December 2017 - January 2018
WAYS TO
EXPERIENCE
THE BEST OF
JAPAN
From Temple Stays to
Ukiyo-e Classes
TOKYO’S
CINEMATIC
VISTAS
Lukasz Palka is
The Light Chaser
PLUS: A-Z of 2017, the Snowboard Pro Turned Gravure Idol, and Japanese Hairstyles Through the Ages
24
16 30
36
radar
THIS MONTH’S HEAD TURNERS
8 AREA GUIDE: IKEBUKURO
This vast entertainment district has more
to offer than you think.
10 STYLE: FESTIVE FASHION
All you want for Christmas and a happy
New Year.
12 TRENDS: JAPANESE CRAFTSMAN-
SHIP MEETS NORDIC DESIGN
Hygge up your home life.
in-depth
COFFEE-BREAK READS
16 THE A-Z OF 2017
We reflect on the biggest and strangest
stories of the past year.
20 JAPANESE HAIRSTYLES THROUGH
THE AGES
How nihongami has evolved and been
shaped by cultural changes from past
to present.
22 FROM SNOWBOARD PRO TO
GRAVURE IDOL
What made Melo Imai turn her back on the
sport she grew up with and seek out
a career as a tarento instead?
24 LIGHT CHASER
Lukasz Palka has spent a decade capturing
Tokyo’s cinematic vistas.
29 33 WAYS TO EXPERIENCE THE BEST
OF JAPAN
This issue’s special 18-page section provides
plenty of inspiration and ideas for ways
to discover the heart of the country, from
temple stays to Ukiyo-e classes.
guide
CULTURE ROUNDUP
50 ART & BOOKS
Marimekko’s daring prints and bold designs;
contemporary artists’ unique takes on
Doraemon; and a trio of books to get you
through the long winter.
52 AGENDA
A Christmas market at Yokohama Red Brick
Warehouse; an igloo dinner on Andaz Tokyo’s
rooftop terrace; and one of the prettiest
winter illuminations.
54 SOCIETY
Tokyo's longest-running social column.
58 SIX WAYS TO DEVOUR TOKYO
A few dishes every traveler should have on
their menu when visiting the city.
DEC 2017 - JAN 2018
DEC 2017 - JAN 2018
Publisher
President
Executive Producer
Editor in Chief
Senior Editors
Creative Director
Designer
Features Writer
Contributors
Sales Director
Sales Executives
Marketing Director
Media Consultant
Media Producers
ENGAWA Co., Ltd.
Takanobu Ushiyama
Naoya Takahashi
Annemarie Luck
Alec Jordan
Lisa Wallin
Liam Ramshaw
Rose Vittayaset
Matthew Hernon
Vivian Morelli
Bill Hersey
Bunny Bissoux
Stephan Jarvis
Takaaki Murai
Hirofumi Ohuchi
Kahori Terakawa
Azusa Yoshida
Jessica Yumi Idomoto
Mary Rudow
Claudia Sun
Yuda Chou
Cover Photo by Lukasz Palka
EST. Corky Alexander, 1970
SSU Bld. 1F 4-12-8 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku
Tokyo, Japan 151-0051
(03) 6432-9948 / (03) 6438-9432 (fax)
info@engawa.global
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Opinions expressed by Weekender contributors
are not necessarily those of the publisher
Published by ENGAWA Co., Ltd.
4 | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | TOKYO WEEKENDER
@bapawn: Hey Annemarie, last month’s issue really
had me wanting to travel, but I have to admit I’ve got
an even worse case of wanderlust now.
@mizrama: Me too. Getting out of Tokyo and
experiencing what lies beyond is one of the best ways to
get to know the real Japan [page 30]. Although, saying
that, I took a class in traditional Japanese painting [page
45] in Omotesando the other day and it was fascinating.
@bapawn: Yes, even though I’m fantasizing about
heading on an extended temple retreat out to Eiheiji
[page 38] and following it up with a visit to some
secluded onsen ryokan [page 36], it’s nice to know
there’s so much waiting around within Tokyo city
limits, whether it’s visiting sake breweries [page 42] or
extracting my own pearls [page 43].
@mizrama: This is the thing about Tokyo, isn’t it –
whether you’re looking for traditional experiences or
you’re “chasing the light” like our cover photographer
Lukasz Palka [page 24], there is always inspiration in
unexpected places.
@bapawn: Even in Ikebukuro [page 8].
@mizrama:
@bapawn: But seriously, though, the city is full of spots
that inspire or put you in a reflective mood. I could
while away at least a couple of hours running through
all the things that happened in Japan this year [page 16].
@mizrama: It was another fairly strange year, hey? I
can’t decide what was more alarming: an LDP politician
calling her secretary “baldy” or Haruki Murakami
missing on a Nobel nod yet again.
@bapawn: And who knows what 2018 will bring … Any
predictions for the Year of the Dog?
@mizrama: Breaking News: Tsukiji Market Will Not
Move After All.
@bapawn: And Man Buns Go Extreme with Sumo Style
Cuts. [Inspiration on page 20.]
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TOKYO WEEKENDER | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | 5
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6 | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | TOKYO WEEKENDER
WHAT’S ON OUR RADAR...
We’re uncovering the real Ikebukuro, feeling playful with festive fashion,
and putting the hygge into our home life.
TOKYO WEEKENDER | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | 7
AREA GUIDE
UNCOVER
THE REAL
IKEBUKURO
Words and photographs by Stephan Jarvis
Often overlooked and derided as “the gateway
to Saitama,” this vast entertainment district
has more to offer than you think – you just
need to know where to look
THE MAIN ATTRACTIONS
For the average visitor, the biggest
draws of Ikebukuro are its
vast array of Bic Camera stores,
game centers, department stores
such as Seibu and Tobu, HUB
pubs (there are five scattered
across both sides of the station),
Sunshine-dori (which over
the years has seen an invasion
of more familiar high-street
brands) and, of course, the
Sunshine City entertainment
complex. However, there’s more
to Ikebukuro than just these
main attractions.
A PATCH OF GREEN
One of the newer and more
welcome additions is the lush,
green-grassed Minami Ikebukuro
Park, which reopened
in 2016 after extensive renovations.
A common complaint for
many living in Tokyo is the lack
of green spaces (at least, ones
that you’re allowed to sit on).
It might not win any awards for
size, but along with free seating
benches and the onsite Racines
bistro, serving a range of
freshly cooked cuisine including
barbecues when the weather is
8 | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | TOKYO WEEKENDER
MALAYCHAN IS
ONE OF THE FEW
PLACES IN TOKYO
THAT’S HALAL
CERTIFIED
Cross under the tracks to the west side and
the vibe changes somewhat. A little more
downtrodden than the east, this area caters
more to those that want to do some drinking
with their eating. The pedestrianized side
streets and clusters of izakayas, hostess bars
and so on can make it feel a little like a sibling
of the Kabukicho area of Shinjuku.
The plaza on the north-west side exit of
the station, home to the Tokyo Metropolitan
Art Space, is a popular place for people to
meet up or just hang out. It can look a little
bit on the rough side due to the presence of
homeless shelters gathered on the far side,
but there’s generally a friendly atmosphere
around the place, and there are often popup
stalls and cultural events taking place during
weekends and holidays so it’s worth checking
ahead to see what might be going on.
Just over the road is West Gate Park,
which, despite once being viewed as an
area to avoid, features the famed Malaysian
restaurant Malaychan on its perimeter.
One of the few places in Tokyo that’s halal
certified, this eatery’s fish soup curry is well
worth a try.
good, this is a great spot to relax and take a
breather.
Didn’t bring a book to read? Just around
the corner from the park is the perfect site
to go and pick one up. Even with today’s
one-click ease of online shopping, a good
bookstore catering to English reading clientele
is always a welcome feature for a city, and
Junkudo has a particularly impressive selection.
Up on the ninth floor (which also acts as
a gallery for featured artists) you can find a
range of classic and modern literature, books
for kids, specialist material, and magazines.
RAMEN, BURGERS & HALAL CURRY
Of course, good food is also an appealing
feature of many spots across Tokyo, and Ikebukuro
is no exception. There are numerous
highly rated ramen restaurants scattered
around such as the top-notch Basso Drillman,
though expect to queue for those with a more
established reputation. If ramen isn’t for you,
then stop by Darcy’s Beer & Burger and grab
a supersized cola to accompany the impressively
sized signature burger.
TOKYO WEEKENDER | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | 9
STYLE
JIMMY CHOO PUMPS
’Tis the season to be sparkly, and these Jimmy Choo
heels are the ultimate holiday party companion.
Covered in double-sided gold and silver sequins, they’ll
take you from Christmas to New Year – and everywhere
in between. If you feel hesitant about splurging on such
a festive pair of shoes that aren’t too office appropriate,
rest assured: they can be dressed down with a pair of
dark skinny jeans and a simple white shirt.
jimmychoo.com
FASHION
VALENTINO BRACELET
If you’re looking for a simple, reasonably priced
accessory that still makes a statement, this Valentino
bracelet is just what you need. Adorned with the Italian
label’s signature pale-gold studs, this slim number is
cut from high-shine silver leather, adding just a bit of
punk rock to your look. Wear it on a daily basis stacked
next to your watch, or save it for special occasions
paired with a little black dress.
valentino.com
All you want for Christmas and
a happy New Year
Compiled by Vivian Morelli
10 | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | TOKYO WEEKENDER
SAINT LAURENT SWEATER
This number is a chic version of the classic Christmas sweater – it’s plush,
colorful, and you’ll want to wear it pretty much daily. Crafted in Italy from
a soft mohair blend fabric, it’s shaggy and cozy, yet sophisticated enough
to wear to an event. It is also part of the collection designed by Anthony
Vaccarello, who recently took over as creative director of Saint Laurent,
and we can definitely feel the Italian influence in this piece.
ysl.com
JAEGER-LECOULTRE WATCH
If you’re ready to invest in a timepiece that will take you through
the next several decades, look no further than Jaeger-LeCoultre, the
Swiss watchmaker known for intricacy and expertise. We love their
sleek and simple styles, and this Master Calendar model, with its
romantic moon phase and 18-karat rose gold case, encompasses
everything that makes JLC such a cult brand.
jaeger-lecoultre.com
BALMAIN DRESS
No matter where in the world you
spend the holidays, you’ll need
that one go-to dress you can wear
to every function you’re invited to,
including and not limited to endof-the-year
office parties, family
get-togethers, and nights out with
friends. We think this dress has it
all: it’s got long sleeves (because
who wants to wear sleeveless
dresses in the winter?), and it
combines velvet, crystals and gold
eyelets (ideal for a celebration).
Keep it simple with elegant black
heels and no accessories.
balmain.com
GUCCI BOOTS
It’s no secret that Gucci is experiencing a huge comeback
lately – their collections over the past few years are just
so beautiful, and good luck trying to get your hands on
their most coveted items before they sell out. These boots
are a perfect example of the Gucci aesthetic, combining
80s punk undertones with more traditional brogue
perforations, and tiger-head buckles. Keep them in the
spotlight and pair them with jeans or black trousers and
a simple shirt. Or go all out and wear head-to-toe, tigeremblazoned
Gucci. gucci.com
TOKYO WEEKENDER | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | 11
TRENDS
JAPANESE
CRAFTSMANSHIP
MEETS NORDIC
DESIGN
HYGGE UP YOUR HOME LIFE TO HELP FIND YOUR
IGOKOCHI AT KURASHI NO KATACHI
HYGGE MEETS IGOKOCHI
Beyond the furniture itself, Kurashi no
Katachi connects the Danish concept of hygge
and the Japanese igokochi (“comfortable
life”). These life philosophies may be similar,
on the surface, but rather they complement
each other, and have been used to create the
ultimate comfort zone in our homes. By moving
away from mindless consumerism and
focusing on a few beautifully made products,
you can “edit” your home life into a happier,
more comfortable one. By using high quality
tools, a craftsman can create better art. In the
same way, expensive tableware can enhance
the appearance of your food, in turn making
it taste better – the same concept applies to
furniture. Surround yourself in understated
luxury to create a home environment you can
truly feel at home in.
In a meeting of minds, design and culture,
Kurashi no Katachi (“The Form of
Living”) opened in August 2017 to give
homage to understated luxury. The showroom,
inside LIVING DESIGN CENTER
OZONE, combines two previous exhibits
– Nippon Form and Nordic Form – and
introduces the best facets of Japanese and
Nordic design, woven together seamlessly.
HARMONY IN DESIGN
Both Japan and the Nordic countries have
long traditions of treasuring furniture and
other interior items, taking care of them so
that they can be passed on to the next generation.
Mixing the two may seem difficult, but
the simplicity of design from both regions
works surprisingly well – so well, in fact, that
you may not know which item is originally
from where. Here you’ll find wooden furniture
by Børge Mogensen and Hans J. Wegner
perfectly paired with Japanese traditional
lacquerware items, or decorated with washi
paper umbrella accessories and lanterns.
12 | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | TOKYO WEEKENDER
[ PROMOTION ]
WHAT’S ON
AT OZONE
TRADITION FOR ETERNITY
Everyone lives such different lifestyles – there
is no right or wrong in interior design, as
people are free to choose what works for
them. By combining both Nordic and Japanese
designs, as well as mixing and matching
vintage and modern pieces, Kurashi no
Katachi strives to meet the needs of people
with a range of backgrounds and tastes.
Even so, they can confidently give one piece
of advice: choose items that will last generations.
By this, they don’t simply mean a piece
of furniture that is well made: instead, choose
something that is high quality and has a simple
design. Minimalist, understated elegance
is always in style. This is where Nordic and
Japanese designs excel – and Kurashi no Katachi
boasts an exceptional selection of both
in interior accessories and furniture.
Two events to help you find
the best way to create a cozy
home this winter
GIFT – GIVE
A GIFT TO
A SPECIAL
PERSON OR
INDULGE
YOURSELF
As another
year comes to an end, it’s a time to look
back at the hardships we faced and
the joy we received. Show gratitude to
friends and family for their support by
finding them the perfect gift. Or reward
yourself for all you’ve accomplished
by indulging with a little bit of luxury
in your daily life. Kurashi no Katachi
has curated an exclusive selection
of presents for these purposes. Here
you’ll find practical, beautifully made
items, such as a high-quality wool
blanket, and delicate “letter” lanterns
made from washi paper that can
be custom-designed (find the artist
within and send a loved one a personal,
hand-painted beacon of light for their
home). Nov 30-Jan 5, Kurashi no Katachi,
5F OZONE
CLASSIC
FURNITURE
COLLECTION
2018
Discover the
very best of
the golden age
of Scandinavian design in this vintage
collection of 1950s and 1960s furniture.
Kurashi no Katachi has curated
an exclusive selection of furniture
for the year to come. Over 160 items
will be on display, including dining
tables and nesting tables, cabinets and
bookshelves, interior accessories such
as candle holders, and more. There will
also be an exclusive selection of Royal
Copenhagen plates and cups available
for purchase. Jan 25-Mar 13, Kurashi no
Katachi, 5F OZONE
STANDARD OF THE FUTURE
Staff at Kurashi no Katachi choose each individual item in the showroom with the utmost care,
following a policy of predicting “the standard of the future.” This means they strive to create a
personal connection between the individual and their chosen furniture that goes beyond just
liking the design. To do this, they gather vintage favorites and pair them with new, innovative
designs to show how well they match and to help fuel customers’ imaginations for their own
homes. Furniture should always have the possibility of being mended, allowing pieces to be
lovingly used for a long time.
LIVING DESIGN CENTER OZONE
Address: 3F-7F Shinjuku Park Tower,
3-7-1 Nishishinjuku, Shinjuku-ku
Web: www.ozone.co.jp/eng
TOKYO WEEKENDER | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | 13
Looking for a great place to eat, shop, sleep or play in Tokyo? Welcome to Weekender's
roundup of recommended restaurants, hotels, stores, salons and more. Here, we share
this month's editor's picks, but for the full lineup – as well as reader discounts and
special offers – simply head to www.tokyoweekender.com/the-concierge
Elana Jade Club 360
In need of some pampering? Elana Jade offers a range of deluxe
beauty treatments that will have you looking beautiful from
head to toe. All products used in our organic skincare lines are
delivered by internationally trained and experienced therapists.
