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Scheria, Koryfo, Corfu.<br />
Three names, three different aspects of the single,<br />
incessant course of Corfu over the centuries.<br />
Corfu of the myths, the Venetian Renaissance,<br />
the British greatness, the emerald olive groves, the blue seas.<br />
Corfu of the tourist tide, Corfu of modern Greece and modern Europe,<br />
benevolent fate, always in the forefront of history.<br />
This album “Corfu Panorama”<br />
(Corfu, Paxoi, Antipaxos, Mathraki, Othoni, Ereikoussa)<br />
a collective effort and diligence of Chris Antipas<br />
aims at highlighting the profile of the island of Corfu,<br />
as it was shaped over the centuries.<br />
The incomparable beauty of the landscape of Corfu,<br />
its glorious past and its diverse present of the island<br />
compose the uniqueness of Corfu.<br />
Our ambition is that the reading of this album will motivate you<br />
to visit the island and experience all these<br />
excitements that it can so generously offer you.
Map: Kostas Papageorgiou - Nikos Gazetas
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QUEEN OF<br />
THE IONIAN SEA<br />
Lagoons, lakes, waterfalls,<br />
rivers, forests, mountains,<br />
islets. And whatever nature<br />
“didn’t have time to do” is<br />
complemented by human<br />
architecture.<br />
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Corfu<br />
Paxoi<br />
Antipaxos<br />
Mathraki<br />
Othoni<br />
Ereikoussa<br />
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HISTORICAL OVERVIEW<br />
Although Corfu was a “Bone<br />
of contention”, barbarians or<br />
civilized conquerors could not<br />
alter the Greek identity of the<br />
Corfiots.<br />
MONUMENTS and FORTS<br />
Ancient temples, castles,<br />
towers, moat, Roman baths,<br />
cave with Paleolithic finings,<br />
Byzantine buildings and<br />
churches adorn the island<br />
of Phaeakes.<br />
BLAZONS<br />
The great spiritual, artistic,<br />
business and other celebrities<br />
seal with their blazons their<br />
passage from Corfu.<br />
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OLD PHOTOS<br />
History is not only written by<br />
historians. It is also written<br />
by photographers.<br />
And photographers have a lot<br />
to “tell” us about the island.<br />
MUSEUMS<br />
Painters, sculptors, craftsmen<br />
of ceramics, engravers and all<br />
kinds of artists have been<br />
working for centuries and<br />
nowadays their work is<br />
exhibited.<br />
CHURCHES and<br />
MONASTERIES<br />
The Corfiots built at their own<br />
expense and personal work<br />
churches with excellent<br />
decoration and artistic bell<br />
towers.<br />
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CULTURAL EVENTS<br />
The happy and extroverted<br />
character of the Corfiots has<br />
shaped the way they celebrate.<br />
Solemn at the religious events,<br />
and open to the feast.<br />
PAINTING - SCULPTURE -<br />
ENGRAVING<br />
Cultures and artists made an<br />
“appointment in Corfu” and<br />
created new trends influenced<br />
by the Western way of thinking.<br />
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396<br />
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STATUES<br />
Many worthy sons, and<br />
many foreigners who loved<br />
and created works of art<br />
on the island.<br />
Today we can get to know<br />
them by their statues.<br />
OLD TOWN<br />
Here the past meets the<br />
present. The story “speaks”<br />
in every corner, every<br />
square, every street.<br />
And reminds you the soul<br />
of the Corfiots.<br />
ACHILLEIO<br />
The palace that concealed<br />
the pain of Sissy,<br />
the empress of Austria and<br />
was later “sealed” and by<br />
Kaiser Wilhelm II.
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NORTH-EAST <strong>CORFU</strong><br />
The Kapodistrias Museum,<br />
the Venetian shipyards,<br />
the Gallery, the Roman castle,<br />
the old mansions:<br />
are only a small part of what<br />
you can see here.<br />
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NORTH-WEST <strong>CORFU</strong><br />
The “Canal of love”, the sunset<br />
of Ai-Giorgi, the “Fortress of<br />
Angels”, Paleokastritsa, the<br />
place where Nausicaa found<br />
Odysseus.<br />
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SOUTH-WEST <strong>CORFU</strong><br />
The throne of Kaiser, the bell<br />
tower made of chipped stone,<br />
the “pasaentza” joining the attached<br />
houses, the embrasures,<br />
the ruined monastery.<br />
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SOUTH-EAST <strong>CORFU</strong><br />
The river resembling Central<br />
Europe, the passage of the<br />
Emperor, the olive aged over<br />
2,500 years, the birthplace of<br />
Kapodistrias, the Sea Museum.<br />
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PAXOI and ANTIPAXOS<br />
Small islands of great beauty.<br />
Love nest of Poseidon and<br />
Amphitrite, the hidden beaches<br />
of the Ionian Sea expanded in<br />
a few square meters.<br />
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DIAPONTIAN ISLANDS<br />
The “guards of Greece”, the<br />
western edge of Corfu with<br />
the beauty, the greenery and<br />
tranquility proving that...<br />
paradise still exists.<br />
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BUILDINGS - “LANDMARKS”<br />
The houses not only satisfy the<br />
need for housing, but they also<br />
satisfy the need of the architect<br />
for creation.<br />
That’s why masterpieces<br />
were made.<br />
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COLORS and<br />
FRAGRANCES<br />
Flowers “speak” in Corfu.<br />
With their colors, smells,<br />
combinations of shades and<br />
they are everywhere.<br />
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AMUSEMENT and SPORTS<br />
Sports at the sea, the seabed,<br />
the mountain and... in the air.<br />
In Corfu you will find sports<br />
that are unknown to the rest of<br />
Greece.<br />
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TASTES... of <strong>CORFU</strong><br />
Painters and sculptors are<br />
not the only artists.<br />
Cooks are too.<br />
And their “works of art”go<br />
down in history and<br />
become traditional recipes.<br />
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SUNSETS<br />
The sun not only gives life.<br />
It also gives beauty.<br />
And the sunset in Corfu<br />
is beautiful because it is<br />
different every single day.
