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VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY<br />
MARCH <strong>2018</strong><br />
In earshot<br />
ENDURING EARRINGS TRENDS: WHERE<br />
FASHION AND FINE JEWELLERY MEET<br />
Sneak peek<br />
+ +<br />
SUPPLIERS AROUND THE COUNTRY<br />
GIVE AN EXCLUSIVE PREVIEW OF <strong>2018</strong><br />
Group love<br />
THE <strong>2018</strong> BUYING GROUP<br />
REPORT IS IN: STICK TOGETHER
SIGNITY (THAILAND) LTD.<br />
SWAROVSKI GEMSTONES BUSINESS<br />
SIGNITYTHAILAND.OFFICE@SWAROVSKI.COM<br />
T +66(02) 237 2040<br />
F +66(02) 237 2041<br />
SWAROVSKI-GEMSTONES.COM<br />
KARLIE KLOSS<br />
Brilliant Precision<br />
BORN FROM A TRADITION OF<br />
MASTER CRAFTSMANSHIP<br />
VISIT SWAROVSKI-GEMSTONES.COM
WORLD SHINER PTY LTD<br />
Inspired Performance. Year After Year...<br />
WORLD SHINER<br />
World Shiner proudly introduces Argyle Pink Diamonds<br />
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VICTORIA Suite 502, Wales Corner, 227 Collins Street, Melbourne 3000, P: 03 9654 6369, E: melbourne@worldshiner.com<br />
QUEENSLAND Unit 17, Level 11, 138 Albert Street, Brisbane 4000, P: 07 3210 1237 E: brisbane@worldshiner.com<br />
NEW ZEALAND Suite 4K, 47 High Street, Auckland P: 09 358 3443 E: nz@worldshiner.com<br />
WWW.WORLDSHINER.COM<br />
• AUSTRALIA • BELGIUM • CANADA • GERMANY • INDIA • JAPAN • SPAIN • TAIWAN • UNITED KINGDOM • USA • NEW ZEALAND
ENDURING EARRINGS TRENDS: WHERE<br />
FASHION AND FINE JEWELLERY MEET<br />
VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY<br />
SUPPLIERS AROUND THE COUNTRY<br />
GIVE AN EXCLUSIVE PREVIEW OF <strong>2018</strong><br />
MARCH 2017<br />
THE <strong>2018</strong> BUYING GROUP<br />
REPORT IS IN: STICK TOGETHER<br />
CONTENTS<br />
MARCH <strong>2018</strong><br />
13/ 18/ 34/<br />
FEATURES REGULARS BUSINESS<br />
13/ PLAY IT BY EAR<br />
Fashion trends change, but through<br />
them all earrings have stayed.<br />
18/ SNEAK PEEK<br />
An exclusive preview of products<br />
headed for this year’s market.<br />
23/ BUYING GROUPS<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong>’s biennial report reviews why<br />
buying groups are still on point.<br />
34/ MOTHER’S DAY<br />
How to boost sales in the lead<br />
up to this special day.<br />
9/ Editorial<br />
10/ Upfront<br />
11/ News<br />
37/ Gems<br />
Colour investigation: diamond<br />
45/ My Store<br />
46/ 10 Years Ago<br />
47/ Calendar<br />
48/ My Bench<br />
50/ Soapbox<br />
Zoё Pook shines a light on the<br />
benefits of fair trade gold.<br />
39/ Business feature<br />
For customer service go back to<br />
basics, Shep Hyken advises.<br />
41/ Selling<br />
Sue Barrett reminds retailers<br />
how to think like buyers.<br />
42/ Management<br />
David Geller shares strategies<br />
to reduce internal theft.<br />
43/ Marketing<br />
Coupons are an easy way to<br />
boost sales, Brian Ewing states.<br />
44/ Logged On<br />
Simon Dell divulges how to cherry<br />
pick the right social media posts.<br />
In earshot<br />
Sneak peek<br />
+ +<br />
Group love<br />
About the front cover:<br />
Earrings are enjoying huge<br />
popularity in the fashion sector,<br />
and have seen the return of<br />
bold statement pieces.<br />
<strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 5
VITAL<br />
Wales Corner, Suite 1204<br />
227 Collins Street<br />
Melbourne Victoria 3000<br />
Australia<br />
Ph: (03) 9639 1008<br />
Fax: (03) 9639 0179<br />
sales@vitaldiamonds.com.au<br />
www.vitaldiamonds.com.au<br />
Over 35 Years Experience In Diamond Manufacturing & Wholesaling
AUSTRALIA WIDE 1300 886 108<br />
palloys.com.au<br />
Sydney | Melbourne | Brisbane | Perth
EDITORIAL<br />
BUT HANG ON…<br />
Traditional retail is in a confusing state. Indeed,<br />
in some cases, it’s just plain contradictory, and<br />
not just in the local market.<br />
Take, for example, recent news that retail<br />
behemoth Toys ‘R’ Us will close another<br />
200 stores, which comes on the back of an<br />
announcement in September 2017 to<br />
close 180 stores after the company went<br />
into bankruptcy.<br />
At the time, the US toy chain operated 1,600<br />
stores, half of which were in the US. Most<br />
stores and territories outside the US are run on<br />
licensing arrangements and not affected by<br />
the US bankruptcy; there are 39 in Australia.<br />
Many reasons have been given about<br />
the demise of this once-powerful retail<br />
brand but the main factors appear to be<br />
management’s decision to take the company<br />
private in 2005 and the subsequent growth<br />
of online shopping.<br />
People prefer the convenience of shopping<br />
online, so the experts say, but hang on… this<br />
doesn’t explain the rise in new bricks-andmortar<br />
stores around the world – and we are<br />
not just talking about single-store operations.<br />
For example, as Toys ‘R’ Us closed stores,<br />
Chinese fashion retailer Inman effectively<br />
abandoned its online-only model to open<br />
450 traditional retail outlets!<br />
Why the change in business model? When<br />
Inman started in Alibaba’s Tmall in 2008, the<br />
retailer quickly became one of its flagship<br />
brands yet while Inman’s online sales<br />
increased by 39 per cent last year, sales in its<br />
bricks-and-mortar stores rose by 300 per cent.<br />
But hang on… don’t people prefer the<br />
convenience of shopping online and<br />
home delivery?<br />
When Inman’s founder Fang Jianhua first<br />
announced the change in business strategy,<br />
he was widely criticised – many analysts<br />
predicted the plan was doomed – but even<br />
Amazon, the world leader in online shopping,<br />
has opened physical stores: clicks-to-bricks.<br />
There are plenty of other examples of<br />
online-only retailers opening traditional<br />
stores including eyeglass seller Warby Parker,<br />
cosmetics company Birchbox and men’s<br />
clothing store Bonobos.<br />
The decision for ‘e-tailers’ to go traditional<br />
is generally dependent on which product<br />
category they occupy and, yes, the jewellery<br />
industry has its own examples.<br />
In February 2015, we reported on the<br />
increasing importance of multi-channel<br />
retailing when online diamond and jewellery<br />
business Blue Nile announced plans to open<br />
a bricks-and-mortar store. The company was<br />
founded in 1999 as an online-only diamond<br />
retailer and was acquired by a private investor<br />
group last year.<br />
Blue Nile now operates five webrooms – as it<br />
calls its US physical outlets – each averaging<br />
500 to 700 square feet and each with large TV<br />
screens mounted on the walls that display<br />
social media posts from customers. In store,<br />
shoppers can view and try about 400 pieces<br />
of jewellery.<br />
According to various retail experts, online<br />
shopping in Australia only accounts for<br />
I BELIEVE<br />
THAT THE<br />
PERCENTAGE<br />
OF JEWELLERY<br />
BOUGHT<br />
ONLINE IS<br />
INSIGNIFICANT<br />
WHEN<br />
COMPARED<br />
TO OTHER<br />
CONSUMER<br />
CATEGORIES<br />
around 7 per cent of the total retail market.<br />
No one knows how much of that spend<br />
equates to jewellery and watches and I<br />
doubt it’s significant.<br />
Indeed, at the same time Toys ‘R’ Us and Inman<br />
were announcing plans to close and open<br />
more stores respectively, a report emerged on<br />
Amazon’s new Australian operation. It detailed<br />
the popular product categories since Amazon<br />
started trading just before Christmas last year.<br />
Interestingly, jewellery was not among<br />
them. Electronics, men’s and women’s<br />
clothing, health and beauty, home and<br />
kitchen and other products all featured<br />
prominently but not jewellery.<br />
I believe that the percentage of jewellery<br />
bought online is insignificant when<br />
compared to other consumer categories<br />
and I would hazard a guess people who<br />
buy jewellery online are probably not your<br />
customers anyway.<br />
But hang on… this is not a reason for jewellers<br />
to become complacent. The battle between<br />
the online and traditional sectors appears far<br />
from won, which is why traditional jewellers<br />
should be pushing harder than ever to<br />
strengthen their positions in the market.<br />
One way to do this could be as part of a<br />
larger collective. After all, there’s always been<br />
strength in numbers.<br />
Turn to our biennial Buying Group Report on<br />
page 23 for more about that.<br />
Coleby Nicholson<br />
Editor<br />
<strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 9
UPFRONT<br />
“Buy the best<br />
quality that<br />
you can afford<br />
from a qualified<br />
jeweller you<br />
trust or has been<br />
recommended to<br />
you – and follow<br />
your heart!”<br />
What advice would you give your customer?<br />
MICHAEL ALBRECHT,<br />
MICHAEL ALBRECHT<br />
JEWELLERY<br />
BULLETIN BOARD<br />
n JEWELLERY BYTES<br />
Computer company Dell has<br />
announced it has launched a recycled<br />
gold jewellery collection. The limited<br />
edition collection is sourced from gold<br />
recovered from recycled computer<br />
parts and includes 14 and 18-carat<br />
rings, earrings and cufflinks.<br />
n READY, SET, ASSEMBLE<br />
International beauty and fashion brand<br />
Goop found some serious success<br />
when it categorised its in-store offering<br />
into unique categories such as ‘Under<br />
18’, ‘The Traveller’ and ‘Ridiculous but<br />
Awesome.’ <strong>Jeweller</strong>y retailers could use<br />
this for inspiration and do the same<br />
with their available stock – additional<br />
ideas include ‘Men’, ‘Summer Holiday’<br />
and ‘Date Night’.<br />
n BEJEWELLED TREATS<br />
One retailer cooked up an inventive<br />
way to promote its customised<br />
jewellery offering – selling baked<br />
goods adorned with pearls, diamonds<br />
and sapphires. Retailers could adapt<br />
this idea on a smaller scale for annual<br />
events such as Valentines Day or<br />
Mothers Day. Now that’s some serious<br />
food for thought!<br />
“Don’t bring<br />
mum when<br />
trying to design<br />
your future wife’s<br />
(or your own)<br />
engagement ring.<br />
More often than<br />
not, she’ll make it<br />
even harder.<br />
Sorry mum!”<br />
DIGITAL<br />
BRAINWAVE<br />
LANI WILLIAMS,<br />
WINDFALL JEWELLERY<br />
“Make sure you<br />
drop into the store<br />
once or twice a<br />
year to have your<br />
jewellery cleaned,<br />
checked and to<br />
say hello.”<br />
TONY SOFOULIS,<br />
VILLAGE JEWELLERS<br />
STORY TIME<br />
Say hello to Instagram’s newest features: Stories<br />
Highlights and Stories Archive. Retailers who<br />
use Instagram Stories to post behind the scenes<br />
snippets or to introduce new offerings would be<br />
well advised to take advantage of these new tools,<br />
which allow users to hold on to their fleeting stories<br />
more permanently. Stories Highlights are still stories that disappear after 24 hours;<br />
however, they will now reside permanently on retailer’s profiles, meaning there’s<br />
even more opportunities for consumers to respond and interact. Every story will now<br />
also be automatically saved to Stories Archive, where retailers can also file posts away<br />
for later use. Story time has never been better.<br />
TOP PRODUCT<br />
Love In A Jewel’s 9-carat gold pendant<br />
features a special compartment for storing<br />
a precious memory. It features 26 brilliant<br />
cut diamonds and is available in white gold<br />
and sterling silver. The piece was the most<br />
popular product last month ranked by<br />
views at jewellermagazine.com.<br />
VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN<br />
JEWELLERY INDUSTRY<br />
jewellermagazine.com<br />
Managing Editor<br />
Coleby Nicholson<br />
Assistant Editor<br />
Alex Eugene<br />
alex.eugene@jewellermagazine.com<br />
Journalist<br />
Talia Paz<br />
talia.paz@gunnamattamedia.com<br />
Advertising Manager<br />
Gary Collins<br />
gary.collins@jewellermagazine.com<br />
Digital Manager<br />
Angela Han<br />
angela.han@gunnamattamedia.com<br />
Production Manager<br />
& Graphic Design<br />
Jo De Bono<br />
art@gunnamattamedia.com<br />
Accounts<br />
Paul Blewitt<br />
accounts@gunnamattamedia.com<br />
Subscriptions<br />
info@jewellermagazine.com<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong> is published by:<br />
Gunnamatta Media Pty Ltd<br />
Locked Bag 26, South Melbourne,<br />
VIC 3205 AUSTRALIA<br />
ABN 64 930 790 434<br />
Phone: +61 3 9696 7200<br />
Fax: +61 3 9696 8313<br />
info@gunnamattamedia.com<br />
Copyright: All material appearing<br />
in <strong>Jeweller</strong> is subject to copyright.<br />
Reproduction in whole or in part is<br />
strictly forbidden without prior written<br />
consent of the publisher.<br />
Gunnamatta Media Pty Ltd strives to<br />
report accurately and fairly and it is<br />
our policy to correct significant errors<br />
of fact and misleading statements in<br />
the next available issue. All statements<br />
made, although based on information<br />
believed to be reliable and accurate at<br />
the time, cannot be guaranteed and<br />
no fault or liability can be accepted<br />
for error or omission. Any comment<br />
relating to subjective opinions should<br />
be addressed to the editor.<br />
Advertising: The publisher reserves<br />
the right to omit or alter any<br />
advertisement to comply with<br />
Australian law and the advertiser<br />
agrees to indemnify the publisher for<br />
all damages or liabilities arising from<br />
the published material.<br />
10 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong>
NEWS<br />
NEWS<br />
“Best ever” buying group conference<br />
Industry initiatives, business solutions for the<br />
‘new normal’ environment and the launch of<br />
an international diamond brand were all on<br />
the agenda at Nationwide <strong>Jeweller</strong>’s recent<br />
annual conference.<br />
The buying group’s <strong>2018</strong> Time Out<br />
conference, held from February 9-11, drew<br />
around 150 attendees who represented 80<br />
stores across Australia and New Zealand.<br />
Managing director Colin Pocklington said<br />
feedback was that it had been one of<br />
Nationwide’s “best ever” events.<br />
“We were pleasantly surprised, but<br />
somewhat shocked by the success of our<br />
buying day,” Pocklington said. “All of the<br />
content was structured around our five<br />
strategies – with 21 action points – for<br />
members to prosper in <strong>2018</strong> and beyond.<br />
“A few suppliers said it was the best ever. We<br />
will have a better idea in about a week when<br />
we collate the order totals,” he added.<br />
Despite the current ‘flat’ conditions of the<br />
industry, Pocklington offered pragmatic but<br />
positive advice for jewellers.<br />
“I presented an analysis showing that the<br />
difference between doing nothing, and<br />
implementing [our business strategies]<br />
could be a sales increase of up to 85 per<br />
cent. It sounds a lot, but one action alone<br />
makes a 14 to 18 per cent difference.”<br />
