In print•online•everywhere!
£4.50 JANUARY 2018
UNIQUE IS CHIC – THINK TECHNIQUE
NOT ALL HAIR
COLOUR IS CREATED
UAL
SHADES EQ BY REDKEN. THE TECHNIQUE PERFECTOR
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CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
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In 2018, consumer awareness of techniques is set
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contouring were but a twinkle in the colourist’s eye.
This is no longer the case.
IN 2017, THERE WERE OVER
1M GOOGLE SEARCHES FOR
BALAYAGE*
Professional techniques are now one of the biggest
awareness drivers in the colour industry, fuelled by
the increase in both consumers and professional
influencers showcasing their techniques and looks
on social media. This has arguably led to an increase
in consumers becoming savvier than ever on what
they demand from their colourist.
TECHNIQUES ARE ONE OF THE BIGGEST DRIVERS
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ONE OF A KIND
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CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
*Google Internal Search Data. During the period: Q3 2017 to Q4 2017, ‘Balayage’ was one of the top queries on
search by volume for Haircolour, a category classified by Google. **Improvement in shine is shade dependent.
Redken Shades EQ offers demi-permanent colour
without lifting hair. The formula is perfect to tone,
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1.
EVEN RESULTS, NO COMPROMISE
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TECHNIQUE PERFECTION
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CLIENTS BORED
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CLIENTS SHORT
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’’
WHAT WAS I DOING
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’’
JOSH WOOD, REDKEN GLOBAL COLOUR CREATIVE
DIRECTOR AND MOST WANTED HAIR ICON 2016
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
SIMPLY THE
’’
TWO OF THE INDUSTRY’S WORLD-LEADING COLOURISTS
REVEAL WHY THEY CAN'T LIVE WITHOUT SHADES EQ
I HAVEN'T FOUND A GLOSS
QUITE LIKE SHADES EQ. IT’S
TRULY IN A CATEGORY OF
ITS OWN. IT'S PERFECTION
’’
TRACEY CUNNINGHAM, CELEBRITY COLOURIST
MAKE A
STATEMENT
The power of Instagram is no secret, but did you know that Pinterest is fast becoming a
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inspired by Redken's Shades EQ pinboards on @REDKENUKI and discover the formulas
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Share your best Shades EQ techniques on Instagram using
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Tag @REDKEN for a chance to be featured on Redken’s
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ALWAYS O
WITH THE LAUNCH OF ITS PASTEL AND SILVER SHADES, DISCOVE
ON-TREND TECHNIQUES AND SHADES TH
Power Pastels
POWER PASTELS
Introducing four make-up-inspired
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Peach, Aqua Blue and Silver Green.
Silver Statements
SILVER
STATEMENTS
Shades EQ has a range of eight silver,
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let clients unleash their #SilverHair.
N TREND
R HOW SHADES EQ ELEVATES FOUR OF THE MOST POPULAR
AT CLIENTS CAN'T GET ENOUGH OF
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AUTUMN
W I N T E R
2017
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Editor’s letter
70
It always struck me that for a man
who played such an enormous role
in changing the face of modern, high
street hairdressing, Toni Mascolo was
just so, well, nice. He was proud of his
achievements with Toni&Guy,
yes, but he wasn’t a proud
man, there was no hint of
ego. I would hear how even
as he entered his 70s, he
would still see clients,
taking in his packed
lunch for the day
ahead. Toni’s death,
just before Christmas,
is heartbreaking, for
his family, the Toni&Guy
community and indeed
the industry as a whole.
He will be missed, but his
warmth and his impact
will never be forgotten.
Thank you, Toni.
EVERY NEW YEAR’S DAY we set unrealistic goals that often
serve to make ourselves feel like failures when we invariably haven’t
stuck to them. So, I’m going to make a resolution that I think is actually
doable with a little effort and thought, and I urge you to join me in making
it also: we won’t be mediocre. I resolve that Creative HEAD and its events
and digital brands will not deliver anything dull, rehashed or average. I resolve
that we will fill our pages with the practical and the inspirational, content that
will serve to help elevate our industry at a time when it needs it most. We won’t
run photographic collections that perpetuate a tired aesthetic and say nothing to
the client that’s actually bringing money into a salon. We will help and support
you to grow your business, to excite your team, to experiment and try new ideas.
Look out over 2018 for new launches from us and fresh initiatives that are laserfocused
on making a real impact on this wonderful industry (check out page
53 for news of the British Beauty Council, by the way). Read our Review of
2017 and Preview of 2018, see what visionary names have done and are
doing, and think about what YOU can do to make mediocrity a dirty
word in your salon. If you don’t, January 2019 might look very
bleak indeed...
Amanda Nottage
Editor
JOIN US!
WELCOME TO 2018, a busy and
bumper year of Creative HEAD
events! If you have a Most
Wanted or It List trophy in your
sights, there’s not long to wait
– the competitions launch
on 1 March. Want to take
control of your business?
Book tickets NOW to Salon
Smart! Our brilliant business
networking event takes place
25 to 26 March and will
feature our most stellar line-up
EVER. The Coterie is back
on Monday 29 January – get
set for a fascinating debate on
creative rituals, hosted by London
College Fashion’s Tony Glenville.
And, while you’re online getting
tickets, check out our Creative HEAD
events movie showcase – featuring
2017’s coolest video moments. Visit
creativeheadmag.com/events
amanda@alfol.co.uk creativeheadmag.com creativeheadmagofficial
@creativeheadmag
January
WHAT’S INSIDE
78
SCENE
The Syd Hayes
circus spectacular
comes to town
FASHION
Hair legend Paul Merritt
reveals a new collection
44
REVIEW/PREVIEW
We showcase the highlights of 2017 and
what to look forward to in 2018
FREE INSIDE
ON THE COVER
Hair by Redken
S P A C E
SALON INTERIORS
Let’s reflect
FROM BRICK TO BRONZE,
INTERIORS TO INSPIRE AND ADMIRE
2 0 1 8
FREE INSIDE
EDITOR
AMANDA NOTTAGE
DEPUTY EDITOR
BETH DAVIE
ART DIRECTOR
NICK JABBAL
CHIEF SUB EDITOR
ADAM WOOD
STAFF WRITER
ANNA SAMSON
ADVERTISING
LAURA TUCKER
CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE
DAVID HAMMOND
DIGITAL DESIGNER
EVA VESTMANN
ONLINE AND
DIGITAL EDITOR
ALISON ROWLEY
SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR
JOANNA ANDERSEN
PUBLISHER
CATHERINE HANDCOCK
Creative HEAD is printed on
paper certifi ed as being from
sustainable sources using only
vegetable-based inks. Printed
by Buxton Press, Environmental
Printer of the Year and Printing
Company of the Year.
WRITE TO US AT:
Creative HEAD,
21 The Timberyard,
Drysdale Street,
London, N1 6ND
020 7324 7540
enquiries@alfol.co.uk
Creative HEAD is published
10 times a year by Alfol Ltd.
Creative HEAD is a registered
trademark. No part of this
magazine may be reproduced
without prior permission of the
publisher. All information correct
at time of going to press.
Printing by Buxton Press
creativeheadmag.com
creativeheadmagofficial
@creativeheadmag
a
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*From plants, non-petroleum minerals or water. Learn more at aveda.co.uk.
The edit
THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY
TONI MASCOLO OBE:
1942-2017
GIUSEPPE TONI MASCOLO, co-founder
of Toni&Guy, has died at the age of 75. Toni
founded the hairdressing group with his
brother, the late Guy Mascolo, in South
London in 1963. He became chief executive
of Toni&Guy, alongside its sister brands
essensuals and label.m, spending more than
50 years in the industry. Today, there are more
than 475 Toni&Guy salons across 48 countries.
Originally from Southern Italy, he arrived
with his mother and brothers in London in
1956 to join his father, who was working as
a barber in Knightsbridge. Soon after, Toni
went to work with his father in the West End.
In 1963 he and Guy found a space in Clapham
and opened the first Toni&Guy salon,
revolutionising modern British hairdressing
on the high street to what we know today.
In October 2006, Toni received an Italian
Knighthood – the Cavaliere Ufficiale – and
in October 2008 he was awarded an honorary
OBE for his services to British hairdressing. In
2013 Toni received an AH+AIPP International
Legend Award at the Alternative Hair Show,
which was presented to him by his younger
brother Anthony. In a statement, the Mascolo
family said: “We all loved him in life as we will
love him in death. He will be dearly missed.”
Toni is survived by his wife Pauline and
children Sacha, Christian and Pierre.
Brooker cuts for
Creative HEAD Club
SASSOON LEGEND Christopher Brooker made a rare return to the
hairdressing stage with a one-day workshop in creative skills and business
thinking, held at the Stannard & Slingsby salon in Kensington.
The creator of the iconic Firefly, Brush and Thatch hairstyles demonstrated
cutting techniques to an audience of enthralled stylists – including The It List
2017 winners Mike O’Gorman, Casey Coleman and Darcie Harvey – and also
found time to sign a pair of scissors, donated by Joewell in aid of ACT charity.
“It was the most wonderful day,” said Dale Hollinshead of Birmingham
salon Hazel & Haydn, who won a place at the workshop
after joining the new Creative HEAD Club.
“Christopher is such a passionate man.”
JOIN US! Become a member
of the Creative HEAD Club
for the chance to win more
opportunities such as this
and exclusive giveaways.
See page 3 for more details.
We all know that Most Wanted Session Stylist
winner Syd Hayes is one cool customer. Now
you and your clients can wear a little bit of his
cool vibe with the Syd Hayes Hair Pin (RRP
from £60). For the ultimate indulgence, opt for
the diamond-studded one – it’s only £3,000…
sydhayeshair.com
SEE SYD IN ACTION at our fi rst
Featured Artist Live event on page 78
12
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please contact:
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for stockists
#CHedit
TREATWELL JOINS FORCES
WITH THE PRINCE’S TRUST
TREATWELL IS SUPPORTING young people setting up
their own hair and beauty businesses by partnering with
The Prince’s Trust Enterprise programme.
The charity’s programme offers training, mentoring and
funding support to 18 to 30 year olds, and the online beauty
bookings service is helping to fund young people who want to
start a beauty business to participate in Enterprise.
Lopo Champalimaud, chief executive of Treatwell, said:
“We are excited to be able to work with young people to help
them realise their potential, and to help the hair and beauty
industry discover the stars of tomorrow.”
Lopo has also helped to raise funds for The Prince’s Trust by
joining the ‘Team Enterprise’ trek to the South Pole. Through
this expedition, Lopo hopes to bring Treatwell’s fundraising
efforts to a total of more than £1 million for the charity.
He joined a team of seven other business leaders (including
Treatwell chairman, Klaus Nyengaard), on a trip that took them
from Punta Arenas in Chile to the South Pole.
MEET OUR JANUARY
FEATURED ARTIST!
With more than 20 years in hairdressing and a
cover of The Sunday Times Magazine under
his belt, Andrew Jose is a star stylist. He lets
us into his world as this month’s Featured
Artist – only on Creative HEAD Education!
Visit creativeheadmag.com/education
REFRESHING YOUR SALON? Get inspired
with this Salon Ambience brochure, free with
your issue of Creative HEAD!
HAIRDRESSERS
‘LOVE TO MAKE
PEOPLE HAPPY’
THE BEST PART about
working in the hairdressing
industry is the chance
to make people happy,
according to a survey by
Direct Line for Business.
The research by the
insurance company
revealed that 40 per cent of
respondents said making
people happy was why they
loved hairdressing, followed
by meeting new people
(26 per cent) and creating
inspiring styles (17 per cent).
The research comes at
a time when it is becoming
increasingly diffi cult to attract
apprentices due to changes
in funding, see page 24 for
more information.
MY month
AHEAD
What January
has in store for...
SKYLER MCDONALD
SKYLER LONDON
We’re super-excited
about the reception
around our exclusive
Silk Bath technique and,
following this, the team
and I will be working on
creating new social content
for the year. I’m also speaking
at Salon Smart at the end of
March, so I am busy prepping
for this. It is an honour to
talk at such an interesting
networking event, discussing
the concept of my salon.
AKIN KONIZI
HOB SALONS
We’re making big
changes to the HOB
Academy; we’ve
got the builders in to
expand and refurbish
the Academy building
and we’re launching a new
HOB Bespoke education
concept and developing
a new internal long hair
teaching programme. Then
there’s planning for our new
commercial collections and
the Wella TrendVision Award.
JANET MAITLAND
INSPIRES NORTH EAST
JANET MAITLAND HAS brought
home a win at the North East
Business Woman of the Year
WIN Awards. The owner of Janet
Maitland Hair Excellence in Durham
was presented with the Inspire
Me award for the success of
her three salons, her work in
the local community and
her charitable work with
Schwarzkopf Professional’s
Shaping Futures initiative.
14
Not sure where to look for
business support in 2018?
Make joining the NHF your New Year resolution: as a Member you’ll have
everything you need at your fingertips for less than 75p a day.
24/7 employment law helpline
Commercial helpline
Health & safety, tax and payroll advice
Ready-made employment contracts
Brilliant ideas for boosting your business
You’ll wonder what you did without us!
Call us on 01234 831965 or email us on enquires@nhf.info www.nhf.info/benefits
NHF membership from £147
Join before 28 February and quote CHJ25 to get
£25 off your membership fee.
Balayage bother no more!
New Rooted Strands from
Great Lengths allows the
flexibility to apply a less
detectable darker bond while
keeping lighter ends. Hurrah!
There are four shades to
choose from.
IN-SALON SERVICE
0113 2781292
greatlengths.co.uk
Create your perfect shade
of grey with new Dark Grey
Colour Dynamics from ASP.
For a subtler
look, add
ASP Colour
Dynamics
Pasteliser
to mix up
a stunning
pastel finish.
IN-SALON
SERVICE
01794 527111
asphair.com
Which do we love
more from R+Co
– the bright and
earthy RELATIVE
PARADISE
Fragrance Spray,
or these round
natural boar
brushes designed
by co-founder
Garan? We’ll just
take it all…
RRP £18.50
(SPRAY); FROM
£65 (BRUSHES)
01442 248104
randco.com
Want Instagram-worthy tools in your kit bag… or to
recommend to your selfie-loving clients? Then check out
the limited edition Modern Marble collection of tools and
brushes from Paul Mitchell.