Lagoons<br />
The Eurasian otter is a small animal which lives on the banks<br />
of rivers and lakes, in clear water. It is one of the rarest and<br />
most endangered mammals.<br />
It is an indication that the water is clear and it is protected<br />
in all countries where it lives. Fishes, amphibians, reptiles,<br />
invertebrates, birds and small mammals are its food.<br />
In Corfu you can find the famous flamingos, too. There are<br />
more than 500 of them with white, black and pink colours<br />
on their feathers, known as flamingos, and they make every<br />
lagoon special.<br />
They love tranquility, so if someone wants to see them, they<br />
have to be absolutely quiet. Flamingos stay in the shallow<br />
waters of lagoons for about four months.<br />
Korission Lagoon<br />
The Korission Lagoon is the largest lagoon and the most<br />
important wetland of the island. It is located in the southern<br />
part of the island, near Argyrades. A narrow strip of earth<br />
separates it from the Ionian Sea and creates two separate<br />
sand beaches, Halikounas and Issos.<br />
This place is protected by the Natura Treaty and it covers an<br />
area of 6.000 acres and, apart from the Lake of Korission, it<br />
also includes the coast, the forest of Cedars and a large<br />
number of dunes.<br />
This place attracts 126 kinds of birds, such us cormorant,<br />
widgeons, egrets, flamingos, ducks and thousands of<br />
butterflies, too.<br />
The lagoon is a very important place not only ecologically,<br />
but also archeologically.<br />
A mandible of a hippopotamus and small pieces of bones<br />
were found here, as well as a stone artifact in Paliavlakos<br />
where the lagoon and the sea meet.<br />
Alykes Lagoon<br />
The Alykes Lagoon has been known since the 16th century<br />
and it was named after the Alykes (salines) which existed<br />
there until 1988.<br />
It is a peninsula of about 200 acres.<br />
Thousands of flamingos come to the ecosystem of Alykes<br />
twice a year, every spring and autumn, to rest before their<br />
Apart from the ecological interest, the Korission Lagoon has an a<br />
22
chaeological interest too.<br />
<strong>CORFU</strong> <strong>PANORAMA</strong> 23
The name of the Island<br />
Drepanon, Makris, Scheria, Kassopaia, Argos or Keravna are<br />
just some of the names of Corfu in the distant past.<br />
Drepanon, named after its long, sickle-like shape or after<br />
«drepani», the weapon with which Saturn killed his father,<br />
Ouranos.<br />
The name Scheria, according to mythology, comes from the<br />
goddess Demeter. The goddess begged Neptune to stop the<br />
inundations of the river which was located on the opposite<br />
shore and threatened to turn the island into mudflats.<br />
The name Kerkyra (Corfu) derives also from the Greek<br />
mythology. The beauty of the nymph kerkyra or Korkyras in<br />
Doric, the daughter of the river Asopos, dazzled Neptune,<br />
who kidnapped her and took her to the island. Phaeakas<br />
was the fruit of their union, founder of the Phaeakes. In the<br />
Odyssey, Homer mentions the island of Phaeakes -which was<br />
believed it was Corfu- as the last station of Odysseus before<br />
Ithaca.<br />
During the Byzantine period the island was called Koryfo<br />
(peak), named after its two-peaked acropolis, that’s how the<br />
Latin name Corfu was born, by which Kerkyra is internationally<br />
known.<br />
The mythology handed over to the modern Corfiots and the<br />
emblem of the city. The “Apidalos Naphs” (a ship without<br />
steering oars) is still the symbol of the maritime craftsmanship<br />
of the Phaeakes.<br />
Roman period<br />
(229 BC - 337 AD)<br />
In 229 BC, Corfu is forced to seek the protection of the Roman<br />
Empire. Rome grants full autonomy and privileges to the<br />
locals, in exchange for the use of the Corfiots’ ships and the<br />
harbors of the island as a station between Italy and the<br />
Eastern Mediterranean Sea. The period of this peaceful<br />
coexistence with the Romans lasted for approximately five<br />
centuries. During this period, Corfu embraces Christianity.<br />
During the Roman occupation, several major personalities<br />
visit Corfu, such as including Cicero, Plinius, Suetonius, and<br />
several emperors, such as Vespasian, Antoninus Pius,<br />
Septimius Severus and Nero.<br />
52
A gravure of the Old Fortress and the Acropolis - Honri Lemen (1699)<br />
<strong>CORFU</strong> <strong>PANORAMA</strong> 53
Old Fortress<br />
The Old Fortress (Fortezza or Agios Nikolaos Fortress) is<br />
built on a rocky peninsula with two characteristic peaks on<br />
the eastern edge of the city, from which it is separated by an<br />
artificial moat (contra-fossa). This particular location is ideal<br />
as a defensive option, since it allows easy access to maritime<br />
space and full control over the neighboring coasts.<br />
History<br />
The site was fortified for the first time after the 6 th century<br />
when it obtained its first inhabitants, probably survivors<br />
of previous disasters. The fortification of the fortress lasted<br />
about fifteen centuries.<br />
During this period, three historical phases stand out:<br />
The Byzantine period, during which the eastern hill (Castello<br />
Vecchio) was fortified, the early Venetian period, when the<br />
peninsula was turned into an island and the western hill<br />
(Castello Nuovo) was fortified, and the Late Venetian period,<br />
when the fortifications were completed and received their<br />
present form.<br />
During the 16 th century, the Venetians strengthened the<br />
fortifications and the subsequent construction of moats<br />
around the fort. They grinded the surface of the rocks to<br />
prevent possible attempts of climbing by enemies.<br />
During this phase, the buildings in front of the fort were<br />
demolished and the imposing square of “Spianada” was built.<br />
Till the 17 th century, the gradual restoration of the city inside<br />
the fortress with the district (borgo) was completed, which<br />
evolved into the newer and encircled by the wall city of<br />
Corfu.<br />
Structural, Architectural, Fortification elements<br />
Over the centuries, the fortress underwent several transformations,<br />
so little remained in its original form.<br />
The statue in honor of Marshal Schulenburg (made by the<br />
Venetians because the Constable helped the Corfiots to<br />
repulse the Turks) has now been transferred in front of the<br />
arched entrance of the fortress.<br />
From there, through a gallery, a corridor leads to the center<br />
of the acropolis.<br />
Another corridor, on the left, leads to the northern rampart<br />
of the fort.<br />
There are various buildings in the interior of<br />
the fort, including a jail constructed in 1786<br />
by the Venetians, the military chapel, two<br />
barracks constructed by the British around<br />
1850 and a military hospital which is now a<br />
music school.<br />
The church of Agios Georgios is a project of<br />
the British in 1840, which 20 years later was<br />
converted into a Catholic Church and was<br />
decorated with icons from the church of St.<br />
Spyridon.<br />
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<strong>CORFU</strong> <strong>PANORAMA</strong> 95
104<br />
OLD PHOTOS<br />
Corfu doesn’t enchant only the visitor.<br />
It also enchants the camera lens.<br />
Not only with its landscapes and monuments.<br />
The daily life of the Corfiots in earlier times<br />
is also one of the features captured by<br />
the fans of the island.<br />
Their professional activities,<br />
habits and customs were recorded<br />
in old black and white photos.
