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CARNIVAL<br />

in Basel<br />

UNESCO<br />

Intangible Cultural Heritage<br />

of Humanity


4 72 Hours of Fasnacht<br />

6<br />

7<br />

8<br />

9<br />

10<br />

11<br />

12<br />

14<br />

15<br />

16<br />

17<br />

18<br />

19<br />

20<br />

Morgestraich<br />

Cortège / Schnitzelbanks<br />

Kids’ Carnival<br />

Gugge Parade and Concert<br />

Lantern Exhibition<br />

Cortège / Ändstraich<br />

Basel Fasnacht City Map<br />

Facts & Figures<br />

Masks and Costumes<br />

History of Fasnacht<br />

Badges / Committee<br />

Fasnacht Glossary<br />

Good to Know<br />

BaselCard / Dates<br />

23 Getting Here<br />

2


WELCOME TO THE<br />

BASEL CARNIVAL<br />

For many people in Basel it is the highlight<br />

of the year: Carnival, or the “three<br />

best days of the year” (drei scheenschte<br />

Dääg) as many like to call it, when young<br />

and old take to the streets, make music,<br />

celebrate, and enjoy the brief period of<br />

jester’s licence.<br />

The Basel carnival, or Fasnacht, is a grand<br />

spectacle of colour, costumes, and sounds<br />

that contributes to the city’s identity like<br />

no other event. Not only do countless locals<br />

feel a deep connection with this hallowed<br />

tradition, it also attracts thousands<br />

of visitors from all corners of the world.<br />

Let yourself be carried away by the colourful<br />

hustle and bustle in Basel’s streets,<br />

alleys, and pubs. Even if you’re only a<br />

bystander you’ll get to know a lot about<br />

local customs and traditions even though<br />

the Basel dialect and sense of humour<br />

might prove a bit confusing. But one<br />

thing’s for sure: it’s an event you’ll not<br />

forget!<br />

The Fasnachts-Comité<br />

and Basel Tourismus<br />

3


72 HOURS OF FASNACHT<br />

The Basel Fasnacht is the largest carnival<br />

in Switzerland. Traditionally it starts at<br />

four o’clock sharp in the morning of the<br />

Monday after Ash Wednesday, and goes<br />

on for precisely seventy-two hours.<br />

As chaotic and confusing the Basel<br />

Fasnacht may seem to outsiders, it is<br />

in actual fact quite a structured and<br />

organized event. The carnival season<br />

opens between Xmas and New Year when<br />

the motto of the upcoming Fasnacht is<br />

revealed and the new badge (Blaggedde)<br />

is presented, and continues throughout<br />

January with various stage events. During<br />

this period, the various formations also<br />

work on the sujet* they plan to play out<br />

during carnival.<br />

For the active participants, Fasnacht<br />

commences on Sunday evening when the<br />

cliques* usher in their new lantern to the<br />

sound of piccolos, before it really takes<br />

off before dawn on Monday morning at<br />

the Morgestraich.<br />

This pivotal event is followed by two<br />

days of large parades through town<br />

(Monday and Wednesday); on Tuesday it<br />

is time for the kids’ carnival, the lantern<br />

exhibition on Münsterplatz, the exhibition<br />

of floats and props on Kaserne square,<br />

and the Guggenmusik* concerts. In the<br />

evenings, often until the early hours of<br />

morning, the attention is on so-called<br />

Gässle*. These are the inviolable cornerstones<br />

of Basel’s “three exceptional days”.<br />

Terms marked with a * are explained in the glossary<br />

on pages 18/19.<br />

4


HUMOUR, CREATIVITY, AND<br />

SOCIAL CRITIQUE<br />

The development of the Basel Fasnacht<br />

as a form of protest against a repressive<br />

ruling class lent it its special character<br />

for which it is famous well beyond the<br />

boundaries of Switzerland today. This<br />

background also explains the typical spite<br />

and satire of Basel carnival humour. Relying<br />

on wit and irony, carnivalists poke fun<br />

at everything that went wrong in politics,<br />

culture, and society over the last year.<br />

CARICATURE AND ART<br />

Be it the costumes or the lanterns: the<br />

cliques* enact their sujet* to the very last<br />

detail, celebrating the art of caricature to<br />

the fullest. Numerous famous painters<br />

once laid down the foundations of this<br />

tradition – a tradition that is now carried<br />

on each year by countless artists and<br />

designers in the same spirit.<br />

UNESCO CULTURAL<br />

HERITAGE<br />

In 2017, UNESCO added the Basel Fasnacht<br />

to its representative list of Intangible<br />

Cultural Heritage, thus paying tribute<br />

to the rich tradition and singularity of this<br />

three-day event. What makes it so impressive,<br />

according to UNESCO, is its unique<br />

blend of music, written and oral forms of<br />

expression, and artisanal outputs.<br />

5


Monday, 4am<br />

MORGESTRAICH<br />

The magic moment<br />

On Monday after Ash Wednesday, the town rises at four o’clock<br />

