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VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY<br />

MARCH <strong>2018</strong><br />

In earshot<br />

ENDURING EARRINGS TRENDS: WHERE<br />

FASHION AND FINE JEWELLERY MEET<br />

Sneak peek<br />

+ +<br />

SUPPLIERS AROUND THE COUNTRY<br />

GIVE AN EXCLUSIVE PREVIEW OF <strong>2018</strong><br />

Group love<br />

THE <strong>2018</strong> BUYING GROUP<br />

REPORT IS IN: STICK TOGETHER


SIGNITY (THAILAND) LTD.<br />

SWAROVSKI GEMSTONES BUSINESS<br />

SIGNITYTHAILAND.OFFICE@SWAROVSKI.COM<br />

T +66(02) 237 2040<br />

F +66(02) 237 2041<br />

SWAROVSKI-GEMSTONES.COM<br />

KARLIE KLOSS<br />

Brilliant Precision<br />

BORN FROM A TRADITION OF<br />

MASTER CRAFTSMANSHIP<br />

VISIT SWAROVSKI-GEMSTONES.COM


WORLD SHINER PTY LTD<br />

Inspired Performance. Year After Year...<br />

WORLD SHINER<br />

World Shiner proudly introduces Argyle Pink Diamonds<br />

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VICTORIA Suite 502, Wales Corner, 227 Collins Street, Melbourne 3000, P: 03 9654 6369, E: melbourne@worldshiner.com<br />

QUEENSLAND Unit 17, Level 11, 138 Albert Street, Brisbane 4000, P: 07 3210 1237 E: brisbane@worldshiner.com<br />

NEW ZEALAND Suite 4K, 47 High Street, Auckland P: 09 358 3443 E: nz@worldshiner.com<br />

WWW.WORLDSHINER.COM<br />

• AUSTRALIA • BELGIUM • CANADA • GERMANY • INDIA • JAPAN • SPAIN • TAIWAN • UNITED KINGDOM • USA • NEW ZEALAND


ENDURING EARRINGS TRENDS: WHERE<br />

FASHION AND FINE JEWELLERY MEET<br />

VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY<br />

SUPPLIERS AROUND THE COUNTRY<br />

GIVE AN EXCLUSIVE PREVIEW OF <strong>2018</strong><br />

MARCH 2017<br />

THE <strong>2018</strong> BUYING GROUP<br />

REPORT IS IN: STICK TOGETHER<br />

CONTENTS<br />

MARCH <strong>2018</strong><br />

13/ 18/ 34/<br />

FEATURES REGULARS BUSINESS<br />

13/ PLAY IT BY EAR<br />

Fashion trends change, but through<br />

them all earrings have stayed.<br />

18/ SNEAK PEEK<br />

An exclusive preview of products<br />

headed for this year’s market.<br />

23/ BUYING GROUPS<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>’s biennial report reviews why<br />

buying groups are still on point.<br />

34/ MOTHER’S DAY<br />

How to boost sales in the lead<br />

up to this special day.<br />

9/ Editorial<br />

10/ Upfront<br />

11/ News<br />

37/ Gems<br />

Colour investigation: diamond<br />

45/ My Store<br />

46/ 10 Years Ago<br />

47/ Calendar<br />

48/ My Bench<br />

50/ Soapbox<br />

Zoё Pook shines a light on the<br />

benefits of fair trade gold.<br />

39/ Business feature<br />

For customer service go back to<br />

basics, Shep Hyken advises.<br />

41/ Selling<br />

Sue Barrett reminds retailers<br />

how to think like buyers.<br />

42/ Management<br />

David Geller shares strategies<br />

to reduce internal theft.<br />

43/ Marketing<br />

Coupons are an easy way to<br />

boost sales, Brian Ewing states.<br />

44/ Logged On<br />

Simon Dell divulges how to cherry<br />

pick the right social media posts.<br />

In earshot<br />

Sneak peek<br />

+ +<br />

Group love<br />

About the front cover:<br />

Earrings are enjoying huge<br />

popularity in the fashion sector,<br />

and have seen the return of<br />

bold statement pieces.<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 5


VITAL<br />

Wales Corner, Suite 1204<br />

227 Collins Street<br />

Melbourne Victoria 3000<br />

Australia<br />

Ph: (03) 9639 1008<br />

Fax: (03) 9639 0179<br />

sales@vitaldiamonds.com.au<br />

www.vitaldiamonds.com.au<br />

Over 35 Years Experience In Diamond Manufacturing & Wholesaling


AUSTRALIA WIDE 1300 886 108<br />

palloys.com.au<br />

Sydney | Melbourne | Brisbane | Perth


EDITORIAL<br />

BUT HANG ON…<br />

Traditional retail is in a confusing state. Indeed,<br />

in some cases, it’s just plain contradictory, and<br />

not just in the local market.<br />

Take, for example, recent news that retail<br />

behemoth Toys ‘R’ Us will close another<br />

200 stores, which comes on the back of an<br />

announcement in September 2017 to<br />

close 180 stores after the company went<br />

into bankruptcy.<br />

At the time, the US toy chain operated 1,600<br />

stores, half of which were in the US. Most<br />

stores and territories outside the US are run on<br />

licensing arrangements and not affected by<br />

the US bankruptcy; there are 39 in Australia.<br />

Many reasons have been given about<br />

the demise of this once-powerful retail<br />

brand but the main factors appear to be<br />

management’s decision to take the company<br />

private in 2005 and the subsequent growth<br />

of online shopping.<br />

People prefer the convenience of shopping<br />

online, so the experts say, but hang on… this<br />

doesn’t explain the rise in new bricks-andmortar<br />

stores around the world – and we are<br />

not just talking about single-store operations.<br />

For example, as Toys ‘R’ Us closed stores,<br />

Chinese fashion retailer Inman effectively<br />

abandoned its online-only model to open<br />

450 traditional retail outlets!<br />

Why the change in business model? When<br />

Inman started in Alibaba’s Tmall in 2008, the<br />

retailer quickly became one of its flagship<br />

brands yet while Inman’s online sales<br />

increased by 39 per cent last year, sales in its<br />

bricks-and-mortar stores rose by 300 per cent.<br />

But hang on… don’t people prefer the<br />

convenience of shopping online and<br />

home delivery?<br />

When Inman’s founder Fang Jianhua first<br />

announced the change in business strategy,<br />

he was widely criticised – many analysts<br />

predicted the plan was doomed – but even<br />

Amazon, the world leader in online shopping,<br />

has opened physical stores: clicks-to-bricks.<br />

There are plenty of other examples of<br />

online-only retailers opening traditional<br />

stores including eyeglass seller Warby Parker,<br />

cosmetics company Birchbox and men’s<br />

clothing store Bonobos.<br />

The decision for ‘e-tailers’ to go traditional<br />

is generally dependent on which product<br />

category they occupy and, yes, the jewellery<br />

industry has its own examples.<br />

In February 2015, we reported on the<br />

increasing importance of multi-channel<br />

retailing when online diamond and jewellery<br />

business Blue Nile announced plans to open<br />

a bricks-and-mortar store. The company was<br />

founded in 1999 as an online-only diamond<br />

retailer and was acquired by a private investor<br />

group last year.<br />

Blue Nile now operates five webrooms – as it<br />

calls its US physical outlets – each averaging<br />

500 to 700 square feet and each with large TV<br />

screens mounted on the walls that display<br />

social media posts from customers. In store,<br />

shoppers can view and try about 400 pieces<br />

of jewellery.<br />

According to various retail experts, online<br />

shopping in Australia only accounts for<br />

I BELIEVE<br />

THAT THE<br />

PERCENTAGE<br />

OF JEWELLERY<br />

BOUGHT<br />

ONLINE IS<br />

INSIGNIFICANT<br />

WHEN<br />

COMPARED<br />

TO OTHER<br />

CONSUMER<br />

CATEGORIES<br />

around 7 per cent of the total retail market.<br />

No one knows how much of that spend<br />

equates to jewellery and watches and I<br />

doubt it’s significant.<br />

Indeed, at the same time Toys ‘R’ Us and Inman<br />

were announcing plans to close and open<br />

more stores respectively, a report emerged on<br />

Amazon’s new Australian operation. It detailed<br />

the popular product categories since Amazon<br />

started trading just before Christmas last year.<br />

Interestingly, jewellery was not among<br />

them. Electronics, men’s and women’s<br />

clothing, health and beauty, home and<br />

kitchen and other products all featured<br />

prominently but not jewellery.<br />

I believe that the percentage of jewellery<br />

bought online is insignificant when<br />

compared to other consumer categories<br />

and I would hazard a guess people who<br />

buy jewellery online are probably not your<br />

customers anyway.<br />

But hang on… this is not a reason for jewellers<br />

to become complacent. The battle between<br />

the online and traditional sectors appears far<br />

from won, which is why traditional jewellers<br />

should be pushing harder than ever to<br />

strengthen their positions in the market.<br />

One way to do this could be as part of a<br />

larger collective. After all, there’s always been<br />

strength in numbers.<br />

Turn to our biennial Buying Group Report on<br />

page 23 for more about that.<br />

Coleby Nicholson<br />

Editor<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 9


UPFRONT<br />

“Buy the best<br />

quality that<br />

you can afford<br />

from a qualified<br />

jeweller you<br />

trust or has been<br />

recommended to<br />

you – and follow<br />

your heart!”<br />

What advice would you give your customer?<br />

MICHAEL ALBRECHT,<br />

MICHAEL ALBRECHT<br />

JEWELLERY<br />

BULLETIN BOARD<br />

n JEWELLERY BYTES<br />

Computer company Dell has<br />

announced it has launched a recycled<br />

gold jewellery collection. The limited<br />

edition collection is sourced from gold<br />

recovered from recycled computer<br />

parts and includes 14 and 18-carat<br />

rings, earrings and cufflinks.<br />

n READY, SET, ASSEMBLE<br />

International beauty and fashion brand<br />

Goop found some serious success<br />

when it categorised its in-store offering<br />

into unique categories such as ‘Under<br />

18’, ‘The Traveller’ and ‘Ridiculous but<br />

Awesome.’ <strong>Jeweller</strong>y retailers could use<br />

this for inspiration and do the same<br />

with their available stock – additional<br />

ideas include ‘Men’, ‘Summer Holiday’<br />

and ‘Date Night’.<br />

n BEJEWELLED TREATS<br />

One retailer cooked up an inventive<br />

way to promote its customised<br />

jewellery offering – selling baked<br />

goods adorned with pearls, diamonds<br />

and sapphires. Retailers could adapt<br />

this idea on a smaller scale for annual<br />

events such as Valentines Day or<br />

Mothers Day. Now that’s some serious<br />

food for thought!<br />

“Don’t bring<br />

mum when<br />

trying to design<br />

your future wife’s<br />

(or your own)<br />

engagement ring.<br />

More often than<br />

not, she’ll make it<br />

even harder.<br />

Sorry mum!”<br />

DIGITAL<br />

BRAINWAVE<br />

LANI WILLIAMS,<br />

WINDFALL JEWELLERY<br />

“Make sure you<br />

drop into the store<br />

once or twice a<br />

year to have your<br />

jewellery cleaned,<br />

checked and to<br />

say hello.”<br />

TONY SOFOULIS,<br />

VILLAGE JEWELLERS<br />

STORY TIME<br />

Say hello to Instagram’s newest features: Stories<br />

Highlights and Stories Archive. Retailers who<br />

use Instagram Stories to post behind the scenes<br />

snippets or to introduce new offerings would be<br />

well advised to take advantage of these new tools,<br />

which allow users to hold on to their fleeting stories<br />

more permanently. Stories Highlights are still stories that disappear after 24 hours;<br />

however, they will now reside permanently on retailer’s profiles, meaning there’s<br />

even more opportunities for consumers to respond and interact. Every story will now<br />

also be automatically saved to Stories Archive, where retailers can also file posts away<br />

for later use. Story time has never been better.<br />

TOP PRODUCT<br />

Love In A Jewel’s 9-carat gold pendant<br />

features a special compartment for storing<br />

a precious memory. It features 26 brilliant<br />

cut diamonds and is available in white gold<br />

and sterling silver. The piece was the most<br />

popular product last month ranked by<br />

views at jewellermagazine.com.<br />

VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN<br />

JEWELLERY INDUSTRY<br />

jewellermagazine.com<br />

Managing Editor<br />

Coleby Nicholson<br />

Assistant Editor<br />

Alex Eugene<br />

alex.eugene@jewellermagazine.com<br />

Journalist<br />

Talia Paz<br />

talia.paz@gunnamattamedia.com<br />

Advertising Manager<br />

Gary Collins<br />

gary.collins@jewellermagazine.com<br />

Digital Manager<br />

Angela Han<br />

angela.han@gunnamattamedia.com<br />

Production Manager<br />

& Graphic Design<br />

Jo De Bono<br />

art@gunnamattamedia.com<br />

Accounts<br />

Paul Blewitt<br />

accounts@gunnamattamedia.com<br />

Subscriptions<br />

info@jewellermagazine.com<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong> is published by:<br />

Gunnamatta Media Pty Ltd<br />

Locked Bag 26, South Melbourne,<br />

VIC 3205 AUSTRALIA<br />

ABN 64 930 790 434<br />

Phone: +61 3 9696 7200<br />

Fax: +61 3 9696 8313<br />

info@gunnamattamedia.com<br />

Copyright: All material appearing<br />

in <strong>Jeweller</strong> is subject to copyright.<br />

Reproduction in whole or in part is<br />

strictly forbidden without prior written<br />

consent of the publisher.<br />

Gunnamatta Media Pty Ltd strives to<br />

report accurately and fairly and it is<br />

our policy to correct significant errors<br />

of fact and misleading statements in<br />

the next available issue. All statements<br />

made, although based on information<br />

believed to be reliable and accurate at<br />

the time, cannot be guaranteed and<br />

no fault or liability can be accepted<br />

for error or omission. Any comment<br />

relating to subjective opinions should<br />

be addressed to the editor.<br />

Advertising: The publisher reserves<br />

the right to omit or alter any<br />

advertisement to comply with<br />

Australian law and the advertiser<br />

agrees to indemnify the publisher for<br />

all damages or liabilities arising from<br />

the published material.<br />

10 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong>


NEWS<br />

NEWS<br />

“Best ever” buying group conference<br />

Industry initiatives, business solutions for the<br />

‘new normal’ environment and the launch of<br />

an international diamond brand were all on<br />

the agenda at Nationwide <strong>Jeweller</strong>’s recent<br />

annual conference.<br />

The buying group’s <strong>2018</strong> Time Out<br />

conference, held from February 9-11, drew<br />

around 150 attendees who represented 80<br />

stores across Australia and New Zealand.<br />

Managing director Colin Pocklington said<br />

feedback was that it had been one of<br />

Nationwide’s “best ever” events.<br />

“We were pleasantly surprised, but<br />

somewhat shocked by the success of our<br />

buying day,” Pocklington said. “All of the<br />

content was structured around our five<br />

strategies – with 21 action points – for<br />

members to prosper in <strong>2018</strong> and beyond.<br />

“A few suppliers said it was the best ever. We<br />

will have a better idea in about a week when<br />

we collate the order totals,” he added.<br />

Despite the current ‘flat’ conditions of the<br />

industry, Pocklington offered pragmatic but<br />

positive advice for jewellers.<br />

“I presented an analysis showing that the<br />

difference between doing nothing, and<br />

implementing [our business strategies]<br />

could be a sales increase of up to 85 per<br />

cent. It sounds a lot, but one action alone<br />

makes a 14 to 18 per cent difference.”<br />

Local horse inspired jewellery<br />

In a move expected to provide a point of<br />

difference in the local market, New Zealand<br />

supplier Fabuleux Vous has collaborated<br />

with two renowned equestrians on a<br />

jewellery range inspired by horses,<br />

Greg Smith and Corey Miln. The collection<br />

is named ‘Breeze’ after a champion<br />

racing horse.<br />

NATIONWIDE FEBRUARY CONFERENCE: “BEST EVER”<br />

The founder of Indian diamond brand Divine<br />

Solitaires, Jignesh Mehta also flew in for<br />

the conference to present diamond and<br />

marketing support material to members.<br />

11 orders were placed by members after<br />

the presentation “on the spot” and more are<br />

expected to be received shortly.<br />

Apple Watch<br />

outperforms<br />

Swiss industry<br />

According to a report from research<br />

company International Data Corporation<br />

(IDC), Apple sold more watches than the<br />

entire Swiss watch industry in the fourth<br />

quarter of 2017.<br />

While the Swiss Watch Industry (SWI)<br />

reported 6.8 million units sold between<br />

October – December, Apple’s global<br />

smartwatch shipments reached<br />

approximately 8 million units.<br />

While figures are only estimates as<br />

Apple does not report quarterly unit<br />

sales and the SWI does not include sales<br />

of watches within Switzerland, Apple’s<br />

increased watch sales have been largely<br />

attributed to the release of its third<br />

version of its Apple Watch, which began<br />

shipping in late September 2017.<br />

Francisco Jeronimo, research director<br />

at IDC European Mobile Devices, was<br />

reported as stating the figures showed<br />

Apple was starting to “increase its<br />

dominance” over the watch industry.<br />

“Even if people prefer the look of<br />

mechanical or quartz watches, Apple<br />

could easily switch into that market<br />

with hybrid models that look like Swiss<br />

watches, but talk to smartphones,” he<br />

added.<br />

“There is always a spike in Q4 that<br />

cannot be sustained throughout the<br />

year. [However], other industries made<br />

the mistake of ignoring this sort of threat<br />

for too long,” Jeronimo added.<br />

The International Data Corporation is a<br />

global advisor on market intelligence<br />

and consumer technology markets. It is<br />

headquartered in Boston and has offices<br />

across Europe, America and Asia-Pacific.<br />

“I have known Greg and Corey for more than<br />

12 months now and [the partnership] came<br />

up in conversation due to Greg’s strong<br />

fashion background,” Fabuleux Vous director<br />

Director Helen Thompson-Carter said.<br />

The Breeze collection consists of pieces<br />

for men and women and is crafted from<br />

925 sterling silver. Items include necklaces,<br />

pendants, cuff links, tie slides, stud earrings<br />

and disc charm bracelets.<br />

The collection will be available through<br />

FIRST VIEW: FABULEUX VOUS BREEZE COLLECTION<br />

Fabuleux Vous, select equine retailers,<br />

and Smith and Miln’s joint business GC<br />

Equestrian from 15 <strong>March</strong>.<br />

The collection will be launched at New<br />

Zealand’s renowned equestrian event ‘Horse<br />

of the Year’ which runs from 13 – 18 <strong>March</strong>.<br />

+ MORE BREAKING NEWS<br />

JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM<br />

APPLE CHALLENGES SWISS MADE WATCHES<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 11