1903 - Georgios Theotokis Square (“Sarocco”).<br />
<strong>CORFU</strong> <strong>PANORAMA</strong> 105
Archaeological Museum<br />
The Archaeological Museum of Corfu hosts the findings<br />
from various periods excavated occasionally on the island,<br />
some of which are of great archeological and artistic value.<br />
The building of the Archaeological Museum was built in the<br />
1960s. It is spread over two floors with a courtyard on the<br />
ground floor and a balcony on the south and east side of the<br />
first floor.<br />
The most representative and impressive exhibit of the<br />
museum is the Gorgon Pediment. It is estimated that it was<br />
built in 585 BC and adorned the western side of the great<br />
Doric temple of Artemis and it is considered to be the oldest<br />
preserved stone pediment.<br />
The pediment extends in an entire room of the museum and<br />
depicts the Gorgon, which according to mythology, anyone<br />
who looked at her turned into stone. Her face is frightening<br />
with monstrous features, while snakes are tied on the locks<br />
of her hair and her waist. On her left and right stand her two<br />
children, Chrysaor and Pegasus.<br />
The representation is accompanied by two mythical animals,<br />
the lion-panthers, symbols of the forces of nature, with a<br />
lion’s head and a panther’s body. On the two corners of the<br />
pediment, scenes from the War of Titans complement the<br />
composition.<br />
According to reports, the pediment was brightly colored.<br />
In another room of the museum is exhibited the left part of a<br />
limestone pediment from the area of Figaretto.<br />
of Dionysus and a teenager lying in bed.<br />
There is a table in front of them and a resting lion under it.<br />
The Lion of Menecrates is another impressive exhibit created<br />
in the 7 th century BC. It is believed that the lion was placed<br />
on the top of the monument of Menecrates.<br />
Many important burial artifacts are from the ancient cemetery<br />
of Garitsa and the area of Mon Repo, where the temples of<br />
Hera and Apollo are located.<br />
The ruins of ancient Corfu, Chersoupoli, might have been<br />
there. As a confirmation of the economic prosperity of the<br />
island, we can admire the silver currency of Corfu, with the<br />
illustration of a cow suckling her baby.<br />
We can also observe copper laminas of the 6 th and 5 th cenWe<br />
We can also observe copper laminas of the 6 th and 5 th<br />
century BC, as well as bronze statuettes of women and<br />
the goddess Venus.<br />
The interesting collection of the Museum includes<br />
valuable jewels.<br />
One can also observe some of the terracotta statuettes<br />
of Artemis, which were found in large quantities in the<br />
small temple of Artemis at Kanoni in Corfu city.<br />
There is also a coin exhibit and several busts and<br />
funerary steles.<br />
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Limestone pediment with a representation of a Dionysian symposium. God Dionysos and a teenager.<br />
<strong>CORFU</strong> <strong>PANORAMA</strong> 153
The Architecture of Temples<br />
Discovering Corfu, we are impressed by the many churches,<br />
about 800, which are found both in the city and in the<br />
countryside of Corfu.<br />
A possible explanation of the large number of churches is,<br />
on the one hand, the freedom of religious beliefs established<br />
by the Venetians and, on the other hand, the fact that most<br />
of them belonged to guilds of professionals or wealthy<br />
families able to afford the expenses of their construction and<br />
maintenance.<br />
Τhe first temples of Corfu were not parish, as we know them<br />
today, but corporate. In other words, people of the same<br />
occupation undertook the construction and maintenance<br />
of a temple.<br />
The vast majority of the churches on the island were built<br />
during the mid-16 th century until the early 18 th century.<br />
The oldest church of the city, the Byzantine church of<br />
Saints Jason and Sosipatros, was built in the 11 th century.<br />
The architectural style that prevails in the churches of the<br />
city is the Basilica with the wooden roof and one or, more<br />
rarely, three aisles (narthexes). Their belfries are usually<br />
towering with Venetian elements. There are also simpler<br />
constructions with perforated walls closing up and with bells<br />
hanging from their openings.<br />
The interior of the temples consists of three areas.<br />
The sanctuary, separated from the nave with a wooden<br />
iconostasis, the main temple with the flat roof, the “Ourania”,<br />
adorned with hagiographies in embossed golden Baroque<br />
frames, and the balcony.<br />
The impressive compositions in most “Ouranies” in the<br />
temples of Corfu are inspired by the Venetian art and are<br />
characteristic specimens of the Ionian iconography.<br />
The interior of the church is often covered with purple or<br />
blue upholstery and adorned with portable hanging icons.<br />
The icons in the churches of Corfu belong to the post-<br />
Byzantine period and are mainly works of Cretan painters,<br />
Michael Damaskinos, Emmanuel Tzane, Konstantinos<br />
Kontarinis and of local artists using the same style.<br />
A church’s window of Byzantine style.<br />
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The “Ourania” with the famous oil paintings in Saint Spyridon.<br />
<strong>CORFU</strong> <strong>PANORAMA</strong> 189
Easter<br />
Good Friday<br />
One of the most picturesque Epitaphs on the island is the<br />
Epitaph of Saint George, the church inside the Old Fortress.<br />
When all the Epitaphs have come out from the temples, little<br />
girls hand out flowers to the people. The official procession<br />
is done by the Epitaph of the Metropolis, where all the<br />
Philharmonic bands of the island take part in.<br />
The procession of the Epitaph of Saint Spyridon with the<br />
sacred relics of the Saint takes place in the morning of the<br />
Holy Saturday. This peculiar custom derives from the period<br />
of the Venetian occupation, when the procession of the<br />
Epitaph was forbidden in the evening of Good Friday.<br />
Holy Saturday<br />
The breaking of pitchers is one of the most characteristic<br />
Corfiot customs. In the morning of Holy Saturday, the time of<br />
the first Resurrection and when the phrase “Anasta o Theos”<br />
(The Christ has risen) is heard in the churches, the Corfiots<br />
throw from their balconies pitchers full of water. It is believed<br />
that the evil spirits are scared of the din of the pitchers and<br />
won’t come close to the houses of the island.<br />
The bands are playing the cheery anthem “Don’t be afraid<br />
Grecians” in the streets and the cheerleaders are following<br />
them dancing. From this sound composition derives the phrase<br />
“Egine Anasta o Kyrios” (A mess of chaos and celebrations).<br />
The custom of “Mastelos” revives on Holy Saturday. In the<br />
old days, the porters of Corfu, the “Piniadori” placed a mastelo<br />
(long barrel) in a central part of the city adorned with myrtles<br />
and filled with water. Afterwards, they were asking passers-by<br />
to throw coins in the barrel making a wish and when they<br />
had gathered enough coins, they chased someone and<br />
threw him into the barrel, who had the privilege to collect<br />
the money.<br />
On the same night, at the Resurrection in Ano Platia,<br />
the Metropolitan of Corfu and the other official persons<br />
stand on the podium of the musical pavilion and chant Easter<br />
Hymns and the Philharmonic bands are playing marches.<br />
On every house’s window lit candles are placed and along<br />
with the candles of the worshippers the whole city is enlightened<br />
causing awe and solemnity.<br />
The pitchers are thrown on Holy Saturday to scare the<br />
246
evil spirits. The “Anasta o Kyrios” has a double meaning here.<br />
<strong>CORFU</strong> <strong>PANORAMA</strong> 247
Painting - Sculpture -Engraving<br />
The Heptanese School is the first Greek artistic movement<br />
with clear Western European influences, which appeared in<br />
the Ionian Islands in the mid-17 th century.<br />
The Ionian Islands from the 17 th to the 19 th century were<br />
under the Venetian, French and <strong>English</strong> occupation.<br />
The relative freedom the residents enjoyed, their economic<br />
well-being and their cultural relations with the nearby Italy<br />
resulted in the creation of the Ionian Islands as the place<br />
where the Greek painting left the Byzantine tradition and<br />
turned towards the West.<br />
The creation of the Heptanese School contributed in the<br />
relocation of many Cretan painters in the Ionian Islands<br />
when Crete passed from the Venetian rule to the Ottoman.<br />
Among the major painters of the so called Cretan-Zante<br />
Academy of the 16 th and 17 th century are Michael Damaskinos,<br />
Dimitris and George Moschos, Manolis and Konstantinos<br />
Tzanes and Stefanos Tsagkarolos.<br />
The shift toward the Western art was manifested in the end<br />
of the 17 th century, with the abandonment of traditional<br />
Byzantine forms.<br />
The paintings, influenced mainly by the Italian Baroque and<br />
the Flemish painting, began to acquire depth, i.e. giving the<br />
sense of the third dimension of space, to become more<br />
natural and acquire increasingly more cosmic themes.<br />
In addition, the Ionians painters, instead of egg, they began<br />
using oil as a color binder, and instead of a plank they began<br />
using a canvas.<br />
The first samples of the Western-style Heptanese School<br />
appeared on the decorations of the ceilings of churches,<br />
known as “Ouranies” or “sofita”.<br />
The pioneer of this change was Panagiotis Doxaras<br />
(1662-1723). He encouraged a naturalistic representation<br />
of figures, and introduced bold innovations marking the<br />
departure from the forms and values of Byzantine art.<br />
The main painters<br />
Emmanuel Tzanes “Mpounialis” (1610-1690) was a Greek<br />
painter of the Renaissance. His works are displayed at the<br />
church of St Jason and Sosipatros, in Panagia of Xenon, the<br />
Byzantine Museum, etc.<br />
The litany of Saint Spyridon in<br />
Esplanade (Spianada) in Corfu.<br />
Gravure (1821)<br />
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<strong>CORFU</strong> <strong>PANORAMA</strong> 259
The Union on the 21 st of May 1864<br />
<strong>CORFU</strong>: The “Apidalos Nafs” (a ship without paddles)<br />
is still the symbol of the naval virtuosity of the Phaeakes.<br />
With such capable sailors, the ship did not need a paddle.<br />
PAXI: The Trident of Poseidon is the symbol of Paxi,<br />
which were formed when Poseidon threw it at Corfu<br />
and a part of the island was detached.<br />
LEFKADA: Pegasus, the horse of Greek mythology,<br />
with the warrior, a remnant of the Corinthian disembark<br />
on the island, is its symbol.
