantastic Pinot noir and blanc, its fertile
farmland and its state universities—the
University of Oregon Ducks in Eugene,
and Oregon State University Beavers
in Corvallis. The rolling hills and wet
side of the Cascades bring Oregon
much of her bounty with dairies, and
crops of hazelnuts, berries and vegetables.
Pass through this region and its
hundreds of wineries; taste wines and
indulge in a delicious meal made from
the local fertile soils. Whether natural
or sporting events are on the agenda,
lush scenery, marching bands, Ducks
versus Beavers rivalry, locavore food,
top-notch Pinots, and myriad opportunities
for hiking, running, biking and
kayaking are at hand.
DO & SEE
September 8
Chehalem Valley Food,
Wine and Art Festival
Newberg
September 13-16
Oktoberfest
Mount Angel
September 22-23
Corvallis Fall Festival
Corvallis
October 27
Albany Nosh Tour
Albany
For more on Willamette Valley travel,
go to 1859magazine.com/travel
For more information on events,
go to 1859magazine.com/calendar
>>
THE GRAND HOTEL AND
BENTLEY'S GRILL
The Grand Hotel and Bentleys Grill,
Salem’s premiere hotel and fine
dining restaurant, bar, and lounge,
has an elegant downtown atmosphere.
Featuring 193 beautifully appointed
sleeping rooms, The Grand
offers every visitor comfortable
elegance. Enjoy all that downtown
Salem has to offer by staying right
in the heart of it all. Complimentary
underground parking, hot breakfast
buffet, high-speed wireless
internet, indoor pool and spa, and
more await your arrival. The menu
at Bentley’s Grill features Northwest
ingredients with items that include
fresh seasonal seafood, artfully presented
salads, choice steaks, brick
oven artisan pizzas and rotisserie
tender chicken. Enjoy more than
2 varieties of wine, 1 of them
local Oregon wines. Bentleys service
is outstanding, with clientele
ranging from professionals to families
with children.
ADELSHEIM
Established in 1971, the family-owned
and operated winery
and estate vineyards are
located in Oregon’s northern
Willamette Valley. Adelsheim
welcomes visitors to sample
a selection of current releases
in its new tasting room,
overlooking the Calkins Lane
Vineyard. Patio seating is
available for those who buy
a bottle of wine to enjoy during
a leisurely afternoon in
wine country.
Open seven days,
11 a.m. - 4 p.m.
503.540.7800 The Grand Hotel grandhotelsalem.com
503.779.1660 Bentley's 201 Liberty Street, Salem bentleysgrill.com
12 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012
503.538.3652 16800 NE Calkins Lane, Newberg adelsheim. com

WILLAMETTE VALLEY WINES
Join Willamette Valley Wines this fall for an unforgettable wine tasting
experience in the Willamette Valley. Known for its world class Pinot noir,
the Willamette Valley is home to more than 18 wineries and tasting rooms,
each surrounded by beautiful vistas of the Cascade Mountains. Explore quiet
backcountry roads leading to a rustic barnyard tasting room or a stateof-the-art
winery. Taste special releases with winemakers or tour vineyards
amidst the beautiful backdrop of fall colors and excitement of harvest. Visit
our website to request a touring map and guide.
DON’T MISS WINE COUNTRY THANKSGIVING NOVEMBER 22-25, 2012.
MOUNT ANGEL
OKTOBERFEST
Oregons oldest and bestloved folk
festival runs from September 13
through 1 in the village of Mount
Angel. Oktoberfest offers four days
of family-focused activities featuring
alpine music on four stages with the
Donaumusikanten from Germany
and 25 other musical groups, alpine
food chalets, traditional Bavarian folk
dancers, street dancing, a large arts and craft show, free kids’ amusements and activities, sports,
a car show and more. Come celebrate our harvest blessings.
855.899.6338 Mount Angel oktoberfest.org
DOMAINE DROUHIN
The Drouhin Family has been producing exceptional
wines in Burgundy since 188, and in the
Dundee Hills of Oregon since 1988. Fourth-generation
winemaker, Vronique Drouhin-Boss is
widely recognized for her experience, superb palate
and joyful approach to wine and life. These
qualities are easily recognizable in her wines. Her
brother, Philippe Drouhin, is in charge of viticulture,
and his work is shaped by his core commitment
to sustainability and a vision for healthy,
expressive vineyards that will long outlive him. Domaine Drouhin invites you to experience
wines made with French soul from Oregon soil. Open daily, 11-, June through October.
503.864.2700 6750 Breyman Orchard Rd., Dayton domainedrouhin.com
ARBORBROOK VINEYARDS
ArborBrook Vineyards owners, Dave
and Mary Hansen, invite you to an
amazing tasting experience by visiting
the vineyard tasting room and
savoring hand-crafted wines. Located
within the Chehalem Mountains AVA,
ArborBrooks wines are a true representation
of its terroir and sustainable
farming practices. ArborBrooks tasting
room, located in its 191-era barn, is a relaxed atmosphere to sample, savor and
enjoy. Tasting room hours are 11 a.m. 3 p.m daily. No reservations neededjust
stop in for some of the best Pinots in the region.
503.538.0959 17770 NE Calkins Lane, Newberg arborbrookwines.com
WINDERLEA
Luxury wines, limited vines.
Crafting elegant, sensuous and age-worthy
wines for those who view the pairing
of wine and food essential to their lifestyle.
This is what Winderlea is all about.
Winderleas focus is on making small lots
of Pinot noir and Chardonnay that show
the best characteristics of each vineyard.
Hand crafted with minimal intervention
and the modest use of new French oak
barrels, Winderleas wines are classic in
style. Visit Winderlea daily from 11am to
pm.
503.554.5900 8905 NE Worden Hill Rd, Dundee winderlea.com
To list your business in 1859's Explore Guide, please contact Ross Johnson 541.550.7081 ross1859magazine.com
REX HILL
REX HILL has been making elegant Pinot
noirs for 3 years in Oregon’s Willamette
Valley. The landmark winery is
located at the gateway to Oregon’s wine
country and welcomes visitors daily to
their historic tasting room. Estate vineyards,
including the crown jewel Jacob
Hart Vineyard, are farmed to biodynamic
tenets and the winery itself is L.I.V.E.
certified. Now owned by the families at
A to Wineworks, the REX HILL legacy
of superior Pinot noir continues. The
group brings combined Oregon winemaking
experience that spans more
than two decades and three continents
as well as high energy, commitment
and love of Oregon Pinot noir.
Historic Tasting Room
open daily from 10-5 PM
“REX HILL is one of the six top
Vineyards to visit” – Decanter
800.REX.HILL 30835 N Hwy 99W, Newberg rexhill.com
1859 oregons mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012 1

