Ferment CBR 1 // The Craft Beer Rising Edition

jamesbeer52

A special edition of Ferment for Craft Beer Rising 2017.

Adventures in the Global Craft Alcohol Movement

John

Keeling

Meet the Godfather

of craft beer


Born in the 70’s. Still an original.

When we started Butcombe Brewing Co. in 1978,

we didn’t set out to be in fashion, but we still made

a statement. By making perfectly balanced,

great tasting beer we’ve stood the test of time.

Today, unlike certain 70’s fads, we’re still on trend.

COME HAVE A PINT WITH US

AT CRAFT BEER RISING

BUTCOMBE.COM


9

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Editor’s

Note

Welcome to Craft Beer Rising 2017, and what a show it is this year; the very best breweries

from the UK and beyond, bringing an unrivalled selection of exciting, innovative beers to

share with the most knowledgeable and (dare I say it) beautiful bunch of beer lovers you’ll

find anywhere in the world. Plus live music, great food... we may never leave.

As well as profiling some of the brilliant breweries in this year’s line-up, we have a great

introductory piece from Pete Brown, a typically fiery column from Melissa Cole and a longread

debate from Matt Curtis; just a sample of the kind of indispensable beer knowledge

you could get every month with a regular subscription to Ferment (cough cough).

We’ve had a tonne of fun putting together this very special issue just for the festival, so we

hope you enjoy it. We’ll also be milling around in our natty new Ferment t-shirts, so stop us

and say hi. Or buy us a pint if you feel so motivated.

Cheers,

Richard

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Our contributors

Contents

Pete Brown

WRITER

Pete is one of the UK’s most

respected beer writers. Over the

last twelve years he’s written five

and a half books about beer, pubs

and cider and why they matter.

Melissa Cole

WRITER

Certified Cicerone® and beer &

food writer, Melissa Cole is one

of the UK’s leading beer experts.

Author of Let Me Tell You About

Beer, international beer judge,

collaboration brewer, sommALEier

and regular festival presenter.

Fraser Doherty

WRITER

Co-founder of Beer52, amateur

home-brewer, avid traveller,

jam-maker and author of two

books. Follow him on Twitter and

Instagram @fraserdoherty

8-13: Come together

Pete Brown revels in the beauty

of a good beer festival

14-21: Fuller’s

Catch up with the Godfather of

craft, John Keeling

24-27: LAM

Meet one of the UK’s most

exciting new breweries

30-35: Beer52

The club that brings the craft

beer revolution to your door

Daniel Orley

WRITER

Daniel Orley recently relocated with his brilliant wife from Colorado to

Liverpool. They now regularly travel Europe looking for the best regional

craft beer, wine and food. He still calls football soccer.

Zsolt Stefkovics

PHOTOGRAPHER

Zsolt’s passion for craft beer

started with a bottle of Brooklyn

IPA at a dingy Stockholm bar in

2012. The Hungarian-born film

graduate has been exploring craft

alcohol ever since.

James Beeson

WRITER

James Beeson is a freelance journalist and the founder & editor of the

blog Beeson on Beer. He has written articles on beer for The Independent,

HuffingtonPost UK and The Brewers Journal. @jdbeeson16

42-43: Spanish craft

Morganrot talks us through

Spain’s own craft beer scene

44-49: Charles Wells

With a new brand and beers on

keg, it’s a big year for Charlie

56-57: Goose Island

Inside the American craft giant

62-63: Butcombe

Quietly radical since 1978

The Team

Editor in Chief

Richard Croasdale

This issue of Ferment was first printed in

February 2017 in England, UK by JamJar.

All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or

in part without written permission is strictly

prohibited. All prices are correct at the time of

going to press but are subject to change.

Published by:

Ferment & Beer52,

Floor 3,

26 Howe Street,

Edinburgh,

EH3 6TG

Twitter | Instagram

@fermenthq

Contributions, comments, rants:

richard@beer52.com

Advertising

To discuss how Ferment could work with

your brand, request a media pack or book

an advert, contact David Laird

david@beer52.com

72-73: Melissa Cole

Our star columnist takes on

bigotry in brewing

76-85: Debate

Matt Curtis looks at

internationalisation

90-93: Westons

Traditional cider makes a

stand in the age of beer

104-115: Listings

Your indispensible guide to Craft

Beer Rising 2017


Golden age

Pete Brown reflects on today’s thriving

craft beer scene, and what events like

Craft Beer Rising mean for its future

Words: Pete Brown

Photographs: Wyatt Dixon

Ten years ago, I was standing

in a queue on the street in

Denver, Colorado. The line

stretched several hundred yards

back from the massive Colorado

Convention Centre. Touts passed up

and down, buying and selling tickets.

They were doing good business. And

I couldn’t believe my eyes, because

I was waiting to get into a beer

festival. “Can you imagine?” I wrote

at the time. “This would never, ever

happen at a British beer festival.”

Ten years later, here we are.

Welcome to Craft Beer Rising. You

were lucky to get a ticket. I hope the

queue wasn’t too long to get in.

In 2017 craft beer is several

different things. And if there’s still

any confusion about what craft beer

means, whether the term is any

use to anyone, it’s in the potential

for conflict between the different

agendas driving the craft beer boom.

Craft beer is fashionable. It’s

hip. This leads some inevitably to

conclude that it’s a bubble; a blip

that’ll disappear when East London

gets bored of it and moves onto the

next shiny thing.

Craft beer is a business. If you

can’t make money from what you

do, you can’t pay your mortgage,

buy food, or worse, afford to drink

craft beer at the prices they charge

for it in London. Currently, money

is moving from big, global lager

brands to small, artisanal craft beer

brands. You might not like that

bigger brewers are muscling in

and launching beers you might not

regard as ‘real craft’, but from their

point of view, they’d be stupid if they

didn’t at least try.

Craft beer is, when all is said and

done, beer. It’s a very pleasant drink.

To some people – millions in fact –

that’s all it is. That doesn’t mean they

enjoy or appreciate it any less than

someone who regards themselves as

a serious fan.

But to some – and I suspect to most

people who have read this far – craft

beer is a movement. It’s not just

something to drink, it’s something

to read, write and talk about.

It’s something to believe in. It’s a

statement about who you are, the

choices you make and the company

you keep.

When craft beer is a movement,

you can get pissed off by the

intrusion of the big global

brewers and by those who dismiss

your passion as a fad. You can

occasionally find yourself talking

8 Ferment Magazine

Ferment Magazine 9


about the politics of beer rather than

the beer itself. You can sometimes

get so far in that you momentarily

forget what attracted you in the first

place, until you once more taste a

beer that rocks your world.

But the movement is what

gives this thing its energy and its

personality. That’s what has created

a situation whereby not just at

Craft Beer Rising, but also at events

like IndyManBeerCon, the Leeds

International Beer festival and even

at relatively small, local events such

as the first Stoke Newington Beer

Festival back in January this year,

tickets can sell out well in advance

and create a genuine buzz around

town, in a way I thought impossible

ten years ago while I was standing in

line in Denver.

Festivals and special events work

perfectly with craft beer because

they represent a break from the

norm. If you go to a typical pub,

you’re in ‘the local’, where ‘regulars’

go for ‘a pint of the usual’.

But when you pay money for a

festival, the normal rules are off.

You’ve decided by definition to

see, do, listen to or taste something

different, something new. To be a

little more adventurous. When you

go to a music festival, you end up

seeing bands you wouldn’t cross the

street for in normal life. At literary

festivals you discover new authors.

At a food and/or drink festival, you

put things in your mouth you’ve

never tasted before.

Festivals – deep in their

anthropological DNA – represent a

suspension of normal routine. In

their grandest sense, Rio’s Carnival,

or the Mexican Day of the Dead, or

Oktoberfest are environments in

which normal routine and, crucially,

normal rules, are suspended.

And festivals are about

communality shared experience. In

our atomised society where what we

see on the news and in social media

is increasingly terrifying, to make

us suspicious of others, festivals

represent a joyful communion with

like-minded people.

This is all wonderful for food or

music or literature – and the number

of festivals dedicated to each has

increased massively in the last

decade, unleashing our suppressed

need to get together and have a good

time. But just think how much more

relevant this thing is for beer.

Beer is the most sociable drink in

the world. For thousands of years,

people have drunk it communally.

Pictures of ancient Mesopotamians

show them gathering around large

pots, sharing the contents through

long straws. Archaeological finds of

these pots in the twentieth century

revealed them to have been made

of precious materials, and deposits

inside have been carbon-dated and

proven to be from beer.

Today, everywhere in the world

you go, while the styles and serving

methods of beer may change, that

beer moment, the instant when you

raise your glass to your lips with

good friends and have some kind of

toast, however informal, is universal

and timeless.

So you’ve got the world’s most

sociable drink, and now you’ve

got it in endless variety, infinite

permutations, a field of constant

discovery. No wonder everything is

kicking off.

Ten years ago, I was scornful of

the traditional CAMRA beer festival.

Everyone knew the format – or at

least, everyone who was interested

in going did, and that was quite a

narrow sliver of the population.

These places only served real ale,

and while there were good and

bad and wonderful examples of

that particular beer variant, there

wasn’t too much bandwidth in terms

of flavour and character, and an

obsession with how the beer was kept

and served sometimes got in the way

of whether it was any good or not.

Those festivals had, and still have,

their place. Real ale is a phenomenal

product when it’s in the hands of

people who care about it and know

what they’re doing with it, and such

festivals keep a valuable tradition

alive and occasionally introduce

brave new souls to it. But as an

exhibition of the full potential of

beer, when craft beer gathered pace

CAMRA festivals found themselves

increasingly lacking, and tied

themselves up in political knots. It’s

good for both the real ale die-hard

and the craft beer neophyte that

there are now festivals that run

alongside, not instead of, the trad

real ale fest. You don’t have to decide

which you prefer – you can go to

both if you like, or if not, you can

ignore the one you disagree with –

10 Ferment Magazine

Ferment Magazine 11


Festivals are about

communality, shared

experience... a joyful

communion with

like-minded people

it’s doing no harm to your favourite.

Both the traditional real ale

festival and the new craft beer

festival are growing in popularity,

because there’s so much more beer

to enjoy, in so many different forms.

Beer is not just being drunk; it’s

being celebrated as never before.

And this celebration carries back

into beer’s symbiotic partner, the

pub. You can’t have a proper pub

without beer. And while you can

have good beer without a proper

pub, let’s be honest: it won’t be as

good. (The ‘big pubs’ of the fleeting

festival notwithstanding.)

You’ve probably heard that pubs

are struggling. They used to be the

default leisure option for Brits: the

people you were going out with,

and the reasons you were going out,

might change the choice or style of

pub, but you were obviously going

to go to a pub of some kind.

Now, you might meet up in a

coffee shop, a shopping mall, a

cinema foyer, a health club. Yes, of

course they’re all a bit shit if you

compare them to your favourite

pub, but you’re more conscious of

your health and body shape now,

and you’re trying to limit your

alcohol consumption. You don’t go to

the pub as often as people did even

twenty years ago.

Pubs don’t want to lose you,

so for a long time, they’ve been

trying to reinvent themselves as

something else, hoping you won’t

notice that underneath, they’re still

pubs. The gastropub revolutionized

British eating habits until the

British decided it wasn’t trendy

any more, when it became the ‘bar

and kitchen’, or worse, an ‘eatery.’

Instead of pubs that showed a bit

of sport we got ‘sports bars’. We got

pubs that installed a permanent DJ

booth to become pre-club ‘lounges’.

Others started to serve coffee and

became ‘café bars’.

Somewhere, there’s a role for each

of these ‘concepts’. But last year,

while writing a book about pubs, I

was asked to pick out any trends I

could see that pointed to the future

for pubs in general.

I spotted three.

First, and most dramatically,

there was the craft beer pub: strip

out any decoration or furniture

it’s possible to do without; expose

any raw brickwork, breeze blocks,

ventilation ducts you can; make sure

all light-bulbs are bare filament; and

absolutely ensure there are no soft

furnishings to soak up the ambient

noise, so that if there are more than

three people in the bar, they have

to shout to be heard. Stock no beers

any average punter has heard of.

Second, there’s the kind of pub

not many city-dwellers have heard

of, but it’s causing quite a stir in the

provinces. Spearheaded by Leicester

brewer Everards and their ‘Project

William’ scheme, this involves

finding ‘failed’ pubs – those that

have been through all the ideas and

concepts and none of them have

worked – and turning them back

into traditional community pubs,

allowing a local microbrewer free

reign over the cask ale selection so

long as they buy their wines, spirits

and soft drinks through the bigger

brewer that’s put up the money to

resuscitate the pub.

And thirdly, there’s the micropub.

Generally these are not failed

pubs, but former shops and offices

repurposed as a kind of ‘amateur’

pub, strongly reminiscent of the

indie ethic in music from the

late 1970s to the early 1990s, run

exclusively by people who care

about beer, on their own terms, free

from corporate ties, opening when

they feel like it.

Each of these schemes is exciting.

And then I realized: each of them is

about stripping the pub back to what

it’s supposed to be about: serving

good beer in an environment that

facilitates good conversation. Who

would have thought, that the idea

the pub was based on a thousand

years ago, that has been consistent

through its entire history, might

be the same idea that points out its

future direction?

Drink good beer. It’s an idea that

will never really go out of fashion or

lose its lustre.

12 Ferment Magazine

Ferment Magazine 13


THE

ORIGINAL

Once more

with Keeling 67

Words: Robin Eveleigh

UNFILTERED

The new beer from Fuller’s.

Dry hopped and unfiltered for a fuller flavour.

Made with British pale malt and Target hops.

Naturally hazy. 4.1% ABV. Serve cold.

Despite its reputation for

safe, comfortable beers, the

beloved London institution

that is Fuller, Smith and Turner

occupies a special place in the hearts

of even the most devoted disciples of

weapons-grade Lupulin.

While the often poorly-judged

efforts of other old school breweries

playing craft beer catch-up are

slapped down with scorn, Fuller’s

tiptoes a fine line between

tradition and innovation, shrewdly

positioning itself as paternal mentor

of the London brewing scene.

Rumours abound of Fuller’s

sharing brewhouse expertise with

some of the fledgling start-ups that

have gone on to define the capital’s

beer renaissance, and the imposing

Griffin brewery that looms over

the Great West Road has hosted

many a London Brewers Alliance

meet-up. The new kids and the old

guard, chewing the fat over pints of

London Pride.

It is perhaps fitting, then, that

when the UK’s biggest craft beer

festival – Craft Beer Rising – throws

Ferment Magazine 15

DRINKAWARE.CO.UK


Meet the brewer: John Keeling

We’re famous for

making good cask

beer, but we want to

be equally famous

for making good

keg beer

open its doors to over 2000 thirsty punters later

this month, it will be with Fuller’s, London’s last

surviving family brewer, as lead sponsor.

Brewing Director John Keeling is unequivocal:

This is no granddad wearing jeans moment, this

is not your dad dancing to Skepta. Fuller’s has

as much right as anyone – more, even – to break

bread and pop crown caps with the new wave of

craft beer innovators and their legions of fans.

“We’ve been inspirational to the craft beer world

– we helped instigate it – and we don’t have to

apologise for being innovative,” he says defiantly,

fresh from a stint of collaborative State-side

brewing at the Sierra Nevada Beer Camp.

In his three-and-a-half decade tenure at Fuller’s

Chiswick HQ, where brewing has taken place

continually for over 350 years, Keeling has seen

some changes.

Starting out as a Junior Brewer in 1981, he took

on the directorship at the turn of the century. In

the years since, he’s helmed £60m in brewery

investment, added to the range of revered staples

such as London Porter, ESB and 1845 with a raft

of more modern keg offerings, and helped mould

the Fuller’s brand into the beer and food industry

powerhouse it is today.

Those ubiquitous Fuller’s pump clips and font

badges are only a tiny part of the story: Fuller’s

runs almost 400 managed and tenanted pubs,

a Michelin-starred gastro-pub, boutique hotel

rooms and a 76% share in The Stable gourmet

pizza / craft cider restaurant chain. It has an arm

in wholesale through their controlling stake in

Nectar Imports; And those Sierra Nevada stubbies

that have been a craft gateway for so many? They

are now imported to the UK exclusively by Fuller’s.

This month, using Craft Beer Rising as a

launchpad, and in a move that will have the cask

faithful spilling tears into their dimpled pint pots,

Fuller’s unveils its latest beery offering.

True to form, and playing to Fuller’s undeniable

strengths, the newest addition to their stable

will be an unfiltered version of London Pride,

dispensed on keg.

Keeling explains: “We’ve always been interested

in the world of flavour and getting as much

flavour into our beer as possible, whatever the

format. We’re famous for making good cask beer,

but we want to be equally famous for making

good keg beer, and the key to that is having the

most natural flavour and the least processing.

“Traditionally, keg beer has been filtered and

pasteurised and it’s been judged on how clear it

is, rather than what it tastes like.

“People have demanded extraordinary long

shelf lives - but we’re not interested in that

for this beer. It’s got a relatively short shelf

life of about nine weeks, but it maintains that

16 Ferment Magazine

Ferment Magazine 17


Meet the brewer: John Keeling

traditional London Pride malty flavour, with a

nice hoppy background and a bitter finish.”

He adds that extra dry-hopping will

compensate for flavour lost to the chilled pour,

and instead of using Isinglass finings, Fuller’s

will employ a centrifuge. “We’re not really

picky about this being totally clear, we’re more

interested in flavour than clarity,” he says.

For the thousands of craft beer drinkers

who have been singing the praises of unfined,

unfiltered and naturally hazy beers from casks,

kegs, bottles and cans for years, this might sound

like preaching to the converted.

