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A fool will not even find water in the Nile!

The Sudanese proverb raises the question: Does the fool drown in his search for water or is he saved by it? And who is, in fact, this fool? Given the wasteful and unfair dealings of mankind with this dwindling resource – aren’t we all? While doing research on water, The Niles correspondents in South Sudan and Sudan met fishermen who deal carefully with the water that nourishes them and business people who exploit the resource without restraint. They report on conflicts around water but also on exemplary projects where water is shared peacefully. In short, the fool is still swimming, but for how long?

The Sudanese proverb raises the question: Does the fool drown in his search for water or is he saved by it? And who is, in fact, this fool? Given the wasteful and unfair dealings of mankind with this dwindling resource – aren’t we all? While doing research on water, The Niles correspondents in South Sudan and Sudan met fishermen who deal carefully with the water that nourishes them and business people who exploit the resource without restraint. They report on conflicts around water but also on exemplary projects where water is shared peacefully. In short, the fool is still swimming, but for how long?

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24 The <strong>Nile</strong>s<br />

“His<br />

unsteady<br />

legs<br />

struggled<br />

with<br />

his meagre<br />

frame.”<br />

approached <strong>the</strong> village shield<strong>in</strong>g his face from <strong>the</strong><br />

pa<strong>in</strong>ful ra<strong>in</strong>drops with his left open palm. He was wet<br />

through and through – his pants dripped as if he had<br />

ur<strong>in</strong>ated on himself. He trudged like a drunk, a spook.<br />

It was bad to be caught up <strong>in</strong> such bad wea<strong>the</strong>r. He<br />

shivered as if he had fever, maybe he was hungry.<br />

It would have been worse if he was drunk. He would<br />

have fallen <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> gutter and maybe drowned.<br />

The lone man stopped to scan <strong>the</strong> village with<br />

difficulty. In spite of himself, he <strong>in</strong>st<strong>in</strong>ctively branched<br />

off <strong>the</strong> ma<strong>in</strong> road. His unsteady legs struggled with<br />

his meagre frame as if he had lost his sense of direction,<br />

an <strong>in</strong>dication that he was from a<strong>not</strong>her village. In his<br />

right hand he carried some small luggage <strong>in</strong> a gunny<br />

sack. The gunny sack looked like a stone because it<br />

was drenched <strong>in</strong> ra<strong>in</strong> <strong>water</strong>. The man obviously looked<br />

disturbed and perhaps confused <strong>in</strong> his search for<br />

shelter from <strong>the</strong> storm.<br />

He branched off to <strong>the</strong> nearest hut, with smoke<br />

slowly spirall<strong>in</strong>g from <strong>the</strong> roof. It must be warm <strong>in</strong>side<br />

<strong>the</strong>re, <strong>the</strong> man presumed, for he badly needed some<br />

warmth whe<strong>the</strong>r artificial or natural. He cleared his<br />

throat and clapped his hands loudly, to announce<br />

<strong>the</strong> presence of a stranger. There was no answer. He<br />

clapped aga<strong>in</strong> and a man with a torn, white vest stood<br />

at <strong>the</strong> door of <strong>the</strong> hut. He squ<strong>in</strong>ted at <strong>the</strong> new arrival<br />

to his house.<br />

“Come <strong>in</strong>, come <strong>in</strong> bro<strong>the</strong>r. Come and take shelter.<br />

The ra<strong>in</strong> is heavy,” said <strong>the</strong> man with <strong>the</strong> torn vest.<br />

“Come <strong>in</strong>, you must be very cold. Maybe <strong>even</strong><br />

hungry. Sit down at <strong>the</strong> corner <strong>the</strong>re, and feel at home.”<br />

The stranger sat on a low bamboo stool at <strong>the</strong> corner<br />

of <strong>the</strong> hut, as <strong>the</strong> owner of <strong>the</strong> hut retired <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong><br />

second partition. The hut was semi dark and <strong>the</strong><br />

traveler had no access to <strong>the</strong> hearth <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> next room.<br />

He shivered like a man suffer<strong>in</strong>g from a serious<br />

case of malaria. The hut was quiet when he arrived.<br />

It seemed <strong>the</strong> man with <strong>the</strong> torn vest lived alone.<br />

It was quiet except for <strong>the</strong> ra<strong>in</strong> outside.<br />

Now <strong>the</strong> ra<strong>in</strong> poured gently, cont<strong>in</strong>uously.<br />

Soon crickets started chirp<strong>in</strong>g, prompt<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> frogs<br />

to croak <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir ugly and dull tones.<br />

“My host be a<br />

brute, eh? How can<br />

you beat your wife<br />

at this time?”<br />

A moment later, <strong>the</strong> owner of <strong>the</strong> hut emerged from<br />