EXPLORE OREGON COAST
>>
Pristine beauty, tide pools and seafood—the
Oregon Coast is a world unto itself.
Thanks to the 1913 political positioning
of Oregon governor, Oswald West, beaches
are publicly owned. Misty and mysterious
cliffs, dunes, and hills make each
visitor feel as if they are the first. Miles of
untouched land can be found between
each quaint town. Explore Oregon's coastal
Highway 101 by car. Discover a treasure
trove of fishing towns embedded with rivers,
state parks and scenic waysides. Take
in Newport's Oregon Coast Aquarium,
Lincoln City's Kite Festival, Bandon's worldclass
golf courses, Seaside's shoreline promenade
and Cannon Beach's haven of
artists, cooks, collectors, connoisseurs and
creative lodging. Smaller beach hamlets
such as Manzanita, Neskowin, Oceanside,
Netarts and Yachats, play host to prime
beach combing for shells and glass floats.
For more on Oregon Coast travel,
go to 1859magazine.com/travel
September 8
Brew and Art Festival
Gold Beach
September 13-16
Rocktemberfest
Rockaway Beach
October 6-7
North Coast
Seafood Festival
Tillamook
October 22
Northwest Art & Air Fest
Lincoln City
>>
DO & SEE
For more information on events,
go to 1859magazine.com/calendar
INN AT SPANISH HEAD
Come experience exceptional
oceanfront lodging and dining
at Oregon’s only resort
hotel built right on the beach
which allows for easy
beach access. All guest and
meeting rooms are oceanfront
with floor-to-ceiling
windows offering breath-taking views. Enjoy the Inn’s gracious oceanfront restaurant
and bar, open daily for breakfast, lunch, dinner and seasonal Sunday
Champagne Brunch. Nearby, you’ll find fascinating tide pools, hiking, shopping,
golf, whale watching, a world-class aquarium, birding, galleries and more.
FREED GALLERY
The Freed Gallery was built as a
showcase for art. The soaring 18-
foot ceiling, the tall corner windows
and the graceful curved
staircase envelop the space in a
quiet, elegant manner. It invites
and challenges the artist to bring
the best canvas, extraordinary
sculpture, unusual metal work,
exciting shaped clay, glistening ceramics, wood turned as if created from
stone, glass of breath-taking hues and design, functional furniture as art, and
exceptional jewelry. Situated across from the Siletz Bay, this gallery on the
incredible Oregon Coast is designed for the artist, local residents and tourists
visiting the coast as their second home or for a wonderful, scenic vacation.
541.994.5600 6119 SW Highway 101, Lincoln City freedgallery.com
800.452.8127 4009 SW Hwy 101, Lincoln City spanishhead.com
BRIDGEWATER BISTRO
Ann and Tony Kischners Bridgewater Bistro
is a full-service restaurant located in Astoria
on the banks of the Columbia River, just
below the majestic Astoria-Megler bridge
to Washington. The restaurant is open seven
days a week, serving lunch, dinner and
Sunday brunch. The bistro offers a diverse
and affordable menu of small plates, soups,
salads and main courses, focusing on local
regional products. Breads and desserts are
baked in house. Order from the full bar and
award-winning wine list.
877.357.6777 20 Basin Street, Astoria bridgewaterbistro.com
14 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012

COLUMBIA RIVER
MARITIME MUSEUM
The Museum features interactive
exhibits that combine history
with cutting-edge technology.
Visitors of all ages will
experience what it is like to
pilot a tugboat, participate in
a Coast Guard rescue on the
Columbia River Bar, and live
in Astoria during the height of
the salmon fishing. Huge windows
make the Columbia River
a living backdrop for classic
fishing vessels and Coast Guard
rescue craft. Experience first
hand how the Bar Pilots work
the dangerous wind and waves
during a fierce winter storm
in the award winning orientation
film The Great River of the
West. Walk on board the bridge
of a WWII era US Navy Destroyer,
see the world class collection
of maritime artifacts, and
then walk out to the dock to
explore the Lightship Columbia,
a floating lighthouse.
Inspired dining on Siletz Bay • Small-plate menu in the lounge
An Oregon landmark since 1978
Forbes 3-star rated AAA 3-diamond rated
Wine Spectator Best Of Award of Excellence
Wednesday through Sunday Lounge opens at 5 p.m.
Dinner service begins at 53 p.m.
reservations recommended
541.996.3222 5911 SW Hwy 101, Lincoln City thebayhouse.org
503.325.2323 1792 Marine Dr., Astoria crmm.org
COTTAGES AT
CAPE KIWANDA
Perched at the oceans edge
looking over Cape Kiwanda
State Natural Area in Pacific
City, each two- and
three-bedroom luxury cottage
offers a one-of-a-kind
view, resort amenities and
personal concierge service.
Blending the best of a fivestar
hotel with the comforts of home, the Cottages at Cape Kiwanda are
available for rent by the night, or for sale in fractional ownership.
866.571.0605 33000 Cape Kiwanda Dr, Pacific City kiwandacottages.com
HALLMARK RESORT-
CANNON BEACH
The Hallmark Resort in Cannon
Beach is oceanfront with spectacular
views from your balcony and
pristine beach just steps away. The
closest to Haystack Rock, it offers
kitchenettes, cozy fireplaces, inroom
spas, wi-fi, coffee, and legendary
customer service. Relax in a
two-person whirlpool tub or bring
the family and enjoy our pool, sauna and Fitness Center. Experience our full-service onsite
SPA, featuring a complete menu to pamper yourself. Pets are welcome
888.448.4449 1400 South Hemlock, Cannon Beach hallmarkinn.com
LODGES AT CANNON BEACH
The Lodges at Cannon Beach offer options for full or shared ownership, fulfilling
your life-long dream of living the beach lifestyle. Warm and welcoming,
these comfortable new townhomes are complete with a master bedroom and
bath, featuring a see-through fireplace choice of one or two guest bedrooms
and open floor plans with a great room, dining room, and island diningall of
which open to a state-of-the-art kitchen with exquisite amenities. Toast your
toes by a beach bonfire, fly a kite in the sea breezes or indulge in quiet days
living like a local in Cannon Beach. For information or property tours, contact
Steve Crane. For short-term rentals, visit the website.
503.440.6310 132 E. Surfcrest, Cannon Beach lodgesatcannonbeach.com
SEASIDE OUTLET MALLS
The Seaside Factory Outlet
Center is located on Oregon’s
beautiful north coastjust five
blocks from downtown’s historic
oceanfront promenade and
beach. Shoppers will find a wide
variety of apparel and accessories
for all agesranging from
upscale fashion to affordable casual lines, footwear, kitchen accessories, vitamins,
specialty food and confections. The Seaside Factory Outlet Center is also home to
one of the best wine and beer shops on the Oregon Coast with more than 3 imported
and domestic beers and daily wine tasting.
503.717.1603 1111 N. Roosevelt Drive, Seaside seasideoutlets.com
To list your business in 1859's Explore Guide, please contact Ross Johnson 541.550.7081 ross1859magazine.com
1859 oregons mAgAzine SP 2012 1