NEWS<br />

TW Steel motorsport deal extended<br />

Dutch watch brand TW Steel and Australia’s<br />

Red Bull Holden Racing Team’s ongoing<br />

collaboration has resulted in the launch of a<br />

new limited edition timepiece.<br />

Phil Edwards, managing director of TW<br />

Steel’s local supplier Duraflex Group Australia<br />

(DGA), confirmed a new Red Bull Holden<br />

Racing Team Limited Edition watch would<br />

be released this month.<br />

“Retailers have capitalised on the<br />

dynamic brand alignment between the<br />

Red Bull Holden Racing Team and TW Steel.<br />

The power and influence of the Red Bull<br />

logo drives foot traffic and in turn, sales,”<br />

Edwards said.<br />

“Retailers have had the opportunity to<br />

leverage this partnership and the reach<br />

– of both the Red Bull and Holden/Supercars<br />

Perth Mint to launch cryptocurrency<br />

The Perth Mint has announced it is<br />

developing its own cryptocurrency that will<br />

be backed by precious metals.<br />

According to reports, Perth Mint chief<br />

executive officer Richard Hayes said that the<br />

prospect of offering a ‘crypto-gold’ product<br />

was most likely a “world first”.<br />

“With a crypto-gold or a crypto-precious<br />

metals offering, what you will see is that<br />

gold is actually backing it,” Hayes said.<br />

“It will have all the benefits of something<br />

that is on a distributed ledger that settles<br />

Olivia Burton gets physical<br />

UK jewellery brand Olivia Burton will open<br />

its first store six years after launching as an<br />

online watch retailer.<br />

The venture is said to be a positive sign of<br />

an online jewellery business moving into<br />

bricks-and-mortar, despite tough retail<br />

trading conditions.<br />

Olivia Burton is distributed by West End<br />

Collection in Australia and New Zealand<br />

and is stocked by Selfridges, Topshop, David<br />

Jones and Myer.<br />

Lesa Bennett and Jemma Fennings founded<br />

Olivia Burton in 2012. After its launch,<br />

the brand expanded into wholesale and<br />

brands – to tap into a new and lucrative<br />

customer segment and capitalise on<br />

the hot demand for merchandise and<br />

limited products.”<br />

The new Limited Edition watch was<br />

scheduled to be launched in time for the<br />

opening round of the annual Adelaide<br />

500 motor racing event .<br />

very quickly, that is easy to trade, but is<br />

backed by precious metals so there is<br />

actually something behind it.”<br />

Hayes said a date for the launch of the<br />

crypto-gold product had not yet been<br />

confirmed, but he expected “significant<br />

movement” in the next twelve to<br />

eighteen months.<br />

Established in 1899, The Perth Mint is<br />

Australia’s only gold and silver facility<br />

accredited by the London Bullion<br />

Market Association.<br />

introduced jewellery to its portfolio. Its<br />

watch offering, which comprises Miyota<br />

quartz movements, stainless steel and<br />

leather straps, is available in 27 countries.<br />

+ MORE BREAKING NEWS<br />

JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM<br />

IN BRIEF<br />

*<br />

BLING ON THE MENU<br />

McDonalds have commissioned<br />

international jewellery designer Nadine<br />

Ghosn to create a burger ring dubbed<br />

the ‘Bling Mac’. The stackable ring<br />

features an 18k gold bun and white<br />

diamond sesame seeds, plus other<br />

precious gems representing the meat<br />

patty, lettuce, cheese and special sauce.<br />

The ring is reportedly valued at over<br />

AU$15,000 and will be given away to one<br />

lucky Twitter winner.<br />

*<br />

BASELWORLD LOSES BROADS<br />

Watch brand Breitling will remove<br />

provocatively dressed women from<br />

its Baselworld pop art display. Chief<br />

executive George Kern recently told<br />

Swiss newspaper SonntagsZeitung that<br />

such depictions of women “were no<br />

longer suitable and do not reflect<br />

values of today’s society.”<br />

*<br />

RARE DIAMOND COIN RELEASED<br />

The Perth Mint has revealed an 18-carat<br />

gold coin with fancy coloured pink<br />

diamonds. The ‘Jewelled Phoenix’ was<br />

crafted from 99.9 per cent pure gold and<br />

inset with 1.22 carats of rare, natural fancy<br />

pink diamonds from the Argyle diamond<br />

mine, Western Australia. Featuring a<br />

flowering paulownia tree and priced at<br />

$188,000, only eight coins exist, making<br />

it one of the rarest collectible coins in the<br />

world. Manager of minted products Neil<br />

Vance told ABC News: ““The phoenix is<br />

meant to bring happiness and prosperity,<br />

so from that point of view it’s very<br />

popular in Chinese culture.”<br />

*<br />

UNIQUE DIAMOND ON DISPLAY<br />

A 102.34-carat white diamond<br />

described as one of the world’s most<br />

“extraordinarily rare” stones was recently<br />

put on public display in London by<br />

Sotheby’s. According to the auction<br />

house, the D colour, flawless, round<br />

brilliant-cut diamond – which will be<br />

available for private purchase only – is<br />

said to be the only known round brilliant<br />

cut diamond over 100 carats that is<br />

‘perfect’ in colour, clarity and cut.<br />

12 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong>


EARRINGS<br />

The<br />

BOLD<br />

and the<br />

beautiful<br />

WHEN IT COMES TO EARRINGS<br />

THIS SEASON, IT’S SIMPLE:<br />

THE BIGGER, THE BETTER.<br />

ALEX EUGENE REPORTS.<br />

he age of statement jewellery is back: because for today’s styleconscious<br />

consumer, standing out from the crowd is essential.<br />

When it comes to the most-wearable piece, earrings win handsdown.<br />

Whether feminine, masculine or androgynous, adults and<br />

teenagers of both genders all use earrings to set off their outfits. There’s just<br />

something about them that’s perfect for everyone.<br />

This makes earrings a retailer’s best weapon in terms of sales. After all,<br />

earrings have proven through the centuries to be some of the most<br />

enduring accessories.<br />

“Scatter pins and earrings, charm bracelets and necklaces were worn daily<br />

in the twentieth century,” journalist Maureen Zambito wrote in January for<br />

online news site The Intelligencer. “By the 1960s, fashion had changed and<br />

trends brought less-ladylike looks and a hippie, mod fashion… but still<br />

earrings were important.”<br />

WHAT’S OLD IS NEW: A COMEBACK<br />

In the 1960s, English model Twiggy was turning heads by pairing loud outfits<br />

with enormous plastic earrings. In the 1970s, David Bowie’s bedazzling<br />

outfits often included bright, dangly earrings – both pairs and singles. In the<br />

1980s, pop icons Madonna, Prince and George Michael were just a few to<br />

continue the trend.<br />

The vintage look is now well and truly mainstream. Today’s jewellery<br />

designers are re-working styles from all the major fashion eras and earrings<br />

are no exception.<br />

“We’ve seen a major trend in statement earrings for the past year or so and<br />

that seems to be strong for the coming year as well,” says Nina Agerskov<br />

Myrlund, communications manager at Dryberg/Kern, a brand carried by<br />

Australian supplier JLM.<br />

According to Myrlund, the trend for wearing a silver earring in one ear and<br />

gold in the other is increasing, while Cheryle Roberts, managing director of<br />

supplier Stones & Silver, says hoop earrings – both small and large – have<br />

been the brand’s best-selling category at recent trade shows.<br />

“It looks like the 1980s disco era is making a comeback and it’s even stronger<br />

for <strong>2018</strong>,” Roberts notes.<br />

Chloe Sandland, marketing manager at Buckley London, believes that<br />

designs have become more “daring”, with large, colourful statement earrings<br />

hitting mainstream fashion.<br />

“Chain and tassel drop earrings, oversized hoops and mismatched styles<br />

have all recently been introduced to the high street,” Sandland says, adding,<br />

“Our Autumn/Winter <strong>2018</strong> collections feature earrings with mixed shapes,<br />

multiple settings and a focus on drop styles.”<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 13


®<br />

TONES & SILVER<br />

WHOLESALERS OF QUALITY JEWELLERY<br />

ESTABLISHED & TRUSTED SINCE 2003<br />

JLM<br />

FABULEUX VOUS<br />

Ph: +61 3 9587 1215<br />

Email: info@stonesandsilver.com.au<br />

Helen Thompson-Carter, director of Fabuleux<br />

Vous also agrees that the trend to wear one<br />

short and one long earring is currently in<br />

vogue, having gathered momentum in the<br />

past six months.<br />

“Earrings are going to be big – in size,<br />

statement, and a dare-to-be-different quality,”<br />

she says. “Colour is in!”<br />

Brisbane-based gem dealer Charles Lawson<br />

also says he has seen designers creating “twin<br />

earrings where each earring is matched in<br />

style but not identical to the other”.<br />

“In the fashion side of things, there are a lot<br />

of colourful tassel earrings coming through,”<br />

he says. “This trend can be translated to fine<br />

jewellery easily by using a top stone in bright<br />

coloured gems with interesting shapes like<br />

flat-cut ruby, rough shards of tourmaline and<br />

tassels made using fine chain.”<br />

Lawson also believes the trends will translate<br />

to the local market: “I am most excited to see<br />

many different coloured stones used together<br />

to create stunning designs. These often use<br />

opal as a centre stone.”<br />

According to Pastiche director Amy Bradley,<br />

top sellers over summer for the supplier<br />

have been “large, fine hoops with interesting<br />

details, as well as our tassel earrings in<br />

various colours”.<br />

The rapidly-expanding penchant for<br />

layering is also allowing consumers to wear<br />

earrings of different styles all at once. “As the<br />

jewellery-layering trend continues to grow,<br />

we’re expecting petite hoops that can be<br />

easily paired with other pieces to be big for<br />

<strong>2018</strong>,” explains Jemma Fennings, co-founder<br />

of London-based line Olivia Burton. “We’ve<br />

also responded to the trend for multiple ear<br />

piercings with a new line of teeny-tiny hoops.”<br />

If all these crazy trends sound out of<br />

alignment with fine jewellery, think again.<br />

TRENDING: THE FASHIONABLE RETURN<br />

OF FINE JEWELLERY<br />

While fashion trends change like the wind,<br />

precious metals and stones last a lifetime.<br />

This is one reason why fine jewellery<br />

becomes sentimental and treasured, while<br />

fashion jewellery is considered seasonal and<br />

somewhat disposable.<br />

The lines have blurred between fashion and<br />

fine jewellery in recent years, as suppliers<br />

from both sectors incorporate different<br />

materials and styles in a bid to occupy the<br />

upper middle market.<br />

Fine jewellery is also increasingly seen in a<br />

fashion context as celebrities and fashion<br />

influencers turn towards bespoke statement<br />

pieces, like Hollywood style icon Elizabeth<br />

Taylor before them in the extravagant 1950s.<br />

Last month, music and fashion goddess<br />

Beyoncé made a gob-smacking appearance<br />

at the Grammy Awards. Dressed all in black,<br />

the pop star rocked a pair of 70-carat,<br />

diamond and titanium drop earrings<br />

designed by Lorraine Schwartz valued at over<br />

$US6 million ($AU7.6 m).<br />

Cue what has been dubbed “the fashionable<br />

return of fine jewellery” by style gurus<br />

around the world. No longer considered only<br />

appropriate for formal occasions, precious<br />

pieces are reclaiming runways across the US<br />

and Europe, and Australia is set to follow.


EARRINGS<br />

Consequently, jewellery retailers now have customers asking for the<br />

best of both worlds.<br />

“We’ve seen that consumers are looking to regularly update their<br />

jewellery box with quality pieces that will stand the test of time,”<br />

Fennings says.<br />

Yellow gold, historically the domain of mature markets and high-end<br />

pieces, has also now become a hot item for the young.<br />

Bradley agrees: “Yellow gold is definitely on the rise; it has made a<br />

smooth transition from traditional jewellery items like heirlooms and<br />

wedding bands into the fashion jewellery market.”<br />

In response, Pastiche’s youth brand Dear Addison recently launched<br />

the Sunshine Collection, themed around “sweet and delicate yellow<br />

gold-plated pieces”.<br />

THE YOUNG ONES<br />

Beyonce’s red-carpet appearance is important because she’s a hero<br />

for Millennials, Gen Y and even the upcoming ‘iGen’ age group. Young<br />

consumers want what celebrities have.<br />

“It’s all about social media these days. The Millennials find inspiration<br />

online by looking to influencers that they relate to,” Myrlund explains.<br />

“It’s peer-review golden days and in order to reach the younger<br />

generations, we need to meet them on their ground – Instagram,<br />

Facebook, and Pinterest.”<br />

Fennings says that Olivia Burton has a “particularly loyal, active<br />

following on Instagram”, and that engaging customers in online<br />

conversations about new products has boosted sales. However,<br />

Thompson-Carter points out that those same generations want<br />

a lower price point, holding “no sentimental value or emotional<br />

connection to the pieces purchased”.<br />

“Looking good is what is important,” she explains. “Social-media<br />

platforms with quality imagery, brand association and influencers’<br />

choices are important to this group.”<br />

So while Beyonce’s million-dollar diamond earrings are the desired<br />

look, jewellery designers must strike the right balance between<br />

materials and price.<br />

“The demand for bigger styles can put an added pressure on suppliers,<br />

and consequently retailers, to maintain competitive prices,” Bradley<br />

says, adding that Pastiche is using stainless steel to address the<br />

demand for earrings in prestige styles at affordable prices. “Producing<br />

STONES & SILVER<br />

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PASTICHE<br />

STONES & SILVER<br />

the bigger styles in stainless steel allows us to deliver on size with a<br />

desirable price tag.”<br />

The brand is also experiencing success with single earrings.<br />

“We have definitely seen a growth in our earring sales and have<br />

increased our offering, developing many more designs that are<br />

standalone rather than simply part of a set,” she adds.<br />

Sandland also points to single earrings as a practical way of lowering<br />

price points for consumers.<br />

“Two-part earrings and earrings that can be worn multiple ways were<br />

recently introduced to the Buckley London range and we see this<br />

trend continuing into <strong>2018</strong>,” she explains. “These earrings offer great<br />

value for money, giving the wearer numerous styles in one product.”<br />

If satisfying the demand for fine jewellery wasn’t challenging enough,<br />

Lawson says younger clients are also keen to own custom-made<br />

jewellery, but of course at affordable prices.<br />

“They don’t want to spend too much so [they choose] a pair of<br />

calibrated-size citrine stones or some Australian opal free-forms,” he<br />

says. “They are also more open to using the rough gemstone material.”<br />

Myrlund says the rise of lower-end chain stores, which are able to<br />

meet market demand with demi-fine and imitation precious jewellery,<br />

present a welcome challenge. “Giants such as H&M and Zara will retail<br />

a pair of statement earrings at almost one-tenth of our price,” she says.<br />

“The quality is, of course, incomparable to ours; however, it pushes us<br />

to perform our best in metrics such as branding, production, design<br />

and marketing – [the chains] keep us at the top of our game.”<br />

Inevitably, as fine jewellery becomes more accessible – or at least the<br />

look of fine jewellery – the view of when and how it should be worn is<br />

changing also.<br />

ACCESSORIES WITH BLING<br />

In <strong>2018</strong>, it’s normal to dress for the beach but accessorise for a grand<br />

ball. Whether it’s denim and diamonds, or cotton t-shirts and gold –<br />

there’s no limit on using fine jewellery to complement loose, lazy looks.<br />

Anissa Kermiche, jeweller and fashion editor of WhoWhatWear.com<br />

wrote in December 2017 that her single Mobile Doré Earring – made<br />

with 18-carat yellow gold and a freshwater pearl – would be “perfect<br />

with jeans and a t-shirt”.<br />

Sandland says Buckley London has also seen demand for earrings that


EARRINGS<br />

suit various dress styles both as singles and in pairs. “Although larger<br />

statement earrings have been a major fashion trend, we have also<br />

seen a rise in sales of our more classic and simple earring styles,” she<br />

explains. “This shows that there is still a demand for earrings that can<br />

be worn every day and for any occasion.”<br />

AROUND THE WORLD<br />

In the fashion world, it’s common knowledge that what is seen in<br />

Europe and the US will hit Australia within two to four years. With that<br />

in mind, Australian designers are planning accordingly.<br />

“We always have very exciting releases of on-trend jewellery,<br />

sometimes well ahead of consumer demand,” Roberts says. “For<br />

example, our black rhodium-plated products have started very strong<br />

in <strong>2018</strong>, even though we released them in early 2017 with little interest<br />