RRP FROM £7.50
0845 6590013
salon-success.co.uk
Irresistible services consumers will want
to snap up, selected by the Layered team
There are some models who just exude effortless
cool, a certain subtle, chic vibe that women crave. Alexa
Chung has done that for the best part of a decade, and
it’s why she’s the face (or hair) of L’Oréal Professionnel’s
Parisian Nudes service. Ms Chung is rocking
the #COLOURMEFRENCH technique,
a pairing of two bespoke brunette
shades from Majirel that will enhance
your client’s colour to create an
effortless, multi-dimensional
nude finish. It’s a great way to
show how brunettes can still enjoy
tailored colour services that look
natural… and keep them away
from the DIY box!
IN-SALON SERVICE
0800 0304034
lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
Want that “Oh, I woke up like this” finish? Then
reach for the OSiS+ Made to Be Real styling
collection from Schwarzkopf Professional,
featuring Sand Clay and Wind Touch.
RRP FROM £10.95
0800 526741
schwarzkopf-professional.co.uk
Aveda has unveiled three
new aromas in its Pure-fume
Hair Mists range, inspired
by Brazil (Marassona), the
Middle East (Alanara) and
Asia (Mihana).
RRP £30 EACH
0370 0342380
aveda.co.uk
You can now take
out a kind-of colour
insurance against
your client’s hair
colour with Celeb
Luxury, which
keeps hair colour
looking fresh
and healthy. Grab
the bold care
option, Viral.
RRP FROM £25.95
0845 6590011
salon-success.co.uk
We love new Matte
Color, the latest
addition to milk_
shake’s creative
permanent colour
range. Characterised
by a predominant
green tone, there are
six cool matte shades.
IN-SALON SERVICE
01392 365177
milkshakehair.co.uk
With new technology that
gives you true-to-tone fading,
the 12 rainbow shades
(and one clear) from Wella
Professionals’ Color Fresh
Create will have your clients
crying unicorn tears of joy!
IN-SALON SERVICE
01202 595700
wella.co.uk
16
#CHedit
STOCK
OPTIONS
OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO
STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS
AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS
Redken has launched six on-trend shades
across its Shades EQ portfolio, ensuring
there’s something for every client. Whether
it’s the millennial mixer who likes to change
it up regularly, or the time-poor client that
needs a quick colour refresh in their lunch
hour, Redken has it covered. Going grey has
never been so cool and this is encapsulated
perfectly by Redken Shades EQ’s two new
silver shades, as seen on Vogue fashion
features director, Sarah Harris (pictured).
The polished Silver has beautiful metallic
tones, while the Steel shade is a medium
grey and provides a bright, silvery
shine. For those keen to embrace the
colourful hair trend, the new pastel
shades by Shades EQ will keep
them happy. The four new shades
include Pastel Pink – a soft pink
enhanced with violet hues and used
by Josh Wood, Redken global color
creative director, at Alexander Wang
S/S18; Pastel Peach – a pale orange
balanced with pink tones; Aqua Blue
– a radiant blue with subtle tones of
warmth; and Silver Green – a grasslike
green with metallic shimmer.
IN-SALON SERVICE
0845 6000815
redken.co.uk
IT’S ALL ABOUT... BEATING BRASS
Be a clean machine with Crazy Color’s
new intense, sulphate-free Ultraviolet
No Yellow Shampoo, perfect for grey,
blonde or super-lightened hair. You can
even use it as a gentle toner.
RRP £11.50
0141 8125000
crazycolor.co.uk
Aha! Joico has delivered a silver bullet in the battle
against brass – LumiShine Silver Blue series, an
arsenal of silver-blue based demi-permanent liquid
shades that deliver icy cool
results every time.
IN-SALON SERVICE
0845 0712326
joico-lumishine.com
CREATIVE HEAD
17
BOOST YOUR
BUSINESS WITH
£12,000
THAT’S HOW MUCH REDS HAIR AND BEAUTY IN SUNDERLAND HAS MADE IN SALES IN A YEAR FROM USING SMARTBOND,
THE REVOLUTIONARY BONDING AGENT FROM L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL. THE TEAM HAS ALREADY SOLD 600
APPLICATIONS SINCE IT LAUNCHED A YEAR AGO – SO JUST IMAGINE WHAT SMARTBOND CAN DO FOR YOUR SALON’S
BOTTOM LINE! ENCOURAGE CLIENTS TO USE IT WHEN THEY HAVE THEIR HAIR COLOURED AND THEY’LL ENJOY STRONG
AND PROTECTED HAIR! WE SPOKE TO SALON MANAGER GREG TEMPLE TO FIND OUT HIS TOP SMARTBOND TIPS...
1 Train your staff to get them on board with the product so that it’s easier for them to convince clients about Smartbond. Invite models to try the
service for free so staff and clients alike can see its benefi ts.
2 Incentivise your staff to sell Smartbond by offering an upgrade service to clients where they can take home a retail product; this helps staff
with retail sales and increases their commissions.
3 Just trust the product! The more you use it, the more clients can see its benefi ts over other bonding
products, how it maintains the integrity of the hair, and how it doesn’t affect the colour processing time.
THE FIX
Want to re-create a beautiful Parisian
Brunette colour in your salon? Check out
this stunning transformation created by
@trevorsorbiesalon. Want it? Recreate it for
your clients using the following steps:
STEP 1 Apply Dia Richesse 5.8 + 9 vol to roots
STEP 2 Apply Dia Richesse 6.8 + 9 vol to lengths
and ends
STEP 3 Use Smartbond throughout
Don’t forget to share your own transformations
using @lorealpro #lorealprouk #smartbond
RETAIL REHAB
Parisian brunettes are
all about effortless
glamour, so you need
the ultimate multitasker
– Mythic Oil by
L’Oréal Professionnel.
It shines, nourishes
and smooths without
weighing hair down
and provides heat
protection.
18
CREATIVE HEAD
*Source: 2015 Colourants Segmentation, Ipsos Base: Women aged 18-75.
**Kantar Worldpanel Usage: 52w/e June 2012-2016: GB: Females 17+
Be a
COLOUR ADDICT
FROM BEAUTIFUL BRUNETTES TO UNICORN DREAMERS,
GET ADDICTED TO COLOUR IN 2018 WITH
FOR THOSE CLIENTS wanting to start 2018 as
they mean to go on, and put their best foot forward,
there’s a new trend that’s simply perfect. It’s all about
Parisian Chic – subtle, sophisticated and seamless
colour to refresh your clients’ look for the New
Year. And who better to debut the Majirel palette
than queen of laissez-faire luxury, Alexa Chung,
L’Oréal Professionnel’s new ambassador. She wears
Parisian Nudes with the #COLOURMEFRENCH
technique, a pairing of two bespoke brunette shades
that will enhance your client’s colour to create an
effortless, multi-dimensional nude finish. Team it
with a textured cut or French girl fringe, and let the
tonal reflects enrich your clients’ colour, while still
retaining an understated, stylish vibe.
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
BRUNETTES
The number one hair colour in the UK is brunette, but
only 13 per cent of brunettes colour their hair exclusively
in salon.* At L’Oréal Professionnel, we know that 69 per
cent want a natural look,** but as a colourist you know
that ‘natural’ doesn’t mean just one bowl of colour or
just using base shades. It’s an opportunity for you to
showcase your professional difference, and that’s what
the Parisian Nudes service is all about. Effortlessly
natural isn’t effortless to achieve; it needs the specialist
hands of a colourist.
DO THIS NOW
1) Make sure you’ve got the new Alexa Chung Parisian
Nudes imagery, featuring the #COLOURMEFRENCH
technique, up in your salon and across your social media
– get your clients asking for a little French fancy!
2) Ensure everyone knows about the new Parisian
Nudes trend and the services and techniques that are on
offer so that they can chat about them with confidence
during consultations.
3) Create a menu of services that pique your client’s
interest further, all to illustrate this je ne sais quoi chic;
think textured cuts, scrappy bobs. Magnifique!
Get further addicted to colour with L’Oréal Professionnel – visit lorealprofessionnel.co.uk or call 0800 0304034
CREATIVE HEAD
19
THE SECRET OF…
ATTRACTING NEW CLIENTS IN JANUARY
THE BUSINESS EDIT
WHAT’S THE IMPACT OF
APPRENTICESHIP CHANGES?
DO YOU KNOW how software can
help salons looking to attract new
customers come the New Year? Let
us tell you how… keeping in mind
post-holiday budgets and the 30 per
cent of the population resolving to
̒ save more and spend less ̓, you’ll
need an intro offer with pricing that
entices, rather than intimidates. It
also needs to be simple to develop,
manage and sell – and easy for your
clients to buy. Here’s what to do:
Make sure your salon software
can facilitate new offers (i.e. multipleservice
packages, discount pricing,
pre-booking appointments) and that
you can track and analyse your sales
to determine their success.
Try a discounted, multiappointment
package that brings
in clients at a discounted price.
The aim is to create an amazing
experience to help them see the
value of returning at full price.
When designing this package,
offer more than one appointment,
giving you more opportunities to
build a relationship – and have
a clear expiration date. If you’re
recommending a four-session blowdry
package, have it expire in fi ve,
rather than 10, weeks.
DATA RELEASED BY the Department
for Education shows a 61 per cent drop in
the number of new apprentices starting
their programmes since changes to
apprenticeship funding were introduced
last May. Small and micro businesses
now have to pay 10 per cent of the cost of
apprenticeship training, about £900 per
apprentice for hairdressing and barbering,
unless they are taking on 16 to 18 year
olds. May also saw the introduction of new
Trailblazer standards for hair. Are salons now
staying away from investing in apprentices?
It’s something NHF chief executive Hilary
Hall had warned might occur. “Worries about
new standards will have contributed to the
drop, but the NHF has consistently warned
that changes to apprenticeship funding for
small and micro businesses – who make up
the vast majority of employers in our sector –
would lead to a catastrophic fall in take-up
of apprenticeships,” she says.
As the government has guaranteed a
35 per cent increase in apprentice numbers
during this parliamentary term, Sanrizz
hopes this will go some way to encourage
candidates. “At present, the industry
struggles to find the number of trainees
necessary to generate the amount of future
stylists needed to support salon businesses,”
admits Sharon Cox, head of education at
Sanrizz. “But this is not a reflection on new
legislation, it’s a reflection on the culture
within young people at school and being
encouraged to continue further education
by schools, rather than being given an
option of other career paths.” She adds that
the pressure is on salons to “encourage
and stimulate younger generations to stay
on after the completion of the course, and
develop their craft and careers”.
Michele Stewart, Contemporary’s
education programme manager, feels this
10 per cent charge is penalising potential
apprentices aged 19 and over: “Some
employers don’t want to invest in their
training if they can recruit a 16-year-old for
the same job, no fee! It’s had a huge impact
already on our recruitment.”
Although KH Hair has definitely noticed
a drop in the number of young people
applying to join its apprenticeship scheme,
managing director Darren Messias believes
this is in part due to advice being given to
both school-leavers and their parents about
the options available. “When pupils express
an interest in hairdressing, many schools are
pushing them towards further education in
a college and not always telling them about
the benefits of an apprenticeship.”
Alan D’s Edward Hemmings advises
salon owners not to be scared of the new
standards. “If your apprentice is under 19
and you’re a small business you will NOT
have to contribute to the training. In fact,
you can get a grant of £1,000,” he says. “You
will need to contribute to the end-test, but
you’ll still be quids in. If your provider is
good at what they do, you will have a workready
apprentice in about two years.”
20
Remove the pricing barrier by
offering a discount, but don’t price
too low or offer freebies as it will
mean low retention. And avoid
having too many pricing options,
you’ll just confuse your clients.
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
For more salon-savvy secrets by MINDBODY,
visit uk.mindbodyonline.com
From inside the salon
KEITH MELLEN ANNE VECK SALONS
At Anne Veck Salons, we’ll continue to consider new apprentices aged
19 or older, but we’ll be even more thorough than before due to the
triple-whammy of costs. However, the financial incentive for taking
on 16 to 18 year olds is welcome and has already shifted our focus to
this group. Employment models are changing at a bewildering speed
and we need to compete with other creative industries for young
talent. Two years of on-the-job training and salon drudgery disguised
as salon experience is not sustainable. We’re looking to rebalance our
apprenticeships so they offer more training and less assistant-type
duties. If hairdressing is to survive, something must change.
CREATIVE HEAD
#BusinessEdit
TIMOTHY FOSTER
WAHL
STYLING TOOLS FOR WOMEN
– WHY LAUNCH THEM NOW?
The Wahl Style Collection has
been borne out of a desire to
create a credible alternative
for professional stylists.
We want to break through the
veneer of the superficial by
creating a range of products
that put the substance back
into style.
WHAT MAKES THE WAHL
STYLE COLLECTION TOOLS
DIFFERENT?
Our Styling Iron and Dryer
are the culmination of a
rigorous and considered
process. Co-designed with
leading stylists Hooker &
Young, the result is a set of
tools that are built with a real
understanding of the needs
of today’s stylists; tools that
are robust enough to live
up to the demands of the
busy salon environment and
dynamic enough to create
hair that lives up to life. The
Iron features contoured
ceramic plates that heat
and cool in ultra-fast time,
with variable heat settings
and a three-metre swivel
cord. Our perfectly balanced
Dryer is quiet yet powerful,
with Quick Dry Air Flow, a
Whispertek silencer, three
heat settings, two nozzles and
the ability to switch on Turbo
Heat or Cool Shot.
WHAT CAN WE EXPECT FROM
WAHL IN 2018?
We’ll be exhibiting at various
industry shows and launching
our Wahl Style Collection UK
roadshows with Hooker &
Young to showcase our new
range. Watch this space!
Q
A
TAKE TO TWITTER AND QUIZ YOUR HAIR HEROES!
LARRY KING,
LARRY KING SALON
You might seem like an overnight success, but I’m guessing it was a long journey. What was
the tipping point?
@darrenfowlerhair
Blimey, I wish it had been that easy. But no-one hands you success on a plate. It’s taken hard
graft – working long days and never saying no to an opportunity. It’s meant missing out on
special events with my kids at times, when all you want to do is stay home. At the end of the
day it’s only you who can really make it happen.
The tipping point was asking my wife Laura to help. Laura’s been designing for years, she’s
helped loads of my friends with their businesses and one day I said: “Right, now it’s time to
help me.” She doesn’t mess about; within a few of weeks she’d designed the branding, created
a business plan and started work on the website and salon interiors. She runs the business
with me on a daily basis, which gives me more time to be creative.
What is your secret when it comes to working with curly hair?
