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The Muria - Where Children Rule

The Muria people of India have a peculiar institution - the ghotul: a house reserved solely for children. Here the young boys and girls spend their leisure time, their evenings and nights, totally self-determined without interference of adults. Moreover, their house is the cultural centre of the village. A place where children rule!

The Muria people of India have a peculiar institution - the ghotul: a house reserved solely for children. Here the young boys and girls spend their leisure time, their evenings and nights, totally self-determined without interference of adults. Moreover, their house is the cultural centre of the village. A place where children rule!

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1


Preface<br />

This book and its pictures are an invitation to travel with me deep into the jungles of India to the secluded world of the <strong>Muria</strong>, tribal people<br />

that live in Bastar district of the state of Chhattisgarh. It will be a journey through space and time. For it all started 34 years ago and far<br />

away from India...<br />

In early spring 1978 I was sitting in the German National Library in Frankfurt. Books about different destinations in Asia covered my table<br />

as I was preparing a trip around the world that I would start later that year. One of those books caught my attention. It depicted some b&w<br />

photos of dark-skinned young boys and girls wearing strange and fancy attire much as in my introductory picture above. On a first quick<br />

scan I read about quite unbelievable things: a kingdom of the young were they live according to their own rules, untroubled by adults, free<br />

in their sexual relations with frequent change of partners being the rule… I doubted that this could be real.<br />

<strong>The</strong> book in question was Verrier Elwin's elaborate anthropological study '<strong>The</strong> <strong>Muria</strong> and <strong>The</strong>ir Ghotul', published in 1947. It became the<br />

first academic book I ever read from the beginning to its very end. <strong>The</strong>n I decided to set off for the jungles of Bastar.<br />

March 2013<br />

Collin<br />

1980 I was assigned by the German magazine ‘Geo’ to write an article about the <strong>Muria</strong> and my stay at the ghotul. In the end, however, my report<br />

was rejected by reason of ‘too loaded with sexual content’. I did not take another effort of publishing and the material stayed locked off in<br />

my private archive.<br />

Until in 2010 I presented my photos together with an explanatory text at my site of the Flickr photo community. <strong>The</strong> feedback was quite surprising<br />

and as I notice a continuing flow of links from search-engines to these photos I decided now to republish the Flickr version in this condensed<br />

and easy-to-read photo book style. Visitors to my site contributed with comments and questions and I will include some of my answers<br />

of this discussion ‘off the record’ in my descriptive text.<br />

When I was in Bastar I was fortunate to meet and join forces with Professor Roderic Knight from Oberlin College who was out to sample pieces<br />

of <strong>Muria</strong> music. Some links to small samples of his recordings will be included in the following pages.<br />

Copyright 2013 by Collin Key<br />

Contact: collin.key@gmx.net<br />

2


<strong>The</strong> ghotul of Remawand village<br />

3


Kingdom of the Young<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Muria</strong> cherish their youth.<br />

In the villages the young people have a house of their own - the ghotul - where they gather in the evenings and<br />

enjoy their time; boys and girls together; without any supervising adults. <strong>The</strong> girls of the ghotul are called ‘motiari’<br />

and the boys ‘chelik’. Once they enter the ghotul - usually before puberty - each youngster will receive a secret<br />

ghotul name. <strong>The</strong> boys and girls elect a leader for each respective group called ‘sirdar’ and ‘belosa’. Together<br />

they ensure that the rules of the house are observed by everyone. For the ghotul, as Elwin describes, is no place<br />

of disorder. Each member has certain social tasks assigned which have to be carried out.<br />

<strong>The</strong> ghotul is also the youth dormitory of the village. <strong>The</strong> motiari and chelik enjoy sexual freedom. This does<br />

not mean, though, that there are no rules or taboos. While at some places permanent couples used to pair off<br />

this is described even at the times of Elwin as a practice outdated. Thus at most ghotuls partners are changed<br />

on a regular basis - and this is a must! <strong>The</strong> sirdar and belosa will oversee that no jealousy or preferences on the<br />

basis of looks or popularity will arise.<br />

Once they get married the <strong>Muria</strong> have to leave the ghotul.<br />

From now on they will lead a normal and monogamous family life. Adultery is strictly disapproved of. Marriage<br />

often takes place between cousins and is strongly discouraged between couples that have been members of the<br />

same ghotul. It is said that exceptional romantic affairs do occur but are not the rule as the ghotul system encourages<br />

intimacy and friendship between all the youngsters rather than between exclusive couples.<br />

