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<strong>JB</strong> <strong>Life</strong> July 2017 Volume 7 ISSN# 2508-1284<br />

전라북도국제교류센터<br />

Jeollabuk-do Center for International Affairs<br />

Jeollabuk-do<br />

Global Living<br />

This Issue: JeonJu


Jeollabuk-do Global Living<br />

Summer 2017 / Issue #7<br />

전라북도국제교류센터<br />

Jeollabuk-do Center for International Affairs<br />

Jeonbuk <strong>Life</strong> is a quarterly project of the Jeollabuk-do<br />

Center for International Affairs. Our goal is to spread news<br />

to Jeollabuk-do's international community, as well as to<br />

carry news of Jeonbuk throghout Korea and abroad.<br />

This magazine publishes once per season.<br />

To get involved, e-mail jeonbuklife@gmail.com<br />

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10<br />

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27<br />

30<br />

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48<br />

50<br />

51<br />

INTRODUCE <strong>JB</strong>CIA<br />

Major Bussiness of <strong>JB</strong>CIA<br />

HIDDEN GEMS OF JEONJU<br />

Speacial Feature<br />

CULTURE<br />

The Last Heir to Chosun<br />

LOCAL FOOD<br />

Gilsonne<br />

Dadam<br />

Clam Flower World<br />

Gamroheon<br />

GLOBAL FOOD<br />

Song's Sweet House<br />

A Taste of South-east Asia at LITTLE LAOS<br />

Grappa Tapas<br />

CAFE<br />

“Charlie” the Chocolate Cafe<br />

Lovely Parrot<br />

BAR<br />

Bar Cold Dawn<br />

Deepin, a Forgotten Gem<br />

MUSEUM<br />

Luielle Hat Culture Center<br />

Jeonju Korean Herbal Medicine Center<br />

Become a Fan of the Fan Museum<br />

ARTS<br />

Palbok Art Factory<br />

Renaissance in Seohak-dong<br />

Gallery Red Box<br />

NATURE<br />

Ajungli Nature Experience Center<br />

The Jeonju Arboretum<br />

CULTURE<br />

Ilwonsa Temple<br />

FICTION<br />

As American as Avocado<br />

GRAPHIC ILLUSTRATION<br />

“The Future is Dark”<br />

JEOLLA DIALECT<br />

Jeonbuk <strong>Life</strong> Editorial Staff:<br />

● ANJEE DISANTO, U.S.A<br />

● MINSEOK YI, KOREA<br />

Jeonbuk <strong>Life</strong> Writers & Artists:<br />

● BONNIE CUNNINGHAM<br />

● MIRIAM LEE<br />

● BEN BRAINERD<br />

● AXEL LEMUS<br />

● AMANDUS BORLAND<br />

● SILAYAN CASINO<br />

● SANCHEON LEE<br />

● STEPHEN NOAKES<br />

● SEWWHANDI CHANDRASEKARA<br />

● YOONHA KIM<br />

Jeollabuk-do’s International Magazine July 2017, Issue #7<br />

Registration No. ISSN : 2508-1284<br />

<strong>JB</strong> LIFE is published by the <strong>JB</strong>CIA (Jeonbuk Center for International Affairs)<br />

전라북도국제교류센터<br />

164 Palgwajeong-ro, Deokjin-gu, Jeonju, Jeollabuk-do, Korea<br />

Tel:(+82)63-214-5601~6 Fax:(+82)63-214-5608


INTORDUCE <strong>JB</strong>CIA<br />

Major Bussiness of <strong>JB</strong>CIA<br />

Beating the heat with the<br />

Written By AXEL LEMUS<br />

Despite its short existence, the Jeollabukdo<br />

Center for International Affairs keeps<br />

running programs geared towards creating<br />

links between locals, international residents, and the<br />

world. Here’s a look at what the <strong>JB</strong>CIA has been up<br />

to during the summer of 2017. For more information<br />

and details on how to participate in the center’s<br />

activities, please keep an eye on the <strong>JB</strong>CIA’s<br />

website at jbcia.or.kr.<br />

13th. There will also be a film crew accompanying<br />

the volunteers to capture their journey, so make sure<br />

not to miss the documentary when it comes out!<br />

Visiting Lectures on International<br />

Exchange<br />

2017 Summer Overseas Volunteers<br />

Program: Vietnam<br />

The <strong>JB</strong>CIA is currently collaborating with the<br />

Jimmy Carter School of International Studies<br />

(JIS) at Chonbuk National University to help send<br />

a group of university students and Jeollabuk-do<br />

citizens to volunteer in Vietnam’s Dak Lak province.<br />

The goal of this program is not only to strengthen<br />

the volunteers’ global capabilities, but also to leave<br />

a positive impact on a rural village with distinctly<br />

Korean characteristics. The group is set to leave for<br />

Vietnam on August 5th and return to Korea on the<br />

Young people throughout the world will become<br />

tomorrow’s future leaders and key decision makers.<br />

It is for this reason that the <strong>JB</strong>CIA provides the<br />

public, especially the younger generations, with<br />

visiting lectures on international topics such as<br />

diplomacy and cultural diversity. The center<br />

visited Bongseo Elementary School in Wanju<br />

earlier this month to host a lecture by ex-Korean<br />

diplomat Juhyeon Baek. The eager elementary<br />

schoolers gained useful insight on what it takes to<br />

be a diplomat and what the job involves. Through<br />

hosting these types of lectures, the center aims to<br />

help cultivate globally-minded talent necessary for<br />

Jeollabuk-do’s future.<br />

<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 3


INTRODUCE <strong>JB</strong>CIA<br />

KF-<strong>JB</strong>CIA Theme Field Trip<br />

On Friday June 30th, the <strong>JB</strong>CIA collaborated<br />

alongside the Korea Foundation (KF) to give a group<br />

of foreigners residing in Seoul the opportunity to<br />

experience Jeonju. While in Jeonju, the group had a<br />

chance to experience what Jeonju is best known for:<br />

superb Korean food and the city’s Hanok Village.<br />

Through a guided tour of Hanok Village, eating<br />

at some of the city’s well-renowned restaurants,<br />

parading in beautiful hanboks, and partaking in<br />

other cultural activities, the participants felt as if<br />

they were close friends meeting to have a good<br />

time, rather than strangers who had met each other<br />

the night before. As a city famous for its traditional<br />

cultural assets, Jeonju is a must-see destination for<br />

domestic and foreign tourists alike. The <strong>JB</strong>CIA<br />

seeks not only to promote these attractive aspects of<br />

Jeollabuk-do, but also to reassure foreigner visitors<br />

that they will make wonderful memories during<br />

their stay. The overwhelmingly positive responses<br />

from applicants will pave the way for similar<br />

programs in the future.<br />

Jeonbuk-Tacoma Youth Exchange<br />

Camp<br />

The <strong>JB</strong>CIA is working together with the city of<br />

Tacoma to promote mutual cultural and language<br />

exchange between the youth of each city through a<br />

summer camp program. High school students from<br />

Tacoma, Washington will spend a total of twelve<br />

days in Jeollabuk-do as they participate in activities<br />

with their Korean counterparts (camping, Korean<br />

cultural activities, etc). The center aims to help<br />

young participants take the lead in international<br />

exchanges between ordinary people.<br />

4


2017 Jeollabuk-do International<br />

Exchange Day<br />

After last year’s success, the <strong>JB</strong>CIA is getting ready<br />

for the second annual Jeollabukdo International<br />

Exchange Day on Saturday, September 23rd. This<br />

year the festival will be held on the grounds of the<br />

Jeollabuk-do provincial government building (across<br />

the street from Sinsigaji) and its main theme will<br />

focus around making harmony between Korean<br />

and foreign residents. There will be many activities<br />

that anyone, regardless of age or nationality, can<br />

enjoy. Make sure not to miss the live performances,<br />

experience booths by foreign embassies, lectures on<br />

other countries, and many of the other activities at<br />

this year’s Jeollabuk-do International Exchange Day!<br />

Jeonbuk International Student<br />

Ambassadors<br />

The third round of the Jeonbuk International<br />

Student Ambassadors recently concluded early this<br />

June. Through financial support from the <strong>JB</strong>CIA,<br />

international students in Jeollabuk-do were able<br />

to travel all around the region while promoting on<br />

social media its many tourist destinations, foods,<br />

festivals, and other cultural assets. The PR teams<br />

decided whether they would promote the region<br />

through video or pictures, and the teams were<br />

composed of students from China, Mongolia, Latin<br />

American, and Japan. International students in<br />

the region, make sure not to miss your chance to<br />

participate this fall!<br />

in the region that is composed mostly of foreign<br />

residents. The goal of this program is to enhance the<br />

wellbeing of foreign residents while also promoting<br />

mutual exchange and friendship with local residents.<br />

The financial assistance can be up to 1,000,000 won<br />

but it is not provided in cash. For details on how to<br />

apply, make sure to check the announcement board<br />

on the <strong>JB</strong>CIA’s website or call at 063-214-5604.<br />

JISU Supporters Visit Seoul<br />

The official support group of the <strong>JB</strong>CIA, JISU,<br />

went to Insandong in Seoul on May 27th to promote<br />

Jeollabuk-do to foreign tourists. Many of the<br />

passersby were able to get a taste of Jeollabuk-do<br />

through sampling regional food items such as Imsil<br />

cheese and experience booths that replicate famous<br />

tourist destinations. Foreign visitors were not the<br />

only ones that got in on the fun, JISU supporters<br />

also got to participate in the flash mob, food tasting,<br />

and other activities.<br />

The center is always looking for passionate<br />

supporters who love Jeollabuk-do. Those interested<br />

can apply in the beginning of the year in various<br />

positions (planning, homestay, foreign language,<br />

counselling, ect). Recruitment is on-going year<br />

round for positions short in staff. Make sure to not<br />

miss your chance to apply!<br />

Foreign Community Support<br />

Service 2017<br />

The <strong>JB</strong>CIA is currently looking to give financial<br />

assistance to any sort of hobby or activity group<br />

<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 5


Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />

SPEACIAL FEATURE<br />

6


hile <strong>JB</strong> <strong>Life</strong> typically profiles sites throughout Jeonbuk province in each issue, for the next two issues<br />

we’re taking the opportunity to feature “Hidden Gems,” first from within Jeonbuk’s capital, Jeonju,<br />

and then from outside of it.<br />

This issue focuses on Jeonju alone, offering up 22 “gems” for you to discover in a city steeped in both tradition<br />

and modernity. These gems can encompass a lot of things. One is a person – Yi Seok, a jewel of Jeonju and the<br />

last heir to the fallen Chosun dynasty. Some are local Korean foodie finds, such as haemultang and the pumpkinbased<br />

goodness of Dadam, a treasured Jeonju restaurant. Others encompass tourist sites, cultural spots, bars,<br />

cafes, and foreign cuisines, almost all lesser-known but all worth the visit.<br />