It’s as though the wheel – along with Fuller’s

new £2m centrifuge – has turned full circle, but

London Pride Unfiltered is a smarter move than

you might give it credit for, and it would be naive

to think this is aimed at the hop-obsessed craft

cognoscenti.

Instead, Fuller’s seems intent on deploying it as

a kind of craft beer evangelism project with the

goal of – to borrow a phrase – truly refreshing the

parts other beers cannot reach.

There’s no rule that says popular beer has

to be crap,” says Keeling. “I’m hoping this will

act as a bridge for craft beer to move on to

more widespread accounts, to areas that want

interesting beers and are just waking up to the

craft beer world.

“For example, you go to a four or five star hotel,

look at the bar choice and more often than not

it’s just depressing. It’s Guinness, Fosters or John

Smith’s Smooth. I think London Pride Unfiltered

would fit the bill there.

“In a similar way, I want to be able to go to a

wedding reception and get a good beer. A major

fault of the craft beer world is it’s not breaking

into those places as well as it should.”

Keeling dismisses the anti-trad sniffiness of

many more recent craft beer converts as nothing

more than a reaction of a younger generation to

an older one. “It goes in a cycle, and it really is as

simple as that,” he says.

And Fuller’s must be doing something right; in

the second half of 2016 it toasted ‘strong growth’ in

their craft beer brands, with profits up even while

their overall beer and cider volumes fell by 4%.

“Any snobbery out there is drinker-led rather

than brewer-led, they should listen to the people

making the beer they like because I don’t think

you’ll find any brewers with a bad word to say

about Fuller’s,” says Keeling.

“I can’t make people perceive things differently

because it’s all about image. The only way we can

do that is to pour millions and millions of pounds

into marketing to show that everybody loves us

really. I’d prefer people to drink the beer.

“If you want to drink massively hopped IPAs,

then maybe Fuller’s isn’t the place for you, but

bear in mind massively hopped IPAs can be as

boring as standard lagers because they have

little complexity. I like my beers to have more

complexity and more subtlety than that. And

I want the loyalty in London Pride or Frontier

or any of our other beers to be because of the

flavour – not because of the marketing.”

Fuller’s has never shied away from kicking

up some dust with the younger crowd, enjoying

collaborations with Beavertown, Yeastie Boys,

Four Pure and Five Points.

It teamed up with Moor for an Extra Special

Bitter, Relentless Optimism, and is revered

by brewing communities worldwide for its

tradecraft and expertise, honed over decades.

There is talk of a rumoured Gose collaboration

with Heretic’s Jamil Zainachef and – as we discuss

18 Ferment Magazine

Ferment Magazine 19


New wave

Craft lager

collaborations – Keeling lets slip the details of a

forthcoming project that will see Fuller’s partnerup

with a team of newer and emerging breweries.

“It will show how Fuller’s really is a part of this.

The family brewers of Britain helped preserve

great beer in this country – and long may that

continue. At some point the younger craft beer

drinkers are going to appreciate that. Cream rises

to the top.”

Whether that tipping point is reached in the

20 months Keeling has left at Fuller’s before his

retirement remains to be seen, but for now he’s

convinced there has never been a better time to

be a brewer.

“It’s certainly the best time in my whole

career,” he says.

In the time he has left, it’s back to the craft

evangelism, spreading the Fuller’s word to areas

he sees as “starved of choice”, turning taste buds

on to “the world of flavour rather than the world

of appearance”.

“I want us to find a popular beer that is also

a good beer, and create mass market appeal for

craft. I don’t want it to be this great secret - 10%

of the population understands it and we’re all

happy. Why not 60% of Britain’s population

drinking craft beer?

“How that pans out between big and small

companies is for the market to decide, for the

future to decide. But let’s have some ambition.

Great beer should be drunk by everybody. It

shouldn’t be an exclusive club.”

To craft something special, you need to take it

somewhere different. Frontier is a hand crafted

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One to watch: LAM

5

Laugh

A Minute

Words: Fraser Doherty

Photography: Zsolt Stefkovics

The creation of former homebrewer

Kurt Moxley, LAM

Brewing was inspired by

a ‘how to set up a micro-brewery’

course gifted to him by his partner,

Nicky. “I went along to test the water

and see if this might be for me,” he

explains. It turned out to be right up

his street and already this young,

experimental Oxford-based brewery

is looking for new distribution for

its flavour-forward range of boldlydesigned

craft beers.

Like a lot of new brewers, Kurt

built a team around him with the

help of family and friends to get

things off the ground.

“My good friend, Kelvin, a graphic

designer, drew the chimp logo and

another friend Phillip designed the

website,” he says.

Putting his own energy into

perfecting his range of beers, Kurt

soon created a range of three bottleconditioned

beers, including his

now-popular Happily NYK.

You might not imagine it’s possible

to start a commercial brewery from

your own kitchen, but that’s exactly

what Kurt did. “I was brewing 50L

batches in the kitchen at weekends,

with everything legally registered

with HMRC as a brewery,” he says.

It took a lot of Saturdays standing

in the cold at farmers’ markets, with

the help of Nicky, but soon LAM

Brewing developed a following.

Before long, its beers were being

served in a local Indian restaurant,

Oxford’s Oddbins and later the

local Wetherspoon’s. Things were

getting serious. So much so, that

Kurt decided to leave his job with

the NHS to focus on moving his

brewing out of the kitchen and into a

much bigger setting.

Scoring a Merit in his Brewlab

Certificate course gave him all the

confidence he needed to make the

leap. With lots of research into

equipment and brewery design, Kurt

eventually commissioned a modern

ten-barrel craft brewhouse and

landed the lease of an industrial unit.

Up and running since September

2016, he has brought on board

the help of another good friend

and former home brewer, Mark

Dewhurst.

24

Ferment Magazine

Ferment Magazine 25


One to watch: LAM

One to watch: LAM

With little more than the

Thames between his home and the

brewery in Oxford’s leafy suburb

of Kennington, Kurt has the luxury

of a five-minute stroll to work from

Sandford-on-Thames. Mark lives a

little further upstream and is known

to canoe to work. He even took the

opportunity to show off his paddling

skills as part of our photoshoot. It’s

easy to see why they call themselves

Laugh-A-Minute.

“Well, we have a bloody good

laugh doing this,” Kurt chuckles.

Pubs in Oxford have a vibrant

mix of students and locals, with a

developing craft beer scene, so it’s

a great time for LAM to increase

capacity. Around a dozen pubs stock

the LAM range and this is set to

increase dramatically.

Although a lot of Oxford places

are still pretty traditional in their

beer selections, Kurt and Mark

enjoy sharing their craft brews in

an attempt to convert more people

to local craft beer. They strongly

believe that working with others in

the craft game is the way forward to

broaden the availability of quality

craft beer in Oxford.

The only brewery in Oxford to put

all its beers into either cans or kegs,

LAM Brewing is enthusiastic about

limiting the environmental impact

and is proud of its links to the local

communities and the support it

We go to sleep

thinking of

beer, dreaming

and waking up

thinking beer

receives. LAM is a member of Good

Food Oxford and the Oxford Alliance

of Brewers, and even sponsors the

local ice-hockey team.

The visibility of LAM is obvious,

with Kurt and Mark driving around

in their chimp-emblazoned van,

attracting the attention of people of

all ages. Everything associated with

the brewery is ‘chimped-up’, from its

cheeky craft cans and merchandise,

through to the massive logo on the

brewery exterior.

Kurt and Mark’s obsession about

craft beer is easy to see. “We go to

sleep thinking of beer, dreaming

and waking up thinking of beer,”

Kurt says.

Excited to be a new member of

the UK’s craft beer community, these

guys are major hop-heads. They love

tasting new beer styles and testing

out their expertise, by turning what

they like into new exciting recipes.

All their brews are ‘played-with’ on

the old 50L ‘kitchen kit’ first before

scaling up to commercial quantities.

LAM is taking four beers to Craft

Beer Rising; Happily NYK (American

IPA), Rye Not? (Rye IPA), Cloud

Pleaser (Bavarian wheat beer) and

the very last of their experimental

Hoption 1 brew (hoppy APA – “if you

like hops, this one’s for you; it’ll pull

the liquid off your tongue!”).

Its experimentation has only just

begun and Hoption 2 is already in

the tanks. Be sure to taste its beers

for yourself at this year’s Craft Beer

Rising; they’ll be waiting to greet you

on Stand five.

“We really see the festival as our

launch party, and a great chance to

make new contacts,” says Kurt.

Only a few months into its

adventure in the new brewhouse,

LAM Brewing is surely set for a long

future of experimenting, brewing

quality beers and having fun

every minute.

Get in touch

lambrewing.com

kurt@lambrewing.com

26 Ferment Magazine

Ferment Magazine 27


Highway to

HELLS

Join us in Enfield, for a sneak preview of

Camden’s new state-of-the-art brewery

Q: Tell us about the new brewery

A: We’ve been out of space at our

brewery in Camden for some time

now, so building a new facility has

been top of our priorities. We’re

producing on-site from late April and

the new brewery will be open to the

public from late June.

Q: What beers will you produce

at the Enfield site?

A: We will produce all the favourites:

Hells Lager, Camden Pale Ale,

Gentleman’s Wit, Camden Pils Lager,

IHL Lager and Ink Stout. We will

have a new beer joining the family

closer to opening, which will only be

brewed at the new Enfield brewery.

Q: What new kit have you

brought in?

A: Brewery is a Krones turnkey,

100-hectolitre five-vessel brewhouse

which will allow us to brew more of

our great distinctive Camden beers.

The rest is KHS for kegs and CFT

for bottling and canning. They’re

all leaders in quality and energy

efficiency within the brewing world,

which will reduce our energy use and

minimise our environmental impact.

We’ve invested in an incredibly

efficient brewing system, with focus

on energy and water usage. The

brewery itself has roof covered in

solar panels and all rain water is

collected for irrigation and is soaked

into the ground as opposed to using

public drains.

Q: Why did you choose Enfield?

A: We worked long and hard to find

a new home and Enfield in London,

like Camden, is vibrant, understated

and another great community.

Q: Tell us more about the

visitors’ centre

A: It will be a completely immersive

and awesome Camden experience;

a total 360 on the brewing and

beer. Just like Camden, there’ll be

a brewery bar, with fun areas to

socialise and view the brewing

facility. We are planning some fun

activities throughout the year for

our customers and consumers to

come down and get involved, so

keep an eye out for updates.

Q: How many more people will

be hired at the new brewery?

A: The company has increased by

over 40% in the past 12 months

in preparation for Enfield and to

support our growing customer base.

Keep an eye on our website job

section where we post our new roles.

28 Ferment Magazine

Ferment Magazine 29


My Story

What’s

James Brown, Founder of Beer52

?

Almost five years ago, I went on a

motorcycle road trip with my Dad. I had

no idea that this jaunt around Europe

would go on to change my life, but that’s exactly

what it did. While we wound our way through

the country roads of Belgium, we stopped at tiny

breweries and tap rooms to quench our thirsts.

The beers we drank on our route between

Edinburgh and Faro blew my mind. Until

then, I had no idea that beers could be sour,

fruity, barrel-aged or mega hoppy. The styles

I uncovered with my Dad changed my whole

perception of beer forever.

And ever since then, I’ve been on a mission to

share great beers with other people. After getting

back back home to Scotland, I figured; “wouldn’t

it be a great idea to start a club, where every

month we could pick a selection of beers from a

new country each time?”.

With the help of my friends (it wasn’t hard to

convince them) we started tasting the world’s

beers in earnest. There’s nothing we enjoy more

than cracking open a bunch of new beers, trying

them together and sharing our thoughts.

We’ve been tasting ever since! Thousands of

different beers have passed our lips and we’ve

had the pleasure of sharing our favourites with

the tens of thousands of other drinkers who have

joined us on this adventure.

If you’re not already a member, I look forward

to welcoming you to Beer52 soon!

30 Ferment Magazine

Ferment Magazine 31

T

u

c

p

f


Q&A with

Fraser Doherty

Beer52’s second ever Beer Taster

Beer in the post?

What more could you possibly want from life?

So…. You taste beer for a living?

I sure do. Our office is on the third floor and the poor

postman has to carry cases of samples up the stairs

every day. Brewers send us their latest beers and we

taste them all – some are great, some are just OK.

We buy the best ones to share with our members.

And, of course, the postie gets to take a few back

down the stairs with him!

But, really… you just drink beer all day?

Haha, well there’s a lot more to running a craft beer

club than drinking beer; we visit breweries to create

exclusive collaboration beers for our members,

host tasting events and review the world’s best craft

beer bars for Ferment. Actually, when you put it like

that… I guess we do drink beer all day.

How do you decide on a theme for a box?

Every month, we focus on a new place for example,

we head over to Colorado, Belgium or Denmark and

pick the best beers. Aside from getting to visit our

all-time brewing heroes on these trips, we get to

educate our members about a new range of styles

every month.

Which is your personal favourite brewery?

Oh God, people do ask but that’s like picking a

favourite band. I’ve personally had a lot of fun

spending time with the guys at Mikkeller in

Copenhagen and when we did a ‘Colorado Takeover’

month, I got to visit Oskar Blues in the US. I love

their tropical-fruit- juicy, hoppy-as-hell IPAs.

Any hidden gems?

For me, our current box is maybe our best ever. For

a long time, we’ve wanted to go back to the country

that inspired this whole adventure – Belgium. The

selection crosses the divide of ancient Trappist

monastery brewers like Westmalle, all the way up

to modern craft brewers like Brussels Beer Project.

There’s more than one gem in that box, I can tell you!

What’s the future of craft beer?

The exciting thing is that craft beer is evolving at

breakneck speed and Beer52’s success is testament

to that. Having spent some time exploring the scene

in the US, the atmosphere around craft is so much

more developed – you can buy amazing beers in a

petrol station or at any restaurant. In the UK, there’s

a long way to go, and we’re excited to be a part of

that journey.

A new theme every

month: never drink

the same beer

twice.

We only send you

beers we like to

drink ourselves.

Discover beers you

wouldn’t find in the

supermarket.

Customise the

selection to your

tastes and skip a

box anytime

32 Ferment Magazine

Ferment Magazine 33


‘s best bits

“For the first ever

issue of Ferment magazine,

we visited one of our brewing

heroes; Mikkel Borg Bjergsø in

Copenhagen. As well as learning the

story of ‘The Walter White of Craft Beer’,

we enjoyed a night of drinking at

his bar; Mikkeller & Friends.

Inspired by this night, we decided

to brew a beer together for our

members; a single-hopped

Mosaic session

IPA.”

Rob Brown

Operations

Beer is a modern, rapidly changing

world, which as a consumer can be

hard to keep up with. Beer52’s beer

club makes that happen for you. Lean

back, relax and enjoy a beer - Beer52

will do the hard work for you.

Mikkel Borg Bjergsø, founder of Mikkeller

“Having knocked

Trappist monks off the top spot

(I’m pretty sure they’ll go to hell

for that), Stone was voted the best

brewery in the world. We headed to its

new brewery in Berlin and spent some

time with its founders, ultimately bringing

back an insane case of beers for our

members. The highlight for me was

Stone’s Xocoveza – it’s like a Mexican

hot chocolate and made me all

warm and tingly

inside!”

James Taylor

Marketing and Analysis

DON’T FORGET TO CLAIM YOUR

FREE CASE FROM BEER52 USING

THE CARD IN THIS MAGAZINE

Any problems, just shout:

support@beer52.com

UK’s Best

Independent

Beer Retailer

2016

Beer 52 has been an excellent and

consistent market breaker for our

seasonal small-pack beers over the last

three years, a boon also that Beer 52

customers have voted our 5% American

Pale the people’s favourite too.

Rob Davies, Fourpure Brewing Co.

“As a fairly young

company, it was amazing

to get recognized as being the

best in our field. We put a lot of

love into what we do and to win

this award was a big pat on the back

for the team. Not only this, but we

became the first and only online

beer retailer to be voted ‘Excellent’

(9+/10) for customer service by

our members.”

What is really special about what

Beer52 are doing is it’s all about

the same mission; bringing craft

beer to the people.

Greg Koch co-founder at Stone

Brewing Co.

“We made

waves on YouTube

with the launch of our

‘interactive’ (not interactive) Beer

Buddy. He’s like your own personal

drinking companion who can talk to

you about beer and about life. Running

at over 40 minutes long, we made it to

the front page of AdWeek in America

as their ‘Ad of the Day’. You can meet

him for yourself at Beer52.com/

Beerbuddy.”

‘s best bits

Bryce Kitcher

Customer Service

Douglas Garry

Beer Advisor

34 Ferment Magazine

Ferment Magazine 35


Canopy Beer Co

Arch 1127 Bath Factory Estate, 41

Norwood Road, Herne Hill, London,

SE24 9AJ

www.canopybeer.com

Hidden under the railway arches

in Herne Hill, a stone’s throw

from Brockwell Park, you will

find Canopy Beer Co; a small brewery

and tap room that has been brewing

small-batch beers since September

2014. The emphasis is on drinkable,

accessible beers made with minimal

intervention – no filtration, no finings

and no pasteurisation. Craft Beer

Rising marks the launch of its flagship

beer Brockwell IPA in cans, to offer the

freshest possible flavour to this easydrinking

favourite.

2017 brings further expansion

for the team and brewery, but some

things don’t change; there is still the

same commitment to small-batch

quality and to one-off, interesting

and seasonal brews. Consistency and

quality are top priorities for the team,

so all bottling, kegging and canning

takes place on site at the brewery.

If you venture down to the brewery

itself then, in the midst of active

brewing equipment a small bar

welcomes you. With ten keg lines

there’s plenty of choice from the

Canopy range and usually a local or

exotic guest beer on tap too. Tasting

flights, local snacks and a cosy

atmosphere make this ramshackle

taproom well worth a visit.