@S3Kat
I start wet and cut while it dries naturally, so you can see it taking shape. Always blunt cut
and never use thinning scissors on curly hair. I love Redken’s Frizz Dismiss, then Full Effect
04 mousse, which adds body and volume without the dreaded crispiness and then a couple of
pumps of Redken’s Curvaceous Ringlet and the Dyson Supersonic with the diffuser.
How have you used the relationships you’ve nurtured over the years to create a buzz about
your brand?
@NasalHairSpray
There has been an incredible buzz created by my friends posting and mentioning the salon.
But to be honest I rarely ask people to post, everything you see is organic. I’m so lucky to have
an amazing friendship group. The launch party last January was a testament to this. Our PR
company told us to invite 400 if we were hoping to have 250 turn up. We did – and 398 came!
Is the press important to you and your brand, or is it all about social media and influencers
these days?
@BeautyJournoSJ
Both are important. I think influencers are an incredible way to get customers through the
door – you can’t beat real life recommendations. But the press is still key to building brand
awareness and market positioning.
Next issue: Phil Smith. Tweet us your question @creativeheadmag
SEE
LARRY KING
SPEAK AT
26 MARCH AT THE PARK
PLAZA, LONDON
CREATIVE HEAD
21
#BusinessEdit
KEN’S CLINIC
GOT A BUSINESS HEADACHE? LET KEN WEST, DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS
EXPERTS 3•6•5, OFFER A PERSONAL PRESCRIPTION
KEN’S DIAGNOSIS
Austen, the reality is that the generation we are
training now is different from mine, yours, and
those of recent years. I could spend hours explaining the
differences but I suggest you watch some of the online
content from business consultant Simon Sinek. Once
you accept the challenges are different, you begin to
realise that the solutions must also be different. Sadly,
we continue to train in the same way that we have done
for as long as I can remember. Yes, we have had improved
syllabuses and changes to processes but, to put it simply,
we pay as little as we can to trainees while taking as long
as we can to train them because we need them to fulfil
mundane roles in the salon. This does not appeal
to the ‘now generation’.
Okay, many are screaming at me in defence
of the system, but would a trainee doctor
spend one day a week learning medicine and
the other four changing beds and mopping
the floors? Of course not, because they need to
be treating patients as soon as possible.
Answer me this: if you trained
someone in practical skills all day
every day, how long do you think
it would take them to become
income producing?
There are many salons that
invest their time and money on
in-salon training, but there are
also too many that send their
trainees off to college for
30 days over three or four
I NEED ASSISTANCE WITH ASSISTANTS
In recent years we’ve had assistants who
want instant fame but don’t have the
passion and don’t want to put in the time
or effort to master hairdressing. In the
culture of instant gratification in which
we now live, what should we do to help
the next generation appreciate a craft that
takes years to master?
AUSTEN THOMSON, CREATIVE
DIRECTOR, AUSTEN THOMSON HAIR
years to achieve qualifications most salon owners would
not accept as good enough.
So, what do I think the solution is? Well if the ‘true
investment’ in any trainee is the cost of 90 days of
training, then why not make this investment up front?
Trainees could be on the floor sooner and earning money
for you (and themselves) much more quickly.
This now becomes far more appealing to the ‘now
generation’, but why stop there? Surely this type of fasttrack
training would appeal to anyone, of any age, who
may be considering hairdressing as a career change?
During their training they could also be come ‘social
trainees’ just as at 3•6•5 we train stylists to become ‘social
stylists’, sharing their progress and the fun and exciting
events and courses that they attend. This way they create
interest among their friends, which may even lead them to
want to go into hairdressing as a career.
Going back to your original question, you mentioned ‘a
craft that takes years to master’. Master yes, but learn to
an acceptable standard, no. Our industry has a shortage of
stylists NOW. Salons that apply outside-the-box thinking
to training will be the winners in the long term.
We need to provide fast and exciting training with
a decent level of salary as this generation learns and
provide opportunities to earn good salaries in the
future. This comes from charging higher prices,
which comes from delivering a higher quality
service, which comes from truly valuing
ourselves as professionals… if we don’t, then
sadly, you and I will be having the same
conversation for years to come.
SEE
KEN WEST
SPEAK AT
25 MARCH AT THE PARK
PLAZA, LONDON
DO YOU HAVE A BUSINESS HEADACHE YOU'D LIKE KEN TO HELP WITH?
Email him directly on KenW@365Hair.com or tweet us at @creativeheadmag
22
CREATIVE HEAD
#BusinessEdit
SELF-EMPLOYED
IS THE NEW NORM
CHAIR RENTERS AND self-employed
hairdressers and barbers now outnumber
those who are directly employed within the
industry, latest figures published by the
NHF have revealed.
A total of 57 per cent of hairdressers
and barbers were self-employed in 2017,
compared with 48 per cent the year before,
the NHF statistics published in December
showed. The percentage who were selfemployed
within beauty went down slightly,
to 54 per cent from 57 per cent, but was also
still more than half.
The role of self-employed workers in
the UK – how they can potentially be
exploited but also the effect they can have
on wages and competition – is being closely
scrutinised by the government.
Last summer it published a Review
of Modern Working Practices, which
recommended the creation of a new form
of worker, a “dependent contractor” who
would be a halfway house between being
employed and self-employed.
Budget hope for VAT
Elsewhere in the Budget, the NHF has given a
cautious welcome to the announcement that
the government will consult on the possibility
of changing the threshold for which businesses
must become registered for VAT. The threshold
currently stands at £85,000, but the NHF has
campaigned for this to be reduced to
£40,000 and the
20 per cent rate of VAT to
be reduced to 5 per
cent to create a more
level playing fi eld
between salons that
are VAT-registered and
those that are not.
BE READY!
Pensions autoenrolment
change in April
– employer’s contribution
will rise to 2 per cent;
employees’ contributions
to 3 per cent
Host Ed James, NHF president Agnes Leonard,
Melissa Timperley and Unite’s Andrew Dale
NHF CELEBRATES THE BEST
MANCHESTER’S MELISSA TIMPERLEY SALONS was among those
celebrating at the NHF’s Business Awards, Britain’s Best and Photographic
Stylist of the Year competitions, walking away with two awards and one
runner-up prize. More than 250 guests came together to see the winners of
the NHF’s first ever Business Awards being crowned at the Vox Conference
Centre in Birmingham. The awards, with 10 categories, were launched to
celebrate the NHF’s 75th anniversary. Melissa won in the Best New Business
category, plus the Male Fashion Look in Photographic Stylist of the Year. Her
apprentice, 18-year-old salon Halle Whitehead, also came third in the Britain’s
Best students and trainees Hair-up category. Full listings of the winners from
all three events can be found online at nhf.info
Sharp increases set for wages
DESPITE SALONS and barbershops already having to deal with rising
prices and uncertain consumer confidence, chancellor Philip Hammond
announced what he described as “the largest increase in youth rates in
10 years” in his Budget.
Mr Hammond said the increase in the National Living Wage would give a fulltime
worker on this rate a £600 pay increase. The increase in minimum wage
rates would give a pay boost to more than two million workers, he added.
NHF chief executive Hilary Hall expressed dismay at the increases. “We
are disappointed the government has seen fit to push ahead with such big
minimum wage increases. These increases will cause real pain for many small
business owners,” she said.
RATE CURRENT FROM APRIL 2018
National Living Wage (over 25s) £7.50 £7.83 (up 4.4 per cent)
Age 21 to 24 £7.05 £7.38 (up 4.7 per cent)
Age 18 to 20 £5.60 £5.90 (up 5.4 per cent)
Age 16 to 17 £4.05 £4.20 (up 3.7 per cent)
Apprentice* £3.50 £3.70 (up 5.7 per cent)
*The apprentice rate applies to those aged 16 to 18 training on an apprenticeship and to
those aged 19 or over who are in the first year of an apprenticeship
To find out more information and how to join the NHF, call 01234 831965 or visit nhf.info
24
CREATIVE HEAD
n target
Your targeted toolbox to help build your
salon business bigger and better, in association
with Salon iQ and the Creative HEAD Reader Panel
Methodology: survey conducted by Independent Survey Solutions in a poll of 50 salons employing four or
more staff and spread geographically across the UK
THE TARGET
PROMOTIONS THAT PULL IN REVENUE
You know the phrase – New Year, New You! –
and without a doubt January is the month that
many salons choose to target all those who
have started New Year’s resolutions, want to
turn over a new leaf and make changes with
their hair. It can be a quiet month, so the more
you can utilise your marketing tools, the more
bums on seats you’ll get!
Do you use a specialist marketing agency?
YES 26%
NO 74%
Do you employ an in-house PR or an
allocated promotions person?
YES 46%
NO 54%
Most important methods of promotion
1. INSTAGRAM
2. FACEBOOK
3. WORD OF MOUTH
AVERAGE RETAIL TURNOVER
9.21%
AVERAGE CLIENT SPEND EXC. VAT
£40.84
NEW CLIENTS ACCOUNT FOR
9.2% OF VISITS
(October 2017)
“I cannot remember life
before SMS marketing.
It shows we are serious
about what we do and
I believe it promotes our
professionalism, and
our clients have come to
rely on it, too”
KIMBERLEY LEVINE,
GREAT HAIRDRESSING & BEAUTY
ARE YOU
ON TARGET?
How was business in October
compared with September?
DECLINING
14%
STABLE
20%
GROWING
66%
How was business in October
compared with October last year?
STABLE
13%
DECLINING
7%
GROWING
80%
Salon iQ
sent 608,000
SMS in
October
2017
SNAPSHOT
90%
were read
within three
minutes of
being sent
97%
open
rate
One Salon
iQ client
sent 5,129
SMS on
4 October
A PING OF A LITTLE SMS MESSAGE CAN
HAVE A BIG IMPACT ON YOUR BOTTOM LINE
247
booked an
appointment
from this
SMS blast
9.82%
booked
£537.04
generated
(this doesn’t
include future
bookings)
The above fi gures from within six days of SMS being sent
WANT SALON IQ TO HELP YOU STAY ON TARGET? CALL ON 01892 280123 OR VISIT SALONIQ.COM
CREATIVE HEAD
25
ADDICTED TO
COLOUR
THE L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY, THE WORLD’S LONGEST RUNNING LIVE HAIR COMPETITION,
OPENS FOR ENTRIES THIS MONTH AND IS YOUR CHANCE TO BECOME THE UNDISPUTED
COLOUR CHAMPION OF THE WORLD
IT’S A MOMENT THAT’S captured for ever – the tears, the
smiles, the explosion of glitter and the all-important L’Oréal
Colour Trophy in your hands – and it’s a moment you could
experience come June this year if you enter the longestrunning
live hairdressing competition in the world.
The L’Oréal Colour Trophy puts the focus on colour and
fashion. Your challenge? To create an on-trend, beautiful
look that you can show off in your salon window – and
nationwide if you make it through the regional heats. To be
a winner, you need to be fiercely passionate about the whole
colour spectrum, have inspiration practically oozing out of
your pores and be able to colour with the best of them.
For those that want to show off their barbering skills, the
Men’s Image Award is what they need, while the Afro Award
shows off the talent behind textured hair. And for the hot
young colourist setting hues ablaze there’s the STAR Award!
The L’Oréal Colour Trophy 2018 is open for entries
on 8 January and you don’t even need to be a L’Oréal
Professionnel salon to be able to enter.
So if you think you’re the best colourist out there, prove it!
26
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
IS 2018
YOUR YEAR?
Visit
lorealcolourtrophy.com
and enter NOW!
WE WON!
LINTON & MAC, ABERDEEN
SARAH BLACK, PRINCIPAL STYLIST
“Winning L’Oréal Colour Trophy has been the most incredible experience of my career.
I joined Linton & Mac in January last year and the entry process meant I was able to work
closely with my colour team. As an experience, it’s unrivalled. I feel like this award has
made us all feel unstoppable as a brand. Linton & Mac is only two years old, so we’re all
looking forward to what the future brings us. To anyone thinking about entering, go for it –
and don’t hold back. Stay authentic to your vision and believe in yourself.”
HOW TO ENTER LCT18
1. Head to lorealcolourtrophy.com
2. BUILD your personal profi le
3. Choose your CATEGORY
4. COMPLETE your ENTRY FORM ONLINE
and upload your photo (no more than one year old)
5. Please consult full L’Oréal Colour Trophy
TERMS AND CONDITIONS before entering
6. SUBMIT your application before 26 February 2018
@lorealpro @lorealprouk /lorealprofessionnel.uk #LorealproUK #LCT18
Call 020 8762 4617 or visit lorealcolourtrophy.com for more information
27
2018 marks the 63rd year
of the longest-running live
hairdressing competition,
The L’Oréal Colour Trophy
Are you addicted to colour?
L’Oréal Professionnel is looking for the most creative
amongst you to design the ultimate, forward thinking,
inspirational, trend driven total look.
Share with us your colour addiction.
Entries open 8th January 2018, enter at*
Lorealcolourtrophy.com
Follow us
@lorealpro #lorealprouk #LCT18
*Open to UK residents aged 16+ entering as part of a salon team of no more than 4 people. Entries
must be uploaded onto www.lorealcolourtrophy.com by 26/02/18 and must use only L’Oréal
Professionnel products. Entry photos must be in colour and no more than 1 year old at the date
of entry. Winning team receives the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Award 2018 and the chance to attend
other events to include a 3-day European trip. See www.lorealcolourtrophy.com for full details and
terms and conditions. Promoter: L’Oréal Professionnel, a trading division of L’Oréal (UK) Limited.
Grand Final 2017 Show, Hair by Sklyer McDonald at SEANHANNA
TO CELEBRATE THE
TALENT ACROSS THE
AVEDA SALON NETWORK,
THE BRAND IS RUNNING A
SERIES OF #AVEDAARTIST
COMPETITIONS, WHERE
ASPIRING STYLISTS
ENTER CREATIVE IMAGES
ON INSTAGRAM FOR A
CHANCE TO WIN A SHOOT
DAY WITH THE AVEDA
ARTISTIC TEAM.
WINNERS FRANCESCA
KING, DRUE MOCK, LEAH
SMITH AND KENNY YUEN
WERE INVITED TO DIRECT
THEIR OWN SHOOT AT
AVEDA LONDON, TASKED
WITH THE THEME OF
WARRIOR BRAIDS. WHAT
WOULD THESE AVEDA
ARTISTS CREATE?