Jeonju is ever-expanding, yet retains an overflowing trove of history and traditional culture. In such a city, it’s<br />

easy to overlook treasures of both the old and new variety, even when they are right under your nose from day to<br />

day. Our hope is to spread some of the knowledge and increase the awareness of some of Jeonju’s lesser-known<br />

hits.<br />

In the next issue, we’ll focus on “hidden gems” of the province, beyond the Jeonju city limits, probing into the<br />

smaller cities and counties. Jeonbuk has a lot to offer in both the metropolitan and rural areas, so let’s take some<br />

time to explore it together!<br />

<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 7


Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />

CULTURE<br />

The Last Heir to Chosun<br />

By ANJEE DISANTO<br />

Photos by Anjee DiSanto<br />

When Yi Seok walks into a room, it’s<br />

hard not to focus on him. It’s not<br />

just the characteristic bright yellow<br />

hanbok shirt that he wears so proudly. More than<br />

that, it’s perhaps the joy in his face, the smile of<br />

someone who is “77 going on 49” (in his own<br />

words).<br />

But many people, even Koreans, don’t know<br />

much about him or his history – the country’s<br />

history. This lack of historical connection is<br />

something Yi laments, and takes it upon himself<br />

to correct whenever possible.<br />

Why?<br />

Because Yi Seok is the last remaining heir to the<br />

Chosun Dynasty.<br />

Of course, the Chosun Dynasty is no more, but<br />

even after its demise it left an abundant lineage.<br />

Emperor Sunjong was the last official ruler in the<br />

line, serving until 1910. Yi Seok doesn’t descend<br />

directly from this former emperor, but from one<br />

of his brothers. To give an idea of the scale of the<br />

family in general, Lee’s own father boasted 13<br />

sons and 20 daughters to 14 wives (Yi was the 11 th<br />

among those).<br />

Despite all of the heirs, now it is Yi Seok is left.<br />

If you sit and chat with him in Seung-gwang-jae,<br />

the house Jeonju city built for him 15 years ago, it<br />

seems he’s found a lifestyle suitable for a wouldbe<br />

king. He talks of his golf game and eating<br />

soups, sometimes samgyeopsal. Drinks highclass<br />

tea from China across from a portrait of his<br />

grandfather, Emperor Gojung.<br />

But it wasn’t always so.<br />

Yi Seok’s path was a rocky one, perhaps<br />

unexpected of a royal heir. He became a singer<br />

in 1960, at age 21. He was also a DJ for a year<br />

and a half and memorized the lyrics to hundreds<br />

of songs. At that time, conditions in Korea were<br />

poor, and he did whatever he could.<br />

Yi’s life as a singer progressed when he saw an<br />

ad in the newspaper to audition as a singer for<br />

American troops in Korea. He sang “Tonight”<br />

from West Side Story, to a tremendous reaction.<br />

The representatives called him a mixture of Perry<br />

Como and Andy Williams, unlike any male voice<br />

in Korea. Two years later, he’d be singing and<br />

emceeing at a hotel and getting kissed on the<br />

cheek by Louis Armstrong (a memorable moment<br />

for Yi Seok).<br />

8


Some people remember him for these times, as<br />

a singer, particularly for a song called “Pigeon<br />

House” that became popular at weddings.<br />

Unfortunately, it wasn’t always so harmonious<br />

for him. In the late 60s, Yi Seok went to Vietnam<br />

with the Tiger Division and was wounded. In<br />

1969, his mother died, and he supported four<br />

brothers with his singing career. Nine times, he<br />

says, he attempted suicide.<br />

Yi Seok lived in one of the palaces until 1979,<br />

when revolution took over. The dictator kicked<br />

them out, and on December 9 th , he left for<br />

America. At that time, he told everyone he would<br />

never come back to Korea.<br />

Of course, he would later come back, but Yi’s<br />

time in the U.S. was wild and formative. He talks<br />

of singing songs for Chinese gang bosses at a<br />

restaurant in San Francisco. A Spanish major in<br />

university, he also boasts of avoiding a mugging<br />

by joking in Spanish to a Latino assailant.<br />

But Yi Seok returns, and part of it, he says, is<br />

about history.<br />

“Korean people almost forget history,” Lee notes.<br />

He wants people to remember the royal line,<br />

the history of occupation, and everything<br />

associated. He tells of how Japanese tried to<br />

water down the Korean royal line by marrying<br />

its men off to Japanese women. He laments<br />

how his older brother, who actively engaged in<br />

Korea’s liberation, was killed by atomic bomb in<br />

Hiroshima. He notes how a power struggle with<br />

the Andong Kim clan nearly wiped out the Yi<br />

family, which has its original roots in Jeonju.<br />

Nowadays, he lectures on such topics to Korean<br />

and foreigners alike, urging them to remember<br />

history.<br />

“The new generation they don’t study about<br />

history,” he says. “That’s the problem.”<br />

But in the present, at least, life is once again<br />

not so bad for Yi Seok. The grounds of Seunggwang-jae<br />

have served as a guest house of sorts,<br />

with tourists coming through and his wife serving<br />

them her special homemade noodles.<br />

Every morning he speed walks to the nearby<br />

Omokdae landmark – a luxury of not being<br />

royalty, he says. When young, in the palaces,<br />

servants would never let him run or even hurry. In<br />

fact, at a Sports Day once, his vice principal had<br />

to do his running for him.<br />

He keeps in touch with his remaining sisters,<br />

who visited him this year in Jeonju, as well as his<br />

daughters back in America, aged 46 and 37. “You<br />

are the king,” he tells them, as there are no male<br />

heirs to carry on the assumed lineage.<br />

And while his daughters urge him to come back to<br />

the U.S. to live, Yi Seok refuses.<br />

“This is my place until I die,” he proudly affirms.<br />

And his singing? Surprisingly, his voice<br />

remains. A friend asked him why his voice was<br />

still so strong at his age. He told him that had<br />

taken some chestnuts from the secret garden at<br />

Changdeokgung Palace, allowing his voice to stay<br />

strong and sweet.<br />

In the end, Yi Seok may carry with him a lot of<br />

“legends,” but more importantly, he carries with<br />

him an undeniable history -- Korea’s history.<br />

<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 9


Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />

LOCAL FOOD<br />

Gilsonne<br />

By SANCHEON LEE<br />

10


Throughout the world, people cook and<br />

eat chicken in different ways, buy Korea<br />

is especially well known for its magical<br />

methods of preparing chicken. Have you heard<br />

dakbokkeumtang, or braised spicy chicken? Known<br />

by its alternate name of dalkdoritang to some, this<br />

dish consists of marinated chicken pieces and is<br />

boiled in a spicy broth. Braised spicy chicken is<br />

something that most Koreans enjoy eating from time<br />

to time, and one of the most famous restaurants for<br />

this particular dish is in the Old Gate area of Chonbuk<br />

National University, called Gilsonne.<br />

The appearance of the restaurant is unique, with its<br />

clay face and straw ornamentation, and looks similar<br />

to a cabin in the woods. Some local foreigners who<br />

do know this spot even have their own names for it<br />

based on its appearance, such as “Witch’s Cauldron.”<br />

As you make your way into the restaurant, though,<br />

the dimmed lights give it a calm atmosphere.<br />

Gilsonne is a “bachelor's pub.” What is the bachelor’s<br />

pub? That is a pub where university students drink<br />

after the class. But beyond drinking, this restaurant<br />

is famous for its dakbokkeumtang and its spicy yet<br />

mind-blowing broth. Enjoyed alongside Korean<br />

pancakes and traditional alcohols like nurrunji<br />

makkeoli (burnt rice wine) by crotchety yet loving<br />

old ajummas, this is a meal to remember. The stew<br />

is served in big bowls to share, family style, and the<br />

generous serving is one of the biggest strengths of the<br />

restaurant. If the portion is too large, though, you can<br />

order half of one chicken. The price of one chicken<br />

is 22,000 won, and the half chicken is 12,000 won.<br />

In addition, kimchi stew, bean paste stew, kimchi<br />

pancake, and stir-fried spicy pork are also popular<br />

side dishes.<br />

The space itself is actually not large enough to<br />

accommodate many people, so it’s not rare to see<br />

a crowd of people waiting to go in. That is the<br />

characteristic of any famous Korean restaurant. The<br />

service at that restaurant is so very good. Their kind<br />

service, in particular to people from other provinces,<br />

is what keeps hungry customers coming for more.<br />

If you want to taste true Korean traditional flavors,<br />

you should visit Gilsonne, just down from Chonbuk<br />

University’s Old Gate. The restaurant is open from<br />

11:30 am until midnight, and does serve lunch.<br />

Before visiting, If you want to reserve a table (and<br />

perhaps you should), you can call 063-271-6453.<br />

<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 11


Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />

LOCAL FOOD<br />

Dadam<br />

By MIRIAM LEE<br />

Photos by Anjee DiSanto<br />

12


Nestled above the massive banks and<br />

stores lining Baekjero (the six lane<br />

boulevard of cars rolling through the<br />

city from the train station to the department store),<br />

one of Jeonju’s best loved restaurants is perched<br />

like a wise old owl quietly watching the rat race<br />

below. It lies up a sturdy little hill and through an<br />

unassuming archway. Dadam, like the pumpkin<br />

dish it is famous for, is a deliciously stuffed<br />

treasure onto itself.<br />

A quaint and ornate garden walkway greets<br />

you with bright green plants and earthy tones<br />

of kimchi pots and wagon wheels, immediately<br />

calming the stress of the busy street below to the<br />

forgotten past before you even leave your shoes at<br />

the door and step inside.<br />

The restaurant is decorated with an antique<br />

collector’s dream- ceramics, instruments and<br />

music boxes neatly clutter every wall. The<br />

low tables are set beautifully with a view of the<br />

gardens, and the sprinkling of sesame seeds on<br />

side dishes seem to fall directly from the tinkling<br />

piano music overhead.<br />

The nooks and crannies and wooden screens give<br />

a sense of space, so that even with the hordes of<br />

teapots and hungry regulars, a calm homeliness<br />

prevails, and lets you feel free to pull up another<br />

red embroidered cushion and nibble the afternoon<br />

away.<br />

The Tan HoBak, a sweet pumpkin stuffed with<br />

dates, seeds and sticky rice, will feed several<br />

people, who will also want to save room for the<br />

fresh and delicious Sae Sa Gae Ran Mari (“egg<br />

roll”, but not to be confused with the small fried<br />

snack- this is more like a thin egg omelette<br />

lasagna, layered with cheese and topped with<br />

fresh greens and sprouts) as well as an abundance<br />

of tasty and beautifully presented side dishes.<br />

ChapJae and pink pickled lotus roots adorn the<br />

table, along with acorn jelly tofu, a warming<br />

DuenJang soup, and many more. Try ordering<br />

their nourishing Sprout BiBimBap, or Yon Ip Bap,<br />

which is a steamy package of sticky rice folded in<br />

a lotus flower leaf.<br />

The softly crumbling roasted pumpkin takes<br />

about an hour to prepare, so be sure to call and<br />

order ahead. The phone number is 063-242-3004.<br />

They are closed Sundays, but open from 11am to<br />

9pm all other days. This is a great place to bring<br />

visitors to Jeonju, or just to nourish yourself.<br />

You’ll leave feeling like a stuffed treasure<br />

yourself.<br />

<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 13


Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />

LOCAL FOOD<br />

Clam Flower World<br />

By ANJEE DISANTO<br />

Photos by Anjee DiSanto<br />

14


Those of us who aren’t Korean might<br />

initially shy away from dishes like<br />

hameultang, a mixed seafood stew. That’s<br />

probably because of the variety of ingredients<br />

tossed into the mix, many of which are live and<br />

wriggling at the point of entry. But to deny this<br />

dish just for that aversion is to deny a delicious<br />

and diverse culinary experience of one Korea’s<br />

traditional dishes.<br />

Jeonju is not at the ocean, it’s true, but since<br />

this is a stereotypical “foodie” city in Korea, of<br />

course you can find haemultang here. For this<br />

issue, we’re profiling just one of many place to eat<br />

this hidden food gem in Jeonju – “Clam Flower<br />

World” in Songcheondong.<br />

Here, everything under the sea (and some things<br />

above) get thrown in the pot. Oysters, clams,<br />

scallops, abalone, fan mussels, and octopus are all<br />

present, along with some obligatory sausages and<br />

ginseng. Depending on the seasons you might<br />

also find crab or even a small chicken (to go with<br />

the summer tradition of eating samgyetang).<br />

Many of these items are daunting and still<br />

pulsating on the table… if not outright trying to<br />

escape. A worker comes by to dump a doomed<br />

octopus into your soup, cutting it up on the spot.<br />

Much of the rest is left for you to peel out of shells<br />

and boil. The giant fan mussels are some of the<br />

most impressive, and their shells end up serving<br />

as bowls for the bits of seafood that are finished<br />