sharp to the Morgestraich, the impressive start to the Basel<br />

Fasnacht. Upon the fourth chime of St Martin’s church, all<br />

the lights go off in the inner city. At the drum majors’ command<br />

of “Morgestraich: vorwärts, marsch!”, the alleys and the<br />

streets spring to life with the sound of hundreds of piccolos<br />

and drums. All the cliques* open with the Morgestraich, a very<br />

traditional and archaic marching tune, which is only played on<br />

this occasion. The only light in the blacked-out streets comes<br />

from the myriad of lanterns that accompany the pipers and<br />

drummers, alighting the faces of thousands of spectators at the<br />

side of the streets, many of them from abroad: a truly magical<br />

moment!<br />

What started in the 19th century as a simple procession of<br />

drums and torches, has in the meantime become a total artistic<br />

and musical experience. The flickering torches of then have<br />

been replaced by extraordinary works of lantern art, while the<br />

simple sound of military pipes and drums has been transformed<br />

into music of almost concert level.<br />

6


Monday, 1.30pm – 6pm<br />

CORTÈGE<br />

The large parade<br />

On Monday and Wednesday afternoon it is time for the large<br />

street parade, the so-called cortège, when roughly 11,000<br />

maskers play out their sujet* in fixed formations of varying size.<br />

Unlike the Morgestraich, the cortège is an event for all Fasnacht<br />

formations, that is, large and small cliques*, huge floats, individual<br />

maskers (Ainzelmasgge*), Guggenmusik* bands, groups of<br />

masks, and elegant horse-drawn carriages (chaises).<br />

In some cases, a formation’s sujet* is already recognizable from<br />

a distance – namely on the large lantern that precedes each<br />

traditional clique*. The sujet* is also represented and reflected<br />

in the head-masks (Larve*), costumes, and props (Requisiten*).<br />

Behind the lantern and the so-called Vortrab (vanguard) come<br />

the pipers, the drum major, and finally the drummers.<br />

In the evenings<br />

SCHNITZELBANKS<br />

One of the most salient features of the Basel Fasnacht are<br />

the so-called Schnitzelbanks. The satirical rhyming songs are<br />

regarded as the epitome of carnival humour. The Schnitzelbank<br />

singers, who usually also write the songs, comment on political<br />

and social events that occurred over the last year in elegantly<br />

rhymed and witty verses, usually spiced up with a sound portion<br />

of satire and a pinch of humorous malice.<br />

Schnitzelbank singers perform in restaurants and theatres on<br />

Monday and Wednesday evening, on Tuesday evening also in<br />

clique cellars and private houses. Just as important as the songs<br />

are the illustrations that go with them, the so-called Helge;<br />

each song comes with its own picture which is held up to the<br />

audience. A good illustration provides hints to the song’s theme,<br />

but without disclosing the punchline.<br />

Terms marked with a * are explained in the glossary on pages 18/19.<br />

7


Tuesday afternoon<br />

KIDS’ CARNIVAL<br />

On Tuesday afternoon, the city centre is again<br />

caught up in the hustle and bustle of Fasnacht,<br />

but now it’s the children’s turn. In small groups,<br />

kids accompanied by parents, grandparents,<br />

and other grown-ups practise the traditions<br />

of Fasnacht. Dressed in imaginative costumes<br />

and equipped with drums, musical instruments,<br />

and small handcarts they roam the streets,<br />

distribute Dääfeli (sweets) and Zeedel, witty<br />

leaflets they’ve written themselves, and shower<br />

the spectators with Räppli*. In turn, adults,<br />

too, make use of the day to celebrate carnival<br />

unconstrained by the strict schedule of the<br />

cortège, in loose formations and wearing their<br />

favourite personal mask and costume.<br />

Terms marked with a * are explained in the glossary on pages 18/19.<br />

8


Tuesday, from 6.30pm<br />

GUGGE PARADE AND CONCERT<br />

On Tuesday evening, the town is in the hands of the Guggenmusik*<br />

bands. A part of the roughly 60 brass bands equipped with<br />

ear-shattering trumpets, trombones, tubas, drums, kettledrums,<br />

and cymbals convene at Exhibition Square around 6.30pm. From<br />

there they parade through Clarastrasse towards the city centre<br />

and the three large squares (Barfüsserplatz, Marktplatz, and<br />

Claraplatz) where they perform on specially erected stages. The<br />

popular and eagerly awaited Gugge* concerts are staged between<br />

7.30 and 10.30pm but most of the bands also play before and<br />

after the main event in restaurants and on squares across town.<br />

On this evening, the piper and drummers give way to the<br />

Guggenmusik* bands and retreat to the small alleys away from<br />

the main streets and squares.


