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<strong>JB</strong> <strong>Life</strong> July 2017 Volume 7 ISSN# 2508-1284<br />
전라북도국제교류센터<br />
Jeollabuk-do Center for International Affairs<br />
Jeollabuk-do<br />
Global Living<br />
This Issue: JeonJu
Jeollabuk-do Global Living<br />
Summer 2017 / Issue #7<br />
전라북도국제교류센터<br />
Jeollabuk-do Center for International Affairs<br />
Jeonbuk <strong>Life</strong> is a quarterly project of the Jeollabuk-do<br />
Center for International Affairs. Our goal is to spread news<br />
to Jeollabuk-do's international community, as well as to<br />
carry news of Jeonbuk throghout Korea and abroad.<br />
This magazine publishes once per season.<br />
To get involved, e-mail jeonbuklife@gmail.com<br />
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INTRODUCE <strong>JB</strong>CIA<br />
Major Bussiness of <strong>JB</strong>CIA<br />
HIDDEN GEMS OF JEONJU<br />
Speacial Feature<br />
CULTURE<br />
The Last Heir to Chosun<br />
LOCAL FOOD<br />
Gilsonne<br />
Dadam<br />
Clam Flower World<br />
Gamroheon<br />
GLOBAL FOOD<br />
Song's Sweet House<br />
A Taste of South-east Asia at LITTLE LAOS<br />
Grappa Tapas<br />
CAFE<br />
“Charlie” the Chocolate Cafe<br />
Lovely Parrot<br />
BAR<br />
Bar Cold Dawn<br />
Deepin, a Forgotten Gem<br />
MUSEUM<br />
Luielle Hat Culture Center<br />
Jeonju Korean Herbal Medicine Center<br />
Become a Fan of the Fan Museum<br />
ARTS<br />
Palbok Art Factory<br />
Renaissance in Seohak-dong<br />
Gallery Red Box<br />
NATURE<br />
Ajungli Nature Experience Center<br />
The Jeonju Arboretum<br />
CULTURE<br />
Ilwonsa Temple<br />
FICTION<br />
As American as Avocado<br />
GRAPHIC ILLUSTRATION<br />
“The Future is Dark”<br />
JEOLLA DIALECT<br />
Jeonbuk <strong>Life</strong> Editorial Staff:<br />
● ANJEE DISANTO, U.S.A<br />
● MINSEOK YI, KOREA<br />
Jeonbuk <strong>Life</strong> Writers & Artists:<br />
● BONNIE CUNNINGHAM<br />
● MIRIAM LEE<br />
● BEN BRAINERD<br />
● AXEL LEMUS<br />
● AMANDUS BORLAND<br />
● SILAYAN CASINO<br />
● SANCHEON LEE<br />
● STEPHEN NOAKES<br />
● SEWWHANDI CHANDRASEKARA<br />
● YOONHA KIM<br />
Jeollabuk-do’s International Magazine July 2017, Issue #7<br />
Registration No. ISSN : 2508-1284<br />
<strong>JB</strong> LIFE is published by the <strong>JB</strong>CIA (Jeonbuk Center for International Affairs)<br />
전라북도국제교류센터<br />
164 Palgwajeong-ro, Deokjin-gu, Jeonju, Jeollabuk-do, Korea<br />
Tel:(+82)63-214-5601~6 Fax:(+82)63-214-5608
INTORDUCE <strong>JB</strong>CIA<br />
Major Bussiness of <strong>JB</strong>CIA<br />
Beating the heat with the<br />
Written By AXEL LEMUS<br />
Despite its short existence, the Jeollabukdo<br />
Center for International Affairs keeps<br />
running programs geared towards creating<br />
links between locals, international residents, and the<br />
world. Here’s a look at what the <strong>JB</strong>CIA has been up<br />
to during the summer of 2017. For more information<br />
and details on how to participate in the center’s<br />
activities, please keep an eye on the <strong>JB</strong>CIA’s<br />
website at jbcia.or.kr.<br />
13th. There will also be a film crew accompanying<br />
the volunteers to capture their journey, so make sure<br />
not to miss the documentary when it comes out!<br />
Visiting Lectures on International<br />
Exchange<br />
2017 Summer Overseas Volunteers<br />
Program: Vietnam<br />
The <strong>JB</strong>CIA is currently collaborating with the<br />
Jimmy Carter School of International Studies<br />
(JIS) at Chonbuk National University to help send<br />
a group of university students and Jeollabuk-do<br />
citizens to volunteer in Vietnam’s Dak Lak province.<br />
The goal of this program is not only to strengthen<br />
the volunteers’ global capabilities, but also to leave<br />
a positive impact on a rural village with distinctly<br />
Korean characteristics. The group is set to leave for<br />
Vietnam on August 5th and return to Korea on the<br />
Young people throughout the world will become<br />
tomorrow’s future leaders and key decision makers.<br />
It is for this reason that the <strong>JB</strong>CIA provides the<br />
public, especially the younger generations, with<br />
visiting lectures on international topics such as<br />
diplomacy and cultural diversity. The center<br />
visited Bongseo Elementary School in Wanju<br />
earlier this month to host a lecture by ex-Korean<br />
diplomat Juhyeon Baek. The eager elementary<br />
schoolers gained useful insight on what it takes to<br />
be a diplomat and what the job involves. Through<br />
hosting these types of lectures, the center aims to<br />
help cultivate globally-minded talent necessary for<br />
Jeollabuk-do’s future.<br />
<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 3
INTRODUCE <strong>JB</strong>CIA<br />
KF-<strong>JB</strong>CIA Theme Field Trip<br />
On Friday June 30th, the <strong>JB</strong>CIA collaborated<br />
alongside the Korea Foundation (KF) to give a group<br />
of foreigners residing in Seoul the opportunity to<br />
experience Jeonju. While in Jeonju, the group had a<br />
chance to experience what Jeonju is best known for:<br />
superb Korean food and the city’s Hanok Village.<br />
Through a guided tour of Hanok Village, eating<br />
at some of the city’s well-renowned restaurants,<br />
parading in beautiful hanboks, and partaking in<br />
other cultural activities, the participants felt as if<br />
they were close friends meeting to have a good<br />
time, rather than strangers who had met each other<br />
the night before. As a city famous for its traditional<br />
cultural assets, Jeonju is a must-see destination for<br />
domestic and foreign tourists alike. The <strong>JB</strong>CIA<br />
seeks not only to promote these attractive aspects of<br />
Jeollabuk-do, but also to reassure foreigner visitors<br />
that they will make wonderful memories during<br />
their stay. The overwhelmingly positive responses<br />
from applicants will pave the way for similar<br />
programs in the future.<br />
Jeonbuk-Tacoma Youth Exchange<br />
Camp<br />
The <strong>JB</strong>CIA is working together with the city of<br />
Tacoma to promote mutual cultural and language<br />
exchange between the youth of each city through a<br />
summer camp program. High school students from<br />
Tacoma, Washington will spend a total of twelve<br />
days in Jeollabuk-do as they participate in activities<br />
with their Korean counterparts (camping, Korean<br />
cultural activities, etc). The center aims to help<br />
young participants take the lead in international<br />
exchanges between ordinary people.<br />
4
2017 Jeollabuk-do International<br />
Exchange Day<br />
After last year’s success, the <strong>JB</strong>CIA is getting ready<br />
for the second annual Jeollabukdo International<br />
Exchange Day on Saturday, September 23rd. This<br />
year the festival will be held on the grounds of the<br />
Jeollabuk-do provincial government building (across<br />
the street from Sinsigaji) and its main theme will<br />
focus around making harmony between Korean<br />
and foreign residents. There will be many activities<br />
that anyone, regardless of age or nationality, can<br />
enjoy. Make sure not to miss the live performances,<br />
experience booths by foreign embassies, lectures on<br />
other countries, and many of the other activities at<br />
this year’s Jeollabuk-do International Exchange Day!<br />
Jeonbuk International Student<br />
Ambassadors<br />
The third round of the Jeonbuk International<br />
Student Ambassadors recently concluded early this<br />
June. Through financial support from the <strong>JB</strong>CIA,<br />
international students in Jeollabuk-do were able<br />
to travel all around the region while promoting on<br />
social media its many tourist destinations, foods,<br />
festivals, and other cultural assets. The PR teams<br />
decided whether they would promote the region<br />
through video or pictures, and the teams were<br />
composed of students from China, Mongolia, Latin<br />
American, and Japan. International students in<br />
the region, make sure not to miss your chance to<br />
participate this fall!<br />
in the region that is composed mostly of foreign<br />
residents. The goal of this program is to enhance the<br />
wellbeing of foreign residents while also promoting<br />
mutual exchange and friendship with local residents.<br />
The financial assistance can be up to 1,000,000 won<br />
but it is not provided in cash. For details on how to<br />
apply, make sure to check the announcement board<br />
on the <strong>JB</strong>CIA’s website or call at 063-214-5604.<br />
JISU Supporters Visit Seoul<br />
The official support group of the <strong>JB</strong>CIA, JISU,<br />
went to Insandong in Seoul on May 27th to promote<br />
Jeollabuk-do to foreign tourists. Many of the<br />
passersby were able to get a taste of Jeollabuk-do<br />
through sampling regional food items such as Imsil<br />
cheese and experience booths that replicate famous<br />
tourist destinations. Foreign visitors were not the<br />
only ones that got in on the fun, JISU supporters<br />
also got to participate in the flash mob, food tasting,<br />
and other activities.<br />
The center is always looking for passionate<br />
supporters who love Jeollabuk-do. Those interested<br />
can apply in the beginning of the year in various<br />
positions (planning, homestay, foreign language,<br />
counselling, ect). Recruitment is on-going year<br />
round for positions short in staff. Make sure to not<br />
miss your chance to apply!<br />
Foreign Community Support<br />
Service 2017<br />
The <strong>JB</strong>CIA is currently looking to give financial<br />
assistance to any sort of hobby or activity group<br />
<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 5
Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />
SPEACIAL FEATURE<br />
6
hile <strong>JB</strong> <strong>Life</strong> typically profiles sites throughout Jeonbuk province in each issue, for the next two issues<br />
we’re taking the opportunity to feature “Hidden Gems,” first from within Jeonbuk’s capital, Jeonju,<br />
and then from outside of it.<br />
This issue focuses on Jeonju alone, offering up 22 “gems” for you to discover in a city steeped in both tradition<br />
and modernity. These gems can encompass a lot of things. One is a person – Yi Seok, a jewel of Jeonju and the<br />
last heir to the fallen Chosun dynasty. Some are local Korean foodie finds, such as haemultang and the pumpkinbased<br />
goodness of Dadam, a treasured Jeonju restaurant. Others encompass tourist sites, cultural spots, bars,<br />
cafes, and foreign cuisines, almost all lesser-known but all worth the visit.<br />
Jeonju is ever-expanding, yet retains an overflowing trove of history and traditional culture. In such a city, it’s<br />
easy to overlook treasures of both the old and new variety, even when they are right under your nose from day to<br />
day. Our hope is to spread some of the knowledge and increase the awareness of some of Jeonju’s lesser-known<br />
hits.<br />
In the next issue, we’ll focus on “hidden gems” of the province, beyond the Jeonju city limits, probing into the<br />
smaller cities and counties. Jeonbuk has a lot to offer in both the metropolitan and rural areas, so let’s take some<br />
time to explore it together!<br />
<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 7
Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />
CULTURE<br />
The Last Heir to Chosun<br />
By ANJEE DISANTO<br />
Photos by Anjee DiSanto<br />
When Yi Seok walks into a room, it’s<br />
hard not to focus on him. It’s not<br />
just the characteristic bright yellow<br />
hanbok shirt that he wears so proudly. More than<br />
that, it’s perhaps the joy in his face, the smile of<br />
someone who is “77 going on 49” (in his own<br />
words).<br />
But many people, even Koreans, don’t know<br />
much about him or his history – the country’s<br />
history. This lack of historical connection is<br />
something Yi laments, and takes it upon himself<br />
to correct whenever possible.<br />
Why?<br />
Because Yi Seok is the last remaining heir to the<br />
Chosun Dynasty.<br />
Of course, the Chosun Dynasty is no more, but<br />
even after its demise it left an abundant lineage.<br />
Emperor Sunjong was the last official ruler in the<br />
line, serving until 1910. Yi Seok doesn’t descend<br />
directly from this former emperor, but from one<br />
of his brothers. To give an idea of the scale of the<br />
family in general, Lee’s own father boasted 13<br />
sons and 20 daughters to 14 wives (Yi was the 11 th<br />
among those).<br />
Despite all of the heirs, now it is Yi Seok is left.<br />
If you sit and chat with him in Seung-gwang-jae,<br />
the house Jeonju city built for him 15 years ago, it<br />
seems he’s found a lifestyle suitable for a wouldbe<br />
king. He talks of his golf game and eating<br />