at that time.<br />

“Large hoops, statement pieces, rose gold-plated earrings and filigree<br />

designs are still increasing in popularity. Very few are after the small<br />

and dainty traditional earring this year,” she adds.<br />

Notably, and in direct opposition to this statement, Fennings<br />

commented recently about their mostly UK-based customers: “We’ve<br />

noticed a shift away from statement jewellery towards micro styles.<br />

Our collections are characterised by delicate proportions so it’s really<br />

exciting to see people are falling for daintier pieces.”<br />

For Bradley, a seamless combination of trend and taste is paramount.<br />

“We are always watching trends around the world,” she says. “Our<br />

design team is mindful to consider and align with new trends during<br />

their design process, but in a way that is distinctly Pastiche and caters<br />

to our loyal fan base.”<br />

Over at Fabuleux Vous, Thompson-Carter says, “We follow what is<br />

happening globally – especially Europe and the US – and try to stay as<br />

far ahead of the game as we can. Because we work with some brilliant<br />

suppliers, we are well positioned to bring new and interesting quality<br />

designs to the market.”<br />

Even as a gem dealer, Lawson admits that fashion is equally important<br />

to his business.<br />

“I do need to keep stock of the next big trend. With the Pantone<br />

colour of the year being violet, I<br />

have acquired some beautiful purple<br />

and violet gems such as amethyst,<br />

garnet and sapphire to meet the<br />

demand,” he says.<br />

As fine jewellery and mainstream<br />

fashion collide again in <strong>2018</strong>, rising<br />

demand for statement pieces<br />

means jewellers can expect a larger<br />

demographic of shoppers.<br />

Whether consumers are young<br />

or old, big spenders or frugal, earrings<br />

are on the must-have<br />

list for all of them. i<br />

JLM


SNEAK PEEK<br />

It’s a<br />

sneak<br />

peek<br />

WITH <strong>2018</strong> IN FULL SWING, MANY RETAILERS HAVE<br />

BEEN WAITING WITH BATED BREATH FOR THE NEWEST<br />

JEWELLERY RELEASES. NOW, JEWELLER HAS ROUNDED<br />

UP AN EXCLUSIVE SNEAK PEEK OF WHAT’S SOON TO<br />

HIT THE MARKET – SO EXCLUSIVE, IN FACT, THAT SOME<br />

ARE STILL AT SKETCH LEVEL. FEAST YOUR EYES…<br />

Allure South Sea Pearls<br />

This exclusive sketch is the first view of a collection that<br />

highlights the contrast between nature’s elements. The<br />

pictured piece is 18-carat white gold, with round brilliant cut<br />

white diamonds and Australian South Sea pearls.<br />

Bolt International<br />

Named after one of the country’s most popular<br />

beaches, Bausele Australia’s latest creation ‘Noosa’<br />

encases grains of sand from Whitehaven beach<br />

to keep with you forever. Swiss made, and<br />

50m water resistant.<br />

Couture Kingdom<br />

Created to mark Disney’s 90th birthday, Couture Kingdom<br />

presents the Mickey Mouse Limited Edition Collectable<br />

series, to be released in October.<br />

18 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong>


Silver Fusion<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

Cudworth<br />

This bracelet from Tateossian London features<br />

frosted striped agate stone and wood beads<br />

combined, finished off with highly polished<br />

sterling silver gear sticks in the centre.<br />

Stunning European 925 sterling silver<br />

jewellery now available in Australia & NZ<br />

Daniel Bentley<br />

Borne from a decade’s worth of Danish architecture<br />

experience, each hand crafted Daniel Bentley piece reflects<br />

Bentley’s fascination with Danish design. With sharp edges<br />

and a striking contrast of brushed and polished surfaces, the<br />

new ‘Tribute’ collection is sleek and modern.<br />

Norwegian<br />

Children’s<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

Fabuleux Vous<br />

Created to capture the essence of love, ‘the Heart<br />

series’ features delicate sterling silver pendants for<br />

earrings and necklaces and is available now.<br />

Tahitian Pearls<br />

AUSTRALIA<br />

Heart & Grace<br />

Designed to expand on their bracelet<br />

range that was released in December<br />

2017, these pieces are pending release.<br />

Pictured are the Essentielle rose gold<br />

double chains petite hexagon necklace,<br />

and the Idylle rose gold marble hexagon<br />

pendant necklace.<br />

South Sea cultured black<br />

pearls from the pristine<br />

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<strong>Jeweller</strong>y Findings<br />

for Repairs &<br />

New Creations<br />

Dryberg/Kern – JLM<br />

The ‘Alecia earpost’ stud sets are also available in yellow<br />

gold or rose gold. They come adorned with multiple facet<br />

crystals and logo design.<br />

Les Georgettes<br />

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Now<br />

From the Les Précieuses collection, the<br />

bestselling ‘Girafe’ design bracelet is patent<br />

yellow leather and bluestone, with a gold<br />

finish and a touch of sparkle. 40mm length,<br />

and available from this month.<br />

Nikki Lissoni – Duraflex<br />

Nikki Lissoni is an interchangeable collection that “allows<br />

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Each piece is designed by Dutch and Thai designers and<br />

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From the new Silver Enamel collection released last month, these brightly coloured links<br />

are available for their personalised, composable bracelets. Distributed by Timesupply.


Oozoo<br />

From Pernille Croydon <strong>Jeweller</strong>y, Denmark,<br />

the new North Collection comprises the<br />

‘Glacier’ necklace inspired by the natural<br />

beauty of Iceland, the piece is 18-carat gold<br />

plated sterling sliver, with blue milk glass.<br />

Osjag<br />

From Breuning, Germany comes the Pure Elegance<br />

collection. This 9-carat gold ring includes black diamonds,<br />

and is also available in 14 and 18-carat gold, with a choice<br />

of rose, yellow or white gold.<br />

Pastiche<br />

The new Dusk to Dawn Collection for Autumn/Winter, released<br />

in January by Pastiche is “inspired by light and shade, and the<br />

beauty of the moments between”. Pictured is the rising sun set,<br />

made from stainless steel in a warm rose gold.<br />

Pink Kimberley – Sams Group<br />

These Kimberley Rosala, Soiree and Prose rings feature superb fancy cut<br />

Argyle pink diamonds that are surrounded by a double halo of white<br />

and Argyle pink diamonds. Crafted in 18-carat rose and white gold.<br />

Seiko<br />

To celebrate the 25th anniversary of the Grand Seiko 9F<br />

quartz caliber watch, a commemorative collection of<br />

just 1,500 pieces will be released in April. Pictured is the<br />

second commemorative edition with 18-carat gold bezel.


Shriro<br />

Landing at the end of this month, the GST400-1A9 is shock<br />

and magnetic resistant, features LED lights and world time,<br />

and is crafted from stainless steel.<br />

Stones & Silver<br />

This round filigree necklace is 925-carat sterling silver,<br />

with rose gold plating and comes with a 45cm+5cm<br />

extension necklace. Matching earrings are also available.<br />

Tahitian Pearls<br />

Featuring the beautiful colour of<br />

Tahitian pearls, this genuine silver ring is<br />

hand assembled in Australia.<br />

Thomas Sabo – Duraflex<br />

“Go, collect and celebrate life” – that’s the spirit of the<br />

new Generation Charm Club collection from Thomas<br />

Sabo. Featuring high quality hand crafted pieces, the new<br />

designs include vintage symbols, letters and talismans to<br />

allow the wearer a true expression of their uniqueness.<br />

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BUYING GROUPS<br />

Birds<br />

of a<br />

feather<br />

etail buying groups began as a way for<br />

different businesses to band together to<br />

source better prices and products as a<br />

collective. It was also was a way to gain<br />

a competitive edge over your rival however, in<br />

today’s digital age your ‘local competitor’ is just as<br />

likely to be overseas.<br />

Worse, small business owners now find themselves<br />

competing with international online giants as well<br />

as chain stores, which has meant that local retailers<br />

must continually innovate.<br />

In addition, the changing marketplace has meant<br />

that Australia’s three jewellery buying groups have<br />

had to refocus their strategies to accommodate<br />

shifting consumer shopping habits and, what<br />

many now call, the ‘new normal’ of retail trade.<br />

Has there ever been a greater need for birds of a<br />

feather to flock together?<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>’s <strong>2018</strong> biennial Buying Group Report<br />

offers some answers. Read on …<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 23


BUYING GROUPS<br />

Birds of a feather<br />

together<br />

stick<br />

THE CHALLENGES FOR BRICKS–AND–MORTAR RETAILERS ARE<br />

SHOWING NO SIGNS OF ABATING. ALEX EUGENE REPORTS ON WHY IT’S<br />

STILL A SMART MOVE FOR RETAILERS TO BELONG TO A BUYING GROUP.<br />

hallenging is the word Mike Dyer, sales manager Retail Edge uses to<br />

describe the current retail environment. When asked to expand, he laughs<br />

and calls it “bloody challenging”.<br />

“Having said that, January was reasonably good, enough for people to be<br />

noticeable,” Dyer says, adding that he intends to keep an eye on developments.<br />

Two years ago, when <strong>Jeweller</strong>’s last biennial buying-groups report was published,<br />

industry consensus was similar – a mixture of factors had combined to create “flat”<br />

retail trading conditions. These factors included rising rents in shopping centres,<br />

conservative spending habits of consumers and, inevitably, the growing impact of<br />

online shopping. All of these are still issues today, leading some industry analysts<br />

to dub flatter retail conditions as “the new normal”.<br />

“The new normal is the most significant challenge that most retailers will ever<br />

have faced,” says Colin Pocklington, managing director of Nationwide <strong>Jeweller</strong>s.<br />

“The changes in retail, particularly in discretionary spending, have been and will<br />

continue to be quite dramatic. In Australia, these changes have been exacerbated<br />

by a prolonged period of stagnant income growth and unemployment,” he adds.<br />

After interviewing the heads of all three major buying groups in Australia, one<br />

strong message comes through: in hard times, sticking together is essential.<br />

“We all need to work together as an industry to ensure the simplest path from<br />

manufacture to sale,” says Leading Edge general manager Joshua Zarb.<br />

Carson Webb, general manager of Showcase <strong>Jeweller</strong>s, also believes the power<br />

of community is invaluable.<br />

“Many of the long-term retailers who belong with buying groups will tell you that<br />

they are not just members for discounts – those days are long gone,” he says.<br />

Zarb and Webb aren’t the only industry stakeholders who remain confident in<br />

the face of adversity. Dominique Lamb, CEO and director of the National Retail<br />

Association, has great faith in the strength of jewellers.<br />

“This is nothing new to Aussie retailers who have proven time and again how<br />

adaptable and innovative they can be,” she says.<br />

THE DIGITAL BOGEYMAN<br />

Much has been written about the negative effect of internet shopping on<br />

traditional retailers. But according to Dyer, e-commerce is not as heavily to<br />

blame for dwindling jewellery sales as some might think.<br />

“The industry certainly isn’t dying in the face of online sales – there’s no doubt in<br />

my mind about that,” he says. “From what I’ve observed with our clients, typical<br />

online sales are at best around eight per cent of [total] sales.”<br />

Dyer says this is because online stores still can’t replicate the sales opportunities<br />

24 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong>


that come from face-to-face interaction.<br />

“Because of the emotional attachment and<br />

the dollar value of the product, and therefore<br />

the risk involved, there’s still a significant<br />

amount of face-to-face contact and the<br />

ability to sell based on the intrinsic value<br />

of the product, rather than just price alone,”<br />

he explains.<br />

Lamb dismisses the idea that traditional<br />

jewellers should cry ‘unfair’ about the<br />

emergence of online retailing.<br />

“The idea of clicks versus bricks is no longer<br />

relevant as technology has become a<br />

fundamental component of retailers’ overall<br />

strategies,” she explains.<br />

“This has enabled retailers to provide a far<br />

more comprehensive shopping experience.<br />

Participation is the key component for the<br />

modern consumer so retailers are now<br />

moving toward offering multiple streams to<br />

increase digital engagement, as well as instore<br />

offerings,” Lamb continues.<br />

“Each of these enhances the other to create a<br />

true, omni-channel approach.”<br />

This doesn’t mean jewellers who feel left<br />

behind in the digital revolution should panic.<br />

In fact, this is exactly where buying groups<br />

come in. All three groups have understood<br />

from the beginning of the digital era how<br />

crucial it is to be on board, and have plenty of<br />

solutions to help their members.<br />

“We are digitally savvy and have the skills for<br />

members to ask anything related to social<br />

media, video and photography,” Webb says.<br />

“We also have many free assets for them<br />

including product and non-product image<br />

downloads – our members should not want<br />

for anything in this department.”<br />

Zarb is also quick to point out the digital tools<br />

available for Leading Edge members.<br />

“A seamless online and in-store experience<br />

features heavily on our radar at Leading Edge.<br />

“For us as a buying group, we will continue<br />

to invest in this area to ensure our members<br />

have access to the technology to help them<br />

compete in this new digital world,” he says.<br />

Nationwide’s approach is no different.<br />

“We continue to update and modify the<br />

many benefits and services that we offer in<br />

order to stay ahead of the game and provide<br />

the best possible support for the retailers in<br />

our group,” Pocklington confirms.<br />

NECESSITY IS THE MOTHER OF INVENTION<br />

Internet technology has gone into overdrive<br />

but so have creative solutions, with new<br />

services and ideas popping up everywhere in<br />

retail, according to Lamb.<br />

“Retailers here and globally are already<br />

“THE GROWTH<br />

WILL BE IN THE<br />

ONLINE SECTOR,<br />

THEREFORE BUYING<br />

GROUPS SHOULD<br />

BE OFFERING<br />

RETAILERS<br />

ASSISTANCE<br />

WITH THIS”<br />

RUSSELL<br />

ZIMMERMAN<br />

partnering with tech companies and investing<br />

more in areas like conversational commerce,<br />

the use of artificial intelligence and chat bots<br />

to interact with customers. This generates<br />

incredible feedback and data capture on what<br />

customers actually want so retailers can refine<br />

their offerings even further,” Lamb explains.<br />

Russell Zimmerman, executive director of<br />

the Australian Retailers Association, says it is<br />

important for buying groups to lead the way<br />

in this area.<br />

“The growth in retail will be in the online<br />

sector, therefore buying groups should be<br />

offering their retailers assistance with this<br />

– from assisting with websites to delivery<br />

support via secure, fast, efficient and costeffective<br />

delivery systems,” he says.<br />

Zarb says this is exactly what Leading Edge is<br />

doing: “In <strong>2018</strong> we will see refinements to all<br />

our platforms and the launch of a bespoke<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y Concierge app, bringing the<br />

in-store and online experience together to<br />

increase sales.”<br />

It’s top of mind at Showcase too.<br />

“There’s probably never been a better time to<br />

be with the group,” Webb states.<br />

“We have resources that are second to none<br />

that members simply couldn’t tap into as<br />

a stand-alone business. These include an<br />

e-commerce, mobile ready web platform that<br />

has Google, YouTube and Pinterest built in.”<br />

GROUP TOTALS - AUSTRALIA<br />

TYPE NATIONWIDE SHOWCASE LEADING EDGE TOTAL<br />

MEMBERS 335 152 135 622<br />

STORES 393 212 195 800<br />

GROUP TOTALS - NEW ZEALAND<br />

TYPE NATIONWIDE SHOWCASE LEADING EDGE TOTAL<br />

MEMBERS 70 26 3 99<br />

STORES 75 23 23 121<br />

LEADING EDGE HAS ENTERED THE NEW ZEALAND MARKET FOR THE FIRST TIME<br />

GROUP TOTALS - INTERNATIONAL<br />

TYPE<br />

NATIONWIDE<br />

FIJI<br />

SHOWCASE<br />

VANUATU<br />

TOTAL<br />

MEMBERS 1 1 2<br />

STORES 4 1 5<br />

MEMBERS AND STORES OUTSIDE OF AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND<br />

TOTAL NUMBER<br />

926 723<br />

STORES MEMBERS<br />

For Pocklington, the most important thing<br />

jewellers can do is focus on building a unique<br />

brand to set themselves apart.<br />

“Custom design continues to increase<br />

and we are launching a major marketing<br />

initiative early in <strong>2018</strong> to assist members to<br />

substantially grow this part of their business,”<br />

he says.<br />

“Merchandise of a fashion nature is now<br />

a much larger proportion of the average<br />

retailer’s stock holding than ever before. It<br />

is essential that retailers review their brand<br />

performance every six months using the tools<br />

we have provided.”<br />

This detail isn’t lost on Webb who says,<br />

“We believe whilst there is a reduction in<br />

the number of retail jewellers out there, it’s<br />

also pushing up the quality of standards<br />

demanded by consumers. It’s simply not good<br />

enough to house various brands in an old site,<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 25


