Breeze_Issue_006_Culinary_trends_shaping_the_World

BY COCO COLLECTION
A Tale of Scavengers
& Severance
Of Mystery, Monasteries
& Monks
The Fall of an Island
The Heart of the North
Wonders of
the Maldivian Wetlands
December 2017 | Issue 006
www.cococollection.com

Whether a beginner or a seasoned professional,
there is something for everyone at Dive Ocean. With the expertise and
guidance of our resident team, explore the rich underwater world of the
Maldives and encounter spectacular marine life.
E: info@dive-ocean.com.mv | W: www.dive-ocean.com

Contents
01 / COCO NEWS
What’s cooking at Coco;
news of recent events and
happenings at Coco Collection’s
properties
05 / COCO RECIPE
Santhosh Kumar;
Head Chef at Cornus
Restaurant, Coco Palm
Dhuni Kolhu
Santhosh Kumar, the Head
Chef at Cornus Restaurant, is
one of the reasons why Coco
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Collection is a magical place
for for foodies. We speak with
Santhosh abouthis signature
Thai green curry with prawns.
02 / COVER STORY
Culinary Trends Shaping
the World; the evolution
of the dining experience.
06 / LOCAL CUISINE
Haalu Folhi; The Heart
of the North
What is Haalu Folhi and where
We go on a culinary journey to
did it originate from? How is
seek insight in to the ever-
it made? Why is this delicacy
evolving world of gastronomy,
connected so strongly to the
with a touch on global trends
culture of Kulhudhuffushi?
and we take a look at how these
We travel to Kulhudhuffushi in
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trends have touched the shores
of Maldives.
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search of answers.
03 / COCO FAMILY
Mohamed Shakeel;
a visionary making a
difference
07 / EXPERIENCE
Paola Mattana Lamperti;
an Italian with a
Maldivian soul.
Since his childhood, Mohamed
We interviewed Paola Mattana
Shakeel had dreamt of a career
Lamperti, a woman who first
in the hospitality industry,
visited the Maldives 17 years
and it was his ambition and
ago, and has returned more than
confidence that landed him
60 times since then. And she
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a job as a Housekeeping
Supervisor at the very young
age of 22.
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plans to spend the rest of her
life holidaying in the Maldives.
04 / ISLAND CULTURE
Kulhudhuffushi
Dreaming – impressions
of the Northern City
08 / ECO STORY
Wonders of the Maldivian
Wetlands.
Mangroves are abundant and
Kulhudhuffushi Island of Haa
diverse in some parts of the
Dhaalu Atoll is one of the
Maldives. What are these
biggest and most populous
magical bodies of water and
islands in the north. We take a
what is the role of mangroves
closer look at the sights, sounds
and their historical correlation?
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and cultural uniqueness of the
island.
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What is their current state and
what is being done to ensure
their safety?
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09 / HISTORY
Of Mystery, Monasteries
& Monks
Laamu Atoll is unique for
its remaining Buddhist
13 / NATURE’S GIFTS
Edible herbs of Maldives;
the flavour in our dishes
and the aroma in our
homes
archaeological sites and the
A selection of edible herbs
country’s most ancient texts;
(plants) found on the shores
the copperplates of Isdhoo
of the Maldives, how they are
37
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and Dhanbidhoo, which
contain records of the nation’s
conversion to Islam.
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cultivated and where they can
be found, their characteristics
and how they can be used in our
cuisines.
10 / TRADITION
An intricately woven
history of the past and
present of the Maldives
14 / GADGETS
Two of the best wellnessrelated
food delivery apps
Product review of two food
Maldivians are known for their
delivery apps that are changing
craftsmanship and the coir
the way food is delivered to the
rope is regarded as one of
doorstep, being both wellness
the traditional handicrafts in
centric and affordable.
the Maldives. We look at the
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tedious tasks that go behind the
production of coir rope using
readily available resources; and
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its many uses.
11 / BOOK REVIEW
Zeenaaru : From Naaila,
with love.
15/ ARTS & CULTURE
Keyn; From supplications
to celebrations
A self-taught connoisseur of
The art of making Keyn, a
traditional meals, Naaila Ibrahim
traditional communal feast, its
Kaleyfaan experimented and
characteristics and the cultural
customised her dishes, fusing
and gastronomic aspects. We
elements of foreign recipes
look at what made a deal big
into local dishes and delivered
enough for a Keyn to be called
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this gem of a cookbook to
Maldivian gourmands.
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for and its evolution through
the ages.
12 / FOLKLORE
Keylakunu Bodu Vissaara;
the fall of an island.
16 / SOUVENIR GUIDE
Famushu; Designer
beachwear
This is the story of a fateful day,
A local brand of apparels
long ago, when an island named
and accessories inspired by
Keylakunu was devastated by
traditional Maldivian craftwork
a big storm and to this day, it
and our rich marine life, we
remains in ruins, haunting and
include Famushu products in
woven into the confines of
this edition, paying credit to a
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Maldivian fork lore.
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family of creative individuals.
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17 / NEW RELEASES
Our top tips in upcoming
books, movies and TV.
On the cover
BY COCO COLLECTION
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Page
18 / MIND GYM
19 / TIPS
66
Page
70
Page
Bandaha jehun; a tale of
scavengers and severance.
The Maldivian way of life back
in the day when chasing schools
of fish and being nomads of
the sea was a custom born out
of necessity and how it affected
the culture of our little island
nation.
5 things to do in Malé
City; a guide to keeping
yourself entertained in
the metro.
The best way to experience the
sights and sounds of the hustleand-bustle
of Malé, where to go
and what to do, and how to take
away the best experience during
a day in Malé.
December 2017 | Issue 006
www.cococollection.com
A TAle of ScAvengerS
& SeverAnce
of MySTery, MonASTerieS
& MonkS
The fAll of An iSlAnd
The heArT of The norTh
WonderS of
The MAldiviAn WeTlAndS
The trend of molecular gastronomy,
born from the fusion of food
sciences and gastronomic arts, is all
the rage in the culinary world. The
image, captured by Ahmed Hassaan,
conveys the effort that is now spent
on making food as aesthetically
appealing as possible.
20 / COCO FACTS
Simple facts about Coco
Collection’s properties; Coco
Palm Bodu Hithi and Coco
Palm Duni Kolhu.
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6

