1889 June | July new

TRIP PLANNER: 

EVERETT 

PG.78 

Go Green with 

Backyard Envy 

Sweet Onion 

Scalloped Potatoes 

Central Oregon’s 

Land of Plenty 

WINEMAKERS 

TALK TERROIR 

1889mag.com 

$5.95 display until July 31, 2017 

OUR FAVORITE 

TOWNS TO RELAX 

AND RECHARGE 

LIVE THINK EXPLORE WASHINGTON 

June | July volume 3

360.671.3990 

bellingham.org 

BELLINGHAM FESTIVAL OF MUSIC | SHOPPING | ARTS DISTRICT 

ADVENTURES BY LAND AND SEA | WATERFRONT HOTELS 

YOUR SPOUSE CALLED… 

AND SAID, “GET YOURSELF 

SOMETHING NICE.”

Savoring Walla Walla Culture 

Walla Walla might just have it all. There’s the wine, of course, 

to say nothing of the sweetest onions around. But maybe you 

didn’t know about the small-town shops, big-city dining, and 

yes, breweries. Learn more about this gem in Southeastern 

Washington in An Onion History or Four Winemakers and their 

Terroirs. 

Bradley Lanphear 

2 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2017 

A snifter of IPA sits ready for consumption at Wingman Birdz + Brewz.

Bradley Lanphear 

Brendon Mendoza pours a raspberry cream ale at Wingman Birdz + Brewz. 

JUNE | JULY 2017 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 3

FEATURES 

Cody Rheault 

JUNE | JULY 2017 • volume 3 

44 

Recharge Your Soul 

If you need a spot to unplug and unwind, we’ve 

got five small-town picks for you. 

written by Charyn Pfeuffer 

50 

Winemakers of Washington 

We connect with four winemakers who share 

their stories of how they came to that region— 

that terroir. 

written by Naomi Tomky 

58 

Spokane Hoopfest 

Every year the basketball world descends on 

Spokane for the largest 3v3 outdoor basketball 

tournament in the world. 

photos provided by Spokane Hoopfest

Get your Culture on! 

CULTURE | FOOD | MUSIC 

Tipi VilLage | Local Native artists, foOd & performances 

Camping, Glamping, RV & Tent Sites 

OFFICIAL NASA VIEWING SITE 

Visit us at oregonsolarfest.com 

CULTURAL SPONSOR 

In Partnership with 

The Museum At 

Warm Springs 

IndianHeadCasino.com | 541-460-7777 | US-26, Warm Springs, Oregon 97761 |

18 

DEPARTMENTS 

JUNE | JULY 2017 • volume 3 

LIVE 

14 SAY WA? 

Embrace summer with our favorite ice cream, outdoor concerts and 

garden seeds. We have great music for sitting on the porch, and a 

memoir of a smokejumper that will get you ready for fire season. 

20 FOOD + DRINK 

We’ve got you covered in the pink drinks department, thanks to Ox & 

Cart’s cocktail recipe. And satisfy the desire for a true Pacific Northwest 

meal at our restaurant picks, or belly up to one of our top diners. 

24 HOME + DESIGN 

Walla Walla Sweet Onions are more than Washington’s official 

vegetable—they’re also a tasty addition to nearly any dish. See also 

the beautiful backyard remodel that launched a new business. 

32 MIND + BODY 

Lauren Barnes, a star defender for Seattle Reign FC in the National 

Women’s Soccer League, is a force on and off the field. 

43 

84 

Cody Rheault 

34 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 

Venture into rural Washington’s post offices, courts and libraries to find murals 

commissioned by the federal government during the Great Depression.–– 

THINK 

38 STARTUP 

Groundspeak brings the worldwide game of hide-and-seek, known 

as geocaching, to the masses. 

40 WHAT’S GOING UP 

Tasting rooms are going up around the state, giving wine lovers 

new spots to sip regional wines. 

41 WHAT I’M WORKING ON 

WSU’s Lois James runs a lab in Spokane that seeks to answer questions 

about instincts and biases of police in use-of-force situations. 

42 MY WORKSPACE 

Researchers at the Bear Research, Education and Conservation 

Center work in close quarters with eleven grizzlies. 

43 GAME CHANGER 

Kelp the world! The Puget Sound Restoration Fund is cultivating 

kelp to save the oceans. 

10 Editor’s Letter 

11 1889 Online 

87 Map of Washington 

88 Until Next Time 

EXPLORE 

66 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 

You don’t have to trek to England to see Stonehenge. A replica 

sits in Maryhill. 

68 ADVENTURE 

Katy Stewart takes us on a perilous 750-mile Race to Alaska, a 

motorless boat race from Port Townsend to Ketchikan, Alaska. 

74 LODGING 

Alderbrook Resort is a remote retreat that skimps neither on 

luxury nor solitude. 

78 TRIP PLANNER 

Everett combines that small-town feel with big-city features, right 

in Seattle’s backyard. 

COVER 

photo by Bradley Lanphear 

Palouse Falls 

Walla Walla, Washington 

84 NORTHWEST DESTINATION 

Bend is a high desert outdoors paradise with all the trappings for 

an active getaway—beer, bikes and beautiful scenery.

DRINK IT IN. 

wake up to 

Washington’s Magazine 

Purchase your limited edition* mug at 1889mag.com/shop today! 

*Available until June 30th, 2017 

001_Ads_1889_JUNE/JULY_ 2017_IDP.indd 7 

5/26/17 5:47 PM

CONTRIBUTORS 

NAOMI TOMKY 

Writer 

Washington Winemakers 

When I first reached Anna 

GREG LEHMAN 

Photographer 

An Onion History 

Once I’m out from between 

SHEILA G. MILLER 

Writer 

Northwest Destination: 

Bend, Oregon 

CODY RHEAULT 

Photographer 

Northwest Destination: 

Bend, Oregon 

Schafer, she apologized—her 

the sheets, it is always good 

Most Bendites have a love-hate 

Central Oregon has been my 

three-month-old baby was 

to watch a sunrise with my 

relationship with tourists— 

home for more than a decade 

taxing her energy. It was an 

cameras. This particular 

love the business that pours 

now. And as a photographer, 

endearing moment, and rare 

morning there were a few 

into their community, hate 

I feel there’s no better place 

in the overwhelmingly white 

clouds in the eastern sky, but 

the number of puffy-coat 

to witness such diversity in 

and male winemaking world, 

with enough clearing between 

wearers at their favorite dinner 

seasons, events and the people 

as were Kit Singh’s story of 

them that I had great hopes 

spots and out-of-state-plated 

who live here. My work has 

immigrating from Trinidad and 

for some sweet golden light 

Subarus stealing prime parking 

taken me around the world 

David O’Reilly’s of his Belfast 

to make the field of immature 

spots at local trails. But what I 

capturing stories and locations, 

childhood. In writing their 

Walla Walla Sweet onions 

hope we can all agree on is that 

but every time I come home, 

stories and passion for wine, I 

come alive. Now I look forward 

Bend is a special place with a 

it’s a breath of fresh air. 

found hope that diversity and 

to another sensory joy in 

ton to recommend it. 

(p. 84) 

inclusion may be the future for 

Walla Walla, the June harvest 

(p. 84) 

Washington wine. 

of these onions that makes 

(p. 50) 

the valley smell like a freshly 

opened bag of sour cream and 

onion chips! 

(p. 24) 

8 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2017

EDITOR 

MANAGING EDITOR 

CREATIVE LEAD 

DESIGN 

SALES + MARKETING 

WEB EDITOR 

WEBMASTER 

OFFICE MANAGER 

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES 

BEERVANA COLUMNIST 

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS 

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS 

Kevin Max 

Sheila G. Miller 

Brooke Miracle 

Ashlee Pierce 

Kelly Hervey 

Lindsay McWilliams 

Isaac Peterson 

Cindy Miskowiec 

Ashley Davis 

Kelly Hervey 

Jenny Kamprath 

Sandra King 

Julie Lee 

Deb Steiger 

Jackie Dodd 

Gina Cohen, Melissa Dalton, Beau Eastes, Julie Lee, Charyn Pfeuffer, 

Ben Salmon, Katy Stewart, Naomi Tomky, Corinne Whiting, Mackenzie Wilson 

Don H. Detrick, Bill Devlin, Bradley Lanphear, Greg Lehman, Cody 

Rheault, Cameron Zegers 

70 SW Century Dr. 

Suite 100-218 

Bend, Oregon 97702 

541.728.2764 

STATEHOOD MEDIA 

1889mag.com/subscribe 

@1889washington 

1801 NW Upshur St. 

Suite 100 

Portland, Oregon 97209 

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FROM THE 

EDITOR 

EVERMORE, WE ARE doing more on our phones for work 

and play—photos, videos, social media, a nostalgic email or 

two, even making phone calls. Something lost. Increasingly, 

this leads us to a backlash, a retreat to a place and time where 

distraction is infrequent and life plays out in waterfalls, 

local produce prepared for dinner and dirt trails underfoot. 

Something gained. 

From the North Cascades to the high desert and the Sound, 

we go old school to find five Washington towns that provide 

real-life alternatives to tech infestation and safe harbor from 

the masses. Turn to page 44 and find your three-day mind 

cleanse. 

While you’re out, find this hidden culinary gem—the 

Walla Walla sweet onion. First introduced in Washington in 

the late 1800s by French soldier Peter Pieri, the Walla Walla 

sweet onion has become a generational passion of the Locati 

family. The Locati farm in the Walla Walla Valley is now one 

of the top producers of this versatile onion. Read about this 

European connection and how to best incorporate the Walla 

Walla sweet onion in the creative dishes in our Farm to Table 

and subsequent recipes (see page 24). 

Our Design story is one of discovery. Ryan Smith and Ahna 

Holder were just looking for a shed to store their lawnmower 

and tools in a home without suitable space. The two designers 

went shopping and came home disappointed. They applied 

their skills and strewn tools and built the first incarnation 

of Modern Shed, the business that sprang up around this 

updated outdoor shed. See their cool design work on page 

28. Backyard envy! 

We can’t get through an issue without telling stories around 

Washington wine. In this issue, we let four winemakers tell us 

their journeys of how they found and fell in love with the land 

that would become the terroir of their first vintages. These 

are small tales of passion and purple hands (see page 50). 

We know that we are nothing if we lose our sense of 

exploration. We light out for Everett in Trip Planner and down 

to Bend, Oregon for our Northwest Destination. In Everett, 

on a tour of the Boeing factory, we witness the construction 

of the American and world’s commercial airline fleet. Those 

who fear flying will be edified, maybe even pacified, here. 

In Bend, the birthplace of the great outdoors, we hit trails, 

breweries and the new kayak wave built on the Deschutes as 

it runs through town. 

We hope you find a good connection with this issue of 

1889 and always value your feedback. Don’t forget to follow 

us on Facebook to enter contests for some amazing weekend 

getaways and to get inspired for your next Evergreen outing. 


1889 ONLINE 

More ways to connect with your favorite Washington content 

1889mag.com | #1889washington | @1889washington 

washington: in focus 

Have a photo that captures 

your Washington experience? 

Share it with us by filling out the 

Washington: In Focus form on 

our website. If chosen, you’ll be 

published here. 

1889mag.com/in-focus 

MORE ONLINE 

Extended Photo Gallery 

photo by Scott Miner 

An early-morning sunrise over tulip fields at the Skagit Valley Tulip 

Festival in Mount Vernon. 

digital exclusive 

Experience the sites of Bend, Oregon 

with an extended photo gallery by local 

Central Oregonian Cody Rheault. 

Writer Charyn Pfeuffer gives a first look into the Pike Place MarketFront expansion 

before its grand opening on June 29. Find out what to expect from the update to one 

of Seattle‘s oldest attractions. 

1889mag.com/bend 

1889mag.com/marketfront 


FivePineLodge.com 

Sisters, Oregon 541.549.5900 

SNEAK AWAY 

001_Ads_1889_JUNE/JULY_ 2017_IDP.indd 12 

5/26/17 5:45 PM

SAY WA? 14 

FOOD + DRINK 20 

HOME + DESIGN 24 

MIND + BODY 32 

ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 34 

pg. 28 

A backyard that combines form and function. 


say wa? 

Tidbits & To-dos 

Maryhill Concert Season 

Real Life Room Escape 

You’re trapped in a room and must figure out 

how to escape within sixty minutes. This is not 

a nightmare—it’s Puzzle Break, a room escape 

game in Seattle that tests your mental ability and 

teamwork skills. Use hidden clues to solve puzzles, 

find the key and escape before your time is up. Sign 

up in teams of twelve or fourteen, or join in on a 

public game to work with others. 

Maryhill Winery’s Goldendale Amphitheater 

is drawing several top-notch acts this 

summer, with Santana in June—sorry, it’s 

already sold out—ZZ Top and The Doobie 

Brothers in August, Goo Goo Dolls in 

September and more. Set against the 

backdrop of the Columbia River Gorge with 

Maryhill wine in hand, these warm summer 

concerts are truly a dream. 

maryhillwinery.com 

puzzlebreak.us 

mark your 

CALENDAR 

MarketFront Opening 

The beloved Pike Place Market has finally been 

expanded after forty years of planning with the 

MarketFront, opening on June 29. This addition 

to the historic area will include a public plaza 

with a viewing deck, rooftop stalls for farmers to 

sell their goods, housing, parking, bike spaces and 

public art displays. 

pikeplacemarket.org/marketfront 


say wa? 

Bella Umbrella 

Protect your skin from summer rays in style, 

with vintage-style umbrellas from Bella 

Umbrella. Found online or at the storefront 

in downtown Seattle, these classy, ultrafeminine 

umbrellas come in many varieties, 

such as paper and lace sun parasol and 

classic waterproof. Who says you can’t sing 

in the rain? 

bellaumbrella.com 

Garden Uprising 

Plant-based Ice Cream 

Vegans with a sweet tooth can now 

enjoy plant-based ice creams that taste 

and feel much like the dairy-based 

original. Frankie & Jo’s opened its first 

Capitol Hill location in November, serving 

up scoops of innovative flavors such as 

Gingerbread Golden Milk, Salty Caramel 

Ash and Brown Sugar Vanilla. To cater to 

other dietary restrictions, each flavor is 

gluten-free and served in a gluten-free 

waffle cone. 

Plant your garden this year using local, organic 

seeds from Uprising Organics in Bellingham. 

As Washington’s first Certified Organic 

seed company, Uprising sells hundreds of 

seeds (half from its farm in Bellingham and 

half from other Northwest farms), all free 

of GMOs. New to this year’s collection of 

seeds are Pastel Meadows poppies, Shinsei 

soybeans and Green Zebra tomatoes. 

uprisingorganics.com 

frankieandjos.com 


say wa? 

Justin Landis 

Musician 

Marshall McLean 

When talent outstrips 

name recognition 

written by Ben Salmon 

“YOU HAVE TO REALLY LOVE the 

idea of the unknown,” Marshall McLean 

offered, “and trust that the chemistry and 

energy of the people you’re working with 

will be what it needs to be.” 

The Spokane-based musician is 

discussing his excellent new album 

SoDak, but he could just as easily be 

talking about his career thus far. Just 

31 years old, McLean has been a steady 

presence in the Northwest music scene 

for more than a decade, packing a handful 

of full-length albums with his tuneful and 

time-worn folk rock. 

With its rich production and livedin 

feel, SoDak is McLean’s best effort 

yet. Whether it raises McLean’s profile 

remains to be seen. This is a man whose 

musical ability outstrips his name 

recognition, and that’s just fine with 

McLean, who forgoes heavy touring to 

stay home with his wife and two kids. 

