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TRIP PLANNER:<br />
TACOMA<br />
PG.82<br />
Walla Walla’s<br />
Poet Distiller<br />
Hot Tub<br />
Boats<br />
Roasted Heirloom<br />
Squash Salad<br />
to: You<br />
love: <strong>1889</strong><br />
2017<br />
Holiday<br />
Gift Guide<br />
<strong>1889</strong>mag.com<br />
$5.95 display until <strong>Jan</strong>uary 31, 2018<br />
LIVE THINK EXPLORE WASHINGTON<br />
<strong>Dec</strong>ember | <strong>Jan</strong>uary volume 6
BEND, OREGON<br />
Remember how much fun a winter family vacation can be in the<br />
mountain town of Bend, Oregon, where kids ski free at Mt. Bachelor.<br />
visitbend.com
A Poet’s Eye<br />
for Distilling<br />
photography by Bradley Lanphear<br />
When struggling to settle on a passion<br />
to pursue, why not choose two? For<br />
Katrina Roberts Barker and husband<br />
Jeremy Barker, poetry and distilling<br />
was a relationship worth sharing. Learn<br />
more about the Barkers’ story in Artist<br />
in Residence (pg. 34).<br />
2 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Katrina Roberts<br />
Barker inspects a bottle of peach-infused<br />
vodka. Walla Walla Distilling Co. offers<br />
steam punk-styled décor. Roberts Barker<br />
sifts through fresh grain.<br />
DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 3
Grant Gunderson<br />
FEATURES<br />
DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017 • volume 6<br />
64<br />
Flying High on Mount Baker<br />
Get inspired to start 2018 with a little more<br />
winter adventure with skiers and snowboarders<br />
shredding the slopes at Mt. Baker Ski Area.<br />
photography by Grant Gunderson<br />
50<br />
<strong>1889</strong>’s Holiday Gift Guide<br />
We searched high and low for the<br />
best Washington-made gifts for the<br />
holidays. Check out our picks from<br />
books to décor.<br />
photography by Emily Joan Greene<br />
58<br />
Washington’s Best Hot Springs<br />
When the weather turns, it doesn’t mean you<br />
have to stop exploring. Our picks for best hot<br />
springs in Washington will have you braving<br />
the rain and snow for a winter warmup.<br />
written by Catie Joyce-Bulay
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14<br />
DEPARTMENTS<br />
DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017 • volume 6<br />
LIVE<br />
14 SAY WA?<br />
If you’re looking for events to get you in the holiday spirit, we’ve got<br />
a couple picks. Plus, a recipe for chilled cider punch and an essay<br />
collection about pie and whiskey will set you up for a day by the fire.<br />
Russ Alman<br />
48<br />
76<br />
10<br />
11<br />
94<br />
96<br />
Editor’s Letter<br />
<strong>1889</strong> Online<br />
Map of Washington<br />
Until Next Time<br />
18 FOOD + DRINK<br />
With weather cooling, we have the best soups around the state. Plus, The<br />
Black Cypress in Pullman is the pride of the Palouse, and Anna Brones of<br />
the south sound area has a food publication that’s right for you.<br />
22 FARM TO TABLE<br />
Squash isn’t just for decoration, and the people at Imperial’s Garden<br />
in Wapato and Boldly Grown Farm in the Skagit Valley have plenty of<br />
varieties for you to try.<br />
26 HOME + DESIGN<br />
Designers take two Washington homes’ bathrooms from boring to<br />
brilliant. We’ve also got ideas for global-inspired accessories.<br />
32 MIND + BODY<br />
Juuso Välimäki, a Finnish defenseman for the Tri-City Americans, has<br />
his sights set on the NHL.<br />
34 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE<br />
The owners of Walla Walla Distilling Co. make wine, booze and lots and<br />
lots of art.<br />
THINK<br />
40 STARTUP<br />
Former Starbucks COO is creating Ocean5, the ultimate family gathering<br />
place in Gig Harbor.<br />
42 WHAT’S GOING UP<br />
Newsflash: your college campus has changed since you graduated. A<br />
look at three campuses getting facelifts.<br />
44 WHAT I’M WORKING ON<br />
Washington State University’s animal health school has a mission: to<br />
eliminate Africa’s rabies deaths.<br />
46 MY WORKSPACE<br />
Rob Henderson’s holly farm on Whidbey Island creates intricate wreaths,<br />
garlands and other holiday arrangements.<br />
48 GAME CHANGER<br />
Workers in the restaurant and service industry spend a lot of time helping<br />
us. Spokane nonprofit Big Table turns the tables to give them assistance.<br />
EXPLORE<br />
74 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT<br />
Climb aboard a Hot Tub Boat in Seattle’s Lake Union—it’s exactly what<br />
it sounds like, and it’s awesome.<br />
76 ADVENTURE<br />
Elk Ridge Campground near Yakima is a perfect jumping-off point for a<br />
snowmobile ride or a quieter snowshoe in true wilderness.<br />
80 LODGING<br />
The Historic Davenport Hotel in Spokane isn’t called Washington’s<br />
grandest hotel for nothing.<br />
COVER<br />
cover art by Brooke Miracle<br />
(see “2017 Holiday Gift Guide” pg. 50)<br />
6 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017<br />
82 TRIP PLANNER<br />
Get your culture fix in Tacoma, which is making a name for itself with<br />
museums, great restaurants and plenty of entertainment options.<br />
90 NORTHWEST DESTINATION<br />
Coeur d’Alene isn’t just for summer visits—the lakeside Idaho city is a<br />
worthy year-round destination.
CONTRIBUTORS<br />
ADAM SAWYER<br />
Writer<br />
Adventure<br />
EMILY JOAN GREENE<br />
Photographer<br />
2017 Holiday Gift Guide<br />
ALISON HIGHBERGER<br />
Writer<br />
Northwest Destination<br />
BRADLEY LANPHEAR<br />
Photographer<br />
Artist and Residence<br />
Adventure comes in many<br />
forms. Whether it’s age or a<br />
shift in perspective (probably<br />
both), the adventures I find<br />
myself drawn to these days<br />
angle more toward solitude<br />
and introspection than bursts<br />
of adrenaline. But having the<br />
opportunity to snowshoe<br />
to a humanless lake and<br />
snowmobile across high<br />
mountain ridges in the same<br />
weekend might be my ideal<br />
adventure at this stage. That’s<br />
where places like Elk Ridge<br />
come in handy.<br />
(pg. 76)<br />
I am a huge fan of the<br />
holidays, so when we got the<br />
opportunity to coordinate the<br />
shoot for the gift guide I was<br />
so excited. Meeting the <strong>1889</strong><br />
staff and being part of their<br />
holiday gift exchange was<br />
a real treat. The people, the<br />
festivities and the atmosphere<br />
were inspiring to capture. The<br />
products are all truly beautiful<br />
and hand-picked with care. I<br />
hope the piece inspires people<br />
to get out and buy local this<br />
holiday season.<br />
(pg. 50)<br />
I visit Coeur d’Alene, Idaho,<br />
often—it’s a half hour from<br />
my home in Spokane. It feels<br />
like Bend, Oregon’s cousin: a<br />
year-round mecca for people<br />
drawn to nature and lakes;<br />
charming and artsy with<br />
plenty of shops, restaurants,<br />
local beer and wine. I love to<br />
sit at the 110-year-old counter<br />
at Hudson’s Hamburgers<br />
for a $3 cheeseburger with<br />
sliced onions and pickles and<br />
special hot sauce. It’s retro<br />
fun and delicious.<br />
(pg. 90)<br />
I’ve always loved creating<br />
moody and dramatic images<br />
that play heavily on light and<br />
shadow. Most people wouldn’t<br />
consider it “luck” to have rain<br />
and wind on the day of a photo<br />
shoot, but it was exactly what<br />
I was hoping for and it all<br />
came together beautifully. The<br />
distillery became a context for<br />
a larger story intertwining their<br />
passions for craftsmanship,<br />
art and creativity. It’s not just<br />
about the spirits they make,<br />
but the spirit in which they<br />
make them.<br />
(pg. 34)<br />
8 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
EDITOR<br />
MANAGING EDITOR<br />
CREATIVE DIRECTOR<br />
DESIGN<br />
MARKETING + DIGITAL MANAGER<br />
WEBMASTER<br />
OFFICE MANAGER<br />
DIRECTOR OF SALES<br />
ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES<br />
BEERVANA COLUMNIST<br />
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS<br />
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS<br />
Kevin Max<br />
Sheila G. Miller<br />
Brooke Miracle<br />
Allison Bye<br />
Kelly Hervey<br />
Isaac Peterson<br />
Cindy Miskowiec<br />
Jenny Kamprath<br />
Cindy Guthrie<br />
Jenn Redd<br />
Jill Weisensee<br />
Jackie Dodd<br />
Marguerite Cleveland, Melissa Dalton, Alison Highberger,<br />
Catie Joyce-Bulay, Isaac Peterson, Charyn Pfeuffer, Ben Salmon,<br />
Adam Sawyer, Cara Strickland, Corinne Whiting<br />
Nancy Finneson, Emily Joan Greene, Grant Gunderson,<br />
Bradley Lanphear, Isaac Peterson, Ed Sozinho, Cameron Zegers<br />
Statehood Media<br />
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Portland, Oregon 97209<br />
<strong>1889</strong>mag.com/subscribe<br />
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appearing in <strong>1889</strong> Washington’s Magazine may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the express written Consent of the publisher. <strong>1889</strong> Washington’s<br />
Magazine and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these artiCles are not<br />
neCessarily those of <strong>1889</strong> Washington’s Magazine, Statehood Media or its employees, staff or management.<br />
DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 9
FROM THE<br />
EDITOR<br />
AT THIS JUNCTURE of the year, we recall the<br />
outgoing year with satisfaction, with riddance,<br />
with pride and even guilt. In any case, we practice<br />
an extra dose of compassion and gift-giving as part<br />
of a larger holiday tradition. In this, our last issue<br />
of 2017 and first of 2018, we conjure our best ideas<br />
for gift-giving while supporting local businesses<br />
across the state--oil paintings, jewelry, timeless<br />
Filson jackets and gift boxes of premium cuts of<br />
steak from Churchill’s Steakhouse. See page 50 for<br />
our annual gift guide.<br />
If compassion is a fixture of the season, it<br />
makes a permanent home in Kenya and Tanzania<br />
at a partnership between the Nelson Mandela<br />
African Institute of Science and Technology and<br />
Washington State University. The Paul G. Allen<br />
School of Animal Health has made it its mission<br />
to eradicate rabies, which is responsible for tens<br />
of thousands of deaths in Sub-Saharan Africa<br />
every year. We catch up with Guy Palmer, the<br />
program’s founding director on page 44 to talk<br />
about the end of rabies.<br />
Closer to home, food critic Kevin Finch learned<br />
that the smiling, polite servers making his<br />
restaurant visits pleasant were often struggling<br />
to make ends meet in their own lives. In 2009,<br />
Finch created Big Table, a nonprofit that brings<br />
restaurant industry workers together in a lavish<br />
dinner to honor their service made by some of<br />
the best chefs. Read about this Game Changer on<br />
page 48.<br />
Feeling overwhelmed by 2017? Make a dash for<br />
the relaxing comfort of a life-slowing hot spring.<br />
On page 58 you’ll find the start of a piece you don’t want<br />
to miss. Our picks for the best hot springs take us from<br />
secluded woods of the Olympic National Park to private<br />
resorts with claw foot tubs. In any of our five faves, you’ll<br />
find the spot to unplug, undress and unwind.<br />
If we must be honest with ourselves—and why not make<br />
that our New Year’s resolution—what we all really want is<br />
a hot tub set into the hull of a boat and then floated out<br />
to the middle of body of water and under the panorama<br />
of Seattle’s handsome skyline. Hot Tub Boats, it just so<br />
happens, does just that on Lake Union. Adam Karpenske<br />
floated this idea while living on a houseboat and brought<br />
it to life in 2012. Indulgent? Yes. But given to a close friend<br />
as a thinly veiled self-gift, you’re sure to make the cut for<br />
the six-person urban floating hot tub. See Travel Spotlight<br />
on page 74.<br />
If that doesn’t quite hit the spot, try pie and whiskey,<br />
born at Spokane’s Get Lit! literary festival. The result of a<br />
piemaker and an author, the Pie & Whiskey readings bring<br />
together the best things in life—books, booze and berries.<br />
Join this literary club on page 17.<br />
Among many fine travel pieces in this issue of <strong>1889</strong>, our<br />
Trip Planner to Tacoma will turn the most heads. An artbent<br />
family hits the City of Destiny’s museum row and<br />
a German bierhaus while moving between the historic<br />
and avant-garde. In the end, they learn to “live like the<br />
mountain is out” on page 82.<br />
From the bottom of our hearts, we thank you for giving<br />
us a wonderful inaugural year of <strong>1889</strong> Washington’s<br />
Magazine and look forward to exploring more inspiring<br />
places and open spaces in 2018. Happy holidays and cheers!<br />
10 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
<strong>1889</strong> ONLINE<br />
More ways to connect with your favorite Washington content<br />
<strong>1889</strong>mag.com | #<strong>1889</strong>washington | @<strong>1889</strong>washington<br />
ONLINE EXCLUSIVE<br />
Bradley Lanphear<br />
Go inside Walla Walla Distilling Company, where<br />
poetry and distilling mix, in our online video.<br />
<strong>1889</strong>mag.com/wallawalladistilling<br />
TAKE HOME YOUR FAVORITE COVERS<br />
photo by Annette Archuleta<br />
Beautiful old barn found along<br />
the Palouse scenic highway.<br />
washington: in focus<br />
Have a photo that captures your Washington experience? Share it<br />
with us by filling out the Washington: In Focus form on our website.<br />
If chosen, you’ll be published here.<br />
Wake up to <strong>1889</strong> with<br />
limited edition mugs<br />
featuring our cover<br />
photography. Keep a piece<br />
of your favorite magazine<br />
in your kitchen, or collect<br />
them all by purchasing a<br />
mug from each issue as<br />
they become available.<br />
<strong>1889</strong>mag.com/shop<br />
<strong>1889</strong>mag.com/in-focus<br />
DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 11
SAY WA? 14<br />
FOOD + DRINK 18<br />
FARM TO TABLE 22<br />
HOME + DESIGN 26<br />
MIND + BODY 32<br />
ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 34<br />
Bradley Lanphear<br />
pg. 34<br />
A bottle of Walla Walla Distilling Co. Brandy stands<br />
ready for pouring.