Culinary trends shaping the world
Welcome to the sixth issue of Breeze! We hope you
had a wonderful 2017, and wish you and your
loved ones a blessed New Year.
In this issue, we delve into the culture of
the Maldives; including its food, history,
traditions and folklore. Our cover story,
written by Leesha Haneef, explores the
culinary trends that are making waves in the
constantly evolving world of gastronomy and
how these trends have affected the dining experience
at the Coco Collection resorts. And our writer, Mohamed Afrah interviews Mohamed
Shakeel, Housekeeping Supervisor at Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu, whose ambition and
confidence earned him the title at the very young age of 22.
Our writer Nashiu Zahir takes you along on a journey to Kulhudhuffushi as he explores
the island and its hidden treasures with an old friend in tow. And we bring to you a Thai
recipe to include in your family meals, courtesy of our very own Thai food connoisseur,
Santhosh Kumar, the Head Chef at Cornus Restaurant in Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu.
Our writer Fathimath Sham’aa relays to you how Haalu Folhi, a delicious local snack in
the form of a pancake, is made and the supposed origin of how it came about and was
named as so.
In this issue, we are delighted to include an article about one of our guests who has been
frequenting the Maldives for the past 17 years, while being a passionate contributor to
the preservation of our environment. Our writer Sama Nasheed tells the tale of why
Paola Mattana Lamperti has visited the Maldives over 60 times and returns every year to
the same destination, despite having the entire world to sate her wanderlust.
And read up about the beautiful wetlands of the Maldives, while our writer Ahmed
Afruh Rasheed explores the fragile ecosystems of these wetlands and their true
significance in the grand scheme of things, in our eco story. Afruh also writes about the
texts carved on the ancient Loamaafaanu copperplates, that transport us to a time of
authoritative and religious transition in our history, a time swathed in myth and mystery.
Nashiu brings you a thrilling rendition of a folklore that he had learned of during
his stay in Kulhudhuffushi, a tale of premonition, pride and devastation, beautifully
illustrated by Iman Rasheed, while our writer Malasa Mohamed Ibrahim delivers a list of
edible herbs found in the Maldivian flora and their many uses in our homes.
We hope you enjoy the issue and would love to hear from you about your
#CocoMoments so please send us your photos and stories to connect@cococollection.
com.
Happy reading,
Shafa Shabeer
DECEMBER 2017 / ISSUE # 006
EDITORIAL
Shafa Shabeer, Editor
Mohamed Mamduh, Managing Editor –
Perspective Pvt Ltd
Mohamed Afrah, Sub Editor
Sama Nasheed, Feature Writer
breeze@perspective.mv
CONTRIBUTORS
Ahmed Afruh Rasheed, Aminath Ishrath,
Fathimath Sham’aa, Leesha Haneef, Malasa
Mohamed Ibrahim, Munal Shujau, Nashiu
Zahir, Mariyam Manik
ART DIRECTION
Ahmed Shuau (Obofili)
DESIGN
Layout Design: Fathmath Sanoodha
ILLUSTRATIONS
Iman Rasheed
ADVERTISING
Bunaanath Yoosuf, Hussain Jazlaan
sales@perspective.mv
COCO COLLECTION
Lulu Aishath, Senior Marketing Executive
Aminath Ishrath, Marketing & PR Executive
Mariyam Narmeen, Marketing & PR Executive
connect@cococollection.com
www.cococollection.com
PHOTOGRAPHY
Ahmed ‘Maizan’ Manik, Ahmed Shuau (Obofili),
Apple Store, Dhivehi Bahuge Academy, Dho.mv,
Dr Shiham Adam, Hussain Imthiyaz, Ahmed
Mahin Fayaz, Nashiu Zahir, Paola Mattana
Lamperti
COVER PHOTO
Ahmed Hassaan (Hassaan Photography)
Breeze by Coco Collection is produced for:
Sunland Hotels by Perspective Pvt Ltd, Emerald
Building, 3rd Floor, Koli Umar Maniku Goalhi,
Malé, Maldives
www.perspective.mv
© Coco Collection, 2017
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01 / COCO NEWS
Make it a beachy
New Year’s
Here at Coco Bodu Hithi and Coco Palm, we put together a joyous Maldives holiday for you this
festive season. The chefs put their hats together to whip up special treats to surprise you during
the classic-themed buffets, the front office team planned out the tree lighting and decorations, and
the spa put some festive treatments packages.
At Coco Bodu Hithi, we enjoyed active fitness highlights such as aqua yoga. After an amazing
breakfast, guests headed over to the infinity pool to join our yogi Joby, who took them back to the
basics of yoga and meditation with simple postures in the water. Over at Latitude, the pastry chef
is all yours to demonstrate some tips and techniques to create some classic desserts. Who says you
can’t have dessert before lunch!
Over at Coco Palm, guests joined the annual tree lighting ceremony at Conch bar and enjoyed
Glühwein, canapés and festive sweets. And the kids have plenty of activities to be entertained
with during New Year’s as well.. The chefs at Cornus are available to spend some time teaching
the kids to shape their very own cookies from our homemade dough. Enjoy these as a delicious
after-dinner snack, and always feel free to ask for the recipe!
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01 / COCO NEWS
The lucky winner of 7
nights at Coco Bodu Hithi
Congratulations to Timothy Wickens!
In the joyous spirit of Christmas and to celebrate the season of giving, we offered our audience
the opportunity to play an online game for the chance to win a holiday at Coco Bodu Hithi.
Designed to follow the journey of our guest who is out snorkelling at a reef and is keen to leave
the ocean debris free, the game encourages you to help the guest pick up marine debris floating
around the reef, and dispose of them so that they do not harm the marine life. It is also an
opportunity for online visitors to experience our website and discover more about our stylish and
sustainable escapes.
The game encores the commitment we made to raise awareness of the environmental issues in
the Maldives. After having worked together with the Olive Ridley Project for years, in 2014, we
signed an official partnership with the charity to actively fight ghost nets and build turtle centres
in the Maldives. In 2017, the first turtle centre opened at Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu with a resident
veterinarian surgeon.
Once again, Timothy, we are very excited to welcome you to the island soon!
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01 / COCO NEWS
The wait for the
Manta Rays
It’s that time of the year again, and this means that we have another piece of good news for Coco
Bodu Hithi. MANTA RAYS! And surprise surprise, this time, a whale shark dropped by as well!
Approximately from December till April, Manta rays visit North Malé Atoll as part of their
migration around the Maldives. Nearby Coco Bodu Hithi, just 15 minutes away by Dhoni is
Rasfari North reef, a cleaning spot that Manta rays frequent for small fish to clean them. If you
are lucky, there is a chance to spot these mesmerizing rays while snorkelling at this reef.
Reef Manta Rays are mostly solitary creatures, coming together only to mate and feed. When
feeding, they can form loose aggregations of three, and large aggregations of as many as 150
individuals! When a Manta Ray is feeding, the cephalic lobes which are usually rolled like spirals
on either side of their heads are straightened out to help funnel food into their large gaping
mouths.
You can even contribute to our citizen science projects and assist our marine biologist by taking
pictures to identify Manta rays. To identify a Manta Ray, you need to look at its underside as each
individual has a unique pattern of spots on its belly. This ventral view is not only important to
identify individuals but it also reveals the sex of the Manta.
Make sure to book this adventure with Sonia, our Marine Biologist, and have a chat with her to
find out more about these mysterious gentle giants.
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01 / COCO NEWS
Winning big in 2017!
We are celebrating for so many reasons, and it is a pleasure to share some highlights with you.
At the 2017 World Luxury Hotel Awards, Coco Collection won big as the Global Winner in
the category of Luxury Brand. We also won the Regional Winner in the category of Luxury
Collection Group and the Continent Winner in the category of Luxury Management group.
While the brand celebrated as a whole, our properties also excelled with individual awards. Coco
Bodu Hithi celebrated winning the title of Luxury Hideaway Resort in the Indian Ocean. For the
eco conscious luxury resort Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu, the team is overjoyed at winning Luxury
Romantic Beach Resort in the Indian Ocean and Luxury Family Beach Resort in the Maldives
In November 2017, Coco Spa at Coco Bodu Hithi also celebrated winning the Best for Romance
category in the Africa, Indian Ocean and Middle East Region at the 2018 Condé Nast Johansens
Awards for Excellence. Created to acknowledge, reward and celebrate excellence across luxury
spas, these annual awards are a trusted mark of quality, recognised by luxury travellers and
professionals alike.
At the 2017 South Asian Travel Awards (SATA) in October, Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu won the
category of Leading Eco Resort in the Maldives and South Asia region. At the forefront of
initiatives to preserve marine biodiversity, contribute to environmental and social sustainability,
and educate and engage guests, associates and local communities, Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu
continuously strengthens the responsible philosophy embodied by Coco Collection.
Thank you for making 2017 another amazing year for us!
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02 / COVER STORY
Culinary Trends
Shaping the World
the evolution of the dining experience
Leesha Haneef
We’ve got to admit it: the world is bustling with excitement when it
comes to cooking and experimenting with food. It’s not only wellknown
cities like Paris which are exciting to dine in. Food lovers are
experimenting with varieties of ethnic and cultural food around the
world along with interesting new food trends.
In 1765, the first ever modern restaurant of the western world,
“Restaurant Boulanger” was opened in Paris. Since then, within the past
250 years there has been a dramatic change in human behaviour when it
comes to eating preferences.
In today’s world, especially travellers and people living in developed
cities approach food from a new perspective. Rather than treating it as a
form of necessity, most people look forward to enjoy food as an overall
experience. People tend to dine at restaurants frequently. Within the past
few decades, dining has also become one of the most popular forms of
social activity.
Food trends play a substantial role in the way we eat and plan our meals.
As we welcome a new year, we have tracked the most memorable trends
within the culinary world for the year. Some of the biggest trend setters
were;
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02 / COVER STORY
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02 / COVER STORY
Wellness Cuisine
With the emergence of global
awareness towards living a healthy
clean life, the demand for healthy
food has given birth to wellness
cuisine. People are looking to lead a
healthy lifestyle with more authentic,
organic, fresh ingredients which
are unprocessed. Wellness cuisine
attempts minimum interference with
raw ingredients in order to maintain
the nutritional integrity of the dishes
served.
The cooking time is restricted to
ensure that nutrients are preserved
and specific cooking methodologies
such as grilling, roasting, steaming
and poaching are used to reduce
the need for fat. Wellness cuisine
is all about completing a holistic
experience where clients are provided
with specially curated spa cuisine to
help them stay healthy inside and out.
Power to the Plant
Veganism is growing globally and
with it, vegan food trends are
increasing. Vegan diets focus on
plant-based diets. These minimally
processed foods have been linked to
numerous types of health benefits
including the reduced risk of heart
diseases, obesity and diabetes.
Vegetarianism is not a new concept
to the world, however within the
past two decades, many people have
changed their diet to vegan, focusing
on living a healthier, green and
environmentally-friendly life. Today
vegan menus have become a huge
part of the food culture. From luxury
fine-dining restaurants to regular
cafés and street food stalls. You could
easily choose to have a vegan dish
almost anywhere since it has made it
all the way to food trucks around
the world.
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02 / COVER STORY
Molecular Gastronomy
With new technology being
integrated into the world of arts,
the trend has made its way into
the culinary world. Talented and
creative chefs have been inspired to
incorporate their cooking techniques
with ingredients borrowed from
the world of science. Molecular
gastronomy was born from the fusion
of food sciences and gastronomic
arts. It’s a form of scientific alchemy
with food ingredients.
Molecular gastronomy has been
taking up space in all major
cities, especially with fine dining
experiences. Award-winning chefs
and restaurants have been serving
exotically flavoured caviar; attractive
dishes with gravity defying foams;
delicate tiny juice bubbles that
explode with flavour in your mouth.
They are a delight to the eyes, and
beautifully engineered presentations
of food that taste delicious.
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02 / COVER STORY
Upcoming Trends
For the year 2018, some of the major
predictions for food trends include
the dominance of meat and artisanal
butcher shops. Even though there
has been a huge movement towards
vegan food, to counter act it, new
meat centric restaurants are coming
up in major cities like New York and
London.
Another important trend for 2018
is transparency and traceability of
food ingredients. It is predicted that
this trend is to be set throughout the
world as more people are demanding
to get to know the original routes of
their ingredients. They are keen to
know about the farmers who harvest
their greens and want to know who
made the blue cheese they are eating.
They want to be connected to the
producers and want to value their
work while being assured of the
safety standards of the food which
they are consuming.
Global awareness campaigns on
reducing food waste have finally
set-off some positive trends in
creating less food waste. Customers,
as well as restaurants, are committed
to managing food waste and have
a sustainable system within their
establishments. Culinary superstars
are on board, creating awareness
among people along with the
Rockefeller Foundation.
Fortune Radar has predicted some of
the trendiest ingredients which will
be used in the culinary world in 2018.
They include floral flavours, especially
lavender, rose and hibiscus. The elder
flower is said to be the Most Valuable
Petal (MVP) for 2018. In the category
of mushrooms, fungi is making their
way into coffees and teas. The most
popular ethnic cuisine is going to be
Middle Eastern cuisine, introducing
interesting dishes like harissa and
shakshuka. According to them,
it’s high time people move beyond
hummus, pita and falafel when it
comes to Middle Eastern cuisine.
Global food trends have made an
impact on our lives and we will be
taking a closer look at how these
trends have touched the shores of
Maldives. We met with Steven Hill,
the Executive Chef at Coco Bodu
Hithi, to get insights on how the
property has been embracing these
trends.
“We have lots of foodies coming to
Bodu Hithi. Their main interest is
in the cuisine along with the overall
experience of dining,” says Chef
Steve. Coco Bodu Hithi flies their
main ingredients weekly from France,
UK, Singapore and the UAE. The
main locally sourced ingredient is
reef fish.
According to Chef Steve, even
though all the food which they serve
currently are not 100% organic,
they try to get the best quality of
ingredients available in the global
market. Seafood is shipped all the
way from Alaska to the property.
Coco Bodu Hithi is currently working
on launching their very first organic
menu.
“We have an upcoming spa menu,
focusing on the wellness cuisine
trend. The Chef will meet the
guests, enquire about their favourite
ingredients, and come up with
something specialised just for them,”
Chef Steve adds.
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02 / COVER STORY
Coco Bodu Hithi has adapted
molecular gastronomy, especially
serving at the Stars Restaurant &
Bar. It’s a restaurant with a true
European Theme. Some of their best
dishes includes the popping boba,
lemon foam and squid ink tuiles.
The molecular dishes are made using
chemicals & ingredients such as
agar agar, lecithin, kappa, liquid gas,
titanium dioxide and various types
of powders used in the process of
molecular gastronomy. “Molecular
gastronomy is about opening up the
mind about food. It is a fusion of
chemicals and food ingredients to
create something extraordinary and
beautiful,” says Chef Steve.
“I worked in the Maldives 15 years
ago, and then worked in countries
like Seychelles, Mauritius, Singapore,
UAE, Kuwait and parts of the
Caribbean. Compared to then, the
food scene here is massive. It’s huge.
The clientele now is very exclusive.
They are here for quality food,
great products and for an overall
experience. Today the market has
changed. Our guests are not only
from Europe but from the Middle
East, India and China. We have to be
able to adapt to their taste in order to
give them the best experience,” Chef
Steve observes.
Coco Collection is proud to launch
their own label of French Caviar.
Their collection will include three
varieties of Caviar: Oscietra Caviar,
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02 / COVER STORY
Beluga Caviar and Sevruga Caviar.
Recently, Coco Bodu Hithi has
hosted Tom Kitchin, Scotland’s
youngest Michelin starred chef. Bodu
Hithi has also hosted other Michelin
starred chefs and have interesting
pop-up Kitchens happening in the
Island from time to time. Anni’s
Thai pop-up Restaurant serves at the
library located in the Stars Restaurant
once a week. They also have an
Indian Pop-Up restaurant at the
beach serving authentic, traditional
Indian food on banana leaf at the
beach once a week.
We met with the Executive Chef of
Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu, Chef Faiz
Idrees, to cover their experiences of
keeping up with the global trends.
to give them the experience which
they are seeking,” Chef Faiz adds.
In the ever-changing world of food
trends, some are short-lived. Others
are actually good for your health
and can be of long term interest. In
reality, food preferences are subjective
and personal. From brightening up
your meal plates along with your
Instagram feed, to taking your taste
buds on an adventure, these trends
have the power to enhance your
culinary experiences. If you are
adventurous enough, the sky is the
limit for your food choices.
“Upon arrival, I personally meet with
guests to understand their needs.
Since our main restaurant serves
buffet style, if we have any guests
with dietary requirements, we provide
them with the list of ingredients used
on the dishes. So it would be easier
for them to avoid dishes which could
cause them any issues,” says Chef
Faiz. Clients with special dietary
requirements such as vegan, gluten
free or diabetic friendly, are well taken
care of in all the Coco Collection
resorts.
For clients interested in a Farm to
Table experience, Coco Palm Dhuni
Kolhu has a Chef ’s garden where
they grow their own herbs, ladies
fingers, drumsticks, chilies and
lettuce. Special Maldivian dinner
set-up is available right at the chef ’s
garden.
“We need to do our best in keeping
up with the global trends in order
to serve our guests the things which
they are currently interested in. We
have to be able to understand what
our clients are looking for, to be able
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02 / COVER STORY
”
Molecular gastronomy is about
opening up the mind about
food. It is a fusion of chemicals
and food ingredients to create
something extraordinary and
beautiful.
”
19

03 / COCO FAMILY
Mohamed Shakeel
a visionary making a difference
Mohamed Afrah
It was a rainy afternoon in May. The morning downpour had
accentuated all the shades of brown and green of the foliage,
rendering everything more beautiful. Nature had settled for a
slight drizzle, and the sky had yet to open up as I walked
down the winding pathways in search of the Chef ’s
Garden at Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu.
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03 / COCO FAMILY
Treading graciously towards me,
sporting an umbrella in one hand
and wearing a cheerful smile on his
face, is how I find Mohamed Shakeel,
just the man I’ve been looking
for. Soft-spoken and modest, but
perceptive and confident at the same
time, Shakeel was to give me a tour
of the Chef ’s Garden. He had been
recently asked to oversee the garden,
a new responsibility to his role as the
Assistant Executive Housekeeper at
this luxury property in Baa Atoll.
The rain is pelting the palm-thatched
roof of the reception area at Coco
Palm Dhuni Kolhu, where I sit with
Shakeel, asking about his journey
in the hospitality industry. It was at
a very young age when he started
dreaming of building a career in the
hotel industry. “I’ve always wanted
to work in a resort, specifically in
housekeeping. Some of my family
members work in hospitality too.
I guess that’s where my interest
stemmed from,” he tells me,
explaining how his interest in the
hotel business was kindled during his
time in school.
Since then he had been keen on
learning about housekeeping from
a family member who used to work
for a resort near his home island of
Thulhaadhoo. And straight out of
school, it was Hotel School for him
in pursuit of his dream. “As part of
industrial training for my diploma, I
worked for four months at Soneva
Fushi, which was a great learning
experience,” he says.
Shakeel’s entry into the hospitality
industry is what amazed me. It is
not every day when someone as
eager for a role in the housekeeping
department as Shakeel is offered a
job in his dream field. It was Shakeel’s
dedication and confidence that
made up for the lack of experience,
which landed him a job as the
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03 / COCO FAMILY
Housekeeping Supervisor at Coco
Palm Dhuni Kolhu.
“I was confident that I can do it,” he
tells me, and I can’t help but have this
feeling that here sits a man who has
the self-confidence to take on any
role or responsibility, and come out
even more driven and determined
and deliver his fullest. But what
was the source of this confidence, I
wondered.
No one would have expected to be
asked to run a department during
their probation period. But that
was exactly what was asked of
Shakeel just a little over a month
after he joined. “They were the most
challenging times I’ve seen in my
entire career. But I faced it, and gave
it all I got,” he tells me.
Garden.
At this point, I’m very curious to
know what drives this amazing
personality. “Simple, it’s my love
for the hospitality industry. My
determination to warrant the
satisfaction of our guests. Plus, I
can visit my wife and four-year-old
daughter,” he answers, delighted with
the fact that he can visit home twice
a week.
But there is more. Shakeel strongly
believes in Coco Collection’s core
values of care, ownership, connection
and originality. It is no secret that the
home-grown hotel brand perceives its
“It was difficult. It was tough. It was
demanding. But I fared through.
It was such an eye-opener for
me. Firstly, to realise the faith the
management had in me. Secondly, to
fully grasp my capabilities, and come
out with flying colours.”
It was after those fateful one-andhalf
months which made Shakeel
realise his full potential and the fact
that he was not only capable, but he
can ace it when it comes to handling
his responsibilities. “I could not have
made it without the tremendous
support of my staff,” he adds.
It was this dedication and
perseverance that led to Shakeel’s
promotion to his current role as the
Assistant Executive Housekeeper,
allowing him to not let a single detail
be overlooked when it comes to
ensuring guest satisfaction. Currently,
he personally oversees the laundry
and tailoring work, while also
managing room attendants, admin
work, and everything related to the
public areas and manage the Chef ’s
22