Local horse inspired jewellery<br />
In a move expected to provide a point of<br />
difference in the local market, New Zealand<br />
supplier Fabuleux Vous has collaborated<br />
with two renowned equestrians on a<br />
jewellery range inspired by horses,<br />
Greg Smith and Corey Miln. The collection<br />
is named ‘Breeze’ after a champion<br />
racing horse.<br />
NATIONWIDE FEBRUARY CONFERENCE: “BEST EVER”<br />
The founder of Indian diamond brand Divine<br />
Solitaires, Jignesh Mehta also flew in for<br />
the conference to present diamond and<br />
marketing support material to members.<br />
11 orders were placed by members after<br />
the presentation “on the spot” and more are<br />
expected to be received shortly.<br />
Apple Watch<br />
outperforms<br />
Swiss industry<br />
According to a report from research<br />
company International Data Corporation<br />
(IDC), Apple sold more watches than the<br />
entire Swiss watch industry in the fourth<br />
quarter of 2017.<br />
While the Swiss Watch Industry (SWI)<br />
reported 6.8 million units sold between<br />
October – December, Apple’s global<br />
smartwatch shipments reached<br />
approximately 8 million units.<br />
While figures are only estimates as<br />
Apple does not report quarterly unit<br />
sales and the SWI does not include sales<br />
of watches within Switzerland, Apple’s<br />
increased watch sales have been largely<br />
attributed to the release of its third<br />
version of its Apple Watch, which began<br />
shipping in late September 2017.<br />
Francisco Jeronimo, research director<br />
at IDC European Mobile Devices, was<br />
reported as stating the figures showed<br />
Apple was starting to “increase its<br />
dominance” over the watch industry.<br />
“Even if people prefer the look of<br />
mechanical or quartz watches, Apple<br />
could easily switch into that market<br />
with hybrid models that look like Swiss<br />
watches, but talk to smartphones,” he<br />
added.<br />
“There is always a spike in Q4 that<br />
cannot be sustained throughout the<br />
year. [However], other industries made<br />
the mistake of ignoring this sort of threat<br />
for too long,” Jeronimo added.<br />
The International Data Corporation is a<br />
global advisor on market intelligence<br />
and consumer technology markets. It is<br />
headquartered in Boston and has offices<br />
across Europe, America and Asia-Pacific.<br />
“I have known Greg and Corey for more than<br />
12 months now and [the partnership] came<br />
up in conversation due to Greg’s strong<br />
fashion background,” Fabuleux Vous director<br />
Director Helen Thompson-Carter said.<br />
The Breeze collection consists of pieces<br />
for men and women and is crafted from<br />
925 sterling silver. Items include necklaces,<br />
pendants, cuff links, tie slides, stud earrings<br />
and disc charm bracelets.<br />
The collection will be available through<br />
FIRST VIEW: FABULEUX VOUS BREEZE COLLECTION<br />
Fabuleux Vous, select equine retailers,<br />
and Smith and Miln’s joint business GC<br />
Equestrian from 15 <strong>March</strong>.<br />
The collection will be launched at New<br />
Zealand’s renowned equestrian event ‘Horse<br />
of the Year’ which runs from 13 – 18 <strong>March</strong>.<br />
+ MORE BREAKING NEWS<br />
JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM<br />
APPLE CHALLENGES SWISS MADE WATCHES<br />
<strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 11
NEWS<br />
TW Steel motorsport deal extended<br />
Dutch watch brand TW Steel and Australia’s<br />
Red Bull Holden Racing Team’s ongoing<br />
collaboration has resulted in the launch of a<br />
new limited edition timepiece.<br />
Phil Edwards, managing director of TW<br />
Steel’s local supplier Duraflex Group Australia<br />
(DGA), confirmed a new Red Bull Holden<br />
Racing Team Limited Edition watch would<br />
be released this month.<br />
“Retailers have capitalised on the<br />
dynamic brand alignment between the<br />
Red Bull Holden Racing Team and TW Steel.<br />
The power and influence of the Red Bull<br />
logo drives foot traffic and in turn, sales,”<br />
Edwards said.<br />
“Retailers have had the opportunity to<br />
leverage this partnership and the reach<br />
– of both the Red Bull and Holden/Supercars<br />
Perth Mint to launch cryptocurrency<br />
The Perth Mint has announced it is<br />
developing its own cryptocurrency that will<br />
be backed by precious metals.<br />
According to reports, Perth Mint chief<br />
executive officer Richard Hayes said that the<br />
prospect of offering a ‘crypto-gold’ product<br />
was most likely a “world first”.<br />
“With a crypto-gold or a crypto-precious<br />
metals offering, what you will see is that<br />
gold is actually backing it,” Hayes said.<br />
“It will have all the benefits of something<br />
that is on a distributed ledger that settles<br />
Olivia Burton gets physical<br />
UK jewellery brand Olivia Burton will open<br />
its first store six years after launching as an<br />
online watch retailer.<br />
The venture is said to be a positive sign of<br />
an online jewellery business moving into<br />
bricks-and-mortar, despite tough retail<br />
trading conditions.<br />
Olivia Burton is distributed by West End<br />
Collection in Australia and New Zealand<br />
and is stocked by Selfridges, Topshop, David<br />
Jones and Myer.<br />
Lesa Bennett and Jemma Fennings founded<br />
Olivia Burton in 2012. After its launch,<br />
the brand expanded into wholesale and<br />
brands – to tap into a new and lucrative<br />
customer segment and capitalise on<br />
the hot demand for merchandise and<br />
limited products.”<br />
The new Limited Edition watch was<br />
scheduled to be launched in time for the<br />
opening round of the annual Adelaide<br />
500 motor racing event .<br />
very quickly, that is easy to trade, but is<br />
backed by precious metals so there is<br />
actually something behind it.”<br />
Hayes said a date for the launch of the<br />
crypto-gold product had not yet been<br />
confirmed, but he expected “significant<br />
movement” in the next twelve to<br />
eighteen months.<br />
Established in 1899, The Perth Mint is<br />
Australia’s only gold and silver facility<br />
accredited by the London Bullion<br />
Market Association.<br />
introduced jewellery to its portfolio. Its<br />
watch offering, which comprises Miyota<br />
quartz movements, stainless steel and<br />
leather straps, is available in 27 countries.<br />
+ MORE BREAKING NEWS<br />
JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM<br />
IN BRIEF<br />
*<br />
BLING ON THE MENU<br />
McDonalds have commissioned<br />
international jewellery designer Nadine<br />
Ghosn to create a burger ring dubbed<br />
the ‘Bling Mac’. The stackable ring<br />
features an 18k gold bun and white<br />
diamond sesame seeds, plus other<br />
precious gems representing the meat<br />
patty, lettuce, cheese and special sauce.<br />
The ring is reportedly valued at over<br />
AU$15,000 and will be given away to one<br />
lucky Twitter winner.<br />
*<br />
BASELWORLD LOSES BROADS<br />
Watch brand Breitling will remove<br />
provocatively dressed women from<br />
its Baselworld pop art display. Chief<br />
executive George Kern recently told<br />
Swiss newspaper SonntagsZeitung that<br />
such depictions of women “were no<br />
longer suitable and do not reflect<br />
values of today’s society.”<br />
*<br />
RARE DIAMOND COIN RELEASED<br />
The Perth Mint has revealed an 18-carat<br />
gold coin with fancy coloured pink<br />
diamonds. The ‘Jewelled Phoenix’ was<br />
crafted from 99.9 per cent pure gold and<br />
inset with 1.22 carats of rare, natural fancy<br />
pink diamonds from the Argyle diamond<br />
mine, Western Australia. Featuring a<br />
flowering paulownia tree and priced at<br />
$188,000, only eight coins exist, making<br />
it one of the rarest collectible coins in the<br />
world. Manager of minted products Neil<br />
Vance told ABC News: ““The phoenix is<br />
meant to bring happiness and prosperity,<br />
so from that point of view it’s very<br />
popular in Chinese culture.”<br />
*<br />
UNIQUE DIAMOND ON DISPLAY<br />
A 102.34-carat white diamond<br />
described as one of the world’s most<br />
“extraordinarily rare” stones was recently<br />
put on public display in London by<br />
Sotheby’s. According to the auction<br />
house, the D colour, flawless, round<br />
brilliant-cut diamond – which will be<br />
available for private purchase only – is<br />
said to be the only known round brilliant<br />
cut diamond over 100 carats that is<br />
‘perfect’ in colour, clarity and cut.<br />
12 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong>
EARRINGS<br />
The<br />
BOLD<br />
and the<br />
beautiful<br />
WHEN IT COMES TO EARRINGS<br />
THIS SEASON, IT’S SIMPLE:<br />
THE BIGGER, THE BETTER.<br />
ALEX EUGENE REPORTS.<br />
he age of statement jewellery is back: because for today’s styleconscious<br />
consumer, standing out from the crowd is essential.<br />
When it comes to the most-wearable piece, earrings win handsdown.<br />
Whether feminine, masculine or androgynous, adults and<br />
teenagers of both genders all use earrings to set off their outfits. There’s just<br />
something about them that’s perfect for everyone.<br />
This makes earrings a retailer’s best weapon in terms of sales. After all,<br />
earrings have proven through the centuries to be some of the most<br />
enduring accessories.<br />
“Scatter pins and earrings, charm bracelets and necklaces were worn daily<br />
in the twentieth century,” journalist Maureen Zambito wrote in January for<br />
online news site The Intelligencer. “By the 1960s, fashion had changed and<br />
trends brought less-ladylike looks and a hippie, mod fashion… but still<br />
earrings were important.”<br />
WHAT’S OLD IS NEW: A COMEBACK<br />
In the 1960s, English model Twiggy was turning heads by pairing loud outfits<br />
with enormous plastic earrings. In the 1970s, David Bowie’s bedazzling<br />
outfits often included bright, dangly earrings – both pairs and singles. In the<br />
1980s, pop icons Madonna, Prince and George Michael were just a few to<br />
continue the trend.<br />
The vintage look is now well and truly mainstream. Today’s jewellery<br />
designers are re-working styles from all the major fashion eras and earrings<br />
are no exception.<br />
“We’ve seen a major trend in statement earrings for the past year or so and<br />
that seems to be strong for the coming year as well,” says Nina Agerskov<br />
Myrlund, communications manager at Dryberg/Kern, a brand carried by<br />
Australian supplier JLM.<br />
According to Myrlund, the trend for wearing a silver earring in one ear and<br />
gold in the other is increasing, while Cheryle Roberts, managing director of<br />
supplier Stones & Silver, says hoop earrings – both small and large – have<br />
been the brand’s best-selling category at recent trade shows.<br />
“It looks like the 1980s disco era is making a comeback and it’s even stronger<br />
for <strong>2018</strong>,” Roberts notes.<br />
Chloe Sandland, marketing manager at Buckley London, believes that<br />
designs have become more “daring”, with large, colourful statement earrings<br />
hitting mainstream fashion.<br />
“Chain and tassel drop earrings, oversized hoops and mismatched styles<br />
have all recently been introduced to the high street,” Sandland says, adding,<br />
“Our Autumn/Winter <strong>2018</strong> collections feature earrings with mixed shapes,<br />
multiple settings and a focus on drop styles.”<br />
<strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 13
®<br />
TONES & SILVER<br />
WHOLESALERS OF QUALITY JEWELLERY<br />
ESTABLISHED & TRUSTED SINCE 2003<br />
JLM<br />
FABULEUX VOUS<br />
Ph: +61 3 9587 1215<br />
Email: info@stonesandsilver.com.au<br />
Helen Thompson-Carter, director of Fabuleux<br />
Vous also agrees that the trend to wear one<br />
short and one long earring is currently in<br />
vogue, having gathered momentum in the<br />
past six months.<br />
“Earrings are going to be big – in size,<br />
statement, and a dare-to-be-different quality,”<br />
she says. “Colour is in!”<br />
Brisbane-based gem dealer Charles Lawson<br />
also says he has seen designers creating “twin<br />
earrings where each earring is matched in<br />
style but not identical to the other”.<br />
“In the fashion side of things, there are a lot<br />
of colourful tassel earrings coming through,”<br />
he says. “This trend can be translated to fine<br />
jewellery easily by using a top stone in bright<br />
coloured gems with interesting shapes like<br />
flat-cut ruby, rough shards of tourmaline and<br />
tassels made using fine chain.”<br />
Lawson also believes the trends will translate<br />
to the local market: “I am most excited to see<br />
many different coloured stones used together<br />
to create stunning designs. These often use<br />
opal as a centre stone.”<br />
According to Pastiche director Amy Bradley,<br />
top sellers over summer for the supplier<br />
have been “large, fine hoops with interesting<br />
details, as well as our tassel earrings in<br />
various colours”.<br />
The rapidly-expanding penchant for<br />
layering is also allowing consumers to wear<br />
earrings of different styles all at once. “As the<br />
jewellery-layering trend continues to grow,<br />
we’re expecting petite hoops that can be<br />
easily paired with other pieces to be big for<br />
<strong>2018</strong>,” explains Jemma Fennings, co-founder<br />
of London-based line Olivia Burton. “We’ve<br />
also responded to the trend for multiple ear<br />
piercings with a new line of teeny-tiny hoops.”<br />
If all these crazy trends sound out of<br />
alignment with fine jewellery, think again.<br />
TRENDING: THE FASHIONABLE RETURN<br />
OF FINE JEWELLERY<br />
While fashion trends change like the wind,<br />
precious metals and stones last a lifetime.<br />
This is one reason why fine jewellery<br />
becomes sentimental and treasured, while<br />
fashion jewellery is considered seasonal and<br />
somewhat disposable.<br />
The lines have blurred between fashion and<br />
fine jewellery in recent years, as suppliers<br />
from both sectors incorporate different<br />
materials and styles in a bid to occupy the<br />
upper middle market.<br />
Fine jewellery is also increasingly seen in a<br />
fashion context as celebrities and fashion<br />
influencers turn towards bespoke statement<br />
pieces, like Hollywood style icon Elizabeth<br />
Taylor before them in the extravagant 1950s.<br />
Last month, music and fashion goddess<br />
Beyoncé made a gob-smacking appearance<br />
at the Grammy Awards. Dressed all in black,<br />
the pop star rocked a pair of 70-carat,<br />
diamond and titanium drop earrings<br />
designed by Lorraine Schwartz valued at over<br />
$US6 million ($AU7.6 m).<br />
Cue what has been dubbed “the fashionable<br />
return of fine jewellery” by style gurus<br />
around the world. No longer considered only<br />
appropriate for formal occasions, precious<br />
pieces are reclaiming runways across the US<br />
and Europe, and Australia is set to follow.