Find the Canopy team at stand 43,

and bring a copy of your Ferment

magazine for a free drink – the chat is

always free.

The Prince

1 Finsbury Road, Wood Green, London,

N22 8PA

theprincen22.co.uk

This newly-renovated boozer in

the rapidly changing area of

Wood Green in North London

is the latest venture from the team

behind craft beer hotspot The Duke’s

Head in Highgate. Known for its

great atmosphere and impressive

beer list, their first pub set a high

standard, which they’ve lived up to

with this music-oriented brewpub.

Inspired by their backgrounds in

the creative industries, the artwork

and fittings of the pub are instilled

with the founders’ own character.

‘House Brewery’, their on-site

microbrewery, takes inspiration from

their previous collaborations with

the likes of Weird Beard or Anspach

& Hobday, to create some ultra-fresh

brews. Boasting an ever-changing

list of British and international craft

beers and ciders, drinkers can enjoy

the likes of Colorado’s Left Hand and

Hammerton Brewery’s pale ale.

Complementing this great line-up of

drinks, the kitchen offers a range of

modern British sharing plates. With a

family vibe and already huge support

from the local community, it’s easy

to see that 2017 is going to be a great

year for The Prince!

36 Ferment Magazine

Ferment Magazine 37


The Hydrant

Equitable House, 1 Monument St, London

EC3R 8BG

www.thehydrant.co.uk

The most recent winner of the

The Griffin Trophy – the coveted

Fullers award – The Hydrant is a

welcome craft beer-focused addition to

the City scene.

Alongside Fullers’ full craft range, it

boasts an impressive array of Londoncentric

beers on tap and bottle, seasonal

cocktails and inventive fresh food.

With the help of seasonal ingredients,

delivered fresh to the chefs every day,

The Hydrant’s menu offers something

for everyone. It serves up an exciting

mix of small plates from warming

venison goulash to zesty Yassa

chicken, quinoa, heritage beetroot and

lemongrass salad.

The Hydrant plays host to regular

beer and food events and tap takeovers,

most recently welcoming Sierra Nevada,

Thornbridge and Beavertown.

Mondo Tap House

86 Stewards Road, London SW8 4UG

www.mondobrewingcompany.com

Famous for its esoteric range of

beers, Battersea’s Mondo Brewing

Company operates one of our

favourite tap rooms in the capital.

Sporting a handsome copper bar,

exposed brick walls and with a floor-toceiling

view into the action of its shiny

brewery, it’s the perfect spot to enjoy

their ultra-fresh brews or go on a tour

in the brewery right next door.

Inspired by its founders’ travels

around the world, Mondo’s range of

beers include the likes of a German

Altbier, Chocolate and Orange Brown

Ale and an awesome dry-hopped

Kemosabe IPA.

Having brewed in Germany, Spain,

Japan and the US, the brewery’s

founders Todd Matteson and

Thomas Palmer are able to express

the inspirations gained on these

adventures through the Tap House’s 15

taps. Open 5pm-11pm on Wednesday to

Friday, on Saturday from 2pm to 10pm.

Head down to the

Tap House for a free drink

offer ends 31st March 2017


your liquid delicatessen

‘there’s more to life than beer,

you know. But not much more.’

Four years

ago, when

John

Shepherd

and long-time

friend Mark

Grady began 360

Degree Brewing

in East Sussex,

they knew the odds

were stacked against

them. John explains,

“We were conscious that we

weren’t coming from a brewer’s

background. We weren’t experts

in any aspect of the beer industry,

so it was a matter of getting as

many different people involved as

possible.”

Because at four years old, 360

Degree Brewing is doing something

quite unique to the brewery world:

it’s listening.

“When we started, we had specific

focus groups just to get drinkers to

tell us what they liked. Now we have

the Owner’s Club, which meets for

sessions at the brewery four times

a year. They tell us what they like,

what they don’t like, what we should

be doing, and what we shouldn’t.”

Unlike some breweries, 360

Degree Brewing has chosen not to

focus on any particular style of beer.

By listening to their drinkers and the

input of their Owner’s Club, they’ve

created a wide range of beer for

almost every imaginable palette.

A very well-rounded brewery

54

“We like a whole variety of

different beers. Even in the

beginning when the marketing

people were telling us ‘focus, focus,

focus’, we just wanted to brew lots of

different types of beer using unique

ingredients and unique recipes from

all over the place.”

Their eight standard beers range

from American Pale Ales to Stouts,

from Pilsners to full-bodied IPAs,

and everything in-between. This

wide variety is something that keeps

their core audience engaged while

having the ability to acquire new

fans, no matter what type of beer

they prefer.

With such a

wide selection of

styles it would be

easy to sacrifice

quality for variety,

however 360

Degree Brewing has

won gold, silver, and

bronze medals for

several different beer

styles from the Society of

Independent Brewers in the

ultra-competitive London and

South East region.

“When we started it was very

much a part-time ‘Let’s see what

happens’ thing,” John says, “and

since then it’s just been growing and

growing.”

As for the future, John surmises,

“We just want to do more of the

same; more people drinking the

beer, more people telling us what

they like and what they would like

us to do, and continuing to grow a

community around drinking beer.”

By really listening to this

community of beer drinkers and

continuing to create a wide variety

of delicious beer, the expansion

of 360 Degree’s brewing capacity,

personnel, and customer base is not

only likely, but inevitable.

In your exploration of craft beer,

take the time to taste theirs and, if

you’re so obliged, let them know

what you think.

They’ll hear you.

Ferment Magazine 41


The Spanish Armada

1

Over the past few years, Spain

has become another catalyst

to the already frothing global

craft beer market. While the country

is the fourth largest consumer of

beer globally, 90% of production

is accounted for by the large lager

multinationals. There is, therefore,

a lot for the craft scene to compete

for… and against.

According to the Asociación

de Cerveceros de España (The

Brewers of Spain Association)

over 100 breweries now operate.

A third are found in Catalonia,

with a burgeoning of brew pubs

and craft beer bars in its capital

Barcelona over the past few years,

many centred in the Eixample

area - now known as “Beerxample”

among drinkers. However,

“microcervecerías” are to be found

in all 17 Spanish regions.

In common with craft brewing

in another burgeoning south

European country – Italy – Spain’s

old association with simple thirstquenching

lagers and lack of an

indigenous brewing tradition has

allowed a contemporary beer scene

to blossom without pre-conditions

(other than a certain artistic flair

with label designs).

Originally imitating classic beer

styles of the world, Spanish brewers

have moved on to find inspiration

for their own recipes and exotic

ingredients (flower blossom in

an IPA for example). Something

else that Spain shares with Italy is

strong national and regional food

cultures, so it stands to reason that

breweries and their beers should

have their roots in, and affinity

toward, beer as cuisine.

Specialist wine importer

Manchester-based Morgenrot has a

great interest in all things Spanish.

Its links to some of the best small

wineries has led it to involvement

with counterparts in the beer sector,

from the Basque region through

Barcelona and Rioja, to a producer

in Jerez combining beer with Sherry.

Set up among the vineyards of

Rioja, Cervecera Artesana boasts

one of the most incredible brewery

vistas in the world, the famous

gorge Penas de Iregua. Since 2012

it has produced beers that easily

stand alongside the region’s famed

wines for quality, character and

uniqueness. Palax is their bottle

conditioned lager (also available

in key-keg) brewed with Hallertau

Tradition hops, German malt and

a Belgium yeast. Its other brew is

Ceriux: the “beer with a touch of

wine”. After a month’s conditioning

and before bottling, concentrated

grape must is added to give a

special nuance to the secondary

fermentation in-bottle. This imparts

aromas and flavours that are more

associated with wine. The white

(Viura) and red (Tempranillo) musts

add a subtlety that makes Ceriux

both delicious and different.

San Sebastian also has strong

wine links, but here the Mala

Gissona brewery draws inspiration

from the local sea farers. Basque

and Icelandic whalers have links

going back centuries; “For ju Mala

Gissona” translates as “For you,

bad man” but is Icelandic slang

given to rough types who prove to

be honest, determined and loyal.

Its beers are far from rough and

definitely are honest, intrepid and

adventurous. True to the fabulous

cuisine of the region their beers

are a fine match with seafood with

a range of Pale Ales and a Belgium

styled Wheat Beer.

Catalonia and Barcelona are the

centre of craft brewing in Spain,

with at least 25 breweries. The

whole vibrant craft beer revolution

in Spain can actually be traced

back to 1992 when Liverpudlian

ex-pat Steve Huxley opened the

ill-fated brew-pub, the Barcelona

Brewing Company. Though recently

big brands such as Brewdog and

Mikkeller have moved in, there is

plenty of interest on the micro level.

Cerveses La Pirata – “Incendiary,

artisan and natural” – is a

microbrewery based in Suria,

Barcelona. Starting a few years ago

as a group of home-brewing friends,

the beer steadily improved alongside

their reputation. Production had to

increase and ‘The Pirate’ came out

of hiding in 2012. La Pirata beers are

based around recipes with a strong

malt character base and a high abv

such as Deep Inside Porter and Black

Block Stout. There is also a glutenfree

American Pale Ale. They have

links with half a dozen international

craft breweries including Brew by

Numbers in London and Against the

Grain in the USA.8

Beercatalunya SL (BeerCat) has

been brewing since 2013. Set up with

help from Manchesters’s Cloudwater

head brewer James Campbell,

BeerCat is based in Vilafranca del

Penedès, the capital of the Penedès

wine and Cava region situated

about 40km from Barcelona. The

brewery is housed in a former

wine bodega and draws inspiration

from the surrounding countryside

and viticulture to develop a niche

range of beers. Their current range

includes the flagship Barcelona

Blonde, a 5% pale ale, a-flavoured

Kölsch made with the zest of local

bitter oranges, Flor d`Ordal which

includes the famous dry-cultivated

Ordal peaches and - first brewed

in collaboration with Magic Rock

- a farmhouse IPA flavoured with

lemon, cinnamon and juniper.

For more information, please

contact Morgenrot enquiries@

morgenrot.co.uk or follow on

Twitter and Facebook

@morgenrot_group

42 Ferment Magazine

Ferment Magazine 43


Ello

Charlie

44

Ferment Magazine

When Charles Wells set out to give its solid,

traditional brand a craft makeover, it went back to

basics, creating new beers for a new era


Charles Wells gave its

team of experienced

brewers free rein

to experiment with

new styles to which

Charlie could put

his name.

114

Deep in leafy Bedford, in the

heart of the English Home

Counties, Charles Wells is

a true bastion of British brewing

tradition. This family-owned CAMRA

favourite has long been associated

with great cask ales in what many

would term ‘proper pubs’, and on

paper seems about as far from the

US-inspired craft movement as it’s

possible to get. However, flying the

banner of a hip new brand, under

which marches a creatively liberated

band of brewers, Charles Wells is

moving with the times.

Rather than back away from its

heritage, Charles Wells has decided

to build a new craft brand around its

compelling founding story. Charles

Wells himself was a sailor in the

merchant navy, who travelled the

world, rising to the rank of captain

before he eventually met the love of

his life, Josephine, back in Blighty.

In order to marry her though,

Charles had to promise her father

that he would give up life on the

sea; he did, and in 1876 decided to

buy a brewery and chain of pubs.

He brought his adventures with him

though, and the brewery’s early

beers reflected the cultures, styles

and ingredients he’d encountered

along the way.

The ‘Charlie Wells’ brand picks up

on this distinctly craft-like sense of

adventure and beery exploration,

re-imagining Charles as the kind of

tattooed, bearded young gent you

might meet on a night out in Hoxton.

But this isn’t just window dressing;

Charles Wells gave its team of

experienced brewers free rein to

experiment with new styles to which

Charlie could put his name.

The brewery’s Paul Hutchinson

explains: “The styles of the beers

have all come from the brewers

themselves. A lot of them brew

at home anyway, so we have this

incredibly creative atmosphere

where they’ll all share the brews

they feel work well, refining them

together as a team.”

The result was two initial beers that

put a twist on fashionable craft styles:

a ‘triple-hopped’ IPA and a dry-hopped

lager. These will be followed by two

more surprise beers, being debuted at

Craft Beer Rising.

“We’ve tried to pick beers that

felt relevant to the Charlie Wells

story, so our IPA uses hops from

the UK, Australia and the USA.

London was Charlie’s home port,

while the bananas we use are

definitely something he would have

encountered along the way.”

Paul is clearly sensitive to the

possible accusation that Charles

Wells, a medium-sized and wellestablished

traditional brewer,

is simply trying to appeal to a

potentially lucrative new market.

But he is passionate about the

quality of the beers, and argues

there’s a lot more to craft than size.

“It’s not like we sit down and have

a board meeting to decide which beer

will make us the most money,” he

says. “There are plenty of breweries

doing that, but it’s just not a space we

want to compete in. We have some of

the best brewers in the business and

we let them focus on making great

beers. It’s our faith in that craft and

those beers that’s seen us successfully

through the past 140 years.

“Any brewer has to think about

what drinkers will want to drink

tomorrow. And we do have casks ales

that are still popular with younger

drinkers, but this helps expand our

portfolio so that people looking to try

something new can do so. It’s from

a brewery that has consistency and

quality, so you can trust that when

you open up a bottle or order a pint,

you’re going to get a great beer.

Whether it’s to your personal taste or

not is down to that drinker.”

While it considers itself a craft

brewer in the literal sense, Charles

Wells is conscious that it is operating

in a market with a lot of much

smaller players, and Paul says its

intention has never been to steal

share from them.

“We’re independent, but we are

a larger brewery, so we don’t ever

want to tread on the toes of the

genuinely excellent micro-breweries

creating small batch beers. We’re

beer lovers here, and we’re as

46 Ferment Magazine

Ferment Magazine 47


excited as anyone about the brilliant

stuff some of these smaller guys are

brewing. There’s never been a better

time to be a brewer.”

This sentiment is certainly given

credibility by Charles Wells’ many

collaborations with small local

breweries. While Paul wasn’t ready to

give details, the brewery is expected

this year to announce even more

ambitious projects of this nature.

With many in the industry talking

about a UK cask revival, I ask Paul

whether he hopes Charlie Wells will

provide a bridge, by which younger

drinkers might discover the subtle

joys of traditional cask ale.

They may do,” he says. “Looking

back on my own experience, from

18 to 21 I was a lager drinker, 22-25

I started to get a little bit more into

some of the American ales, then

it was English cask for quite some

time, then back to some of the more

craft lagers and craft ales. Tastes will

change, and people may well start to

look at our cask ale range.

“At the end of the day though it’s

up to the drinker. We think we’re

making great beer; if they agree with

us, great. Join us for a pint. If they

don’t then that’s fine and up to them;

you can’t please everyone, and you

probably shouldn’t try.”

Paul is keen to see the brewery

build on its momentum over

the next year, following up on

Charlie Wells’ successful US launch

with additional styles and more

European distribution.

The brewers are still coming

up with some fantastic ideas;

really more than we could every

actually brew commercially,” he

says. “What’s important is that we

continue to listen to the fans, see

what they like and try to give them

beers they’ll really enjoy.”

STAND NO

115

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48 Ferment Magazine

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Ferment Magazine 49

www.devilspeakbrewing.co.za


No hauf measures

Richard Croasdale visits Auchentoshan distillery, to find out more

about the single malt whisky that’s shaking up the beer world

For years, the so-called

‘lowland’ Scotch whiskies had

a rough ride. For a start, there

were only a handful of single malt

distilleries left in this geographical

region stretching from the English

border up into Fife. They also had a

reputation for being a little bland,

next to sweet, full bodied Speysides,

punchy Highlands and peaty Islays.

In recent years, however, an

increasingly sophisticated whiskydrinking

public has prompted a new

appreciation for its subtle charms.

Auchentoshan (from the Gaelic

meaning “the corner of the fields”)

is close to Glasgow city centre. It’s a

classic, traditional distillery; squat,

white-walled buildings and copperclad

cupolas that are as much a part

of the landscape as the highland

cows that graze in the distillery

grounds. But that’s where the

tradition ends.

It has long been known for the

light, smooth quality of its spirits.

Indeed, Auchentoshan’s unique

selling point is that it is triple

distilled, making it a true one-ofa-kind

among single malts. Triple

distillation isn’t just a marketing

wheeze; it produces a uniquely soft

spirit, with a light mouthfeel and

warm, nutty notes.

Like most distilleries, the majority

of Auchentoshan’s whisky is laid

down in American oak barrels, reused

from the US whiskey industry.

It also uses a smaller number

of European oak casks sourced

from sherry, port and fine wine

producers, which impart a rich,

spicy character.

Auchentoshan offers a range of

bottlings (‘expressions’, in whisky

parlance) representing various

lengths of maturation and different

wood types. Its core ‘American Oak’

is a great whisky; very drinkable,

smooth and delicate, but also

complex with fresh notes of grass,

citrus and nuts. In recent times, it’s

found favour with bartenders and

mixologists, who value a whisky that

gives a smooth character without

dominating other flavours.

Beyond this, the distillery’s Three

Wood is a firm favourite, packing

bold and complex layers of wood

character on that same super smooth

malt base. A visit to the distillery

gives you access to an even wider

selection, including cask-strength

limited editions.

The entire range has proven so

versatile that, for the past year

or so, Auchentoshan has started

repositioning itself for a more

adventurous crowd. Taking the lead

from its own ‘distilled different’ tag

line, the distillery has gone out with

a bold message that it’s okay to enjoy

single malt whisky with a mixer or as

part of a cocktail. As well as putting

it into the same space as brands

like Monkey Shoulder, Kraken and

Hendricks, this has opened the door

to exciting new collaborations with

the beer world.