03 / COCO FAMILY
team as one big family, and Shakeel is
a sound advocate of this philosophy.
“Coco Collection is one of the best
local companies to build a career at,”
he says.
Why? I ask him. “We’re much bigger
than a team,” he replies. “We’re all
members of a very large family. And
it’s not just the team who feel this
way. The top management also sees
things the same way, and they treat
everyone like family.”
I am not sceptical of this thought,
but Shakeel feels obliged to elaborate.
“I make it a point to see guests off;
be it first-timers, repeaters, or anyone
from top management,” he tells
me of an incident which made him
realise the “one family” feeling.
“On this particular day, I was seeing
off Shabeer Ahmed, our Founder.
Before heading off, he came up to
me and in a very friendly and humble
manner, he told me that the batteries
in the TV remote control in his
apartment needed to be replaced.”
he says.
“I was amazed by the way he handled
it. He chose to treat me with respect
and dignity and informed me of
the issue at hand; just like a family
member or a close friend would do.
That is just a small example of how
close the top management feels about
us.”
Shakeel is proud of the fact that the
management accepts his dedication
and service to the company. But most
of all, it’s his staff that he owes all his
thanks to; for their “understanding,
flexible and helpful nature.”
His biggest dream today? To see
the day when the staff are provided
with the opportunity to seek further
training opportunities, possibly at
hotels and other institutions abroad.
And his advice for anyone pursuing
a career in hospitality is “to be
confident in everything you do. Face
every little challenge with your chin
up.”
Shakeel is a true visionary – someone
who is devoted to his role as a key
member of the Coco family. He says:
“What matters most at the end of
the day is to ensure that everyone is
happy; the guests are happy with our
service, and we are happy to be of
service to our guests.” I am sure to
find Shakeel leading more initiatives
at Coco Collection for many years to
come.
23

04 / ISLAND CULTURE
Kulhudhuffushi
Dreaming
impressions of the northern city
Nashiu Zahir
It’s night when I arrive in Kulhudhuffushi, the 10,000 strong capital of Haa Dhaalu
Atoll, in the far north of the country. The speedboat putters over to the jetty after a
smooth 20-minute ride from Hanimaadhoo. The docks are quiet, there’s hardly anyone
about except my fellow passengers. I was supposed to be on the island by sundown
but my flight from Malé to Hanimaadhoo was delayed by three hours. It’s wise to bear
delays in mind when planning a trip, especially during a rainy period.
24

04 / ISLAND CULTURE
A taxi company is conveniently
advertised on a huge billboard near
the jetty. I dial the number and my
cab arrives in a few minutes. We pass
through stretches of silent, sandy
streets before hitting the smoother
tarmac. Haajy Guesthouse 2, my
home for the next two nights, turns
out to be a three-storey building in
the island’s interior, a few minutes’
drive from the jetty. The guesthouse
manager, Ali Rameez, is by the
entrance to greet me.
before Friday prayers and do the
rest afterwards.” Back in my room,
despite the hard mattress and lumpy
pillows, it doesn’t take me long to fall
asleep.
The next day is bright and sunny, a
far cry from the miserable weather
in Malé. Abdulla picks me up on his
bike and we speed along the main
road towards the beach where he
believes we’re bound to find women
washing coconut husks. The washed
husks are dried and woven into coir
rope. We find one such woman in
the lagoon; her coconut husks have
discoloured the water. I spot some
washed husks drying on the beach,
beyond the reach of the waves.
We get back on the bike and after
a brief ride, stop near a half-built
mosque near the harbour. Abdulla
says it’s the work of a well-known
Kulhudhuffushi businessman. “It’s
taken him seven years to get this far,”
He shows me to my room on the
first floor. It’s simple, like an early
90s middle-class Malé bedroom
with pale green walls, thin green
curtains and mismatched furniture.
There’s no internet, but the room
is air-conditioned with a balcony
overlooking the greenery of a
neighbouring yard. The attached
bathroom is small but clean.
I take a quick shower, get on the
phone and start looking up places to
eat. Scrolling through a few eateries,
I settle on Coffee Hour, call them
up and order a Bami Goreng and a
watermelon juice.
Coffee Hour appears more a house
than a restaurant, with a yard in the
middle and two wings. I take a seat
in a booth in the right wing and tell
the waiter to bring my food. It arrives
quickly. There’s nothing remarkable
about the fare but it is filling. The
meal sets me back by MVR88. It’s
cheaper than two cups of coffee at a
decent café in Malé.
”
We find one such woman in the
lagoon; her coconut husks have
discoloured the water. I spot some
washed husks drying on the beach,
beyond the reach of the waves.
”
Back at the guesthouse, Rameez
introduces me to his friend Abdulla
Mohamed, who’ll show me around
the island. Abdulla is in his early
thirties and seems very excited about
his role.
“There’s a lot to see here,” he says.
“I’ll pick you up at 9 tomorrow
morning, we can explore some bits
25

04 / ISLAND CULTURE
he says. “In that time he’s built vessels
and put them out to sea. The island
folk are very displeased.”
Naturally, the residents have come up
with a snarky name for the mosque:
Masjid al-Las-Las, which roughly
translates to ‘Slow-Slow Mosque.’
We ride around a bit more, Abdulla
showing me certain important places.
One such is the shady, tree-studded
spot where the Saturday Bazaar
is held. It’s empty at this time but
Abdulla says it goes through an
unbelievable transformation on
Saturday mornings. We head towards
the guesthouse and just as I was
about to go inside, somebody calls
me by name. Surprised, I turn around
and it’s Naleef, an old friend of mine.
“What are you doing here?” I ask.
we used to play music together. He
makes some observations about life
in Kulhudhuffushi.
“People are pouring in,” he says. “I’ve
noticed an increase in population
over the past couple of years.”
“Why’s that?”
“Jobs. There’s a lot going on, lots
of businesses. Banks have opened
branches, the telecom companies too.
It’s cheaper to live here so if people
have work they’ll obviously come
here instead of living in Malé.”
However, he seems unhappy with the
direction Kulhudhuffushi is headed.
“We’ve already lost Malé, and I think
that’s exactly what’s going to happen
here,” he says, running his fingers
through his goatee. “The biggest
supplier of motorbikes in the capital
has opened up shop here and soon
these lovely streets will be full of
them.”
We sit in silence for a while then
Naleef asks if I’d like to see a twohundred-year-old
house.
“Yes!”
So we pay the bill, less than MVR50
for a coffee and iced tea, and ride
over to the place. It’s part of a house
called “Reynige” on the island’s west.
“I live here, been here four years,”
he says.
We have a brief chat and he says
he’ll pick me up for coffee in the
afternoon.
Abdulla had invited me to lunch
and we head over to his wife’s house
after Friday prayers. It’s a very typical
old-school island house with a sandy
yard and a swing in the middle on
which lies Abdulla’s youngest, fast
asleep. Lunch is a magnificent affair.
There’s rice, a yellow curry, onion
salad, poppadum and the dry, spicy
chicken that the region is famous for.
Mixed together, the meal has a kind
of piquancy and richness, there’s the
meaty, umami flavour of the chicken,
the sour, sweet spiciness of the salad
with the poppadum adding texture.
People don’t skimp on Fridays.
Then it’s time to meet Naleef. He
arrives on his bike and takes me to a
colourful, whimsical café by the sea
appropriately named Carnival Café.
Naleef is something of a character;
26

04 / ISLAND CULTURE
You can tell it’s from a different time:
the low ceiling is supported by dark
wooden beams, the sort you’ll see in
old mosques. The door frame is of
thick wood. White lime walls appear
through gaps in the house’s objects.
It is unkempt; bags hang from the
rafters, there’s a shelf full of odds
and ends and furniture is scattered
about.
“The place used to house Atoll
Chiefs,” explains Naleef. “It was
beautiful back in the day, though it
takes a bit of work now to imagine
the place in its former glory.”
Back on the road, Naleef says
he wants to show me one of his
favourite parts of the island.
“It’s an older area,” he says. “You’ll
know when we get there.”
We ride for a while and take a turn
from a major road and everything
changes. The lanes become narrow
and intimate. The paths are sandy, the
houses are made of coral stone, their
roofs of worn tin or clay shingles.
There are creepers, morning glory
and passion fruit and others, spilling
out and covering parts of the walls.
A few of these homes have glass
bottles like bulging blue-green eyes
in their facades: old style ‘windows’
to let the light in. There are kinks
in the lanes, sudden twists, dead
ends. It reminds me of the Fort in
Galle, or even the little side-streets in
Bhaktapur, Nepal, and though not as
grand or ancient as the latter, there is
that same magic. The feeling that I’ve
chanced upon something quite out of
the ordinary carries me away.
“Wow,” I say and Naleef turns his
head and grins.
Later, close to sunset, Abdulla and I
head to the mangrove. It’s beautiful
here, the marshy area stretches out
into the distance, the sediment giving
way to water which reflects the fiery
sun. A flock of migratory birds settle
in the water. Dragonflies in their
hundreds, hover and dart above us.
The mangrove is a victim of a certain
idea of progress; a thing of beauty
that the next generation will never
know. It’s being dredged to make
way for an airport, something that
the majority of the island’s residents
believe they dearly need.
The next day, just before my
departure, Naleef and I head towards
the Bazaar. Abdulla was right. From
a sleepy, leafy spot on the outskirts
of the island, it’s become a bustling
market, teeming with men and
women, haggling, inspecting, nodding
their heads and navigating through
arrays of goods. Vendors are seated
by their wares, mostly produce:
mangoes, cucumber, eggplant, chilli,
greens, selling them all by the kilo.
Naleef tells me they even sell parrots
and aquarium fish from time to time.
Not by the kilo, though. For this
special bazaar, people from three
different atolls (Haa Alifu, Shaviyani
and Haa Dhaalu) arrive with their
cargo on board provincial ferries.
The first of these ferries docks at
Kulhudhuffushi around 7.30 am. The
market is usually in full swing by 9
and winds up at noon. The visitors
will leave and in the afternoon the
island will turn quiet again.
27

05 / COCO RECIPE
Santhosh Kumar
Head Chef at Cornus Restaurant,
Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu
Sama Nasheed
Santhosh Kumar, a 28-year-old Thai Specialty Chef from
the hilly terrains of Hyderabad, had his dream realised
when he got the opportunity to work at Coco Palm Dhuni
Kolhu. The charm of emerald canopies and pearl white
shores are unlike anything he had experienced before as
Santhosh had spent most of his life working in bustling
cities.
Born and raised in Hyderabad, a city famed for its
delectable biryani, Santhosh began his career in 2009
after completing his studies at pioneer institute of hotel
management, Osmania University. Isda Thai Hyderabad
was renowned for its delicious Thai food and ambience
and it was there that Santhosh fell in love with Thai
cuisines.
“Thai food tastes unique. The ingredients are strong
and the aromas are significant, similar to south Indian
cuisines.” Working with 11 Chefs from Thailand and with
countless exotic ingredients at his disposal, Santhosh
learned the art of Thai cooking working as a Commis
Chef, the lowest rung on the ladder of becoming a great
Chef.
A year and a half later, Santhosh moved to New Delhi
and began working as a Commis Chef at the East
Restaurant in the highly-acclaimed hotel Westin Gurgaon,
where he learned much under the patronage of the
Executive Chef. He moved back to his own city a year
and a half later and was soon promoted to Demi-Chef de
Partie at the Oriental Bar & Kitchen, the Asian restaurant
in Park Hyatt Hyderabad.
Another year later, he moved to Chennai and worked
as a Chef de Partie at the Flying Elephant Restaurant in
Park Hyatt Chennai and it was there that he learned to
teach the responsibilities of the job, push paperwork and
learned a wide range of recipes.
The frequent moving around helped him experience
different cultures, meet different people and prepared him
for the job of running the kitchen of Coco Palm Dhuni
Kolhu’s Thai restaurant, Cornus, which he began doing
in April 2017. Santhosh loves being able to interact with
guests, is grateful for his background as it shaped him
to be what he is today and hopes to keep moving and
ultimately work in Thailand.
“The more you move, the more you experience… and the
more you learn.”
28

05 / COCO RECIPE
Gaeng Kiew Wan Goong:
Thai green curry with prawns
Ingredients
30 ml Oil
40 gm. Green Curry Paste
400 gm. Coconut Milk
50 gm. Thai Aubergine
30 gm. Pea Aubergine
30 gm. Bamboo Shoot
2 gm. Kaffir Leaves
5 gm. Red Chilli (large)
10 gm. Palm Sugar
20 ml Fish Sauce
150 ml Prawns (cleaned)
15 gm. Basil
Method
1. Heat a pan, add oil, sauté green curry
paste for 2 minutes.
2. Add coconut milk and boil it for a while.
3. Add all the vegetables and boil until the
aubergine is cooked.
4. Add fish sauce and palm sugar and
check seasoning.
5. Finally, add prawns and basil and boil
until prawns are cooked.
6. Garnish with basil and chilli.
7. Serve with hot jasmine rice.
29