EARRINGS<br />
Consequently, jewellery retailers now have customers asking for the<br />
best of both worlds.<br />
“We’ve seen that consumers are looking to regularly update their<br />
jewellery box with quality pieces that will stand the test of time,”<br />
Fennings says.<br />
Yellow gold, historically the domain of mature markets and high-end<br />
pieces, has also now become a hot item for the young.<br />
Bradley agrees: “Yellow gold is definitely on the rise; it has made a<br />
smooth transition from traditional jewellery items like heirlooms and<br />
wedding bands into the fashion jewellery market.”<br />
In response, Pastiche’s youth brand Dear Addison recently launched<br />
the Sunshine Collection, themed around “sweet and delicate yellow<br />
gold-plated pieces”.<br />
THE YOUNG ONES<br />
Beyonce’s red-carpet appearance is important because she’s a hero<br />
for Millennials, Gen Y and even the upcoming ‘iGen’ age group. Young<br />
consumers want what celebrities have.<br />
“It’s all about social media these days. The Millennials find inspiration<br />
online by looking to influencers that they relate to,” Myrlund explains.<br />
“It’s peer-review golden days and in order to reach the younger<br />
generations, we need to meet them on their ground – Instagram,<br />
Facebook, and Pinterest.”<br />
Fennings says that Olivia Burton has a “particularly loyal, active<br />
following on Instagram”, and that engaging customers in online<br />
conversations about new products has boosted sales. However,<br />
Thompson-Carter points out that those same generations want<br />
a lower price point, holding “no sentimental value or emotional<br />
connection to the pieces purchased”.<br />
“Looking good is what is important,” she explains. “Social-media<br />
platforms with quality imagery, brand association and influencers’<br />
choices are important to this group.”<br />
So while Beyonce’s million-dollar diamond earrings are the desired<br />
look, jewellery designers must strike the right balance between<br />
materials and price.<br />
“The demand for bigger styles can put an added pressure on suppliers,<br />
and consequently retailers, to maintain competitive prices,” Bradley<br />
says, adding that Pastiche is using stainless steel to address the<br />
demand for earrings in prestige styles at affordable prices. “Producing<br />
STONES & SILVER<br />
TIMESUPPLY<br />
Exclusive Distributor<br />
Australia, New Zealand & Fiji<br />
info@jlminternational.com.au<br />
AU: +61 9247 8249
PASTICHE<br />
STONES & SILVER<br />
the bigger styles in stainless steel allows us to deliver on size with a<br />
desirable price tag.”<br />
The brand is also experiencing success with single earrings.<br />
“We have definitely seen a growth in our earring sales and have<br />
increased our offering, developing many more designs that are<br />
standalone rather than simply part of a set,” she adds.<br />
Sandland also points to single earrings as a practical way of lowering<br />
price points for consumers.<br />
“Two-part earrings and earrings that can be worn multiple ways were<br />
recently introduced to the Buckley London range and we see this<br />
trend continuing into <strong>2018</strong>,” she explains. “These earrings offer great<br />
value for money, giving the wearer numerous styles in one product.”<br />
If satisfying the demand for fine jewellery wasn’t challenging enough,<br />
Lawson says younger clients are also keen to own custom-made<br />
jewellery, but of course at affordable prices.<br />
“They don’t want to spend too much so [they choose] a pair of<br />
calibrated-size citrine stones or some Australian opal free-forms,” he<br />
says. “They are also more open to using the rough gemstone material.”<br />
Myrlund says the rise of lower-end chain stores, which are able to<br />
meet market demand with demi-fine and imitation precious jewellery,<br />
present a welcome challenge. “Giants such as H&M and Zara will retail<br />
a pair of statement earrings at almost one-tenth of our price,” she says.<br />
“The quality is, of course, incomparable to ours; however, it pushes us<br />
to perform our best in metrics such as branding, production, design<br />
and marketing – [the chains] keep us at the top of our game.”<br />
Inevitably, as fine jewellery becomes more accessible – or at least the<br />
look of fine jewellery – the view of when and how it should be worn is<br />
changing also.<br />
ACCESSORIES WITH BLING<br />
In <strong>2018</strong>, it’s normal to dress for the beach but accessorise for a grand<br />
ball. Whether it’s denim and diamonds, or cotton t-shirts and gold –<br />
there’s no limit on using fine jewellery to complement loose, lazy looks.<br />
Anissa Kermiche, jeweller and fashion editor of WhoWhatWear.com<br />
wrote in December 2017 that her single Mobile Doré Earring – made<br />
with 18-carat yellow gold and a freshwater pearl – would be “perfect<br />
with jeans and a t-shirt”.<br />
Sandland says Buckley London has also seen demand for earrings that
EARRINGS<br />
suit various dress styles both as singles and in pairs. “Although larger<br />
statement earrings have been a major fashion trend, we have also<br />
seen a rise in sales of our more classic and simple earring styles,” she<br />
explains. “This shows that there is still a demand for earrings that can<br />
be worn every day and for any occasion.”<br />
AROUND THE WORLD<br />
In the fashion world, it’s common knowledge that what is seen in<br />
Europe and the US will hit Australia within two to four years. With that<br />
in mind, Australian designers are planning accordingly.<br />
“We always have very exciting releases of on-trend jewellery,<br />
sometimes well ahead of consumer demand,” Roberts says. “For<br />
example, our black rhodium-plated products have started very strong<br />
in <strong>2018</strong>, even though we released them in early 2017 with little interest<br />
at that time.<br />
“Large hoops, statement pieces, rose gold-plated earrings and filigree<br />
designs are still increasing in popularity. Very few are after the small<br />
and dainty traditional earring this year,” she adds.<br />
Notably, and in direct opposition to this statement, Fennings<br />
commented recently about their mostly UK-based customers: “We’ve<br />
noticed a shift away from statement jewellery towards micro styles.<br />
Our collections are characterised by delicate proportions so it’s really<br />
exciting to see people are falling for daintier pieces.”<br />
For Bradley, a seamless combination of trend and taste is paramount.<br />
“We are always watching trends around the world,” she says. “Our<br />
design team is mindful to consider and align with new trends during<br />
their design process, but in a way that is distinctly Pastiche and caters<br />
to our loyal fan base.”<br />
Over at Fabuleux Vous, Thompson-Carter says, “We follow what is<br />
happening globally – especially Europe and the US – and try to stay as<br />
far ahead of the game as we can. Because we work with some brilliant<br />
suppliers, we are well positioned to bring new and interesting quality<br />
designs to the market.”<br />
Even as a gem dealer, Lawson admits that fashion is equally important<br />
to his business.<br />
“I do need to keep stock of the next big trend. With the Pantone<br />
colour of the year being violet, I<br />
have acquired some beautiful purple<br />
and violet gems such as amethyst,<br />
garnet and sapphire to meet the<br />
demand,” he says.<br />
As fine jewellery and mainstream<br />
fashion collide again in <strong>2018</strong>, rising<br />
demand for statement pieces<br />
means jewellers can expect a larger<br />
demographic of shoppers.<br />
Whether consumers are young<br />
or old, big spenders or frugal, earrings<br />
are on the must-have<br />
list for all of them. i<br />
JLM
SNEAK PEEK<br />
It’s a<br />
sneak<br />
peek<br />
WITH <strong>2018</strong> IN FULL SWING, MANY RETAILERS HAVE<br />
BEEN WAITING WITH BATED BREATH FOR THE NEWEST<br />
JEWELLERY RELEASES. NOW, JEWELLER HAS ROUNDED<br />
UP AN EXCLUSIVE SNEAK PEEK OF WHAT’S SOON TO<br />
HIT THE MARKET – SO EXCLUSIVE, IN FACT, THAT SOME<br />
ARE STILL AT SKETCH LEVEL. FEAST YOUR EYES…<br />
Allure South Sea Pearls<br />
This exclusive sketch is the first view of a collection that<br />
highlights the contrast between nature’s elements. The<br />
pictured piece is 18-carat white gold, with round brilliant cut<br />
white diamonds and Australian South Sea pearls.<br />
Bolt International<br />
Named after one of the country’s most popular<br />
beaches, Bausele Australia’s latest creation ‘Noosa’<br />
encases grains of sand from Whitehaven beach<br />
to keep with you forever. Swiss made, and<br />
50m water resistant.<br />
Couture Kingdom<br />
Created to mark Disney’s 90th birthday, Couture Kingdom<br />
presents the Mickey Mouse Limited Edition Collectable<br />
series, to be released in October.<br />
18 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong>
Silver Fusion<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />
Cudworth<br />
This bracelet from Tateossian London features<br />
frosted striped agate stone and wood beads<br />
combined, finished off with highly polished<br />
sterling silver gear sticks in the centre.<br />
Stunning European 925 sterling silver<br />
jewellery now available in Australia & NZ<br />
Daniel Bentley<br />
Borne from a decade’s worth of Danish architecture<br />
experience, each hand crafted Daniel Bentley piece reflects<br />
Bentley’s fascination with Danish design. With sharp edges<br />
and a striking contrast of brushed and polished surfaces, the<br />
new ‘Tribute’ collection is sleek and modern.<br />
Norwegian<br />
Children’s<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />
Fabuleux Vous<br />
Created to capture the essence of love, ‘the Heart<br />
series’ features delicate sterling silver pendants for<br />
earrings and necklaces and is available now.<br />
Tahitian Pearls<br />
AUSTRALIA<br />
Heart & Grace<br />
Designed to expand on their bracelet<br />
range that was released in December<br />
2017, these pieces are pending release.<br />
Pictured are the Essentielle rose gold<br />
double chains petite hexagon necklace,<br />
and the Idylle rose gold marble hexagon<br />
pendant necklace.<br />
South Sea cultured black<br />
pearls from the pristine<br />
waters of Tahiti<br />
no minimum orders or online sales<br />
vibekehenriksen@hotmail.com<br />
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<strong>Jeweller</strong>y Findings<br />
for Repairs &<br />
New Creations<br />
Dryberg/Kern – JLM<br />
The ‘Alecia earpost’ stud sets are also available in yellow<br />
gold or rose gold. They come adorned with multiple facet<br />
crystals and logo design.<br />
Les Georgettes<br />
Shop<br />
Now<br />
From the Les Précieuses collection, the<br />
bestselling ‘Girafe’ design bracelet is patent<br />
yellow leather and bluestone, with a gold<br />
finish and a touch of sparkle. 40mm length,<br />
and available from this month.<br />
Nikki Lissoni – Duraflex<br />
Nikki Lissoni is an interchangeable collection that “allows<br />
your jewellery to be a true extension of how you feel”.<br />
Each piece is designed by Dutch and Thai designers and<br />
is precision cast and hand-finished. This piece is from<br />
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Nomination<br />
From the new Silver Enamel collection released last month, these brightly coloured links<br />
are available for their personalised, composable bracelets. Distributed by Timesupply.
Oozoo<br />
From Pernille Croydon <strong>Jeweller</strong>y, Denmark,<br />
the new North Collection comprises the<br />
‘Glacier’ necklace inspired by the natural<br />
beauty of Iceland, the piece is 18-carat gold<br />
plated sterling sliver, with blue milk glass.<br />
Osjag<br />
From Breuning, Germany comes the Pure Elegance<br />
collection. This 9-carat gold ring includes black diamonds,<br />
and is also available in 14 and 18-carat gold, with a choice<br />
of rose, yellow or white gold.<br />
Pastiche<br />
The new Dusk to Dawn Collection for Autumn/Winter, released<br />
in January by Pastiche is “inspired by light and shade, and the<br />
beauty of the moments between”. Pictured is the rising sun set,<br />
made from stainless steel in a warm rose gold.<br />
Pink Kimberley – Sams Group<br />
These Kimberley Rosala, Soiree and Prose rings feature superb fancy cut<br />
Argyle pink diamonds that are surrounded by a double halo of white<br />
and Argyle pink diamonds. Crafted in 18-carat rose and white gold.<br />
Seiko<br />
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of the Grand Seiko 9F<br />
quartz caliber watch, a commemorative collection of<br />
just 1,500 pieces will be released in April. Pictured is the<br />
second commemorative edition with 18-carat gold bezel.