The distillery’s new signature

serve, the ‘Auchentoshan and Ale’

was launched at last year’s Craft

Beer Rising festival, and has proven

a huge success with drinkers and

mixologists alike.

Auchentoshan’s Jane Ashley

explains: “The relationship between

whisky and beer runs deep; they

share a lot of the same base

ingredients, both are enjoying a

golden age, and the ‘hauf an’ hauf’ is

a classic Scottish pairing. We’ve also

seen a real growth in beer cocktails

and boilermakers, so we wanted

a fun, versatile recipe that people

could experiment with.”

The Auchentoshan and Ale

invites such experimentation. Jane

recommends pairing lighter beers,

such as pilsners or pale ales, with

the American Oak, as the light lemon

notes play well with the hops. For

fans of darker beers, Jane says a good

stout with a measure of Three Wood,

chocolate bitters and a cinnamon

stick hits the mark.

Working closely with local

breweries around the country,

Auchentoshan has taken this

concept on the road, to much

acclaim. Visiting the distillery, I

opt for an American Oak and IPA

from local brewery Drygate. From

the steamy heat of the still room,

the icy citrus mixed with the honey

syrup is a wonderfully refreshing

combination. I’ll certainly be making

a stop at Auchentoshan’s stand at

this year’s Craft Beer Rising to do

some experimentation of my own.

How to make an Auchentoshan and Ale

35ml Auchentoshan American Oak

25ml Lemon Juice

25ml Honey Syrup

90ml Pale Ale

Lemon Wedge Garnish

(Bitters optional)

Combine Auchentoshan American

Oak, Lemon Juice & Honey Syrup in

a shaker filled with ice.

Shake vigorously and strain into

vessel with ice. Top with a beer

of your choice and garnish with a

lemon wedge. Smile knowingly.

50 Ferment Magazine

Ferment Magazine 51


BRIEF & CONCEPT

DESIGN & ARTWORK


121

Goose Island

In many ways, Goose Island’s story reflects the wider

evolution of the craft beer movement. The Chicago,

Illinois-based craft giant started out as a single, humble

brewpub in 1988, but its history goes back even further, to

Goose founder John Hall’s formative trip around the great

brewing nations of Europe.

The experience was a revelation; he saw the breadth

and depth of Europe’s brewing traditions, and began to

question why America was so relatively poorly served. But

John didn’t just question, he set out to solve the problem.

Setting up shop in Chicago, he honed his craft and

was soon producing great beers. Crucially, he also

brought his customers along for the ride, inviting them

into the brewery and making them feel they were part

of something special. While this may seem an obvious

approach to today’s new craft brewers, in many ways John

laid the path on which they now walk.

In 1995, Goose Island moved into a new dedicated

brewery (though it also kept the pubs, of course) which it

has continued to expand ever since. It was also around this

time that the brewery began to experiment with ageing its

beer in bourbon whiskey barrels.

This innovation (very few US breweries were doing

anything even close to this at the time) spurred evergreater

experimentation, with wine barrel finishes,

different yeasts and the creation of beers with an

unprecedented range of characters. At a time when most

breweries’ repertoires consisted of variations on the same

few styles, using largely the same malts and yeasts, Goose

Island was a breath of fresh air.

Success built on success, and in 2011 Goose Island was

acquired by drinks giant AB InBev. For many in the craft

community, this was a moment of almost existential crisis;

having partly defined itself against the nebulous idea

of ‘big booze’, the craft movement faced the question of

whether a brewery could be both credible and part of a

mainstream drinks group.

The worst of those fears have not come to pass. AB InBev

has proven its respect for Goose Island’s brewing, while

Goose has remained true to the integrity and spirit of

experimentation which has made it such a success.

Today, Goose Island is one of the biggest names in

global craft, its core beers a regular fixture in dedicated

beer bars and even more mainstream pubs, bringing the

joys of well-made beer to a wider audience than ever. It

is also an ambassador for the entire movement, sharing

its knowledge through professional brewing and trade

organisations and engaging with the craft beer community.

David Tohtz,

brewer

Craft beer lovers

are a fickle bunch.

Why do your fans keep

coming back?

Every brewery gains its sense of identity

from its own core beers, and in the

“fickle” world of craft brewing today,

those new package goods can be great

to try once or twice.

But are they consistent every time?

The Goose core beers – 312, IPA and

Honkers – are beers that have proven

consistency and balance.

That balance started with the Clybourn

brewpub and has remained consistent at

the production facility on Fulton Street.

Do you still get much time to innovate,

or are you mostly focused on meeting

demand now?

We brewers at Goose Island are on a

rotating schedule, and while our focus

is on the production-scale beers (Sofie,

Matilda, Bourbon County Stout), we are

given the opportunity to tinker on our

2bbl pilot system.

Some of the other brewers, as well

as myself, still brew at home and we

bring those ideas to work as part of the

innovation process.

What would be your advice to smaller

UK brewers looking to replicate your

global success?

Grow organically. Goose’s original pub

worked to satisfy the home market,

dialling in their core recipes, before

expanding to something larger.

To what extent does that original

brewpub ethos still drive Goose Island?

The Clybourn pub is my first home of

beer, as it is to many former and current

employees. The celebration of the

current remodel of the Clybourn brewpub

brought many employees out of the

woodwork, as well as long time patrons.

Clybourn is one of those early spots in

my drinking career to go have a pint and

relax with good conversation.

The brewers there, former and

current, drive me to be a better brewer

by showcasing their talents when they

consistently release quality beers.

Some of the other

brewers, as well as

myself, still brew

at home

Joshua Smith,

brand

ambassador

Being a brand

ambassador seems impossibly

glamorous. Is it?

It has its moments for sure, a lot of

travelling, visiting some really amazing

places and meeting some great people.

I have seen more of Europe this past last

year than ever before. It’s easy doing

something when the subject matter is

something you love… beer!

The glamour can be short-lived though;

it’s normally followed by some sort of

graft getting ready for the next event!

What are the best and worst parts of

your job?

There are a lot of amazing parts to my

job, but if I had to pick it’s being able to

travel back to Chicago and spend time

with the guys there. I had never been

to the US before and always wanted to

travel there. Beer culture in the US is

inspiring and constantly evolving and I’ve

visited some great breweries.

I don’t think I have a bad part to my job,

getting up at 05:30 most mornings to

get some exercise isn’t always great! As

you can imagine, the job includes a fair

amount of beer and food, so keeping fit

is very important. Fitness is a huge part

of Goose Island culture. We sponsor and

compete in the Chicago marathon.

Is Goose Island ever a difficult sell?

There is always a job of education

where beer is concerned. Whether that

is educating one’s self, key partners, or

hosting beer dinners and events.

The craft beer scene in the UK

continues to grow and there are some

fantastic specialist pubs and bars

showcasing breweries from all over

the world. With these bars you find

more often than not that their level of

knowledge is great and they themselves

are great ambassadors for beer.

The main barrier that I encounter time

and time again in my role – both here

in Europe and back in the US – is to do

with the AB InBev connection, and the

perception that we sold out. People’s

main thought is once a brewery has been

bought out by a larger company, the

beer will suffer in quality. This couldn’t be

further from the truth.

We call the relationship between Goose

and AB InBev a partnership, because

that’s how it works in practice. Our

brewing team creates the recipes and

our marketing and sales team creates

the excitement and tone of voice. AB

InBev brings access to the world’s best

logistics system, bringing our great

beers to more people, and quality

programs which ensure our beer tastes

just as good wherever it’s sold.

56 Ferment Magazine

Ferment Magazine 57


アパート


圀 愀

䄀 挀 琀 椀 漀 渀

倀 甀 挀 欀 攀 爀 甀 瀀 昀 漀 爀 漀 甀 爀 戀 椀 最 琀 爀 漀 瀀 椀 挀 愀 氀 昀 爀 甀 椀 琀 アパート 眀 愀 礀 挀 漀 氀 氀 愀 戀 漀 爀 愀 琀 椀 漀 渀

搀 爀 礀 栀 漀 瀀 瀀 攀 搀 眀 椀 琀 栀 猀 栀 攀 搀 氀 漀 愀 搀 猀 漀 昀 䴀 漀 猀 愀 椀 挀 Ⰰ 䜀 愀 氀 愀 砀 礀 ⬀ 嘀 椀 挀 ᤠ 猀 猀 攀 挀 爀 攀 琀

一 䔀 圀 䐀 䤀 倀 䄀 䰀 䄀 唀 一 䌀 䠀 ℀

䘀 攀 愀 琀 甀 爀 椀 渀 最 戀 攀 攀 爀 猀 昀 爀 漀 洀 㨀

For most craft beer drinkers, the name Duvel the flagship: Duvel Moortgat.

probably at least sounds familiar. The original Established in 1871, Duvel Moortgat is an independent

Belgian Golden Strong Ale, Duvel was initially family-owned brewery driven by quality, craftsmanship,

named Victory Ale to commemorate the end of World and passion.

War I. It was only during a tasting when a local

From its origins as a small farm-based brewery in

shoemaker declared that this deceptively strong beer Belgium nearly 150 years ago, Duvel Moortgat has

was “nen echten Duvel” or “a true devil” that the name grown into a global family of brewers, encompassing

Duvel was born.

brands like Duvel, Chouffe, De Koninck, Vedett,

The beer then became so popular that the Moortgat Maredsous, and Liefmans in Europe, to Ommegang,

Family Brewery, brewer of Duvel, renamed itself after Boulevard, and Firestone Walker in the United States.

Duvel Moortgat

匀 吀 䄀 一 䐀

一 唀 䴀 䈀 䔀 刀 㐀 㔀

Vedett

Boulevard

Liefmans

Chouffe

Vedett is a beer with attitude.

Translating to ‘star’ from

Flemish, we aim to make YOU

the star of our beers. Every

back label features an image

that fans have uploaded to

Vedett.com. So submit yours

and go find yourself our full

range of Vedett beers - Extra

Blond, White, and IPA.

We’re pouring: Vedett Extra

White Wheat Beer (4.7%

abv, draught), Vedett Extra

Blond Premium Lager (5.0%

abv, bottle), & Vedett Extra

Ordinary IPA (5.5% abv,

bottle)

Founded in 1989, Boulevard

Brewing Company in Kansas

City, Missouri is a true

American craft beer pioneer.

Proud to brew “Kansas City’s

Hometown Beer”, Boulevard

produces fresh, flavourful,

great-tasting ales and lagers

using the finest traditional

ingredients and the best of

both old and new brewing

techniques.

We’re pouring: Single Wide

IPA (5.7% abv, draught) &

Tank 7 Farmhouse Ale (8.5%

abv, bottle)

Since 1679, Liefmans beers

have been brewed with

love and craftsmanship,

steeped in the rich tradition

of Belgian beer culture. Mrs.

Rosa Merckx, the first - and

for many years the only -

female master brewer in

Belgium, was at the helm for

over 40 years and helped to

perfect the unique flavour of

Liefmans beers.

We’re pouring: Liefmans

Fruitesse Mixed Fruit Beer

(3.8% abv, draught) &

Liefmans Kriek Brut (6.0%

abv, bottle)

Brasserie D’Achouffe is

nestled in the rolling green

hills in the heart of the

Belgian Ardennes mountains,

a location rumoured to be

the mystical home to the

Chouffe gnomes. Founded in

1982, the specialty beers of

Achouffe have gained acclaim

and passionate loyalty

worldwide. Funny outside,

serious inside.

We’re pouring: La Chouffe

Belgian Blond Ale (8.0% abv,

draught) & Chouffe Soleil

Wheat Beer (6.0% abv, bottle)

What’s new at CBR 2017?...

The Vedett Photobooth: A twist on the classic, our photobooth prints your picture on a

personalised beer mat! Plus, we’ve got a little something in there for you to sip on while

you pop in for your photoshoot…

• Boulevard Single Wide IPA on draught: Bottles are nice, but there’s nothing quite like a

pint to bring this beer’s fresh flavours and intense floral & citrusy hop aromas to life.

Stop by for a sip!

• Even more swag: Love our beers? Show it! Stop by our booth for your chance to grab

giveaways of glassware, t-shirts, and totes. We may even have a few Chouffe red hats up

for grabs!

19


RENEGADE

In partnership with

146

It may be the new kid on the block

– having launched a shade over a

year ago – but Renegade Brewery

has pedigree. As the craft arm of the

21 year-old West Berkshire

Brewery, Renegade has an enviable

track record.

West Berkshire is a CAMRA

favourite, best known for its core

range of real ales, which includes

the likes of award-winning Good Old

Boy. But when Simon Lewis joined

the business as CEO in mid-2015,

he saw an opportunity to set up a

complementary craft ‘skunkworks’

brewery as part of a wider

expansion plan.

“When I joined, I sat down with

our brewers Will, Griff and Steve,”

he recalls. “They’re all in their early

30s and had really cut their teeth

on the cask ales we’ve brewed over

that time. I asked them, if they had

complete freedom, what would

they want to brew, so we talked

about using different hop varieties,

brewing different kinds of beer,

different keg formats… everything

was on the table.”

The result was Renegade, a brand

under which the brewers could

“stretch their legs” while giving West

Berkshire a foot in the increasingly

important craft beer market.

“We’ve got solid skills, history and

capability. That’s our difference and

also the reason we’ve focused so

much on drinkability,” says Simon.

Renegade started off devising

three styles which became their core

range: a west coast pale ale, a craft

lager, and – just recently entering

full commercial production – an

India session ale.

None of these styles, of course,

are particularly off-piste for a craft

brewery, so I ask Simon whether he

felt any pressure to live up to that

‘Renegade’ moniker.

“Nobody should ever stand still,

and certainly in this beer culture

that we’re part of… It’s moving with

the times, bringing people what

they want, while also bringing them

new experiences. So yes, we feel like

we need to be constantly moving

forward. But we want people to

also recognise the quality and

consistency that we have in that core

stable of products,” says Simon.

It’s natural that Renegade should

already have one eye on its next

steps. Its very creation was part of a

major expansion of West Berkshire

Brewery into new facilities, with

new and more flexible brew

equipment. The new £4.8million

facility is scheduled to come online

by late spring 2017, and will be a

game-changer for the brewers.

The new kit is a state-of-the-art,

60 hectolitre, three vessel setup,”

continues Simon. “As well as

drastically increasing our capacity, it

will also allow us to try other styles.

It even has its own packaging line,

enabling us to can, keg and bottle

for other breweries. It’s really a

really huge investment in capacity

flexibility and quality, so we’re

hugely excited about it.”

Renegade also has a 100-litre nano

kit for experimentation.

“For example we brewed a saison

with ginger, lemon and honey. We’ve

done a pineapple pale ale, a DIPA –

all on this 100-litre kit – and released

them through our shop under the

renegade pilot range. They’ve been

very popular, and I wouldn’t be

surprised if some of them make it

into our core range.”

Renegade has an exciting and

exclusive range of beers at Craft

Beer Rising, including pineapple

pale, smoked porter and a DIPA.

60

Ferment Magazine

Photographs: Sasha Hitchcock

Ferment Magazine 61


127

Going against the grain

The year of 1978 was a time

of tremendous upheaval

in the UK, socially,

politically and culturally. General

strikes, mass poverty and the

birth of punk were all feeding

into a vibrant counter-culture.

The nation’s brewing industry

was also at arguably its lowest

point, following 80 straight

years of decline, with breweries

disappearing all over the country.

The idea of opening a new brewery

in this environment seems a little odd;

to do so with the intention of brewing

just one very traditional English

style certainly goes against the grain.

Yet that’s precisely what Butcombe

did. Some 39 years later though, this

curiously radical approach seems to

have paid dividends and, with a new

brand identity and the launch of a

new line of keg products, Butcombe

looks as relevant today as ever.

“2017 is a huge time for

Butcombe,” explains Emmy Webster,

marketing manager. “We’re

conducting a major rebrand, we’re

expanding the brewery to give us

some much-needed extra capacity

and are launching some really

exciting new styles on keg.”

Butcombe’s approach has certainly

stood the test of time, but what is it

that keeps drinkers coming back,

and does it have a place in the

modern world of craft beer?

“We talk here about what we call

a beer machismo; a lot of the beers

that we’re finding in the market

at the moment, particularly the

craft market, lay down a challenge

for the drinker, with super-bitter

hops and high alcohol content.

And, actually, by the time you get

halfway through your glass you’re

thinking ‘oh God what can I drink

next?’ That’s not what we’re about.

We want you get to the end of your

pint and think ‘I’ll have another of

those’. That quality of moreishness

is something we’ve worked very

hard to achieve and maintain.

“I think what our drinkers enjoy

is that there are no unpleasant

surprises with Butcombe – you’re

going to get consistency every

time. There’s no airs and graces, no

bullshit; our motto is ‘truth in every

taste’. We’ve been brewing these

beers for almost 40 years, so we’ve

got it nailed.”

That said, Butcombe is clearly

keen to woo the new enthusiastic

craft audience, as can be seen in its

new range of beers. In addition to

its Original, Rare Breed and Gold

cask ales, it has recently also started

kegging Original, as well introducing

three new beers on keg: Bohemia, a

Czech pilsner, Goram, an ‘Avon’ pale

ale and Blonde.

“It was great to see the brewers

at work coming up with the new

recipes,” says Emmy. “Many of them

have been working here for years

and are really passionate about the

core range. And then you’ve got guys

like our head brewer, Colin Page,

who’s just back from Australia, New

Zealand and Vietnam with some

really interesting ideas. So, you can

imagine, when we went to this great

team and said ‘what do you want to

brew?’ it was a real opportunity

for them.

“So, for example, we’re doing a

sessionable black IPA. You’d think

with a black IPA you’re going to get

that harsh, astringent flavour, but

actually it’s more subtle caramels.