PHOTOGRAPHY
BY DANIEL SIMS
30
CREATIVE HEAD
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
CREATIVE HEAD
31
“WE’RE A NEW
SALON IN A REALLY
COOL LOCATION
IN LANCASHIRE,
AND I WANTED TO
BRING A LONDON
VIBE THERE, TO
REALLY MAKE OUR
MARK. THAT’S
WHY I ENTERED
THE #AVEDAARTIST
COMPETITION”
LEAH SMITH
THE BLONDE & THE BEARS
@LEAH3799
GO ONLINE to see all the competition
entries by searching #avedaartist
on Instagram, and visit @AvedaUK
32 CREATIVE HEAD
“THIS IS LIKE COMING TO JAM!
WE’RE INSPIRED BY EACH OTHER
– THAT’S WHY I’M DOING THIS,
AND IT’S WHY I ENTERED THE
#AVEDAARTIST COMPETITION!”
KENNY YUEN
GINA CONWAY @KENNY.Y__
HAIR Francesca King and Drue Mock, Daniel Rymer Male Grooming; Leah Smith, The Blonde & The Bears;
Kenny Yuen, Gina Conway, assisted by Kirsty Dorling-Brown for Aveda. MAKE-UP Lucy Broggio
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
“WE WANTED SOMETHING WITH
GRIT, NOTHING TOO FEMININE. WE’RE
FREESTYLING HERE, PLAYING WITH
GAME OF THRONES, VIKINGS AND
FESTIVALS FOR INSPIRATION”
DRUE MOCK AND FRANCESCA KING
DANIEL RYMER MALE GROOMING
@DRUEBOYBARBER, @FRANKING24
CREATIVE HEAD
33
WORKSHOPS
FINDING STAFF
PRESENTATIONS
SUCCESS
LIVE DEBATE
STOCK & SERVICES
REAL EXPERIENCES
PRODUCTIVITY
NEW CONNECTIONS
KEEPING CLIENTS
NON-STOP NETWORKING
Associate sponsors
TAKE CONTROL OF YOUR BUSINESS
25-26 March 2018
Park Plaza Riverbank Hotel, London
CALL TO BOOK 01434 610944
WEEKEND PASS £245* plus VAT
DOUBLE DEAL WEEKEND PASS £450** plus VAT
MONDAY PASS £100 plus VAT
For full event information visit creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart
*£50 single room supplement applies **Based on two sharing a double or twin room
In partnership with
Simon Tickler, Salon Success
Gavin Hoare, Richard Ward
Hair & Metrospa
Sarah Guild, BrandSTAND
Communications
Zoë Vears, Salon Success
Carolyn Sweeney, Creations
Matt Robinson, Mr Robinson’s Barbershop
Hari Efthymiades, Cut & Grind
Jennifer Linton & Joanna MacDonald,
Linton & Mac
Jonathan Andrew, Jamie Stevens
Andrew Mulvenna, Andrew Mulvenna
Monica Teodoro, L’Oréal Professionnel
Dale Hollinshead, Hazel & Haydn
Alan Edwards, Alan Edwards Ken West, 3•6•5 Hair
Jane Williams, Reed Hair
Tom Chapman, Tom Chapman Hair Design
In partnership with
Associate sponsors
Ky Wilson, The Social
Simon Webster
Hair
Joanna Hansford,
Jo Hansford
Sally Montague, Sally Montague Hair Group
Brooks & Brooks
Larry King, Larry King
Skyler McDonald, Skyler London
Sam McKnight
25-26 MARCH 2018, LONDON
Andrew Cannon, Ruffians
BRIGHT IDEAS, REAL EXPERIENCES
TRIED, TESTED AND TALKED ABOUT BY
REAL HAIRDRESSERS, JUST LIKE YOU.
HEAR FROM THEM ALL!
CALL TO BOOK 01434 610944
More details creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart
creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart @creativeheadmag #salonsmart18
BREATH OF
FRESH AIR
THE NEW YEAR IS THE PERFECT TIME TO TRY SOMETHING
DIFFERENT – AND CELEB LUXURY ISN’T JUST A NEW
PRODUCT RANGE, IT’S A WHOLE NEW COLOUR CATEGORY
WHAT IF WE SAID there was a kind of
colour insurance you could take out against
your client’s hair colour? Something that
keeps colour fresh, vibrant and healthy
between colour services that was so much
more than your usual wash and go?
Celeb Luxury is that insurance. Available
exclusively through Salon Success, it’s
made up of Gem Lites for traditional colour
shades and Viral for bolder hues. The
ranges promise to:
● Fight colour fade
● Protect colour from the sun and
environmental damage
● Protect from heat styling damage
● Stabilise peroxide-based colour from the
first day hair is coloured
The cruelty-free and vegan-friendly lines
feature a shampoo, conditioner and styler,
but Colorwash with Colorposit technology
is the centrepiece.
Designed to be used before or as a
replacement to a client’s usual shampoo,
Colorwash provides instant real rich or
bold colour results that clients will love.
In fact, when using the entire Gem Lites
or Viral systems, laboratory testing
results revealed:
● Reduced breakage by up to 91 per cent
● 24-hour frizz and humidity control
● Reduction in static by 95 per cent
● Heat protection from styling tools
up to 230°C
● Thermal damage was prevented
38
THE SYSTEM INCLUDES
GEM LITES SHINEWASH
GEM LITES BONDITIONER
GEM LITES CELEB SECRET FIX
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
A TRUE GEM
Gem Lites Colorwash is made up of 10
brilliant tones and three clear ones for
traditional shades. Clients will enjoy
real, rich colour and conditioned results
with reduced colour fade, and should
alternate the Shinewash with their
chosen shade of Gem Lites Colorwash.
THE SYSTEM INCLUDES
VIRAL MOISTUREWASH
VIRAL BLONDITIONER
VIRAL SMOOTHING STYLER
GO VIRAL
For those who like to go bold, Viral
Colorwash features seven extreme
colours, three pastels and three
clear tones. It creates bold colour on
prelightened hair or jewel tones on
deeper shades. Clients will enjoy a
high-lather cleanse and conditioned
results with reduced colour fade.
CELEB LUXURY IS AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY FROM SALON SUCCESS AND SALON SERVICES STRICTLY
TRADE-ONLY STORES. FOR MORE DETAILS, CALL 0845 6590011 OR VISIT SALON-SUCCESS.CO.UK
39
SHOW OF
FORCE
THE COLOR ZOOM ’18 COLLECTION FROM GOLDWELL FUSES OLD AND NEW,
RAWNESS AND REFINEMENT, TECHNOLOGY AND SIMPLICITY. AT ITS CORE IS A
DESIRE TO KNOW OUR ORIGINS AND A PRIMAL URGE TO CONNECT. IT’S ELEMENT∆L
AMAZING FASHION meets stunning hair artistry – that’s
Color Zoom. And at its heart is the Color Zoom Collection.
Designed by the global winners of the Color Zoom Challenge
together with two of Goldwell’s international artists, it
inspires stylists to push the limits of creativity.
This year, the Color Zoom ’18 Creative Team has crafted a
collection with raw edges and rough textures that harks back
to the beginnings of human life, combined with a look to the
future, propelled by technology. A new energy is created, it’s
visionary, it’s element∆l.
ELEMENTAL COLOURS
Muted pastels and rich
earthy tones overlap and
refine one another, creating
a sense of translucency.
A weathered patina forms a
muted shimmer where matte
and unpolished tones appear
beneath a luminous surface.
Moving beyond metallic
into mineral tones reveals a
variety of harmonious shades.
40 CREATIVE HEAD
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
ELEMENTAL SHAPES
A minimalistic approach
conveys sophistication with
a sense of the elemental. The
key to a precise but intuitive
look is a primal foundation
created by soft and jagged
edges. The look is completed
by handcrafted shapes that
are subtly asymmetric with
unexpected irregularities.
ELEMENTAL TEXTURE
The element∆l Collection is
influenced by the balance
created between raw and
refined elements. Skilful
texturing lends an airiness
that flows into the styling to
create a future-forward look.
CREATIVE HEAD
41
ARE YOU
READY TO BE
A STAR?
THE COLOR ZOOM CHALLENGE IS THE OPPORTUNITY
OF A LIFETIME. TAKE IT ON AND MAKE YOUR CREATIVITY
COUNT. BECOME THE STAR YOU WERE BORN TO BE…
GET
ORGANISED
THE CLOSING
DATE IS
31 MAY
42
CREATIVE HEAD
You want to be the very best at what you do – and be
recognised for it. So how can you achieve this? Enter the
Color Zoom Challenge with Goldwell. It’s one of the most
prestigious live competitions in the industry and it’s your
chance to put yourself out there and be seen by your peers.
HOW TO ENTER
You’ve seen Goldwell’s latest hair fashion collection,
element∆l, now use it for your inspiration and enter
the category that applies to you. Each country will then
reveal gold, silver and bronze winners in each of the
three categories:
NEW TALENT – Junior stylists with less than five years of
experience (excluding an apprenticeship)
CREATIVE – Stylists with more than five years of
experience (excluding an apprenticeship)
“I GOT TO MEET AND COMPETE AGAINST STYLISTS FROM
AROUND THE WORLD, WHICH WAS INCREDIBLE. IT IS
SOMETHING I’LL NEVER FORGET – IT’S REALLY BOOSTED
MY CONFIDENCE AND HELPED TO INSPIRE ME FURTHER
WHEN WORKING WITH CLIENTS IN THE SALON”
LYDIA WOLFE FROM TONY WOOD HAIRDRESSING, THE
STYLISTS’ FAVOURITE AWARD WINNER IN THE NEW TALENT
CATEGORY AT GLOBAL ZOOM ’17
“THE COLOR ZOOM EXPERIENCE HAS MADE ME MORE
PASSIONATE ABOUT WHAT I DO AND I LOVE THAT I CAN
BRING ELEMENTS OF WHAT I LEARNT BACK TO MY SALON.
PEOPLE ARE ALSO MORE AWARE OF MY SALON AS A BRAND”
CAROLINE BRAND FROM ORACLE HAIR AND BEAUTY, BRONZE
WINNER IN THE CREATIVE CATEGORY AT GLOBAL ZOOM ’17
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
PARTNER – For stylists who are currently working or have
been working with Goldwell as a freelancer, trainer or
active representative in the past two years
All national gold winners qualify for the live final at
Global Zoom, which this year is being held in Toronto,
Canada. National winners can expect to raise their profile
and take their career to the next level, with heaps of
promotion in the press and online. The global winner
announced at Global Zoom will get a career and image
boost befitting a recognised top international stylist.
They’ll get publicity in national and global press and in
an extensive social media campaign, as well as becoming
part of the Color Zoom Creative Team that creates a
future Color Zoom Collection.
TO ENTER
DOWNLOAD YOUR
BRIEFING KIT AT
GOLDWELL.CO.UK/
COLOR-ZOOM-18
Lydia Wolfe with Goldwell’s John Moroney
THE NEXT STEPS
• Download your briefing kit at goldwell.co.uk/color-zoom-18
• Check out the current collection, element∆l, and make it your own
• Choose a model and the styling
• Create your look and do a photoshoot
• Fill out and send back the entry form by 31 May
• National winners will be announced in July 2018 and Global Zoom
takes place in Toronto on 30 September 2018
Keep up-to-date with the latest competition news by following @GoldwellUK
#Takethechallenge, #Colorzoom on Instagram, Twitter and Facebook
CREATIVE HEAD 43
2017
THE END
OF THE
YEAR
SHOW
WELCOME TO OUR REVIEW OF THE YEAR – WE’VE CONDENSED
ALL THE MOST IMPORTANT ACTION OF THE PAST 12 MONTHS
INTO BITE-SIZED SECTIONS SO THAT YOU CAN GET YOUR
FIX OF THE TRENDS, BRANDS, PEOPLE, PRODUCTS AND
MOMENTS THAT MADE A DIFFERENCE IN 2017
HEY, BIG SPENDERS!
BIG BUSINESS MAKES MOVES
Coty Inc, which in 2016 bought Wella
Professionals and 42 of P&G’s other hair,
perfume and make-up businesses for
$12.5bn (£9.7bn), doubled down with a
£420m takeover of ghd, cementing its
newfound presence in hair.
Meanwhile Henkel acquired
Shiseido’s North American
professional hair care
business – adding brands
such as Joico and Zotos
Professional to its portfolio.
GREAT EXPECTATIONS
SOPHIA HILTON – NOT ANOTHER SALON
When she went to get her hair done in West
London she didn’t feel posh enough, and when
she went to the East End she didn’t feel cool
enough. So, at the age of 27, Sophia Hilton
launched Not Another Salon on London’s Brick
Lane, complete with Wagon Wheels, GameBoys
and a ‘no judgement’ policy designed to take
the fear out of going to the salon.
What happened next was remarkable.
Sophia’s Hidden Rainbow hair became an
internet sensation, a 55-second video about
the salon team went viral on Facebook, 184,000
Instagram followers have signed up to see
more of Not Another Salon’s high-end bleeds,
and there was a three-month waiting list for
an appointment. This year Sophia led the
charge on a “colour pandemic”, articulating
a growing malaise among colourists that
retouched images on Instagram create
unrealistic expectations about what’s possible
in a normal salon appointment. “Not only am
I coming up against those challenges in the
salon, but all over the world as I run a colour
academy across six countries,” she
says. “Everywhere I see the same
issues: hairdressers struggling to
keep their heads above water.”
By speaking out, Sophia
hopes more colourists will
feel empowered to raise their
voices on the subject, too.
“I’d like to see more salons
educating their clients as
often as possible across
social media,” she
says. “I believe we
have the power
to create enough
content to change
this and teach
clients about the
realities of what
is going on.”
Take that,
world!
44
Bruce Masefiield Hair
SPLIT DECISIONS
PARTING WAYS IN 2017
When Josh Wood moved to Redken
in the spring of 2017 (exclusively
revealed in Creative HEAD), he ended
an official alliance with Wella that had
lasted a decade. In his new role as
Redken’s global color creative director,
Wood has teamed up with session god
Guido Palau to set trends that will
influence looks worldwide. The new
partnership was celebrated in a
packed-out gathering of Creative
HEAD’s The Coterie. In other
moves, Bruce Masefield quit
as European creative director at
Sassoon to open his own salon
in Edinburgh; Hereford’s
Peter Prosser retired
after 53 years in the
industry; and Angelo
Vallillo left Zullo &
Holland to launch a
salon/art space with
former RUSH creative,
Dale Hearne. More
details to come…
SEE
KY WILSON
SPEAK AT
25 MARCH AT THE PARK
PLAZA, LONDON
WUNDERKIND OF THE YEAR
KY WILSON, THE SOCIAL
Is there anybody who hasn’t heard of Ky Wilson? The 28-yearold
self-confessed loudmouth is setting the industry alight
with his pop-up salons, creative collaborations and forthright
opinions (social media being a particular favourite: “Stop
trying to be so f**king famous”). It’s an approach that has
seen his profile grow exponentially – as a blogger, barber,
session stylist and creative thinker, culminating in him being
named Creative HEAD’s It Guy of 2017. From cutting hair
on the streets of London to Northern Soul dancing onstage –
Ky’s done it all, with style. We can’t wait to see what’s next.