KEFALLINIA: Cephalous, who arrived at the island<br />
as a refugee from Athens or from the Greek tribe<br />
of Kefallinon or Kefallanon, is its symbol.<br />
ITHACA: The first resident of the island was Ithacos,<br />
a descendant of Zeus, who came from Corfu<br />
and gave his name to the island and became its emblem.<br />
ZAKYNTHOS: According to mythology, Zakynthos<br />
was born in Phrygia and was the first resident of the island,<br />
saved it from the snakes and became its emblem.<br />
KYTHIRA: Aphrodite was born here and she travelled<br />
to Cyprus on a shell, where she emerged from the sea.<br />
This picture is the emblem of Tsirigo.
Old Town<br />
Nature has been generous to Corfu and gave her her infinite<br />
beauty. But people also respected these gifts and their<br />
creations were adapted to a perfect degree with these<br />
beauties.<br />
A simple stroll in the area persuades even the most<br />
demanding visitor that Nature and tradition are “blended”<br />
perfectly here.<br />
Campiello<br />
Campiello is the oldest settlement in Corfu. It was created<br />
during the Anjou rule in about 1267-1386, when the<br />
overpopulation of the city and the pressures of the Catholics<br />
forced many residents to spread out and around the city.<br />
And, therefore, Xopoli was created - today’s Old Town.<br />
The first Sephardim Jews arrived during that period, who<br />
were expelled from Spain and settled in Corfu, in Ovriovouni.<br />
The typical image of the square is composed by the church,<br />
the mansions, upscale residences and sometimes the well,<br />
which is actually the mouth of a cistern.<br />
In the background it can be discerned the famous “Arch of<br />
Kokkinis”, a picturesque arched passage, the “Kantouni of<br />
Bizis” (alley) etc.<br />
Campiello is of global interest and is enlisted in the World<br />
Heritage Sites of Unesco. The narrow alleys, kantounia,<br />
usually end up in unanticipated small squares after which<br />
the region is named. (Campiello in Italian means small<br />
square). Clotheslines with spread out laundries are hanging<br />
from facing balconies, which are separated by such short<br />
distance that the neighbors could easily exchange handshakes<br />
from their... porch!<br />
The mansions (and not only them) are famous for their<br />
architecture. Μetzalounes (arches) create very beautiful<br />
shapes above the doors. Batidoura (the knockers on the<br />
door for the visitor) on the front doors have special, strange<br />
shapes.<br />
“Piteria” (pots) add colors. Tsantsaminia (Jasmines) in<br />
kantounia are flooding the area with their scent.<br />
The narrow and shadowy kanizeles (the alleys) and the<br />
rambling, also narrow streets complement the breathtaking<br />
image of the Old Town.<br />
Esplanade (Spianada), the Moat and the Old Fort.<br />
294
Ο πεζόδρομος στα Μουράγια και στο βάθος τα Ανάκτορα.<br />
<strong>CORFU</strong> <strong>PANORAMA</strong> 295
Town Hall<br />
A typical example of the Venetian architecture in Corfu, the<br />
Town Hall located at the Town Hall square, the social center<br />
during the Venetian era.<br />
The building, the formerly famous Arcade of the Nobles<br />
was built in stages between 1661 and 1693, to be used as<br />
a club of the Venetian fleet officers and a lounge arcade<br />
(Loggia) of the city’s nobility.<br />
In 1717, the building was converted into a theater and was<br />
named “San Giacomo Theatre” after the name of the<br />
Catholic Church at the same square. The church of St. James<br />
was built in 1632 and operated as the Catholic metropolis.<br />
The “San Giacomo Theatre” was one of the first European<br />
theaters where opera performances were staged, it was<br />
closely linked with the principles of the Ionian and Greek<br />
theater and created the theatrical reputation of Corfu.<br />
Since 1733 several melodrama performances were staged.<br />
The Corfiots loved the theater so much that, according to<br />
tradition, they did not only watch sole performances but also<br />
the rehearsals of the theatrical companies. When in 1903 a<br />
new theater was built in Corfu, the building was converted<br />
into the Town Hall, by adding a floor.<br />
The building, of Renaissance style, is made of carved stone<br />
Sinion by an unknown architect. Its exterior was decorated<br />
with arches and baroque sculptures.<br />
At its east side is the bust of Francesco Morosini with four<br />
children (who symbolize his virtues).<br />
The curtain of the theater which was an excellent artwork<br />
was crafted by Giovanni Bouzato, director of the Academy<br />
of Fine Arts of Venice or, according to others, by Napoleon<br />
Gkenovezi.<br />
It was adorned by representations from the Odyssey and<br />
Ulysses on the island of the Phaeakes, namely Corfu.<br />
The curtain was saved from the destruction of the theater in<br />
1943 and today has been transferred at the new Municipal<br />
Theatre of Corfu, like Portantina, a gilded carriage with velvet<br />
seat, which was the transportation mean of the prima donna<br />
of each performance from the hotel to the theater.<br />
The once “Arcade of the Nobles” which served as a theater, and<br />
334
today is the Town Hall.<br />
<strong>CORFU</strong> <strong>PANORAMA</strong> 335
Old Fortress<br />
One of the most impressive fortifications of the European<br />
area, the Old Fortress, is the most striking feature of the city<br />
that dominates as a towering rocky two-peaked end.<br />
The geographical position of Corfu frequently made it a<br />
target for raiders, which enforced its fortification. Around<br />
550 AD the Corfiots, abandoning Chersoupolis, later known<br />
as Paleopolis, fled in a small, safe peninsula in front of the<br />
present city and built the Fortress.<br />
Due to the two peaks of the rocks, the city was named<br />
“Korifo”, a name which has been preserved nowadays in<br />
many foreign languages (Corfu, Corfou).<br />
The fortification of the Fortress was completed consecutively<br />
by the Byzantines, the Despots of Epirus and the Anjou, the<br />
Venetians, however, were those who formed it focusing on<br />
the separation of the small peninsula of the Old Fortress<br />
from the rest of the island with the opening of the trench.<br />
Moreover, they expanded the free space in front of the fort,<br />
the Esplanade.<br />
The works were completed in 1568, giving the fortress its<br />
final shape and the equipment that made it impregnable.<br />
After the fall of the Most Serene Republic of Venice in 1717,<br />
the Old Fort served as a military center of the existing<br />
administration.<br />
The <strong>English</strong> conquerors made several modifications by<br />
building the stone building of the Infantry Barracks, the<br />
military hospital in the Acropolis and the Church of Saint<br />
George, which operated at first as an Anglican church.<br />
When the Union of Corfu with the rest of Greece was decided,<br />
the major European powers demanded the demolition of the<br />
fortifications on the islet Vido, the city walls and parts of the<br />
New Fortress.<br />
The dynamic intervention of the Corfiots saved the Old Fortress,<br />
which in 1943 protected Corfu from the German bombings.<br />
The structure of the Old Fortress<br />
The walls of the Fortress have three different levels: the<br />
highest level includes the two rocks and the space between<br />
them. The middle encloses the largest part of the fortress.<br />
The lower, which was built later, surrounds only the<br />
Kaposidero Cape.<br />