This is completely in keeping with

our ethos as a brewery; we don’t

want to challenge drinkers, but

we’re always happy to surprise

them, and our commitment to

drinkability always means it’s a

good surprise!”

Taking on an audience like

Craft Beer Rising, which is on the

forefront of the modern craft scene,

Butcombe is quietly confident that

– just as it did in 1978 – it can stand

out from the noise without raising

its voice.

“We’re doing things differently,

but that doesn’t mean making beers

that are an endurance challenge,”

concludes Emmy. “Come along,

have a chat with brewers, see

their passion for beer, which is so

infectious. And, most importantly,

have a proper pint with us. I think

you’ll be surprised.”

62 Ferment Magazine

Ferment Magazine 63


83

Show this

article at Fyne

Ales’ CBR bar for

50p off! (one per

customer)

It might be hard to believe

that Scottish brewers Fyne

Ales celebrated their fifteenth

anniversary at the end of 2016. The

Argyll-based brewery was founded

before the advent of the craft beer

movement in the UK by Jonny and

Tuggy Delap. Their vision was to

produce high quality real ales,

using the finest ingredients and

water sourced from a natural spring

located on the grounds of their

farm. The idea was a success; Fyne

Ales has won, and continues to win,

international awards in recognition

of the quality their beers.

In recent years Fyne Ales has

undergone significant expansion,

introducing a range of innovative

craft beers including American-style

IPAs, kettle sours and imperial stouts

Feelin’ Fyne

1

Five of the best from Fyne Ales

Jarl

Pale Ale, 3.8%

Multiple-time Champion Beer of Scotland, Jarl is Fyne Ales’ flagship pale ale and one

of the first UK beers to showcase Citra. Light and refreshing, Jarl is the perfect session

beer for sunny days.

to complement its real ale line-up. In

2014, it embarked on an ambitious

project to significantly upscale its

facilities and output, creating a new

bespoke brewery adjacent to the

existing farmhouse buildings and in

2017, the brewery is looking to push

innovation even further.

Plans are in motion to significantly

expand on the success of the Fyne

Ales Farmhouse Project using

the original brewery in which

the first Fyne Ales beers were

created. The aim? To honour the

breweries history and showcase

unconventional beer styles, brewing

methods and ingredients.

“Provenance has always been

a huge part of what we do at Fyne

Ales, and the plan for the new beers

is to develop a range that showcases

that to the fullest extent. Think

spontaneously fermented farmhouse

ales, the extension of our barrelaging

program using casks sourced

from local whisky producers,

bringing international breweries

to the glen for collaborations and

more exciting beers that celebrate

our heritage and unique locality”

explained Fyne Ales Managing

Director, Jamie Delap.

Though Fyne Ales has expanded

on its founder’s original vision,

much of what makes the brewery

special remains; it is still based on

the same farmland, it still draws

water from the natural spring, it still

ensures that quality is integral to

every beer produced.

Here’s to the next exciting fifteen

years from Fyne Ales!

2

3

4

5

Ragnarök

IPA, 7.4%

Taking Jarl to the next level, Ragnarök is a single-hop Citra IPA with big flavours of

melon, orange and a dry, hoppy finish. Weighing in at 7.4%, Ragnarök is a classic

American-style IPA.

Ghost Stout

Stout, 4.7%

Ghost is Fyne Ales’ stout exclusively available on nitro keg. Inspired by modern American

stouts, Ghost has a silky-smooth mouth feel to complement its rich, dark chocolate and

roasted malt flavours.

Guava Sour

Tropical Berliner Weisse, 5%

A brand new beer pouring at Craft Beer Rising, Guava Sour is a kettle-soured wheat

beer with over 20kg of tropical guava fruit added to the brew. A refreshing palettecleanser

with a lightly sour kick.

The Witch

Saison, 5.8%

The second beer in the Fyne Ales Farmhouse Project, The Witch is a semi-sweet, gruit

farmhouse ale brewed with yarrow, spruce tips and pineapple weed foraged from the

glen around the brewery.

64 Ferment Magazine

Ferment Magazine 65


66

Ferment Magazine

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* and everything in between

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Find us on stands

77-87 &

94-98

With around 150 breweries

in operation or in

planning throughout

Scotland – a number which has

almost doubled in recent years – The

Brewers’ Association of Scotland

(TBAS) is making a show of force at

Craft Beer Rising 2017, representing

16 amazing breweries and their

world-beating beers.

The craft brewing industry in

Scotland has been a huge success

story in recent years, providing

opportunities for companies to

produce a wide range of distinctive

and innovative products that are

exported all over the world. We’ve

seen innovations using whisky casks

to age beers or flavouring them with

heather, giving a unique edge to

Scotland’s offering.

In the TBAS area (stands 77-87

and 94-98) we have a diverse range

of beers for you to try, including

gluten-free craft beer from Bellfield

Brewery – the UK’s first dedicated

gluten-free brewery – and a brand

new 9% American Brown Ale called

The Scorpion & The Frog from

Williams Bros. Brewing Co.

Join us, and try two new

collaboration beers available onstand

from Fallen Brewing: Steamer

– a 4.6% coffee oatmeal pale, made

with Avenue Coffee and Thirst Craft

– and Bee Line – a 6.8% pear, honey

and guava Saison made with Dead

End Brew Machine.

If these beers are too strong for

you, we also have a 3.5% session

American pale ale, Sunshine on

Keith, from Spey Valley Brewery.

Windswept Brewing Co has a

special surprise keg from the Glen

Moray Cask aged range available,

while Isle of Skye Brewing Company

has brought Yer Ben, a collaboration

made with Michelin starred chef

Tom Kitchin and named after

Tom’s grandfather.

Or if you’re looking for a pit stop

from the beer endurance test, try

Innis & None, 0.0% ABV pale ale

containing vitamin C and ginseng,

which is sure to boost the immune

system and improve energy levels.

Whatever your tastes, Scotland’s

brewers have it covered, so come

and share a pint with us on

stands 77-87 and 94-98.

68 Ferment Magazine

Ferment Magazine 69


The Powderkeg plot

Ferment caught up with Powderkeg Brewery’s

John Magill, to learn more about his beery rebellion

Q: Welcome to Craft Beer Rising.

You’re here for the first time?

A: Yep. Straight Outta Devon, just a

motley crew of country bumpkins up

here on a day trip to the big city.

Q: I don’t believe you. We know

you just won Best Lager at The

Beer Awards. That’s a big award.

A: Yeah, we’ve only been open about

18 months and Boom! I don’t like

calling it the best lager in the world,

but I quite like them saying it.

Q: So what was the inspiration

behind Cut Loose pilsner?

A: Brew what you love. From the

age of 18 to 25 I drank nothing but

lager – literally. My tastes broadened

over time, but I’ll still always happily

drink a Budvar or Urquell. The thing

is, you can’t really beat the Czechs

at brewing pils, so Cut Loose was

about creating something that is

still clearly recognisable as a classic

pilsner, but with a twist. A new take

on something that’s already great,

like a really good cover song.

Q: What makes you different to

all the other small UK breweries

producing hop-centric beers at

the moment?

A: In my own mind we’re not

especially hop-centric. We don’t

brew a double IPA or anything

like that. I know that the US style

is the poster boy of ‘craft beer’,

but it’s already been done to death

and I’ve had my time with that

‘wall of flavour’ approach. I prefer

elegance, balance and, dare I say it,

sophistication. Generally our aim is

to brew world beer styles with some

kind of twist, which may mean using

a new world hop, but it may not.

Q: “Powderkeg” - It sounds like

you’re plotting a rebellion…what

are you rebelling against?

A: Brewing-wise we’re rebelling

against all the depressingly average

beer that Devon’s still overflowing

with. But, for me, there’s another

dimension to it. Through Powderkeg,

I’m making my own stand against all

sorts of things: modern drudgery, the

work ethic, the killjoys, the ebbing

away of community...”Powderkeg”

has always been about my personal

revolution as much as the beer.

Q: And here’s me thinking

breweries are about making beer.

A: Well I probably put too much

pressure on it to be the cure-all for

my ills and those of modern society

in general. But beer has genius,

power and magic in it. Well, ours

does anyway.

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Ferment Magazine 71


Views from

the Bar

Words: Melissa Cole

Illustrations: Eva Dolgyra & The Man Trout

In her regular opinion column for Ferment, Melissa Cole

calls out the bigotry that is still rife in our beer culture

Last night, I cried down the

phone to my dad. I am 41 years

old and last night I cried down

the phone to my dad. I am literally

cringing as I type this, but it’s true

and I think that at 41 years old the

state of the world shouldn’t be such

that I am crying down the phone to

my dad, but it is… (and consistently

typing it like it’ll make it better isn’t

working either).

So, I am not going to talk politics

this column… ok, yes I am, but it’s

the politics of gender not the rise of

fascism across the globe, and will

only contain one mention of the

pussy grabbing, hamster-headed,

Cheeto-faced ass clown over the pond

(has no one ever mentioned to him

that an orange tide line around one’s

chin is the preserve of 13 year-old

girls who use Pan Stik?).

The politics of gender is a big topic

in beer, and in the past few weeks it’s

been brought into the spotlight again

by Mark Johnson, in two blogs about

the sexual harassment he’s noticed in

the beer industry now he’s dating a

woman who works in a pub.

Both posts are brilliant. Unfettered,

angry, calling out a brewery for

its behaviour by name – they are

well worth a read and I could not

be happier that myself and other

writers who address this topic now

have another voice in the crowd.

But – and here’s the big but of

it all – no one has mentioned that

Mark only noticed and wrote about

this issue once it affected him via

someone he clearly cares for.

Now, before you jump down my

throat, I want to say again that I am

thrilled, delighted and over the moon

that Mark wrote those posts; this is

not a criticism of him in any way.

I’m also pleased that, when I asked

for a statement Timothy Taylor’s, the

brewery he called out, they made it

clear they have robustly addressed

the issues he raised.

But I’m a hypocrite, because I’ve

realised I am the same as Mark,

because I don’t spend enough time

calling out gender and race issues

that don’t affect me, and I’m going

to change that. Sure, there aren’t

a lot of people left in the industry

stupid enough to be sexist, racist

or homophobic to my face, but that

doesn’t mean others aren’t facing

that sort of injustice.

I read with absolute horror

a thread from someone

who used to work at very

well-known northern

pub, who goes through

a millisecond checklist

of whether or not they

should say to certain

people in the industry

“my boyfriend”, because

they are gay. It is 2017 and

still people feel forced to selfcensor

their sexuality because

they are concerned at the possible

response.

I’m going to call out behaviour like

Brewdog’s transphobic fundraising

videos and Crate’s god-awful

transphobic and racist black IPA can

artwork. The latter has how been

withdrawn, but whoever thought the

slogan ‘once you go black you never

go back’ was appropriate needs

sacking. I also won’t put up with – as

I came across and challenged at

GBBF this year – someone

saying ‘a gay glass’ when

handing over a third

pint (I was also told

it was a lady’s glass

and that didn’t get

let past either).

This kind

of ridiculous,

thoughtless,

intolerant and just

unkind approach

simply has no place

in what should be

an inclusive, social and

delightful environment.

We all need to take responsibility

for the tone of discourse in this

broad and eclectic beer culture

of ours. Have the courage to

gently pull people up on careless

use of unpleasant tropes, casual

sexist remarks and schoolyard

homophobic comments – take a

moment to explain why it’s not okay.

Lobby breweries politely when

they slip and make sure they don’t

do it again (although I’m almost not

sure in the case of Marston’s what’s

worse: the old sexist branding or

the new horrors they’ve unleashed

on the public) and ask your local

pubs to not buy, or at least not use,

branding that uses any form of

denigrating image based on gender,

race or sexual orientation.

I’m asking you to help me with

this because it matters, because it’s

important and, while we might not

be able to control what’s going on

in the wider world, we can make a

difference in our own worlds and to

help make a difference for others.

Have the courage to

gently pull people

up on careless

use of unpleasant

tropes, casual sexist

remarks, schoolyard

homophobic

comments

72

Ferment Magazine

Ferment Magazine 73


118

Blood, sweat

& beers

Come and

meet us at

stand 36

After having the epiphany

that they couldn’t play their

game professionally forever,

rugby heroes Alistair Hargreaves

and Chris Wyles created Wolfpack

Lager with “passion, dedication,

and a mild smattering of panic!”

The forward-thinking pro-athletes

turned entrepreneurs launched

their business back in 2014 as they

planned ahead for their retirement.

“Alistair and I spent a lot time

discussing life after rugby and

realised that we both shared the

same values and interests,” said

Wyles. “After bouncing business

ideas around for ages, we realised

that the solution was sitting right in

front of our faces. We both love beer.

Fancy that! I wanted to be my own

boss and I wanted to learn by doing.

We just felt that starting a business

was a great way to learn.”

Fast forward two years and

business is booming - the boys

are busy building their own

microbrewery in Queen’s Park

which will take Wolfpack Lager to

the next level and beyond.

Wolfpack lager is sold in a growing

number of pubs across London

- around 50 so far - and on the eyecatching

double-decker ‘Wolfpack

Bus’ - which has 15 taps serving their

‘viciously good’ tipple - on match

days at Allianz Park, the home of

Saracens Rugby. They also have a

customised Land Rover Defender,

with six taps, which rocks up in style

to events and festivals.

Hargreaves said: “We consulted a

lot of people in the industry. People

who really know what they are

talking about - experts with Masters

Degrees and decades of experience

in brewing. It was really important

to us to create something that was

bold and packed with flavour but

still very drinkable. It needed to tell

a story, but it wasn’t about creating

the most unusual, niche craft beer

out there. There are enough of

those. This was about embracing the

beauty of lager and bringing home

the point that a brilliantly made

lager can far exceed its reputation as

bland beer for the masses.”

Wyles added: “We aren’t trying to

be something we’re not. We’re rugby

players who love beer and we love

being around people who drink it!”

The pair are looking to turbo

charge their expansion plans and

get their brand into even more pubs

across London and then UK-wide, as

well as running their own successful

brewery. More importantly to them,

they want to see like-minded people

getting joy from a brand and business

they’ve worked hard to create.

“We wanted to work to create

a beer brand that would really

resonate with people.” Said

Hargreaves, “And we’re really

proud of it, you know? We love our

Wolfpack.”

74 Ferment Magazine

Ferment Magazine 75


The good

The bad &

The beery

With so many international beer brands now taking

an interest in the UK’s burgeoning craft scene,

Matt Curtis takes asks how the movement is

coming to terms with global success

Goose Island has been

exporting its beer to the UK

since 2002, long before the

largest beer company in the world,

AB-InBev, purchased the Chicago

based brewery in 2011. The longterm

presence of its beer in the UK,

along with others from the likes

of Sierra Nevada and Brooklyn

Brewery, might have even helped

shape the craft beer landscape as

we know it. The intensely bitter and

highly aromatic beers they were

exporting would go on to inspire

breweries such as Brewdog, The

Kernel and many others.

There are now over 5000 breweries

operating in the United States, more

than twice as many as there are here

in the UK. Many of these brewers

have expanded to become regional,

national and international brands.

With this growth comes the need

for increased resources, which are

required to meet growing demand.

Some brewers, such as California’s

Sierra Nevada have expanded to

open a second brewing facility on

the other side of the country.

Some of the capacity at these new

sites is earmarked for export as the

original facility focuses on meeting

local demand. Others, such as Stone

76 Ferment Magazine

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Debate: Internationalisation

Debate: Internationalisation

Brewing, also of California, has

gone as far as opening a $25 million

facility in Berlin, Germany.

But why would craft breweries

invest millions into other markets

such as Germany and the UK when

their own market is still showing

growth? Well for starters this growth

is slowing. In terms of the volume

of beer being produced it fell from

12.8% in 2015 to 8% in 2016 – a pretty

significant drop. Despite the market

still inflating, it’s getting increasingly

more competitive. In addition to this,

some well established brands such as

Sam Adams Boston Lager and Sierra

Nevada Pale Ale are slowly but surely

beginning to stagnate as drinkers

begin to seek something new.

The UK is the fourth largest

export market for US craft beer

behind Canada, Sweden and Ireland

respectively. However it’s also the

fastest growing, with craft beer

exports from the US reportedly

having doubled over the past 12

months. According to SIBA, craft

beer in the UK currently accounts

for just less than 5% of the market.

That’s significantly smaller than the

13% share seen by craft brewers

in the US. With the UK craft beer

market still in its infancy, but growing

and maturing rapidly, it’s a vast

orchard of low hanging fruit for

America’s big craft breweries. One that

they intend to take advantage of while

the getting is good.

Ken Grossman established Sierra

Nevada Brewery in Chico, California

in 1978. In 2016 it’s a multi billiondollar

business with a second brewery

in Asheville, North Carolina that’s

now headed up by Grossman’s son

Brian. Ken’s brother Steve handles

export development and works as an

international brand ambassador, all of

which marks Sierra Nevada as a truly

generational family business.

I caught up with Steve on one of his

frequent visits to the UK earlier this

year. My first question was about his

perception of beer culture over here

compared to that in the US and how

its changed since he began his regular

trips over the Atlantic.

There’s been an incredible shift

in the culture and an incredible shift

in the number of breweries here,”

Grossman says. “In London alone

when we started selling beer here in

2005 there was, like, 10 breweries.

Now it’s climbing toward 100.”

Sierra Nevada was one of the largest

catalysts in the formation of this

market – and now they want a bigger

slice of it. However exports still pale in

comparison to its domestic business.

The majority of our business will

always be domestic, and currently our

export sales comprise only about 2%

of our overall total. That being said,

with social media being so powerful

in the beer world, the consumer is

aware of what is available in other

markets and would like to have

access to products they read about”

It’s not just social media that’s

driving awareness though, with

some breweries producing lavish

events to pique the interest of beer

lovers. The UK has become a key

market for Goose Island and despite

exporting its product here for over

a decade, it’s significantly upped its

presence over the last 12 months.