Shriro<br />
Landing at the end of this month, the GST400-1A9 is shock<br />
and magnetic resistant, features LED lights and world time,<br />
and is crafted from stainless steel.<br />
Stones & Silver<br />
This round filigree necklace is 925-carat sterling silver,<br />
with rose gold plating and comes with a 45cm+5cm<br />
extension necklace. Matching earrings are also available.<br />
Tahitian Pearls<br />
Featuring the beautiful colour of<br />
Tahitian pearls, this genuine silver ring is<br />
hand assembled in Australia.<br />
Thomas Sabo – Duraflex<br />
“Go, collect and celebrate life” – that’s the spirit of the<br />
new Generation Charm Club collection from Thomas<br />
Sabo. Featuring high quality hand crafted pieces, the new<br />
designs include vintage symbols, letters and talismans to<br />
allow the wearer a true expression of their uniqueness.<br />
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BUYING GROUPS<br />
Birds<br />
of a<br />
feather<br />
etail buying groups began as a way for<br />
different businesses to band together to<br />
source better prices and products as a<br />
collective. It was also was a way to gain<br />
a competitive edge over your rival however, in<br />
today’s digital age your ‘local competitor’ is just as<br />
likely to be overseas.<br />
Worse, small business owners now find themselves<br />
competing with international online giants as well<br />
as chain stores, which has meant that local retailers<br />
must continually innovate.<br />
In addition, the changing marketplace has meant<br />
that Australia’s three jewellery buying groups have<br />
had to refocus their strategies to accommodate<br />
shifting consumer shopping habits and, what<br />
many now call, the ‘new normal’ of retail trade.<br />
Has there ever been a greater need for birds of a<br />
feather to flock together?<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong>’s <strong>2018</strong> biennial Buying Group Report<br />
offers some answers. Read on …<br />
<strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 23
BUYING GROUPS<br />
Birds of a feather<br />
together<br />
stick<br />
THE CHALLENGES FOR BRICKS–AND–MORTAR RETAILERS ARE<br />
SHOWING NO SIGNS OF ABATING. ALEX EUGENE REPORTS ON WHY IT’S<br />
STILL A SMART MOVE FOR RETAILERS TO BELONG TO A BUYING GROUP.<br />
hallenging is the word Mike Dyer, sales manager Retail Edge uses to<br />
describe the current retail environment. When asked to expand, he laughs<br />
and calls it “bloody challenging”.<br />
“Having said that, January was reasonably good, enough for people to be<br />
noticeable,” Dyer says, adding that he intends to keep an eye on developments.<br />
Two years ago, when <strong>Jeweller</strong>’s last biennial buying-groups report was published,<br />
industry consensus was similar – a mixture of factors had combined to create “flat”<br />
retail trading conditions. These factors included rising rents in shopping centres,<br />
conservative spending habits of consumers and, inevitably, the growing impact of<br />
online shopping. All of these are still issues today, leading some industry analysts<br />
to dub flatter retail conditions as “the new normal”.<br />
“The new normal is the most significant challenge that most retailers will ever<br />
have faced,” says Colin Pocklington, managing director of Nationwide <strong>Jeweller</strong>s.<br />
“The changes in retail, particularly in discretionary spending, have been and will<br />
continue to be quite dramatic. In Australia, these changes have been exacerbated<br />
by a prolonged period of stagnant income growth and unemployment,” he adds.<br />
After interviewing the heads of all three major buying groups in Australia, one<br />
strong message comes through: in hard times, sticking together is essential.<br />
“We all need to work together as an industry to ensure the simplest path from<br />
manufacture to sale,” says Leading Edge general manager Joshua Zarb.<br />
Carson Webb, general manager of Showcase <strong>Jeweller</strong>s, also believes the power<br />
of community is invaluable.<br />
“Many of the long-term retailers who belong with buying groups will tell you that<br />
they are not just members for discounts – those days are long gone,” he says.<br />
Zarb and Webb aren’t the only industry stakeholders who remain confident in<br />
the face of adversity. Dominique Lamb, CEO and director of the National Retail<br />
Association, has great faith in the strength of jewellers.<br />
“This is nothing new to Aussie retailers who have proven time and again how<br />
adaptable and innovative they can be,” she says.<br />
THE DIGITAL BOGEYMAN<br />
Much has been written about the negative effect of internet shopping on<br />
traditional retailers. But according to Dyer, e-commerce is not as heavily to<br />
blame for dwindling jewellery sales as some might think.<br />
“The industry certainly isn’t dying in the face of online sales – there’s no doubt in<br />
my mind about that,” he says. “From what I’ve observed with our clients, typical<br />
online sales are at best around eight per cent of [total] sales.”<br />
Dyer says this is because online stores still can’t replicate the sales opportunities<br />
24 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong>
that come from face-to-face interaction.<br />
“Because of the emotional attachment and<br />
the dollar value of the product, and therefore<br />
the risk involved, there’s still a significant<br />
amount of face-to-face contact and the<br />
ability to sell based on the intrinsic value<br />
of the product, rather than just price alone,”<br />
he explains.<br />
Lamb dismisses the idea that traditional<br />
jewellers should cry ‘unfair’ about the<br />
emergence of online retailing.<br />
“The idea of clicks versus bricks is no longer<br />
relevant as technology has become a<br />
fundamental component of retailers’ overall<br />
strategies,” she explains.<br />
“This has enabled retailers to provide a far<br />
more comprehensive shopping experience.<br />
Participation is the key component for the<br />
modern consumer so retailers are now<br />
moving toward offering multiple streams to<br />
increase digital engagement, as well as instore<br />
offerings,” Lamb continues.<br />
“Each of these enhances the other to create a<br />
true, omni-channel approach.”<br />
This doesn’t mean jewellers who feel left<br />
behind in the digital revolution should panic.<br />
In fact, this is exactly where buying groups<br />
come in. All three groups have understood<br />
from the beginning of the digital era how<br />
crucial it is to be on board, and have plenty of<br />
solutions to help their members.<br />
“We are digitally savvy and have the skills for<br />
members to ask anything related to social<br />
media, video and photography,” Webb says.<br />
“We also have many free assets for them<br />
including product and non-product image<br />
downloads – our members should not want<br />
for anything in this department.”<br />
Zarb is also quick to point out the digital tools<br />
available for Leading Edge members.<br />
“A seamless online and in-store experience<br />
features heavily on our radar at Leading Edge.<br />
“For us as a buying group, we will continue<br />
to invest in this area to ensure our members<br />
have access to the technology to help them<br />
compete in this new digital world,” he says.<br />
Nationwide’s approach is no different.<br />
“We continue to update and modify the<br />
many benefits and services that we offer in<br />
order to stay ahead of the game and provide<br />
the best possible support for the retailers in<br />
our group,” Pocklington confirms.<br />
NECESSITY IS THE MOTHER OF INVENTION<br />
Internet technology has gone into overdrive<br />
but so have creative solutions, with new<br />
services and ideas popping up everywhere in<br />
retail, according to Lamb.<br />
“Retailers here and globally are already<br />
“THE GROWTH<br />
WILL BE IN THE<br />
ONLINE SECTOR,<br />
THEREFORE BUYING<br />
GROUPS SHOULD<br />
BE OFFERING<br />
RETAILERS<br />
ASSISTANCE<br />
WITH THIS”<br />
RUSSELL<br />
ZIMMERMAN<br />
partnering with tech companies and investing<br />
more in areas like conversational commerce,<br />
the use of artificial intelligence and chat bots<br />
to interact with customers. This generates<br />
incredible feedback and data capture on what<br />
customers actually want so retailers can refine<br />
their offerings even further,” Lamb explains.<br />
Russell Zimmerman, executive director of<br />
the Australian Retailers Association, says it is<br />
important for buying groups to lead the way<br />
in this area.<br />
“The growth in retail will be in the online<br />
sector, therefore buying groups should be<br />
offering their retailers assistance with this<br />
– from assisting with websites to delivery<br />
support via secure, fast, efficient and costeffective<br />
delivery systems,” he says.<br />
Zarb says this is exactly what Leading Edge is<br />
doing: “In <strong>2018</strong> we will see refinements to all<br />
our platforms and the launch of a bespoke<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong>y Concierge app, bringing the<br />
in-store and online experience together to<br />
increase sales.”<br />
It’s top of mind at Showcase too.<br />
“There’s probably never been a better time to<br />
be with the group,” Webb states.<br />
“We have resources that are second to none<br />
that members simply couldn’t tap into as<br />
a stand-alone business. These include an<br />
e-commerce, mobile ready web platform that<br />
has Google, YouTube and Pinterest built in.”<br />
GROUP TOTALS - AUSTRALIA<br />
TYPE NATIONWIDE SHOWCASE LEADING EDGE TOTAL<br />
MEMBERS 335 152 135 622<br />
STORES 393 212 195 800<br />
GROUP TOTALS - NEW ZEALAND<br />
TYPE NATIONWIDE SHOWCASE LEADING EDGE TOTAL<br />
MEMBERS 70 26 3 99<br />
STORES 75 23 23 121<br />
LEADING EDGE HAS ENTERED THE NEW ZEALAND MARKET FOR THE FIRST TIME<br />
GROUP TOTALS - INTERNATIONAL<br />
TYPE<br />
NATIONWIDE<br />
FIJI<br />
SHOWCASE<br />
VANUATU<br />
TOTAL<br />
MEMBERS 1 1 2<br />
STORES 4 1 5<br />
MEMBERS AND STORES OUTSIDE OF AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND<br />
TOTAL NUMBER<br />
926 723<br />
STORES MEMBERS<br />
For Pocklington, the most important thing<br />
jewellers can do is focus on building a unique<br />
brand to set themselves apart.<br />
“Custom design continues to increase<br />
and we are launching a major marketing<br />
initiative early in <strong>2018</strong> to assist members to<br />
substantially grow this part of their business,”<br />
he says.<br />
“Merchandise of a fashion nature is now<br />
a much larger proportion of the average<br />
retailer’s stock holding than ever before. It<br />
is essential that retailers review their brand<br />
performance every six months using the tools<br />
we have provided.”<br />
This detail isn’t lost on Webb who says,<br />
“We believe whilst there is a reduction in<br />
the number of retail jewellers out there, it’s<br />
also pushing up the quality of standards<br />
demanded by consumers. It’s simply not good<br />
enough to house various brands in an old site,<br />
<strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 25
BUYING GROUPS<br />
NATIONWIDE - AUSTRALIA<br />
COMPARISON NSW VIC QLD WA SA TAS ACT NT TOTAL<br />
<strong>2018</strong> - Members 108 77 67 30 33 10 8 2 335<br />
2016 - Members 121 88 85 35 38 11 11 2 391<br />
Variance -13 -11 -18 -5 -5 -1 -3 0 -56<br />
<strong>2018</strong> - Stores 127 94 82 32 34 10 12 2 393<br />
2016 - Stores 137 92 95 36 38 11 16 2 427<br />
Variance -10 2 -13 -4 -4 -1 -4 0 -34<br />
* EXCLUDES 70 MEMBERS AND 75 STORES IN NEW ZEALAND AND 1 MEMBER AND 4 STORES IN FIJI<br />
pop in a casual extra and hope it all goes well<br />
– those days are gone.”<br />
REASONS TO BE A GROUPIE<br />
While getting that ‘group discount’ is still a big<br />
drawcard for joining a buying group, it’s only<br />
a tiny part of why joining one can prove to be<br />
beneficial – or even necessary these days.<br />
Dyer believes a sense of community is one of<br />
the greatest benefits retailers get from being<br />
part of a group. When jewellers get together,<br />
they can share their problems and devise<br />
solutions together.<br />
“I think one of the most significant things in a<br />
challenging time like this is communication<br />
with your peers – not mix of product,<br />
extended credits or anything else,” Dyer says.<br />
One of the biggest problems he has observed<br />
for retail jewellers is “finding the motivation to<br />
do something new”.<br />
In the face of the constantly changing market,<br />
Dyer believes retailers “don’t see an answer;<br />
they just see more problems.”<br />
That’s where unity and discussion become so<br />
valuable, he explains.<br />
“At [buying-group] meetings there’s a chance<br />
to communicate; where retailers can tell each<br />
other, ‘You’re not the only one with these<br />
SHOWCASE - AUSTRALIA<br />
problems. Here are some ways you might<br />
choose to tackle these things,’” Dyer says.<br />
Zarb agrees: “Our members are looking for<br />
help on how to compete in this challenging<br />
environment, specifically on getting shoppers<br />
through the door and spending more money<br />
once they are there. They have certainly<br />
moved away from the ‘group-purchasing’<br />
mindset; it has shifted from a ‘discount’<br />
mentality to a ‘value’ mentality.”<br />
To Zarb and Webb, the real value of<br />
membership lies in the support that buying<br />
groups offer to retailers.<br />
“It can be very daunting trying to run a<br />
successful jewellery retail business without<br />
the data analysis and market trend advice<br />
that buying groups offer,” Zarb continues.<br />
“We provide the ‘road maps’ for members to<br />
use at their discretion to maximise efficiencies<br />
in stock purchasing and reducing unplanned<br />
or wasted purchases.”<br />
Webb agrees: “The retailers require more<br />
than a discount or a bit of credit, which we all<br />
know is built in somewhere.”<br />
According to Pocklington, Nationwide has<br />
seen strong results arise from helping their<br />
members with business strategies.<br />
“Our exclusive Industry Best Practice<br />
COMPARISON NSW VIC QLD WA SA TAS ACT NT TOTAL<br />
<strong>2018</strong> - Members 61 30 40 7 5 8 0 1 152<br />
2016 - Members 60 30 40 7 5 8 0 1 151<br />
Variance 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1<br />
<strong>2018</strong> - Stores 76 47 63 10 5 10 0 1 212<br />
2016 - Stores 81 40 68 12 6 9 0 1 217<br />
Variance -5 7 -5 -2 -1 1 0 -5<br />
* EXCLUDES 26 MEMBERS AND 23 STORES IN NEW ZEALAND AND 1 MEMBER AND 1 STORE IN VANUATU<br />
“THERE’S STILL<br />
A SIGNIFICANT<br />
AMOUNT OF FACE-<br />
TO-FACE CONTACT<br />
AND THE ABILITY<br />
TO SELL BASED<br />
ON THE INTRINSIC<br />
VALUE OF THE<br />
PRODUCT”<br />
MICHAEL DYER<br />
Programme is already resulting in a substantial<br />
improvement to sales and profits for many<br />
members,” Pocklington explains.<br />
“More and more retailers are realising the<br />
importance of the business support services<br />
that we provide.”<br />
Coming back to that group discount,<br />
Pocklington adds that it’s not just the savings<br />
but also the origin of a product that is<br />
important for members.<br />
Nationwide therefore selects suppliers based<br />
on what is best for their members.<br />
“We review suppliers twice a year and are<br />
always on the lookout for new product<br />
opportunities that will enhance our members’<br />
businesses,” Pocklington says.<br />
Webb also stresses the importance of<br />
member needs in relation to suppliers.: “We<br />
are owned by the members and work for<br />
members so we’re in the business of growing<br />
the retailers’ businesses,” he says.<br />
“To do that successfully these days, it’s so<br />
much more than just a purchasing discount.<br />
We introduce new suppliers with open arms<br />
and work diligently on their success but,<br />
ultimately, the retailers decide what’s right for<br />
them and their clients,” Webb continues.<br />
“In fact, many of our core jewellery suppliers<br />
are trading up this year so that’s a positive sign<br />
for suppliers, members and us.”<br />
THE WAY FORWARD<br />
The sentiment across the three buying<br />
groups is that the future still holds a place for<br />
traditional retailers.<br />
For all the options and bargains the internet<br />
can offer, it will never be able to compete<br />
with the experience of talking to an expert<br />
in person.<br />
Lamb confirms that the even Gen Z and<br />
Millennial consumers want exactly that.<br />
“Research suggests that even the youngest<br />
shoppers – those who were almost born with<br />
a smart phone in their hands – still love and<br />
appreciate the in-store experience,” she says.<br />
“This is merely a continuation of the rising<br />
ideals of participation, social conscience,<br />
connection, individualised service and<br />
consumer experience.”<br />
Pocklington says Nationwide intends to keep<br />
26 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong>
LEADING EDGE - AUSTRALIA<br />
COMPARISON NSW VIC QLD WA SA TAS ACT NT TOTAL<br />
<strong>2018</strong> - Members 54 23 26 9 17 3 1 2 135<br />
2016 - Members 51 25 27 8 17 4 1 3 136<br />
Variance 3 -2 -1 1 0 -1 0 -1 -1<br />
<strong>2018</strong> - Stores 70 52 29 10 19 3 2 10 195<br />
2016 - Stores 64 48 29 8 19 4 2 12 186<br />
Variance 6 4 0 2 0 -1 0 -2 9<br />
* EXCLUDES 3 MEMBERS AND 23 STORES IN NEW ZEALAND<br />
abreast of the demands of the fashion world.<br />
“We have been running workshops at the<br />
International <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair for the last two<br />
years on how to evaluate brand performance.<br />
More retailers are realising the importance<br />
of the business support services that we<br />
provide,” he adds.<br />
Webb reiterates that jewellers should take<br />
pride in what they know and aim to be<br />
number one in their chosen areas.<br />
“Many of our Showcase members are fine<br />
jewellers, designers, watchmakers and<br />
experienced diamond retailers – we’re very<br />
proud of them. The path most of them have<br />
taken is to really embrace this area of the<br />
business,” he says.<br />
“We all understand the challenges and<br />
difficulties, many of us are living them daily;<br />
however, it’s making sure we address and<br />
focus on the ones we can influence, not the<br />
ones we cannot,” Webb concludes.<br />
“It’s a positive to see that fine jewellery sales<br />
“TECHNOLOGY<br />
HAS BECOME A<br />
FUNDAMENTAL<br />
COMPONENT<br />
OF RETAILERS’<br />
OVERALL<br />
STRATEGIES”<br />
DOMINIQUE<br />
LAMB<br />
are now well up, with steady growth coming<br />
across each month.”<br />
Zarb urges retailers to focus on custom<br />
collections. “Many of the chain stores are<br />
reducing their custom-make offerings and<br />
this leaves the door open for our retailers to<br />
capture this market,” he says. “We will continue<br />
to offer marketing support to our members to<br />
promote design and manufacture.”<br />
The battle between online and traditional<br />
retailing is set to continue but there is no<br />
shortage of resources to help bricks-andmortar<br />
retailers in their fight. Buying groups<br />
offer a way for jewellers to come together and<br />
share their knowledge and expertise while<br />
also maximising their purchasing power.<br />
As they say, there’s always strength in<br />
numbers. i<br />
* Each buying group operates a completely<br />
different business model. What are the benefits<br />
and differences of the three groups and the cost<br />
of membership? To find out, turn to page 28.