David Orr, a recent visitor to the <strong>Muria</strong> who reported about his journey on the Internet (source now unavailable),<br />

quotes a motiari about this topic: “If a boy and girl fall in love, then they must leave the ghotul. <strong>The</strong>y may<br />

marry if their parents allow it. Or they may come back to the ghotul if they accept a punishment and agree to give<br />

each other up.”<br />

4


Chelik and<br />

motiari<br />

5


6<br />

<strong>The</strong> ghotul - the <strong>Muria</strong> call it their ‘kingdom of the young.’ It is<br />

the place where young boys and girls meet at the evenings after<br />

having worked through the day together with their families.<br />

Youth houses and dormitories are common among tribal people<br />

throughout the world. But whereas elsewhere they often<br />

function as the meeting and training point for the young warriors-to-be<br />

- and are strictly off limits for women - the girls of<br />

the <strong>Muria</strong> take active part in ghotul life. <strong>The</strong>y elect their own<br />

leader, the belosa, who together with the sirdar, the leader of<br />

the boys, ensures the order of the house.<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Muria</strong> consider their ghotul a sacred place founded by God Lingo Pen. <strong>The</strong>re is no ‘sin’ in the ghotul as Lingo-<br />

Pen himself taught the <strong>Muria</strong> its ways of conduct. Besides this the ghotul functions as the public place of every village<br />

in case of festivities or special meetings. And it is the guest house of the village.<br />

So in January 1979 Professor Roderic Knight of Oberlin College, who conducted a field trip exploring tribal music,<br />

and I enjoyed the privilege of being guests for four days at the depicted ghotul in the village of Remawand.<br />

<strong>The</strong> quality of the photo below is no good but I want to show it because it illustrates the wonderful intimate familiarity<br />

between the young chelik (boys) and motiari (girls) huddled against each other behind a door while looking at<br />

me with curiosity and - as it seems to me - some suspicion.<br />

For this they have good reason.<br />

Sexual relations between unmarried youngsters are quite a<br />

scandal in the eyes of the rather prudish Indian society that<br />

surrounds their world. And the strange curiosity of the few<br />

Westerners they will ever meet is not inspiring much confidence<br />

either. So they usually do what seems most intelligent<br />

in this situation: leave intimate questions unanswered.


7


And even if they gave answers - we would not have heard them. For the <strong>Muria</strong> speak Gond, a language the non-tribal<br />

Indians don’t understand. Of course we had a translator. But then, what would he tell us...?<br />

I remember one evening when we were sitting in the ghotul together with our translator – a Muslim guy – chatting<br />

and smoking the self made cigarettes of the chelik which they had offered us. <strong>The</strong>y also shared their palm wine with<br />

us so we were mildly drunk when he suddenly pointed at me.<br />

“You”, he complained, “are asking so many questions which are ... too difficult.” It was obvious what he was hinting at.<br />

“But as a journalist it is nothing but my duty to do so” I defended myself.<br />

He struggled to sit straight and exclaimed pathetically: “And as a decent Indian man and good Muslim it is my duty to<br />

give you … wrong answers.”<br />

Off the record<br />

I have been asked two questions:<br />

1) Isn’t this quite a rigid regime with the sirdar and belosa forcing the other kids to change partners all the time?<br />

No, it is not. Consider that the sirdar and belosa are no grim educators but part of the crowed themselves and the most popular ones at that.<br />

And the village youth is not under compulsion to attend the ghotul. It is a free choice.<br />