Special offer: Enjoy a Polish Manicure for ¥4,000, valid until
January 31, 2018.
Club 360 is Tokyo’s premier fitness and rehabilitation
center, offering personal training as well as treatment for
sports injuries, musculoskeletal and spinal conditions,
and rehabilitation programs in a spacious and private
setting. Club 360 also offers sports massage. Special offer: Book
in on any Monday and receive the “Massage Monday” special
discount.
HEALTH, BEAUTY & FITNESS | EDITORS CHOICE
www.elanajade.com
03-6453-9319
www.club360.jp
03-6434-9667
B1 Cma3 Building, 3-1-35 Motoazabu, Minato-ku
HEALTH, BEAUTY & FITNESS | EDITORS CHOICE
4F NS Azabu Juban Building, 3-6-2 Azabu Juban, Minato-ku
ABOUT TOWN | EDITORS CHOICE
Fujimoto
Dental Clinic
At this Ginza-based clinic, which was
founded in 1981, you’ll not only receive
world-class specialist restorative
and periodontal dental care, but you’ll
also be in the expert hands of Dr Kohei Fujimoto.
He is fluent in English, a graduate of the
University of Washington’s Graduate Periodontics
Program, and certified as a Diplomate of the
American Board of Periodontology. Appointments
can be made via phone.
www.fujimoto-dental.com
03-5551-0051
4F Kami-Pulp Kaikan, 3-9-11 Ginza, Chuo-ku
14 | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | TOKYO WEEKENDER
PAST, PRESENT, FUTURE
We bid farewell to 2017, look at how Japanese hairstyles have evolved through the ages, and
give an admiring nod to the futuristic cinematic vistas of our favorite city.
TOKYO WEEKENDER | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | 15
AS WE BID FAREWELL TO
ANOTHER YEAR AND WELCOME
A FRESH START, WE REFLECT
ON THE BIGGEST AND
STRANGEST STORIES
OF THE PAST YEAR
Words by Matthew Hernon
ANTI-CONSPIRACY LAW
SPARKS FEARS OVER
CIVIL LIBERTIES
After being delayed three times
due to widespread public opposition, the
controversial anti-conspiracy law that gives
authorities the right to prosecute those who
plan crimes even if they don’t carry them out,
came into effect in July. According to the government,
the bill was necessary for Japan to
become a party to the UN Convention against
Transnational Organized Crime and in order
to protect its citizens leading up to the 2020
Olympics. Critics, however, have called it
an abuse of power and an unconstitutional
attack on freedom of expression, while also
taking issue with the inclusion of lesser
crimes such as copying music and mushroom
picking in conservation areas.
BLACK WIDOW SENTENCED
TO DEATH BY HANGING
Chisako Kakehi, who used cyanide
to murder her husband and two
former lovers, and attempted to kill another
man, will now face the executioner herself.
Dubbed the “Black Widow” (a term derived
from the female spider that sometimes eats
its mate after copulation), she reportedly
inherited around one billion yen from the
death of her partners. Judge Ayako Nakagawa
described the 70-year-old’s actions as “cunning
and malicious,” stating that she had “no
choice but to impose the ultimate penalty of
death.” At one stage Kakehi admitted to killing
her husband, but lawyers said the testimony
couldn’t be trusted as she had dementia.
CHEATING ACCUSATION GOES
VIRAL FOLLOWING AC-
TRESS’S YOUTUBE RANT
A public spat between celebrity
couple Kazuyo Matsui and Eiichiro Funakoshi
caused quite a stir this summer with
the former accusing her actor husband of
adultery. She even uploaded a six-minute
video in English to reach out to a larger
audience. The 60-year-old actress claimed
Funakoshi was having an affair with her
best friend in Hawaii while also saying he
couldn’t have sex without Viagra, had fake
hair, and was after her money. Funakoshi’s
agency, HoriPro, announced they’d taken
legal action against Matsui for defamation
and business obstruction.
DEMOCRATIC PARTY
IMPLODES: LDP SAILS TO
VICTORY
A few days after Prime Minister
Abe called a snap election, leader of the
opposition Seiji Maehara disbanded the
Democratic Party, encouraging candidates
to run under the Party of Hope led by Yuriko
Koike. However, the Tokyo governor rejected
liberal and left-leaning members of the DP,
so Yukio Edano, the face of Japan during the
2011 nuclear crisis, formed the Constitutional
Democratic Party. With the competition
fragmented, the LDP and coalition partner,
Komeito, strolled to victory at the general
election, garnering a two-thirds majority.
The CDP became the largest opposition force
in the Diet, winning 54 seats, while the Party
of Hope won just 49. Koike later resigned as
leader.
EMPEROR AKIHITO GIVEN
PERMISSION TO ABDICATE
CHRYSANTHEMUM THRONE
In June, the Japanese government
passed a one-off bill giving the emperor permission
to stand down from a position he’s
held for almost three decades. He will become
the first monarch to renounce the throne
since Emperor Kokaku back in 1817. The
Heisei Era is expected to end on March 31,
2019, with Crown Prince Naruhito succeeding
to the throne the following day. In other royal
news, Princess Mako, eldest granddaughter
of the emperor, announced her engagement
to former classmate Kei Komuro. As he is a
commoner, she will be forced to quit the
royal family.
FUJII FEVER SWEEPS THE
NATION
The Japanese public fell back in
love with shogi this year when
14-year-old school boy Sota Fujii went on a
29-game winning streak, breaking a record
that stood for three decades. Interest in the
teen intensified with each victory, and by
the end of the historic 29th game there were
reportedly 7.4 million viewers watching
on Ameba TV’s shogi channel. Fujii, who
learned the basic rules of the game from his
grandmother, turned professional at 14 years
and two months. His first official win came
against legendary figure Hifumi Kato, the
game’s oldest pro, who this year retired after
a career spanning six decades.
GRUELLING WORK
SCHEDULE CAUSES
REPORTER’S DEATH
NHK this year revealed that one
of its former employees died from karoshi
(death from overwork). Journalist Miwa
Sado, 31, passed away from congestive heart
failure in 2013, though the public broadcaster
decided to wait four years to make the
death public because her parents originally
wanted it kept quiet before changing their
minds this summer. Sado did 159 hours and
37 minutes of overtime in one month covering
a regional and national election. She was
found collapsed on her bed holding a mobile
phone. Japan is planning to cap overtime
at 100 hours a month, though many believe
that is still too excessive.
TOKYO WEEKENDER | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | 17
HAWKS DOWN DENA TO WIN
JAPAN SERIES
A ding-dong battle between
Fukuoka SoftBank Hawks and
Yokohama DeNA Baystars ended in dramatic
fashion as Keizo Kawashima hit a sayonara
single in the 11th inning of the sixth game to
clinch the Series 4-2 for the Pacific League
champions. Having lost the first three matches,
DeNA fought back bravely and looked set
to make it 3-3 overall until the bottom of the
ninth when Hawks tied the game. Pitcher
Dennis Sarfate was named MVP. The Hiroshima
Carp clinched their second successive
Central League championship, but lost to
DeNa in the Climax Series.
ISHIGURO RECEIVES NOBEL
PRIZE IN LITERATURE AS MU-
RAKAMI MISSES OUT AGAIN
After awarding the Nobel Prize in
Literature to Belarusian journalist Svetlana
Alexievich in 2015, and Bob Dylan in 2016,
the Swedish Academy decided to go down the
more traditional route this year, giving the
accolade to Remains of the Day and Never Let
Me Go author Kazuo Ishiguro for novels that
“uncovered the abyss beneath our illusory
sense of connection with the world” and were
driven by a “great emotional force.” The British
writer’s accomplishment was celebrated
in Nagasaki where he was born, but not by
everyone in Japan. For Harukists – ardent
fans of Haruki Murakami – the long wait
goes on.
-ALERT WARNING SYSTEM
CAUSES CONFUSION IN
NORTHERN JAPAN
In the space of a month, North Korea
launched two missiles over Japan,
triggering the J-Alert system. In numerous
prefectures in the north of the country, warnings
blared out from loudspeakers, messages
were sent to mobile phones, and regular TV
programs were interrupted. Citizens were
told to take cover in a sturdy building or
escape underground; however, in many areas
there are no such places nearby, so residents
were confused as to what to do. Some complained
that the warning area was too vast,
causing panic in cities that clearly wouldn’t
be affected.
KIRYU BREAKS NEW
GROUND WITH SUB-10
SECOND RUN
It’s been a good year for Japanese
sprinters. At the Athletics World Championships
in London, 18-year-old Sani Brown
raced into the record books, overtaking Usain
Bolt as the youngest ever finalist in the men’s
200 meters. In the 4x100 meters relay, Shuhei
Tada, Shota Iizuka, Yoshihide Kiryu and Kenji
Fujimitsu came in third behind winners Great
Britain and the United States, giving Japan its
first medal of the championships. A month
later, Kiryu became the first Japanese runner
to break the 10-second barrier in the 100
meters, clocking 9.98 seconds at an intercollegiate
meet in Fukui.
LDP LAWMAKER PHYSICAL-
LY AND VERBALLY ABUSES
“BALDY” SECRETARY
Harvard graduate Mayuko Toyota
was forced to resign from the Liberal Democratic
Party after weekly magazine Shukan
Shincho released an audio file of her in a car
yelling insults at her secretary. Referring to
him as hage (“baldy”), she screams about
him damaging her reputation while the man
apologizes and pleads with her not to hit him
while he’s driving. According to the magazine,
in a separate incident she had threatened
to crush his head with a lead pipe. Under
pressure from LDP leaders, Toyota agreed to
leave the party and was then hospitalized due
to her unstable condition.
MORITOMO AND KAKE
SCANDALS DAMAGE
ABE’S REPUTATION
In February it was reported
that Moritomo Gakuen, an ultra-nationalist
Osaka-based school operator, had been given
permission to construct a new elementary
school on a government-owned tract of land.
The price was just ¥134 million, over ¥800 million
less than the appraisal value, and Japan’s
first lady Akie Abe was listed as the honorary
principal. As a result, accusations of favoritism
were levelled at the government. Three
months later, the prime minister was again on
the defensive as he was accused of helping his
friend Kotaro Kake win approval for a private
veterinary school. Despite there being no actual
evidence of cronyism, Abe’s approval rating
sank to an unprecedented low of 26 percent.
NINJA BURGLAR, 74, NABBED
AFTER EIGHT-YEAR CRIME
SPREE
Always dressed in black with a
neck warmer pulled up to his nose and a hood
down to his eyes, the Ninja Burglar had the agility
to run on top of roofs and squeeze through
tight spaces. For eight years he managed to
avoid capture, stealing cash and goods worth
around ¥30 million, but his luck finally ran
out this spring when the neck warmer he was
wearing slipped, revealing to security cameras
the face of senior citizen Mitsuaki Tanigawa. “If
I were younger, I wouldn’t have been caught,”
he was quoted as saying. “I’ll quit now as I’m 74
and old enough.”
OKINOSHIMA GRANTED
WORLD HERITAGE STATUS
A sacred religious island in Japan
that bans women and requires
men to strip naked before entering was this
year declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Okinoshima, along with three nearby reefs and
four related locations, joined the country’s 20
other natural sites already recognized by the
United Nations cultural agency. Thousands of
artifacts, brought over as gifts from abroad,
can be found on the remote island, including
gold rings and swords. Visitors must undergo a
cleansing ritual upon arrival, are not permitted
to take anything away with them and must
never speak of the trip.
POP PRINCESS SET TO CALL IT
QUITS
Considered music royalty in Japan,
Namie Amuro has amassed 14 number
one singles and sold over 35 million records
in a career spanning a quarter of a century. To
the surprise and disappointment of her many
fans she announced on her 40th birthday this
autumn that she would be retiring in 2018. Her
last ever album, Finally, a compilation of 52
songs spanning her entire career, was released
in November and sold over one million copies
in its first week. She is the only Japanese artist
to reach the million selling mark in her teens,
20s, 30s and 40s.
QUALITY CONTROL LAPSES
HARM “JAPAN BRAND” IMAGE
Once the envy of the world, Japanese
manufacturing companies
have long been known for their meticulous
attention to detail and concepts such as kaizen
(continuous improvement). This year, however,
many major corporations in the country have
made headlines for all the wrong reasons. In
January, three Takata Corporation executives
were sued because of the company’s defective
airbags. A few months later, Takata filed for
chapter 11 in the US and bankruptcy protection
in Japan. In the automobile industry, meanwhile,
it was uncovered that Subaru and Nissan
had conducted inspections by uncertified staff,
while Kobe Steel Ltd. revealed that it falsified
data related to the strength and durability of
some aluminum and copper products used in
aircrafts and cars.
18 | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | TOKYO WEEKENDER
RACIST TWEET OVERSHAD-
OWS SATO’S INDY 500
TRIUMPH
Ex-Formula One driver Takuma
Sato this year became the first ever Asian
driver to win the Indianapolis 500, the event
popularly known as “the greatest spectacle in
racing.” Unfortunately, his victory was slightly
marred by a tweet sent by The Denver Post
journalist Terry Frei who wrote, “Nothing specifically
personal, but I am very uncomfortable
with a Japanese driver winning the Indianapolis
500 during Memorial Day weekend.”
After a backlash, the columnist apologized,
stating that his father had been a veteran of
World War II. But the damage had been done
and he was fired by the newspaper.
SEX CRIME LAWS
FINALLY AMENDED
AFTER 110 YEARS
In what is the first major overhaul
in more than a century, Japan’s penal code
stipulating tighter sentences against sexual
crimes went into effect this summer. Revisions
include raising the minimum sentence
for rapists from three to five years as well
as the removal of a provision that requires
victims of sexual crimes to press charges in
order to prosecute. It also broadened the
definition of rape to include oral and anal
sex. In May, journalist Shiori Ito called a press
conference, telling reporters that she had
been raped by a high-profile TV reporter, but
he was never prosecuted because of what she
claims was a flawed investigation.
TORRENTIAL RAIN BATTERS
KYUSHU, KILLING 36
In early July, several cities were
badly damaged as the heaviest
rainfall on record hammered the southwestern
island of Kyushu. The downpour was caused by
a phenomenon known as senjo kosuitai (linear
rainbands) in which bands of giant cumulonimbus
clouds remain stationary in the air for
several hours. It triggered widespread flooding,
and landslides were reported in several areas.
Over 400,000 people were forced to evacuate
their homes as parts of Fukuoka Prefecture
were hit with 774mm of rain in just nine hours.
Thirty-six people died as a result of the disaster.
UNKO KANJI DORIRU
AUTHOR MAKES A
FORTUNE FROM POO
A series of six kanji study books
featuring 3,018 sentences that all include the
word “poo” has proved a massive hit this
year, selling more than two million copies
in its first three months. Released in March,
Unko Kanji Doriru (Poo Kanji Drills) attempts
to give children a more enjoyable learning
experience by associating kanji characters
with a word they all seem to love. “Adults
would raise their eyebrows, but for children,
the word ‘poo’ is magical and makes things
fun,” author Yusaku Furuya told Kyodo News.
Japanese kids are expected to be able to read
and write 1,006 kanji characters by the time
they finish primary school.
VANILLA AIR APOLOGIZES
TO DISABLED MAN FORCED
TO CRAWL UP STEPS
Informed that he wasn’t allowed
to board a flight back to his hometown of
Osaka from the southern island of Amami
because there was no wheelchair access,
disabled-rights activist Hideto Kijima decided
to get on the plane anyway by crawling up a
portable boarding staircase. The budget airline,
which is owned by All Nippon Airways,
apologized to the passenger and announced
that it had ordered an electric wheelchair
lift for its planes from Amami following the
incident. On his Facebook page, Kijima received
both support and criticism, with some
accusing him of unfairly targeting the airline
or making unreasonable demands.