“The price you pay for balance is often 

speed,” he said. “The good thing about 

taking more time is that the songs get 

to steep a bit longer, and you get to take 

more time to let the stories unfold.” 


say wa? 

Bibliophile 

Smokejumper 

Veteran smokejumper gives a unique glimpse into 

the world of airborne firefighting 


photography by Jason A. Ramos 

I MET JASON A. RAMOS last 

October, on the last day of the 2016 

smokejumper season, at the North 

Cascades Smokejumper Base, the 

birthplace of smokejumping. I’d long 

revered these brave men and women 

who serve in what Ramos calls “the 

Major League of fire service.” Imagine 

parachuting 1,500 feet into a fire in 

less than sixty seconds with 100+ 

pounds of supplies, the primary goal 

to choke it out with little more than 

hand tools. 

In his book, Smokejumper: A Memoir 

By One of America’s Most Select 

Airborne Firefighters, Ramos gives a 

glimpse into the world of airborne 

firefighters. Headed into his twentyeighth 

season as a smokejumper, he’s 

one of fewer than 500 smokejumpers 

on duty in the United States and one 

of fewer than 6,000 since 1939. 

Can you tell me a little bit about how 

your book came to be? It seems 

pretty serendipitous. 

I’d never written a book, never planned to 

write a book. I was on duty, got a phone 

call, and I didn’t answer it for days—it was 

during my work time. Days later, I asked 

my second half who Harper something 

was and they said, “Harper Collins?” I 

said, “Yeah, I think that’s it.” I listened to 

the message, then called a good friend 

and adviser. He said, “Someone’s playing 

a joke on you—Harper Collins doesn’t 

call people.” He said, “Call them back 

immediately,” so I did and they said 

they’d like to start a relationship. So we 

started a relationship and months later, at 

the end of the summer, I finally officially 

took the deal. 

What was it like working with 

ghostwriter Julian Smith? 

It’s kind of like going to buy a car—you’ve 

got to find someone you like. I wanted 

someone kind of 180 degrees different 

than me. I didn’t want someone who was 

just going to agree with me, but I wanted 

it to be right. There was this moment, I 

think it was when we nailed down the first 

chapter. I don’t even have the words for 

it. It floored me. You read it, and you’re 

just emotional—you’re like, “Holy crap, 

this is real.” And that was the weirdest 

thing, reading something about you. It’s 

you in your story, but it doesn’t really sink 

in yet. He did a great job, and I couldn’t 

have done it without him and he 

couldn’t have done it without me. 


say wa? 

We definitely had some hard days, and I 

give him the highest credit. 

What do you want readers to take 

away from your book? 

I was told in high school that I wouldn’t 

amount to nothing. As a kid, those are 

pretty big words coming from a principal 

and teachers. I wrote the book to show 

kids that are in a bad place and doing bad 

things, there is a way out. I prove it. I don’t 

have a degree. I didn’t go to college. But 

I have passion, and if you have that, you 

can succeed. Don’t stop and don’t quit— 

crawl. Literally crawl. Just keep going. 

I was told I couldn’t have a business, I 

couldn’t have a book. I couldn’t do this, I 

couldn’t do that. What I want the most is 

for someone to read my book and to have 

that responsibility for your actions and to 

do things right. 

How can people learn more 

about smokejumping? 

People can tour the North Cascades 

Smokejumper Base in Winthrop, 

Washington during the summer 

months, seven days a week. It doesn’t 

matter if the guy is off duty, he will 

give you a tour of the base. The base 

sees between 2,000 to 3,000 visitors 

each summer. 


food + drink 

Cocktail Card 

recipe courtesy of Ox & Cart in Walla Walla 

The Livin’s Easy 

1 1/2 ounces Walla Walla Distilling Co. gin, 

or similar floral-inspired gin 

¾ ounce rhubarb shrub* 

1/2 ounce Bro Vo Amaro #04 

Pour ingredients into a cocktail shaker 

over ice, shake, strain into a coupe, then 

garnish with a citrus twist. 

*To make rhubarb shrub: 

2 pounds rhubarb, chopped 1/4-inch thick 

1 cup apple cider vinegar 

1 cup granulated sugar 

Combine the rhubarb, apple cider vinegar 

and sugar in a saucepan over medium 

heat, stirring as rhubarb begins to break 

down. When it comes to a boil, reduce 

heat to low and cook until rhubarb 

is completely broken down, about 10 

minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove 

from heat, pour into a colander or fine 

mesh strainer, and discard the solids. 

Store shrub in the refrigerator. 

Beervana 

No Anchor floats to the top 

written and photographed by Jackie Dodd 

A glass of beer at No Anchor bar. 

IT WAS CONFUSING, at first—seemingly random numbers plotted 

along a graph next to the tap list at No Anchor bar in Seattle. Graciously, 

the bar-manager-owner explained what should be a fairly obvious 

representation ofhh the beers on tap that day. 

The beer list isn’t the biggest I’ve ever seen, but it is one of the best. 

Carefully curated, each tap has a story, each beer thoughtfully selected. 

Even the glassware has careful consideration behind it—each pint is poured 

into a Teku glass, widely regarded as the best “all-purpose” craft beer glass 

to complement any style. Ostensibly strange numbers on the menu also 

have a story. Rather, they tell a story and serve as a guide. The beers are 

all given a designation on the graph between esoteric and approachable, 

as well as modern and traditional. Want something rather approachable 

and traditional? Try #1. Want to dive into a pint of something esoteric and 

modern? #16 is your guy. 

Order-by-number also helps when you select an oddly named hardto-pronounce 

beer. You mean I need to pronounce that word in front of 

humans? Who have ears? What if I get it wrong? Just order by number. 

There is also the issue of the food—as the desire to order everything is 

fairly strong. The sous vide duck—that’s what I want. No, wait … the crab 

roll. Oh. But … the oyster? Consulting staff might add confusion, because 

they each love something different. It turns out, however, there’s an elegant 

solution—you can order the entire menu for $120. And damn it if it wasn’t 

worth it. 

2505 Second Ave. Suite #105 

SEATTLE 

noanchorbar.com 


CRAVINGS 

BRUNCH 

Still feeling the buzz from that 2 a.m. last call? A bagel 

or breakfast sandwich simply won’t be enough to fend 

off the sting. Head to Fonda La Catrina for a heaping 

plate of huevos and a bloody mary to hit the weekend 

reset button. Options are endless, from the traditional 

huevos rancheros to huevos ahogados with tomato 

and roasted poblano sauce and huevos con costillas 

en chile pasilla with Carlton Farms pork ribs and fried 

potatoes. This is a go-to spot for lunch and dinner too, 

with five-star ratings for tostadas and sopes. 

5905 AIRPORT WAY S. 

SEATTLE 

fondalacatrina.com 

BRATWURST 

When the desire for a big bratwurst strikes, search 

no further than the recently opened Rhein Haus 

Tacoma. Each wurst plate is served with sauerkraut, 

mashed potatoes and fresh horseradish. Choose from 

Grillwurst Schmankerl, a 2-pound sampler of every 

sausage known to mankind, the Nuremberg, six pork 

sausages seasoned with black pepper in lamb casings, 

the Habanero Cheddarwurst with Beecher’s cheddar 

or the Rhein Brat with Applewood-smoked bacon and 

caramelized onions. 

649 DIVISION AVE. 

TACOMA 

rheinhaustacoma.com 

Gastronomy 

Yellow Church Cafe 

written by Julie Lee 

BUILT IN 1923, THIS CONVERTED CHURCH is a dining sanctuary 

worth singing about. The Yellow Church Cafe in Ellensburg is an 

Eastern Washington treasure that bakes bread daily, hand cuts locally 

sourced meats and serves homestyle meals all day. For a marriage 

of traditional breakfast waffle and favorite dessert, try the bananas 

foster waffle with banana-rum caramel sauce. For the extra hungry, 

the manastash corned beef hash with slow-braised corned beef and 

potatoes, eggs and biscuits will fuel the tank for twenty-four hours. 

Lunch offerings include a collection of small plates, salads, sandwiches 

and burgers, including a half-pound bison burger or steak beef burger. 

Dinner is where The Yellow Church shines with herb-crusted rack of 

lamb, Idaho red trout and a bone-in Snake River Farms pork shank. As 

its motto goes, “welcome to our little slice of heaven.” 

111 S. PEARL ST 

ELLENSBURG 

theyellowchurchcafe.com 

Yellow Church Cafe’s spicy shrimp dish. 

LAMB 

For those who love a flavorful lamb dish, Saffron 

Mediterranean Kitchen in Walla Walla is a peerless 

foodie destination. This petite restaurant is a locally 

beloved pearl that’s garnered national love as well as 

James Beard Foundation semi-finalist nominations 

for best chef NW six years in a row. Kibbeh Nayee, 

a ground lamb and beef tartar, is a crave-satisfying 

start. Lahmachun, a razor-thin Turkish flatbread with 

spiced lamb is a terrific shared plate, but save room 

for the lamb tagine: lamb shoulder with medjool 

dates and hand-rolled couscous. Reservations are not 

only recommended but necessary to experience the 

ambition of this buzz-worthy wine country anchor. 

125 W. ALDER ST. 

WALLA WALLA 

saffronmediterraneankitchen.com 

SANDWICHES 

When in Tacoma, don’t miss 1022 South J to grab a 

sandwich. It’s a small victory to find a great po’boy 

in nearly any town, and 1022 South J has perfected 

one with choices to boot—shrimp or oyster, fried or 

blackened, with slaw and spicy aioli. The 1022 grilled 

cheese should be in the grilled cheese hall of fame— 

emmentaler, Gorgonzola, aged white cheddar and sage 

derby with a sun-dried tomato aioli. The beet burger is 

something to pay attention to as well, with cambezola, 

arugula and cucumber relish. With items priced at just 

$10, we suggest working your way down the list. 

1022 SOUTH J ST. 

TACOMA 

1022southj.com

food + drink 

BEST PLACES FOR 

DINERS 

FRANK’S DINER 

Frank’s Diner is where you go when you want a hearty, 

grandma-style meal in a feel-good atmosphere. 

Gargantuan portions match the enormous menu, 

with every imaginable combination of eggs and meats 

begging to be ordered for breakfast. Lunch options are 

hamburgers piled high and grilled meatloaf sandwiches, 

and the call for dinner is turkey pot pie or pepper steak. 

This is a tight-quarters, rub-elbows-with-your-neighbor 

Spokane rail car serving locals and passers-by since 1906. 

1516 West 2nd Ave. 

SPOKANE 

franksdiners.com 

59ER DINER 

Feeling nostalgic for a 1950’s-style diner? 59er Diner is a 

swing back in time, where a robust breakfast is served 

all day with farm fresh eggs from on-site chickens and 

old-fashioned comfort food like homemade meatloaf, 

chicken-fried steak, two-napkin burgers and spaghetti 

and meatballs are plated up high for dinner. Thanksgiving 

is year round here, with a fresh-baked full turkey, mashed 

potatoes, stuffing, housemade gravy and cranberry sauce 

front and center on the menu. 

2 locations: 

Wenatchee National Forest 

15361 US-2 

LEAVENWORTH 

Apple Annie’s Antique Mall 

200 Apple Annie Ave 

CASHMERE 

59erdiner.com 

LIL’ JON 

For those who love an authentic, rustic diner, Lil’ Jon 

Restaurant in Bellevue is a gold mine. Weekly dinner 

specials inspire nightly visits: pot roast Mondays, meatloaf 

on Wednesdays, fried chicken on Thursdays—each filling 

plate of homestyle cooking just $11.95. Hot sandwiches 

here are specialties—from the Yankee dip, a half-pound 

of ground sirloin served with au jus, to the open-face hot 

roast beef or turkey sandwich smothered in gravy with a 

heavy side of mashed potatoes. 

3080 148th Ave. SE 

BELLEVUE 

liljonrestaurant.com 

VILLAGE SQUARE CAFE 

A quaint breakfast and lunch spot in Redmond, Village 

Square Cafe is as cozy as it gets. Comfort food is served 

counter-style with endless smiles and bottomless cups 

of coffee. Four-egg omelettes fill the plate, and the slowroasted 

corned beef brisket hash is a breakfast specialty. 

Whatever you do, get or split the scratch-made cinnamon 

roll with melted cream cheese frosting. The monte cristo 

or reuben is great for lunch. 

Dining 

T Maccarone’s 


T Maccarone’s beet salad is made with homemade riccotta, citrus segments, mixed greens, 

arugula, candied walnuts with a champagne vinaigrette topped with aleppo pepper. 

IN THE HEART OF one of the finest wine regions in the country is a timetested 

gem. T Maccarone’s is the incarnation of Tom Maccarone’s culinary 

curiosity, which festooned into a career. Maccarone grew up in Walla Walla 

working in his parents’ restaurant from an early age. Throughout a retail career 

at Nordstrom and then as a buyer for Eddie Bauer, the fire to own his own 

restaurant some day burned hot. He kept a notebook of menu and business 

ideas in case the opportunity arose. One day destiny knocked, and within three 

months, T Maccarone’s opened in 2005. Drawing from the bounty of local 

produce, foraged Northwest mushrooms and meats from regional neighbors, 

each dish is a choreographed dance of flavors. A delightful start is Penn Cove 

mussels with green curry or T. Mac & Cheese with white truffle oil. The pear 

salad with white truffle vinaigrette is a fresh, light palate cleanser before diving 

into the exquisite main entrees, such as beef tenderloin with blue cheese butter, 

pappardelle alla Bolognese or Tagliatelle Italiano with housemade sausage and 

pasta. What makes this place so special, though, is the incredible staff and 

people, starting with Maccarone, who often visits with guests each evening. 

4 N. Colville St. 

WALLA WALLA 

tmaccarones.com 

16150 NE 85th St. #104 

REDMOND 

villagesquare.cafesinc.com

CenturyLink Field Event Center 

seattleartfair.com

home + design 

Farm to Table 

An Onion History 

Peeling back the layers of the 

Walla Walla sweet onion 

written by Corinne Whiting 

photography by Greg Lehman 

"In our opinion, there is 

no better way to 

represent our town and 

surrounding areas..." 

— Grant Hinderliter 


home + design 

FOR THOSE IN THE KNOW, 

Walla Walla is synonymous with 

two palate-pleasing products: wine, 

of course, and sweet onions. Not 

as many people realize, however, 

that the Walla Walla sweet onion 

is Washington’s official vegetable. 

This gem’s mild taste doesn’t 

come from sugar, but its low sulfur 

content (half that of an ordinary 

yellow onion). It is also cholesteroland 

sodium-free plus full of vitamin C. For more than a century, 

the industrious Locati family has devoted its livelihood to this 

regional treasure. 

In the southeastern corner of the state and set at the foot of the 

Blue Mountains, Walla Walla—a Native American word meaning 

“many waters”—has rich history, abundant natural beauty and an 

alluring Wild West-meets-chic-culinary culture. Thanks to the 

region’s many trees and moderate climate, Walla Walla sweet 

onions have survived since the late 1800s, when French soldier 

Peter Pieri first brought a seed from Corsica, Italy. 

At a time when Italian immigrants made up the core of Walla 

Walla’s gardening industry, Pieri and his neighbors planted the 

seed and were impressed by the new onion’s winter hardiness. 