Monday evening until Wednesday morning<br />

LANTERN EXHIBITION<br />

After the parade on Monday afternoon, the cliques* display their<br />

elaborately designed lanterns on the Münsterplatz. Featuring<br />

the visualized sujets*, the lanterns reveal their true magic after<br />

dark when they are lit for the first time after Morgestraich. They<br />

come in many forms and styles. Some bear the unmistakable<br />

signature of regular artists, others are painted by laymen and<br />

-women. Today, new techniques and innovative materials are<br />

being employed increasingly. What once began with caricatures<br />

of well-known Basel politicians and personalities has over the<br />

last decades developed into a true art historical digest.<br />

EXHIBITION OF FLOATS<br />

AND PROPS<br />

Some of the large floats and props (Requisiten*) that feature in<br />

the cortège can be admired at the Kaserne where they are on<br />

display throughout the day on Tuesday.<br />

10


Wednesday, 1.30pm – 6pm and Thursday 4am<br />

CORTÈGE AND ÄNDSTRAICH<br />

On Wednesday, the cortège takes to the streets again from<br />

1.30pm. As on Monday, the parade is not restricted to traditional<br />

music groups. It also includes large floats on which the group’s<br />

sujet* is played out with the help of elaborate and fancy superstructures.<br />

The maskers who man the floats distribute flowers –<br />

usually mimosa – oranges, and sweets among the spectators, but<br />

they also love to shower the crowds with a rain of confetti.<br />

Most cliques* are headed by a so-called Vortrab (vanguard)<br />

whose job it is to clear the way for the advancing formation.<br />

Members of the Vortrab also hand-out Zeedel, leaflets on which<br />

the clique’s* Fasnacht theme is explained in witty verses.<br />

Fasnacht ends as it began on Monday morning with a set ritual.<br />

Piping and drumming along with Guggenmusik* continues until<br />

four o’ clock on Thursday morning, the so-called Ändstraich,<br />

when each formation for itself celebrates the end of Fasnacht<br />

with a final, specially chosen performance.<br />

Terms marked with a * are explained in the glossary on pages 18/19.<br />

11


BASEL CARNIVAL<br />

CITY MAP<br />

KASERNE<br />

MITTLERE BRÜCKE<br />

MARKTPLATZ<br />

MÜNSTERPLATZ<br />

BARFÜSSERPLATZ<br />

Tourist Information<br />

WETTS<br />

BRÜCK<br />

BAHNHOF SBB<br />

Tram 2/8/10/11<br />

Buses 30/50/48<br />

AESCH<strong>EN</strong>PLATZ<br />

Tram 3/8/10/11/14/15<br />

Buses 37/80/81<br />

12


KASERNE<br />

CLARAPLATZ<br />

MESSEPLATZ<br />

BADISCHER<br />

BAHNHOF<br />

Tram 2/6<br />

Buses 30/36/46/55<br />

WETTSTEINPLATZ<br />

Route of cortège<br />

Monday and Wednesday from 1.30pm<br />

Route of Gugge* parade Tuesday 6.30pm<br />

WETTSTEIN-<br />

BRÜCKE<br />

Sales points<br />

Fasnacht badges, Rädäbäng* and Zeedel<br />

Lantern exhibition<br />

Monday evening until Wednesday morning<br />

Exhibition of floats and props Tuesday<br />

Reserved seats for people with a reduced<br />

mobility during the cortège.<br />

• In the city centre, most shops are closed during the cortège.<br />

• Schnitzelbank troupes perform in the evening in pubs, clique<br />

cellars, and some theatres.<br />

• Fasnacht badges are sold at stalls run by the Fasnacht<br />

Committee, at the two tourist office outlets located at the<br />

Stadtcasino and the Swiss railway station SBB, and by<br />

vendors in the streets.<br />

13


FACTS & FIGURES<br />

ABOUT THE BASEL FASNACHT<br />