2) Isn’t this all rather a fairy tale?<br />

Yes and no. When I arrived in Bastar in ‘79 I really did not expect to find anything left of what Elwin described. But I did. And recent reports<br />

affirm that the tradition is still alive. With one exception, however. Indian movie maker Shyam Benegal reported the magazine Anokhi in 2010<br />

from his trip to Bastar: “Unfortunately, the Ghotul has entirely disappeared from the community life of the <strong>Muria</strong>s.” Elwin already noted in 1947<br />

the reluctance of the Chelik and Motiari to disclose their ways of life to outsiders. This had obviously not changed at the time of our stay. It may<br />

well be surmised that Mr. Benegal fell into the same trap of their ‘strategy of defensive denial’.<br />

But then all these descriptions (mine too, of course) are more or less accounts of an ideal type always focused on a few aspects (and partly copied<br />

from each other). But reality is much more complex and it will differ from village to village. <strong>The</strong> <strong>Muria</strong> do not live isolated but their world is<br />

deeply interweaved with that of the surrounding Indian society. Life is a constant flux.<br />

8


Legend has it that God<br />

Lingo Pen, founder of<br />

the ghotul, also taught<br />

the young people the art<br />

of music. He invented<br />

18 instruments which he<br />

bestowed upon his chelik<br />

and motiari - the iron<br />

jaw’s harp is one of them.<br />

It is virtually identical<br />

to the European form of<br />

the instrument.<br />

Young boy playing the<br />

kach tehendor (jaw’s<br />

harp).<br />

9


For the ghotul kids<br />

adolescence is a time<br />

of laughter and happiness<br />

- not of weary<br />

fights and arguments<br />

with parents and teachers.<br />

This untroubled life<br />

in ‘the kingdom of the<br />

young’, however, ends<br />

abruptly at the time<br />

of marriage which the<br />

motiari see as quite an<br />

ambivalent event as is<br />

revealed by their songs.<br />

For years they have been living freely among their friends and may have had relations with many boys. But now, at<br />

the day of marriage, they have to leave and follow a young man they might barely know into a strictly monogamous<br />

marital life. Traditionally the boy they marry will have been chosen by the parents long beforehand and intimate relations<br />

between the future bride and groom are strictly avoided.<br />

And so they sing rather melancholically in one of their wedding songs (Marmi Pata) which Rod has recorded:<br />

Stretching her cupped hands out towards the road, she walks from the ghotul.<br />

Friends, in this manner she will leave the ghotul.<br />

She did not know or care about home duties before marriage.<br />

But after marriage she will do her duties well.”<br />

10


His axe was the pride of<br />

this boy. He always carried<br />

it around with himself.<br />

He was one of the<br />

younger chelik in the<br />

ghotul of Remawand.<br />

<strong>The</strong> tool had been forged<br />

by the smith of his village<br />

- and even the iron had<br />

been smelted locally. <strong>The</strong><br />

<strong>Muria</strong> blacksmiths master<br />

the technique of melting<br />

the metal from the ore of<br />

local earth in clay blast<br />

furnaces of about half a<br />

man’s height. Besides the<br />

smith there was also a<br />

potter’s family living in<br />

Remawand. Elwin says<br />

in his study that as a rule<br />

the kids of such craftsmen<br />

will not attend the local<br />

ghotul.<br />

In any case it is not an obligation for the village kids to become a ghotul member. A girl might feel too shy to go<br />

there or a school kid may decide that this kind of education rules out the other. At the time of our visit, however,<br />

most kids we met did not go to any school at all. <strong>The</strong> ghotul was their sole place of education.<br />

11


<strong>The</strong> God<br />

12<br />

At the outskirts of the village Remawand we meet God Lingo Pen, the founder and protector of all ghotuls, resting<br />

in the golden light of a late afternoon.<br />

A little shrine houses his statue carved from wood and resting on a palanquin. Four bearers will carry him at<br />

times of festivities. I remember Elwin narrating that at times when some unexplainable problems occur - like<br />

diseases - the bearers will stumble in trance with the God on their shoulders leading them to the source of the<br />

malady – possibly the house of a witch or warlock.<br />

It was Lingo Pen who provided the youth of the <strong>Muria</strong> with a house of their own, their ghotul, and taught them<br />

the rules of how to live in it. He also instructed them how to play music - the song in his honour is the Hulki.<br />