WORLD CUP QUALIFICA-
TION SECURED FOR
SAMURAI BLUE
Japan qualified for its sixth
consecutive World Cup after beating Australia
2-0. Under pressure going into the game,
coach Vahid Halilhodzic’s decision to play a
relatively youthful side, dropping high-profile
players such as Shinji Kagawa, Shinji Okazaki
and Keisuke Honda, paid off. In club football,
Rafael Silva was the hero as Urawa Reds became
the first J-League side in 10 years to win
the Asian Champions League. The Brazilian
striker scored in both legs of the final as the
Saitama-based club defeated Saudi Arabia’s
Al-Hilal 2-1 on aggregate, earning them a
place at the Club World Cup alongside Real
Madrid in December.
XIANG XIANG CHOSEN AS
THE NAME OF JAPAN’S
NEWEST PANDA
Following a record 322,581
suggestions from the public, Tokyo governor
Yuriko Koike announced that Ueno Zoo’s
latest main attraction would be called Xiang
Xiang, 100 days after the panda was born to
mother Shin Shin and father Ri Ri. The name,
which means either “fragrance” or “popular”
in Chinese, received 5,161 submissions. Her
parents arrived in Tokyo in 2011 and gave
birth to a male cub a year later. It was the
zoo’s first panda delivery in 24 years, but sadly
he died of pneumonia after just six days.
Xiang Xiang is expected to make her public
debut in December.
YOKOZUNA HARUMAFUJI
INJURES FELLOW WRES-
TLER IN KARAOKE BRAWL
Grand sumo champion Harumafuji
is set to be referred to prosecutors after
assaulting lower-ranked wrestler Takanoiwa
following a drink-fueled altercation in Tottori.
The renowned Mongolian Yokozuna admitted
to striking his fellow countryman with his
fists and a remote control, but denied using
a bottle in the attack. It’s the latest in a long
line of scandals that have engulfed the sport
in recent years, and occurred at a time when
sumo was regaining popularity. In January,
Kisenosato delighted Japanese fans by becoming
the first homegrown wrestler to attain the
rank of Yokozuna in 19 years.
ZAMA SERIAL KILLER SUS-
PECT ALLEGEDLY HID BODY
PARTS IN COOLERS
Takahiro Shiraishi admitted to the
police that he murdered nine people, all aged
between 15 and 26, before dismembering their
bodies at his small apartment in Zama, Kanagawa
Prefecture. The unemployed 27-year-old
allegedly contacted females via Twitter, telling
them he would assist with their suicides, and
then killed them shortly after they met. He has
also confessed to rendering them unconscious
and hanging them with a rope. The killing
spree reportedly lasted two months. Shiraishi
told officers that he took three days to
dismember his first victim before slaying her
boyfriend who had tracked him down.
TOKYO WEEKENDER | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | 19
JAPANESE
HAIRSTYLES
THROUGH THE AGES
We take a look at how nihongami has evolved and been shaped by
cultural changes throughout the history of Japan
Nihongami literally translates to “Japanese hair”
and covers the various hairstyles from the Kofun
period (250-538) to the early Showa period (1926-
1989). Early Japan was strongly shaped by Chinese
culture, but by the Heian period (794-1185) noble
courts rejected these influences. Heian aristocrats were notably
particular about their fashion, and their beauty standards
were exceptionally high. Women grew out their hair and wore
it straight in the style depicted in the famous illustration from
The Tale of Genji. Washing the hair was an arduous task, especially
since noblewomen could barely
move in their 12 layers of kimono – attendants
had to do most of the work.
After the Heian period, hairstyles slowly
became more elaborate – we’ll skip to the
Edo period (1603-1868), which was a golden
era for nihongami. During this time, the
vast number of hairstyles recorded through
ukiyo-e prints and other materials was unprecedented.
This era saw the rise of merchants
and merchants’ wives who drove
popular fashion, as they had the means and
the time to spend on such frivolities. Samurai
and their families had status and controlled
the government, but were limited
financially.
The shimada was one of the many styles that became
popular (of which there are multiple types) but it generally
featured wide parts to the sides by the ears and was pulled
up into a bun at the top or back. Each type of hairstyle was a
visible indicator of a woman’s status or role in society – a widow
would carry a different coif from a young unwed girl. Hair
accessories and combs would be inserted into the hair, making
Words by Lisa Wallin. Illustrations by Bunny Bissoux
EACH TYPE OF
HAIRSTYLE
WAS A VISIBLE
INDICATOR OF A
WOMAN’S STATUS
OR ROLE IN
SOCIETY
them very heavy – especially if extra hairpieces to add volume
were inserted. These hairstyles were meant to last for several
days – even up to a week – and were held in place by wax.
Similar styles can be seen on modern geisha and maiko,
though they have an even broader range of designs. One of
the most elaborate styles – known as hyogo – spreads the hair
bun at the back into a butterfly shape. Courtesans wearing this
style during the Edo period would also shave the hair at their
temples and forehead to form a widow’s peak.
With the Meiji Restoration (1868), a rush towards Western
trends and styles drew forth, especially visible
in the Taisho, and Showa periods that
followed. Men drove the change in fashion
and hair at this point – leaving behind status
symbols like the chonmage (topknot)
hair of samurai and favoring shorter cuts
and mustaches. Women were more restricted,
but slowly started changing too –
first with their hair, and then by postwar
Showa eventually shedding the kimono as
daily wear.
Though the traditional nihongami style
technically ended with the Showa period
– it’s a style almost synonymous with the
wearing of kimono – young Japanese people
have continued to find creative ways to
express themselves through their hair. The 1980s bubble era
cuts and waves, as well as the 1990s spiked host hair (that lasted
well into the 2000s!) are still clear indicators of those time
periods. Currently, trends are leaning towards more unisex
and androgynous looks, with more daring color palettes for
both men and women. What will the next chapter of modren
nihongami look like? Only time will tell.
20 | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | TOKYO WEEKENDER
TOKYO WEEKENDER | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | 21
WHAT MADE MELO IMAI TURN HER BACK ON THE
SPORT SHE GREW UP WITH AND SEEK OUT A
CAREER AS A TARENTO INSTEAD?
Words by Matthew Hernon
The PyeongChang Winter Olympics
is just two months away and team
Japan will be hoping for much
better results than they managed at
the Turin Games in 2006. Back then
there was only one shining light as Shizuka
Arakawa became the first individual from
this country to win a gold medal in figure
skating. It was a memorable achievement
that was celebrated up and down the land.
The years of vigorous training, early mornings
and strict dieting had all been worth it
as the elegant skater realized her lifelong
dream.
As for the rest of the Japanese competitors,
there was little to get excited about. Expectations
were high going into the Games,
yet just one athlete managed to make the
podium. Among those tipped to challenge for
a medal was 17-year-old snowboarder Melo
Imai in the halfpipe competition. She had
made remarkable progress since becoming
a professional aged just 12 and was in good
form going into the event, but in the end
finished last in the qualifying round after injuring
her torso and abdomen. The contrast
between the youngster and the successful
Arakawa could not have been any starker.
While the latter cried tears of joy, Imai was a
blubbering wreck.
Despite still being in her teens, it was effectively
the end of what had looked like an
extremely promising career. She competed
again and won at the Takasaki Cup in 2008,
but her heart wasn’t really in it. The physical
pain she was able to recover from, but the
mental anguish went much deeper. The
youngster grew to resent snowboarding and
everything it represented. The fun element
had gone. It was simply about winning and
the pressure had become insufferable.
“For many athletes the Olympics is the
pinnacle of their career, but for me it was a
nightmare,” Imai tells Weekender. “I don’t
just mean because I got injured and failed to
progress. The whole experience was terrible.
Leading up to the Games I had this constant
fear of failure, like a choking feeling. It was
the same throughout my career.”
The feeling that she constantly needed
to please her father was one of the main
reasons for the stress, especially in the early
days. “I knew if I lost he would be angry,”
recalls Imai. “When I won he would compliment
me, and that was my motivation.
I wasn’t doing it for myself at all. He was
delighted that I qualified for the Olympics;
however, in the months leading up to the
Games I stopped contacting him. I thought
that would give me a new lease on life, but
I was then winning tournaments and not
feeling anything. I started to question what
it really meant to be number one. Even if I’d
finished first in Turin, I don’t think I would
have been satisfied. I wish I hadn’t gone.”
Imai began snowboarding at the age of
seven along with her nine-year-old brother
Dome Narita. They had been encouraged
to take up the sport by their father Takasha
Narita, who founded a snowboarding
club in Japan after being impressed by a
kids’ school he took them to in Canada. His
children quickly became the star pupils, and
Narita pushed them hard so they would be
able to reach their potential.
It soon had the desired effect. At the
age of 14, Imai became the world junior
halfpipe champion, and in the build-up to
LEADING UP TO THE GAMES I HAD THIS
CONSTANT FEAR OF FAILURE, LIKE A CHOKING
FEELING. IT WAS THE SAME THROUGHOUT
MY CAREER
the 2016 Olympics she defeated a number
of top contenders including eventual silver
medalist Lindsey Jacobellis. From the outside
she looked like a carefree teen living
the dream, but the reality was somewhat
different. Training sessions were tough with
an emphasis on discipline and hard work
rather than enjoyment, and away from the
snow there was little respite.
“We would often go to Nagano to
practice, and work on our technique with a
trampoline at our home in Osaka,” recalls
Imai. “Training would usually start at 5am
and sometimes I wouldn’t be finished until
11 at night. Dad said we should be constantly
focusing on snowboarding, so I didn’t
have to attend school. As a result, I didn’t
get much of an education.”
She also wasn’t allowed a social life. “My
hair was short, and I always wore training
pants,” says the former Olympian. “I didn’t
have the opportunity to be like other girls,
wearing make-up, going to karaoke, shopping
with friends and so on. I envied people
my age having the freedom to do the kind of
things that are considered normal for most
teenagers. It just wasn’t an option for me as
I felt I couldn’t disobey my father.”
Eventually it all became too much. She
broke off ties with the man who had got
her into snowboarding in the first place,
and changed her name from Narita to her
mother’s maiden name of Imai. Her brother
had stopped working with his father months
earlier. Dome, who is now a minor celebrity
in Japan, was also seen as a genuine
contender for a medal in Turin, but like his
sister failed to qualify for the final. He continued
competing for another year before
turning his back on the sport following an
injury. For a long period he couldn’t even
look at a snowboard, and he completely
withdrew from society.
Imai had an even tougher time. After
initially shutting herself away, she tried to
rebuild her life, but with no qualifications
or skills except for snowboarding and wake
boarding, it proved difficult. She struggled
to make ends meet working at a convenience
store and family restaurant.
But in recent years things have been
looking up. She has worked as a gravure
idol (a model who appears in magazines,
photobooks or DVDs targeted at men) and
has featured in some more adult material,
which she says has helped to clear her debt.
A single mother of two, her children are
the most important part of her life, and she
doesn’t want her own financial difficulties
to impact on their lives. Working as a model
has also helped to give the 27-year-old more
confidence in herself.
“I used to be really shy and felt that I
always needed to cover my body,” she says.
“That is something that has changed in
recent years. I’ve had work done, but it isn’t
the only reason. Since I started working as
a gravure idol in 2013, I began to believe in
myself much more. To do that kind of job
you can’t be a shrinking violet. It has helped
me a lot.”
Often portrayed as a tragic figure by the
press, Imai comes across as quite a positive
character when you meet her in person.
There have been a number of low points
down the years, but she doesn’t regret the
decisions she’s made and insists that she’s
now in a happy place.
“There’s been a lot written about my life
in magazines and newspapers, but I believe
people shouldn’t judge me based on what
they’ve read,” Imai says. “Speak to me and
you will see that not everything is negative
in my life. I’m enjoying my work as a gravure
idol and am back snowboarding again.
I’m also coaching the sport to various kinds
of people, including my son and daughter.
I want to make it fun without putting them
under any pressure at all: The exact opposite
to how I was taught.”
TOKYO WEEKENDER | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | 23
LIGHT
CHASER
Inspired by the cinematic vistas that Tokyo
has to offer, photographer Lukasz Palka
has spent nearly a decade capturing the
city’s bright spots and hidden corners
Words by Tracy Jones
Photographs by Lukasz Palka
24 | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | TOKYO WEEKENDER
EVEN THOUGH IT’S A
CITY OF 13 MILLION
PEOPLE ... THERE ARE
THESE UNKNOWN
PLACES
endless ... As a photographer, there are so
many stories to tell, so many things to shoot.”
His Noctopolis series is a collection of
night images that capture a city unwinding
from its daily grind. In one photo, there’s a
narrow enclave exposing the back kitchen of
a Chinese restaurant. The scene is a cavernous
patchwork of hangers, a sink, two white
statues of smiling children, and tarp hanging
from the ceiling corners. Colors and detail
compose chaos. Everything looks like it could
be covered in grease with peach hairs of dust
and grit, giving it texture. Lukasz says that he
was thinking of the street scenes from Blade
Runner when he shot it. (At the time of writing,
the film Blade Runner 2049 had just been
released in Japan. Lukasz had already seen it.
He says he “still prefers the original. But this
one was a great continuation and expansion
of the world. I enjoyed it a lot.”) The film’s
apparent influence on Lukasz’s work gives
Photographer and
Eyexplore co-founder
Lukasz Palka came to
Tokyo as a Sophia University
exchange student. He
was born in Poland, but his parents
immigrated to Chicago when he
was five. After graduating college,
to postpone “getting a real job,” he
figured he’d teach English in Japan.
It didn’t seem far-fetched since some
of his friends were already doing
it. Nine years ago, his plan was to
stay here for a year. While teaching
during the day and photographing
Tokyo at night, he fell in love with
the city. Taking pictures was always
a casual hobby. It was something
that he picked up from his father, but
the longer he stayed here, the more
serious he got about his craft. “What
I like most is Tokyo itself,” he says.
Famous for its otherworldly
culture, the city’s nightscape is like
an incarnation of the film Tron.
The limelights of Tokyo’s popular
spots beam an omnipresent tone,
coloring the reflecting streets. It’s
the dark fringes of those areas that
Lukasz drifts through, unearthing
their beauty as though mining
treasure. “Tokyo does have its touristy
spots, but if you go 15 minutes
in any direction, away from those
hot spots, suddenly you’re on your
own. You might find something
to photograph that no one’s ever
photographed before. Even though
it’s a city of 13 million people ...
there are these unknown places,”
he says. Focusing on landscape
and street photography, “Tokyo is
extremely diverse when you go to
different areas ... it’s so big and
TOKYO WEEKENDER | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | 25
FROM ABOVE, THE STREETS ARE
GRIDDED CRACKS OF LIGHT. THE
LIGHT IS LIFE. DARKNESS IS DEATH,
CLOAKING THE SKY
perspective to his other series, L’appel du
vide, French for “the call of the void.”
It’s a sequence of rooftop photos, and
named after a phenomenon that urges the
mind to naturally think about self-sabotage
or suicide. When Lukasz wandered
up to rooftops, he’d point his camera down
toward the city and feel the call. “At first
I was just exploring the alleys,” he says,
which eventually led him to look up. From
above, the streets are gridded cracks of
light. The light is life. Darkness is death,
cloaking the sky. Perhaps from a foreigner’s
perspective, the roofs are actually a
refuge from the illuminated eye of a homogenous
world. He says the atmosphere
up there is “serene.”
Other classic Tokyo-inspired flicks
like Akira, Ghost in the Shell, and The 5th
Element also inform his work. They give
him a “feedback loop of inspiration.” To
study how images communicate story,
watching film helps him develop content
and context. “In photos, because it’s a still,
the emphasis is so much on composition.