soups, sometimes samgyeopsal. Drinks highclass<br />
tea from China across from a portrait of his<br />
grandfather, Emperor Gojung.<br />
But it wasn’t always so.<br />
Yi Seok’s path was a rocky one, perhaps<br />
unexpected of a royal heir. He became a singer<br />
in 1960, at age 21. He was also a DJ for a year<br />
and a half and memorized the lyrics to hundreds<br />
of songs. At that time, conditions in Korea were<br />
poor, and he did whatever he could.<br />
Yi’s life as a singer progressed when he saw an<br />
ad in the newspaper to audition as a singer for<br />
American troops in Korea. He sang “Tonight”<br />
from West Side Story, to a tremendous reaction.<br />
The representatives called him a mixture of Perry<br />
Como and Andy Williams, unlike any male voice<br />
in Korea. Two years later, he’d be singing and<br />
emceeing at a hotel and getting kissed on the<br />
cheek by Louis Armstrong (a memorable moment<br />
for Yi Seok).<br />
8
Some people remember him for these times, as<br />
a singer, particularly for a song called “Pigeon<br />
House” that became popular at weddings.<br />
Unfortunately, it wasn’t always so harmonious<br />
for him. In the late 60s, Yi Seok went to Vietnam<br />
with the Tiger Division and was wounded. In<br />
1969, his mother died, and he supported four<br />
brothers with his singing career. Nine times, he<br />
says, he attempted suicide.<br />
Yi Seok lived in one of the palaces until 1979,<br />
when revolution took over. The dictator kicked<br />
them out, and on December 9 th , he left for<br />
America. At that time, he told everyone he would<br />
never come back to Korea.<br />
Of course, he would later come back, but Yi’s<br />
time in the U.S. was wild and formative. He talks<br />
of singing songs for Chinese gang bosses at a<br />
restaurant in San Francisco. A Spanish major in<br />
university, he also boasts of avoiding a mugging<br />
by joking in Spanish to a Latino assailant.<br />
But Yi Seok returns, and part of it, he says, is<br />
about history.<br />
“Korean people almost forget history,” Lee notes.<br />
He wants people to remember the royal line,<br />
the history of occupation, and everything<br />
associated. He tells of how Japanese tried to<br />
water down the Korean royal line by marrying<br />
its men off to Japanese women. He laments<br />
how his older brother, who actively engaged in<br />
Korea’s liberation, was killed by atomic bomb in<br />
Hiroshima. He notes how a power struggle with<br />
the Andong Kim clan nearly wiped out the Yi<br />
family, which has its original roots in Jeonju.<br />
Nowadays, he lectures on such topics to Korean<br />
and foreigners alike, urging them to remember<br />
history.<br />
“The new generation they don’t study about<br />
history,” he says. “That’s the problem.”<br />
But in the present, at least, life is once again<br />
not so bad for Yi Seok. The grounds of Seunggwang-jae<br />
have served as a guest house of sorts,<br />
with tourists coming through and his wife serving<br />
them her special homemade noodles.<br />
Every morning he speed walks to the nearby<br />
Omokdae landmark – a luxury of not being<br />
royalty, he says. When young, in the palaces,<br />
servants would never let him run or even hurry. In<br />
fact, at a Sports Day once, his vice principal had<br />
to do his running for him.<br />
He keeps in touch with his remaining sisters,<br />
who visited him this year in Jeonju, as well as his<br />
daughters back in America, aged 46 and 37. “You<br />
are the king,” he tells them, as there are no male<br />
heirs to carry on the assumed lineage.<br />
And while his daughters urge him to come back to<br />
the U.S. to live, Yi Seok refuses.<br />
“This is my place until I die,” he proudly affirms.<br />
And his singing? Surprisingly, his voice<br />
remains. A friend asked him why his voice was<br />
still so strong at his age. He told him that had<br />
taken some chestnuts from the secret garden at<br />
Changdeokgung Palace, allowing his voice to stay<br />
strong and sweet.<br />
In the end, Yi Seok may carry with him a lot of<br />
“legends,” but more importantly, he carries with<br />
him an undeniable history -- Korea’s history.<br />
<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 9
Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />
LOCAL FOOD<br />
Gilsonne<br />
By SANCHEON LEE<br />
10
Throughout the world, people cook and<br />
eat chicken in different ways, buy Korea<br />
is especially well known for its magical<br />
methods of preparing chicken. Have you heard<br />
dakbokkeumtang, or braised spicy chicken? Known<br />
by its alternate name of dalkdoritang to some, this<br />
dish consists of marinated chicken pieces and is<br />
boiled in a spicy broth. Braised spicy chicken is<br />
something that most Koreans enjoy eating from time<br />
to time, and one of the most famous restaurants for<br />
this particular dish is in the Old Gate area of Chonbuk<br />
National University, called Gilsonne.<br />
The appearance of the restaurant is unique, with its<br />
clay face and straw ornamentation, and looks similar<br />
to a cabin in the woods. Some local foreigners who<br />
do know this spot even have their own names for it<br />
based on its appearance, such as “Witch’s Cauldron.”<br />
As you make your way into the restaurant, though,<br />
the dimmed lights give it a calm atmosphere.<br />
Gilsonne is a “bachelor's pub.” What is the bachelor’s<br />
pub? That is a pub where university students drink<br />
after the class. But beyond drinking, this restaurant<br />
is famous for its dakbokkeumtang and its spicy yet<br />
mind-blowing broth. Enjoyed alongside Korean<br />
pancakes and traditional alcohols like nurrunji<br />
makkeoli (burnt rice wine) by crotchety yet loving<br />
old ajummas, this is a meal to remember. The stew<br />
is served in big bowls to share, family style, and the<br />
generous serving is one of the biggest strengths of the<br />
restaurant. If the portion is too large, though, you can<br />
order half of one chicken. The price of one chicken<br />
is 22,000 won, and the half chicken is 12,000 won.<br />
In addition, kimchi stew, bean paste stew, kimchi<br />
pancake, and stir-fried spicy pork are also popular<br />
side dishes.<br />
The space itself is actually not large enough to<br />
accommodate many people, so it’s not rare to see<br />
a crowd of people waiting to go in. That is the<br />
characteristic of any famous Korean restaurant. The<br />
service at that restaurant is so very good. Their kind<br />
service, in particular to people from other provinces,<br />
is what keeps hungry customers coming for more.<br />
If you want to taste true Korean traditional flavors,<br />
you should visit Gilsonne, just down from Chonbuk<br />
University’s Old Gate. The restaurant is open from<br />
11:30 am until midnight, and does serve lunch.<br />
Before visiting, If you want to reserve a table (and<br />
perhaps you should), you can call 063-271-6453.<br />
<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 11
Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />
LOCAL FOOD<br />
Dadam<br />
By MIRIAM LEE<br />
Photos by Anjee DiSanto<br />
12
Nestled above the massive banks and<br />
stores lining Baekjero (the six lane<br />
boulevard of cars rolling through the<br />
city from the train station to the department store),<br />
one of Jeonju’s best loved restaurants is perched<br />
like a wise old owl quietly watching the rat race<br />
below. It lies up a sturdy little hill and through an<br />
unassuming archway. Dadam, like the pumpkin<br />
dish it is famous for, is a deliciously stuffed<br />
treasure onto itself.<br />
A quaint and ornate garden walkway greets<br />
you with bright green plants and earthy tones<br />
of kimchi pots and wagon wheels, immediately<br />
calming the stress of the busy street below to the<br />
forgotten past before you even leave your shoes at<br />
the door and step inside.<br />
The restaurant is decorated with an antique<br />
collector’s dream- ceramics, instruments and<br />
music boxes neatly clutter every wall. The<br />
low tables are set beautifully with a view of the<br />
gardens, and the sprinkling of sesame seeds on<br />
side dishes seem to fall directly from the tinkling<br />
piano music overhead.<br />
The nooks and crannies and wooden screens give<br />
a sense of space, so that even with the hordes of<br />
teapots and hungry regulars, a calm homeliness<br />
prevails, and lets you feel free to pull up another<br />
red embroidered cushion and nibble the afternoon<br />
away.<br />
The Tan HoBak, a sweet pumpkin stuffed with<br />
dates, seeds and sticky rice, will feed several<br />
people, who will also want to save room for the<br />
fresh and delicious Sae Sa Gae Ran Mari (“egg<br />
roll”, but not to be confused with the small fried<br />
snack- this is more like a thin egg omelette<br />
lasagna, layered with cheese and topped with<br />
fresh greens and sprouts) as well as an abundance<br />
of tasty and beautifully presented side dishes.<br />
ChapJae and pink pickled lotus roots adorn the<br />
table, along with acorn jelly tofu, a warming<br />
DuenJang soup, and many more. Try ordering<br />
their nourishing Sprout BiBimBap, or Yon Ip Bap,<br />
which is a steamy package of sticky rice folded in<br />
a lotus flower leaf.<br />
The softly crumbling roasted pumpkin takes<br />
about an hour to prepare, so be sure to call and<br />
order ahead. The phone number is 063-242-3004.<br />
They are closed Sundays, but open from 11am to<br />
9pm all other days. This is a great place to bring<br />
visitors to Jeonju, or just to nourish yourself.<br />
You’ll leave feeling like a stuffed treasure<br />
yourself.<br />
<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 13
Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />
LOCAL FOOD<br />
Clam Flower World<br />
By ANJEE DISANTO<br />
Photos by Anjee DiSanto<br />
14
Those of us who aren’t Korean might<br />
initially shy away from dishes like<br />
hameultang, a mixed seafood stew. That’s<br />
probably because of the variety of ingredients<br />
tossed into the mix, many of which are live and<br />
wriggling at the point of entry. But to deny this<br />
dish just for that aversion is to deny a delicious<br />
and diverse culinary experience of one Korea’s<br />
traditional dishes.<br />
Jeonju is not at the ocean, it’s true, but since<br />
this is a stereotypical “foodie” city in Korea, of<br />
course you can find haemultang here. For this<br />
issue, we’re profiling just one of many place to eat<br />
this hidden food gem in Jeonju – “Clam Flower<br />
World” in Songcheondong.<br />
Here, everything under the sea (and some things<br />
above) get thrown in the pot. Oysters, clams,<br />
scallops, abalone, fan mussels, and octopus are all<br />
present, along with some obligatory sausages and<br />
ginseng. Depending on the seasons you might<br />
also find crab or even a small chicken (to go with<br />
the summer tradition of eating samgyetang).<br />
Many of these items are daunting and still<br />
pulsating on the table… if not outright trying to<br />
escape. A worker comes by to dump a doomed<br />
octopus into your soup, cutting it up on the spot.<br />
Much of the rest is left for you to peel out of shells<br />
and boil. The giant fan mussels are some of the<br />
most impressive, and their shells end up serving<br />
as bowls for the bits of seafood that are finished<br />
cooking.<br />
The sides here are primarily fish-based as<br />
well, and for dipping you’ll find the standard,<br />
somewhat-spicy Korean red sauce. Thankfully,<br />
the seafood itself maintains its own flavor with a<br />
hint of the ginseng, not needing too much sauce in<br />
any case.<br />
Like with many Korean dishes, you can add in<br />
components like ramen and udong, or get rice on<br />
the side, but with the amount of food on offer, that<br />
might just be overkill.<br />
This meal comes at a bit of price, but it’s worth<br />
it for the spread you get. A two-person “small”<br />
portion (which is anything but) runs at 49,000,<br />
with a medium portion at 59,000 and a large<br />
at 69,000. Certain non-haemultang spreads of<br />
individual seafood can be ordered separately, if<br />
the whole shebang isn’t to your liking.<br />
This branch restaurant is just around the corner<br />
from McDonald’s in Jeonju’s Songcheondong, but<br />
several others exist around town (along with many<br />
other restaurants specializing in haemultang and<br />
the like). No matter the location, be sure to take in<br />
the variety offered with dish, from the wriggling<br />
beginning to the overstuffed end.<br />
<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 15
Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />
LOCAL FOOD<br />
Gamroheon<br />
By ANJEE DISANTO<br />
Photos by Anjee DiSanto<br />
With the proliferation of fried chicken<br />