One of Pieri’s employees—Joe Locati, the grandfather of today's 

owner, Michael Locati—arrived in the Walla Walla Valley in 1905 

from Milan. Not knowing he was launching a successful business 

empire, Joe started his own farm in 1909. Over many decades 

and several generations, the “French” onion developed through 

the process of meticulous hand selection of each year’s crop, 

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT A close view of onions ripe for harvest. Michael Locati walks 

the rows of his onion farm. Michael Locati inspects onions with his son, Pete Locati. 

ultimately ensuring extraordinary sweetness, a larger size and a 

distinctive shape. 

By the 1940s, Joe's sons, Ambrose and Pete, took over their 

father's farm, making history by opening the valley’s first onionpacking 

shed in 1949. “Everyone else started to follow along,” 

said Michael Locati, who today carries on the family legacy as a 

grower, packer and shipper. 

While the original varieties passed down from his grandfather 

remain, innovations improve each year’s product. Important 

milestones include when Walla Walla Onion growers united in 

1995 to form Federal Marketing Order No. 956 to protect their 

popular industry; this established a designated production area 

and regulates what can be legitimately marketed as “Walla Walla 

Sweet Onions.” In 2003, Locati and two partners developed 

Walla Walla River Packing and Storage, a state-ofthe-art 

onion curing and packing facility. Locati said 

this allows them to regulate such crucial factors as 

temperature, humidity and airflow. 


home + design 

Onion harvesters gather ripe onions. 

Each harvest begins in mid-June and continues until mid- 

August; the Locati Farms website offers online orders from May 

through mid-August (or until sold out). Locati said his family’s 

industry continues to thrive thanks to a fortunate “three-pronged 

situation.” First, he credits the variety, adapted from those initial 

seeds. Today that translates to “no breeding, no GMOs … what we 

have is an heirloom variety,” he explained. Second, Locati applauds 

Walla Walla’s soil and climate, which he calls “very conducive” to 

successfully growing this crop. Lastly, his team has worked hard 

to find the best fertilizers and uses 

as few pesticides as possible. 

Locally grown onions steal the 

show at Walla Walla’s seasonal 

downtown farmers market and 

at the 33rd Sweet Onion Festival, 

which returns June 17. During this 

festive event marked by delectable 

dishes, live music and familyfriendly 

fun, the community 

celebrates its state vegetable 

with whimsical games like sweet 

onion sack races and the “bald as 

an onion” contest. Who ever said 

vegetables can’t be fun? 

In addition to selective grocery 

stores and eateries around the state, Locati sources to Walla 

Walla restaurants such as Whitehouse-Crawford, Brasserie 

Four and The Marc, The Marcus Whitman’s restaurant. Grant 

Hinderliter, executive chef of The Marc Restaurant, relishes 

using Walla Walla sweets from the Locatis because “they’ve been 

growing onions and farming the valley for three generations … 

and can offer great historical perspective and knowledge.” 

Hinderliter takes a broad perspective of the sweet onion, 

preparing them as sweet onion ice cream or simply caramelizing 

the veggies. In spring, the kitchen uses Walla Walla sweets that haven’t yet 

finished growing, called “spring onions.” With tender and edible stalks still 

attached, the onions get split and grilled. The team insists they’re delightful 

when braised in butter or served alongside seafood. One of Hinderliter’s 

favorite in-season tricks involves 

creating a sweet onion and 

“Walla Walla sweet onions 

are a favorite for many chefs 

across the country when it 

comes to selecting an onion 

with a consistent, sweet flavor.” 

balsamic jam, allowing the 

sweetness of the onion to 

complement the acidity 

of the vinegars. “In our 

opinion, there is no better 

way to represent our town 

and surrounding area,” 

Hinderliter said. 

“Walla Walla sweet onions 

are a favorite for many chefs 

across the country when it 

comes to selecting an onion 

with a consistent, sweet 

flavor,” said chef David 

Buchanan of Tulalip Resort Casino’s Blackfish Wild Salmon Grill. 

“It adds that little something extra to the recipe and helps to 

bump up the flavor and complexity of the dish.” 

—Chef David Buchanan of Tulalip Resort 

Casino’s Blackfish Wild Salmon Grill 


Washington Recipes 

Walla Walla 

Sweet Onions 

Grilled Sockeye Salmon with Cheesy 

Walla Walla Onion with Scalloped Potatoes 

TULALIP / Blackfish Wild Salmon Grill 

David Buchanan 

SERVES 8 

16 ounces sharp cheddar cheese, shredded 

10 ounces Havarti cheese, shredded 

8 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 32 pieces 

1 cup Walla Walla Sweet Onions, thin julienne 

1 bay leaf 

1 ⅛ teaspoon salt 

¾ teaspoon white pepper 

¾ tablespoon fresh garlic, minced 

1 cup heavy cream 

6 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, sliced ⅛ inch thick 

8 7-ounce Sockeye salmon filets, skin off, pin bones 

removed and prepared using your favorite method 

Preheat oven to 375 degrees and line a 9-inch x 13-inch 

standard size cake pan with parchment paper. Slice potatoes 

using a mandolin or other vegetable slicer. Store sliced 

potatoes submerged in cold water until ready to assemble. 

In a large bowl, gently combine both cheeses by hand. Divide 

the cheese mixture into four approximately equal portions. 

Set aside. 

Combine heavy cream, bay leaves, salt, white pepper and 

garlic in a thick-bottomed saucepan. Place over medium 

heat and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer (about 

180 degrees) for 5 minutes. Remove and discard bay leaves. 

Drain potato slices and lightly dry them with paper towel 

or lint-free towel. Arrange a single layer of potatoes in the 

bottom of the pan, overlapping them in a domino fashion. 

Over the potato slices, evenly distribute 1/4 cup of Walla 

Walla sweet onions and 8 pieces of butter. Sprinkle with 

one of the cheese portions and finish by drizzling 1/4 cup of 

cream mixture on top. Repeat the layering process until you 

have a total of four layers. 

Place a layer of parchment over the top of the potatoes 

and cover tightly with aluminum foil. Bake at 375 degrees 

for about 90 minutes. Cautiously remove from oven and 

pull back the foil. Test cooked potatoes with a toothpick. If it 

goes through the center easily the dish is done. If not, cover 

and return to oven until done. Let the potatoes rest for 15 

minutes before serving. 

Walla Walla Sweet Onion 

Saffron Risotto 

WALLA WALLA / The Marc Restaurant 

Grant Hinderliter 

4 ½ cups chicken stock 

½ cup white wine 

1 pinch saffron (1 sachet) 

6 tablespoons butter 

1 Walla Walla sweet onion, finely 

chopped 

1 ½ cups Arborio rice 

1 cup grated parmesan cheese (not 

the stuff from the can!) 

Salt and pepper to taste 

2 lemons, halved 

Bring the stock to a boil, then reduce to a low 

simmer. Ladle a small amount of stock into a 

small bowl. Add the saffron threads or powder 

to the small bowl of stock and leave to infuse. 

Walla Walla Sweet Onion saffron risotto is paired with salmon. 

Melt 4 tablespoons of butter in a large 

saucepan until foaming. Add the onion and 

cook gently for about 3 minutes, stirring 

frequently, until softened. Add the rice. Stir until 

grains start to swell and burst, then add a few 

ladles of the stock, with the saffron liquid, and 

salt and pepper to taste. Stir over low heat until 

the stock is absorbed. Continue adding the 

remaining stock, a few ladles at a time, allowing 

the rice to absorb all the liquid before adding 

more, and stirring constantly. 

After 20-25 minutes, the rice should be al 

dente and the risotto golden yellow, moist and 

creamy. Add in white wine and reduce until 

cooked out. Gently stir in about two-thirds of 

the parmesan and the rest of the butter. Heat 

through until the butter has melted, then taste 

for seasoning. Finish with a squeeze of fresh 

lemon. Transfer the risotto to a warmed serving 

bowl or platter and serve immediately, with the 

remaining parmesan sprinkled on top. 



home + design 

Backyard Bliss 

A pair of architects double their living 

space with a skillful backyard remodel 

written by Melissa Dalton 

YEARS AGO, RYAN SMITH AND AHNA HOLDER just needed 

somewhere to store their lawnmower. The Seattle-based couple 

bought a 1947 ranch in the Laurel Vista neighborhood in 1998. 

Although the house had been advertised as a tear-down, the pair, 

then co-owners of a design and build business called Grey Design 

Studio, were slowly and steadily renovating it, doing all the hard 

labor themselves. With no basement, garage or attic available to 

stash their tools, however, they needed a storage shed. 

On a trip to the store, Holder was dismayed by the design of the 

available models. "She said, 'We went to architecture school. We 

can do better than this,'" Smith recalled. They left the store emptyhanded 

and Smith set about drawing and building something 

more to their taste. "It was just a very simple structure," he said. "It 

had a single door and this tilted roof that was open so I could store 

gas cans and such." Their design quickly attracted attention from 

clients, as well as Sunset Magazine, and requests came pouring in 

for plans and commissions. In 2005, the couple launched Modern 

Shed, a line of customizable, pre-fab outbuildings based on that 

first model, which are now sold nationwide. 

The couple is often up for a creative venture. "We always have a 

project every year," Smith said. In 2014, their backyard provided 

the next outlet, where a dense wall of foliage sandwiched a barebones 

concrete patio against the back of the house. "Everything 

was overgrown and you couldn't see past the hedge," Smith said. 

Behind it, the yard sloped away in an expanse of grass that was 

never really used. "We didn't really have a reason to go down into 

the yard," he said. "It just wasn't useful." 

Their challenge was to break down the hillside and maximize 

the yard's potential. To start, he and Holder applied the process 

they once used for planning houses. "It was our only tool since 

landscaping was new to us," Smith said. "All of a sudden 

the yard made sense to have all these rooms." They divided 

Homeowners Ryan Smith and Ahna Holder built a shed for storage. 

The shed was so popular the couple launched a business making similar models. 


home + design 

the sizeable lot into a living room, kitchen, dining room 

and additional sitting room. A combination of Zometek 

composite bamboo decking and pre-cast concrete pavers 

define the separate areas while a succession of terraced 

garden beds, walkways and steps connect them. This allows 

foot traffic to flow easily between the different zones and 

transforms every inch of the once awkward slope into 

functional space. 

Now, there's a lounge area adjacent to the house, complete 

with sofa and chairs. It's protected by a covered pergola, 

which has circular overhead lights fabricated by LightArt. 

A modern outdoor kitchen composed of stainless steel and 

cedar sits nearby. The design goal, Smith said, was to craft 

the antithesis of the "Tuscan-inspired" outdoor kitchen that 

can take up a lot of space. The streamlined sink, grill and 

countertop make summer meal prep—and cleanup—easier. 

"One of the criteria was that you could pressure-wash it," 

Smith said. Steps away is the "dining room," accented by a 

long buffet counter and built-in pizza oven. On the lower 

level, Loll chairs form a circle around a simple fire pit. 

The focal point for the yard is a 120-square-foot Modern 

Shed in a far corner. For its facade, the pair chose a bright 

cherry red. "Why not just make it fun and colorful?” Smith 

asked. “I always like those red and yellows and oranges 

anyway, especially in this climate." The color contrasts 

nicely with the charcoal exterior of the main house and is 

repeated in accents throughout the yard. It's also the basis 

for the burgundy, chocolate and chartreuse color palette in 

the plantings, as selected by landscape designer Courtney 

Olander. Having done all the hardscaping themselves, they 

sought Olander's horticultural expertise to knit the scheme 

together with plantings. 

Olander wove plants in a "naturalistic texture" yet 

maintained a contemporary feel. She softened the hard 

angles of COR-TEN steel beds with draping succulents, 

mounding grasses and sprightly bunches of chocolate 

cosmos. She ensured year-round interest with evergreens, as 

well as shrubs and trees with an attractive branch structure 

and bark pattern. Clusters of artful containers dot the 

tableau. They provide low-lying vignettes that don't chop up 

the landscape and can be appreciated from multiple vantage 

points, both inside the house and from the various outdoor 

"rooms." "I put them in places where they can be seen yearround," 

Olander said. 

The main house has an unusual orientation on its lot: its 

side, rather than the front door, faces the street. "We wanted 

to fake a front door without having to change the house," 

Smith said. A new door would have required expensive 

remodeling. The team, instead, installed a custom garden 

gate composed of a red translucent polycarbonate panel 

and cedar. It's flanked by additional steel planting beds and 

displays the house numbers and a remote doorbell. Not only 

does the setup screen the backyard from the sidewalk for 

increased privacy, it functions as a more obvious formal 

entry to the house and property. "The pizza guy went there, 

so it works," Smith said. 

Today, the yard makes the house feel much bigger, Smith 

said. "It's been transformative." 

FROM TOP A lounge area with a covered pergola. A view of the house from 

the fire pit. Chairs surround a fire pit on the lower level of the yard. 


CONT 

NTAINER 

GARDENIN 

G 

101 

1. Choose a container 

Containers come in a wide variety of sizes and styles. Taller options will 

be seen from farther away, creating a "destination point" in the yard, 

Olander said. Clusters of various-sized vessels lend a collected feel. 

Olander considers the home's existing architecture in her selection, as 

she likes for the container design to mesh with the style of the home. 

2. Start with a foundation plant, then add texture 

"Having a good foundation of foliage is important," Olander 

said. "Don't only think about the flowers." She likes to 

structure a container's plantings around a strong base, such 

as an evergreen or a bold-leafed specimen, then weave in 

plants with contrasting textures or eye-catching blooms 

for a layered effect. 

3. Pare down color 

For a cohesive look, Olander minimizes the colors she incorporates. To 

do so, she works off the color wheel, often combining plants with either 

analogous or complementary colors. "I like to simplify it one way or 

the other, keeping the palette to a minimum," she said. She also thinks 

about "color echoes." For instance, "If there's a burgundy vein in a leaf, 

I'm going to try to pick up on that burgundy with the flowers," she said. 

4. Don't forget fragrance 

Herbs such as lavender and rosemary make excellent 

candidates, as does the evergreen Star Jasmine and the 

chocolate cosmos that Olander planted in the Smith and 

Holder yard. (The latter has a chocolate scent!) 


home + design 

Outdoor Luxuries 

Modern Products for Outdoor Living 

This year, Modern Shed 

debuts its customizable 

outdoor kitchen line, based 

on the model at Smith 

and Holder's home. It has 

a modular construction, 

meaning customers can 

pick the components for a 

configuration that suits their 

needs. Available in wood, 

granite and stainless steel, its 

streamlined silhouette adds 

chic function to your basic 

outdoor cooking routine. 

Stay warm when the sun 

goes down with a DeZen 

COR-TEN Steel Firepit from 

the Texas-based company 

bentintoshape. Its geometric 

shape will create a sharp 

profile on your patio, while 

the steel develops a rusty 

patina if left to the elements 

over time. Available in 

wood-and gasburning 

configurations. 

bentintoshape.net 

modernshed.com 

Kick back and relax in style 

with a Lollygagger Outdoor 

Lounge Chair from Loll 

Designs. It's a modern take 

on the classic Adirondack, 

offered in eleven fun colors 

and made of recycled plastic 

for easy maintenance. A 

stainless steel bottle opener 

integrated under the right 

arm inspires the ultimate 

laze about. 

lolldesigns.com 


mind + body 

For Love of the Game 

Seattle Reign FC’s Lauren Barnes has 

some serious soccer dedication 

written by Sheila G. Miller 

Courtesy Seattle Reign FC 


Lauren Barnes was the NWSL’s Defensive Player of the Year.

mind + body 

SEATTLE REIGN FC’S Lauren Barnes never 

seems to stop. When she’s not suiting up at 

Memorial Stadium for the Reign, she’s across 

the world playing, improving and coaching 

her brand of stifling, physical defense. 