BUYING GROUPS REPORT<br />
ADVERTISEMENT<br />
Joshua Zarb<br />
General Manager<br />
LEADING<br />
EDGE GROUP<br />
JEWELLERS<br />
ESTABLISHED: 1986<br />
MEMBERS: AUS: 135 NZ: 3<br />
STORES: AUS: 195 NZ: 23<br />
BOARD MEMBERS: 5<br />
MISSION: The Leading Edge Group<br />
aspires to be the champion of<br />
independent businesses throughout<br />
Australia. Our mission is to help<br />
our members grow in a highly<br />
challenging retail environment.<br />
We do this by enabling profitable<br />
relationships between members<br />
and suppliers, and providing<br />
highly valuable retail coaching and<br />
marketing services.<br />
What are the prerequisites for joining?<br />
Our application process consists of standard<br />
trade checks and proof of assets. We look to<br />
partner with retailers who are dedicated to<br />
building a successful fine jewellery business<br />
and eager to be part of a like-minded<br />
community. Honesty and ethical trading are<br />
fundamental requirements.<br />
What are the benefits of joining?<br />
As part of Australia’s largest buying group,<br />
with 950 independent retailers across<br />
11 industries, our members are part of a<br />
community of retail specialists. Membership<br />
benefits include:<br />
• Supplier discounts - Australia’s most cost<br />
effective supplier agreements<br />
• Central billing / credit – exclusive, simple<br />
online invoicing and central billing facilities<br />
• Marketing programs – opt-in online and<br />
offline programs focused on delivering<br />
tangible sales results<br />
• Access to our market-leading e-commerce<br />
website platform, Everybuy<br />
• Non-trade benefits – saving up to thousands<br />
annually on insurance, freight, EFTPOS<br />
merchant rates and more<br />
• Retail coaching – access to our jewellery<br />
retail coaches for stock ranging,<br />
merchandising, financial planning,<br />
management & staff training and<br />
store design<br />
• Conferences & events – designed to inspire,<br />
motivate, educate and build communities<br />
What unique benefits are offered?<br />
Our advantage lies in the practical application<br />
of our extensive retail and marketing<br />
knowledge. We enable our members to grow<br />
in a challenging environment, by providing<br />
coaching and services that ensures stores are<br />
designed and merchandised for optimum<br />
return; an online presence that increases<br />
both online and in-store sales; and marketing<br />
programs that provide tangible sales results.<br />
What have been Leading Edge’s major<br />
achievements over the past two years?<br />
We have been particularly fortunate to have<br />
two record years of growth in new members.<br />
We have continued to invest heavily in digital<br />
marketing, and are proud to offer all members<br />
what we believe is the most comprehensive<br />
traditional and digital marketing support<br />
package in the industry.<br />
Has your traditional marketing changed in<br />
the past two years?<br />
Traditional marketing has declined in the<br />
past two years because jewellery consumer<br />
behaviour has changed. There is still a role for<br />
traditional programs, however they must<br />
now be part of an omni-channel. Our<br />
members need to have their brands seen<br />
throughout the consumer’s path to purchase,<br />
and that means we must enter new<br />
communications channels.<br />
How have you improved your B2C online<br />
and social media marketing strategy?<br />
Our e-commerce platform is constantly<br />
being optimised for both user experience<br />
and SEO. The marketing services we provide<br />
will be focused on developing and executing<br />
strategies for each member’s unique needs.<br />
We will combine the best platforms with<br />
targeted and effective marketing strategies<br />
and services to grow our members businesses<br />
in this highly challenging environment.<br />
What B2B and internal digital technology<br />
have you recently implemented?<br />
Our B2B ordering portal is critical for enabling<br />
effective management of our member’s<br />
WE ENABLE OUR<br />
MEMBERS TO GROW<br />
IN A CHALLENGING<br />
ENVIRONMENT<br />
BY PROVIDING<br />
COACHING AND<br />
SERVICES THAT<br />
ENSURES STORES<br />
ARE DESIGNED AND<br />
MERCHANDISED FOR<br />
OPTIMUM RETURN<br />
stock. It acts as a one-stop shop between<br />
our supply partners and members, and<br />
integrates with our e-commerce website,<br />
removing the need for manual uploading of<br />
product data. We have also implemented a<br />
custom catalogue system.<br />
What other kind of promotional support<br />
do you offer members?<br />
Our members have access to both set<br />
marketing campaigns focused on the major<br />
occasions, as well as ad-hoc marketing<br />
and in-store sales services based on their<br />
individual needs. These are a complete<br />
package of catalogue, POS material, social<br />
media and website assets. Our ad-hoc<br />
services include managed digital strategies<br />
and campaigns, store-specific promotional<br />
offerings, interest-free payment campaigns,<br />
remake/remodeling campaigns, diamond<br />
specific marketing and an array of direct<br />
marketing offers that support the target<br />
demographic of member stores.<br />
How do you support local jewellery<br />
manufacturers?<br />
We focus on being ‘hands on’ with our supply<br />
partners by tailoring offers specific to our<br />
members. We use our conferences to work<br />
with industry professionals and share new<br />
opportunities. We also sponsor and promote<br />
many industry awards and events.<br />
What is the cost of membership?<br />
There are no joining fees, exit fees, or any<br />
lock-in contracts. We have an $89 per<br />
month membership fee (first 6 months of<br />
membership are free).<br />
How have you improved your training and<br />
education in the past 2 years?<br />
The prime focus of our buying group model<br />
is to provide hands-on training to members.<br />
In the past two years we have formalised our<br />
store management training package, and<br />
have continued to build on our exhaustive<br />
member benefits tool kit. In addition, we have<br />
partnered with Friedman Group to provide<br />
a permanent staff sales and management<br />
training package that is available online 24/7,<br />
free of charge.<br />
PHONE: 02 9497 4000<br />
www.leadingedgegroup.com.au<br />
28 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong>
E-COMMERCE<br />
Access a suite of<br />
cost effective online<br />
solutions to keep<br />
your store ahead of<br />
the game.<br />
Including a self<br />
administered Website,<br />
Direct Marketing /<br />
Loyalty Program,<br />
Social Media<br />
platform, eCommerce<br />
gateway & more.<br />
MARKETING<br />
Choose & pay<br />
for the marketing<br />
that you want to<br />
suit your business.<br />
Your choice of<br />
Catalogues, TV,<br />
Radio, Instore,<br />
Customer Loyalty,<br />
Direct Marketing,<br />
Social Media &<br />
more.<br />
TRAINING<br />
Free comprehensive<br />
industry<br />
specific staff at an<br />
individual store<br />
level which is also<br />
accessible<br />
24/7 via our exclusive<br />
member extranet.<br />
CONFERENCES<br />
Designed to inspire,<br />
motivate, educate &<br />
build relationships.<br />
The lessons learned<br />
from our expert team<br />
& fellow members<br />
are some of the<br />
greatest benefits you<br />
can receive.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
BRANDS<br />
MANAGEMENT<br />
ADVICE<br />
Access exclusive best<br />
selling inhouse brands<br />
and benefit from better<br />
margins. Including<br />
international branded<br />
diamonds, south sea<br />
pearls, Australian<br />
diamonds, popular<br />
silver brands, watches<br />
and a Diamond Design<br />
collection to assist<br />
you in your custom<br />
handmade business.<br />
Free business<br />
Mentoring, KPI<br />
Benchmarking<br />
& Free Business<br />
Analysis & Store<br />
Consultancy as well<br />
as extensive tailored<br />
management training<br />
programs, special HR /<br />
Policies & Procedures<br />
packages available to<br />
every member.<br />
FINANCIAL<br />
PLANNING<br />
Free access to<br />
Sales Budget<br />
setting templates<br />
that outlines<br />
associated start<br />
up costs, expected<br />
revenues, projected<br />
annual operating<br />
expenses, expected<br />
management KPIs<br />
and more.<br />
STOCK<br />
RANGING<br />
Access to our<br />
best selling stock<br />
analysis reports plus<br />
defined category<br />
management,<br />
purchase &<br />
replenishment<br />
planning information.<br />
BRILLIANT TOGETHER<br />
NETWORK / CONNECT / FAMILY / SHARE / SUPPORT<br />
INSPIRE / LEARN / MARKETING / SUCCEED / GROW<br />
Retain your name and your independence.<br />
Leading Edge Group is Australia’s largest & most cost effective buying group.<br />
We Specialise in HANDS ON Retail Assistance.<br />
Ask us about our FREE Staff Training Programs tailored<br />
specifically for your store!<br />
www.legj.com.au<br />
@LeadingEdge<strong>Jeweller</strong>sHO<br />
No cost to join & everything to gain.<br />
/LeadingEdge<strong>Jeweller</strong>sHO<br />
Enjoy the Best Prices in the Industry.<br />
Is your current Buying Group offering you the<br />
ONE-ON-ONE assistance you deserve?<br />
You’re not alone.<br />
Find out more. Come see us at the LEGJ lounge,<br />
International <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair, ICC Sydney.<br />
Talk to Josh Zarb, General Manager<br />
P: 1300 531 014<br />
E: zarbj@leadingedgegroup.com.au
BUYING GROUPS REPORT<br />
ADVERTISEMENT<br />
Colin Pocklington<br />
Managing Director<br />
NATIONWIDE<br />
JEWELLERS<br />
ESTABLISHED: 1991<br />
MEMBERS: AUS: 335 NZ: 70 FIJI: 1<br />
STORES: AUS: 393 NZ: 75 FIJI: 4<br />
BOARD MEMBERS: 2<br />
MISSION:To assist independent<br />
jewellery stores increase their<br />
market share and profits.<br />
What are the prerequisites for joining?<br />
Members must operate a retail jewellery<br />
store and have satisfactory credit references.<br />
Most new stores are recommended to us by<br />
suppliers or existing Nationwide members.<br />
What are the benefits of joining?<br />
• We provide a written guarantee that<br />
retailers will be more profitable if they join<br />
Nationwide. It doesn’t matter whether they<br />
have always been independent or were in<br />
another group<br />
• Free access to our Industry Best Practice<br />
Programme, which assists members to fine<br />
tune their business, and increase profits<br />
and cash flow<br />
• Exclusive branded merchandise collections<br />
• Overseas travel and free conferences<br />
• Education and training courses<br />
• An extensive range of professional<br />
marketing material and promotions<br />
• Nothing is compulsory – retailers maintain<br />
their complete independence<br />
What unique benefits are offered?<br />
• We are the only group that does not charge<br />
fees or levies<br />
• We offer up to $150,000 per year interest<br />
free finance to each retailer to spend at<br />
trade fairs and Nationwide events<br />
• Our Antwerp marketing program has<br />
increased diamond sales by more than<br />
$100,000 per year for many members<br />
• Free annual conference for all retailers<br />
earning reward status<br />
• We recognise the importance of marketing<br />
to your strength – your independence<br />
– which is why all of our services are<br />
designed to assist jewellers to not only<br />
maintain their independence, but to<br />
maximise the benefits of being an<br />
independent jeweller. Members select only<br />
what works for them<br />
What have been Nationwide’s major<br />
achievements in the past two years?<br />
• The restructure of our Industry Best Practice<br />
Programme, allowing us to assist a greater<br />
number of members to substantially<br />
improve their business performance<br />
• Our presentations to members on how the<br />
industry is dramatically changing, and the<br />
solutions to ensure that they prosper in this<br />
‘new normal’ business environment<br />
• The launch of our online Business College,<br />
which features training courses and<br />
product knowledge to name just a few.<br />
Has your traditional marketing changed<br />
in the past two years?<br />
We still produce Christmas catalogues as<br />
well as POS material for other promotions.<br />
Most of our promotions are also available<br />
in a digital format. Our graphic artists create<br />
various individual marketing material for<br />
members to use in print and/or social media<br />
– and it is a free service.<br />
How have you improved your B2C online<br />
and social media marketing strategy?<br />
We updated our member websites and<br />
at the same time made them mobile<br />
friendly. Any member can have their own<br />
e-commerce website for only $2,900,<br />
charged over 12 months. All online<br />
purchases transactions are completed at<br />
Nationwide’s head office. The retail margin<br />
is credited to the relevant member with no<br />
work required by store staff.<br />
What B2B and internal digital technology<br />
have you recently implemented?<br />
A new member-only website was launched<br />
in September 2017. It gives members 24/7<br />
access to their account, to our preferred<br />
supplier and product information, and a wide<br />
range of resource material. The free resources<br />
cover areas such as marketing, business<br />
guides, award pay rates, employment<br />
agreements, upcoming events and more.<br />
What other kind of promotional support<br />
do you offer members?<br />
Our in-house marketing team develops<br />
WE PROVIDE<br />
A WRITTEN<br />
GUARANTEE THAT<br />
RETAILERS WILL BE<br />
MORE PROFITABLE<br />
IF THEY JOIN<br />
NATIONWIDE<br />
exclusive marketing tools linked to key<br />
promotional periods. Individualised<br />
marketing calendars can be created on<br />
request for stores and POS material is<br />
continually produced to highlight current<br />
best-selling product.<br />
Members also have access to an online<br />
marketing and promotional library, from<br />
which they can select promotions and ideas.<br />
Our graphic design service is free of charge<br />
and staff constantly work to fine-tune<br />
concepts and create exclusive promotions<br />
for individual stores to use.<br />
How do you support local designers/<br />
manufacturers?<br />
Over the past eight years we have given<br />
apprentices more than $120,000 in tool<br />
vouchers. We conduct an annual skill-based<br />
contest for apprentices, with the winner<br />
receiving our Apprentice of the Year award.<br />
At the International <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair and at<br />
our conference, we conduct CAD training<br />
workshops. We are in the process of<br />
launching a major initiative to help members<br />
promote their design and manufacturing<br />
services to a wider audience.<br />
What is the cost of membership?<br />
Absolutely nothing – and there are no<br />
joining fees, monthly agency fees, marketing<br />
levies or security deposits.<br />
How have you improved your training<br />
and education in the past two years?<br />
At the International <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair in 2017,<br />
we had Nationwide members share their<br />
skills and help train fellow members in<br />
social media marketing, and in using<br />
Countersketch International software.<br />
Our hands-on diamond workshops now<br />
include sessions on lab-grown diamonds<br />
and treatments. These sessions have a direct<br />
impact on sales, and were so popular that we<br />
are running further sessions at the<br />
<strong>2018</strong> conference.<br />
PHONE: 02 9418 0000<br />