EXPLORE COLUMBIA RIVER GORGE
>>
A waterman’s paradise, lovers of windsurfing,
sailing, stand-up paddling and all
things water-oriented find happiness in
the Columbia River Gorge. Jutting cliffs,
enormous waterfalls and miles of fruit
trees line the Columbia River, which marks
the Washington-Oregon border. Closer
to Portland, wet climate creates verdant
rainforest conditions. Farther east along
the river, high desert landscape stretches
for miles. Historic tours of Native American
life and Lewis & Clark’s adventures can
keep anyone exploring for hours. Inland,
sweet and juicy, delectable fruits ripen at
the various “fruit loops,” with acres of orchards
and more than two dozen wineries.
In the many riverfront towns, discover
the gems in locally owned shops, microbreweries
and restaurants.
DO & SEE
September 8
Farm to Fork
Hood River Valley
Parkdale
September 8-9
Festival of Nations
Cascade Locks
September 29
Hood River Hops Fest
Hood River
October 19-21
Hood River Valley
Harvest Fest
Hood River
For More On Columbia Gorge Travel,
Go To 1859magazine.com/travel
For more information on events,
go to 1859magazine.com/calendar
>>
HOOD RIVER HOTEL
Tap the heart of the Gorge.
Lovingly restored, the
1-year-old hotel delivers
New World amenities with
Old World charm. Inside and
out, the pulse of Hood River
begins here. Walk to five
wine-tasting rooms. Shop
artisan jewelers, high fashion
and fine art. Savor craft beer
and dining delights. Choose your toy for kiting, sailing, fishing, biking or floating. Ride the
rails. Stroll to a river. Tour an orchard, waterfall or volcanic peakstarting here.
800.386.1859 102 Oak Ave., Hood River hoodriverhotel.com
16 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012
CELILO RESTAURANT
Located in the heart of downtown Hood River,
Celilo offers Pacific Northwest cuisine with
fresh, locally grown products. The dining
room is a perfect blend of sophistication and
comfort, featuring work by local artists and
craftsmen. The menu is complemented with
an extensive wine list and full bar. Join Celilo
for daily happy hour specials, and check the
website for special wine dinners and cooking
class events. Open for lunch 113 a.m. to 3
p.m. and dinner from 5 p.m. seven days a
week, year-round.
541.386.5710 16 Oak Street, Hood River celilorestaurant.com
DOUBLE MOUNTAIN
BREWERY & TAPROOM
Hood River’s favorite destination for
top-quality craft beer, beautiful brickoven
pizzas and a relaxed, welcoming
local vibe. Sidewalk seating is
available in the warmer months.
Free live music every weekend. The
Taproom is located at 8 Fourth Street
in downtown Hood River, right behind
the post office. Open at 113 a.m.,
seven days a week.
541.387.0042 8 Fourth Street, Hood River doublemountainbrewery.com
SUNSHINE MILL
The Historic Sunshine Mill Winery
has turned a cavernous 1-yearold
flour mill into an extraordinary
space to taste wines from family
owned and operated wineries uenett
and Copa Di Vino, the only readyto-drink
wine in North America. Live
music can be heard on Friday evenings
in the amphitheater, constructed from the foundation of the original
wooden flour mill. For an enchanting Saturday evening, grab a glass of infandel,
play a game of bocce ball and enjoy classic movies projected onto the
silos at The Historic Sunshine Mill Winery in The Dalles, Oregon.
541.298.8900 901 E. 2nd Street, The Dalles sunshinemill.com