Furthermore it is said that he also protects the girls from unwanted pregnancy. You may doubt the efficiency of<br />

a God’s protection in such matters. But you would probably not confide in most other convictions either concerning<br />

this matter which Elwin mentions – as e.g. the belief that frequent change of partners has contraceptive<br />

effects. In recent reports, however, I also found mentioned natural methods of birth control among the tribe<br />

which might get us closer to an explanation acceptable to Western minds.<br />

Whatever the case may be, it seems a fact that pregnancy is of rather rare occurrence in ghotul life. And definitely<br />

it is unwanted. For the couples of the ghotul are not meant to be partners for later marriage. Usually this<br />

aspect of life has been settled by the parents long beforehand. And a pregnancy will make long and difficult<br />

negotiations necessary - most probably ending with some compensation to be paid by the girl’s family to that of<br />

the proposed partner.<br />

Off the record<br />

I have been asked if the <strong>Muria</strong> are from African origin. No, they are pure Indian. <strong>The</strong>y are part of the Gond speaking people and Gond is a language<br />

within the Dravidian family. Other Dravidian languages are e.g. Tamil (Tamil Nadu), Telugu (Andhra Pradesh) and Malayalam (Kerala).<br />

While the people of north India belong to the Indo-European language family the South is Dravidian. <strong>The</strong> people there tend to be of a darker<br />

complexion.


God Lingo Pen<br />

13


<strong>The</strong> Dances<br />

Music and dance are essential to <strong>Muria</strong> life and the chelik and motiari of the ghotul are the only performers.<br />

Thus the ghotul stands in the focus of the traditional <strong>Muria</strong> culture and it is the youngsters who ensure its survival.<br />

What a great task for boys and girls that have not yet passed puberty...<br />

Wearing their bison horn head gear with a veil of cowrie shells covering their faces the mandri drummers of<br />

Nayanar village stage quite a dramatical performance. Part of it is folklore though. For the bison horn dance is<br />

actually a tradition of the neighbouring Dandami Maria tribe. It was a school teacher living in Nayanar who<br />

started some serious dance training with the youngsters. He also arranged for the elaborate costumes. <strong>The</strong><br />

dance group of Nayanar became quite famous and was often compelled by local politicians to perform for visiting<br />

dignitaries seeking an ‘evening at the ghotul’. In 1975 they even got an award for a performance they gave at<br />

Republic Day ceremonies in Delhi.<br />

While the 70’s were marked by a certain trend of commercializing the ghotul performances in Nayanar and<br />

some other villages it seems that in the following years this was met with some reluctance. It is reported that in<br />

the early 80’s ghotul leaders had voted to refuse to perform for political dignitaries at the district capital Jagdalpur.<br />

Resentment against outside performance was obviously growing.<br />

And today? In his report from 2005 David Orr recalls a visit in Deogaon where he was told that most of the<br />

girls had left for a performance in Delhi. So outside performance is obviously still going on. At the next village<br />

he visited, however, he found ghotul life still intact and not reduced to a folkloristic event.<br />

14<br />

One feature of their performing art that specially appeals to the young chelik and motiari is the fact that it gives<br />

them the opportunity for excursions. No, I don’t mean the occasional gigs in front of complacent dignitaries<br />

which I talked about before. But at the time when the harvest is brought in and there is not much to do on the<br />

fields the young boys and girls prepare for leaving their ghotul. Both genders do this separately. <strong>The</strong>y will visit<br />

the ghotul of neighbouring villages, perform their songs and dances and spend whatever rest of the night will<br />

be left at their hosts’ dormitory. This is a time of anxious excitement, of joking and chatting, of frolic and laughter<br />

- and maybe of some romantic romance, too. <strong>The</strong> more so as the visiting girls will probably meet only the


<strong>The</strong> drummers enter the scene at Nayanar ghotul while the girls have formed a line receiving them with the rhythm of<br />

their dance sticks (jagar) One of the drum songs is the Geri Endana.<br />

15


neighbour chelik while the motiari of that place will be either on tour themselves or sleep at home that night - and<br />

vice versa.<br />

I have not seen such excursions with my own eyes but this is how Elwin described them. Another feature of the<br />

ghotul namely that it serves as the guest house of the villages can be ascertained first-hand as we ourselves were<br />

hosted at the ghotul of Remawand. But in this case only the boys stayed overnight with us while the girls preferred<br />

to spend those nights at home. Elwin noted that guests who stay too long will face a certain reluctance from the side<br />

of the youngsters. And in fact I had exactly that feeling after our third - and last - night in the ghotul of Remawand.<br />