The Basel Fasnacht attracts more than<br />

200,000 VISITORS every year.<br />

Roughly 11,000 MASKERS take part in the<br />

cortège. At least as many prefer to parade<br />

with no fixed route through the streets and<br />

alleys of the Old Town.<br />

Around 500 FASNACHT FORMATIONS<br />

take part in the official cortège each year.<br />

TWO MONTHS before the “three best<br />

days of the year”, beginning in January, a<br />

number of pre-Fasnacht events are staged<br />

at various theatres in town.<br />

More than 500,000 WORKHOURS are<br />

invested in Fasnacht each year on a voluntary<br />

basis – roughly 100,000 of them in the<br />

service of children and adolescents.<br />

14


MASKS AND COSTUMES<br />

At the Basel Fasnacht, active participants<br />

hide their true identity under a Masgge<br />

(full-body mask) according to the unwritten<br />

laws of Fasnacht. The head-mask is<br />

referred to as Larve*; up to this day, most<br />

of them are still elaborately handcrafted.<br />

Many groups still design and create<br />

their own costumes and head-masks.<br />

One distinguishes between three types<br />

of costumes: parade costumes (which<br />

lend expression to a formation’s current<br />

sujet*), classical costumes, and individual<br />

fantasy costumes.<br />

Classical costumes include the Waggis (a<br />

parody of an Alsatian peasant), the Alti<br />

Dante (an “old aunt” from the Biedermeier<br />

period), the Blätzlibajass (modelled on<br />

the Bajazzo, the classical buffoon from<br />

the Comedia dell’ arte, with a costume<br />

made of hundreds of scraps of cloth), the<br />

Ueli (based on the figure of a medieval<br />

jester), and the Dummpeter (originally a<br />

trumpeter from the Rococo period).<br />

Terms marked with a * are explained in the glossary<br />

on pages 18/19.<br />

15


A GLIMPSE INTO<br />

THE HISTORY OF<br />

FASNACHT<br />

Like with most carnival<br />

customs, the roots of the<br />

Basel Fasnacht trace back to<br />

ancient Celtic and Germanic<br />

origins and practices relating<br />

to ancestor worship, fertility<br />

rites, and the expulsion of<br />

winter. Later it was also influenced<br />

by such events as medieval<br />

jousts, military musters<br />

organized by the city’s guilds,<br />

and religious festivals before<br />

Lent. When, during the age of<br />

Reformation, merrymaking<br />

and feasting were increasingly<br />

restricted, even banned<br />

at times, the Basel Fasnacht<br />

gradually developed into a<br />

display of resistance against<br />

the city’s authorities.<br />

In the 19th century, the nature<br />

of Fasnacht began to change.<br />

The first cliques* were formed,<br />

Schnitzelbank singers made<br />

their appearance for the first<br />

time, and piping and drumming gradually became<br />

the hallmark of Fasnacht. The parades<br />

became more political and gradually adopted<br />

their typical satirical bent.<br />

Fasnacht as we know it today took on its<br />

shape above all in the course of the latter<br />

half of the 20th century. In the years after the<br />

Second World War, many new cliques* were<br />

established, the quality of piping and drumming<br />

rose to new levels, while the costumes<br />

and head-masks (Larve*) took on their typical<br />

Basel touch. New traditions and rituals sprang<br />

up which are still celebrated today as if they<br />

had existed already for centuries.<br />

Terms marked with a * are explained in the glossary on pages 18/19.<br />