344
Utilitarian spaces for the needs of life in the Old Fortress.<br />
<strong>CORFU</strong> <strong>PANORAMA</strong> 345
New Fortress<br />
The New Fortress, the «Fort of Saint Markus» is located in<br />
the northwest edge of the city and was built by the<br />
Venetians in 1576, shortly after the second Turkish siege.<br />
The growing population and the continuous expansion of<br />
Corfu combined with the territorial claims of the enemies<br />
enforced the new fortifications.<br />
In the defense strategy there should be counted and the<br />
surroundings, as the city expanded to the west. The second<br />
siege in 1537 by the Turks left no room for postponements.<br />
In 1576, the Venetians sent to Corfu the architect Francis Viteli<br />
in order to oversee the fortifications.<br />
They started the construction of the new fortress on the hill<br />
of Agios Markos which expanded to the south with walls<br />
and bastions reaching till the sea at Garitsa. Corfu is now<br />
surrounded all by walls, and, therefore, was named by the<br />
locals Kastropoli.<br />
For the construction of the New Fortress, completed in<br />
1645, and the extension of the city walls it was necessary to<br />
demolish about 2,500 houses and several old churches.<br />
Viteli ordered the fortification of the hill of Agios Markus with<br />
another fortress to protect the surrounding area.<br />
The New Fortress was smaller than the Old and extended on<br />
two levels. The walls of the New Fortress were surrounded by<br />
dry moat and ramparts were built to strengthen the defense<br />
of the city.<br />
On the east side of the low level that protected the port,<br />
there was a small bastion which connected the fortress<br />
with the city walls from where the part of the fortress called<br />
Punta Perpetua. Inside the bastion there is a maze of arched<br />
chambers, galleries, ventilation shafts, stairs and ramps.<br />
Just above that is the bastion “Kalogeros” and the fortifications<br />
of «Korakofolia». The bastion of “Skarponas” strengthen the<br />
defense of the second level and is the point at which the<br />
most ferocious battles with the Turks took place during the<br />
siege of 1716.<br />
Between Skarponas and Sarantaris bastion was Porta Stopa<br />
al Tenedos at which ended the burrow of the People’s Market<br />
which was used by the commander of the Fortress, in case of<br />
emergency, to communicate with the external defense.<br />
The “Fortress of Saint Mark” enlightened.<br />
358
<strong>CORFU</strong> <strong>PANORAMA</strong> 359
Old Palaces of<br />
Saints Michael and George<br />
It is located on the north side of the Esplanade square and<br />
one of the most impressive sights of Corfu. The building was<br />
designed by the <strong>English</strong> Engineer Colonel George Whitemore<br />
and built during 1819-1823, during the administration of the<br />
<strong>English</strong> Commissioner, Thomas Maitland.<br />
The palace originally housed the Ionian Senate, while it was<br />
used as a residence by the Maitland himself. Then it hosted<br />
the Order of Saint Michael and Saint George, founded in<br />
1818 and was named after the saints. For nearly fifty years<br />
(1864-1913) it was used by the Greek royal family as<br />
ceremonies and banquet halls, and is nowadays housing<br />
the Asian Art Museum and the Municipal Gallery with<br />
numerous exhibits.<br />
The main gate was named St. George’s gate and the other<br />
Saint Michael’s Gate. Both are located on the square.<br />
The names of the saints were engraved above these gates.<br />
On the pediment of the palace are carved the coats of arms<br />
of the seven islands. In the middle is the <strong>English</strong> coat of arms.<br />
It is undoubtedly the most important monument of the<br />
British rule and one of the first neoclassical buildings in<br />
Greece. It is grand and elegant, despite its size.<br />
It is the second largest palace in Greece after the palace of<br />
King Otto in Athens (that is today’s Parliament).<br />
They are made of Maltese stone and its facade is adorned by<br />
a Doric peristyle.<br />
The upper part of the Palace is decorated with allegorical<br />
representations of the Ionian Islands, works of the Corfiot<br />
sculptor Paul Prosalentis.<br />
There we can see Corfu represented by an ancient ship<br />
symbol, “Apidalon Nafn” (a ship without paddles).<br />
Even more impressive is the interior of the Palace with<br />
luxurious ballrooms, banquet and catering rooms, decorated<br />
with marble fireplaces, chandeliers and illustrations of the<br />
honorary decorations of Saint Michael and Saint George.<br />
In June 1994, the renovated Palace hosted some of the<br />
events of the Summit Meeting of the European Union.<br />
The Old Palaces of Saints Michael and George,<br />
which were built by Thomas Maitland,<br />
are the most important monument of the British rule.<br />
366
<strong>CORFU</strong> <strong>PANORAMA</strong> 367
Liston<br />
The impressive complex of buildings on the west side of<br />
Esplanade, Liston, was built between 1807 and 1814 by the<br />
French Imperials and its buildings were townhouses.<br />
It covers approximately two city blocks and is the work of the<br />
French engineer Mathieu de Lesseps (father of the famous<br />
Ferdinand Lesseps, leader of the Suez Canal), who built the<br />
buildings on Rivoli Street in Paris, in the same architectural<br />
style that prevailed during the Napoleonic period.<br />
In the design and the construction of the building also<br />
participated the Greek engineer Ioannis Parmezan.<br />
The original aim of the French were buildings like Liston,<br />
with arches (volta, as they are called in Corfu) and<br />
characteristic Venetian lanterns, to get to the point where<br />
the Ionian Academy is nowadays.<br />
But they did not manage to fulfil their plans, since the island<br />
was occupied by the British.<br />
Originally the building had a ground floor and one floor was<br />
used as a barracks by the French. Downstairs were the<br />
residences of soldiers and on the first floor the officers’.<br />
Later, the remaining floors and its largest part was turned<br />
into luxury hotels, such as “Bella Venezia”. In their rooms<br />
there were hosted illustrious figures such as Constantine<br />
Cavafy and Dionysus Solomos.<br />
According to an old misconception, the name “Liston” came<br />
from the word “list”, since in the gallery of the buildings and<br />
the front walkway could only walk those who were written in<br />
the “Golden Bible lists of the Nobles”.<br />
And, therefore, “Liston (plural of “list” in Greek)” was considered<br />
correct orthographically. We now know that the Venetians<br />
called “Liston” the paved pedestrian street destined for urban<br />
promenade (named after Listoni which are oblong stone or<br />
marble slabs).<br />
In Liston everyone could then, as now, go for a walk.<br />
Today, under the arches, we find cafes, restaurants and<br />
outstretched tables up to the shadow of the trees in the<br />
square.<br />
Light... and color give the lanterns at Liston.<br />
376
<strong>CORFU</strong> <strong>PANORAMA</strong> 377
Paleopolis<br />
Basilica of Paleopolis<br />
In the area of Paleopolis we come across the Basilica of<br />
Paleopolis, an important early Christian monument.<br />
Situated opposite Mon Repo, where the ancient city center<br />
was located. It was built in the 5 th AD century and it was one<br />
of the largest basilicas of that period, five-aisled, with two<br />