06 / LOCAL CUISINE
Haalu Folhi
the “Heart of the North”
Fathmath Sham’aa
It was born out of a woman’s desperate need to feed her children.
According to legend, she was a poor single mother from
Kulhudhuffushi Island, the main population hub of the northernmost
atoll of the Maldives. There were scarcely any ingredients in her pantry
to prepare a proper meal. Forced to make do with what little she had, she
improvised and whipped up a paper-thin pancake.
Her children enjoyed the folhi so much she began making them for
neighbours and friends. According to island lore, she went on to earn
an income from her creation. To this day, the crepe-like delicacy known
as Haalu Folhi is unique to the island of Kulhudhuffushi in Haa Dhaalu
Atoll. It is made nowhere else in the country. Traditionally, whenever
Kulhudhuffushi natives travel to the capital Malé, their parents pack
haalu folhi for the journey.
30

06 / LOCAL CUISINE
Its true origins remain a mystery
and the oldest generation do not
remember a time when haalu folhi
was not made on the island. The
etymology suggests there might
be some truth to the account of
the single-mother-innovator. The
word haalu roughly translates to
hardship or a state of helplessness.
Folhi means pancake, which is
made like an omelette and rolled up.
Haalu belun also refers to checking
after one’s health or wellbeing.
When Kulhudhuffushi people visit
neighbours or relatives, they take the
haalu folhi as a gift.
The haalu folhi is made of rice flour.
It is crispy and translucent and has
the texture of phyllo pastry sheets.
The haalu folhi can be made using
a few simple ingredients. Rice is left
to soak overnight and ground to a
smooth paste with a grinding stone.
The batter is prepared by mixing
the ground rice with water, eggs and
sugar until smooth and strained.
In a separate bowl, coconut oil and
egg yolk are mixed together to make
Theyobis. A round bottom wok is
used to cook the haalu folhi. The
bottom and sides are greased with
the theyobis to prevent sticking, the
batter ladled into the pan, tilting and
turning to completely coat the surface
of the wok.
Haalu folhi was traditionally made
on special wood fire ‘stoves’ similar
to primitive stone ovens. These have
since evolved to cement-covered fire
pits with holes big enough to fit the
bottom of the pan, resembling the
Chinese wok stove.
Haalu folhi is always made in the
morning and left in the sun to dry
for several hours. This process makes
them smooth and crispy. The dried
folhi can be stored indefinitely. To
enhance the taste, it is usually soaked
in sweetened coconut milk.
Over the years, the humble pancake
became a part of the Kulhudhuffushi
identity and culture, synonymous
with the ‘heart of the North.’
31

07 / EXPERIENCE
Paola Mattana Lamperti
an Italian with a Maldivian soul
Sama Nasheed
A Sommelier from a quaint little bar
in Zurich, Switzerland, Italian born
Paola Mattana Lamperti is a warm
and lively woman who harbours
an extraordinary passion for the
Maldives in her heart. She has visited
over 56 resorts in the Maldives and
several local islands in her quest
to discover more about everything
this country has to offer. And her
wanderings have always centred
around her love for the primal
essence of this tropical haven, deep
respect for our culture and her strong
environmental conscience.
Paola’s first visit to the Maldives
was also her honeymoon, which she
and her husband indulged in after
12 years of saving patiently for the
occasion as circumstances prevented
them from enjoying it immediately
after they were married. After over
a decade of anticipation, when
they deemed themselves financially
stable, Paola chose Maldives as
she could not comprehend visiting
any other destination to celebrate
their perseverance and many years
together.
Coming to the Maldives was a life
changing experience for Paola. And
she vowed to return every year
and as often as possible, a vow she
has upheld since the turn of the
millennium, when she first visited
Maldives. Her warm and welcoming
personality has helped her form
strong bonds with many locals and
hers is a familiar face to many who
work in the hospitality industry.
Paola’s respect for the environment
is almost reverent, which is apparent
in the simple act of her accumulating
plastic bottles in her travels within
Maldives and taking them back to
her country to be recycled. She is an
active member of the NGO “Protect
the Maldives”, an initiative that
educates tourists on how to interact
with our fragile environment and how
to conduct themselves when visiting
the inhabited islands of Maldives.
Paola’s strong environmental
conscience prompts her to contribute
to cleaning beaches, planting coconut
trees and being involved in the
Olive Ridley Project Turtle Centre at
Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu, a member
of the Coco Collection resorts.
She devotes her time and effort to
protecting turtle nests and donating
and volunteering for the Olive Ridley
Project, a movement that is dedicated
to protecting turtles, removing ghost
nets that entangle and injure marine
life and educating locals about the
dangers associated with discarded
fishing nets.
32

07 / EXPERIENCE
The Coco Collection resorts hold
a special place in her heart, not just
because she loves their hospitality
but also because of the environment
friendly initiatives undertaken by
their community platform, “Coco
Cares”. The core values of the
movement, being conservation and
sustainability, keep her committed
to action whenever she visits the
Coco Collection resorts and she
has personally removed ghost nets
from the ocean, potentially saving
numerous vulnerable marine life.
The “Coco Cares” initiatives
include coral nursery planting, sea
turtle and manta ray identification
programmes, a Coco Water Bottling
Plant, desalination of seawater
for use in the villas and back-ofhouse
areas, and sustainable fishing
practices. Promoting awareness about
consistent environmental issues
within the region and interacting
with environment enthusiasts to
brainstorm over how the company
can help protect the environment and
its inhabitants are additional activities
pursued within the initiative.
Being a long-term advocate for
environmental causes at Coco
Collection, she is an active member
of their initiative. Aside from
her generous contributions, she
has named a coral, a turtle and a
manta ray in the Maldives. “Visiting
the amazing, natural Maldivian
environment, I am aware of the
impact I have on it, and that impact
must be positive, protective and
genuinely caring,” says Paola. And
she appreciates how much Coco
Collection has inspired her to pursue
environmental causes.
Having visited all the properties
of Coco Collection and having
experienced all that they have to
offer, Paola deems them her favourite
chain and often invites her family
members along for the experience.
She is the go-to person for all things
Maldivian within her circles and she
actively promotes Maldives on online
platforms. Despite her deep affection
for the country, she is expressive
about the negative experiences she
has on her many visits to Maldivian
resorts, often communicating
directly with the resort management
whenever the occasion calls for it.
Her suggestions are often met with
positive feedback and the issues,
improved.
Paola has been witness to the varying
trends of the Maldivian tourism
industry as she has been consistent
with her visits to our sandy shores.
She has seen the service improve
and become more professional.
Resorts embracing décor that is more
minimalistic and unique. Cuisines
expand in variety and exclusivity.
Hoteliers becoming more wellness
centric and conscious of the appeal
in mindfulness. Resorts catering
not just to newlyweds and couples
but also families, groups of friends
and business associates. And above
all else, she has seen the industry
abandon its age-old concept of
“Sun, Sand, Sea and Relaxation” and
steadily adopt the contemporary
concept of nightlife and adventure
holidaying.
Paola’s family and friends often
propose that she accompany them
and visit a country that she has never
been to but to their bewilderment,
she keeps returning to the Maldives.
To Paola, every island has surprises in
store for her. Every resort is a distinct
experience. The people, new and
fascinating. And above all else, Paola
values the solace she is enfolded by
whenever she is on Maldivian shores.
“Coming to the Maldives feels like
coming Home. I love the people and
all the resorts I’ve been to and the
seclusion they offer… and most of
all, I love having the Maldivian sand
beneath my toes.”
33

08 / ECO STORY
Wonders of the
Maldivian Wetlands
Ahmed Afruh Rasheed
The motivations for travelling to Maldives would often be to relax amidst
the ocean breeze on the glistening white sandy beaches, and journey into
one of the most diverse coral reefs on Earth. Little is known to the world of
the wonders of the land, its rich ecosystems and the diverse flora and fauna
that inhabit the lands of Maldives.
A country that is 99% sea, these wonders are often lost in translation, even to
the people who have inhabited the islands for millennia. But the importance of
the Maldivian wetlands, that span across the two thousand isles is crucial to the
survival and balance of these islands.
34

08 / ECO STORY
The wetland systems of the country
vary greatly in terms of size and
composition, and are not found on
all islands. While some atolls lack the
presence of a single wetland, other
atolls see an abundance of mangrove
systems in many of its islands.
These wetlands are normally found
in the Maldives as depressions in the
islands locally known as Kulhi, and
are not uniformly located. Some are
found deep within the mainland,
some along the coast and some even
adjoining the island’s lagoon.
It may be that due to the location of
where the wetland system is situated,
the composition of these mangrove
ecosystems vary diversely, with some
being murky and muddy, while others
appear as deep freshwater ponds.
Some even appear to be crystal clear
with bright white sand.
Travelling to the Southern tip of
Maldives, you will be greeted with
some of the largest mangrove
systems in the Maldives, with the
protected areas of Eedhigali Kilhi
in Hithadhoo of Addu City, and the
Bandaara Kilhi in the neighbouring
Fuvahmulah.
Eedhigali Kilhi is home to an
incredible diversity of migrant and
resident birds, in addition to the
mangrove tree species, mollusks
and crabs common to Maldivian
mangroves. With a brand new
viewing area specially built for
visitors, one can sit for hours on
these decks, immersed in the playful
nature of the hundreds of herons
that call this mangrove system home.
Hithadhoo is also famous for the
sightings of hundreds of fiddler
crabs on the other side of the island.
However, Eedhigali Kilhi does
not have any fiddler crabs, which
is commonly found in mangroves
around the world and are viewed
as essential for breaking down
the mangrove leaves and making
the nutrients available for other
organisms.
The absence of fiddler crabs might
explain the fact that the ground is
covered with germinating javelins of
mangrove propagules in the middle
of the woods in Mulah, Meemu
Atoll, despite the best efforts of
the residents to collect the Kan’doo
(propagules of mangrove species
Bruguiera cylindrical). Several
mangrove species, such as Kan’doo,
are used by Maldivians in their diet
and traditional medicine.
Contrastingly, the other end of
Maldives provides a much different
kind of wetland system, specifically
in Baarah of the Northern most
Haa Alif Atoll. These mangrove
systems, unlike the dark sinking
muddy composition, are bright,
clear and composed of white sand.
This provides a great opportunity
to clearly see the fish species which
”
Several mangrove species, such as Kan’doo,
are used by Maldivians in their diet and
traditional medicine.
”
35

08 / ECO STORY
inhabit these wetlands, and during
difficult times in the islands, locals
often resort to fishing in these
mangroves as a communal activity, to
compensate for the lack of sea fish.
The abundance of the biodiversity
in these mangrove systems, not only
provide food, shelter, medicine and
an important balance to the atoll
ecosystems, but enterprising local
residents have also found ways to
gain economic benefit from the
wetlands in an ecologically sustainable
manner. The wetlands of Fiyory,
Gaafu Dhaalu Atoll, is the only
place where premium quality reeds
(Hau) grow readily in the Maldives.
Generations of Fiyory residents have
been harvesting the reed sustainably
and using it to make their famous
Thun’du Kunaa, a reed mat made in
the Maldives.
These ecosystems also provide
beautiful landscapes where young
and old alike can recharge their
aesthetic and recreational batteries.
Negotiating the thick aerial roots of
the mangroves near the south eastern
coastal ridge of Nolhivaram, Haa
Dhaalu Atoll, is well worth the effort.
The green-hued serenity of the pond
surrounded by the thick growth of
mangroves gives welcome respite
from the hustle and bustle of the
outside world.
The unique landscapes of these
habitats have fuelled the imagination
and provided recreation for countless
generations of Maldivians. The
famous Paree Fengandu in Laamu
Atoll is one such example, where
folklore dictates that fairies often
visit this breath-taking lake in the
middle of the island, to bathe in the
moonlight. Tales are also often told
of how the lake’s depth is infinite and
if you dive into it, you will emerge in
the deep sea to the South of the atoll.
While these wonderful wetlands
provide benefits that are quantifiable,
the true magnitude of these
ecosystems are only fully appreciable
in times of devastation. Although,
these wetlands have proved over
time to be steadfast in protecting
the islands from strong winds and
wave surges, the 2004 Indian Ocean
tsunami that destroyed a great
portion of the Maldivian islands shed
new light into how islands with these
mangrove ecosystems proved resilient
to the destruction.
Reportedly, the large wetlands of
Kendhikulhodhoo, Noonu Atoll and
Fonadhoo, Shaviyani Atoll provided
protection from the tsunami, which
badly devastated the nearby island
of Maafaru, with similar physical
characteristics.
The value of these unique
ecosystems is not equally appreciated
by everyone. As habitable land is
exceedingly precious in the Maldives,
wetlands - often viewed as an
extravagant waste of precious land,
inevitably face extreme pressure from
development projects throughout the
country.
As awareness increase on the vital
balance these wetlands provide both
environmentally and economically,
forward thinking locals are finding
more ways to make the best
sustainable use of these ecosystems.
Ecotourism has proved to be one of
the newest feats that reap the benefits
of these mangrove systems, and more
and more islands are now initiating
campaigns to protect these wonderful
wetlands of the Maldives.
36