The really impressive photos have really
wild composition. There are so many layers
to [them]. In movies, that’s sometimes
26 | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | TOKYO WEEKENDER
the case, but often it’s not. The composition needs to be
there to convey the story ... [allowing for] the feelings and
the emotions to come through,” he said. His craft’s growth
extends from asking himself, “How can I get a composition
that works to tell a story, rather than it just being a great
amazing impressive composition?”
Two years ago, at Gaba, one of Japan’s biggest language
teaching companies, Lukasz was still an English instructor.
For almost seven years, he had been working his way up to
management. He had finally come full circle, acquiring that
“real job” that he set out to avoid a decade earlier. He got
health care, a pension, salary, and he was working full time
as a manager. With job security he was safe. Then he quit.
Together with his friend Axel Deroubaix, who is based
in Osaka, Lukasz co-founded Eyexplore. “Think of it as a
personal trainer at a gym teaching you how to work out.
We’re like personal trainers for photography,” he says. He
takes his clients on what his company calls “photo adventures.”
It’s a class combined with a tour. Out in the field,
Lukasz critiques his students’ images and teaches them
different photographic concepts. “It isn’t formal, but we do
teach by going out and doing.” These days Lukasz actually
works seven days a week, but “I love teaching,” he says. “I
just don’t like teaching English.”
TOKYO WEEKENDER | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | 27
visually to say. Having photographed this city for almost
10 years, he’s gotten to know Tokyo in a way that few
foreigners do.
With thousands of admirers following his Tumblr
page, people often “heart” his images, but in a blog post
entitled, “Becoming A Hermit In The Woods,” he writes
about not wanting to fall victim to “the seduction of the
‘Like’.” “The path to creativity is fraught with fear, uncertainty,
and self-doubt as it is,” he writes. “Why add to
that by subjecting one’s work to the fickle attitudes of the
social masses?”
Freelancing for various travel media platforms, he
only takes gigs that challenge his craft. He hasn’t shown
at a gallery. Although he’s never even printed out his pictures,
he wants to publish a book – that is if he can get out
of his own way. “I’ve never finished a project. It’s hard.
That’s where I’m at. How do I actually finish a project ...
and say, ‘Ok, this is done.’”
When asked about smartphones turning everyone
into a photographer, he says, “I think that no matter how
good you get at photography, if you go out with someone
else who knows what they’re doing ... who has a different
perspective on things, you’re going to learn something.”
For beginners, and even professional photographers,
“when you’re in a foreign town ... it is nice to have someone
who knows the area extremely well and can take
you to interesting spots and show you compositions that
you might not have thought of if you were just passing
through a place ... The thing that I think Eyexplore
brings to the table is that we know how to convey [photo]
concepts cleanly and effectively so that people can learn.
We’re trying to be like [former Chicago Bulls coach] Phil
Jackson, not Michael Jordan.”
Photography pioneers Alex Webb, Saul Leiter, and
William Eggelston were famous for communicating
through images. Lukasz, like his idols, has something
28 | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | TOKYO WEEKENDER
33 WAYS TO EXPERIENCE THE BEST OF JAPAN
Whether you’re looking to explore a remote part of the country, or you want to learn a
traditional art like woodblock printing, we’ve got plenty of ideas for your must-do list.
Contributors
Lisa Wallin, Alec Jordan, Annemarie Luck, Naomi Schanen
TOKYO TOKYO WEEKENDER WEEKENDER | DEC | 2017 DEC - 2017 JAN - 2018 JAN 2018 | 29 | 29
experiences ACTIVITIES
Launched in 2015, Omotenashi Selection is a collection
of quality Japan-made products conveying the country’s
craftsmanship and hospitality (summed up by the word
“omotenashi”). This year the project launched its Experiences
category, giving visitors to Japan the chance to discover
the best the country has to offer in terms of restaurants,
accommodation and activities. To kick off this issue’s special
“Experience Japan” section, we bring you 24 venues and
activities handpicked by the Omotenashi Selection team.
For more information about the project, visit omotenashinippon.jp/selection/en
CREATE GOLD LEAF CRAFTS
WHERE: KANAZAWA, ISHIKAWA
PREFECTURE
Kanazawa is famous for producing nearly all
of Japan’s gold leaf, and has been doing so
since back in the mid-1500s. Gold Leaf Sakuda
was founded in 1919, and has built a reputation
for creating high quality gold leaf products
using traditional methods, even receiving
a nod from the Michelin Blue Guide. At
Sakuda’s trial workshops, you can experience
making your own gold leaf designs. Choose
from a selection of patterns or create your
own from scratch. There are different items
to choose from such as chopsticks, mini boxes,
wooden pendants, and mini cherry boxes.
The workshop lasts about one hour and the
cost ranges from ¥600 to ¥3,400 depending on
the item you choose. goldleaf-sakuda.jp/en
SHOW OFF YOUR METALWORKING SKILLS AT A
KNIFE-MAKING WORKSHOP
WHERE: SANJO, NIIGATA PREFECTURE
It’s rare to find a facility where you can experience knife-making using traditional manufacturing
methods. At Sanjo Blacksmith Training Hall’s workshops, however, you can try out Japanese
nail-making, letter opener-making, and knife sharpening with traditional Sanjo techniques.
Using a coke forge, steel chopsticks and hammers, you’ll get to experience real metalworking
alongside skilled craftsmen. You’ll also leave with a new appreciation of the skill that goes into
traditional Japanese monozukuri (manufacturing). kajidojo.com
30 | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | TOKYO WEEKENDER
experiences ACTIVITIES
TREAT YOUR IMPORTANT
GUESTS TO OMOTENASHI
TRAIN TO BECOME A SAMURAI WARRIOR
WHERE: TOKYO
Yumonoya’s Japan Culture Experience Tours in Asakusa
offer a variety of activities, including kimono rental and
samurai training. The latter is based on the Takafuji dance
company and Kenbu Tachibana itto-ryu style, and teaches
you not only swordsmanship but also the manners and
mindset of a true samurai warrior. You’ll even get a samurai
training certificate to prove you’ve made the grade. As
for the kimono rental service, visitors can choose from a
selection of beautiful kimono sets made from traditional
Japanese fabrics. tokyo-samurai.com
WHERE: TOKYO
Take the pressure off special occasions with Four Heart’s Care
Escort service. Whether it’s at a wedding or while traveling,
Care Escort will look after important guests and ensure that
they receive the best treatment. Staff conduct meetings with
family members in advance to create a strong relationship
with their customers and understand what they are looking
for. Staff are trained to serve in different roles – such as care
workers or bridal planners – so as to match customers’ needs.
To provide the best service for their clients, Care Escort regularly
provides training in customer care and social etiquette.
care-escort.com
RENT A RICKSHAW FOR A
SPECIAL OCCASION
WHERE: TOKYO AND
BEYOND
Asakusa in Tokyo is known for
being a hotspot for rickshaw
rides, but with Kurumaya you
can also request specific destinations
around Tokyo (and all over
Japan) for special occasions. For
example, perhaps you’d like to
treat your other half to a nostalgic
trip around a memory-filled
area on your anniversary. All
staff at Kurumaya work as both
rickshaw drivers and craftsmen,
and the rickshaws can easily be
assembled and disassembled, so
drivers can meet you anywhere
you want. asakusa4028.com/
anywhere
FIND YOUR ZEN AT A
TRADITIONAL TEA CEREMONY
WHERE: TOKYO
Step into a tranquil Japanese tea haven
at Chazen & Co. in Ginza. Offering a tea
ceremony experience right in the heart of
Tokyo, the authentic space was created by
an expert tearoom designer and features
a nijiriguchi (small door), tatami floor,
and other traditional details. Experience
the art of the Japanese tea ceremony
and feel true omotenashi spirit at this
foreigner-friendly program. Reservations
required. Top tip: Ask for the Omotenashi
Selection Plan, and you’ll receive letter
packs that allow you to enjoy the tea ceremony
experience at home. chazen-us.com
TRY YOUR HAND AT CREATING
PLASTIC FOOD ART
WHERE: OSAKA
Fascinated by Japan’s food samples whenever you pass by a
restaurant? Here’s your chance to experience the art of food
sample-making for yourself. From parfaits and tarts to sushi
and bento boxes, Design Pocket offers visitors a variety of
fake food lessons. If you’re feeling up to the challenge, take on
the technical process of making macaroons, which involves
coloring the resin and heating the whole thing in an oven
to finish it off. Of course there are plenty of food samples
available for purchase too. The workshop takes about 40 to
60 minutes and lessons start at ¥2,160; service is provided in
English, Chinese and Korean. www.designpocket.net (Japanese),
tinyurl.com/TWdesignpocket (English)
TOKYO WEEKENDER | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | 31
experiences FOOD
EAT SOPHISTICATED BUDDHIST
CUISINE AT AN INNER-CITY RETREAT
WHERE: TOKYO
Shojin cuisine is a vegetarian meal that originated in Japanese
Buddhist temples. At DAIGO, not far from Toranomon Hills,
you’ll get to try an elaborate, kaiseki (traditional multicourse
meal) version of the food while being immersed in an elegant
atmosphere of Japanese gardens, traditional furnishings
including hori-kotatsu (low tables over a sunken floor) and
tatami, and teahouse-style architecture. The menu changes 20
times a year, allowing you to encounter a variety of different
dishes and enjoy seasonal delicacies. atago-daigo.jp
PREPARE AND EAT SEASONAL DISHES WITH A
TOP JAPANESE CHEF
WHERE: TOKYO
Hifumian is a Japanese cooking and culture school in Kagurazaka that offers lessons for
foreign attendees in local home-style cooking. The menu is centered around traditional
festivals, and is planned by matching seasonal ingredients with these special occasions.
Those taking part in the class can help with the cooking preparations, and then watch Chef
Takamitsu Aihara cook the meals while he explains the history, meaning and traditions
behind Japanese festivals. Being a key figure in the world of Japanese culinary arts, Aihara
makes sure that the class has a friendly atmosphere and places an emphasis on the joy of
cooking. Omotenashi is expressed in the form of the beautiful arrangement of the food, the
use of Japanese dishware, and seasonal decorations. en-salon.hifumi-an.com
DESIGN YOUR OWN SUSHI ROLL AT
A DESIGNER RESTAURANT
WHERE: KYOTO
Try out a variety of beautifully arranged Kyoto delicacies
at AWOMB, a restaurant with a wabi-sabi vibe
that’s housed in a remodeled 80-year-old kyo-machiya
(traditional wooden townhouse). Colorful ingredients
including kyoyasai (Kyoto’s traditional vegetables with
unique shapes and hues), yuba (tofu skin), and seafood
decorate the plates, while the dishes are garnished
with seasonings such as kuroshichimi (blended black
spices) and sansho (Japanese pepper). You can even
mix all your favorite ingredients in a temaki hand-roll
sushi or teori-sushi, and make the meal your own.
The presentation of the ingredients reflects the grid
patterns of the streets of Kyoto. awomb.com
DINE AMIDST A BAMBOO FOREST IN THE CENTER OF TOKYO
WHERE: TOKYO
French chef Stephen Pantel’s concept for The Classica Omotesando’s cuisine is the harmony
between Japan and the West, light and shadow, and luxury and intimacy. Born
from Pantel’s imagination, the course menu changes four times a year in accordance
with the seasons, and guests can watch as food is prepared by talented chefs in the
open kitchen. A mini bamboo forest surrounds the venue, making the elegant space
feel like a nature-filled escape. Need to plan a wedding or special event? The venue
also offers a pretty onsite chapel and banquet hall for the perfect urban celebration.
classicaomotesando.jp
32 | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | TOKYO WEEKENDER
experiences TRAVEL
TRAVEL LIKE A VIP ON A
TAILORMADE TOUR
WHERE: TOKYO AND BEYOND
The new, exclusive Royal Road Premium coach is
the king of transportation. Travel in style in the
chic, luxurious bus, with an itinerary created by
tour company JTB, for a one-of-a-kind way to see
Japan. The 10 individual leather seats can recline
up to 140 degrees so you are ensured a relaxing
and comfortable journey. Lots of personal space,
a clean restroom, and a wide selection of drinks.
What more could you want from a road trip?
tinyurl.com/TWroyalroad
EXPLORE THE SANIN AND SANYO
REGIONS ON A LUXURY SLEEPER TRAIN
WHERE: WESTERN JAPAN COASTLINE
Launched in 2017, JR West’s luxury sleeper excursion train,
TWILIGHT EXPRESS MIZUKAZE , is a 10-car train that runs along
the gorgeous coastline of western Japan. It carries up to around 30
passengers, and offers three kinds of rooms (“The Suite” which spans
one full car, the “Royal Twin” which offers views from both sides of
the car, and the “Royal Single” for solo travelers), an exquisite lounge,
a spacious dining area, and observation rooms that all contribute to
an unforgettable journey. Choose from five courses – the Sanin tours
show you the beautiful surroundings of the Sea of Japan coastline,
while the Sanyo tours run along the Seto Island Sea – and visit
sightseeing spots along the route. The crew members, most of whom
trained at the Imperial Hotel in Tokyo, offer top-class hospitality and
professionalism, making your journey through the breathtaking views
of southern Honshu a memorable one. twilightexpress-mizukaze.jp/en
experiences STAY
GET AWAY TO THE PICTURE-PERFECT
SCENERY OF IWATE
WHERE: OSHUKU, IWATE PREFECTURE
Surround yourself with Iwate’s breathtaking beauty at
Choueikan ryokan. Whether it’s from the first-rate guest
rooms or from the comfort of the natural hot spring bath,
the inn highlights scenes of Tohoku’s gorgeous seasonal
beauty. Soak amongst trees in the baths and spoil yourself
with the menu, which changes 17 times a year, according
to Japan’s 24 micro seasons. tinyurl.com/TWchoueikan
DIP INTO JAPAN’S FAMED RIVERSIDE
HOT SPRING AT A MOUNTAIN INN
WHERE: TOYOSAKA, OKAYAMA PREFECTURE
Ryokan Hakkei is like a home away from home, except with top quality cuisine
(suitable for vegans), hidden hot springs, and the famous suna-ya outdoor onsen on
your doorstep. The mixed bathing area is near Yubara Dam, and is called suna-ya
(sand bath) because as the hot water gushes out it pushes sand onto the riverbed.
It’s open 24 hours a day and is free of charge, and Hakkei provides special bathing
wear for women so there’s no need to feel shy. If you’re up for a bit of sightseeing,
you can reach Izumo Taisha Shrine, Adachi Museum of Art, the Tottori Sand Dunes,
Himeji Castle, and Naoshima within two hours by car. hakkei-yubara.jp
TOKYO WEEKENDER | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | 33
experiences STAY
SOAK IN A RARE HOT SPRING; EAT
UNIQUE BEEF CUISINE
REFRESH YOUR CITY SOUL IN NAGANO’S HIGHLANDS
WHERE: OKUTSU, OKAYAMA PREFECTURE
Okutsuso ryokan boasts a rare kind of hot spring known
as the kagi-yu (locked bath) of Tadamasa Mori, the lord of
Tsuyama domain in the Edo period, who guarded the bath
to ensure he had exclusive use of it. Why is it so special? The
water wells up directly from the rocks at the bottom of the
bath and so is not exposed to air – this means it does not get
oxidized and thus is considered uber pure. Out of 35,000 hot
spring hotels in Japan, this kind of “natural” onsen is only
found in a few dozen. As for the beef cuisine, Okayama has
developed its own signature style. Enjoy a nine-course meal,
featuring a variety of beef dishes including sozuri nabe (hot
pot made with slices of beef pared from the bone) as well as
the seasonal blowfish specialty. okutsuso.com/en
WHERE: TATESHINA, NAGANO PREFECTURE
Escape the city with a trip to Nagano’s highlands at Tateshina Kaorukaze.
Spend the day rejuvenating yourself with activities such as golfing or trekking.