One can’t blame them to prefer the presence of their girls after all...<br />

Off the record: School education<br />

Another photo that is spoiled but I think I have to show it anyhow. This boy<br />

appeared in front of Remawand ghotul one afternoon and we were told that he<br />

is the only village boy attending a boarding school. Instead of commenting this<br />

myself I rather want to cite Madhu Ramnath who works as ethnobotanist in the<br />

area. In 2001 he expressed his deep frustration about the state of school education<br />

among the tribal people in an article published in the Internet:<br />

“To live and teach in adivasi [tribal] region requires special qualities: openness,<br />

an interest in other cultures, a sense of inquiry and immense energy. In my two<br />

decades of travel in Bastar, I have yet to come across a government schoolteacher<br />

who fulfills these requirements, even partially.”<br />

16<br />

Generally private schools as of Hindu or Christian Missions enjoy a higher<br />

reputation than public schools in India. But, asks Ramnath polemically, “...<br />

do they show any interest in adivasi society? Is it their concern that makes them<br />

change adivasi names...? Has anyone seen a school-going adivasi boy with long<br />

hair ... or an adivasi schoolgirl without a plait? <strong>The</strong>se schools impose Hindi on<br />

students, forbidding the various ... dialects... Few teachers, if any, speak adivasi<br />

languages. <strong>The</strong>se schools alienate adivasi youth from their society, creating prejudices.<br />

This shows in the adivasi boys who refuse to return to their forest villages<br />

during vacations. <strong>The</strong>y are ashamed to acknowledge their parents and their adivasi<br />

background, attempting at becoming poor imitations of the non-tribal. <strong>The</strong>se<br />

schools distance adivasi children from the forest as a place of learning. Few years<br />

at school are enough for adivasi children to develop a tendency to shirk physical<br />

labour: day-scholars become burdens on their families.”


17


Off the record: Crooked limbs<br />

Like tribal people throughout the world the <strong>Muria</strong> are likely to become an object of<br />

either curiosity and romantic glorification or downright contempt. Let me narrate an<br />

episode of our field trip as an example which also highlights the canny way the adivasi<br />

dealt with this.<br />

<strong>The</strong> newly-posted Tribal Development Officer invited Rod and me to an excursion to<br />

some villages of the Hill Maria [no typo here] within the Abujhmar mountains, a really<br />

wild region not accessible even by jeep and an area of retreat for the last surviving<br />

tigers and black panthers.<br />

This young officer was the only administrator I met who was absolutely enthusiastic<br />

about his posting to Bastar. I think he viewed his new assignment as a kind of great<br />

adventure trip. Our party included the officer’s wife, the Chief Engineer and a number<br />

of junior officers and servants.<br />

After having been set over the Indravati river we arrived at our first destination, the<br />

village of Lanka at the foot of the jungle mountains. A hasty meeting with the village<br />

elders was arranged. <strong>The</strong> discussion seemed to get somewhat heated, especially on the<br />

side of the officials, but neither Rod nor I understood the language.<br />

Later then the Engineer put us in the picture. “<strong>The</strong>y are so stupid!” he exclaimed. “We ask them: ‘Do you want us to build a bridge over the river?’<br />

and they answer: ‘If the government wants to build a bridge over the river, the government will build a bridge over the river.’ And we ask again but<br />

they only keep repeating this nonsense phrase.” And he added: “<strong>The</strong>y are not rational. What can we do but treat them like children?” Obviously he<br />

craved for our consent (while I could not but feel there was a certain truth within the tribals’ words).<br />

