Creative HEAD UK January 2018

alfolltd

In print•online•everywhere!

£4.50 JANUARY 2018

UNIQUE IS CHIC – THINK TECHNIQUE


NOT ALL HAIR

COLOUR IS CREATED

UAL

SHADES EQ BY REDKEN. THE TECHNIQUE PERFECTOR

USED BY IT-LIST COLOURISTS FOR A-LIST RESULTS


CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL


STAND OUT

WANT TO BANISH THAT BOX COLOUR FROM CLIENTS' BATHROOMS?

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THAT TRIPLE POWER OF PROFESSIONAL DIFFERENCE…

In 2018, consumer awareness of techniques is set

to grow. In the past, clients may have asked for

highlights, when concepts such as balayage and

contouring were but a twinkle in the colourist’s eye.

This is no longer the case.

IN 2017, THERE WERE OVER

1M GOOGLE SEARCHES FOR

BALAYAGE*

Professional techniques are now one of the biggest

awareness drivers in the colour industry, fuelled by

the increase in both consumers and professional

influencers showcasing their techniques and looks

on social media. This has arguably led to an increase

in consumers becoming savvier than ever on what

they demand from their colourist.

TECHNIQUES ARE ONE OF THE BIGGEST DRIVERS

OF THE PROFESSIONAL COLOUR INDUSTRY

Techniques in the hands of It-list colourists are what

sets Redken apart from the competition. Combined

with the unique finishing perfection of Shades EQ,

you have the recipe for A-list results and colour

success. So get ready to Shade the Nation and join

the technique revolution with Redken.


ONE OF A KIND

IT-LIST COLOURISTS WHO DEMAND THE BEST USE REDKEN

SHADES EQ. NOW IT’S TIME YOU FOUND OUT WHY

CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL

*Google Internal Search Data. During the period: Q3 2017 to Q4 2017, ‘Balayage’ was one of the top queries on

search by volume for Haircolour, a category classified by Google. **Improvement in shine is shade dependent.

Redken Shades EQ offers demi-permanent colour

without lifting hair. The formula is perfect to tone,

refresh or correct, as well as blending up to 50 per

cent white hair with a sheer result. With no ammonia,

the gel formula respects the integrity of the hair and

adds 100 per cent more shine** than before colouring

for the glossiest A-list results. It’s time to elevate

your colour technique to the next level with Shades EQ.

1.

EVEN RESULTS, NO COMPROMISE

no matter what hair you are working on

2.

INCREDIBLE GLOSSY SHINE

unlike anything in the market

3.

ULTIMATE COLOUR FLEXIBILITY

so you can personalise colour to each client with every service


TECHNIQUE PERFECTION

EVERY TECHNIQUE, EVERY COLOUR, EVERY CLIENT

IS COVERED WITH SHADES EQ

Millennial Mixer

Gracefully Grey

CLIENTS BORED

OF THEIR HAIR?

New Shades EQ Pastel

shades give ultimate colour

flexibility for clients who

want to keep changing

their look.

Quick Fixer

CLIENTS SHORT

ON TIME?

With 20-minute development

time, Shades EQ is perfect

for clients who want a colour

refresh in their lunch break.

CLIENTS KEEN

TO GO GREY OR

STUN IN SILVER?

Celebrate and

enhance naturally grey

hair with new Shades

EQ Silver shades.


’’

WHAT WAS I DOING

BEFORE I USED REDKEN

SHADES EQ? IT'S BEEN A

GAME CHANGER FOR ME

’’

JOSH WOOD, REDKEN GLOBAL COLOUR CREATIVE

DIRECTOR AND MOST WANTED HAIR ICON 2016

CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL

SIMPLY THE

’’

TWO OF THE INDUSTRY’S WORLD-LEADING COLOURISTS

REVEAL WHY THEY CAN'T LIVE WITHOUT SHADES EQ

I HAVEN'T FOUND A GLOSS

QUITE LIKE SHADES EQ. IT’S

TRULY IN A CATEGORY OF

ITS OWN. IT'S PERFECTION

’’

TRACEY CUNNINGHAM, CELEBRITY COLOURIST


MAKE A

STATEMENT

The power of Instagram is no secret, but did you know that Pinterest is fast becoming a

growing search platform for consumers looking for professional colour techniques? Get

inspired by Redken's Shades EQ pinboards on @REDKENUKI and discover the formulas

you need to create the latest techniques. It’s the perfect place to start when chatting to

clients about their colour goals, so get pinning today.

JOIN THE CONVERSATION!

Share your best Shades EQ techniques on Instagram using

#SHOWUSYOURSHADES.

Tag @REDKEN for a chance to be featured on Redken’s

global Instagram page.


#SHOWUSYOURSHADES #SHADESEQ #REDKENTECHNIQUETIME


ALWAYS O

WITH THE LAUNCH OF ITS PASTEL AND SILVER SHADES, DISCOVE

ON-TREND TECHNIQUES AND SHADES TH

Power Pastels

POWER PASTELS

Introducing four make-up-inspired

shades, which caused an Instagram

sensation, to create stylish pastel

hues. Choose from Pastel Pink, Pastel

Peach, Aqua Blue and Silver Green.

Silver Statements

SILVER

STATEMENTS

Shades EQ has a range of eight silver,

chrome and titanium shades that allow

you to personalise natural grey hair and

let clients unleash their #SilverHair.


N TREND

R HOW SHADES EQ ELEVATES FOUR OF THE MOST POPULAR

AT CLIENTS CAN'T GET ENOUGH OF

CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL

Balayage Blends

BALAYAGE

BLENDS

With a wide range of shades

to perfectly tone and add

incredible shine, no blonde or

bronde should leave your salon

without this service.

Get Glossed

GET GLOSSED

Make every service a colour service with

Shades EQ Crystal Clear. Like a lip gloss for

the hair, this will add stunning shine to any

colour, including virgin hair.


BE DIFFERENT.

BE REDKEN.

WANT TO BE PART OF A NEW-GENERATION COLOUR HOUSE?

JOIN THE REVOLUTION AND CALL REDKEN FOR

A BESPOKE COLOUR DEMONSTRATION

JOIN THE TRIBE TODAY – CALL 020 8762 4121 (UK) OR 01 6045918 (IRE)

REDKEN.CO.UK REDKEN REDKENUK REDKENUKI


CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM

AUTUMN

W I N T E R

2017

01_Cover_GW4.indd 1 17/08/2017 11:44

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Editor’s letter

70

It always struck me that for a man

who played such an enormous role

in changing the face of modern, high

street hairdressing, Toni Mascolo was

just so, well, nice. He was proud of his

achievements with Toni&Guy,

yes, but he wasn’t a proud

man, there was no hint of

ego. I would hear how even

as he entered his 70s, he

would still see clients,

taking in his packed

lunch for the day

ahead. Toni’s death,

just before Christmas,

is heartbreaking, for

his family, the Toni&Guy

community and indeed

the industry as a whole.

He will be missed, but his

warmth and his impact

will never be forgotten.

Thank you, Toni.

EVERY NEW YEAR’S DAY we set unrealistic goals that often

serve to make ourselves feel like failures when we invariably haven’t

stuck to them. So, I’m going to make a resolution that I think is actually

doable with a little effort and thought, and I urge you to join me in making

it also: we won’t be mediocre. I resolve that Creative HEAD and its events

and digital brands will not deliver anything dull, rehashed or average. I resolve

that we will fill our pages with the practical and the inspirational, content that

will serve to help elevate our industry at a time when it needs it most. We won’t

run photographic collections that perpetuate a tired aesthetic and say nothing to

the client that’s actually bringing money into a salon. We will help and support

you to grow your business, to excite your team, to experiment and try new ideas.

Look out over 2018 for new launches from us and fresh initiatives that are laserfocused

on making a real impact on this wonderful industry (check out page

53 for news of the British Beauty Council, by the way). Read our Review of

2017 and Preview of 2018, see what visionary names have done and are

doing, and think about what YOU can do to make mediocrity a dirty

word in your salon. If you don’t, January 2019 might look very

bleak indeed...

Amanda Nottage

Editor

JOIN US!

WELCOME TO 2018, a busy and

bumper year of Creative HEAD

events! If you have a Most

Wanted or It List trophy in your

sights, there’s not long to wait

– the competitions launch

on 1 March. Want to take

control of your business?

Book tickets NOW to Salon

Smart! Our brilliant business

networking event takes place

25 to 26 March and will

feature our most stellar line-up

EVER. The Coterie is back

on Monday 29 January – get

set for a fascinating debate on

creative rituals, hosted by London

College Fashion’s Tony Glenville.

And, while you’re online getting

tickets, check out our Creative HEAD

events movie showcase – featuring

2017’s coolest video moments. Visit

creativeheadmag.com/events

amanda@alfol.co.uk creativeheadmag.com creativeheadmagofficial

@creativeheadmag


January

WHAT’S INSIDE

78

SCENE

The Syd Hayes

circus spectacular

comes to town

FASHION

Hair legend Paul Merritt

reveals a new collection

44

REVIEW/PREVIEW

We showcase the highlights of 2017 and

what to look forward to in 2018

FREE INSIDE

ON THE COVER

Hair by Redken

S P A C E

SALON INTERIORS

Let’s reflect

FROM BRICK TO BRONZE,

INTERIORS TO INSPIRE AND ADMIRE

2 0 1 8

FREE INSIDE

EDITOR

AMANDA NOTTAGE

DEPUTY EDITOR

BETH DAVIE

ART DIRECTOR

NICK JABBAL

CHIEF SUB EDITOR

ADAM WOOD

STAFF WRITER

ANNA SAMSON

ADVERTISING

LAURA TUCKER

CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE

DAVID HAMMOND

DIGITAL DESIGNER

EVA VESTMANN

ONLINE AND

DIGITAL EDITOR

ALISON ROWLEY

SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR

JOANNA ANDERSEN

PUBLISHER

CATHERINE HANDCOCK

Creative HEAD is printed on

paper certifi ed as being from

sustainable sources using only

vegetable-based inks. Printed

by Buxton Press, Environmental

Printer of the Year and Printing

Company of the Year.

WRITE TO US AT:

Creative HEAD,

21 The Timberyard,

Drysdale Street,

London, N1 6ND

020 7324 7540

enquiries@alfol.co.uk

Creative HEAD is published

10 times a year by Alfol Ltd.

Creative HEAD is a registered

trademark. No part of this

magazine may be reproduced

without prior permission of the

publisher. All information correct

at time of going to press.

Printing by Buxton Press

creativeheadmag.com

creativeheadmagofficial

@creativeheadmag


a

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*From plants, non-petroleum minerals or water. Learn more at aveda.co.uk.


The edit

THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY

TONI MASCOLO OBE:

1942-2017

GIUSEPPE TONI MASCOLO, co-founder

of Toni&Guy, has died at the age of 75. Toni

founded the hairdressing group with his

brother, the late Guy Mascolo, in South

London in 1963. He became chief executive

of Toni&Guy, alongside its sister brands

essensuals and label.m, spending more than

50 years in the industry. Today, there are more

than 475 Toni&Guy salons across 48 countries.

Originally from Southern Italy, he arrived

with his mother and brothers in London in

1956 to join his father, who was working as

a barber in Knightsbridge. Soon after, Toni

went to work with his father in the West End.

In 1963 he and Guy found a space in Clapham

and opened the first Toni&Guy salon,

revolutionising modern British hairdressing

on the high street to what we know today.

In October 2006, Toni received an Italian

Knighthood – the Cavaliere Ufficiale – and

in October 2008 he was awarded an honorary

OBE for his services to British hairdressing. In

2013 Toni received an AH+AIPP International

Legend Award at the Alternative Hair Show,

which was presented to him by his younger

brother Anthony. In a statement, the Mascolo

family said: “We all loved him in life as we will

love him in death. He will be dearly missed.”

Toni is survived by his wife Pauline and

children Sacha, Christian and Pierre.

Brooker cuts for

Creative HEAD Club

SASSOON LEGEND Christopher Brooker made a rare return to the

hairdressing stage with a one-day workshop in creative skills and business

thinking, held at the Stannard & Slingsby salon in Kensington.

The creator of the iconic Firefly, Brush and Thatch hairstyles demonstrated

cutting techniques to an audience of enthralled stylists – including The It List

2017 winners Mike O’Gorman, Casey Coleman and Darcie Harvey – and also

found time to sign a pair of scissors, donated by Joewell in aid of ACT charity.

“It was the most wonderful day,” said Dale Hollinshead of Birmingham

salon Hazel & Haydn, who won a place at the workshop

after joining the new Creative HEAD Club.

“Christopher is such a passionate man.”

JOIN US! Become a member

of the Creative HEAD Club

for the chance to win more

opportunities such as this

and exclusive giveaways.

See page 3 for more details.

We all know that Most Wanted Session Stylist

winner Syd Hayes is one cool customer. Now

you and your clients can wear a little bit of his

cool vibe with the Syd Hayes Hair Pin (RRP

from £60). For the ultimate indulgence, opt for

the diamond-studded one – it’s only £3,000…

sydhayeshair.com

SEE SYD IN ACTION at our fi rst

Featured Artist Live event on page 78

12


THE NEXT GENERATION OF

VENTED HAIRBRUSHES

brush head contours to your

scalp for maximum detangling

IntelliFlex ® bristles detangle

without breakage

AVAILABLE AT ALL LEADING DISTRIBUTORS

please contact:

internationalsales@jdbeauty.com | 0800 098 8040 | PROWETBRUSH.COM

for stockists


#CHedit

TREATWELL JOINS FORCES

WITH THE PRINCE’S TRUST

TREATWELL IS SUPPORTING young people setting up

their own hair and beauty businesses by partnering with

The Prince’s Trust Enterprise programme.

The charity’s programme offers training, mentoring and

funding support to 18 to 30 year olds, and the online beauty

bookings service is helping to fund young people who want to

start a beauty business to participate in Enterprise.

Lopo Champalimaud, chief executive of Treatwell, said:

“We are excited to be able to work with young people to help

them realise their potential, and to help the hair and beauty

industry discover the stars of tomorrow.”

Lopo has also helped to raise funds for The Prince’s Trust by

joining the ‘Team Enterprise’ trek to the South Pole. Through

this expedition, Lopo hopes to bring Treatwell’s fundraising

efforts to a total of more than £1 million for the charity.

He joined a team of seven other business leaders (including

Treatwell chairman, Klaus Nyengaard), on a trip that took them

from Punta Arenas in Chile to the South Pole.

MEET OUR JANUARY

FEATURED ARTIST!

With more than 20 years in hairdressing and a

cover of The Sunday Times Magazine under

his belt, Andrew Jose is a star stylist. He lets

us into his world as this month’s Featured

Artist – only on Creative HEAD Education!

Visit creativeheadmag.com/education

REFRESHING YOUR SALON? Get inspired

with this Salon Ambience brochure, free with

your issue of Creative HEAD!