In the summer, cool off in the purifying, refreshing breeze of the hills,
and in winter, warm yourself up in the fireplace lounge as you listen to the
fire crackle. The restaurant’s creative cuisine features the freshest mountain
vegetables and the best seasonal local ingredients, such as wild plants
and premium beef. Finish off the day with a relaxing dip in the indoor
and open-air baths, fed directly from the Mimuro hot springs of Tateshina.
kaorukaze.net
FEEL LIKE JAPANESE
ROYALTY AT THIS
HISTORIC RYOKAN
WHERE: SHIZUOKA
For a truly traditional and luxurious
Japanese experience, stay at Ochiairo
Murakami ryokan, a registered
Tangible Cultural Property. The
Showa style ryokan takes you back
in time, allowing you to appreciate
historic Japanese architecture and
the artisans’ attention to detail such
as in the intricate patterns of the
shoji sliding doors. With both
Japanese- and Western-style
rooms, hot spring baths and superb
Japanese meals, this ryokan has
all the ingredients to make this an
omotenashi-filled experience.
ochiairomurakami.com/en-gb
SPA YOUR STRESS AWAY
WHERE: NAHA, OKINAWA
One of the best experiences at Loisir Spa
Tower Naha Churaspa has to be the Ryukyu
Ayurveda treatment, which incorporates
Okinawan ingredients with Indian remedies,
conditioning both the mind and the body.
Afterwards, take a dip in the Miegusuku hot
spring, sourced from geothermally heated
fossil seawater that, unlike volcanic hot
springs, contains salt which helps warm
the body. The indoor swimming pool is also
70 percent hot spring water, and your Spa
Deluxe Twin room has a private bath for perfect
moments spent peering out at the views
of the Okinawan sea and sky. solarehotels.
com/en/hotel/okinawa/spatower
EXPERIENCE LIFE IN AN
EDO-PERIOD CASTLE TOWN
WHERE: SASAYAMA, HYOGO PREFECTURE
Sasayama is an old castle town that was established in Hyogo
Prefecture in the early 1600s. To allow visitors to experience
lifestyles and customs from the Edo and Showa periods, five
traditional homes have been carefully restored and grouped
together under the name Sasayama Castle Town Hotel Nipponia.
Each unit offers modern comforts but maintains its
original charm, allowing you to feel like you’re really living
in a secluded, Edo period castle town. While enjoying the
atmospheric old town, you’ll also get to enjoy state-of-the-art
facilities and exquisite French cuisine made with local ingredients.
sasayamastay.jp
34 | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | TOKYO WEEKENDER
experiences STAY
STAY AT A SEASIDE RYOKAN NEAR THE
KUMANO KODO PILGRIMAGE
REJUVENATE AT A
WELLNESS RETREAT IN
WHERE: KATSUURA, WAKAYAMA PREFECTURE
How about a quick getaway to a UNESCO site? Katsuura Gyoen
is a luxury ryokan in the fishing port town of Katsuura
(which lays claim to the highest volume of tuna fish hauls
in Japan, so you can imagine the delicious seafood dishes).
Overlooking Nachi Bay, the hotel’s “Ten” suites are spacious
and feature open-air baths. Some of the rooms even offer
views of Nachi-no-Otaki, Japan’s tallest waterfall. Best of
all, the area is home to the ancient, UNESCO-registered Kumano
Kodo pilgrimage route (www.tb-kumano.jp/en/kumano-kodo).
Stretching over the mountainous Kii Peninsula
(which is listed on Lonely Planet’s “Best in Travel 2018”
list), the route lets you take in the extraordinary landscape
and the three Grand Shrines of Kumano, and also feel the
spirituality and history that are now an integral part of the
Kumano countryside. www.katuuragyoen.co.jp
AN ONSEN TOWN
WHERE: IKAHO, GUNMA
PREFECTURE
Situated on the slopes of Mount
Haruna, Ikaho Onsen is a hot
spring town that’s long been
favored by Japanese writers and
artists as a place of inspiration and relaxation. Kaichoro ryokan builds on this
reputation by creating an elegant wellness retreat where you’ll not only experience
soul-rejuvenating moments in the exquisite Japanese-style suites (with private
gardens and open-air baths) but also relish the mouthwatering meals. The Japanese
course menus change every month, and the sommelier offers drink pairing
suggestions with both Japanese sake and Western drinks. Surrounded by extraordinary
landscapes, you can choose to spend time in nature or being pampered in
the high-class spa. kaichoro.jp/english
WAKE UP TO OCEAN AND MT. FUJI
VIEWS JUST 90 MINUTES FROM TOKYO
WHERE: HAYAMA, KANAGAWA PREFECTURE
Neighbor to the more crowded Kamakura, Hayama is a
top choice for those seeking a quieter and, shall we say,
more mature seaside escape that’s not too far from Tokyo.
SCAPES THE SUITE is located right on the beach, offering
uninterrupted ocean and Mt. Fuji views from the guestrooms.
The hotel prides itself on offering “not a journey,
but an escape,” part of which entails them instinctively
being able to predict your needs before you’ve even
expressed them (this is classic omotenashi). They also pay
attention to the basics such as picking local vegetables
with rich flavors in the Miura Peninsula each morning to
serve delicious, fresh meals. scapes.jp/english/hotel.html
ADMIRE TRADITIONAL AND MODERN DECOR AT
A FAMILY-FRIENDLY RYOKAN
WHERE: MINAKAMI, GUNMA PREFECTURE
Looking for a child-friendly ryokan for a quick weekend family trip? Just 90
minutes from Tokyo, Bettei Senjuan is the place for you: the philosophy here is
that experiencing ryokan from a young age is important, because it means that the
culture can be passed on to future generations. The hotel blends traditional and
contemporary architecture – the geometric patterns on the walls and ceiling are
made using the Japanese paper marbling technique of Edo Suminagashi. As for the
cuisine, multi-course dinners are served, featuring freshly sourced local ingredients.
senjyuan.jp/e
TOKYO WEEKENDER | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | 35
experiences STAY
ESCAPE TO
JAPAN’S MOST
SECLUDED
ONSEN
Looking for the ultimate private getaway?
Here are four of the most hidden-away
natural hot spring resorts to try
ORDER A TRADITIONAL SAKE SET,
WHICH FLOATS IN THE BATH AS YOU
ENJOY YOUR DIP
NANOYADO HOTEL IYA ONSEN
Where: Miyoshi, Tokushima
Prefecture
For a truly hidden gem, look no further
than Nanoyado Hotel Iya Onsen,
located deep in the mountains
surrounding the Iya Valley. Here,
the natural landscape retains its
original wild state with few exceptions
of human interference. Find
yourself immersed in deep forests,
surrounded only by birds singing
and the wind blowing through the
trees. The view over the valley is
unrivalled – even more so because
you can enjoy it on your way down
to (and up from) the hotel’s outdoor
bath, which you get to by cable car.
The 170-meter-long ride takes five
minutes, giving ample time to take
in the sweeping views of Iya Valley
and beyond.
Arriving at the baths (there
are two – one for men and one for
women), guests have an exclusive
view over the Iya River
from the bath area, which sits
on the ridge of the river. The
view is stunning both day and
night – we recommend going
for two dips in one day to fully
enjoy the beauty of the region.
The 20 rooms available are a
mix of Western and Japanese
style, some with open-air baths
and panoramic views of the
valley. Dining options include
kaiseki (multi-course) meals or
omiki-nabe, a local hot pot dish
with a soup base made from
miso and local sake. Guests who
would like to stop by just for
lunch and a bath are welcome,
but reservations are required
in advance.
367-28 Matsuo Matsumoto
Ikeda, Miyoshi, Tokushima Prefecture,
www.iyaonsen.co.jp/en
RANKEISOU INN
Where: Nagano Sanjo, Niigata Prefecture
Situated an hour from the nearest train station, this historic ryokan sits
at the edge of Shinano River, far away from any other houses or inns.
Feast on a lavish bounty from the nearby mountains and follow up
with a soak in one of the two open-air baths that can be reserved privately.
Guests are also welcome to order a traditional sake set, which
floats in the bath as you enjoy your dip. In the lobby, you can drink
straight from the ryokan’s pure, natural hot spring.
Echigo-Nagano Onsen, 1450 Nagano Sanjo, Niigata Prefecture,
www.rankei.com/english.htm
36 | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | TOKYO WEEKENDER
experiences STAY
HOSHI ONSEN CHOJUKAN
Where: Minakami, Gunma Prefecture
This ryokan has a 140-year history and is registered as a National Tangible Cultural Property.
Located inside Joshinetsu-Kogen National Park, it’s protected by the shade of trees in summer,
making it the perfect place to escape the summer heat. The Hoshi no Yu bathhouse, constructed
in a typical Meiji period style, has mixed bathing facilities for the brave. Choyu no Onsen is for
women only and sits adjacent to a nearby stream, offering a beautiful vista of the flowing water
and forest surrounding it. Dropping in for lunch and a bath is permitted, but make sure
to reserve in advance.
650 Nagai, Minakami, Tone, Gunma Prefecture, hoshi-onsen.com/english
TAKARAGAWA ONSEN OSENKAKU
Where: Minakami, Gunma Prefecture
Historians have found evidence that this hot
spring area was used by people in the Jomon
period (14,000-300 BCE) of ancient Japan, but
the ryokan itself dates back to the Taisho era
(1912-1926). Ideal for couples who want to
spend some quality time together, this rare
resort doesn’t just have one mixed-bathing
open-air bath – it has three! Mixed bathing
areas require guests to be nude, but women
are provided with a special towel to wrap
themselves in before they take a dip. All baths
look out onto the river, offering breathtaking
views in every season. Staff at the hotel are
warm and most speak at least two languages.
1899 Fujiwara, Minakami, Tone, Gunma Prefecture,
www.takaragawa.com/english.html
TOKYO WEEKENDER | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | 37
experiences STAY
in Japan, measuring two kilometers long and
containing some 200,000 tombstones. Many
tours leave from Eko-in and can be arranged
through your lodgings.
SLEEP LIKE
A MONK
Staying overnight at a temple
is an ideal way to experience
Japanese Buddhism. Here’s
what you should know about
shukubo and a few places
where you can do it
Although Japan is known for its luxury
hotels and sumptuous ryokan,
there’s another, more humble
way to experience the country’s
hospitality, while also deepening
your appreciation of its rich and fascinating
culture. The practice known as shukubo, or
temple lodging, goes back hundreds of years,
and was originally intended for monks visiting
from other temples and religious pilgrims,
but now hundreds of temples and shrines
around Japan offer lodging to tourists and
travelers, both foreign and domestic. A few
things to keep in mind: you shouldn’t go into a
shukubo experience expecting to be pampered.
You’ll be comfortable, but not basking
in luxury. Many temple lodging rooms don’t
have private bathrooms, so shared facilities
are to be expected. At some locations, there
are larger, more well-appointed rooms with
private baths; you’ll need to enquire about
these. Depending on the location, WiFi may
not always be offered, but then again, you
probably came to a temple to get a bit of
peace, so unplugging for a while isn’t the
worst thing in the world!
On the plus side, most shukubo options
offer the chance to eat (usually) vegetarian
meals known as shojin ryori – temple food
that is hearty and healthy, and whose ingredients
are carefully chosen for balance in flavor
and even in color. Guests also have the chance
to take part in evening or morning meditations
or ceremonies.
KOYASAN, WAKAYAMA PREFECTURE
Perhaps the most popular place to experience
temple lodging in Japan is at Koyasan,
in Wakayama Prefecture. Part of a UNESCO
World Heritage site that includes two other
areas in the Kii Mountain Range, Koyasan is
the home of the Koyasan school, the oldest
and largest sect of Shingon Buddhism. Given
its importance, the area itself has grown to
include more than 100 subtemples. More than
50 temples in the Koyasan area offer lodging,
and many of them can be found on the Koyasan
Shukubo Association’s English website
(eng.shukubo.net/temple-lodging.html)
One of the most highly recommended
locations in Koyasan is Eko-in. A stay at the
temple includes instruction in meditation, a
vegetarian meal, and an opportunity to take
part in morning services, which includes
chanting and a fire ceremony (starting
at ¥11,500, www.ekoin.jp). Other popular
locations include Fudo-in (¥14,580, www.
fudouin.or.jp) and Shojoshin-in (¥10,800,
shojoshinin.jp). Regardless of where you stay,
you should definitely plan on an evening tour
of the cemetery at Okunoin: it’s the largest
KYOTO
Kyoto, with its abundance of temples, is another
location with a wide range of shukubo
options. One of them is the Shunkoin Temple
Guest House, which is a part of a larger Zen
temple known as Miyushinji that offers morning
meditation classes (starting at ¥4,500, 075-
462-5488). The Omuro Kaikan Hall at Kyoto’s
Ninnaji offers a bit of a hybrid experience,
with non-vegetarian meals and beer available
for meals, as well as a chance to witness
the morning ceremony and tour the temple’s
beautiful grounds (starting at ¥11,000,
includes two meals, www.ninnaji.or.jp/
syukubou/stay.html). Rokuo-in is a very small
temple in the Arashiyama area, with lodgings
for women only (¥4,500, including breakfast,
075-861-1645), and Myoshin-ji Daishin-in is
very popular with foreign travelers (¥4,700,
including breakfast, 075-461-5714).
KANAZAWA, ISHIKAWA PREFECTURE
One hidden gem that could be part of a trip to
Kanazawa is the Shingon temple of Natadera, in
Ishikawa Prefecture. This temple features expansive
grounds, and the temple lodging is located on
a small mountain with views out over the Japan
Sea and nearby Mount Hakusan (¥13,000-¥15,000
per person, includes two meals, 0761-65-2111).
EIHEIJI, FUKUI PREFECTURE
Finally, if you’re really interested in experiencing
the monastic lifestyle for a little while, we recommend
Eiheiji in Fukui Prefecture. This temple
complex was founded by Dogen, a pioneering figure
in Zen Buddhism who started the Soto school
in the 13th century. For this location, you’ll need
to make a reservation in writing, a month ahead
of time. It’s certainly not a place for a casual stay,
but for people with a real interest in Buddhism,
it’s an opportunity that’s well worth trying
(bit.ly/TWEiheiji, 0776-63-3640).
38 | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | TOKYO WEEKENDER
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experiences STAY
[ PROMOTION ]
GIVE YOUR DOG A
BREAK IN BEAUTIFUL
KARUIZAWA
Hate leaving your pooch at
home when you go away for
weekends? Regina-Resort
Kyukaruizawa offers a
solution with its brand-new
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prepped for pups
Few hotels in Japan manage to capture
the zeitgeist here like Regina-Resort
Kyukaruizawa, which opened in
November in the enduringly popular
tourist area of Karuizawa, Nagano
Prefecture. The resort is striking – it owes
much to the works of the modern Japanese
architectural movement, which shuns brutalism
and utilitarian practicality in favor of
connecting construction, nature, and traditional
Japanese aesthetics. And it is all designed
with dogs in mind.
“We want guests to be able to relax and
enjoy the history and nature that Karuizawa
has to offer with their dogs,” resort manager
Shinya Sasuga tells Weekender.
Designed with the help of Azusa Sekkei –
a construction company working on the Tokyo
2020 National Olympic Stadium – the hotel’s
building is primarily constructed of grey
concrete, but it is difficult to tell. Every wall
is decorated with Japanese cedar, including
paneling and lattices, giving the interior the
feel of a Zen temple.
But dogs take center stage. Yapping is
always in earshot; wall decorations serve as
hooks for leashes; the floors are all easy to
clean (just in case that reception area seems
the perfect spot for your pooch to leave his
calling card); and all rooms include a crate,
complete with a mattress, for sleeping. First
floor rooms have gardens that use woodchip,
which can easily be replaced. Second-floor
guests only have terraces but can use the freefor-all
woodchip dog run, which straddles the
front of the hotel and includes sun loungers for
the warmer months.