www.nationwidejewellers.com.au<br />
30 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong>
STAY INDEPENDENT...and PROSPER<br />
Worried about the effect that the changes in retail are having<br />
on your business?<br />
We have the answers.<br />
Our presentation “Welcome to The New Normal” (published in <strong>Jeweller</strong><br />
magazine in December 2017) outlines the changes that are occurring in our<br />
industry, and importantly, why.<br />
In February 2017, we are releasing the “New Normal Retail Response<br />
Plan”, which sets out over 20 specific strategies required to re-engineer<br />
retail jewellery businesses, so that they not only survive, but prosper in<br />
<strong>2018</strong> and beyond.<br />
Benefit from our exclusive New Normal Retail Response Plan, and our<br />
Industry Best Practice Programme.<br />
NO joining fee<br />
NO agency fee<br />
NO security deposits<br />
Request a free, no obligation info kit!<br />
E: info@jgbs.com<br />
P: 02 9418 0000<br />
More Independent <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Choose Nationwide
BUYING GROUPS REPORT<br />
ADVERTISEMENT<br />
SHOWCASE<br />
JEWELLERS<br />
Carson Webb<br />
General Manager<br />
ESTABLISHED: 1981<br />
MEMBERS: AUS: 152 NZ: 26<br />
VANUATU: 1<br />
STORES: AUS: 212 NZ: 23<br />
VANUATU: 1<br />
BOARD MEMBERS: 5<br />
MISSION: JIMACO (Showcase<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong>s) provides members with<br />
programs, systems, resources, tools<br />
and professional services to enable<br />
them to maximise their individual<br />
business objectives.<br />
What are the prerequisites for joining?<br />
Integrity is one of the greatest qualities<br />
we look for in a member. Operating a fine<br />
jewellery store with high standards in<br />
presentation and service is preferred.<br />
What are the benefits of joining?<br />
• No management fees<br />
• Retain your own name/brand<br />
• Maximum supplier discount passed on<br />
directly to the retailer<br />
• Unbeatable insurance and EFTPOS rates<br />
• A world leading fully customisable, mobile<br />
ready, e-commerce platform (including<br />
B2B) for retailers as well as integration of the<br />
Retail Edge POS system<br />
• In-house product photography, videos<br />
and free image libraries for all digital<br />
requirements<br />
• Free ARA membership (and the equivalent<br />
HR resource for our NZ members)<br />
• Access to exclusive diamond brands,<br />
including exclusive rights to certified<br />
Argyle white diamonds and the world<br />
leading lab-grown diamond facility for<br />
those members interested<br />
• World-class e-learning, complete with<br />
videos, certified courses and templates on<br />
everything HR or WHS related<br />
• <strong>Jeweller</strong>y apps, incorporating social media<br />
integration and a focus on driving sales<br />
• Professional and customisable POS<br />
marketing material to suit the retailer<br />
• Fully franked dividends and returns on<br />
trading loans for our members<br />
• Free internal retailing, diamond and digital<br />
experts to assist our retailers in every step of<br />
their retail journey<br />
What unique benefits are offered?<br />
JIMACO is a member-owned and operated<br />
buying group that operates exclusively for<br />
independent jewellery retailers. All profits go<br />
back to our members.<br />
What have been Showcase’s major<br />
achievements over the past two years?<br />
• First group to embrace and lock in the<br />
Australian Diamond program with an<br />
exclusive partnership with Rio-Tinto<br />
• Members now receive fully-franked<br />
dividends<br />
• Members also continue to receive a return<br />
on their trading loan<br />
• B2B and member website rollout built in<br />
the same platform as Google and YouTube<br />
but fully customisable to suit many different<br />
stores and styles<br />
• Continued success of the diamond brand<br />
Passion8 (cinema advertising, digital<br />
following)<br />
• Exclusive rights to lab grown diamonds<br />
through the ALTR brand for those interested<br />
• Launching a catalogue facility that is fully<br />
customisable where individuals can upload<br />
their stock and create their own pages,<br />
making it specifically tailored to them.<br />
Has your traditional marketing changed in<br />
the past two years?<br />
Traditional media still plays an important role<br />
– not as high volume, but more quality. We<br />
also present every campaign in a full digital<br />
package, making it easier for our members<br />
to use everything across most channels.<br />
Everything we do is also mobile device<br />
friendly.<br />
How have you improved your B2C online<br />
and social media marketing strategy?<br />
The organic growth and engagement of<br />
our own social media sites is testament to<br />
the focus in this area. Members can now<br />
fully integrate their social media platforms<br />
with their websites, and their Retail Edge<br />
Consultants POS system. We now also assist<br />
members with Google myBusiness and other<br />
necessities.<br />
OUR MARKETING<br />
TEAM AND<br />
CREATIVE AGENCY<br />
PARTNERS ARE<br />
COMMITTED<br />
TO TAILORING<br />
MARKETING<br />
SOLUTIONS FOR<br />
MEMBERS<br />
What B2B and internal digital technology<br />
have you recently implemented?<br />
We are already well equipped in global<br />
e-commerce and B2B. Our members can<br />
create their own m-commerce (commercial<br />
mobile phone transactions), and a geofenced<br />
fully customisable app for their<br />
business. Basically this works with push<br />
technology: when our members’ customers<br />
go near a competitor or shopping centre, it<br />
will send them a push notification offering<br />
a free product or service to temp them to<br />
the store. We can also make Facebook and<br />
Instagram videos, plus image downloads are<br />
free for members.<br />
What other kind of promotional support<br />
do you offer members?<br />
Our marketing team and creative agency<br />
partners are committed to tailoring marketing<br />
solutions for members. This is in addition<br />
to our core-marketing program catering to<br />
major selling periods. Resources available<br />
include social media, EDMs, billboards,<br />
cinema advertising, television commercials,<br />
catalogues, radio and newspaper.<br />
How do you support local designers/<br />
manufacturers?<br />
We’re really proud of the JAA Designer<br />
Awards we put on last year. We will also be<br />
looking at another strategy shortly to further<br />
support our talented jewellers and designers.<br />
What is the cost of membership?<br />
There’s no start-up membership fee. At<br />
Showcase you become far more than ‘just<br />
a member’. You become a shareholder who<br />
shares all the benefits.<br />
How have you improved your training and<br />
education in the past two years?<br />
We’ve created online courses in collaboration<br />
with external certified training bodies.<br />
We have a massive, ever-growing online<br />
retail staff induction facility. The tool is<br />
customisable and guides new employees<br />
through policies and procedures, product<br />
and sales courses with video instruction and<br />
questionnaires. There’s also a massive HR<br />
database.<br />
PHONE: 02 8566 1800<br />
www.showcasejewellers.com.au<br />
32 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong>
WE’RE IN THE<br />
BUSINESS OF<br />
GROWING YOUR<br />
BUSINESS.<br />
What you receive<br />
• Easily accessed advice and professional services<br />
• World class training systems + free ARA membership<br />
• Marketing and digital resource guidance<br />
• Fully customisable apps, websites, catalogues<br />
• Access to exclusive Showcase brands<br />
• Member owned jewellery focused business<br />
• Maximum supplier discounts to you the retailer<br />
• No ongoing monthly management fees<br />
What it delivers<br />
• Increased productivity<br />
• Exclusive incentives back to members<br />
• The ability to build your brand<br />
• Your identity presented professionally<br />
• Increased margins<br />
• Profits back to members<br />
• Maximised buying power<br />
• Better bottom-line results<br />
What our members have to say<br />
“Head Office provides me with everything from catalogues to marketing, technology<br />
support and so much more. They’re invaluable to my business.”<br />
Rosie Ficarra Kennedy’s Showcase <strong>Jeweller</strong>s, Swan Hill<br />
“I’ve previously been with another buying group, so I appreciate what I now receive as real, tangible<br />
benefits to my business for its future and success.”<br />
Neil Watson Watsons’ <strong>Jeweller</strong>s, Launceston<br />
“The simplicity and professionalism of being able to utilise all of Showcase’s digital and training tools perfectly<br />
suits our business and drives the results we need as a self branded multi-store operation.”<br />
Ben Duff Duffs <strong>Jeweller</strong>s, Geelong<br />
Interested? Contact us today<br />
We’re ready when you are. So if you think it’s time to get serious about where you’re going, email us today.<br />
Our team will be happy to show you how we can grow your business together.<br />
Email: enquiries@showcasejewellers.com.au<br />
www.showcasejewellers.com.au
MOTHER’S DAY<br />
boost<br />
Getting a<br />
this Mother’s Day<br />
CONSIDERED ONE OF THE JEWELLERY INDUSTRY’S MOST SIGNIFICANT<br />
ANNUAL SALES EVENTS, THERE’S PLENTY RETAILERS CAN DO TO<br />
ENSURE THEY’RE READY FOR MOTHER’S DAY. TALIA PAZ REPORTS.<br />
other’s Day – the one day of the year men, women, teens and young<br />
people alike collectively celebrate mothers by showering them with<br />
love, appreciation – and jewellery.<br />
Not surprisingly, this day is considered the industry’s second largest<br />
trading period after Christmas, and with good reason – according to the National<br />
Retail Association (NRA) consumers spent approximately $1.5 billion last year, with<br />
jewellery one of the top areas for spending.<br />
“If there’s one occasion we can all agree to celebrate at the moment, it would have<br />
to be Mother’s Day,” NRA CEO Dominique Lamb says.<br />
“<strong>Jeweller</strong>y has been, and always will be, a top choice for showing our gratitude for<br />
what these wonderful women give to all of us.”<br />
With that in mind, we sought feedback from suppliers, retailers and marketing<br />
experts on how retailers can maximise sales in the lead up to the special<br />
day on 13 May.<br />
TAKE CARE, PREPARE<br />
There is a question as to when retailers should begin their Mother’s Day<br />
marketing efforts, with the general consensus being that it should be one to three<br />
weeks beforehand.<br />
Sigrid de Kaste, a former jeweller and marketing consultant and director of<br />
Stickybeak Marketing, recommends taking a strategic approach.<br />
“I would suggest to start after the Easter Monday week is over. Why? Many are on<br />
holidays over Easter and the week after,” de Kaste explains.<br />
“As a general rule, [its best to start] about three weeks before the date – if you are<br />
too early, the message gets lost in the noise of other offers.”<br />
Cheryle Roberts, director of supplier Stones & Silver, agrees with those sentiments,<br />
adding that her business will be conducting a ‘Get ready for Mother’s Day<br />
campaign’ from mid April that will include some Mother’s Day classic items, along<br />
with “beautiful new and modern designs.”<br />
Fabuleux Vous director Helen Thompson-Carter offers her own take on the matter:<br />
“I think 10 to 15 days prior is plenty – any longer and it doesn’t work. However,<br />
running something special in store the week before does work.”<br />
SPREADING THE LOVE<br />
Although most demographics will be shopping for Mother’s Day gifts, anecdotal<br />
evidence suggests that retailers should place greater focus on male shoppers<br />
because of their propensity to purchase higher value items.<br />
For example, a study conducted in the UK by market research company Mintel<br />
found that, while women are still more likely to buy a Mother’s Day present than<br />
men, when men do spend, they spend more. It’s an intriguing thought, and one<br />
that not all retailers would necessarily have thought – or agree with.<br />
“I think it is for everyone to enjoy,” Thompson-Carter says when asked her opinion.<br />
34 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong>
“My father always buys a little something for<br />
our mother to say thank you for being the<br />
mother of his children. My children give a<br />
little something to their godmothers, to their<br />
grandmothers and to me, their mother.<br />
“It’s treated as a ‘family’ celebration – after all,<br />
every family starts with a parent, and most<br />
with a mother,” she adds.<br />
Angie Ash, executive vice president of<br />
Fruchtman, a US-based jewellery marketing<br />
business, agrees that male consumers are the<br />
demographic spending the most. She<br />
also believes retailers’ core demographic<br />
should not be so easily dismissed. “We<br />
see jewellery spends coming from mums<br />
purchasing for their daughters or their own<br />
mums,” Ash reiterates.<br />
Najo managing director Jo Tory agrees<br />
with these sentiments. “As Mother’s Day is<br />
a big day for promotions, we see a boost in<br />
our core female audience, as it is a treat for<br />
themselves or for mum,” Tory says. “In saying<br />
that, there is also a noticeable increase with<br />
our male clients.”<br />
This is also the case for Simon Garber, director<br />
of local distributor Heart & Grace, whose<br />
portfolio encompasses Cluse watches.<br />
“Although Millennial women aged 20 to<br />
40 are leading the charge, on Mother’s Day<br />
it’s best to target men by showcasing your<br />
Mother’s Day specials in businesses with male<br />
patrons,” Garber says.<br />
Ash says that Millennials – also known as Gen<br />
Y – are another demographic retailers should<br />
pay attention to for Mother’s Day.<br />
“You have to keep an eye out for styles that<br />
are popular with Gen Y - look at what they are<br />
wearing and how they’re<br />
wearing it,” Ash states.<br />
“Whereas an older target<br />
demo may like birthstone<br />
rings and jewellery, Gen<br />
Y prefers jewellery that is<br />
more delicate or includes<br />
sayings and engravings,<br />
especially with names and in<br />
styles that can be worn every day.<br />
“Pricepoint is also very important<br />
because this generation tends to<br />
be more conscious about the cost. If there is a<br />
philanthropic angle to the purchase, it’s even<br />
better. Finally, Gen Y wants to stand out in the<br />
crowd. They’re always looking for something<br />
unique before it becomes popular,” she adds.<br />
De Kaste elaborates further: “The 20 to 30<br />
something is the biggest age group spending<br />
on jewellery for Mother’s Day – they buy both<br />
for mum and mum-in-law and are very keen<br />
to give that gift of jewellery.”<br />
PROMOTING THE DAY<br />
As well as targeting purchases to the right<br />
demographic appropriately, retailers should<br />
also be ensuring their promotional efforts are<br />
up to speed in preparation for the day.<br />
“Because Mother’s Day crosses all ethnic,<br />
religious and cultural backgrounds, it’s a<br />
valuable opportunity for retailers,” a 2017<br />
article by Entrepeneur states.<br />
“Craft campaigns that embrace imperfections<br />
– a top hashtag among Millennials is<br />
#mumfail because they are honest about<br />
how hard it is to be a mum,” it adds.<br />
As well as incorporating hashtags on<br />
Facebook and Instagram pages that<br />
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HEART & GRACE<br />