say wa?<br />
Tidbits & To-dos<br />
More From Macrina<br />
This popular neighborhood artisan<br />
bakery in Seattle has created a<br />
second cookbook highlighting its<br />
favorites from breads to pies and<br />
everything in between. Beautiful<br />
photography accompanies more<br />
than seventy sweet and savory<br />
recipes, all designed to inspire<br />
you to take to the kitchen<br />
and recreate some of your<br />
favorite treats.<br />
macrinabakery.com<br />
JonBoy Caramels<br />
This Seattle-based confectionery has caramelmaking<br />
down to a science. Specializing in creative<br />
flavors like molasses ginger and smoked whiskey<br />
with sea salt, these caramels have certainly grabbed<br />
our attention. Individually wrapped, tied up in perfect<br />
packaging and sweetened using the best ingredients<br />
available, this is gift for someone on your list with a<br />
sweet tooth.<br />
mark your<br />
calendar<br />
jonboycaramels.com<br />
Christmas Lighting Festival<br />
People come back to this<br />
event year after year to enjoy<br />
the magic of Leavenworth’s<br />
Bavarian-style village during<br />
the holidays. There are special<br />
lighting events the first three<br />
weekends in <strong>Dec</strong>ember, and<br />
the arrival of Santa, dixie bands<br />
and a hand bell choir make this<br />
event is the good old-fashioned<br />
family Christmas you’ve been<br />
looking for.<br />
leavenworth.org/event/<br />
Christmas-lighting-festival<br />
Russ Alman<br />
14 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
say wa?<br />
Christmas Ship Festival<br />
Celebrate the season with a<br />
moonlit cruise on a festive<br />
Christmas ship. A holiday<br />
tradition since 1949, you’ll enjoy<br />
sailing to oceanside communities<br />
in the Puget Sound while the<br />
onboard choir sings your favorite<br />
carols. Children can listen to<br />
Santa read “Twas the Night<br />
Before Christmas” and make<br />
holiday crafts. If you don’t want<br />
to take a cruise, you can view<br />
the ship from the shore with an<br />
evening bonfire on the sand.<br />
Jason Walsh<br />
argosycruises.com/argosycruises/christmas-ship-festival<br />
mark your<br />
calendar<br />
San Juan Island Sea Salt<br />
Made on one of the most beautiful islands in the<br />
Pacific Northwest, this unique brand relies on two<br />
key ingredients to make its mineral-rich and savory<br />
salt—sea water and sunshine. With the belief that sea<br />
salt should, in fact, taste like the sea, the company’s<br />
painstaking process ensures perfectly pinchable salt<br />
delivered in adorable little wooden salt boxes.<br />
sanjuanislandseasalt.com<br />
The Soap Chest<br />
This luxurious soap brand got its start in 2000 with<br />
one goal in mind—to create a natural handmade soap<br />
that incorporates homegrown herbs, local honey and<br />
goat milk. Each bar is hand cut with care to ensure a<br />
truly custom product perfect for gift-giving (or keeping<br />
for yourself). Scents include Spiced Apple Cider and<br />
Sunriver Sage.<br />
soapchest.com<br />
DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 15
say wa?<br />
Musician<br />
Between Fear<br />
and Love<br />
Pleasure Systems explores<br />
life’s intersections<br />
written by Ben Salmon<br />
Heidi Kleder<br />
Clarke Sondermann’s new solo project takes a look at relationships.<br />
PLEASURE SYSTEMS’ NEW album,<br />
Antumbra Pull, is all about intersections:<br />
between fear and love, folk-pop songs and<br />
electronic sounds, ultra-personal lyrics and<br />
much-needed catharsis. It’s the solo project of<br />
Clarke Sondermann, a 21-year-old Olympiabased<br />
singer-songwriter who also plays<br />
rock music with his band The Washboard<br />
Abs. Pleasure Systems is for exploring, said<br />
Sondermann, who entered his first-ever “healthy<br />
long-term relationship” in the past year. “I have<br />
a lot of relationship-based trauma in my past,”<br />
he said, “(so) I picked these songs because they<br />
explore the themes of balancing that trauma with<br />
trying to open up to the vulnerability of being in<br />
a relationship.” The eleven tracks on Antumbra<br />
Pull exist in their own beautiful little world,<br />
where clicks, bloops, buzzes and whirs flutter<br />
around Sondermann’s irrepressible melodies,<br />
which always shine through the charming,<br />
home-recorded haze. Sondermann thinks of<br />
Antumbra Pull as a thank-you note of sorts to<br />
his relationship partner, and while some of the<br />
songs draw from intense, deeply felt feelings,<br />
he said the opportunity to be brutally honest is<br />
worth it. “It feels really cathartic to me to be able<br />
to process my experiences through music and<br />
ultimately share them,” Sondermann said. “It<br />
feels like a big release of those experiences more<br />
than just releasing an album.”<br />
Listen on Spotify<br />
16 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
say wa?<br />
Bibliophile<br />
Pie & Whiskey …<br />
and Great Writing<br />
Readings spark essay collection<br />
interview by Cara Strickland<br />
SIX YEARS AGO, Kate Lebo, author of The<br />
Commonplace Book of Pie and Pie School, and<br />
Sam Ligon, professor and novelist, hosted<br />
the first Pie & Whiskey reading in Spokane,<br />
born of their experiences that people become<br />
convivial around sugar and booze. The event<br />
was a hit, and now happens every April at<br />
the same time as Spokane’s Get Lit! literary<br />
festival. Their book is a collection of essays,<br />
stories and poems, paired with recipes for pie<br />
(and some for cocktails). You’ll find words<br />
from Pie & Whiskey readers, as well as new<br />
pieces written especially for the collection.<br />
We chatted with the editors to give you a<br />
taste of how this collection came to be.<br />
Adriana <strong>Jan</strong>ovich<br />
Sam Ligon and Kate Lebo, founders of Pie & Whiskey, now have a new book.<br />
This book grew out of an event the<br />
two of you masterminded. Would you<br />
tell me a little bit about how it came<br />
about and what it’s like now?<br />
KL: We were at a writing conference.<br />
Writers are weirdos and often nervous<br />
about talking to each other. We had this<br />
party, we made this pie and then threw<br />
in a bottle of whiskey. All of a sudden<br />
the writers could talk to each other.<br />
SL: We just did it the first year for fun.<br />
The next year we made three pies and<br />
asked all the writers to come.<br />
KL: Commonplace Book of Pie was<br />
coming out, and Sam had the brilliant<br />
idea to take the social buzz that we had<br />
kind of noticed from our pie and whiskey<br />
gatherings and turn it into a really fun<br />
community reading. We asked a baker’s<br />
dozen of Spokane-based writers to<br />
write on either pie or whiskey. We made<br />
ten pies.<br />
SL: Maybe we had six fifths (of<br />
whiskey) total.<br />
KL: We were hoping that fifty people<br />
would show up. Something like 200<br />
people showed up. The next year we did<br />
twenty pies, we got double the amount<br />
of whiskey. Three hundred people<br />
came. Now our numbers are hovering<br />
between 300 and 400 every year. It’s<br />
been really fun to keep tapping all the<br />
great writers in the Inland Northwest—<br />
we’ve even expanded to some Seattle<br />
and Montana writers.<br />
SL: We gave the writers prompts. We<br />
said, ‘This is about the pie, it’s about the<br />
whiskey, and it’s about you, in that exact<br />
order.’ They brought incredibly good<br />
writing to the event.<br />
What made you decide it was time for<br />
a book?<br />
SL: Each event we do in Spokane<br />
generates a little mini-book of the<br />
reading. We had a bunch of those and the<br />
writing was so good we thought, ‘Should<br />
we collect these in a book?’ The answer<br />
was yes. Then<br />
we got to add<br />
to it. We asked<br />
eight people<br />
to contribute<br />
larger pieces, Kate got to write<br />
killer pie recipes based on those longer<br />
pieces, and I wrote cocktail recipes.<br />
What are you hoping to leave readers<br />
with as they read this collection?<br />
SL: We want them to have fun with it.<br />
We think the book is playful.<br />
KL: And that you can find fantastic<br />
writing within this kind of sweet package.<br />
I’ve always thought of writing about pie in<br />
particular as this way to approach really<br />
difficult subjects through something<br />
that is quite easy and sweet and that<br />
everybody loves. If I start with a subject<br />
everybody has an interest in, I can do a<br />
lot of surprising things with it and get to<br />
harder places.<br />
DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 17
food + drink<br />
Recipe Card<br />
recipe courtesy of<br />
Woodinville Whiskey Co.<br />
Chilled Cider Punch<br />
20 ounces whiskey<br />
40 ounces apple cider<br />
or apple juice<br />
25 ounces hard cider<br />
60 ounces ginger beer<br />
Orange bitters<br />
Combine all ingredients in<br />
large bowl. Add many dashes<br />
of orange bitters. Garnish<br />
with lemon wedges and<br />
cinnamon sticks.<br />
Beervana<br />
Fresh Hops and Near Misses<br />
written by Jackie Dodd<br />
IT STARTED WITH the best of intentions, as most things do. A campsite<br />
near the Fresh Hop Festival in Yakima would make a great home base for a<br />
weekend of beer and overindulgence. It didn’t turn out quite as expected, and<br />
in some ways that was the best part.<br />
After a late arrival Friday night, we stumbled out of our respective tents<br />
early Saturday morning as the sun was just starting to chase the chill from<br />
the air. As the smell of fresh coffee and stale beer filled the air, a sheriff’s<br />
car pulled up near our campsite. “Have you seen this man? He’s wanted,”<br />
the deputy asked, holding up a black-and-white mugshot printed on cheap<br />
paper. As we stared at the image of a shaved-head man, I noticed three more<br />
deputies walking in lockstep to other camps. “Does this have to do with the<br />
freshly dug grave?” One of the men at our campsite had heard a rumor the<br />
night before. He’d blown it off as exaggeration until this very moment. “All<br />
I can tell you is that he’s wanted and last spotted in this campground,” the<br />
deputy replied. After confirming that the unnamed man was both armed and<br />
dangerous, he left us to wallow in the regret of our decision to camp.<br />
In that moment I remembered a conversation I’d had with a friend who<br />
owns a gorgeous hops field—Morrier Ranch—just down the street from Bale<br />
Breaker Brewery, less than 2 miles away. She’d offered to let us camp at her<br />
place, on the edge of the hop field.<br />
A few frantic texts later, the invitation was renewed and the decision was<br />
made: we’d spend Fresh Hop Fest camping, yes, but camping on the edge<br />
of a hops field. The sunny Saturday afternoon spent setting up tents in the<br />
expansive field dissolved into an evening at Yakima’s Fresh Hop Fest. The<br />
festival was exactly what we wanted in every way—people we knew from<br />
the beer industry excited to see each other in the wild, pint after pint of beer<br />
infused with the lovely lupulin oils that only comes from beer brewed with<br />
hops right off the bine, and the safety of knowing we wouldn’t be sharing a<br />
campsite with a wanted man.<br />
We returned to “camp” to find a raging campfire surrounded by people<br />
who love hops as much as we do, ready to share more beer and nearly<br />
endless laughs. What could have been a disaster turned into an unforgettable<br />
weekend due to the simple generosity of a hop farmer. After all, that’s what<br />
beer is—a community. We stick together, we help each other out, we do what<br />
we can when we can. Thank God for beer people.<br />
18 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
WITH THOMAS RHETT<br />
OLD DOMINION<br />
& BRANDON LAY<br />
M A Y 2 2 A T C E N T U R Y L I N K F I E L D<br />
CENTURYLINK FIELD | SEATTLE, WA<br />
COMING TO CENTURYLINK FIELD SUMMER 2018<br />
BUY TICKETS NOW AT CENTURYLINKFIELD.COM
food + drink<br />
CRAVINGS<br />
BREAKFAST<br />
Prepare to wait when you head to<br />
local favorite New Moon Cooperative<br />
Café—it will be worth it. Feast on<br />
blackberry French toast (smothered<br />
in housemade blackberry jam),<br />
or sink into a plate of biscuits<br />
and gravy (with sausage gravy or<br />
vegan mushroom). Whatever your<br />
breakfast preferences, this is the<br />
perfect way to start your day.<br />
113 4TH AVENUE W<br />
OLYMPIA<br />
newmooncafe.coop<br />
Gastronomy<br />
Anna Brones<br />
written by Cara Strickland<br />
BORN AND RAISED west of Tacoma, Anna Brones lived in Paris and Portland before<br />
returning home to Washington. She’s written several books, including The Culinary<br />
Cyclist, a love letter to biking and food; Best Served Wild, a cookbook for outdoor<br />
adventures; Fika: The Art of the Swedish Coffee Break, which serves as a tribute to her<br />
Swedish roots, and her latest, Live Lagom, which explores the Scandinavian concept<br />
of lagom, loosely translated as “the right amount” (with recipes, of course). She’s the<br />
founder of Foodie Underground, a website that started as a way to explore whatever<br />
was under the radar in the food world, and now houses healthy and Scandinavian<br />
recipes. Her indie publication Comestible carries forward her vision, providing an<br />
alternative to traditional food media. “I wanted a publication that focused on other<br />
angles of food besides the final plate,” Brones said.<br />
SOUTH SOUND<br />
annabrones.com<br />
Author and food enthusiast Anna Brones.<br />
Jenny Nichols<br />
ICE CREAM<br />
At Mallard Ice Cream, you’ll find<br />
sweet treats made five gallons<br />
at a time right there in the shop<br />
in a variety of flavors, from the<br />
most comforting (like Mint Oreo),<br />
to the ones you just have to try<br />
(like Frankincense).<br />
1323 RAILROAD AVENUE<br />
BELLINGHAM<br />
mallardicecream.com<br />
FOOD FOR<br />
SPECIAL DIETS<br />
Whether you’re fleeing gluten, dairy<br />
or another common allergen, Nana<br />
Kate is on your team. An allergy<br />
warrior herself, she wanted to create<br />
a place where she could eat. Calling<br />
upon local ingredients and family<br />
recipes, this is a great place for<br />
breakfast or lunch.<br />
432 E GOODLANDER ROAD<br />
SELAH<br />
nanakates.com<br />
GLÜWEIN<br />
This spicy, German red wine is a festive<br />
holiday treat, perfect for drinking<br />
warm after skiing. Sample a variety<br />
at the annual Christmas Lighting in<br />
Leavenworth, and enjoy seasonally<br />
at Goose Ridge, Basel Cellars and<br />
Wine Girl Wines, and year round at<br />
Swakane Winery. For another twist,<br />
stop by Baroness Cellars for a white<br />
version—Engelwein.<br />
MULTIPLE LOCATIONS<br />
LEAVENWORTH<br />
20 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
food + drink<br />
BEST PLACES FOR<br />
SOUPS<br />
CHELSEA FARMS<br />
OYSTER BAR<br />
This chowder with fresh<br />
clams, pork belly and<br />
heirloom potatoes isn’t<br />
traditional, but one bite in<br />
and you won’t care. Creamy<br />
and rich, this is the perfect<br />
way to enjoy the local bounty.<br />
222 CAPITAL WAY N<br />
OLYMPIA<br />
chelseafarms.net<br />
ROCKET MARKET<br />
Several healthy seasonal<br />
soups rotate daily at this<br />
combination gas station/deli/<br />
European grocery store. Eat<br />
in with a glass of wine, or take<br />
your soup home.<br />
726 E 43RD AVENUE<br />
SPOKANE<br />
rocketmarket.com<br />
INFINITE SOUPS<br />
The daily-changing menu<br />
features sixteen soups,<br />
with options for vegans<br />
and vegetarians as well as<br />
carnivores and those who<br />
prefer a little soup with their<br />
cream. If the decision is<br />
paralyzing, never fear—you<br />
can sample before you buy.<br />
445 TACOMA AVENUE S<br />
TACOMA<br />
infinitesoups.com<br />
STONE SOUP CAFE<br />
Every day, at both locations,<br />
you’ll find the standby<br />
chicken enchilada soup along<br />
with a soup of the day and a<br />
soup of the week.<br />
703 THE PKWY<br />
RICHLAND<br />
105 E ALDER STREET<br />
WALLA WALLA<br />
stonesoupcafe.net<br />
Stephen Devine<br />
Dining<br />
The Black Cypress<br />
written by Cara Strickland<br />
Eight years ago, Nick Pitsilionis opened a restaurant in Pullman, a town known mostly for<br />
Washington State University. He was a transplant to the area, born in Greece, splitting<br />
his time between there and Alaska. In both places, his family owned restaurants, and he<br />
learned the value of simple, delicious food. His travels sent him all over the world—he<br />
spent time working for The French Laundry before settling on the Palouse. Pitsilionis<br />
chose to create a menu that allowed room for innovation, but mainly followed his<br />
philosophy of using few ingredients, getting the best ones available, and doing the best<br />
he could by those ingredients. Just before signing the lease, Pitsilionis had a dream about<br />
a black cypress, which are often planted near graveyards in the Mediterranean. “They<br />
point toward heaven,” he said. Clearly, this was no bad omen, but rather a signal that<br />
what you’ll find inside this restaurant is a little taste of heaven.<br />
215 EAST MAIN STREET<br />
PULLMAN<br />
theblackcypress.com<br />
Stephen Devine<br />
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Spaghetti Pomodoro. Orange Explosion chocolate dish<br />
served last Valentine’s Day. The interior of The Black Cypress.<br />
Stephen Devine<br />
DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 21
Farm to Table<br />
Hardy Squash,<br />
Hearty Dishes<br />
Enjoying the season’s cornucopia of flavors<br />
written by Corinne Whiting<br />
photography by Cameron Zegers<br />
22 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
farm to table<br />
THE SEASON’S UPON US<br />
when we happily fill our homes<br />
with Scandinavian-inspired<br />
hygge —think flickering candles,<br />
cozy blankets and ambient<br />
background tunes. During these shorter,<br />
darker days, we also bring to the table<br />
hearty soups and soothing stews, chock<br />