The meals are of a quality comparable to
an upper-end Tokyo restaurant. Our evening
washoku menu included exquisite wagyu, barbecued
at the table, sashimi that melted in the
mouth, and a wide variety of hors d’oeuvres
and vegetables. Wine from an extensive list
chosen by hotel sommelier Atsushi Yuasa is
available. The traditional Japanese breakfast
was just as good – hearty and nutritious without
being overfacing.
Dogs are also welcome in the dining room.
Each table has a trolley for pets to sit in (no
climbing on the high-quality furniture allowed
– though many defied the rules). There is also
an extensive menu of food for pets. Ours had
the horse meat cubes in the evening and salmon
with vegetables for breakfast. As dog owners
will know, sometimes hotels that allow pets
do so on the assumption guests will be staying
one night only. If guests stay longer it can be a
challenge for the kitchen as ingredients for a
second dinner can be difficult to source, and so
the second-day meals are often disappointing.
“If people stay for a second or third day,
we will change up our menus, so there’s no
need to worry about that,” said Sasuga. “And
if guests want to head down the road, we have
an agreement with a nearby restaurant where
they can also go for a meal.”
There is plenty else to do in the area.
Kumoba Pond, set in lush surroundings with
Mount Asama looming in the distance, is a
short walk away, or head to Kyu Karuizawa Ginza,
a shopping street with local stores that caters
to tourists. Further afield, the old town around
Karuizawa Station’s North Exit has plenty of
history, including churches and the hotel that
John Lennon liked to stay in. The South side’s
malls are perfect for those wishing to buy brand
goods – and out of the way for those wanting to
avoid commercialization. The nightlife is also
good, with plenty of restaurants and bars.
We, however, decided to spend the evening
at the hotel and make the most of the rare
chance to take in a piece of contemporary
architecture without crowds. The wine and
jazz made the experience more rewarding, and
having our dog doze beside us as we talked into
the night made it all the more special.
For more info about Regina-Resort Kyukaruizawa
visit www.regina-resorts.com/kyukaruizawa
40 | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | TOKYO WEEKENDER
Brand New Suites (27F)
Oakwood Residence Roppongi T-Cube
Opening Soon!
Four-bedroom Grand Suite (209 sqm)
Two-bedroom Prestige and Sky Suites (127-170sqm)
Discover Oakwood living in Tokyo Midtown, Roppongi,
Tokyo Station, Aoyama, Ariake, Akasaka, Shirokane,
Azabujyuban, Minami Azabu, and Azabudai.
Opening in Shinagawa, Nishi Shinjuku, and
Shin Osaka in spring and summer of 2018!
*short term stays available at Tokyo Station, Ariake, and Shin Osaka.
TOKYO WEEKENDER | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | 41
experiences FOOD & DRINK
TOUR TOKYO’S
SAKE BREWERIES
FOR FREE
Check out a traditional shuzo
and enjoy free tastings to find
your new favorite sake
It’s an open secret that Tokyo has sake
breweries – nine of them, in fact. Tucked
away on the outer edges of the city where
the water is clearer and the air is fresher,
breweries that have been around since
the Edo period still ply their craft. Here are
our top three breweries with free tours and
tastings in Tokyo...
OZAWA
Founded in 1702, Ozawa Shuzo in Ome is the
oldest brewery in Tokyo. Surrounded by lush
green mountains and with the Tama River
flowing past, it’s in a picturesque location
that’s perfect for a whole day out. The brewery
complex consists of a sake shop, two tofu restaurants,
and a barbecue area. Nearby there
are two museums – one about Gyokudo Kawai,
a master of Nihonga (Japanese-style painting),
and one featuring kanzashi (traditional
Japanese hair accessories). Nature trails in the
area will take you past shrines and temples
to Mitake Gorge. For hardcore hikers, one of
Tokyo’s tallest mountains, Mount Mitake, is
just a stone’s throw away.
Sake brand: Sawanoi
Tour details: Free tours are available in
Japanese, with English information provided.
The tour ends with a sake tasting session.
Reservations are required.
More info: www.sawanoi-sake.com/en
ISHIKAWA
This Brewery first opened in
1863, but moved to its current
location in Fussa in 1881. The
brewery area features beautiful
traditional architecture that
remains in excellent condition,
including the hongura (production
building), where Tamajiman,
the main sake brand, is
still produced. If sake leaves
you thirsting for more, Ishikawa
also brews its own beer, Tama no Megumi.
To try some, stop by Fussa no Birugiya, an
Italian restaurant located in the brewery complex
and featuring local fare and beer. You’ll
also find a soba restaurant here, as well as a
museum detailing the history of sake-making
from the Edo period onwards.
Sake brand: Tamajiman
Tour details: Free tours are available in English
and French on weekdays. Reservations
are required in advance. Free sake tasting
experience included.
More info: www.tamajiman.com/english
TAMURA
The Tamura family used to be village heads
of Fussa city, and established Tamura
Brewery in 1822. The business is still owned
and managed by the family, with its 16th
generation CEO currently at the helm. Some
buildings in the brewery complex are Cultural
Properties, including the well that was dug
out almost 200 years ago – the water inside
is still used for sake production. Their sake
brand Kasen means “spring of joy,” referring
to this vital source. Also in the complex, a
pair of almost 800-year-old zelkova trees
– auspicious symbols of harmony – offer
shade and protection to the property. Tamura
Shuzojo has always been small, and it
intentionally limits its production. Most of its
customers are based in Tokyo.
Sake brand: Kasen
Tour details: Free tours and tastings are
available from Tuesday to Saturday, but only
in Japanese. Reservations of 10 people or
more are required. Bring an interpreter if
possible to make the most out of the experience.
Free tasting experience included.
More info: www.seishu-kasen.com
For an extended list of sake breweries in Tokyo,
visit www.tokyoweekender.com
42 | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | TOKYO WEEKENDER
experiences CRAFT
“DIVE” FOR
PEARLS WITHOUT
LEAVING THE CITY
Leave the real pearl hunting to the ama divers, and head
to this Tokyo shop to experience extracting your very own
gem from a selection of oysters
Just over 100 years ago, Koichi Mikimoto,
nicknamed the Pearl King, took
a huge step into perfecting the art of
pearl farming, creating an industry
that could produce near-perfect cylindrical
pearls to adorn the necks and ears
of celebrities worldwide. His legacy created
an opening for Japan to become the worldwide
leader in cultured Akoya pearl production,
a position it has enjoyed ever since.
Thanks to Mikimoto’s ingenuity and perseverance,
beautiful Akoya pearls are now
more obtainable than they have ever been.
However, usually we are dependent on pearl
farmers doing the dirty
work to provide us with
these exquisite and lustrous
seeds. Now, we can find
them ourselves in the heart
of Tokyo.
This is the knowledge
we were armed with when
we headed to Pico-Labo in
Taito-ku, where visitors can
extract pearls from oysters
themselves. We knew what
we were going to do, but
nothing had prepared us for
the nervous titillation we
experienced while trying to
choose the “right” one. We
hesitantly made our choices
and were ready to begin.
Each oyster, and thus each pearl, is
unique. It’s one of the beautiful things about
a product created by nature – pearls come in
many different colors, sizes and shapes. Like
a Kinder egg – or a box of chocolates – you
never know what you’re going to get. Perfectly
round ones are almost impossible to find –
only about 5% of pearls produced will be the
almost entirely flawless, cylindrical ones that
we’re used to seeing in stores.
Even so, we were confident our pearl
– round or not – would be beautiful and
perfect, because we had chosen it ourselves.
Cautiously, we slid the tip of our knife into
the shell’s “hinge,” twisting it gently. We
pried the oyster open to reveal … a gooey
mess. Armed with a tiny silver-colored shovel
we carefully groped around in the hope
of finding a lustrous treasure. Suddenly,
resistance! Had we struck gold? With some
trepidation, we gently applied pressure
around the oyster’s insides, when something
suddenly caught the light. A pearl! Our pearl!
We scooped out our globe and wiped the
slimy residue off to reveal a pearl with a rose
pink shade. Akoya pearls come in varying
shades ranging from rose pink to blue with
silver and pink undertones, with the latter
being the most rare.
The whole experience starts at ¥1,300,
which is a bargain since you could hit the
jackpot with a giant, high-quality pearl. If
you’re not quite sure what to do with your
pearl once you have extracted it, Pico Labo
offers a selection of accessory options: put
your pearl inside a pendant, drill a hole in it
and attach it to a chain necklace, or attach it
to a brooch. You can also try extracting two
and make earrings out of them, but they will
most likely not match in color, shape or size.
If you would like to go on a pearl hunting
adventure of your own, or you simply want
to buy pearl accessories and would like an
extensive selection to choose from, Pico Labo
has you covered. The staff speaks some English,
and you can reserve an appointment via
email or by phone.
PICO LABO
Address: 5-4-1 Ueno, Taito-ku
Tel: 03-3832-0017 | Email: info@pico-labo.
com | Opening hours: 9:30am-5:30pm
Mon-Fri, closed Sat, Sun & hols | Pearl
extraction hours: 11am-4pm Mon-Fri,
reservations required
TOKYO WEEKENDER | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | 43
experiences ART
CARVE YOUR
WAY INTO
UKIYO-E
Where to learn the traditional
art of woodblock printing
Ukiyo-e is a style of woodblock print art
popularized in the Edo period (1603-
1868) and was often used as a form
of advertising, spreading information
and setting trends for common
people. However, due to the influence of the Meiji
Restoration of 1868 and following the deaths of
artists like Hokusai, ukiyo-e began its decline.
Woodblock printing continued with more modern
styles, which in turn gave rise to contemporary
artists like Hidehiko Goto, Rebecca Salter and Shoji
Miyamoto who continue to reinvent the medium.
The process of traditional ukiyo-e printing
was not simple – it required collaboration of
multiple artisans for all stages. Artisans made
and prepared the base woodblocks, while artists
designed and painted the images to be printed.
Carvers were needed to create the actual “stamp”
for printing, and finally, printers to bring the
artwork to life. These days, those interested in
continuing the legacy of woodblock are hindered
by the fact that there are few, if any, craftsmen
creating many of the materials needed.
Currently, there are only six ukiyo-e level
woodblock-carving masters left in the world (all
in Japan), and one of those is master woodblock
carver Motoharu Asaka, who has been practicing
his craft for 40 years. It is at his studio, Takumi
Hanga, where complete beginners to the art
– regardless of nationality – can get firsthand
experience in this skillful practice. Asaka-sensei
WHERE TO MAKE YOUR
OWN WOODBLOCK
PRINTS
TAKUMI HANGA FUREAI KAN
Take a one-time class or create
your own long-term course at
Master Motoharu Asaka’s studio
in Shinjuku. Regular classes in
English are provided with the assistance
of interpreter and artist
Louise Rouse. ¥6,000 per session,
takumihanga.com
MOKUHANKAN
Centrally located in Asakusa,
woodblock carver David Bull holds
“print parties” where visitors can
try out printing pieces themselves,
and see professionals carving
and printing in action. ¥2,000 per
session, mokuhankan.com
MACHIDA CITY MUSEUM
OF GRAPHIC ARTS
One of few museums in the world
dedicated to prints, MCMGA offers
occasional classes on copperplate
etching and screen-printing,
and woodblock printing. See the
museum schedule for more details:
hanga-museum.jp/english
opened up his studio to students not looking to
become masters – something that is uncommon.
“Once I turned 60, I realized there are so few
woodblock artisans. This should be shared with
everyone – not just Japanese people. Very few
successors join and even fewer become masters.
I want everyone to experience this art.”
Visitors to Takumi Hanga don’t need to have
aspirations to become the next Hokusai as Asaka-sensei
offers one-time printing sessions using
his own blocks. More adventurous students
create their own designs and learn how to print
them in a double-session class, while those who
want to dedicate themselves to the medium can
arrange a full course where they can go more
in-depth and learn the whole process.
One long-term student is Jane Fulton Suri,
who comes to the studio whenever she visits Tokyo.
She has been working on several projects
for almost two years. Even so, she says she still
has a lot to learn. “I know what I’m doing, I’m
just doing it wrong. You can be on your sixth
color [of the same print] and mess it up, and
then it’s just completely blown apart. Thankfully,
Asaka-sensei is accommodating of today’s
ambition and impatience – mine included.”
Despite the difficulties, frustration and discipline
the medium involves, Fulton Suri loves
it. “It’s quite meditative as you learn how the
materials behave. Also, the history and culture
behind it gives me a context for Japanese art. I
guess it feels like a privilege to be doing this.”
44 | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | TOKYO WEEKENDER
experiences ART
TRY
TRADITIONAL
NIHONGA
Create your very own Japanese-style painting
When asked how she defines
the difference between
Western-style painting and
Nihonga, artist and teacher
Maria Tanikawa says for
her it’s largely down to the materials used.
Although the style and techniques of Japanese
painting have evolved over the years, the
materials have remained all natural, which
means you’ll find yourself quizzing Tanikawa
on things like fish glue (nikawa) – an adhesive
that’s made by boiling fish collagen in water.
The glue is used to mix natural pigments,
which are made from minerals, clay, oyster
shells and metallic leaf (notice how pleasant
they smell in comparison to oil or acrylic
paints). Your canvas is delicate washi paper,
and you’ll be outlining your drawing using
sumi ink (the same kind used for calligraphy).
We loved the process of adding water to an
inkstone and rubbing a sumi stick against
it to create the pitch-black liquid, and then
mixing the pigments with our fingers.
While fascinating to use, these materials
take some getting used to, especially if you’re
used to working with thick oils. But Tanikawa
is excellent at breaking down each step – and
giving a gentle nudge when you feel too nervous
to spread a full base coat of paint over
your perfectly outlined seahorse. (Wait, what,
I should paint over my sumi ink drawing?
Yes, don’t worry, you’ll still be able to see the
outline after we dry the base coat.)
Tanikawa spent several years studying
and working in New York
before returning to Tokyo
to start offering Nihonga
lessons here. Her classes
are held at a bright, white
studio in Omotesando, and
she says the majority of her
students are foreign (not
many places offer Nihonga
lessons in English). As for
what you want to paint,
that’s up to you. We chose
to paint a blue seahorse in
a cloud of grey smoke with
flecks of gold for a touch
of sparkle, while others
attending the class went
for pretty landscapes and
flowers. (It’s a good idea to
bring a printout of an image you like as you’ll
need to trace it onto the washi paper.) You
can choose to sign up for five classes (¥20,000,
valid for three months), take a private lesson
(¥10,000), or book a session through Airbnb
Experiences (¥8,000).
For more info, visit www.mariatanikawa.com or
tinyurl.com/TWnihonga-airbnb
COMBINE PAINT AND
PARTY AT ARTBAR
Prefer a more modern art
experience? Try a creative
class that’s also a social event
Get your creative juices flowing at Artbar’s
fun classes where you can sip on a
glass of wine and tuck into snacks while
expressing your inner Picasso. Suitable
for both beginners and experienced
artists, Artbar’s lessons are usually
held at the weekend, with each session
having a theme such as “Cranes with
Red Fuji” or “Kandinsky Composition.”
Some are aimed at kids too, such as the
“Mommy & Me – Polar Bear” class on
December 23. All materials are provided,
and the cute studio in Daikanyama
provides the perfect atmosphere for
both creativity and mingling. The art
instructors are all talented, welcoming,
and speak either Japanese or English,
or both. Two-hour classes are around
¥5,000 (price sometimes changes for
special events). More info: artbar.co.jp.
Photos courtesy of Airbnb
TOKYO WEEKENDER | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | 45
experiences FOOD
[ PROMOTION ]
INDULGE
IN JAPAN’S
COMFORT
FOODS
Winter warmers at Tokyo’s
Tabisuru Shintora Market
this chilly season
As the nights get longer and the days get shorter, it can
be hard to chase those winter blues away. Thankfully
the four brightly lit stalls and the café at Tabisuru
Shintora Market – an ongoing event just outside
Toranomon Hills that promotes regions from across
Japan – have prepared for this season with nourishing comfort
foods that warm the body from the inside out. Find a new favorite
Japanese dish to soothe your soul when the weather, your
life, or the world in general isn’t giving you a break.