Barnes was the National Women’s Soccer 

League’s defender of the year in 2016. The 

NWSL is a ten-team league that launched 

in 2013 after the U.S. Women’s Soccer 

team won the Olympic 

gold medal in 2012. 

The existing Women’s 

Professional Soccer 

folded that same year 

after two seasons. 

In the off-season, 

many teams have 

players follow training 

programs. For Barnes, 

27, it’s not hard. 

For the past three 

years, she’s played in 

Australia’s W-League 

for Melbourne City. The 

league is three months 

long and fits well with 

the NWSL’s off-season. 

“I think game fitness is 

one of the hardest things 

to gain back, unless 

you’re actually playing 

games,” she said. “That’s why we play a lot 

of eleven v. eleven during the preseason. It 

allows us to switch positions, try different 

systems. It helps us get fitness.” 

A four-year starter at UCLA, Barnes has 

played professionally and internationally 

(Barnes played for the United States national 

team at the U-15, U-20 and U-23 levels and 

was briefly called up to the national team 

in 2016) soccer can lose its luster. “It’s a 

rollercoaster, for sure,” Barnes said. “You love 

it one day, and you hate it the next. But it’s 

still one of the best jobs in the world. I get 

to say fit and hang out with my best friends 

and be competitive. There’s nothing more I 

could ask for.” 

Barnes and her teammates practice every 

day save one. Twice a week they double up 

with a weight training. On a typical day, 

players arrive for practice at 9:45 a.m. and 

leave around 1 p.m. The routine is the same 

when she’s playing in Australia. 

On her days off, Barnes does yoga or 

swims. “I love to swim because it’s not 

impact. It feels good on the body, particularly 

the joints,” she said. “Playing on turf and 

running, soccer is more physical than people 

actually realize. You can really get beat up, so 

swimming is like getting therapy. It’s a little 

bit of cardio and a little 

bit of relaxation.” 

She and her 

“You love it one 

day, and you 

hate it the next. 

But it’s still one 

of the best jobs 

in the world.” 

—Lauren Barnes 

teammates recently 

started doing Pilates. 

“It’s one of the hardest 

things I’ve ever done,” 

Barnes said, laughing. 

“It’s so, so different 

from what I’m used to, 

but I’m loving it.” 

Along with 

teammates Elli Reed 

and Beverly Yanez, 

Barnes started a vegan 

diet about two years 

ago. At first it was 

challenging, she said. 

And while being a 

vegan can be difficult, 

Barnes and her 

teammates indulge. 

“We are burning so many calories, and we 

really enjoy food,” she said. 

Barnes sees herself staying in soccer in 

some capacity over her career. Feeling 

burned out in 2012, Barnes took a year to 

coach at UC-Riverside. “That helped me 

check that off,” she said. “I don’t want to be a 

coach. It’s not for everybody.” 

Instead, she enjoys independent, one-onone 

coaching for its personal connection 

and improvement over time. More than 

anything, Barnes wants to keep playing as 

long as she can. 

“Our lifestyles are different than just a 

normal routine life,” she said. “There are a lot 

of sacrifices you have to make and a lot of 

pain you have to push your body through. … 

We put our bodies on the line every day for, 

financially, not much in return.” 

Lauren Barnes 

Professional Athlete 

Age: 27 

Born: Arcadia, California 

Residence: Southern California 

WORKOUT 

In season, Barnes and the rest 

of the Reign practice six days a 

week -two of those days they 

also do weight training. 

• 10 minutes of pre-activation 

• 10-15 minutes of active warmup 

• 10 minutes passing patterns 

• 15-20 minutes of 9 v. 9 games 

• 30 minutes of full-sided games 

• Weights (four sets of 

four with high weight—the 

objective is strength) 

• trap bar 

• deadlift 

• Nordic hamstring curls 

• calf raises 

• hip thrusts 

• step ups 

NUTRITION 

Barnes has been vegan for 

about two years. Her favorite 

foods include: 

• pancakes 

• french fries 

• teammate Elli Reed’s salads 

INSPIRATIONS 

Jess Fishlock, a Welsh midfielder 

who plays for the Seattle Reign, 

Melbourne City and the Welsh 

national team. “I’ve never seen 

someone carry herself so well on 

and off the field.” 


artist in residence 

History On Our Walls 

Great Depression era murals stilll shine 

written by Beau Eastes 

34 1889 WASHINGTONS’S MAGAZINE JUNE | JULY 2017

TUCKED IN NOOKSACK VALLEY just 

5 miles south of the Canada border, Lynden 

is full of surprises for any adventurous 

wanderer willing to get off the beaten trail. 

Lose yourself in the shelves of Village 

Books, downtown’s enchanting three-story 

bookstore, or spend the evening drinking 

to a good cause at Overflow Taps. Check 

out the towering “Three Ages of Phoebe 

Goodell Judson” mural at the Lynden 

post office, one of the Pacific Northwest’s 

most vivid examples of art commissioned 

during the Great Depression by the federal 

government to beautify public buildings 

and provide relief for out-of-work artists. 

Treasures Hidden in Plain Sight 

Scattered throughout rural Washington 

in non-descript post offices, courthouses 

and libraries is a treasure trove of fine art 

created by some of America’s top artists of 

the twentieth century. 

Products of the Treasury Department’s 

Section of Painting and Sculpture division, 

which operated between 1934 and 1943— 

not the Works Progress Administration, 

which was responsible for constructing 

post offices, courthouses and libraries— 

these murals and wood reliefs were part of 

a nationwide effort by the U.S. government 

to provide art for the people. 

The program was incredibly effective, 

as more than 1,100 murals and 300 

sculptures were completed and displayed 

throughout the country. In Washington 

alone, eighteen post offices from all across 

the state—from Colville to Clarkston 

to Camas and everywhere between— 

received murals, including Lynden. 

While most of the murals in 

Washington depict historical scenes of 

local importance—the Bremerton mural 

highlights the logging industry while the 

Anacortes painting pays tribute to halibut 

fishing—none captures the triumph of 

an individual like “Three Ages of Phoebe 

Goodell Judson.” 

Painted by Mordi Gassner, a two-time 

Guggenheim grant winner who studied 

at Galleria dell’ Accademia in Florence, 

“Three Ages” is a glowing tribute to Phoebe 

Goodell Judson, the first non-Native 

American woman to live in Lynden. The 

mural portrays her arrival in the Nooksack 

Valley in 1870, her contemplative middle 

years and the fruits of her and her fellow 

settlers’ labor. 

This is a white, Protestant perspective 

of the history of northwest Washington 

from a Jewish New York City painter 

who studied in Italy and admired the 

works of Mexican muralist Diego 

Rivera. Gassner had little control over 

the subject matter as the Lynden project 

committee not only chose the theme 

for the mural, but the name as well. It’s 

one of the more fascinating pieces in 

Washington—completed in 1942, it’s 

still hanging in the Lynden post office— 

but hardly the only one. 

The Saga of Wenatchee 

For art adventurers seeking a piece that’s 

impressive for its sheer magnitude, head 

to Chelan County for the epic “The Saga 

of Wenatchee” at the Wenatchee Valley 

Museum in Wenatchee. Painted by 

Tacoma artist Peggy Strong, who won a 

statewide contest for the right to create 

the piece, “The Saga” imagines what life 

was like in the Wenatchee Valley for its 

first white residents—over an entire wall. 

Strong, who was paralyzed from the 

waist down at 21 after a car accident, 

painted “The Saga” with the help of a 

motorized scaffolding device that her 

father built. She went on to paint other 

murals, including one in Tacoma’s Union 

Station, before dying at the age of 44 in 

1956. A recent reexamination of her work 

led to a retrospective show at the Cascadia 

Art Museum in Edmonds this past winter. 

Still Public, Still Captivating 

Most of the pieces in Washington and 

their creators have stories worth learning. 

In Clarkston, Donlon McGovern’s 

“Lewis and Clark” wood sculpture was 

forgotten even before it was displayed. 

McGovern and his wife visited the 

Clarkston post office sometime in the 

1960s and asked about the piece. It had 

been sitting in the building’s basement 

for twenty years. A man of many talents, 

McGovern later went on to become a 

design engineer for NASA’s Apollo Project. 

A former Russian soldier, Jacob Elshin, 

painted murals in Renton and Seattle’s 

University District, and David McCosh, 

who would go on to become a legendary 

artist in residence 

art teacher at University of Oregon, 

painted a Lewis and Clark mural in Kelso. 

If you needed an excuse to explore 

the less-visited areas of the state, here 

it is. Most of Washington’s post office 

art commissioned by the Treasury 

Department is in its original location and 

open to the public, whether the building 

is serving as a post office or not. The next 

time you go through Anacortes or Kelso or 

Kent, take a minute to swing by an old post 

office and soak up a piece of Washington 

state history. 

There are eighteen Great Depressionera 

murals around Washington. In 

addition to those in Wenatchee and 

Lynden, here’s a few more post office 

murals for you to check out. For the full 

list, go to 1889mag.com. 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

1 

3 

4 

5 

Bremerton: 

“Northwest Logging” 

- Ernest Norling 

Clarkston: 

“Lewis and Clark” 

wood relief. 

- Donlon P. McGovern 

Anacortes: 

“Halibut Fishing” 

- Kenneth Callahan 

Mount Vernon 

(at Skagit Valley College): 

“Local Pursuits” 

- Ambrose Patterson 

Toppenish: “Local Theme” 

- Andrew McDuffie Vincent 

2 

TOP The mural “Three Ages of Phoebe Goodell Judson,” painted by Mordi Gassner. “The 

Saga of Wenatchee” mural, painted by Peggy Strong, at the Wenatchee Valley Museum. 


Dean Hare 

STARTUP 38 

WHAT’S GOING UP 40 

WHAT I’M WORKING ON 41 

MY WORKSPACE 42 

GAME CHANGER 43 

pg. 42 

Working at Washington State University’s bear research center is a hands-on job.

startup 

The Wonder of a Worldwide Treasure Hunt 

Groundspeak marries technology with an unlikely partner—the outdoors 

written by Isaac Peterson 

SEATTLE-BASED GROUNDSPEAK is a global technology 

company that orchestrates a worldwide treasure hunt 

called geocaching. 

Geocaching works like a game of hide-and-seek, where 

someone hides a box, then enters that spot’s coordinates (latitude 

and longitude) along with a brief description on geocaching.com. 

These GPS coordinates are searchable on the site and appear as a 

location pin on the geocaching app. Other geocachers can look for 

the box, and when they do, they sign the logbook and replace it in 

the same hiding place, then post a written log of their experience 

on geocaching.com. The global game is coordinated through the 

company’s website and through its geocaching mobile applications 

(iOS and Android). 

Users of the site build their profiles and use it to network and to 

keep score. The site serves as a global leaderboard as well as a hub of 

the international community. 

Geocache containers can be anything. The achievement of the game is the record of discovery. 

Founded in 2000 by Jeremy Irish, Bryan Roth and Elias Alvord, 

Groundspeak founders believe the world is a better place with 

geocaching. “There are almost three million geocaches worldwide 

and, last year, we received almost 80 million geocache logs,” Roth 

said. “We often say that geocaching is the biggest secret hobby in the 

world, but it’s becoming less of a secret day by day.” 

Groundspeak is constantly popping up on “best places to work” 

lists, especially for outdoor enthusiasts. It now has seventy-five 

employees who enjoy a healthy host of benefits, such as stock 

options, almost a full month off every year, maternity and even 

paternity leave, and 100 percent medical, dental and vision plans. 

The company’s revenue comes from its “freemium” membership 

service—everyone can play and the app is free, but premium 

members unlock advanced features including an ecosystem of thirdparty 

applications for $30 per year. With thousands of premium 


startup 

ABOVE Groundspeak’s geocaching app for IOS and 

Android guides geocachers to hidden treasures. 

LEFT The geocaching.com shop features numerous 

geocaching containers, some disguised as other objects. 

members around the world, Groundspeak continues to build a 

strong financial base. 

“Our plans for growth include new mobile and web-based 

geocaching feature development as well as global community 

engagement and marketing initiatives.” Roth said, “We have some 

ideas for what comes next but, of course, we’re going to keep them 

under wraps until they are ready for release.” 

The game mechanics are fairly simple, but they allow for infinite 

possibility. There are no rules. The geocache could contain anything 

and be hidden anywhere. It might be a magnetic box attached to 

a street sign, or message hidden inside a fake rock. Groundspeak 

manufactures geocache containers, which look like weather-proof 

Tupperware emblazoned with the green geocaching logo, alongside 

so-called “devious” containers, which look like bricks, pinecones, 

golf balls and metal bolts. There’s even a magnetic container that 

looks like a piece of used chewing gum. 

“Geocachers can be extremely creative,” Roth said. “I found a 

cache near Munich, Germany last year containing a code word that 

unlocked the trunk of a nearby vehicle. When I opened the trunk, 

there was a full pirate-themed scene with fake doubloons, a fake 

parrot and much more. It was really amazing!” 

For many, technological advancement seems to come at the cost 

of social isolation. The growth of social networks and smartphone 

technology means more screen time and less time participating in 

the real world. Geocaching reverses that dynamic and reveals new 

possibilities for information technology: it can become a tool for 

greater engagement with our world and each other. In a 

society where digital interaction is the default and IRL (in real 

life) has become a necessary clarification, Groundspeak’s mission 

seems more strategic. 

“Unlike most technology where folks are staring at screens, 

geocaching leverages technology to inspire outdoor play,” Roth 

said. “Additionally, when geocachers begin to engage with the 

local community, they can create tremendous bonds of 

friendship and camaraderie by geocaching together or attending 

geocaching events.” 

There is an innate sense of childhood exploration to geocaching. I 

recently took my 6-year-old daughter to look for a geocache hidden 

in the park near our house. I watched her eyes widen as I explained 

to her that there were treasures hidden all over the world, and that I 

had a map to them on my phone. 

“Like in Legend of Zelda?” she asked, as we discovered the 

container underneath a boulder. It was the perfect antidote to screen 

time, to which she’s already grown accustomed. There was true 

astonishment in her voice as she realized the real world could be as 

magical as a video game. 

“Geocaching does create a feeling of wonder for participants,” Roth 

mused. “It’s been particularly effective at bringing families together 

and getting the kids outside and away from their televisions and 

game systems. We believe that playing outside is really important for 

everyone and we consider ourselves to be fortunate to be involved in 

this game and the worldwide geocaching community.” 

Roth offered many tales of his top geocaching experiences, from 

rappelling down a cliff in Germany to exploring caves in 

Finland in search of elusive geocaches. One day, however, eclipses 

all others. “I have to say that meeting my wife and now-adopted-son, 

Dylan, at a geocaching event near Seattle in November 2001 is my 

favorite by far.” 

Visit geocaching.com to create a profile. Download the geocaching 

app in the iTunes or Google Play stores. 


what’s going up? 

Taste in Style 

Washington’s newest 

tasting rooms 

written by Kevin Max 

WITH THE WINE INDUSTRY’S 

nearly $5 billion impact on 

Washington’s economy, it’s 

no surprise that wineries are 

constantly working to make their 

products more accessible to 

visitors. Several wineries around 

the state are in the process of 

adding new tasting rooms that 

will bring their wines to the 

people of places like Spokane 

and Sunnyside. 

Architectural rendering of the new tasting room at Maryhill Winery. 