HAIRDRESSERS

‘LOVE TO MAKE

PEOPLE HAPPY’

THE BEST PART about

working in the hairdressing

industry is the chance

to make people happy,

according to a survey by

Direct Line for Business.

The research by the

insurance company

revealed that 40 per cent of

respondents said making

people happy was why they

loved hairdressing, followed

by meeting new people

(26 per cent) and creating

inspiring styles (17 per cent).

The research comes at

a time when it is becoming

increasingly diffi cult to attract

apprentices due to changes

in funding, see page 24 for

more information.

MY month

AHEAD

What January

has in store for...

SKYLER MCDONALD

SKYLER LONDON

We’re super-excited

about the reception

around our exclusive

Silk Bath technique and,

following this, the team

and I will be working on

creating new social content

for the year. I’m also speaking

at Salon Smart at the end of

March, so I am busy prepping

for this. It is an honour to

talk at such an interesting

networking event, discussing

the concept of my salon.

AKIN KONIZI

HOB SALONS

We’re making big

changes to the HOB

Academy; we’ve

got the builders in to

expand and refurbish

the Academy building

and we’re launching a new

HOB Bespoke education

concept and developing

a new internal long hair

teaching programme. Then

there’s planning for our new

commercial collections and

the Wella TrendVision Award.

JANET MAITLAND

INSPIRES NORTH EAST

JANET MAITLAND HAS brought

home a win at the North East

Business Woman of the Year

WIN Awards. The owner of Janet

Maitland Hair Excellence in Durham

was presented with the Inspire

Me award for the success of

her three salons, her work in

the local community and

her charitable work with

Schwarzkopf Professional’s

Shaping Futures initiative.

14


Not sure where to look for

business support in 2018?

Make joining the NHF your New Year resolution: as a Member you’ll have

everything you need at your fingertips for less than 75p a day.

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Brilliant ideas for boosting your business

You’ll wonder what you did without us!

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NHF membership from £147

Join before 28 February and quote CHJ25 to get

£25 off your membership fee.


Balayage bother no more!

New Rooted Strands from

Great Lengths allows the

flexibility to apply a less

detectable darker bond while

keeping lighter ends. Hurrah!

There are four shades to

choose from.

IN-SALON SERVICE

0113 2781292

greatlengths.co.uk

Create your perfect shade

of grey with new Dark Grey

Colour Dynamics from ASP.

For a subtler

look, add

ASP Colour

Dynamics

Pasteliser

to mix up

a stunning

pastel finish.

IN-SALON

SERVICE

01794 527111

asphair.com

Which do we love

more from R+Co

– the bright and

earthy RELATIVE

PARADISE

Fragrance Spray,

or these round

natural boar

brushes designed

by co-founder

Garan? We’ll just

take it all…

RRP £18.50

(SPRAY); FROM

£65 (BRUSHES)

01442 248104

randco.com

Want Instagram-worthy tools in your kit bag… or to

recommend to your selfie-loving clients? Then check out

the limited edition Modern Marble collection of tools and

brushes from Paul Mitchell.

RRP FROM £7.50

0845 6590013

salon-success.co.uk

Irresistible services consumers will want

to snap up, selected by the Layered team

There are some models who just exude effortless

cool, a certain subtle, chic vibe that women crave. Alexa

Chung has done that for the best part of a decade, and

it’s why she’s the face (or hair) of L’Oréal Professionnel’s

Parisian Nudes service. Ms Chung is rocking

the #COLOURMEFRENCH technique,

a pairing of two bespoke brunette

shades from Majirel that will enhance

your client’s colour to create an

effortless, multi-dimensional

nude finish. It’s a great way to

show how brunettes can still enjoy

tailored colour services that look

natural… and keep them away

from the DIY box!

IN-SALON SERVICE

0800 0304034

lorealprofessionnel.co.uk

Want that “Oh, I woke up like this” finish? Then

reach for the OSiS+ Made to Be Real styling

collection from Schwarzkopf Professional,

featuring Sand Clay and Wind Touch.

RRP FROM £10.95

0800 526741

schwarzkopf-professional.co.uk

Aveda has unveiled three

new aromas in its Pure-fume

Hair Mists range, inspired

by Brazil (Marassona), the

Middle East (Alanara) and

Asia (Mihana).

RRP £30 EACH

0370 0342380

aveda.co.uk

You can now take

out a kind-of colour

insurance against

your client’s hair

colour with Celeb

Luxury, which

keeps hair colour

looking fresh

and healthy. Grab

the bold care

option, Viral.

RRP FROM £25.95

0845 6590011

salon-success.co.uk

We love new Matte

Color, the latest

addition to milk_

shake’s creative

permanent colour

range. Characterised

by a predominant

green tone, there are

six cool matte shades.

IN-SALON SERVICE

01392 365177

milkshakehair.co.uk

With new technology that

gives you true-to-tone fading,

the 12 rainbow shades

(and one clear) from Wella

Professionals’ Color Fresh

Create will have your clients

crying unicorn tears of joy!

IN-SALON SERVICE

01202 595700

wella.co.uk

16


#CHedit

STOCK

OPTIONS

OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO

STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS

AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS

Redken has launched six on-trend shades

across its Shades EQ portfolio, ensuring

there’s something for every client. Whether

it’s the millennial mixer who likes to change

it up regularly, or the time-poor client that

needs a quick colour refresh in their lunch

hour, Redken has it covered. Going grey has

never been so cool and this is encapsulated

perfectly by Redken Shades EQ’s two new

silver shades, as seen on Vogue fashion

features director, Sarah Harris (pictured).

The polished Silver has beautiful metallic

tones, while the Steel shade is a medium

grey and provides a bright, silvery

shine. For those keen to embrace the

colourful hair trend, the new pastel

shades by Shades EQ will keep

them happy. The four new shades

include Pastel Pink – a soft pink

enhanced with violet hues and used

by Josh Wood, Redken global color

creative director, at Alexander Wang

S/S18; Pastel Peach – a pale orange

balanced with pink tones; Aqua Blue

– a radiant blue with subtle tones of

warmth; and Silver Green – a grasslike

green with metallic shimmer.

IN-SALON SERVICE

0845 6000815

redken.co.uk

IT’S ALL ABOUT... BEATING BRASS

Be a clean machine with Crazy Color’s

new intense, sulphate-free Ultraviolet

No Yellow Shampoo, perfect for grey,

blonde or super-lightened hair. You can

even use it as a gentle toner.

RRP £11.50

0141 8125000

crazycolor.co.uk

Aha! Joico has delivered a silver bullet in the battle

against brass – LumiShine Silver Blue series, an

arsenal of silver-blue based demi-permanent liquid

shades that deliver icy cool

results every time.

IN-SALON SERVICE

0845 0712326

joico-lumishine.com

CREATIVE HEAD

17


BOOST YOUR

BUSINESS WITH

£12,000

THAT’S HOW MUCH REDS HAIR AND BEAUTY IN SUNDERLAND HAS MADE IN SALES IN A YEAR FROM USING SMARTBOND,

THE REVOLUTIONARY BONDING AGENT FROM L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL. THE TEAM HAS ALREADY SOLD 600

APPLICATIONS SINCE IT LAUNCHED A YEAR AGO – SO JUST IMAGINE WHAT SMARTBOND CAN DO FOR YOUR SALON’S

BOTTOM LINE! ENCOURAGE CLIENTS TO USE IT WHEN THEY HAVE THEIR HAIR COLOURED AND THEY’LL ENJOY STRONG

AND PROTECTED HAIR! WE SPOKE TO SALON MANAGER GREG TEMPLE TO FIND OUT HIS TOP SMARTBOND TIPS...

1 Train your staff to get them on board with the product so that it’s easier for them to convince clients about Smartbond. Invite models to try the

service for free so staff and clients alike can see its benefi ts.

2 Incentivise your staff to sell Smartbond by offering an upgrade service to clients where they can take home a retail product; this helps staff

with retail sales and increases their commissions.

3 Just trust the product! The more you use it, the more clients can see its benefi ts over other bonding

products, how it maintains the integrity of the hair, and how it doesn’t affect the colour processing time.

THE FIX

Want to re-create a beautiful Parisian

Brunette colour in your salon? Check out

this stunning transformation created by

@trevorsorbiesalon. Want it? Recreate it for

your clients using the following steps:

STEP 1 Apply Dia Richesse 5.8 + 9 vol to roots

STEP 2 Apply Dia Richesse 6.8 + 9 vol to lengths

and ends

STEP 3 Use Smartbond throughout

Don’t forget to share your own transformations

using @lorealpro #lorealprouk #smartbond

RETAIL REHAB

Parisian brunettes are

all about effortless

glamour, so you need

the ultimate multitasker

– Mythic Oil by

L’Oréal Professionnel.

It shines, nourishes

and smooths without

weighing hair down

and provides heat

protection.

18

CREATIVE HEAD


*Source: 2015 Colourants Segmentation, Ipsos Base: Women aged 18-75.

**Kantar Worldpanel Usage: 52w/e June 2012-2016: GB: Females 17+

Be a

COLOUR ADDICT

FROM BEAUTIFUL BRUNETTES TO UNICORN DREAMERS,

GET ADDICTED TO COLOUR IN 2018 WITH

FOR THOSE CLIENTS wanting to start 2018 as

they mean to go on, and put their best foot forward,

there’s a new trend that’s simply perfect. It’s all about

Parisian Chic – subtle, sophisticated and seamless

colour to refresh your clients’ look for the New

Year. And who better to debut the Majirel palette

than queen of laissez-faire luxury, Alexa Chung,

L’Oréal Professionnel’s new ambassador. She wears

Parisian Nudes with the #COLOURMEFRENCH

technique, a pairing of two bespoke brunette shades

that will enhance your client’s colour to create an

effortless, multi-dimensional nude finish. Team it

with a textured cut or French girl fringe, and let the

tonal reflects enrich your clients’ colour, while still

retaining an understated, stylish vibe.

CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL

BRUNETTES

The number one hair colour in the UK is brunette, but

only 13 per cent of brunettes colour their hair exclusively

in salon.* At L’Oréal Professionnel, we know that 69 per

cent want a natural look,** but as a colourist you know

that ‘natural’ doesn’t mean just one bowl of colour or

just using base shades. It’s an opportunity for you to

showcase your professional difference, and that’s what

the Parisian Nudes service is all about. Effortlessly

natural isn’t effortless to achieve; it needs the specialist

hands of a colourist.

DO THIS NOW

1) Make sure you’ve got the new Alexa Chung Parisian

Nudes imagery, featuring the #COLOURMEFRENCH

technique, up in your salon and across your social media

– get your clients asking for a little French fancy!

2) Ensure everyone knows about the new Parisian

Nudes trend and the services and techniques that are on

offer so that they can chat about them with confidence

during consultations.

3) Create a menu of services that pique your client’s

interest further, all to illustrate this je ne sais quoi chic;

think textured cuts, scrappy bobs. Magnifique!

Get further addicted to colour with L’Oréal Professionnel – visit lorealprofessionnel.co.uk or call 0800 0304034

CREATIVE HEAD

19


THE SECRET OF…

ATTRACTING NEW CLIENTS IN JANUARY

THE BUSINESS EDIT

WHAT’S THE IMPACT OF

APPRENTICESHIP CHANGES?

DO YOU KNOW how software can

help salons looking to attract new

customers come the New Year? Let

us tell you how… keeping in mind

post-holiday budgets and the 30 per

cent of the population resolving to

̒ save more and spend less ̓, you’ll

need an intro offer with pricing that

entices, rather than intimidates. It

also needs to be simple to develop,

manage and sell – and easy for your

clients to buy. Here’s what to do:

Make sure your salon software

can facilitate new offers (i.e. multipleservice

packages, discount pricing,

pre-booking appointments) and that

you can track and analyse your sales

to determine their success.

Try a discounted, multiappointment

package that brings

in clients at a discounted price.

The aim is to create an amazing

experience to help them see the

value of returning at full price.

When designing this package,

offer more than one appointment,

giving you more opportunities to

build a relationship – and have

a clear expiration date. If you’re

recommending a four-session blowdry

package, have it expire in fi ve,

rather than 10, weeks.

DATA RELEASED BY the Department

for Education shows a 61 per cent drop in

the number of new apprentices starting

their programmes since changes to

apprenticeship funding were introduced

last May. Small and micro businesses

now have to pay 10 per cent of the cost of

apprenticeship training, about £900 per

apprentice for hairdressing and barbering,

unless they are taking on 16 to 18 year

olds. May also saw the introduction of new

Trailblazer standards for hair. Are salons now

staying away from investing in apprentices?

It’s something NHF chief executive Hilary

Hall had warned might occur. “Worries about

new standards will have contributed to the

drop, but the NHF has consistently warned

that changes to apprenticeship funding for

small and micro businesses – who make up

the vast majority of employers in our sector –

would lead to a catastrophic fall in take-up

of apprenticeships,” she says.

As the government has guaranteed a

35 per cent increase in apprentice numbers

during this parliamentary term, Sanrizz

hopes this will go some way to encourage

candidates. “At present, the industry

struggles to find the number of trainees

necessary to generate the amount of future

stylists needed to support salon businesses,”

admits Sharon Cox, head of education at

Sanrizz. “But this is not a reflection on new

legislation, it’s a reflection on the culture

within young people at school and being

encouraged to continue further education

by schools, rather than being given an

option of other career paths.” She adds that

the pressure is on salons to “encourage

and stimulate younger generations to stay

on after the completion of the course, and

develop their craft and careers”.

Michele Stewart, Contemporary’s

education programme manager, feels this

10 per cent charge is penalising potential

apprentices aged 19 and over: “Some

employers don’t want to invest in their

training if they can recruit a 16-year-old for

the same job, no fee! It’s had a huge impact

already on our recruitment.”

Although KH Hair has definitely noticed

a drop in the number of young people

applying to join its apprenticeship scheme,

managing director Darren Messias believes

this is in part due to advice being given to

both school-leavers and their parents about

the options available. “When pupils express

an interest in hairdressing, many schools are

pushing them towards further education in

a college and not always telling them about

the benefits of an apprenticeship.”

Alan D’s Edward Hemmings advises

salon owners not to be scared of the new

standards. “If your apprentice is under 19

and you’re a small business you will NOT

have to contribute to the training. In fact,

you can get a grant of £1,000,” he says. “You

will need to contribute to the end-test, but

you’ll still be quids in. If your provider is

good at what they do, you will have a workready

apprentice in about two years.”

20

Remove the pricing barrier by

offering a discount, but don’t price

too low or offer freebies as it will

mean low retention. And avoid

having too many pricing options,

you’ll just confuse your clients.