restaurants in Korea, it’s sometimes<br />
easy to forget that Korean food has a<br />
whole range of healthy components as well. But<br />
at Gamroheon, near Chonbuk University’s New<br />
Gate, it’s impossible not to notice this!<br />
Gamroheon is a small, independent Korean<br />
restaurant that specializes in “medicinal” cooking.<br />
The main courses are based on the model of<br />
hanjeongsik or baekban – in other words, having a<br />
spread of many small side dishes. But everything<br />
is a bit different here, using spices and flavor<br />
combinations that are outside the Korean norm to<br />
create a healthy, refreshing experience.<br />
Apples here might be topped with black sesame<br />
paste, or greens marinated to leave a slight licorice<br />
flavor. The doenjang is made with mushrooms<br />
and tastes softer and heartier than normal fare.<br />
Even the rice is unique in Korean terms, using<br />
turmeric for a slight flavoring and bright yellow<br />
color. All in all, you’re likely to get a range of 10-<br />
20 dishes that will range from just tasting fresh to<br />
breaking your flavor expectations.<br />
The basic medicinal hanjeongsik spread, which is<br />
16
more than enough for a broad tasting, costs 15,000<br />
won per person, or take it up one level for a more<br />
impressive experience with a cauldron of pork<br />
steamed on pine needles (recommended) at 25,000<br />
won per head. There’s also a 50,000 won set that<br />
is bound to be impressive. A few other individual<br />
dishes can be ordered, such as a medicinally<br />
prepared sweet-and-sour Pyogo mushroom dish<br />
(25,000) or broiled duck (a lavish choice at 70,000<br />
won).<br />
Owner Jo Hyeon Ju is proud of her fare and a very<br />
hospitable host. If you call ahead, she can easily<br />
prepare exclusively vegan or vegetarian spreads,<br />
or even a mixture of both (on arrival, she is very<br />
clear about separating dishes and on what does<br />
or does not contain animal products). On certain<br />
days, like Wednesdays or Fridays, vegan meals<br />
are prepared as a standard, but on other days the<br />
possibility is always there for those who need it.<br />
(Call or message ahead at 010-5773-2313.)<br />
Gamroheon open from 11 to 9, resting on<br />
Sundays, and is located just behind the Jeonbuk<br />
Bank tower past the CBNU New Gate. The<br />
restaurant is well-known enough to fill it’s seating<br />
some days for lunch or dinner, so to be safe, it’s<br />
best to call ahead and lock in a table.<br />
If you have a chance, take a break from all<br />
the fried foods and let your body heal through<br />
Gamroheon’s distinct menu. It may give you a<br />
new appreciation for the typical Korean side dish<br />
spread!<br />
<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 17
Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />
GLOBAL FOOD<br />
By ANJEE DISANTO<br />
Photos by Anjee DiSanto<br />
It’s hard to say whether this can count as<br />
a “hidden gem,” as many locals (expats<br />
especially) have become regulars, but<br />
there are still plenty of people who haven’t<br />
hunted it down to witness its greatness.<br />
Song’s Sweet House, located just down<br />
the street from Pungnammun in Jeonju’s<br />
Nambu Market area, is a cake and pie<br />
shop for those who favor distinct flavors.<br />
If you browse their professional-looking<br />
instagram (@songs_sweethouse), you<br />
might imagine you’ll be visiting an upscale<br />
gourmet bakery with the prices to match.<br />
In reality, the “gourmet” taste is there, but<br />
the price point is much more reasonable.<br />
Lemon ginger, orange caramel, black<br />
sesame matcha, almond apricot… these<br />
are just a few of the unexpected (at least<br />
for Korea) combinations one might<br />
come across here. But where do these<br />
combinations spring from?<br />
“I don’t think it’s my skill or technique,”<br />
owner Hwayoung Song says. “I just know<br />
how things should taste.”<br />
Song did not study baking formally, and<br />
explains that her “baking spirit” did not come<br />
in the beginning, but developed over time.<br />
She used to live in New York City and had a<br />
habit of trying all the fancy things she could,<br />
so she learned the suitable combinations<br />
of tastes well. When she did start baking,<br />
she says, it led to a “lot of disasters” in the<br />
beginning, but, as any customer can see, the<br />
end results are not that.<br />
“I like the fact that I started out as nonprofessional,<br />
because then I can do<br />
whatever I want. I can be more creative.”<br />
18
As examples, she mentions putting the<br />
earthiness of rosemary into a coconut lime<br />
pie, or ginger into a lemon meringue (a hit<br />
with her customers, though she notes that<br />
many people are initially afraid of ginger).<br />
Song is still teaching herself on how to<br />
combine creative flavors and bake new<br />
dishes, too, especially through YouTube<br />
and books. She’s hoping to delve more into<br />
breads in the future.<br />
Besides flavors, Song strays from some<br />
of the typical Korean bakery trends in<br />
other ways. For one, her desserts are not<br />
markedly sweet, as many in Korea are.<br />
She also doesn’t make the same dishes<br />
every day, with the exception of a few that<br />
are mostly recurring. Some have told her<br />
“You’ll never make money that way,” but<br />
for someone who relishes the creativity<br />
in baking, a steady menu is not that<br />
appetizing.<br />
Song also uses all natural ingredients… real<br />
butter, real cream, no preservatives. She<br />
even makes the caramel and mocha herself,<br />
instead of using syrup, and grinds her own<br />
chocolate for hot chocolate. There’s a<br />
lower profit margin involved, she says, but<br />
a higher degree of pride.<br />
On the topic of pride, Ms. Song grew up<br />
in this neighborhood and has a strong<br />
fondness for its character. The café itself<br />
used to be a famous pharmacy belonging to<br />
her father, while the family lived upstairs.<br />
She had been living abroad in Canada for<br />
30 years when her father fell ill, but took<br />
the opportunity to come back and ensure<br />
that her childhood home wasn’t sold. But<br />
then came the challenge.<br />
She needed to open<br />
a shop, but had<br />
actually never worked<br />
before. She decided on<br />
a coffee shop with cakes,<br />
but had never baked these<br />
cakes before. Nevertheless, she<br />
undertook the challenge, and Song’s<br />
Sweet House was born.<br />
Nowadays, Song’s café has a good number<br />
of non-Korean customers. Most are<br />
younger people who have traveled to get<br />
there, usually from across town – not as<br />
many tourists, despite being close to the<br />
market and Hanok Village. People come<br />
for the cozy atmosphere and the fresh<br />
cakes, but many also know her and are<br />
eager to have regular conversation.<br />
She does keep a few regular dishes on hand<br />
for these loyal customers, such as her carrot<br />
cake. This is a recommended dish for any<br />
new customer, along with the Boston cream<br />
pie and earl grey tea cake, or any of the<br />
pies. Song comments that<br />
Song’s Sweet House is open until 8 p.m. on<br />
Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday, until 6 on<br />
Sunday, and until 9 on Friday and Saturday<br />
(making it a great stop from the night<br />
market). The seating area is small, but<br />
you’re likely to be lucky enough to snag a<br />
window seat at most times of days. These<br />
are ideal for people watching and watching<br />
any weather that might be happening<br />
outside while you’re enjoying your coffee<br />
and cake safely inside.<br />
<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 19
Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />
GLOBAL FOOD<br />
20
By ANJEE DISANTO<br />
Photos by Anjee DiSanto<br />
These days, Jeonju has more than a dozen<br />
restaurants offering Vietnamese style<br />
pho, or rice noodle soup, and with those,<br />
other types of Southeast Asian shops have begun<br />
to appear little by little in the city’s culinary<br />
landscape. Little Laos is one of these, but differs<br />
in terms of its location, style, and fare, making it<br />
a great alternative destination.<br />
Little Laos, a relatively new addition to the<br />
Jeonju food scene, is located in Seohak-dong, just<br />
next to Jeonju National University of Education.<br />
How could such a shop appear here? Is there a<br />
Laotian presence? In reality, this café is owned<br />
by a very hospitable Korean family who lived<br />
in Laos for seven years and who adore Laotian<br />
culture and food. The owner originally opened<br />
the space as a gallery in this up-and-coming<br />
artistic neighborhood, as he owns a wide array<br />
of art from fairly famous Laotian artists. You’ll<br />
even see an antique stone Khmer statue here that<br />
is worthy of being in a history museum!<br />
As for the food and drink, while the menu is<br />
simple, it doesn’t disappoint. You’ll of course<br />
find rice noodle soups, the most typical one filled<br />
with chunks of beef (but a heartier cut than many<br />
Vietnamese style beef pho bowls in Korea).<br />
Along with this are a few choices of baguette<br />
sandwiches, showing the country’s French<br />
influence. These are dense and close to the style of<br />
Vietnamese banh mi, offering a nice respite from<br />
the typical Korean “Western” sandwiches full<br />
of filler. The restaurant also recommends a dish<br />
offering a plate of Laotian barbecue alongside<br />
cold noodle soup, perfect for the still-hot months.<br />
If you’re not eating and just want to stop by for<br />
the art and a drink, the shop sells mango and<br />
passionfruit juice, Laotian coffee, and the popular<br />
Beer Lao.<br />
The family running this café and gallery are<br />
perfect hosts, and are likely to ask you in which<br />
language they can speak to you. It’s worth<br />
visiting here for the food, the drink, the art, or just<br />
the atmosphere of the neighborhood, all ready to<br />
be soaked up at a good price in a cozy spot.<br />
<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 21
Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />
GLOBAL FOOD<br />
22
By STEPHEN NOAKES<br />
Photos by Anjee DiSanto<br />
I<br />
ascend the staircase, rising above the<br />
cacophony and claustrophobia that is Nambu<br />
market on a Saturday night. A man and a<br />
woman in painted faces bang a drum to the beat<br />
of a synthetic, noraebang-esque folk song, but I<br />
don't understand what I'm looking at. Yeah... I<br />
could use a glass of wine.<br />
Owner/head chef, Joo Beomjun, has operated<br />
Grappa Tapas out of the same venue, on the second<br />
floor of Nambu market, for the past for years,<br />
serving fine Spanish cuisine at a reasonable price.<br />
The restaurant seats eight, so don't go there with<br />
a large group of friends. It's more of a place<br />
for an intimate date night than for a guys' and<br />
girls' night out. The cozy quarters contribute<br />
to the atmosphere, a warm, burgundy paint job<br />
with matching wine bottles, trinkets from Spain,<br />
and Nightmare before Christmas figurines that<br />
somehow don't feel out of the place at all. I<br />
slouch back in my chair, feeling mellow from the<br />
wine and whimsy, as the first course arrives.<br />
Full disclosure. It's safe to say that my palate has<br />
become just a little Koreanized over the months.<br />
Sometimes, I go to a restaurant, order an old<br />
favorite from back home, taste it, and ask myself,<br />
“Is this really what it's supposed to taste like?<br />
I think it's close, but I can't quite remember.”<br />
This time, there is no mistaking it. It all comes<br />
flooding back. I remember butter!<br />
I will let the dishes speak for themselves. Here<br />
are my general impressions:<br />
First Course: Palpo. Octopus in a butter and<br />
garlic sauce, served with bread. The Koreans do<br />
octopus right, so this is a safe bet. The garlic is a<br />
rich, golden brown. It hasn't been minced. The<br />
cloves are almost whole. There is no garlic bite,<br />
the cloves having been sautéed in butter.<br />
Second Course: Carbonara de Chosua. Bacon<br />
pasta. I think Mr. Joo makes his own pasta, and<br />
there is a world of difference compared to the<br />
boxed stuff I pick up at Lotte Super. He applies<br />
parmesan like a surgeon. His efforts pay off. It<br />
isn't fatty or greasy. The bacon is tender, not<br />
quite crispy.<br />
Grappa’s menu varies from time to time. Other<br />
popular dishes have and may include tender<br />
stacks of mushrooms (de setas) or the ridiculously<br />
tender Estofado de Panceta, a saucy pork dish.<br />
Both of these as well are sure to stun.<br />