CATHEDRAL RIDGE
Oregons Winery of the Year 27, Cathedral
Ridge Winery is located in the middle
of a forty-mile stretch in the Columbia
Valley with micro-climates that almost
perfectly duplicate four of the worlds
most renowned grape-growing regions
Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhone and Rhine.
Winemaker Michael Sebastini combines
these superb grapes with a classic and
time-honored winemaking process,
which has resulted in more than 13
award-winning craft wines.
has also named Cathedral
Ridge Winery one of the Top 1 great
Northwest wine country
picnic spots, which is no
surprise given the scenic
vistas and lush vineyard.
Experience what makes
Cathedral Ridge so special.
Visit the winery and
tasting room in Hood
River or shop online.
541.386.2882 4200 Post Canyon Drive, Hood River cathedralridgewinery.com
SOLSTICE WOOD FIRE CAFÉ
& SOLSTICE MOBILE PIZZA
Serving inventive and award-winning
pizzas, paninis, salads, and wood-fired
entres, Stolstice partners with more
than thirty-five local farmers to bring
you the tastiest food in the Gorge. Six
craft beers on tap, local wines and gluten-free
options are available. Solstice’s
Country Girl Cherry Pizza was named
best pizza in Washington by
. Book the Solstice Mobile
wood-fired oven for your party or catering
event
509.493.4006 415 W. Steuben St., Bingen, WA solsticewoodfirecafe.com
KAZE
Traditional Japanese Cuisine
Dine with Kaze and experience the
whirlwind of Kaze flavors. Kaze
serves traditional Japanese cuisine
and sushi that will make your
mouth water. Authentic dishes include
tempura, udon noodles, rice
bowls, curry, bento boxes and set
meals, as well as exotic desserts. Kaze also serves wine, sake and Japanese
beers such as Kirin, Sapporo, Asahi, and Morimoto ales. Enjoy views from
the indoor/outdoor deck or sit at the sushi bar. Kids menu available. Open
Tuesday-Sunday at 5 p.m.
BONNEVILLE HOT SPRINGS
RESORT & SPA
Relax and refresh at the Northwest’s
premier mineral spring resort. Enjoy
a soak in the indoor mineral lap
pool and jetted soaking tubs. Pamper
yourself in the European-style
bath house with a signature bath
and wrap, a rejuvenating facial or
a blissful body treatment. The casual
elegance of the great room will
embrace you with its impressive floor-to-ceiling river rock fireplace. Settle in for the
evening in one of the spacious guest rooms, many with private hot tubs on the balcony.
888.903.4958 1252 East Cascade Drive, Bonneville, WA. bonnevilleresort.com
COLUMBIA GORGE HOTEL
Nestled in the heart of the
majestic Columbia River Gorge
only sixty minutes east of
Portland, the historic Columbia
Gorge Hotel refreshes the spirit
with lush flowering gardens,
pure mountain air and Old
World Mediterranean charm.
Whether you are looking for
a getaway, a premier meeting
facility, an idyllic wedding
location, a fabulous meal of
Northwest food and wine, or
just a trip to the relaxing spa,
you will create a memory at
the Columbia Gorge Hotel and
Spa in Hood River.
800.345.1921 4000 Westcliff Drive, Hood River columbiagorgehotel.com
DOPPIO COFFEE + LOUNGE
Relax on Doppio Coffees outdoor patio, right in the
heart of downtown. Enjoy a hand-crafted espresso
or latte made with locally roasted, fair trade and
organic coffee. Serving breakfast and lunch all
day, including panini, salads, smoothies, and fresh
baked goods. Several vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free
options are available, complemented with
local beers on tap, and local wines by the glass or
bottle. Wi-fi is free, and the patio is dog-friendly.
Doppio strives to source organic and local products.
Open daily at 7 a.m.
541.387.0434 212 4th Street, Hood River 541.386.3000 310 Oak Street, Hood River doppiohoodriver.com
1859 oregons mAgAzine SP 2012 1
To list your business in 1859's Explore Guide, please contact Ross Johnson 541.550.7081 ross1859magazine.com

EXPLORE MT. HOOD
PORTLAND
>>
The grand altitude of Oregon, Mt.
Hood territory is literally at the top of the
great outdoors. Thick forest is interrupted
only by rivers, with the Salmon intersecting
the Sandy and flowing on north
to the Columbia River. When snow levels
recede, hikers explore trailheads
and cyclists tread the roads and mountains.
Casual and fine dining awaits all
palates at the base of Oregon's premier
year-round destination for Alpine skiing.
Tailored around the active traveler, all
sides of Mt. Hood offer many of things to
do. Hike to waterfalls, soak in a mineral
bath, relax at glacial Mirror Lake and
then settle down with a couple of local
microbrews. Mountain bike or Nordic ski
through a fir forest through sagebrush,
then sample wines or eat sushi. Sports,
comfort and awe-inspiring geology are
all at home in this high elevation, just an
hour from the Portland metropolis.
For More On Mt. Hood Travel,
Go To 1859magazine.com/travel
September 9
Nicky USA Wild About
Game Dinner
Timberline Lodge
September 22-23
End of Season Fun
Mountain Bike Races
Mount Hood Skibowl
September 23
Mt. Hood Heritage Day
Government Camp
October 6-7
Mt. Hood Salmon and
Mushroom Festival
>>
DO & SEE
Mt. Hood Village
For more information on events,
go to 1859magazine.com/calendar
MT. HOOD CABINS FOR
ALL SEASONS
FALL FOLIAGE SPECIAL Come stay in
any of All Seasons vacation homes
from Sept 15 October 31, 212 and
receive 5 off the nightly rate Two
night minimum. All Seasons offers the
finest vacation homes in the Villages of Mt
Hood. Choose from cozy vintage cabins to
sleek, spacious lodges. Come and enjoy Mt
Hood’s autumn colors, quite surroundings and fall activities. Hike in the autumn
foliage, mushroom hunt or just enjoy some of our waterfront homes.
Give us a call and mention “FALL FOLIAGE” to receive 50% off your stay.
503.622.1142 23804 E Greenwood Ave., Welches mthoodrent.com
The Resort at The Mountain
Get away from it all, less than an
hour from Portland, at Mt. Hood.
At The Resort, air and minds are
clear, and face-time replaces
Facebook. Here you can swim,
hike, mt.bike and tee off on The
Courses. Experience total relaxation
at the spa. Dine delightfully
at Altitude and Mallards Caf
Pub. Photgraph nature and forage berries, or simply breath in your surroundings.
Now you can do it all with The All-Inclusive Resort Packages which includes
a guest room, two dinner entres and breakfast for two, plus two 18-hole
rounds of golf or two 5-minute spa treatments. Use Promo Code ALLIN.
877.439.6774 Just off Hwy 26 in Welches TheResort.com
1 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012
RENDEZVOUS
With innovative
food at reasonable
prices, The Rendezvous
has become a
true Mt. Hood destination. Seasonal menus incorporate many local products, including
chanterelle mushrooms and huckleberries. Great local produce has helped The
Rendezvous develop a reputation for fantastic entrees and devastating desserts. The
Rendezvous Grill is open for lunch and dinner, featuring small plates, a light menu
and a full bar. The classy and comfortable atmosphere, great food and rotating Northwest
wine selection makes the Rendezvous a top stop on the way to Mt. Hood.
What's new at the Vous?
503.622.6837 67149 E Hwy 26, Welches rendezvousgrill.net
VALIAN'S SKI SHOP
The good stuff since 198. Valians Ski
Shop is located in the Government
Camp Financial District. Valians offers
specialty tuning and repairs,
as well as race equipment, armor,
protection, gloves, and waxes. Apparel
includes ski and snowboard
clothing, sweaters, resort wear and
accessories with a large assortment
of goggles, hats and anything else
you need for fun in the snow. Equipment
sales, demos and rentals are available for alpine, snowboard, cross country, and snow
shoes. Open every day, including major holidays. Rossignol, Full Tilt, HESTRA, POC.
503.272.3525 HWY 26 Business Loop, Government Camp valiansskishop.com