09 / HISTORY
Of Mystery,
Monasteries & Monks
unravelling the history of Maldives, through
the Isdhoo Dhan’bidhoo Loamaafaanu
Ahmed Afruh Rasheed
Although inhabited for over two millennia, the earliest
history of the Maldive islands remain a great mystery
shrouded in myth and folklore. The geography of the
nation’s formation and the monsoons that frequent the
islands haven’t helped either, with much of its ancient
history, being just that; history! But one atoll plays a very
crucial role in finding answers to many of the questions
on the early life of Maldivians; Haddhunmathi or more
commonly referred to as Laamu Atoll.
Of Mystery and Myth
“The early history of the Maldives remains enigmatic
and shrouded in mystery,” writes Andrew D. W. Forbes,
one of the few scholars who attempted to unravel the
many unanswered questions of who the first settlers
of Maldives were. His sentiments of how cloudy the
ancient traditions and life of Maldives were is repeated
by the archaeologists and historians who
have investigated the history of
Maldives.
While the earliest mention of Maldives is found in
Buddhist Jakatas and in Sri Lankan texts, describing a
group of exiles that arrived in Sri Lanka around 300 – 250
B.C, the next mention of Maldives occurs in records of
Roman and Greek writers covering the period 90 – 522
A. D. Chinese documents from 658 and 662 A.D also
indicate visits by ambassadors of a Maldivian King named
Baladitya, bringing gifts to the Emperor of China. Later
writings by Arab and Persian travellers, also mentioning
Maldives, suggest that ancient Maldivians were expert
seafarers who travelled and had relations with the
dominant civilizations of the eras.
Until 1922, following an extensive excavation by H.C.P.
Bell, the Archaeological Commissioner of neighbouring
Sri Lanka, the pre-Islamic
life of Maldivians were
a tale of folklore,
stories of
how a
37

09 / HISTORY
wandering Arab merchant defeated a sea-monster who
came to the shores of the idol worshiping folk, who
in turn embraced Islam as their religion in 1153 A.D.
The exact religious beliefs the people held for the larger
part of the two millennia is unknown. Poetic folklore
suggests it to be sun worshippers who first dwelled the
islands. This notion has had no scientific or archaeological
justification to it and is widely disregarded by historians.
The translation of a late 12th century copperplate (locally
referred to as Loamaafaanu) in 1922 was the first and
most accurate Dhivehi record that sheds light on the
beliefs of the Maldivians, right before the conversion to
Islam in 1153 A.D. These earliest copperplates found in
the islands of Isdhoo and Dhan’bidhoo of Haddhunmathi
Atoll written in 1195 A.D. and 1196 A.D respectively,
confirmed the notion that Buddhism was the religion
practiced in Maldives prior to the conversion to Islam.
Historian Naseema Mohamed writes that the copper
plates are specifically records of grants given by the ruling
king to individual mosques, bestowing them the benefits
from various islands for their expenditure and upkeep.
The most significant find from the Isdhoo and
Dhanbidhoo copperplates shed light onto the ancient
rulers of the Maldives and their ancestry. The first
king named in the grants are of “the great King, Shri
Mahaabarana of the noble house of Theemuge, the
lord of the prosperous Luna Dynasty” who ascended
to the throne circa 1118 A.D. The grants refer to him
as becoming the “King of the entire country” which
Naseema suggests might be the legendary figure of
Kaimala Kalo (Koimala Kalo) who unified the islands
under one kingdom. This implies the Maldives to have
been a country of individual-rule, prior to the unification
of the atolls under the first king of the Theemuge
Dynasty which reigned over Maldives from c1118 A.D to
c.1388 A.D.
King Shri Mahaabarana was succeeded by his nephew
King Swasthi Shri Tribhuvana Aadheethiya, during whose
reign, in 1153 A.D., the Maldives embraced Islam. The
copperplate grants also mention ministers in Male’ as
witnesses, some of these titles which existed till the midtwentieth
century, suggesting a long systematic rule over
the entire nation. The information also suggests that even
though travel was difficult and time-consuming between
the further atolls, the rulers in Male’ were aware of the
developments in other islands and that the principal island
had responsibilities towards the distant islands of the
kingdom.
As these copperplate grants were also instructions, the
ancient relics also shed light on how land was granted
and inherited. Inscriptions on the Isdhoo Loamaafaanu
describe how a dwelling for one of the eminent families
in the island should be constructed, including instructions
to cover the walls with Chinese Silk. This suggests that
(along with the fact that Chinese silk was a common
commodity in Maldives) ancient Maldives practised a
system of a land-grant to families where these properties
also remained within the families through a matrilineal
system of inheritance.
Both Isdhoo and Dhan’bidhoo Loamaafaanu is written
is Eveyla script, in older Dhivehi, shedding light into the
unique language of the Maldives, before it was influenced
by the linguistic changes from Persian, Arabic and
European languages. The inscriptions also suggest that the
way of life of the Maldivians was a matriarchal system, of
class distinctions instead of the caste system in existence
in many other neighbouring South Asian Countries.
Of Monasteries and Monks
A more comprehensive translation of the Isdhoo and
Dhan’bidhoo copperplate grants were undertaken in
1982 and in 1986, which opened up a whole new era of
historical research and archaeological excavations.
The Dhan’bidhoo Loamaafaanu describe the events of
the destruction of the monasteries in the island under
the instructions of the reigning King, Sri Gadanaaditiya,
who instructed the dismantling of the monastery and
the building of a mosque in its place. The copperplates
38

09 / HISTORY
also include descriptions of how the monks of the
monasteries were disbanded and sent to male’ to be
beheaded, and that the chief clans of the islands were
identified and grouped to carry out government duties.
This practice suggests that Maldivians practised a system
of destroying old religious structures and constructing
new places of worship on top of it, which has shed
light into the earliest times where Maldives might have
practised other religious beliefs prior to the pre-Buddhist
era.
The atoll of Haddhunmathi is home to one of the largest
number of ancient remnants, having the two largest
stupas in surviving to date. According to H.C.P. Bell,
the first reference to archaeological sites in Maldives was
made in 1835, by two English naval officers, who were
told by a Buddhist priest, “well-read in Sinhalese books,
that two noted Temples of Buddha” formerly existed in
the Maldives, though no official archaeological evidence
suggests the stupas in Haddhunmathi atoll to be the
temples mentioned by the officers.
The practice of destroying existing religious sites to build
new ones atop of it, as mentioned in the Dhan’bidhoo
Loamaafaanu, might be a reason for the lack of evidence
and information on the pre-Buddhist period. Later
archaeological excavations on Buddhist mounds have
unearthed numerous evidence that suggest Maldivians
might have also practised Hinduism in a bygone era,
evident by a carved coral phallus, and carvings on
Buddhist relics that also had carvings of Hindu deities
Siva, Lakshmi, Kubera and sage Agasthiya.
While the discovery of the Isdhoo and Dhan’bidhoo
copperplate grants; the earliest records of Maldivian
history, and the many archaeological expeditions that
followed, confirm that a Buddhist culture was in place
prior to the conversion to Islam in 1153A.D, the majority
of the history of Maldives still remain a mystery.
39

10 / TRADITION
40

10 / TRADITION
An intricately woven
history of the Maldives
Munal Shujau
“Naa Hulhangun vanna irah,
Kadhuru thafaaleh gannan,
Roanu ekkuramaayo”
Verses from a traditional poem or ‘bandhi’ speak about the trade of coir
rope with Arab travellers
The Maldivian archipelago spread over the Indian Ocean consists
of a trail of scattered little islands, rising just over one meter
above sea level. The delicate geography of the islands might deceive
an onlooker, but its inhabitants have survived for thousands of years
through the use of ingenious methods.
41

10 / TRADITION
A wealth of natural resources found
on the islands underpinned a growing
population. It was their source of
income and cultural identity. Among
the many riches was the coconut
palm - a primary asset providing all
necessities of life - food, drink, fibres,
fuel and building material. Coir rope
or “roanu” – as the locals called it –
is a widely used by-product of the
coconut palms’ fibrous fruit.
In the olden times, coir rope played
a vital role in a Maldivian’s daily
life. According to the Maldivian
scholar late Ahmed Shafeeq,
who documented a collection of
traditional craftwork, the coir rope
was used in building huts, farming,
building boats or “dhonis” and in
“raaverikan” (tapping toddy). Today, it
is rarely used so and is mostly applied
in architectural decoration and in
traditional handicraft objects.
The patient and skilled womenfolk
dedicated themselves to a tediously
manual process in the creation of
this robust rope. It starts with the
husks of ripe coconuts being buried
in the beach, within reach of the
lapping sea waves and is left to ret
for three to four weeks. The women
have selective locations marked on
the beach, called “bombifaa” where
they would bury the husks. Once they
are ready, the softened husks are dug
up and pounded with a wooden club
on a chair, separating the fibres. This
process is called “bombithelhun”. The
strands are neatly cleaned, washed in
seawater and left to dry in the sun.
“After the drying process, the women
roll the fibres into thicker strands
called ‘leeli’,” says Abdullah Sodiq,
a Maldivian scholar and historian.
The strands are spun together on
the thighs and are doubled with their
hands. “The hands of the women are
rough because of spinning the rough
coir,” Sodiq explains. “There are
42

10 / TRADITION
different types of coir ropes,” he says.
“The quality and style of the coir
depend on its purpose”.
In Ahmed Shafeeq’s documentation,
there were eight different types
identified:
1- “Bodu roanu” – used to build
forts.
2- “Fala roanu” – a strong rope
that can be used to tighten
anything with a single layer.
3- “Medhu roanu” – for fastening
with several layers of rope.
4- “Hima roanu” – a fine yet
strong coir rope that is used to
tighten and secure.
5- “Ras roanu” – for weaving
thatch mats.
6- “Halhangu roanu” – used to
secure and hold a boat’s structure.
7- “Funge roanu” – used to weave
thatch mats.
8- “Kaddevi roanu” – commonly
used in traditional handicraft
objects.
According to his book, it is
documented that the rope was used
before the year 1077. The Maldivians
are renowned for their coir rope and
natives to Kulhudhuffushi Island of
Haa Alif Atoll were praised for their
neatly woven fine rope.
“Today, the use of coir rope is
very rare. People do not use it to
build houses anymore, but is used
commonly in resorts,” says Sodiq.
A rope that was originally created
to hold and fasten houses and boats
is now solely used for exhibitive
purposes – ostentatiously wrapped
around columns, tables and chairs
of resorts and restaurant interiors.
Serving as a decorative ornament, the
rope is also used in souvenirs.
“Coir rope making or other
traditional work like basket weaving
is not done with machines here, but
other neighbouring countries have
started to make them with machines
which makes it faster and easier,” said
a dispirited Sodiq. “The possibility
is that we might not see traditional
craftwork like coir rope in the
future,” he adds.
Women sitting together in groups
under the shade of tropical trees,
conversing happily while weaving
rope was a common sight in islands
like Kulhudhufushi, a sight that many
of us still cherish and wish to see
revived.
As well as being the main element
that was widely used within the
country, the Maldives also traded
their ropes with other countries. It is
said that the first records of coir rope
export were documented as early
as 1860. The ‘bandhi’ or short poem
recited back in the day was about the
barter of ropes for dates with the
Arabs. Trading countries included
Yemen, the Persian Gulf and even
China where the rope was considered
one of the finest and was highly
priced.
43

11 / BOOK REVIEW
“Zeenaaru”
from Naaila, with love!
Sama Nasheed
The minute I saw the cover of “Zeenaaru”, I felt myself
being transported back in time to sunlit afternoons
in my kitchen where I sat on a red stool helping my
mom prepare breakfast meals during Ramadan. I don’t
remember a time when that book hasn’t been in my
mom’s possession and lying on the kitchen table, some
pages splattered with dried drops of sauce and some
pages marked with bent corners. The book is a treasure.
It taught her many a recipe that I still savour, two decades
later.
“Good food is the strongest magic to capturing the
heart”. The epigraph on Naaila Ibrahim Kaleyfaan’s book
of compiled recipes speaks volumes about her love and
deep understanding of the craft of cooking. “Zeenaru”
was published 30 years ago and it is a revered manual
that has helped many Maldivians hone their skill in the
kitchen and taught them recipes that my generation grew
up relishing, eventually learned and are now meals that
frequent our own kitchen tables and our own children
enjoy.
The eldest child of late Dhih’dhoo Ibrahim Kaleyfaan,
Naaila spent fifteen years of her life studying abroad,
ten years in Sri Lanka and five, in New Zealand. She
returned to Maldives in 1972, married Dr Mohamed
Zahir Hussain, the former Minister of Education as well
as the Minister of Youth and Sports of the Maldives
during the presidency of Maumoon Abdul Gayyoom, and
started a family back in her hometown. It was only after
she got married that she began exploring her hitherto
undiscovered talent in the kitchen. She started emulating
recipes she found in various books and personalised them
to suit her taste, eventually learning to create her own
dishes.
Over the years, she learned to prepare many varieties of
local dishes and foreign cuisine and her dishes were always
on the menu whenever her friends had a get-together and
shared a meal. And it wasn’t just her friends who desired
her cooking. She was renowned for her talent among her
many acquaintances.
44