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

For more salon-savvy secrets by MINDBODY,

visit uk.mindbodyonline.com

From inside the salon

KEITH MELLEN ANNE VECK SALONS

At Anne Veck Salons, we’ll continue to consider new apprentices aged

19 or older, but we’ll be even more thorough than before due to the

triple-whammy of costs. However, the financial incentive for taking

on 16 to 18 year olds is welcome and has already shifted our focus to

this group. Employment models are changing at a bewildering speed

and we need to compete with other creative industries for young

talent. Two years of on-the-job training and salon drudgery disguised

as salon experience is not sustainable. We’re looking to rebalance our

apprenticeships so they offer more training and less assistant-type

duties. If hairdressing is to survive, something must change.

CREATIVE HEAD


#BusinessEdit

TIMOTHY FOSTER

WAHL

STYLING TOOLS FOR WOMEN

– WHY LAUNCH THEM NOW?

The Wahl Style Collection has

been borne out of a desire to

create a credible alternative

for professional stylists.

We want to break through the

veneer of the superficial by

creating a range of products

that put the substance back

into style.

WHAT MAKES THE WAHL

STYLE COLLECTION TOOLS

DIFFERENT?

Our Styling Iron and Dryer

are the culmination of a

rigorous and considered

process. Co-designed with

leading stylists Hooker &

Young, the result is a set of

tools that are built with a real

understanding of the needs

of today’s stylists; tools that

are robust enough to live

up to the demands of the

busy salon environment and

dynamic enough to create

hair that lives up to life. The

Iron features contoured

ceramic plates that heat

and cool in ultra-fast time,

with variable heat settings

and a three-metre swivel

cord. Our perfectly balanced

Dryer is quiet yet powerful,

with Quick Dry Air Flow, a

Whispertek silencer, three

heat settings, two nozzles and

the ability to switch on Turbo

Heat or Cool Shot.

WHAT CAN WE EXPECT FROM

WAHL IN 2018?

We’ll be exhibiting at various

industry shows and launching

our Wahl Style Collection UK

roadshows with Hooker &

Young to showcase our new

range. Watch this space!

Q

A

TAKE TO TWITTER AND QUIZ YOUR HAIR HEROES!

LARRY KING,

LARRY KING SALON

You might seem like an overnight success, but I’m guessing it was a long journey. What was

the tipping point?

@darrenfowlerhair

Blimey, I wish it had been that easy. But no-one hands you success on a plate. It’s taken hard

graft – working long days and never saying no to an opportunity. It’s meant missing out on

special events with my kids at times, when all you want to do is stay home. At the end of the

day it’s only you who can really make it happen.

The tipping point was asking my wife Laura to help. Laura’s been designing for years, she’s

helped loads of my friends with their businesses and one day I said: “Right, now it’s time to

help me.” She doesn’t mess about; within a few of weeks she’d designed the branding, created

a business plan and started work on the website and salon interiors. She runs the business

with me on a daily basis, which gives me more time to be creative.

What is your secret when it comes to working with curly hair?

@S3Kat

I start wet and cut while it dries naturally, so you can see it taking shape. Always blunt cut

and never use thinning scissors on curly hair. I love Redken’s Frizz Dismiss, then Full Effect

04 mousse, which adds body and volume without the dreaded crispiness and then a couple of

pumps of Redken’s Curvaceous Ringlet and the Dyson Supersonic with the diffuser.

How have you used the relationships you’ve nurtured over the years to create a buzz about

your brand?

@NasalHairSpray

There has been an incredible buzz created by my friends posting and mentioning the salon.

But to be honest I rarely ask people to post, everything you see is organic. I’m so lucky to have

an amazing friendship group. The launch party last January was a testament to this. Our PR

company told us to invite 400 if we were hoping to have 250 turn up. We did – and 398 came!

Is the press important to you and your brand, or is it all about social media and influencers

these days?

@BeautyJournoSJ

Both are important. I think influencers are an incredible way to get customers through the

door – you can’t beat real life recommendations. But the press is still key to building brand

awareness and market positioning.

Next issue: Phil Smith. Tweet us your question @creativeheadmag

SEE

LARRY KING

SPEAK AT

26 MARCH AT THE PARK

PLAZA, LONDON

CREATIVE HEAD

21


#BusinessEdit

KEN’S CLINIC

GOT A BUSINESS HEADACHE? LET KEN WEST, DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS

EXPERTS 3•6•5, OFFER A PERSONAL PRESCRIPTION

KEN’S DIAGNOSIS

Austen, the reality is that the generation we are

training now is different from mine, yours, and

those of recent years. I could spend hours explaining the

differences but I suggest you watch some of the online

content from business consultant Simon Sinek. Once

you accept the challenges are different, you begin to

realise that the solutions must also be different. Sadly,

we continue to train in the same way that we have done

for as long as I can remember. Yes, we have had improved

syllabuses and changes to processes but, to put it simply,

we pay as little as we can to trainees while taking as long

as we can to train them because we need them to fulfil

mundane roles in the salon. This does not appeal

to the ‘now generation’.

Okay, many are screaming at me in defence

of the system, but would a trainee doctor

spend one day a week learning medicine and

the other four changing beds and mopping

the floors? Of course not, because they need to

be treating patients as soon as possible.

Answer me this: if you trained

someone in practical skills all day

every day, how long do you think

it would take them to become

income producing?

There are many salons that

invest their time and money on

in-salon training, but there are

also too many that send their

trainees off to college for

30 days over three or four

I NEED ASSISTANCE WITH ASSISTANTS

In recent years we’ve had assistants who

want instant fame but don’t have the

passion and don’t want to put in the time

or effort to master hairdressing. In the

culture of instant gratification in which

we now live, what should we do to help

the next generation appreciate a craft that

takes years to master?

AUSTEN THOMSON, CREATIVE

DIRECTOR, AUSTEN THOMSON HAIR

years to achieve qualifications most salon owners would

not accept as good enough.

So, what do I think the solution is? Well if the ‘true

investment’ in any trainee is the cost of 90 days of

training, then why not make this investment up front?

Trainees could be on the floor sooner and earning money

for you (and themselves) much more quickly.

This now becomes far more appealing to the ‘now

generation’, but why stop there? Surely this type of fasttrack

training would appeal to anyone, of any age, who

may be considering hairdressing as a career change?

During their training they could also be come ‘social

trainees’ just as at 3•6•5 we train stylists to become ‘social

stylists’, sharing their progress and the fun and exciting

events and courses that they attend. This way they create

interest among their friends, which may even lead them to

want to go into hairdressing as a career.

Going back to your original question, you mentioned ‘a

craft that takes years to master’. Master yes, but learn to

an acceptable standard, no. Our industry has a shortage of

stylists NOW. Salons that apply outside-the-box thinking

to training will be the winners in the long term.

We need to provide fast and exciting training with

a decent level of salary as this generation learns and

provide opportunities to earn good salaries in the

future. This comes from charging higher prices,

which comes from delivering a higher quality

service, which comes from truly valuing

ourselves as professionals… if we don’t, then

sadly, you and I will be having the same

conversation for years to come.

SEE

KEN WEST

SPEAK AT

25 MARCH AT THE PARK

PLAZA, LONDON

DO YOU HAVE A BUSINESS HEADACHE YOU'D LIKE KEN TO HELP WITH?

Email him directly on KenW@365Hair.com or tweet us at @creativeheadmag

22

CREATIVE HEAD


#BusinessEdit

SELF-EMPLOYED

IS THE NEW NORM

CHAIR RENTERS AND self-employed

hairdressers and barbers now outnumber

those who are directly employed within the

industry, latest figures published by the

NHF have revealed.

A total of 57 per cent of hairdressers

and barbers were self-employed in 2017,

compared with 48 per cent the year before,

the NHF statistics published in December

showed. The percentage who were selfemployed

within beauty went down slightly,

to 54 per cent from 57 per cent, but was also

still more than half.

The role of self-employed workers in

the UK – how they can potentially be

exploited but also the effect they can have

on wages and competition – is being closely

scrutinised by the government.

Last summer it published a Review

of Modern Working Practices, which

recommended the creation of a new form

of worker, a “dependent contractor” who

would be a halfway house between being

employed and self-employed.

Budget hope for VAT

Elsewhere in the Budget, the NHF has given a

cautious welcome to the announcement that

the government will consult on the possibility

of changing the threshold for which businesses

must become registered for VAT. The threshold

currently stands at £85,000, but the NHF has

campaigned for this to be reduced to

£40,000 and the

20 per cent rate of VAT to

be reduced to 5 per

cent to create a more

level playing fi eld

between salons that

are VAT-registered and

those that are not.

BE READY!

Pensions autoenrolment

change in April

– employer’s contribution

will rise to 2 per cent;

employees’ contributions

to 3 per cent

Host Ed James, NHF president Agnes Leonard,

Melissa Timperley and Unite’s Andrew Dale

NHF CELEBRATES THE BEST

MANCHESTER’S MELISSA TIMPERLEY SALONS was among those

celebrating at the NHF’s Business Awards, Britain’s Best and Photographic

Stylist of the Year competitions, walking away with two awards and one

runner-up prize. More than 250 guests came together to see the winners of

the NHF’s first ever Business Awards being crowned at the Vox Conference

Centre in Birmingham. The awards, with 10 categories, were launched to

celebrate the NHF’s 75th anniversary. Melissa won in the Best New Business

category, plus the Male Fashion Look in Photographic Stylist of the Year. Her

apprentice, 18-year-old salon Halle Whitehead, also came third in the Britain’s

Best students and trainees Hair-up category. Full listings of the winners from

all three events can be found online at nhf.info

Sharp increases set for wages

DESPITE SALONS and barbershops already having to deal with rising

prices and uncertain consumer confidence, chancellor Philip Hammond

announced what he described as “the largest increase in youth rates in

10 years” in his Budget.

Mr Hammond said the increase in the National Living Wage would give a fulltime

worker on this rate a £600 pay increase. The increase in minimum wage

rates would give a pay boost to more than two million workers, he added.

NHF chief executive Hilary Hall expressed dismay at the increases. “We

are disappointed the government has seen fit to push ahead with such big

minimum wage increases. These increases will cause real pain for many small

business owners,” she said.

RATE CURRENT FROM APRIL 2018

National Living Wage (over 25s) £7.50 £7.83 (up 4.4 per cent)

Age 21 to 24 £7.05 £7.38 (up 4.7 per cent)

Age 18 to 20 £5.60 £5.90 (up 5.4 per cent)

Age 16 to 17 £4.05 £4.20 (up 3.7 per cent)

Apprentice* £3.50 £3.70 (up 5.7 per cent)

*The apprentice rate applies to those aged 16 to 18 training on an apprenticeship and to

those aged 19 or over who are in the first year of an apprenticeship

To find out more information and how to join the NHF, call 01234 831965 or visit nhf.info

24

CREATIVE HEAD


n target

Your targeted toolbox to help build your

salon business bigger and better, in association

with Salon iQ and the Creative HEAD Reader Panel

Methodology: survey conducted by Independent Survey Solutions in a poll of 50 salons employing four or

more staff and spread geographically across the UK

THE TARGET

PROMOTIONS THAT PULL IN REVENUE

You know the phrase – New Year, New You! –

and without a doubt January is the month that

many salons choose to target all those who

have started New Year’s resolutions, want to

turn over a new leaf and make changes with

their hair. It can be a quiet month, so the more

you can utilise your marketing tools, the more

bums on seats you’ll get!

Do you use a specialist marketing agency?

YES 26%

NO 74%

Do you employ an in-house PR or an

allocated promotions person?

YES 46%

NO 54%

Most important methods of promotion

1. INSTAGRAM

2. FACEBOOK

3. WORD OF MOUTH

AVERAGE RETAIL TURNOVER

9.21%

AVERAGE CLIENT SPEND EXC. VAT

£40.84

NEW CLIENTS ACCOUNT FOR

9.2% OF VISITS

(October 2017)

“I cannot remember life

before SMS marketing.

It shows we are serious

about what we do and

I believe it promotes our

professionalism, and

our clients have come to

rely on it, too”

KIMBERLEY LEVINE,

GREAT HAIRDRESSING & BEAUTY

ARE YOU

ON TARGET?

How was business in October

compared with September?

DECLINING

14%

STABLE

20%

GROWING

66%

How was business in October

compared with October last year?

STABLE

13%

DECLINING

7%

GROWING

80%

Salon iQ

sent 608,000

SMS in

October

2017

SNAPSHOT

90%

were read

within three

minutes of

being sent

97%

open

rate

One Salon

iQ client

sent 5,129

SMS on

4 October

A PING OF A LITTLE SMS MESSAGE CAN

HAVE A BIG IMPACT ON YOUR BOTTOM LINE

247

booked an

appointment

from this

SMS blast

9.82%

booked

£537.04

generated

(this doesn’t

include future

bookings)

The above fi gures from within six days of SMS being sent

WANT SALON IQ TO HELP YOU STAY ON TARGET? CALL ON 01892 280123 OR VISIT SALONIQ.COM

CREATIVE HEAD

25


ADDICTED TO

COLOUR

THE L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY, THE WORLD’S LONGEST RUNNING LIVE HAIR COMPETITION,

OPENS FOR ENTRIES THIS MONTH AND IS YOUR CHANCE TO BECOME THE UNDISPUTED

COLOUR CHAMPION OF THE WORLD

IT’S A MOMENT THAT’S captured for ever – the tears, the

smiles, the explosion of glitter and the all-important L’Oréal

Colour Trophy in your hands – and it’s a moment you could

experience come June this year if you enter the longestrunning

live hairdressing competition in the world.

The L’Oréal Colour Trophy puts the focus on colour and

fashion. Your challenge? To create an on-trend, beautiful

look that you can show off in your salon window – and

nationwide if you make it through the regional heats. To be

a winner, you need to be fiercely passionate about the whole

colour spectrum, have inspiration practically oozing out of

your pores and be able to colour with the best of them.

For those that want to show off their barbering skills, the

Men’s Image Award is what they need, while the Afro Award

shows off the talent behind textured hair. And for the hot

young colourist setting hues ablaze there’s the STAR Award!

The L’Oréal Colour Trophy 2018 is open for entries

on 8 January and you don’t even need to be a L’Oréal

Professionnel salon to be able to enter.

So if you think you’re the best colourist out there, prove it!

26


CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL

IS 2018

YOUR YEAR?

Visit

lorealcolourtrophy.com

and enter NOW!

WE WON!

LINTON & MAC, ABERDEEN

SARAH BLACK, PRINCIPAL STYLIST

“Winning L’Oréal Colour Trophy has been the most incredible experience of my career.

I joined Linton & Mac in January last year and the entry process meant I was able to work

closely with my colour team. As an experience, it’s unrivalled. I feel like this award has

made us all feel unstoppable as a brand. Linton & Mac is only two years old, so we’re all

looking forward to what the future brings us. To anyone thinking about entering, go for it –

and don’t hold back. Stay authentic to your vision and believe in yourself.”