STALL 1: PORK OFFAL NABE FROM
KOMONO, MIE PREFECTURE
Give yourself an immunity booster at lunch with Komono pork offal nabe,
which is packed with protein and vitamins. The rich soup base is laden
with negi onion, carrots and ginger, which all work to help keep you warm.
The Komono pork cutlet set comes with a crispy pork cutlet, a potato croquette,
and a side of miso soup. For dinner, the pork offal nabe serves two
to three people, making it the perfect dish to share with friends. Pair with
some of Komono’s finest sake and liqueurs.
STALL 2: HEAVENLY HOT POTS FROM
HIOKI, KAGOSHIMA PREFECTURE
Hioki city is happy to cater to nabe fans, with a
selection of hot pots to delight even the fussiest
eater. There are so many different flavors they’ll
have you coming back every day! The heavenly
hot pots served are pork barley miso nabe,
chicken meatball and soymilk nabe, beef sukiyaki
(similar to nabe but cooked in a skillet), and
seafood chige (kimchi nabe). Night-time offerings
include izakaya-style fare such as pork offal fry,
tofu with a sprinkling of meat and negi onion.
For true local fare, try gane, a tempura-style dish
made of julienned root vegetables. Match your
food with with one of Kagoshima’s famed shochu,
or some amazake (a sweet alcohol made from
fermented rice).
experiences FOOD
STALL 3: SHABU SHABU FROM
SUZUKA, MIE PREFECTURE
VISIT SHINTORA CAFÉ FOR
A FUSION OF JAPANESE,
SPANISH AND ITALIAN
FLAVORS
Tapas fans will love the variety of
dishes available at the café, which
are a delectable fusion of flavors.
Here you’ll find palate pleasers like
konnyaku (a jelly made from a type
of potato) and beef shank in bamboo
charcoal ajillo, creamy Manchurian
rice stems and Komokin pork gratin
with spicy yuzu taste, seaweed and
parmigiano cheese fried galette, and
more. Save some room for dessert
though, as the zunda (paste made
from edamame beans) ice cream
and strawberry matcha crepes are
sure to blow your mind. Drop by
for lunch and ask for the lunchtime
mini tapas – only ¥200 per dish!
TABISURU SHINTORA
MARKET’S WINTER EDITION
KICKS OFF IN THE NEW YEAR
Starting in January, Tabisuru Shintora
Market will take on a new look
with new cities, under the theme of
The Dawn of Spring and Enlightenment.
2018 will be the 150th anniversary
of the Meiji Restoration, a
time of new beginnings and change.
This edition of Tabisuru Shintora
Market will be a celebration of
people, lifestyle, crafts and arts,
with history as a focal point.
As Mie Prefecture is the third top producer of green tea in Japan, it’s only
right that Suzuka’s specialty shabu shabu is made using Tsubaki Saen green
tea. The dish serves two to three people and features locally raised sakura
pork and crispy green lettuce. For light nibbles to go with your drink, try
the penne pasta arrabiata, or squid tempura – both dyed black using Suzuka
ink! Pair with Zaku, an award-winning sake that won a gold medal in this
year’s national sake competition.
STALL 4: TAI OCHAZUKE AND
MORE FROM NIIGATA VILLAGES
For something filling but not too heavy,
the lunchtime onigiri set comes with fried
chicken, potato salad, and miso soup. To
go with after dinner drinks of local wine,
shochu or yogurt liqueur, try the warming
tai ochazuke (green tea poured over sea
bream and rice), or the nourishing seafood
gratin. Follow up with an ice cream sundae
infused with amazake (traditional sweet
alcohol made from fermented rice), or a set
of dango (sweet rice dumplings) that comes
with edamame ice cream and hot green tea.
TABISURU SHINTORA MARKET
Address: 2-16 Nishi-Shinbashi, Minato-ku
Web: www.tabisuru-market.jp
TOKYO WEEKENDER | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | 47
Looking for your next job in Japan?
Weekender has teamed up with
Sunny Side Up Career and
Coto Work to bring you
the latest professional
opportunities
SERVER/WEB ENGINEER
A successful Japanese tech company with global reach is looking
to hire new staff. Join a fun and casual office environment with
supportive staff, and make a global impact! Especially looking for
creative team players capable of introducing innovative new ideas
and approaches to programming. Flexitime, casual atmosphere,
competitive salary.
Requirements:
- More than 5 years’ working experience in a related field
- Server side apps development experience
- Web apps development
- Understanding of Linux preferred
- Knowledge of Java or PHP preferred
- Must be willing to work for the company long-term
- Languages: business level English and N3 level or above Japanese
(preferable but not required)
Location: Central Tokyo
Salary: Competitive (based on experience)
GAME ENGINEER (SERVER SIDE)
As a Game Engineer, you will be involved in the development and
operations of a smartphone game application for both iOS and
Android. Responsibilities include program design and development
for front-end and server side; design and development of games
using real-time communication; project realization; manpower and
resource estimation and determination; proposing of improvement
plan; team consulting; operational performance improvement.
Requirements:
- Must have a strong passion for games
- Experience in developing and operating web services
- Experience in Java/PHP/ Perl
- Experience in DB/ MySQL/ Oracle/ PostgreSQL
- Experience in game development is not necessary
Location: Central Tokyo
Salary: Competitive (based on experience)
GLOBAL TEAM PR PRODUCER
SUNNY SIDE UP Inc. is looking for launch members of its new
Global Team which has been established due to the increase of
requests for general communication strategies by foreign-affiliated
companies and foreign government agencies.
Requirements:
- Plan and operate PR strategies
- Produce PR events
- PR consulting with clients
- Produce PR-related events such as press conferences and media
relations
- Progress management of project budgets, and team management
- Minimum five years of experience in marketing communications
- Languages: business-level Japanese and English
Location: Triumph Tokyo office
Salary: Competitive (based on experience)
BRAND COMMUNICATION ASSISTANT
Sloggi Japan is looking for a brand communication expert to lead and
develop regional marketing programs. The role includes managing
the advertising and promotion budget, assisting with studying and
analyzing consumer trends, and activities such as digital marketing,
brand communication, retail marketing, brand merchandising, and
store design.
Requirements:
- 3+ years’ work experience
- 3+ years’ brand or communication experience in apparel, retail, or
related industries is preferred
- Experience with products targeting age group 20s to 30s is
preferable
- Analysis and proposal creation experience
- University degree
- Language: Japanese and basic English
Location: Tokyo
Salary: Competitive (based on experience)
To apply for these jobs and view more opportunities, visit
www.tokyoweekender.com/careers
Satomi Kondo, Sometimes people don’t act logically, ©Satomi Kondo ©Fujiko-Pro
TAKE A NEW LOOK AT A CLASSIC
Featured in our art roundup: more than two dozen contemporary Japanese
artists put their own spin on the beloved futuristic cartoon cat Doraemon.
TOKYO WEEKENDER | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | 49
‘New York-1’ (1978) | © KEIICHI TAHARA
ART & BOOKS
KEIICHI TAHARA: PHOTOSYNTHESIS WITH MIN TANAKA
Keiichi Tahara traveled to France when he was 20. Struck by the unique intensity of the light there, Tahara was inspired to remain
in the country, where his career as a photographer would flourish. He met the avant-garde dancer Min Tanaka in Paris, and the two
collaborated on a project that was inspired by the idea of photographing Tanaka in environments rural and modern, throughout the
seasons, and in several different countries, but always drawing attention to the unique qualities of each location’s light. The photographs
went unseen for decades, but in 2016, Tanaka and Tahara (who passed away earlier this year), decided to revisit the project and
started shooting photos in the series again. Hara Museum of Contemporary Art Until December 24 www.haramuseum.or.jp
THE ART WORLD
OUR PICK OF THE CITY’S BEST EXHIBITIONS
Compiled by Alec Jordan
Maija Louekari, Siirtolapuutarha (2009)
MARIMEKKO SPIRIT ― PAAVO
HALONEN / MAIJA LOUEKARI /
AINO-MAIJA METSOLA
Marimekko is a brand known for its
daring prints and bold designs, and from
the very start, it championed the work
of young print designers, giving them an
opportunity to thrive and develop their
talents. This exhibit features three of
Marimekko’s representative designers,
and highlights several of each designer’s
prints – including prints specifically made
for the exhibit – as well as materials that
dive into the spirit of the brand and its
65-year history. The exhibit also tries
to tease out some of the reasons why
Finnish design has such an appeal for
Japanese audiences.
ginza graphic gallery Until January 13
www.dnp.co.jp/gallery/ggg_e/
Maija Louekari, Veljekset (2016)
50 | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | TOKYO WEEKENDER
Ai Shinohara, To the Bright – Nobita’s Great Adventure in the World of the
Monsters ©Ai Shinohara ©Fujiko-Pro
THE DORAEMON EXHIBITION TOKYO 2017
First brought to life in 1969, Doraemon has gone on to become one of the most
popular manga series in the world and has spawned a media empire that is still
going strong to this day. Generations of Japanese kids were raised on the adventures
of the time traveling cat from the 22nd century, and some of those kids
grew up to be artists. This exhibit features a variety of contemporary Japanese
creative minds, from art celebrities such as Takashi Murakami, Mika Ninagawa,
and Yoshitomo Nara to lesser known artists, all bringing their own unique take
to the blue feline and his friends. Mori Arts Center Gallery Until January 8
thedoraemontentokyo2017.jp/english.html
B
BOOKS
Looking to curl up with a good book
over the winter holidays? With this trio,
you’ll find food for thought, brilliant
prose, and more than a few laughs
BUNK, BY KEVIN
YOUNG
A recent Washington Post
article pointed out that, in
the first 300 days of Donald
Trump’s presidency, he has
made more than 1,600 false
or misleading claims. It’s clear
that a well researched book
like this is one for our times. Written by the poetry
editor for the New Yorker, Bunk’s subtitle is The
Rise of Hoaxes, Humbug, Plagiarists, Phonies, Post-
Fact, and Fake News. Although it examines these
phenomena from an American perspective, there’s
plenty here to be gleaned by readers worldwide.
Tiger Lilies and a Swallowtail, 1959, The National Museum of Modern Art,
Tokyo
KUMAGAI MORIKAZU: THE JOY OF LIFE
“I hope to live forever,” said Morikazu Kumagai at age 95, in a testament to his
love for life and his devotion to his art. Over more than seven decades, the artist
experimented with form and style, moving from realistic approaches and almost
scientific explorations of figures in low light to the deceptively simple works that
he would be known for later in life. While Kumagai is not widely known outside of
Japan, his art deserves greater attention, and this is the first retrospective of his
work to come to Tokyo in quite a few years. The National Museum of Modern
Art, Tokyo Until March 21 kumagai2017.exhn.jp/
WE ARE NEVER
MEETING IN REAL
LIFE, BY SAMANTHA
IRBY
Samantha Irby thinks that
this book’s cover kitten is like
the feline version of her: “wet
and gross and kind of sweaty
looking, and also hissing.”
That should give you a sense of her sharp wit,
mordant self-deprecation, and highly autobiographical
style. This best-selling collection of 20
essays proves that the author can find humor in
just about everything: her Crohn’s disease, awkward
sexual encounters, depression, and her long
stint at a veterinary clinic.
AN ARTIST OF
THE FLOATING
WORLD, BY KAZUO
ISHIGURO
The Japan-born, UK-raised
novelist surprised the literary
world by winning the
Nobel Prize for Literature
this year. He’s perhaps best
known for The Remains
of the Day, but his second novel shouldn’t be
overlooked. Published in 1989, it’s the account of
an artist who got involved in far-right politics in
the days before World War II, only to find himself
ostracized after war’s end. The slim volume is a
meditation on abrupt cultural and social change,
and the fallibility of the self image we all create.
TOKYO WEEKENDER | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | 51
1
2
3
Photo by SETO Hidemi, New National Theatre
4
6
7
8
5
AGENDA: THE WEEKENDER ROUNDUP OF WHAT’S HAPPENING IN DEC-JAN
1
JAN 1-31
2
DEC 21-24
3
DEC 16-24
4
DEC 31
TOKYO DOME CITY WINTER
ILLUMINATIONS
Known for its creative takes on
winter illuminations, Tokyo Dome
City is back this year with another
tempting theme – sweets.
Where: Tokyo Dome
How much: ¥1,600
More info: tokyoweekender.com
CHRISTMAS KAMAKURA
IGLOO DINNER
Tuck into a luxurious five-course
meal inside this cozy Kamakura igloo
at Andaz Tokyo’s Rooftop Terrace.
Where: Andaz Tokyo
How much: ¥80,000 per person
More info: tokyoweekender.com
CINDERELLA
The National Ballet of Japan
performs this well-loved story for
the Christmas season.
Where: New National Theater, Tokyo
How much: ¥3,240-¥12,960
More info: tokyoweekender.com
2018 COUNTDOWN
LOUNGE EVENT
Experience an unforgettable New
Year’s Eve with top DJs, free-flowing
champagne, cocktails, and canapés
at The Peak Lounge & Bar.
Where: Park Hyatt Tokyo
How much: ¥18,000-¥20,000
More info: tokyoweekender.com
5
DEC 27
6
JAN 15-16
7
JAN 12-21
8
DEC 14
“WE LOVE 80S DISCO”
NIGHT
For this annual party, Grand Hyatt
Tokyo’s Grand Ballroom is converted
into an 80s-themed club with freeflowing
drinks and plenty of snacks.
Where: Grand Hyatt Tokyo
How much: ¥13,000
More info: tokyoweekender.com
SETAGAYA BOROICHI
Hunt for treasures at this 400-yearold
street fleamarket featuring over
700 stalls selling everything from
pottery to vinyl.
Where: Boroichi Dori
How much: Free
More info: tokyoweekender.com
FURUSATO MATSURI TOKYO
This festival brings 300 companies
together to promote regional
specialties and traditions from
across Japan.
Where: Tokyo Dome
How much: ¥1,200-¥1,700
More info: tokyoweekender.com
GISHI-SAI
Watch this annual festival’s parade,
held in honor of the 47 Ronin and
the master whose death they
avenged.
Where: Sengaku-ji Temple
How much: Free
More info: tokyoweekender.com
52 | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | TOKYO WEEKENDER
11
9
10
12
9
DEC 1-25
CHRISTMAS MARKET AT
RED BRICK WAREHOUSE
All the essentials are in place for a
perfect festive date or family outing:
shopping, ice skating, hot wine and
delicious German food.
Where: Red Brick Warehouse
How much: Free
More info: tokyoweekender.com
10 JAN 26-28
JAPAN BREWERS CUP
Both a contest between craft
brewers and a festival, this event
boasts 35 Japanese brewers and 300
varieties of beer.
Where: Osanbashi Hall, Yokohama
How much: ¥500
More info: tokyoweekender.com
11 DEC 15
THAT’S WHAT SHE SAID!
COMEDY NIGHT
Have a good laugh at Japan’s first
and only all-women’s English comedy
night, which also raises money for
charity.
Where: Good Heavens Bar
How much: ¥3,000
More info: tokyoweekender.com
12 JAN 12-14
TOKYO AUTO SALON
The largest-ever showcase of custom
cars in Japan featuring plenty of glitz
and glamor.