EXPLORE EASTERN OREGON
>>
Still largely raw, wide open and undiscovered,
the Eastern Oregon gem is
worth mining. There are not too many
beautiful, yet undeveloped spaces left
to discover in this world like this experience-rich
region. Unmatched camping
in the desert or tree-lined mountains is
complete with breath-taking star-gazing.
Back country powder and canyon
fishing expose wonders both high and
low. Ride horses in the Steens Mountain
Wilderness; horse-pack or llama trek
into the Wallowas—often called the
North American Swiss Alps, and float
the wild and remote rivers. Besides its
obvious splendor, Eastern Oregon is
home to a mix of people as varied as
the population is small. Sunstone miners,
bronze sculptors, ranchers raising
grass-fed beef, artists, writers, musicians
and Pendleton Round-Up rodeo-ers coincide
in this slice of Oregon's Wild West.
DO & SEE
September 22
Rollin' on the River
Boardman
September 7-9
Hells Canyon Mule Days
Enterprise
September 27-30
Alpenfest in the Wallowas
Joseph / Wallowa Lake
October 18-20
Eastern Oregon
Film Festival
La Grande
For more on Eastern Oregon travel,
go to 1859magazine.com/travel
For more information on events,
go to 1859magazine.com/calendar
>>
VISIT EASTERN
OREGON
Ever go on a ride that
feels more like a parade?
Don’t. Eastern Oregon is
a place where not just
the hills and valleys will
take your breath away.
Its also the landscape.
Discover secret scenic
bikeways and cycling
routes with curves perfect
for two wheels.
SUMMER LAKE HOT SPRINGS
Summer Lake Hot Springs is located
in the Oregon Outback, two hours
southeast of Bend on Highway 31.
Natural hot mineral springs flow
through outdoor rock pools and into
the historic bath-house at 113 degrees.
High desert activities include
wildlife viewing, hiking, mountain
bike riding, fly-fishing and star gazing.
Accommodations include cozy geothermal heated cabins, a guest house,
RV sites and camping. Come heal your body and soul at Summer Lake.
541.943.3931 Milepost 92, Hwy 31, Paisley summerlakehotsprings.com
Just Don’t Tell
Everyone!
Visit the outdoor fun page at
VisitEasternOregon.com
To list your business in 1859's Explore Guide, please contact Ross Johnson 541.550.7081 ross1859magazine.com
TRAVEL PENDLETON
Pendleton is an opportunity to not only learn
the history of the Old West but to see the number
one true Western town of today Historians
will tell you the heyday of the American cowboy
lasted until about the 189s. Guess they
forgot to send Pendleton the memo. Rich tradition.
Fine craftsmanship. Legendary reputation.
Working saddle shops, a hat company, custom
silversmiths, several museums and art galleries,
tours of the original Pendleton Woolen Mills,
the famous Pendleton Underground, and great
dining and lodging options await you.
800.547.8911 pendletonchamber.com
1859 oregons mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012 1

EXPLORE CENTRAL OREGON
>>
PORTLAND
Once dwellers of high desert logging
country, Central Oregonians
now spend most of their time logging
miles on their bikes, skis and hiking
boots. Quality of life is the way of life
in this blue-sky country. Absent any
one major industry—aside from sports
medicine—many residents telecommute
to jobs in larger cities or partake
in creative local ventures. After more
than doubling its population in the
early 2000s, Bend’s emerging culture
is full of active recreaters and stimulating
ventures. At the center is a thriving
music scene, casual fine dining, craft
beer and breweries—along with an
ever-increasing cosmopolitan flavor.
The Cascade High Lakes, Deschutes
River and old lava flows, among endless
other outdoor wonders, are minutes
away to fly-fish, stand up paddle
or hit the trails in Central Oregon.
For more on Central Oregon,
go to 1859magazine.com/travel
>>
DO & SEE
September 5
USA Cycling Masters
Road National
Championships
Bend
September 14-16
La Pine Heritage
Celebration
La Pine
October 5-7
Bend Fall Festival
Bend
October 18-20
Fly-Fishing National
Championships
Bend
For more information on events,
go to 1859magazine.com/calendar
SEVENTH MOUNTAIN
Located in the heart of Central
Oregon, Seventh Mountain Resort
is a year-round paradise
encircled by peaks, lakes and
meadows. Offering a special
brand of hospitality shrouded
in natural splendor, the resort
provides the perfect destination
for families, groups and
adventure seekers. Enjoy the
closest lodging to Mt. Bachelor,
Oregon’s most celebrated
ski and snowboard localejust
fourteen miles from Bend. Seventh
Mountains condominiums
provide the perfect accommodation
for any occasion.
855.203.8513 8575 SW Century Dr., Bend seventhmountain.com
140 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012
HIGH DESERT MUSEUM
Meet live owls, hawks, eagles, porcupines,
an otter, a bobcat and more animals
close up. Explore the Spirit of the
West exhibit with its recreated 188s
settlement town and live historical performers.
Chat with stage coach drivers,
homesteaders and others whose grit
and determination shaped the region.
Explore a renowned Native American
collection, children’s hands-on play
spaces, outdoor educational trails and special events featuring experts of the arts and
sciences. Multigenerational, multisensory lifelong learning and fun.
541.382.4754 59800 Hwy 97, Bend highdesertmuseum.org
SCANLON'S
Located in the Athletic
Club of Bend, Scanlons
serves award-winning
and healthy cuisine.
Open to the public,
members and guests enjoy
fine dining in a warm
and friendly atmosphere.
Scanlons is the perfect
place for all occasions,
from a romantic evening
to family dining. Dinner reservations are always recommended. If you have
children, child care is free with a reservation.
541.382.8769 61615 Mt. Bachelor Dr., Bend athleticclubofbend.com