consumers can have fun with,<br />
de Kaste believes there are<br />
many ways retailers can<br />
be innovative.<br />
“With so many<br />
competing gifts<br />
of various types<br />
to get for Mother’s<br />
Day, there are two<br />
important strategies for<br />
jewellers,” de Kaste says. “First,<br />
segment the market – offer<br />
specific items for specific<br />
age groups, like the 30<br />
somethings, the 40 to 50 and<br />
the over 60s.<br />
“Secondly, each segment will want different<br />
types of jewellery – a simple survey asking<br />
existing customers or checking a database as<br />
to what they buy will help here – then create<br />
a specific message to each segment.<br />
“With so much noise in the market, it’s about<br />
immediately capturing the right audience<br />
and a specifically designed message will do<br />
that,” she adds.<br />
Ash also believes there is value in partnering<br />
with other local businesses to promote<br />
offerings – florists or a day spa, anyone?<br />
“<strong>Jeweller</strong>s should consider offering a package<br />
that includes a gift card to an upscale salon<br />
as it’s like giving Mum two gifts in one,”<br />
Ash explains, adding, “Get your customers<br />
involved in your decision making.”<br />
If that’s not possible, bring the party to<br />
the retailer, Thompson-Carter declares.<br />
“Imagine going into a retail store that had<br />
complimentary morning tea or good coffee<br />
or a glass of bubbles for all mothers…and by<br />
taking the time to visit, they went into a draw<br />
to win,” she muses.<br />
“We need to get more engaged and creative<br />
for these special occasions. Make a big deal<br />
out of it – it is another opportunity to engage<br />
with customers, right from the supply chain<br />
to the consumer.”<br />
Taking advantage of the gift giving nature of<br />
the day is another sure way to boost sales,<br />
Catherine Pevy-Trewartha, owner of My<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong>y Shop adds.<br />
“This year, we will be doing a give away for a<br />
pair of diamond stud earrings,” she says. “Our<br />
competition will run on Facebook<br />
and Instagram as these are proving to be<br />
very popular.”<br />
Judy Cameron of Cameron’s Fine <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />
also echoed similar sentiments. “This<br />
Mother’s Day we will be running a Facebook<br />
competition; something like ‘tell us<br />
something special about your Mum’ and the<br />
winner will get a prize,” she explains.<br />
ADDING EXTRAS<br />
Many retailers may have already come to the<br />
same conclusion: add-ons with purchases are<br />
a win for all.<br />
According to Garber – who will be releasing<br />
a two-tone combination watch from its La<br />
Triomphe range for the day – customers<br />
should be offered extras such as special<br />
Mother’s Day gift bags, free gift wrapping,<br />
greeting cards or any other “fun extras<br />
that could be an additional incentive for<br />
purchasing your products.”<br />
“These extras will go a long way towards<br />
creating a positive experience with your<br />
customers,” he adds.<br />
Retailers might also want to consider a GWP<br />
(gifts with purchase) campaign, as is the case<br />
with Najo, which is offering silver and rose<br />
gold huggie earrings come this Mother’s Day.<br />
“This gift with purchase – an artfully tapered<br />
tear shape design creating a modern,<br />
sculptural finish – is to boost sales but<br />
also to reward customers, as it adds to a one<br />
off purchase either for oneself or for mum,”<br />
Tory adds.<br />
Thompson-Carter offers a similar strategy for<br />
the Fabuleux Vous range: “We provide posters,<br />
window displays, graphics for websites<br />
and social media posts – we aim to make<br />
everything as easy as possible for the retailer<br />
so all they have to concentrate on is making<br />
the sale,” she adds.<br />
At the end of the day, consumers want<br />
help finding the perfect Mother’s Day<br />
gift, so retailers would be well advised to<br />
have everything in place, with plenty of<br />
time to spare. With a well thought out plan<br />
of attack, a bit of savvy marketing and some<br />
genuine enthusiasm, this Mother’s Day will<br />
undoubtedly be the most successful yet. i
GEMS<br />
COLOUR INVESTIGATION: DIAMOND<br />
IMAGE COURTESY GREG C GRACE<br />
to orange gems, the nitrogen atoms are<br />
singularly substituted for carbon atoms,<br />
resulting in the absorption of blue and violet<br />
wavelengths of light and producing yellow<br />
through oranges hues.<br />
Blue to violet diamonds are the result of<br />
boron impurities; the more boron the deeper<br />
the saturation. Perhaps the most famous<br />
coloured diamond is the priceless, blue Hope<br />
diamond, which has a history of ownership<br />
dating back almost 400 years. Some blue<br />
stones may contain hydrogen as an impurity,<br />
as occurs in Australia’s Argyle mine.<br />
FIGURE 1. AUSTRALIAN ARGYLE PINK DIAMOND<br />
The diamond industry is built on a<br />
foundation of colourless gemstones<br />
but vivid-colour varieties are also<br />
highly valued and steadily increasing in<br />
popularity. STACEY LIM reports.<br />
It’s a gemstone famously prized for its lack of<br />
colour, so it might surprise people to know<br />
that many of the world’s most-coveted<br />
coloured gemstones are also diamonds.<br />
Formed up to 200km deep within the Earth’s<br />
mantle under extremely high pressures and<br />
temperatures, diamonds are carried to the<br />
surface in viscous, volcanic magma. Uniquely<br />
composed of a single element, diamond is<br />
typically about 99.95 per cent carbon, with<br />
the remaining 0.05 per cent incorporating<br />
one or more trace elements, often nitrogen,<br />
that can influence body colour.<br />
Just one in 10,000 gem-quality diamonds<br />
is classified as ‘fancy-coloured’. The<br />
various colours are formed under unique<br />
FIGURE 2. BRILLIANT CUT FANCY VIVID YELOW DIAMOND<br />
conditions involving specific trace elements,<br />
radiation and/or plastic deformation of the<br />
crystal structure.<br />
White diamonds are rated from D to Z on the<br />
industry’s accepted colour-grading system,<br />
where D is totally colourless and Z is a pale<br />
yellow or light brown colour. The term<br />
‘fancy’ is used for coloured stones that have<br />
greater depth of colour and are graded on a<br />
different scale.<br />
Diamonds are found in many colours,<br />
including yellow, brown, green, blue, violet,<br />
pink, red, grey and black, and even very slight<br />
colour differences significantly impact stone<br />
prices. Fancy yellow and browns are more<br />
abundant than other hues, and other colours<br />
are hard to find even in weak saturations.<br />
Rarest is the red diamond, of which only a<br />
small handful have been found.<br />
Diamonds typically contain nitrogen as<br />
an impurity. In the case of fancy yellow<br />
DIAMONDS<br />
ARE FOUND IN<br />
MANY COLOURS,<br />
INCLUDING<br />
YELLOW, BROWN,<br />
GREEN, BLUE,<br />
VIOLET, PINK, RED,<br />
GREY AND BLACK,<br />
AND EVEN VERY<br />
SLIGHT COLOUR<br />
DIFFERENCES<br />
SIGNIFICANTLY<br />
IMPACT STONE<br />
PRICES<br />
For pink and purple diamonds, it is suspected<br />
that the colouration is due to defects in<br />
the atomic structure as a result of ‘plastic<br />
deformation’ during the crystal’s journey to<br />
the Earth’s surface in hot magma.<br />
Green diamonds result from an exposure to<br />
radioactive uranium, which emits powerful<br />
gamma rays that create a deficiency by<br />
knocking individual carbon atoms out of the<br />
crystal lattice. These ‘holes’ absorb more of the<br />
blue and red wavelengths, resulting in green<br />
coloured stones. The more radiation that<br />
impacts the diamond, the deeper the green.<br />
Radiation treatments are readily available<br />
to produce colours in diamonds, so<br />
consumers should be cautious when<br />
presented with a coloured diamond at a<br />
surprisingly modest price.<br />
Classified according to their hue, tone and<br />
saturation, the value of coloured stones<br />
generally increases with the strength<br />
and purity of the colour. Large, fancycoloured<br />
diamonds are extremely rare, and<br />
correspondingly valuable because they are a<br />
wonderful sight to behold. i<br />
STACEY LIM FGAA BA Design, is a qualified<br />
gemmologist and gemmology teacher/assistant.<br />
She is a jewellery designer, marketing manager<br />
and passionate communicator on gemmology.<br />
For information on gemstones, visit: gem.org.au<br />
<strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 37
Behind every gemstone,<br />
there is a fascinating story<br />
waiting to delight clients<br />
around the world. Studying<br />
with GAA brings the<br />
expertise, networking and<br />
confidence to build a solid<br />
career in a multimilliondollar<br />
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BUSINESS<br />
CUSTOMER SERVICE IS NO ACCIDENT<br />
The industry is always changing the<br />
way it delivers customer service but is<br />
customer service itself any different?<br />
SHEP HYKEN offers retailers a customerfocused<br />
service refresher.<br />
Every week I’m asked, “What is changing in<br />
customer service?” The expected answer<br />
is that I’ll talk about all the new ways<br />
that customer service and support is<br />
conducted… and I do.<br />
There are self-service solutions that<br />
include video and answer frequently-asked<br />
questions (FAQs), social-media customer<br />
service across multiple channels such as<br />
Facebook and Twitter, and even AI (Artificial<br />
Intelligence) that the experts believe –<br />
myself included – will change everything<br />
about customer service.<br />
Yes, there is much that is changing about<br />
how we deliver customer service so I’m<br />
about to make a bold statement: despite all<br />
of these advancements, customer service is<br />
still the same as it was 50 years ago and will<br />
still be the same 50 years from now.<br />
needing service, whether it’s having a<br />
question answered or a problem resolved.<br />
In the end, the aim is that the customer is<br />
happy. That’s it. When it comes to customer<br />
expectations, they’re essentially all the<br />
same. In other words, nothing has changed<br />
in customer service!<br />
FASTER AND BETTER<br />
Okay, maybe it’s better said a different<br />
way. When it comes to the outcome<br />
of a customer service experience, the<br />
customer’s expectations haven’t changed;<br />
they still just want to be heard.<br />
That said, there are new and different ways<br />
to reach the outcome. What has changed<br />
is the way we go about delivering service;<br />
we’ve figured out how to deliver customer<br />
service faster and even better.<br />
Back in the day, speaking of some 20 years<br />
ago, there were typically just two ways to<br />
provide customer service: in person and<br />
over the phone. Then technology kicked in<br />
and we started making service and support<br />
IN THE END, THE<br />
AIM IS THAT THE<br />
CUSTOMER IS<br />
HAPPY. THAT’S IT.<br />
WHEN IT COMES<br />
TO CUSTOMER<br />
EXPECTATIONS,<br />
THEY’RE<br />
ESSENTIALLY ALL<br />
THE SAME<br />
For example, there is now a solution for<br />
those choosing to offer support over the<br />
phone that lets customers know how long<br />
they have to wait on hold to speak to a<br />
customer-service representative.<br />
Sometimes customers are given the<br />
option of being called back at a time<br />
that is more convenient if they don’t<br />
have time to wait.<br />
In addition to the phone, there are now<br />
many other channels through which<br />
customers can connect with businesses.<br />
Beyond the phone, there is email, live<br />
online chat, social media posts and more.<br />
Businesses that are thinking about<br />
implementing a new customer-service<br />
solution, adding AI to support customers<br />
and agents or deciding which tools they<br />
want to use should remember one crucial<br />
piece of information: the customer’s<br />
expectations haven’t changed. Customers<br />
still just want to be served, regardless of<br />
how businesses choose to go about it.<br />
Customer service is just a customer<br />
better and more efficient.<br />
Customer service starts as a customer who<br />
<strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 39
BUSINESS<br />
EMPLOYEES ARE OFTEN THE ONLY REPRESENTATIVES OF A BUSINESS IN CONTACT WITH CUSTOMERS<br />
AT ANY GIVEN<br />
TIME IN A<br />
CUSTOMER<br />
TRANSACTION,<br />
ONE EMPLOYEE<br />
HAS THE<br />
RESPONSIBILITY<br />
TO DELIVER AN<br />
EXPERIENCE THAT<br />
IS IN ALIGNMENT<br />
WITH YOUR<br />
VISION – THE<br />
ONE WHO IS<br />
CURRENTLY<br />
INTERACTING<br />
WITH THE<br />
CUSTOMER<br />
KNOW THE LINE IN THE SAND<br />
An environment that fosters a customerfocus<br />
mindset empowers people to do<br />
what is necessary to take care of the<br />
customer without crossing the line.<br />
The boundaries are typically further out<br />
than most people think. Teach employees<br />
by example just how far they can go when<br />
taking care of their customers.<br />
ALWAYS LEARNING<br />
The best of the best are continuous learners,<br />
and not just about their own products.<br />
They learn about competitors, they stay<br />
abreast of the latest and greatest in the<br />
industry, they boost their general product<br />
and service knowledge and much more.<br />
They are interesting people with whom<br />
to talk because they understand how to<br />
address customers the right way.<br />
needs help, who is dealing with a problem,<br />
who is upset about something or who just<br />
wants to ask a question. It should end with<br />
that person feeling resolved, walking away<br />
knowing they made the right decision to<br />
do business with you.<br />
CUSTOMER-FOCUS MINDSET<br />
How you get from the beginning to the<br />
end is not nearly as important as how<br />
customers feel when they walk away, hang<br />
up the phone or turn off their computers.<br />
Customer service might be the same as it’s<br />
always been; however, it’s vital these days<br />
for retailers to help staff adopt a customerfocused<br />
mindset.<br />
That is, your staff probably attend<br />
customer-service training to learn<br />
techniques on how to deal with<br />
complaining customers, angry customers<br />
or customers who just need a little support.<br />
Training ensures staff are taught the right<br />
answers to some difficult yet common<br />
scenarios but what happens when<br />
scenarios occur that are outside the<br />
parameters of normal retail training?<br />
Good customer-service training teaches<br />
employees how to do it but great customer<br />
service training goes deep into the<br />
mindset, which is more than having a great<br />
attitude, a smile and a warm personality.<br />
Those qualities are important but a<br />
customer-focus mindset encompasses the<br />
‘how-to’ training and the positive attitude<br />
with an understanding of the reason why<br />
businesses relentlessly pursue an amazing<br />
customer experience.<br />
Such reasons are usually considered<br />
intangible – they might be about an inner<br />
drive and an ambitious effort to take care<br />
of the customer. Sometimes they can be<br />
intuitive. Certainly, they’re different for<br />
all businesses but here are five concepts<br />
that will help create a winning customerfocused<br />
mindset.<br />
TAKE CARE OF PEOPLE<br />
Not every employee has this mindset<br />
coming in and it’s possible that they might<br />
not achieve it even after basic customer<br />
service training.<br />
Sure, they may understand the techniques<br />