<strong>the</strong> next partition with a dry gunny sack which he<br />

handed to his guest. “Use this for keep<strong>in</strong>g you warm,<br />

we don’t have a spare blanket. We rarely receive<br />

visitors,” said <strong>the</strong> owner of <strong>the</strong> hut who turned his<br />

back to <strong>the</strong> stranger and returned to <strong>the</strong> next partition<br />

which served as his bedroom.<br />

It was still ra<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g, but gently. It was serene <strong>in</strong>side<br />

<strong>the</strong> hut, but <strong>the</strong> man had <strong>not</strong> fully recovered from<br />

<strong>the</strong> cold. His wet clo<strong>the</strong>s were plastered to his body.<br />

The wet clo<strong>the</strong>s smelled of sweat and body dirt. He<br />

wished he were <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> comfort of his own home, his<br />

wife would have made for him some warm porridge<br />

to chase away <strong>the</strong> cold.<br />

The man was absorbed <strong>in</strong> his own private thoughts<br />

when he heard some funny noises <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> next room,<br />

where <strong>the</strong> owner of <strong>the</strong> hut had entered. Somebody<br />

brea<strong>the</strong>d heavily, as if <strong>in</strong> agony. Sweet agony? The<br />

man became curious as he cocked his ears. Curiosity<br />

made him forget about <strong>the</strong> cold <strong>in</strong> his chest. He forced<br />

a cough as if to say ‘hello!’. Now <strong>the</strong> heavy breath<strong>in</strong>g<br />

became rapid. There was struggl<strong>in</strong>g, pant<strong>in</strong>g, moan<strong>in</strong>g,<br />

curs<strong>in</strong>g. The man could tell <strong>the</strong> voice was that of<br />

a woman.<br />

Eh eh! What battle goes on <strong>in</strong>side <strong>the</strong>re? Are<br />

husband and wife fight<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> this bad wea<strong>the</strong>r when<br />

<strong>the</strong>y are supposed to huddle close to each o<strong>the</strong>r, to feel<br />

warm and happy? Strange people, <strong>the</strong>se ones! The<br />

stranger wondered, shak<strong>in</strong>g his head from left to right.<br />

But <strong>the</strong> moan<strong>in</strong>g, pant<strong>in</strong>g, struggl<strong>in</strong>g went on<br />

unabated. The funny noises came from <strong>the</strong> woman<br />

of <strong>the</strong> house.<br />

She sobbed.<br />

Whaaat! It is really a woman’s voice! The stranger<br />

became more <strong>in</strong>terested. He hoped <strong>the</strong> ra<strong>in</strong> did <strong>not</strong><br />

stop abruptly before he knew what agony went on<br />

<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> next room. The struggl<strong>in</strong>g resumed aga<strong>in</strong>, and<br />

<strong>the</strong>n it seemed <strong>the</strong> woman was slapp<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> man<br />

repeatedly and cry<strong>in</strong>g ‘mama, mama, I’m dy<strong>in</strong>g…’.<br />

Ah! The traveler mumbled to himself. He engaged<br />

<strong>in</strong> a monologue to keep himself company:<br />

My host must be a brute, eh? How can you beat<br />

your wife at this time? Hmn, You must be crazy. Crazy<br />

man <strong>in</strong>deed. A wife beater <strong>in</strong>deed. An idiot <strong>in</strong>deed.<br />

(He spat aga<strong>in</strong>st <strong>the</strong> wall.) Or is it <strong>the</strong> woman who<br />

is caus<strong>in</strong>g all <strong>the</strong> trouble? I don’t know how she looks,<br />

this man’s wife. Maybe she has pout lips of a trouble<br />

maker. Maybe she has sparse hair of a rascal. What<br />

could <strong>the</strong>y be fight<strong>in</strong>g about <strong>in</strong> this cold wea<strong>the</strong>r,<br />

anyway? I th<strong>in</strong>k she is mean. Maybe she is deny<strong>in</strong>g<br />

him <strong>the</strong> sugarcane? But what sort of rude woman<br />

is she who has no feel<strong>in</strong>gs when some of us are dy<strong>in</strong>g<br />

from cold?<br />

Outside <strong>the</strong> hut <strong>the</strong> ra<strong>in</strong> poured gently and <strong>the</strong><br />

chirp<strong>in</strong>g of crickets and croak<strong>in</strong>g of frogs <strong>in</strong>creased.<br />

The man was silent but his m<strong>in</strong>d was <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> next<br />

room. From <strong>the</strong> cracks on <strong>the</strong> partition<strong>in</strong>g wall <strong>the</strong><br />

stranger could hear <strong>the</strong> woman of <strong>the</strong> house moan<strong>in</strong>g<br />

as if <strong>in</strong> some sweet but <strong>in</strong>evitable pa<strong>in</strong>.<br />