Grappa Tapas is closed on Mondays. Even still,<br />
it is best to eat a light lunch and show up early<br />
on any other day of the week. Like many of the<br />
restaurant in the youth market, they sometimes<br />
sell out of food after the dinner rush. Mr. Joo is<br />
also elusive in terms of social media and contact<br />
information, so as with many other shops in the<br />
area, you show up and hope for an open door<br />
with a seat. This is, indeed, part of the charm,<br />
and the food makes it well worth it.<br />
<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 23
Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />
CAFE<br />
the Chocolate Cafe<br />
“Charlie”<br />
By ANJEE DISANTO<br />
Photos by Anjee DiSanto<br />
While most Jeonju neighborhoods are<br />
overflowing with cafes, the bulk<br />
of them differentiate themselves<br />
through interior theme or price discounts, not<br />
through an actual distinct menu. This is not<br />
the case with Charlie, a chocolate-themed<br />
café downtown, just steps from the Korean<br />
Traditional Culture Center.<br />
Walking into Charlie, you’re greeted by deep<br />
red walls, soft lighting, and the aroma of thick,<br />
rich chocolate. The menu matches. Here, the<br />
24
highlight is the 8 kinds of flavored hot<br />
chocolate (listed as chocolat chaud) and<br />
several flavors of iced chocolate, all of<br />
which are thicker than the norm and<br />
more akin to European-style drinking<br />
chocolate. Besides the more basic<br />
flavors, you can find “Oriental” (a<br />
medicinal blend), the banana-flavored<br />
“African Swing,” and an orange-flavored<br />
white-chocolate blend called “Stockholm<br />
Syndrome,” among others. All are<br />
served in beautifully patterned cups with<br />
saucers that make you want to put your<br />
pinky up and sip slowly, in style, or take<br />
some snaps for social media.<br />
The owners here have an open baking<br />
room in the back where you can see<br />
them preparing the chocolates and cakes<br />
to go alongside the drinks. A display<br />
case by the door showcases these tasty<br />
morsels, everything from whisky-filled<br />
bon bons to orange confit to decorated<br />
macarons. Expect to pay 6-7,000 for a<br />
thick chocolate drink and 2-3,000 for<br />
each treat alongside, and expect it to be<br />
worth it.<br />
For those who are not such fans of<br />
chocolate, there is also the standard<br />
selection of coffee on hand here, as well<br />
as a few smoothies and a selection of<br />
flower teas.<br />
This is also just a quiet, homey place<br />
to hang out. The music is soft and<br />
unobtrusive, unlike a lot of typical<br />
cafes, and there’s the chance to hang<br />
out alongside a giant stuffed bear while<br />
you study or just enjoy your drink. Who<br />
doesn’t love that?<br />
Charlie is just around the corner from<br />
Shinhan Bank downtown. Typical hours<br />
are from 11-9 on weekdays and 1-9 on<br />
the weekend. Check them out if you’re<br />
sick of powdered chocolate and ready<br />
for the real deal!<br />
<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 25
Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />
CAFE<br />
Lovely Parrot<br />
By YOONHA KIM<br />
Have dog and cat cafes become a bit too<br />
commonplace for you? Or perhaps<br />
you’re just an avid bird lover? Well,<br />
for either situation, we’ve got just the thing. The<br />
name of the cafe is “Lovely Parrot,” and you’ll<br />
find it just down the street from Dukjin Park or<br />
Jeonju’s Bukdae area. It’s surprising to see such<br />
a unique cafe pop up outside of the capital area!<br />
At Lovely Parrot, it is easy to enjoy these birds<br />
as patrons of all ages. And how does this parrot<br />
café work? First, it’s good to know that parrots<br />
are afraid of strangers. When you get there, wash<br />
your hands, choose some beverages, and wait<br />
for about 5 to 10 minutes as they adapt. The<br />
parrots will smell a little, but it’s no worse than<br />
in most dog and cat cafes. Next, don’t be afraid<br />
of their beaks as they explore. A parrot’s beak<br />
has a function like a person’s hand. When parrots<br />
“peck” someone with their beaks, the motion is a<br />
type of exploration or investigation. We can raise<br />
our hands toward the parrots’ heads, speak with<br />
the parrots, or touch them (gently). (The café<br />
warns to never push on or pet their bodies too<br />
strongly.)<br />
In this café, we can see 40 species, not even just<br />
parrots, but many birds like common sparrows<br />
or even rare birds. You might find cockatiels,<br />
golden cherry parrots, and twin parrots, among<br />
others. Cockatiels can act especially charming<br />
toward people, and are likely to do the action<br />
people most expect from parrots – repeating.<br />
These birds follow your lead, so if someone says<br />
“Annyeonghaseyo,” the cockatiel will “parrot” it<br />
back. You’ll also have a chance to feed some of<br />
the birds that come to talk with you.<br />
Lovely Parrot is open daily from 11am to 9pm,<br />
but, as some have occasionally found it closed<br />
on a whim, you may benefit from calling ahead<br />
(010- 8582-3003). The admission, regardless of<br />
age, is 7,000 won, and this included the price<br />
of a coffee, shake, or smoothie, as well as the<br />
parrot experience itself. For more information,<br />
visit their [Korean only] internet cafe and blog at<br />
http://cafe.naver.com/lovelyparrot1004/.<br />
26
Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />
BAR<br />
Bar Cold Dawn<br />
By ANJEE DISANTO<br />
Photos by Anjee DiSanto<br />
Maybe you want to stray<br />
away from soju, or<br />
maybe you’re sick of<br />
all those sugary standard Western<br />
drinks? Or maybe you’ve just<br />
been checking out the Nambu<br />
night market and you have to<br />
escape those hordes of people?<br />
In any of these cases, we have a<br />
recommendation.<br />
Bar Cold Dawn, located in the<br />
Cheongnyeon “Youth” Mall on<br />
the second floor of Nambu market, is one of a<br />
collection of hip, relatively new hotspots there.<br />
Some in the foreigner community refer to this<br />
bar as “Potions,” mostly because of a specific<br />
characteristic – you can get drinks for takeout<br />
here inside of upside-down light bulb-shaped<br />
bottles that quite resemble<br />
magical potions.<br />
There actually is a bit of magic<br />
in this place, though. You’ll see<br />
it on first entry (if you can even<br />
get a seat) through the wall of<br />
little-known spirits and lively<br />
style of the bartender/potion<br />
master, Narwhee. But the<br />
true magic is in the drinks you<br />
receive here, and the general<br />
lack of menu.<br />
How to order: just give some instruction. Or<br />
give no instruction at all!<br />
Specify a color, or a flavor, or a<br />
characteristic. “I’d like something<br />
purple.” “I’d like something that<br />
tastes like almonds.” “I’d like<br />
something that Elsa from Frozen<br />
might drink” (an actual typical<br />
order of a local Canadian). You<br />
could also leave things up to the<br />
potion master’s whim, as she’s not<br />
likely to disappoint.<br />
This bar has a range of regulars<br />
who come here often, so on many nights you<br />
may not find a seat inside. It’s also not much of a<br />
place to take a large group, though there are takeout<br />
“potions” available for roaming around the<br />
market area. In truth, this bar is best enjoyed on<br />
a quiet night with just a companion or two, when,<br />
if it’s quiet and comfy, the<br />
bartender might even play you<br />
a song.<br />
Bar Cold Dawn is on Facebook<br />
at www.facebook.com/<br />
BarColdDawn. You’ll find this<br />
bar open – usually – from 3 to<br />
11 p.m., although, as with many<br />
places in the Cheongnyeon<br />
Mall area, the shop may be<br />
closed on a whim from time to<br />
time. Perhaps this adds to the magical mystique,<br />
though?<br />
<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 27
Forgotten Gem<br />
BAR<br />
Deepin,<br />
a Forgotten Gem<br />
By MINSEOK YI<br />
Photos by hyunseok Park<br />
In past years, this bar would never have<br />
fallen under the category of “hidden<br />
gems.” In fact, Deepin has been the<br />
most famous pub in the city of Jeonju since<br />
1997, particularly catering to the local expat<br />
crowd. In recent years, though, much of<br />
the rich expat history of this bar has gone<br />
unnoticed to newcomers, reverting it to<br />
something of a more hidden status to many.<br />
Deepin is a place of its own taste, drawing<br />
people from all over the world to share their<br />
culture and sentiment. It’s been the site of<br />
countless Halloween parties, leaving parties,<br />
concerts, murder mystery events, charity<br />
fundraisers, and simple end-of-the-night<br />
shenanigans among those in the longterm<br />
expat community.<br />
Once you step inside, the unique atmosphere<br />
which has been ingrained over 20 years,<br />
will surround you. The walls are full of<br />
international money fixed up and scribbled<br />
with messages from visitors since 1997.<br />
Reminders of events past and artwork<br />
from former expats abound, along with the<br />
scrawled chalk messages (particularly in<br />
28
the bathrooms) chronicling the merriment and<br />
debauchery of times long gone (and some more<br />
recent).<br />
As for the bar itself, often playing a Victoria’s<br />
Secret fashion show or sports match on loop<br />
on the screen. The staff are friendly enough<br />
to warrant sitting at the bar if you’re alone or<br />
in a small group. The drink menus is plentiful<br />
enough, with some more modern drinks served<br />
in hollowed out coconuts (a pricier choice) or<br />
strong, efficient drinks like long island iced teas<br />
to get you feeling social quickly.<br />
Deepin, a Jeonju original, was introduced in<br />
"Lonely Planet", one of the most well-known<br />
travel guidebooks, as a must-visit pub for its<br />
tradition and specialty. Nestled in a quiet alley off<br />
Wedding Street downtown, it’s great for a latenight<br />
visit after several other bars or an early one<br />
after shopping or food in the nearby Gaeksa or<br />
Nambu Market areas.<br />
Find Deepin online at facebook.com/deepin1997.<br />
16-16, Jeollagamyeong 4-gil, Wansan-gu, Jeonju-si,<br />
Jeollabuk-do, Korea 55038<br />
070-4063-1997<br />
<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 29
Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />
MUSEUM<br />
Luielle Hat Culture Center<br />
By ANJEE DISANTO Photos by Anjee DiSanto<br />
●<br />
Walking past the Luielle<br />
Hat Culture Center near<br />
Jeonju’s downtown, one<br />
might mistake it for only a [very<br />
stylish] hat store and café. In fact,<br />
while there is indeed a top-notch hat<br />
store (and café) below, the multi-level<br />
hat museum is much more.<br />
This location is owned by Shirley<br />
Chun, a well-known hat designer<br />
in Korea, and her husband Dr. Cho<br />
Hyun-chung, both of whom are natives of Jeonju.<br />
Chun’s brand, Luielle, is regarded as one of the<br />
best in the country and sold at well-established<br />
boutiques in Seoul and beyond.<br />
At the hat culture center, the most impressive<br />
section is the second floor, displaying hat-related<br />
art and a selection of historical pieces. Hats from<br />
school uniforms, various military regimes, and<br />
royal courts are on display, along with a number<br />
of typical Korean examples. In particular, Cho<br />
30<br />
notes that visitors<br />
should focus on the<br />
“gat,” a Korean horsehair<br />
hat that was a great<br />
symbol of personality and<br />
status in Korean history.<br />
Throughout the museum,<br />
some varieties of historical and<br />
modern hats hang on strings from<br />
the ceiling, allowing the visitor to<br />
try them on for size and take the<br />
obligatory selfies. A section is also devoted to<br />
works by Chun herself. Chun has designed hats<br />
for celebrities and high-level movie productions<br />
in the past, and some of the designs are stunning.<br />
Certain pieces feel more sculpted than sewn, in fact.<br />
On the third floor is a sort of hat-making<br />
experience center where visitors can craft their<br />
own caps, if the timing and program fits.<br />
The owners note that only a century ago, there<br />
were almost 4000 kinds of hats being used in<br />
Korea, so it’s no surprise to find the first museum<br />
of this kind here in Korea, let alone in Jeonju,<br />
one of its most traditional cities.<br />
To find the Luielle Hat Center easily, walk<br />
along the lefthand wall of Hanok’s closed-in<br />
Gyeonggijeon area and keep going for about<br />
two blocks. You’ll see the hat museum<br />
on your left. For more information, visit<br />
kr.luielle.com.
Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />
MUSEUM<br />
Jeonju Korean<br />
Herbal Medicine Center<br />
By AMANDUS BORLAND ● Photos by Stephen Noakes<br />
Jeonju’s Korean Herbal Medicine Center<br />
stands unassumingly in the center of Hanok<br />
Village. With its understated signage, it<br />
could easily pass for just another cafe.<br />
The interior is about the same. Unfortunately,<br />
waning interest in the museum's offerings have<br />
forced it to diversify its products. To remain open,<br />
it now offers regular cafe fare and hanbok rentals,<br />
in addition to its traditional programming.<br />
The exhibits that remain range from herbs<br />
infusing in apothecary-style glass wares to<br />
antique mortar and pestles, to historical texts,<br />
to antlers. For English speakers with limited<br />
knowledge of the Korean language, you can<br />
only gawk at the beauty of the artifacts. All<br />
information is in Korean.<br />
Forget the language barrier and the merchandising.<br />
You may still be underwhelmed. Fortunately, the<br />
museum still offers its experiential programming<br />
– which is totally the best part!<br />
Visitors to the museum can take an online quiz (in<br />
English or Korean) to discover their constitution.<br />
There are four distinct constitutions that make<br />
up Sasang typology, All people fall into either<br />
the Tae-Yang, Tae-Eum, So-Yang, or So-Eum<br />
categories. Your constitution is defined from<br />
birth and is based on psychological, physical, and<br />
social attributes. The typology provides an outline<br />
of diet, exercise, and medicinal herbs that help<br />
bring the body into balance. Questions on the<br />
quiz stretch from how you would describe your<br />
nose size to how you would react to criticism.<br />
The questions are fairly comprehensive and, at<br />
times, difficult to answer honestly. They get pretty<br />
probing. All in all, it was the best 15 minutes and<br />
2000₩ I have spent in a while.<br />
After the constitution quiz, the museum has<br />
personalized, herbal foot baths. The herbs are<br />
said to promote balance and circulation. They are<br />
supposed to detoxify the organs, too. Whether<br />
or not this is true, the herbal concoction smelled<br />
incredible and refreshed my feet from traipsing<br />
around the village all day. This can be done for<br />
9000₩.<br />
To complete the experience, get the boyak. It is said<br />
to increase vitality. This is a strong and bitter herbal<br />
tea. The ingredients are customized, again, for your<br />
constitution. It is very good for health. Based on the<br />
taste, I believe it. It costs around 5000₩.<br />
The museum is open every day except Monday,<br />
and gives you a glimpse into this ancient practice<br />
at a relatively cheap price.<br />
<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 31
Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />
MUSEUM<br />
Become a Fan of the<br />
Fan Museum<br />
By ANJEE DISANTO<br />
Photos by Anjee DiSanto<br />
The Hanok Village is full of niche<br />
museums, from traditional embroidery<br />
to traditional medicine and much more.<br />
There are, however, museums just beyond the<br />
village that perhaps don’t get as much love or<br />
foot traffic as they ought to. One such spot is<br />
the Jeonju Fan Museum, nestled on a corner just<br />
across the bridge from the Hanok area in Seohakdong.<br />
Huge signs atop the building make it clear that<br />
this is indeed a fan museum, but on first glance,<br />
the bottom floor might be confused as just a<br />
shop (one where not many<br />
fans seem to appear). Rest<br />
assured, upon entering,<br />
you’ll be welcomed past<br />
an array of purchasable<br />
fans to visit the historic fan<br />
collection in the museum on<br />
the second floor.<br />
Truth be told, the museum<br />
isn’t as large as one might<br />
expect, but it’s definitely<br />
worth a look. Divided<br />
into two sections, the upstairs offers a small yet<br />
varied glimpse into different styles of fans from<br />
both Korean and world history, as well as some<br />
insight into the making and ornamentation of<br />
such fans. Almost all of the explanatory text is in<br />
Korean, but for the most part, understanding this<br />
is not necessary to learn and observe from the<br />
experience.<br />
The left-hand side of the museum offers one row<br />
of fans from around the world: one full display<br />
section devoted to fans of China, one to fans of<br />
Japan, and two to fans from around the world.<br />
This half of the museum also has a row of<br />
Korean fans, divided into sections in terms of<br />
whether they are folding or non-folding style. A<br />
bulk of the fans in the museum overall seem to<br />
be from the Chosun dynasty. Beyond this, the<br />
section featuring non-folding fans varies more<br />
in age, with many models looking more antique<br />
and significantly more impressive. Some of<br />
them also come from the area between 1910 and<br />
1980, offering a unique peek at that era through<br />
portraits or advertisements adorning the fans<br />
themselves. Some are even adorned with long<br />
32
and well-preserved pheasant feathers.<br />
A collection of different kinds of handles of fans<br />
also appears here, much more intricate than the<br />
type we see today. Mainly wood, such handles<br />
featured character carvings, Buddhist themes,<br />
or simply elegant patterns. A stroll across to the<br />
other half of the museum reveals more about the<br />
importance of ornamentation. Here, the displays<br />
explain the significance of “seonchu,” or the<br />
ornaments that sometime dangle from the bottom<br />
of fan handles. Originally, those who passed the<br />
highest level of state examinations in Korea were<br />
allowed to have seonchu as ornaments. Some<br />
made theirs even fancier as a display of wealth,<br />
using gold, silver, or jewels; the museum display<br />
offers samples of these as well as of ornately<br />
carved seonchu, some of which even have tools<br />
like a compass.<br />
Besides just finished products, the museum<br />
displays a vast range of tools used for making<br />
the fans, with plenty of variation in terms of how<br />
old the items are and how crudely they’ve been<br />
constructed. Woodblocks used to imprint fan<br />
designs also appear hear alongside fan stands,<br />
boxes, sheaths. The sheaths themselves are<br />
interesting in that they show a likely difference in<br />
class or status, with some simple sheaths woven<br />
out of paper string and sap, and others finely<br />
embroidered on cloth.<br />
Lastly, you see here a small collection of black<br />
and white photographs that is nonetheless<br />
impressive, showing the mass production of fans<br />
in earlier days.<br />
All in all, a stop by the fan museum may take<br />
just 20 to 30 minutes and may not be of great<br />
interest to everyone, but the display is impressive<br />
for history lovers or for art lovers as a stop on<br />
the Seohak Art Walk (see more information<br />
in this issue). For those who are profoundly<br />
interested in fans, though, this is not the only<br />
fan-related tourist site in Jeonju: the Fan Culture<br />
Center, across the river in the Hanok Village,<br />
also displays and educates on the history of fans<br />
in Korea as well as letting visitors decorate their<br />
own (visit jeonjufan.kr).<br />
Admission to the Jeonju Fan Museum is just<br />
1000 won, with opening hours from 10 to 7 every<br />
day except Sunday. For more information, visit<br />
the website at fanmuseum.or.kr (only in Korean,<br />
for now).<br />
<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 33
Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />
ARTS<br />
Palbok Art Factory<br />
By ANJEE DISANTO<br />
Photos by Anjee DiSanto<br />
By the time you’re reading, this hidden<br />
gem will actually have vanished… at<br />
least in its original form. Fortunately,<br />
it will soon appear again in its new incarnation<br />
and is sure to remain as a “jewel” within the<br />
city landscape. Once a manufacturing center<br />
among many others in Jeonju’s Palbok-dong, it<br />
later became Palbok Art Factory, and will later in<br />
2017 become a uniquely placed public park and<br />
cultural center.<br />
Palbok Art Factory served as a lesser-known yet<br />
profoundly unique cultural zone within Jeonju<br />
over the past year. At first glance, to some, it<br />
might have seemed to be just an abandoned<br />
factory. And, well, it was. The location gained<br />
low-key Instagram fame simply for that… if one<br />
wondered into the more dilapidated of the two<br />
factory buildings, layers upon layers of 80s-era<br />
cassette tapes would crunch beneath the feet<br />
. Exit signs dangled from barely-there rooftops<br />
and plants and dust began to overtake everything.<br />
It was nonetheless a compelling site for grunge<br />
photo shoots and urban explorers alike.<br />
Meanwhile, in the more structurally stable of<br />
the factory’s buildings, something more modern<br />
was afoot. The Jeonju Cultural Foundation came<br />
into possession of this unique site and decided to<br />
develop it. First, though, they would use it in its<br />
original form, an abandoned factory, to showcase<br />
exhibitions and offer visitors a unique perspective<br />
on both art and labor history.<br />
The site’s main exhibition, held in late 2016,<br />
featured an array of well-known artists, many of<br />
whom embraced the factory’s overabundance of<br />
cassettes for installation artwork. The event also<br />
allowed a glimpse into the past – some of it dark.<br />
Representatives of the Cultural Foundation saw<br />
this as a worthwhile part of the experience. In<br />
the exhibition halls, tiny kid-sized wooden stools,<br />
some crudely padded with cardboard and packing<br />
34
tape, showed where adult workers once had to sit<br />
to work for a dozen hours on end. The windows,<br />
organizers explained, were all high and without<br />
a discernable view (to lessen “distraction”). In<br />
a partitioned area on the rooftop, where a tree<br />
poked through and a gleaming white installation<br />
art piece swayed in the breeze, hundreds of<br />
female workers had once been obliged to change<br />
in the same overly small room.<br />
But all of these conditions also led to the Art<br />
Factory becoming what it would be, and will<br />
be, in the future. Now abandoned for 25 years,<br />
the S Electronics facility, operating under the<br />
brand name Sorex, was doomed to failure in a<br />
Following a long period of abandonment,<br />
the Jeonju Cultural Foundation stepped<br />
in. Revitalization models from Incheon and<br />
elsewhere around the world led to a plan for<br />
development, and then a means to do so: 5<br />
billion won in grant money from the city and the<br />
government.<br />
And this year? In 2017, before the upcoming<br />
date of destruction and renovation in May, the<br />
Foundation held another two-month series of<br />
exhibitions in the factory, one even featuring<br />
the local foreign artist group. This series of<br />
events was well publicized and even touted as<br />
an “alternate date course” by the city, putting<br />
societal sense. The center exported cassette tapes<br />
to Turkey, Japan, and Southeast Asia, but, for<br />
one thing, cassettes were not a product with a<br />
lot of longevity for the future. (The company’s<br />