BUYING GROUPS<br />

NATIONWIDE - AUSTRALIA<br />

COMPARISON NSW VIC QLD WA SA TAS ACT NT TOTAL<br />

<strong>2018</strong> - Members 108 77 67 30 33 10 8 2 335<br />

2016 - Members 121 88 85 35 38 11 11 2 391<br />

Variance -13 -11 -18 -5 -5 -1 -3 0 -56<br />

<strong>2018</strong> - Stores 127 94 82 32 34 10 12 2 393<br />

2016 - Stores 137 92 95 36 38 11 16 2 427<br />

Variance -10 2 -13 -4 -4 -1 -4 0 -34<br />

* EXCLUDES 70 MEMBERS AND 75 STORES IN NEW ZEALAND AND 1 MEMBER AND 4 STORES IN FIJI<br />

pop in a casual extra and hope it all goes well<br />

– those days are gone.”<br />

REASONS TO BE A GROUPIE<br />

While getting that ‘group discount’ is still a big<br />

drawcard for joining a buying group, it’s only<br />

a tiny part of why joining one can prove to be<br />

beneficial – or even necessary these days.<br />

Dyer believes a sense of community is one of<br />

the greatest benefits retailers get from being<br />

part of a group. When jewellers get together,<br />

they can share their problems and devise<br />

solutions together.<br />

“I think one of the most significant things in a<br />

challenging time like this is communication<br />

with your peers – not mix of product,<br />

extended credits or anything else,” Dyer says.<br />

One of the biggest problems he has observed<br />

for retail jewellers is “finding the motivation to<br />

do something new”.<br />

In the face of the constantly changing market,<br />

Dyer believes retailers “don’t see an answer;<br />

they just see more problems.”<br />

That’s where unity and discussion become so<br />

valuable, he explains.<br />

“At [buying-group] meetings there’s a chance<br />

to communicate; where retailers can tell each<br />

other, ‘You’re not the only one with these<br />

SHOWCASE - AUSTRALIA<br />

problems. Here are some ways you might<br />

choose to tackle these things,’” Dyer says.<br />

Zarb agrees: “Our members are looking for<br />

help on how to compete in this challenging<br />

environment, specifically on getting shoppers<br />

through the door and spending more money<br />

once they are there. They have certainly<br />

moved away from the ‘group-purchasing’<br />

mindset; it has shifted from a ‘discount’<br />

mentality to a ‘value’ mentality.”<br />

To Zarb and Webb, the real value of<br />

membership lies in the support that buying<br />

groups offer to retailers.<br />

“It can be very daunting trying to run a<br />

successful jewellery retail business without<br />

the data analysis and market trend advice<br />

that buying groups offer,” Zarb continues.<br />

“We provide the ‘road maps’ for members to<br />

use at their discretion to maximise efficiencies<br />

in stock purchasing and reducing unplanned<br />

or wasted purchases.”<br />

Webb agrees: “The retailers require more<br />

than a discount or a bit of credit, which we all<br />

know is built in somewhere.”<br />

According to Pocklington, Nationwide has<br />

seen strong results arise from helping their<br />

members with business strategies.<br />

“Our exclusive Industry Best Practice<br />

COMPARISON NSW VIC QLD WA SA TAS ACT NT TOTAL<br />

<strong>2018</strong> - Members 61 30 40 7 5 8 0 1 152<br />

2016 - Members 60 30 40 7 5 8 0 1 151<br />

Variance 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1<br />

<strong>2018</strong> - Stores 76 47 63 10 5 10 0 1 212<br />

2016 - Stores 81 40 68 12 6 9 0 1 217<br />

Variance -5 7 -5 -2 -1 1 0 -5<br />

* EXCLUDES 26 MEMBERS AND 23 STORES IN NEW ZEALAND AND 1 MEMBER AND 1 STORE IN VANUATU<br />

“THERE’S STILL<br />

A SIGNIFICANT<br />

AMOUNT OF FACE-<br />

TO-FACE CONTACT<br />

AND THE ABILITY<br />

TO SELL BASED<br />

ON THE INTRINSIC<br />

VALUE OF THE<br />

PRODUCT”<br />

MICHAEL DYER<br />

Programme is already resulting in a substantial<br />

improvement to sales and profits for many<br />

members,” Pocklington explains.<br />

“More and more retailers are realising the<br />

importance of the business support services<br />

that we provide.”<br />

Coming back to that group discount,<br />

Pocklington adds that it’s not just the savings<br />

but also the origin of a product that is<br />

important for members.<br />

Nationwide therefore selects suppliers based<br />

on what is best for their members.<br />

“We review suppliers twice a year and are<br />

always on the lookout for new product<br />

opportunities that will enhance our members’<br />

businesses,” Pocklington says.<br />

Webb also stresses the importance of<br />

member needs in relation to suppliers.: “We<br />

are owned by the members and work for<br />

members so we’re in the business of growing<br />

the retailers’ businesses,” he says.<br />

“To do that successfully these days, it’s so<br />

much more than just a purchasing discount.<br />

We introduce new suppliers with open arms<br />

and work diligently on their success but,<br />

ultimately, the retailers decide what’s right for<br />

them and their clients,” Webb continues.<br />

“In fact, many of our core jewellery suppliers<br />

are trading up this year so that’s a positive sign<br />

for suppliers, members and us.”<br />

THE WAY FORWARD<br />

The sentiment across the three buying<br />

groups is that the future still holds a place for<br />

traditional retailers.<br />

For all the options and bargains the internet<br />

can offer, it will never be able to compete<br />

with the experience of talking to an expert<br />

in person.<br />

Lamb confirms that the even Gen Z and<br />

Millennial consumers want exactly that.<br />

“Research suggests that even the youngest<br />

shoppers – those who were almost born with<br />

a smart phone in their hands – still love and<br />

appreciate the in-store experience,” she says.<br />

“This is merely a continuation of the rising<br />

ideals of participation, social conscience,<br />

connection, individualised service and<br />

consumer experience.”<br />

Pocklington says Nationwide intends to keep<br />

26 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong>


LEADING EDGE - AUSTRALIA<br />

COMPARISON NSW VIC QLD WA SA TAS ACT NT TOTAL<br />

<strong>2018</strong> - Members 54 23 26 9 17 3 1 2 135<br />

2016 - Members 51 25 27 8 17 4 1 3 136<br />

Variance 3 -2 -1 1 0 -1 0 -1 -1<br />

<strong>2018</strong> - Stores 70 52 29 10 19 3 2 10 195<br />

2016 - Stores 64 48 29 8 19 4 2 12 186<br />

Variance 6 4 0 2 0 -1 0 -2 9<br />

* EXCLUDES 3 MEMBERS AND 23 STORES IN NEW ZEALAND<br />

abreast of the demands of the fashion world.<br />

“We have been running workshops at the<br />

International <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair for the last two<br />

years on how to evaluate brand performance.<br />

More retailers are realising the importance<br />

of the business support services that we<br />

provide,” he adds.<br />

Webb reiterates that jewellers should take<br />

pride in what they know and aim to be<br />

number one in their chosen areas.<br />

“Many of our Showcase members are fine<br />

jewellers, designers, watchmakers and<br />

experienced diamond retailers – we’re very<br />

proud of them. The path most of them have<br />

taken is to really embrace this area of the<br />

business,” he says.<br />

“We all understand the challenges and<br />

difficulties, many of us are living them daily;<br />

however, it’s making sure we address and<br />

focus on the ones we can influence, not the<br />

ones we cannot,” Webb concludes.<br />

“It’s a positive to see that fine jewellery sales<br />

“TECHNOLOGY<br />

HAS BECOME A<br />

FUNDAMENTAL<br />

COMPONENT<br />

OF RETAILERS’<br />

OVERALL<br />

STRATEGIES”<br />

DOMINIQUE<br />

LAMB<br />

are now well up, with steady growth coming<br />

across each month.”<br />

Zarb urges retailers to focus on custom<br />

collections. “Many of the chain stores are<br />

reducing their custom-make offerings and<br />

this leaves the door open for our retailers to<br />

capture this market,” he says. “We will continue<br />

to offer marketing support to our members to<br />

promote design and manufacture.”<br />

The battle between online and traditional<br />

retailing is set to continue but there is no<br />

shortage of resources to help bricks-andmortar<br />

retailers in their fight. Buying groups<br />

offer a way for jewellers to come together and<br />

share their knowledge and expertise while<br />

also maximising their purchasing power.<br />

As they say, there’s always strength in<br />

numbers. i<br />

* Each buying group operates a completely<br />

different business model. What are the benefits<br />

and differences of the three groups and the cost<br />

of membership? To find out, turn to page 28.


BUYING GROUPS REPORT<br />

ADVERTISEMENT<br />

Joshua Zarb<br />

General Manager<br />

LEADING<br />

EDGE GROUP<br />

JEWELLERS<br />

ESTABLISHED: 1986<br />

MEMBERS: AUS: 135 NZ: 3<br />

STORES: AUS: 195 NZ: 23<br />

BOARD MEMBERS: 5<br />

MISSION: The Leading Edge Group<br />

aspires to be the champion of<br />

independent businesses throughout<br />

Australia. Our mission is to help<br />

our members grow in a highly<br />

challenging retail environment.<br />

We do this by enabling profitable<br />

relationships between members<br />

and suppliers, and providing<br />

highly valuable retail coaching and<br />

marketing services.<br />

What are the prerequisites for joining?<br />

Our application process consists of standard<br />

trade checks and proof of assets. We look to<br />

partner with retailers who are dedicated to<br />

building a successful fine jewellery business<br />

and eager to be part of a like-minded<br />

community. Honesty and ethical trading are<br />

fundamental requirements.<br />

What are the benefits of joining?<br />

As part of Australia’s largest buying group,<br />

with 950 independent retailers across<br />

11 industries, our members are part of a<br />

community of retail specialists. Membership<br />

benefits include:<br />

• Supplier discounts - Australia’s most cost<br />

effective supplier agreements<br />

• Central billing / credit – exclusive, simple<br />

online invoicing and central billing facilities<br />

• Marketing programs – opt-in online and<br />

offline programs focused on delivering<br />

tangible sales results<br />

• Access to our market-leading e-commerce<br />

website platform, Everybuy<br />

• Non-trade benefits – saving up to thousands<br />

annually on insurance, freight, EFTPOS<br />

merchant rates and more<br />

• Retail coaching – access to our jewellery<br />

retail coaches for stock ranging,<br />

merchandising, financial planning,<br />

management & staff training and<br />

store design<br />

• Conferences & events – designed to inspire,<br />

motivate, educate and build communities<br />

What unique benefits are offered?<br />

Our advantage lies in the practical application<br />

of our extensive retail and marketing<br />

knowledge. We enable our members to grow<br />

in a challenging environment, by providing<br />

coaching and services that ensures stores are<br />

designed and merchandised for optimum<br />

return; an online presence that increases<br />

both online and in-store sales; and marketing<br />

programs that provide tangible sales results.<br />

What have been Leading Edge’s major<br />

achievements over the past two years?<br />

We have been particularly fortunate to have<br />

two record years of growth in new members.<br />

We have continued to invest heavily in digital<br />

marketing, and are proud to offer all members<br />

what we believe is the most comprehensive<br />

traditional and digital marketing support<br />

package in the industry.<br />

Has your traditional marketing changed in<br />

the past two years?<br />

Traditional marketing has declined in the<br />

past two years because jewellery consumer<br />

behaviour has changed. There is still a role for<br />

traditional programs, however they must<br />

now be part of an omni-channel. Our<br />

members need to have their brands seen<br />

throughout the consumer’s path to purchase,<br />

and that means we must enter new<br />

communications channels.<br />

How have you improved your B2C online<br />

and social media marketing strategy?<br />

Our e-commerce platform is constantly<br />

being optimised for both user experience<br />

and SEO. The marketing services we provide<br />

will be focused on developing and executing<br />

strategies for each member’s unique needs.<br />

We will combine the best platforms with<br />

targeted and effective marketing strategies<br />

and services to grow our members businesses<br />

in this highly challenging environment.<br />

What B2B and internal digital technology<br />

have you recently implemented?<br />

Our B2B ordering portal is critical for enabling<br />

effective management of our member’s<br />

WE ENABLE OUR<br />

MEMBERS TO GROW<br />

IN A CHALLENGING<br />

ENVIRONMENT<br />

BY PROVIDING<br />

COACHING AND<br />

SERVICES THAT<br />

ENSURES STORES<br />

ARE DESIGNED AND<br />

MERCHANDISED FOR<br />

OPTIMUM RETURN<br />

stock. It acts as a one-stop shop between<br />

our supply partners and members, and<br />

integrates with our e-commerce website,<br />

removing the need for manual uploading of<br />

product data. We have also implemented a<br />

custom catalogue system.<br />

What other kind of promotional support<br />

do you offer members?<br />

Our members have access to both set<br />

marketing campaigns focused on the major<br />

occasions, as well as ad-hoc marketing<br />

and in-store sales services based on their<br />

individual needs. These are a complete<br />

package of catalogue, POS material, social<br />

media and website assets. Our ad-hoc<br />

services include managed digital strategies<br />

and campaigns, store-specific promotional<br />

offerings, interest-free payment campaigns,<br />

remake/remodeling campaigns, diamond<br />

specific marketing and an array of direct<br />

marketing offers that support the target<br />

demographic of member stores.<br />

How do you support local jewellery<br />

manufacturers?<br />

We focus on being ‘hands on’ with our supply<br />

partners by tailoring offers specific to our<br />

members. We use our conferences to work<br />

with industry professionals and share new<br />

opportunities. We also sponsor and promote<br />

many industry awards and events.<br />

What is the cost of membership?<br />

There are no joining fees, exit fees, or any<br />

lock-in contracts. We have an $89 per<br />

month membership fee (first 6 months of<br />

membership are free).<br />

How have you improved your training and<br />

education in the past 2 years?<br />

The prime focus of our buying group model<br />

is to provide hands-on training to members.<br />

In the past two years we have formalised our<br />

store management training package, and<br />

have continued to build on our exhaustive<br />

member benefits tool kit. In addition, we have<br />

partnered with Friedman Group to provide<br />

a permanent staff sales and management<br />

training package that is available online 24/7,<br />

free of charge.<br />

PHONE: 02 9497 4000<br />

www.leadingedgegroup.com.au<br />

28 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong>


E-COMMERCE<br />

Access a suite of<br />

cost effective online<br />

solutions to keep<br />

your store ahead of<br />

the game.<br />

Including a self<br />

administered Website,<br />

Direct Marketing /<br />

Loyalty Program,<br />

Social Media<br />

platform, eCommerce<br />

gateway & more.<br />

MARKETING<br />

Choose & pay<br />

for the marketing<br />

that you want to<br />

suit your business.<br />

Your choice of<br />

Catalogues, TV,<br />

Radio, Instore,<br />

Customer Loyalty,<br />

Direct Marketing,<br />

Social Media &<br />

more.<br />

TRAINING<br />

Free comprehensive<br />

industry<br />

specific staff at an<br />

individual store<br />

level which is also<br />

accessible<br />

24/7 via our exclusive<br />

member extranet.<br />

CONFERENCES<br />

Designed to inspire,<br />

motivate, educate &<br />

build relationships.<br />

The lessons learned<br />

from our expert team<br />

& fellow members<br />

are some of the<br />

greatest benefits you<br />

can receive.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

BRANDS<br />

MANAGEMENT<br />

ADVICE<br />

Access exclusive best<br />

selling inhouse brands<br />

and benefit from better<br />

margins. Including<br />

international branded<br />

diamonds, south sea<br />

pearls, Australian<br />

diamonds, popular<br />

silver brands, watches<br />

and a Diamond Design<br />

collection to assist<br />

you in your custom<br />

handmade business.<br />

Free business<br />

Mentoring, KPI<br />

Benchmarking<br />

& Free Business<br />

Analysis & Store<br />

Consultancy as well<br />

as extensive tailored<br />

management training<br />

programs, special HR /<br />

Policies & Procedures<br />

packages available to<br />

every member.<br />

FINANCIAL<br />

PLANNING<br />

Free access to<br />

Sales Budget<br />

setting templates<br />

that outlines<br />

associated start<br />

up costs, expected<br />

revenues, projected<br />

annual operating<br />

expenses, expected<br />

management KPIs<br />

and more.<br />

STOCK<br />

RANGING<br />

Access to our<br />

best selling stock<br />

analysis reports plus<br />

defined category<br />

management,<br />

purchase &<br />

replenishment<br />

planning information.<br />

BRILLIANT TOGETHER<br />

NETWORK / CONNECT / FAMILY / SHARE / SUPPORT<br />

INSPIRE / LEARN / MARKETING / SUCCEED / GROW<br />

Retain your name and your independence.<br />

Leading Edge Group is Australia’s largest & most cost effective buying group.<br />

We Specialise in HANDS ON Retail Assistance.<br />

Ask us about our FREE Staff Training Programs tailored<br />

specifically for your store!<br />

www.legj.com.au<br />

@LeadingEdge<strong>Jeweller</strong>sHO<br />

No cost to join & everything to gain.<br />

/LeadingEdge<strong>Jeweller</strong>sHO<br />

Enjoy the Best Prices in the Industry.<br />

Is your current Buying Group offering you the<br />

ONE-ON-ONE assistance you deserve?<br />

You’re not alone.<br />

Find out more. Come see us at the LEGJ lounge,<br />

International <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair, ICC Sydney.<br />