Where: Makuhari Messe
How much: Advance ¥2,000, door
¥2,500
More info: tokyoweekender.com
TOKYO WEEKENDER | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | 53
Society
TOKYO’S LONGEST RUNNING SOCIAL COLUMN WITH BILL HERSEY
I
find it hard to believe, but this super city of ours has been
even busier than usual the last few months. It’s been impossible
to get to all the happenings I’d like to, and with the
holidays coming up soon, it’s going to continue to stay that
way right up to Shogatsu, the traditional Japanese New Year
celebration. I’m starting this column over the three-day holiday from
November 3 to 5, and driving around this morning, I was really surprised
at the number of big – and for the most part beautiful – Christmas
trees and traditional decorations that are up already or going
up all over Tokyo. By the time you read this, I’m sure old Edo will be
beautifully decorated for the holiday season.
Tokyo is changing
in other ways too. We’re
looking to the Olympics
in 2020, and what I’m
sure will be a very busy
schedule, and in preparation
for that there’s
renovation and construction
everywhere.
If you’ve lived here long
and know Japan, you can
see that our city, which
is already known as one
of the world’s cleanest
and safest in the world,
is getting better every
day. Just checking out
all the great events over
the last few months has
been amazing.
THE VON
WERTHERNS’
GERMAN UNITY
DAY GARDEN PARTY
Germany’s popular diplomats Ambassador Hans Carl Freiherr von
Werthern and his wife Elisabeth are always busy, and things were no
different for them this fall. They celebrated their day of German unity
on the 3rd, and they had Oktoberfest celebrations at restaurants,
bars, and National Azabu. The weather was perfect on the evening of
the 3rd, and the embassy residence and spacious garden were packed
with many friends and business leaders from both the Japanese and
German communities. Special guests included Wolfgang Tiefensee,
the State Minister of Economy, Science and the Digital Society. The
food (German, of course) and the ambiance were very special.
Elisabeth, our hostess for the evening, is British, and always looks
chic in original fashion. For the unification celebration, she asked the
Imagine One World Kimono Project group to help create her outfit,
and they came up with something so lovely. I especially liked the
Steiff German teddy bear on the back of her obi.
Another outstanding German event I attended was a special performance
of Brahms’s “German Requiem,” which marked the 500th
anniversary of the Reformation. This truly wonderful evening was
held at Ikebukuro’s super venue, the Tokyo Metropolitan Theater.
The R500 organizing committee, a small group from the worlds of
music, religion and business, got it all – and I do mean all – together
for more than 250 orchestra and chorus members. Under the baton of
esteemed Maestro Robert Ryker they brought together an event that
epitomized the beauty of musical harmony. A big and much deserved
congratulations, and thank you to the organizing committee: Mari Baba,
Roger Brookin, William Grimm, Masao Himer, and Robert Ryker. Kudos
as well to guest artists Misaki Morino (soprano), Johann Schram-Reed
(bass baritone), Satoko Kawagoe (pipe organ), and the over two hundred
musicians and vocalists from the Tokyo College of Music Chorus and
Tokyo College of Music Symphony Orchestra. They couldn’t have been
better.
Mrs. International Global 2017 beauty contestants Far too many patrons
to mention here,
but I do want to thank
the Embassy of the Federal
Republic of Germany
and the Embassy of
the Republic of Austria
for their support as well
as the support of many
others who helped make
it all happen.
ANTONIO INOKI
WRESTLING EVENT
On the sports scene, pro
wrestler, politician, and
long-time friend Antonio
Inoki hosted a special
evening. I couldn’t go,
but it looked intriguing.
The publicity brochure
featured a picture of him
wearing his traditional bright red scarf. My Japanese friends read
the unusual party name and translated it as Inoki’s “before his funeral
party.” I haven’t had time to look into what this actually meant,
but I’m happy to hear he’s fine. The program featured well known
international wrestlers from all over the world and I heard it was
very exciting. Seat prices were ¥5,000 to ¥50,000, and I’m sure all the
pro wrestling fans who attended thoroughly enjoyed it.
POGOSYAN’S ARMENIAN 26TH
INDEPENDENCE DAY AT OKURA
Armenian Ambassador Grant Pogosyan, his wife Natalia, their son Tigran,
and the embassy staff hosted a party at the Okura Hotel on the
occasion of the 26th anniversary of Armenia’s independence. Guests
included several friends I haven’t seen for some time, but there were
also plenty of new faces.
The ambassador’s speech was very informative and he talked
about the many projects that Armenia and Japan have undertaken
during their 26-year relationship. He was especially enthusiastic
about attending the Aurora Prize 2017. This year the million dollar
prize went to Dr. Tom Catena, a Catholic missionary who is the sole
doctor in the Nuba Mountains in Sudan. According to all reports, the
54 | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | TOKYO WEEKENDER
ARMENIAN 26TH
INDEPENDENCE DAY
CELEBRATION
1. Armenian attaché and Mrs. Yeruand Markosyan
2. Hiroko Matoba, Farida Rahman
3. Edward Papazian, his wife Hiroko and their
friend Zkanna Tase 4. Armenian Amb. Grant
Pogosyan, his wife Natalia and Pres. of the
Japan-Armenia Business and Cultural Group
Yasumine Satake 5. Turkmenistan attaché Serdar
Annagylyjov, Tigran Pogosyan 6. Avex Music’s
Christopher and Stephanie 1
2
3
4
5
6
8
9
7
9 11
10
12
TURKISH AMBASSADOR BIDS
SAYONARA
7. Vatican Amb. Archbishop Chennoth, popular
politician Kazuyuki and Mrs. Yamada
8. Panamanian Amb. Ritter N. Diaz, Tuna King
– Kiyomura Corp. Pres. Kiyoshi Kimura 9. The
hosting couple: Turkish Amb. Ahmet Bulent Meric
and his wife Kumiko 10. German Amb. Hans von
Werthern, his wife Elisabeth, Head of the Crown
Prince Household’s Nobutake Odano, his wife
Tamayo 11. Romanian Amb. Tatiana Iosiper, Sara
Hitchens (United Kingdom) 12. Fashion designer
Kansai Yamamoto, Rana Ismayilzade (Azerbaijan)
TOKYO WEEKENDER | | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | 55
BRAZIL CELEBRATES 195
YEARS OF INDEPENDENCE
1. Uruguayan Amb. Eduardo Gabriel
Bouzout Vignoli, Nobutake Odano
2. Deputy Prime Minister Taro Aso, Brazil
Amb. André Aranha Corrêa do Lago
3. Yuko Narasawa, Maria Ignez Barbosa,
the hostess Beatrice Corrêa do Lago
4. Brazil Amb. Corrêa do Lago, French
Amb. Laurent Pic 5. Staff members Paolo
Antonio Viana and Ivan Carlo Padre Seixas
1
2
7
3
4 5
6
8
11
9 10
14 15
12
13
AT THE GERMAN EMBASSY
DAY OF UNITY RECEPTION
6. German Institute for Japanese Studies
administrative director Joachim and
Barbara Rohr 7. Kenyan Amb. Solomon
Maina, his wife Rose 8. The host, German
Amb. Hans Carl Freiherr von Werthern
and El Salvador Amb. Martha Zelayandia
Cisneros 9. German embassy staffers
Claudia Muller, Ulrike Erdmann 10. Kimono
designers Nobumichi Tejima and Yoshimasa
Takakura with Amb. and Mrs. Werthern 11.
Mary Katayama and Elisabeth Werthern
BRAHMS REQUIEM
AFTER PARTY
12. Nikkei’s Stefan Wagstyle, his wife Anna,
Cecile Click 13. Indiana University President
Michael A. McRobbie, HIH Princess
Takamado, noted conductor Robert Ryker
14. Thierry Porte and Franciscan Chapel’s
William Grimm 15. German Amb. von
Werthern, his wife Elisabeth, Robert Ryker,
Michael A. McRobbie
56 | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | TOKYO WEEKENDER
doctor sometimes sees as many as 500 patients a day and performs
1,000 operations a year.
The awards ceremony took place in Armenia, and actor/philanthropist
George Clooney made the presentation. I have some great
memories of George. I first met him in Hollywood at a Batman premiere
and got to know him better when I went to Osaka with him
to promote a Warner Brothers film. One day we were driving to a
promotional event, and he started to sing “Tomorrow” from the musical
Annie. He was surprised I knew the song and insisted I sing a
duet with him. That was fun, and I feel so lucky that through friends
like Bill Ireton, who ran Warner Brothers here for 27 years, I have
enjoyed so many unusual showbiz experiences.
THE MERICS RETURN TO TURKEY
After three and a half years in Japan, Turkish Ambassador Ahmet
Bulent Meric and his Japanese wife Kumiko have returned to Turkey
for a new assignment. Proof of their popularity was a butt-bumping
crowd when they hosted a sayonara at their Kenzo Tange-designed
embassy and garden near Harajuku.
It was several hours of short and sweet speeches, pleasant music,
a superb Turkish buffet, and the Merics’ wonderful hospitality. Bulent
and Kumiko were really good friends and I, as well as everyone who
has had the privilege of getting to know them, will miss them dearly.
So long my friends, and thank you so much for many kindnesses. Take
care, and all the best back home.
Hopefully I’ll see them one of these days in Turkey, a country I
have been to several times and always enjoy visiting.
AMBASSADOR AND SENHORA CORRÊA DO
LAGOS’ GALA
Back in September, Brazilian Ambassador André Aranha Corrêa do
Lago and his dynamic wife Beatrice hosted an elegant evening at
their beautiful embassy in Kita Aoyama. The occasion was to celebrate
the 195th anniversary of their country’s independence.
Deputy Prime Minister Taro Aso was a special guest, and after
the ambassador’s welcome speech, he made a short and very informative
speech on Brazil and Japan’s long, strong, and mutually beneficial
relationship, and the many human ties and exchanges between
the two countries.
Brazil has the largest Nikkei (Japanese emigrants and their descendants
who have created communities throughout the world)
community in the world (around 1.9 million people), and in 2018 will
celebrate the 110th anniversary of Japanese immigration in Brazil.
In addition, this year, they’ll celebrate the 50th anniversary of the
first visit of the Imperial Majesties to Brazil. The photo exhibition
honoring the visit, which had been inaugurated at the embassy that
day, was immensely interesting and informative.
FASHION HAPPENINGS
Thanks to Steve Haynes, I had the opportunity to be a judge for the
Mrs. International Global 2017 competition in Shinjuku. A group of
nine Japanese women took part – the youngest contestant was in
her mid-30s and the oldest in her mid-50s. As you can see by the
photo on the previous page, they all looked fabulous. The show’s
main sponsor was a cosmetics company from Osaka called 727. Former
beauty queen Diana, along with Steve and friends, organized
the event.
I also had a front row seat to some of the shows at Amazon
Fashion Week, held at the many boutiques on Omotesando Street. I
bumped into the very cool Miss Supranational Emily Shimizu, whom
I first met when I was a judge at the Miss Supranational Japan Show.
She’s a busy lady and was leaving in a few days to attend a contest in
Albania.
Modeling agencies here don’t seem to be too affected by the new
rules and regulations in Europe and the US, and often bring in very
young girls from Europe. Over in Europe and some cities in America,
the bigger companies have all kinds of new regulations, like no more
size-zero models. I’ve also heard that regulations such as not bringing
in models under 16 are being enforced and have already caused
problems on the runways. It’ll be interesting to see what happens
with this in Japan.
TO DO
As this month’s column comes to a close, it’s mid-November and Tokyo
is getting more beautiful for the holidays every day. Be sure and
take your family and friends to check out Ark Hills’ lighting and the
Grand Hyatt’s lobby. Midtown Mall is really very special as well, and
Tokyo Tower is so cool this time of the year.
I’ve had a 50-year relationship with the Hilton hotel here, and
over the years I’ve worked with their dynamic PR and food and beverage
departments on fashion shows, cultural events, movie promotions,
and orphans’ holiday parties. They sort of spoiled me. And
they like to spoil their guests too.
If you take your kids to their big – and I do mean big – Cinderella
promotion in the lobby, you’ll see what I mean. The décor, the food
and the ambiance are really fantastic.
By the way, I will be at what I think is my 20th Christmas party
for less fortunate kids at the Hilton’s St. George’s Room from 3pm to
6pm on Tuesday, December 5. The kids are six to 15 years old and
are all very sweet.
If you’re interested in joining a group of community minded
people to help out, call me on 090-3200-6767 or Gonohe-san at the
Hilton on 03-3344-5111, and we’ll assign a child for you to take care
of during the party. I guarantee you’ll have a good time. Thanks on
this.
Steven Haynes and Iona at the Mrs. International
Global 2017 beauty competition
Filipino photographer Pawee and Yoh Miyazoe,
President of 727 Cosmetics
Bill, Miss Supranational Emily Shimizu,
Raymond Johnson
TOKYO WEEKENDER | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | 57
[ PROMOTION ]
WAYS TO
DEVOUR
TOKYO
Everybody knows that Tokyo is one
of the food capitals of the world. Here
are a few things any traveler should
have on their menu
BEEF UP
Wagyu is Japanese beef that’s
known for its rich marbling
and its decadently succulent
flavor. Of course, this kind of
quality doesn’t come without a
hefty price tag, but this is one
luxury that you’ll definitely
want to spring for. Some of
the best places to splurge:
either of Ukai-Tei’s locations
(there’s one in Ginza and one
in Omotesando), Yoroniku
in Aoyama, and Kobe Beef
Kaiseki 511 in Akasaka.
SAVOR SOME SUSHI
If you spent any time in Tokyo and didn’t feast on
sushi, your friends and family might just put you on
plane and send you back for a return visit. It might
be tough to get a seat at world famous Sukiyabashi
Jiro, but there are plenty of other options: look for
fancy fare at Kyubey or Tsugu Sushimasa, head
down to Tsukiji’s sushi spots for some of the freshest
fish around, or go for a playful take on conveyor
belt sushi at Sushi Go Round.
GET DOWN WITH ODEN
A classic winter food, oden comes in a wide variety
of shapes and sizes, all served up in a hot broth.
Everything from miniature sausages to boiled
daikon or tomatoes fits into the category of oden,
but perhaps the best-known variety are the many
items that are made from fish cake or konnyaku.
You can find restaurants that specialize in oden (try
Somen under the Nakameguro railway tracks), but
there’s really nothing wrong with getting it from the
combini. Not sure what a particular item’s called?
Just point at the pictures and you’ll be fine.
LEAVE ROOM
FOR DESSERT
If you’re looking for sweets that
are going to be as fun to look
at as they are to eat, you’re in
the right place. You can find
unicorn cupcakes and other
creations at Monarch of London
in Shibuya, while Dominique
Ansel in Omotesando or Ginza
has more brilliant confections
on hand than Willy Wonka. For
sheer technicolor explosions, try
Gram Factory’s shaved ice shop
in Shimokitazawa, or the Kyary
Pamyu Pamyu themed Kawaii
Monster Café in Harajuku.
HELP YOURSELF
TO A BOWLFUL
Ramen is one of the
country’s most recognizable
soul foods, and pretty much
every prefecture puts its own
spin on the noodle. Here
are the basics: shio ramen
means a salt based broth
with a pretty light flavor,
shoyu is a soy sauce based
soup, and tonkotsu features
a broth made from pork
bones. More exotic versions
of the dish can feature soup
flavored with everything
from tomato to green curry.
FEAST ON FAST INTERNET,
WHEREVER YOU ARE
No matter where your sense of
adventure – or your appetite – takes
you in Japan, you don’t want to miss
out on uploading your pictures and
posts, finding your way around, and
staying in touch with your friends
while you’re on the go. When you
rent a Pocket WiFi from Global
Mobile, you can be online all the
time, with blazing fast LTE. Service
is available for as little as ¥200
a day. For more details, visit
www.gmobile.biz/softbank/inbound.
58 | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | TOKYO WEEKENDER
TOKYO WEEKENDER | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | 59
To all investors and customers of The Parkhouse series:
The Mitsubishi Jisho Residence overseas
sales team is on hand for all your needs
For the most up-to-date information about Mitsubishi Jisho
Residence's new real estate projects, please visit our
English website at www.mecsumai.com/international/en
For inquiries, please email mjrtph@mec-r.com
Live in a Home for Life. The Parkhouse
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