full of veggies and starches like the mighty<br />
winter squash.<br />
Squash, the hardiest member of the<br />
cucurbit family (which also includes<br />
pumpkins, cucumbers and melons), grows<br />
well in most parts of the Pacific Northwest.<br />
Typically divided into summer and winter<br />
varieties, squash has healthful qualities<br />
like significant amounts of antioxidant<br />
carotenoids. In even better news, winter<br />
squash contains anti-viral, anti-bacterial<br />
and anti-inflammatory substances and is<br />
especially high in vitamins A and C and<br />
five B vitamins.<br />
“I love when autumn rolls around and<br />
hard squashes come into season,” said<br />
executive chef Shawn Applin of Outlier,<br />
located at Kimpton Hotel Monaco Seattle.<br />
“They lend themselves nicely to being<br />
manipulated in several different manners.<br />
There are many different varietals—from<br />
acorn, butternut, blue hubbard, spaghetti<br />
to kaboch. There is a natural sweetness<br />
and nuttiness that varies from variety to<br />
variety. They make great soups and stews<br />
as well as salads and accompaniments to<br />
main dishes.”<br />
Applin gets his squash from Frank’s<br />
Quality Produce, a family-owned and<br />
operated stand that’s enjoyed a strong<br />
presence in Pike Place Market for four<br />
generations. In turn, Frank’s sources its<br />
squash from Imperial’s Garden, a familyowned<br />
and -operated producer situated<br />
150 miles southeast in Wapato.<br />
The Imperial family began its farming<br />
journey in the Philippines, where they<br />
grew rice and tobacco. In 1983, Mamerto<br />
and Antipolo Imperial immigrated to<br />
Wapato from Sta. Maria, Ilocos Sur. They<br />
began working on relatives’ farms before<br />
starting their own farming business on 40<br />
acres in 1985. Today, the children carry on<br />
their parents’ legacy.<br />
Manuel Imperial credits the knowledge<br />
that his team feeds “millions of people” as<br />
the most rewarding part of his work. “It’s<br />
like anything in life,” he said. “You learn<br />
from doing it every day. Yes we make<br />
mistakes, but we keep going.” The 1,000-<br />
acre farm grows an array of produce for<br />
the community and wholesale buyers,<br />
including asparagus in the early spring,<br />
corn in July and pumpkins and squash<br />
(about thirty varieties) in the fall.<br />
Meanwhile, in the lush Skagit Valley,<br />
squash thrives on Jacob Slosberg and<br />
Amy Frye’s Boldly Grown Farm. Located<br />
at Viva Farms in Burlington, this small,<br />
certified organic, family operation focuses<br />
primarily on storage crops for sale over the<br />
fall and winter months.<br />
The bounty is vast: winter squash,<br />
carrots, beets, potatoes, onions, garlic,<br />
leeks, radicchio, broccoli, cauliflower,<br />
cabbage, kale, collards, Swiss<br />
chard, kohlrabi, celery,<br />
celeriac,<br />
rutabagas<br />
and winter<br />
DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 23
farm to table<br />
radishes. This season, the couple grew<br />
twelve varieties of winter squash, plus<br />
specialty varieties for its winter CSA. “It’s<br />
such a versatile fall crop—you can cook<br />
it so many ways!” Frye said. “A few of<br />
our favorites are squash and black bean<br />
tacos, delicata rings with maple syrup,<br />
squash chili or a curried squash soup.”<br />
The squash gets harvested between<br />
early September and early October and<br />
put into storage to sell through the fall<br />
and winter. “This year we harvested<br />
twenty-four pallet-sized bins of squash,<br />
and we’ll likely have at least some of<br />
it available through February,” Frye<br />
explained. “Storage can sometimes be<br />
tricky—you need to get the squash cured<br />
properly and then store it at the proper<br />
temperature and humidity for it to keep.<br />
But part of our goal is to extend the<br />
availability of local food into the winter<br />
months.”<br />
Most of Boldly Grown’s squash that<br />
lands in Seattle is sold via the Puget<br />
Sound Food Hub, a farmer-owned co-op<br />
that provides aggregation, distribution<br />
and marketing services to farms. “Selling<br />
through the Food Hub means that we<br />
can spend more of our time on the farm,<br />
since we only need to deliver to the local<br />
aggregation site, and customers benefit<br />
by being able to access a wide range of<br />
products from multiple farms,” Frye said.<br />
The squash has shown up on menus at<br />
Canlis, Bar Ferdinand, DERU Market,<br />
Seattle Culinary Academy and various<br />
Bon Appétit food-service locations (such<br />
as at the Amazon campus), plus venues<br />
in Bellingham and on the islands.<br />
The hard-working couple, who have an<br />
8-month-old son, lists time management<br />
as their biggest challenge. “Our fall<br />
harvest season is quite hectic, to say<br />
the least, as we manage the farm, just<br />
the two of us, with a bit of part-time<br />
help,” Frye said. But the rewards prove<br />
tremendous. “Whether it’s a restaurant<br />
or CSA member, that positive feedback<br />
that your carrot is the best carrot they’ve<br />
ever tasted helps us remember why we<br />
do what we do and keeps us motivated<br />
through the crunch times.”<br />
24 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
home + design<br />
Roasted Heirloom Squash Salad (with raddichio,<br />
Calabrian chile-maple vinaigrette and hazelnuts)<br />
SEATTLE / Outlier at Kimpton Hotel Monaco<br />
Shawn Applin<br />
SERVES 4-6<br />
FOR SALAD<br />
1 acorn squash<br />
1 butternut squash<br />
1 blue hubbard squash<br />
1 kabocha squash<br />
2 heads raddichio chicory<br />
1 cup hazelnuts, toasted<br />
¼ cup sage leaves, julienned<br />
FOR VINAIGRETTE<br />
5-6 Calabrian chilies<br />
½ cup white balsamic vinegar<br />
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil<br />
½ cup brown butter, melted<br />
2 tablespoon honey<br />
2-3 shallots, minced<br />
2 cloves garlic, minced<br />
3-4 leaves sage, chopped<br />
Salt and pepper to taste<br />
Washington Recipes<br />
Savory Squash<br />
Chop the chilies and sage and combine with the shallots, garlic, honey, butter,<br />
vinegar and extra-virgin olive oil. Season to taste and set aside.<br />
For the salad, cut each squash variety into a different shape. For instance,<br />
the acorn squash makes a good wedge, while the butternut squash could<br />
be diced and delicate can be peeled and cut into rings. Season them all and<br />
roast separately until slightly browned and cooked through, but not super<br />
soft. Combine the squash with the radicchio and dress with a bit of the<br />
dressing. <strong>Dec</strong>oratively arrange the squash on the plate and garnish with the<br />
julienne of fresh sage and chopped toasted hazelnuts.<br />
Butternut Squash Soup<br />
ROYAL CITY / El Gaucho<br />
Jonathan Garcia<br />
SERVES 6-8<br />
2 ½ pounds butternut squash<br />
5 cups whipping cream<br />
1 teaspoon fresh rosemary<br />
1 teaspoon fresh thyme<br />
1 teaspoon El Gaucho<br />
Steak Seasoning*<br />
¼ ounce pistachios<br />
¼ ounce sliced almonds<br />
¼ ounce pine nuts<br />
¼ ounce walnut pieces<br />
¼ ounce golden raisins<br />
¼ teaspoon El Gaucho<br />
Diablo Spice*<br />
¼ teaspoon curry powder<br />
spice<br />
1 tablespoon honey<br />
1 teaspoon bacon<br />
Chives<br />
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Toss 1-inch cubed butternut squash with olive<br />
oil and garlic in a large bowl, and season with salt and black pepper. Arrange<br />
the coated squash on a baking sheet and roast in the preheated oven until<br />
squash is tender and lightly browned, 25 to 30 minutes. Let rest until cool.<br />
Blend with cream in a blender. Add thyme, rosemary and steak seasoning<br />
to taste. In a separate bowl, combine honey, curry and diablo spice with a<br />
fork to make sure the spices are well-mixed. Add nuts and raisins and mix.<br />
Heat soup and pour into serving bowl. Sprinkle nut and raisin mixture on<br />
the top with bacon bits and chives for garnish.<br />
*El Gaucho seasonings can be bought at Metropolitan Market, Zupan’s, in El<br />
Gaucho restaurants or at Amazon.com.<br />
Check out our website for Westward’s recipe for Radiatore with Butternut-<br />
Taleggio Fonduta and Roasted Delicata Squash, or find additional recipes<br />
at <strong>1889</strong>mag.com/recipes<br />
Roasted heirloom squash<br />
salad from Outlier.<br />
DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 25
home + design<br />
Make It Personal<br />
Two boring bathrooms become luxurious<br />
retreats with custom tweaks<br />
written by Melissa Dalton<br />
Shoreline: A conventional hall bath<br />
converted to a sanctuary<br />
IN THE EARLY ’90S, Carolyn Gray bought a 1954 rambler in Shoreline<br />
that had good bones, but was a fixer-upper. “It had a solid foundation,”<br />
she said. “And I had lots of potential ideas.” Since she works full-time<br />
as a nurse, she undertook her renovations one room at a time over the<br />
ensuing years. Having addressed her master bathroom, she tackled<br />
the hall bath in 2014, when its increasingly degraded finishes started<br />
to produce mold issues. “I didn’t use it very much,” she said. “It was<br />
probably the worst room in the house.” Gray asked her friend, architect<br />
Scott Becker, to intervene.<br />
As an inveterate traveler, Gray wanted the new bathroom to evoke<br />
some of her experiences in countries like Bali, Indonesia and Iceland,<br />
where she’d had memorable soaks in natural hot springs and pools. “She<br />
had great references from her travels,” Becker said. “I got very inspired.” As<br />
such, Becker sought to combine a natural materials palette with bespoke<br />
details for the redesign in order to create the ultimate spa-like retreat.<br />
Not only that, he liked the challenge of reinventing a conventional 5x8<br />
footprint. “It’s fun to be challenged to make something special,” he said.<br />
To start, he specified a slight bump-out on the exterior wall to increase<br />
the overall square footage. Then he designed an elevated stone soaking<br />
tub to be the room’s defining feature. “This is my attempt to conjure a<br />
combination of volcanic rock and stone, as well as a geode,” he said. “The<br />
idea was that you carve away to reveal this pool.” To that end, the interior<br />
of the tub is a basaltina slab cut into several pieces and seamlessly joined<br />
together by mason Mark Weishaar. The stone feels nice underhand and<br />
keeps water warm for hours. The handcrafted frame that surrounds the<br />
basin is composed of Iroko wood, which performs similarly to teak. It<br />
was cut into strips and carefully latticed together by local woodworker<br />
Barnes Wood. “The joinery is really precious,” Becker said. “We wanted<br />
to push the limits of what wood could do.”<br />
Becker then continued the Iroko in a deck across the toilet and had<br />
the floating vanity crafted out of the same material. Above it, he framed<br />
the mirror in brushed aluminum, fabricated by metalworker Argent, to<br />
match a sleek Artemide light fixture. Then he lined the tub walls with<br />
textural porcelain tile and included lit niches in the tub frame to spotlight<br />
the ceramics that Gray purchased from a Reykjavik artist.<br />
Now, the once conventional bath offers a multi-sensory experience.<br />
“It feels so nice when you’re in the tub to be sitting on a substance that’s<br />
organic, rather than plastic,” Gray said. Additionally, the new awning<br />
window (with obscured glass) can be opened to listen to the rain during<br />
a soak, while the back-painted glass tile on the ceiling reflects<br />
the ripples in the water’s surface. “I take a lot more baths,”<br />
Gray said. “It’s the gem of the house.”<br />
26 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
home + design<br />
Ed Sozinho<br />
The bathroom remodel evokes a spa-like atmosphere<br />
and has room for treasures picked up during travels.<br />
DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 27
home + design<br />
Nancy Finneson<br />
Carved wooden panels<br />
from Indonesia hang at<br />
the doorway. A vanity was<br />
added to the walk-in closet.<br />
Gig Harbor: From a blah<br />
build-out to a warm and<br />
contemporary en-suite<br />
SOMETIMES MORE SPACE doesn’t mean<br />
better. Such was the case for the principle<br />
bathroom in this Gig Harbor home. At<br />
272 square feet, the room clocked in larger<br />
than the average U.S. kitchen. However, as<br />
Gig Harbor-based DeMane Design interior<br />
designer and owner Nancy Finneson discovered, for a variety of<br />
reasons that generous footprint wasn’t very eye-catching. “When<br />
you walked in the room, the first thing you saw was the toilet,” she<br />
said. “It was quite horrible.”<br />
Additionally, a “monstrous jacuzzi tub” dominated one corner,<br />
leaving the shower “super tiny.” “Not for such a large bathroom<br />
would you ever expect such a tiny shower,” Finneson said. “It just<br />
didn’t look proportionate.”<br />
Nancy Finneson<br />
The single<br />
operable window<br />
provided nextto-no<br />
ventilation<br />
and could only be<br />
opened by climbing<br />
inside the tub. The area allotted to the closet seemed large but<br />
lacked storage. “It didn’t make a lot of sense,” Finneson said.<br />
The homeowners, a couple who had bought the house for their<br />
approaching retirement, hired her to step in and fix the dysfunction.<br />
In 2013, she gutted the room, leaving no wall untouched.<br />
Since this was her clients’ “forever” home, Finneson<br />
prioritized aging-in-place strategies in a new layout that<br />
facilitates ease of movement. First, she tucked a wall-hung<br />
28 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
home + design<br />
Nancy Finneson<br />
Nancy Finneson<br />
FROM LEFT A curbless shower with a bench.<br />
A herringbone backsplash gives texture.<br />
toilet out of sight in a separate water closet with an etched glass<br />
door, fostering privacy in the shared space. The monster tub was<br />
swapped out for a substantial curbless shower, complete with an<br />
in-situ bench, electric control panel for multiple showerheads<br />
and a barn-style sliding glass door that doesn’t swing into the<br />
walkway and obstruct circulation.<br />
Four new windows let in fresh air. The interior of the new vanity<br />
received hidden electrical outlets, so that no one has to unplug<br />
the hairdryer or fumble with tangled cords over the sink. The<br />
previously unserviceable closet now boasts customized fittings<br />
to make it a storage haven.<br />
For the color and materials palette, Finneson was inspired<br />
by a Turkish towel the client loved, and chose a neutral base<br />
accentuated with earthy tones and texture. Now, the double vanity<br />
presents a more natural focal point, thanks to a herringbone<br />
backsplash laid with custom stone tile from Pratt & Larson. The<br />
tile’s soft grey and caramel colors play off the waterfall-edged,<br />
Pental quartz counters and the cabinet-fronts, which have a<br />
driftwood-esque finish. Bronze hardware conveys a little gravitas.<br />
An adjacent wall-mounted fireplace brings toasty charm, while<br />
heated floors underfoot further dial up the cozy factor.<br />
To complete the scheme, Finneson incorporated several<br />
global accessories, many of which were brought home by the<br />
homeowners from their extensive travels abroad. A leather pouf<br />
from Africa fashions a seat by the fire, an antique stool lends<br />
organic flair and the inlaid mirror over the dressing table adds<br />
graphic interest. The final decorative touch comes via two carved<br />
wooden panels bought in Indonesia. Finneson had a cabinet shop<br />
frame them in walnut and hung them at the doorway, ensuring<br />
that walking into the transformed room will be a treat for years<br />
to come.<br />
DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 29
home + design<br />
DIY: Plan your<br />
Ultimate Closet<br />
RAISE A HAND if your home closet came equipped<br />
with a single hanging rod and not much more.<br />
Motivated by the enviable closet that Finneson<br />
designed for her Gig Harbor homeowners, we’ve<br />
compiled tips for maximizing that oft-overlooked<br />
space. The trick? Customize!<br />
1<br />
2<br />
TAKE INVENTORY<br />
Start the planning process by making a list of<br />
everything that needs to be stored. Include all<br />
types and numbers of clothes (such as pants,<br />
sweaters, blouses, jackets), shoes and handbags, as<br />
well as bulkier items like suitcases and plastic bins<br />
that hold off-season stuff.<br />
MEASURE YOUR SPACE ... AND YOUR STUFF<br />
Pull out the graph paper and draw out the<br />
measurements for the existing space. Next, think<br />
about how each item in your inventory needs to<br />
be stored. For example, long dresses will require<br />
a tall hanging rod. Line up those dresses, leaving<br />
a finger’s width of breathing room between each<br />
hanger, and measure. Now you’ll start to have<br />
an idea of what type of storage your closet<br />
should accommodate.<br />
VARY THE FITTINGS<br />
The best closets have a variety of storage options.<br />
4<br />
5<br />
Open shelves are great for items that need to<br />
be stacked, like sweaters and pants, or accessed<br />
frequently, like handbags and shoes. Built-in<br />
drawers or bins can accommodate socks, hosiery,<br />
and workout gear. Double-up hanging rods for<br />
shorter hanging pieces, like skirts, blouses, and<br />
jackets. Assign high shelves for seasonal items,<br />
hats, or luggage.<br />
REMEMBER THE NECESSARY EXTRAS<br />
This includes a light fixture, a full-length mirror, and<br />
a valet rod. The latter lets you hang up potential<br />
outfits for consideration. Don’t forget a hamper for<br />
dirty laundry.<br />
DISPLAY YOUR FAVES<br />
Special details will make the space more fun to use,<br />
whether that’s a display for your fabulous jewelry<br />
collection or a fun wallpaper peeking out from<br />
between the hangers.<br />
30 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
home + design<br />
Go global with accessories<br />
Sometimes the bathroom needs a pretty catchall,<br />