Later on the Engineer gave us a lengthy lecture of the ancient Indian science of Yoga and how its superior methods were apt to solve the world’s<br />

problems...<br />

Rod had been promised some music performance for the evening. As this was January it had become quite cold by then and while we squatted<br />

around the campfire no singers seemed to appear. Nevertheless the servants were sent out and soon they reappeared with some of the youth in<br />

tow. And they did perform though obviously with some reluctance.<br />

A year or so later Rod had the text of his recordings translated. In their language which neither we nor the officers could understand those village<br />

youngsters had made up songs of spontaneous mocking lines. “Tire tire agna bati tirere; Kore kore na babuloke kore le” – “Our visitors have<br />

crooked limbs; they walk as if lame; their lips are [ugly] red.”<br />

18


Motiari with jagar while the boys dance on stilts<br />

19


A young girl carrying her even<br />

younger brother on her hips, a<br />

grandfather giving shelter to his<br />

little granddaughter - the tender<br />

care with which the little children<br />

among the onlookers of the<br />

ghotul dances were treated was<br />

both striking and heartwarming.<br />

Although the ghotul is the kingdom<br />

of the young this does not<br />

mean that elders can’t enter it<br />

e.g. on the occasion of festivities.<br />

Generally the <strong>Muria</strong> seem to<br />

be rather pragmatic with regard<br />

to rules. Some chelik might be<br />

so popular that he is a welcome<br />

visitor even after his marriage.<br />

From what I have heard, however,<br />

girls will not return for the<br />

evening gatherings once they are<br />

wedded. And Elwin relates that<br />

the youngsters will likely get fed<br />

up if some grown-up can’t bring<br />

himself to leave the fun ground<br />

of his youth. Thus the other chelik<br />

might well get into action<br />

- stealing a fowl from his house<br />

or some other pranks alike will<br />

probably do the trick.<br />

20


Child care<br />

21


Everyday Life<br />

Life is not only pleasure but also work.<br />

During the day the young folk have to help their elders with their daily work. <strong>The</strong> motiari are said to leave the<br />

ghotul before sunrise to join their families and help out their mothers with their early morning work while the<br />

chelik might start it a bit more leisurely. <strong>The</strong> <strong>Muria</strong> are mainly farmers and ploughing the field behind two buffaloes<br />

needs strong arms. This boy does his work quite early so to avoid the burning heat of the rising sun.<br />

Hunting with bow and arrow is still<br />

prevalent though in these days more<br />

an affair of fun than of need.<br />

22<br />

Since the days of the Raj (British empire)<br />

the jungles have lost lots of their<br />

density and many animals like the<br />

tiger and black panther have moved<br />

away to more remote areas of Bastar<br />

district like the Abujhmar mountains.


23


Off the Record: Building a bridge<br />

Remember the Maria of Lanka saying: “If the government wants to build a bridge over the river, the government will build a bridge over the river”?<br />

I was granted an interview with some senior administrator of the sub-district of Narayanar. I forgot his exact position but remember him as<br />

a chubby good-humoured man who seemed to delight in the interest of the foreign press (see me smiling while I write this? I was in my early<br />

20’s and not actually on any official assignment.) Anyway, we had been nicely chatting away for quite a while when suddenly a man entered the<br />

room with a load of files in his hands.<br />

<strong>The</strong> following discussion took place in Hindi thus not understandable to me. But I could tell that it was heating up with every sentence finally<br />

ending with my friendly host furiously yelling at the other man in a high pitched voice who then left the office with a subservient gesture. My<br />

interview partner sank back into the chair behind his huge desk, took a deep breath, looked up and – smiled at me again. Friendly and calm as<br />

before he commenced:<br />

“I will explain to you what happened. This junior officer comes in here asking me to sign his files. ‘What matter?’ I ask him. And he answers: ‘<strong>The</strong><br />

projected bridge.’”<br />

He pauses for a moment and examines me with a cunning look.<br />

“Well, this bridge...” – rising his voice – “has been projected years ago! Since then everything has changed, prizes have gone up. <strong>The</strong> budgeted costs<br />

will certainly be exceeded. And if I sign this now I will be the one to be blamed!”<br />

“So what did you tell him then?” I asked.<br />

“I told him to bring the files back to where he got them from.”<br />

A broad and triumphant smile crossed his face. And then he confided in me with the wisdom of a long administrative career.<br />

“<strong>The</strong> art of administration,” he exclaimed, “is just that: when someone throws you a ball – pass it immediately!”<br />