cooking.<br />

The sides here are primarily fish-based as<br />

well, and for dipping you’ll find the standard,<br />

somewhat-spicy Korean red sauce. Thankfully,<br />

the seafood itself maintains its own flavor with a<br />

hint of the ginseng, not needing too much sauce in<br />

any case.<br />

Like with many Korean dishes, you can add in<br />

components like ramen and udong, or get rice on<br />

the side, but with the amount of food on offer, that<br />

might just be overkill.<br />

This meal comes at a bit of price, but it’s worth<br />

it for the spread you get. A two-person “small”<br />

portion (which is anything but) runs at 49,000,<br />

with a medium portion at 59,000 and a large<br />

at 69,000. Certain non-haemultang spreads of<br />

individual seafood can be ordered separately, if<br />

the whole shebang isn’t to your liking.<br />

This branch restaurant is just around the corner<br />

from McDonald’s in Jeonju’s Songcheondong, but<br />

several others exist around town (along with many<br />

other restaurants specializing in haemultang and<br />

the like). No matter the location, be sure to take in<br />

the variety offered with dish, from the wriggling<br />

beginning to the overstuffed end.<br />

<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 15


Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />

LOCAL FOOD<br />

Gamroheon<br />

By ANJEE DISANTO<br />

Photos by Anjee DiSanto<br />

With the proliferation of fried chicken<br />

restaurants in Korea, it’s sometimes<br />

easy to forget that Korean food has a<br />

whole range of healthy components as well. But<br />

at Gamroheon, near Chonbuk University’s New<br />

Gate, it’s impossible not to notice this!<br />

Gamroheon is a small, independent Korean<br />

restaurant that specializes in “medicinal” cooking.<br />

The main courses are based on the model of<br />

hanjeongsik or baekban – in other words, having a<br />

spread of many small side dishes. But everything<br />

is a bit different here, using spices and flavor<br />

combinations that are outside the Korean norm to<br />

create a healthy, refreshing experience.<br />

Apples here might be topped with black sesame<br />

paste, or greens marinated to leave a slight licorice<br />

flavor. The doenjang is made with mushrooms<br />

and tastes softer and heartier than normal fare.<br />

Even the rice is unique in Korean terms, using<br />

turmeric for a slight flavoring and bright yellow<br />

color. All in all, you’re likely to get a range of 10-<br />

20 dishes that will range from just tasting fresh to<br />

breaking your flavor expectations.<br />

The basic medicinal hanjeongsik spread, which is<br />

16


more than enough for a broad tasting, costs 15,000<br />

won per person, or take it up one level for a more<br />

impressive experience with a cauldron of pork<br />

steamed on pine needles (recommended) at 25,000<br />

won per head. There’s also a 50,000 won set that<br />

is bound to be impressive. A few other individual<br />

dishes can be ordered, such as a medicinally<br />

prepared sweet-and-sour Pyogo mushroom dish<br />

(25,000) or broiled duck (a lavish choice at 70,000<br />

won).<br />

Owner Jo Hyeon Ju is proud of her fare and a very<br />

hospitable host. If you call ahead, she can easily<br />

prepare exclusively vegan or vegetarian spreads,<br />

or even a mixture of both (on arrival, she is very<br />

clear about separating dishes and on what does<br />

or does not contain animal products). On certain<br />

days, like Wednesdays or Fridays, vegan meals<br />

are prepared as a standard, but on other days the<br />

possibility is always there for those who need it.<br />

(Call or message ahead at 010-5773-2313.)<br />

Gamroheon open from 11 to 9, resting on<br />

Sundays, and is located just behind the Jeonbuk<br />

Bank tower past the CBNU New Gate. The<br />

restaurant is well-known enough to fill it’s seating<br />

some days for lunch or dinner, so to be safe, it’s<br />

best to call ahead and lock in a table.<br />

If you have a chance, take a break from all<br />

the fried foods and let your body heal through<br />

Gamroheon’s distinct menu. It may give you a<br />

new appreciation for the typical Korean side dish<br />

spread!<br />

<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 17


Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />

GLOBAL FOOD<br />

By ANJEE DISANTO<br />

Photos by Anjee DiSanto<br />

It’s hard to say whether this can count as<br />

a “hidden gem,” as many locals (expats<br />

especially) have become regulars, but<br />

there are still plenty of people who haven’t<br />

hunted it down to witness its greatness.<br />

Song’s Sweet House, located just down<br />

the street from Pungnammun in Jeonju’s<br />

Nambu Market area, is a cake and pie<br />

shop for those who favor distinct flavors.<br />

If you browse their professional-looking<br />

instagram (@songs_sweethouse), you<br />

might imagine you’ll be visiting an upscale<br />

gourmet bakery with the prices to match.<br />

In reality, the “gourmet” taste is there, but<br />

the price point is much more reasonable.<br />

Lemon ginger, orange caramel, black<br />

sesame matcha, almond apricot… these<br />

are just a few of the unexpected (at least<br />

for Korea) combinations one might<br />

come across here. But where do these<br />

combinations spring from?<br />

“I don’t think it’s my skill or technique,”<br />

owner Hwayoung Song says. “I just know<br />

how things should taste.”<br />

Song did not study baking formally, and<br />

explains that her “baking spirit” did not come<br />

in the beginning, but developed over time.<br />

She used to live in New York City and had a<br />

habit of trying all the fancy things she could,<br />

so she learned the suitable combinations<br />

of tastes well. When she did start baking,<br />

she says, it led to a “lot of disasters” in the<br />

beginning, but, as any customer can see, the<br />

end results are not that.<br />

“I like the fact that I started out as nonprofessional,<br />

because then I can do<br />

whatever I want. I can be more creative.”<br />

18


As examples, she mentions putting the<br />

earthiness of rosemary into a coconut lime<br />

pie, or ginger into a lemon meringue (a hit<br />

with her customers, though she notes that<br />

many people are initially afraid of ginger).<br />

Song is still teaching herself on how to<br />

combine creative flavors and bake new<br />

dishes, too, especially through YouTube<br />

and books. She’s hoping to delve more into<br />

breads in the future.<br />

Besides flavors, Song strays from some<br />

of the typical Korean bakery trends in<br />

other ways. For one, her desserts are not<br />

markedly sweet, as many in Korea are.<br />

She also doesn’t make the same dishes<br />

every day, with the exception of a few that<br />

are mostly recurring. Some have told her<br />

“You’ll never make money that way,” but<br />

for someone who relishes the creativity<br />

in baking, a steady menu is not that<br />

appetizing.<br />

Song also uses all natural ingredients… real<br />

butter, real cream, no preservatives. She<br />

even makes the caramel and mocha herself,<br />

instead of using syrup, and grinds her own<br />

chocolate for hot chocolate. There’s a<br />

lower profit margin involved, she says, but<br />

a higher degree of pride.<br />

On the topic of pride, Ms. Song grew up<br />

in this neighborhood and has a strong<br />

fondness for its character. The café itself<br />

used to be a famous pharmacy belonging to<br />

her father, while the family lived upstairs.<br />

She had been living abroad in Canada for<br />

30 years when her father fell ill, but took<br />

the opportunity to come back and ensure<br />

that her childhood home wasn’t sold. But<br />

then came the challenge.<br />

She needed to open<br />

a shop, but had<br />

actually never worked<br />

before. She decided on<br />

a coffee shop with cakes,<br />

but had never baked these<br />

cakes before. Nevertheless, she<br />

undertook the challenge, and Song’s<br />

Sweet House was born.<br />

Nowadays, Song’s café has a good number<br />

of non-Korean customers. Most are<br />

younger people who have traveled to get<br />

there, usually from across town – not as<br />

many tourists, despite being close to the<br />

market and Hanok Village. People come<br />

for the cozy atmosphere and the fresh<br />

cakes, but many also know her and are<br />

eager to have regular conversation.<br />

She does keep a few regular dishes on hand<br />

for these loyal customers, such as her carrot<br />

cake. This is a recommended dish for any<br />

new customer, along with the Boston cream<br />

pie and earl grey tea cake, or any of the<br />

pies. Song comments that<br />

Song’s Sweet House is open until 8 p.m. on<br />

Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday, until 6 on<br />

Sunday, and until 9 on Friday and Saturday<br />

(making it a great stop from the night<br />

market). The seating area is small, but<br />

you’re likely to be lucky enough to snag a<br />

window seat at most times of days. These<br />

are ideal for people watching and watching<br />

any weather that might be happening<br />

outside while you’re enjoying your coffee<br />

and cake safely inside.<br />

<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 19


Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />

GLOBAL FOOD<br />

20


By ANJEE DISANTO<br />

Photos by Anjee DiSanto<br />

These days, Jeonju has more than a dozen<br />

restaurants offering Vietnamese style<br />

pho, or rice noodle soup, and with those,<br />

other types of Southeast Asian shops have begun<br />

to appear little by little in the city’s culinary<br />

landscape. Little Laos is one of these, but differs<br />

in terms of its location, style, and fare, making it<br />

a great alternative destination.<br />

Little Laos, a relatively new addition to the<br />

Jeonju food scene, is located in Seohak-dong, just<br />

next to Jeonju National University of Education.<br />

How could such a shop appear here? Is there a<br />

Laotian presence? In reality, this café is owned<br />

by a very hospitable Korean family who lived<br />

in Laos for seven years and who adore Laotian<br />

culture and food. The owner originally opened<br />

the space as a gallery in this up-and-coming<br />

artistic neighborhood, as he owns a wide array<br />

of art from fairly famous Laotian artists. You’ll<br />

even see an antique stone Khmer statue here that<br />

is worthy of being in a history museum!<br />

As for the food and drink, while the menu is<br />

simple, it doesn’t disappoint. You’ll of course<br />

find rice noodle soups, the most typical one filled<br />

with chunks of beef (but a heartier cut than many<br />

Vietnamese style beef pho bowls in Korea).<br />

Along with this are a few choices of baguette<br />

sandwiches, showing the country’s French<br />

influence. These are dense and close to the style of<br />

Vietnamese banh mi, offering a nice respite from<br />

the typical Korean “Western” sandwiches full<br />

of filler. The restaurant also recommends a dish<br />

offering a plate of Laotian barbecue alongside<br />

cold noodle soup, perfect for the still-hot months.<br />

If you’re not eating and just want to stop by for<br />

the art and a drink, the shop sells mango and<br />

passionfruit juice, Laotian coffee, and the popular<br />

Beer Lao.<br />

The family running this café and gallery are<br />

perfect hosts, and are likely to ask you in which<br />

language they can speak to you. It’s worth<br />

visiting here for the food, the drink, the art, or just<br />

the atmosphere of the neighborhood, all ready to<br />

be soaked up at a good price in a cozy spot.<br />

<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 21


Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />

GLOBAL FOOD<br />

22


By STEPHEN NOAKES<br />

Photos by Anjee DiSanto<br />

I<br />

ascend the staircase, rising above the<br />

cacophony and claustrophobia that is Nambu<br />

market on a Saturday night. A man and a<br />

woman in painted faces bang a drum to the beat<br />

of a synthetic, noraebang-esque folk song, but I<br />

don't understand what I'm looking at. Yeah... I<br />

could use a glass of wine.<br />

Owner/head chef, Joo Beomjun, has operated<br />

Grappa Tapas out of the same venue, on the second<br />

floor of Nambu market, for the past for years,<br />

serving fine Spanish cuisine at a reasonable price.<br />

The restaurant seats eight, so don't go there with<br />

a large group of friends. It's more of a place<br />

for an intimate date night than for a guys' and<br />

girls' night out. The cozy quarters contribute<br />

to the atmosphere, a warm, burgundy paint job<br />

with matching wine bottles, trinkets from Spain,<br />

and Nightmare before Christmas figurines that<br />

somehow don't feel out of the place at all. I<br />

slouch back in my chair, feeling mellow from the<br />

wine and whimsy, as the first course arrives.<br />

Full disclosure. It's safe to say that my palate has<br />

become just a little Koreanized over the months.<br />

Sometimes, I go to a restaurant, order an old<br />

favorite from back home, taste it, and ask myself,<br />

“Is this really what it's supposed to taste like?<br />

I think it's close, but I can't quite remember.”<br />

This time, there is no mistaking it. It all comes<br />

flooding back. I remember butter!<br />

I will let the dishes speak for themselves. Here<br />

are my general impressions:<br />

First Course: Palpo. Octopus in a butter and<br />

garlic sauce, served with bread. The Koreans do<br />

octopus right, so this is a safe bet. The garlic is a<br />