HOW TO ENTER LCT18

1. Head to lorealcolourtrophy.com

2. BUILD your personal profi le

3. Choose your CATEGORY

4. COMPLETE your ENTRY FORM ONLINE

and upload your photo (no more than one year old)

5. Please consult full L’Oréal Colour Trophy

TERMS AND CONDITIONS before entering

6. SUBMIT your application before 26 February 2018

@lorealpro @lorealprouk /lorealprofessionnel.uk #LorealproUK #LCT18

Call 020 8762 4617 or visit lorealcolourtrophy.com for more information

27


2018 marks the 63rd year

of the longest-running live

hairdressing competition,

The L’Oréal Colour Trophy

Are you addicted to colour?

L’Oréal Professionnel is looking for the most creative

amongst you to design the ultimate, forward thinking,

inspirational, trend driven total look.

Share with us your colour addiction.

Entries open 8th January 2018, enter at*

Lorealcolourtrophy.com

Follow us

@lorealpro #lorealprouk #LCT18

*Open to UK residents aged 16+ entering as part of a salon team of no more than 4 people. Entries

must be uploaded onto www.lorealcolourtrophy.com by 26/02/18 and must use only L’Oréal

Professionnel products. Entry photos must be in colour and no more than 1 year old at the date

of entry. Winning team receives the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Award 2018 and the chance to attend

other events to include a 3-day European trip. See www.lorealcolourtrophy.com for full details and

terms and conditions. Promoter: L’Oréal Professionnel, a trading division of L’Oréal (UK) Limited.


Grand Final 2017 Show, Hair by Sklyer McDonald at SEANHANNA


TO CELEBRATE THE

TALENT ACROSS THE

AVEDA SALON NETWORK,

THE BRAND IS RUNNING A

SERIES OF #AVEDAARTIST

COMPETITIONS, WHERE

ASPIRING STYLISTS

ENTER CREATIVE IMAGES

ON INSTAGRAM FOR A

CHANCE TO WIN A SHOOT

DAY WITH THE AVEDA

ARTISTIC TEAM.

WINNERS FRANCESCA

KING, DRUE MOCK, LEAH

SMITH AND KENNY YUEN

WERE INVITED TO DIRECT

THEIR OWN SHOOT AT

AVEDA LONDON, TASKED

WITH THE THEME OF

WARRIOR BRAIDS. WHAT

WOULD THESE AVEDA

ARTISTS CREATE?

PHOTOGRAPHY

BY DANIEL SIMS

30

CREATIVE HEAD


CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL

CREATIVE HEAD

31


“WE’RE A NEW

SALON IN A REALLY

COOL LOCATION

IN LANCASHIRE,

AND I WANTED TO

BRING A LONDON

VIBE THERE, TO

REALLY MAKE OUR

MARK. THAT’S

WHY I ENTERED

THE #AVEDAARTIST

COMPETITION”

LEAH SMITH

THE BLONDE & THE BEARS

@LEAH3799

GO ONLINE to see all the competition

entries by searching #avedaartist

on Instagram, and visit @AvedaUK

32 CREATIVE HEAD


“THIS IS LIKE COMING TO JAM!

WE’RE INSPIRED BY EACH OTHER

– THAT’S WHY I’M DOING THIS,

AND IT’S WHY I ENTERED THE

#AVEDAARTIST COMPETITION!”

KENNY YUEN

GINA CONWAY @KENNY.Y__

HAIR Francesca King and Drue Mock, Daniel Rymer Male Grooming; Leah Smith, The Blonde & The Bears;

Kenny Yuen, Gina Conway, assisted by Kirsty Dorling-Brown for Aveda. MAKE-UP Lucy Broggio

CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL

“WE WANTED SOMETHING WITH

GRIT, NOTHING TOO FEMININE. WE’RE

FREESTYLING HERE, PLAYING WITH

GAME OF THRONES, VIKINGS AND

FESTIVALS FOR INSPIRATION”

DRUE MOCK AND FRANCESCA KING

DANIEL RYMER MALE GROOMING

@DRUEBOYBARBER, @FRANKING24

CREATIVE HEAD

33


WORKSHOPS

FINDING STAFF

PRESENTATIONS

SUCCESS

LIVE DEBATE

STOCK & SERVICES

REAL EXPERIENCES

PRODUCTIVITY

NEW CONNECTIONS

KEEPING CLIENTS

NON-STOP NETWORKING

Associate sponsors


TAKE CONTROL OF YOUR BUSINESS

25-26 March 2018

Park Plaza Riverbank Hotel, London

CALL TO BOOK 01434 610944

WEEKEND PASS £245* plus VAT

DOUBLE DEAL WEEKEND PASS £450** plus VAT

MONDAY PASS £100 plus VAT

For full event information visit creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart

*£50 single room supplement applies **Based on two sharing a double or twin room

In partnership with


Simon Tickler, Salon Success

Gavin Hoare, Richard Ward

Hair & Metrospa

Sarah Guild, BrandSTAND

Communications

Zoë Vears, Salon Success

Carolyn Sweeney, Creations

Matt Robinson, Mr Robinson’s Barbershop

Hari Efthymiades, Cut & Grind

Jennifer Linton & Joanna MacDonald,

Linton & Mac

Jonathan Andrew, Jamie Stevens

Andrew Mulvenna, Andrew Mulvenna

Monica Teodoro, L’Oréal Professionnel

Dale Hollinshead, Hazel & Haydn

Alan Edwards, Alan Edwards Ken West, 3•6•5 Hair

Jane Williams, Reed Hair

Tom Chapman, Tom Chapman Hair Design

In partnership with

Associate sponsors


Ky Wilson, The Social

Simon Webster

Hair

Joanna Hansford,

Jo Hansford

Sally Montague, Sally Montague Hair Group

Brooks & Brooks

Larry King, Larry King

Skyler McDonald, Skyler London

Sam McKnight

25-26 MARCH 2018, LONDON

Andrew Cannon, Ruffians

BRIGHT IDEAS, REAL EXPERIENCES

TRIED, TESTED AND TALKED ABOUT BY

REAL HAIRDRESSERS, JUST LIKE YOU.

HEAR FROM THEM ALL!

CALL TO BOOK 01434 610944

More details creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart

creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart @creativeheadmag #salonsmart18


BREATH OF

FRESH AIR

THE NEW YEAR IS THE PERFECT TIME TO TRY SOMETHING

DIFFERENT – AND CELEB LUXURY ISN’T JUST A NEW

PRODUCT RANGE, IT’S A WHOLE NEW COLOUR CATEGORY

WHAT IF WE SAID there was a kind of

colour insurance you could take out against

your client’s hair colour? Something that

keeps colour fresh, vibrant and healthy

between colour services that was so much

more than your usual wash and go?

Celeb Luxury is that insurance. Available

exclusively through Salon Success, it’s

made up of Gem Lites for traditional colour

shades and Viral for bolder hues. The

ranges promise to:

● Fight colour fade

● Protect colour from the sun and

environmental damage

● Protect from heat styling damage

● Stabilise peroxide-based colour from the

first day hair is coloured

The cruelty-free and vegan-friendly lines

feature a shampoo, conditioner and styler,

but Colorwash with Colorposit technology

is the centrepiece.

Designed to be used before or as a

replacement to a client’s usual shampoo,

Colorwash provides instant real rich or

bold colour results that clients will love.

In fact, when using the entire Gem Lites

or Viral systems, laboratory testing

results revealed:

● Reduced breakage by up to 91 per cent

● 24-hour frizz and humidity control

● Reduction in static by 95 per cent

● Heat protection from styling tools

up to 230°C

● Thermal damage was prevented

38


THE SYSTEM INCLUDES

GEM LITES SHINEWASH

GEM LITES BONDITIONER

GEM LITES CELEB SECRET FIX

CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL

A TRUE GEM

Gem Lites Colorwash is made up of 10

brilliant tones and three clear ones for

traditional shades. Clients will enjoy

real, rich colour and conditioned results

with reduced colour fade, and should

alternate the Shinewash with their

chosen shade of Gem Lites Colorwash.

THE SYSTEM INCLUDES

VIRAL MOISTUREWASH

VIRAL BLONDITIONER

VIRAL SMOOTHING STYLER

GO VIRAL

For those who like to go bold, Viral

Colorwash features seven extreme

colours, three pastels and three

clear tones. It creates bold colour on

prelightened hair or jewel tones on

deeper shades. Clients will enjoy a

high-lather cleanse and conditioned

results with reduced colour fade.

CELEB LUXURY IS AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY FROM SALON SUCCESS AND SALON SERVICES STRICTLY

TRADE-ONLY STORES. FOR MORE DETAILS, CALL 0845 6590011 OR VISIT SALON-SUCCESS.CO.UK

39


SHOW OF

FORCE

THE COLOR ZOOM ’18 COLLECTION FROM GOLDWELL FUSES OLD AND NEW,

RAWNESS AND REFINEMENT, TECHNOLOGY AND SIMPLICITY. AT ITS CORE IS A

DESIRE TO KNOW OUR ORIGINS AND A PRIMAL URGE TO CONNECT. IT’S ELEMENT∆L

AMAZING FASHION meets stunning hair artistry – that’s

Color Zoom. And at its heart is the Color Zoom Collection.

Designed by the global winners of the Color Zoom Challenge

together with two of Goldwell’s international artists, it

inspires stylists to push the limits of creativity.

This year, the Color Zoom ’18 Creative Team has crafted a

collection with raw edges and rough textures that harks back

to the beginnings of human life, combined with a look to the

future, propelled by technology. A new energy is created, it’s

visionary, it’s element∆l.

ELEMENTAL COLOURS

Muted pastels and rich

earthy tones overlap and

refine one another, creating

a sense of translucency.

A weathered patina forms a

muted shimmer where matte

and unpolished tones appear

beneath a luminous surface.

Moving beyond metallic

into mineral tones reveals a

variety of harmonious shades.

40 CREATIVE HEAD


CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL

ELEMENTAL SHAPES

A minimalistic approach

conveys sophistication with

a sense of the elemental. The

key to a precise but intuitive

look is a primal foundation

created by soft and jagged

edges. The look is completed

by handcrafted shapes that

are subtly asymmetric with

unexpected irregularities.

ELEMENTAL TEXTURE

The element∆l Collection is

influenced by the balance

created between raw and

refined elements. Skilful

texturing lends an airiness

that flows into the styling to

create a future-forward look.

CREATIVE HEAD

41


ARE YOU

READY TO BE

A STAR?

THE COLOR ZOOM CHALLENGE IS THE OPPORTUNITY

OF A LIFETIME. TAKE IT ON AND MAKE YOUR CREATIVITY

COUNT. BECOME THE STAR YOU WERE BORN TO BE…

GET

ORGANISED

THE CLOSING

DATE IS

31 MAY

42

CREATIVE HEAD


You want to be the very best at what you do – and be

recognised for it. So how can you achieve this? Enter the

Color Zoom Challenge with Goldwell. It’s one of the most

prestigious live competitions in the industry and it’s your

chance to put yourself out there and be seen by your peers.

HOW TO ENTER

You’ve seen Goldwell’s latest hair fashion collection,

element∆l, now use it for your inspiration and enter

the category that applies to you. Each country will then

reveal gold, silver and bronze winners in each of the

three categories:

NEW TALENT – Junior stylists with less than five years of

experience (excluding an apprenticeship)

CREATIVE – Stylists with more than five years of

experience (excluding an apprenticeship)

“I GOT TO MEET AND COMPETE AGAINST STYLISTS FROM

AROUND THE WORLD, WHICH WAS INCREDIBLE. IT IS

SOMETHING I’LL NEVER FORGET – IT’S REALLY BOOSTED

MY CONFIDENCE AND HELPED TO INSPIRE ME FURTHER

WHEN WORKING WITH CLIENTS IN THE SALON”

LYDIA WOLFE FROM TONY WOOD HAIRDRESSING, THE

STYLISTS’ FAVOURITE AWARD WINNER IN THE NEW TALENT

CATEGORY AT GLOBAL ZOOM ’17

“THE COLOR ZOOM EXPERIENCE HAS MADE ME MORE

PASSIONATE ABOUT WHAT I DO AND I LOVE THAT I CAN

BRING ELEMENTS OF WHAT I LEARNT BACK TO MY SALON.

PEOPLE ARE ALSO MORE AWARE OF MY SALON AS A BRAND”

CAROLINE BRAND FROM ORACLE HAIR AND BEAUTY, BRONZE

WINNER IN THE CREATIVE CATEGORY AT GLOBAL ZOOM ’17

CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL

PARTNER – For stylists who are currently working or have

been working with Goldwell as a freelancer, trainer or

active representative in the past two years

All national gold winners qualify for the live final at

Global Zoom, which this year is being held in Toronto,

Canada. National winners can expect to raise their profile

and take their career to the next level, with heaps of

promotion in the press and online. The global winner

announced at Global Zoom will get a career and image

boost befitting a recognised top international stylist.

They’ll get publicity in national and global press and in

an extensive social media campaign, as well as becoming

part of the Color Zoom Creative Team that creates a

future Color Zoom Collection.

TO ENTER

DOWNLOAD YOUR

BRIEFING KIT AT

GOLDWELL.CO.UK/

COLOR-ZOOM-18

Lydia Wolfe with Goldwell’s John Moroney

THE NEXT STEPS

• Download your briefing kit at goldwell.co.uk/color-zoom-18

• Check out the current collection, element∆l, and make it your own

• Choose a model and the styling

• Create your look and do a photoshoot

• Fill out and send back the entry form by 31 May

• National winners will be announced in July 2018 and Global Zoom

takes place in Toronto on 30 September 2018

Keep up-to-date with the latest competition news by following @GoldwellUK

#Takethechallenge, #Colorzoom on Instagram, Twitter and Facebook

CREATIVE HEAD 43


2017

THE END

OF THE

YEAR

SHOW

WELCOME TO OUR REVIEW OF THE YEAR – WE’VE CONDENSED

ALL THE MOST IMPORTANT ACTION OF THE PAST 12 MONTHS

INTO BITE-SIZED SECTIONS SO THAT YOU CAN GET YOUR

FIX OF THE TRENDS, BRANDS, PEOPLE, PRODUCTS AND

MOMENTS THAT MADE A DIFFERENCE IN 2017

HEY, BIG SPENDERS!

BIG BUSINESS MAKES MOVES

Coty Inc, which in 2016 bought Wella

Professionals and 42 of P&G’s other hair,

perfume and make-up businesses for

$12.5bn (£9.7bn), doubled down with a

£420m takeover of ghd, cementing its

newfound presence in hair.

Meanwhile Henkel acquired

Shiseido’s North American

professional hair care

business – adding brands

such as Joico and Zotos

Professional to its portfolio.