whether for magazines or extra rolls of toilet paper. We<br />
like these Natural Woven Floor Baskets at Rejuvenation,<br />
made in Ghana from twisted elephant grass.<br />
rejuvenation.com<br />
Inspired by Ojai, California, the<br />
makers at Quiet Town Home created<br />
this hand-woven cotton kilim bath<br />
rug. It’ll look equally cool underfoot<br />
or hanging off the side of the tub.<br />
quiettownhome.com<br />
Tilemaker Michael Pratt created the<br />
Scraffito Series to celebrate Pratt &<br />
Larson’s thirtieth anniversary. His design<br />
is based on an ancient etching technique<br />
used during the Italian Renaissance, as<br />
well as the Arts and Crafts Movement.<br />
The ceramic tile can be ordered in more<br />
than 300 colors or hand painted.<br />
prattandlarson.com<br />
DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 31
Juuso Välimäki<br />
Tri-City Americans,<br />
Calgary Flames<br />
2017 draft pick<br />
Age: 19<br />
Born: Nokia, Finland<br />
Residence: West Richland,<br />
Washington<br />
WORKOUT<br />
On practice days, Välimäki<br />
gets to the rink at 10 a.m.<br />
for either weightlifting,<br />
stretching and agility, or<br />
other physical work. After<br />
lunch it’s back to the rink<br />
for another two hours of<br />
on-ice practice.<br />
NUTRITION<br />
Välimäki loves food, but<br />
he’s particularly fond of<br />
sandwiches and salads for<br />
lunch and steak and ribs<br />
for dinner. For breakfast he<br />
eats oatmeal and fruit, and<br />
snacks on bananas and<br />
protein shakes.<br />
INSPIRATION<br />
“My goal is to play in the<br />
NHL. That’s where I want<br />
to be and that’s why I’m<br />
doing all the work and<br />
putting in all the time, so<br />
that my dream can come<br />
true. Also, the feeling when<br />
I play and we win ... that<br />
feeling is one of the best<br />
feelings in the world.”<br />
Judy Simpson<br />
32 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
mind + body<br />
Focus on the Ice<br />
Juuso Välimäki has his sights set on the NHL<br />
written by Sheila G. Miller<br />
Juuso Välimäki is in his third season<br />
with the Tri-City Americans.<br />
JUUSO VÄLIMÄKI HAS big<br />
plans, but for now he’s in little<br />
Richland, Washington.<br />
A Finnish hockey player for the Tri-<br />
City Americans, the Calgary Flames<br />
selected Välimäki with the sixteenth<br />
pick in the 2017 NHL draft. He didn’t<br />
make the roster this season, so he’s<br />
back with the Tri-City Americans.<br />
He hopes next year will be different,<br />
but right now he’s happy to hone his<br />
craft in the Tri Cities.<br />
“Next year when the season starts<br />
again, I’ll be (at the Flames camp),<br />
and next year obviously it’s my goal<br />
again to make that team,” he said. “For<br />
now I need to focus on being here.”<br />
So far, so good—Välimäki is a<br />
defenseman but in the first twelve<br />
games had already recorded four<br />
goals and eight assists.<br />
This is Välimäki’s third season with<br />
the Tri-City Americans. He started<br />
playing hockey when he was 5 years<br />
old, and other than a brief dabble in<br />
soccer, it’s been his only experience in<br />
team sports.<br />
“I’ve always been kind of athletic,<br />
and I play other sports with friends,”<br />
he said. “I loved downhill skiing when<br />
I was younger, but I’ve never played<br />
other team sports.”<br />
On practice days, Välimäki loads<br />
up with oatmeal and fruit before<br />
heading to the rink at 10 a.m. for a<br />
couple hours of working out, whether<br />
that’s stretching, lifting weights,<br />
or putting in time on the ice. After<br />
lunch, he comes back to the rink for a<br />
two-hour session on the ice. Välimäki<br />
usually drinks a protein shake or has<br />
a banana or small meal to get through<br />
the afternoon. In the evenings he<br />
usually stretches or rolls out sore<br />
muscles at home before starting over<br />
the next day.<br />
He likes hockey because it’s challenging.<br />
“It’s pretty complicated when<br />
you think about it,” he said. “You’ve<br />
got skates on. You’re on the ice, you<br />
have a stick and a lot of guys are trying<br />
to hit you. They’re going to do all<br />
kinds of stuff to not let you score.”<br />
It’s those hits, though, that can<br />
derail a player’s career. The constant<br />
abuse to a hockey player’s body is<br />
no laughing matter, and Välimäki is<br />
careful to take care of issues before<br />
they get worse.<br />
“I make sure I always do warmups<br />
before I go on the ice, and I do<br />
cooldowns when I get off the ice,” he<br />
said. “If I have soreness, I make sure<br />
the trainers take care of that stuff, and<br />
I use ice bags a lot.”<br />
Because hockey can be so dangerous,<br />
he also ensures he’s primed<br />
when he’s on the ice.<br />
“It’s a sport where accidents can<br />
happen on the ice and there’s nothing<br />
you can do about it,” he said. “My<br />
mindset has always been that if there<br />
is something I can do to stay healthy,<br />
I always do that stuff. … On the ice<br />
obviously I always have to be aware of<br />
what’s going on. I need to stay alert.”<br />
In season, practice and games take<br />
up much of his time. Games run<br />
from September to March—more<br />
than seventy in all. And that means<br />
a lot of travel throughout the West,<br />
from Portland to British Columbia.<br />
“I realized lately that it is important,<br />
when it’s not time for hockey, to not<br />
really think about hockey,” he said.<br />
“Your mind needs the rest from the<br />
sport. … When you have a day off, it’s<br />
important to think about other stuff.<br />
I try to hang out with the guys and<br />
just do something totally different.<br />
That’s important, and it keeps your<br />
mind fresh.”<br />
OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 33
artist in residence<br />
A Spirited Life<br />
Husband and wife distill words,<br />
metal and grains<br />
written by Catie Joyce-Bulay<br />
photography by Bradley Lanphear<br />
ABOVE Roberts Barker takes time<br />
to compose poetry. BELOW Barker<br />
constructs much of the distilling<br />
equipment himself.<br />
“POETRY IS LANGUAGE at its most distilled and<br />
most powerful,” writes the poet Rita Dove. The<br />
same could be said for spirits.<br />
While Katrina Roberts Barker’s poetry distills<br />
the language of the everyday into pure lyrical form,<br />
the distillery she and her husband operate does the<br />
same with the grapes and grains of the Walla Walla<br />
Valley. Walla Walla Distilling Company, celebrating<br />
its tenth year, is one of several creative pursuits for<br />
this artist pair. “Our family culture is very much<br />
one of creating things,” said Roberts Barker, who<br />
teaches English and creative writing at Whitman<br />
College, “of really looking hard to find, salvage and<br />
repurpose what’s been tossed off or overlooked.”<br />
Roberts Barker’s poetic work and life as farmer,<br />
mother, teacher, winemaker and distiller seem<br />
to flow together in a perfect blend, just like the<br />
botanicals she mixes for the distillery’s floralforward<br />
gin. It’s easy to imagine how one informs<br />
the other. Vines and family life enter into her poetry,<br />
while her poet’s eye for detail seeps into the work<br />
she does with her hands.<br />
“Some mornings we go out into the vineyard and<br />
prune tiny things,” she said. “It’s all about dirt under<br />
your nails and the smell of dew and vine—a kind of<br />
solitude with nature.” She likens shaping the lines of<br />
a poem to tending to the land.<br />
“There is something fascinating about trying<br />
to take something down to its most essential<br />
parts,” Roberts Barker said. “I’m fascinated by the<br />
whole notion of spirits—the idea of spirits as both<br />
something that you imbibe, but also that you can be<br />
spirited and have spirit. I just find that the language<br />
is fascinating as well as the actual process.”<br />
For her and her husband, Jeremy Barker, the<br />
process begins long before any ingredients hit the<br />
still. They grow and harvest their own grapes from<br />
the vineyard surrounding their house (and make<br />
wine under the label Tytonidae Cellars). Barker<br />
malts his own grain, which is harvested from the<br />
field adjacent to the distillery.<br />
Where Roberts Barker’s focus is on the<br />
more nebulous aspects of taste and mouthfeel<br />
(of both words and spirits), Barker, who<br />
34 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTONS’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
artist in residence<br />
built their four stills by hand, is more visual and<br />
numbers-minded. “I’m a stickler for details and for<br />
good craftsmanship,” he said.<br />
The equipment of the distillery is pieced together<br />
from recycled items Barker has salvaged. With a<br />
nod to steam-punk aesthetics, an old beer keg is<br />
brought back to life as one of the chambers for the<br />
whiskey and vodka still. A grain silo, taken apart<br />
in the fields, is reassembled and resurrected as the<br />
malt house.<br />
Barker, who has a degree in communications from<br />
the University of Idaho, picked up an assortment<br />
of trades from plumbing to welding over the years.<br />
“I also credit the time I spent working for Mark<br />
Anderson at the Walla Walla Foundry,” he said.<br />
“Learning different trades, honing my own artistic<br />
skills, and being inspired by a variety of great artists<br />
and artisans we worked with who came through.”<br />
Barker’s fine art pieces mingle with his functional<br />
art, where, he said, his current focus lies. A series<br />
of cast bronze sculptures dot the tasting room like<br />
constellations. The first collaboration between<br />
husband and wife, the sculptures are of Roberts<br />
Barker’s hands holding collections of found natural<br />
objects. They, along with tables and shelves he<br />
crafted from a downed black walnut on their<br />
property, add an earthy element that softens the<br />
edges of the industrial-style tasting room.<br />
Roberts Barker, a Harvard University and Iowa<br />
Writer’s Workshop graduate, has published four<br />
books of poetry and been included in poetry<br />
anthologies. Her two worlds have mingled<br />
for awhile now. She learned wine and grappamaking<br />
in Europe while on a writing grant after<br />
graduate school.<br />
Their three children, ages 10, 12 and 15, whom<br />
they homeschool, have also caught the creative<br />
repurposing bug. Outside the distillery sits an old<br />
school bus their middle child is renovating into a<br />
book mobile.<br />
The distillery’s location is yet another example of<br />
repurposing. It is housed in the old guard station<br />
of a former World War II army base, surrounded<br />
by the original barred wire. Still a work<br />
in progress, the couple plans to open<br />
to the public on a more regular basis,<br />
ABOVE A view of Walla Walla<br />
Distilling Company from the entrance.<br />
A view of the exterior distilling<br />
elements found on the backside of<br />
the building.f.<br />
DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 35
artist in residence<br />
ABOVE Walla Walla Distilling Company infuses<br />
its liquors with various fruits and spices for<br />
flavor. RIGHT Jeremy Barker and Katrina<br />
Roberts Barker hold up a bottle of whiskey and<br />
vodka distilled at Walla Walla Distilling.<br />
with tastings and food service. Barker showed me how he is<br />
converting one of the stills to channel smoke from the fire that<br />
heats it into a meat smoker above.<br />
“One often doesn’t know one’s readership in poetry who has<br />
come upon a small poem in a book found on some table in a<br />
used bookstore,” Roberts Barker said. “Similarly, we can’t know<br />
how far a bottle of our spirits has traveled, or how a sip of our<br />
spirits might shift the awareness of a visitor here in town. But<br />
always, I think, with both poems and spirits: ‘Here, drink in, I<br />
made this for you.’”<br />
36 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTONS’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
STARTUP 40<br />
WHAT’S GOING UP 42<br />
WHAT I’M WORKING ON 44<br />
MY WORKSPACE 46<br />
GAME CHANGER 48<br />
pg. 48<br />
Big Table sets elaborate spreads for its guests.
Franc<br />
LAUNCHPAD TO A<br />
WONDERLAND.<br />
In Everett, you can stay right in the middle of four<br />
mountain resorts for half the price of staying in Seattle.<br />
Launch your PNW adventure at<br />
Travel the Palouse<br />
Ken Carper, kencarperphotos.com<br />
In Eastern Washington, find our state’s official waterfall, capture a 360 degree view<br />
of rolling hills from one butte or hike to see a patchwork of farmland from another.<br />
Stay in Pullman. See our sights. Picture yourself here.<br />
Ask for more from the Pullman Chamber of Commerce | PullmanChamber.com | 800.365.6948
startup<br />
Former Starbucks COO<br />
Fulfills Ten-Year Dream<br />
Troy Alstead opens Ocean5<br />
and Table 47 in Gig Harbor<br />
written by Marguerite Cleveland<br />
FROM LEFT Ocean5, scheduled to open this winter, includes a laser<br />
challenge arena, a bowling alley and plenty of space for patrons to<br />
get together with family and friends. Brian W. Brush used recycled<br />
aluminum to create “Reef,” the project’s main art installation. Troy<br />
Alstead, the former COO of Starbucks and creator of Ocean5.<br />
TEN YEARS AGO, Troy Alstead, the former chief operating<br />
officer of Starbucks, was sitting in a hotel room in Shanghai while<br />
his family remained back home in Washington.<br />
It can be lonely on the road—soon, he found himself with time<br />
on his hands in the evenings. Alstead began to work on an idea he<br />
had long considered, and it soon took the form of a business plan.<br />
Ocean5 and Table 47 were born.<br />
“I have always been inspired by gathering places all around the<br />
world, whether it’s the kitchen table at home, a coffee shop, pub,<br />
restaurant or sports arena, the places where people socialize,<br />
connect and have fun,” Alstead said. “I saw the opportunity<br />
to create a very unique social place, like nothing that exists in<br />
the state. A venue that would be a fantastic place to work, a<br />
great part of the community, and respectful of the environment<br />
and oceans.”<br />
The vision was this: Ocean5, a 57,000-square-foot, LEEDcertified<br />
building with activities for the whole family, including a<br />
two-story laser challenge arena, game room and a bowling alley<br />
with both ten-pin and duckpin lanes. There would be more than<br />
100 seats for just hanging out, including around a dramatic circular<br />
fireplace, the focal point for the venue. Ocean5 would also serve<br />
the business community with a dedicated event floor that can<br />
accommodate groups from five to more than 400. Inside Ocean5,<br />
the Table 47 restaurant would offer a farm-to-table experience<br />
with locally sourced food, servers who receive farm tours as part<br />
of their training and who know where the food comes from.<br />
With a business plan fleshed out, Alstead had the foresight to<br />
reserve space in the future Olympic Towne Center, in Gig Harbor.<br />
In 2015, he took advantage of a Starbucks employee benefit, a<br />
sabbatical called the “Coffee Break.” The break allowed him more<br />
family time, such as taking his eldest son to visit colleges, while<br />
deciding whether to make a career change. “I loved all my years<br />
at Starbucks, from the earliest days as a small Northwest retail<br />
company to a global consumer brand,” Alstead said. “But I had this<br />
idea, this dream, and knew that it would require all my focus and<br />
attention to make it happen.” He decided to step away from his<br />
corporate career and make his dream a reality.<br />
The Ocean5 project broke ground on July 19, 2016, and is<br />
scheduled to open this winter. “Now we are just putting up the<br />
finishing touches, and there are a lot of them in 57,000 square feet,”<br />
said sales and marketing director Tomoko Senechal. “The chefs<br />
are finalizing their sourcing with local vendors to get the besttasting,<br />
responsibly grown ingredients. The bowling pins are out<br />
and ready.”<br />
“Reef,” the project’s main artwork, was recently installed in the<br />
lobby. The piece, by Brian W. Brush, was inspired by Alstead’s vision<br />
of sustainability and environmental awareness. The aluminum in<br />
the art installation is recycled from other projects. “‘Reef’ diverts<br />
material that would have either gone to a landfill or been reprocessed<br />
using high-energy manufacturing methods,” Brush said.<br />
“It’s a perfect example of repurposing and reusing with<br />
reduced waste and embodied energy.”<br />
40 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
startup<br />
Courtesy of Brian Brush<br />
Love of the oceans not only inspired the name and logo of the<br />
business, but how Alstead plans to run his company. He grew<br />
up in the Puget Sound area, and has always loved “the beauty,<br />
the mystery, the adventure, the fun” of the ocean. “Over the<br />
years, I have come to appreciate the risks facing our oceans and<br />
seas,” Alstead said. “We will use the platform of the business to<br />
drive awareness and inspire action to improve the health of the<br />
oceans and seas, starting with Puget Sound. We will tell stories<br />
about how we are responsibly sourcing our ingredients, how we<br />
constructed the building to be gentle on the environment, how<br />
we will use geothermal wells around the building to reduce our<br />
energy consumption.”<br />
Like many business owners, Alstead faced his share of<br />
challenges to achieving his dream. But one thing he didn’t have<br />
to worry about, as sole investor in the project, was resistance to<br />
the increased costs due to the project’s sustainability. He chose to<br />
invest in geothermal technology despite the financial costs—as a<br />
result, seventy-two geothermal wells will help heat and cool the<br />
large building. This system is the equivalent of reducing carbon<br />