Talk to Josh Zarb, General Manager<br />

P: 1300 531 014<br />

E: zarbj@leadingedgegroup.com.au


BUYING GROUPS REPORT<br />

ADVERTISEMENT<br />

Colin Pocklington<br />

Managing Director<br />

NATIONWIDE<br />

JEWELLERS<br />

ESTABLISHED: 1991<br />

MEMBERS: AUS: 335 NZ: 70 FIJI: 1<br />

STORES: AUS: 393 NZ: 75 FIJI: 4<br />

BOARD MEMBERS: 2<br />

MISSION:To assist independent<br />

jewellery stores increase their<br />

market share and profits.<br />

What are the prerequisites for joining?<br />

Members must operate a retail jewellery<br />

store and have satisfactory credit references.<br />

Most new stores are recommended to us by<br />

suppliers or existing Nationwide members.<br />

What are the benefits of joining?<br />

• We provide a written guarantee that<br />

retailers will be more profitable if they join<br />

Nationwide. It doesn’t matter whether they<br />

have always been independent or were in<br />

another group<br />

• Free access to our Industry Best Practice<br />

Programme, which assists members to fine<br />

tune their business, and increase profits<br />

and cash flow<br />

• Exclusive branded merchandise collections<br />

• Overseas travel and free conferences<br />

• Education and training courses<br />

• An extensive range of professional<br />

marketing material and promotions<br />

• Nothing is compulsory – retailers maintain<br />

their complete independence<br />

What unique benefits are offered?<br />

• We are the only group that does not charge<br />

fees or levies<br />

• We offer up to $150,000 per year interest<br />

free finance to each retailer to spend at<br />

trade fairs and Nationwide events<br />

• Our Antwerp marketing program has<br />

increased diamond sales by more than<br />

$100,000 per year for many members<br />

• Free annual conference for all retailers<br />

earning reward status<br />

• We recognise the importance of marketing<br />

to your strength – your independence<br />

– which is why all of our services are<br />

designed to assist jewellers to not only<br />

maintain their independence, but to<br />

maximise the benefits of being an<br />

independent jeweller. Members select only<br />

what works for them<br />

What have been Nationwide’s major<br />

achievements in the past two years?<br />

• The restructure of our Industry Best Practice<br />

Programme, allowing us to assist a greater<br />

number of members to substantially<br />

improve their business performance<br />

• Our presentations to members on how the<br />

industry is dramatically changing, and the<br />

solutions to ensure that they prosper in this<br />

‘new normal’ business environment<br />

• The launch of our online Business College,<br />

which features training courses and<br />

product knowledge to name just a few.<br />

Has your traditional marketing changed<br />

in the past two years?<br />

We still produce Christmas catalogues as<br />

well as POS material for other promotions.<br />

Most of our promotions are also available<br />

in a digital format. Our graphic artists create<br />

various individual marketing material for<br />

members to use in print and/or social media<br />

– and it is a free service.<br />

How have you improved your B2C online<br />

and social media marketing strategy?<br />

We updated our member websites and<br />

at the same time made them mobile<br />

friendly. Any member can have their own<br />

e-commerce website for only $2,900,<br />

charged over 12 months. All online<br />

purchases transactions are completed at<br />

Nationwide’s head office. The retail margin<br />

is credited to the relevant member with no<br />

work required by store staff.<br />

What B2B and internal digital technology<br />

have you recently implemented?<br />

A new member-only website was launched<br />

in September 2017. It gives members 24/7<br />

access to their account, to our preferred<br />

supplier and product information, and a wide<br />

range of resource material. The free resources<br />

cover areas such as marketing, business<br />

guides, award pay rates, employment<br />

agreements, upcoming events and more.<br />

What other kind of promotional support<br />

do you offer members?<br />

Our in-house marketing team develops<br />

WE PROVIDE<br />

A WRITTEN<br />

GUARANTEE THAT<br />

RETAILERS WILL BE<br />

MORE PROFITABLE<br />

IF THEY JOIN<br />

NATIONWIDE<br />

exclusive marketing tools linked to key<br />

promotional periods. Individualised<br />

marketing calendars can be created on<br />

request for stores and POS material is<br />

continually produced to highlight current<br />

best-selling product.<br />

Members also have access to an online<br />

marketing and promotional library, from<br />

which they can select promotions and ideas.<br />

Our graphic design service is free of charge<br />

and staff constantly work to fine-tune<br />

concepts and create exclusive promotions<br />

for individual stores to use.<br />

How do you support local designers/<br />

manufacturers?<br />

Over the past eight years we have given<br />

apprentices more than $120,000 in tool<br />

vouchers. We conduct an annual skill-based<br />

contest for apprentices, with the winner<br />

receiving our Apprentice of the Year award.<br />

At the International <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair and at<br />

our conference, we conduct CAD training<br />

workshops. We are in the process of<br />

launching a major initiative to help members<br />

promote their design and manufacturing<br />

services to a wider audience.<br />

What is the cost of membership?<br />

Absolutely nothing – and there are no<br />

joining fees, monthly agency fees, marketing<br />

levies or security deposits.<br />

How have you improved your training<br />

and education in the past two years?<br />

At the International <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair in 2017,<br />

we had Nationwide members share their<br />

skills and help train fellow members in<br />

social media marketing, and in using<br />

Countersketch International software.<br />

Our hands-on diamond workshops now<br />

include sessions on lab-grown diamonds<br />

and treatments. These sessions have a direct<br />

impact on sales, and were so popular that we<br />

are running further sessions at the<br />

<strong>2018</strong> conference.<br />

PHONE: 02 9418 0000<br />

www.nationwidejewellers.com.au<br />

30 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong>


STAY INDEPENDENT...and PROSPER<br />

Worried about the effect that the changes in retail are having<br />

on your business?<br />

We have the answers.<br />

Our presentation “Welcome to The New Normal” (published in <strong>Jeweller</strong><br />

magazine in December 2017) outlines the changes that are occurring in our<br />

industry, and importantly, why.<br />

In February 2017, we are releasing the “New Normal Retail Response<br />

Plan”, which sets out over 20 specific strategies required to re-engineer<br />

retail jewellery businesses, so that they not only survive, but prosper in<br />

<strong>2018</strong> and beyond.<br />

Benefit from our exclusive New Normal Retail Response Plan, and our<br />

Industry Best Practice Programme.<br />

NO joining fee<br />

NO agency fee<br />

NO security deposits<br />

Request a free, no obligation info kit!<br />

E: info@jgbs.com<br />

P: 02 9418 0000<br />

More Independent <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Choose Nationwide


BUYING GROUPS REPORT<br />

ADVERTISEMENT<br />

SHOWCASE<br />

JEWELLERS<br />

Carson Webb<br />

General Manager<br />

ESTABLISHED: 1981<br />

MEMBERS: AUS: 152 NZ: 26<br />

VANUATU: 1<br />

STORES: AUS: 212 NZ: 23<br />

VANUATU: 1<br />

BOARD MEMBERS: 5<br />

MISSION: JIMACO (Showcase<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>s) provides members with<br />

programs, systems, resources, tools<br />

and professional services to enable<br />

them to maximise their individual<br />

business objectives.<br />

What are the prerequisites for joining?<br />

Integrity is one of the greatest qualities<br />

we look for in a member. Operating a fine<br />

jewellery store with high standards in<br />

presentation and service is preferred.<br />

What are the benefits of joining?<br />

• No management fees<br />

• Retain your own name/brand<br />

• Maximum supplier discount passed on<br />

directly to the retailer<br />

• Unbeatable insurance and EFTPOS rates<br />

• A world leading fully customisable, mobile<br />

ready, e-commerce platform (including<br />

B2B) for retailers as well as integration of the<br />

Retail Edge POS system<br />

• In-house product photography, videos<br />

and free image libraries for all digital<br />

requirements<br />

• Free ARA membership (and the equivalent<br />

HR resource for our NZ members)<br />

• Access to exclusive diamond brands,<br />

including exclusive rights to certified<br />

Argyle white diamonds and the world<br />

leading lab-grown diamond facility for<br />

those members interested<br />

• World-class e-learning, complete with<br />

videos, certified courses and templates on<br />

everything HR or WHS related<br />

• <strong>Jeweller</strong>y apps, incorporating social media<br />

integration and a focus on driving sales<br />

• Professional and customisable POS<br />

marketing material to suit the retailer<br />

• Fully franked dividends and returns on<br />

trading loans for our members<br />

• Free internal retailing, diamond and digital<br />

experts to assist our retailers in every step of<br />

their retail journey<br />

What unique benefits are offered?<br />

JIMACO is a member-owned and operated<br />

buying group that operates exclusively for<br />

independent jewellery retailers. All profits go<br />

back to our members.<br />

What have been Showcase’s major<br />

achievements over the past two years?<br />

• First group to embrace and lock in the<br />

Australian Diamond program with an<br />

exclusive partnership with Rio-Tinto<br />

• Members now receive fully-franked<br />

dividends<br />

• Members also continue to receive a return<br />

on their trading loan<br />

• B2B and member website rollout built in<br />

the same platform as Google and YouTube<br />

but fully customisable to suit many different<br />

stores and styles<br />

• Continued success of the diamond brand<br />

Passion8 (cinema advertising, digital<br />

following)<br />

• Exclusive rights to lab grown diamonds<br />

through the ALTR brand for those interested<br />

• Launching a catalogue facility that is fully<br />

customisable where individuals can upload<br />

their stock and create their own pages,<br />

making it specifically tailored to them.<br />

Has your traditional marketing changed in<br />

the past two years?<br />

Traditional media still plays an important role<br />

– not as high volume, but more quality. We<br />

also present every campaign in a full digital<br />

package, making it easier for our members<br />

to use everything across most channels.<br />

Everything we do is also mobile device<br />

friendly.<br />

How have you improved your B2C online<br />

and social media marketing strategy?<br />

The organic growth and engagement of<br />

our own social media sites is testament to<br />

the focus in this area. Members can now<br />

fully integrate their social media platforms<br />

with their websites, and their Retail Edge<br />

Consultants POS system. We now also assist<br />

members with Google myBusiness and other<br />

necessities.<br />

OUR MARKETING<br />

TEAM AND<br />

CREATIVE AGENCY<br />

PARTNERS ARE<br />

COMMITTED<br />

TO TAILORING<br />

MARKETING<br />

SOLUTIONS FOR<br />

MEMBERS<br />

What B2B and internal digital technology<br />

have you recently implemented?<br />

We are already well equipped in global<br />

e-commerce and B2B. Our members can<br />

create their own m-commerce (commercial<br />

mobile phone transactions), and a geofenced<br />

fully customisable app for their<br />

business. Basically this works with push<br />

technology: when our members’ customers<br />

go near a competitor or shopping centre, it<br />

will send them a push notification offering<br />

a free product or service to temp them to<br />

the store. We can also make Facebook and<br />

Instagram videos, plus image downloads are<br />

free for members.<br />

What other kind of promotional support<br />

do you offer members?<br />

Our marketing team and creative agency<br />

partners are committed to tailoring marketing<br />

solutions for members. This is in addition<br />

to our core-marketing program catering to<br />

major selling periods. Resources available<br />

include social media, EDMs, billboards,<br />

cinema advertising, television commercials,<br />

catalogues, radio and newspaper.<br />

How do you support local designers/<br />

manufacturers?<br />

We’re really proud of the JAA Designer<br />

Awards we put on last year. We will also be<br />

looking at another strategy shortly to further<br />

support our talented jewellers and designers.<br />

What is the cost of membership?<br />

There’s no start-up membership fee. At<br />

Showcase you become far more than ‘just<br />

a member’. You become a shareholder who<br />

shares all the benefits.<br />

How have you improved your training and<br />

education in the past two years?<br />

We’ve created online courses in collaboration<br />

with external certified training bodies.<br />

We have a massive, ever-growing online<br />

retail staff induction facility. The tool is<br />

customisable and guides new employees<br />

through policies and procedures, product<br />

and sales courses with video instruction and<br />

questionnaires. There’s also a massive HR<br />

database.<br />

PHONE: 02 8566 1800<br />

www.showcasejewellers.com.au<br />

32 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong>


WE’RE IN THE<br />

BUSINESS OF<br />

GROWING YOUR<br />

BUSINESS.<br />

What you receive<br />

• Easily accessed advice and professional services<br />

• World class training systems + free ARA membership<br />

• Marketing and digital resource guidance<br />

• Fully customisable apps, websites, catalogues<br />

• Access to exclusive Showcase brands<br />

• Member owned jewellery focused business<br />

• Maximum supplier discounts to you the retailer<br />

• No ongoing monthly management fees<br />

What it delivers<br />

• Increased productivity<br />

• Exclusive incentives back to members<br />

• The ability to build your brand<br />

• Your identity presented professionally<br />

• Increased margins<br />

• Profits back to members<br />

• Maximised buying power<br />

• Better bottom-line results<br />

What our members have to say<br />

“Head Office provides me with everything from catalogues to marketing, technology<br />

support and so much more. They’re invaluable to my business.”<br />

Rosie Ficarra Kennedy’s Showcase <strong>Jeweller</strong>s, Swan Hill<br />

“I’ve previously been with another buying group, so I appreciate what I now receive as real, tangible<br />

benefits to my business for its future and success.”<br />

Neil Watson Watsons’ <strong>Jeweller</strong>s, Launceston<br />

“The simplicity and professionalism of being able to utilise all of Showcase’s digital and training tools perfectly<br />

suits our business and drives the results we need as a self branded multi-store operation.”<br />

Ben Duff Duffs <strong>Jeweller</strong>s, Geelong<br />

Interested? Contact us today<br />

We’re ready when you are. So if you think it’s time to get serious about where you’re going, email us today.<br />

Our team will be happy to show you how we can grow your business together.<br />

Email: enquiries@showcasejewellers.com.au<br />

www.showcasejewellers.com.au


MOTHER’S DAY<br />

boost<br />

Getting a<br />

this Mother’s Day<br />

CONSIDERED ONE OF THE JEWELLERY INDUSTRY’S MOST SIGNIFICANT<br />

ANNUAL SALES EVENTS, THERE’S PLENTY RETAILERS CAN DO TO<br />

ENSURE THEY’RE READY FOR MOTHER’S DAY. TALIA PAZ REPORTS.<br />

other’s Day – the one day of the year men, women, teens and young<br />

people alike collectively celebrate mothers by showering them with<br />

love, appreciation – and jewellery.<br />

Not surprisingly, this day is considered the industry’s second largest<br />

trading period after Christmas, and with good reason – according to the National<br />

Retail Association (NRA) consumers spent approximately $1.5 billion last year, with<br />

jewellery one of the top areas for spending.<br />

“If there’s one occasion we can all agree to celebrate at the moment, it would have<br />

to be Mother’s Day,” NRA CEO Dominique Lamb says.<br />

“<strong>Jeweller</strong>y has been, and always will be, a top choice for showing our gratitude for<br />

what these wonderful women give to all of us.”<br />

With that in mind, we sought feedback from suppliers, retailers and marketing<br />

experts on how retailers can maximise sales in the lead up to the special<br />

day on 13 May.<br />

TAKE CARE, PREPARE<br />

There is a question as to when retailers should begin their Mother’s Day<br />

marketing efforts, with the general consensus being that it should be one to three<br />

weeks beforehand.<br />

Sigrid de Kaste, a former jeweller and marketing consultant and director of<br />

Stickybeak Marketing, recommends taking a strategic approach.<br />

“I would suggest to start after the Easter Monday week is over. Why? Many are on<br />

holidays over Easter and the week after,” de Kaste explains.<br />

“As a general rule, [its best to start] about three weeks before the date – if you are<br />

too early, the message gets lost in the noise of other offers.”<br />

Cheryle Roberts, director of supplier Stones & Silver, agrees with those sentiments,<br />

adding that her business will be conducting a ‘Get ready for Mother’s Day<br />

campaign’ from mid April that will include some Mother’s Day classic items, along<br />

with “beautiful new and modern designs.”<br />

Fabuleux Vous director Helen Thompson-Carter offers her own take on the matter:<br />

“I think 10 to 15 days prior is plenty – any longer and it doesn’t work. However,<br />

running something special in store the week before does work.”<br />

SPREADING THE LOVE<br />

Although most demographics will be shopping for Mother’s Day gifts, anecdotal<br />

evidence suggests that retailers should place greater focus on male shoppers<br />

because of their propensity to purchase higher value items.<br />

For example, a study conducted in the UK by market research company Mintel<br />

found that, while women are still more likely to buy a Mother’s Day present than<br />

men, when men do spend, they spend more. It’s an intriguing thought, and one<br />

that not all retailers would necessarily have thought – or agree with.<br />

“I think it is for everyone to enjoy,” Thompson-Carter says when asked her opinion.<br />

34 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong>


“My father always buys a little something for<br />

our mother to say thank you for being the<br />

mother of his children. My children give a<br />

little something to their godmothers, to their<br />

grandmothers and to me, their mother.<br />

“It’s treated as a ‘family’ celebration – after all,<br />

every family starts with a parent, and most<br />

with a mother,” she adds.<br />

Angie Ash, executive vice president of<br />

Fruchtman, a US-based jewellery marketing<br />

business, agrees that male consumers are the<br />

demographic spending the most. She<br />

also believes retailers’ core demographic<br />

should not be so easily dismissed. “We<br />

see jewellery spends coming from mums<br />

purchasing for their daughters or their own<br />

mums,” Ash reiterates.<br />

Najo managing director Jo Tory agrees<br />

with these sentiments. “As Mother’s Day is<br />

a big day for promotions, we see a boost in<br />

our core female audience, as it is a treat for<br />

themselves or for mum,” Tory says. “In saying<br />

that, there is also a noticeable increase with<br />

our male clients.”<br />

This is also the case for Simon Garber, director<br />

of local distributor Heart & Grace, whose<br />

portfolio encompasses Cluse watches.<br />

“Although Millennial women aged 20 to<br />

40 are leading the charge, on Mother’s Day<br />

it’s best to target men by showcasing your<br />

Mother’s Day specials in businesses with male<br />

patrons,” Garber says.<br />

Ash says that Millennials – also known as Gen<br />

Y – are another demographic retailers should<br />

pay attention to for Mother’s Day.<br />

“You have to keep an eye out for styles that<br />

are popular with Gen Y - look at what they are<br />

wearing and how they’re<br />

wearing it,” Ash states.<br />

“Whereas an older target<br />

demo may like birthstone<br />

rings and jewellery, Gen<br />

Y prefers jewellery that is<br />

more delicate or includes<br />

sayings and engravings,<br />

especially with names and in<br />

styles that can be worn every day.​<br />

“Pricepoint is also very important<br />

because this generation tends to<br />

be more conscious about the cost. If there is a<br />

philanthropic angle to the purchase, it’s even<br />

better. Finally, Gen Y wants to stand out in the<br />

crowd. They’re always looking for something<br />

unique before it becomes popular,” she adds.<br />

De Kaste elaborates further: “The 20 to 30<br />

something is the biggest age group spending<br />

on jewellery for Mother’s Day – they buy both<br />

for mum and mum-in-law and are very keen<br />

to give that gift of jewellery.”<br />

PROMOTING THE DAY<br />

As well as targeting purchases to the right<br />

demographic appropriately, retailers should<br />

also be ensuring their promotional efforts are<br />

up to speed in preparation for the day.<br />

“Because Mother’s Day crosses all ethnic,<br />

religious and cultural backgrounds, it’s a<br />

valuable opportunity for retailers,” a 2017<br />

article by Entrepeneur states.<br />

“Craft campaigns that embrace imperfections<br />

– a top hashtag among Millennials is<br />

#mumfail because they are honest about<br />

how hard it is to be a mum,” it adds.<br />

As well as incorporating hashtags on<br />

Facebook and Instagram pages that<br />

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HEART & GRACE<br />

consumers can have fun with,<br />

de Kaste believes there are<br />

many ways retailers can<br />

be innovative.<br />

“With so many<br />

competing gifts<br />

of various types<br />

to get for Mother’s<br />

Day, there are two<br />

important strategies for<br />

jewellers,” de Kaste says. “First,<br />

segment the market – offer<br />

specific items for specific<br />

age groups, like the 30<br />

somethings, the 40 to 50 and<br />

the over 60s.<br />

“Secondly, each segment will want different<br />

types of jewellery – a simple survey asking<br />

existing customers or checking a database as<br />

to what they buy will help here – then create<br />

a specific message to each segment.<br />

“With so much noise in the market, it’s about<br />

immediately capturing the right audience<br />

and a specifically designed message will do<br />

that,” she adds.<br />

Ash also believes there is value in partnering<br />

with other local businesses to promote<br />

offerings – florists or a day spa, anyone?<br />

“<strong>Jeweller</strong>s should consider offering a package<br />

that includes a gift card to an upscale salon<br />

as it’s like giving Mum two gifts in one,”<br />

Ash explains, adding, “Get your customers<br />

involved in your decision making.”<br />

If that’s not possible, bring the party to<br />

the retailer, Thompson-Carter declares.<br />

“Imagine going into a retail store that had<br />

complimentary morning tea or good coffee<br />

or a glass of bubbles for all mothers…and by<br />

taking the time to visit, they went into a draw<br />

to win,” she muses.<br />

“We need to get more engaged and creative<br />

for these special occasions. Make a big deal<br />

out of it – it is another opportunity to engage<br />

with customers, right from the supply chain<br />

to the consumer.”<br />

Taking advantage of the gift giving nature of<br />

the day is another sure way to boost sales,<br />

Catherine Pevy-Trewartha, owner of My<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y Shop adds.<br />