LA ROSA
Voted Best Mexican Restaurant seven years in a row with authentic Mexican flavors and recipes,
La Rosa’s Mexican restaurant is a Bend favorite, located on the west side in Northwest Crossing’s
Town Center. La Rosa takes pride in highquality ingredients, authentic Mexican food and great
service. Open daily for dining in or taking out. And don’t forget La Rosa for Bend’s best late-night
dining choice. La Rosa offers private parties, special events, conferences and catering.
Coming Soon! a second location in the Brookswood Meadow Plaza
541.647.1624 2763 NW Crossing Dr., Bend larosabend.com
KAREN BANDY
Award-winning designer Karen Bandy has
been creating beautiful, original, ready-towear
wedding, anniversary and everyday
jewelry for twenty-five years in Central Oregon.
Karen can also work with you, updating
and recycling your existing jewelry to
fit your 21st century lifestyle. While there,
check out Karens bold, colorful and energetic
acrylic paintings. Hard to find, but
worth the effort. Call Karen today.
541.388.0155 25 NW Minnesota #5, Bend karenbandy.com
CASCADE LAKES BREWING
COMPANY LODGE
Located in the heart of Bend’s westside recreation
mecca, Cascade Lakes Brewing Company Lodge is
the top spot for aprs ski, mountain bike and golf in
Bend. The Lodge has some of the best hand-crafted
beers in a town known for its microbrew scene,
with popular choices like Blonde Bombshell and
Cyclops IPA, to name a couple. Both the bar and the
restaurant have multiple flat screen televisions with
current sports and events rolling seven days a week
from 113 a.m. until 113 p.m. Enjoy dinner, craft brews, happy hour, billiards and darts. Located
on the way down from Mt. Bachelor on the Colorado and Century Drive roundabout.
541.388.4998 1441 SW Chandler, Bend cascadelakes.com
PORTELLO
WINECAFE
Located in Northwest
Crossing, portello
winecafe is
an award winning
European inspired
wine bar and cafe
serving a fresh and
diverse menu. Portello
features an
urban interior and atmosphere, rotating wine selections by the
glass, rare bottle selections, and international and local beers.
Open for Dinner 7 nights a week, and Lunch Wed-Sat.
541 385 1777 2754 NW Crossing Dr., Bend portellowinecafe.com
BOOK & BEAN
Book Bean offers
books, music, movies,
gifts and toys
for the whole family.
Vintage and used
book sections add
to the experience,
along with a selection of products from local artists, authors and musicians. Relax using
the free wi-fi while enjoying the variety of Brew Bar coffee, espresso drinks, local
organic teas and food from the gluten-free cafe. Live events, daily specials and new
items are listed online at facebook.com/booknbean. Stop by and check out Prinevilles
cultural hotspot, and you just may be surprised at what you will find.
541.447.3778 1595 Northeast 3rd Street, Prineville bookandbean.com
OLD SCHOOL FURNITURE CREATIONS
At Old School Furniture Creations, Gary and Tracy have a
combined thirty years of experience in the woodworking
industry. Ready to help you with all your custom
furniture and cabinet needs, they can build it just the
way you dreamed it. From that one piece of furniture
to help you tie the room together to a whole house full
of furniture and cabinetry, or from old school to new
schoolGary and Tracy can create a masterpiece to suit
your style.
541.610.4014
541.390.9952 1905 NE 2nd St., Bend oldschoolbend.com
900 WALL
The inspiration for 9 Wall comes from our
sincere desire to be a strong part of the Central
Oregon community. We bring our guests outstanding
food, drink and service in a comfortable,
social atmosphere. We want this to be your gahering
place for any special occasion. We arent
afraid to have a lot of fun with it too Check out
our fine selection of sparkling wines by the glass.
541.323.6295 900 Wall Street, Bend 900wall.com
To list your business in 1859's Explore Guide, please contact Ross Johnson 541.550.7081 ross1859magazine.com
1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012 141

EXPLORE SOUTHERN OREGON
PORTLAND
>>
Theater and adventure constitute the
backbone Southern Oregon. This vast
region encompasses a top-notch Elizabethan
outdoor stage at the Oregon
Shakespeare Festival in Ashland, as well
as ventures such as the up-and-coming
warm-varietal wine growing regions of
the Umpqua, Rogue, Illinois and Applegate
valleys. To the east is Crater Lake,
Oregon's only National Park, established
by President Theodore Roosevelt
in 1902. Nestled into the high country,
this and many other lakes and trails
await exploration. Take a history lesson
in Jacksonville, and learn about the
region’s gold rush past. Don't forget to
raft the Wild and Scenic Rogue, attend
Paisley's famed Mosquito Festival, tour
Oregon Caves National Monument,
wine taste throughout the area and explore
Ashland's chocolate culture.
DO & SEE
September 7-9
Melon Festival
Winston
September 21-23
Harvest Fair and
Micro-Brew Festival
Central Point
October 6-7
Art Along the Rogue
Grants Pass
October 19-20
Klamath Basin
Potato Festival
Merrill
For more on Southern Oregon travel,
go to 1859magazine.com/travelt
For more information on events,
go to 1859magazine.com/calendar
>>
THE WINCHESTER INN
The Winchester Inn is only two
blocks from downtown and the Oregon
Shakespeare Festival. It offers
affordable luxury and exquisite dining
that showcases local ingredients,
using global inspiration. Named
Best Chef 212 by Pamela Laniers
BB Guide and voted as one of the
top seventy-five hotels in the U.S by
Cond Nast Reader’s Poll, the Inn
has nineteen rooms and suites. called the Winchester Ashlands premier historic
inn. Wine Spectator Award of Excellence 2-211.
800.972.4991 35 S. Second St., Ashland winchesterinn.com
DISCOVER APPLEGATE
VALLEY WINE TRAIL
Life slows a pace or two in the picturesque Applegate Valley. Small wineries
with big wines can be found all along the meandering roads and rivers. Come
meet the grape growers, step into their vineyards and share a glass of wine.
Wine Country the way it should be.
Sunset Magazine
For more reasons why the Applegate Valley Wine Trail is a Southern Oregon
vacation must-do, visit
applegatewinetrail.com
142 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012
STEAMBOAT INN
Located along the North
Umpqua, one of Oregon’s most
stunning rivers, Steamboat Inn
is the perfect place to end your
day. Enjoy myriad outdoor activities
ranging from hiking to
walking among wildflowers
and waterfalls, visiting Crater
Lake National Park, fly-fishing
for steelhead, or just sitting on
the deck reading and watching the river flow by. The Inn is also known for its
cuisine, and the acclaimed guest chef and winemaker dinner program.
800.840.8825 42705 N. Umpqua Hwy, Idleyld Park thesteamboatinn.com