narthexes, adorned with many sculptures and mosaics.<br />
The church was dedicated to Santa Kerkyra. The Basilica of<br />
Paleopolis was destroyed during the raids of the 6 th century<br />
and in its place was built a smaller three-aisled, which was<br />
also destroyed in the 11 th century. In 1537, the church was<br />
rebuilt and destroyed by the bombings of WW II.<br />
Today the church is ruined, without its roof.<br />
The estate of Mon Repo (Mon Repo means “my rest”), in<br />
Paleopolis, is the largest green lung of the city with a total<br />
extent of 240,000 m2. Within the limits of the estate were<br />
discovered the ruins of the ancient temples of Hera and<br />
Apollo.<br />
Mon Repo<br />
Mon Repo was built in 1828-31 as a holiday house of the<br />
commissioner Lord Fred Adam. It is also a work of Whitemore.<br />
It is a building with simple forms, large windows and a<br />
typical application of the morphological characteristics of<br />
the <strong>English</strong> classical tradition with the addition of Greek<br />
elements.<br />
After the Union, it was granted by the City to King George I,<br />
who named it Mon Repo. It was granted back to the property<br />
of the Municipality of Corfu, that granted for fifty years the<br />
building of the villa to the Ministry of Culture to house the<br />
museum of Paleopolis.<br />
Panagia Vlacherna - Pontikonisi<br />
The monastery of Panagia Vlacherna housed nuns until 1980.<br />
It is located on the islet of Vlacherna linked to Corfu with a<br />
narrow corridor.<br />
Pontikonisi is called the “ship of Ulysses”. The legend says<br />
that when the king of Ithaca arrived here, Neptune turned<br />
the ship in a green rock.<br />
384
The British Commissioner Fred Adam built Mon Repo as a holiday house.<br />
<strong>CORFU</strong> <strong>PANORAMA</strong> 385
Achilleio<br />
Perfectly integrated in the surroundings, Achilleio is situated<br />
just outside Gastouri, one of the most picturesque villages of<br />
the island. Built on a hill, in neoclassical style, surrounded by<br />
beautiful gardens full of cypresses, olives, geraniums,<br />
bougainvillea. The view from its balconies is magnificent.<br />
The palace<br />
A strange sense of awe overwhelms anyone that gazes over<br />
the imposing form of the Palace. The stunning appearance<br />
of this stately palace takes the visitor back in history.<br />
The main entrance, the facade of the palace, is located to<br />
the east and formed by a prominent Doric pillar.<br />
Two marble Centaurs are adorning the balcony on the first<br />
floor. The patios left and right from the balcony are supported<br />
by Corinthian columns. On the terrace on the second floor<br />
are four bronze nymphs-lampposts. On the left side of the<br />
building is Hermes ready to fly, wearing his sandals and<br />
holding the caduceus.<br />
The heavy entrance door is adorned with brass<br />
representations. On the left Zeus is depicted hitting by<br />
lighting the Titans, and on the right Achilles with his<br />
charioteer on a quadriga chariot. From the entrance the<br />
visitor enters the lobby in a Roman Type patio, of internal<br />
courtyard. The palace is a complex of Orders with strong<br />
Renaissance and Pompey elements.<br />
The first room on the right had been turned by Elizabeth<br />
into a chapel, the subsequent halls were dormitories, while<br />
on the left was the smokehouse, the dining room, a games<br />
room and the galley.<br />
From the reception begins the great staircase, imitation of<br />
the stairs of the Opera in Paris, leading to the upper floors.<br />
The divine couple, Zeus and Hera, in body size, are based on<br />
the railing of the fence.<br />
On the first floor were the apartments of the Emperor Franz<br />
Joseph and Maria Valeria, the youngest daughter of the<br />
Imperial couple.<br />
On the second floor were the apartments of Elisabeth.<br />
The first artwork we encounter is the fresco “The Four<br />
Seasons and the Hours”, on the roof of the reception hall.<br />
A work of the Italian Gallopi, represents in an allegorical way<br />
the changing of the seasons of the year.<br />
398
The imposing Achilleio was built with expenses of Elizabeth.<br />
<strong>CORFU</strong> <strong>PANORAMA</strong> 399
Northeast Corfu<br />
Focusing on the coastal road, we encounter too many<br />
villages succeeding each other. Others are washed by the<br />
waves, others are a bit more inside the inland and others are<br />
mountainous. However, all have their own personality.<br />
Let’s start the “exploration”.<br />
First route<br />
Alepou is a suburb connected to the city of Corfu found<br />
in written sources as early as the 16 th century, as borgo<br />
(suburb).<br />
In 1584 the Church of Agia Paraskevi was founded.<br />
About its name, others claim that it originates from the grape<br />
variety “aloupou” and others from a corruption of the name<br />
of landowners Alipoutza (Alpuzza).<br />
Of course, it can be named after the cunning quadruped.<br />
And Potamos is a suburb of the city of Corfu.<br />
It was named after the river that crosses it and is the most<br />
important in significance and amount of water as well as a<br />
wetland (p. 34). Its banks are joined by the Asirmatos Bridge,<br />
an architectural work of the Venetian period. In the village<br />
are preserved many mansions even from the 16 th century.<br />
The Church of Zoodochou Pigis and Church Barbarian with<br />
its 35 meters’ belfry is a building of the early 16 th century.<br />
On the beach there were salt pans during the Venetian Era.<br />
Evropouli is a small, picturesque village. In a place called<br />
Koukouritsa lies Kapodistrias Museum - Center of<br />
Kapodistrian Studies. It was founded in 1981 and is<br />
donated by Maria Desylla-Kapodistria, Mayor of Corfu<br />
(the first female Mayor in Greece) during the period<br />
1956-1959.<br />
It is housed in the summer residence of the family of the first<br />
Governor of Greece and was part of the estate of his family.<br />
The exhibits are personal items, medals, decorations and<br />
seals with the crest and furniture of that era. In the church is<br />
kept a bagpipe from Russia donated by Kapodistrias himself<br />
to the church. There is also an old oil mill, built in 1777.<br />
Next stop, Kontokali. A coastal village with shady streets<br />
and a sandy beach. It was named after the noble Christopher<br />
Kontokalis who participated as a Sopracomito (the Commander<br />
of a naval ship) in the Βattle of Lepanto (1571).<br />
442
The bells in the steeple of the Church of Saint James the Persian in Old Perithia.<br />
<strong>CORFU</strong> <strong>PANORAMA</strong> 443
Northwest Corfu<br />
“Bounteous beauties” throughout Corfu. Of course, the same<br />
applies and at its northwest side.<br />
Here are some of the most known worldwide beaches. But<br />
we will also encounter many villages that reveal us their<br />
Byzantine history.<br />
First route<br />
Let’s start with Roda, one of the major tourist resorts with<br />
the vast, white beach.<br />
Here was an ancient Doric temple of the 5 th BC century<br />
and some of its parts are exhibited in the Archaeological<br />
Museum of Corfu.<br />
Next beach, Astrakeri, a small coastal settlement. During<br />
the Venetian rule, it was a den of the pirates. It was named<br />
after the flowers-shrubs, astrakes.<br />
According to legend, the flower got its name from the goddess<br />
Asterea who cried because she did not see any stars (astra)<br />
when she looked down to earth.<br />