Uptic Studios Architecture 

MARYHILL WINERY 

One of Washington’s largest 

family-owned wineries, is 

breaking ground on a Spokane 

tasting room, its first outside 

of its Goldendale site along 

the Columbia River. A new 

5,000-square-foot tasting room 

in Kendall Yards, on the north 

bank of the Spokane River in 

downtown Spokane, is expected 

to open this fall. 

CO DINN TASTING ROOM 

Sunnyside is trending in new tasting 

rooms. Co Dinn Cellars opens a new 

tasting room and barrel storage this 

month in a 1930 city well building. 

Owner Co Dinn describes it as a brick 

industrial deco building with a massive 

crane inside that spans the room. He 

drove past that boarded-up building 

for many years before putting together 

a plan with the Port of Sunnyside to 

refurbish it. “I wanted to make a winery 

in Sunnyside, and they agreed to it,” 

Dinn said. 

CÔTE BONNEVILLE 

TASTING ROOM 

Also in Sunnyside, venerable Côte 

Bonneville and DuBrul Vineyards took up 

the task of renovating a 1911 downtown 

train station to open its handsome new 

tasting room. The former Union Pacific 

station is now one of Washington’s best 

stops again. 

Co Dinn Cellars 


what i’m working on 

Training Day 

Washington State’s Lois James on 

training police to recognize their biases 

interview by Sheila G. Miller 

LOIS JAMES IS A PROFESSOR in the College of Nursing at Washington 

State University in Spokane. With her husband, Steve James, she researches 

use of deadly force in law enforcement, and what underlying biases may 

be at play when police draw their weapons. She runs a lab with high-end 

use-of-force simulators, conducting research about how and why officers 

respond to shoot-or-don’t-shoot scenarios. Now she’s developed a training 

program that takes a portable simulator on the road. 

How did this project get underway? 

We wanted to be able to study things 

that are difficult to study in the field. 

This way we can study it in a controlled 

environment that still exposes officers 

to situations that are as real as they 

can get without being real. 

What did your research show? 

It’s really important obviously to put 

this stuff in context. There is a wellfounded 

and controversial debate 

about whether officers are influenced 

by a suspect’s race when they make 

a decision to shoot. We found two 

things. One, the officers tend to have 

very strong implicit associations 

between African-Americans and the 

threat of weapons. But we also found 

a counter-bias effect, which is that 

because of this implicit bias when 

they were tested in the simulator they 

tended to display hesitancy to shoot 

African-American suspects versus 

white suspects. 

We are a long way from figuring 

out what this means. We just tested 

officers in one department so there’s 

a lot more to do with research, 

but neither is desirable for officers 

on the street. 

How did you come up with the training 

scenarios? 

I took thirty years of data on officerinvolved 

shootings from the FBI’s 

Law Enforcement Officers Killed 

and Assaulted data, and looked at 

all different types of encounters. I 

created scenarios based on those. 

I look at things like, what’s the 

average distance between them, 

what is the time of day, what kind of 

a call is it—a domestic disturbance 

or some kind of traffic violation? We 

created sixty scenarios and ultimately 

really they are “shoot-or-don’t-shoot” 

scenarios. 

As for demographics, the scenarios 

match the people most likely to assault 

officers. So it’s primarily white, then 

black, and then Hispanic. Those are 

the only three racial and ethnic groups 

in the scenarios because the other 

ethnicities are much fewer in number 

in terms of the demographics of 

those who have killed or injured cops. 

How does the training work? 

Law enforcement tends to favor scenariobased 

training because, if you practice a 

skill as opposed to hearing it, that skill is 

going to become a muscle memory, an 

ingrained cognitive muscle memory. 

We use counterconditioning—the 

argument there is we very carefully select 

which scenarios to use, and they differ 

based on department. 

Officers do this training in teams of five 

and their fellow officers are in the room 

with them and are observing. So officers 

go through the scenario and then are 

asked to do a self-reflective debrief with 

careful and specific questions designed to 

dig out and uncover any bias. 

Fellow officers are asked to comment 

on an officer’s performance, what they 

saw, what they would have done the same 

or different. What we’re trying to do is 

get away from the stigma of bias training, 

because officers can feel that it’s quite 

judgmental and be defensive about it. 

What’s next? 

I’m submitting a grant proposal with 

the National Institute of Justice to do an 

evaluation of implicit bias training, because 

one of the big elephants in the room is 

that nobody really knows whether it really 

works because no one has ever tested it. 

In the realm of law enforcement there is 

very little known about it—some voices 

say implicit bias training might actually do 

more harm than good. 


My Workspace 

The Bear Center 

Working with grizzlies at 

Washington State 

written by Lindsay McWilliams 

photography by Dean Hare 

Not many universities have eleven grizzly bears 

living on campus. Washington State University is 

an exception. On the east side of campus, across 

from the WSU Arboretum, is the Bear Research, 

Education, and Conservation Center, a 2-acre 

facility where educational research is conducted 

on the North American brown bears. 

The Bear Center conducts research on captive 

grizzly bears for university, state and federal 

biologists, as well as conservation groups. Its 

research involves hibernation and metabolism, 

obesity and diabetes. 

Brandon Hutzenbiler, manager of the Bear Center, 

works hands-on with the 300- to 600-pound 

animals on a daily basis. 

Grizzlies here come from all walks of life—some 

were born in the Center, others brought in from the 

wild of Yellowstone after being deemed “nuisance 

bears” for entering campsites or disturbing human 

areas. While many of the bears are trained to 

interact with their caretakers using hand signals, 

Huztenbiler makes it clear to his volunteers never 

to forget the type of animal they’re working with. 

“These bears are in captivity, but they are by no 

means domesticated,” he said. 


game changer 

Puget Sound 

Restoration Fund 

Could kelp cultivation 

save our oceans? 

written by Mackenzie Wilson 

COULD KELP BE THE KEY to battling 

climate change in our oceans? That’s what the 

research team at Puget Sound Restoration Fund 

(PSRF) is betting. In 2015, Paul Allen ponied 

up $1.5 million to investigate kelp cultivation 

as a potential strategy for mitigating ocean 

acidification. Dr. Joth Davis, senior scientist 

for PSRF, said 25 percent of carbon emissions 

released into the atmosphere are absorbed into 

the ocean. “The resulting change in seawater 

chemistry is known as ocean acidification 

because it increases the acidity of seawater over 

time and makes calcium carbonate less available 

to marine species,” Davis said. 

Betsy Peabody, founder of PSRF, culled 

a team of world-class researchers from the 

University of Washington, NOAA and the 

state Department of Natural Resources to study 

whether kelp could be an ally in combating 

carbon emissions. “Kelp is very similar to trees 

on land in the sense that both are drawing CO2 

either out of the atmosphere in the case of 

trees or out of the seawater in the case of kelp,” 

Peabody said. 

Leveraging decades of research supporting 

the environmental benefits of planting trees, 

PSRF planted kelp sporophytes in Puget 

Sound’s Hood Canal. The microscopic kelp 

plants were attached to kite string and wound 

onto growlines that were installed at the 

demonstration site in December 2016. Peabody 

described the process as flying blind. “You put 

the seeded line out there and hope that it takes, 

you hope that those little kelp sporophytes can 

run the gauntlet of whatever is going on in the 

marine system,” she said. 

The team anxiously waited. They had 

followed proven methods used around the 

world for propagating and cultivating sugar 

kelp, but there was no guarantee because local 

species are different. Four months later, the 

microscopic kelp that entered the Puget Sound 

has grown, in some areas, to 2 meters tall. Eightthousand 

feet of line has since been installed 

at the site within a 2.5-acre area. The scientific 

assessment team deployed mooring buoys 

with sensors to collect data on the kelp. “Our 

scientists will measure chemistry and biology 

at the site to see if kelp can measurably reduce 

CO2 and make a difference on a local scale,” 

Peabody said. Another team of NOAA divers, 

she said, is conducting underwater surveys to 

see if the kelp provides habitat for marine life. 

This experiment is part of a five-year project. 

The team will repeat the process in 2018 

doing another full-scale year of cultivation and 

research. In 2019, crews will finalize analysis 

and reporting. 

Brian Allen lifts the north section of the kelp line. 

PSRF isn’t the only team growing and 

studying kelp. In Maine, kelp farmers are 

harvesting on an even bigger scale. “There has 

been some assessment of the water quality 

benefits there,” Peabody said. Early assessments 

done by the Island Institute in Maine have 

shown improvements in pH and carbon 

chemistry within kelp cultivation areas. 

These early kelp farms offer insight into what 

the future of kelp cultivation could look like. 

Peabody said it grows very quickly and can be 

used in many ways after being harvested. It 

can be grown as a sea vegetable or used as an 

alternative to petroleum based fertilizers. 

“It’s a pretty extraordinary resource,” Peabody 

noted. “This is a potential solution that could 

pay for itself with the sale of various products.” 

Acknowledging the current political climate 

and its potential impact on funding, Peabody 

said she and her colleagues have to be more 

aggressive in finding ways to support their 

research and projects. “I think people are 

experiencing some anxieties and questions, but 

regardless of the political situation, we need to 

be driving forward with solutions that are going 

to help us hold onto water quality in the future,” 

she said. 

Stephen Schreck 


5 Best 

Washington 

Small Towns 

to to 

Unplug 


THERE’S NO STOP TO THE NOISE in our day-to-day lives. From social media to excessive 

screen time, messages are increasingly crowding our spaces, our minds. The good news is, 

if you’re willing to step away and unplug, it’s possible to disconnect from digital mayhem. 

Get away to these five small towns and you’ll be forced to slow and power down, 

reconnect with the world and hear yourself think. Prepare to relax and unwind–in 

these charming destinations. 


Twisp/Winthrop 

FRESH AIR AND GOLDEN HILLS meet an abundance of culture 

in Methow Valley. Sure, you can push the adrenaline button here 

with any number of outdoor activities. But, there’s always a calm 

cadence ready to be enjoyed, evident in the town’s laid-back vibe. 

EAT: Named for the gorgeous gold flower that paints the 

valley, Arrowleaf Bistro serves local seasonal dishes, such as 

wild nettle risotto and steak frites made with Methow-raised 

beef. Save room for one of Joanne’s decadent desserts. 

207 White Ave., Winthrop 

DRINK: Locals flock to Blue Star Coffee Roasters for 

perfectly frothed cups of cappuccino and ultra-fresh coffee 

beans roasted in its 1963 German-made Probat machine. 

Owners and community fixtures, Dan and Meg Donahue 

started the coffee-roasting company after years on the Seattle 

coffee scene. 

#3 Twisp Airport Rd., Twisp 

PLAY: More than a dozen artist studios and gardens sprawl 

across 6.4 acres at TwispWorks. Shop open artist studios on 

Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Don’t miss the handprinted 

goods at Door No. 3. If all the culture makes you hungry, 

refuel with a killer burger at FORK, a food truck on site. 

502 S. Glover St. 

FROM TOP Blue Star Coffee Roasters is the best spot to start the day. Arrowleaf 

flowers are all over the scenic valley. 

STAY: Relax in the comfortable riverfront digs at Twisp 

River Suites. Dog-friendly suites are available 

across the street. The complimentary breakfast 

includes tasty egg casseroles, to-die for scones, 

and yep, Blue Star Coffee. 

140 Twisp Ave. 

Gary Ott

Winslow 

BAINBRIDGE ISLAND IS AN EASY DAYTRIP or staycation from 

Seattle. Head downtown, hop on the ferry and less than thirty minutes 

later you’re smack-dab in the seaside town of Winslow. It’s a low-key, 

walker’s paradise, just waiting to be explored. 

EAT: For a taste of the Pacific Northwest, try 

the Pub Famous Chowder at The Harbour 

Public House made with Baywater Salish blue 

clams, Hood Canal mussels, smoked sockeye 

salmon or locally farmed Pacific oysters. 

Wash it down with one of nearly a dozen local 

brews on tap. 

231 Parfitt Way SW 

DRINK: Sample a five-tasting flight, including 

old world varietals roussanne, viognier and 

petit verdot, for $10 at Eleven Winery Tasting 

Room. The winery is located 5 miles from the 

ferry and open on weekends. 

287 Winslow Way E 

PLAY: Sure, Bainbridge Island Museum of Art 

may be a small-town museum, but it strikes 

the perfect balance of local well-known and 

lesser-known contemporary artists. The best 

part? Its exhibits rival nearby urban galleries 

and admission is free. 

550 Winslow Way E 

STAY: Located a short walk from the ferry, 

The Eagle Harbor Inn has five, small but 

luxurious rooms and three townhomes. It’s far 

enough away from the main drag of downtown 

Winslow to feel like a legitimate waterfront 

retreat. 

291 Madison Ave. S 

FROM TOP The chowder at The Harbour Public House. A 

thirty-minute ferry ride delivers you to the island.

Bow/Edison 

EAT: Stop by Rhody Café for farm-to-table fare 

served in a darling farmhouse. Hands down 

the best brunch in Skagit Valley, the salmon 

eggs benedict takes the usual tasty breakfast 

standard up a notch. 

5521 Chuckanut Dr. 

FROM TOP Picnic tables at the shellfish market. The Rhody Café has the best 

brunch in Skagit Valley. 

FOR A RELAXED DAYTRIP, head to the Samish River Valley northwest of 

Skagit Valley. Drive northbound on I-5, then veer west on Highway 

20 to discover this increasingly hip but easygoing destination. 

DRINK: Locals are warm and welcome at the 

local watering hole, Corner Pub. By day, play 

horseshoes at the outdoor pits or sip pints in 

the beer garden; by night, there’s free live music 

every Thursday. 

14565 Allen West Rd. 

PLAY: Laze away an afternoon at one of Taylor 

Shellfish’s Samish Farm Shellfish Market’s 

waterfront picnic tables. Weber grills are set up 

to barbecue oysters grown in the bay outside 

and bought in the store. 

2812 Chuckanut Dr. 

STAY: Stay across the street from the casino 

gaming action at The Skagit Ridge Hotel. Rooms 

are clean, spacious and look out over a pastoral 

green area outback. 

18444 Bow Ridge Dr. 


Cle Elum/Roslyn 

FROM TOP Suncadia Resort is a mountainside idyll. Swiftwater 

Cellars’ patio lights up at night. 

EAT: At Red Bird Café, biscuits and gravy 

are a surefire hit, though gluten-free 

options, like the dill tuna sandwich, also 

draw local devotees. If you’re traveling 

with kiddos, there’s a dedicated play area. 

102 E. Pennsylvania Ave., Roslyn 

LOCATED 80 MILES EAST OF SEATTLE in the Cascade Mountains, 

the towns of Roslyn and Cle Elum provide the perfect backdrop for a 

relaxing mountain getaway. The former coal mining towns 

provide just the right amount of sophistication coupled with 

slower-paced, storied small-town charm. 

DRINK: Drink up at Brick Saloon, 

Washington’s oldest continuously 

operating roadhouse bar, since 1889. The 

colorful bar features a 23-foot running 

water spittoon, as well as live music on 

Friday and Saturday nights. 

100 W. Pennsylvania Ave. 

PLAY: Swing by the Swiftwater Cellars 

Tasting Room for a glass, tasting flight or 

bottle. On Fridays and Saturdays, when 

the space takes on a decidedly more 

lounge-like vibe after dark, you may spy 

winemaker Andrew Wisniewski. 

301 Rope Rider Dr., Cle Elum 

STAY: Soak up idyllic mountain scenery 

at Suncadia Resort. The backside of the 

property sits steps off the Cle Elum river. 