It began earlier this year with a

flock of small events as part of what

they called “migration week” which

accompanied the Craft Beer Rising

festival running at the same time.

Later on in the year they put on a

lavish “Block Party” which mirrored

the event they’ve ran in Chicago for

several years now. The Block Party

featured live bands, street food

and some rare imports, including

some of its aged sour beers and the

highly sought after Bourbon County

stout on draught. It also had lots

of live music including a headline

slot from Manchester rock band

Everything Everything.

Soon after that Goose Island was

at it again, this time launching just

100 bottles of the 2016 release of

Bourbon County at London indie

beer retailer Clapton Craft. The

bottles were priced at £19 each

78 Ferment Magazine

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Debate: Internationalisation

To have this travel

opportunity and meet

people that are based

in an entirely different

country, in a city as

large and uniquely

culturally different

as Chicago, it’s just

fucking awesome

and the allocation sold out in just

over two hours. Goose flew over

“innovation brewer” Tim Faith for

the launch and I caught up with

him for a chat about what a London

launch means for a Chicago brewer.

“I feel like our roots are ultimately

based here,” Faith says. “[Goose

Island founder] John Hall created

our beers to mirror the image

of English beer, so to have this

travel opportunity and really meet

people that are based in an entirely

different country in a city as large

and uniquely culturally different as

Chicago, it’s just fucking awesome.”

It’s more than just awesome

though; it’s a market shift. If you’re

a fan of Goose Island’s beers then

it’s one you’ll more than likely be

very pleased with. Its beers now line

the shelves in supermarkets such as

Tesco and Waitrose. Its distinctive

Goose Head tap handles now sit

resplendently atop thousands of

taps in pubs and bars across the UK.

They’ve even gone as far as opening

their own bar in South London this

December and it’s reportedly the

first of many.

All of this is great for the beer

drinker, but what does it mean

for the independent brewers and

retailers that have to compete?

Jonny Garrett, who is the marketing

manager for beer distributor Cave

Direct isn’t sure it’s all sweetness

and light for UK independents.

“At the moment you’re more likely

to see a bottle of Sierra Nevada or

Brooklyn in a pub fridge than a

modern British craft brewer but

that’s only because they have had a

head start,” Garrett says. “At the size

they are and with the distribution

deals they are putting in place,

they are able to compete with other

major breweries that smaller UK

breweries can’t.”

However, Garrett doesn’t think

this will be to the detriment of

independent British brewers.

“I think there is space for both

to exist happily if the US breweries

are working with UK importers and

distributors who have the brands

integrity at heart,” he says. “That

will put them, marketing clout aside,

on a level playing field with smaller

UK breweries.”

Some US breweries are taking

their overseas operations

beyond exports however. The

aforementioned Stone brewery,

which already has two US facilities

in San Diego, California and

Richmond, Virginia, opened a

100,000-hectolitre (that’s 17.6 million

pints) capacity brewery in Berlin this

year. They even had the audacity

to call the site a brewpub, which

is pretty humble, despite it being

larger than most of the breweries in

the UK.

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Debate: Internationalisation

Debate: Internationalisation

Having a facility in Berlin allows

Stone to supply fresh cans, bottles

and kegs of its hop-forward beers

all across Europe without having

the tackle the time it takes to get

beer across the Atlantic. It also puts

them in the European Union, which

conveniently gives them access to

the EU market and avoiding costly

import duty at the same time. This

means that they can compete, in

some cases aggressively, on price

– and this is the real danger to the

small independent brewer.

“That could really rock the boat

and force some great craft beer of

the bar, wherever in the world it’s

from,” Garrett says.

Brooklyn Brewery, who recently

sold a 24.5% stake in the business

to Japan’s second largest brewer,

Kirin is also investing heavily in

the UK market. Like Goose they

are running high-profile events,

such as its “Beer Mansion” in East

London this summer. Like Stone,

it’s also brewing beer in Europe, in

Brooklyn’s case that’s a partnership

with Carlsberg at Sweden’s New

Carnegie Brewery – although this

brewery doesn’t have the capacity to

reach outside of Scandinavia yet.

I spoke to Brooklyn’s UK Brand

Ambassador, Rachael Weseloh,

about how important the

British beer market is to such a

quintessentially American brand.

“Our export market program

as a whole is very important to

us. Brooklyn Brewery has been

exporting since the early days and

as the US beer market gets more

competitive, we’ve grown our

exports,” Weseloh says. “We are

currently the largest craft beer

exporter in the US and in the not too

far future, our export market will be

equal to our domestic market.”

This is a significant difference

between the 2% export volumes

to the UK that’s being reported by

Sierra Nevada. Crucially, Brooklyn’s

figures demonstrate just how

ripe the UK market is for exports

and why other breweries such as

Sierra Nevada and Goose Island

are investing so heavily in their

own export activities. Perhaps the

most pertinent part of Brooklyn’s

operation, is how they’ve integrated

naturally into the market, as

opposed to aggressively competing

through heavy discounts.

“People always ask me who I

would consider to be our biggest

competition and my answer is, ‘no

one,’” Weseloh says. “The small beer

industry is a friendly, inclusive,

and collaborative industry I really

don’t think there is any industry like

it in the world. If we turn against

each other, we’re left to fend for

ourselves.”

Sierra Nevada’s Steve Grossman

opinion echoes that of Weseloh.

However despite not seeing big US

craft breweries as a threat to UK

independents, he does worry about

those who are owned by multinational

brewing conglomerates.

“I have a feeling that the

breweries that are now owned by

the mega-breweries might cause a

few problems, because they now

control a lot of shelf space. Now

that they have more inroads to that

arena I think they’ll be able to have

more input as to what’s on those

shelves,” he says.

Another example of a US craft

brewer looking to make the most of a

vibrant UK beer market is Founders

Brewing of Grand Rapids, Michigan.

Founders have seen considerable

success here in the UK, with beers

such as its All Day session IPA and

Breakfast Stout proving popular

with British drinkers. Some extent

of this success is due them having a

permanent member of staff on the

ground here in UK. Tim Traynor

works for Founders as its UK market

manager and is based in London.

He spoke to me about some of the

challenges that arise when working

in a market so far from home.

The most obvious export

challenge is geographic distance,”

Traynor says. “Since Michigan is

3,690 miles away from the UK it’s

vital that we ensure our export

beer’s freshness or all of the

creativity and love put into crafting

these products would be for naught.”

Founders have invested

considerably in protecting its beer

from its two main threats: oxygen

and warm temperatures. Their aim

is to get beer from Michigan to the

UK promptly, so that drinkers over

here can experience this beer in the

same way as they would in Grand

Rapids. That’s no easy task, requiring

a hefty level of investment, but with

so many US brewers looking to enter

the UK market, there doubt these

efforts are worth it.

However, there’s evidence that

not all US brewers – and indeed

importers from other countries

– are going to the same lengths

as Founders when it comes to

freshness. Jen Ferguson of South

London beer retailer Hop Burns

& Black told me about some of the

struggles her business has with

imported beer.

“We’ve seen our US section almost

halve in size since we opened nearly

two years ago,” she says. “We got

sick of having to send old stock back

to suppliers, so we’re now extremely

selective on who we work with and

which breweries we stock.”

This demonstrates there’s no room

for breweries to cut corners if they

wish to reap the benefit of a healthy

UK beer market. Fresh is, as always,

best. However, Ferguson went on to

tell me that some of the reasoning

behind this is the consumers

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Debate: Internationalisation

Debate: Internationalisation

increasing awareness of new UK

breweries – and an increasing desire

to seek out local brands.

So how does a large, foreign

brand like Founders, work with an

emerging craft beer market like we

have in the UK, as opposed to against

it? Surely the last thing anyone

wants to do is ruffle any feathers.

“Since moving to the UK I’ve gotten

to know many local brewers who site

Founders as an influence,” Traynor

says. “Our brewmaster came over last

spring to brew with the Beavertown

folks and the secret-sharing and

collaboration that ensued was great

fun for all involved.”

“At the same time I feel like a little

friendly competition is healthy for

the industry - it makes everyone step

up their game.”

Traynor makes a sound point,

there’s nothing like some healthy

competition to keep businesses on

their toes. This is how we ensure

that quality standards in UK beer

continue to rise to a higher level.

But how do we ensure that this

competition remains healthy and

for the benefit of the industry,

instead of allowing it to bubble over

into controversy?

As breweries expand they will

inevitably step on each other’s toes.

It’s tough to forget the bitter spat

between London’s Camden Town

Brewery and Norwich’s Redwell

over the use of the word “Hells” for

example. The resulting dispute was

eventually settled, with Redwell

rebranding its beer as Camden Town

eventually regained control of the

name its flagship beer bears. Despite

this, to this day there’s no love lost

between these two businesses.

Although major compared to many

other conflicts in the beer world,

primarily because mainstream

media including the BBC gave it

coverage, it does demonstrate an

acute need for professionalism

within the industry.

As a market expands in the way

craft beer has done in the UK over

the past decade, conflicts like this

are inevitable. Some are already

saying, that with a reported 1700

plus breweries in the UK that

we’re reaching a saturation point.

Despite this, France, a country

with a with a similar population to

the UK manages to sustain 27,000

wineries – and that’s without

counting its own rising number of

breweries! Personally I feel that

we’re still a long way from seeing

an oversaturated beer market in

the UK.

But what does happen if the UK

craft beer market does become oversaturated?

While the profits and

volumes of mass-produced lagers

are gradually on the wane, craft beer

seems to be unstoppable right now,

with year-on-year growth in sales

of up to 60% in some metropolitan

areas. Looking at what the US is

doing by exploring overseas markets

gives us our answer. Many of the

UK’s craft breweries are already

taking advantage of overseas

markets such as Sweden, Germany,

even Singapore and Japan.

Some are going even further than

that. Brewdog (who else) is close

to completing the construction of

a 100,000 square foot brewery and

taproom in the US. The facility will

allow the Scottish brewery to bring

fresh beer direct to Americans

without the need for shipping it over

the Atlantic.

The only real difference is that

when they established themselves

here in the UK in 2007 there were

very few others producing beers

like they were. In the US, Brewdog

will be competing against a market

that had a two-decade head start on

them. Here’s hoping the competition

that it inevitably faces will be of the

healthy variety.

What all this means though, is that

craft beer is not the fad that many

thought it to be. It’s a phenomenon

that has changed the world of beer

forever. In fact, it’s not craft beer

anymore – it’s just beer, and the

kids who come of drinking age in

a decade’s time will never know of

the struggles that came before them.

Welcome to the brave new world of

international craft beer.

There’s evidence that

not all US brewers –

and indeed importers

from other countries –

are going to the same

lengths as Founders

when it comes to

freshness

84 Ferment Magazine

Ferment Magazine 85


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86 Ferment Magazine

Ferment Magazine 87


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Good to the core

Weston’s

Gabe Cook heads along to the village of Much Marcle,

to meet Weston’s, a traditional cider maker with a long

history and impeccable craft credentials

It might come as a surprise to

some people, but Herefordshire

produces more cider, and has

more orchards, than any other

County in the country. Sure, other

areas such as Somerset, Devon and

Dorset have long and proud cider

making traditions, but the imprint

of cider making is indelible in

Herefordshire, with some 15,000

acres of cider orchards carpeting the

rolling, Welsh-border landscape.

There are cider makers of all

scales operating in this County of

Middle Earth levels of beauty and

serenity: from the world’s biggest

all the way down to the passionate

enthusiast making a few gallons in

the cellar. In this mix sits H. Weston

& Sons Ltd, more commonly known

as Westons Cider, based in the

village of Much Marcle.

I need to put my hand up at this

point and say I’ve got a bit of a soft

spot for Westons, for many reasons.

I was born and brought up in a

village called Dymock, which sits

immediately next door to Much

Marcle, and as a boy I used to watch

their blue lorries trundle through

the village.

I also have a tenuous family

connection. A gentleman by the

name of Frank Gardner was the best

man at my Grandparents’ wedding

in 1945, and it just so happened that

Frank was the General Manager of

Westons at the time. My mischievous

side can’t help but think that my

silver-tongued Grandad befriended

lovely old Frank to get a ready

supply of the finest Champagne cider

for the reception.

Finally, I have a personal

association with Westons. After

serving my apprenticeship at a

small cider farm down the road

(living in a shed in the garden) some

nine years ago, I was offered the

opportunity to work for Westons as

a cider maker. Although the barrels

and tanks at Westons were 200

times bigger than at the cider farm,

the principles and processes were

effectively the same (just that the

equivalent of spilling half a bucket

was a lot messier at Westons). By

the time I left Westons, I had fully

graduated from cider school.

The story of Westons Cider begins

in 1878 when young tenant farmer,

Henry Weston, moved into The

Bounds, a farm in Much Marcle, and

as many farmers did at this time, he

started to make cider for his family

and the farm labourers.

Cider was an important currency

in the agricultural world at this time

and farmers were incentivised to

make a quality cider as it attracted

a quality workforce. Every worker

could expect to receive up to four

pints a day as part payment for their

strenuous efforts. Known as ‘truck’

this part payment was officially

outlawed in 1887, but continued

well into the 20th century (and still

exists in some of the deepest, darkest

recesses of Ciderland).

Resident of the Manor House in

Much Marcle at this time was a

gentleman by the name of Charles

Radcliffe Cook. As well as being the

local MP, he was a vocal champion

of cider making. Such was Radcliffe

Cook’s passion for cider that he

wrote a book during the agricultural

depression advocating cider

as a viable enterprise, and was

affectionately known in the Houses of

Parliament as the ‘Member for Cider.’

Buoyed by the quality of cider

he was making, and with Radcliffe

Cook’s support, Henry Weston

decided to start making cider full

time in 1880. And thus, H. Weston

& Sons was born. Fast forward

137 years and Westons Cider has

grown somewhat, but, incredibly,

is still based at The Bounds and

the company is still owned by the

Westons family. Helen Thomas,

the Managing Director, is the great

grand-daughter of Henry Weston

and her son, Guy is one of their

cider makers.

Key to making quality cider is

using quality fruit. Traditional

cider from the West of England has

historically been made with specific

varieties of apple that have been

cultivated for the sole purpose of

making cider. Very different from

dessert apples, these varieties

typically contain large quantities of

tannin, much like you would get in

a red wine. These tannins provide

body, mouthfeel and texture, with

complex interactions between

astringency, bitterness, sweetness

and acidity. These cider apples sport

a wonderful array of evocative

names, such as Slack ma Girdle,

Sheep’s Nose, Hen’s Turds and Cider

Lady’s Finger.

It is crucial, therefore, that

Westons only uses these traditional

cider apples from the ‘Three

Counties’ of Herefordshire,

Worcestershire and Gloucestershire.

Pressed on-site at Much Marcle,

this fruit comes from a mix of

home-grown orchards, as well as

modern and traditional orchards

scattered through the region, many

of which have supplied Westons for

generations.

But Westons’ ‘USP’ is surely its vat

house. Home to 43 oak vats, this is

largest collection its kind in the UK.

Each vat has its own name and its

own story. The smallest three vats,

named Hereford, Gloucester and

Worcester after the regional cities,

are also the oldest. At 1,200 gallons

in size, these vessels were purchased

by Henry Weston in 1880, and were

second hand then, so they could be

pushing 200 years old. The largest

vat, Squeak, can hold 42,107 gallons

– that’s a third of a million pints.

The vats that house Westons’

Organic cider are named after

Henry Weston’s five daughters,

while the ‘Football Vats’ are named

after the top teams at the time of

their construction. Names such as

Blackpool, Wolves and Preston NE

will attest to the fact this they were

built in the 1950s!

It’s not just that these vats are

a wonderful evocation of cider’s

heritage; they are central to the

maturation of the ciders. The cider

makers’ use of the vats at Westons

isn’t to achieve ‘oaky’ flavours, like,

say, in a New World Chardonnay,

but to allow the cider to mellow

90 Ferment Magazine

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Weston’s

and smooth out. The oak harbours

a whole ecosystem of microflora -

yeasts and bacteria – that, if well

managed, can enable the cider to

soften and add layers of complexity.

Westons has a broad repertoire

of traditional styles of ciders, but

stepped into new territory with the

launch of its Caple Rd brand in 2015.

Named after the lane on which The

Bounds sits, Caple Rd is a knowing

nod towards the craft beer explosion

seen in the UK over the last few

years. According to Westons, it was

created “as an innovative craft cider,

uncompromising and challenging,

with taste and flavour at its heart,

and answered the market’s growing

demand for craft.”

92

Ferment Magazine

Tellingly, it is produced in a 330ml

can, the preferred pack format of

craft beers, and the first UK cider

make to do so. The artwork and

language also ensure that this cider

has craft credentials, appealing to its

core consumers.

Precisely what constitutes a craft

cider is a tough question to answer.

Three years ago, the term was

solely being used to describe small,

farm scale cider makers; but the

marketplace has changed drastically

in a short space of time, so the term

is up for grabs. For Westons, being

craft is about being independent,

using small batches, using local fruit,

slow fermentation, long maturation

and challenging flavours.

Weston’s Helen Thomas

As ever, the proof is in the

pudding. For all of the marketing of

any craft brand, the product has got

to taste good. Thankfully, as I can

attest to first hand, Weston’s has a

crack cider-making team, including

fifth generation Weston family

member, Guy Lawrence.

The original Caple Rd variant,

No.3, is a medium dry offering.

Characterised by a rich, toffeelike

aroma, this cider has a decent

backbone of spicy tannins, neatly

balanced by a soft sweetness and

broad acidity. This was joined by

stablemate, No.5, in 2016. Bone

crunchingly dry, but with soft

tannins and a crisp acidity, this cider

lives up to its ‘challenging’ billing.