rich, golden brown. It hasn't been minced. The<br />

cloves are almost whole. There is no garlic bite,<br />

the cloves having been sautéed in butter.<br />

Second Course: Carbonara de Chosua. Bacon<br />

pasta. I think Mr. Joo makes his own pasta, and<br />

there is a world of difference compared to the<br />

boxed stuff I pick up at Lotte Super. He applies<br />

parmesan like a surgeon. His efforts pay off. It<br />

isn't fatty or greasy. The bacon is tender, not<br />

quite crispy.<br />

Grappa’s menu varies from time to time. Other<br />

popular dishes have and may include tender<br />

stacks of mushrooms (de setas) or the ridiculously<br />

tender Estofado de Panceta, a saucy pork dish.<br />

Both of these as well are sure to stun.<br />

Grappa Tapas is closed on Mondays. Even still,<br />

it is best to eat a light lunch and show up early<br />

on any other day of the week. Like many of the<br />

restaurant in the youth market, they sometimes<br />

sell out of food after the dinner rush. Mr. Joo is<br />

also elusive in terms of social media and contact<br />

information, so as with many other shops in the<br />

area, you show up and hope for an open door<br />

with a seat. This is, indeed, part of the charm,<br />

and the food makes it well worth it.<br />

<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 23


Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />

CAFE<br />

the Chocolate Cafe<br />

“Charlie”<br />

By ANJEE DISANTO<br />

Photos by Anjee DiSanto<br />

While most Jeonju neighborhoods are<br />

overflowing with cafes, the bulk<br />

of them differentiate themselves<br />

through interior theme or price discounts, not<br />

through an actual distinct menu. This is not<br />

the case with Charlie, a chocolate-themed<br />

café downtown, just steps from the Korean<br />

Traditional Culture Center.<br />

Walking into Charlie, you’re greeted by deep<br />

red walls, soft lighting, and the aroma of thick,<br />

rich chocolate. The menu matches. Here, the<br />

24


highlight is the 8 kinds of flavored hot<br />

chocolate (listed as chocolat chaud) and<br />

several flavors of iced chocolate, all of<br />

which are thicker than the norm and<br />

more akin to European-style drinking<br />

chocolate. Besides the more basic<br />

flavors, you can find “Oriental” (a<br />

medicinal blend), the banana-flavored<br />

“African Swing,” and an orange-flavored<br />

white-chocolate blend called “Stockholm<br />

Syndrome,” among others. All are<br />

served in beautifully patterned cups with<br />

saucers that make you want to put your<br />

pinky up and sip slowly, in style, or take<br />

some snaps for social media.<br />

The owners here have an open baking<br />

room in the back where you can see<br />

them preparing the chocolates and cakes<br />

to go alongside the drinks. A display<br />

case by the door showcases these tasty<br />

morsels, everything from whisky-filled<br />

bon bons to orange confit to decorated<br />

macarons. Expect to pay 6-7,000 for a<br />

thick chocolate drink and 2-3,000 for<br />

each treat alongside, and expect it to be<br />

worth it.<br />

For those who are not such fans of<br />

chocolate, there is also the standard<br />

selection of coffee on hand here, as well<br />

as a few smoothies and a selection of<br />

flower teas.<br />

This is also just a quiet, homey place<br />

to hang out. The music is soft and<br />

unobtrusive, unlike a lot of typical<br />

cafes, and there’s the chance to hang<br />

out alongside a giant stuffed bear while<br />

you study or just enjoy your drink. Who<br />

doesn’t love that?<br />

Charlie is just around the corner from<br />

Shinhan Bank downtown. Typical hours<br />

are from 11-9 on weekdays and 1-9 on<br />

the weekend. Check them out if you’re<br />

sick of powdered chocolate and ready<br />

for the real deal!<br />

<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 25


Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />

CAFE<br />

Lovely Parrot<br />

By YOONHA KIM<br />

Have dog and cat cafes become a bit too<br />

commonplace for you? Or perhaps<br />

you’re just an avid bird lover? Well,<br />

for either situation, we’ve got just the thing. The<br />

name of the cafe is “Lovely Parrot,” and you’ll<br />

find it just down the street from Dukjin Park or<br />

Jeonju’s Bukdae area. It’s surprising to see such<br />

a unique cafe pop up outside of the capital area!<br />

At Lovely Parrot, it is easy to enjoy these birds<br />

as patrons of all ages. And how does this parrot<br />

café work? First, it’s good to know that parrots<br />

are afraid of strangers. When you get there, wash<br />

your hands, choose some beverages, and wait<br />

for about 5 to 10 minutes as they adapt. The<br />

parrots will smell a little, but it’s no worse than<br />

in most dog and cat cafes. Next, don’t be afraid<br />

of their beaks as they explore. A parrot’s beak<br />

has a function like a person’s hand. When parrots<br />

“peck” someone with their beaks, the motion is a<br />

type of exploration or investigation. We can raise<br />

our hands toward the parrots’ heads, speak with<br />

the parrots, or touch them (gently). (The café<br />

warns to never push on or pet their bodies too<br />

strongly.)<br />

In this café, we can see 40 species, not even just<br />

parrots, but many birds like common sparrows<br />

or even rare birds. You might find cockatiels,<br />

golden cherry parrots, and twin parrots, among<br />

others. Cockatiels can act especially charming<br />

toward people, and are likely to do the action<br />

people most expect from parrots – repeating.<br />

These birds follow your lead, so if someone says<br />

“Annyeonghaseyo,” the cockatiel will “parrot” it<br />

back. You’ll also have a chance to feed some of<br />

the birds that come to talk with you.<br />

Lovely Parrot is open daily from 11am to 9pm,<br />

but, as some have occasionally found it closed<br />

on a whim, you may benefit from calling ahead<br />

(010- 8582-3003). The admission, regardless of<br />

age, is 7,000 won, and this included the price<br />

of a coffee, shake, or smoothie, as well as the<br />

parrot experience itself. For more information,<br />

visit their [Korean only] internet cafe and blog at<br />

http://cafe.naver.com/lovelyparrot1004/.<br />

26


Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />

BAR<br />

Bar Cold Dawn<br />

By ANJEE DISANTO<br />

Photos by Anjee DiSanto<br />

Maybe you want to stray<br />

away from soju, or<br />

maybe you’re sick of<br />

all those sugary standard Western<br />

drinks? Or maybe you’ve just<br />

been checking out the Nambu<br />

night market and you have to<br />

escape those hordes of people?<br />

In any of these cases, we have a<br />

recommendation.<br />

Bar Cold Dawn, located in the<br />

Cheongnyeon “Youth” Mall on<br />

the second floor of Nambu market, is one of a<br />

collection of hip, relatively new hotspots there.<br />

Some in the foreigner community refer to this<br />

bar as “Potions,” mostly because of a specific<br />

characteristic – you can get drinks for takeout<br />

here inside of upside-down light bulb-shaped<br />

bottles that quite resemble<br />

magical potions.<br />

There actually is a bit of magic<br />

in this place, though. You’ll see<br />

it on first entry (if you can even<br />

get a seat) through the wall of<br />

little-known spirits and lively<br />

style of the bartender/potion<br />

master, Narwhee. But the<br />

true magic is in the drinks you<br />

receive here, and the general<br />

lack of menu.<br />

How to order: just give some instruction. Or<br />

give no instruction at all!<br />

Specify a color, or a flavor, or a<br />

characteristic. “I’d like something<br />

purple.” “I’d like something that<br />

tastes like almonds.” “I’d like<br />

something that Elsa from Frozen<br />

might drink” (an actual typical<br />

order of a local Canadian). You<br />

could also leave things up to the<br />

potion master’s whim, as she’s not<br />

likely to disappoint.<br />

This bar has a range of regulars<br />

who come here often, so on many nights you<br />

may not find a seat inside. It’s also not much of a<br />

place to take a large group, though there are takeout<br />

“potions” available for roaming around the<br />

market area. In truth, this bar is best enjoyed on<br />

a quiet night with just a companion or two, when,<br />

if it’s quiet and comfy, the<br />

bartender might even play you<br />

a song.<br />

Bar Cold Dawn is on Facebook<br />

at www.facebook.com/<br />

BarColdDawn. You’ll find this<br />

bar open – usually – from 3 to<br />

11 p.m., although, as with many<br />

places in the Cheongnyeon<br />

Mall area, the shop may be<br />

closed on a whim from time to<br />

time. Perhaps this adds to the magical mystique,<br />

though?<br />

<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 27


Forgotten Gem<br />

BAR<br />

Deepin,<br />

a Forgotten Gem<br />

By MINSEOK YI<br />

Photos by hyunseok Park<br />

In past years, this bar would never have<br />

fallen under the category of “hidden<br />

gems.” In fact, Deepin has been the<br />

most famous pub in the city of Jeonju since<br />

1997, particularly catering to the local expat<br />

crowd. In recent years, though, much of<br />

the rich expat history of this bar has gone<br />

unnoticed to newcomers, reverting it to<br />

something of a more hidden status to many.<br />

Deepin is a place of its own taste, drawing<br />

people from all over the world to share their<br />

culture and sentiment. It’s been the site of<br />

countless Halloween parties, leaving parties,<br />

concerts, murder mystery events, charity<br />

fundraisers, and simple end-of-the-night<br />

shenanigans among those in the longterm<br />

expat community.<br />

Once you step inside, the unique atmosphere<br />

which has been ingrained over 20 years,<br />

will surround you. The walls are full of<br />

international money fixed up and scribbled<br />

with messages from visitors since 1997.<br />

Reminders of events past and artwork<br />

from former expats abound, along with the<br />

scrawled chalk messages (particularly in<br />

28


the bathrooms) chronicling the merriment and<br />

debauchery of times long gone (and some more<br />

recent).<br />

As for the bar itself, often playing a Victoria’s<br />

Secret fashion show or sports match on loop<br />

on the screen. The staff are friendly enough<br />

to warrant sitting at the bar if you’re alone or<br />

in a small group. The drink menus is plentiful<br />

enough, with some more modern drinks served<br />

in hollowed out coconuts (a pricier choice) or<br />

strong, efficient drinks like long island iced teas<br />

to get you feeling social quickly.<br />

Deepin, a Jeonju original, was introduced in<br />

"Lonely Planet", one of the most well-known<br />

travel guidebooks, as a must-visit pub for its<br />

tradition and specialty. Nestled in a quiet alley off<br />

Wedding Street downtown, it’s great for a latenight<br />

visit after several other bars or an early one<br />

after shopping or food in the nearby Gaeksa or<br />

Nambu Market areas.<br />

Find Deepin online at facebook.com/deepin1997.<br />

16-16, Jeollagamyeong 4-gil, Wansan-gu, Jeonju-si,<br />

Jeollabuk-do, Korea 55038<br />

070-4063-1997<br />

<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 29


Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />

MUSEUM<br />

Luielle Hat Culture Center<br />

By ANJEE DISANTO Photos by Anjee DiSanto<br />

●<br />

Walking past the Luielle<br />

Hat Culture Center near<br />

Jeonju’s downtown, one<br />

might mistake it for only a [very<br />

stylish] hat store and café. In fact,<br />

while there is indeed a top-notch hat<br />

store (and café) below, the multi-level<br />

hat museum is much more.<br />

This location is owned by Shirley<br />

Chun, a well-known hat designer<br />

in Korea, and her husband Dr. Cho<br />

Hyun-chung, both of whom are natives of Jeonju.<br />

Chun’s brand, Luielle, is regarded as one of the<br />

best in the country and sold at well-established<br />

boutiques in Seoul and beyond.<br />

At the hat culture center, the most impressive<br />

section is the second floor, displaying hat-related<br />

art and a selection of historical pieces. Hats from<br />

school uniforms, various military regimes, and<br />

royal courts are on display, along with a number<br />

of typical Korean examples. In particular, Cho<br />

30<br />

notes that visitors<br />

should focus on the<br />

“gat,” a Korean horsehair<br />

hat that was a great<br />

symbol of personality and<br />

status in Korean history.<br />

Throughout the museum,<br />

some varieties of historical and<br />

modern hats hang on strings from<br />

the ceiling, allowing the visitor to<br />

try them on for size and take the<br />

obligatory selfies. A section is also devoted to<br />

works by Chun herself. Chun has designed hats<br />

for celebrities and high-level movie productions<br />

in the past, and some of the designs are stunning.<br />

Certain pieces feel more sculpted than sewn, in fact.<br />

On the third floor is a sort of hat-making<br />

experience center where visitors can craft their<br />

own caps, if the timing and program fits.<br />

The owners note that only a century ago, there<br />

were almost 4000 kinds of hats being used in<br />

Korea, so it’s no surprise to find the first museum<br />

of this kind here in Korea, let alone in Jeonju,<br />

one of its most traditional cities.<br />

To find the Luielle Hat Center easily, walk<br />

along the lefthand wall of Hanok’s closed-in<br />

Gyeonggijeon area and keep going for about<br />

two blocks. You’ll see the hat museum<br />

on your left. For more information, visit<br />

kr.luielle.com.


Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />

MUSEUM<br />

Jeonju Korean<br />

Herbal Medicine Center<br />

By AMANDUS BORLAND ● Photos by Stephen Noakes<br />

Jeonju’s Korean Herbal Medicine Center<br />

stands unassumingly in the center of Hanok<br />

Village. With its understated signage, it<br />

could easily pass for just another cafe.<br />

The interior is about the same. Unfortunately,<br />

waning interest in the museum's offerings have<br />

forced it to diversify its products. To remain open,<br />

it now offers regular cafe fare and hanbok rentals,<br />

in addition to its traditional programming.<br />

The exhibits that remain range from herbs<br />

infusing in apothecary-style glass wares to<br />

antique mortar and pestles, to historical texts,<br />

to antlers. For English speakers with limited<br />

knowledge of the Korean language, you can<br />

only gawk at the beauty of the artifacts. All<br />

information is in Korean.<br />

Forget the language barrier and the merchandising.<br />

You may still be underwhelmed. Fortunately, the<br />

museum still offers its experiential programming<br />

– which is totally the best part!<br />

Visitors to the museum can take an online quiz (in<br />

English or Korean) to discover their constitution.<br />

There are four distinct constitutions that make<br />

up Sasang typology, All people fall into either<br />

the Tae-Yang, Tae-Eum, So-Yang, or So-Eum<br />

categories. Your constitution is defined from<br />

birth and is based on psychological, physical, and<br />

social attributes. The typology provides an outline<br />

of diet, exercise, and medicinal herbs that help<br />

bring the body into balance. Questions on the<br />

quiz stretch from how you would describe your<br />

nose size to how you would react to criticism.<br />

The questions are fairly comprehensive and, at<br />

times, difficult to answer honestly. They get pretty<br />

probing. All in all, it was the best 15 minutes and<br />

2000₩ I have spent in a while.<br />

After the constitution quiz, the museum has<br />

personalized, herbal foot baths. The herbs are<br />

said to promote balance and circulation. They are<br />

supposed to detoxify the organs, too. Whether<br />

or not this is true, the herbal concoction smelled<br />

incredible and refreshed my feet from traipsing<br />

around the village all day. This can be done for<br />

9000₩.<br />

To complete the experience, get the boyak. It is said<br />

to increase vitality. This is a strong and bitter herbal<br />

tea. The ingredients are customized, again, for your<br />

constitution. It is very good for health. Based on the<br />

taste, I believe it. It costs around 5000₩.<br />

The museum is open every day except Monday,<br />

and gives you a glimpse into this ancient practice<br />

at a relatively cheap price.<br />

<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 31


Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />

MUSEUM<br />

Become a Fan of the<br />

Fan Museum<br />

By ANJEE DISANTO<br />

Photos by Anjee DiSanto<br />

The Hanok Village is full of niche<br />

museums, from traditional embroidery<br />

to traditional medicine and much more.<br />

There are, however, museums just beyond the<br />

village that perhaps don’t get as much love or<br />

foot traffic as they ought to. One such spot is<br />

the Jeonju Fan Museum, nestled on a corner just<br />

across the bridge from the Hanok area in Seohakdong.<br />

Huge signs atop the building make it clear that<br />

this is indeed a fan museum, but on first glance,<br />

the bottom floor might be confused as just a<br />

shop (one where not many<br />

fans seem to appear). Rest<br />

assured, upon entering,<br />

you’ll be welcomed past<br />

an array of purchasable<br />

fans to visit the historic fan<br />

collection in the museum on<br />

the second floor.<br />

Truth be told, the museum<br />

isn’t as large as one might<br />

expect, but it’s definitely<br />

worth a look. Divided<br />

into two sections, the upstairs offers a small yet<br />

varied glimpse into different styles of fans from<br />

both Korean and world history, as well as some<br />

insight into the making and ornamentation of<br />

such fans. Almost all of the explanatory text is in<br />

Korean, but for the most part, understanding this<br />

is not necessary to learn and observe from the<br />

experience.<br />

The left-hand side of the museum offers one row<br />

of fans from around the world: one full display<br />

section devoted to fans of China, one to fans of<br />

Japan, and two to fans from around the world.<br />

This half of the museum also has a row of<br />

Korean fans, divided into sections in terms of<br />

whether they are folding or non-folding style. A<br />

bulk of the fans in the museum overall seem to<br />

be from the Chosun dynasty. Beyond this, the<br />

section featuring non-folding fans varies more<br />

in age, with many models looking more antique<br />

and significantly more impressive. Some of<br />

them also come from the area between 1910 and<br />

1980, offering a unique peek at that era through<br />

portraits or advertisements adorning the fans<br />

themselves. Some are even adorned with long<br />

32


and well-preserved pheasant feathers.<br />

A collection of different kinds of handles of fans<br />

also appears here, much more intricate than the<br />

type we see today. Mainly wood, such handles<br />

featured character carvings, Buddhist themes,<br />

or simply elegant patterns. A stroll across to the<br />

other half of the museum reveals more about the<br />

importance of ornamentation. Here, the displays<br />

explain the significance of “seonchu,” or the<br />

ornaments that sometime dangle from the bottom<br />

of fan handles. Originally, those who passed the<br />

highest level of state examinations in Korea were<br />

allowed to have seonchu as ornaments. Some<br />

made theirs even fancier as a display of wealth,<br />

using gold, silver, or jewels; the museum display<br />

offers samples of these as well as of ornately<br />

carved seonchu, some of which even have tools<br />

like a compass.<br />

Besides just finished products, the museum<br />

displays a vast range of tools used for making<br />

the fans, with plenty of variation in terms of how<br />

old the items are and how crudely they’ve been<br />

constructed. Woodblocks used to imprint fan<br />

designs also appear hear alongside fan stands,<br />

boxes, sheaths. The sheaths themselves are<br />

interesting in that they show a likely difference in<br />

class or status, with some simple sheaths woven<br />

out of paper string and sap, and others finely<br />

embroidered on cloth.<br />

Lastly, you see here a small collection of black<br />

and white photographs that is nonetheless<br />

impressive, showing the mass production of fans<br />

in earlier days.<br />

All in all, a stop by the fan museum may take<br />

just 20 to 30 minutes and may not be of great<br />

interest to everyone, but the display is impressive<br />

for history lovers or for art lovers as a stop on<br />

the Seohak Art Walk (see more information<br />

in this issue). For those who are profoundly<br />

interested in fans, though, this is not the only<br />

fan-related tourist site in Jeonju: the Fan Culture<br />

Center, across the river in the Hanok Village,<br />

also displays and educates on the history of fans<br />

in Korea as well as letting visitors decorate their<br />

own (visit jeonjufan.kr).<br />

Admission to the Jeonju Fan Museum is just<br />

1000 won, with opening hours from 10 to 7 every<br />

day except Sunday. For more information, visit<br />

the website at fanmuseum.or.kr (only in Korean,<br />

for now).<br />

<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 33


Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />

ARTS<br />

Palbok Art Factory<br />

By ANJEE DISANTO<br />

Photos by Anjee DiSanto<br />

By the time you’re reading, this hidden<br />

gem will actually have vanished… at<br />

least in its original form. Fortunately,<br />

it will soon appear again in its new incarnation<br />

and is sure to remain as a “jewel” within the<br />

city landscape. Once a manufacturing center<br />

among many others in Jeonju’s Palbok-dong, it<br />

later became Palbok Art Factory, and will later in<br />

2017 become a uniquely placed public park and<br />

cultural center.<br />

Palbok Art Factory served as a lesser-known yet<br />

profoundly unique cultural zone within Jeonju<br />

over the past year. At first glance, to some, it<br />

might have seemed to be just an abandoned<br />

factory. And, well, it was. The location gained<br />

low-key Instagram fame simply for that… if one<br />

wondered into the more dilapidated of the two<br />

factory buildings, layers upon layers of 80s-era<br />

cassette tapes would crunch beneath the feet<br />

. Exit signs dangled from barely-there rooftops<br />

and plants and dust began to overtake everything.<br />

It was nonetheless a compelling site for grunge<br />

photo shoots and urban explorers alike.<br />

Meanwhile, in the more structurally stable of<br />

the factory’s buildings, something more modern<br />

was afoot. The Jeonju Cultural Foundation came<br />

into possession of this unique site and decided to<br />

develop it. First, though, they would use it in its<br />

original form, an abandoned factory, to showcase<br />

exhibitions and offer visitors a unique perspective<br />

on both art and labor history.<br />

The site’s main exhibition, held in late 2016,<br />

featured an array of well-known artists, many of<br />

whom embraced the factory’s overabundance of<br />

cassettes for installation artwork. The event also<br />

allowed a glimpse into the past – some of it dark.<br />

Representatives of the Cultural Foundation saw<br />

this as a worthwhile part of the experience. In<br />

the exhibition halls, tiny kid-sized wooden stools,<br />

some crudely padded with cardboard and packing<br />

34


tape, showed where adult workers once had to sit<br />

to work for a dozen hours on end. The windows,<br />

organizers explained, were all high and without<br />

a discernable view (to lessen “distraction”). In<br />

a partitioned area on the rooftop, where a tree<br />

poked through and a gleaming white installation<br />

art piece swayed in the breeze, hundreds of<br />

female workers had once been obliged to change<br />

in the same overly small room.<br />

But all of these conditions also led to the Art<br />

Factory becoming what it would be, and will<br />

be, in the future. Now abandoned for 25 years,<br />

the S Electronics facility, operating under the<br />

brand name Sorex, was doomed to failure in a<br />

Following a long period of abandonment,<br />

the Jeonju Cultural Foundation stepped<br />

in. Revitalization models from Incheon and<br />

elsewhere around the world led to a plan for<br />

development, and then a means to do so: 5<br />

billion won in grant money from the city and the<br />

government.<br />

And this year? In 2017, before the upcoming<br />

date of destruction and renovation in May, the<br />

Foundation held another two-month series of<br />

exhibitions in the factory, one even featuring<br />

the local foreign artist group. This series of<br />

events was well publicized and even touted as<br />

an “alternate date course” by the city, putting<br />

societal sense. The center exported cassette tapes<br />

to Turkey, Japan, and Southeast Asia, but, for<br />

one thing, cassettes were not a product with a<br />

lot of longevity for the future. (The company’s<br />

idea to switch to video tape production at the<br />

start of the 90s would pose a similar problem.)<br />

Beyond this, though, the company’s harsh labor<br />

conditions came under fire at a pivotal point in<br />

Korean history. In the late 80s, with new rights<br />

and revolutions in place in the country, the Sorex<br />

factory was part of nationwide labor strikes<br />

that led its workers to strike for 407 days. The<br />

factory, it seems, never fully recovered.<br />

the strange space and its neighborhood into the<br />

spotlight.<br />

By now, the “art factory” is gone, at least in<br />

its truest factory state. This fall, though, the<br />

location will rise again, as a park and cultural<br />

center, a place to rest in the busy factory district<br />

with exhibition halls and a café. The organizers<br />

hope to also keep some remnants of the factory’s<br />

labor-related past within – an important bit of<br />

history to keep going forward.<br />

To see the evolution of the art factory and photos<br />

of its past glory, visit its Facebook page at www.<br />

facebook.com/palbokart.<br />

<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 35


Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />

ARTS<br />

Renaissance in Seohak-dong<br />

By ANJEE DISANTO<br />

Photos by Anjee DiSanto<br />

Anyone who lived in Jeonju 10 years<br />

or more ago remembers what the<br />

Hanok Village used to be like. It was<br />

quaint, yet slightly crumbling. The cathedral<br />

and portrait halls stood proudly amongst a very<br />

antique neighborhood backdrop, and any cafes<br />

or restaurants you found were themselves hidden<br />

diamonds in an area that was beautiful but raw.<br />

Nowadays, in contrast, the village has been<br />

revitalized from edge to edge, stocked with coffee<br />

shops and food stands and filled with selfie stickwielding,<br />

hanok-wearing tourists on every street.<br />

This is no doubt fantastic for photographers and<br />

foodies, as well as for the city economy. Still, the<br />

change in the neighborhood’s character has led to<br />

searching for that more raw and quaint experience<br />

in nearby areas, like the Jaman Village and, now,<br />

Seohak-dong.<br />

Located just across the river from Hanok<br />

Village, Seohak-dong offers an experience that<br />

(at least for now) feels less commercialized, and<br />

particularly focuses on the arts. Even without<br />

any guidance, the neighborhood can be a delight.<br />

Wandering off the main street (Seohak-ro) leads<br />

one down narrow, walled alleys that may lead<br />

to murals, cafes, guesthouses, or even nothing –<br />

just colorful residential houses with old gates and<br />

overflowing flowers.<br />

If you are searching for specific art-related<br />

experiences, the city and Seohak-dong have<br />

posted a numbered “art walk” to help experience<br />

the area. Along this course, you find galleries,<br />

high-class cafes, artisans, art studios, and even a<br />

fan museum and Laotian restaurant and gallery<br />

36


(see details elsewhere in this issue). Here a few<br />

highlights of exploring the area.<br />

Near the beginning of Seohak-ro, you’ll first<br />

encounter the tasteful Seohak Art Space, a<br />

combination café, gallery, and guesthouse. The<br />

owner, Kim Seong-gyun, is herself an artist:<br />

besides her studio below the café, happy, sculpted<br />

tigers and other of her works pop up around the<br />

colorful garden and the nooks and crannies of the<br />

café. The second floor whitebox gallery offers<br />

weekly and biweekly artist exhibitions and a<br />

place to rest while exploring.<br />

Just across the way, it’s hard not to notice walls<br />

adorned with Little Prince murals. These offer<br />

just one of the many ideal selfie spots in the<br />

neighborhood, and, if you venture to the other<br />

side of the walls, you’ll find something even<br />

more picturesque. Piquenique, another café down<br />

a bright alley, sits in an enclosed courtyard with<br />

a stunning garden and open second-floor terrace<br />

for events. In Fall, small concerts will take place<br />

there, offering a great view of the neighborhood.<br />

Adjacent to the café, another newly opened<br />

building offers coffee and art classes, as well as<br />

relics of its time as an old hospital (look for the<br />

hospital door in the back garden and the sign out<br />

front).<br />

Further down the walk, there’s plenty to see, even<br />

without sitting down for a drink. A European<br />

antique shop and a wood-burning craft shop<br />

(which also turns photos into wood-based<br />

artwork) are among the highlights for those who<br />

are out to shop. For the art lovers, a few more<br />

galleries pop up including the Seohak Photo<br />

Gallery (worth the 2,000 won admission) and<br />

the small but bright Sanchae Art Gallery around<br />

the corner. A few artist studios also dot the<br />

neighborhood among residences, including the<br />

photo-worthy studio of Lee Jeok Woo.<br />

Wandering the whole way down the main street<br />

takes one all the way to the massive Center for<br />

Intangible Cultural Heritage, which offers weekly<br />

performances showcasing some of that heritage<br />

to preserve it for the public, often free.<br />

Without a doubt, this area is just in the middle<br />

of its renaissance, and now is the time to start<br />

exploring it. Guesthouses and long-term Air<br />

BNB spots are popping up down many of the<br />

alleys, well-located in terms of both scenery and<br />

proximity to the Hanok Village and the leisurely<br />

river walk. Restaurants don’t saturate the area<br />

as in the case of many other tourist-driven<br />

neighborhoods – yet. However, what you do find<br />

in terms of food offers either a very homestyle<br />

and hearty Korean meal or a refreshing taste<br />

of the world outside (such as from Little Laos,<br />

further down the Seohak stroll).<br />

With visible construction all around the area,<br />

we’ll surely soon see new hotspots pop up around<br />

this area, and along with them, more crowds.<br />

As the weather starts to get cooler in coming<br />

months, don’t take the chance to see this quiet<br />

neighborhood for granted, especially while it is<br />

still, in fact, quiet.<br />

Seohak-dong, while unfamiliar to even more<br />

foreign residents, let alone tourists, is just across a<br />

bridge from the Hanok Village area. Just look for<br />

the hanok-style bridge (also a great place to rest<br />

and escape from the heat) and take a stroll across<br />

to a whole new area, just waiting to be explored.<br />

<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 37


Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />

ARTS<br />

Gallery Red Box<br />

By ANJEE DISANTO ● Photos by Anjee DiSanto<br />

38<br />

Building houses, cafes, and anything possible from container crates has become<br />

something of a trend these days (and not just in Korea). Nonetheless, the result<br />

is often something somewhat magical. In Jeonju’s case, there are a number of<br />

cafes and stores built from container crates, but perhaps the best example of a success<br />

with this style is Gallery Red Box.<br />

Situated in front of the Samsung Cultural Center at Chonbuk National University, this<br />

new gallery is hard to miss. Several conjoined crates compose the body of the building,<br />

painted in stark, bright red just along the sidewalk.<br />

One might be surprised if stepping inside for the first time. There’s nothing industrial<br />

about it. Rather, it’s an elongated version of a pristine white-box gallery, complete<br />

with wires and track lighting for the art. A wide variety of exhibitions have been held<br />

here since the opening this year: an esteemed calligraphy artist, a textile artist, an even<br />

a group exhibition of foreign artists, sponsored by the Jeonbuk Center for International<br />

Affairs.<br />

All of these were made possible through the free use of gallery. Yes – this gallery is