“This year, we will be doing a give away for a<br />

pair of diamond stud earrings,” she says. “Our<br />

competition will run on Facebook<br />

and Instagram as these are proving to be<br />

very popular.”<br />

Judy Cameron of Cameron’s Fine <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />

also echoed similar sentiments. “This<br />

Mother’s Day we will be running a Facebook<br />

competition; something like ‘tell us<br />

something special about your Mum’ and the<br />

winner will get a prize,” she explains.<br />

ADDING EXTRAS<br />

Many retailers may have already come to the<br />

same conclusion: add-ons with purchases are<br />

a win for all.<br />

According to Garber – who will be releasing<br />

a two-tone combination watch from its La<br />

Triomphe range for the day – customers<br />

should be offered extras such as special<br />

Mother’s Day gift bags, free gift wrapping,<br />

greeting cards or any other “fun extras<br />

that could be an additional incentive for<br />

purchasing your products.”<br />

“These extras will go a long way towards<br />

creating a positive experience with your<br />

customers,” he adds.<br />

Retailers might also want to consider a GWP<br />

(gifts with purchase) campaign, as is the case<br />

with Najo, which is offering silver and rose<br />

gold huggie earrings come this Mother’s Day.<br />

“This gift with purchase – an artfully tapered<br />

tear shape design creating a modern,<br />

sculptural finish – is to boost sales but<br />

also to reward customers, as it adds to a one<br />

off purchase either for oneself or for mum,”<br />

Tory adds.<br />

Thompson-Carter offers a similar strategy for<br />

the Fabuleux Vous range: “We provide posters,<br />

window displays, graphics for websites<br />

and social media posts – we aim to make<br />

everything as easy as possible for the retailer<br />

so all they have to concentrate on is making<br />

the sale,” she adds.<br />

At the end of the day, consumers want<br />

help finding the perfect Mother’s Day<br />

gift, so retailers would be well advised to<br />

have everything in place, with plenty of<br />

time to spare. With a well thought out plan<br />

of attack, a bit of savvy marketing and some<br />

genuine enthusiasm, this Mother’s Day will<br />

undoubtedly be the most successful yet. i


GEMS<br />

COLOUR INVESTIGATION: DIAMOND<br />

IMAGE COURTESY GREG C GRACE<br />

to orange gems, the nitrogen atoms are<br />

singularly substituted for carbon atoms,<br />

resulting in the absorption of blue and violet<br />

wavelengths of light and producing yellow<br />

through oranges hues.<br />

Blue to violet diamonds are the result of<br />

boron impurities; the more boron the deeper<br />

the saturation. Perhaps the most famous<br />

coloured diamond is the priceless, blue Hope<br />

diamond, which has a history of ownership<br />

dating back almost 400 years. Some blue<br />

stones may contain hydrogen as an impurity,<br />

as occurs in Australia’s Argyle mine.<br />

FIGURE 1. AUSTRALIAN ARGYLE PINK DIAMOND<br />

The diamond industry is built on a<br />

foundation of colourless gemstones<br />

but vivid-colour varieties are also<br />

highly valued and steadily increasing in<br />

popularity. STACEY LIM reports.<br />

It’s a gemstone famously prized for its lack of<br />

colour, so it might surprise people to know<br />

that many of the world’s most-coveted<br />

coloured gemstones are also diamonds.<br />

Formed up to 200km deep within the Earth’s<br />

mantle under extremely high pressures and<br />

temperatures, diamonds are carried to the<br />

surface in viscous, volcanic magma. Uniquely<br />

composed of a single element, diamond is<br />

typically about 99.95 per cent carbon, with<br />

the remaining 0.05 per cent incorporating<br />

one or more trace elements, often nitrogen,<br />

that can influence body colour.<br />

Just one in 10,000 gem-quality diamonds<br />

is classified as ‘fancy-coloured’. The<br />

various colours are formed under unique<br />

FIGURE 2. BRILLIANT CUT FANCY VIVID YELOW DIAMOND<br />

conditions involving specific trace elements,<br />

radiation and/or plastic deformation of the<br />

crystal structure.<br />

White diamonds are rated from D to Z on the<br />

industry’s accepted colour-grading system,<br />

where D is totally colourless and Z is a pale<br />

yellow or light brown colour. The term<br />

‘fancy’ is used for coloured stones that have<br />

greater depth of colour and are graded on a<br />

different scale.<br />

Diamonds are found in many colours,<br />

including yellow, brown, green, blue, violet,<br />

pink, red, grey and black, and even very slight<br />

colour differences significantly impact stone<br />

prices. Fancy yellow and browns are more<br />

abundant than other hues, and other colours<br />

are hard to find even in weak saturations.<br />

Rarest is the red diamond, of which only a<br />

small handful have been found.<br />

Diamonds typically contain nitrogen as<br />

an impurity. In the case of fancy yellow<br />

DIAMONDS<br />

ARE FOUND IN<br />

MANY COLOURS,<br />

INCLUDING<br />

YELLOW, BROWN,<br />

GREEN, BLUE,<br />

VIOLET, PINK, RED,<br />

GREY AND BLACK,<br />

AND EVEN VERY<br />

SLIGHT COLOUR<br />

DIFFERENCES<br />

SIGNIFICANTLY<br />

IMPACT STONE<br />

PRICES<br />

For pink and purple diamonds, it is suspected<br />

that the colouration is due to defects in<br />

the atomic structure as a result of ‘plastic<br />

deformation’ during the crystal’s journey to<br />

the Earth’s surface in hot magma.<br />

Green diamonds result from an exposure to<br />

radioactive uranium, which emits powerful<br />

gamma rays that create a deficiency by<br />

knocking individual carbon atoms out of the<br />

crystal lattice. These ‘holes’ absorb more of the<br />

blue and red wavelengths, resulting in green<br />

coloured stones. The more radiation that<br />

impacts the diamond, the deeper the green.<br />

Radiation treatments are readily available<br />

to produce colours in diamonds, so<br />

consumers should be cautious when<br />

presented with a coloured diamond at a<br />

surprisingly modest price.<br />

Classified according to their hue, tone and<br />

saturation, the value of coloured stones<br />

generally increases with the strength<br />

and purity of the colour. Large, fancycoloured<br />

diamonds are extremely rare, and<br />

correspondingly valuable because they are a<br />

wonderful sight to behold. i<br />

STACEY LIM FGAA BA Design, is a qualified<br />

gemmologist and gemmology teacher/assistant.<br />

She is a jewellery designer, marketing manager<br />

and passionate communicator on gemmology.<br />

For information on gemstones, visit: gem.org.au<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 37


Behind every gemstone,<br />

there is a fascinating story<br />

waiting to delight clients<br />

around the world. Studying<br />

with GAA brings the<br />

expertise, networking and<br />

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BUSINESS<br />

CUSTOMER SERVICE IS NO ACCIDENT<br />

The industry is always changing the<br />

way it delivers customer service but is<br />

customer service itself any different?<br />

SHEP HYKEN offers retailers a customerfocused<br />

service refresher.<br />

Every week I’m asked, “What is changing in<br />

customer service?” The expected answer<br />

is that I’ll talk about all the new ways<br />

that customer service and support is<br />

conducted… and I do.<br />

There are self-service solutions that<br />

include video and answer frequently-asked<br />

questions (FAQs), social-media customer<br />

service across multiple channels such as<br />

Facebook and Twitter, and even AI (Artificial<br />

Intelligence) that the experts believe –<br />

myself included – will change everything<br />

about customer service.<br />

Yes, there is much that is changing about<br />

how we deliver customer service so I’m<br />

about to make a bold statement: despite all<br />

of these advancements, customer service is<br />

still the same as it was 50 years ago and will<br />

still be the same 50 years from now.<br />

needing service, whether it’s having a<br />

question answered or a problem resolved.<br />

In the end, the aim is that the customer is<br />

happy. That’s it. When it comes to customer<br />

expectations, they’re essentially all the<br />

same. In other words, nothing has changed<br />

in customer service!<br />

FASTER AND BETTER<br />

Okay, maybe it’s better said a different<br />

way. When it comes to the outcome<br />

of a customer service experience, the<br />

customer’s expectations haven’t changed;<br />

they still just want to be heard.<br />

That said, there are new and different ways<br />

to reach the outcome. What has changed<br />

is the way we go about delivering service;<br />

we’ve figured out how to deliver customer<br />

service faster and even better.<br />

Back in the day, speaking of some 20 years<br />

ago, there were typically just two ways to<br />

provide customer service: in person and<br />

over the phone. Then technology kicked in<br />

and we started making service and support<br />

IN THE END, THE<br />

AIM IS THAT THE<br />

CUSTOMER IS<br />

HAPPY. THAT’S IT.<br />

WHEN IT COMES<br />

TO CUSTOMER<br />

EXPECTATIONS,<br />

THEY’RE<br />

ESSENTIALLY ALL<br />

THE SAME<br />

For example, there is now a solution for<br />

those choosing to offer support over the<br />

phone that lets customers know how long<br />

they have to wait on hold to speak to a<br />

customer-service representative.<br />

Sometimes customers are given the<br />

option of being called back at a time<br />

that is more convenient if they don’t<br />

have time to wait.<br />

In addition to the phone, there are now<br />

many other channels through which<br />

customers can connect with businesses.<br />

Beyond the phone, there is email, live<br />

online chat, social media posts and more.<br />

Businesses that are thinking about<br />

implementing a new customer-service<br />

solution, adding AI to support customers<br />

and agents or deciding which tools they<br />

want to use should remember one crucial<br />

piece of information: the customer’s<br />

expectations haven’t changed. Customers<br />

still just want to be served, regardless of<br />

how businesses choose to go about it.<br />

Customer service is just a customer<br />

better and more efficient.<br />

Customer service starts as a customer who<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 39