dioxide emissions by taking thirty cars off the road.<br />
With Ocean5 nearly open, Alstead has a message for those<br />
contemplating their own dreams.<br />
“Never quit,” he said. “If what you are dreaming about is the<br />
right thing for you and your family and community, whether that<br />
dream is starting a new business or a nonprofit or something else,<br />
then overcome whatever challenges you might face.”<br />
“I have always been inspired<br />
by gathering places all<br />
around the world, whether<br />
it’s the kitchen table at<br />
home, a coffee shop, pub,<br />
restaurant or sports arena,<br />
the places where people<br />
socialize, connect and have<br />
fun. I saw the opportunity to<br />
create a very unique social<br />
place, like nothing that exists<br />
in the state.”<br />
— Troy Alstead, creator of Ocean5<br />
DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 41
what’s going up?<br />
University<br />
Buildings<br />
New facilities abound<br />
at Washington colleges<br />
written by Sheila G. Miller<br />
MOST OF US would like to imagine<br />
that our college campus stays<br />
just as we left it, preserved in<br />
amber. But universities—and their<br />
campuses—move on, and these<br />
ones are building facilities for their<br />
newest students.<br />
LMN Architects<br />
The University of Washington aims to complete the Bill & Melinda Gates Center for Computer Science & Engineering by the end of 2018.<br />
UNIVERSITY<br />
OF WASHINGTON<br />
University of Washington is in the<br />
midst of building a computer science<br />
building on its Seattle campus. The<br />
$110 million building will be named<br />
the Bill & Melinda Gates Center for<br />
Computer Science & Engineering, and<br />
is slated to be completed by the close<br />
of 2018. With 135,000 square feet, the<br />
building will double the computer<br />
science school’s space, and, according<br />
to the university, will include a robotics<br />
laboratory and a wet lab space.<br />
CENTRAL WASHINGTON<br />
UNIVERSITY<br />
At Central Washington University<br />
in Ellensburg, the long-vacant<br />
Samuelson Student Union building<br />
was partially demolished and rebuilt<br />
in order to create a computer science<br />
and technology center. The $58<br />
million project is expected to be<br />
completed in fall 2018. The union<br />
was built in 1926 as the school’s gym<br />
and underwent several additions,<br />
according to the Ellensburg Daily<br />
Record. It was closed in 2005.<br />
GONZAGA UNIVERSITY<br />
Gonzaga University’s new Volkar<br />
Center for Athletic Achievement is<br />
nearly complete. The three-story,<br />
51,000-square-foot, $24 million<br />
building is expected to be complete<br />
by the year’s end. The facility will<br />
feature a university hall of fame, as<br />
well as a practice basketball court that<br />
according to The Spokesman-Review<br />
will be a replica of the game court.<br />
The third floor will include a large<br />
academic assistance area.<br />
42 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
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what i’m working on<br />
Paul G. Allen School for Global Animal Health at Washington State University<br />
Doggone Disease<br />
WSU project seeks to eliminate<br />
rabies deaths in Africa<br />
interview by Sheila G. Miller<br />
Guy Palmer with a child and his dog, ready to be vaccinated.<br />
WITH AN OFFICE in Nairobi, Kenya, a satellite office in Arusha, Tanzania,<br />
and a partnership with the Nelson Mandela African Institute of Science<br />
and Technology, Washington State University faculty members and staff<br />
are using animal science to make a difference in the lives of Africans.<br />
The Paul G. Allen School of Animal Health is fifteen years into a<br />
massive project to vaccinate dogs against rabies, a disease that kills<br />
thousands in Africa and Asia every year. The school does more than<br />
just the rabies elimination program—it has been working to decrease<br />
childhood stunting (in which a child is physically and cognitively stunted<br />
as a result of malnutrition) through livestock vaccinations, and has also<br />
studied how to cut antibiotic resistance in urban slums in Nairobi.<br />
Guy Palmer, who among other things is the founding director of the<br />
Allen School and leads the disease control programs in East Africa and<br />
Latin America, believes rabies deaths can be eliminated, and his team is<br />
out to make it a reality.<br />
Why rabies?<br />
Rabies is responsible for about<br />
60,000 deaths worldwide, and<br />
almost all of them occur in<br />
Sub-Saharan Africa and South<br />
Asia. Even though here in the<br />
U.S. we have endemic wildlife<br />
rabies, in most years we have<br />
zero, maybe one death due<br />
to rabies. Once you develop<br />
symptoms of rabies you’re<br />
going to die—it’s a 100 percent<br />
deal, so you don’t want to have<br />
symptoms. Almost all rabies<br />
worldwide is due to<br />
dog bites. It is a global<br />
health problem.<br />
44 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
Paul G. Allen School for Global Animal Health at Washington State University<br />
WSU has vaccinated<br />
more than a million<br />
dogs in East Africa.<br />
What is WSU doing to eradicate rabies?<br />
We want to reduce the need for<br />
treatment by reducing the number<br />
of rabid dogs. We have an effective<br />
vaccine—this is not like HIV where we<br />
don’t have an effective vaccine. We<br />
have one, it’s just a matter of getting<br />
it delivered consistently out to the<br />
right places to block transmission.<br />
If you vaccinate enough dogs, then<br />
you basically keep the virus from<br />
circulating among the dogs and then<br />
dogs don’t have rabies and can’t<br />
transmit to humans.<br />
The number of those dogs that have<br />
to be vaccinated is on average about 70<br />
percent of population. You don’t have to<br />
vaccinate every dog, but you have to get<br />
a good number. There are challenges<br />
to these resource-poor areas, places<br />
where people live on less than $1.50 a<br />
day. They’re not going to vaccinate their<br />
dogs without some kind of opportunity<br />
to do it. We have actually vaccinated<br />
over a million dogs in East Africa in the<br />
past couple years, but in doing so we’re<br />
always trying to learn how to do it better.<br />
What are some of the challenges?<br />
What happens in these countries<br />
is that vaccinations tend to be a<br />
campaign. Someone shows up once<br />
per year and vaccinates every dog they<br />
can get their hands on. They might<br />
get 80 percent of dogs vaccinated if<br />
they’re doing really great. People will<br />
come from quite a distance—they’re<br />
very aware of rabies and community<br />
participation is very, very high. But as<br />
you can imagine, the day you leave, the<br />
number of vaccinated dogs begins to<br />
decrease—some will die, new puppies<br />
will be born, other dogs will come into<br />
the population. You may miss a spot;<br />
there may be a village where there was<br />
a funeral or something else going on so<br />
you only got 20 percent of the dogs.<br />
We’ve worked to try to get around<br />
that—one thing that was a real<br />
constraint was that the vaccine had<br />
to be refrigerated all the time, but<br />
we’ve done some work now with a<br />
thermostable vaccine that can be<br />
stored out in village conditions for<br />
three to six months.<br />
Now you can kind of turn the<br />
vaccination campaign over from<br />
this central point idea of once a year<br />
to a rolling vaccination where, say,<br />
the community’s livestock officer<br />
is taking responsibility for it. That’s<br />
one of our goals as well, to have it<br />
become something the community is<br />
responsible for.<br />
How does the Washington community<br />
help?<br />
We have begun to work with privatepractice<br />
veterinarians who have<br />
embraced our mission, so that every<br />
time they vaccinate a dog in the U.S.<br />
they donate $1 to the vaccination<br />
campaign in East Africa.<br />
What’s the ultimate goal?<br />
We have a goal of the elimination<br />
of human rabies deaths by the year<br />
2030, and we think it’s achievable. It’s<br />
not that hard. It is in logistical ways,<br />
but not in terms of the science. The<br />
science is there—the science now is<br />
‘implementation science,’ how you get<br />
it to people. We’ve picked rabies for<br />
two reasons—we think it’s achievable<br />
in the short term because we have the<br />
technology, and we think that rabies<br />
is a pretty good test case for how you<br />
can actually deal with a disease of<br />
importance to community and get them<br />
to take ownership and control.<br />
We can basically show that in the<br />
areas where we’ve implemented the<br />
program, you don’t have rabies deaths.<br />
It definitely works.<br />
DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 45
my workspace<br />
Born and raised on Whidbey Island,<br />
Rob Henderson has been working on<br />
his family’s holly farm since he was a<br />
boy, when, he said, he first fell in love<br />
with the orchard.<br />
It takes up to sixty years before holly<br />
trees are large enough to harvest, said<br />
Henderson, whose 800-tree orchard<br />
was planted in the 1950s. Henderson<br />
bought the farm’s current site from<br />
avid amateur horticulturalist Virginia<br />
Morrel, who helped design Seattle’s<br />
Washington Park Arboretum. The<br />
farm has seven types of holly trees,<br />
including some rare varieties.<br />
The holly leaves and berries are used to make<br />
wreaths, garland, holiday arrangements,<br />
corsages, and to fill the natural wood planters<br />
Henderson and his crew create in all shapes<br />
and sizes from reindeer to snowmen. More<br />
than a hundred stems of only the best holly<br />
and boughs from the surrounding noble firs<br />
and cedar go into the meticulously handcrafted<br />
wreaths. “Mrs. Claus doesn’t like to have<br />
blemishes on her holly,” said Henderson, who<br />
enjoys watching visitors take family photos in<br />
the orchard, decked out in their holiday best.<br />
My Workspace<br />
Love at First Blush<br />
Tending a holly orchard on Whidbey Island<br />
Like his visitors, Henderson’s crew of<br />
eight is made up of mostly locals who<br />
come back year after year. It’s important<br />
for Henderson to let visitors into the shop<br />
to witness the time and care that goes<br />
into each wreath. “We get them to see<br />
what we see to get the product right, but<br />
also to see the joy in their eyes,” he said. “I<br />
call it the magic of the shop.”<br />
written by Catie Joyce-Bulay<br />
46 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
In our family,<br />
Butter is THE<br />
STAR INGREDIENT.<br />
LOVE,<br />
COOKIE ZEALOT<br />
DEAR COOKIE ZEALOT,<br />
WE’RE GLAD TO HEAR IT. BUTTER IS<br />
A MAINSTAY OF HOLIDAY BAKING.<br />
FRESH, REAL WASHINGTON DAIRY<br />
IS A FAMILY TRADITION THAT CAN<br />
LAST ALL YEAR LONG.<br />
© 2017 Dairy Farmers of Washington
game changer<br />
Setting the Big Table<br />
Serving the service community<br />
one plate at a time<br />
written by Cara Strickland<br />
photos courtesy of Big Table<br />
KEVIN FINCH USED TO WALK INTO restaurants on<br />
professional covert missions: he was food editor and chief<br />
critic for a local magazine in Spokane. It’s the job many<br />
people dream about—being paid to eat and drink. But as he<br />
slipped in and out of restaurants, he couldn’t help but notice<br />
the people there with him—servers, hosts, bartenders,<br />
cooks. He wanted to know their stories.<br />
Finch was surprised to discover that many people in the<br />
restaurant and hospitality industry were struggling, despite<br />
a cheery exterior as they took his drink order. “The most<br />
essential part of the uniform is a smile,” Finch said.<br />
As he began to develop relationships with those in the<br />
industry, he did a little research. It turns out that workers in<br />
this field have the highest rates of drug and alcohol abuse<br />
in the nation. These same workers are two to three times<br />
more likely to deal with a broken relationship as those in<br />
other fields.<br />
The more Finch thought about the hallmarks of the<br />
industry—long hours, most of them worked when others<br />
are off the clock; constant stress; many people without<br />
health insurance, sick pay, or any kind of safety net—these<br />
numbers made sense. But they weren’t just numbers to<br />
him anymore, they were people he had come to care about<br />
deeply. He wanted to do something.<br />
In <strong>Jan</strong>uary 2009, Finch started Big Table, the first<br />
nonprofit dedicated solely to serving people in<br />
America’s largest industry. He began with an<br />
idea for a lavish dinner, served at a long table.<br />
He wanted to invite the people who were always<br />
48 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
game changer<br />
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT A big table is ready for<br />
guests. An appetizer of cucumbers mounted on<br />
skewers towers over wheatgrass, garnished with<br />
exotic spices and fruits. Guests toast to a great meal.<br />
serving others to sit down, relax and enjoy<br />
a meal cooked by some of the best chefs<br />
in the area. In November 2009, he realized<br />
that dream, inviting dishwashers and chefs,<br />
owners, servers and hotel desk clerks to<br />
sit together at the same table (it’s custom<br />
made, and seats forty-eight). Over the<br />
years, many guests (including celebrated<br />
chefs) have referred to these dinners as the<br />
best of their lives.<br />
But the dinner was only the beginning.<br />
That first evening, many of the guests wrote<br />
down names and situations of their friends<br />
and co-workers, who were struggling.<br />
Since that first dinner, Big Table has<br />
grown to a staff of ten, and expanded<br />
beyond Spokane to Seattle. Big Table<br />
still hosts dinners, three per year in each<br />
city. But the rest of the time it keeps busy<br />
building relationships with people in<br />
the industry, helping to meet immediate<br />
needs—new clothes and housewares after<br />
a house fire, helping to fix a car that will<br />
only travel in reverse, the money to pay<br />
an electric bill after an injury—but also<br />
genuinely connecting. Many of these<br />
relationships last far longer than the crisis<br />
that initially brought in Big Table.<br />
In both cities, Big Table works on a<br />
referral model. “Because we’re tapping into<br />
the networks that already exist, we’ve got a<br />
way to address one of the biggest puzzles<br />
that other social services agencies struggle<br />
with: isolation. How do you find the people<br />
who are most in need before they’re all<br />
the way gone? We’ve got the guy cutting<br />
carrots next to him who sees that person<br />
gradually unraveling over the course of<br />
months or years. He can say, ‘Hey, maybe<br />
we should talk to Big Table about this.’”<br />
Though the network is strong, resources<br />
are often low. Still, Finch is blown away<br />
by the people he encounters. “I’ve never<br />
seen a more generous group,” he said.<br />
“For people who have very little, they give<br />
sacrificially: ‘I don’t have the money for<br />
my rent, but your rent is due sooner than<br />
mine, so here.’”<br />
Through his time at Big Table, Finch has<br />
become convinced that this is an important<br />
sector for everyone to care about. “For the<br />
first few years I’ve been trying to convince<br />
people that this is a niche area that they<br />
should care about. Just by starting there,<br />
folks who have no interest in the restaurant<br />
and hospitality industry—maybe they<br />
could care less about food, or they don’t<br />
go out to eat—immediately their eyes go<br />
blank,” he said. “Instead, I’m starting to say,<br />
‘We care for the working poor in the place<br />
with the highest concentration of need in<br />
the nation, period.’ That begs the question<br />
on their part: ‘Really, what is that place?’<br />
Well, surprisingly, it’s the restaurant and<br />
hospitality industry. Now it’s framed, not<br />
as a niche, but as the most strategic place<br />
to impact the poor community, because<br />
we are caring for the place with the highest<br />
concentration of need. We’re catching<br />
people before they fall.”<br />
DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 49
2o17<br />
Holiday<br />
Gift Guide<br />
brought to you by <strong>1889</strong> Staff<br />
photography by Emily Joan Greene<br />
50 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
‘Twas the night before Christmas, and all<br />
through Lee’s house, our coworkers were<br />
laughing and getting a bit soused.<br />
To celebrate the holidays, Statehood<br />
Media scoured the shelves for the best<br />
Washington-made gifts. We gathered for<br />
an old-fashioned holiday gift exchange,<br />
complete with sparkling wine and hors<br />
d’oeuvres. From wall décor to jewelry to<br />
the best in books, we picked plenty of<br />
winners. We hope you’ll use our picks to<br />
inspire your gift-giving this year.<br />
DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 51
1<br />
1.<br />
Buckhead painting<br />
18”x24” acrylic on canvas<br />
*limited edition<br />
(www.jessepierpoint.com)<br />
52 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
2<br />
2.<br />
52 Lists for Happiness<br />
by Moorea Seal Journal<br />
(www.mooreaseal.com)<br />
3.<br />
Pendulum Necklace<br />
with aqua terra jasper stone<br />
by Baleen Jewelry<br />
(www.shopbaleen.com)<br />
3<br />
DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 53
4<br />
5<br />
4.<br />
5.<br />
6.<br />
6<br />
Tin Cloth short lined cruiser | Men’s<br />
Trench coat<br />
by Filson<br />
(www.filson.com)<br />
“The Buck” deer head, featuring<br />
Pendleton blanket fabric<br />
(www.farawaylovely.com)<br />
Xylem Clock<br />
by Dania Furniture Co.<br />
(www.daniafurniture.com)<br />
54 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
7<br />
8<br />
7.<br />
8.<br />
9.<br />