idea to switch to video tape production at the<br />
start of the 90s would pose a similar problem.)<br />
Beyond this, though, the company’s harsh labor<br />
conditions came under fire at a pivotal point in<br />
Korean history. In the late 80s, with new rights<br />
and revolutions in place in the country, the Sorex<br />
factory was part of nationwide labor strikes<br />
that led its workers to strike for 407 days. The<br />
factory, it seems, never fully recovered.<br />
the strange space and its neighborhood into the<br />
spotlight.<br />
By now, the “art factory” is gone, at least in<br />
its truest factory state. This fall, though, the<br />
location will rise again, as a park and cultural<br />
center, a place to rest in the busy factory district<br />
with exhibition halls and a café. The organizers<br />
hope to also keep some remnants of the factory’s<br />
labor-related past within – an important bit of<br />
history to keep going forward.<br />
To see the evolution of the art factory and photos<br />
of its past glory, visit its Facebook page at www.<br />
facebook.com/palbokart.<br />
<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 35
Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />
ARTS<br />
Renaissance in Seohak-dong<br />
By ANJEE DISANTO<br />
Photos by Anjee DiSanto<br />
Anyone who lived in Jeonju 10 years<br />
or more ago remembers what the<br />
Hanok Village used to be like. It was<br />
quaint, yet slightly crumbling. The cathedral<br />
and portrait halls stood proudly amongst a very<br />
antique neighborhood backdrop, and any cafes<br />
or restaurants you found were themselves hidden<br />
diamonds in an area that was beautiful but raw.<br />
Nowadays, in contrast, the village has been<br />
revitalized from edge to edge, stocked with coffee<br />
shops and food stands and filled with selfie stickwielding,<br />
hanok-wearing tourists on every street.<br />
This is no doubt fantastic for photographers and<br />
foodies, as well as for the city economy. Still, the<br />
change in the neighborhood’s character has led to<br />
searching for that more raw and quaint experience<br />
in nearby areas, like the Jaman Village and, now,<br />
Seohak-dong.<br />
Located just across the river from Hanok<br />
Village, Seohak-dong offers an experience that<br />
(at least for now) feels less commercialized, and<br />
particularly focuses on the arts. Even without<br />
any guidance, the neighborhood can be a delight.<br />
Wandering off the main street (Seohak-ro) leads<br />
one down narrow, walled alleys that may lead<br />
to murals, cafes, guesthouses, or even nothing –<br />
just colorful residential houses with old gates and<br />
overflowing flowers.<br />
If you are searching for specific art-related<br />
experiences, the city and Seohak-dong have<br />
posted a numbered “art walk” to help experience<br />
the area. Along this course, you find galleries,<br />
high-class cafes, artisans, art studios, and even a<br />
fan museum and Laotian restaurant and gallery<br />
36
(see details elsewhere in this issue). Here a few<br />
highlights of exploring the area.<br />
Near the beginning of Seohak-ro, you’ll first<br />
encounter the tasteful Seohak Art Space, a<br />
combination café, gallery, and guesthouse. The<br />
owner, Kim Seong-gyun, is herself an artist:<br />
besides her studio below the café, happy, sculpted<br />
tigers and other of her works pop up around the<br />
colorful garden and the nooks and crannies of the<br />
café. The second floor whitebox gallery offers<br />
weekly and biweekly artist exhibitions and a<br />
place to rest while exploring.<br />
Just across the way, it’s hard not to notice walls<br />
adorned with Little Prince murals. These offer<br />
just one of the many ideal selfie spots in the<br />
neighborhood, and, if you venture to the other<br />
side of the walls, you’ll find something even<br />
more picturesque. Piquenique, another café down<br />
a bright alley, sits in an enclosed courtyard with<br />
a stunning garden and open second-floor terrace<br />
for events. In Fall, small concerts will take place<br />
there, offering a great view of the neighborhood.<br />
Adjacent to the café, another newly opened<br />
building offers coffee and art classes, as well as<br />
relics of its time as an old hospital (look for the<br />
hospital door in the back garden and the sign out<br />
front).<br />
Further down the walk, there’s plenty to see, even<br />
without sitting down for a drink. A European<br />
antique shop and a wood-burning craft shop<br />
(which also turns photos into wood-based<br />
artwork) are among the highlights for those who<br />
are out to shop. For the art lovers, a few more<br />
galleries pop up including the Seohak Photo<br />
Gallery (worth the 2,000 won admission) and<br />
the small but bright Sanchae Art Gallery around<br />
the corner. A few artist studios also dot the<br />
neighborhood among residences, including the<br />
photo-worthy studio of Lee Jeok Woo.<br />
Wandering the whole way down the main street<br />
takes one all the way to the massive Center for<br />
Intangible Cultural Heritage, which offers weekly<br />
performances showcasing some of that heritage<br />
to preserve it for the public, often free.<br />
Without a doubt, this area is just in the middle<br />
of its renaissance, and now is the time to start<br />
exploring it. Guesthouses and long-term Air<br />
BNB spots are popping up down many of the<br />
alleys, well-located in terms of both scenery and<br />
proximity to the Hanok Village and the leisurely<br />
river walk. Restaurants don’t saturate the area<br />
as in the case of many other tourist-driven<br />
neighborhoods – yet. However, what you do find<br />
in terms of food offers either a very homestyle<br />
and hearty Korean meal or a refreshing taste<br />
of the world outside (such as from Little Laos,<br />
further down the Seohak stroll).<br />
With visible construction all around the area,<br />
we’ll surely soon see new hotspots pop up around<br />
this area, and along with them, more crowds.<br />
As the weather starts to get cooler in coming<br />
months, don’t take the chance to see this quiet<br />
neighborhood for granted, especially while it is<br />
still, in fact, quiet.<br />
Seohak-dong, while unfamiliar to even more<br />
foreign residents, let alone tourists, is just across a<br />
bridge from the Hanok Village area. Just look for<br />
the hanok-style bridge (also a great place to rest<br />
and escape from the heat) and take a stroll across<br />
to a whole new area, just waiting to be explored.<br />
<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 37
Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />
ARTS<br />
Gallery Red Box<br />
By ANJEE DISANTO ● Photos by Anjee DiSanto<br />
38<br />
Building houses, cafes, and anything possible from container crates has become<br />
something of a trend these days (and not just in Korea). Nonetheless, the result<br />
is often something somewhat magical. In Jeonju’s case, there are a number of<br />
cafes and stores built from container crates, but perhaps the best example of a success<br />
with this style is Gallery Red Box.<br />
Situated in front of the Samsung Cultural Center at Chonbuk National University, this<br />
new gallery is hard to miss. Several conjoined crates compose the body of the building,<br />
painted in stark, bright red just along the sidewalk.<br />
One might be surprised if stepping inside for the first time. There’s nothing industrial<br />
about it. Rather, it’s an elongated version of a pristine white-box gallery, complete<br />
with wires and track lighting for the art. A wide variety of exhibitions have been held<br />
here since the opening this year: an esteemed calligraphy artist, a textile artist, an even<br />
a group exhibition of foreign artists, sponsored by the Jeonbuk Center for International<br />
Affairs.<br />
All of these were made possible through the free use of gallery. Yes – this gallery is
free to use in two-week blocks for<br />
students or community members, just<br />
by signing up. The university’s Han<br />
Style Campus Office is in charge or<br />
this initiative, as part of beautifying<br />
the campus, and so far, it’s been<br />
a success. The small courtyard<br />
in front of the gallery hosts other<br />
smaller container carts that are used<br />
by students and locals to sell crafts,<br />
art, or whatever they like. One open<br />
crate also has a public piano, painted<br />
with images of the little prince.<br />
During lunch hours or just after work<br />
or school, this area tends to be full<br />
of people munching on snacks or<br />
slurping coffees while listening to<br />
whoever bravely plays the piano for<br />
the crowd.<br />
Gallery Red Box starts new<br />
exhibitions every second Friday, so<br />
be sure to check them out whenever<br />
possible or sign up yourself! The<br />
location is also just in front of O’s<br />
Square, another popular site to sip<br />
coffee and spot artwork… perfect for<br />
a stroll for lovers and art-lovers alike.<br />
<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 39
Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />
NATURE<br />
Ajungli Nature<br />
By ANJEE DISANTO<br />
Photos by Anjee DiSanto<br />
Experience Center<br />
Ajungli’s picturesque Nature Experience<br />
Center is hardly a “center” at all,<br />
but rather an open area of fields and<br />
photogenic backdrops to take in nature in any<br />
season. This area is located atop a hill nearby<br />
Ajung station, a train station that is now only used<br />
for rail-biking. It’s easy to see from nearby hills<br />
because of the glass-domed building just below, a<br />
nursery for trees and other plants.<br />
But, if it’s just fields, why go here? Well, exactly<br />
that. The main reason to visit here is simply<br />
that it’s bursting with flowers in key seasons, for<br />
almost as far as the eye can see. In the late spring<br />
or early summer, you’ll mainly see cornflowers,<br />
layer upon layer in blues and purples and the<br />
occasional pink. In fall, it’s an overabundance of<br />
cosmos. At that time, the fields are perhaps the<br />
most spectacular, with some sections blooming<br />
the pale purple, magenta, or white flowers,<br />
and others blooming in only brilliant orange.<br />
Either of these seasonal blooms is a must-visit<br />
time, whether for simply stopping to smell the<br />
flowers or having an epic photo shoot among the<br />
blossoms.<br />
In Fall, the fields are also lined with simple<br />
scarecrows, wearing a variety of leftover<br />
sweatshirts and the occasional hanbok for style.<br />
These combined with the plant-based sculptures<br />
of fairytale characters and the occasional<br />
wagon or traditional pavilion, help add to the<br />
scenic nature of the vistas here. The area also<br />
occasionally hosts Saturday busking events<br />
during the peak flower-viewing times.<br />
It’s common during the bloom periods to see<br />
a wide range of couples and families here,<br />
spreading out for picnics near the fields. It’s<br />
the perfect place to do so, but be aware – unlike<br />
almost anywhere in Jeonju, there’s nowhere<br />
40
to buy snacks or drinks (save for a few cans of soft drinks from a<br />
machines). You have only what you bring with you, but it’s definitely<br />
worth bringing.<br />
From the flower fields, there are a few hikes into the nearby hills, such<br />