2017
2017
WINNER
THE IT GUY
45
Luke Benson
2017
THE END
OF THE
YEAR
SHOW
JOBS FOR THE BOYS
(AND GIRLS?)
A GREAT BARBER DEBATE
We all know that male grooming is booming, with more
barbershops opening on the British high street right now
than any other kind of independent business. But when
Creative HEAD’s Coterie club debated the changing
needs of the male client, we had no idea we’d cause such
a stir. Panellist Johnny Baba’s controversial approach to
barbershop culture started it – throughout his five Barber
Barber shops, he operates a ‘no women’ policy (including
staff) so, he says, “men can feel comfortable being men.”
According to Johnny, many of his customers are still
“traditional men”, with minimal interest in other grooming
practices. Fellow panellist and male grooming expert Luke
Benson disagreed. “Masculinity isn’t one thing,” he argued.
“Johnny, I bet loads of your ‘traditionally masculine’ clients
shave their balls and you just don’t know it!”
“That mirror my dad looked into and knew he was ‘a man’
has shattered now,” said grooming journalist Lee Kynaston,
citing Unilever’s marketing U-turn for mega-brand Lynx
as an example of the mainstream rejecting ‘laddish’
stereotypes. “One of the best things I’ve read about modern
masculinity is by artist Grayson Perry, who said: ‘We need to
think of masculinity like a piece of equipment. Some men,
like soldiers, need it all the time, others might need it at the
weekend and others not at all.’”
PEOPLE POWER
GENDER FLUIDITY
Maybelline’s Big Shot mascara campaign features a model with
impeccable eye make-up, thick eyelashes and… well-groomed
stubble. In 2017 Manny Gutierrez became just the second man to
be chosen as the face for a make-up advertisement (the first being
James Charles for Covergirl). “Make-up is genderLESS and has no
rules,” Manny tells his millions of social media followers.
That men can be the face of a global make-up brand and that
John Lewis can remove boy’s and girl’s labels from children’s
clothing in a bid to reduce “gender stereotypes” underlines how
diversity is seen as increasingly powerful. It’s making itself
felt in our industry, too. Gender fluid model Sara Cummings
was featured as a brand muse for Redken; Fudge Professional
partnered with session stylist Lisa Farrall on work
celebrating traditionally feminine-targeted mousse
on a beautifully androgynous model, and KMS
celebrated a ‘genderless grooming’ campaign.
Meanwhile, gender-neutral pricing in
Not Another Salon (“I’ve got girls with
skinheads and boys with hair down to their
backsides, so to me, it’s clear. I should be
pricing on the job – not what’s in their
pants,” says owner Sophia Hilton) and RoCo
in
Derry may well make traditional pricing based
on gender feel out out-dated.
Not Another Salon
46
PURSUIT OF
PERFECTION
AWARDS
AND THE WINNERS ARE…
LARRY KING,
SOUTH KENSINGTON
BARN//IT, MANCHESTER
RADIO LONDON HAIR
SALON AND GALLERY,
KINGS CROSS
SKYLER LONDON,
WANDSWORTH
TINT, LEEDS
HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO YOU!
Electric
Hairdressing
Tangle
Teezer
ghd
Spirit Hair Company
Obsessions
Salon and Spa
Westrow
Charles
Worthington
Crazy Color
Kent Brushes
2017
THE END
OF THE
YEAR
SHOW
#COLORFULHAIR by L’Oréal Professionnel
SPECTACULAR COLOUR
FROM NATURAL TO SUPERNATURAL
Prismatic, electric, glow-in-the-dark… in 2017, colour trends shifted from
natural to supernatural. From Bowie Blorange to dark denim; neon-brights
to icy whites; shades of peach and salmon sushi through to balayage in
every colour under the rainbow – 2017 was the year when non-natural
hair colour came out of the DIY closet and hit the mainstream. Kenra
ambassador and YouTube sensation Guy Tang even came up with UV hair
colour – that’s right, colour that glows when it’s under black light (surely a
must for any club kid).
Big brand names happily fuelled the trend – L’Oréal Professionnel’s
#COLORFULHAIR in-salon semi-permanent colour service offered clients
thousands of colour permutations, and City Beats from Redken delivered 12
vibrant shades inspired by the streets of NYC with model Chloe Nørgaard.
With fantasy shades in full swing, it wasn’t long before people turned to
science-fiction. Metallic shades in cool silvers and iridescent purples gave
us a glimpse of the future, with Majirel Metals by L’Oréal Professionnel,
Color Intensity Metallic Muse collection by Joico and Crazy Color veered
(slightly) away from its bold roots with its four high-shine metallic shades.
Even punk favourites Manic Panic unveiled a professional-only line of
colour. It’s official – the unicorn is alive and well…
THE BIG ISSUES
WORKING CONDITIONS
Hairdressing remains one of the most
vibrant and creative industries in which
to work. But there are key challenges
that will continue to set the agenda.
The first is recruitment; An NHF
survey revealed four out of every five
hair and beauty employers were finding
it ‘difficult’ or ‘very difficult’ to find and
recruit qualified and experienced staff,
especially in more rural locations.
Wage bills were also a worry: the
biggest single cost for salons which
were also hit with the additional
costs of pension auto-enrolment,
new compulsory contributions to
apprenticeship training and increases to
National Minimum and Living Wages.
Finally, self-employment continues
to be a growing trend, with the NHF’s
statistics showing 57 per cent of those
working in hairdressing and barbering
are now self-employed. Because staff
carry so many additional employmentrelated
costs, businesses are finding it
increasingly hard to compete.
48
THE YEAR OF
JOHNNY BABA
LUKE BENSON
JESSICA DINER
ERROL DOUGLAS MBE
JOSHUA GOLDSWORTHY
SARAH GUILD
SAMANTHA HILLERBY
LEE KYNASTON
CHRISTEL LUNDQVIST
NICOLA MOULTON
GUIDO PALAU
LIZ PUGH
MATT ROBINSON
OLLY SMITH
JODY TAYLOR
KY WILSON
JOSH WOOD
With special thanks to our Coterie
event sponsors: American Crew,
BaByliss PRO, Redken and TIGI
49
Kate Moss for Vogue, by Nick Knight
Kate Moss by Patrick Demarchelier
Sam with Linda Evangelista, by Laspata Decaro
Tilda Swinton for Italian Vogue, by Craig McDean
Sam with Vogue’s Edward Enninful
MY 2017, BY SAM MCKNIGHT
A YEAR IN THE LIFE OF AN ICON
“It has been such a momentous year for me. I had my ‘Hair by Sam McKnight’ exhibition
at Somerset House – I was incredibly honoured that my work would be the subject of an
exhibition. At first I was a little apprehensive – did I have enough content to warrant a full
exhibition? Curator Shonagh Marshall was able to go through my archive and pull out
some great pieces that told a story spanning 40 years. The look and immersive experience
of the exhibition was designed by the brilliant Michael Howells, with whom I have worked
for many years on numerous shoots for Vogue. I was overwhelmed by the generosity of
the photographers, designers and magazines that I have work with whom contributed so
much to the exhibition, including Chanel, Vivienne Westwood and other creatives.
“What became evident was how important hair can be in the making of creative images
and I think the exhibition and the accompanying book, Hair by Sam McKnight, went
some way to achieve this, and to elevate the hair industry as a whole. I’ve been blown
away by the great response that I’ve had to the exhibition, especially from hairdressers;
the messages of support have been incredibly humbling and very much appreciated.
“Meanwhile, at the same time as planning and executing the book and exhibition,
I was working away behind the scenes on creating my own hair products. Again, this
was an entirely new journey for me and I learnt so much in the process, from how to
formulate a product to packaging, distribution and beyond. I decided to launch with
four styling products and these hit the shelves in Liberty of London in June, and are
now stocked on my own site and at Net-A-Porter. The range is a culmination of all my
years in hairdressing, I think it was Vogue who called it ‘Sam in a can’, and these styling
products are my go-to backstage favourites. I was determined to create a range that could
help women to get the hair they want, that they can easily do themselves and from the
feedback I’ve had so far, I think I’ve just about nailed it. When I was developing
50
Fendi S/S17
Karlie Kloss for Vogue, by Patrick Demarchelier
2017
THE END
OF THE
YEAR
SHOW
Pages from Hair by Sam McKnight, published by Rizzoli
the range I was fortunate enough to work with an amazing perfumer, Lyn Harris, and
she created a beautiful fragrance based on my garden in the rain, which I have used
across the range. My team and I first used the products at Fashion Week – the signature
scent fragranced the backstage area and everyone commented on how wonderful and
fresh it was, which was a lovely bonus! Right now, I’m developing new products to add
to the range...
“All of this has taken place against the backdrop of my day-to-day work as a session
stylist and I am so lucky to work with such a remarkable bunch of talented people.
Fashion Week continues to inspire me and Team McKnight, my brilliant crew who work
tirelessly supporting me through shoots and especially the shows. I’ve worked with
Chanel now for nine years, and the genius that is Karl Lagerfeld always gives us fresh
challenges in a new way each season at Chanel and Fendi, and I love the fact that after all
these years, I’m still learning.
“I can’t end without talking about awards. This year, my Hair by Sam McKnight range
has been nominated for and won six beauty awards including Tatler, Grazia, Powder,
Glamour, Harper’s Bazaar and Marie Claire, which I find mind-boggling seeing as it was
only launched in June. And then of course, receiving the Hair Icon award at this year’s
Creative HEAD Most Wanted Awards was the icing on the cake. It’s such a wonderful
feeling to be recognised by my peers and there was so much love, support and passion in
evidence that night.
“It’s been a rollercoaster year for me, that’s for sure, but two key things have kept me
strong. The wonderful Team McKnight, which has been behind me every step of the way
and to whom I am enormously thankful. The other is my garden, and for those of you who
follow me on Instagram (@sammcknight1), you’ll know that this is where you’ll find me
when I’m not working. I get home, open the garden door and I am transported to
a different world, where I can retreat, relax and spend time
thinking about what I hope to achieve in 2018.”
SEE SAM
MCKNIGHT AT
25 MARCH AT THE PARK
PLAZA, LONDON
Gisele Bündchen by Alexei Hay
51
WELL
HELLO,
2018!
LOOKING GOOD! HERE’S WHAT TO GET
EXCITED ABOUT IN THE YEAR AHEAD
The Maxi Perm by Hershesons
THE PERM IS BACK
REHABILITATION OF A CLASSIC
Thirty years is a long time for a style to suffer for crimes
it committed back in the ’80s. Yes, there were some
unfortunate moments – Kevin Keegan springs to mind –
but Cher, Julia Roberts, Jennifer Beals and even Justin
Timberlake proved that a perm can be cool and certainly
no barrier to global megastar status. And now the perm is
coming back, says the team at Hershesons.
The trick is to forget everything you already knew
about perms. The new Maxi Perm – wound on long rubber
rods rather than perm rollers and delivering full-on,
unapologetically big and lively curls like Carrie Bradshaw
in the first series of Sex and the City – looks great with a
simple, longer shape and needs no mousse to style it – oils
and creams help the hair feel softer and more believable.
And then there’s the braid perm. Designed by Hershesons
technician Lily Bunting-Branch, the 2018 perm is for those
with fine, lifeless, hard-to-manage hair. She says: “We
use traditional perming lotions with high-grade organic
formulations that are kinder to the hair – but apply them to
braids versus rollers or rods. The result is super-soft loose
waves that alter the texture of the hair, making it look fuller
and thicker and easier to style.”
52
HOB Salons
A BETTER YOU
GO BACK TO SCHOOL
Whether you choose education or a fresh opportunity
with another salon, 2018 is the year to better
yourself… and there are plenty of chances to do just
that. No time to leave the salon and hit a classroom?
Head online to Access by L’Oréal Professionnel
(lorealaccess.com/uk). Access is the brand’s all-new
online learning hub that allows you to learn whenever
you want, wherever you are. Access enables you to
learn at a place and time that is convenient for you
and it’s available to all salons!
If you do have time to leave the salon, you must
visit the new RUSH Academy in London’s Covent
Garden. And if you’re looking to open your horizons
and experience new opportunities – from franchising
to stage work – but you want the support of a
successful group behind you, HOB Salons is on the
look out for talented individuals.
TAKING THE INDUSTRY SERIOUSLY…
Despite contributing a cool £17 billion a year
to the British economy, there has been no
comprehensive representation of the specific
needs and voices of the beauty industry.
As a result, we are an industry that is still
not taken seriously, and which is facing the
biggest recruitment crisis in its history.
Now a team of high-profile industry
figures has established the British Beauty
Council, with the aim of ensuring the beauty
industry and its innovation, reputation and
education can be recognised and valued at
all levels: in government, through the wider
economy and by consumers.
Spearheaded by BeautyMART’s Millie
Kendall MBE and Anna-Marie Solowij,
alongside beauty journalist Kate Shapland,
the British Beauty Council board includes
Talk PR chief executive Jane Boardman,
Creative HEAD publisher Catherine
Handcock and This Works founder Kathy
Phillips, supported by expert-led groups
representing all sectors.
“Our priority in 2018 is to improve the
reputation of the beauty industry as a
profession, ensuring we attract a steady
stream of high-quality candidates in the
future,” says Catherine Handcock.
See more at britishbeautycouncil.com
ONE TO WATCH…
PROSTYLES HAIR EXTENSIONS
ProStyles – the extensions brand that
hails from the original and iconic Antenna
salon in Kensington – is throwing down
the gauntlet in 2018, with new owners, a
new logo and a new campaign. And we
love it! Creative HEAD favourite (and
former It List double winner) Leigh
Keates teamed up with extensions expert
Stephanie Stevenson to create these
brilliant images that showcase the range
of colours and the natural movement
that you can expect from ProStyles’
synthetic and real hair. Already stocked
in more than 400 salons across the UK
and Ireland, expect lots more from this
exciting brand… check out Creative
HEAD’s February issue to see more from
Leigh and Stephanie’s fantastic shoot!
ProStyles
53
Cool Girl Waves
WELL
HELLO,
2018!
