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10 | February 15, 2018 | The wilmette beacon news<br />

wilmettebeacon.com<br />

Al’s Meat Market sells good old-fashioned way in Wilmette<br />

Hilary Anderson<br />

Freelance Reporter<br />

There is no sawdust on<br />

the floor, but that does not<br />

matter. It still is an oldfashioned<br />

meat market in a<br />

modern setting.<br />

Al’s Meat Market, at<br />

1165 Wilmette Ave., is<br />

more than its name. The<br />

small store still sells meat<br />

the old-fashioned way.<br />

It also is a neighborhood<br />

gathering place. Al’s Meat<br />

Market is reminiscent of a<br />

general store from years<br />

gone by situated among<br />

21st century buildings.<br />

The proprieter is Joe<br />

Spera, wearing his storekeeper’s<br />

apron, telling<br />

jokes when not serving<br />

customers. He could easily<br />

do stand-up comedy. His<br />

laughter is contagious.<br />

Customers love him and<br />

so do neighboring business<br />

owners, sales people and<br />

whoever is delivering mail<br />

for the day. They come to<br />

buy, place orders, discuss<br />

the best way to cook various<br />

meats, survey Spera’s<br />

newest BBQ sauces, olive<br />

oils, and pastas or update<br />

each other on the news of<br />

the day. Sometimes it is all<br />

of the above.<br />

Spera is no stranger to<br />

Wilmette.<br />

He attended St. Joseph<br />

School until sixth grade<br />

when his parents divorced.<br />

Spera finished school at<br />

Avoca and graduated from<br />

New Trier High School.<br />

He is a proud alum and<br />

still connects with classmates.<br />

“Our 50th New Trier<br />

High School reunion is<br />

coming soon,” Spera said.<br />

“We are looking for a place<br />

to hold it.”<br />

Spera hauls out his 1968<br />

New Trier High School<br />

yearbook and opens to the<br />

page with his photo on it.<br />

“Wasn’t I a handsome<br />

guy then,” he said. “Now<br />

look at me.”<br />

Spera learned butchering<br />

meat from his father,<br />

Al Spera, who in 1961<br />

opened Al’s Meat Market<br />

in Hubbard Woods.<br />

“He sometimes made<br />

me work with him when<br />

I did something wrong<br />

as sort of a punishment,”<br />

Spera said.<br />

Spera chose not to be a<br />

butcher once he graduated<br />

high school.<br />

“I was a truck driver,<br />

welder and miner,” he<br />

said. “I traveled to Rocks<br />

Spring, Wyoming and<br />

mined soda ash from which<br />

baking soda is made.”<br />

He came back to the<br />

Wilmette area when his<br />

cousin, Ralph Spera, was<br />

dying.<br />

“Ralph was my best<br />

friend, like a brother to<br />

me,” he said. “We did so<br />

many fun things together.”<br />

It was around this time<br />

he bought a large semitruck<br />

and worked for an<br />

excavating company.<br />

Spera’s father died in<br />

1991.<br />

“My father died, left me<br />

the store and got even with<br />

me,” Spera said, laughing.<br />

He ran the Hubbard<br />

Woods Al’s Meat Market<br />

until 2001 then moved the<br />

store to its current location<br />

and back to his Wilmette<br />

roots.<br />

“The people here are<br />

so friendly,” Spera said.<br />

“It’s a neighborhood family.<br />

Business owners, landlords,<br />

customers gather<br />

here every Friday after<br />

about 4 p.m. We talk, eat<br />

and have a good time. It’s<br />

a lifestyle, not an address.”<br />

Spera shares his talents<br />

with others when asked.<br />

“A young Minnesota<br />

woman who was a pastry<br />

chef came and learned<br />

how to cut meat properly,”<br />

he said. “She was good at<br />

butchering.”<br />

Joe Spera, owner of Al’s Meat Market in Wilmette, smiles at a customer at the 1165 Wilmette Ave. store.<br />

hilary anderson/22nd century media<br />

Another was a Michigan<br />

woman who came for a<br />

similar reason.<br />

“I think she opened her<br />

own shop there,” Spera<br />

said.<br />

He is a walking encyclopedia<br />

not just about meats<br />

but all the products he sells<br />

in his store.<br />

“I taste almost everything<br />

I sell so customers<br />

will know what they are<br />

like, what may go with a<br />

particular kind of meat and<br />

how to use it,” Spera said.<br />

“My favorite BBQ sauce is<br />

Old Arthur’s.”<br />

He goes to the market<br />

himself and selects the<br />

cuts and kinds of meat he<br />

will sell. Most meats Spera<br />

buys come from Illinois<br />

area markets.<br />

“I know how to pick<br />

good meats,” he said.<br />

“Been doing that since I<br />

was a little kid.”<br />

Spera makes every type<br />

of ethnic sausage imaginable—Italian,<br />

lamb, Polish,<br />

various kinds of brats<br />

plus his own version of<br />

meatloaf.<br />

“Around Christmas I<br />

make black and white<br />

Bangers, Irish pudding and<br />

even Danish pork roast,<br />

which is hard to find,” he<br />

said. “Last Christmas a<br />

Danish couple from Florida<br />

visiting here came and<br />

bought a Danish pork roast<br />

because they cannot find<br />

any where they live.”<br />

Spera adds if someone<br />

wants a particular kind of<br />

meat and only has a picture<br />

of it, he can identify<br />

the meat and get it for the<br />

customer.<br />

“Sometimes people only<br />

know a meat by what their<br />

family calls it or it is in<br />

another language, Spera<br />

said.”<br />

He is a man of many<br />

talents and during summer<br />

goes to customers’ homes<br />

to cook a pig roast or a<br />

whole lamb.<br />

There are no price tags<br />

in Spera’s meat market.<br />

“Meat prices can change<br />

every day,” he said. “I<br />

do not want to waste my<br />

time changing price tags.<br />

Sometimes my prices can<br />

be lower than in the big<br />

food stores.”<br />

Just as he was talking in<br />

walked a customer.<br />

“I just want two chicken<br />

breasts split with no bones,”<br />

Ellen Sachs Alters said.<br />

Spera collected two<br />

from his old-fashioned<br />

white, refrigerated glass<br />

case, wrapped them and<br />

told her the price.<br />

“Is that all?,” she asked<br />

and walked away smiling.<br />

“Joe has the best-tasting<br />

chicken in town. You cannot<br />

beat the service and<br />

comradery.”<br />

“Joe operates in the old<br />

style,” customer Mary Lyman<br />

said. “He has quality<br />

meats, will order what you<br />

need, cut it to order and tell<br />

you how to best cook it.”<br />

In the old-fashion tradition,<br />

Spera does not take<br />

credit cards. He accepts<br />

cash, checks and even<br />

gives store credit.<br />

“It is always a pleasure<br />

to see Joe,” Tania Chevalier<br />

said. “He has good and<br />

delicious meat and a joke<br />

to go along with it. We always<br />

have a good time visiting<br />

his store.”

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