GREAT EXPECTATIONS

SOPHIA HILTON – NOT ANOTHER SALON

When she went to get her hair done in West

London she didn’t feel posh enough, and when

she went to the East End she didn’t feel cool

enough. So, at the age of 27, Sophia Hilton

launched Not Another Salon on London’s Brick

Lane, complete with Wagon Wheels, GameBoys

and a ‘no judgement’ policy designed to take

the fear out of going to the salon.

What happened next was remarkable.

Sophia’s Hidden Rainbow hair became an

internet sensation, a 55-second video about

the salon team went viral on Facebook, 184,000

Instagram followers have signed up to see

more of Not Another Salon’s high-end bleeds,

and there was a three-month waiting list for

an appointment. This year Sophia led the

charge on a “colour pandemic”, articulating

a growing malaise among colourists that

retouched images on Instagram create

unrealistic expectations about what’s possible

in a normal salon appointment. “Not only am

I coming up against those challenges in the

salon, but all over the world as I run a colour

academy across six countries,” she

says. “Everywhere I see the same

issues: hairdressers struggling to

keep their heads above water.”

By speaking out, Sophia

hopes more colourists will

feel empowered to raise their

voices on the subject, too.

“I’d like to see more salons

educating their clients as

often as possible across

social media,” she

says. “I believe we

have the power

to create enough

content to change

this and teach

clients about the

realities of what

is going on.”

Take that,

world!

44


Bruce Masefiield Hair

SPLIT DECISIONS

PARTING WAYS IN 2017

When Josh Wood moved to Redken

in the spring of 2017 (exclusively

revealed in Creative HEAD), he ended

an official alliance with Wella that had

lasted a decade. In his new role as

Redken’s global color creative director,

Wood has teamed up with session god

Guido Palau to set trends that will

influence looks worldwide. The new

partnership was celebrated in a

packed-out gathering of Creative

HEAD’s The Coterie. In other

moves, Bruce Masefield quit

as European creative director at

Sassoon to open his own salon

in Edinburgh; Hereford’s

Peter Prosser retired

after 53 years in the

industry; and Angelo

Vallillo left Zullo &

Holland to launch a

salon/art space with

former RUSH creative,

Dale Hearne. More

details to come…

SEE

KY WILSON

SPEAK AT

25 MARCH AT THE PARK

PLAZA, LONDON

WUNDERKIND OF THE YEAR

KY WILSON, THE SOCIAL

Is there anybody who hasn’t heard of Ky Wilson? The 28-yearold

self-confessed loudmouth is setting the industry alight

with his pop-up salons, creative collaborations and forthright

opinions (social media being a particular favourite: “Stop

trying to be so f**king famous”). It’s an approach that has

seen his profile grow exponentially – as a blogger, barber,

session stylist and creative thinker, culminating in him being

named Creative HEAD’s It Guy of 2017. From cutting hair

on the streets of London to Northern Soul dancing onstage –

Ky’s done it all, with style. We can’t wait to see what’s next.

2017

2017

WINNER

THE IT GUY

45


Luke Benson

2017

THE END

OF THE

YEAR

SHOW

JOBS FOR THE BOYS

(AND GIRLS?)

A GREAT BARBER DEBATE

We all know that male grooming is booming, with more

barbershops opening on the British high street right now

than any other kind of independent business. But when

Creative HEAD’s Coterie club debated the changing

needs of the male client, we had no idea we’d cause such

a stir. Panellist Johnny Baba’s controversial approach to

barbershop culture started it – throughout his five Barber

Barber shops, he operates a ‘no women’ policy (including

staff) so, he says, “men can feel comfortable being men.”

According to Johnny, many of his customers are still

“traditional men”, with minimal interest in other grooming

practices. Fellow panellist and male grooming expert Luke

Benson disagreed. “Masculinity isn’t one thing,” he argued.

“Johnny, I bet loads of your ‘traditionally masculine’ clients

shave their balls and you just don’t know it!”

“That mirror my dad looked into and knew he was ‘a man’

has shattered now,” said grooming journalist Lee Kynaston,

citing Unilever’s marketing U-turn for mega-brand Lynx

as an example of the mainstream rejecting ‘laddish’

stereotypes. “One of the best things I’ve read about modern

masculinity is by artist Grayson Perry, who said: ‘We need to

think of masculinity like a piece of equipment. Some men,

like soldiers, need it all the time, others might need it at the

weekend and others not at all.’”

PEOPLE POWER

GENDER FLUIDITY

Maybelline’s Big Shot mascara campaign features a model with

impeccable eye make-up, thick eyelashes and… well-groomed

stubble. In 2017 Manny Gutierrez became just the second man to

be chosen as the face for a make-up advertisement (the first being

James Charles for Covergirl). “Make-up is genderLESS and has no

rules,” Manny tells his millions of social media followers.

That men can be the face of a global make-up brand and that

John Lewis can remove boy’s and girl’s labels from children’s

clothing in a bid to reduce “gender stereotypes” underlines how

diversity is seen as increasingly powerful. It’s making itself

felt in our industry, too. Gender fluid model Sara Cummings

was featured as a brand muse for Redken; Fudge Professional

partnered with session stylist Lisa Farrall on work

celebrating traditionally feminine-targeted mousse

on a beautifully androgynous model, and KMS

celebrated a ‘genderless grooming’ campaign.

Meanwhile, gender-neutral pricing in

Not Another Salon (“I’ve got girls with

skinheads and boys with hair down to their

backsides, so to me, it’s clear. I should be

pricing on the job – not what’s in their

pants,” says owner Sophia Hilton) and RoCo

in

Derry may well make traditional pricing based

on gender feel out out-dated.

Not Another Salon

46


PURSUIT OF

PERFECTION

AWARDS

AND THE WINNERS ARE…

LARRY KING,

SOUTH KENSINGTON

BARN//IT, MANCHESTER

RADIO LONDON HAIR

SALON AND GALLERY,

KINGS CROSS

SKYLER LONDON,

WANDSWORTH

TINT, LEEDS

HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO YOU!

Electric

Hairdressing

Tangle

Teezer

ghd

Spirit Hair Company

Obsessions

Salon and Spa

Westrow

Charles

Worthington

Crazy Color

Kent Brushes


2017

THE END

OF THE

YEAR

SHOW

#COLORFULHAIR by L’Oréal Professionnel

SPECTACULAR COLOUR

FROM NATURAL TO SUPERNATURAL

Prismatic, electric, glow-in-the-dark… in 2017, colour trends shifted from

natural to supernatural. From Bowie Blorange to dark denim; neon-brights

to icy whites; shades of peach and salmon sushi through to balayage in

every colour under the rainbow – 2017 was the year when non-natural

hair colour came out of the DIY closet and hit the mainstream. Kenra

ambassador and YouTube sensation Guy Tang even came up with UV hair

colour – that’s right, colour that glows when it’s under black light (surely a

must for any club kid).

Big brand names happily fuelled the trend – L’Oréal Professionnel’s

#COLORFULHAIR in-salon semi-permanent colour service offered clients

thousands of colour permutations, and City Beats from Redken delivered 12

vibrant shades inspired by the streets of NYC with model Chloe Nørgaard.

With fantasy shades in full swing, it wasn’t long before people turned to

science-fiction. Metallic shades in cool silvers and iridescent purples gave

us a glimpse of the future, with Majirel Metals by L’Oréal Professionnel,

Color Intensity Metallic Muse collection by Joico and Crazy Color veered

(slightly) away from its bold roots with its four high-shine metallic shades.

Even punk favourites Manic Panic unveiled a professional-only line of

colour. It’s official – the unicorn is alive and well…

THE BIG ISSUES

WORKING CONDITIONS

Hairdressing remains one of the most

vibrant and creative industries in which

to work. But there are key challenges

that will continue to set the agenda.

The first is recruitment; An NHF

survey revealed four out of every five

hair and beauty employers were finding

it ‘difficult’ or ‘very difficult’ to find and

recruit qualified and experienced staff,

especially in more rural locations.

Wage bills were also a worry: the

biggest single cost for salons which

were also hit with the additional

costs of pension auto-enrolment,

new compulsory contributions to

apprenticeship training and increases to

National Minimum and Living Wages.

Finally, self-employment continues

to be a growing trend, with the NHF’s

statistics showing 57 per cent of those

working in hairdressing and barbering

are now self-employed. Because staff

carry so many additional employmentrelated

costs, businesses are finding it

increasingly hard to compete.

48


THE YEAR OF

JOHNNY BABA

LUKE BENSON

JESSICA DINER

ERROL DOUGLAS MBE

JOSHUA GOLDSWORTHY

SARAH GUILD

SAMANTHA HILLERBY

LEE KYNASTON

CHRISTEL LUNDQVIST

NICOLA MOULTON

GUIDO PALAU

LIZ PUGH

MATT ROBINSON

OLLY SMITH

JODY TAYLOR

KY WILSON

JOSH WOOD

With special thanks to our Coterie

event sponsors: American Crew,

BaByliss PRO, Redken and TIGI

49


Kate Moss for Vogue, by Nick Knight

Kate Moss by Patrick Demarchelier

Sam with Linda Evangelista, by Laspata Decaro

Tilda Swinton for Italian Vogue, by Craig McDean

Sam with Vogue’s Edward Enninful

MY 2017, BY SAM MCKNIGHT

A YEAR IN THE LIFE OF AN ICON

“It has been such a momentous year for me. I had my ‘Hair by Sam McKnight’ exhibition

at Somerset House – I was incredibly honoured that my work would be the subject of an

exhibition. At first I was a little apprehensive – did I have enough content to warrant a full

exhibition? Curator Shonagh Marshall was able to go through my archive and pull out

some great pieces that told a story spanning 40 years. The look and immersive experience

of the exhibition was designed by the brilliant Michael Howells, with whom I have worked

for many years on numerous shoots for Vogue. I was overwhelmed by the generosity of

the photographers, designers and magazines that I have work with whom contributed so

much to the exhibition, including Chanel, Vivienne Westwood and other creatives.

“What became evident was how important hair can be in the making of creative images

and I think the exhibition and the accompanying book, Hair by Sam McKnight, went

some way to achieve this, and to elevate the hair industry as a whole. I’ve been blown

away by the great response that I’ve had to the exhibition, especially from hairdressers;

the messages of support have been incredibly humbling and very much appreciated.

“Meanwhile, at the same time as planning and executing the book and exhibition,

I was working away behind the scenes on creating my own hair products. Again, this

was an entirely new journey for me and I learnt so much in the process, from how to

formulate a product to packaging, distribution and beyond. I decided to launch with

four styling products and these hit the shelves in Liberty of London in June, and are

now stocked on my own site and at Net-A-Porter. The range is a culmination of all my

years in hairdressing, I think it was Vogue who called it ‘Sam in a can’, and these styling

products are my go-to backstage favourites. I was determined to create a range that could

help women to get the hair they want, that they can easily do themselves and from the

feedback I’ve had so far, I think I’ve just about nailed it. When I was developing

50


Fendi S/S17

Karlie Kloss for Vogue, by Patrick Demarchelier

2017

THE END

OF THE

YEAR

SHOW

Pages from Hair by Sam McKnight, published by Rizzoli

the range I was fortunate enough to work with an amazing perfumer, Lyn Harris, and

she created a beautiful fragrance based on my garden in the rain, which I have used

across the range. My team and I first used the products at Fashion Week – the signature

scent fragranced the backstage area and everyone commented on how wonderful and

fresh it was, which was a lovely bonus! Right now, I’m developing new products to add

to the range...

“All of this has taken place against the backdrop of my day-to-day work as a session

stylist and I am so lucky to work with such a remarkable bunch of talented people.

Fashion Week continues to inspire me and Team McKnight, my brilliant crew who work

tirelessly supporting me through shoots and especially the shows. I’ve worked with

Chanel now for nine years, and the genius that is Karl Lagerfeld always gives us fresh

challenges in a new way each season at Chanel and Fendi, and I love the fact that after all

these years, I’m still learning.

“I can’t end without talking about awards. This year, my Hair by Sam McKnight range

has been nominated for and won six beauty awards including Tatler, Grazia, Powder,

Glamour, Harper’s Bazaar and Marie Claire, which I find mind-boggling seeing as it was

only launched in June. And then of course, receiving the Hair Icon award at this year’s

Creative HEAD Most Wanted Awards was the icing on the cake. It’s such a wonderful

feeling to be recognised by my peers and there was so much love, support and passion in

evidence that night.

“It’s been a rollercoaster year for me, that’s for sure, but two key things have kept me

strong. The wonderful Team McKnight, which has been behind me every step of the way

and to whom I am enormously thankful. The other is my garden, and for those of you who

follow me on Instagram (@sammcknight1), you’ll know that this is where you’ll find me

when I’m not working. I get home, open the garden door and I am transported to

a different world, where I can retreat, relax and spend time

thinking about what I hope to achieve in 2018.”

SEE SAM

MCKNIGHT AT

25 MARCH AT THE PARK

PLAZA, LONDON

Gisele Bündchen by Alexei Hay

51


WELL

HELLO,

2018!

LOOKING GOOD! HERE’S WHAT TO GET

EXCITED ABOUT IN THE YEAR AHEAD

The Maxi Perm by Hershesons

THE PERM IS BACK

REHABILITATION OF A CLASSIC

Thirty years is a long time for a style to suffer for crimes

it committed back in the ’80s. Yes, there were some

unfortunate moments – Kevin Keegan springs to mind –

but Cher, Julia Roberts, Jennifer Beals and even Justin

Timberlake proved that a perm can be cool and certainly

no barrier to global megastar status. And now the perm is

coming back, says the team at Hershesons.

The trick is to forget everything you already knew

about perms. The new Maxi Perm – wound on long rubber

rods rather than perm rollers and delivering full-on,

unapologetically big and lively curls like Carrie Bradshaw

in the first series of Sex and the City – looks great with a

simple, longer shape and needs no mousse to style it – oils

and creams help the hair feel softer and more believable.

And then there’s the braid perm. Designed by Hershesons

technician Lily Bunting-Branch, the 2018 perm is for those

with fine, lifeless, hard-to-manage hair. She says: “We

use traditional perming lotions with high-grade organic

formulations that are kinder to the hair – but apply them to

braids versus rollers or rods. The result is super-soft loose

waves that alter the texture of the hair, making it look fuller

and thicker and easier to style.”

52


HOB Salons

A BETTER YOU

GO BACK TO SCHOOL

Whether you choose education or a fresh opportunity

with another salon, 2018 is the year to better

yourself… and there are plenty of chances to do just

that. No time to leave the salon and hit a classroom?

Head online to Access by L’Oréal Professionnel

(lorealaccess.com/uk). Access is the brand’s all-new

online learning hub that allows you to learn whenever

you want, wherever you are. Access enables you to

learn at a place and time that is convenient for you

and it’s available to all salons!