BUSINESS<br />

EMPLOYEES ARE OFTEN THE ONLY REPRESENTATIVES OF A BUSINESS IN CONTACT WITH CUSTOMERS<br />

AT ANY GIVEN<br />

TIME IN A<br />

CUSTOMER<br />

TRANSACTION,<br />

ONE EMPLOYEE<br />

HAS THE<br />

RESPONSIBILITY<br />

TO DELIVER AN<br />

EXPERIENCE THAT<br />

IS IN ALIGNMENT<br />

WITH YOUR<br />

VISION – THE<br />

ONE WHO IS<br />

CURRENTLY<br />

INTERACTING<br />

WITH THE<br />

CUSTOMER<br />

KNOW THE LINE IN THE SAND<br />

An environment that fosters a customerfocus<br />

mindset empowers people to do<br />

what is necessary to take care of the<br />

customer without crossing the line.<br />

The boundaries are typically further out<br />

than most people think. Teach employees<br />

by example just how far they can go when<br />

taking care of their customers.<br />

ALWAYS LEARNING<br />

The best of the best are continuous learners,<br />

and not just about their own products.<br />

They learn about competitors, they stay<br />

abreast of the latest and greatest in the<br />

industry, they boost their general product<br />

and service knowledge and much more.<br />

They are interesting people with whom<br />

to talk because they understand how to<br />

address customers the right way.<br />

needs help, who is dealing with a problem,<br />

who is upset about something or who just<br />

wants to ask a question. It should end with<br />

that person feeling resolved, walking away<br />

knowing they made the right decision to<br />

do business with you.<br />

CUSTOMER-FOCUS MINDSET<br />

How you get from the beginning to the<br />

end is not nearly as important as how<br />

customers feel when they walk away, hang<br />

up the phone or turn off their computers.<br />

Customer service might be the same as it’s<br />

always been; however, it’s vital these days<br />

for retailers to help staff adopt a customerfocused<br />

mindset.<br />

That is, your staff probably attend<br />

customer-service training to learn<br />

techniques on how to deal with<br />

complaining customers, angry customers<br />

or customers who just need a little support.<br />

Training ensures staff are taught the right<br />

answers to some difficult yet common<br />

scenarios but what happens when<br />

scenarios occur that are outside the<br />

parameters of normal retail training?<br />

Good customer-service training teaches<br />

employees how to do it but great customer<br />

service training goes deep into the<br />

mindset, which is more than having a great<br />

attitude, a smile and a warm personality.<br />

Those qualities are important but a<br />

customer-focus mindset encompasses the<br />

‘how-to’ training and the positive attitude<br />

with an understanding of the reason why<br />

businesses relentlessly pursue an amazing<br />

customer experience.<br />

Such reasons are usually considered<br />

intangible – they might be about an inner<br />

drive and an ambitious effort to take care<br />

of the customer. Sometimes they can be<br />

intuitive. Certainly, they’re different for<br />

all businesses but here are five concepts<br />

that will help create a winning customerfocused<br />

mindset.<br />

TAKE CARE OF PEOPLE<br />

Not every employee has this mindset<br />

coming in and it’s possible that they might<br />

not achieve it even after basic customer<br />

service training.<br />

Sure, they may understand the techniques<br />

to deliver service but still not get the<br />

essence. A customer-focused mindset must<br />

always includes a strong desire to serve.<br />

BE IN THE MOMENT<br />

This is the ability to know when you are<br />

delivering a positive service experience.<br />

There are certain aspects of delivering<br />

service that are natural and automatic;<br />

however, people must be conscious of<br />

what they are doing and always looking for<br />

ways to make it better.<br />

RECOGNISING RESPONSIBILITY<br />

At any given time in a customer transaction,<br />

one employee has the responsibility to<br />

deliver an experience that is in alignment<br />

with your vision – the one who is currently<br />

interacting with the customer. This one<br />

person represents your brand and all his<br />

or her fellow employees. Does he or she<br />

deliver on that vision?<br />

Employees are central to the customerservice<br />

experience as they are often the<br />

only representatives of a business to be in<br />

direct and constant contact with customers.<br />

Don’t leave customer service to chance.<br />

Regardless of how good your employees’<br />

people skills are, you can’t simply hope they<br />

will understand how to apply what they<br />

know to your business. Train them and train<br />

often. Reinforce the positive and learn from<br />

any problems that arise.<br />

Ensure your staff have a customer focus<br />

to ensure your store is delivering upon<br />

its customer-service promises. Amazing<br />

customer service doesn’t happen by<br />

accident. It happens on purpose! i<br />

SHEP HYKEN is a best selling<br />

author who assists companies<br />

to build relationships with<br />

customers and employees.<br />

Learn More: hyken.com<br />

40 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong>


SELLING<br />

TO CATCH A BUYER…<br />

TO SELL TO BUYERS, SHOULDN’T SALESPEOPLE THINK LIKE BUYERS? SUE BARRETT EXPLAINS WHY THE SALES<br />

PROCESS WORKS BETTER FROM THE BUYER’S PERSPECTIVE, AND FOUR SIMPLE STEPS TO BREAK IT ALL DOWN.<br />

In the classic movie Caddyshack, Bill Murray<br />

tries in vain to catch a gopher that is ruining<br />

the golf course. Eventually, it occurs to<br />

him, “In order to catch a gopher, you have<br />

to think like one,” which is good advice for<br />

salespeople who want to ‘catch’ customers.<br />

Salespeople need to understand how<br />

customers buy. Salespeople know, at all<br />

times, where their prospects are in the sales<br />

cycle but they aren’t as knowledgeable<br />

on where their prospects are in their own<br />

buying cycles. If sales managers truly believe<br />

they know where buyers are in the purchase<br />

process, why do so many of them fail to put<br />

the knowledge to practical use?<br />

Barrett Consulting head of learning and<br />

development Jens Hartmann says, “We<br />

have found that this situation is endemic in<br />

most sales forces today, many of which are<br />

obsessed about their sales process.”<br />

Too many organisations invest millions of<br />

dollars in CRM and contact management<br />

technology and in training their salespeople<br />

on the sales process; however, this ignores<br />

that there’s a buyer at the other end whose<br />

own process is far more important.<br />

Take, for instance, the step in most sales<br />

processes where salespeople must identify a<br />

buyer’s need, yet sales is not really about the<br />

salesperson finding a need. Instead, they are<br />

more concerned with the buyer recognising<br />

that a need exists, and then doing something<br />

to satisfy that need.<br />

How important is that need in the scheme of<br />

issues facing the buyer? Does the prospect<br />

have the emotional desire to act? Is the<br />

probable solution the best alternative? What<br />

are the consequences if the need is left<br />

partially or even totally unresolved?<br />

All these points need to be weighed up<br />

and considered. After all, the sales process<br />

dictates that the salesperson should progress<br />

to the next stage of the cycle when a need<br />

has been uncovered.<br />

The challenge of using technology to<br />

THE BUYER<br />

BECOMES AWARE<br />

THEY HAVE A<br />

CHALLENGE TO<br />

ADDRESS. THEY<br />

BEGIN DEFINING<br />

THE OBJECTIVES<br />

AND DETERMINE<br />

IF THEY HAVE THE<br />

RESOURCES TO<br />

ACHIEVE THEIR<br />

GOALS<br />

WHERE ARE BUYERS IN THE SALES PROCESS?<br />

drive sales has undoubtedly reduced the<br />

cost of sale in absolute terms; however, it<br />

has also cost many organisations in lost<br />

opportunities because of their haste to<br />

progress through the cycle. How does one<br />

close the gap between their own selling<br />

process and selling to the customer’s buying<br />

cycle without going back to square one?<br />

Firstly, salespeople need to understand the<br />

buying process. Every buyer goes through<br />

the following four steps:<br />

Step 1: Awareness<br />

The buyer becomes aware they have a<br />

challenge to address. They begin defining<br />

the objectives and determine if they have<br />

the resources to achieve their goals. Once<br />

they become aware that they have a need,<br />

prospects start considering options.<br />

Step 2: Interest<br />

Here’s where buyers look into their options.<br />

They understand there are options available<br />

but they will also factor in the risk of<br />

changing. What will happen to them if they<br />

change? Salespeople need to acknowledge<br />

that prospects have options and are also<br />

assessing risks. Any buyer will wrap up this<br />

stage by making an emotional decision to<br />

buy or reject the proposition. Salespeople<br />

who fail to understand the buyer’s priorities<br />

risk profile and options can’t get past this<br />

stage even if they have the perfect solution.<br />

Step 3: Desire<br />

Desire is the rational side of decision making.<br />

The customer has made the emotional<br />

decision to buy in during the interest phase<br />

and is now looking at the numbers: Can<br />

they afford it? Is there an adequate return<br />

on the investment? What are the political<br />

ramifications within the company?<br />

Step 4: Action<br />

The customer is emotionally and rationally<br />

ready to buy. If the salesperson has done a<br />

good job aligning the selling process to the<br />

customer’s buying process, the prospect<br />

should give a “yes”, the moment they enter<br />

the action stage.<br />

Once organisations understand these four<br />

steps, they are ready to align their sales<br />

processes to the buying processes of their<br />

customers. This is simply plugging each step<br />

in the sales process into the corresponding<br />

step in the buying process and arranging it<br />

as logically as possible.<br />

Salespeople should now be tracking sales<br />

progress by moving from step to step in the<br />

customer’s buying process. This means they<br />

won’t exit the stage of identifying a need<br />

until the customer recognises the need,<br />

decides to give it priority over other issues<br />

and makes an emotional decision to pursue<br />

their need further.<br />

By making these adjustments, organisations<br />

will significantly reduce their lost deals<br />

and shorten the sales cycle as salespeople<br />

focus more of their time on prospects in the<br />

higher-value stages of the buying cycle. i<br />

SUE BARRETT is founder<br />

and CEO of sales advisory firm<br />

Barrett, and online platform<br />

salesessentials.com. Learn<br />

more: barrett.com.au<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 41


MANAGEMENT<br />

STOP STAFF THEFT AT THE SOURCE<br />

INTERNAL THEFT IS AN UGLY BLIGHT ON RETAIL TRADING. DAVID GELLER OFFERS STRATEGIES TO HELP.<br />

Over the years I’ve heard countless stories of internal theft. Sometimes<br />

sales staff brazenly stealing from the cases, other times back-office staff<br />