16


COMMITTEE<br />

The Fasnacht Committee, founded in 1910,<br />

consists of ten to fifteen honorary members<br />

and is responsible for the organization of<br />

the “three best days of the year”. It provides<br />

services to the groups involved in Fasnacht<br />

and mediates between the interests of<br />

the Fasnacht, the general public, and the<br />

authorities.<br />

BADGE<br />

The Blaggedde (Fasnacht badge) in the shape<br />

of a brooch enjoys high repute in Basel.<br />

It is considered a small work of art with the<br />

ability to convey the motto of the current<br />

Fasnacht in a single image. The proceeds<br />

from the sale of the Blaggedde is also the<br />

Fasnacht’s main source of income.<br />

17


FASNACHT GLOSSARY<br />

Clique<br />

Umbrella term for all groups actively involved<br />

in Fasnacht. These include traditional,<br />

piccolo and drum formations (often divided<br />

into a main section, Stammclique, an “old<br />

guard”, and a “young guard”), loosely<br />

organized groups of pipers and drummers,<br />

as well as Guggenmusik bands, floats, and<br />

carriages (Chaise).<br />

Gugge / Guggenmusik<br />

Short for Guggenmusik band; brass band<br />

accompanied by percussion instruments that<br />

plays popular tunes and hits with verve but<br />

slightly off-key. The band is usually headed<br />

by an impressive drum major.<br />

Sujet<br />

Specific theme chosen by a clique which it<br />

plays out during Fasnacht; usually a local,<br />

national, or international topic that has<br />

given rise to discussion and criticism over<br />

the last year.<br />

Larve<br />

Basel dialect term for head-mask.<br />

Requisit<br />

Prop consisting of different parts that illustrates<br />

the clique’s sujet. The prop makes up<br />

part of the clique’s formation and is drawn in<br />

a handcart during the cortège.<br />

18


Räppli<br />

Basel dialect term for confetti<br />

Gässle<br />

Playing music and parading through the<br />

alleys of the Old Town with no fixed route.<br />

Ainzelmasgge<br />

Term for a person in full costume who performs<br />

alone during Fasnacht.<br />

Määlsuppe, Kääs- and Ziibelewaie<br />

Local terms for roasted flour soup, cheese<br />

pie, and onion pie, favoured dishes at the<br />

Morgestraich but also served on other days<br />

during Fasnacht.<br />

Rädäbäng<br />

The official guide to Fasnacht is published<br />

two weeks before Fasnacht and lists all the<br />

upcoming events and respective sujets. The<br />

brochure is sold at the Fasnacht Committee’s<br />

sales points at Barfüsserplatz, Marktplatz,<br />

and Claraplatz and in Sutter bakery shops.<br />

Schyssdräggziigli<br />

Small group of pipers and/or drummers that<br />

gets together spontaneously but does not<br />

take part in the cortège.<br />

19


GOOD TO KNOW:<br />

Dos and Don’ts at the Basel Fasnacht<br />

«Not without a badge»<br />

Being the only way to make a small financial<br />

contribution to Fasnacht, wearing a badge<br />

(Blaggedde) is a matter of honour.<br />

No flash photography during Morgestraich<br />

Complete darkness is a prerequisite of Morgestraich.<br />

Brightly lit windows, neon signs, and<br />

other sources of light ruin the magic completely.<br />

Consequently, flash photography is an absolute<br />

taboo.<br />

All or nothing<br />

At the Basel Fasnacht, the only people to wear<br />

costume are the active participants – onlookers<br />

are asked to keep a low profile. Colourfully<br />