free to use in two-week blocks for<br />

students or community members, just<br />

by signing up. The university’s Han<br />

Style Campus Office is in charge or<br />

this initiative, as part of beautifying<br />

the campus, and so far, it’s been<br />

a success. The small courtyard<br />

in front of the gallery hosts other<br />

smaller container carts that are used<br />

by students and locals to sell crafts,<br />

art, or whatever they like. One open<br />

crate also has a public piano, painted<br />

with images of the little prince.<br />

During lunch hours or just after work<br />

or school, this area tends to be full<br />

of people munching on snacks or<br />

slurping coffees while listening to<br />

whoever bravely plays the piano for<br />

the crowd.<br />

Gallery Red Box starts new<br />

exhibitions every second Friday, so<br />

be sure to check them out whenever<br />

possible or sign up yourself! The<br />

location is also just in front of O’s<br />

Square, another popular site to sip<br />

coffee and spot artwork… perfect for<br />

a stroll for lovers and art-lovers alike.<br />

<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 39


Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />

NATURE<br />

Ajungli Nature<br />

By ANJEE DISANTO<br />

Photos by Anjee DiSanto<br />

Experience Center<br />

Ajungli’s picturesque Nature Experience<br />

Center is hardly a “center” at all,<br />

but rather an open area of fields and<br />

photogenic backdrops to take in nature in any<br />

season. This area is located atop a hill nearby<br />

Ajung station, a train station that is now only used<br />

for rail-biking. It’s easy to see from nearby hills<br />

because of the glass-domed building just below, a<br />

nursery for trees and other plants.<br />

But, if it’s just fields, why go here? Well, exactly<br />

that. The main reason to visit here is simply<br />

that it’s bursting with flowers in key seasons, for<br />

almost as far as the eye can see. In the late spring<br />

or early summer, you’ll mainly see cornflowers,<br />

layer upon layer in blues and purples and the<br />

occasional pink. In fall, it’s an overabundance of<br />

cosmos. At that time, the fields are perhaps the<br />

most spectacular, with some sections blooming<br />

the pale purple, magenta, or white flowers,<br />

and others blooming in only brilliant orange.<br />

Either of these seasonal blooms is a must-visit<br />

time, whether for simply stopping to smell the<br />

flowers or having an epic photo shoot among the<br />

blossoms.<br />

In Fall, the fields are also lined with simple<br />

scarecrows, wearing a variety of leftover<br />

sweatshirts and the occasional hanbok for style.<br />

These combined with the plant-based sculptures<br />

of fairytale characters and the occasional<br />

wagon or traditional pavilion, help add to the<br />

scenic nature of the vistas here. The area also<br />

occasionally hosts Saturday busking events<br />

during the peak flower-viewing times.<br />

It’s common during the bloom periods to see<br />

a wide range of couples and families here,<br />

spreading out for picnics near the fields. It’s<br />

the perfect place to do so, but be aware – unlike<br />

almost anywhere in Jeonju, there’s nowhere<br />

40


to buy snacks or drinks (save for a few cans of soft drinks from a<br />

machines). You have only what you bring with you, but it’s definitely<br />

worth bringing.<br />

From the flower fields, there are a few hikes into the nearby hills, such<br />

as to an observation tower, or down to the nearby reservoir, which is<br />

a stellar view in any season. A few famous restaurants are nearby in<br />

Ajungli as well, so it’s well worth a day out.<br />

Getting here can be a bit of a haul, but it is walkable from the Ajungli<br />

train station. If not, tell a taxi to go to Jeonju-si “yang-myo-jang,” or<br />

take Bus 102 from E-Mart or the bus terminal.<br />

<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 41


Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />

NATURE<br />

The Jeonju<br />

Arboretum<br />

By SEWWHANDI CHANDRASEKARA<br />

Photos by Anjee DiSanto<br />

The Korea Expressway Corporation<br />

Arboretum (better known as Jeonju<br />

Arboretum) is located near to the Jeonju<br />

World Cup Stadium, opposite to the Honam<br />

Expressway. The Jeonju arboretum is a place for<br />

research and educational space that promotes<br />

eco-culture, where nature and human beings coexist.<br />

It’s the only arboretum in South Korea<br />

built and operated by a public corporation (the<br />

Korea Expressway Corporation). This is because<br />

the corporation built the area to restore the local<br />

nature that was lost in building its expressway in<br />

1972.<br />

The arboretum has an area of about 0.3 km2<br />

(291,795 m2). Presently, the arboretum has nearly<br />

3576 flowers and plant species, most of them<br />

perennials and native species to South Korea.<br />

The most essential function of the arboretum is<br />

to collect live plants according to purpose such as<br />

medicinal plants, oriental plants, and dye plants,<br />

42


“Multinational children enjoying the spring at the arboretum<br />

(Left to right: Sri Lankan, Nepalese and Korean)<br />

Photo Credit: Sewwandhi Chandrasekara<br />

or secure the seeds and display them in the arboretum. It<br />

also provides education on plant species for students of<br />

all ages.<br />

The first step in discovering the arboretum is to go to the<br />

ecological wetland outside the arboretum premises. The<br />

entrance to the wetland is to the left of the parking lot.<br />

There are shelters and benches to enjoy the serenity of<br />

the wetlands and their unique species, as well as freedom<br />

to stretch out on the grass.<br />

Once you have entered the arboretum itself, you will<br />

see one of the aquatic botanical gardens with a mooring<br />

circle and manmade waterfall on the right side of the<br />

main entrance. In this garden, you can see various fish<br />

species in different sizes. The children are amazed to<br />

see some fish species in this pond. Further, children can<br />

enjoy seeing the rabbits, pairs of ducks, and a peacock<br />

staying in their sheds near this aquatic botanical garden.<br />

There are two more aquatic gardens located at the rear<br />

<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 43


Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />

NATURE<br />

end of the arboretum, and these two gardens are connected with a beautiful<br />

manmade waterfall.<br />

On the left to the main entrance, a pathway leads to general arboretum<br />

and flower gardens including mugunghwa (Korean Rose) flowers and<br />

grasshopper flowers. Mugunghwa is the national flower of South Korea,<br />

which embodies eternity and inexhaustible abundance.<br />

Tulip garden<br />

Next, the herb garden is located near the mugunghwa garden. This garden<br />

includes many plant species which have the purpose of flavoring food or<br />

medicines or giving scent to perfume. These plants have strong fragrance<br />

which you can smell once you bend down toward them. But make sure<br />

not to damage the herbs. If you are interested in herbs, then also visit the<br />

herbarium which is just few meters away from the herb garden. There<br />

you can see a collection of preserved specimens and associated data for<br />

scientific studies.<br />

Inside the glass green house,<br />

where tropical plants are located<br />

The bamboo forest, endangered botanical garden, and outdoor theater<br />

are situated in between the herb garden and the herbarium. When you<br />

are passing through the bamboo forest, you can feel the cool breeze of<br />

the natural bamboo. The endangered botanical garden is a very attractive<br />

place for most of the students, because of the importance of endangered<br />

plant species. More of the endangered species are managed and preserved<br />

thoroughly in here. Local college student clubs and the general public can<br />

borrow the outdoor theater here free for the purpose of revitalizing local<br />

culture and arts events for visitors. But these events must be non-profit<br />

purposes. Visitors can enjoy painting, sculpturing, concerts, events, etc.,<br />

throughout the year in this outdoor theater.<br />

The educational promotional hall is located in the middle of the arboretum<br />

area. On the same premises there is a shelter where you can sit and learn<br />

live teaching materials just in front of you. An eye-catching art gallery is<br />

available in the promotional hall, too.<br />

To heat things up, there is a glass greenhouse located opposite the<br />

educational hall. Here, you can experience a humid tropical environment<br />

and see tropical plant species and attractive fish ponds.<br />

Fish pond inside the glass greenhouse<br />

Beyond the greenhouse and a nearby seedling house, striking landscapes<br />

44


Inside the glass greenhouse<br />

of garden flowers are exhibited at a plaza. The second Mugunghwa garden,<br />

in-house circle, hardwood and solitary forests are located to the left of the<br />

plaza, along with a picnic shelter to take a break. But remember -- there<br />

is no cafeteria inside the arboretum. For a clean environment, foods are<br />

allowed only at picnic shelters and you need to bring food by yourselves.<br />

It’s a unique experience for your children to have their meals surrounded<br />

by the calmness of the rose and tulip gardens, but keep in mind to take your<br />

left over trash with you. While picnicking nearby, there are life-size giraffe<br />

and horse sculptures built onto the lawn, and children can relish running on<br />

the soft grass around them.<br />

There are few things you have to keep in mind while visiting the arboretum.<br />

This arboretum is closed every Monday and on holidays. It is open from 9<br />

a.m. to 8 p.m. from April to October and 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. from November<br />