11 / BOOK REVIEW
It was with her friends’ support and her own desire
to share the taste of the recipes she had learned and
improved, that she decided to compile and publish
“Zeenaaru”. The title of the cookbook was derived
from the Maldivian dessert of the same name by the
celebrated poet, late Mohamed Jameel Didi, and the recipe
of the dessert itself is within the contents of the book.
“Zeenaaru” has been published seven times over the past
three decades, the last publication in 2002, and was sold
out every time. It is a renowned guide of local cuisines
that generations of Maldivians swear by.
Though majority of locals believe that Maldivian dishes
are rare and limited, Naaila contradicts the assumption
by the idea of mixing things up and experimenting. Her
daughters, Leena and Lubna Zahir Hussain, grew up
observing their mother’s unconventional methods of
cooking.
Leena explains how her mother made Pumpkin Halva
(Baraboa Halva), a traditional dessert: “She has this piece
of white fabric that she’s very careful with. It’s used to
drain the liquid during the process of making the halva.
The pumpkin is first soaked in water to make it tender and
crushed once it’s cooked. Then comes the part where the
white fabric is used. She arranges the crushed pumpkins
in the centre, ties up the ends and hangs it on one of the
wooden planks in our home. A large container is kept
below it to drain the water from the pumpkins overnight
and by morning, the pumpkins would be dry.”
She then explains how her mother presented the halva:
“Though our kitchen was fully equipped with modern
appliances, she had a traditional wood burning stove
installed. When she stirred the contents of the halva, the
aroma of cinnamon and cardamom would sweep through
the entire house. Once the halva is made, she would hand
us our slices in the pieces of paper she made us cut in a
specific size, a paper she bought from Novelty, our local
book and stationery shop. She wouldn’t let us touch the
halva with our bare hands. It had to be eaten with a sense
of decorum.”
Aside from her expertise in the kitchen, Naaila dedicated
25 years of her life to teaching History and English
Language at Aminiya School, while juggling multiple
administrative responsibilities at the all-girls secondary
school. And though she had domestic helpers, she spent
many hours in the kitchen, making food simply for the
pure joy of it. With years of experimenting in the kitchen
and the love of cooking, Naaila delivered a gem of a
cookbook that several generations of Maldivians are
grateful for.
45

12 / FORKLORE
46

12 / FORKLORE
Keylakunu
Bodu Vissaara
fall of an island
Nashiu Zahir
Keylakunu is an island near Kulhudhuffushi Island in Haa Dhaalu Atoll.
The island was once populated but legend has it that the “Bodu
Vissaara” (big storm) cleansed the island of its residents many
years ago. The people of Kulhudhuffushi believe the
calamity struck because the head Mawlood reciter
and his followers wasted a feast prepared on the
occasion of the Prophet’s birthday. This
retelling illustrates the mystical beliefs
concerning nature and causation
prevalent at the time. Such beliefs
have not been extinguished
from the hearts of
Maldivians and there
they remain to
this day.
47

12 / FORKLORE
Mohamed, the leader of the Mawlood group in
Keylakunu, was having trouble finding his turban. He
looked in the wardrobe, in his big chest, even under the
bed.
“Sampa!” he called his wife.
She appeared in the doorway, looking concerned.
“Have you seen my turban?”
“Mohamed, forget about the Mawlood today,” she said.
“What are you saying?”
“You heard me,” Sampa said tugging at the hem of her
green Libaas.
“For heaven’s sake, woman. Just help me find my turban.”
“You’re not listening.”
“What is this about? Do you have something to do with
my missing turban?” Mohamed walked towards his wife,
frustration wrinkling his face.
“Come. Sit.” Said Sampa moving towards the long bench
in the yard.
“If you have something to do with this…”
“Mohamed, listen to me,” said Sampa taking Mohamed’s
hand in hers. “I had a dream. I was there by the Mawlood
hut. You were acting aloof, ignoring me and chatting with
your friends. I saw storm clouds gather over the island.
Oh, Mohamed, it was like nothing I had ever seen. The
sky was near black. Lightning struck the trees, turning
them to ash. And that terrible sound afterwards. It was as
if the world was being torn apart. Then the wind picked
up. It was vicious, this wind, I knew nothing good would
come of it. And I saw it in the distance. The whirlwind, all
white from the water it had drunk. It was coming for us,
Mohamed. And then all of you looked and screamed and
it drank us up like we were water. Mohamed. Let’s not–”
“Sampa, you foolish woman,” said Mohamed withdrawing
his hand from hers and shaking his head irritably.
“I can’t let you go today, Mohamed.”
“Where is my turban?” said Mohamed, his brows deeply
furrowed. “Tell me. Where is it? I know you’ve hidden it.”
“You won’t find it,” said Sampa, grabbing Mohamed’s
arm.
Freeing himself of Sampa’s grip, Mohamed stormed
out of the house and headed towards the hut where his
friends had gathered in their best white shirts and Mundus
(sarongs). The incense sticks were in vases, unlit, on a
long wooden table. On it were large, covered pots full of
rice and chicken curry and dry curried goat and breadfruit
pudding.
In a rage, Mohamed upturned a pot. His friends were
alarmed.
“What’s the matter Mohamed?” asked one Ibrahim Fulhu,
a close friend of Mohamed’s. “What’s going on?”
“I’ll tell you what’s going on,” barked Mohamed. “My
turban is missing. I cannot lead this Mawlood without it.
If I cannot lead, no one will. This feast is good only for
the crows.”
He resumed his work. As Mohamed was held in high
regard, others followed suit, turning over the remaining
pots in a frenzy, letting the contents spill onto the soil.
Soon nothing remained in the pots. His anger subdued,
Mohamed sat on the bench by the table and looked at
the sea. A storm was brewing; the horizon was lined with
heavy cloud. The breeze picked up, a strong, cool gust
made the palms rustle.
“Looks like it’s going to rain,” said Mohamed.
“Let’s head back.”
By the time Mohamed returned home, he was feeling
ashamed of his actions.
“Sampa!” he called, going over to the yard. He received
no answer. He called again and Khadeeja, their neighbour,
came out of their kitchen, a piece of smoked fish in her
hand.
“She’s gone to Kulhudhuffushi on Dhon Maniku’s boat,”
she said.
Mohamed’s mood shifted. He became angry once more
and went muttering to his room. He closed the door, took
off his white long-sleeved shirt, folded it and put it in the
chest. Then he lay down on his bed and went to sleep.
He was awakened by a clap of thunder so loud that it left
his ears ringing.
48

12 / FORKLORE
He sprang out of bed and ran to take a look outside. It
was afternoon but the world seemed twilit. The sky was
ashen, the clouds darker than he ever recalled. The big
breadfruit tree next door had shed several of its thick
branches. The wind was fierce. He heard a loud clickclacking
and looked towards his room. The clay shingles
of the roof were being blown off. A fresh onslaught
of rain drenched Mohamed as he stood stricken by the
entrance to his house.
Some islanders had come out of their homes and were
looking down the road towards the sea, pointing. Then he
saw it: a long grey snake connecting sky to sea, a twisting
umbilical cord, approaching the island from the ocean.
Mohamed’s heart leapt into the back of his throat. A
whirlwind! He had never seen one but he had heard the
stories. Sampa’s dream, he thought. It’s coming true! It’s
really happening! The storm of ages was upon the island.
“Dear God!” Mohamed cried. “Help! Help!”
His cries were lost in the wind and Mohamed was dragged
screaming into the eye of the storm. It was so ferocious
it cleansed the island of its inhabitants before the day
was out. Only people like Sampa, who had sought refuge
elsewhere, were safe.
Sampa never returned to Keylakunu; word of the storm
was enough to make her stay away from the island for
the remainder of her life. She settled down instead in
neighbouring Kulhudhuffushi where she lived until her
death.
Keylakunu remains uninhabited to this day, a caution,
the elders say, against pride and wastefulness. There are
some structures on the island indicating it had once been
populated. Certain elderly Kulhudhuffushi people believe
the storm had carried a few Keylakunu residents to far off
islands. Whatever the case, the story of the Bodu Vissaara
is one that the residents of Kulhudhuffushi will tell for
time to come.
49

13 / NATURE’S GIFT
Edible Herbs of Maldives
the flavour in our dishes and the
aroma in our homes
Malasa Mohamed Ibrahim
From a bird’s-eye view, the archipelago of scattered luscious garden surrounded by white
sandy beaches, Maldives is surely a tropic lover’s heaven. Since a long time ago, the pearl
like islands have been very much secluded and locals prepared their meals solely from
the nature’s gifts surrounding them. And thankfully, Mother Nature has blessed
us with a fruitful bounty. From the tallest coconut palms, to the smallest weeds
and shrubs, locals have long been harvesting and preparing their own food.
What’s more, we thoroughly enjoy finding creative ways to bring out the
aroma and flavour of our herbs to the dining table!
Hikandhi faiy (Curry leaves)
The curry tree is a tropical to sub-tropical tree native to
India and Sri Lanka. Often used in curries, the leaves are
generally called by the name ‘curry leaves’. The glossy
green leaves grow pinnately along a stem with 11-21
leaflets and each leaflet about 2-4cm long and 1-2cm
broad. These leaves are an essential component in a
variety of Southeast Asian cuisines, adding a very distinct
flavour and aroma to the dishes
Packed with numerous nutrients, curry leaves are
also widely popular for their medicinal uses. They are
considered anti-microbial, anti-inflammatory and even
anti-diabetic. Traditionally, curry leaves are fried in oil in
the cooking pan before any other ingredients are added.
The strong flavours of the leaves bring a touch of the
traditional seasoning to the dining table.
50

13 / NATURE’S GIFT
Ku’lhafilaa Faiy (Launaealeaves)
Originating from the Ethiopian highlands, the Yanrin
leaves are considered a leafy vegetable in Nigeria and
is grown as a weed. It is a perennial herb with an erect
stem that is often woody at the base. At the base of the
stem, the leaves take a rosette form while higher leaves
are auriculate and toothed. In many Maldivian islands,
it can often be found growing on the roadside or near
sandbanks as a wild plant.
Eaten fresh as a salad or used as the key ingredient in
‘kulhafilaa faiy mashuni’, a local side dish composed of a
mix of the Yanrin leaf, coconut shavings, onion, chilli and
tuna, Maldivians have been well acquainted with the subtle
sour taste of these leaves. In some islands, it is cultivated
among fresh produce and brought to the local market
where it lies in abundance.
Kaasinjee Faiy (Lemongrass)
Lemongrass is a tropical herb packed with strong
citrus flavour which is prized for its many purposes.
Its appearance rivals that of many ordinary grasses
and can easily fulfil a similar role in the landscape. First
commercial cultivation of lemon grass was reported in
Florida, USA and Haiti in 1947. To be minced and mixed
in food or cultivated for its oil, lemon grass has surely
marked its importance in the food industry, perfumeries
and even pharmaceutical areas.
The heart or the bulb within the base of the plant is
mostly used as an ingredient in Southeast Asian cuisines.
Maldivians have been adding lemon grass to curries and
other dishes while cooking as a citrus substitute. The
leaves can also be steeped in hot water for an aromatic
lemon tea. Some people prefer dried leaves because they
give a mute flavour compared to the strong citrus of the
fresh leaves.
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13 / NATURE’S GIFT
Kudheena Faiy (Mint Leaves)
Easy to grow and a favourite of many gardeners, the mint
plant is rumoured to have got its name from a mythical
creature, the nymph called minthe. Appropriately, mint is
also known as menthe and is remarkable for its creeping
habit and pungent odour. Among the 24-true species,
most mint plants are perennials and favour slightly damp
soil to grow.
The essential oils of mints are used in perfumery while
some species are commonly found in herbal medicine.
Widely popular due to its calming and soothing properties,
this herb can be fatal in higher doses. Menthol essential
oil can dramatically lower blood pressure and should
be consumed in therapeutic doses. This being said,
peppermint and spearmint make the best herbal teas
served ice or hot. So, sit back and enjoy a refreshing mint
tea to regain your soothing powers.
Raanbaa Faiy (Pandan Leaves)
The plant got its name screw pine leaf from English
traders to Asia. Native to Asia and tropical parts of
Australia, the pandan plant grows upright and has sleek,
narrow leaves spraying outwards. Known to be sterile and
propagated by cutting, the plant adopts a dark green hue
and has a strong nutty aroma. Pandan leaves lend a unique
taste and aroma to both sweet and savoury dishes.
Also called screw-pine, pandan juice is extracted by
processing the leaves with liquid and infused in dishes.
Pandan leaves can also be found dried in areca nuts
considered as the best quality homemade nuts available
locally.
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13 / NATURE’S GIFT
Dhiguthiyara Faiy (Coffee Senna)
A plant of pantropical nature native to tropical America,
‘dhiguthiyara’ is a branching erect shrub with pinnate
pubescent leaves. Thriving in warm and dry climate and
the occasional drizzle for good growth, the small plant can
be seen on the tropical shores of Maldives.
In Unani, Ayurvedic and Allopathic medicines, the senna
is a well-known drug usually administered as an infusion
and considered a great tonic. Besides being used as an
excellent laxative, it is employed in the treatment of
amoebic dysentery and used as a mild liver stimulant.
Interestingly, the plant can be used as a coffee substitute
without the caffeine properties. Maldivians however, have
been using ‘dhiguthiyara’ to make salad and eaten fresh.
Massaagu Faiy (Cockscomb Leaves)
Alternating between plants of green and beetroot red,
‘massagu’ plant is an eye-catcher native to many regions
including the slopes of Africa and India. Easy to grow
from seeds either indoors or outdoors, they grow best
when mulched. Its leaves, stem and even little flowers is
a popular ingredient in soups and stews. Locals prepare
omelette, salad and curry from the leaves.
When eaten young, they are a great source of protein and
have a spinach-like flavour. Better known as the beautiful
vegetable, the cockscomb flower is an amazing garnish
on salads and dressings. With medicinal properties,
such as strengthening immune system and acting as
an antioxidant, it is a good thing we have the herbs in
abundance in the local market.
53