Subsonic Spirit 30 Slalom Longboard by Subsonic (www.subsonicskateboards.com)<br />
Dry Fly Straight Bourbon by Dry Fly Distilling (www.dryflydistilling.com)<br />
Colors of the West by Molly Hashimoto (www.mollyhashimoto.com)<br />
9<br />
DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 55
10<br />
11<br />
12<br />
14<br />
The Washington Pint Glass Set<br />
10.13<br />
by North Drinkware<br />
11.<br />
12.<br />
13.<br />
14.<br />
(www.northdrinkware.com)<br />
Woodinville Whiskey Straight Bourbon<br />
by Woodinville Whiskey Co.<br />
(www.woodenvillewhiskeyco.com)<br />
Spalted Maple Breadblock cutting board<br />
by Ruby Pear Woodworks<br />
(www.rubypear.com)<br />
New Life throw blanket<br />
by Eighth Generation at Pike Place Market<br />
(www.eighthgeneration.com)<br />
Churchill’s Prime Steak Gift Box (includes two<br />
NY Strip Steaks, two Filet Mignons, Churchill’s<br />
Signature Steak Seasoning & Herb Finishing Butter)<br />
by Churchill’s Steakhouse<br />
(www.churchillssteaks.com)
15.<br />
16.<br />
17.<br />
Abundance Perfume<br />
Summer Fragrance<br />
by Rare Ayre<br />
(www.rareayre.com)<br />
Custom-design diamond ring<br />
14k yellow gold with 1.47 ctw diamonds<br />
by Tracey Jewelers<br />
(www.traceyjewelers.com)<br />
“The Witness 3” cuff<br />
by Cypher Jewelers<br />
(www.cypherjewelers.com)<br />
16<br />
15 17<br />
DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 57
W A S H I N G T O N ' S<br />
B E S T<br />
written by Catie Joyce-Bulay<br />
FROM PRISTINE WILDERNESS<br />
hikes to family-friendly pampering,<br />
there’s a hot spring for everyone’s<br />
taste in Washington. These five boast<br />
some of the most scenic views and<br />
are the perfect way to warm body and<br />
soul on a chilling winter’s day.<br />
58 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
Aramark<br />
SOL DUC<br />
HOT SPRINGS<br />
Most Pacific Northwest hot springs<br />
were first discovered by Native<br />
Americans who valued them as<br />
healing and sacred gathering places.<br />
In the late 1800s and early 1900s many<br />
were booming tourist attractions.<br />
Some later were plagued with overuse<br />
and unsafe activities. A few surviving<br />
resorts have been updated as popular<br />
modern-day destinations, while<br />
others are returning to their natural<br />
beauty. Many hot springs today<br />
benefit from restoration efforts by<br />
dedicated hotspring-lovers, mostly<br />
volunteer and nonprofit, who work to<br />
restore the sites and raise awareness of<br />
the ecological impact visitors have on<br />
these special natural resources.<br />
On the Olympic Peninsula visitors<br />
have been coming to the historic Sol<br />
Duc Hot Springs Resort, located in<br />
Olympic National Park, for more than<br />
a hundred years. Sol Duc, a Native<br />
American term meaning “sparkling<br />
waters,” has three mineral soaking pools<br />
ranging in temperature from 99 to 104<br />
degrees, as well as a freshwater pool. A<br />
typical morning soak finds the pools<br />
thick with steam rising off of them that<br />
clears by afternoon for stunning views<br />
of forest and mountains. Guests can<br />
use the pools for the day or stay in the<br />
lodge, cabins, RV park or campground.<br />
Continue the relaxation with a massage<br />
and enjoy Pacific Northwest cuisine at<br />
their on-site restaurant.<br />
The family-friendly resort, open<br />
from March through October, makes<br />
a perfect basecamp for visiting the<br />
national park. Sol Duc Falls is a short<br />
drive away and worth the trip—what<br />
better way to end a day of hiking<br />
through the temperate rainforest than<br />
with a relaxing hot soak? Bathing suits<br />
are required.<br />
olympicnationalparks.com<br />
DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 59
OLYMPIC<br />
HOT SPRINGS<br />
Ken Reppart<br />
For more of a wilderness experience, visit<br />
Olympic Hot Springs, also located in the<br />
Olympic National Park. Once the site of<br />
a 1920s-era resort, most traces of the old<br />
buildings have been removed and the spring<br />
now resides in a designated wilderness area.<br />
Visitors hike in on an easy 2.5-mile trail from<br />
Boulder Creek Trailhead in the Elwha River<br />
Valley. A series of small rock and sand pools,<br />
with temperatures ranging from 100 to 112<br />
degrees, are found along the trail, while others<br />
are more secluded.<br />
Hikers can stay at the backcountry<br />
campground at the trailhead with pit toilets and<br />
food hangers (or borrow a bear canister from<br />
the park). A wilderness use permit is required.<br />
The spring is open year-round, although in<br />
snowy or wet conditions the hike in will be<br />
longer (6.5 miles one way) as the road may be<br />
partially closed. Snowshoes are recommended.<br />
Nudity is commonplace, but not condoned<br />
by the park. The park does not maintain the<br />
springs and issues a general warning about the<br />
potential for bacteria in the water.<br />
The Appleton Trailhead will also access the<br />
hot springs, though the trail is more rugged<br />
with much more elevation gain. Experienced<br />
hikers can consider taking this route in good<br />
weather for an overnight backpacking trip.<br />
Contact the park’s wilderness information<br />
center for current trail conditions before<br />
planning a visit.<br />
nps.gov/olym/index.htm<br />
60 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
In the Cascades, Goldmyer Hot Springs<br />
is tucked into the foothills of the North<br />
Cascades, about 25 miles east of North Bend.<br />
Reach the crystal clear spring after an easy<br />
4.5-mile hike through old-growth forest along<br />
Burntboot Creek. The trail can be done on<br />
foot or mountain bike. Snowshoes or skis are<br />
recommended in the winter.<br />
The hot mineral waters cascade down from<br />
a 30-foot-long cave into lower pools, reaching<br />
a temperature of 104 in the coolest. You can<br />
also soak in the cave—a former mine shaft—<br />
where the ambient temperature is around 111<br />
degrees, and in the two open air pools below<br />
it. A cold pool nearby is formed by a diverted<br />
stream and is perfect to cool off. Pack in<br />
supplies and stay overnight at the campsite,<br />
supplied with picnic tables, outhouses, and<br />
food hanging lines and containers.<br />
The hot spring was first developed in the<br />
early 1900s by William Goldmyer, one of the<br />
first settlers of Seattle. Currently run by the<br />
nonprofit Northwest Wilderness Program<br />
and with an onsite caretaker, Goldmyer limits<br />
guests to twenty per day to preserve and restore<br />
the wilderness qualities of the spring and<br />
surrounding ecosystem, which is recovering<br />
from years of misuse. Phone reservations are<br />
required and recommended two weeks in<br />
advance. The clothing-optional hot spring is<br />
open year-round, but access is dependent on<br />
weather conditions. A Northwest Forest Pass is<br />
required, and a high-ground clearance vehicle is<br />
recommended to reach the trailhead.<br />
GOLDMYER<br />
HOT SPRINGS<br />
goldmyer.org<br />
hundertmorgan<br />
DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 61
SCENIC<br />
HOT SPRINGS<br />
Jeff Layton<br />
Discovered in the 1880s by railworkers<br />
while building the original railway over<br />
Stevens Pass is the aptly named Scenic<br />
Hot Springs. Like many others, Scenic<br />
has seen its share of misuse in the<br />
past. Once known as a party scene for<br />
local skiers, county law enforcement<br />
threatened to shut it down for good. Its<br />
current private owner and caretakers<br />
have done much to clean and restore<br />
the site over the past ten years, and its<br />
reputation has turned around.<br />
The 2-mile access trail is uphill the<br />
entire way, with an elevation gain of<br />
around 1,200 feet. The reward for your<br />
efforts is a soak in the cliffside spring<br />
overlooking conifer treetops and distant<br />
peaks. Water temperatures average<br />
between 102 and 109 degrees in the<br />
three adjacent circular tubs. Find the<br />
hottest temperatures in the driest part<br />
of the summer, and the coldest point of<br />
winter, when all the nonthermal ground<br />
water is frozen. Snowshoes or skis are<br />
necessary in the winter, because at 3,500<br />
feet in elevation the area can receive up<br />
to 20 feet of snow.<br />
To ensure its pristine condition, a<br />
maximum of ten people are allowed<br />
daily. Make reservations online at least<br />
two days in advance. After reserving a<br />
space, visitors will receive an email with<br />
directions from the private caretakers.<br />
Nighttime soaking or onsite camping<br />
is prohibited at this clothing-optional<br />
spring. Recommendations for primitive<br />
campsites within the Wenatchee<br />
National Forest are provided, or stay in<br />
the nearby town of Skykomish.<br />
scenichotsprings.blogspot.com<br />
62 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
Carson Hot Springs, tucked into the moss-drenched<br />
forests of the Columbia River Gorge, is perhaps<br />
Washington’s most well-known hot spring. This<br />
commercial resort offers a traditional soak in its 1930s-era<br />
bathhouses. The experience includes twenty-five minutes<br />
in an old-fashioned clawfoot tub. A bath attendant then<br />
leads you to a bed and swaddles you in hot towels to sweat<br />
out more toxins. Once engulfed in this mineral-soaked<br />
hug, lie back and relax for another twenty-five minutes,<br />
or add a massage. There are separate bathhouses for men<br />
and women.<br />
Carson Hot Springs Golf & Spa Resort also includes<br />
a soaking pool for day use and overnight guests.<br />
Accommodations are found within the original Hotel<br />
St. Martin, completed in 1901 by its first owner. Isadore<br />
St. Martin discovered the springs in 1876 on a hunting<br />
expedition and soon moved to the site with his wife, who<br />
found great relief from neuralgia in the healing waters. An<br />
additional modern lodge and cabins have since been built.<br />
Book a room with a hot tub on the balcony overlooking<br />
the Wind River for the ultimate soaking getaway. A golf<br />
course and restaurant are also on the premises.<br />
carsonhotspringresort.com<br />
WHEN YOU GO<br />
1. Check weather, road and<br />
trail conditions before trip<br />
departure.<br />
2. If snow is expected,<br />
consider snowshoes, skis<br />
or crampons or spikes.<br />
In more remote locations<br />
be prepared with extra<br />
supplies, warm fast-drying<br />
layers, and know your<br />
hiking abilities.<br />
3. Hot springs are delicate<br />
natural areas that deserve<br />
your respect. In all seasons,<br />
remember to carry-in-carryout<br />
all trash and follow<br />
Leave No Trace principles<br />
in wilderness areas. Visit<br />
lnt.org for more information.<br />
LUXURY ALTERNATIVES<br />
TO NATURAL<br />
HOT SPRINGS<br />
Doe Bay Resort and Retreat,<br />
on Orcas Island, offers heated<br />
and covered outdoor soaking<br />
pools while soaking in views<br />
of the bay. Book a spot in the<br />
saltwater spa and sauna for a<br />
day or stay at the lodge, cabins<br />
or yurts for a longer getaway.<br />
Enjoy a massage and then a<br />
meal at the garden-sourced café.<br />
Nestled in the woods just<br />
outside Mount Rainier National<br />
Park sits Wellspring Spa. Two<br />
outdoor cedar hot tubs are filled<br />
from spring water and heated<br />
and bromine-treated. Spend a<br />
day soaking and in the sauna,<br />
or book a massage and make a<br />
weekend of it at the lodge or in<br />
the treehouse.<br />
CARSON<br />
HOT SPRINGS<br />
DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 63
flying<br />
high on<br />
mount<br />
baker<br />
64 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
GETTING OUT AND EXPLORING doesn’t have to<br />
stop when the seasons change. In fact, winter can<br />
be the perfect time to carve out some new trails,<br />
provided you’ve got the right gear strapped to your<br />
feet. Here, photographer Grant Gunderson gives<br />
us an up-close look at skiers and snowboarders<br />
shredding Mount Baker.<br />
DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 65
A skier bombs through powder at the Mt. Baker<br />
Ski Area as the sun gleams in the background.<br />
66 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 67
Skier Adam Ü drops in at Artist Point.<br />
Deep below the powder lies a state highway.<br />
68 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
Adam Ü drops in off of Hemisphere,<br />
a backcountry area popular with skiers.<br />
DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 69
The Raven Hut at Mt. Baker is one of three<br />
lodges at the ski area, and is designed in the<br />
1920s Cascadia style. It’s located mid-mountain<br />
and is only accessible by ski and snowboard.<br />
70 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 71
Isaac Peterson<br />
TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 74<br />
ADVENTURE 76<br />
LODGING 80<br />
TRIP PLANNER 82<br />
NORTHWEST DESTINATION 90<br />
pg. 82<br />
The Chihuly chandelier inside Union Station<br />
in Tacoma.
Destination BC/Dave Heath<br />
Experience Fernie, British Columbia this winter.<br />
Located in the scenic heart of the Canadian Rockies, Fernie receives over 30 feet of snow each<br />
season transforming this quaint mountain town into a beautiful winter wonderland.<br />
From vast powder lines to snowy forest trails Fernie will inspire and rejuvenate you.<br />
Add Historic Downtown with its local brews, unique shops and attractions, divine spas and<br />
world-class cuisine and you’ll want to stay longer.<br />
Drive times: Kalispell MT - 2 hours, Calgary AB - 3 hours, Spokane WA - 5 hours<br />
TourismFernie.com<br />
#ferniestoke
travel spotlight<br />
Hot Tub Boats bring<br />
the party to Lake Union<br />
written by Sheila G. Miller<br />
photography by Cameron Zegers<br />
WINTER IN WASHINGTON can be windy, rainy and cold—<br />
the perfect time to get out on Lake Union, huh?<br />
You can do just that in a Hot Tub Boat. That’s right—you can<br />
tour Lake Union in a mobile hot tub, luxuriating in 102-degree<br />
water while taking in the sights of Seattle.<br />
Owner and creator Adam Karpenske first had the business<br />
idea in 2011. Karpenske was living on a houseboat, but faced<br />
a great dilemma—he desired a hot tub. He converted an old<br />
dinghy, put his marine carpentry experience to use, and the<br />
rest was history.<br />
The company, which started renting the boats in 2012, has<br />
two available—each fits up to six people and is controlled by<br />
a joystick, so anyone with a valid driver’s license can operate<br />
one. The boats hit a top speed of 5 mph.<br />
A minimum rental is two hours for $350, with subsequent<br />
hours at $100 each.<br />
Water goes into the boats at 110 degrees and two heaters<br />
keep the hot tub at about 102 degrees throughout the trip.<br />
The boats are at their busiest between June and August, but<br />
one of the great joys of hot-tubbing is defying frigid weather,<br />
which makes winter a great time to check them out.<br />
In addition, the company makes and sells custom hot tub<br />
boats. Next up, it hopes to expand into new markets and<br />
franchise the product.<br />
74 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017<br />
The AGC Building and Marina<br />
1200 Westlake Ave. N<br />
SEATTLE<br />
hottubboats.com
travel spotlight<br />
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP<br />
Amanda Loman basks in<br />
a Hot Tub Boat. A Hot<br />
Tub Boat idles as guests<br />
prepare to board. Dennis<br />
Lussier, Lara Schmidt and<br />
Joe Green enjoy the fresh<br />
Seattle rain in their Hot<br />
Tub Boat.<br />
DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 75
adventure<br />
Elk Ridge Campground<br />
Adventure<br />
Dashing Through the Snow<br />
Elk Ridge is the jumping-off point for winter adventure<br />
written by Adam Sawyer<br />
Elk Ridge Campground is the perfect<br />
base camp for winter adventure.<br />
FOR WHATEVER REASON, many of<br />
us living in the upper left corner of the<br />
country have yet to recognize that the<br />
real Elysium of this region lies just over<br />
the mountains. There’s a sweet spot on<br />
the eastern side of the Cascades that is<br />
simultaneously home to ample sunshine,<br />
verdant forests, wide open spaces and<br />
pristine flowing waterways. You’ll find far<br />
fewer people, a commensurate amount<br />
of traffic, and seasons that are more<br />
defined—including a proper winter.<br />
Yakima is no longer the “Hidden<br />
Valley” it was considered to be just a<br />
handful of years ago. If you like beer or<br />
wine at all, you’ve no doubt imbibed an<br />
adult beverage derived from something<br />
grown there. And the outdoor adventure<br />
in and around the area is sublime, with<br />
the Elk Ridge Campground earning a<br />
base camp gold star.<br />
As the crow flies, the Elk Ridge<br />
Campground is about 35 miles due east<br />
of Mt. Rainier, and just as far of a drive<br />
from Yakima. Sitting on the banks of the<br />
Naches River just off of Highway 410,<br />
it is accessible in winter via either the<br />
Snoqualmie or White passes. There are<br />
RV spots, a spa, nine eclectic, characterrich<br />
cabins with kitchens and snoparks<br />
in every direction, including Bald<br />
Mountain directly across the street. It is<br />
perfectly situated as the ideal home for a<br />
winter retreat.<br />
Last season I booked a cabin known as<br />
the “Whiskey Still” for a weekend. If you<br />
stand in one place long enough somebody<br />
is bound to tell you that moonshine was<br />
once produced beneath the Prohibitionera<br />
cabin’s floors. Whether the anecdotes<br />
of well-seasoned locals possessed a shred<br />
of truth mattered not. I had secured my<br />
own provisions just in case.<br />
Being <strong>Jan</strong>uary and a particularly good<br />
snow year, I arrived into magic. The<br />
forest was proudly showing off a fresh,<br />
clean layer of white. A few families were<br />
enjoying sled runs and their excited<br />