as to an observation tower, or down to the nearby reservoir, which is<br />
a stellar view in any season. A few famous restaurants are nearby in<br />
Ajungli as well, so it’s well worth a day out.<br />
Getting here can be a bit of a haul, but it is walkable from the Ajungli<br />
train station. If not, tell a taxi to go to Jeonju-si “yang-myo-jang,” or<br />
take Bus 102 from E-Mart or the bus terminal.<br />
<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 41
Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />
NATURE<br />
The Jeonju<br />
Arboretum<br />
By SEWWHANDI CHANDRASEKARA<br />
Photos by Anjee DiSanto<br />
The Korea Expressway Corporation<br />
Arboretum (better known as Jeonju<br />
Arboretum) is located near to the Jeonju<br />
World Cup Stadium, opposite to the Honam<br />
Expressway. The Jeonju arboretum is a place for<br />
research and educational space that promotes<br />
eco-culture, where nature and human beings coexist.<br />
It’s the only arboretum in South Korea<br />
built and operated by a public corporation (the<br />
Korea Expressway Corporation). This is because<br />
the corporation built the area to restore the local<br />
nature that was lost in building its expressway in<br />
1972.<br />
The arboretum has an area of about 0.3 km2<br />
(291,795 m2). Presently, the arboretum has nearly<br />
3576 flowers and plant species, most of them<br />
perennials and native species to South Korea.<br />
The most essential function of the arboretum is<br />
to collect live plants according to purpose such as<br />
medicinal plants, oriental plants, and dye plants,<br />
42
“Multinational children enjoying the spring at the arboretum<br />
(Left to right: Sri Lankan, Nepalese and Korean)<br />
Photo Credit: Sewwandhi Chandrasekara<br />
or secure the seeds and display them in the arboretum. It<br />
also provides education on plant species for students of<br />
all ages.<br />
The first step in discovering the arboretum is to go to the<br />
ecological wetland outside the arboretum premises. The<br />
entrance to the wetland is to the left of the parking lot.<br />
There are shelters and benches to enjoy the serenity of<br />
the wetlands and their unique species, as well as freedom<br />
to stretch out on the grass.<br />
Once you have entered the arboretum itself, you will<br />
see one of the aquatic botanical gardens with a mooring<br />
circle and manmade waterfall on the right side of the<br />
main entrance. In this garden, you can see various fish<br />
species in different sizes. The children are amazed to<br />
see some fish species in this pond. Further, children can<br />
enjoy seeing the rabbits, pairs of ducks, and a peacock<br />
staying in their sheds near this aquatic botanical garden.<br />
There are two more aquatic gardens located at the rear<br />
<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 43
Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />
NATURE<br />
end of the arboretum, and these two gardens are connected with a beautiful<br />
manmade waterfall.<br />
On the left to the main entrance, a pathway leads to general arboretum<br />
and flower gardens including mugunghwa (Korean Rose) flowers and<br />
grasshopper flowers. Mugunghwa is the national flower of South Korea,<br />
which embodies eternity and inexhaustible abundance.<br />
Tulip garden<br />
Next, the herb garden is located near the mugunghwa garden. This garden<br />
includes many plant species which have the purpose of flavoring food or<br />
medicines or giving scent to perfume. These plants have strong fragrance<br />
which you can smell once you bend down toward them. But make sure<br />
not to damage the herbs. If you are interested in herbs, then also visit the<br />
herbarium which is just few meters away from the herb garden. There<br />
you can see a collection of preserved specimens and associated data for<br />
scientific studies.<br />
Inside the glass green house,<br />
where tropical plants are located<br />
The bamboo forest, endangered botanical garden, and outdoor theater<br />
are situated in between the herb garden and the herbarium. When you<br />
are passing through the bamboo forest, you can feel the cool breeze of<br />
the natural bamboo. The endangered botanical garden is a very attractive<br />
place for most of the students, because of the importance of endangered<br />
plant species. More of the endangered species are managed and preserved<br />
thoroughly in here. Local college student clubs and the general public can<br />
borrow the outdoor theater here free for the purpose of revitalizing local<br />
culture and arts events for visitors. But these events must be non-profit<br />
purposes. Visitors can enjoy painting, sculpturing, concerts, events, etc.,<br />
throughout the year in this outdoor theater.<br />
The educational promotional hall is located in the middle of the arboretum<br />
area. On the same premises there is a shelter where you can sit and learn<br />
live teaching materials just in front of you. An eye-catching art gallery is<br />
available in the promotional hall, too.<br />
To heat things up, there is a glass greenhouse located opposite the<br />
educational hall. Here, you can experience a humid tropical environment<br />
and see tropical plant species and attractive fish ponds.<br />
Fish pond inside the glass greenhouse<br />
Beyond the greenhouse and a nearby seedling house, striking landscapes<br />
44
Inside the glass greenhouse<br />
of garden flowers are exhibited at a plaza. The second Mugunghwa garden,<br />
in-house circle, hardwood and solitary forests are located to the left of the<br />
plaza, along with a picnic shelter to take a break. But remember -- there<br />
is no cafeteria inside the arboretum. For a clean environment, foods are<br />
allowed only at picnic shelters and you need to bring food by yourselves.<br />
It’s a unique experience for your children to have their meals surrounded<br />
by the calmness of the rose and tulip gardens, but keep in mind to take your<br />
left over trash with you. While picnicking nearby, there are life-size giraffe<br />
and horse sculptures built onto the lawn, and children can relish running on<br />
the soft grass around them.<br />
There are few things you have to keep in mind while visiting the arboretum.<br />
This arboretum is closed every Monday and on holidays. It is open from 9<br />
a.m. to 8 p.m. from April to October and 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. from November<br />
to March. For more information visit ex.co.kr/arboretum (Korean only).<br />
<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 45
Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />
CULTURE<br />
Ilwonsa Temple<br />
By SILAYAN CASINO<br />
Photos by Silayan Casino<br />
Korea is laden with Buddhist temples;<br />
they are plentiful. Often the temples<br />
have similar structures, two or three<br />
buildings, with one main one where the statues<br />
are and praying is done. The nature surrounding<br />
most Buddhist temples is beautiful, serene,<br />
peaceful and clean.<br />
There is one temple in Jeonju, however, which<br />
is rather different to most others you may have<br />
seen. This temple is called Ilwonsa. It is hidden<br />
among the hills above the Hyoja graveyard and<br />
belongs to the Taegojong order of Buddhism, the<br />
second largest order of Korean Buddhism (with<br />
around 3100 temples). What makes this order of<br />
Buddhism most distinct is that priests of the order<br />
can marry (while nuns cannot). Still, in most<br />
mountain temples like Ilwonsa, the monks remain<br />
unmarried. This temple also served as home to a<br />
famous monk, Jin Gong.<br />
Leading to the temple is a dirt road, not suitable<br />
for all cars. It’s a bit of a hike going up, and about<br />
10 minutes walking down. There is a parking area<br />
at the foot of the hill leading up to the temple,<br />
and on special days, such as Buddha’s Birthday,<br />
there may be one or two vehicles giving rides to<br />
temple visitors who may be elderly or physically<br />
challenged climbing up the hill.<br />
On Buddha’s Birthday itself, most temples have<br />
hung up many strings of lanterns to display all<br />
around the temple area. These are symbols of<br />
temple members’ devotion to Buddha, their<br />
god. They donate money to have a lantern hung<br />
up with a tag showing their name. Ilwonsa is<br />
no different. However, what is striking about<br />
Ilwonsa in even the everyday sense is the number<br />
of statues. All in all, this temple boasts more than<br />
12,000 statues.<br />
Walking through the gate, there is a small table<br />
46
with a food offering. To the right of the gate,<br />
there are several statues behind bars. To the left of<br />
the gate, a little ways in, there is a kind of “statue<br />
garden,” a big statue of Buddha and various other<br />
figures. The garden extends to other parts of the<br />
temple area, with some parts yet unused, allowing<br />
for more statues to be placed. The statues have<br />
small plaques with the name of the believers who<br />
donated them, or for whom they were donated.<br />
Even before a child is born, their family could<br />
dedicate a statue to them. This person could then<br />
go to their statue and pray there, asking for blessings<br />
for their exam or job interview, for example.<br />
There are stairs leading up the hill and statues<br />
on either side of the staircase, as well as smaller<br />
temples because there is more to look at and see.<br />
Observing what visitors do on entering this<br />
temple, one could see people using a small dipper<br />
to pour water over a smaller Buddha statue,<br />
fronted by flowers, followed by bowing from<br />
the ground up three times. They then bow to<br />
other statues in the same way. People come and go,<br />
paying their respects, greeting the Buddha. Like<br />
many such indoor places, shoes are left at the door.<br />
Ilwonsa is 20-30 years old and has a membership<br />
of about 500 patrons. As a local visitor explained,<br />
many have individual statues to which they pray.<br />
This would explain the unusually large number of<br />
statues in the temple area.<br />
The temple hours are 9 am – 6 pm. All visitors<br />
areas of statues on one side, and a kitchen with a<br />
tent for eating on the other. Coming down from<br />
the temple on the slope, not stairs, you’ll notice<br />
several statues even colored black. All the others<br />
are a kind of gray stone color. One area houses<br />
some statues in glass cases, with the remaining<br />
statues somewhat clustered… an interesting<br />
setup for those familiar with the typical Korean<br />
temples. It seems more attractive than other<br />
are welcome. The temple can be accessed by<br />
those without cars via a short hike up Hwangbang<br />
Mountain, using a trail through the Hyoja<br />
cemetery.<br />
Its distinct aesthetic and overabundance of<br />
Buddhist statues make Ilwonsa either just a<br />
mystifying hike or a photographic dream, so be<br />
sure to bring your sense of wonder as well as<br />
your camera to enjoy the site at its best.<br />
<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 47
Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />
FICTION<br />
As American as Avocado<br />
By BEN BRAINERD<br />
It’s staring at me. It doesn’t actually have<br />
eyes, but somehow it’s still staring at me.<br />
Just sitting there. Staring. Like it's somehow<br />
going to convince me to pick it up through sheer<br />