THE WEASKU INN
The Weasku Inn, built in 192 as
a fishing lodge along the banks
of the Rogue River, offers guests
a peek at life in an earlier era of
the Pacific Northwest. As a vacation
retreat to such legendary
personalities as Clark Gable,
Bing Crosby and Walt Disney, the
walls of the lodge seem to still
whisper age-old fishing tales
from visitors past. Weasku guests
receive a complimentary deluxe
continental breakfast, afternoon
hors d’oeuvre wine reception
and fresh baked cookies at night.
While maintaining the historic
feel, the Weasku Inn has been
modernized over the years and
now includes wi-fi throughout.
541.471.8000 5560 Rogue River Hwy., Grants Pass weaskuinn.com
HELLGATE JETBOAT
EXCURSIONS
Experience Hellgate Jetboat Excursions
famous 3-degree spins this summer
and enjoy the beauty of the Rogue River.
All trips take you through spectacular
Hellgate Canyon, with its 25-foot rock
walls and 1-foot deep water. Wildlife
viewing also creates great photo opportunities
for deer, Great Blue Herons and
Bald Eagles. Choose from four different trips, starting at 39 Whitewater
Adventure, 2-hour Scenic, Champagne Brunch, lunch or dinner trips. Or dine family style on relaxing
lodge decks overlooking the Rogue River at the exclusive OK Corral Lodge, accessed by boat only.
1.800.648.4874 hellgate.com
ART ALONG THE ROGUE
2012 STREET PAINTING
AND MUSIC FESTIVAL
Art Along the Rogue Street Painting and
Music Festival 1th Anniversary will be
held the weekend of October -7 on H
Street in Grants Pass. This event features
up to fourty local and regional street
painters, music from top regional bands,
a Tap Walk, and Doggy Art Walk. Admission
is free. This year’s featured artist is
internationally acclaimed Los Angeles street painter Melanie Stimmell, who will create a huge 3-D
drawing of the popular online game Angry Birds. Children and adults draw street-side with the
pros by purchasing a 2 foot x 2 foot square and pastels to create their own masterpiece.
artalongtherogue.com
CALLAHAN’S
MOUNTAIN LODGE
Landmark Est. 197 Callahan’s
Mountain Lodge, a full-service
lodging and dining getaway
nests in the Siskiyou Mountains
in a tree-lined canyon ten minutes
above and south of Ashland.
Nineteen amazing rooms,
with Jacuzzi tubs and woodburning
fireplaces, include a
chef-prepared breakfast. No minimum stay, skier and hiker friendly, midweek specials,
banquet facilities, bus tours welcome. Open year-round for breakfast, lunch and
dinner with live music nightly . . . the perfect place to spend precious time.
800.286.0507 On I-5 at the Mount Ashland Exit 6 callahanslodge.com
HARRY & DAVID
Think pink and give a gift
that makes a difference. The
Noreen Fraser Foundation
is dedicated to raising funds
for developing new preventative
methods, diagnostic tools
and non-toxic therapies for
women’s cancer. Noreen Fraser
is a breast cancer survivor
living with Stage IV breast
cancer. For the past six years,
Noreen has dedicated herself,
with the help of many others,
to urge women to be proactive
about their health. The
NFF supports research for all
women’s reproductive cancer.
They promote a multi-disciplinary
approach and collaboration
among researchers
in the various fields of women’s
cancer. This gift comes
in a fashionable, highquality
tote bag and includes our
famous Royal Riviera Pears
wrapped in pink foil.
harryanddavid.com
289 Pink Pear Gift Tote 29.95
25183 Pink Pear Gift Basket 39.95
ABACELA VINEYARDS AND
WINERY
Located in the heart of the beautiful
Umpqua Valley, Abacela represents
more than quality wine.
Pioneering traditional old world
varieties, such as Tempranillo and
Albarino, put Abacela on the map
in the new world and beyond with
their ideal terroir match. In addition
to the Spanish grapes, Estate
Grown varietals also include Dolcetto, Malbec, Viogner and Syrahto name a few
each varietal is laced with depth and intriguing nuances. Visit the new Vine and
Wine Center and enjoy the views, the wine and the experience. Cheers
541.679.6642 12500 Lookingglass Rd, Roseburg abacela.com
To list your business in 1859's Explore Guide, please contact Ross Johnson 541.550.7081 ross1859magazine.com
1859 oregons mAgAzine SP 2012 14

EXPLORE PORTLAND
>>
PORTLAND
Portland is a city strongly defined
by its neighborhoods—each known
for a lifestyle complete with arts, eats
and oddities. Portland's central feature
is the Willamette River, splitting
this green—both vegetative and
eco-minded—Oregon hub down the
center. View the eclectic city from
one of the many famous bridges that
link the city together. From its craft
beers to neighborhood coffee, locavore
dining and, of course, bikes,
Portland is the Northwest's culture
cauldron and creative den. An undercurrent
of activism lines most major
happenings. Take in the thriving
arts scene brimming with nonprofits,
writers, painters, filmmakers, dancers,
musicians and performance artists
or escape the buzz on one of the
many urban trails.
DO & SEE
September 29
Annual Cider Squeeze
Eagle Creek
October 1-30
Halloween Fantasy Trail
Oregon City
October 7
Portland Marathon
Portland
October 23-26
EcoDistricts Summit
Portland
For more on Portland travel,
Go To 1859magazine.com/travel
For more information on events,
go to 1859magazine.com/calendar
>>
LUCIA FINE JEWELERS
Welcome to Lucia Fine Jewelers, a
family-owned business proud to
bring you an amazing selection of
diamonds, colored gem stones, pearls
and unique timepieces to fit any budget.
The store features many jewelry
brands including Paula Crevoshay,
Adami Martucci, Rebecca, and Pandora. Exceptional watch lines including Carl F.
Bucherer, Ulysse Nardin and Frederique Constant can be found as well. Lucia Fine
Jewelers offers the Pacific Northwest’s most distinguished collection of fine jewelry,
watches, gifts, and one of a kind artifacts and crystals from around the world.
503.684.4400 7387 SW Bridgeport Rd, Tigard luciafinejewelers.com
HOPWORKS URBAN
BREWERY & BIKEBAR
Hopworks Urban Brewery and
Hopworks BikeBar are Portland’s
first eco-brewpubs. Each pub offers
hand-crafted organic beers
and a menu featuring fresh, local
ingredients, all served in sustainably
built and operated buildings
with a relaxed, casual atmosphere.
Hopworks’ twenty-barrel brewery produces 8,5 barrels of beer a year
for its brewpubs and distribution in Oregon, Washington and British Columbia.
503.287.MALT 3947 N. Williams Ave. Bikebar
503.232.HOPS 2944 SE Powell Blvd. hopworksbeer.com
144 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SEPT OCT 2012
VIA DELIZIA
Located in the heart of the
Pearl District, this charming
Mediterranean-style bistro offers
breakfast, lunch, dinner
and happy hour, using locally
grown, organic ingredients
to create a diverse menu. City
Search voted Via Delizia as The
Best Coffee in Portland. Gelato,
made on site from European
ingredients, is authentic and the best around. The outside caf facing Tanner Park is a
perfect place to enjoy the perfect meal and a glass of fine wine or chilled beer.
503.225.9300 1105 Northwest Marshall St., Portland viadelizia.com
PARAGON RESTAURANT
Paragon Restaurant in Portland is
a lively and sophisticated neighborhood
restaurant and bar featuring
American brasserie-style
cuisine, tempting house-made
desserts and signature cocktails.
Located in the heart of the historic
Pearl District, the dcor of
this Portland restaurant reflects
the airy, spacious style of the surrounding
art galleries.
503.833.5060 1309 NW Hoyt, Portland paragonrestaurant.com

