1 week ago

2018 4WDrive 201


INSTALL 1 WORDS BY QUINTON NEUFELDT KEEPING COOL with BulletProofDiesel Reliable, dependable power is what most diesel truck owners want. Our 2008 Ford Superduty with the Power Stroke 6.4L diesel gets worked hard in all types of conditions, such as hauling many loads and pulling a trailer in heavy traffic during the blistering heat of summer. While this truck is as plain as it gets, it can always be counted on for work (and the odd task of bringing a disabled Jeep back from the trails). However, when cooling issues started to arise, we decided to search for after market products and see what our options would be to remedy the situation. An internet search of any type of engine – followed by the word “problems” – will give you a lot of pages to look at. In our case, the rad was leaking, we had intermittant overheating spikes on the gauge, and the accessory belts were chirping. During our search, we came across BulletProofDiesel (BPD). I have seen their products advertised and read articles written about the company over the years. After looking into what they offered, we purchased three products including: • The BulletProofDiesel Oil Cooler Relocation Kit (US$1895) • The BulletProofDiesel Billet Water Pump (US$399.95) • The BulletProofDiesel Fuel Filter Cap (US$118.19) 48 Subscribe at

2 4 3 1. Christmas came early for us in December as we received our package from Mesa, AZ in just two days. I had gone ahead and replaced the radiator (due to the leak). I then flushed the cooling system, but left the other issues unresolved. The oil cooler can become restricted from debris and corrosion. The water pump was getting old and the plastic fuel filter cap looks cheap and we just wanted to replace it. It was now time to get to work! 2. Always read the instructions first. The OEM manuals are needed for critical procedures, torque values, proper sequences, etc. However, the Bulletproof website has a lot of excellent information and the instructions are very clear and easy to understand. I also watched a few how-to videos on YouTube to get an idea of what was involved. 3. Here are most of the parts to be installed. It’s a very thorough kit and nothing else is needed. However, now is a good time to also do the accessory drive belts, tensioners, pulleys, thermostats, rad hoses (and anything else) since most will be removed anyways. This isn’t really a DIY project, but with a well-equipped shop, tools (and patience) it can be done. The biggest thing on theses engines is the amount of ‘stuff’ that must be removed to access the engine. The turbos, fuel cooler and EGR systems are a complex maze, which all have to come off and out in order to get to the oil cooler that’s buried in the valley of the engine. Ford and many online technicians recommend taking the truck’s cab off to access the engine. I didn’t have an easy way to do this, so it was left on. 4. One of the hardest parts of this job is to get at the bolts at the back of the turbo. There just isn’t much room. After almost stripping one of the heads of these 10 mm bolts, I came across some info removing the body mount bolts and jacking up Volume 20/1 49

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