If you do have time to leave the salon, you must

visit the new RUSH Academy in London’s Covent

Garden. And if you’re looking to open your horizons

and experience new opportunities – from franchising

to stage work – but you want the support of a

successful group behind you, HOB Salons is on the

look out for talented individuals.

TAKING THE INDUSTRY SERIOUSLY…

Despite contributing a cool £17 billion a year

to the British economy, there has been no

comprehensive representation of the specific

needs and voices of the beauty industry.

As a result, we are an industry that is still

not taken seriously, and which is facing the

biggest recruitment crisis in its history.

Now a team of high-profile industry

figures has established the British Beauty

Council, with the aim of ensuring the beauty

industry and its innovation, reputation and

education can be recognised and valued at

all levels: in government, through the wider

economy and by consumers.

Spearheaded by BeautyMART’s Millie

Kendall MBE and Anna-Marie Solowij,

alongside beauty journalist Kate Shapland,

the British Beauty Council board includes

Talk PR chief executive Jane Boardman,

Creative HEAD publisher Catherine

Handcock and This Works founder Kathy

Phillips, supported by expert-led groups

representing all sectors.

“Our priority in 2018 is to improve the

reputation of the beauty industry as a

profession, ensuring we attract a steady

stream of high-quality candidates in the

future,” says Catherine Handcock.

See more at britishbeautycouncil.com

ONE TO WATCH…

PROSTYLES HAIR EXTENSIONS

ProStyles – the extensions brand that

hails from the original and iconic Antenna

salon in Kensington – is throwing down

the gauntlet in 2018, with new owners, a

new logo and a new campaign. And we

love it! Creative HEAD favourite (and

former It List double winner) Leigh

Keates teamed up with extensions expert

Stephanie Stevenson to create these

brilliant images that showcase the range

of colours and the natural movement

that you can expect from ProStyles’

synthetic and real hair. Already stocked

in more than 400 salons across the UK

and Ireland, expect lots more from this

exciting brand… check out Creative

HEAD’s February issue to see more from

Leigh and Stephanie’s fantastic shoot!

ProStyles

53


Cool Girl Waves

WELL

HELLO,

2018!

UNDER THE INFLUENCE

ZOË IRWIN LIFTS THE LID ON HER NEW PROJECT

“I first developed The Influence Project to educate

stylists on references, style tribes, eras and trend

movements, and it’s a concept that I’ve been

teaching for the ghd Style Squad teams.

“The more I realised how little was understood

by hairdressers about trends, such as early ’90s

hip-hop (which was being referenced constantly in

magazines they aspired to shoot with), the more it

spurred me on to create fresh education to enable

them to work with the references that are given in

the fashion world.

“This is a collaboration with Helen Charlton-

Jones and Lauren Smith from That Girl That Edits,

and we've brought the project to life by creating

a series of films that show a fun, youthful look

at different styles and trends. Each film takes a

different influence and explores it visually with a

‘how to’, and slips into the world of the character.

The videos were shot simply and in bare studios.

“Each look is chosen by its different influence.

There are looks that have influenced a decade of

editorial like Cali Skate Girl in my Cool Girl Waves

film. We’re always talking about ‘undone surfy

waves’ in fashion, so we brought in a skater girl

and looked at the influence of the hair in detail.

“Cross Braiding shows influence from the

session stylist greats… it’s about one hairdresser

being influenced by another. This is the hair from

a Maison Margiela show by Eugene Souleiman,

possibly one of the most copied and influential

hairdressers of my time. It was one of the most

reposted images from the shows, and I thought I

bet hundreds of hairdressers would love to know

how to attempt this!

“There are new ideas like Punk Stitching,

influenced directly by fashion. We were sewing

words onto our T-shirts, why not customise our

hair? So you see the punk girl and we sew the

words “not dead” into her hair.

“Then there are session tricks, like adding

fringes to hair, that I knew would be fun to film.

For example, the Gucci fringe in upcoming Retro

Mundane finds its heritage in ’80s American high

school hair. I hope this project excites hairdressers

to look further into the references of a style.”

Punk Stitching

54


Cross Braiding

KEEP IT FRESH

ZOË’S TIPS ON LOOKING FOR INFLUENCES TO UPDATE YOUR WORK

1. Know what’s going on around you – it’s easy these days with

so much information available. You can sign up for daily emails

from sites such as Refinery29, Broadly, WGSN, Business of

Fashion, and you will then get a daily feed of concepts and ideas.

2. Exhibitions create huge influence in trends, so make sure

you go to all of the key ones – take your team and build a project

around it. Or get together a great film list and turn it into an art

team project – this is when exciting things happen.

3. At the end of the day it’s about opening up the minds

of others. Artist Jean-Michel Basquiat said: “Influence is not

influence, it is simply someone’s idea going through my new

mind”. The more you look at influences, the more your mind

will be creative. Change your daily social feed and go out and

view as much as possible.

'90s Supermodel

SEE MORE from Zoe Irwin and

The Infl uence Project online at

creativeheadmag.com/education

55


WELL

HELLO,

2018!

LAUNCH PAD

FIRE UP THE INNOVATION ROCKETS – THESE ARE THE NINE NEW RETAIL AND

SERVICE IDEAS THAT HAVE US ALL HOT UNDER THE COLLAR

Promising unicorn colours that fade

true to tone, Color Fresh Create from

Wella Professionals delivers 12 shades

(and one clear) of direct dyes that coat

the hair and last up to 20 washes. The

rainbow is real…

In-salon service; wella.com

New to the UK, Celeb Luxury is a

two-strong ‘colour insurance’, with

Gem Lites for traditional colour shades

and Viral for bolder hues. Colorwash

with Colorposit technology is the

centrepiece, for bold colour results.

RRP from £16.95, salon-success.co.uk

Skincare continues to

influence the world of

hair, and we’re here for

it! In February, Redken

is unveiling a world

first in professional hair

care – the All Soft Mega

Recovery Sheet Mask,

perfect for women who

struggle with dry, puffy

and fluffy hair!

RRP £12, redken.co.uk

Schwarzkopf Professional has

got three A-list colourists and

three hair influencers to create

six IGORA ROYAL colours

as part of a #RoyalTakeOver.

The UK’s Lesley Jennison

and Brazilian colour

specialist Jean Philippe

Santos are up first…

In-salon service,

schwarzkopfprofessional.co.uk

Redken is a busy bee –

Shades EQ has four new

pastel shades and two

new silver shades fronted

by Vogue’s Sarah Harris.

With technique driving

the market, Redken is also

launching a Shades EQ

Blending Bar in salons

nationwide, to offer

trending techniques.

In-salon service, redken.co.uk

Offer tailor-made

highlights in half

the time with new

Instant Highlights

from L’Oréal

Professionnel, its

first professional

heat-boosted

lightening system

that will halve

service time, out in

February.

In-salon service,

lorealprofessionnel.

Take inspiration from skin care’s

‘multi-masking’ trend is The Circle

Chronicles from Davines, a line of five

scalp and hair masks designed to solve

specific needs. Detoxify the scalp, but

moisturise the lengths? It can all be

done with these cute sachets.

RRP £7.90 each, davines.com

Coming this spring, Pure Pigments

from Goldwell will help you build a

brilliant glow for your colour clients,

delivering an almost holographic

effect. It’s lots of fun and really tests

your creativity.

In-salon service, goldwell.com

The boffins at Affinage have created

something for control freaks –

enter Colour Your Way in either

powder or liquid to thicken with

no impact on lift or pH.

In-salon service, affinage.com

56


CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL

YOUR FUTURE AWAITS

HOB SALONS IS DEDICATED TO HELPING YOU ACHIEVE YOUR CAREER GOALS. WHETHER YOU WANT TO

WIN AWARDS, OWN A SALON OR TRY YOUR HAND AT STAGE WORK, JOINING HOB WILL GET YOU THERE

THOSE OF US that are lucky enough to work in this

amazing industry know that hairdressing is not just a job;

it’s a doorway to some of the best career opportunities and

experiences in the world.

But whether you’ve got a goal in mind or you need some

inspiration as to where your hairdressing career could

take you, where do you start? HOB Salons is the perfect

springboard. It has a solid track record of encouraging and

developing its staff to become the very best that they can be –

and now the salon group wants you!

WHAT ARE YOUR CAREER GOALS?

● Perhaps you want to own your own salon?

● Be an in-demand salon star?

● Travel the world?

● Win awards?

● Educate future talent?

JOIN HOB!

HOB SALONS WOULD LOVE

TO HEAR FROM ANY NEW OR

ESTABLISHED TALENT, EMAIL

JOBS@HOBSALONS.COM

Developing talent and helping people to achieve their goals is

part of the HOB Salons company ethos – so whatever you’re

aiming for, you know that HOB can help you achieve it.

WE ACHIEVED OUR GOALS!

THE MANAGERS

SIMON BARKER & LAURA GLEN,

SALON MANAGERS

Simon joined HOB Salons as a stylist in 1999

Laura joined as a receptionist in 2004

“Although we joined at diff erent

times, we both had the goal of

achieving manager status and,

with the support of HOB, we’ve

worked our way to managing

one of the largest and busiest

salons in the group, which

we’re very proud of.”

THE COLOUR CREATIVE

SEAN NOLAN,

HEAD OF TECHNICAL

Joined HOB as a senior colour tech in 2012

“I started my career with

another salon, but HOB

had the opportunities for

development I wanted.

Through the HOB Jamm

training programme, I grew my

portfolio and am now head of

technical for all the collections,

shows and stage work.”

THE AWARD WINNER

JAKE UNGER,

SENIOR EDUCATOR

Joined HOB Salons as an apprentice in 2008

“After working my way up

from apprentice to senior

educator at HOB, I’ve been

given the opportunity to win

international trophies, teach at

the Academy and present on

stages all over the world. It’s

been hard work, but 100 per

cent worth it.”

THE SALON STAR

AMELIA EVANS,

STYLE DIRECTOR

Joined HOB Salons as a stylist in 2015

“Soon after joining, I attended

a HOB Build Your

Column course, which

helped me to become one of

the most in-demand stylists

here. I also enjoy teaching

in the Academy, but get my

main buzz from making clients

feel fabulous.”

Achieve your career goals with HOB Salons. To find out more, visit hobsalons.com

CREATIVE HEAD

57


EXPRESS

YOURSELF!

IF 2017 TAUGHT YOUR CLIENTS ANYTHING, IT’S TO

NOT BE AFRAID TO EXPERIMENT WITH THEIR HAIR

COLOUR. NOW THE LAUNCH OF NEW COLOR FRESH

CREATE FROM WELLA PROFESSIONALS MEANS THEY

CAN DARE TO BE DIFFERENT – AND ENJOY FULL

CREATIVITY AND FREEDOM TO CHANGE – AS THEY

JUMP INTO THE NEW YEAR

FUTURE YELLOW, HYPER CORAL, NEVERSEEN GREEN. MEET THE GATEWAY

SHADES OF THE NEW HAIR COLOUR SPECTRUM. UNTIL RECENTLY, SALON

COLOURISTS HAD TO CUSTOM-CREATE SHADES LIKE THESE, BUT AS DEMAND

HAS GROWN, SO HAS INNOVATION. NEW COLOR FRESH CREATE FROM COTY’S

WELLA PROFESSIONALS IS A SEMI-PERMANENT COLOUR RANGE THAT NOT ONLY

DELIVERS BOLD SHADES RIGHT OUT OF THE TUBE, BUT THEY FADE TRUE TO

TONE, SO YOU CAN GET REALLY, REALLY CREATIVE WITH YOUR SALON COLOUR.

CASE IN POINT: OPAL BALAYAGE, HOLOGRAPHIC FADES, AND, WELL, YOU NAME IT.

JUST LOOK AT THE COLOUR MAGIC FROM THESE FIVE #COLORCREATORS!

58 CREATIVE HEAD


Before

Pre-lightened with Blondor freelights + 12% & Wellaplex. Color Fresh Create:

All neat: High Magenta, Ultra Purple, Super Petrol, Hyper Coral.

CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL

#colorcreators

CLAYDE BAUMANN

WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOUR CLUB MEMBER

If I could work with one person, it would be…

Karl Lagerfeld. He’s my fashion hero. I love

his taste and style and I admire the way he has

extended everything he does to his personal life.

The one piece of advice I would pass on to a

young colourist…

On the one hand, make sure you stay true

to everything you have learned. But in

remembering it all don’t let anyone mould

you into something you are not.

The skill colourists should learn that isn’t

about hair…

The power of observation and the ability to stay

aware of your surroundings. So many people

walk down the road and never look above their

immediate eye line.

COLOR FRESH CREATE IS…

“Fun, innovative

and colourful!”

CLAYDE BAUMANN

The most colourful place I’ve been to is…

My home country – South Africa. It has every

possible climate and natural setting you can

imagine. We have forest, jungle, beaches,

deserts, farmland, cornfields… it’s so diverse.

The colour that best encapsulates me is…

Yellow. I identify yellow as an energetic, positive

colour that gives energy and happiness. It’s a

very good carrier of those emotions and I am

drawn to that.

CREATIVE HEAD

59


Freehand painted Blondor Freelights +9% & Wellaplex. Illumina Color 6/16, 5/02, 5/81.

Color Fresh Create: All neat: Super Petrol, Never Seen Green, New Blue.

#colorcreators

JAYSON GRAY

WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOUR CLUB MEMBER

Three places that are guaranteed sources

of inspiration…

1. I am always very happy browsing in old

book shops.

2. My partner’s sewing box. He’s a menswear

designer and when he’s placing layers of fabric

together it’s great to watch.

3. Kitchen shops! I’ve got an obsession with

crockery, pots and pans, and I love chrome and

glass and anything that has a dispensary vibe.

The one piece of advice I would pass on to a

young colourist…

Always look under the door mat. Don’t be afraid

of who you are and always be the maverick,

never the victim.

The skill colourists should learn that isn’t

about hair…

Mathematics. When you really think about it,

maths and science dominate colour.

The formula to my colour career so far…

Free expression + strategy + mathematics = me!

COLOR FRESH CREATE IS…

“Bold, beautiful

and brilliant!”

JAYSON GRAY

The colour that best encapsulates me is…

Grey, of course! Any shade of grey. If you are born

with a colour as your name, you must embrace it.

Before

60 CREATIVE HEAD


CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL

Before

#colorcreators

ROBERT EATON

WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOUR CLUB MEMBER

My wish at the end of the rainbow…

Honestly, it’s very simple – just happiness with

my family.

Three places that are guaranteed sources

of inspiration…

1. My salon. My team are so creative and never

fail to inspire me.

2. Travel is a great way to boost my energy

and generate new fresh ideas – there isn’t

one country that particularly inspires me, just

anywhere new and interesting!

3. From a business perspective, I love being in

amazing hotels and restaurants because we can

really learn from the way other industries treat

their customers.

If I could work with one person, it would be…

Trevor Sorbie MBE. He’s a legend.