UNDER THE INFLUENCE
ZOË IRWIN LIFTS THE LID ON HER NEW PROJECT
“I first developed The Influence Project to educate
stylists on references, style tribes, eras and trend
movements, and it’s a concept that I’ve been
teaching for the ghd Style Squad teams.
“The more I realised how little was understood
by hairdressers about trends, such as early ’90s
hip-hop (which was being referenced constantly in
magazines they aspired to shoot with), the more it
spurred me on to create fresh education to enable
them to work with the references that are given in
the fashion world.
“This is a collaboration with Helen Charlton-
Jones and Lauren Smith from That Girl That Edits,
and we've brought the project to life by creating
a series of films that show a fun, youthful look
at different styles and trends. Each film takes a
different influence and explores it visually with a
‘how to’, and slips into the world of the character.
The videos were shot simply and in bare studios.
“Each look is chosen by its different influence.
There are looks that have influenced a decade of
editorial like Cali Skate Girl in my Cool Girl Waves
film. We’re always talking about ‘undone surfy
waves’ in fashion, so we brought in a skater girl
and looked at the influence of the hair in detail.
“Cross Braiding shows influence from the
session stylist greats… it’s about one hairdresser
being influenced by another. This is the hair from
a Maison Margiela show by Eugene Souleiman,
possibly one of the most copied and influential
hairdressers of my time. It was one of the most
reposted images from the shows, and I thought I
bet hundreds of hairdressers would love to know
how to attempt this!
“There are new ideas like Punk Stitching,
influenced directly by fashion. We were sewing
words onto our T-shirts, why not customise our
hair? So you see the punk girl and we sew the
words “not dead” into her hair.
“Then there are session tricks, like adding
fringes to hair, that I knew would be fun to film.
For example, the Gucci fringe in upcoming Retro
Mundane finds its heritage in ’80s American high
school hair. I hope this project excites hairdressers
to look further into the references of a style.”
Punk Stitching
54
Cross Braiding
KEEP IT FRESH
ZOË’S TIPS ON LOOKING FOR INFLUENCES TO UPDATE YOUR WORK
1. Know what’s going on around you – it’s easy these days with
so much information available. You can sign up for daily emails
from sites such as Refinery29, Broadly, WGSN, Business of
Fashion, and you will then get a daily feed of concepts and ideas.
2. Exhibitions create huge influence in trends, so make sure
you go to all of the key ones – take your team and build a project
around it. Or get together a great film list and turn it into an art
team project – this is when exciting things happen.
3. At the end of the day it’s about opening up the minds
of others. Artist Jean-Michel Basquiat said: “Influence is not
influence, it is simply someone’s idea going through my new
mind”. The more you look at influences, the more your mind
will be creative. Change your daily social feed and go out and
view as much as possible.
'90s Supermodel
SEE MORE from Zoe Irwin and
The Infl uence Project online at
creativeheadmag.com/education
55
WELL
HELLO,
2018!
LAUNCH PAD
FIRE UP THE INNOVATION ROCKETS – THESE ARE THE NINE NEW RETAIL AND
SERVICE IDEAS THAT HAVE US ALL HOT UNDER THE COLLAR
Promising unicorn colours that fade
true to tone, Color Fresh Create from
Wella Professionals delivers 12 shades
(and one clear) of direct dyes that coat
the hair and last up to 20 washes. The
rainbow is real…
In-salon service; wella.com
New to the UK, Celeb Luxury is a
two-strong ‘colour insurance’, with
Gem Lites for traditional colour shades
and Viral for bolder hues. Colorwash
with Colorposit technology is the
centrepiece, for bold colour results.
RRP from £16.95, salon-success.co.uk
Skincare continues to
influence the world of
hair, and we’re here for
it! In February, Redken
is unveiling a world
first in professional hair
care – the All Soft Mega
Recovery Sheet Mask,
perfect for women who
struggle with dry, puffy
and fluffy hair!
RRP £12, redken.co.uk
Schwarzkopf Professional has
got three A-list colourists and
three hair influencers to create
six IGORA ROYAL colours
as part of a #RoyalTakeOver.
The UK’s Lesley Jennison
and Brazilian colour
specialist Jean Philippe
Santos are up first…
In-salon service,
schwarzkopfprofessional.co.uk
Redken is a busy bee –
Shades EQ has four new
pastel shades and two
new silver shades fronted
by Vogue’s Sarah Harris.
With technique driving
the market, Redken is also
launching a Shades EQ
Blending Bar in salons
nationwide, to offer
trending techniques.
In-salon service, redken.co.uk
Offer tailor-made
highlights in half
the time with new
Instant Highlights
from L’Oréal
Professionnel, its
first professional
heat-boosted
lightening system
that will halve
service time, out in
February.
In-salon service,
lorealprofessionnel.
Take inspiration from skin care’s
‘multi-masking’ trend is The Circle
Chronicles from Davines, a line of five
scalp and hair masks designed to solve
specific needs. Detoxify the scalp, but
moisturise the lengths? It can all be
done with these cute sachets.
RRP £7.90 each, davines.com
Coming this spring, Pure Pigments
from Goldwell will help you build a
brilliant glow for your colour clients,
delivering an almost holographic
effect. It’s lots of fun and really tests
your creativity.
In-salon service, goldwell.com
The boffins at Affinage have created
something for control freaks –
enter Colour Your Way in either
powder or liquid to thicken with
no impact on lift or pH.
In-salon service, affinage.com
56
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
YOUR FUTURE AWAITS
HOB SALONS IS DEDICATED TO HELPING YOU ACHIEVE YOUR CAREER GOALS. WHETHER YOU WANT TO
WIN AWARDS, OWN A SALON OR TRY YOUR HAND AT STAGE WORK, JOINING HOB WILL GET YOU THERE
THOSE OF US that are lucky enough to work in this
amazing industry know that hairdressing is not just a job;
it’s a doorway to some of the best career opportunities and
experiences in the world.
But whether you’ve got a goal in mind or you need some
inspiration as to where your hairdressing career could
take you, where do you start? HOB Salons is the perfect
springboard. It has a solid track record of encouraging and
developing its staff to become the very best that they can be –
and now the salon group wants you!
WHAT ARE YOUR CAREER GOALS?
● Perhaps you want to own your own salon?
● Be an in-demand salon star?
● Travel the world?
● Win awards?
● Educate future talent?
JOIN HOB!
HOB SALONS WOULD LOVE
TO HEAR FROM ANY NEW OR
ESTABLISHED TALENT, EMAIL
JOBS@HOBSALONS.COM
Developing talent and helping people to achieve their goals is
part of the HOB Salons company ethos – so whatever you’re
aiming for, you know that HOB can help you achieve it.
WE ACHIEVED OUR GOALS!
THE MANAGERS
SIMON BARKER & LAURA GLEN,
SALON MANAGERS
Simon joined HOB Salons as a stylist in 1999
Laura joined as a receptionist in 2004
“Although we joined at diff erent
times, we both had the goal of
achieving manager status and,
with the support of HOB, we’ve
worked our way to managing
one of the largest and busiest
salons in the group, which
we’re very proud of.”
THE COLOUR CREATIVE
SEAN NOLAN,
HEAD OF TECHNICAL
Joined HOB as a senior colour tech in 2012
“I started my career with
another salon, but HOB
had the opportunities for
development I wanted.
Through the HOB Jamm
training programme, I grew my
portfolio and am now head of
technical for all the collections,
shows and stage work.”
THE AWARD WINNER
JAKE UNGER,
SENIOR EDUCATOR
Joined HOB Salons as an apprentice in 2008
“After working my way up
from apprentice to senior
educator at HOB, I’ve been
given the opportunity to win
international trophies, teach at
the Academy and present on
stages all over the world. It’s
been hard work, but 100 per
cent worth it.”
THE SALON STAR
AMELIA EVANS,
STYLE DIRECTOR
Joined HOB Salons as a stylist in 2015
“Soon after joining, I attended
a HOB Build Your
Column course, which
helped me to become one of
the most in-demand stylists
here. I also enjoy teaching
in the Academy, but get my
main buzz from making clients
feel fabulous.”
Achieve your career goals with HOB Salons. To find out more, visit hobsalons.com
CREATIVE HEAD
57
EXPRESS
YOURSELF!
IF 2017 TAUGHT YOUR CLIENTS ANYTHING, IT’S TO
NOT BE AFRAID TO EXPERIMENT WITH THEIR HAIR
COLOUR. NOW THE LAUNCH OF NEW COLOR FRESH
CREATE FROM WELLA PROFESSIONALS MEANS THEY
CAN DARE TO BE DIFFERENT – AND ENJOY FULL
CREATIVITY AND FREEDOM TO CHANGE – AS THEY
JUMP INTO THE NEW YEAR
FUTURE YELLOW, HYPER CORAL, NEVERSEEN GREEN. MEET THE GATEWAY
SHADES OF THE NEW HAIR COLOUR SPECTRUM. UNTIL RECENTLY, SALON
COLOURISTS HAD TO CUSTOM-CREATE SHADES LIKE THESE, BUT AS DEMAND
HAS GROWN, SO HAS INNOVATION. NEW COLOR FRESH CREATE FROM COTY’S
WELLA PROFESSIONALS IS A SEMI-PERMANENT COLOUR RANGE THAT NOT ONLY
DELIVERS BOLD SHADES RIGHT OUT OF THE TUBE, BUT THEY FADE TRUE TO
TONE, SO YOU CAN GET REALLY, REALLY CREATIVE WITH YOUR SALON COLOUR.
CASE IN POINT: OPAL BALAYAGE, HOLOGRAPHIC FADES, AND, WELL, YOU NAME IT.
JUST LOOK AT THE COLOUR MAGIC FROM THESE FIVE #COLORCREATORS!
58 CREATIVE HEAD
Before
Pre-lightened with Blondor freelights + 12% & Wellaplex. Color Fresh Create:
All neat: High Magenta, Ultra Purple, Super Petrol, Hyper Coral.
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
#colorcreators
CLAYDE BAUMANN
WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOUR CLUB MEMBER
If I could work with one person, it would be…
Karl Lagerfeld. He’s my fashion hero. I love
his taste and style and I admire the way he has
extended everything he does to his personal life.
The one piece of advice I would pass on to a
young colourist…
On the one hand, make sure you stay true
to everything you have learned. But in
remembering it all don’t let anyone mould
you into something you are not.
The skill colourists should learn that isn’t
about hair…
The power of observation and the ability to stay
aware of your surroundings. So many people
walk down the road and never look above their
immediate eye line.
COLOR FRESH CREATE IS…
“Fun, innovative
and colourful!”
CLAYDE BAUMANN
The most colourful place I’ve been to is…
My home country – South Africa. It has every
possible climate and natural setting you can
imagine. We have forest, jungle, beaches,
deserts, farmland, cornfields… it’s so diverse.
The colour that best encapsulates me is…
Yellow. I identify yellow as an energetic, positive
colour that gives energy and happiness. It’s a
very good carrier of those emotions and I am
drawn to that.
CREATIVE HEAD
59
Freehand painted Blondor Freelights +9% & Wellaplex. Illumina Color 6/16, 5/02, 5/81.
Color Fresh Create: All neat: Super Petrol, Never Seen Green, New Blue.
#colorcreators
JAYSON GRAY
WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOUR CLUB MEMBER
Three places that are guaranteed sources
of inspiration…
1. I am always very happy browsing in old
book shops.
2. My partner’s sewing box. He’s a menswear
designer and when he’s placing layers of fabric
together it’s great to watch.
3. Kitchen shops! I’ve got an obsession with
crockery, pots and pans, and I love chrome and
glass and anything that has a dispensary vibe.
The one piece of advice I would pass on to a
young colourist…
Always look under the door mat. Don’t be afraid
of who you are and always be the maverick,
never the victim.
The skill colourists should learn that isn’t
about hair…
Mathematics. When you really think about it,
maths and science dominate colour.
The formula to my colour career so far…
Free expression + strategy + mathematics = me!
COLOR FRESH CREATE IS…
“Bold, beautiful
and brilliant!”
JAYSON GRAY
The colour that best encapsulates me is…
Grey, of course! Any shade of grey. If you are born
with a colour as your name, you must embrace it.
Before
60 CREATIVE HEAD
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
Before
#colorcreators
ROBERT EATON
WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOUR CLUB MEMBER
My wish at the end of the rainbow…
Honestly, it’s very simple – just happiness with
my family.
Three places that are guaranteed sources
of inspiration…
1. My salon. My team are so creative and never
fail to inspire me.
2. Travel is a great way to boost my energy
and generate new fresh ideas – there isn’t
one country that particularly inspires me, just
anywhere new and interesting!
3. From a business perspective, I love being in
amazing hotels and restaurants because we can
really learn from the way other industries treat
their customers.
If I could work with one person, it would be…
Trevor Sorbie MBE. He’s a legend.
The skill colourists should learn that isn’t
about hair…
Communication. In salon work, getting a clients’
hair colour completely bespoke and right for
them is a case of talking the same language
and understanding exactly what they want from
their visit. One person’s interpretation of ‘light
blonde’ is will be completely different to the
next person’s.
The colour that best encapsulates me is…
Blue. It’s a strong but calm colour, and I like that.
COLOR FRESH CREATE IS…
“Creative, flexible
and exciting!”
ROBERT EATON
CREATIVE HEAD 61
Pre-lightened with Blondor Cream & 6% + Wellaplex. Toner 10/16, 9/16 Koleston Perfect & Pastel. Color Fresh Create:
Mixed 1:1 with Tomorrow Clear – Nu-Dist Pink. Mixed 1:30 with Tomorrow Clear – Next Red & High Magenta.
COLOR FRESH CREATES
THE LOWDOWN
A TRUE CREATIVE SEMI-PERMANENT COLOUR CREAM, WHICH
FADES TRUE TO TONE OVER TIME AND PASTELISES DURING
EACH WASH, WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOR FRESH CREATE
LASTS UP TO 20 WASHES, GRADUALLY FADING INTO BEAUTIFUL
SOFT PASTEL HUES THANKS TO CAREFULLY SELECTED DYES
THAT AVOID AN OFF-TONE FADE. ITS AMMONIA-, FRAGRANCE-
AND PEROXIDE-FREE PRECISION CREAM FORMULA ENABLES
CONTROLLED APPLICATION AND UNLIMITED COLOURING
TECHNIQUES, MEANING YOU CAN MAKE YOUR CLIENTS FEEL
AS UNIQUE AS YOUR LATEST CREATION!
62
63
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
Pre-lightened with Blondor Soft Blonde Cream + 6% and Wellaplex.