14 / GADGETS
Best wellness-related food
delivery service apps
Mariyam Manik
Feeling a little full of holiday fun? If the “new year, new you” mantra is
echoing in your ears, but your non-existent organizational skills or culinary
talents are holding you back from embracing healthy living, there are hosts
of companies out there literally rushing to your rescue. We reviewed two
of the best wellness-related food delivery services out there, promising you
feel-good food, fuss free.
54

14 / GADGETS
CookUnity
A new sector is booming: the business of delivering restaurant
meals to the home is undergoing rapid change as new online
platforms race to capture markets across America. A start-up
that recently launched in New York City that’s catering to the
demographic is a tech-meets culinary savvy business: CookUnity.
CookUnity delivers to New York City and a part of Manhattan,
five days a week. A factor for CookUnity’s success is choice;
customers choose from a changing menu of options with more
than 20 balanced handcrafted meal options a day. The CookUnity
app utilizes an easy, fast method of payment with a bounty of
information at your fingertips. With prices ranging from $9-14 a
serving, prepared food from the CookUnity’s team is picked up
and stored in distribution locations around the city. This techmeets-distribution
efficiency for food delivery app CookUnity
is a great example of a hyper-local food service, which is geared
towards a digital and urban economy.
Fresh&co
The Fresh&co app offers a wide array of vegetarian, vegan-and
gluten-free menu options which are reasonably priced. The app,
which is based on chef-inspired seasonal organic food, caters
to locations throughout New York. From chef designed salads
and homemade soups, to sandwiches, market fresh bowls and
cold pressed juices, Fresh&co is the go-to spot for hungry newyorkers
who want a meal fast. Founded in 2010, the ingredients
for Fresh&co come from its own farms as well as farms in
Hudson Valley and Long Island. Fresh&co’s works closely with
its farmers to foster a unique farm-to-desk connection. The
Fresh&co app provides your rewards balance, track purchases
and a way to stay up to .date with important Fresh&co news.
The Fresh&co app which is available in all of its NYC locations
provides a method to accumulate points that you can redeem
for rewards at a location that is most convenient for you. With
an average price of $15 a serving, prepared food from the
Fresh&co’s team provides fresh delivery within a quick timespan.
Overall, Fresh&co makes healthy meal choices easily accessible.
55

15 / ARTS AND CULTURE
Keyn
from supplications to celebrations
Fathimath Sham’aa
Aman who was koru (crippled), brought his dishes to the communal
feast, the story goes, but his offering was shunned. No one came
near it. So he called out, “Listen, even if I am koru, my keyn is not.” When
everyone came and saw, they found that his food was the best of the lot. A
proverb was thus born.
Keyn is a traditional communal feast that follows a mauloodh, a ceremony
where a group of men gather in a circle, burn incense sticks and recite
supplications praising Prophet Muhammad (PBUH) in melodic tones.
The origin of the practice is lost in the depths of antiquity. But historians
believe the ritual could be traced back to the Maldives’ conversion to Islam
and its long history of Sufic orders, such as the building of tombs to seek
the help of buried saints. The Dhivehi word mauloodh is likely derived
from the Arabic word mawlid, the observance of the prophet’s birthday in
Rabi’ al-Awwal, the third month of the Islamic calendar. Mawlid also refers
to the “text especially composed for and recited at Muhammad’s nativity
celebration.”
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15 / ARTS AND CULTURE
What began as a celebration of the prophet’s birth,
however, extended to Eid holidays, children’s naming days,
the discovery of a priceless ambergris or even a successful
fishing trip.
The keyn organisers would travel to neighbouring islands
for bananas, a key component of any keyn. In place of
invitations, betel leaves were sent to friends on nearby
islands. In Sri Lanka and many parts of India, a sheaf of
betel leaves is traditionally offered as a mark of respect
and auspicious beginnings. The guests would arrive in
ceremonious style on rowing boats and take a lap around
the lagoon, their voices rising in song.
According to the French navigator François Pyrard’s
account of life in the Maldives in the early 17th century,
the mauloodh huts were built
from coconut branches. Cotton
and silk cloth were draped for
decoration and served as a
ceiling whilst the men sat crosslegged
on mats spread on the
sand.
“On all sides are hung copper
lamps to the number of about
thirty; each is large and has two
wicks so that it is almost as bright as daylight… Odorous
perfumes are introduced within, though burnt without, for
the heat of the place of itself is well-nigh insupportable:
only the fumes and the odour come within,” he wrote.
“There are other conduits, too, for they often wash their
mouths by way of refreshment after chewing betel, which
they do the whole night long.”
Keyn is set out in large wooden dishes called malaafaiy,
whose exterior and lid are decorated with colourful
lacquer-work designs. The dish is filled with rice and
small bowls of curries surrounded by sides, salads and
bananas. A theluli roshigandhu (fried roti) and a handulu
metaa gandu (rice flour candy shaped like a pancake) or a
kanamadhu metaa gandu (sea almond candy) are placed
at the centre. A large pancake called folhi gandu is placed
on top and covered with the lid. The finished malaafaiy
is wrapped in a white cloth, tied at the top and carried to
the mauloodh haruge (a purpose-built dining hall or tent)
where it is placed on straw mats.
A single malaafaiy could serve 10 to 12 people. Water is
served in a ceramic jug called a dhoaru and beverages are
individually served in glasses. Dessert and other sweet
treats are served separately. The feasting begins after the
recital. The malaafaiy is untied by the chief mauloodh
man or the designated chief guest. The food is consumed
by hand and a copper jug and basin are used for hand
washing.
Keyn, also called bodu mauloodh keyn, is believed to
have been influenced by the Indian thali meals, where
thali refers to a metal plate. Dishes served in a thali vary
regionally and are usually served in small bowls placed on
the edge of the round tray. The centrepiece is rice or roti
with vegetable curries and other delicacies arranged in a
circle.
In the Maldives, the malaafaiy was prepared by women,
usually in groups. Women, however, were not allowed to
participate in the mauloodh or eat with the men. They
were also barred from entering or crossing the doorway of
the hall. The practice remained
unchanged for centuries despite
Islam enjoining all Muslims to
praise the prophet. Historians
speculate that this could also be
traced back to similar religious
rituals of ancient India.
“The people rig themselves out
in their bravest style; but only
the men and boys are present,
and no women,” observed Pyrard. “The men of quality of
the parish do not go, for it would be beneath their dignity;
it is a feast of the common folk. They assemble at eight
o’clock in the evening, and sit in places assigned to them,
according to their rank, by the stewards of the festival.”
The mauloodh was sung in Arabic. Maldivians are now
Sunni Muslims but the ritual is believed to have been
influenced by the Shi‘a and Sufi sects. The mauloodh
recital was consequently frowned upon by the Sunni
clergy. Since 1573, the form of Sharia law enforced in the
Maldives was also based on the Shafi school of Sunnism.
But undercurrents of Shiism were present in the form
of folk rituals until they were suppressed in the late 20th
century.
In the past, island communities raised funds for annual
public performances and professional choirs of mauloodh
singers performed at private functions for either food or
money. Despite the official prohibition of the mauloodh
recital, the keyn has enjoyed a revival in recent years. The
Maldivian people, as fate would have it, are rediscovering
its value as a gathering that binds people together and
inspires a sense of community.
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16 / SOUVENIR GUIDE
Famushu
Designer Beachwear
Munal Shujau
Infusing elements from traditional Maldivian craftwork and its kaleidoscopic marine life into their
modern apparels and accessories – Famushu is a rare local brand that stemmed from a team of
creative individuals. Run by a family of four, their boutique is located in the capital city of
Malé. Each piece is carefully designed and handmade to make an aesthetic product, the perfect
gift for that special someone. Or why not spoil yourself?
Their handmade traditional lacquer craftwork, and Thundu Kunaa mat inspired
summer dresses are a favourite within the tourist market. In the steadily growing
list of Famushu products, you will find; long satin silk caftans, hand-painted
summer dresses, printed shirts for men, comfortable cotton shorts, traditional
lacquer work inspired bags and pants.
Thundu Kunaa printed chiffon beach dress
Lacquer design printed chiffon blouse
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16 / SOUVENIR GUIDE
‘Manta’ printed crew neck t-shirt
‘Four angels’ printed crew neck t-shirt for children
‘Swimming Bats’ printed crew neck t-shirt
‘Swim with Me’ printed crew neck t-shirt for children
59

16 / SOUVENIR GUIDE
Starfish hand-printed cotton shorts
Shell hand-printed cotton shorts
60

16 / SOUVENIR GUIDE
Lacquer design printed linen tote bag
Lacquer design printed linen clutch
Thundu Kunaa design printed linen tote bag
61

16 / SOUVENIR GUIDE
Thundu Kunaa design printed cotton Capri pants
Lacquer design printed cotton Capri pants
62

17 / NEW RELEASES
NEW RELEASES 2018
MOVIES
Maze Runner: The
Death Cure
In the conclusion to the Maze Runner
trilogy, Thomas leads his group of
escaped Gladers on their final and
most dangerous mission yet. To save
their friends, they must break into
the legendary Last City, a WCKDcontrolled
labyrinth that may turn
out to be the deadliest maze of all.
Anyone who makes it out alive will
get answers to the questions the
Gladers have been asking since they
first arrived in the maze.
Cast: Dylan O’Brien, Kaya Scodelario,
Thomas Brodie-Sangster, Dexter Darden
as Frypan, Nathalie Emmanuel, Giancarlo
Esposito, Aidan Gillen, Walton Goggins,
Ki Hong Lee, Jacob Lofland, Barry Pepper,
Will Poulter, Rosa Salazar
Black Panther
After the events of Captain America:
Civil War, King T’Challa returns
home to Wakanda. But when two
enemies conspire to bring down the
kingdom, T’Challa must team up, as
the Black Panther, with CIA agent
Everett K. Ross and members of
the Dora Milaje—Wakanda’s special
forces—to prevent a world war.
Cast: Chadwick Boseman, Michael B.
Jordan, Lupita Nyong’o, Danai Gurira,
Martin Freeman, Daniel Kaluuya, Letitia
Wright, Winston Duke, Angela Bassett,
Forest Whitaker, Andy Serkis
A Wrinkle in Time
After learning that her astrophysicist
father Dr Alex Murry is being held
captive on a distant planet deep
in the grip of a universe-spanning
evil, Meg Murry works with her
highly intelligent younger brother
Charles Wallace, her classmate Calvin
O’Keefe, and three astral travellers,
Mrs Which, Mrs Who and Mrs
Whatsit, to save him.
Cast: Oprah Winfrey, Reese Witherspoon,
Mindy Kaling, Gugu Mbatha-Raw,
Michael Pena, Storm Reid, Zach
Galifianakis, Chris Pine, Levi Miller,
Deric McCabe and Andre Holland
63

17 / NEW RELEASES
BOOKS
The Glass Lake by
Maeve Binchy
The God of Small
Things by Arundhati
Roy
The Ocean at the
End of the Lane by
Neil Gaiman
A haunting tale about the
disappearance of Helen McMahon
a woman who was too exotic for the
small Irish town of Lough Glass,
where everyone knows everyone. The
consequences for Helen’s husband,
her son, but above all for her
daughter, Kit, are unimaginable and
changes their lives forever.
Seven-year-old twins Estha and Rahel
see their world shaken irrevocably by
the arrival of their beautiful young
cousin, Sophie. It is an event that will
lead to an illicit liaison and tragedies
accidental and intentional, exposing
“big things that lurk unsaid” in a
country drifting dangerously towards
unrest.
A middle-aged man returns to his
childhood home to attend a funeral.
Although the house he lived in is
long gone, he is drawn to the farm
at the end of the road, where, when
he was seven, he encountered a most
remarkable girl, Lettie Hempstock,
and her mother and grandmother. He
hasn’t thought of Lettie in decades,
and yet as he sits by the pond (a pond
that she’d claimed was an ocean)
behind the ramshackle old farmhouse
where she once lived, his forgotten
past comes flooding back. And it is
a past too strange, too frightening,
too dangerous to have happened to
anyone, let alone a small boy.
64

17 / NEW RELEASES
MUSIC
Joe Satriani; What
happens next
Brandi Carlile; By the
way I forgive you
Moby; Everything
was beautiful and
nothing hurt
What Happens Next is the upcoming
sixteenth studio album by guitarist
Joe Satriani, due to be released on
January 12, 2018 through Sony
Music. Joseph Satriani is an American
instrumental rock guitarist and
multi-instrumentalist. He is a 15-time
Grammy Award nominee and has
sold over 10 million albums, making
him the biggest-selling instrumental
rock guitarist of all time.
By the Way, I Forgive You is an
upcoming studio album by Brandi
Carlile, scheduled to be released on
February 16, 2018. “The Joke” serves
as the album’s lead single. This is
her 7th album and Brandi M. Carlile
is a Grammy-nominated American
folk rock and Americana singersongwriter.
Everything Was Beautiful, and
Nothing Hurt is the upcoming
fifteenth studio album by American
electronica musician Moby. It will
be released on March 2, 2018.
Moby is an American musician, DJ,
record producer, singer, songwriter,
photographer and animal rights
activist. He is well known for his
electronic music, veganism and
support of animal rights. Moby
has sold over 20 million records
worldwide.
65