But it’s a great cider. I have a dry

palette, and often struggle to find a

cider offering that isn’t too sweet for

my liking, so this does the job for me

quite nicely.

So, although the size and scale of

Westons has changed drastically

over the last 137 years, its

commitment to making great ciders

has not. I’m sure Henry would be

very proud.

Gabe hails from cider’s heartland in

the West of England. He has spent the

last 10 years making and advocating

cider in the UK and New Zealand, for

cider makers big and small. He is a

respect cider expert and has judged at

numerous International competitions

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Ferment Magazine 93

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Duotank

Come and visit us at Craft Beer Rising 2017, stand 129

Available from selected shops, including : Noble Green, Drunkdry,

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Available nationwide at: Morrisons, Marks & Spencer,

Waitrose, Laithwaites Wines, Wholefoods and selected

independent wine merchants

Duotank from the Netherlands is a specialist

in beer tank systems. For over three decades,

Duotank has been developing, manufacturing and

perfecting beer tank systems. The philosophy

behind these systems is to not only create

more efficient distribution, but most importantly,

preserve quality. Every beer brewery is constantly

perfecting the quality of its beer. In order to allow

drinkers to experience the same level of quality

that is created in the brewery, beer tanks block as

many external influences as possible.

In general, beer tanks offer breweries of every

size a few main benefits. These range from quality

and distribution, to marketing and optimized

drinking experiences.

With tank beer, quality can be preserved better.

The system works with disposable airtight plastic

bags inside the tank. Compressed air presses

the beer out of the bag to the tap. Since no CO2

is added, shelf life increases by up to 12 weeks.

Maintaining quality is one of the main reasons

why many beer breweries have already chosen

beer tank systems. The plastic bags are especially

designed for food and beverages and do not

influence the taste of the beer.

Since kegs are no longer required, distribution is

less labour-intensive and more workman friendly.

The distribution chain becomes remarkably faster.

Moving kegs around is history and, thanks to

the many different distribution methods, delivery

in combination with casks, bottles or other

containers is still possible. No large investments

are required to find a solution for any type of

brewery. Moreover, by using the disposable plastic

bags, no cleaning process is required. This not

only saves valuable time, but also preserves our

environment. No chemicals or water are needed to

prepare the tanks for a new batch of beer.

Besides the quality advantages, beer tanks

also can help in the marketing of any brewery.

Several breweries around the world use tank beer

as part of very successful marketing campaigns,

increasing the sale of draft beer. The newest

line of copper beer tanks offers great marketing

opportunities, and are an attractive addition to any

bar interior. Beer tanks give consumers the feeling

they are drinking beer directly from the brewery.

94 Ferment Magazine

Ferment Magazine 95


Stone & Wood Brewing

stoneandwood.com.au

From one of the most beautiful,

sun-kissed corners of the

world comes Stone & Wood of

Australia’s Byron Bay. In their idyllic

surroundings, the local inhabitants

epitomise the image of the laid back

Australian attitude. Having left their

jobs with one of the big brewers,

the founders wanted to create beers

that encapsulated this world famous

spirit.

“We love this part of the world…

the beaches… the music… the lush

green hinterland… the people… the

pubs”, they explain. Inspiring their

philosophy of “taking it slow and

keeping it simple”, Brad, Jamie and

Ross have managed to create beers

that have an appeal far beyond their

local community.

Creating beers that are

approachable and whose flavours

and aromas shine through, their

line-up includes the awesome

‘Pacific Ale’. Brewed using a

simple recipe with a focus on local

Galaxy hops, barley and wheat

malt, it really embodies the best of

Australian brewing.

As well as succeeding in their

mission of creating a ‘village

brewery’, at the centre of the Byron

Bay community, Stone & Wood have

gained a following across their home

country. Represented in the UK

for the past five years, their beers

have proven to be one of the great

showcases of Australian hops.

On their first participation in this

year’s CBR, they tell us: “We’re more

than happy to just have a seat at the

table, be present and share with the

world what the Australian brewing

scene has to offer. Festivals like Craft

Beer Rising are the perfect platforms

to do this. We’re very humbled to be

involved this year.”

96 Ferment Magazine

Ferment Magazine 97


Via Limehouse

Immerse yourself in exciting and edgy East London Sleep in a bunk bed in a mixed dorm with four to

life when you stay at Via Limehouse. Watch the boats twelve beds (or a six-bed female only dorm) either

on Limehouse Basin while stopping off at the many with a private bathroom or access to shared facilities.

riverside pubs. In the evening, head to The Troxy to You can also opt for a twin or double for extra privacy.

watch the trendiest performers. Stroll five minutes Store your things in the lockers for peace of mind. Make

to Limehouse DLR Station and you can be in Canary use of the FREE WiFi, grab a snack from the vending

Wharf in minutes for food, shops and skyscrapers. machines, chill out in the TV lounge and chat with staff

Travel a little further and in 20 minutes you can be in anytime on the 24-hour front desk. You don’t even need

hip Shoreditch or at the tasty stalls of Borough Market. to pack a towel as these can be rented at Via Limehouse.

Beer with

a heart

We all know the social power of a

pint, but some beers have greater

ambitions for changing the world

Words: Richard Croasdale

98

Ferment Magazine

Ferment Magazine 99


Beer with a heart

Anyone who has attempted

home brewing will confirm

that making a good beer

is difficult enough. Yet some

brewers, presumably dissatisfied

with this challenge, then set out to

make ‘good’ beers too; beers that

raise awareness, fund life-saving

research, build wells in the poorest

parts of the world. Beers that are,

essentially, more than beers.

Alan Mahon, founder of

Brewgooder believes there is

something in the way we enjoy beer

that makes it uniquely appropriate

for this kind of ambition.

There’s so much power here,

potentially, because beer is so

inherently social; even more so

when you look at craft rather than

the mainstream industry. When you

think about drinking beer, you’re

with your friends, buying each other

rounds. It’s something that connects

people, allows them to share their

stories and perform small acts of

generosity. So, coming to this as a

drinker rather than a brewer, I saw

beer as a potentially massive force

for good.”

In the case of Brewgooder, this

realisation led to the creation of

Clean Water Lager, a beer dedicated

to providing a source of clean

drinking water to one million people

who currently take their life into

their hands every time they take a

drink. Brewed in partnership with

Brewdog, 100% of Brewgooder’s

profits go into working with NGOs

on projects in developing countries.

A similar setup is in place at

The team at Two Fingers brewery

London’s Two Finger Brewing Co,

which donates its profits to Prostate

Cancer UK, helping the one in eight

UK men who will be affected in their

lifetime (check your stones chaps).

As co-founder Matt Sadler says,

although the beer came before the

idea, the brewing side had to be up

to scratch for the venture to work.

“We’ve always known that no one

wants a bad beer, no matter how

much good it does in the world,

so the two have to work together.

What we’re bringing people is better

beer, in every sense of the word. So,

while we were pleased as punch to

win a Nectar Small Business Award

for Contribution to the Community,

we were even more delighted to win

a Great Taste star, a couple of medals

in the International Beer Challenge

and an International Beer Award for

Aurelio.”

Where Brewgooder and Two

Fingers wear their hearts very much

on their sleeves, other breweries

with a social goal prefer to keep

a greater degree of separation

between the beer and the good

works. New York’s Sixpoint brewery

– cited by Alan as inspiration for

Brewgooder, because of the quality

of its beers – has its own animal

welfare scheme and annual shindig,

Beers for Beasts, which raises money

for the New York Humane Society.

Each year, Sixpoint holds a huge

event – with 800 paying guests –

If you’re a craft

brewery and your

whole ethos is based

around providing

the best drinking

experience for your

customer, then you

will probably see a

good culture all round

featuring live entertainment, food

stalls and 45 custom beers, all

produced by the brewery specifically

for the day. It’s a huge undertaking

which could easily distract from

the day-to-day graft of running a

successful brewery, but Sixpoint’s

Mikey Lenane explains that it’s part

of their DNA.

“It started with Shane Welch, our

founder,” says Mikey. “He has two

rescue dogs and, over the time at

our little garage brewery, rescued

three or four cats. And I think one

day it struck him that we could use

beer culture and everything we love

about it to raise some money. It’s

turned out to be something a lot of

people can support.”

However, while community

support has driven the success of

both the brewery and the annual

event, Mikey admits they have

always been wary of making that

link too overtly.

“We make sure not to blast

Sixpoint all over that festival. We use

our social accounts to promote it,

our fans know we do it, but we want

to make sure that nobody gets the

wrong idea about our motivations.

Because it does help the brand, of

course, but it’s not why we do it. And

to be honest, brewing all those new

beers each year is such a lot of work

that it probably wouldn’t make sense

as a commercial exercise anyway!”

Mikey touches on an interesting

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Beer with a heart

Beer with a heart

point here, which is repeated by

Alan: like a social enterprise in

any industry, these breweries are

instinctively comfortable with

having more than one bottom

line. The ability to pay your staff

and fund growth are important,

of course, but success can be

measured against other

less tangible social

criteria too.

I put it to Alan that

the very nature of

craft brewing –

where quality

and the idea

of serving a community are often

genuinely more important than profit

– makes it easier not only to pursue

charitable goals, but also to be a more

ethical business day-to-day.

“I wouldn’t say that you have to

be giving away all your profits to

be an ethical business,” he says. “I

mean, the guys at Brewdog have the

most remarkable values and they’re

not necessarily driven by any social

mission. But I agree that if you’re

a craft brewery and your whole

ethos is based around providing the

best drinking experience for your

customer, then you will probably see

a good culture all round. Whether

that’s in terms of how you source

materials, treat your staff or work

with other businesses. You need to

have your heart in the right place to

be a good craft brewer.”

Matt agrees: “We’ve met loads of

craft brewers since starting Two

Fingers and have always found

them to be extremely warm and

passionate people, who do what they

do for the love of it – not just to make

money. I think it’s this sense of love,

care and passion that is fuelling the

growth of social enterprise beer.”

Even outside the craft world

though, this sense that beer can and

should benefit the wider community

still seems pervasive. Heineken in

particular has a reputation spanning

decades for its charitable work,

which encompasses everything

from partnering with major nongovernmental

organisations (NGOs)

to donating cash and resources to

the tiniest local charities.

One of the company’s most eyecatchingly

creative initiatives dates

back to 1963, when Alfred Heineken

saw that one of his main waste

products – the beer bottle – could

be used to tackle a serious social

problem in developing countries.

His idea came after visiting the

Caribbean and noticing the beaches

were strewn with empty beer

bottles, yet the poorest struggled for

affordable building materials.

These seemingly unconnected

problems inspired Heineken,

working with Dutch architect John

Habraken, to create the WOBO

(world bottle, pictured). The “brick

that holds beer” was designed to lay

horizontally and interlock, in much

the same manner as traditional

bricks and mortar, and was years

ahead of its time in terms of

ecologically sensitive construction.

Sadly, the idea never took off,

and the only structure made from

the initial run of 100,000 WOBOs

is a shed on Heineken’s estate in

Noordwijk, Netherlands.

Such ambitious but ultimately

unsuccessful projects aside, it’s hard

to say how much impact the work of

a few brewers really has on a world

so full of deserving causes. This

doesn’t seem to deter the brewers

themselves though; on the contrary,

the more success they have, the

more they seem to want to reach out

and make a difference.

“It’s hard to quantify whether

you’re making a difference until

you actually see it first-hand,” says

Alan. “We went out in February

and saw what clean water can do

for a community, and we’ve funded

three or four projects since then.

That’s thousands of people, whose

lives we’ve had the opportunity to

improve in the most fundamental

way possible. Genuinely, I feel if

we’d only been able to build one

well from this, then we’d have done

some good.”

Mikey also sees much more that

Sixpoint can do to help: “We know

we’ve hit on a formula here that

works. There are some little tweaks

we need to make, but our plan is to

scale it up over the next few years.

You’ve got all these hundreds of

beer festivals every weekend, but

we think Beer for Beasts is a very

different kind of experience. We’d

like to work with the Humane

Society to take that beyond New

York, and one day even give the

charitable side its own organisation

to run things. This could be huge.”

The spirit that makes craft beer

such a great movement to be part of

– that sense that if something is good

enough then people will recognise

it, no matter how small you start – is

driving some truly inspiring social

enterprises, making a real difference

to people’s lives. Or, as Two Fingers’

Matt puts it, “people love the idea

that they can help save lives just by

sinking a cold one”. It’s hard to argue

with that.

102 Ferment Magazine

Ferment Magazine 103


EATS

Sit-down beer grub

EST.

HE MAC SHAC

TTHE MAC SHAC

Mac Shac

Bringing banging Mac and Cheese to CBR for the second year running, The Mac Shac offers a

2014 gourmet, fresh-baked twist on a classic, filling dish. Made with handfuls of artisan cheese, then

baked and finished with your choice of brilliantly balanced toppings - this is the real deal!

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

crabby.pdf 11/02/2014 12:58:21

The Crabbie Shack

We bring a modern spin on seafood dishes, straight from the tropical, rum soaked, South Kent

coast. We use seasonal and local produce to create our unique and decadent dishes.

We make all our own stocks and sauces to ensure the continuity of our punchy flavoured

snacks. We won best street food in London 2014 at the British Street food Awards

A taste of the sea from around the world. We use Old Bay spice in our batter and on our fries.

Our calm chowder fries have been nothing short of a phenomenon on the streets of London.

We bring good times, good vibes, amazing food and peace and harmony.

MYPIE

MYPIE was founded by trained chef Chris Brumby in 2014, who was frustrated by the

poor quality mass-produced pies often served at football matches and music festivals and

passionate to prove that a street food pie could taste just as great as those made at home.

Winner of 5 medals at the British Pie Awards in 2016, MYPIE’s “epic pies and awesome sides”

have built up a loyal cult following, with regular sell-out successful sessions in Streetdots’

Broadgate Circle lineup plus guest trader spots at Southbank Centre Food Market, KERB

events around London, and numerous weddings across the UK.

Fleisch Mob

Anglo-Austrian hot dog slinger serving up Viennese and Bavarian style hot dogs - perfect

beer festival fodder. Fleisch Mob was born of a desire to mix Austrian street food with a

London sensibility. We cook Austrian sausages with a London twist using the best of British

ingredients.

Prairie Fire BBQ

Prairie Fire BBQ is London’s only authentic Kansas City Style BBQ. Prairie Fire was founded

in London 2013 by Kansas City native Michael Gratz who was yearning for a taste of home.

PFQ puts all of their energy into creating bona fide American BBQ staples like slow smoked

ribs, burnt ends, brisket, pulled pork, and other delicious comfort dishes like cowboy pit beans,

Mac and cheese and Cheesy Corn bake. Their award-winning sauce is sold in Europe’s finest

butchers and markets. The team at PFQ recently opened a permanent food stall at Mercato

Metropolitano where you can find all of their best dishes.

Le Bao

At Le Bao, our mission is to bring a modern flare to the traditional Asian steamed buns,

providing customers an unique an unforgettable experience. We only use high quality

ingredients which are sourced, organic and/or free range. Our buns are made out of soy milk

and rice flour (gluten free) and won the British Street Food Awards “Best Sandwich” 2016.

‘SALTY LOINS‘

Dipped Pork Connoisseurs

Salty Loins

Street food to craft beer Salty Loins brewery and taproom pop-ups around London have had

punters salivating week in and week out with their Sheffield inspired ‘dipped’ pork. Winning

combos of pork steak ciabatta, chips n’ gravy and veggie options with lashings of their

Amazing Glazes pair up nicely with beer and cider alike.

104 Ferment Magazine

Ferment Magazine 105


EATS

Graze on, beer lover

Cleaver & Keg

Good meats – the best in fact, 100% British too – ready to be paired with pints that deserve

them. Salt cured, air-dried, richly-spiced meaty morsels, doing more to set off your pint and

taste buds than a crisp or peanut ever could. We hope you’ll agree that Cleaver & Keg can

offer the pub-goers of Great Britain just the snack that their fine pints truly merit.

Find your perfect match now #beermatch. Cleaver and keg: Meaty morsels for the modern

drinker.

Little Jack Horner

We make really good sausage rolls. What we love about sausage rolls is that they are the

perfect comfort food snack. It’s because they’re versatile and so easy to eat. They’re perfect

for event catering, eat them cold when out for picnics or for packed lunches, you could heat

them up in the oven at home for the family and friends, or what about mini ones for canapés?

The best sausage rolls we’ve ever tasted”

– GQ Magazine

Protong

New to the market, Protong are producers of the finest Biltong the UK has to offer. Only the

finest Spices and British grass fed Beef are used to create the ultimate beer snack that is

taking the UK by storm. Not only is Biltong a much healthier alternative snack, it is super tasty

too!

Popchips

It’s time to give your taste buds a spanking, with new pop chips ridges available in four cheeky

flavours, all with big crunch for ultimate satisfaction. The new range of Popchips ridges are

packed full of flavoursome crunch, still with less than half the fat of fried crisps and under 100

calories per pack – so if you’re feeling hungry, pop along and say hi.

Karkli

What do great breweries like Beavertown, Magic Rock, Thornbridge and Siren have in

common? Their Taprooms all have the lentil crisp, Karkli, as the snack to go with their beers.

There’s a flavour for everyone, from the mild Classic Karkli, to the complex Coriander Karkli

and finally the Fiery Smoked Habeberno chilli Karkli for the brave.

Serious Pig

Conceived by two friends in the pub that agreed on the need for a killer snack that worked

equally well with a pint as it did with a glass of fine wine.

The planets align - the emerging craft meat scene, the trend towards higher welfare meat. The

result; Serious Pig.