P.S. I tried Google Earth but could not find any bridge near Lanka. But then, it might be hard to make out from outer space...<br />

24


<strong>The</strong>se two girls are fetching<br />

water from a nearby well. I<br />

took this photo in the warm<br />

sunlight of a late afternoon.<br />

It looks idyllic. Yet carrying<br />

water over quite a distance is<br />

hard work...<br />

25


Some of the most enjoyable events of every day <strong>Muria</strong> life are the local markets. Men and women come from far to<br />

display their goods, have a chat, drink some self made palm wine and exchange the latest news. Last but not least this<br />

is where the popular (and bloody) cockfights take place.<br />

<strong>Muria</strong> women in general and motiari in particular love to dress up - and market days are the right occasions for<br />

it. <strong>Muria</strong> girls wear colorful cloth, bangles, anklets, necklaces and most prominently lots of fancy adornments in<br />

their hair. Everything decorative will find a place in the pinned up black strands as with this woman whom I photographed<br />

on her way to the weekly market of Narayanpur town. Of special significance, however, are the combs they<br />

wear.<br />

Well, nowadays most of what you see are cheap<br />

and shiny plastic combs. But in old times those<br />

combs were carved from wood by the chelik<br />

who would offer them to their favourite motiari.<br />

To wear many combs in her hair used to<br />

be a cause of special pride to every <strong>Muria</strong> girl...<br />

<strong>The</strong> rare occasion that I ever saw a <strong>Muria</strong> girl<br />

with open hair - I spoiled it. Yet I always liked<br />

this dreamy image out of focus as it may be.<br />

I had been photographing scenes of family<br />

life outside of her parents’ house. She and her<br />

mother were doing each other’s hair in the fading<br />

light of late afternoon. For a few moments<br />

I got distracted by some younger kids playing.<br />

<strong>The</strong>n I looked up again and saw her thus...<br />

26


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As with other tribal people the <strong>Muria</strong> women, too, wear tattoos on faces, shoulders, arms and other parts of the body<br />

<strong>The</strong>y, however, are not only considered as beauty marks but bear a spiritual significance as well.<br />

Making them is rather painful and I remember Elwin relating a number of myths explaining why it had to be done.<br />

One of them – which stuck to my mind for obvious reasons I guess – explains tattooing as a kind of penance for primordial<br />

women who then had their vaginas equipped with... teeth.<br />

‘Vagina dentata’ is in fact a myth not uncommon in Asia – and not unknown in our part of the world either – Sigmund<br />

Freud talks about it within the context of fear of castration in his Psychoanalytic <strong>The</strong>ory.<br />

28<br />

Off the record: Labour<br />

Traditional tribal life is embedded into an economy not based on money. Statistically<br />

they are poor. But this is just numbers and does not make their life<br />

any less rich. <strong>The</strong> very moment, however, they want to partake in the luxuries<br />

of the ‘civilized’ world they have to step into the modern economy and earn<br />

money. Here their native skills won’t count much. <strong>The</strong> hardest and least paid<br />

labour will usually be reserved for them. <strong>The</strong>y will have money but now they<br />

will be poor. Really poor, not only statistically. Like this <strong>Muria</strong> woman whom<br />

I found toiling at a road construction site while the Indian foreman kept a<br />

vigil eye on her.


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Epilogue: <strong>The</strong> undeclared War<br />

One of the most threatening developments that has taken place in Bastar since my stay in 1979 is the Naxalite<br />

insurgency and the Operation Green Hunt. <strong>The</strong> Naxalites are a group of radical Maoist communists that started<br />

an insurgency as far back as 1967 in the village of Naxalbari in West-Bengal (hence their name). Through the<br />

years they have spread their activities to several states in the east of India, mainly remote and poor rural areas.<br />

From what I read they try to bring villages under their control establishing a clandestine administration in accordance<br />

with their ideological beliefs. <strong>The</strong> district of Bastar, where the <strong>Muria</strong> live, is one of the most affected<br />

areas. As can be expected, they are said to be opposed to traditional features like the Ghotul life.<br />

In 2009 the Indian forces seem to have started a massive counter operation called ‘Green Hunt’. I use the word<br />