painted faces, false noses, and wigs are a no-go,<br />

except for children.<br />

No confetti on maskers<br />

Please don’t throw confetti at the maskers – it<br />

makes breathing under the head-mask extremely<br />

difficult. Also, do not pick up confetti from<br />

the street and throw it around.<br />

Do not throw things into the crowd<br />

Waggis and other figures on floats like to throw<br />

oranges and sweets into the crowd. Do not<br />

throw them back or into other parts of the audience,<br />

under any circumstances.<br />

Give way<br />

Enjoy Fasnacht with the due respect. Masked<br />

groups and individuals always have the right of<br />

way, so don’t hinder them, and please do not<br />

form human chains.<br />

Terms marked with a * are explained in the glossary<br />

on pages 18/19.<br />

20


Upgrade for overnight guests<br />

THE BASELCARD FOR FREE<br />

Visitors to Basel receive their personal guest card upon<br />

checking in at the hotel. It not only entitles you to free public<br />

transport and free use of the guest WiFi, the BaselCard also<br />

means a 50 % discount on admission to Basel museums, the<br />

zoo, the theatre, along with other benefits such as renting an<br />

e-bike for just CHF 20 a day. Get your e-bike from the Rent a<br />

Bike office at the SBB main train station.<br />

www.basel.com/en/BaselCard<br />

MORGESTRAICH UP TO 2025<br />

• 2 March 2020<br />

• 22 February 2021<br />

• 7 March 2022<br />

• 27 February 2023<br />

• 19 February 2024<br />

• 10 March 2025<br />

21


We wish to thank the following<br />

sponsors for their support:<br />

Imprint<br />

Edition: December 2019<br />

Published by: Fasnachts-Comité Basel<br />

/ Basel Tourismus<br />

Texts and editorial work:<br />

Maja Hartmann, VVH Basel<br />

Visual design: Domo Löw<br />

Translation: Nigel Stephenson<br />

Print: Druckerei Dietrich AG.<br />

Published in: G/E/F<br />

Photo credits:<br />

Pages 1/2/6/10/11/24:<br />

Basel Tourismus, Schweiz Tourismus<br />

Pages 4/9/14/17 above:<br />

Foto Mimmo, Basel<br />

Page 7: Philipp Neth<br />

Page 8: Ivo Birrer, Basel<br />

Page 15: Historisches Museum Basel<br />

Page 23: maboart, Basel<br />

For the sake of easier readability, we use the male form in our texts but,<br />

of course, women and men are addressed equally.<br />

22


GETTING HERE<br />

Visitors to the Basel Fasnacht are advised to<br />

come on foot or use public transport. Best leave<br />

your car at home or use one of the car parks<br />

at the edge of town. The bus and tram schedules<br />

are duly adapted to the high visitor volume.<br />

During the cortège on Monday and Wednesday,<br />

some road sections are closed completely for<br />

a few hours. The buses and trams are rerouted<br />

accordingly. Overnight guests benefit from<br />

their BaselCard which entitles them to free<br />

usage of buses and trams during their entire<br />

stay in Basel.<br />

Getting to Basel from afar is also easy, owing to<br />

Basel’s central location in Europe and excellent<br />

flight and rail connections. The EuroAirport<br />

is only 15 minutes away from the city centre.<br />

The same goes for Basel’s three train stations,<br />

the Swiss main train station SBB, the French<br />

train station SNCF, as well as the German train<br />

station Badischer Bahnhof, all of which are in<br />

walking distance to the town centre.<br />

23


www.basel.com<br />

www.fasnachts-comite.ch

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