The Snaffling Pig co.

Porky snacks in a range of flavours for your piggin’ pleasure. If you’re feeling brave, the ghost

chilli based Pig of Doom is at your service.

We’re makers of (what we think is) awesome flavoured pork crackling.

We had two minutes of fame on Dragons’ Den recently.

We’re partial to a high five.

Soffles Pitta Chips

The early days of pitta chip production started in a garden shed in Hackney as a all natural

beer snack for pals. At their best with beers and dips you can find them in the best taprooms,

bottleshops and pubs including Beavertown, Mondo, Notting Hill and Craft Beer Co.

TRY THEM!


BEATS

Thursday 23rd

Discofunk and The London Disco Society presents:

18:30 – Leopold

Leopold is a DJ and radio host based in North London, with a true passion for music of all shapes and

forms. Having been exposed to a lot of soul and jazz at a young age, this influence has been ever-

present since he first put a needle to a record in 2012. Catch him delving into his record collection of

house, disco, funk all in between on the Thursday evening session at CBR this year.

19:30 – Dirty Laundry

Nick Gynn and Tim Ross have been performing together as ‘Dirty Laundry’ since 2013. Established

and popular DJs in their own right, they have over 30 years of experience between them. It’s this

knowledge and understanding that clearly translate into the kind of positive dancefloor experiences

that have lit up the likes of Glastonbury, Secret Garden Party, Eastern Electrics and Meadows in the

Mountains. https://www.facebook.com/dirtylaundryldn/

20:30 – The London Disco Society

The London Disco Society is a clubnight/DJ outfit known best for churning out Classic Disco, House

and re-edits across the spectrum, from cosmic, to boogie to deep disco rhythms infused with solid

house grooves to glitter covered festival goers across the UK and internationally. LDS can also be

heard on the airwaves fortnightly Thursdays 7-9pm GMT on Music Box Radio.

http://www.cuemusicagency.com/#/londondisco/

21:30 – Kay Suzuki

Kay Suzuki grew up in Japan and Singapore, surrounded by his family’s love for music. Since he

moved to London in 2004, he has been heavily involved its diverse club scenes and has had a debut

release on the BBC’s award winning party/label CO-OP in 2007. While releasing remixes, re-edits

and original production on several labels in Europe, U.S.A and Japan, he also launched his own label

Round In Motion in 2010, and subsequently released his first album, Consciousness. As a DJ, Kay’s

infectious love for diverse music brings any music lovers into joyful dance floor.

http://testpressing.org/feature/kay-suzuki-round-in-motion-brilliant-corners/

22:30 – James Priestley (Secretsundaze)

The founder of one of London’s most prestigious parties - Secretsundaze joins for a very special

Thursday session @ CBR this year. James has a distinct DJ style, playing broadly deep house and

techno, often borrowing from his freestyle background, preferring to move things around than follow

one linear groove. https://www.facebook.com/jamespriestleylondon/

Friday 24th

18:30 – Don Simón

Inspired by performers such as DJ Yoda, Beardyman and the Cuban Brothers, Don Simón’s style is

eclectic but familiar, presenting classic grooves in a new light. Expect to hear unknown remixes of

funky breaks, hip hop and soul.

https://www.mixcloud.com/discofunk/discofunk-tape-vll-mixed-by-don-sim

19:30 – DJ Kengo San (4 To The Floor / Cuban Brothers)

Expect a bag full of tunes from party classics to fresh-off-the-press promos. Having started his love

affair with music as a dancer, he knows what beats will move and shake. Currently producing house

music under the alias of BLcKBLT, resident at 4 to the floor and also known to don some tight fitting

spandex while performing as part the outrageously comedic foursome The Cuban Brothers.

http://www.sohoradiolondon.com/member/4-to-the-floor

20:30 –Kiko Bun

North-West London’s Kiko offers a contemporary voice for his generation over music that feels

timeless. Kiko has crafted a refreshing and contemporary sound based on the re-emergence of

reggae, soul and golden era hip hop that continues to infiltrate mainstream music.

http://www.islandrecords.co.uk/island-artists/kiko-bun/

21:30 – Special guest

22:30 – The Reflex

Fascinated by the remix from an early age, London-based French native Nicolas Laugier, aka

The Reflex, takes his cue from the first wave of disco remixers by using only the original sounds

from the master tapes (or stems) to breathe new life into soul, pop and disco classics. Imaginative

arrangements, boxfresh sonics and intricate editing make The Reflex Revisions rocket fuel for every

DJ set. http://www.theunityagency.co.uk/portfolio/the-reflex/

Music


Music

Music

Saturday 25th

12:00 – Optimus Funk

A veteran of London’s street dance scene, Optimus Funk is a DJ who embodies dance culture and

can rock a party from either side of the decks. He carries an unmistakable groove throughout his

repertoire, which includes boogie, disco, funk, hip-hop, house and world music; showcasing a mixture

of classic floor-fillers and underground gems that resonate with music lovers from all backgrounds.

http://www.cuemusicagency.com/#/optimusfunk/

13:00 – Pete Paphides

Pete Paphides bought his first record, aged nine, and hasn’t stopped since. Along the way, he has

written about music for several publications including The Times, The Guardian, The Observer, Q,

Mojo and Time Out. He has also written and presented several documentaries for BBC Radio 4 as

well as two series of Vinyl Revival for BBC 6 Music.

http://www.sohoradiolondon.com/member/pete-paphides

14:30 – Showhawk Duo

Young British guitarists Mikhail Asanovic and Jake Wright, together known as The Showhawk Duo,

have dazzled audiences worldwide with their spectacular approach to playing the guitar.

Their playing style has broken down barriers between acoustic and electronic music. They have rethought

traditional musical structure creating their own all-encompassing genre.

http://www.showhawk.com/home

20:30 – Showhawk Duo

Young British guitarists Mikhail Asanovic and Jake Wright return for an evening session.

21:20 – Boca45

Bristol’s Scott Hendy has spent twelve years plying his trade and fine-tuning his art. A DJ and

producer who has remained creative through it all, he shows no signs of slowing down.

Armed with a few crates soul, hip hop, motown and funk 45’s Boca returns to CBR to share his

collection across the waves at The Old Truman Brewery. http://www.boca45.co.uk/about

22:30 – DJ Yoda

DJ Yoda is a multi-award-winning hip-hop DJ and producer, headlining festivals and clubs around

the world. No typical club DJ, his interests lie in finding fresh and unique ways to bring turntables

out of the club and getting involved in bespoke collaborations. Working with classical composers

to neuroscientists; brass bands to film directors; Dr Dre to Dame Evelyn Glennie; Banksy to Mark

Ronson; BBC Radio 4 to the BFI, he reinvigorates his craft with wry invention and humorous intent.

https://www.residentadvisor.net/dj/yoda/biography

15:30 – Bill Brewster

One minute he’s rocking the roof off at Fabric with his tough and funky big-room underground house;

the next he’s charming the pants off a more intimate crowd with everything from dubby disco, funk and

hip-hop to trip hop and Latin batucadas. Armed with a sensitivity and sense of occasion that few DJs

possess Bill Brewster knows how to work a crowd in the best possible sense.

https://www.residentadvisor.net/dj/billbrewster/biography

Evening

18:30 – The London Disco Society

Back for an evening sesson to kickstart the dance floor.

19:30 – Don Letts

Don Letts’ reputation has been firmly established in both the film and music world, by a substantial

body of work, from the late 70’s through the 80’s, 90’s and well into the millennium. He came to

notoriety in the late 70’s as the DJ that single-handedly turned a whole generation of punks onto

reggae. http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/profiles/1BCxVNbpKX81tHx5TBncKJL/don-letts

Ferment Magazine 111


SPEAKS

Thursday 23rd

13:00-14:00 – Contact brew speed networking

Are you thinking about contract brewing, bottling or mobile canning? Would you like your own bespoke

beer for your venue? Or are you wondering if your brewery can use some of its spare capacity to make you

money? Are you searching for the right partner for that or do you just want to hear about the wisdom of others

who’ve already embarked on this path? Then this event is perfect for you.

Speakers: Stu McKinlay - Yeastie Boys; Matthew Denham - U-Brew; Duncan Sambrook - South East Bottling;

Jamie Kenyon - Them That Can; Brewdog - Quality Assurance

15:00-16:00 – Legal, Training & Dispense Speed Networking

Do you need a little bit of legal advice on a niggly problem? Would you like to know what training options are

out there for you or your staff? Is your cellar or dispense equipment misbehaving or needs replacing? If the

answer to any of this is yes, then this is the networking hour for you.

Speakers: Adam Hardie - Johnston Carmichael; Laurie Vella – Atlantic; Calum Towers - CPL Training

Friday 24th

12:30-13:30 – Contract Brew Speed Networking

Are you thinking about contract brewing, bottling or mobile canning? Would you like your own bespoke

beer for your venue? Or are you wondering if your brewery can use some of its spare capacity to make you

money? Are you searching for the right partner for that or do you just want to hear about the wisdom of others

who’ve already embarked on this path? Then this event is perfect for you.

Speakers: Stu McKinlay Yeastie Boys; Sarah John - Boss Brewing; Matthew Denham - U-Brew; Duncan

Sambrook - South East Bottling; Jamie Kenyon - Them That Can; Brewdog - Quality Assurance

Friday 24th

18:30-19:30 – Sylvia Kopp: European Beer Ambassador for the

Brewers Association

European Beer Ambassador for the Brewers Association Sylvia Kopp talks you through a tasting of some of

the best from over the pond.

Speaker: Sylvia Kopp

20:00-21:00 – Home Brew Help: from starter to master

Already homebrew and want to master your malt, hops, water and yeast? Looking to get into it? Don’t even

know where to start? We get together some of the UK’s best advocates - Ubrew, Home Brew Depot and The

Thirsty Gardeners - to help you start or master your own beer making technique.

Speakers: Simon Pipola - Beer Boars East London; Matt Denham – Ubrew; Nick Moyles & Richard Hood -

The Thirsty Gardeners

Saturday 25th

12:30-13:15 – Melissa Cole: Off Flavours Masterclass with Flavoractiv

Do you know your diacetyl from your DMS? Can you identify some of the most common faults in beer and

where they originate from? If not you might be doing your business and customers a disservice. Awardwinning

beer writer Melissa Cole will outline the most common faults in beer and how to tackle them.

Speaker: Melissa Cole

13:45-14:30 –Sylvia Kopp: European Beer Ambassador for the

Brewers Association

European Beer Ambassador for the Brewers Association Sylvia Kopp talks you through a tasting of some of

the best from over the pond.

Speaker: Sylvia Kopp

15:00-15:45 – Melissa Cole: Cooking with Beer

When a recipe calls for ‘beer’ what on earth do you actually use? Beer writer and avid cook Melissa Cole lets

you into some of the biggest secrets of cooking with beer - which is basically, she says, making sure you don’t

make the same disgusting mistakes she has over the years!

14:00-15:30 – Melissa Cole: Off Flavours Masterclass with Flavoractiv

Do you know your diacetyl from your DMS? Can you identify some of the most common faults in beer and

where they originate from? If not you might be doing your business and customers a disservice. Awardwinning

beer writer Melissa Cole will outline the most common faults in beer and how to tackle them.

Photo: Steve Ullathorne

Beer and whisky: the best of drinking buddies

Join Auchentoshan at its bar on Stand 2 for a thrilling journey Every day...

into the world of whisky and beer cocktails. Whisky and beer Session 1: 12.20 - 13.00

This year you can plan your visit using the CBR17 Digital Directory

cocktails? Are you sure? Yes we’re sure - come and find out Session 2: 13.20 - 14.00

why with the award-winning Thinking Drinkers, as they take you Break:14.00 - 14.40

Powered by Bottlebooks, the directory contains information about the breweries, the beers available

through the history of these two long-time friends.

Session 3: 15.00 - 15.40

for you to try and you can even book your spot for our talks and masterclasses.

There’ll be whisky, beer and you can try the Auchentoshan & Session 4: 16.00 - 16.40

Use the directory to search through the exhibitors’ beers by category and add them to your personal

Ale cocktail and make your own mind up. You’ll even get to can

tasting list which you can share with your friends.

your own cocktail on our crowler machine to take away with you.

Finally, you can Tweet your love for the beers you taste directly from the CBR17 Digital Directory.

Spaces are limited so make sure to book!

Go to: http://directory.craftbeerrising.co.uk/ and get a first look at everything that CBR17 has to offer. Ferment Magazine 113


BEER HALL

6 7 8 9 1 10

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23

24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46

47 48 49 50 2 51 52 53 54 55 56 3 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67

68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90

112 111 110 109 108 107 106 105 104

103 102 5 101 100 99 98 97 96 95 94 4

93

113 114 115 116 117 118 119

ENTRANCE

4

2

7

1

6

1 2 3 4 5

3

91

92

TALKS AREA

FOOD COURT

MUSIC ROOM

ROOM 2

129

128

127

126

125

124

123

122

121

120

134 147

135 146

136 145

137 144

138 143

139 142

140 141

148 149

150 151

133

130 131 132

360 Brewing co 54

40Ft Brewery 7

Adnams 52

American Craft Beer Co. inc.

Stevens Point Brewery 88

Animal Brewing Co 138

Bear Republic, Abita

Brewing, Instil Ciders 129

Bedlam Brewery 46

Belhaven Brewery 33

Bellfield Brewery 77

Big Hug 144

Birrifico del Ducato 40

Black flag Brewery 69

Black Isle Brewing Co. 68

Boon 108

Boss Brewing Company 28

Brew by Numbers 143

Brewdog 99

Brewgooder 123

Brewheadz 8

Brewhouse and Kitchen 145

Brooklyn brewery 93

Broughton Ales 84

Bru Brewery 9

Butcombe Brewery 127

Cairngorm brewery 80

Caledonian Brewing Co 31

Calvors Brewery 137

Camden Town Brewery 26

Canopy Beer Co. 43

Charlies 115

Craft Academy 64

Crafted Exports 10

DE14 32

Devils Peak 114

DEYA Brewing Company 39

Drygate Brewing Co 79

Duvel Moortgat UK 19

EARTH ALE / Essex Street

Brewery@Temple Brew 44

East London Brewing

Company Ltd. 63

Edge Brewing Barcelona 150

Edinburgh beer factory 81

Enefeld Brewery 132

Fallen Brewing 82

Fierce Beer 97

Firebird Brewing Co. 20

Forest Road Brewing Co. 62

Founders brewing company 30

Founders Brewing Company 30

Fourpure Brewing Co. 111

Fruli 11

Fuller, Smith and Turner 67

Fyne ales 83

Garage Brewing 151

Gipsy Hill Brewing Co 119

Goose Island 121

Gower Brewery 49

Gun Brewery 57

Hammerton Brewery 136

Harry Brompton’s Alcoholic

Ice Tea 37

Harvey & Son (Lewes) Ltd 13

Harviestoun Brewery 98

Hawkes / Urban Orchard 12

Hawkshead Brewery 116

Heathwick World Craft

Beers 3

Heavy Industry / Crafty Devil

/ Tenby 45

Hiver Beers 47

Hog’s Back Brewery 117

Hop Stuff Brewery 40

House of beers 92

Hoxton Cidersmiths 103

Ilkley Brewery 102

Innis & Gunn 95

Jack Black brewing 128

Kentish Pip Cider 65

Kungsbryggeriet 148

Lagunitas 75

Laine Brew Co. 48

LAM Brewing 5

Little Beer Corporation 4

Long Arm Brewing Co 126

Lost Rivers Brewing Co. 131

Maeloc cider 59

Maltsmiths Brewing 36

Manor brewing co 38

Maule Brewing Co. 141

Meantime Brewing

Company 51

Moor Beer Company 60

More wine 134

Morgenrot 1

Nene Valley Brewery 42

New Zealand Beer

Collective 142

Oakham Ales 25

Oddly 72

Old Hands 71

Orbit Beers 125

Orchard Pig Cider 18

Porterhouse Brewing Co 53

Portobello Brewing

Company 74

Powderkeg 124

Prancing Pony 113

Purity Brewing Co 29

Rat Brewery 109

RedWillow Brewery 122

Renegade Brewing 146

Rooster’s Brewing Co. 70

Roque Ales 106

Saltaire Brewery 17

Schremser 105

Shepherd Neame 6

Sheppy’s Cider Ltd. 50

Sierra Nevada 66

Ska Brewing 107

Sonnet 43 Brew House 120

Spey valley brewery 78

Speyside Craft Brewery 94

Cask International 16

Cave direct limited 22

Harbour Brewing Company

ltd 139

Moncada Brewery 15

Mondo Brewing Company 152

St Andrews Brewing Co 96

Stieql 104

Stone and Wood Brewing

Company 14

Thatchers Cider 35

The Isle of Sky Brewing

Company 95

The London Beer Factory 58

The wild beer co 140

Thistly Cross Cider 147

Tiny Rebel Brewing Co. 21

Trilogy Beverage Brands 91

Twisted Barrel Ale 135

Two chefs brewing 153

Two Tribes Brewing / Island

Records 110

UBREW 149

Umbrella Brewing 56

Unorthodox Brewing – Dead

end brew machine 61

Wild Card Brewery 24

Williams Brothers Brewery 86

Windswept Brewing co 87

Wolfpack Lager 118

SPONSORS

Brewers’ Association 1

Auchentoshan 2

Pop Chips 3

Vedett 4

FOOD

Soffles Chips 2

Protong 3

Little Jack Horner 4

Serious Pig 5

Snaffling Pig 6

Cleaver and Keg 7

KEY

1

STAND - BEER

1

STAND - CIDER

1

SNACK STAND

FOOD STALL

STAGE

SPONSORS

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TRADE STAND

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