‘seem’ for the government officially denies this and never uses the term. But the press is free in India, so let me<br />

quote an article of the renowned paper ‘<strong>The</strong> Hindu’ from February 2010:<br />

“An operation is underway in Central India, but no one really knows what it is… Privately, sources in the security<br />

apparatus admit that part of the confusion is by design rather than by default to control the information available<br />

to Naxal commanders. At present, the only information independently confirmed by <strong>The</strong> Hindu relates to the Bastar<br />

Zone, a 40,000 square kilometre area in Chhattisgarh that lies at heart of the battle.”<br />

And as to the effect on the local people <strong>The</strong> Hindu concludes: “In a police operation with no clear name, timeline<br />

or goal, fought against a guerrilla force that rarely wears uniforms, the adivasis [tribal people] are learning that<br />

each side extracts a heavy price for supporting the other.”<br />

Fighting keeps going on as can be seen from a clip of journalist Akash Banerjee on Youtube. While he highlights<br />

the government’s anti-insurgency measures former novelist Arundhati Roy joined the Naxalite fighters<br />

for a long walk through the jungle and a report from within.<br />

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<strong>The</strong> shaman<br />

31


Postscript<br />

It was January 3 of the year 1979. I went to bed early that day. For what else could I<br />

do in that dull little town Narayanpur in the middle of a remote district called Bastar<br />

which the Madhya Pradesh government preferably used for disciplinary transfers? I<br />

was in a very depressed mood. For days I had been trying to provide for the means of<br />

visiting the tribal villages with the aid of local administrators - to absolutely no avail.<br />

I was surrounded by the <strong>Muria</strong> world and could not reach it.<br />

You can't just take the next local bus to a tribal village. Most of them lay far off the<br />

road and it takes a jeep or a long hike to reach them. You need a translator, your own<br />

food if planning to stay, gifts for the villagers… not to forget an invitation in the first<br />

place.<br />

I fell into a restless doze when I suddenly heard my name being called. I pushed the<br />

pillow on my head trying to shoo away those imaginary voices. I heard it again. And<br />

again. This wasn’t an Indian accent. But I knew I was absolutely the only western person<br />

in town and doubted my sanity. Just to make sure I got up and opened the door.<br />

Outside Roderic was standing, smilingly. "I have heard in Jagdalpur" - about 200 kilometres<br />

away! - "that you are out here on a field trip" he said matter-of-factly. "Same<br />

with me,” he added. “I think we might work together."<br />

Yes, together we made it :)<br />

Thank you, Rod!<br />

Some further reading:<br />

Professor Roderic Knight fully equipped for the field<br />

trip<br />

Verrier Elwin: <strong>The</strong> <strong>Muria</strong> and their ghotul. Oxford University Press, 1947.<br />

Verrier Elwin: <strong>The</strong> Kingdom of the Young. Oxford University Press, 1968. [Abridged version of <strong>The</strong> <strong>Muria</strong> and their Ghotul].<br />

Simeran Man Singh Gell: <strong>The</strong> Ghotul in <strong>Muria</strong> Society, Harwood Academic, 1992.<br />

Ruby Gupta: A kingdom of the unmarried, 2002, http://www.tribuneindia.com/2002/2002030<br />

Regina Ray: Aus der Mitte Indiens, Manuskript für Bayrischer Rundfunk (BR2), 2005, http://www.reginaray.de/ausdermitteindiens.htm<br />

Ajit Bhattarcharjea: Bastar Diary, Outlook India, 1999, http://www.outlookindia.com/article.aspx?208534<br />

K.L. Kamat: <strong>The</strong> Ghotul System of Education, 2002, www.kamat.com/kalranga/bastar/ghotul.htm<br />

Madhu Ramnath: Miseducation in Bastar, India Environmental Portal, 2003, http://www.indiaenvironmentportal.org.in/node/12685<br />

Chris Curling: <strong>The</strong> <strong>Muria</strong>, 30 minutes documentary film, <strong>The</strong> Royal Anthropological Institute of Great Britain and Ireland (RAI), 1982,<br />

http://www.therai.org.uk/film/volume-ii-contents/the-mu<br />

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