laughter echoed gently as a welcome<br />
to the property. Tim and Julie Hoefer<br />
purchased the camp in <strong>Jan</strong>uary 2015 and<br />
have been busy since, maintaining the<br />
camp’s charm but making some necessary<br />
updates. Two such betterments include<br />
the onsite spa and a fire pit—both of<br />
which I had almost aggressive intentions<br />
of using.<br />
After settling into my cabin, I walked<br />
down to the river with a hot, whiskeyinfused<br />
drink, helping me settle in just a<br />
little more. I explored a bit and walked<br />
off any stiffness that remained from the<br />
drive, then headed back to the cabin<br />
to make dinner. After some quiet time,<br />
I finally made it out to the fire pit for<br />
some easy conversation with<br />
fellow guests who were there<br />
to take advantage of the area’s<br />
snowmobiling options.<br />
76 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
adventure<br />
WHERE TO GO<br />
SNOWSHOEING<br />
BUMPING LAKE<br />
Distance from campground:<br />
26 miles<br />
A flat, easy snowshoe<br />
explores the forested shores<br />
of Bumping Lake. Lightly<br />
used in winter—a great<br />
choice for solitude.<br />
PLEASANT VALLEY<br />
Distance from campground:<br />
20 miles<br />
A series of mostly flat trails<br />
leave from the Hell’s Crossing<br />
Sno-Park Trailhead and trace<br />
the American River. Expect to<br />
get some great views of Fife’s<br />
Peak, weather permitting.<br />
WILDLIFE VIEWING<br />
OAK CREEK<br />
WILDLIFE AREA<br />
Distance from campground:<br />
15 miles<br />
The now famous winter feeding<br />
program at Oak Creek<br />
provides the rare chance to<br />
observe bighorn sheep, mule<br />
deer, mountain goats, and elk.<br />
SNOWMOBILING<br />
BALD MOUNTAIN ROAD<br />
STAGING AREA<br />
Directly across road from<br />
campground<br />
Access to more than 60 miles<br />
of trail. Staging only, with no<br />
restrooms or facilities. Perfect<br />
for quick, hassle-free access<br />
from Elk Ridge.<br />
BOULDER CAVE SNO-PARK<br />
Distance from campground:<br />
9 miles<br />
Access to over 20 miles<br />
of trail on the west side of<br />
Highway 410. Trail accesses<br />
the summit of Little Bald<br />
Mountain. Restrooms at the<br />
trailhead.<br />
For more information, call the<br />
Naches Ranger District at<br />
509.653.1400.<br />
Elk Ridge Campground<br />
Elk Ridge Campground<br />
The Bald Mountain Road staging area<br />
connects more than 60 miles of groomed<br />
trails that launch into the Okanogan-<br />
Wenatchee National Forest. Tight tree<br />
lines, exposed ridges, remote valleys as<br />
well as other sno-parks are all accessible<br />
from this jumping-off point. And<br />
because things tend to get more popular<br />
the farther west you go from there, it’s<br />
a convenient, less-crowded portal, just<br />
across the highway. It’s an invigorating<br />
way to spend your days at Elk Ridge,<br />
but this time around my stay was geared<br />
to less adrenaline-inducing pursuits.<br />
Steady, quiet breaths and solitude were<br />
on the next day’s agenda. For the time<br />
being though, more fireside whiskey.<br />
When I woke, I embraced the morning<br />
casually. Stretching, coffee, breakfast,<br />
hygiene, more coffee. I packed a lunch<br />
and drove to Bumping Lake to go<br />
snowshoeing. The roads were in great<br />
shape, and there were no other cars at<br />
FROM TOP Elk<br />
gather in droves<br />
near the Yakimaarea<br />
campground.<br />
Families have<br />
plenty of winter<br />
activities here.<br />
the trailhead. I was hoping for this, and it<br />
was kind of the point. A thigh-pumping<br />
ascent to a viewpoint that gazes into<br />
infinity is great, and I love those. But so<br />
do other people.<br />
It was a good, strong, windless cold,<br />
the kind that steals the sound from<br />
the air and allows you to warm up<br />
without getting hot. Not quite needing<br />
to remove a layer, I proceeded steadily<br />
around the lake and campground area.<br />
Again, there were no magnificent vistas<br />
to be had, but there was plenty of chill<br />
and calm—the perfect accompaniment<br />
to the welcomed silence.<br />
That afternoon I would enjoy a long<br />
massage, hearty dinner, and once<br />
again the fire pit with all of its glorious<br />
trappings. This was real winter and the<br />
exact sort of adventure I needed. For<br />
now, places like Elk Ridge will satiate that<br />
need. At least until I can find a way to<br />
move to Yakima.<br />
78 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
lodging<br />
Davenport Hotels<br />
Davenport Hotels<br />
Lodging<br />
written by Cara Strickland<br />
WHEN THE HISTORIC Davenport<br />
Hotel opened in 1914, it was at the<br />
cutting edge of luxury, drawing visitors<br />
from far and wide for social events<br />
and overnight stays (including many<br />
celebrities over the years, such as Amelia<br />
Earhart, John F. Kennedy, Clark Gable<br />
and Babe Ruth). Unfortunately, the<br />
building was the worse for wear when it<br />
closed in 1985.<br />
In 2000, the hotel escaped near<br />
demolition when Walt and Karen<br />
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT The Hall of the Doges. Exterior<br />
of the Historic Davenport Hotel. A penthouse room at the hotel.<br />
Historic Davenport Hotel<br />
Davenport Hotels<br />
Worthy bought it and restored it to its<br />
former glory. Now, guests can peruse<br />
photos from long ago while standing<br />
in the grand hallways and ballrooms,<br />
just as those historic guests would have<br />
seen them.<br />
10 S. POST STREET<br />
SPOKANE<br />
davenporthotelcollection.com<br />
ACCOMMODATIONS<br />
The 284-room Historic Davenport offers<br />
eight different types of rooms and suites.<br />
Although the ethos of the hotel is historic,<br />
the beds certainly aren’t. Each room is<br />
equipped with a signature mattress (which<br />
you can buy downstairs if you fall in love).<br />
DINING<br />
Wander down to the Palm Court for breakfast,<br />
lunch or dinner and try the Crab Louie Salad,<br />
named for Louis Davenport, the hotel’s<br />
original owner. His chef, Edward Mathieu,<br />
created the salad, which is now served all over<br />
the world. If you’re in the mood for a drink,<br />
pop into the Peacock Room Lounge for happy<br />
hour, cocktails and late-night snacks. Snag<br />
a housemade pastry or cookie with a cup of<br />
coffee at the espresso bar in the lobby from<br />
bright and early until mid-morning.<br />
AMENITIES<br />
Visit the salon and spa for pampering in the<br />
form of a wide range of massage and beauty<br />
treatments. Relax in the steam room and sip<br />
a glass of complimentary champagne with<br />
every service. Start or end your day with a<br />
dip in the pool or a soak in the hot tub, and<br />
follow along with your kids as they solve a<br />
game of historical detection.<br />
80 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
Discover the great Pacific Northwest.<br />
Whether you are looking to enjoy a romantic weekend in the city or share playful adventures with your kids, the Seattle area offers<br />
exciting attractions and activities for everyone. Walk through Pike Place Market, catch a sports game, enjoy a boating activity on Lake<br />
Washington or venture into Bellevue for world-class shopping. Our properties deliver personalized care and unforgettable experiences.<br />
For reservations or more information, visit hyatt.com or call 800 233 1234.<br />
Grand Hyatt Seattle | Hyatt Olive 8 | Hyatt Regency Bellevue | Hyatt Regency Lake Washington | Hyatt Regency Seattle<br />
The Hyatt trademark and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation or its affiliate.<br />
C<br />
2017 Hyatt Corporation. All rights reserved.
Tacoma,<br />
City of Destiny<br />
Art and culture<br />
for the whole family<br />
written and photographed by Isaac Peterson<br />
WE SWEPT INTO Tacoma beneath an overcast<br />
sky. We looked out over the water toward the base<br />
of Mount Rainier, its peak hidden in the clouds.<br />
We had thought of Tacoma as a waypoint<br />
between its two sister cities, Portland and<br />
Seattle. As a young family used to trekking to<br />
the Emerald City and the City of Roses in search<br />
of art experiences for our intellectually curious<br />
6-year-old daughter, Ruby, Tacoma had never<br />
really been on our radar as anything other than<br />
the TAC in SEA-TAC. What was its nickname,<br />
anyway? Sapphire City? City of Hydrangeas?<br />
Nothing came to mind.<br />
Tacoma does have a nickname—the City of<br />
Destiny, acquired at the turn of the century when<br />
it was a major railroad nexus and an important<br />
departure point for ocean freight. In preautomobile<br />
America, Tacoma was an economic<br />
powerhouse for shipping and international trade,<br />
and a logical choice for the western terminus<br />
of the transcontinental railway, although it<br />
eventually ceded that honor to San Francisco.<br />
The buildings of that era project a profound<br />
optimism and announce the international<br />
significance of the city in every rebounding art<br />
nouveau curve. This style can be seen everywhere,<br />
and the curvilinear constructions<br />
seem as futuristic today as they did a<br />
hundred years ago.<br />
Old City Hall in Tacoma looks as though<br />
it was transported from Renaissance<br />
Italy, with a beautiful clock tower and<br />
collonaded windows. This grandiose<br />
space stands empty now, but the city<br />
has big plans for its transformation.<br />
82 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
WHAT HAPPENS IN THE<br />
Hot Shop<br />
Doesn’t stay<br />
IN THE HOT SHOP<br />
museumofglass.org
trip planner<br />
Day<br />
A MULTITUDE OF MUSEUMS • TINKERTOPIA • IPA<br />
Tacoma’s welcoming statue in Tollefson Plaza is a towering cedar<br />
carving depicting a native woman with her arms outstretched.<br />
Its creator is woodcarver Qwalsius-Shaun Peterson, a member of<br />
the Puyallup tribe. The carving’s simple geometry is refreshing,<br />
a true masterpiece of native woodcarving at the center of town<br />
instead of the usual elegiac bronze.<br />
We checked into the Courtyard Marriott. From our room on<br />
the fifth floor, we could see downtown as a whole, the interplay of<br />
modern and centenary architecture spreading out along the water<br />
like a string of ornate beads: the ascendant metallic cone of the<br />
Glass Museum, the rock-candy pillars of the Bridge of Glass, the<br />
spherical courthouse, the rebounding arches of the Washington<br />
History Museum, and the Tacoma Dome rising through the mist<br />
in the background. Tacoma has sought for decades how best to<br />
utilize its perfectly preserved architecture—and its solution has<br />
been the creation of a string of museums. Running along the waterfront,<br />
Tacoma’s museums rival those of Washington, D.C., in<br />
the breadth of their exhibits. Set aside at least one full day for museums,<br />
if not two.<br />
Before setting off on our museum day, we had breakfast at<br />
the Renaissance Cafe on Pacific Avenue, where I had possibly<br />
the best salmon omelet I’ve ever eaten. The fresh-caught local<br />
salmon transformed the most basic recipe into a memorable<br />
culinary experience.<br />
The LeMay Car Museum is astonishing, even for people like<br />
us with no knowledge of automobiles. Because of the storytelling<br />
behind the exhibits, the LeMay is universally appealing, not just<br />
fun for gearheads. The LeMay seems to exert its influence over<br />
the city—everywhere you’ll see people driving classic cars, and<br />
there are specialized garages for their maintenance, adding to the<br />
sense that the entire city is a cooperative project in preserving<br />
the past.<br />
The Tacoma Art Museum (TAM) is a world-class contemporary<br />
art museum. We saw an exhibit of American portraiture<br />
and afterward spent time in the kid’s studio, where Ruby drew<br />
her self-portrait to be added to the collection. We were surprised<br />
to discover an entire upper floor of well-equipped art<br />
classrooms—the institution’s dedication to teaching sets it apart<br />
from other contemporary art museums. One of the teachers we<br />
talked with had taught a class in self-portraiture for<br />
blind students and was hanging her students’ work<br />
on the walls. New exhibits coming in <strong>Jan</strong>uary and<br />
84 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
trip planner<br />
FROM LEFT Paintings in the portraiture show at Tacoma Art Museum. The children’s art lab at the museum. The conical tower of the Museum of Glass is a recognizable<br />
landmark. Blue pillars frame the Bridge of Glass. Tinkertopia is the perfect place to find creative inspiration. A flight of craft beer arrives on skis at Harmon Brewing Co.<br />
February will include one featuring bronze animal sculptures and<br />
another on native portraiture.<br />
The Museum of Glass is a monument to the Pacific Northwest’s<br />
contribution to glass art, as well as a representation of<br />
Tacoma native Dale Chihuly’s artistic legacy. The central architectural<br />
feature, an inimitable Tacoma landmark, is a conical<br />
tower sheathed in diamond-shaped steel plates rising above the<br />
museum’s galleries. Inside the tower is a hot-shop theatre, where<br />
ambitious glass projects are planned and created by a team of<br />
artists in a kind of workers’ ballet. We watched artists making<br />
glass sculptures based on the artwork of kids, producing a perfect<br />
rendition of a narwhal and passing out long, spiraled pieces<br />
from the remnants to the audience.<br />
The Washington State History Museum is a series of rebounding<br />
arches springing from the sphere of Union Station. Its exhibits<br />
are widely varied and center on the The Great Hall of Washington<br />
History, an immersive path of larger-than-life dioramas<br />
which wind through the history of the state. Every winter it hosts<br />
a model train festival, and in February will open a traveling exhibition<br />
called TOYTOPIA—we may have to go back just to check<br />
it out.<br />
The Tacoma Children’s Museum offers hundreds of handson<br />
activities for curious kids. It’s the perfect follow-up to TAM.<br />
There’s ample studio space for your child to put her artistic inspiration<br />
into practice.<br />
Any two of these museums constitutes a full day. If your family<br />
is anything like ours, you’ll need extra time to see them all.<br />
For that indefatigably creative kid in your life, follow one of<br />
these museum days with a visit to Tinkertopia on Pacific Avenue.<br />
It’s a crazy “alternative art supply” store dedicated to reusing<br />
remnants, scraps, blanks, overstock and other waste from<br />
local manufacturers and repurposing it into creative projects. It<br />
is well-organized and the activities, parties and classes so appealing<br />
you’ll wonder why every art supply store isn’t like this. The<br />
materials are basically worthless, but the community activities<br />
make the place hum with creative energy. On the day we visited,<br />
the store was packed with excited families building homemade<br />
robots from found components.<br />
For dinner, visit Harmon Brewing Co., which sits along the row<br />
of museums in a brick building that still reads Harmon Manufacturing<br />
Co. in gigantic faded letters. Pat Nagle and Carole Holder<br />
decided to name their company after the building, celebrating<br />
the city’s history. The food at Harmon is fresh<br />
and delicious and the Point Defiance IPA is exceptional.<br />
DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 85
trip planner<br />
Day<br />
ANTIQUE ROW • LIVE LIKE THE MOUNTAIN IS OUT<br />
We set out for Antique Row on the second day. As we walked through town we<br />
noticed stenciled graffiti on the sidewalk. It was an outline of Mt. Rainier with the<br />
text: Live Like The Mountain Is Out. We didn’t understand what this meant until<br />
right before we left, when we overheard two locals talking at a restaurant.<br />
“Do you think the mountain will be out today?” said one.<br />
“I hope so. If it is, I’m going kayaking.” said the other.<br />
Tacoma’s collective preservationist impulse was apparent on Antique Row. Walking<br />
down Broadway, the sheer number of antique shops was astounding. It isn’t one<br />
or two, it’s an entire district. Some of the shops occupy multiple floors. Broadway’s<br />
Best Antiques, Sanford and Son Auctions, and Lily Pad Antiques are highlights. The<br />
area has something for every antique hunter, from upscale furniture from the ’40s to<br />
’70s good luck trolls. As we rummaged, we fantasized about appearing on Antiques<br />
Roadshow. Most shops had just the right level of disorganization appropriate for<br />
concealing hidden wonders. The district showcases a century of abandoned bric-abrac<br />
and treasure, as though the residents of Tacoma were unwilling to let anything<br />
go as the fate of the City of Destiny changed course. They would stubbornly hold<br />
onto everything for a hundred years until the city was ready to finally redefine itself.<br />
For lunch we went to the Pacific Grill, the restaurant at the Courtyard Marriott.<br />
The fresh local seafood catch made for a wonderful braised salmon, paired of course<br />
with a Point Defiance IPA. The Pacific Grill had a good kids’ menu as<br />
well, and they accommodated our tired, cranky kids, worn out from antiquing<br />
all day.<br />
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT In Tollefson Plaza, Tacoma’s<br />
welcome statue by woodcarver Qwalsius-Shaun Peterson depicts<br />
a Native American woman with her arms outstretched. A window<br />
display in Antique Row shows an eclectic collection of 19thcentury<br />
wealth. Graffiti on the sidewalk in Tacoma.<br />
86 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
Visit Centralia, WA<br />
Meet me in centralia for the weekend<br />
Halfway between Seattle and Portland, historic<br />
downtown Centralia is the perfect place for a<br />
getaway. We are easy to find by car or train, and full<br />
of hidden gems. Take a break and visit Centralia for<br />
a getaway you won’t forget.<br />
