Child-and-adult-labour-in-the-export-oriented-garment-and-gem-polishing-industry-of-India

Chapter 4
Child and adult labour in the garment export industry of Tirupur
4.1 Introduction
Tirupur is a small, but fast growing town situated in Coimbatore district in the south of Tamil
Nadu in India. The population of Tirupur is 2.35 lakhs as per 1991 census. But during the last five
years the town has developed into all directions and many little villages around Tirupur started to
develop around the centre of Tirupur due to the fast growing export knitwear or 'hosiery' industry.
Today, the population is estimated at approximately 350,000 people. The origin of the hosiery
industry in Tirupur traces back to the 1930s. Tirupur started as a cottage industry and remained so
almost up to 1980, with low production rates they mainly catered for the domestic and local markets.
But since 1980, Tirupur took advantage of the growing export markets of hosiery garments.
'From a modest beginning of Rs 9.69 crore direct export from Tirupur in the year 1984, the export
of knitted garments made an explosive growth up to Rs 1332.00 crores in 1994. The total production
of cotton knitwear exported from whole India was for 1984 and 1994 respectively, Rs 89.22
crores and Rs 2933.45 crores' 68 . Thus, Tirupur's share in the total export of knitted garments has
increased from 11% in 1984 to 45% in 1994. Today, 75% 69 of the total production of cotton
knitwear which is exported from India, is manufactured in Tirupur. In terms of the total domestic
production of knitted cotton garments of India, Tirupur accounts for about 35%, Delhi for 10%,
Calcutta for 30% and the rest is contributed by secondary centres throughout the country. Apart
from direct export from Tirupur, many garment manufacturers also are suppliers to merchant exporters
in other places like Bombay, Delhi, Bangalore and Madras from where exports take
place 70 .
Tirupur managed to start business with large foreign retail trade chains and mail order houses,
mainly in Europe, like C&A, Otto, Quelle, Karstadt, H&M, Woolworth and Kaufhalle 71 . Up to
1985 the export growth was slow but steady and was confined to T-shirts only. After 1985 the industry
diversified very quickly and took up manufacturing as well as direct exports of other outer
garments such as jerseys, pullovers, ladies' blouses, dresses and skirts, trousers, nightwear,
sportswear and industrial wear.
Due to successful manufacturing and exporting of the bulk of India's cotton knitwear (hosiery)
garments, Tirupur witnessed an explosive growth and became the pride of India in terms of major
foreign exchange earnings. The expansion of the garment industry in Tirupur was mainly caused
by the structure of the industry 72 . There was no manufacturing unit where all the processes of
producing a garment were carried out under one roof. Entrepreneurs started networking among
each other and became each other's suppliers of different processes. It proved to be more economical
to run units where only one activity was carried out, called 'job-work units'. This resulted
68 The Hindu, November 19, 1995. 'Great potential of a small town'. Op. cit.
69 The Hindu, November 19, 1995. Ibid.
70 The Hindu, November 19, 1995. Ibid.
71 The Times of India, September 9, 1995. 'An inspiring story of a boom town'.
72 A. Krishnakumar, Troubled Tirupur, Yarn price hikes put hosiery town in a bind. In: Frontline, April 7, 1995, p. 73.