The skill colourists should learn that isn’t

about hair…

Communication. In salon work, getting a clients’

hair colour completely bespoke and right for

them is a case of talking the same language

and understanding exactly what they want from

their visit. One person’s interpretation of ‘light

blonde’ is will be completely different to the

next person’s.

The colour that best encapsulates me is…

Blue. It’s a strong but calm colour, and I like that.

COLOR FRESH CREATE IS…

Creative, flexible

and exciting!”

ROBERT EATON

CREATIVE HEAD 61

Pre-lightened with Blondor Cream & 6% + Wellaplex. Toner 10/16, 9/16 Koleston Perfect & Pastel. Color Fresh Create:

Mixed 1:1 with Tomorrow Clear – Nu-Dist Pink. Mixed 1:30 with Tomorrow Clear – Next Red & High Magenta.


COLOR FRESH CREATES

THE LOWDOWN

A TRUE CREATIVE SEMI-PERMANENT COLOUR CREAM, WHICH

FADES TRUE TO TONE OVER TIME AND PASTELISES DURING

EACH WASH, WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOR FRESH CREATE

LASTS UP TO 20 WASHES, GRADUALLY FADING INTO BEAUTIFUL

SOFT PASTEL HUES THANKS TO CAREFULLY SELECTED DYES

THAT AVOID AN OFF-TONE FADE. ITS AMMONIA-, FRAGRANCE-

AND PEROXIDE-FREE PRECISION CREAM FORMULA ENABLES

CONTROLLED APPLICATION AND UNLIMITED COLOURING

TECHNIQUES, MEANING YOU CAN MAKE YOUR CLIENTS FEEL

AS UNIQUE AS YOUR LATEST CREATION!

62


63

CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL


Pre-lightened with Blondor Soft Blonde Cream + 6% and Wellaplex.

Toned with Color Touch Instamatics Muted Mauve 1.9%. Color Fresh

Create: Mixed 1:1 with Tomorrow Clear – Ultra Purple & Pure Violet.

Before

COLOR FRESH CREATE IS…

“Cool, playful

and dynamic!”

CLAIRE CHELL

#colorcreators

CLAIRE CHELL

WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOUR CLUB MEMBER

Three places that are guaranteed sources

of inspiration…

1. Africa – it is so colourful in so many ways.

2. A colour run. I love running and a colour

run is when you run through an explosion of

colour powders. By the end of the run you are

completely covered!

3. Milan Fashion Week. They don’t play it safe in

Milan and are more likely to deliver the shock

factor. It’s definitely a place to predict trends.

I couldn’t work without…

Wella Professionals Illumina Color. It is the core

product for my classic clientele.

If I could work with one person, it would be…

It would honestly be all of the Colour Club. I am

so lucky that I get the luxury of working with my

icons – they are all incredible colourists.

The one piece of advice I would pass on

to a young colourist…

Never lose your colour identity.

Be true to yourself.

The most colourful place

I’ve been to is…

Sri Lanka. There was a big

festival when I was there last with

costumes, flames and elephants –

the vibe was incredible.

64


COLOR FRESH CREATE IS…

“Fresh, innovative

and free!”

SEAN NOLAN

Freehand painted Blondor Freelights and 12% + Wellaplex.

Roots: 7/43, 6/37, 8/05 combined with 6. Color Fresh Create: Mixed

1:20 with Tomorrow Clear – Nu-Dist Pink, Next Red & Hyper Coral.

#colorcreators

SEAN NOLAN

WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOUR CLUB MEMBER

Three places that are guaranteed sources

of inspiration…

1. Southbank in London. I go there all the

time and on each visit I take inspiration from

something different. It is so exciting and vibrant.

2. Berlin. There’s a real sense of the past meets

the future in Berlin, and I think that’s really

important at the moment.

3. Fader magazine and website. I feel like young

urban multiculturalism is where it’s at right now.

The one piece of advice I would pass on to a

young colourist…

Being a good colourist means learning from the

mistakes that you make.

The skill colourists should learn that isn’t

about hair…

An insight into cultural history, because it gives

you a reference. It is something a lot of people

don’t have: the ability to delve deeper into a

concept or idea and develop it.

The most colourful place I’ve been to is…

Grenada. The people there are such colourful

characters – in a very understated way.

The colour that best encapsulates me is…

Right now at this stage of my life – pink! It’s a

colour that you either love or hate, and it’s very

transient. Pink can be all out and very bold, or

soft and subtle.

CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL

Before

For more about Wella Professionals Color Fresh CREATE, call 0845 7045775 or visit wella.com

65


Casey Coleman

Johanna Cree-Brown

Adam Slama

Zoë Irwin

HAPPY NEW YEAR!

JOIN CREATIVE HEAD AND AN ALL-STAR LINE-UP ON MONDAY

29 JANUARY AS THE COTERIE DEBATES THE POWER AND INFLUENCE OF

CREATIVE RITUALS IN HAIR, PHOTOGRAPHY, FILM, FASHION, AND BEYOND

FEATURING:

CASEY COLEMAN

JOHANNA CREE-BROWN

HARRY EVANS

ZOË IRWIN

LAN NGUYEN-GREALIS

ADAM SLAMA

& ROGER SPY


JANUARY

R

RY

JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2018

/FEBRUARY

RY

R

/MARCH

2018

MISTER QUARTERLY


THE FACES, THE PLACES, THE NEWS, THE VIEWS

Mr. Q

welcomes you…

…to a New Year, and plenty of opportunities to groom

your 2018 into something very special. While we have

some stunningly raw and real finishes from the legendary

Paul Merritt, we also shine a light on the community

work of modern barbers, speaking with the Lions Barber

Collective’s Tom Chapman and Mister Robinson’s

Barbershop hero, Matt Robinson. Both of these gents will

be on stage at Salon Smart 2018, too.

GET SMART

WHAT ALL BARBERS SHOULD DO THIS QUARTER

1.

Uganda, Nigeria, Zimbabwe

See: Barber Shop Chronicles, a

dynamic play at the National

Theatre that leaps from a barber

shop in Peckham to Ghana,

and South Africa. Be quick, the

show finishes on 9 January!

nationaltheatre.org.uk

2.

3.

Get creative: The Master of

Men’s Grooming Multi-Tool

course from American Crew

teaches you to create with a shear,

clipper and razor. 27 February,

Leeds, americancrew.com

Visit: Salon Smart to see a

quartet of experts discuss the

booming men’s market, including

Most Wanted Male Grooming

Expert, Jonathan Andrew,

and Ruffians’ Andrew Cannon

(pictured). 25 to 26 March,

creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart

YOU NEED

TO MEET…

Describe yourself in five words:

Driven, busy, creative, adhoc, dad.

What’s exciting you about British

barbering right now?

That hair is getting longer again and

it’s becoming all about the texture

and movement.

If I could change one thing…

It would be how the NVQ

process works, with funding and

apprenticeship length, for people

coming into the industry. The

amount of time given to complete

the qualifications against the length

of contract we can offer.

Everything changed for me when…

I called Fish Hairdressing in 1991 and

asked for a job, which started me on

my career journey. Soho in the ’90s

was amazing and scary.

The barber who inspired me the

most is…

My first boss, Guert Renzenbrink.

JOE MILLS

Joe and Co, Soho

ON THE COVER

Hair by Paul Merritt for ARROJO NYC

The man was an amazing cutter

and made me look at shape and

form. To think of hair as a moving,

living thing… he had an almost

architectural view of hair.

Who else should we get

to know…

Jody Taylor, Ross Parlane and Charlie

Cullen. They are pushing men’s

hair in new directions. I like their

work ethic and their creativity. It’s

not about skin fades for these guys,

and they’re really mixing it up with

texture and unstructured work. Ross

has two stores now in Manchester

and is really at the top of his game.

You might not know this

about me…

I grew up in Margate in Kent, which

at the time wasn’t cool. It’s now

having an amazing rebirth.

Say hello to me at…

@joemillshair

@joeandcosoho

02 Mister Quarterly


NEW GROOM ROOM

Ted’s Grooming Room, Tower 42, London

Congratulations to Kyle Ross, founder of the Aberdeen barber

shop Huntsman, who scooped the title of Best UK Barber

2017 at the grand fi nal of the International Barber Awards in

Germany. Quite the fi rst anniversary for the Huntsman shop!

WHAT MAKES A GREAT BARBER?

Patience (85%)

Good communication (75%)

Discipline (67%)

Passion (66%)

Respect (64%)

Source: Armour to Barber and The Bluebeards Revenge

Located in the bustle of the city of London, in the iconic Tower 42, this is Ted’s 12th store

and has four barber chairs available to keep all those city gents looking spick-and-span.

Of course, there are the traditional Turkish shaves that the brand is well-known for, but

it also offers something of a retreat from the daily grind of fi nancial shenanigans, and its

own range of grooming products is there to take home, too.

BBA UNVEILS STEERING GROUP

The British Barbers’ Association is launching

a steering group to help guide its policy and

interaction with government and its agencies. The

idea is to ensure that a broader range of members’

views are represented. Chaired by barbering

educator Erik Lander, the group will offer insight on

long-term strategies to help the industry, including

pushing education to fill skills gaps.

PRIME NUMBERS supported

by

OF BARBERS believe there’s not currently enough quality talent to cope with the

rising demand from consumers, according to research by Armour to Barber and

The Bluebeards Revenge. About 83 per cent of those working in the industry think the

barbering sector will continue to flourish, but that a ‘conveyor belt’ system is putting

pressure on barbers to complete cuts quickly (dubbed the ‘10-minute haircut’) without

taking the time to consult with the client. Two-thirds of barbershop owners said they

are finding it difficult to hire a quality barber.

63%Want to be part of The Bluebeards Revenge crew? Visit bluebeards-revenge.co.uk

Mister Quarterly 03


ON THE SHELF

BOYS’ TOYS

THE HOTTEST STOCK, TOOLS AND FURNITURE FOR YOUR BARBER SHOP

Bluebeards Revenge Sea Salt

Spray gives hair a hold that’s

tighter than the grip of

Davy Jones’s Locker,

without any of the sinking

feeling for hold, volume

and texture.

RRP £9.99

01752 989191

bluebeardsrevenge.co.uk

Shabby mud

from Oway is a

soft-hold clay wax to

define and separate with

a weathered effect.

RRP £18.90

01283 586986

oway.co.uk

The Dark Stag premium straight

razor is perfect for shaving, tidying

beards, facial hair and the nape

of the neck.

Salon price £16+VAT

01903 209409

darkstag.com

Blue

Fine Fettle is a range of

Cedar

unique, all natural beard

from V76 by conditioners, beard oils

Vaughn

and natural waxes

has a woody specifically designed

aroma with

for facial hair. Neat!

notes of coconut

RRP from £6.99

and leather.

020 3608 6178

RRP £35

finefettlegrooming.

01442 248104

com

v76.com

KMS

Hybrid

FINISHers

are perfect for

genderless grooming.

RRP £21.50

01323 432100

kmshair.com

SMOOTH MOVER Rich Shave

Cream from TIGI’s Bed Head

for Men will calm and soften

the roughest of chins.

RRP £10.95

0844 8440944

bedhead.com

The Dover wash station

is a classic and there’s the

option to integrate hot towels

for traditional shaving services.

From £2,150

020 7515 0333

takarahairdressing.co.uk

American Crew’s new Firm Hold

Styling Cream is a multipurpose

marvel to nurture,

sculpt and tame.

RRP £12.90

020 7391 7440

americancrew.

com

04 Mister Quarterly


ESSENTIAL

MR. Q DOES THE HARD WORK FOR

YOU, DELIVERING WHAT YOU NEED TO

KNOW, IN ASSOCIATION WITH

MY FAVOURITE AMERICAN CREW PRODUCT IS

BOOST POWDER – I CAN USE IT ON ALL SORTS

OF STYLES FROM DRY POMPS TO SHORTER MESSY

CROPS; ONCE I HAVE BLOW-DRIED THE STYLE

INTO THE SHAPE I WANT, I APPLY BOOST POWDER.

I WORK IT FROM ROOT TO LENGTH AND IT MAKES

HAIR BENDY AND PLIABLE SO I CAN COMB, TWIST

OR SEPARATE INTO THE FINAL SHAPE. IT’S EASY

AND REALLY VERSATILE. I ALWAYS HAVE IT ON ME

FOR STAGE WORK

BALDY, BALDY’S BARBER SHOPS

David Raccuglia with 2017

All Star winner Adam Mir

ACCEPT THE CHALLENGE

We love the texture

being served here by

American Crew Elite

Team member Sam

Wall (@mrsamwall),

using the new

American Crew Tech

Series Boost Spray.

No wonder it’s our

Instagram cut of the

quarter! Want to put

forward a cut to be

considered for the next

issue of Mr Q? Post it

on Instagram, tag in

@americancrewuk and

@creativeheadmag and

use #MrQCrewCloseUp.

Good luck!

#MrQCrewCloseUp

The model. The cut. The

photograph. Bring all those

ingredients together to create

your interpretation of the

American Crew man. This is

the All Star Challenge, the

A-list global competition for

barbers and men’s hairdressers

that recognises the very best of

the best. The Challenge is now

open – and the prize is perfect,

too! All 15 finalists will spend

a week with top grooming

experts including American

Crew founder David Raccuglia,

to perfect the American Crew

Menswork method of styling,

and then they go head to head

in a fierce battle with the

best groomers on the globe

for the All Star trophy…

and a cool $10,000! Find out

more at americancrew.com/

allstarchallenge

As any good barber knows, it’s important to

share what you love – and we’re doing exactly

that this month with American Crew’s Fiber

Cream! We have fi ve to give away to anyone

who wants to have a play with this fi brous

cream that offers medium hold and natural

shine. It’s great on medium to long hair! All

you need to do is follow @americancrewuk

on Instagram and use the hashtag

#MrQFiberCompetition on any post. Easy!

Want to know more about how American Crew can boost your barbering? Call 020 7391 7440 or visit americancrew.com

AmericanCrewUK

Mister Quarterly 05


Suicide is the single biggest

killer of UK men under the age

of 45. It’s a destructive force that

can be felt in communities all around

the country. Yet very little is being done to

address why young men are struggling to the point

where some take their own lives – and so some of the nation’s leading barbers are

taking matters into their own hands, launching projects designed to challenge

preconceptions about men.

Tom Chapman, owner of Tom Chapman Hair Design in Torquay, was devastated

when his friend Alex committed suicide. “I spoke to him days before he took his own

life and I knew nothing. I didn’t pick up on it and he didn’t share anything with me,”

said Tom. “How can this happen? Is it because of stigma and taboo? Or because of

the stereotype of men as strong? I spoke to our friends and said we needed to do

something. A year later it had manifested as the Lions Barber Collective.”