awkwardness.<br />
“Dooooo iiiit,” it croons. For reasons that shall<br />
be forever unknown the voice in my head sounds<br />
like the love child of James Earl Jones and Isaac<br />
Hayes.<br />
“No. I hate you.” The old lady perusing the<br />
oranges looks at me. Oops. Probably better if I<br />
don’t have my crazy-person conversation with an<br />
inanimate object out loud.<br />
“But I’m delicious!”<br />
“No, actually you’re not.”<br />
“I’m a super-food!”<br />
“No, you're hipster food. There is, in fact, a<br />
difference between the two. Plus you look like<br />
an alien’s testicle.” I resist the urge to take a pair<br />
of them and dangle them by my crotch. I have<br />
the same urge every time I see them at a store. I<br />
haven't succumbed. Yet.<br />
“I’m versatile! You can make so many different<br />
things with me!”<br />
“I’m sure I could. If, you know, I don't even cook!<br />
I can light spaghetti on fire. I don’t know why I’m<br />
even talking to you… Er, looking at you.”<br />
I turn to leave and almost run over oranges-lady.<br />
“You like avocado?” She smiles at me, and I feel<br />
that grandmotherliness that the old ladies here can<br />
turn on and off like a light switch. “Very good!<br />
Rare in Korea. You like?”<br />
“Yes. Yes I do.” No. No I don’t. Not even a little<br />
bit. But I'm pretty sure this lady doesn't have<br />
enough English for me to unload my true feelings<br />
about the avocados. She certainly doesn’t have<br />
the time. Plus I'd look (even more) like a crazy<br />
person if I tried to explain it. So even though I’m<br />
now pretty much obligated to buy one, it’s just<br />
easier to say “Yes.”<br />
I don’t hate avocados. I think they’re weird<br />
looking and they taste funny. And, crazy internal<br />
monologues aside, I really do think they might be<br />
sentient, and quite probably alien in origin. But I<br />
don’t hate them.<br />
I can’t tell the nice lady about the creeping sense<br />
of guilt the avocado makes me feel. People<br />
talk about America exporting its culture, and<br />
sometimes it seems like it’s the worst parts of that<br />
culture that get boxed up and shipped overseas.<br />
Michael Bay and 14 more Transformers movies.<br />
Skinny jeans. Artisanal anything. Hipsters. I<br />
feel like I should apologize for the fact that the<br />
hipsters, with their odd marketing prowess, have<br />
contaminated traditional culture with their talk of<br />
super-foods and their general… hipster-ness.<br />
If I could, I would tell her that this avocado is<br />
a symbol for all the things I didn’t expect when<br />
I moved to Korea. That I thought I was leaving<br />
behind all the parts of America that I can’t stand.<br />
48
Starbucks. Celebrities and reality TV. Hipster<br />
food…<br />
Ok, I didn’t really think I was going to escape<br />
Starbucks. I’m not that optimistic. I mean, they<br />
have a Starbucks in Antarctica, there's gonna be a<br />
few dozen in Seoul.<br />
I expected literally everything to be different. A<br />
whole new world. Different culture and all that.<br />
And things are different, don't get me wrong.<br />
Every day I go out and discover something new<br />
and awesome. A cool new restaurant. A facet of<br />
Korean culture that was previously unknown to<br />
me. A cool looking house. An oddly specific shop<br />
selling something so niche that I’m amazed it<br />
warrants its own storefront. I swear on a stack of<br />
bibles I found a shop selling doll legs in the back<br />
corner of a market.<br />
But so many of the things I thought would be<br />
different… aren’t. Starbucks is everywhere. If<br />
there’s not a Starbucks within arm's reach there's<br />
almost certainly another giant chain coffee shop<br />
for you to slake your caffiene demon. Cebrity<br />
culture is insane here. But it’s easier to ignore<br />
because I don’t speak the language or watch TV.<br />
Hipster stuff, though…<br />
But it’s still different. Very different. The<br />
thing they don't tell you about that sheer sea of<br />
differences is that it makes those things that have<br />
stayed the same all the more noticeable. Yes,<br />
somehow avocados have become my culture<br />
shock totem.<br />
I wish I could tell her that, against all rhyme or<br />
reason, avocados make me homesick. Again, not<br />
because I like them, but because they’re familiar.<br />
The crazy-person conversations with the hipster<br />
food were a staple of my grocery runs back home.<br />
I’d argue with the avocados, get mocked by their<br />
buddies kale and quinoa. PBR would heckle<br />
me in the beer aisle. It’s insane, but no one has<br />
recently accused me of sanity. I’ve tried forming<br />
a relationship with some of the crazy ramen<br />
mascots, but it’s tough because we don’t speak<br />
the same language.<br />
Yes, the fantasy personas of food products that<br />
live inside my head speak a different language.<br />
See “no one has accused me of sanity”. I think<br />
it would be more insane if the Korean ramen<br />
mascots spoke English.<br />
So, yeah. The avocado that is staring at me is the<br />
living embodiment of everything that’s wrong<br />
with me, and everything that has gone wrong<br />
(and right!) with my Korean adventure. But<br />
I can’t tell the nice old lady this, because it is<br />
insane, and I've learned that I need to keep the<br />
insanity bottled up inside. Plus the whole “she<br />
doesn’t speak enough English” thing. Actually…<br />
I probably could just unload. She'd just smile and<br />
nod, like Koreans tend to do when I go outside<br />
their English comfort zone. It might be cathartic<br />
and...<br />
She’s looking at me funny again. How long have<br />
I been staring off into the distance this time?<br />
I throw my nemesis in my basket. Yeah, I like<br />
avocados. For as long as it takes to get home<br />
and shove it in the deepest, darkest corner of the<br />
fridge. Which means I’ll be having crazy-person<br />
conversations in my kitchen for the foreseeable<br />
future, talking to a food product I can’t stand as<br />
it shrivels and begins to look even more like an<br />
alien generative organ.<br />
This… This actually makes me happy. Maybe<br />
I’ll buy some googly eyes to stick on it. Might as<br />
well go all in on the insanity thing.<br />
<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 49
Every region has its own local dialect. Embracing it is to embrace the local<br />
people, language, and culture in a warm and useful way. This month’s<br />
featured word used in the North Jeolla province is…..<br />
This is a word that can readily be used by anyone learning Korean at any<br />
level. It means 그래요 in standard Korean and can be used in much<br />
the same way. 그렇다, meaning to be that way, is a word that relies<br />
on the context of a conversation, and thus is utilized as a response<br />
to something already said.<br />
A : “오늘 못 갈 것 같아” / I don’t think that I will be able to go today<br />
B : “어, 그려?” / oh really? [Is it really that way?]<br />
This expression I used often when the user wants to express indifference<br />
or a slight feeling of being annoyed.<br />
A : “오늘 짜장면 먹을래?” / “Would you like to eat Jjajangmyeon today?”<br />
B : “어 그려” / “hm sure (why not)” [expressing indifference]<br />
A : “아니, 다른 거 먹자” / “nevermind.. Let’s eat something else”<br />
B : “그려, 빨리 먹으러 가자” / “fine, let’s just go eat” [slightly annoyed]<br />
Mastering this expression and using it in Jeollabukdo is bound to bring<br />
smiles and lighten up any conversation. This expression can also be used<br />
negatively by adding 안. Make sure to not get it confused with<br />
그리다 (그림을 그려요), the verb for drawing.
전라북도국제교류센터<br />
Jeollabuk-do Center for International Affairs<br />
2017 외국인 커뮤니티 지원사업 2017 外 国 人 社 区 援 助 业 务<br />
전라북도국제교류센터에서는 외국인 커뮤니티 활동을 활성화<br />
하고 도민과의 상호교류 및 우호증진을 위해 「전라북도 외국인<br />
커뮤니티 지원 사업」을 다음과 같이 시행하고자 공고합니다.<br />
1. 지원자격 : <strong>전북</strong>을 근거지로 두고 친목도모, 정보교환, 상호교류<br />
등 외국인으로 구성된 커뮤니티(모임)<br />
- 문화, 예술, 체육, 전시, 축제, 교육, 회의 관련 분야<br />
- 외국인의 생활편의 증진, 커뮤니티 활성화 등을 위한 분야<br />
- 2017년 상반기 중 개최가 가능한 행사<br />
2. 지원 범위<br />
- 재정지원 : ~최대 100만원 지원(현금지원 불가)<br />
3. 신청방법<br />
- 신청 및 모집기간 : 2017. 7. 5.(수) ~ 27(목)<br />
- 신청방법 : 전라북도국제교류센터 홈페이지 양식 다운로드 및<br />
작성→이메일 제출<br />
- 제출서류 : 커뮤니티 등록신청서, 커뮤니티지원금 지원서, 사업<br />
계획서<br />
▣ 문의처<br />
-전라북도국제교류센터 교류협력팀 T.063-214-5604<br />
Dự án hỗ trợ cộng đồng người<br />
nước ngoài năm 2017<br />
Nhằm tiếp sức cho cộng đồng người nước ngoài sinh<br />
sống tại Jeonbuk, hợp tác trao đổi để hiểu thêm về văn<br />
hóa các nước, nên Trung tâm hợp tác quốc tế tỉnh<br />
Jeollabukdo xin thông báo kế hoạch hỗ trợ cho cộng<br />
đồng người nước ngoài năm 2017 và rất mong nhận<br />
được sự tham gia của cộng đồng người nước ngoài tại<br />
tỉnh.<br />
1. Đối tượng hỗ trợ<br />
Nhóm cộng đồng người nước ngoài ở tỉnh Jeonbuk trên 10<br />
thành viên tổ chức 1 trong các sự kiện nhằm thúc đẩy tình<br />
hữu nghị, hướng tới sự thân thiện, trao đổi lẫn nhau, trao đổi<br />
thông tin,... như sau<br />
- Lĩnh vực văn hóa, nghệ thuật, thể dục thể thao, triển lãm,<br />
lễ hội, giáo dục, hội nghị.<br />
- Lĩnh vực liện quan đến gắn kêt cộng đồng, cải thiện đời<br />
sống tinh thần người nước ngoài<br />
- Sự kiện được tổ chức trong 6 tháng đầu năm<br />
2. Phạm vi hỗ trợ<br />
- Hỗ trợ về tài chính : ~ Hỗ trợ tối đa 1,000,000won (không hỗ trợ<br />
tiền mặt).<br />
3. Phương pháp đăng ký<br />
- Thời gian đăng ký : 2017. 7. 5 ~ 7. 27<br />
- Phương pháp đăng ký : Tải đơn xin đăng ký về và soạn<br />
thảo→Nộp đơn qua email (nlb1234@jbcia.or.kr)<br />
- Hồ sơ : Đơn xin, bản kế hoạch sự kiện<br />
▣ Địa chỉ liên lạc<br />
- Trung tâm hợp tác quốc tế Jeollabukdo - Nhóm Hợp tác<br />
giao lưu Tel.063-214-5604<br />
2017 外 国 人 社 区 援 助 业 务 为 了 外 国 人 社 区 活 动 的 活 性 化 ,<br />
加 强 全 北 市 民 与 外 国 人 之 间 的 相 互 交 流 , 增 进 友 谊 ,<br />
为 此 全 罗 北 道 国 际 交 流 中 心 支 援 外 国 人 的 社 区 活 动 ,<br />
通 知 如 下 ; 欢 迎 前 来 申 请<br />
1. 援 助 资 格 : 为 了 亲 密 相 处 , 相 互 交 流 , 在 全 罗 北 道 组 成 的 外 国<br />
人 社 区 ( 聚 会 )<br />
- 文 化 , 艺 术 , 体 育 , 展 览 , 教 育 , 会 议 等 有 关 活 动<br />
- 便 利 外 国 人 的 生 活 , 社 区 的 活 性 化<br />
- 2017 下 旬 可 以 举 行 的 活 动<br />
2. 援 助 范 围<br />
- 财 政 援 助 : ~ 最 高 100 万 元 可 以 援 助<br />
以 财 政 援 助 的 原 则 , 不 可 以 现 金 援 助<br />
3. 申 请 方 法<br />
- 申 请 日 期 : 2017. 7. 5 ~ 07. 27<br />
- 申 请 方 法 : 下 载 申 请 书 后 请 记 述 → 请 在 此 处 提 交<br />
- 提 交 文 件 : 申 请 书 , 活 动 计 划 书<br />
▣ 咨 询 电 话<br />
- 全 罗 北 道 国 际 交 流 中 心 交 流 合 作 组 T.063-214-5604<br />
Foreign Community<br />
Supporting Service 2017<br />
The <strong>JB</strong>CIA<br />
is currently looking to give financial assistance to any sort of<br />
hobby or activity group in the region that is composed mostly of<br />
foreign residents.<br />
1. Goal<br />
The goal of this program is to enhance the wellbeing of foreign<br />
residents while also promoting mutual exchange and friendship<br />
with local residents<br />
2. support Range<br />
Financial aid : Maximum 1,000,000 won<br />
(We do not support in cash)<br />
3. Application process<br />
- Application and recruitment period : 2017. 7. 5.(Wed.) ~ 27(Thu)<br />
- Method : Download the application(homepage) → submit by<br />
email<br />
- The documents for submission : Foreign Community Registration<br />
Application, Foreign Community assistance fund application,<br />
Business Plan<br />
▣ Contact<br />
- International Exchange and Cooperation team of <strong>JB</strong>CIA.<br />
T. 063-214-5604<br />
www.jbcia.or.kr / www.facebook.com/jbcia151001 / dunfailu@jbcia.or.kr / 063-214-5604