Toned with Color Touch Instamatics Muted Mauve 1.9%. Color Fresh
Create: Mixed 1:1 with Tomorrow Clear – Ultra Purple & Pure Violet.
Before
COLOR FRESH CREATE IS…
“Cool, playful
and dynamic!”
CLAIRE CHELL
#colorcreators
CLAIRE CHELL
WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOUR CLUB MEMBER
Three places that are guaranteed sources
of inspiration…
1. Africa – it is so colourful in so many ways.
2. A colour run. I love running and a colour
run is when you run through an explosion of
colour powders. By the end of the run you are
completely covered!
3. Milan Fashion Week. They don’t play it safe in
Milan and are more likely to deliver the shock
factor. It’s definitely a place to predict trends.
I couldn’t work without…
Wella Professionals Illumina Color. It is the core
product for my classic clientele.
If I could work with one person, it would be…
It would honestly be all of the Colour Club. I am
so lucky that I get the luxury of working with my
icons – they are all incredible colourists.
The one piece of advice I would pass on
to a young colourist…
Never lose your colour identity.
Be true to yourself.
The most colourful place
I’ve been to is…
Sri Lanka. There was a big
festival when I was there last with
costumes, flames and elephants –
the vibe was incredible.
64
COLOR FRESH CREATE IS…
“Fresh, innovative
and free!”
SEAN NOLAN
Freehand painted Blondor Freelights and 12% + Wellaplex.
Roots: 7/43, 6/37, 8/05 combined with 6. Color Fresh Create: Mixed
1:20 with Tomorrow Clear – Nu-Dist Pink, Next Red & Hyper Coral.
#colorcreators
SEAN NOLAN
WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOUR CLUB MEMBER
Three places that are guaranteed sources
of inspiration…
1. Southbank in London. I go there all the
time and on each visit I take inspiration from
something different. It is so exciting and vibrant.
2. Berlin. There’s a real sense of the past meets
the future in Berlin, and I think that’s really
important at the moment.
3. Fader magazine and website. I feel like young
urban multiculturalism is where it’s at right now.
The one piece of advice I would pass on to a
young colourist…
Being a good colourist means learning from the
mistakes that you make.
The skill colourists should learn that isn’t
about hair…
An insight into cultural history, because it gives
you a reference. It is something a lot of people
don’t have: the ability to delve deeper into a
concept or idea and develop it.
The most colourful place I’ve been to is…
Grenada. The people there are such colourful
characters – in a very understated way.
The colour that best encapsulates me is…
Right now at this stage of my life – pink! It’s a
colour that you either love or hate, and it’s very
transient. Pink can be all out and very bold, or
soft and subtle.
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
Before
For more about Wella Professionals Color Fresh CREATE, call 0845 7045775 or visit wella.com
65
Casey Coleman
Johanna Cree-Brown
Adam Slama
Zoë Irwin
HAPPY NEW YEAR!
JOIN CREATIVE HEAD AND AN ALL-STAR LINE-UP ON MONDAY
29 JANUARY AS THE COTERIE DEBATES THE POWER AND INFLUENCE OF
CREATIVE RITUALS IN HAIR, PHOTOGRAPHY, FILM, FASHION, AND BEYOND
FEATURING:
CASEY COLEMAN
JOHANNA CREE-BROWN
HARRY EVANS
ZOË IRWIN
LAN NGUYEN-GREALIS
ADAM SLAMA
& ROGER SPY
JANUARY
R
RY
JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2018
/FEBRUARY
RY
R
/MARCH
2018
MISTER QUARTERLY
THE FACES, THE PLACES, THE NEWS, THE VIEWS
Mr. Q
welcomes you…
…to a New Year, and plenty of opportunities to groom
your 2018 into something very special. While we have
some stunningly raw and real finishes from the legendary
Paul Merritt, we also shine a light on the community
work of modern barbers, speaking with the Lions Barber
Collective’s Tom Chapman and Mister Robinson’s
Barbershop hero, Matt Robinson. Both of these gents will
be on stage at Salon Smart 2018, too.
GET SMART
WHAT ALL BARBERS SHOULD DO THIS QUARTER
1.
Uganda, Nigeria, Zimbabwe
See: Barber Shop Chronicles, a
dynamic play at the National
Theatre that leaps from a barber
shop in Peckham to Ghana,
and South Africa. Be quick, the
show finishes on 9 January!
nationaltheatre.org.uk
2.
3.
Get creative: The Master of
Men’s Grooming Multi-Tool
course from American Crew
teaches you to create with a shear,
clipper and razor. 27 February,
Leeds, americancrew.com
Visit: Salon Smart to see a
quartet of experts discuss the
booming men’s market, including
Most Wanted Male Grooming
Expert, Jonathan Andrew,
and Ruffians’ Andrew Cannon
(pictured). 25 to 26 March,
creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart
YOU NEED
TO MEET…
Describe yourself in five words:
Driven, busy, creative, adhoc, dad.
What’s exciting you about British
barbering right now?
That hair is getting longer again and
it’s becoming all about the texture
and movement.
If I could change one thing…
It would be how the NVQ
process works, with funding and
apprenticeship length, for people
coming into the industry. The
amount of time given to complete
the qualifications against the length
of contract we can offer.
Everything changed for me when…
I called Fish Hairdressing in 1991 and
asked for a job, which started me on
my career journey. Soho in the ’90s
was amazing and scary.
The barber who inspired me the
most is…
My first boss, Guert Renzenbrink.
JOE MILLS
Joe and Co, Soho
ON THE COVER
Hair by Paul Merritt for ARROJO NYC
The man was an amazing cutter
and made me look at shape and
form. To think of hair as a moving,
living thing… he had an almost
architectural view of hair.
Who else should we get
to know…
Jody Taylor, Ross Parlane and Charlie
Cullen. They are pushing men’s
hair in new directions. I like their
work ethic and their creativity. It’s
not about skin fades for these guys,
and they’re really mixing it up with
texture and unstructured work. Ross
has two stores now in Manchester
and is really at the top of his game.
You might not know this
about me…
I grew up in Margate in Kent, which
at the time wasn’t cool. It’s now
having an amazing rebirth.
Say hello to me at…
@joemillshair
@joeandcosoho
02 Mister Quarterly
NEW GROOM ROOM
Ted’s Grooming Room, Tower 42, London
Congratulations to Kyle Ross, founder of the Aberdeen barber
shop Huntsman, who scooped the title of Best UK Barber
2017 at the grand fi nal of the International Barber Awards in
Germany. Quite the fi rst anniversary for the Huntsman shop!
WHAT MAKES A GREAT BARBER?
Patience (85%)
Good communication (75%)
Discipline (67%)
Passion (66%)
Respect (64%)
Source: Armour to Barber and The Bluebeards Revenge
Located in the bustle of the city of London, in the iconic Tower 42, this is Ted’s 12th store
and has four barber chairs available to keep all those city gents looking spick-and-span.
Of course, there are the traditional Turkish shaves that the brand is well-known for, but
it also offers something of a retreat from the daily grind of fi nancial shenanigans, and its
own range of grooming products is there to take home, too.
BBA UNVEILS STEERING GROUP
The British Barbers’ Association is launching
a steering group to help guide its policy and
interaction with government and its agencies. The
idea is to ensure that a broader range of members’
views are represented. Chaired by barbering
educator Erik Lander, the group will offer insight on
long-term strategies to help the industry, including
pushing education to fill skills gaps.
PRIME NUMBERS supported
by
OF BARBERS believe there’s not currently enough quality talent to cope with the
rising demand from consumers, according to research by Armour to Barber and
The Bluebeards Revenge. About 83 per cent of those working in the industry think the
barbering sector will continue to flourish, but that a ‘conveyor belt’ system is putting
pressure on barbers to complete cuts quickly (dubbed the ‘10-minute haircut’) without
taking the time to consult with the client. Two-thirds of barbershop owners said they
are finding it difficult to hire a quality barber.
63%Want to be part of The Bluebeards Revenge crew? Visit bluebeards-revenge.co.uk
Mister Quarterly 03
ON THE SHELF
BOYS’ TOYS
THE HOTTEST STOCK, TOOLS AND FURNITURE FOR YOUR BARBER SHOP
Bluebeards Revenge Sea Salt
Spray gives hair a hold that’s
tighter than the grip of
Davy Jones’s Locker,
without any of the sinking
feeling for hold, volume
and texture.
RRP £9.99
01752 989191
bluebeardsrevenge.co.uk
Shabby mud
from Oway is a
soft-hold clay wax to
define and separate with
a weathered effect.
RRP £18.90
01283 586986
oway.co.uk
The Dark Stag premium straight
razor is perfect for shaving, tidying
beards, facial hair and the nape
of the neck.
Salon price £16+VAT
01903 209409
darkstag.com
Blue
Fine Fettle is a range of
Cedar
unique, all natural beard
from V76 by conditioners, beard oils
Vaughn
and natural waxes
has a woody specifically designed
aroma with
for facial hair. Neat!
notes of coconut
RRP from £6.99
and leather.
020 3608 6178
RRP £35
finefettlegrooming.
01442 248104
com
v76.com
KMS
Hybrid
FINISHers
are perfect for
genderless grooming.
RRP £21.50
01323 432100
kmshair.com
SMOOTH MOVER Rich Shave
Cream from TIGI’s Bed Head
for Men will calm and soften
the roughest of chins.
RRP £10.95
0844 8440944
bedhead.com
The Dover wash station
is a classic and there’s the
option to integrate hot towels
for traditional shaving services.
From £2,150
020 7515 0333
takarahairdressing.co.uk
American Crew’s new Firm Hold
Styling Cream is a multipurpose
marvel to nurture,
sculpt and tame.
RRP £12.90
020 7391 7440
americancrew.
com
04 Mister Quarterly
ESSENTIAL
MR. Q DOES THE HARD WORK FOR
YOU, DELIVERING WHAT YOU NEED TO
KNOW, IN ASSOCIATION WITH
MY FAVOURITE AMERICAN CREW PRODUCT IS
BOOST POWDER – I CAN USE IT ON ALL SORTS
OF STYLES FROM DRY POMPS TO SHORTER MESSY
CROPS; ONCE I HAVE BLOW-DRIED THE STYLE
INTO THE SHAPE I WANT, I APPLY BOOST POWDER.
I WORK IT FROM ROOT TO LENGTH AND IT MAKES
HAIR BENDY AND PLIABLE SO I CAN COMB, TWIST
OR SEPARATE INTO THE FINAL SHAPE. IT’S EASY
AND REALLY VERSATILE. I ALWAYS HAVE IT ON ME
FOR STAGE WORK
BALDY, BALDY’S BARBER SHOPS
David Raccuglia with 2017
All Star winner Adam Mir
ACCEPT THE CHALLENGE
We love the texture
being served here by
American Crew Elite
Team member Sam
Wall (@mrsamwall),
using the new
American Crew Tech
Series Boost Spray.
No wonder it’s our
Instagram cut of the
quarter! Want to put
forward a cut to be
considered for the next
issue of Mr Q? Post it
on Instagram, tag in
@americancrewuk and
@creativeheadmag and
use #MrQCrewCloseUp.
Good luck!
#MrQCrewCloseUp
The model. The cut. The
photograph. Bring all those
ingredients together to create
your interpretation of the
American Crew man. This is
the All Star Challenge, the
A-list global competition for
barbers and men’s hairdressers
that recognises the very best of
the best. The Challenge is now
open – and the prize is perfect,
too! All 15 finalists will spend
a week with top grooming
experts including American
Crew founder David Raccuglia,
to perfect the American Crew
Menswork method of styling,
and then they go head to head
in a fierce battle with the
best groomers on the globe
for the All Star trophy…
and a cool $10,000! Find out
more at americancrew.com/
allstarchallenge
As any good barber knows, it’s important to
share what you love – and we’re doing exactly
that this month with American Crew’s Fiber
Cream! We have fi ve to give away to anyone
who wants to have a play with this fi brous
cream that offers medium hold and natural
shine. It’s great on medium to long hair! All
you need to do is follow @americancrewuk
on Instagram and use the hashtag
#MrQFiberCompetition on any post. Easy!
Want to know more about how American Crew can boost your barbering? Call 020 7391 7440 or visit americancrew.com
AmericanCrewUK
Mister Quarterly 05
Suicide is the single biggest
killer of UK men under the age
of 45. It’s a destructive force that
can be felt in communities all around
the country. Yet very little is being done to
address why young men are struggling to the point
where some take their own lives – and so some of the nation’s leading barbers are
taking matters into their own hands, launching projects designed to challenge
preconceptions about men.
Tom Chapman, owner of Tom Chapman Hair Design in Torquay, was devastated
when his friend Alex committed suicide. “I spoke to him days before he took his own
life and I knew nothing. I didn’t pick up on it and he didn’t share anything with me,”
said Tom. “How can this happen? Is it because of stigma and taboo? Or because of
the stereotype of men as strong? I spoke to our friends and said we needed to do
something. A year later it had manifested as the Lions Barber Collective.”
SEE TOM
CHAPMAN AND
MATT ROBINSON AT
26 MARCH AT THE PARK
PLAZA, LONDON
06 Mister Quarterly
The Lions Barber Collective is a mission in two parts. The first
is to raise awareness for mental wellbeing and suicide prevention.
“We have a presence at many events where there may be a high
male percentage attending, such as hair shows, live music and
sporting events,” Tom explains. The second part is BarberTalk –
a bespoke mental health and suicide awareness course condensed
into one day especially for the hair industry.
“The aim is not to turn barbers into counsellors – rather we
hope to give them the confidence to become that bridge between
people and the organisations that are available,” adds Tom.
Matt Robinson, founder of Mister Robinson’s Barbershop in
Rugby, knows what it’s like to experience difficulty as a young
man – during his teenage years he was homeless for a time.
Getting through it inspired him to provide help for men who need
it. “I was a local lad with a darker past, but I had turned the
corner and was walking a straighter path thanks to my faith,”
Matt explains. “I worked in a local barber shop, but I couldn’t do
everything I needed to do for my community. That’s how Mister
Robinson’s started – as a place where people could hang out, be
safe, not feel judged and also get a good haircut. We opened our
doors in 2013 to support our local homeless shelter Hope4, which
was above the shop.”
Matt created The Beard Club to celebrate the men who are
doing great things in their communities, who work to raise money
for charity and to unify men who hold these values from around
the world – it now has more than 5,000 active members.