Karousades were inhabited in 20 BC from the Karoucians,<br />
namely Pontian refugees. During the Byzantine period, it was<br />
an administrative center and developed economically.<br />
In 1453 Theotokis family, with a strong presence in the<br />
economic and cultural life of the island that showed many<br />
politicians, settled here.<br />
Their stately mansion, built in 1500, still exists.<br />
Antiperni is a picturesque village “embraced” by dense<br />
vegetation. It is said that its name has been preserved since<br />
Homer who mentioned it as Antipernaia. It means “cross<br />
over”, i.e. opposite the fortress of the city of Phaeakes.<br />
Sidari is a tourist resort known worldwide. Here lies one of<br />
the biggest attractions of the island: The “Canal of Love”<br />
(Canal d ‘Amour).<br />
It was created by rocks of soft stones rising from the sea.<br />
The legend says that there were two young lovers who were<br />
petrified in the sea.<br />
Tiflos River flows into the middle of the beach. You will enjoy<br />
the calm waters of the sea while swimming and relaxing on<br />
the sand of this beautiful beach.<br />
From here small boats leave for the Diapontian Islands,<br />
Othoni, Ereikousa and Mathraki.<br />
490
A... Drastis who we admire and we are happy to see.<br />
<strong>CORFU</strong> <strong>PANORAMA</strong> 491
Southwest Corfu<br />
And here the greenery reaches the sea.<br />
And here the beaches are one better than the other.<br />
Manor houses, alleys, traditional houses, monuments,<br />
museums adorn and the southwest side of Corfu.<br />
Let’s take a look at all this in more detail.<br />
Kokkini was named after Kokkínis, to whom the area was<br />
given by the Venetians, for his participation, as governor of<br />
a galley in the battle of Lepanto. The mansion Kokkinis, built<br />
on a hill in the early 17 th century, presents an outstanding<br />
architectural interest, is preserved in excellent condition and<br />
is inhabited.<br />
Vatos is built on the mountain of Ai-Giorgis, hidden from<br />
the sea because of the fear of pirates. Here are located two<br />
interesting churches: Agios Nikolaos with Byzantine frescoes<br />
of the 13 th century and Agios Georgios, at the top of the hill<br />
with frescoes of the 14 th and 15 th century.<br />
Rocks covered with pine trees sloping almost vertically on<br />
a gorgeous limpid sea, when there are no waves, is the<br />
amazing landscape of Mirtiotissa.<br />
It was named after the monastery of Panagia Mirtidiotissa<br />
because her icon was found in the myrtles. The monastery is<br />
located on a green rock at the brink of a cliff and was founded<br />
in the 14 th century. from a Christianized Turkish monk.<br />
Glyfada beach is also very nice, popular in youth.<br />
Tall hills with olive trees and pines are “embracing” the bay,<br />
located at the foot of the hill of Pelekas.<br />
Pelekas is a traditional village with its churches, narrow<br />
streets and the “hidden” courtyards. Built on top of an<br />
overgrown with olive trees, pine and cypress trees hill, is<br />
best known for the Kaiser’s Observatory, or else the “Kaiser’s<br />
Throne”, a site with panoramic views of the valley, but also<br />
the most famous sunset of the island. The Emperor William II<br />
used to gaze at the view from here.<br />
Here is located the traditional Museum of Greek Costumes<br />
and Corfiot Music. Local costumes, photographs and parts<br />
of costumes (buckles, sashes, etc.) of the 19 th century are<br />
exhibited.<br />
Also there is file with recordings of traditional songs, hymns<br />
and chants related to the local tradition.<br />
554
Fine sand that stretches in a wide extent in Glyfada beach.<br />
<strong>CORFU</strong> <strong>PANORAMA</strong> 555
Southeast Corfu<br />
Sandy beaches, old salt marshes, historic villages, Byzantine<br />
and Venetian architecture and two unique natural phenomena:<br />
An olive tree with a history of 2.500 thousands of years and<br />
the plant Posidonia whose presence guarantees the absolute<br />
purity of the water.<br />
Let’s get to know and the southeastern Corfu.<br />
Kavos is the mainly busy and tourist destination of Corfu<br />
with intense nightlife. If you want peace and quiet, select<br />
the surrounding villages, which are amidst olive groves.<br />
From here depart boats for Paxi and Antipaxos.<br />
The beach of Kavos is long and sandy with a length of 3km<br />
with clear and shallow waters.<br />
Lefkimmi is in a picturesque town in lowland, amidst olive<br />
groves, vineyards and orchards. The river Chimaros flows<br />
through the town which empties in the beach of Boukas and<br />
in which “dοck” fishing boats. Here are the old salt marshes.<br />
The renovated Venetian buildings were warehouses of salt.<br />
Here are historical monasteries and churches, such as the<br />
monastery of “Kyra of Αngels” of 1698, built by the sons of<br />
Κapodistrias. The church of Agios Arsenios is housing the<br />
relics of the Saint, which was for centuries the patron saint<br />
of Corfu. The church of Agii Theodori stands out for its bell<br />
tower.<br />
In Rigglades you will see many old mansions. This settlement<br />
is dated back from the Byzantine period and was named<br />
after the Rigglis family, who used to live here.<br />
In Melikia you can visit the church of Agios Isavros with rare<br />
wall paintings of the 16 th century.<br />
The beach of Boukas is located at the estuary of Chimaros,<br />
hence the name. It is a small, sandy beach, with characteristic<br />
vegetation at the background.<br />
Since the operation of the salt mines stopped in Alykes of<br />
Lefkimmi, in a beautiful natural environment, the beach of<br />
Alykes has been formed the last two decades. The sandy<br />
beach, clear waters and beautiful surroundings make it ideal<br />
for those seeking the tranquility of nature.<br />
Molos is a coastal village, built in a green olive grove. The<br />
beach of Molos has transparent, crystal-clear waters which<br />
deepen smoothly, fine sand and pebbles.<br />
Hot waters and a long beach in Moraitika.<br />
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“Green Jem”<br />
Such charm of nature wouldn’t let mythology untouched.<br />
The myth says that the island is a work of the God of the sea,<br />
Poseidon.<br />
He flew his trident with all his strength and separated a part<br />
of Corfu to create his love nest with the Nereid Amphitrite<br />
and they had two children, Triton and Benthesikimi meaning<br />
deep wave.<br />
Etymologically the word Paxos -according to Stravonasderived<br />
from the Phoenician word “Paks” which defines<br />
geometrically the shape of a trapezium.<br />
Paxi is like a perfume: tucked in a small bottle.<br />
But that does not diminish its value.<br />
On the contrary, it multiplies it.<br />
The same happens with this island.<br />
It is small, but its beauty is far greater than its extent.<br />
Once it was the “secret paradise” for deserted vacation.<br />
Today it attracts many visitors, but the “green jem of the<br />
Ionian Sea”, as it is called, has not lost anything of its magic<br />
and no idyllic scenery nor heritage has been altered.<br />
When talking about beautiful beaches, picturesque bays,<br />
rugged coastline, spectacular sea caves, age-old olives,<br />
pines, cypresses and bushes, we do not mean some of the<br />
landscapes of Paxi. We mean any place in Paxi.<br />
All these blend into a perfectly fitting set with the traditional<br />
settlements, churches, chapels and dry stacks.<br />