What’s your OQ?
This position in Oregon sawmills shown below was almost
the bottom of the ladder, with night watchman being the lowest.
What were these mill workers called?
Answer for a chance to win
Answer this question at 1859magazine.com/whats-your-oq
for a chance to win a night at Hotel Lucia in Portland.
Gina James of Portland won
the previous OQ. She correctly
answered that the photographer
who shot this Depressionera
photo in Oregon was
Dorothea Lange.

map of oregon
1859 Mapped
The points of interest below are culled from
stories and events in this edition of 1859.
Haunted PAGE 88
PORTLAND UNDERGROUND / SHANGHAI
TUNNELS, Portland
HECETA HEAD LIGHTHOUSE, Yachats
MCMENAMINS’ EDGEFIELD, Troutdale
JACKSONVILLE HISTORIC CEMETERY,
Jacksonville
THE OREGON VORTEX, Gold HIll
3
1 6
4
5
8
CASCADE RANGE
7
6
2
72 Hours [pg. 36]
Come fall, Corvallis is hopping with Beaver
fever, local brews, sustainable farms
and trails galore.
road reconsidered [pg. 34]
Enjoy the colorful bounty in former gold
country on Highway 238. Get moving in
the lush Applegate Valley via hang-glider
or roadway, and relish the old days with
a ride on the Jacksonville trolley tour.
smith rock [pg. 118]
The pioneers of climbing have left bolts
on Monkey Face and To Bolt or Not To Be
for generations of new adventurers to
come. Clip in at one of the original North
American sport climbing destinations on
the banks of the Crooked River in Central
Oregon. Belay on? On belay.
national Fly-Fishing Championships
[pg. 26]
October 17-21
Watch the country’s best competitive anglers
vie for the ultimate U.S. title in Bend this fall.
Discover why Bend has made the shortlist of fly
fishing havens for yourself.
Pears [pg. 100]
Jewels such as Anjou and Star Crimson are
abundant in the Hood River Valley. Bake pears
into a pie or chop them into a savory salad.
salmon river [pg. 76]
Bring a rain jacket and explore the riverbed or
the junction of fresh and sea waters near the
border of Lincoln and Tillamook counties. You
may even spot one of the famed 25-pounder
Chinook making their journey back upstream.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
Coffee Roasters page 24
Ristretto, Portland
Noble, Ashland
Sleepy Monk, Cannon Beach
Motley Brew, Joseph
Full City, Eugene
Mellelo, Medford
Good Bean, Jacksonville
11R, Bend
146 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SPRING 2012

What’s your OQ?
This position in Oregon sawmills shown below was almost
the bottom of the ladder, with night watchman being the lowest.
What were these mill workers called?
Answer for a chance to win
Answer this question at 1859magazine.com/whats-your-oq
for a chance to win a night at Hotel Lucia in Portland.
Gina James of Portland won
the previous OQ. She correctly
answered that the photographer
who shot this Depressionera
photo in Oregon was
Dorothea Lange.

map of oregon
1859 Mapped
The points of interest below are culled from
stories and events in this edition of 1859.
Haunted PAGE 88
PORTLAND UNDERGROUND / SHANGHAI
TUNNELS, Portland
HECETA HEAD LIGHTHOUSE, Yachats
MCMENAMINS’ EDGEFIELD, Troutdale
JACKSONVILLE HISTORIC CEMETERY,
Jacksonville
THE OREGON VORTEX, Gold HIll
3
1 6
4
5
8
CASCADE RANGE
7
6
2
72 Hours [pg. 36]
Come fall, Corvallis is hopping with Beaver
fever, local brews, sustainable farms
and trails galore.
road reconsidered [pg. 34]
Enjoy the colorful bounty in former gold
country on Highway 238. Get moving in
the lush Applegate Valley via hang-glider
or roadway, and relish the old days with
a ride on the Jacksonville trolley tour.
smith rock [pg. 118]
The pioneers of climbing have left bolts
on Monkey Face and To Bolt or Not To Be
for generations of new adventurers to
come. Clip in at one of the original North
American sport climbing destinations on
the banks of the Crooked River in Central
Oregon. Belay on? On belay.
national Fly-Fishing Championships
[pg. 26]
October 17-21
Watch the country’s best competitive anglers
vie for the ultimate U.S. title in Bend this fall.
Discover why Bend has made the shortlist of fly
fishing havens for yourself.
Pears [pg. 100]
Jewels such as Anjou and Star Crimson are
abundant in the Hood River Valley. Bake pears
into a pie or chop them into a savory salad.
salmon river [pg. 76]
Bring a rain jacket and explore the riverbed or
the junction of fresh and sea waters near the
border of Lincoln and Tillamook counties. You
may even spot one of the famed 25-pounder
Chinook making their journey back upstream.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
Coffee Roasters page 24
Ristretto, Portland
Noble, Ashland
Sleepy Monk, Cannon Beach
Motley Brew, Joseph
Full City, Eugene
Mellelo, Medford
Good Bean, Jacksonville
11R, Bend
146 1859 oregon's mAgAzine SPRING 2012