The man swallowed hard and cont<strong>in</strong>ued <strong>in</strong> his<br />

wild thoughts: She might have given <strong>in</strong>. The man<br />

might have p<strong>in</strong>ched her backside hard. Maybe <strong>the</strong>y<br />

are mak<strong>in</strong>g love now or what? But <strong>the</strong> man <strong>in</strong> this<br />

house must be very wicked and <strong>in</strong>patient <strong>in</strong>deed. For<br />

how could he make love to a woman <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> presence<br />

of a stranger? But do <strong>the</strong>y know me anyway? Let <strong>the</strong>m<br />

enjoy <strong>the</strong>mselves.<br />

As <strong>the</strong>se thoughts raced through his m<strong>in</strong>d, <strong>the</strong><br />

stranger began to th<strong>in</strong>k about his wife at home. He<br />

felt some long<strong>in</strong>g for his wife and was immediately<br />

overwhelmed with some strange warmth. A stupid<br />

smile lit his face. And he felt good. He left like<br />

runn<strong>in</strong>g home.<br />

Before he could pronounce his wife’s name –<br />

Denya - he heard <strong>the</strong> woman of <strong>the</strong> house shout loudly<br />

as her husband tried to console her with <strong>in</strong>audible<br />

words. The woman hissed and brea<strong>the</strong>d heavily.<br />

The woman’s noise-mak<strong>in</strong>g was followed by a brief<br />

silence when <strong>the</strong> stranger heard <strong>the</strong> piec<strong>in</strong>g shrill of<br />

a baby’s cry.<br />

Wow! So <strong>the</strong>y are blessed with a newborn! God<br />

bless you, good people.<br />

The ra<strong>in</strong> stopped. The man stood, stretched himself<br />

and yawned. He dusted <strong>the</strong> seat of his wet trousers<br />

and felt like pee<strong>in</strong>g.<br />

What name <strong>will</strong> <strong>the</strong> couple give to such a baby<br />

born on ra<strong>in</strong>y day? It must be Jokudu or Lukudu. The<br />

man asked himself as he stared <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> distant world<br />

of his imag<strong>in</strong>ation. He thought about his wife and six<br />

children all liv<strong>in</strong>g under <strong>the</strong> roof of one hut.<br />

I hope that roof is <strong>not</strong> leak<strong>in</strong>g aga<strong>in</strong>. He thought.<br />

If it leaks my children must be on <strong>the</strong>ir feet dodg<strong>in</strong>g<br />

<strong>the</strong> cold ra<strong>in</strong> drops. My wife must be cold too, poor<br />

woman. Suppose <strong>the</strong> ra<strong>in</strong> blew off <strong>the</strong> roof of my hut?<br />

Supposed ra<strong>in</strong> <strong>water</strong> forced <strong>the</strong>ir way through <strong>the</strong><br />

weak mud wall of <strong>the</strong> hut?<br />

The man looked miserable and felt like cry<strong>in</strong>g<br />

when <strong>the</strong>se negative thoughts swept through his<br />

m<strong>in</strong>d. He had a few kilometres to journey through<br />

<strong>the</strong> muddy road to reach his homestead. He was<br />

a bit unhappy. But when <strong>the</strong> newly born baby’s cry<br />

rem<strong>in</strong>ded him where he was he smiled a bit.<br />

When he thought about <strong>the</strong> new born baby’s cry<br />

he remembered his six children. He remembered<br />

<strong>the</strong>m as babies. How does this new baby look like?<br />

Like fa<strong>the</strong>r? Like mo<strong>the</strong>r? Is it a she or he?<br />

He badly wanted to pee.<br />

The ra<strong>in</strong> was over and <strong>the</strong> cold <strong>even</strong><strong>in</strong>g was be<strong>in</strong>g<br />

swallowed by darkness. Fireflies were fly<strong>in</strong>g.<br />

“I didn’t know I brought bless<strong>in</strong>gs to this house.<br />

God bless you abundantly, good people,” he announced<br />

loudly for <strong>the</strong> couple <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> partition to<br />

hear as he collected his gunny sack, threw it over his<br />

shoulder and stepped out of <strong>the</strong> hut.<br />

“I leave you <strong>in</strong> peace.”<br />

The man’s bare feet sloshed <strong>the</strong> ra<strong>in</strong> <strong>water</strong> as he hit<br />

<strong>the</strong> muddy road.<br />

A village<br />

<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

memory<br />

of <strong>water</strong><br />

Osman Sh<strong>in</strong>ger | Khartoum<br />

“The<br />

ra<strong>in</strong> was<br />

over,<br />

fireflies<br />

were<br />

fly<strong>in</strong>g.”<br />

<strong>the</strong>niles6_20151123.<strong>in</strong>dd 24<br />

2015/11/23 2:13 PM

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