For maximum romance and relaxation, 

book a room with a private outdoor hot 

tub. 3600 Suncadia Trail, Cle Elum 


Snoqualmie 

FROM TOP The Attic at Salish Lodge offers views of Snoqualmie Falls. Snoqualmie Depot has vintage train cars on display. 

IT’S HARD NOT TO RELAX and reflect once you’ve experienced the 

magnificence of Snoqualmie Falls, measuring in at 268 feet. Located 25 

miles east of Seattle, this small town oozes natural beauty and charm. 

Snoqualmie Depot has vintage train cars for nostalgic afternoons. 

Don Detrick 

EAT: If you’re looking for a low-key spot 

to grab a drink with a view overlooking 

Snoqualmie Falls, go to The Attic at Salish 

Lodge. Don’t miss the brick oven pizzas 

and local beers. Weekday happy hour is 

also a favorite. 

6501 Railroad Ave. #102 

DRINK: After a morning of skiing 

Snoqualmie Pass or exploring the 

Northwest Rail Museum, check out 

Snoqualmie Brewery and Taproom. They 

have season and brewer’s choice brews on 

tap – try the Wildcat IPA if it’s available. 

A locals’ favorite, Last Frontier Saloon, is 

itself an escape and an unpretentious pint 

or can. History lines these walls. 

8032 Falls Ave. SE 

PLAY: Hike Rattlesnake Ridge. The 8.9- 

mile trail touts lakes, mountain views, 

ridges and passes and is perfect for photo 

ops. 

STAY: For a super romantic getaway, 

head to Salish Lodge & Spa, the setting 

for The Great Northern Hotel in 

Twin 

Peaks 

(returning to TV this summer). 

Rooms are luxurious and comfy. Sweet 

sleep is ensured with heavenly bedding, 

a special pillow menu and the warmth 

of a fireplace. 

6501 Railroad Ave. 

JUNE | JULY 2017 

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 

49

t 

four winemakers 

t 

WASHINGTON VINTNERS TALK SOIL AND SENSE OF PLACE 

and their terroir 

written by Naomi Tomky 


FROM A TRINIDADIAN DENTIST to an Irish philosopher, 

the Washington wine world brings together all types in 

pursuit of producing a better vintage. Walla Walla grows 

grapes in the shadows of the rolling Palouse hills, and Yakima 

Valley sprouts vines from its rocky soil. Each part of the state 

defines its wine with its landscape and climate, contributing 

its distinct terroir to Washington’s wine industry. But with 

fourteen regions defined as their own AVA (American 

Viticulture Area) producing 222,000 tons of different 

grapes, little unifies the wines of Washington other than the 

enthusiasm and commitment of those who make it. 

Below, four winemakers share the qualities of region 

and how their passion for Washington wine 

shaped their careers. 


woodinville 

KIT SINGH 

IT SOUNDS LIKE THE BEGINNING OF A JOKE: What do dentistry 

and winemaking have in common? But according to Kit Singh, more than 

you might imagine. The impressive, accessible wine that the Trinidadian 

immigrant makes at Lauren Ashton Cellars proves remarkable on its own. 

That the ambitious winemaker does it in his spare time is simply jawdropping. 

Singh moved to Washington to go to college and discovered his 

love for wine—a passion that he sidelined as he completed dental school. 

Through starting his practice and paying school loans, his interest in the 

industry never waned. Finally he reached the point where he could follow 

his heart, through educational programs at the University of California- 

Davis and South Seattle College, and by volunteering locally at DeLille. 

Named for Singh’s children, Lauren Ashton in Woodinville draws on 

some of Singh’s unique attributes as a winemaker to produce better wine. 

“I’m very detail-oriented,” he said, comparing the minutia of winemaking 

to working on the tiniest of teeth. But he also knows the best wine comes 

out of the greater community, which is why he had no complaints that 

his dental practice kept him from starting his winery closer to where 

his grapes grow. “It’s a competitive industry,” he said, “but there’s a lot 

of usefulness in being nearby. Logistically, Woodinville made a lot of 

sense.” He found the community of winemakers to be a great resource, 

for advice or for borrowing equipment. The concentration of wine cellars 

in Woodinville provides a well-established route for Singh to source fruit 

from Yakima Valley, Columbia Valley and Red Mountain. For the general 

wine enthusiast, Woodinville is a mecca of easily access great local 

wines a short hop from Seattle. 

WHERE TO TASTE IN WOODINVILLE 

The Commons: Comfort food 

goes creative here, where fried 

chicken sandwiches come with 

house-made kimchi while the 

wine stays close to home, featuring 

Woodinville’s best and Washington 

classics. 

thecommonscafe.com 

Barking Frog: Forget what you know 

about hotel restaurants—expert 

sommeliers here will pair a local 

bottle from the extensive list with 

produce from the garden and dishes 

inspired by the great nearby. 

willowslodge.com 

Village Wines: A cozy bar and wine 

shop that offers a casual place to 

grab a snack and taste wines from 

around the state—including some of 

Woodinville’s best—before you buy.

ed mountain 

CHRIS UPCHURCH 

CHRIS UPCHURCH IS WIDELY CONSIDERED one of Washington’s 

best and most creative winemakers for his work at DeLille Cellars, as 

well as his own personal project, Red Mountain’s Upchurch Vineyard. 

Upchurch learned his craft from one of Washington wine’s founding 

fathers, David Lake, at Columbia Winery before starting DeLille in 1992. 

“I wanted to make Bordeaux blends—nobody was making them here, 

and just a few were in California,” he recalled. With classical training 

and lessons gleaned from his travels, he hoped to blend varietals and to 

develop a new style in the region. 

At Red Mountain, he found a place where big cabernet grapes weren’t just 

powerful and rich, but had structure he could build on, that he could layer 

with the rest of the blend’s grapes. “The Old World is famous for structure 

and acidity. New World grapes always achieve ripeness, but it often means 

more alcohol and less acidity.” When he and his partners in DeLille bought 

Red Mountain Vineyards, he recognized the area’s combination of both 

features. Upchurch credits the instant success of DeLille’s blends to Red 

Mountain’s signature mix of structure and ripeness, and is now bringing 

that to his latest project, Upchurch. 

On Red Mountain, Upchurch finds a vineyard and a laboratory. “I’m 

basically taking what Mother Nature gave us a long time ago, and seeing 

where it can go,” he said. “The future is the same—discover what this small 

appellation can give us.” 

WHERE TO TASTE IN RED MOUNTAIN 

DeLille: Upchurch’s original foray 

into Red Mountain Bordeaux blends 

still produces some of the region’s 

best after a quarter century. 

delillecellars.com 

Col Solare: A collaboration between a 

Tuscan winemaker and a Northwest 

winemaker turns out Cabernetbased, 

globally-inspired wines that 

remain firmly rooted in the Red 

Mountain soil. 

colsolare.com 

Fidelitas: As the name implies, this 

winery from a long-time veteran of 

Chateau Ste. Michelle stays faithful to 

the tradition of Bordeaux varietals to 

elevate the Red Mountain grapes. 

fidelitaswines.com

yakima 

DAVID O’REILLY 

THE AGRARIAN LIFESTYLE appealed to David O’Reilly. After 

growing up in Belfast during the Troubles, “you were always looking 

over your shoulder. … The danger was palpable.” Long before he started 

making wines at Owen Roe, his Yakima Valley winery, he first tasted 

rural life at his family’s farm. “It was such an oasis to go to the Republic 

[of Ireland], to live on the farm. That was heaven.” 

At 17, he left Northern Ireland for rural British Columbia, where his 

large family (twelve siblings) subsistence-farmed while their father, a 

professor, passed on his love of debate. Moving to Santa Barbara for 

college, O’Reilly threw himself into the study of philosophy, but the 

nearby wine country captured his heart. “I knew it’s what I wanted to 

do,” he said. As he graduated from scrubbing floors at a winery to more 

advanced jobs, his industry knowledge and stature grew. 

After helping a friend scout Columbia Valley grapes in the early 

’90s, O’Reilly kept the Yakima area on his radar, even as he made wines 

in Oregon. With its long, sunny days and unmistakable New World 

ripeness, Yakima Valley, O’Reilly knew, would be the plot for a worldclass 

cabernet. Soon, he got wind of a winery that couldn’t get the 

yield it wanted out of the land because of the stony soil. He visited and 

walked the steep hillside that winter.. It was then that O’Reilly knew 

that Yakima Valley’s higher elevations were worthy of a Grande Cru. 

“You couldn’t dial in better conditions for wines that taste good today 

and stand the test of time.” 

WHERE TO TASTE IN YAKIMA VALLEY 

Owen Roe: O’Reilly still makes the 

big wines that drew him to the region, 

keeping them consistently impressive 

throughout the years and adorning 

them with gorgeous, artistic labels. 

owenroe.com 

JB Neufeld: A personal project from 

the head winemaker of the acclaimed 

Gilbert Cellars, it focuses on the 

specifics of what the same wine made 

from different vineyards tastes like. 

jbneufeld.com 

Syncline Winery: Though the 

winery is located just south of Yakima 

in the Columbia Gorge area, many 

of its wines come from its Boushey 

Vineyard collection, including an 

intriguing and complex Syrah. 

synclinewine.com 


wal lawal la 

ANNA SCHAFER 

WHERE TO DINE & TASTE IN WALLA WALLA 

Brasserie Four: A cozy and casual 

French restaurant with a wine shop 

attached, from which diners can select 

local (as well as imported) bottles to 

go with their escargots, oysters, or 

croque monsieur. 

brasseriefour.com 

The Ox & Cart: Local wines match 

up to the regional ingredients on a 

menu that would be as at home in 

San Francisco or Seattle as it is here 

in the rural corner of the state: lamb 

tartare, slow-smoked Kurobota pork, 

and fried chicken and waffles. 

theoxandcart.com 

Whitehouse-Crawford: It’s the place 

to dig into everything from classic 

steak to Vietnamese fried calamari, 

but it’s the wine list—including an 

extensive Walla Walla section—that 

sets it apart. 

whitehousecrawford.com 

ÀMAURICE CELLARS IS A FAMILY OPERATION. Winemaker Anna Schafer 

inherited her love for and knowledge of wine from her father, and now she works 

alongside her parents and siblings at one of Washington’s finest boutique wineries. At the 

Schafer family dinner table, everyone came together over mom’s incredible cooking and 

hashed out big ideas—like starting a winery. They ended up planting 11 acres on a southfacing 

slope in Walla 

Walla, next to Leonetti’s 

Cab reserve program. 

While planting vines 

adjacent to a Leonetti 

vineyard was an asset to 

the family, the Shafers 

were ultimately attracted 

by the Walla Walla 

community. “It was a 

big, huge hug when we 

showed up,” Schafer 

said. Norm McKibben 

of Pepper Bridge (a 

founding father of the 

industry) sent over a 

bottle of wine when they 

first arrived, along with a 

note that high tide floats 

all boats. “They wanted to 

make sure we made a wine worthy of the valley.” 

Praise and awards soon found Schafer’s wines. Anna Shafer lauds the rich land, 

quoting Jeb Dunnuck of Wine Advocate, who noted that the valley has “the most 

specific terroir in the world, the most pungent example of terroir.” Aside from the 

land, weather in the valley provides another compelling feature. àMaurice practices 

dryland farming—it hasn’t irrigated its vines in years. The vineyard uses very little 

water to make very good wines. In an age of global warming, Schafer feels that this 

style of farming that uses minimal water will sustain Walla Walla’s vaunted position in 

the industry.

We make 

great wines 

for you at 

340 N. Fir Street 

We sell & market 

your wines at 

330 N. Fir Street 

palletwine.com 

541.779.1788 

Custom Winemaking, Private Label Program, 

Tasting Room, Tours & Events 

downtown Medford, OR 

theurbancork.com

Above the Rim 

photos provided by Spokane Hoopfest 

SPOKANE HOOPFEST IS THE BIGGEST threeon-three 

outdoor basketball tournament in the world, 

with more than 6,000 teams playing on 450 courts 

that run along forty-five city blocks. The event, which 

doubles as an outdoor festival complete with food 

and shopping, takes place June 24 and 25.

The tournament is spread across forty-five city blocks.


Spokane Hoopfest takes 3,000 volunteers to put on and draws 225,000 fans checking out the action. 


ABOVE The Hoopfest has divisions for every skill level. 


...the Natural Side of Puget Sound TM 

TM 

Kitsap 

Peninsula 

National 

Water 

Trails 

Kitsap 

Peninsula 

VisitKitsap.com/lodging 

Easy to get to by ferry, bridge, bike, boat, bus or auto. 

• Comfort Inn on the Bay - Port Orchard 

360.895.2666 | tinyurl.com/mu4zfde 

• Guest House International - Poulsbo 

360.697.4400 | guesthouseintl.com 

• Poulsbo Inn & Suites - Little Norway 

800.597.5151 | poulsboinn.com 

• Suquamish Clearwater Casino Resort 

360.598.8700 | clearwatercasino.com 

• Oxford Suites - Silverdale Waterfront 

888.698.7848 | oxfordsuitessilverdale.com 

• Silverdale Beach Hotel - Best Western Plus 

360.698.1000 | silverdalebeachhotel.com 

• The Point Casino & Hotel - Kingston 

866-547-6468 | the-point-casino.com 

• Hamption Inn & Suites - Hilton - Bremerton 

360.405.0200 | bremertonsuites.hamptoninn.com 

Just 12 miles east of Seattle! 

www.explorekirkland.com

design: tnbd.net 

TITLE SPONSORS 

HEADLINE SPONSORS 

GEAR EXPO & SALE • CAMPING • MUSIC • FILM • RAFFLE • ACTIVITIES • PCTDAYS.COM

TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 66 

ADVENTURE 68 

LODGING 74 

TRIP PLANNER 78 

NORTHWEST DESTINATION 84 

Rob Kerr 

pg. 84 

Bend, Oregon has a ton of outdoor options.

travel spotlight 

Maryhill Stonehenge 

Replica of a prehistoric 

monument in our backyard 

written by Lindsay McWilliams 

photography by Bill Devlin 

OVERLOOKING THE COLUMBIA RIVER in Maryhill 

is a monument that looks eerily familiar, but seems 

to be in the wrong place. Pillars of concrete stand in 

a circular form, reminiscent of the prehistoric icon 

in Wiltshire, England. 

Sam Hill, pioneer for industry in the West and 

founder of Maryhill, was a pacifist. Mistakenly 

believing the original Stonehenge was a site of 

human sacrifice, Hill planned to build a replica of the 

monument as a World War I memorial, comparing 

the war to modern-day human sacrifice. 

When the structure was erected in 1918, a plaque 

was placed on the altar stone that read, “To the 

memory of the soldiers and sailors of Klickitat 

County who gave their lives in defense of their 

country. This monument is erected in hope that 

others inspired by the example of their valor and 

their heroism may share in that love of liberty and 

burn with that fire of patriotism which death alone 

can quench.” Hill completed his opus in 1929 and, 

when he died in 1931, his body was buried nearby. 

Today, the memorial is maintained by the Maryhill 

Museum of Art, a sprawling Beaux Art design 

that was originally built as Hill’s private residence. 

Whether you’re headed to the museum, Maryhill 

Winery or the Goldendale Observatory, make a 

stop at Maryhill Stonehenge and visit for free from 

7 a.m. to dusk. 


adventure 

Fear and Beauty on 

the Race to Alaska 

Three women unite in a thrilling 

daring boat race from Port Townsend 

to Ketchikan, Alaska 

written by Katy Stewart 

SEVEN HUNDRED FIFTY MILES OF 

cold water, unsupported and engineless up 

the Inside Passage—this is my kind of adventure. 