In the amazingly beautiful bays of Paxi numerous excursion<br />
boats dock enjoying the idyllic nature.<br />
Let’s get to know this tiny island better.<br />
Its capital is Gaius. It was named after the pupil of Apostle<br />
Paul, Gaius, one of the eighty wise men who were tasked<br />
with the translation of the Bible.<br />
According to tradition, he died here during a trip, after having<br />
taught to the island the word of God. The legend says that<br />
he is buried behind the altar of the church of Agii Apostoli.<br />
Small, but with a strong “personality” the capital of the island.<br />
Pastel and bold colors together, ochre in contrast with green<br />
and indigo next to the pelagic deep blue characterize Gaius.<br />
You will see the bust of George Anemogiannis, a captain who<br />
was killed by the Turks at Lepanto in 1821.<br />
The port of Gaius “embraced” by land.<br />
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“Beyond the Sea”<br />
The extremity of Greece to the west are the Diapontian Islands,<br />
three islands and several islets. Their name means that they<br />
are “beyond the Sea”, i.e. in the open sea.<br />
The first settlers arrived in the 16th century in Othoni.<br />
After the Battle of Lepanto, in 1571, some islanders left their<br />
residencies and settled here for safety. Later the settlers<br />
expanded and to the other two islands.<br />
Mathraki (Malthaki)<br />
Mathraki is a green dot surrounded by a white sandy beach,<br />
the smallest and southernmost of the Diapontian Islands<br />
with an extent of 3.1 km2.<br />
The two villages, Ano and Kato Mathraki are overlooking<br />
Corfu. There are two churches, St. Nikolaos and St. Spyridon.<br />
The port of the island is Plakes.<br />
A cement road leading to Benatika village with the breathtaking<br />
view.<br />
To the north, we head toward Ano Panta and the south to<br />
Kato Panta. Olive and cypress trees provide a dense shade.<br />
Karavi, Lipso and Plaka are three islets which, according to<br />
legend, are respectively a petrified pirate ship, its boat and<br />
its anchor.<br />
They were petrified by Saint Nikolaos when the pirates<br />
attempted to plunder his chapel on the island of Diapolos.<br />
On the northeast side, the beach Portelo is considered a<br />
paradise for divers and snorkeling.<br />
On the southern coasts you can swim in Fyki and Apidies<br />
with the beautiful sunset. Opposite Fyki is the island Trahia<br />
and further along we head to the old harbor, Kontraka.<br />
From the settlement Chorio, you will reach Cape Arvanitiko,<br />
a cove with white sand and calm waters.<br />
Othoni (Phanos)<br />
The largest island of the “gang” of Diapontian Islands are<br />
Othoni.<br />
Here the visitor can see dense vegetation, wild cypress trees<br />
and the beautiful, clean beaches that are ideal for those<br />
seeking a peaceful holiday.<br />
In only 10.8 km2, the visitor can understand what does “lost<br />
paradise” mean.<br />
Lot of sand but more serenity at the beach of Ereikoussa.<br />
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Mansions and manors<br />
A place that exudes elegance, it can only have impressive<br />
mansions. Even though some of these have been marked by<br />
time, even though some have been altered by the interventions,<br />
the seal of fantasy, detail and care remain unchanged.<br />
Let’s “visit” some of those creations.<br />
Venetian manors<br />
Manor Rikki, Moustoxydou Streer 15: Originally a two-storey<br />
building, probably of the 17 th century with a portico and<br />
arcades. From its balcony, the rulers saw the jousts.<br />
Manor Kobitsi (1680), N. Theotokis Street 43-49: It was built<br />
by Daniel Kompitsis and reformed in 1728. The internal<br />
configuration by Piano Nobilus is luxurious.<br />
Manor Giallinas, Kapodistriou Street 26: Two buildings were<br />
combined and the arcade was added. Later it was expanded.<br />
It was the residence of the painter Angelos Giallinas.<br />
The Building of the Reading Club, Kapodistriou Street 120:<br />
Originally a manor with external staircase and a roofed<br />
landing with arcades. It underwent many transformations.<br />
Manor Saulis, Prosforou Street 25-33: A two-storey building<br />
with an attic and exterior staircase. The entrance to the first<br />
floor has a roofed arched door.<br />
Manor, 1 st byroad Prosforou Street 4-6: A three-storey<br />
building with external staircase and blazon.<br />
Manor, Gilford Street 10: A three-storey building with an<br />
extra floor. The pillars and arches of its arcade are formed by<br />
curved stones.<br />
Manor, 2 nd byroad Panelliniou Street 13-15: The arched<br />
characteristic door is preserved leading to its exterior staircase.<br />
Manor, 4 th byroad Ipapantis Street 4: Originally a two-storey<br />
building, with the addition of two floors and a guardrail with<br />
Venetian balusters, the only surviving specimen.<br />
Manor, Kottardou Street 41: A three-storey building with an<br />
arched arcade on both floors and an external staircase,<br />
unique specimen.<br />
Mansions of the 19 th century<br />
Mansion Kapodistrias, Kapodistriou Street 122a (1832):<br />
It was built in the place of an older mansion, where the first<br />
governor was born. It is considered the most important work<br />
of the architect John Chronis.<br />
Mansion Rikki with the balcony - “grandstand” for the jousts.<br />
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723<br />
The look of the dog adds... wildness to the landscape.
And from above you can see Corfu with<br />
a “parachute”.<br />
<strong>CORFU</strong> <strong>PANORAMA</strong> 735
In Corfu there is always<br />
something... cooking<br />
The Ionian Islands, crossroads of arts, literature and trade,<br />
could not avoid the combination of Eastern and Western<br />
flavors.<br />
The Venetians from the West bring the first carmine colored<br />
varieties of grapes and olives.<br />
The East “lodges” exotic spices, herbs and greens.<br />
With a common base of oil, pepper, beans, pasta and<br />
vegetables, the Corfiot cuisine differs from the rest of Greece,<br />
as imposed by the climatic conditions but also by some old<br />
Venetian habits.<br />
You will certainly find moussaka and Greek salad, but it is<br />
worth looking for its traditional cuisine, the history of which<br />
began many centuries ago. Some recipes and habits have<br />
been preserved until today, brought from the depths of time.<br />
To fully achieve a recipe, you must perform it at the<br />
appropriate time and the appropriate day.<br />
Sofrito on Sundays, pastitsada at celebrations, bianco and<br />
greens on week days and always local wine.<br />
In the winter bourdeto or beans and herring, hake with garlic<br />
on the 25 th of March. Egg and lemon soup in Easter.<br />
In the spring artichokes with broad beans, in the high summer<br />
tomato salad, fish and wine... what is left of it.<br />
Traditionally, farmers of Corfu used to live amid poverty and<br />
misery, which has deteriorated since the Venetians and later,<br />
who imposed only the cultivation of olive trees thus preventing<br />
the development of other crops.<br />
They made their own bread, oil and wine, the greens and<br />
vegetables were cut from their field, the fish were fished and<br />
they cooked them all together and ate them with a lot of<br />
juice to dip their bread.<br />
This created the “Corfiot school” of cuisine.<br />
The rustic rooster is one of two alternatives for pastitsada.<br />
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