to March. For more information visit ex.co.kr/arboretum (Korean only).<br />

<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 45


Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />

CULTURE<br />

Ilwonsa Temple<br />

By SILAYAN CASINO<br />

Photos by Silayan Casino<br />

Korea is laden with Buddhist temples;<br />

they are plentiful. Often the temples<br />

have similar structures, two or three<br />

buildings, with one main one where the statues<br />

are and praying is done. The nature surrounding<br />

most Buddhist temples is beautiful, serene,<br />

peaceful and clean.<br />

There is one temple in Jeonju, however, which<br />

is rather different to most others you may have<br />

seen. This temple is called Ilwonsa. It is hidden<br />

among the hills above the Hyoja graveyard and<br />

belongs to the Taegojong order of Buddhism, the<br />

second largest order of Korean Buddhism (with<br />

around 3100 temples). What makes this order of<br />

Buddhism most distinct is that priests of the order<br />

can marry (while nuns cannot). Still, in most<br />

mountain temples like Ilwonsa, the monks remain<br />

unmarried. This temple also served as home to a<br />

famous monk, Jin Gong.<br />

Leading to the temple is a dirt road, not suitable<br />

for all cars. It’s a bit of a hike going up, and about<br />

10 minutes walking down. There is a parking area<br />

at the foot of the hill leading up to the temple,<br />

and on special days, such as Buddha’s Birthday,<br />

there may be one or two vehicles giving rides to<br />

temple visitors who may be elderly or physically<br />

challenged climbing up the hill.<br />

On Buddha’s Birthday itself, most temples have<br />

hung up many strings of lanterns to display all<br />

around the temple area. These are symbols of<br />

temple members’ devotion to Buddha, their<br />

god. They donate money to have a lantern hung<br />

up with a tag showing their name. Ilwonsa is<br />

no different. However, what is striking about<br />

Ilwonsa in even the everyday sense is the number<br />

of statues. All in all, this temple boasts more than<br />

12,000 statues.<br />

Walking through the gate, there is a small table<br />

46


with a food offering. To the right of the gate,<br />

there are several statues behind bars. To the left of<br />

the gate, a little ways in, there is a kind of “statue<br />

garden,” a big statue of Buddha and various other<br />

figures. The garden extends to other parts of the<br />

temple area, with some parts yet unused, allowing<br />

for more statues to be placed. The statues have<br />

small plaques with the name of the believers who<br />

donated them, or for whom they were donated.<br />

Even before a child is born, their family could<br />

dedicate a statue to them. This person could then<br />

go to their statue and pray there, asking for blessings<br />

for their exam or job interview, for example.<br />

There are stairs leading up the hill and statues<br />

on either side of the staircase, as well as smaller<br />

temples because there is more to look at and see.<br />

Observing what visitors do on entering this<br />

temple, one could see people using a small dipper<br />

to pour water over a smaller Buddha statue,<br />

fronted by flowers, followed by bowing from<br />

the ground up three times. They then bow to<br />

other statues in the same way. People come and go,<br />

paying their respects, greeting the Buddha. Like<br />

many such indoor places, shoes are left at the door.<br />

Ilwonsa is 20-30 years old and has a membership<br />

of about 500 patrons. As a local visitor explained,<br />

many have individual statues to which they pray.<br />

This would explain the unusually large number of<br />

statues in the temple area.<br />

The temple hours are 9 am – 6 pm. All visitors<br />

areas of statues on one side, and a kitchen with a<br />

tent for eating on the other. Coming down from<br />

the temple on the slope, not stairs, you’ll notice<br />

several statues even colored black. All the others<br />

are a kind of gray stone color. One area houses<br />

some statues in glass cases, with the remaining<br />

statues somewhat clustered… an interesting<br />

setup for those familiar with the typical Korean<br />

temples. It seems more attractive than other<br />

are welcome. The temple can be accessed by<br />

those without cars via a short hike up Hwangbang<br />

Mountain, using a trail through the Hyoja<br />

cemetery.<br />

Its distinct aesthetic and overabundance of<br />

Buddhist statues make Ilwonsa either just a<br />

mystifying hike or a photographic dream, so be<br />

sure to bring your sense of wonder as well as<br />

your camera to enjoy the site at its best.<br />

<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 47


Hidden Gems of Jeonju<br />

FICTION<br />

As American as Avocado<br />

By BEN BRAINERD<br />

It’s staring at me. It doesn’t actually have<br />

eyes, but somehow it’s still staring at me.<br />

Just sitting there. Staring. Like it's somehow<br />

going to convince me to pick it up through sheer<br />

awkwardness.<br />

“Dooooo iiiit,” it croons. For reasons that shall<br />

be forever unknown the voice in my head sounds<br />

like the love child of James Earl Jones and Isaac<br />

Hayes.<br />

“No. I hate you.” The old lady perusing the<br />

oranges looks at me. Oops. Probably better if I<br />

don’t have my crazy-person conversation with an<br />

inanimate object out loud.<br />

“But I’m delicious!”<br />

“No, actually you’re not.”<br />

“I’m a super-food!”<br />

“No, you're hipster food. There is, in fact, a<br />

difference between the two. Plus you look like<br />

an alien’s testicle.” I resist the urge to take a pair<br />

of them and dangle them by my crotch. I have<br />

the same urge every time I see them at a store. I<br />

haven't succumbed. Yet.<br />

“I’m versatile! You can make so many different<br />

things with me!”<br />

“I’m sure I could. If, you know, I don't even cook!<br />

I can light spaghetti on fire. I don’t know why I’m<br />

even talking to you… Er, looking at you.”<br />

I turn to leave and almost run over oranges-lady.<br />

“You like avocado?” She smiles at me, and I feel<br />

that grandmotherliness that the old ladies here can<br />

turn on and off like a light switch. “Very good!<br />

Rare in Korea. You like?”<br />

“Yes. Yes I do.” No. No I don’t. Not even a little<br />

bit. But I'm pretty sure this lady doesn't have<br />

enough English for me to unload my true feelings<br />

about the avocados. She certainly doesn’t have<br />

the time. Plus I'd look (even more) like a crazy<br />

person if I tried to explain it. So even though I’m<br />

now pretty much obligated to buy one, it’s just<br />

easier to say “Yes.”<br />

I don’t hate avocados. I think they’re weird<br />

looking and they taste funny. And, crazy internal<br />

monologues aside, I really do think they might be<br />

sentient, and quite probably alien in origin. But I<br />

don’t hate them.<br />

I can’t tell the nice lady about the creeping sense<br />

of guilt the avocado makes me feel. People<br />

talk about America exporting its culture, and<br />

sometimes it seems like it’s the worst parts of that<br />

culture that get boxed up and shipped overseas.<br />

Michael Bay and 14 more Transformers movies.<br />

Skinny jeans. Artisanal anything. Hipsters. I<br />

feel like I should apologize for the fact that the<br />

hipsters, with their odd marketing prowess, have<br />

contaminated traditional culture with their talk of<br />

super-foods and their general… hipster-ness.<br />

If I could, I would tell her that this avocado is<br />

a symbol for all the things I didn’t expect when<br />

I moved to Korea. That I thought I was leaving<br />

behind all the parts of America that I can’t stand.<br />

48


Starbucks. Celebrities and reality TV. Hipster<br />

food…<br />

Ok, I didn’t really think I was going to escape<br />

Starbucks. I’m not that optimistic. I mean, they<br />

have a Starbucks in Antarctica, there's gonna be a<br />

few dozen in Seoul.<br />

I expected literally everything to be different. A<br />

whole new world. Different culture and all that.<br />

And things are different, don't get me wrong.<br />

Every day I go out and discover something new<br />

and awesome. A cool new restaurant. A facet of<br />