Mister Quarterly 07
Thanks to their communication skills and sensitivity, barbers
are well equipped to encourage men to open up about how
they feel. Research conducted by the Lions Barber Collective,
together with male grooming brand The Bluebeards Revenge,
has found that of the 1,908 men asked, 53 per cent admitted
they were more likely to discuss private issues such as
depression with their barbers than with a health professional.
The study also found that 78 per cent of men make a conscious
effort to regularly visit the same barber, demonstrating the
strength of this bond. “Barbers and hairstylists have a unique
position of trust from which we can build strong relationships
with our clients,” says Tom. “People tell us things they wouldn’t
tell their closest friends and family. As barbers we have an
incredibly privileged position of intimacy.”
Tom Chapman also holds Lions Den meetings once a month
in the salon, where a volunteer support worker will share
information and support in a non-clinical environment, and
Walking As Lions events, where they gather at the seafront.
“We encourage those with mental health issues or those
struggling with anything to attend and get to know others with
similar issues and understandings,” Tom says.
These meetings are fuelled by Domino’s Pizza, which provides
sustenance for free. “The best bit about teaming up with Domino’s
is that it has agreed to put our leaflets with its boxes,” says Tom.
“People with states of depression and other mental illness can
become isolated and might tend to order delivery food. With our
leaflets on the box, we are reaching the unreachable.”
Liam Hamilton
08 Mister Quarterly
The Bluebeards Revenge is helping The Lions Barber Collective
to get the message out further – the inside of the product cartons
will be covered with advice, statistics and contact details for The
Samaritans – and this year will see The Bluebeards Revenge
launch a new styling gel which will donate a percentage of
profits to The Lions Barber Collective.
The male grooming brand also supports Armour to
Barber, an organisation that helps ex-service men and
women into the barbering industry. Research has shown
that 83 per cent of those in the barbering sector believe their
industry will continue to flourish, but 63 per cent think there
are not enough quality barbers to cope with rising demand.
Founder of Armour to Barber and former British Army officer,
Liam Hamilton, believes that this gap can be filled by ex-military
personnel: “Ex-servicemen and women have all the attributes
to take the trade by storm: patience, people skills, an attention
to detail and the ability to stand on their feet all day without
complaint,” he says.
Meanwhile, fragrance brand TABAC has launched “Shave The
Day”, a campaign in aid of Age UK that encourages
barbershops to open their doors and welcome in
older men who may feel isolated. Luke Dolan,
owner of Luke’s Barbershop in Ruislip, says:
“Barber shops have community spirit at their
very heart and that’s why I wanted to play my
part in bringing back community values and get
people talking to each other, young or old.”
Matt Robinson has also been working hard to
find more ways to support his community. The
barber shop has sponsored live stages at
Rugby’s Bike Festival and also works
with Thaibo, a local kickboxing
group that helps encourage
children to take up sport. Mister
Robinson’s helps support fighters
and has even bought a boxing
ring. And the soup kitchen
above the shop continues to feed
those who need it, with staff
regularly working shifts.
This is the new definition of
“manning up” – the toughest guys
are using their strength to help
their brothers in times of need.
Mister Quarterly 09
10 Mister Quarterly
C O N T R O L
WITH THE IDEA OF MOVING AWAY FROM THE PERCEIVED ‘CLASSIC MAN’, PAUL MERRITT STREET-CAST
GUYS WHO WERE HAPPY FOR HIM DO WHAT HE LIKED; “THIS WAS US WANTING TO DO
SOMETHING STRIPPED BACK…”
PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID SCHULZE
Mister Quarterly 11
12 Mister Quarterly
Hair by Paul Merritt for ARROJO NYC. Casting by Cheeky
Mister Quarterly 13
#TRENDING
TOPMAN S/S18
London Fashion Week Men’s
‘New Romantic Club Kid’ was the name of the game
at Topman S/S18, with the show conjuring up images of
’80s boys enjoying a long night in the club… Matt Mulhall
for Fudge Professional was tasked with creating hair that’s
left with that post-night energy. Fudge Professional Hair Gum
was liberally applied from root to ends, before blow-drying with
a brush created volume and wet-look texture. To mould the
shape, Hair Gum was added to the temples, while lashings
of Fudge Professional Skyscraper Extra held everything in
place. To evoke the New Romantic era in all its vibrant
glory, a generous dose of glitter was applied all over
the head and set in place with Skyscraper Extra.
We just can’t get enough…
Images courtesy of Fudge Professional
14 Mister Quarterly
SHOP TALK
POLE POSITION
PORTERS
WITH FOUR SHOPS ACROSS LONDON, THIS BRAND HAS
OPTED FOR AN UNASHAMEDLY MASCULINE APPROACH
East Dulwich Dulwich Village
Bora Esen
Clients who walk into a Porters barber
shop are always made to feel right at home
with a complimentary drink – anything
from coffee and tea infusions to a cold beer
or a scotch. It’s a name that’s developed
from a single barber shop in Dulwich
Village seven years ago to a lifestyle brand
with four South London locations. Exposed
brickwork, vintage barber chairs, Edison
filament bulbs… it all adds to the eclectic
and intimate atmosphere.
There are old-school techniques in play,
as sinks at each work station have chairs
that can rotate so clients experience the
‘front dunk’. It also has the 350 Club,
a men’s grooming club (limited to 350
members) that for £20 a week offers two
weekly treatments, priority appointments
and exclusive invitations to Porter events.
What founder Bora Esen believes sets
Porters apart is its ability to quickly
become the hub of any community its
locate in. The focus is on giving back: from
apprenticeship programmes in the shops to
working with and sponsoring local schools
and charities.
Inside, it’s all about Crew and a brew –
American Crew has been stocked by Bora
since it first landed in the UK, and all the
shops include baristas trained in-house,
just like its barbers. “We have always
served coffee, but never this specialised
and we felt like it was the right time to
crank things up,” explains Bora.
If the setting looks familiar, it’s because
its shops are regular destinations for
filming and photography – the BBC, ITV,
MTV and Sky Sports are just a few of
who’ve set up shoots within its doors. Its
most recent opening was Brixton, a base
Bora says is “like nowhere else in London.
It’s a total melting pot, so you never know
who’s going to walk through the door, or
which style they’ll want”.
Brixton
Mister Quarterly 15
DON’T LOSE
FACE
A high performance hair and grooming
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NEW
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HAPPY NEW COTERIE!
29.01.18
LIVE PANEL DEBATE!
LIVE PANEL DEBATE! HOSTED BY TONY GLENVILLE
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7-10PM. LONDON
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YOUR
POTENTIAL
ARE YOU READY TO PUSH YOURSELF FURTHER AND ENTER THE WELLA TRENDVISION AWARD 2018?
BUT HOW CAN YOU MAKE SURE YOUR ENTRY STANDS OUT? IT’S ALL IN THE PREP…
RELEASE
WHETHER YOU WANT to drive your career
forward by achieving your goals or entering
the Wella Professionals TrendVision Award,
Wella has got a course for you. Providing
the best education around and inspiring
the hairdressing industry is what drives
Wella Professionals, and its 2018 education
programme is where you’ll find the perfect
solution for every member of your team.
You can start planning your education by
downloading the Wella Education Book 2018.
Here is our round-up of the courses to
attend if you’re looking to push yourself
further this year...
COLOUR CREATE
This is an advanced
course to help you stay
on trend – perfect for
those who want to get
their Color Vision entry
right. Learn how to
create new and daring
mixtures, and inspire
your clients.
BOOK IT! To book a course,
contact your Wella Studio
TVA 2018
CREATE YOUR LOOK
This is a must if you’re
entering TrendVision
Award 2018! Join the
inspirational Wella
Professionals team and
industry photographers
across the Wella studio
network and capture
the perfect look to enter
the photographic heat of
TrendVision Award.
68
CREATIVE HEAD
ARE YOU READY?
You’ve found your inspiration to
enter Wella TrendVision Award 2018,
now choose your category…
• Color Vision
• Creative Vision
• Male Grooming
• Runway
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
HOW TO ENTER TVA 2018
To enter, request your entry pack
by speaking to your Wella account
manager, contact the Wella Events
Team on 0845 6018128 or email
wellaevents@cotyinc.com.
Or download an entry form from
wella.co.uk/trendvision
FOR THOSE
LOOKING FOR EXTRA
INSPIRATION FOR THEIR
ENTRY, FOLLOW
@WELLAHAIR ON INSTAGRAM
FOR HOT TIPS AND EXCITING
IMAGERY FROM WELLA
PROFESSIONALS’ AMAZING
PORTFOLIO OF TOP
MENTORS
Image courtesy of Toni&Guy
Wella supports you every step of the way so see how the brand can help you today.
To get started, download your copy of the Wella Education Book 2018 at education.wella.com
CREATIVE HEAD
69
70
CREATIVE HEAD
STATEMENT
OF INTENT
FRESH FROM DENIS ROBINSON AND RICHARD
TUCKER AT RUFFIANS, ‘CREDO’ WAS BORN FROM
THE BRAND’S PHILOSOPHY TO EMBRACE BOTH
PURE BARBERING AND HAIRDRESSING WHILE
ALWAYS PUSHING BOUNDARIES
PHOTOGRAPHY BY MATT HOLYOAK
CREATIVE HEAD
71
72
CREATIVE HEAD
HAIR Denis Robinson and Richard Tucker at Ruffians. STYLING Callum Vincent. GROOMING Paul Haskell
SEE MORE from this shoot,
including a behind-the-scenes
video at creativeheadmag.com
CREATIVE HEAD
73
Breathless
Fresh, beautiful and
gleaming with health , the
hair in the Headmasters
2018 Blow Dry collection
will make clients , hearts
beat a little bit faster
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES KEMMENOE
74
CREATIVE HEAD
CREATIVE HEAD
75
76
CREATIVE HEAD
HAIR Headmasters Pro Artistic Team – Jonathan Soons, Siobhan Jones, Nicole Iroh, Clare Hansford and Gareth Williams using
L’Oréal Professionnel. CREATIVE DIRECTION AND STYLING Laura Hinton. MAKE-UP Andriani Vasiliou
CREATIVE HEAD
77
Scene
THE HOTTEST EVENTS EVERY MONTH – GET YOURSELF SCENE!
Cirque de
SYD HAYES
FULL OF DAZZLING SPECTACLES, daring interactive experiences
and deftly coiffed creations, the first ever Featured Artist LIVE event left
attendees awestruck. Dreamed up by the night’s ringmaster, Most Wanted
2017 Session Stylist Syd Hayes, the new Creative HEAD Education evening
(held in association with BaByliss PRO) had a twisted circus theme.
Blending laughter and learning, it saw guests pushing creative boundaries
while playing with hair in fun and fascinating new ways. Through Syd’s
lens, the process of transforming a look with hair pieces and wefts became a
warped game of pin the ponytail (or fringe) on the donkey. Against a neon-lit
backdrop of Syd’s tear-sheets, guests undertook a nearly-nude life-drawing
class using hair colour as ink. A shooting gallery featured paint-filled
balloons suspended above pieces from Syd’s wig wardrobe, with attendees
queuing up to take aim with darts. And another row of mannequin heads,
each with 16 wigs hand-sewn together, allowed participants to sculpt shapes
using suspended sets of clippers. At the end of the night, when guests had
tried each activity, Syd took to the mic to conduct an impromptu Q&A
session. He also doled out boxes of his new styling accessory, the Syd Pin,
to audience members who had impressed in each of the tasks. Thanks to
event sponsors BaByliss PRO, everyone also went home with a goodie bag
featuring one of the brand’s top electrical tools. What a finale!
Syd Hayes
78
CREATIVE HEAD
CREATIVE HEAD 79
Catherine Handcock with Ky Wilson
Catherine Handcock with
Samantha Hillerby
SEE
KY WILSON
SPEAK AT
25 MARCH AT THE PARK
PLAZA, LONDON
LARGER
than life
THE COTERIE POPPED up at Lambert’s Yard in Leeds for tales of
session, styling, salons and success from two very different hairdressers.
First up was Samantha Hillerby, a local girl done very good – and by
good, we mean landing front covers of Vogue and tending to the tresses
of Victoria Beckham and Cara Delevingne, among others. Interviewed
by Creative HEAD publisher Catherine Handcock, Samantha spoke
about moving to London and working with Guido and Nicky Clarke, and
discussed her studio in Swanland, near Hull. She revealed the best advice
she ever received was from Mark Hill, who told her to ‘Milk it, girl!’ From
style maven to style maverick, The It List It Guy 2017, Ky Wilson, started
out in hairdressing “because I needed a job”, opening his own spaces in
warehouses. In true Ky style, he had a refreshing take on social media:
“I’d rather get a ‘like’ in person, from someone saying ‘I liked that’. You
see hairdressers who are in the right place at the right time, doing a cool
band’s hair and having fun, but they can’t cut hair. They just want to be
famous because of Instagram.” And the product he can’t live without?
“A hairdryer… and my mouth.” Guests left feeling inspired and with a
lucky dip goodie bag, courtesy of BaByliss PRO.
2017
2017
WINNER
THE IT GUY
80
CREATIVE HEAD
A night on
THE TOWN
TIGI’s Anthony and Pat Mascolo
THE GREAT AND THE GOOD have been entertained at Café de Paris
and, for one night only, we were invited to enjoy an evening at the famous
London nightclub with the TIGI Inspirational Youth Team. The event
began with the nine team members presenting their looks to a packed-out
audience. Each team member cut and finished their model live on stage,
explaining where they got their inspiration from, the TIGI products they
used to create the look and the colours created using TIGI copyright©olour.
Punk, Bowie, cyber and sci-fi were all referenced. The evening ended with a
recreation by the TIGI International Creative Team of its show, Utopia, which it
originally performed for the Alternative Hair Show at the Royal Albert Hall.
CREATIVE HEAD 81
Teamwork in action!
Stylists @franking24 and
@drueboybarber enjoying
V Festival
Looking after @cheflukethomas
backstage at @vfestival
Our new barber shop in
@creativeheadmag
In the
frame
Daniel Rymer, founder of Bristol’s Daniel Rymer
Male Grooming (@danielrymerhair) and an
#avedaartist competition winner, snaps away
We are two years old!
SHOOT AND SEND Want to give us
a snapshot of your world? Tweet
us at @creativeheadmag now!
Fran busy backstage at
V Festival
Fellow #avedaartist winner
@kenny.y-- with
his awesome model
Shooting my new collection
Looking good #avedaartist
Drue and Fran get busy on
the #avedaartist shoot
82
CREATIVE HEAD
STRIVE
TO BE
UNRIVALLED
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GREATLENGTHSHAIR.CO.UK/BECOME-A-CERTIFIED-STYLIST
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