Visit DowntownCentralia.org<br />
for more information on<br />
things to do in our<br />
amazing town!<br />
Explore in 360<br />
at downtowncentralia.org<br />
Centralia Winterfest<br />
Centralia is a special treat during the holidays.<br />
Join us for our Christmas Market, Lighted Tractor<br />
Parade, and much more during Winterfest!<br />
A lot of things have changed out here<br />
since the lawless days<br />
of the wild, wild west.<br />
Guess we didnt get the memo.<br />
VisitEasternOregon.com
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Siblings enjoy the jellyfish exhibit at the Point Defiance Zoo & Aquarium. Red wolves at the<br />
Point Defiance Zoo. The cavernous German beer hall Rhein Haus serves up dinner that’s both hearty and elegant.<br />
TACOMA, WASHINGTON<br />
EAT<br />
Harmon Brewing Co.<br />
harmonbrewingco.com<br />
Pacific Grill<br />
pacificgrilltacoma.com<br />
Rhein Haus<br />
rheinhaustacoma.com<br />
Miyabi Tacoma<br />
tacoma.miyabisushi.com<br />
Renaissance Cafe<br />
renaissancetacoma.com<br />
STAY<br />
Courtyard Marriott Tacoma<br />
marriott.com/hotels/travel/seatdcourtyard-tacoma-downtown<br />
Silver Cloud Inn<br />
silvercloud.com/tacoma<br />
The Murano<br />
hotelmuranotacoma.com<br />
PLAY<br />
TinkerTopia<br />
tinkertopia.com<br />
Tacoma Art Museum<br />
tacomaartmuseum.org<br />
Lemay Car Museum<br />
americascarmuseum.org<br />
Point Defiance Zoo & Aquarium<br />
pdza.org<br />
Museum of Glass<br />
museumofglass.org<br />
Washington History Museum<br />
washingtonhistory.org/visit/wshm<br />
Children’s Museum of Tacoma<br />
playtacoma.org<br />
Day<br />
POINT DEFIANCE • RED WOLVES • LIVING CHIHULY SCULPTURES<br />
Reserve at least a whole day for Point Defiance,<br />
especially if kids are involved. The<br />
route from the outskirts of the city to Point<br />
Defiance is perfect for runners—there’s a<br />
bike path which follows the coastline for the<br />
entire distance, affording breathtaking views<br />
over the water at every turn.<br />
Driving to Point Defiance takes you along<br />
a circuitous route on the leeward side of a<br />
cliff, winding your way under elevated railroad<br />
tracks and through defunct manufacturing<br />
and shipping facilities arrayed along<br />
the coast. It’s a journey through the city’s<br />
manufacturing past.<br />
The Point Defiance Zoo & Aquarium focuses<br />
on animals native to the Pacific Northwest.<br />
It seems less like a zoo and more like an<br />
extension of the local ecology. It was lightly<br />
raining, and the hardy musk-oxen seemed<br />
right at home. The undulant jellyfish illuminated<br />
in ultraviolet in the aquarium were like<br />
a Chihuly sculpture come to life.<br />
Point Defiance Zoo has had a special<br />
role in the conservation of American Red<br />
Wolves. When that species hovered on the<br />
brink of extinction in the 1970s, it was the<br />
Point Defiance Zoo that coordinated with<br />
the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service to craft a<br />
strategic plan for their survival. This longrange<br />
ecological preservation effort was<br />
one of the first of its kind in the United<br />
States. The exhibit of red wolves at the zoo<br />
is the highlight.<br />
For dinner visit the Rhein Haus, a gigantic<br />
German beer hall that seems to have been<br />
teleported into town from another century<br />
and another continent. The cavernous space<br />
is lavishly decorated in an elegant Baroque<br />
style. The restaurant has indoor bocce ball<br />
courts and other games, and it’s the perfect<br />
setting for rowdy kids and rowdier adults, or<br />
a large party. It would be fun just to come<br />
to the Rhein Haus and drink beer out of the<br />
giant pewter beer steins and play bocce ball,<br />
but we stayed for dinner as well. With trepidation<br />
we tried the schnitzel, and were pleasantly<br />
surprised by the light, complex flavor.<br />
As we left the City of Destiny, the cloud<br />
cover finally broke. The sky seemed<br />
particularly vivid, and for the first time on our<br />
trip we saw Mount Rainier across the water.<br />
It was an ordinary moment but seemed like<br />
a revelation, and we were reminded to “live<br />
like the mountain is out.”<br />
88 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
Experience<br />
the allure of Oregon<br />
truffles and wine at the<br />
Oregon Truffle<br />
Festival<br />
The Joriad North American<br />
Truffle Dog Championship<br />
january 25 • eugene<br />
Eugene and surrounds –<br />
a truffle extravaganza!<br />
january 26, 27 & 28<br />
Yamhill Valley –<br />
Celebrating the Legacy<br />
of James Beard<br />
february 16, 17 & 18<br />
tickets on sale<br />
oregontrufflefestival.org<br />
The perfect gift for holiday fun<br />
and lasting memories.<br />
Come discover The Terroir of Truffles. The Valley awaits...<br />
&<br />
alesong brewing | capitello wines | dry sparkling | eugene cascades and coast | the falls event center | heritage distilling co.<br />
hilton eugene | joel palmer house | ninkasi brewing | oregon wine lab | ruddick/wood | travel oregon | visit mcminnville<br />
wildcraft cider works | wolves & people farmhouse brewery
northwest destination<br />
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The lakeside city of Coeur d’Alene is located<br />
in the northern Idaho panhandle. Lights decorate the city during the<br />
holidays. Lake Coeur d’Alene Cruises offers eagle-watching tours.<br />
Don’t miss Coeur d’Alene Resort’s holiday light show.<br />
The Coeur d’Alene Resort<br />
The Coeur d’Alene Resort<br />
90 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
northwest destinations<br />
A Good Vacation Spot,<br />
No Matter the Season<br />
Coeur d’Alene keeps the fun going<br />
when temperatures drop<br />
written by Alison Highberger<br />
coeurdalene.org coeurdalene.org<br />
IF YOU ONLY VISIT Coeur d’Alene, Idaho, in the<br />
summer, you’re missing out. This is a city that goes out of<br />
its way to make sure everyone has a good time when the<br />
temperatures drop.<br />
Coeur d’Alene (pronounced core-da-LANE),<br />
incorporated in 1887, is a charming lake city of about<br />
48,000 people in the northern Idaho panhandle that<br />
lures summer visitors with its boating, fishing, golf,<br />
camping, hiking, bicycling, kayaking and all things<br />
active and outdoorsy.<br />
But it’s a warm and welcoming winter getaway spot,<br />
too. When the crowds are gone, the shops, art galleries,<br />
restaurants, breweries and lake cruises can all be<br />
enjoyed with a little more elbow room. For skiers and<br />
snowboarders, there are four ski areas within a twohour<br />
drive.<br />
Lake Coeur d’Alene is the centerpiece of the city. The<br />
name means “heart of the awl” in French, and, as the story<br />
goes, French-speaking fur traders christened the lake<br />
with a nod to the local Native Americans whom they felt<br />
were shrewd traders, with hearts like the piercing tool.<br />
Fed by the Coeur d’Alene River and the St. Joe River,<br />
Lake Coeur d’Alene is too large to freeze. It’s 25 miles long<br />
and an average of 1 to 3 miles wide and with an average<br />
depth of 100 feet, so cruises are available all year long.<br />
The Coeur d’Alene Resort, overlooking the lake, offers<br />
“Journey to the North Pole” holiday lights cruises from<br />
November 18 through <strong>Jan</strong>uary 2. The forty-minute trip<br />
includes views of more than 1.5 million twinkling lights,<br />
the world’s biggest floating Christmas tree, a visit with<br />
Santa and fireworks. Actress Ellen Travolta (one of John’s<br />
five siblings) presents a holiday show at the resort, which<br />
is also a hub for lodging, dining, spa treatments and<br />
relaxing by the lobby fireplace.<br />
Eagle-watching trips by Lake Coeur d’Alene Cruises<br />
run from <strong>Dec</strong>ember 2 through <strong>Jan</strong>uary 1. The<br />
lake is a migratory stop for hundreds of bald<br />
eagles from as far away as Alaska. They feed<br />
DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 91
northwest destination<br />
COEUR D’ALENE, IDAHO<br />
EAT<br />
Fire Artisan Pizza<br />
fireartisanpizza.com<br />
Wolf Lodge Steakhouse<br />
wolflodgecda.com<br />
Hudson’s Hamburgers<br />
hudsonshamburgers.com<br />
STAY<br />
The Coeur d’Alene Resort<br />
cdaresort.com<br />
Greenbriar Inn B & B<br />
greenbriarlodging.com<br />
Resort City Inn<br />
resortcityinn.com<br />
PLAY<br />
Lake Coeur d’Alene Cruises<br />
cdacruises.com<br />
Fins & Feathers Tackle Shop<br />
and Guide Service<br />
fins1.com<br />
Ellen Travolta Presents:<br />
Christmas With a Twist!<br />
cdaresort.com<br />
The Art Spirit Gallery<br />
theartspiritgallery.com<br />
coeurdalene.org<br />
The Art Spirit Gallery on Sherman Avenue features original work by artists around the region.<br />
Cisco’s Gallery<br />
ciscosgallery.com<br />
Journey to the North Pole<br />
Holiday Lights Cruise<br />
cdaresort.com<br />
DISTANCE TO SKI AREAS<br />
Silver Mountain Resort<br />
(38 miles)<br />
silvermt.com<br />
Schweitzer Mountain Resort<br />
(60 miles)<br />
schweitzer.com<br />
Lookout Pass (61 miles)<br />
skilookout.com<br />
49 Degrees North Ski &<br />
Snowboard Resort (78 miles)<br />
ski49n.com<br />
on kokanee, the land-locked variety of the<br />
sockeye salmon. Prepare to be amazed.<br />
You’ll be close to these beautiful birds for<br />
the two-hour trip. “It’s a good way to see<br />
the magic of winter,” said Cally King of<br />
The Coeur d’Alene Resort. It’s nature at<br />
its finest.”<br />
If you visit during a cold snap, give<br />
ice-fishing a try on nearby Lake Fernan,<br />
less than 2 miles from downtown. Fins &<br />
Feathers Tackle Shop can hook you up.<br />
“You don’t need a lot of gear,” said store<br />
manager Jordan Smith. “A rod and reel<br />
is about $15, a jig (hook with a weight)<br />
is about $5, and some bait will do it.” A<br />
one-day fishing license is $12.75. Cut your<br />
own fishin’ hole with an ice auger, or use<br />
someone else’s hole. “Be safe and always<br />
check the ice when you go out,” Smith said.<br />
“Generally, ice that’s 3 to 5 inches thick is<br />
safe for walking.”<br />
Sherman Avenue has more than 125<br />
shops, restaurants, bars and boutiques.<br />
Fun places to browse include Figpickels<br />
Toy Emporium, Mountain Madness Soap<br />
Co., All Things Irish and Cisco’s Gallery<br />
with a mind-boggling display of Western<br />
and Native American art, artifacts and<br />
antiques. The Art Spirit Gallery features<br />
original work by regional artists.<br />
To top it off, this is a restaurant town.<br />
Simple hamburgers with onions and<br />
pickles (and no french fries!) are a tradition<br />
at Hudson’s, established in 1907, where<br />
patrons perch on stools at the counter. Fire<br />
Artisan Pizza serves gourmet pies; follow<br />
one with their warm bittersweet chocolate<br />
chip cookie sprinkled with gray salt and<br />
topped with a scoop of vanilla bean ice<br />
cream. The rustic Wolf Lodge Steakhouse,<br />
8 miles from Coeur d’Alene, has been<br />
grilling meat and seafood over tamarack<br />
firewood since 1939—be sure to make<br />
a reservation.<br />
When the cold winds blow, and you want<br />
a getaway, you’ll find it easy to love the<br />
warm-hearted town of Coeur d’Alene.<br />
92 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
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<strong>1889</strong> MAPPED<br />
The points of interest below are culled from<br />
stories and events in this edition of <strong>1889</strong>.<br />
Oroville<br />
Forks<br />
Friday Harbor<br />
Port Angeles Coupeville<br />
Port<br />
Townsend<br />
Bellingham<br />
Mount Vernon<br />
Lakewood<br />
Marysville<br />
Everett<br />
Okanogan<br />
Republic<br />
Colville<br />
Newport<br />
Aberdeen<br />
South<br />
Bend<br />
Shelton<br />
Montesano<br />
Port Orchard<br />
Cathlamet<br />
Longview<br />
Olympia<br />
Chehalis<br />
Kelso<br />
Seattle<br />
Bellevue<br />
Renton<br />
Kent<br />
Federal Way<br />
Tacoma<br />
Ellensburg<br />
Yakima<br />
Waterville<br />
Wenatchee<br />
Ephrata<br />
Prosser<br />
Richland<br />
Wilbur<br />
Pasco<br />
Kennewick<br />
Ritzville<br />
Dayton<br />
Walla<br />
Walla<br />
Davenport<br />
Spokane<br />
Colfax<br />
Pomeroy<br />
Asotin<br />
Vancouver<br />
Stevenson<br />
Goldendale<br />
Live<br />
Think<br />
Explore<br />
14<br />
Christmas Lighting Festival<br />
40<br />
Ocean5<br />
74<br />
Hot Tub Boats<br />
16<br />
Pleasure Systems<br />
42<br />
Central Washington University<br />
76<br />
Elk Ridge Campground<br />
18<br />
Woodinville Whiskey Co.<br />
44<br />
Washington State University<br />
80<br />
Historic Davenport Hotel<br />
22<br />
Imperial’s Garden<br />
46<br />
Henderson Holly Farm<br />
82<br />
Washington State History Museum<br />
32<br />
Tri-City Americans<br />
48<br />
Big Table<br />
90<br />
Coeur d’Alene<br />
94 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
CAN YOU<br />
BELIEVE<br />
WHAT YOU<br />
READ?<br />
Sources: 2016 Survey, Pew Research Center; GfK MRI, Spring 2016.<br />
MAGAZINE<br />
MEDIA<br />
Better. Believe It.<br />
With fake news leaving most Americans<br />
confused about even the basic facts,<br />
magazine media keeps it real. Whether in<br />
print, online, on mobile or video, people<br />
trust it to be expertly researched, written<br />
and fact-checked. No wonder magazine<br />
readers are more engaged and more likely<br />
to recommend advertised products.<br />
Being real matters. That’s a fact.<br />
#BelieveMagMedia | BelieveMagMedia.com
Until Next Time<br />
The dark days of winter<br />
written by Charyn Pfeuffer<br />
WHEN YOU LIVE IN the Pacific<br />
Northwest, you become fiercely attached<br />
to certain things during the winter<br />
months. A Norwegian wool blanket,<br />
felt slippers, a Netflix subscription and a<br />
stupidly expensive raincoat for your dog—<br />
all things that comfort and warm.<br />
Washington winters are not for the<br />
faint of heart. It’s not the rain that’ll get<br />
you. Despite its reputation, Seattle gets<br />
less rainfall than every major city on the<br />
eastern seaboard. It’s the never-ending<br />
stretches of gray and legitimate vitamin D<br />
deficiency that’ll spark the winter blues.<br />
During the winter, Washingtonians<br />
adopt the “3:30 rule.” Meaning, if you<br />
haven’t walked the dog or done outdoor<br />
tasks by 3:30 p.m., you’re going to be doing<br />
it in the dark. Or in my case, by the beam<br />
of a Petzl headlamp—my nerdy must-have<br />
accessory.<br />
Still, the sharp swings of light and dark<br />
cycles are cause for pause and reflection.<br />
If you’re new to the Pacific Northwest,<br />
the lack of daylight can make for a tough<br />
adjustment. The gray days take a toll on<br />
even the toughest of psyches. Seasonal<br />
Affective Disorder (SAD), a form of<br />
depression linked to sunlight deprivation,<br />
is a real condition. It’s not uncommon to<br />
swap vitamin D level results from your<br />
most recent test with a stranger and share<br />
tips on how to combat deficiencies. It’s a<br />
bizarre thread that connects us.<br />
Yet, we somehow manage to cope and<br />
survive. And maybe self-medicate at times<br />
too—there’s a reason why most Seattle<br />
bars offer happy hour twice daily. Bourbon<br />
is my harsh weather balm.<br />
During the scant hours of daylight, we<br />
get outdoors whether for a quick run,<br />
walk or to hit the nearby slopes. Projects<br />
that can be done during evening hours get<br />
pushed until the sun goes down. We dress<br />
for the weather, which is fashion-speak for<br />
wearing copious amounts of waterproof<br />
layers, most likely bought at REI. We<br />
consume all the hot foods and beverages—<br />
coffee, hot cocoa, pho, you name it. Some<br />
turn to the balanced spectrum light solace<br />
of a light box until the real thing returns. A<br />
mid-winter jaunt to tropical climes—“It’s<br />
always summer somewhere else!”—is one<br />
of my coping tools.<br />
Winter solstice marks the shortest day<br />
of the year—ticking in at just eight hours<br />
and twenty-five minutes. Summer solstice,<br />
June 21, nearly doubles it, just shy of sixteen<br />
hours of daylight.<br />
On <strong>Dec</strong>ember 21, we begin our ascent<br />
from the proverbial basement and crawl<br />
back toward the light. Although I’ve<br />
developed solid winter survival skills,<br />
knowing sun, warmth and light approach<br />
drastically improves my behavior,<br />
temperament and general outlook on life.<br />
A gal can only handle so many Crock-Pot<br />
dinners.<br />
Why do we do it? Because Seattle<br />
summers are so sweet. Seriously. When<br />
the rest of the country is sweltering, we<br />
experience the best weather in the whole<br />
world. Where else can you sit on your deck<br />
and sip rosé into an endless stretch of dusk<br />
at 10 p.m.?<br />
When I think about growing up in<br />
Philadelphia and every hot-as-hell humid<br />
summer, I soldier through with renewed<br />
resolve. The months of gray are totally worth<br />
it. I wouldn’t trade living in Washington for<br />
anywhere else in the world.<br />
96 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2017
photos: Suzi Pratt Photography<br />
Mark your calendars — Taste Washington will be here before you know it. Sign up for<br />
our newsletter to learn about updates, ticket releases, contests, and more.<br />
welcoming sponsor<br />
Visit tastewashington.org for more information.<br />
Tickets on sale <strong>Dec</strong>ember 1!<br />
presented by<br />
March 22-25, 2018<br />
premier sponsors<br />
Celebrating<br />
21 YEARS<br />
of Washington wine<br />
Washington’s Magazine <strong>Dec</strong>ember | <strong>Jan</strong>uary 2017<br />
2017 HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE | BEST WASHINGTON HOT SPRINGS <strong>1889</strong><br />
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Walla Walla’s<br />
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Roasted Heirloom<br />
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LIVE THINK EXPLORE WASHINGTON<br />
<strong>Dec</strong>ember | <strong>Jan</strong>uary volume 6