Korean culture that was previously unknown to<br />

me. A cool looking house. An oddly specific shop<br />

selling something so niche that I’m amazed it<br />

warrants its own storefront. I swear on a stack of<br />

bibles I found a shop selling doll legs in the back<br />

corner of a market.<br />

But so many of the things I thought would be<br />

different… aren’t. Starbucks is everywhere. If<br />

there’s not a Starbucks within arm's reach there's<br />

almost certainly another giant chain coffee shop<br />

for you to slake your caffiene demon. Cebrity<br />

culture is insane here. But it’s easier to ignore<br />

because I don’t speak the language or watch TV.<br />

Hipster stuff, though…<br />

But it’s still different. Very different. The<br />

thing they don't tell you about that sheer sea of<br />

differences is that it makes those things that have<br />

stayed the same all the more noticeable. Yes,<br />

somehow avocados have become my culture<br />

shock totem.<br />

I wish I could tell her that, against all rhyme or<br />

reason, avocados make me homesick. Again, not<br />

because I like them, but because they’re familiar.<br />

The crazy-person conversations with the hipster<br />

food were a staple of my grocery runs back home.<br />

I’d argue with the avocados, get mocked by their<br />

buddies kale and quinoa. PBR would heckle<br />

me in the beer aisle. It’s insane, but no one has<br />

recently accused me of sanity. I’ve tried forming<br />

a relationship with some of the crazy ramen<br />

mascots, but it’s tough because we don’t speak<br />

the same language.<br />

Yes, the fantasy personas of food products that<br />

live inside my head speak a different language.<br />

See “no one has accused me of sanity”. I think<br />

it would be more insane if the Korean ramen<br />

mascots spoke English.<br />

So, yeah. The avocado that is staring at me is the<br />

living embodiment of everything that’s wrong<br />

with me, and everything that has gone wrong<br />

(and right!) with my Korean adventure. But<br />

I can’t tell the nice old lady this, because it is<br />

insane, and I've learned that I need to keep the<br />

insanity bottled up inside. Plus the whole “she<br />

doesn’t speak enough English” thing. Actually…<br />

I probably could just unload. She'd just smile and<br />

nod, like Koreans tend to do when I go outside<br />

their English comfort zone. It might be cathartic<br />

and...<br />

She’s looking at me funny again. How long have<br />

I been staring off into the distance this time?<br />

I throw my nemesis in my basket. Yeah, I like<br />

avocados. For as long as it takes to get home<br />

and shove it in the deepest, darkest corner of the<br />

fridge. Which means I’ll be having crazy-person<br />

conversations in my kitchen for the foreseeable<br />

future, talking to a food product I can’t stand as<br />

it shrivels and begins to look even more like an<br />

alien generative organ.<br />

This… This actually makes me happy. Maybe<br />

I’ll buy some googly eyes to stick on it. Might as<br />

well go all in on the insanity thing.<br />

<strong>JB</strong> LIFE! 49


Every region has its own local dialect. Embracing it is to embrace the local<br />

people, language, and culture in a warm and useful way. This month’s<br />

featured word used in the North Jeolla province is…..<br />

This is a word that can readily be used by anyone learning Korean at any<br />

level. It means 그래요 in standard Korean and can be used in much<br />

the same way. 그렇다, meaning to be that way, is a word that relies<br />

on the context of a conversation, and thus is utilized as a response<br />

to something already said.<br />

A : “오늘 못 갈 것 같아” / I don’t think that I will be able to go today<br />

B : “어, 그려?” / oh really? [Is it really that way?]<br />

This expression I used often when the user wants to express indifference<br />

or a slight feeling of being annoyed.<br />

A : “오늘 짜장면 먹을래?” / “Would you like to eat Jjajangmyeon today?”<br />

B : “어 그려” / “hm sure (why not)” [expressing indifference]<br />

A : “아니, 다른 거 먹자” / “nevermind.. Let’s eat something else”<br />

B : “그려, 빨리 먹으러 가자” / “fine, let’s just go eat” [slightly annoyed]<br />

Mastering this expression and using it in Jeollabukdo is bound to bring<br />

smiles and lighten up any conversation. This expression can also be used<br />

negatively by adding 안. Make sure to not get it confused with<br />

그리다 (그림을 그려요), the verb for drawing.


전라북도국제교류센터<br />

Jeollabuk-do Center for International Affairs<br />

2017 외국인 커뮤니티 지원사업 2017 外 国 人 社 区 援 助 业 务<br />

전라북도국제교류센터에서는 외국인 커뮤니티 활동을 활성화<br />

하고 도민과의 상호교류 및 우호증진을 위해 「전라북도 외국인<br />

커뮤니티 지원 사업」을 다음과 같이 시행하고자 공고합니다.<br />

1. 지원자격 : <strong>전북</strong>을 근거지로 두고 친목도모, 정보교환, 상호교류<br />

등 외국인으로 구성된 커뮤니티(모임)<br />

- 문화, 예술, 체육, 전시, 축제, 교육, 회의 관련 분야<br />

- 외국인의 생활편의 증진, 커뮤니티 활성화 등을 위한 분야<br />

- 2017년 상반기 중 개최가 가능한 행사<br />

2. 지원 범위<br />

- 재정지원 : ~최대 100만원 지원(현금지원 불가)<br />

3. 신청방법<br />

- 신청 및 모집기간 : 2017. 7. 5.(수) ~ 27(목)<br />

- 신청방법 : 전라북도국제교류센터 홈페이지 양식 다운로드 및<br />

작성→이메일 제출<br />

- 제출서류 : 커뮤니티 등록신청서, 커뮤니티지원금 지원서, 사업<br />

계획서<br />

▣ 문의처<br />

-전라북도국제교류센터 교류협력팀 T.063-214-5604<br />

Dự án hỗ trợ cộng đồng người<br />

nước ngoài năm 2017<br />

Nhằm tiếp sức cho cộng đồng người nước ngoài sinh<br />

sống tại Jeonbuk, hợp tác trao đổi để hiểu thêm về văn<br />

hóa các nước, nên Trung tâm hợp tác quốc tế tỉnh<br />

Jeollabukdo xin thông báo kế hoạch hỗ trợ cho cộng<br />

đồng người nước ngoài năm 2017 và rất mong nhận<br />

được sự tham gia của cộng đồng người nước ngoài tại<br />

tỉnh.<br />

1. Đối tượng hỗ trợ<br />

Nhóm cộng đồng người nước ngoài ở tỉnh Jeonbuk trên 10<br />

thành viên tổ chức 1 trong các sự kiện nhằm thúc đẩy tình<br />

hữu nghị, hướng tới sự thân thiện, trao đổi lẫn nhau, trao đổi<br />

thông tin,... như sau<br />

- Lĩnh vực văn hóa, nghệ thuật, thể dục thể thao, triển lãm,<br />

lễ hội, giáo dục, hội nghị.<br />

- Lĩnh vực liện quan đến gắn kêt cộng đồng, cải thiện đời<br />

sống tinh thần người nước ngoài<br />

- Sự kiện được tổ chức trong 6 tháng đầu năm<br />

2. Phạm vi hỗ trợ<br />

- Hỗ trợ về tài chính : ~ Hỗ trợ tối đa 1,000,000won (không hỗ trợ<br />

tiền mặt).<br />

3. Phương pháp đăng ký<br />

- Thời gian đăng ký : 2017. 7. 5 ~ 7. 27<br />

- Phương pháp đăng ký : Tải đơn xin đăng ký về và soạn<br />

thảo→Nộp đơn qua email (nlb1234@jbcia.or.kr)<br />

- Hồ sơ : Đơn xin, bản kế hoạch sự kiện<br />

▣ Địa chỉ liên lạc<br />

- Trung tâm hợp tác quốc tế Jeollabukdo - Nhóm Hợp tác<br />

giao lưu Tel.063-214-5604<br />

2017 外 国 人 社 区 援 助 业 务 为 了 外 国 人 社 区 活 动 的 活 性 化 ,<br />

加 强 全 北 市 民 与 外 国 人 之 间 的 相 互 交 流 , 增 进 友 谊 ,<br />

为 此 全 罗 北 道 国 际 交 流 中 心 支 援 外 国 人 的 社 区 活 动 ,<br />

通 知 如 下 ; 欢 迎 前 来 申 请<br />

1. 援 助 资 格 : 为 了 亲 密 相 处 , 相 互 交 流 , 在 全 罗 北 道 组 成 的 外 国<br />

人 社 区 ( 聚 会 )<br />

- 文 化 , 艺 术 , 体 育 , 展 览 , 教 育 , 会 议 等 有 关 活 动<br />

- 便 利 外 国 人 的 生 活 , 社 区 的 活 性 化<br />

- 2017 下 旬 可 以 举 行 的 活 动<br />

2. 援 助 范 围<br />

- 财 政 援 助 : ~ 最 高 100 万 元 可 以 援 助<br />

以 财 政 援 助 的 原 则 , 不 可 以 现 金 援 助<br />

3. 申 请 方 法<br />

- 申 请 日 期 : 2017. 7. 5 ~ 07. 27<br />

- 申 请 方 法 : 下 载 申 请 书 后 请 记 述 → 请 在 此 处 提 交<br />

- 提 交 文 件 : 申 请 书 , 活 动 计 划 书<br />

▣ 咨 询 电 话<br />

- 全 罗 北 道 国 际 交 流 中 心 交 流 合 作 组 T.063-214-5604<br />

Foreign Community<br />

Supporting Service 2017<br />

The <strong>JB</strong>CIA<br />

is currently looking to give financial assistance to any sort of<br />

hobby or activity group in the region that is composed mostly of<br />

foreign residents.<br />

1. Goal<br />

The goal of this program is to enhance the wellbeing of foreign<br />

residents while also promoting mutual exchange and friendship<br />

with local residents<br />

2. support Range<br />

Financial aid : Maximum 1,000,000 won<br />

(We do not support in cash)<br />

3. Application process<br />

- Application and recruitment period : 2017. 7. 5.(Wed.) ~ 27(Thu)<br />

- Method : Download the application(homepage) → submit by<br />

email<br />

- The documents for submission : Foreign Community Registration<br />

Application, Foreign Community assistance fund application,<br />

Business Plan<br />

▣ Contact<br />

- International Exchange and Cooperation team of <strong>JB</strong>CIA.<br />

T. 063-214-5604<br />

www.jbcia.or.kr / www.facebook.com/jbcia151001 / dunfailu@jbcia.or.kr / 063-214-5604

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