My sister Emily surprised me by announcing she 

wanted to join me. We borrowed our dad’s year-old homemade trimaran and texted an old sailing friend, 

twenty-five- 

Jenny Goff, who immediately responded, “Heck yeah!” Suddenly 

we had our team: three thirty-something ladies on an aging 

homemade boat. We had our work cut out for us. 

In between the starting line in Port Townsend, Washington 

and the finish in Ketchikan, Alaska were hundreds of miles of 

unfamiliar waters, extreme tidal exchanges and unpredictable 

weather. Two checkpoints—Seymour Narrows and Bella 

Bella—were the only requirements to our route planning. Like 

everything with Race to Alaska, it’s an exercise in determination 

and grit. 

According to its creators, the Race to Alaska is “North 

America’s longest human and wind-powered race.” On the line 

was $10,000 to the winning team and a set of steak knives for 

second-place finishers. The consolation prize may seem an 

absurd step down, but isn’t racing 

to Alaska entirely self-supported 

nonsensical to begin with? 

We spent most of our weekends between January 

and May chipping away at a seemingly endless to-do 

list—sanding, painting, replacing running rigging, studying 

nautical charts and most importantly, finding a way to propel 

ourselves when the wind died. With four weeks left to the 

starting gun, we launched the boat in Lakebay, Washington for 

trial runs. 

People asked if we thought we could win. The answer was 

definitely no. Like running a marathon, few people enter 

to actually win. Most enter to feel that incredible sense of 

accomplishment and to push their limits. We wanted to know if 

we could get ourselves from Washington to Ketchikan without 

a motor. 

In the early morning darkness of June 23, participants in 

the Race to Alaska awoke to howling wind from the “wrong” 

direction. We knew it was going to be almost 

impossible to row our little boat out of the marina. We 


gave ourselves a pep talk, took a few deep breaths and 

pushed off. I tried to shout encouragement to my team, 

but the wind sucked the words from my mouth. My 

voice cracked and my heart pounded in my throat as I 

tried to wave and smile at the rows of cheering race fans 

up on the pier. I wondered if they realized I was about 

to smash my tiny boat to pieces on the beach in front of 

them? Giving up was not an option, so we rowed. Hard. 

Just as the port side of the boat nicked the tar-covered 

piling of the break wall, I loosened up the headsail 

furling line and the sail snapped full of wind. We shot 

ahead into open water, clear of our first big obstacle. 

A spectator from the pier later told me they were all 

chanting, “Go starboard!” hoping if they chanted loudly 

enough it would happen. She said it was like clapping 

if you believe in fairies. That sentiment embodies this 

adventure—strength, endurance, preparation and 

maybe a little bit of fairy dust. 

The first few days passed in a blur of high wind and 

heavy current. Somewhere near the top of Johnstone 

Straight, we were taking on water from an unknown 

location and started having electrical problems. Our 

aging solar panel, bought for a trip to Mexico in 2003, 

stopped charging the battery. As the light faded that 

evening, so did our voltage. We spent a long night 

without running lights, electric bilge pump or depth 

sounder, and watched the battery on our backup 

navigation device slowly die. At some point, sleepy and 

frustrated, I attempted a pep talk. It went something 

like this, but probably less intelligible: “This race is 

just a series of problems we have to solve. If we can 

solve them all, we will probably make it to Ketchikan.” 

Inspiring stuff, right? 

We drifted and rowed through the night and well 

into the next day, inching our way into Port McNeill, 

where we were met by smiling race fans who offered 

hot showers, a battery charger, replacement supplies 

for our dwindling first aid kit, updated us on the 

progress of our competition and made sure we had 

enough money to go up to the pub for hot food. Our 

morale was instantly restored. We slept a few hours and 

headed back out with the changing tide. 

Sometime around day six or seven, on a clear windy 

night flying up Fitz Hugh Sound, my teammates were 

stuffed down in our little cabin snoozing while I relaxed 

at the helm, enjoying speeding along in the moonlight, 

until … thud! We hit a deadhead—one of many 

floating logs roaming the inside passage—bringing us 

momentarily to a full stop. I called for Emily to check 

for water inside the boat and for Jenny to check the 

hydrofoil. I envisioned it had been ripped from the 

outer hull, leaving a gaping hole right at the water 

line. Emily dove out of her bunk, still mostly asleep, 

and in her groggy state thought her tangled 

sleeping bag was water dragging her down. 

FROM TOP A view from the deck of Stewart’s trimaran. The ship en route 

from Washington to Alaska. 


adventure 

I knew I was going to love 

this crazy adventure, 

but what I didn’t expect 

was that I’d be sailing 

straight into a huge new 

community of equally 

crazy people ... 

—Katy Stewart 

Katy Stewart takes a moment of rest as she paddles on the Race to Alaska. 

Our headlamps frantically beamed around the ship but revealed 

no damage. Our heartbeats slowed, and we laughed at our own 

panic. 

The race wasn’t all problem solving and panic, though. Along 

the way there were also rainbows, whales, amazing downwind 

spinnaker runs, tiny beautiful anchorages, leaping dolphins, 

beautiful sunsets, and, in the pitch dark of 2 a.m. at the finish 

line in Ketchikan twelve days and fourteen hours later, a dock 

full of cheering people armed with cold beer and warm hugs. 

We finished seventeenth out of twenty-three finishers (twentyone 

teams dropped out along the way). I knew I was going to 

love this crazy adventure, but what I didn’t expect was that I’d 

be sailing straight into a huge new community of equally crazy 

people—those nuts enough to take this wild ride and those 

enthusiastic enough to wave us across the finish line in the 

dead of night, and the armchair sailors obsessively reloading the 

race tracker page for updates from our tiny onboard tracking 

beacons. They all shared in the terror, gratification, exhaustion, 

humor, and pure excitement that made up each of those 750 

miles. I’m going again in 2017. 


lodging 

ACCOMMODATIONS 

There are several styles of rooms and 

cottages, many with separate seating 

areas for some book time and stressreducing 

deep soaking tubs. Waterfront 

guest rooms offer a panoramic view of 

Hood Canal, private balconies and chaise 

lounges. Garden-view rooms overlook a 

waterfall and an immaculately tailored 

lawn. Creek-view guest rooms have 

plaza courtyard access. One- and twobedroom 

cottages offer a more private 

escape for couples or families, each with 

a fully equipped kitchen, gas fireplace 

and a sunny porch to relax on. 

DINING 

The restaurant at Alderbrook is a 

destination, offering an all-day lineup of 

farm-to-table dishes, fine wines and a menu 

of locally grown and harvested oysters. 

The resort is an idyllic setting for catered 

celebratory occasions and weddings. 

Weeknight happy hour is worth checking 

out, with live music on Fridays. 

Alderbrook Resort 


IN NEED OF A RELAXING GETAWAY 

that includes scenic surroundings, eagles 

soaring overhead, water underfoot? A chance 

to unclench the jaw and breathe air in a 

remote setting, but with every luxury amenity 

included in a chic boutique hotel? We’ve 

found the spot. Alderbrook Resort & Spa is a 

destination with an intriguing backstory. Built 

in the early 1900s, the only route to this resort 

was by boat. As time swept by, ownership 

changed hands several times, roads were 

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP A view of Alderbrook’s dock. Alderbrook offers farm -to-table 

dining. The spa features a signature massage with heated basalt stones. 

built, tents became cottages, a lodge was 

erected. The result is a gorgeously refurbished 

retreat with a bounty of beauty and activity. 

Surrounded by the Olympic Mountains and 

resting on the shore of the Hood Canal is a 

staycation destination where you’ll simply 

want to bring books and stay, indefinitely. 

7101 E STATE HIGHWAY 106 

UNION 

alderbrookresort.com 

GOLF & SPA 

If you’re a golfer, you’re in heaven at 

Alderbrook. The on-site Alderbrook Golf 

Club is ranked one of the top twenty-five 

courses in the Northwest, with tee times 

available year round. Surrounding courses 

such as the Gold Mountain Golf Course, 

the Trophy Lake Golf Course and the Salish 

Cliffs Golf Club ensure a variety of day-today, 

eighteen-hole relaxation. For complete 

rejuvenation, the Alderbrook spa offers 

a signature massage with heated basalt 

stones, an herbal-infused steam room, 

luxurious hot oil scalp massages and marine 

algae wraps. 

ACTIVITIES 

Engulfed in a vortex of nearby trails, 

Alderbrook offers some great outdoor fun, 

so be sure to bring your hiking shoes. A 

map of trail walks is available ranging from 

a half-mile breather to a 3.2-mile loop. For 

some high-tech adventure, be sure to ask 

about geocaching, a way to explore the 

grounds in search of hidden containers that 

lead to prizes—great fun for kids or the kid 

in us. For gamers, there is an Xbox game 

room open 24/7 with nine game stations 

including an Xbox 360 and a 37-inch TV in 

each, all complimentary to guests. For the 

budding artist, every room is equipped with 

sketchbooks and pencils for nature-inspired 

artistry. For Friday fun, check out aqua 

yoga in the saltwater pool or ask about the 

occasional full moon yoga. 


a resort for all seasons 

Sun Mountain Lodge and Chateau Ste. Michelle 

are celebrating their 50th anniversaries with an 

EXCLUSIVE WINE DINNER 

JULY 26, 2017 

at SUN MOUNTaIN N LODGE 

Three-Course Wine Dinner 

for $100 per person 

Tax and gratuity not included. 

Wines will be available for purchase 

by the bottle from your server. 

Call for menu, wines and reservations. 

509-996-4707 

Oceanfront Rooms & Suites • Indoor Pool 

Continental Breakfast • Spa • Game Room 

Private Park • Pet-Friendly Rooms 

Mariah’s Restaurant, on site. 

Call for Seasonal Specials! 

1-800-562-4836 thepolynesian.com 

Ocean Shores, WA 

Winner: 

“Best Place 

For 

Peace & Quiet” 

Welcome to the 

Beautiful 

Olympic Coast! 

Frommer’s declares the most spectacular 

setting anywhere on the Washington . Coast 

at historic Ocean Crest Resort 

Award Winning Restaurant & Bar 

With Sweeping Ocean Views 

New Gift Shop Featuring 

Local Arts & Crafts 

Indoor Pool & Spa 

Direct Beach Access 

Spectacular Ocean Views 

Cozy Fireplace Rooms 

Family Friendly 

Pet Friendly 

No Cleaning Fees 

OCEAN CREST RESORT • 360-276-4465 

4651 SR 109 Moclips, WA 98562 

OceanCrestResort • info@OceanCrestResort.com 

Steps To Haystack Rock Indoor Salt-Water Pool 

Ocean Front Suites Pet-Friendly Rooms 

Fitness Center 

Seasonal Specials 

Fireplaces 

Meeting Space 

1-800-333-8890 TolovanaInn.com

Live Rogue 

TravelGrantsPass.com

Discover 

“UNFORGETTABLE” 

Grays Harbor, WA 

“Unforgettable” Fishing & Boating 

Miles of “Unforgettable” Beaches 

“Unforgettable” Wildlife & Scenery 

“Unforgettable” Hiking & Camping 

Plan your next “Unforgettable” getaway 

online at visitgraysharbor.com 

or call 1-800-621-9625

trip planner 

Everett 

A small-town feel with 

big-town features 


ONE OF THE GREAT JOYS OF A BIG CITY can be 

leaving it. By extension, it’s nice to discover the many 

smaller cities around a population center, interesting 

in their own right. Everett is one of those places—just 

45 minutes north of Seattle, this waterfront city of a 

little more than 100,000 was incorporated in 1893, the 

same year the Great Northern Railway came to town. 

Townspeople hoped the railroad would stop in Everett, 

but the company chose to continue it on to Seattle. And 

that’s how Everett grew to be an industrial center in 

Seattle’s backyard. 

Today the city has much to talk about, including a 

booming port and waterfront rebirth and a 

quickly growing arts scene. 

XFINITY Arena is situated in the heart of Everett’s downtown. 


1.888.965.7001 YourLittleBeachTown.com 

Perk up your winter with a Pacific City getaway. 

Our ocean view boutique hotel, oceanfront suites and 

vacation rental homes are the perfect winter escape. 

And all are within walking distance of the original 

Pelican Brewing brewpub where hearty food and 

award winning brews await. Time to pack your parka.

trip planner 

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT A woman blows glass at the Schack Art Center. Entrance 

to the Schack Art Center. A pastry from Karl’s Bakery. 

Day 

ART • SEAFOOD • GARDENS 

GRAB A HEARTY BREAKFAST or just a Danish or donut from 

Karl’s Bakery & Café, or swing by Choux Choux Bakery, which 

will bring you the flaky French pastries of your dreams. Your carb 

and butter intake demands an equal and opposite walk. If you’re 

interested in getting outside, Everett Community College has 

a small Japanese garden on campus that is well kept. Likewise, 

Evergreen Arboretum & Gardens has a variety of trees and other 

plants arranged around a quiet park. 

Then head to the heart of downtown. On your way you’ll pass 

along wide roads through neighborhoods filled with beautiful 

Victorian homes and Mid-century modern houses. Traipsing 

these neighborhoods alone could take hours, but keep moving. 

Hewitt Avenue is Everett’s first major street, and features a 

national historic district with dozens of brick buildings adorned 

with odd, decorative cornices and old painted advertisements. 

A tour of the historic and charming downtown is not complete 

without a stop at the Schack Art Center. Admission is free, and 

the art center offers interesting exhibits, including fiberworks—a 

giant sock made of sock monkeys, delicate sculptures crafted 

from thread, quilts and clothing and pin-thin glass pieces. Take 

a class, then stay to watch glass-blowing happening live on the 

premises. 

Café Wylde is just across the street and perfect for a healthy 

snack—flavorful, vegetarian fare including smoothies and 

juices, noodles and tacos. 

If you’re traveling with children, the Imagine Children’s 

Museum is just steps away and has fantastic hands-on exhibits 

to encourage free play for kids, an indoor tree house, vehicles 

and a water play area. On a clear day, head to the roof, which 

has a large play area with musical instruments built in that will 

keep children exploring until they’re exhausted. This place is a 

sensory jungle for kids. 

The Inn at Port Gardner is the perfect place to rest after 

a busy day. The only waterfront hotel in Everett, the Inn has 

all the amenities of a luxury hotel and offers something most 

don’t—free in-room breakfast. The Inn is also walking distance 

from two good restaurants—Anthony’s Homeport Everett, 

which serves fresh seafood, and Lombardi’s Italian, a 

bustling spot with a long happy hour. 


A free ferry to a sandy island of wonder • Beer, food truck, art and music festivals • 

Tons of free outdoor live music • Kayaking, kiteboarding, paddleboarding • 

A waterfront farmers market • The happiest happy hours around 

THIS IS SUMMER. #THISISEVERETT

trip planner 

Day 

AIRPLANES • BREWS • BASEBALL 

Everett is, above all, a place of industry. It has the largest 

public marina on the West Coast, which is home to a 

naval base and a redevelopment project that will add 

housing, restaurants and retail to the area. 

Scuttlebutt Brewing is in the heart of this marina, and 

bustles with a sports bar vibe. The fish and chips are 

great, as are the locally brewed beers. 