SEE TOM

CHAPMAN AND

MATT ROBINSON AT

26 MARCH AT THE PARK

PLAZA, LONDON

06 Mister Quarterly


The Lions Barber Collective is a mission in two parts. The first

is to raise awareness for mental wellbeing and suicide prevention.

“We have a presence at many events where there may be a high

male percentage attending, such as hair shows, live music and

sporting events,” Tom explains. The second part is BarberTalk –

a bespoke mental health and suicide awareness course condensed

into one day especially for the hair industry.

“The aim is not to turn barbers into counsellors – rather we

hope to give them the confidence to become that bridge between

people and the organisations that are available,” adds Tom.

Matt Robinson, founder of Mister Robinson’s Barbershop in

Rugby, knows what it’s like to experience difficulty as a young

man – during his teenage years he was homeless for a time.

Getting through it inspired him to provide help for men who need

it. “I was a local lad with a darker past, but I had turned the

corner and was walking a straighter path thanks to my faith,”

Matt explains. “I worked in a local barber shop, but I couldn’t do

everything I needed to do for my community. That’s how Mister

Robinson’s started – as a place where people could hang out, be

safe, not feel judged and also get a good haircut. We opened our

doors in 2013 to support our local homeless shelter Hope4, which

was above the shop.”

Matt created The Beard Club to celebrate the men who are

doing great things in their communities, who work to raise money

for charity and to unify men who hold these values from around

the world – it now has more than 5,000 active members.

Mister Quarterly 07


Thanks to their communication skills and sensitivity, barbers

are well equipped to encourage men to open up about how

they feel. Research conducted by the Lions Barber Collective,

together with male grooming brand The Bluebeards Revenge,

has found that of the 1,908 men asked, 53 per cent admitted

they were more likely to discuss private issues such as

depression with their barbers than with a health professional.

The study also found that 78 per cent of men make a conscious

effort to regularly visit the same barber, demonstrating the

strength of this bond. “Barbers and hairstylists have a unique

position of trust from which we can build strong relationships

with our clients,” says Tom. “People tell us things they wouldn’t

tell their closest friends and family. As barbers we have an

incredibly privileged position of intimacy.”

Tom Chapman also holds Lions Den meetings once a month

in the salon, where a volunteer support worker will share

information and support in a non-clinical environment, and

Walking As Lions events, where they gather at the seafront.

“We encourage those with mental health issues or those

struggling with anything to attend and get to know others with

similar issues and understandings,” Tom says.

These meetings are fuelled by Domino’s Pizza, which provides

sustenance for free. “The best bit about teaming up with Domino’s

is that it has agreed to put our leaflets with its boxes,” says Tom.

“People with states of depression and other mental illness can

become isolated and might tend to order delivery food. With our

leaflets on the box, we are reaching the unreachable.”

Liam Hamilton

08 Mister Quarterly


The Bluebeards Revenge is helping The Lions Barber Collective

to get the message out further – the inside of the product cartons

will be covered with advice, statistics and contact details for The

Samaritans – and this year will see The Bluebeards Revenge

launch a new styling gel which will donate a percentage of

profits to The Lions Barber Collective.

The male grooming brand also supports Armour to

Barber, an organisation that helps ex-service men and

women into the barbering industry. Research has shown

that 83 per cent of those in the barbering sector believe their

industry will continue to flourish, but 63 per cent think there

are not enough quality barbers to cope with rising demand.

Founder of Armour to Barber and former British Army officer,

Liam Hamilton, believes that this gap can be filled by ex-military

personnel: “Ex-servicemen and women have all the attributes

to take the trade by storm: patience, people skills, an attention

to detail and the ability to stand on their feet all day without

complaint,” he says.

Meanwhile, fragrance brand TABAC has launched “Shave The

Day”, a campaign in aid of Age UK that encourages

barbershops to open their doors and welcome in

older men who may feel isolated. Luke Dolan,

owner of Luke’s Barbershop in Ruislip, says:

“Barber shops have community spirit at their

very heart and that’s why I wanted to play my

part in bringing back community values and get

people talking to each other, young or old.”

Matt Robinson has also been working hard to

find more ways to support his community. The

barber shop has sponsored live stages at

Rugby’s Bike Festival and also works

with Thaibo, a local kickboxing

group that helps encourage

children to take up sport. Mister

Robinson’s helps support fighters

and has even bought a boxing

ring. And the soup kitchen

above the shop continues to feed

those who need it, with staff

regularly working shifts.

This is the new definition of

“manning up” – the toughest guys

are using their strength to help

their brothers in times of need.

Mister Quarterly 09


10 Mister Quarterly


C O N T R O L

WITH THE IDEA OF MOVING AWAY FROM THE PERCEIVED ‘CLASSIC MAN’, PAUL MERRITT STREET-CAST

GUYS WHO WERE HAPPY FOR HIM DO WHAT HE LIKED; “THIS WAS US WANTING TO DO

SOMETHING STRIPPED BACK…”

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID SCHULZE

Mister Quarterly 11


12 Mister Quarterly


Hair by Paul Merritt for ARROJO NYC. Casting by Cheeky

Mister Quarterly 13


#TRENDING

TOPMAN S/S18

London Fashion Week Men’s

‘New Romantic Club Kid’ was the name of the game

at Topman S/S18, with the show conjuring up images of

’80s boys enjoying a long night in the club… Matt Mulhall

for Fudge Professional was tasked with creating hair that’s

left with that post-night energy. Fudge Professional Hair Gum

was liberally applied from root to ends, before blow-drying with

a brush created volume and wet-look texture. To mould the

shape, Hair Gum was added to the temples, while lashings

of Fudge Professional Skyscraper Extra held everything in

place. To evoke the New Romantic era in all its vibrant

glory, a generous dose of glitter was applied all over

the head and set in place with Skyscraper Extra.

We just can’t get enough…

Images courtesy of Fudge Professional

14 Mister Quarterly


SHOP TALK

POLE POSITION

PORTERS

WITH FOUR SHOPS ACROSS LONDON, THIS BRAND HAS

OPTED FOR AN UNASHAMEDLY MASCULINE APPROACH

East Dulwich Dulwich Village

Bora Esen

Clients who walk into a Porters barber

shop are always made to feel right at home

with a complimentary drink – anything

from coffee and tea infusions to a cold beer

or a scotch. It’s a name that’s developed

from a single barber shop in Dulwich

Village seven years ago to a lifestyle brand

with four South London locations. Exposed

brickwork, vintage barber chairs, Edison

filament bulbs… it all adds to the eclectic

and intimate atmosphere.

There are old-school techniques in play,

as sinks at each work station have chairs

that can rotate so clients experience the

‘front dunk’. It also has the 350 Club,

a men’s grooming club (limited to 350

members) that for £20 a week offers two

weekly treatments, priority appointments

and exclusive invitations to Porter events.

What founder Bora Esen believes sets

Porters apart is its ability to quickly

become the hub of any community its

locate in. The focus is on giving back: from

apprenticeship programmes in the shops to

working with and sponsoring local schools

and charities.

Inside, it’s all about Crew and a brew –

American Crew has been stocked by Bora

since it first landed in the UK, and all the

shops include baristas trained in-house,

just like its barbers. “We have always

served coffee, but never this specialised

and we felt like it was the right time to

crank things up,” explains Bora.

If the setting looks familiar, it’s because

its shops are regular destinations for

filming and photography – the BBC, ITV,

MTV and Sky Sports are just a few of

who’ve set up shoots within its doors. Its

most recent opening was Brixton, a base

Bora says is “like nowhere else in London.

It’s a total melting pot, so you never know

who’s going to walk through the door, or

which style they’ll want”.

Brixton

Mister Quarterly 15


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YOUR

POTENTIAL

ARE YOU READY TO PUSH YOURSELF FURTHER AND ENTER THE WELLA TRENDVISION AWARD 2018?

BUT HOW CAN YOU MAKE SURE YOUR ENTRY STANDS OUT? IT’S ALL IN THE PREP…

RELEASE

WHETHER YOU WANT to drive your career

forward by achieving your goals or entering

the Wella Professionals TrendVision Award,

Wella has got a course for you. Providing

the best education around and inspiring

the hairdressing industry is what drives

Wella Professionals, and its 2018 education

programme is where you’ll find the perfect

solution for every member of your team.

You can start planning your education by

downloading the Wella Education Book 2018.

Here is our round-up of the courses to

attend if you’re looking to push yourself

further this year...

COLOUR CREATE

This is an advanced

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those who want to get

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create new and daring

mixtures, and inspire

your clients.

BOOK IT! To book a course,

contact your Wella Studio

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CREATE YOUR LOOK

This is a must if you’re

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68

CREATIVE HEAD


ARE YOU READY?

You’ve found your inspiration to

enter Wella TrendVision Award 2018,

now choose your category…

• Color Vision

Creative Vision

• Male Grooming

• Runway

CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL

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To enter, request your entry pack

by speaking to your Wella account

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Or download an entry form from

wella.co.uk/trendvision

FOR THOSE

LOOKING FOR EXTRA

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Wella supports you every step of the way so see how the brand can help you today.

To get started, download your copy of the Wella Education Book 2018 at education.wella.com

CREATIVE HEAD

69


70

CREATIVE HEAD


STATEMENT

OF INTENT

FRESH FROM DENIS ROBINSON AND RICHARD

TUCKER AT RUFFIANS, ‘CREDO’ WAS BORN FROM

THE BRAND’S PHILOSOPHY TO EMBRACE BOTH

PURE BARBERING AND HAIRDRESSING WHILE

ALWAYS PUSHING BOUNDARIES

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MATT HOLYOAK

CREATIVE HEAD

71


72

CREATIVE HEAD


HAIR Denis Robinson and Richard Tucker at Ruffians. STYLING Callum Vincent. GROOMING Paul Haskell

SEE MORE from this shoot,

including a behind-the-scenes

video at creativeheadmag.com

CREATIVE HEAD

73


Breathless

Fresh, beautiful and

gleaming with health , the

hair in the Headmasters

2018 Blow Dry collection

will make clients , hearts

beat a little bit faster

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES KEMMENOE

74

CREATIVE HEAD


CREATIVE HEAD

75


76

CREATIVE HEAD


HAIR Headmasters Pro Artistic Team – Jonathan Soons, Siobhan Jones, Nicole Iroh, Clare Hansford and Gareth Williams using

L’Oréal Professionnel. CREATIVE DIRECTION AND STYLING Laura Hinton. MAKE-UP Andriani Vasiliou

CREATIVE HEAD

77


Scene

THE HOTTEST EVENTS EVERY MONTH – GET YOURSELF SCENE!

Cirque de

SYD HAYES

FULL OF DAZZLING SPECTACLES, daring interactive experiences

and deftly coiffed creations, the first ever Featured Artist LIVE event left

attendees awestruck. Dreamed up by the night’s ringmaster, Most Wanted

2017 Session Stylist Syd Hayes, the new Creative HEAD Education evening

(held in association with BaByliss PRO) had a twisted circus theme.

Blending laughter and learning, it saw guests pushing creative boundaries

while playing with hair in fun and fascinating new ways. Through Syd’s

lens, the process of transforming a look with hair pieces and wefts became a

warped game of pin the ponytail (or fringe) on the donkey. Against a neon-lit

backdrop of Syd’s tear-sheets, guests undertook a nearly-nude life-drawing

class using hair colour as ink. A shooting gallery featured paint-filled

balloons suspended above pieces from Syd’s wig wardrobe, with attendees

queuing up to take aim with darts. And another row of mannequin heads,

each with 16 wigs hand-sewn together, allowed participants to sculpt shapes

using suspended sets of clippers. At the end of the night, when guests had

tried each activity, Syd took to the mic to conduct an impromptu Q&A

session. He also doled out boxes of his new styling accessory, the Syd Pin,

to audience members who had impressed in each of the tasks. Thanks to

event sponsors BaByliss PRO, everyone also went home with a goodie bag

featuring one of the brand’s top electrical tools. What a finale!

Syd Hayes

78

CREATIVE HEAD


CREATIVE HEAD 79


Catherine Handcock with Ky Wilson

Catherine Handcock with

Samantha Hillerby

SEE

KY WILSON

SPEAK AT

25 MARCH AT THE PARK

PLAZA, LONDON

LARGER

than life

THE COTERIE POPPED up at Lambert’s Yard in Leeds for tales of

session, styling, salons and success from two very different hairdressers.

First up was Samantha Hillerby, a local girl done very good – and by

good, we mean landing front covers of Vogue and tending to the tresses

of Victoria Beckham and Cara Delevingne, among others. Interviewed

by Creative HEAD publisher Catherine Handcock, Samantha spoke

about moving to London and working with Guido and Nicky Clarke, and

discussed her studio in Swanland, near Hull. She revealed the best advice

she ever received was from Mark Hill, who told her to ‘Milk it, girl!’ From

style maven to style maverick, The It List It Guy 2017, Ky Wilson, started

out in hairdressing “because I needed a job”, opening his own spaces in

warehouses. In true Ky style, he had a refreshing take on social media:

“I’d rather get a ‘like’ in person, from someone saying ‘I liked that’. You

see hairdressers who are in the right place at the right time, doing a cool

band’s hair and having fun, but they can’t cut hair. They just want to be

famous because of Instagram.” And the product he can’t live without?

“A hairdryer… and my mouth.” Guests left feeling inspired and with a

lucky dip goodie bag, courtesy of BaByliss PRO.

2017

2017

WINNER

THE IT GUY

80

CREATIVE HEAD


A night on

THE TOWN

TIGI’s Anthony and Pat Mascolo

THE GREAT AND THE GOOD have been entertained at Café de Paris

and, for one night only, we were invited to enjoy an evening at the famous

London nightclub with the TIGI Inspirational Youth Team. The event

began with the nine team members presenting their looks to a packed-out

audience. Each team member cut and finished their model live on stage,

explaining where they got their inspiration from, the TIGI products they

used to create the look and the colours created using TIGI copyright©olour.

Punk, Bowie, cyber and sci-fi were all referenced. The evening ended with a

recreation by the TIGI International Creative Team of its show, Utopia, which it

originally performed for the Alternative Hair Show at the Royal Albert Hall.

CREATIVE HEAD 81


Teamwork in action!

Stylists @franking24 and

@drueboybarber enjoying

V Festival

Looking after @cheflukethomas

backstage at @vfestival

Our new barber shop in

@creativeheadmag

In the

frame

Daniel Rymer, founder of Bristol’s Daniel Rymer

Male Grooming (@danielrymerhair) and an

#avedaartist competition winner, snaps away

We are two years old!

SHOOT AND SEND Want to give us

a snapshot of your world? Tweet

us at @creativeheadmag now!

Fran busy backstage at

V Festival

Fellow #avedaartist winner

@kenny.y-- with

his awesome model

Shooting my new collection

Looking good #avedaartist

Drue and Fran get busy on

the #avedaartist shoot

82

CREATIVE HEAD


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