18 / MIND GYM
Bandaha jehun
a tale of scavengers and severance
Sama Nasheed
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18 / MIND GYM
There is a folk tale about a Prince who once ruled the
Maldivian Islands. In the tale, the Prince is distraught over
the fact that he could not feed his people. So he moulded
a fish out of dough, ran his fingers on either side of the
figurine, carving five lines on the sides (resembling the
Skipjack Tuna), walked into the ocean, ushering it into the
waves and whispered the prayer “Go forth and multiply to
be caught by my people”.
All at once, the fish came alive, thrashing in the water
and answered him. “I should survive, grow and be caught
from a golden hook on a golden line strung from a golden
pole.” The Prince replied in dread that he cannot do so, as
the land he ruled was desolate and devoid of riches. And
so, the fish answered him again. “Then I should survive,
grow and be caught from a silver hook on a silver line
strung from a silver pole.” To which the Prince replied
that it also cannot be done and all he can promise is that
his people can fish with steel hooks wound on cotton
threads strung to bamboo poles.
The fish deliberated the negotiation in disappointment
and finally replied “Alright, then. But to cover my shame
of being caught by poor meagre material, you must tell
your people to splash water on my face.” This tale is a
folk rendition of how pole and line fishing was done in
the early days and signifies how crucial fishing was for
sustenance then and as a way of life.
Before the 80s, it was an age of poverty and deprivation
for Maldivians and fishing was the main source of
income. What fishermen had at their disposal for the task
was a traditional wooden fishing vessel with thatched sails,
known as Riyaa Dhoni, on which they ventured out into
the sea with just the stars and the shapes of distant islands
to guide them.
The Maldivian archipelago stretches south, emerald
islands strung on turquoise bands, with a secluded
scattering of atolls at the base. These three atolls are
separated from the northern atolls by a large body of
water and this distance may have played a significant role
in the diversity of Maldivian dialects and customs. The
dialect northern atolls communicate in is more or less
the same while the southern atolls have very distinctive
dialects of their own. The same can be said for their
customs as well.
The Riyaa Dhoni was incapable of braving the rough sea
that separated the southern atolls from the ones above,
which resulted in limited interaction between these atolls.
Maldivians rarely travelled for any reason but fishing and
it was almost always an expedition to scavenge for food
or travelling to Male’, the hub of trade. Before the 70s,
majority of Maldivian men ventured out to sea and the
women processed the fish for edibility once the catch
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18 / MIND GYM
was brought home. It was the primary livelihood and a
practice woven into the social fabric of Maldivian culture.
But it was necessity that prompted northern fishermen to
embark on month long foraging missions away from their
homes and families. From October to January, at the turn
of the seasons from Hulhangu to Iruvai, fishermen set out
to sea in search of potent fishing grounds. Pole and line
fishing has been the Maldivian method for centuries and
Bluefin, Big eye, Yellow fin and Skipjack are the types of
tuna that dwell in our oceans, the latter being the most
common in our waters. They are a highly migratory and
mobile species, often referred to as nomadic wanderers,
and are opportunistic feeders that multiply rapidly. And
the fishermen chased these schools of fish for months on
end before the fishing season ended in January.
On these fishing expeditions, once an ideal area was
located, they set up camp on an uninhabited island in the
vicinity. The preferred islands had a significant growth
of coconut palms and other flora that would provide
wood for camp fires and for shelter. Thatched huts were
built from coconut palm leaves, branches and other dried
materials that they could gather. For months, they would
camp on these islands, fishing by day and processing the
day’s haul by night. Locals from nearby islands would
often visit these campsites and purchase the fish or
exchange them with treats from their islands. As the
fishermen had a limited stock of food, they were eager to
trade. Once the fish in the area dispersed or dwindled, the
fishermen packed up and pursued other schools of fish,
repeating the process over and over, from island to island
until January, when they returned home. This nomad
behaviour was known as Bandaha jehun.
Once they returned home, the salted and dried fish
they processed were reprocessed by the women and
transported to Male’ to be sold to Sri Lanka, which was
the primary trading point overseas. And some of the
fresh fish were used to make local food like Rihaakuru, a
meticulously extracted thick paste which is the result of
hours of cooking fish in salt and water. These traditions
were the norm for centuries for the Maldivians of
northern atolls.
The southern atolls, Addu, Huvadhu and Fuahmulak, owing
to the separation from the rest of Maldives and therefore
being self-sufficient, were more focused on agriculture
than fishing. Their lands were rich and the people traded
whatever fish they caught for profit directly with the Sri
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18 / MIND GYM
Lankans, ensuring a steady flow of income to sustain themselves. As the island of Gan in Addu Atoll had
been the British Air Base for a decade until 1965, the region was more developed and the people, more
self-reliant. Their dialects and customs are similar, their recipes; the same and their design and method of
building fishing boats are distinct from that of the rest.
Over the years, even with the mechanization of fishing vessels bridging the gap between the northern and
southern atolls, the cultural variances remain. Though a significant population of southern locals reside in
the capital city, Male’ and neighbouring cities, the disparity is apparent. It is a compelling theory that such
diversity between all the northern atolls and the small scatter of southern atolls could be the result of
centuries of fishing customs of an underdeveloped nation.
We thank Maizan Ahmed Manik and Dr. Ahmed Shiham for their generous contributions to this article.
69

19 / TIPS
5 things to do in Malé City
a guide to keeping yourself
entertained in the metro
Ahmed Afruh Rasheed
Island hopping in the Maldives can be
a truly refreshing getaway, immersing
yourself in the lifestyle and traditions
of the locals. From the coral stone
houses and the thatched outdoor
kitchens, the coir-roped wooden seats
that welcome neighbours to fraternise
amongst each other, hopping into
the capital Malé City gives you a
completely contrasting experience
to the way of life seen elsewhere in
Maldives.
Dubbed as one of the most highly
dense urban centres anywhere in the
world, this small island-turned city is
now a concrete jungle bustling with
an energy unlike anywhere in the
Maldives.
First impressions may seem like
you’re stepping into a concrete maze,
but navigating in Malé is quite simple,
especially with smart phones. When
you get a hang of the place, Malé too
can be quite a fun experience for the
holidaymaker.
Here are some of the unconventional
things you can make out of a day in
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19 / TIPS
the greater Malé region that includes
Malé City and the adjoining islands
of Villimalé and Hulhumalé, also
considered part of the capital.
Fusion breakfasts
If you arrive early in the city, the
best way to kick start your day is
with a full breakfast, and this is not a
difficult task. With hundreds of cafés
and restaurants open early in the
morning, a good majority of them
offers breakfast buffets, with a fusion
of traditional Maldivian recipes like
mas-huni, roshi, rihaakuru and shorteats
alongside western breakfast
food. So, if you’re into mood to try
out some local breakfast food, hop
into one of the eateries and indulge
in the tastes of Maldives – though
be warned, being people of the sea,
almost every local dish is tuna based.
Walking through history
Coming into Malé means you have
a thirst to explore the culture. So it
is a must-do to visit the National
Museum, housed in the courtyard of
the last royal palace of the Maldivian
Sultanate that ended less than half a
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19 / TIPS
century ago. The National Museum
in its new building houses ancient
relics, artefacts and artistic renditions
that takes you on a journey of the
Maldives all the way back to the pre-
Islamic era.
For a more interactive experience,
the only surviving building of the
original royal palace now houses an
interactive museum that allows you
to experience the history of Maldives
via modern technology. This
educational experience is part of the
Rasrani Bageecha, named as a garden
of the kings and queens that once
lived in this palace compound.
No vehicles, no fuss
Getting cramped in the busy and
jam-packed city life in Malé can be
overwhelming. The best way to take a
break: hop on a ferry to Villimalé and
roam around this quite yet, modern
island, just five minutes away from
Malé. Here you will experience the
fusion of city life, in an island setting,
where it’s vehicle free, yet the roads
are paved just like in Malé.
Villimalé also offers a lot of water
sports and recreational activities
along its beach, so take a quick dip in
the water or go for a snorkel along
the house reef, or if you’re just too
tired, have lunch at one of the many
beachfront restaurants and cafés the
island is now bustling with.
High tea
Walking in Malé is no daunting
task, and it is the preferred mode
of transport in the often jammed
streets of the city. After arriving
back from Villimalé, take a stroll
along the western edge of Malé on
Boduthakurufaanu Magu, and you’ll
be greeted with the warm friendly
smiles of locals enjoying the beach,
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19 / TIPS
older folk having an evening chat
with fellow men and women.
Continue along Boduthakurufaanu
Magu, eastwards, and you will soon
arrive at the local market and fish
market, just in time for the fishermen
returning with the day’s catch. If
the smell of fish is overwhelming,
the best way to enjoy this scene is
hopping on the rooftop café of the
building adjoining the fish market
to see boats coming in and out with
their catch, while you enjoy local
short-eats in a “high” altitude.
Depending on the time of the year
you arrive in Maldives, this rooftop
experience can bless you threefold,
with the changing colours of a
mesmerising sunset to the West, the
fishing boats returning on the North,
and airplanes taking off and landing
at the airport as your Eastern view.
Street food, street art and
barbeques
If you’re staying overnight in the city,
you’d be lucky to get a taste of the
many variants of street food the city
has to offer. On the southern side of
the coastal road, street food vendors
line up in pop-up carts with foods
in varying spiciness to dried fish,
local fruits, and the local’s all-time
favourite, sipping on fresh young
coconuts.
But a trip to Malé will not be
complete without travelling to
Hulhumalé, a completely reclaimed
island, just a twenty-minute ferry ride
away and rapidly transforming into a
modern city.
Hulhumalé is a city of its own and
there are plenty of things to do here
as well, but most noteworthy of
the contemporary island experience
would be to explore the many art
installations that has been recently
commissioned by the city developers.
From the ferry terminal to the central
park and the commercial block
wall, you will see these installations
by local artists as part of the 2017
Hulhumalé Art Festival .
To cap off your evening, stop by
the barbeque area of Hulhumale’,
custom-designed for the purpose
of having beach barbeques. The
area can accommodate 270 people
simultaneously and has 18 barbeque
spots with all the amenities and a tuck
shop for all your barbecue needs. If
you feel like pre-cooked meals, the
area also houses a Tapas that cooks
fresh pizzas and more.
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20 / COCO FACTS
The exotic natural landscape of this stunning island in North Malé
Atoll and the iridescent underwater world form the backdrop for
the luxury resort, Coco Bodu Hithi. A hundred strikingly
designed villas, seven restaurants and bars as well an
award-winning spa elevate this boutique resort into a hideaway
work of art. The perfect combination of plenty of space, innovative
design, luxurious comfort and attention to detail creates an
inspiring, relaxed atmosphere – above and beyond the usual.
The absolute jewel of relaxation is the beautiful Coco Spa – an airy
temple of wellbeing, flooded with light, providing a stunning view
of the lagoon. It comprises eight treatment rooms, a sauna, steam
bath and a boutique. The treatments are inspired by Indian, Thai,
Indonesian and Ayurvedic traditions and make use of products
from the Paris label Thémaé. The two floating pavilions are
positively meditative places for spa treatments and yoga or tai chi
lessons.
Whether it is to celebrate a romantic honeymoon or a destination
wedding, Coco Bodu Hithi embodies sophistication as a way of
life, offering a chic portfolio of experiences defining timeless
moments.
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20 / COCO FACTS
Lo c a t i o n / d i s t a n ce f ro m a i r p o r t
North Malé Atoll / 40 minutes by speedboat
V i l l a c a t e g o r i e s
44 Island Villas
16 Water Villas
16 Escape Water Villas
24 Coco Residences
W i n e & D i n e
Air
Latitude
Tsuki
Wine Loft
Aqua
Stars Restaurant and Bar
Breeze Barbecue
In-villa dining
O t h e r f a c i l i t i e s
Coco Spa
Sauna
Steam room
Gym
Tennis court
Recreation lounge
Jewellery store
Boutique
PADI Dive School
Marine Biology Centre
Water sports
C o n t a c t
Coco Bodu Hithi
North Malé Atoll
Republic of Maldives
+960 664 1122
reservations@cococollection.com
cococollection.com/en/bodu_hithi
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20 / COCO FACTS
This Maldivian paradise on the southern end of Baa Atoll is a
place of unspoilt beauty surrounded by an azure, crystal clear
lagoon. The sense of paradise is heightened further by the resort’s
98 thatch covered villas either tucked away in lush tropical
vegetation or perched on stilts above the lagoon. In the heart of
Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu, Coco Spa awaits those who appreciate a
holistic, natural healing philosophy. In this harmonious space,
guests can enjoy all the benefits of traditional as well as modern
treatments from Indonesia, Thailand and India, complemented
with products from the Paris label Thémaé.
Two bars, including one on the beach, are perfect for relaxing and
watching the sun bid farewell to the day. Plenty of recreational
fun and diversion is ensured by a choice of diving adventures,
watersports activities and a variety of marine conservations
projects headed by the resort’s Marine Biologist.
Untouched by the modern world, the resort is inspired by nature
with barefoot luxury woven into the rustic surroundings of the
island. Coco Palm is an experience that understands the need to
relax and get back to nature.
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20 / COCO FACTS
Lo c a t i o n / d i s t a n ce f ro m a i r p o r t
Baa Atoll / 30 minutes by seaplane
V i l l a c a t e g o r i e s
09 Ocean Front Villas
23 Beach Villas
25 Sunset Beach Villas
27 Deluxe Villas
12 Lagoon Villas
2 Sunset Lagoon Villas
W i n e & D i n e
Cowrie
Cornus
Conch Bar
Beach Bar
In-villa dining
O t h e r f a c i l i t i e s
Coco Spa
Gym
Tennis court
Boutique
PADI Dive School
Marine Biology Centre
Water sports
C o n t a c t
Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu
Baa Atoll
Republic of Maldives
+960 660 0011
reservations@cococollection.com
cococollection.com/en/palm_dk
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