More notable than the marina, though, is Boeing’s 

commercial airplane manufacturing facility. The 

company produces its 747, 767, 777 and 787 Dreamliners 

in a giant factory minutes away in Mukilteo. 

The Future of Flight Aviation Center and tour is 

ninety minutes of pure astonishment—at the power 

of industry and the sheer size of things we can build. 

The $25 tour starts with a short promotional video. 

Then visitors board coach buses and tour the facilities. 

Of note: the building where these airplanes are made is 

the world’s largest building by volume. Here, workers 

are busy producing America’s commercial fleet as 

you ride freight elevators, walk through cavernous 

basement tunnels and gawk from platforms high above 

the manufacturing floor. Tour guides (lucky if you get 

the mutton-chopped Christopher) are knowledgeable 

and explain in detail how the manufacturing process has 

developed over the years. 

At the end of the tour, take an elevator to the center’s 

rooftop, the Strato Deck, to see just how vast Boeing’s 

footprint is here. Even non-nerds will be amazed. 

Depending on your timing in Everett, check to see 

what is happening at XFINITY Arena. The facility 

opened in 2003 and hosts big-name acts and has 

a public ice rink. Or grab a hot dog and catch a baseball 

game—the Everett AquaSox. The Northwest 

Panoramic view of Boeing from the Strato Deck. 

League minor league Mariners affiliate starts play 

in June. 

Grab dinner at Moon Tree Asian Tapas, a 

small-plate Japanese restaurant, or check out Emory’s 

on Silver Lake, a more traditional spot with freshly 

netted seafood. 

EVERETT, WASHINGTON 

EAT 

Moon Tree Asian Tapas 

moontreeasiantapas.com 

Emory’s on Silver Lake 

emorys.com 

Scuttlebutt Brewing 

scuttlebuttbrewing.com 

Café Wylde 

cafewylde.com 

Karl’s Bakery & Café 

karls-bakery.com 

Choux Choux 

chouxchouxbakery.com 

Anthony’s Homeport 

anthonys.com 

Lombardi’s Italian 

lombardisitalian.com 

STAY 

Inn at Port Gardner 

innatportgardner.com 

PLAY 

Schack Art Center 

schack.org 

Imagine Children’s Museum 

imaginecm.org 

Everett AquaSox 

milb.com 

Future of Flight Aviation Center 

futureofflight.org 

Inside Future of Flight Aviation Center. 


Art Exhibits 

Glassblowing 

EAT, PLAY AND STAY IN 

Gifts of Art 

Historical DuPont 

NESTLED ON THE BEAUTIFUL PUGET SOUND, 

NO MATTER YOUR AGE OR INTEREST, 

THERE IS PLENTY TO DO IN DUPONT 

DOWNTOWN EVERETT, WA 

2921 Hoyt Ave. / 425-259-5050 / schack.org 

dupontwa.gov 

visitdupont.com 

OPEN SEVEN DAYS A WEEK 

M-F 10am-6pm / Sat 10am-5pm / Sun 12-5pm 

Made possible in part by the City of Everett Hotel/Motel Tax Fund

northwest destination 

Bend, Oregon 

Land of plenty ... plenty of bikes, 

breweries and outdoors 


photography by Cody Rheault 

EVERY OTHER WEEK BEND, Oregon is named 

to another “best-of” list—CNN’s best beer towns 

in America, Outside Magazine’s best places 

to live, Men’s Journal’s best places to live now. 

Perhaps Bend is being oversold? 

Bend is so loved by its locals that they’ve 

started putting a new bumper sticker on their 

cars: Bend sucks … don’t move here. 

With about 85,000 people, Bend combines 

a lot of the best things in life—twenty-nine 

breweries in the area, a thriving downtown and 

public land on all sides just right for adventure, 

whether that’s cross-country skiing, hiking, 

rock-climbing, kayaking. Plus, Mt. Bachelor is 

fewer than 45 minutes away and is one of the 

biggest ski areas in the United States. It’s often 

open through May, and when the snow melts, 

Bachelor turns into a mountain bike park. 

Visit Bend, the city’s tourism arm, established 

the Bend Ale Trail—a map and passport that 

helps you find the many breweries around town. 

Get your passport stamped at each one, and once 

you’ve visited the fifteen on the list, you can turn 

in your passport for a Bend Silipint. Put Worthy 

Brewing, Crux, Deschutes and Cascade Lakes on 

your pint list. 

If you’re more interested in adventure than 

beer, Bend has you covered. Take an innertube 

float through town on the Deschutes River, 

or grab a kayak and hit the Bend Whitewater 

Park, a manmade wave in the middle of the 

river that attracts surfers and kayakers (this is 

not for beginners). Nervous? There’s a bridge 

overlooking the whitewater park where you can 

just watch the action. 

Back on terra firma, rent a mountain bike 

and check out the dozens of trails available 

minutes from town—Phil’s Trail Complex is 

one of the most accessible and popular in the 

area, with trails for everyone from beginners to 

experts. If venturing out into the forest of 

an unfamiliar town is not your bag, Bend has 

plenty of tour operators, including Cog Wild 

Mountain Bike Tours. 

Let’s not forget the culinary culture in Bend. 

For a city with fewer than 100,000 people, the 

restaurant scene is heads above other towns twice 

or three times its size. Check out happy hour 

The Deschutes River runs through the center of town. 


northwest destinations 

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Food carts at The Lot. A rock climber scales the heights of 

Smith Rock. A Panacea Pilsner from Worthy Brewing. 

at 900 Wall, a cavernous restaurant 

right in the heart of downtown with 

out-of-the-ordinary appetizers and a 

great wine list. Venture farther afield 

and stop in to the unassuming El 

Sancho for the best tacos in town. If 

you’re looking for something a little 

more refined, try Zydeco Kitchen + 

Cocktails (get the barbeque shrimp 

appetizer). For a more laidback 

approach, try Spork. It will be busy, 

because, even though tourists know 

about it, locals insist on returning to 

eat Spork’s global street food. 

EAT 

900 Wall 

900wall.com 

El Sancho 

elsanchobend.com 

Zydeco Kitchen & Cocktails 

zydecokitchen.com 

Spork 

sporkbend.com 

STAY 

The Oxford Hotel 

oxfordhotelbend.com 

Wall Street Suites 

wallstreetsuitesbend.com 

Tetherow 

tetherow.com 

PLAY 

Mt. Bachelor 

mtbachelor.com 

Bend Whitewater Park 

bendparksandrec.org/bend-whitewater-park 

Phil’s Trail Complex 

cotamtb.com 

Bend Ale Trail 

visitbend.com 


1889 MAPPEDThe points of interest below are culled from 

stories and events in this edition of 1889. 

Oroville 

Forks 

Friday Harbor 

Port Angeles Coupeville 

Port 

Townsend 

Bellingham 

Mount Vernon 

Lakewood 

Marysville 

Everett 

Okanogan 

Republic 

Colville 

Newport 

Aberdeen 

South 

Bend 

Shelton 

Montesano 

Port Orchard 

Cathlamet 

Longview 

Olympia 

Chehalis 

Kelso 

Seattle 

Bellevue 

Renton 

Kent 

Federal Way 

Tacoma 

Ellensburg 

Yakima 

Waterville 

Wenatchee 

Ephrata 

Prosser 

Richland 

Wilbur 

Pasco 

Kennewick 

Ritzville 

Dayton 

Walla 

Walla 

Davenport 

Spokane 

Colfax 

Pomeroy 

Asotin 

Vancouver 

Stevenson 

Goldendale 

Live 

Think 

Explore 

14 

Maryhill Winery concerts 

38 

Groundspeak 

66 

Maryhill Stonehenge 

15 

Uprising Organics 

40 

Co Dinn Tasting Room 

68 

Race to Alaska 

21 

Yellow Church Cafe 

41 

Washington State University-Spokane 

74 

Alderbrook Resort 

24 

Locati Farms 

42 

The Bear Center at WSU 

78 

The Future of Flight Aviation Center 

34 

Lynden murals 

43 

Puget Sound Restoration Fund 

84 

Bend, Oregon 


Until Next Time 

Why We Stay, 

Despite the Rain 

written by Gina Cohen 

illustration by Brooke Miracle 

I’VE LIVED IN THE Pacific Northwest nearly 

all my life, but this past winter’s weather had me 

checking my real estate app daily for housing 

options in warmer climates. Phoenix might be 

a nice place to live. Sunny San Diego? A bit too 

expensive. Austin’s a fun, progressive city, and 

I’ve got friends in Texas … decisions, decisions. 

My eyes widened as the reality of an umbrellafree 

life set in—I could afford a house with a 

pool! I’d pay less for a mortgage and live in the 

sunshine! Day after day, as the rain came down 

with no sign of ending, I dreamed of my new 

resort life—of neighbors joining me for backyard 

pool parties, of waking up to the sun pouring in 

through the windows instead of that typical haze 

of grey. And yet … I decided to stay. 

Yes, we had a terrible winter. I live in 

Snoqualmie, where we had our fair share of 

snow this past season, including one d a y 

where my son and I were stranded 

in Issaquah when the snow fell 

so massively and without warning that the 

parkway to our home closed due to the number 

of spun-out cars. And the rain … so much rain. I 

read somewhere that there were only three sunny, 

warm days between October and March. Crazy. 

I have a job that would allow me to live wherever 

I want. I’m a solo parent, with no custody ties to 

keep me here. My parents split their time between 

here, Phoenix and Maui. My sister’s family lives 

in Palm Springs. I could go anywhere. The cost 

of living in the Seattle area is high, and with all 

of life’s financial burden resting squarely on my 

shoulders, this weighs on me. 

But then one day in the middle of March, the 

sun appeared. I took a walk with my dogs and 

my son, and there were people out and about, 

happy and smiling. The sun felt like a salve on 

my face, brightening my skin and my spirit. 

It served to remind me that the rain one day 

would lift. And as winter turns to spring, and 

spring turns to summer, the sunny days make 

up for the dreary ones. There’s no prettier city 

when it’s warm outside than Seattle. Making 

a move would mean leaving behind those 

impromptu trips to Rattlesnake Lake to cool 

off in the water in my favorite “away-from-itall” 

space. No more trips to Lake Chelan with 

friends, lazing by the pool or laughing on 

inflatables in the lake. The very idea of rooting 

on my beloved Seahawks from another city just 

felt wrong. 

I also feel the draw of my village—my friends, 

my neighbors, the community I’ve built around 

me, despite our city being known for the “Seattle 

freeze.” My local friends are my family—we’ve had 

Thanksgivings together, we’ve traveled together. 

Strength of community, day-trip experiences, city 

beauty—these aren’t included on real estate MLS 

listings. These are the intangibles that make a city 

home. And Seattle is mine. 

In this city we love, and in the bigger picture 

of life, it takes the rainy season to make you 

appreciate the sun. I’ve deleted my real estate app 

to make space for more photos of what promises 

to be yet another beautiful Seattle summer. See 

you at the lake. 


Brigadoon 

Presented by 

Service Dogs 

Brigadoon 

Presented and benefiting by 

Presented Service Brigadoon disabled by Dogs veteran’s 

Brigadoon 

and programs. benefiting 

disabled Service veteran’s Dogs 

Service programs. and Aug benefiting 3Dogs 

2nd Annual Public Wine Tasting & Awards and disabled Presentation 

downtown benefiting veteran’s 

Information and Registration @ BellinghamNorthwestWineFesival.com 

disabled Aug programs. bellingham 3 veteran’s 

programs. downtown wine walk 

bellingham Aug 3 

wine walk 

Taste more than 100 wines at Aug downtown Aug 32 

- 4 

Northwest Washington’s only judged wine competition downtown bellingham whatcom 

Aug bellingham 4 wine 

Public Tasting Saturday August 5, 2017 

Four Points Sheraton Bellingham WA 

Open to wineries from Washington, Oregon, 

British Columbia and Idaho. Want to Participate? 

Submission deadline for judged wines: July 1, 2017 

On-site festival wine store allows you to purchase your favorites!! 

Enjoy complimentary food samples from Bellingham Coffee Roasters, 

Cosmos Bistro, Lovitt Restaurant, 9Restaurant, The Vault, and Pierside Kitchen. 

TICKETS AVAILABLE ONLINE AT EVENTBRITE 

We hope to see you in Bellingham! 

Net proceeds to benefit Growing Veterans, Lydia Place, 

Brigadoon Service Dogs, and Our Tree House. 

Presented by 

bellingham wine wine walk and Distillery 

wine 

whatcom walks 

walk 

in downtown, 

wine fairhaven 

trail and tour Distillery 

Aug 4 

and 

trail barkley 

Aug whatcom 

tourvillage 

Aug 4 5 

whatcom wine and Distillery 

Aug six 5course 

wine trail 

six 

and Distillery 

public course gold 

tour 

wine medal tasting 

trail gold 6pm dinner 

tour medal VIP admission 7-10 

dinner Aug 

$75 7-10 5 

Aug six course 

7pm general 

5 

six Aug 

gold Aug 

admission course medal 6 

6 $50 

gold main dinner 

main 

medal event 7-10 

event public wine 

tasting public VIP event wine 

dinner tasting 7-10 VIP event 

admission $75 

admission Aug 6 $75 

Aug begins 

begins 

at 6 6 

at 6 

main hangover event brunch public wine 

main 7-10 tasting 

7-10 General General 

four points event VIP sheraton public event wine 

tasting admission 

admission 

VIP $55 $75 

$55 

event 

four points four points by sheraton by sheraton 

admission begins 

grand grand at 

ballroom ballroom 6$75 

begins 7-10 General at 6 

7-10 Aug 

admission 

Aug General 7 

$55 

four points by sheraton 

7 

admission hangover hangover brunch $55 

grand ballroom brunch at at 

four 

Chinuk 

points 

Restaurant 

by sheraton 

Chinuk Restaurant 

BEL BEL nort 

nor 

nor 

Celebrate 

FE 

Celebrate 20 

grand four points ballroom by sheraton 

Aug 

four 

7points by sheraton 

Aug hangover 7 brunch at 

hangover Chinuk Restaurant 

www.bellinghamnorthw 

brunch at 

four points www.bellinghamnor 

by sheraton 

WHATCOM 

Chinuk Restaurant 

four 

CAITAC 

points 

USA 

by sheraton 

CORP. 

CAITAC USA FOUNDaTION 

CORP. 

Aw 

w 

Awa 

This event is produced by 


The Whatcom Beer & 

Wine Foundation 


CAITAC USA 

CORP. 

CAITAC USA 

CORP. 

BE 

BEL n 

F 

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Celebrate 201 

Open to wineries Awar 

Fo 

Celebrate 20 

Open to wineries from Wa 

For more in 

Open to wineries from W 

For more 

Open to wineries from W 

For more 

Sponsored in part by generous 

grants from Whatcom County 

Tourism and The City of 

Bellingham Tourism Board 

beer & wine

SEATTLE’S LOCAL HIDEAWAY 

THREE FLOORS OF WATER VIEWS 

Join us morning-noon-or-night as we celebrate our 60 year diamond 

anniversary of friendly service, fresh market fare, lively waterfront views, 

and a truly unique Pacific Northwest Seattle experience. 

Whether you choose to start your day with one of our distinctive 

Pacific Northwest or All-American breakfasts, paired with one of our 

fresh hand-crafted and house-infused eye-openers; slide in for a fresh 

market lunch; or decide to join the locals that jump-start their evenings 

by catching the sunset behind Elliot Bay with fresh caught seafood 

appetizers and cocktails before downtown events − we fire it up fresh 

to your order & liking.

1889 June | July new

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