rigging the books.<br />

In one case, a jeweller found his bookkeeper – a relative no less – had<br />

been writing cheques to non-existent suppliers and cashing the<br />

proceeds. She was caught; however, that store’s checks and balances<br />

were so bad that the new bookkeeper was soon at the same game.<br />

Many jewellers find it difficult to keep on top of their financials but if<br />

you give up your responsibilities in this area, you will soon pay a heavy<br />

price for doing so.<br />

MANY JEWELLERS<br />

FIND IT DIFFICULT<br />

TO KEEP ON<br />

TOP OF THEIR<br />

FINANCIALS BUT IF<br />

YOU GIVE UP YOUR<br />

RESPONSIBILITIES<br />

IN THIS AREA, YOU<br />

WILL SOON PAY A<br />

HEAVY PRICE FOR<br />

DOING SO<br />

Here are nine ways to help reduce fraud and internal theft.<br />

1. Use an independent accountant to reconcile the books – two sets<br />

of eyes will catch or any would-be thieves. If the store above had done<br />

this, stray cash deposits would have popped up in the first month.<br />

2. When stock arrives, photocopy the supplier’s invoice and give the<br />

copy to whoever enters the items into the Point of Sale (POS). After<br />

entering inventory, print copies from the POS of items just entered and<br />

compare it to the original invoice. If someone is ordering extra items<br />

and not entering them, it’ll show up here.<br />

3. When paying bills, one bookkeeper shouldn’t handle the whole<br />

procedure. Let the bookkeeper assemble the bills and prepare the<br />

payments, attaching cheques or EFT authorisations to the original<br />

invoices, then handing the lot to the owner to sign.<br />

Also print the accounts-payable record for that vendor. Do this for two<br />

reasons: First, look to see if what was received was entered. Second,<br />

look at the vendor report to see if the bookkeeper has used any credits.<br />

After the owner signs and OKs everything, the bookkeeper can then<br />

mail the cheque or make the EFT payment and file the invoice.<br />

4. All cheques should have an invoice attached to the cheque for the<br />

owner to sign, not the bookkeeper. This allows owners to keep track of<br />

payments for suppliers they don’t know. You might ask the question<br />

one day, “Just who is Acme Plumbing?”<br />

5. The cash-register drawer should have the same amount of cash in it<br />

every day – say $200. Remove excess cash daily, taking it directly to the<br />

bank or the safe.<br />

6. Make paper copies of the items in each display case, including SKU<br />

numbers, a small description, retail price and the case they’re in. Each<br />

morning, count the number of items in the case and check it against<br />

the paper record. If the numbers don’t match, don’t go further until<br />

you find the cause of the discrepancy. This process will keep everyone<br />

on their toes.<br />

7. Instead of conducting a stocktake only at the end of the financial<br />

year, do a count of one showcase at a time each month. The choice of<br />

USE AN INDEPENDENT ACCOUNTANT TO RECONCILE THE BOOKS<br />

case should be random, determined by the owner. This way staff won’t<br />

know which cases and items are being monitored.<br />

8. Thought I forgot about the shop? Never! I’m sure we experienced<br />

theft of metals, stones and findings for many years. I had many<br />

jewellers working at home to earn extra money and don’t know how<br />

many heads and lobster claws went out the door. I once let a jeweller<br />

go because he was incompetent and when I cleaned out his bench I<br />

found, to my surprise, several melted heads and shanks.<br />

To fix this, I hired a shop foreman who gave out and inspected all<br />

jobs to the jeweller, the polisher and then to the sales staff when a<br />

repair job was done. If a jeweller needed a finding, he got it from the<br />

foreman and not the findings cabinet.<br />

9. Many jewellers order three heads when they need only two,<br />

just in case one is melted. Unused ones should be returned to the<br />

foreman for stock or to the office to be returned for credit. On the<br />

back of each envelope, write the amounts needed for the job and the<br />

number enclosed. When the foreman gets the job back, he’ll know<br />

if something is missing and yell, “Hey where’s the extra head? Give it<br />

back!” This system also helps cut down on wasteful use of materials.<br />

These are just some of the strategies we’ve used to counter internal<br />

theft. I wish it weren’t so but I’m sure you have your own stories. With<br />

some vigilance, stores can put an end to such losses. i<br />

DAVID GELLER is director at JewelerProfit and<br />

author of Blue Book, a guide to repairs and custom<br />

design. Learn more: jewelerprofit.com<br />

42 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong>


MARKETING & PR<br />

GROW BUSINESS WITH COUPONS<br />

COUPONS ARE STILL RELEVANT IN RETAIL AND PRESENT A GREAT WAY FOR COMPANIES TO OFFER DISCOUNTS AND BOOST SALES,<br />

ALTHOUGH LUXURY RETAILERS NEED TO BE CAREFUL WHEN PLANNING A PROMOTIONAL STRATEGY. BRIAN EWING REPORTS.<br />

A recent report from Edison Research division<br />

called The Social Habit shows that 70 per cent<br />

of email readers open emails from a brand<br />

or company in search of a deal, discount or<br />

coupon. High-end businesses tend to run<br />

discounts only on an annual or semi-annual<br />

basis to maintain a certain level of brand<br />

equity. This may appear a successful strategy<br />

but it may also ignore the opportunity costs of<br />

luring new customers in a slightly-lower tier.<br />

The benefit of today’s technology, including<br />

customer management systems and POS<br />

systems, is the incredible amount of data<br />

that becomes available about a business’s<br />

customer base. This allows the promotional<br />

messaging to be geared towards a very<br />

specific audience. Avoid cannibalising highvalue<br />

customers by targeting those lower-tier,<br />

more frequent purchasers or those who have<br />

hesitated to make a purchase.<br />

At this point, customers are used to coupons<br />

and specialised offers as a basic component of<br />

their brand relationships. It’s also an important<br />

tool for independents to compete with<br />

chain store jewellers. Here are a few steps to<br />

consider before you decide to add one to your<br />

next email campaign.<br />

MAKE SURE COUPONS HAVE A GOAL<br />

Every coupon should have at least one main<br />

goal: to drive customers to take a specific<br />

action. If the goal is to increase sales during<br />

low traffic times, consider using a bounceback<br />

coupon. Maybe the goal is to sell<br />

complementary products to increase the<br />

overall purchase amount.<br />

DECIDE ON A PERCENTAGE OR<br />

DOLLAR DISCOUNT<br />

When offering a discount, maximise the<br />

perceived value to give people the notion that<br />

they have the best deal possible. Take a ring<br />

listed at $50. Does a discount of 20 per cent or<br />

$10 sound better? The math indicates they are<br />

equal but the perceived value is not.<br />

In his book, Contagious: Why Things Catch On,<br />

Jonah Berger focuses on the “Rule of 100”.<br />

WHEN THE<br />

PRICE IS UNDER<br />

$100, USE A<br />

PERCENTAGE<br />

DISCOUNT. IF<br />

THE PRICE IS OVER<br />

$100, USE AN<br />

ABSOLUTE VALUE.<br />

FOR EXAMPLE,<br />

20 PER CENT OFF<br />

SOUNDS GREATER<br />

THAN $10<br />

OFF $50.<br />

READERS OF EMAILS WANT A DISCOUNT<br />

When the price is under $100, use a<br />

percentage discount. If the price is over $100,<br />

use an absolute value. In the above example,<br />

20 per cent off sounds greater than $10 off.<br />

CHOOSE THE COUPON TYPE<br />

There are many coupon types. Some of the<br />

popular ones are referral coupons, bounceback<br />

coupons, new customer coupons, VIP,<br />

exclusive, and large-purchase coupons.<br />

• Referral coupons – according to The New<br />

York Times, 65 per cent of new business<br />

comes from referrals but the numbers<br />

don’t just stop there. Nielsen follows this<br />

statistic by claiming that people are four<br />

times more likely to buy when referred by<br />

a friend. Tap into your existing customer<br />

base by giving a discount to referrers as<br />

well as new customers.<br />

• Bounce-back coupons – these take the<br />

traditional coupon to the next level by<br />

requiring a customer to use them on a<br />

return visit. The goal with a bounce-back<br />

coupon is simple: give your customers<br />

a reason to return. Because of this<br />

limitation, bounce-back coupons are<br />

great to distribute during the holidays<br />

and other periods of high volume to<br />

assist in growing transactions during the<br />

slower months that follow. For example,<br />

share a bounce-back coupon during the<br />

Valentine’s Day rush that must be used in<br />

<strong>March</strong> or April.<br />

• New customer coupons – since 70 per<br />

cent of email readers open emails in<br />

search of a discount or deal, it makes sense<br />

to give a coupon in the first email they<br />

receive. Welcome new customers to your<br />

store with a small discount or gift to give<br />

them a reason to continue opening your<br />

email newsletters.<br />

• VIP/exclusive offer coupons – rewarding<br />

your regular customers helps build brand<br />

loyalty. A quarterly email with a coupon<br />

attached to VIP customers will show that<br />

they are valued. Also target this type of<br />

campaign to frequent customers with<br />

lower individual-purchase amounts.<br />

• Large-purchase coupons – to help<br />

increase sales, offer customers a discount<br />

based on their total purchase amounts.<br />

Before the discount and amount can be<br />

determined, calculate your average dollar<br />

sale (ADS) to get a baseline for the typical<br />

purchase amount. After that, increase<br />

the minimum purchase amount for the<br />

coupon by 20-30 per cent and offer a<br />

small discount. It’s an easy way to reward<br />

people for spending more in your store.<br />

In conclusion, high-end retailers should<br />

experiment with promotions and determine<br />

what works best for their business and<br />

audience. The importance of maintaining<br />

brand image can’t be understated;<br />

however, completely avoiding coupons<br />

may be limiting the reach to potential new<br />

customers and restricting additional growth<br />

opportunities throughout the year. i<br />

BRIAN EWING is channel<br />

manager at SnapRetail!, an<br />

online marketing platform for<br />

small business owners. Learn<br />

more: snapretail.com<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 43


LOGGED ON<br />

SOUND SOCIAL-MEDIA STRATEGY<br />

SUCCESSFUL SOCIAL MEDIA REQUIRES CAREFUL CONSIDERATION. DIGITAL MARKETING CONSULTANT SIMON DELL<br />

LISTS THE QUESTIONS THAT FIRMS SHOULD ASK BEFORE LAUNCHING ONLINE CONTENT STRATEGIES.<br />

Organisations often go headlong at<br />

social media strategy like a bull at a gate.<br />

Sometimes it’s because a CEO has seen sales<br />

flagging and has decided that the solution<br />

to better growth is a social presence.<br />

Other times competitors spur businesses<br />

into action and sometimes it’s just because<br />

social media has been in the pipeline for a<br />

while and has finally received the go ahead.<br />

Before embarking upon any social-media<br />

activity, managers should stop and<br />

consider these six core questions.<br />

ONLY WE…?<br />

A good social presence arises when a<br />

company or individual communicates to an<br />

audience a unique perspective on an issue<br />

related to their field of skills or a product or<br />

service that only they deliver.<br />

Think hard. What is it about your business<br />

that makes you stand out? What is it that<br />

makes your current customers buy from<br />

you? Why do they keep coming back? Is it<br />

because they love you or is it because they<br />

have no other choice?<br />

How does the company fit into the general<br />

marketplace? Is it a trusted legacy business<br />

or a fast-moving start-up?<br />

ARE YOU PREPARED TO PUBLISH?<br />

All the meetings and money in the world<br />

can’t sustain a strong social presence if<br />

the company isn’t prepared to provide the<br />

necessary engagement. For example, how<br />

does your company deal with negative<br />

comments on a public post? Do you panic<br />

and delete them? Do you fire off defensive<br />

or snappy responses? Do you offer a<br />

restrained reply?<br />

In short, do you have the processes in<br />

place to take those negative comments<br />

and use them to your benefit, growing and<br />

developing your business at the same time?<br />

Content through social channels needs to<br />

be entertaining, informative or both. Do you<br />

have the capacity to do that? Many brands<br />

attempt to be entertaining but lack the skills<br />

to execute this properly. Poor delivery isn’t<br />

going to convince and convert anyone.<br />

CAN YOU BE CONVERSATIONAL?<br />

Social media is a two-way street and<br />

businesses sometimes forget this. People<br />

want to ask you questions, whether it’s<br />

about the location and time of their next<br />

delivery or something more esoteric. Not all<br />

people are on social media to waste time;<br />

some are seeking information!<br />

Importantly, you want those users who ask<br />

questions to get the answers they need. To<br />

achieve this, your social-media presence<br />

needs to be able to successfully converse<br />

with potential customers.<br />

WHAT ARE COMPETITORS DOING?<br />

This is a basic question but one that can get<br />

overlooked. Businesses set out to do the<br />

best they can on social media but it’s not<br />

necessary to have the greatest page in the<br />

world, just to have a better page than your<br />

nearest competitor.<br />

A little market research goes a long way –<br />

study your competition to understand how<br />

you can do things better. Incorporate your<br />

findings into your strategy for a much easier<br />

pathway to social-media success.<br />

WHAT IS THE SOURCE OF OUR CONTENT?<br />

This is the biggie. Content is more than<br />

just the odd tweet; it needs to be rich and<br />

engaging. Where are you going to get that?<br />

Content is everywhere; there are<br />

innumerable sources and content types.<br />

Now, businesses don’t need to try to feature<br />

them all but they do need to choose a few<br />

and do them well.<br />

Pick three or four out of the list and smash<br />

them. Don’t try and do ten of them and<br />

end-up with a half-assed job. That’s almost<br />

worse than doing nothing at all.<br />

When you do create content, focus on<br />

WHAT’S THE BEST WAY TO BE CONVERSATIONAL ON SOCIAL MEDIA?<br />

PICK THREE OR<br />

FOUR OUT OF THE<br />

LIST AND SMASH<br />

THEM. DON’T TRY<br />

AND DO TEN OF<br />

THEM AND END-<br />

UP WITH A HALF-<br />

ASSED JOB<br />

making it searchable, in-depth, quotable<br />

and evergreen – it should still be relevant<br />

in a year’s time. If you can do that, you’ll<br />

find people will share it and you’ll start to<br />

position your business as an authority.<br />

WHAT IS SUCCESSFUL SOCIAL-MEDIA?<br />

There’s no point in any of this unless you<br />

have some sort of metric with which to<br />

measure your success. How would your<br />

company define success in the social-media<br />

space? Claiming ‘engagement’ as a metric is<br />

pointless. Engagement doesn’t sell things,<br />

no matter what other social media gurus<br />

out there might claim.<br />

Don’t be afraid to tie your activity to real<br />

sales metrics. How many new business<br />

enquiries do you get? How many times are<br />

current clients referring new clients to you?<br />

How many widgets have you sold?<br />

Don’t be afraid to use social media to deliver<br />

a call to action. Don’t do it all the time, of<br />

course, but don’t be scared off either. i<br />

SIMON DELL operates his<br />

own agency, focusing on<br />

digital marketing strategies<br />

and customer engagement.<br />

Learn more: simondell.com<br />

44 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong>


MY STORE<br />

STORE:<br />

CAROLINE NÉRON<br />

COUNTRY: Canada<br />

NAME: Caroline Néron<br />

POSITION: Founder, Caroline Néron<br />

When was the renovated<br />

space completed?<br />

Our flagship store in Laval, Quebec was<br />

renovated in April 2015.<br />

Who is the target market and how<br />

did they influence the store design?<br />

Our target market is the young and<br />

young at heart.<br />

The ever-evolving Millennial consumer’s<br />

lifestyle and experience of having<br />

visual access and catering to instant<br />

gratification through a shopping<br />

experience made us realise that our<br />

space needed to be not only welcoming<br />

but also easy to navigate.<br />

With the relationship between store<br />

ambience and consumer purchasing<br />

in mind, which features in the store<br />

encourage sales?<br />

We made sure that our store not<br />

only had a closed-in showcase that<br />

represented our stories and lifestyles<br />

correctly but that consumers also<br />

had access to our product through<br />

the tangible runway in the centre<br />

of our store.<br />

Consumers can gather to complete<br />

their shopping experience through<br />

touch and trial as if they were in<br />

their own closets, all with the helpful<br />

guidance of our sales associates.<br />

What is the store design’s ‘<br />

wow factor’?<br />

Our ‘wow’ factor is obviously our<br />

centre runway platform, which<br />

exudes the vision of our company,<br />

“Glamour with a bohemian spirit.”<br />

While fashion can be interpreted in<br />

many forms, we wished to provide<br />

a full circle experience through our<br />

campaigns, products and retail stores<br />

to the ever evolving consumer. i<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 45


10 YEARS AGO<br />

WHAT WAS MAKING NEWS 10 YEARS AGO?<br />

A SNAPSHOT OF THE INDUSTRY EVENTS THAT MADE NEWS HEADLINES IN THE MARCH 2008 ISSUE OF JEWELLER.<br />

New look, new<br />

stores for Pandora<br />

The story: Pandora has launched a new<br />

marketing campaign and logo for 2008,<br />

aimed at reflecting a recent surge in the<br />

brand’s recognition. The logo is now<br />

headed by a crown, which “not only<br />

represents the status of this crowned-<br />

Danish brand, but represents a ring<br />

that hints at the endless universe that is<br />

Pandora’s range of jewellery.”<br />

The campaign replaces Pandora’s previous<br />

promotion, which featured fashion<br />

magazine editors creating their own<br />

Pandora bracelets.<br />

Australian Press Council sides<br />

with JAA over poll reports<br />

The story: The Australian Press Council (APC) has<br />

upheld a complaint from the JAA against Fairfax<br />

media, and ordered the publisher to print “an<br />

adjudication in full detail”.<br />

The Sydney Morning Herald’s website ran a story about<br />

a survey conducted by the Diamond Certification<br />

Laboratory of Australia (DCLA) that claimed 70 per<br />

cent of consumers suspect they are being “ripped<br />

off” when they buy diamonds, and do not trust<br />

jewellers. A similar story was also published on News<br />

Limited’s online news site (news.com.au).<br />

The JAA promptly challenged both Fairfax and<br />

News Limited, complaining that the online poll<br />

was open-access, uncontrolled and flawed with<br />

inaccuracies.<br />

The APC statement said: “While DCLA may well be<br />

an expert on diamonds, its press release did not<br />

state its own views about the honesty of jewellers,<br />

but rather those of an unknown number of people<br />

attracted to an online poll.”<br />

VALE: DR GRAHAM BROWN<br />

The story: The Australian<br />

gemmological and jewellery<br />

industries are mourning the<br />

passing of gemmologist Grahame<br />

Brown. Aged 71, he died of<br />

cancer on January 15 at Wesley<br />

Hospital, Brisbane.<br />

The editor of Australian Gemmologist<br />

and author of more than 500<br />

published gemmological papers,<br />

Brown will be remembered not only<br />

for his significant contribution to<br />

the worldwide gemmological<br />

community but also as a good<br />

friend and mentor to many.<br />

In 1978, Brown was awarded the<br />

first GAA Research Diploma for<br />

investigations into the structure<br />

and properties of precious corals.<br />

He was also awarded the GAA’s<br />

highest accolade of Honorary Life<br />

Membership in 1990.<br />

Palloys under new management<br />

The story: Australia’s oldest casting service has<br />

changed hands. Palloys has been purchased by the<br />

Cochineas family in a deal set to ensure all Palloys’<br />

staff – including former owner Norm Kay – will remain<br />

employed by the business.<br />

“This is an exciting period. Our new partners bring<br />

fresh ideas that will only improve our customer<br />

offering with improved designs, CAD CAM services<br />

and better quality,” Kay said.<br />

New director Andrew Cochineas is equally excited by<br />

the move: “Palloys is highly-respected in the trade for<br />

providing quality castings within short time frames.<br />

It is a pleasure to be working with the best in the<br />

business,” he said.<br />

46 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong>


EVENTS<br />

JEWELLERY AND WATCH CALENDAR<br />

A GUIDE TO THE LOCAL AND INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY AND WATCH EVENTS SCHEDULED TO TAKE PLACE IN THE YEAR AHEAD.<br />

MARCH <strong>2018</strong><br />

JEWELLERY SALON<br />

Odessa, Ukraine<br />

<strong>March</strong> 1–4<br />

Learn more: expo-odessa.com/ru/ovystavke-us-vesna-<strong>2018</strong><br />

HONG KONG<br />

INTERNATIONAL<br />

JEWELLERY SHOW<br />

Hong Kong<br />

<strong>March</strong> 1–5<br />

Learn more: m.hktdc.com/fair/<br />

hkjewellery-en/HKTDC-Hong-Kong-<br />

International-<strong>Jeweller</strong>y-Show.html<br />

JA INTERNATIONAL<br />

JEWELRY SHOW<br />

New York, US<br />

<strong>March</strong> 11–13<br />

Learn more: ja-newyork.com<br />

MANUFACTURING<br />

JEWELERS AND SUPPLIERS<br />

OF AMERICA EXPO<br />

New York, US<br />

<strong>March</strong> 11–13<br />

Learn more: mjsa.org/eventsprograms/<br />

mjsa_expo<br />

AMBERIF - INTERNATIONAL<br />

FAIR OF AMBER, JEWELRY<br />

AND GEMSTONES<br />

Gdansk, Poland<br />

<strong>March</strong> 21–24<br />

Learn more: amberif.amberexpo.pl/<br />

ISTANBUL JEWELRY SHOW<br />

Istanbul, Turkey<br />

<strong>March</strong> 22–25<br />

Learn more: march.<br />

istanbuljewelryshow.com/en-us/<br />

BASELWORLD<br />

Basel, Switzerland<br />

<strong>March</strong> 22–27<br />

Learn more: baselworld.com<br />

COOBER PEDY GEM<br />

TRADE SHOW<br />

Coober Pedy, South Australia<br />

<strong>March</strong> 31 – April 1<br />

Learn more:<br />

cooberpedygemtradeshow.com.au/<br />

Home.aspx<br />

APRIL <strong>2018</strong><br />

PALAKISS<br />

Trade and delivery jewellery show Italy<br />

Vicenza, Italy<br />

April 7–9<br />

Learn more: palakisstore.com/en<br />

NATIONWIDE JEWELLERS<br />

ANTWERP TRIP<br />

Antwerp, Belgium<br />

April 8–13<br />

SHOWCASE JEWELLERS<br />

INDIA TRIP<br />

India<br />

April 15– 26<br />

MAY <strong>2018</strong><br />

GAA 71ST FEDERAL<br />

CONFERENCE AND<br />

SEMINAR<br />

HOBART, AUSTRALIA<br />

May 3–6<br />

Learn more: gem.org.au<br />

NATIONWIDE JEWELLERS<br />

AFRICA TRIP<br />

Africa<br />

May 3–11<br />

JUNE <strong>2018</strong><br />

JCK LAS VEGAS<br />

Las Vegas, US<br />

June 1–4<br />

Learn more: lasvegas.jckonline.com<br />

HONG KONG JEWELLERY &<br />

GEM FAIR<br />

Hong Kong<br />

June 21–24<br />

Learn more: jewellerynetasia.com<br />

JULY <strong>2018</strong><br />

WINTON OPAL<br />

TRADESHOW<br />

Winton, QLD<br />

July 13–14<br />

Learn more: qboa.com.au<br />

LIGHTNING RIDGE OPAL<br />

AND GEM FESTIVAL<br />

Lightning Ridge, NSW<br />

July 26–29<br />

Learn more: lightningridgeopalfestival.<br />

com.au<br />

AUGUST <strong>2018</strong><br />

AUSTRALIAN OPAL<br />

EXHIBITION<br />

Gold Coast, Australia<br />

August 2–3<br />

Learn more: austopalexpo.com.au<br />

LEADING EDGE GROUP<br />

JEWELLERS MEMBER AND<br />

SUPPLIER CONFERENCE<br />

Sydney, Australia<br />

TBA<br />

SHOWCASE JEWELLERS<br />

MEMBER AND SUPPLIER<br />

CONFERENCE<br />

Hunter Valley, NSW<br />

August 20–24<br />

NATIONWIDE JEWELLERS<br />

MEMBER EVENTS<br />

(in conjunction with International<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair)<br />

Sydney, Australia<br />

August 25–27<br />

INTERNATIONAL<br />

JEWELLERY FAIR<br />

Sydney, Australia<br />

August 25–27<br />

Learn more: jewelleryfair.com.<br />

au/<strong>2018</strong><br />

SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong><br />

INTERNATIONAL<br />

JEWELLERY LONDON<br />

London, UK<br />

September 2–4<br />

Learn more: jewellerylondon.com<br />

HONG KONG WATCH &<br />

CLOCK FAIR<br />

Hong Kong, China<br />

September 4–8<br />

Learn more: m.hktdc.com/fair/<br />

hkwatchfair-en/HKTDC-Hong-Kong-<br />

Watch-and-Clock-Fair.html<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 47


MY BENCH<br />

Kosta Theochari<br />

WORKS AT: MDTdesign<br />

AGE: 32<br />

YEARS IN TRADE: 16 years<br />

TRAINING: Certificate III in<br />

jewellery manufacture<br />

FIRST JOB: MDTdesign in<br />

2003<br />

OTHER QUALIFICATIONS:<br />

Practical diamond grading<br />

Favourite gemstone:<br />

I am in love with all<br />

diamonds. My favourite is<br />

high colour fancy yellow,<br />

each stone is unique and<br />

individual.<br />

Favourite metal:<br />

I love working in platinum<br />

as it poses more challenges<br />

than gold. The weight, look<br />

and feel is so much nicer!<br />

Favourite tool:<br />

I love my saw frame, as<br />

it is very old and I keep<br />

replacing components to<br />

keep it alive.<br />

Best new tool discovery:<br />

Laser welder is a great<br />

piece of machinery to have,<br />

especially when it comes to<br />

delicate re-tips.<br />

Best part of job:<br />

Remaking customers’ old<br />

pieces into something new<br />

and modern, and giving<br />

their old stones a new look!<br />

Worst part of job:<br />

Customers needing an<br />

engagement ring yesterday.<br />

Best tip from a jeweller:<br />

Aim for every component of<br />

the ring to be 100 per cent<br />

perfect. If every component<br />

is only 98 per cent perfect<br />

you will end up with a ring<br />

only 50 per cent perfect.<br />

Best tip to a jeweller:<br />

Learn to set your<br />

own stones.<br />

Love jewellery because:<br />

It has so much meaning,<br />

and resembles important<br />

points of people’s lives. i


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SOAPBOX<br />

A FAIR GO FOR GOLD<br />

During my early days as a jeweller,<br />

troubling images of filthy mines with<br />

poor working conditions prompted me<br />

to research alternative gold sources. This<br />

led me to become Australia’s first licensed<br />

supplier of Fairtrade Certified Gold, a<br />

qualification which guarantees the gold<br />

I work with has been mined and sold<br />

according to Fairtrade standards.<br />

However, there is confusion about what<br />

Fairtrade Gold is. Basically, Fairtrade gold is<br />

just gold! It doesn’t differ in composition<br />

or quality to gold from any other source.<br />

The difference is that Fairtrade Gold has the<br />

power to create better opportunities for<br />

disadvantaged miners and communities.<br />

Around 90 percent of the world’s gold<br />

producing workforce is made up of artisanal<br />

and small-scale miners (ASM). There are 16<br />

million of these miners and almost all of<br />

them work in illegal conditions with little<br />

access to sanitation or education.<br />

Often, ASM gold ends up being sold at<br />

as low as 70 percent of the international<br />

market price. Because of this, these miners<br />

are trapped in a cycle of poverty. They<br />

have no money to invest in improving their<br />

operations and no way of creating more<br />

efficient, sustainable mining practices.<br />

Without safe methods for gold extraction, in<br />

many cases they are forced to spend their<br />

days standing in pools of mercury.<br />

International laws protect those involved in<br />

large-scale mining and prevent hazardous<br />

practices like the unsafe use of mercury; but<br />

in practice, these laws do nothing to benefit<br />

small-scale miners.<br />

While most gold from bullion dealers in<br />

Australia is sourced from big mines which<br />

meet environmental guidelines and<br />

approved OHS standards, the point of using<br />

Fairtrade gold is to support change in an<br />

area that desperately needs it.<br />

Fairtrade gold is still sourced from small<br />

scale, artisanal mines, however there is a<br />

major difference; the miners are guaranteed<br />

a fair price for their efforts. Premiums paid<br />

by buyers are provided to the administrators<br />

to spend on improving their business, or on<br />

projects that benefit their local community.<br />

Fairtrade assistance allows formerly illegal<br />

miners to be registered and to receive<br />

appropriate training and support. The result<br />

is better, more efficient business practices<br />

and the opportunity to generate more sales<br />

on better terms.<br />

Our business uses gold sourced from the<br />

Sotrami mine in Peru, which is one of only<br />

a handful of mines to be Fairtrade accredited.<br />

Sotrami began with just a few workers in the<br />

1980s and now supports a village of 3,000<br />

people. It is cooperatively owned and the<br />

workers run a committee that enables them<br />

to hold the administrators accountable. In<br />

accordance with Fairtrade principles, a fixed<br />

proportion of profits go to the community,<br />

mainly to help provide water and electricity.<br />

The pay at Sotrami is good by industry<br />

standards. Those in charge of the mine have<br />

made a conscious attempt to minimise<br />

environmental impact by avoiding the use<br />

of mercury and controlling the use of other<br />

chemicals.<br />

IN ACCORDANCE<br />

WITH FAIRTRADE<br />

PRINCIPLES, A<br />

FIXED PROPORTION<br />

OF PROFITS GO TO<br />

THE COMMUNITY,<br />

MAINLY TO HELP<br />

PROVIDE WATER<br />

AND ELECTRICITY<br />

Many of my clients get in touch because<br />

their own search for ethical products has led<br />

them to my website. They come to me with<br />

numerous questions about Fairtrade gold<br />

and ethically sourced gemstones, which I am<br />

pleased to answer.<br />

My customers are very informed and I take<br />

pride in being able to share my knowledge<br />

with them.<br />

They leave delighted, not only because<br />

they have a one-of-a-kind wedding or<br />

engagement ring, but also because they are<br />

thrilled to have an ethical Fairtrade product<br />

with a positive story behind it. In most cases,<br />

they don’t mind paying the small premium in<br />

return for knowing the gold in their ring was<br />

ethically sourced.<br />

Fairtrade is inching its way towards the<br />

mainstream. I am looking forward to a future<br />

where more providers are proud to tell their<br />

clients that their gold has been mined with a<br />

lower impact to the planet, and in a way that<br />

benefits the people who source it.<br />

Fairtrade gold is available in 24ct grain,<br />

18ct white and yellow stock gauge, and is<br />

available from Fairtrade certified bullion<br />

dealers in the UK and Europe.<br />

Applying for a license is a fairly simply<br />

process managed through Fairtrade Australia.<br />

More: fairtrade.com.au i<br />

Name: Zoё Pook<br />

Business: Zoё Pook<br />

Position: Owner<br />

Location: Wahroonga, NSW<br />

Years in the industry: 12<br />

50 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong>


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