to deliver service but still not get the<br />
essence. A customer-focused mindset must<br />
always includes a strong desire to serve.<br />
BE IN THE MOMENT<br />
This is the ability to know when you are<br />
delivering a positive service experience.<br />
There are certain aspects of delivering<br />
service that are natural and automatic;<br />
however, people must be conscious of<br />
what they are doing and always looking for<br />
ways to make it better.<br />
RECOGNISING RESPONSIBILITY<br />
At any given time in a customer transaction,<br />
one employee has the responsibility to<br />
deliver an experience that is in alignment<br />
with your vision – the one who is currently<br />
interacting with the customer. This one<br />
person represents your brand and all his<br />
or her fellow employees. Does he or she<br />
deliver on that vision?<br />
Employees are central to the customerservice<br />
experience as they are often the<br />
only representatives of a business to be in<br />
direct and constant contact with customers.<br />
Don’t leave customer service to chance.<br />
Regardless of how good your employees’<br />
people skills are, you can’t simply hope they<br />
will understand how to apply what they<br />
know to your business. Train them and train<br />
often. Reinforce the positive and learn from<br />
any problems that arise.<br />
Ensure your staff have a customer focus<br />
to ensure your store is delivering upon<br />
its customer-service promises. Amazing<br />
customer service doesn’t happen by<br />
accident. It happens on purpose! i<br />
SHEP HYKEN is a best selling<br />
author who assists companies<br />
to build relationships with<br />
customers and employees.<br />
Learn More: hyken.com<br />
40 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong>
SELLING<br />
TO CATCH A BUYER…<br />
TO SELL TO BUYERS, SHOULDN’T SALESPEOPLE THINK LIKE BUYERS? SUE BARRETT EXPLAINS WHY THE SALES<br />
PROCESS WORKS BETTER FROM THE BUYER’S PERSPECTIVE, AND FOUR SIMPLE STEPS TO BREAK IT ALL DOWN.<br />
In the classic movie Caddyshack, Bill Murray<br />
tries in vain to catch a gopher that is ruining<br />
the golf course. Eventually, it occurs to<br />
him, “In order to catch a gopher, you have<br />
to think like one,” which is good advice for<br />
salespeople who want to ‘catch’ customers.<br />
Salespeople need to understand how<br />
customers buy. Salespeople know, at all<br />
times, where their prospects are in the sales<br />
cycle but they aren’t as knowledgeable<br />
on where their prospects are in their own<br />
buying cycles. If sales managers truly believe<br />
they know where buyers are in the purchase<br />
process, why do so many of them fail to put<br />
the knowledge to practical use?<br />
Barrett Consulting head of learning and<br />
development Jens Hartmann says, “We<br />
have found that this situation is endemic in<br />
most sales forces today, many of which are<br />
obsessed about their sales process.”<br />
Too many organisations invest millions of<br />
dollars in CRM and contact management<br />
technology and in training their salespeople<br />
on the sales process; however, this ignores<br />
that there’s a buyer at the other end whose<br />
own process is far more important.<br />
Take, for instance, the step in most sales<br />
processes where salespeople must identify a<br />
buyer’s need, yet sales is not really about the<br />
salesperson finding a need. Instead, they are<br />
more concerned with the buyer recognising<br />
that a need exists, and then doing something<br />
to satisfy that need.<br />
How important is that need in the scheme of<br />
issues facing the buyer? Does the prospect<br />
have the emotional desire to act? Is the<br />
probable solution the best alternative? What<br />
are the consequences if the need is left<br />
partially or even totally unresolved?<br />
All these points need to be weighed up<br />
and considered. After all, the sales process<br />
dictates that the salesperson should progress<br />
to the next stage of the cycle when a need<br />
has been uncovered.<br />
The challenge of using technology to<br />
THE BUYER<br />
BECOMES AWARE<br />
THEY HAVE A<br />
CHALLENGE TO<br />
ADDRESS. THEY<br />
BEGIN DEFINING<br />
THE OBJECTIVES<br />
AND DETERMINE<br />
IF THEY HAVE THE<br />
RESOURCES TO<br />
ACHIEVE THEIR<br />
GOALS<br />
WHERE ARE BUYERS IN THE SALES PROCESS?<br />
drive sales has undoubtedly reduced the<br />
cost of sale in absolute terms; however, it<br />
has also cost many organisations in lost<br />
opportunities because of their haste to<br />
progress through the cycle. How does one<br />
close the gap between their own selling<br />
process and selling to the customer’s buying<br />
cycle without going back to square one?<br />
Firstly, salespeople need to understand the<br />
buying process. Every buyer goes through<br />
the following four steps:<br />
Step 1: Awareness<br />
The buyer becomes aware they have a<br />
challenge to address. They begin defining<br />
the objectives and determine if they have<br />
the resources to achieve their goals. Once<br />
they become aware that they have a need,<br />
prospects start considering options.<br />
Step 2: Interest<br />
Here’s where buyers look into their options.<br />
They understand there are options available<br />
but they will also factor in the risk of<br />
changing. What will happen to them if they<br />
change? Salespeople need to acknowledge<br />
that prospects have options and are also<br />
assessing risks. Any buyer will wrap up this<br />
stage by making an emotional decision to<br />
buy or reject the proposition. Salespeople<br />
who fail to understand the buyer’s priorities<br />
risk profile and options can’t get past this<br />
stage even if they have the perfect solution.<br />
Step 3: Desire<br />
Desire is the rational side of decision making.<br />
The customer has made the emotional<br />
decision to buy in during the interest phase<br />
and is now looking at the numbers: Can<br />
they afford it? Is there an adequate return<br />
on the investment? What are the political<br />
ramifications within the company?<br />
Step 4: Action<br />
The customer is emotionally and rationally<br />
ready to buy. If the salesperson has done a<br />
good job aligning the selling process to the<br />
customer’s buying process, the prospect<br />
should give a “yes”, the moment they enter<br />
the action stage.<br />
Once organisations understand these four<br />
steps, they are ready to align their sales<br />
processes to the buying processes of their<br />
customers. This is simply plugging each step<br />
in the sales process into the corresponding<br />
step in the buying process and arranging it<br />
as logically as possible.<br />
Salespeople should now be tracking sales<br />
progress by moving from step to step in the<br />
customer’s buying process. This means they<br />
won’t exit the stage of identifying a need<br />
until the customer recognises the need,<br />
decides to give it priority over other issues<br />
and makes an emotional decision to pursue<br />
their need further.<br />
By making these adjustments, organisations<br />
will significantly reduce their lost deals<br />
and shorten the sales cycle as salespeople<br />
focus more of their time on prospects in the<br />
higher-value stages of the buying cycle. i<br />
SUE BARRETT is founder<br />
and CEO of sales advisory firm<br />
Barrett, and online platform<br />
salesessentials.com. Learn<br />
more: barrett.com.au<br />
<strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 41
MANAGEMENT<br />
STOP STAFF THEFT AT THE SOURCE<br />
INTERNAL THEFT IS AN UGLY BLIGHT ON RETAIL TRADING. DAVID GELLER OFFERS STRATEGIES TO HELP.<br />
Over the years I’ve heard countless stories of internal theft. Sometimes<br />
sales staff brazenly stealing from the cases, other times back-office staff<br />
rigging the books.<br />
In one case, a jeweller found his bookkeeper – a relative no less – had<br />
been writing cheques to non-existent suppliers and cashing the<br />
proceeds. She was caught; however, that store’s checks and balances<br />
were so bad that the new bookkeeper was soon at the same game.<br />
Many jewellers find it difficult to keep on top of their financials but if<br />
you give up your responsibilities in this area, you will soon pay a heavy<br />
price for doing so.<br />
MANY JEWELLERS<br />
FIND IT DIFFICULT<br />
TO KEEP ON<br />
TOP OF THEIR<br />
FINANCIALS BUT IF<br />
YOU GIVE UP YOUR<br />
RESPONSIBILITIES<br />
IN THIS AREA, YOU<br />
WILL SOON PAY A<br />
HEAVY PRICE FOR<br />
DOING SO<br />
Here are nine ways to help reduce fraud and internal theft.<br />
1. Use an independent accountant to reconcile the books – two sets<br />
of eyes will catch or any would-be thieves. If the store above had done<br />
this, stray cash deposits would have popped up in the first month.<br />
2. When stock arrives, photocopy the supplier’s invoice and give the<br />
copy to whoever enters the items into the Point of Sale (POS). After<br />
entering inventory, print copies from the POS of items just entered and<br />
compare it to the original invoice. If someone is ordering extra items<br />
and not entering them, it’ll show up here.<br />
3. When paying bills, one bookkeeper shouldn’t handle the whole<br />
procedure. Let the bookkeeper assemble the bills and prepare the<br />
payments, attaching cheques or EFT authorisations to the original<br />
invoices, then handing the lot to the owner to sign.<br />
Also print the accounts-payable record for that vendor. Do this for two<br />
reasons: First, look to see if what was received was entered. Second,<br />
look at the vendor report to see if the bookkeeper has used any credits.<br />
After the owner signs and OKs everything, the bookkeeper can then<br />
mail the cheque or make the EFT payment and file the invoice.<br />
4. All cheques should have an invoice attached to the cheque for the<br />
owner to sign, not the bookkeeper. This allows owners to keep track of<br />
payments for suppliers they don’t know. You might ask the question<br />
one day, “Just who is Acme Plumbing?”<br />
5. The cash-register drawer should have the same amount of cash in it<br />
every day – say $200. Remove excess cash daily, taking it directly to the<br />
bank or the safe.<br />
6. Make paper copies of the items in each display case, including SKU<br />
numbers, a small description, retail price and the case they’re in. Each<br />
morning, count the number of items in the case and check it against<br />
the paper record. If the numbers don’t match, don’t go further until<br />
you find the cause of the discrepancy. This process will keep everyone<br />
on their toes.<br />
7. Instead of conducting a stocktake only at the end of the financial<br />
year, do a count of one showcase at a time each month. The choice of<br />
USE AN INDEPENDENT ACCOUNTANT TO RECONCILE THE BOOKS<br />
case should be random, determined by the owner. This way staff won’t<br />
know which cases and items are being monitored.<br />
8. Thought I forgot about the shop? Never! I’m sure we experienced<br />
theft of metals, stones and findings for many years. I had many<br />
jewellers working at home to earn extra money and don’t know how<br />
many heads and lobster claws went out the door. I once let a jeweller<br />
go because he was incompetent and when I cleaned out his bench I<br />
found, to my surprise, several melted heads and shanks.<br />
To fix this, I hired a shop foreman who gave out and inspected all<br />
jobs to the jeweller, the polisher and then to the sales staff when a<br />
repair job was done. If a jeweller needed a finding, he got it from the<br />
foreman and not the findings cabinet.<br />
9. Many jewellers order three heads when they need only two,<br />
just in case one is melted. Unused ones should be returned to the<br />
foreman for stock or to the office to be returned for credit. On the<br />
back of each envelope, write the amounts needed for the job and the<br />
number enclosed. When the foreman gets the job back, he’ll know<br />
if something is missing and yell, “Hey where’s the extra head? Give it<br />
back!” This system also helps cut down on wasteful use of materials.<br />
These are just some of the strategies we’ve used to counter internal<br />
theft. I wish it weren’t so but I’m sure you have your own stories. With<br />
some vigilance, stores can put an end to such losses. i<br />
DAVID GELLER is director at JewelerProfit and<br />
author of Blue Book, a guide to repairs and custom<br />
design. Learn more: jewelerprofit.com<br />
42 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong>
MARKETING & PR<br />
GROW BUSINESS WITH COUPONS<br />
COUPONS ARE STILL RELEVANT IN RETAIL AND PRESENT A GREAT WAY FOR COMPANIES TO OFFER DISCOUNTS AND BOOST SALES,<br />
ALTHOUGH LUXURY RETAILERS NEED TO BE CAREFUL WHEN PLANNING A PROMOTIONAL STRATEGY. BRIAN EWING REPORTS.<br />
A recent report from Edison Research division<br />
called The Social Habit shows that 70 per cent<br />
of email readers open emails from a brand<br />
or company in search of a deal, discount or<br />
coupon. High-end businesses tend to run<br />
discounts only on an annual or semi-annual<br />
basis to maintain a certain level of brand<br />
equity. This may appear a successful strategy<br />
but it may also ignore the opportunity costs of<br />
luring new customers in a slightly-lower tier.<br />
The benefit of today’s technology, including<br />
customer management systems and POS<br />
systems, is the incredible amount of data<br />
that becomes available about a business’s<br />
customer base. This allows the promotional<br />
messaging to be geared towards a very<br />
specific audience. Avoid cannibalising highvalue<br />
customers by targeting those lower-tier,<br />
more frequent purchasers or those who have<br />
hesitated to make a purchase.<br />
At this point, customers are used to coupons<br />
and specialised offers as a basic component of<br />
their brand relationships. It’s also an important<br />
tool for independents to compete with<br />
chain store jewellers. Here are a few steps to<br />
consider before you decide to add one to your<br />
next email campaign.<br />
MAKE SURE COUPONS HAVE A GOAL<br />
Every coupon should have at least one main<br />
goal: to drive customers to take a specific<br />
action. If the goal is to increase sales during<br />
low traffic times, consider using a bounceback<br />
coupon. Maybe the goal is to sell<br />
complementary products to increase the<br />
overall purchase amount.<br />
DECIDE ON A PERCENTAGE OR<br />
DOLLAR DISCOUNT<br />
When offering a discount, maximise the<br />
perceived value to give people the notion that<br />
they have the best deal possible. Take a ring<br />
listed at $50. Does a discount of 20 per cent or<br />
$10 sound better? The math indicates they are<br />
equal but the perceived value is not.<br />
In his book, Contagious: Why Things Catch On,<br />
Jonah Berger focuses on the “Rule of 100”.<br />
WHEN THE<br />
PRICE IS UNDER<br />
$100, USE A<br />
PERCENTAGE<br />
DISCOUNT. IF<br />
THE PRICE IS OVER<br />
$100, USE AN<br />
ABSOLUTE VALUE.<br />
FOR EXAMPLE,<br />
20 PER CENT OFF<br />
SOUNDS GREATER<br />
THAN $10<br />
OFF $50.<br />
READERS OF EMAILS WANT A DISCOUNT<br />
When the price is under $100, use a<br />
percentage discount. If the price is over $100,<br />
use an absolute value. In the above example,<br />
20 per cent off sounds greater than $10 off.<br />
CHOOSE THE COUPON TYPE<br />
There are many coupon types. Some of the<br />
popular ones are referral coupons, bounceback<br />
coupons, new customer coupons, VIP,<br />
exclusive, and large-purchase coupons.<br />
• Referral coupons – according to The New<br />
York Times, 65 per cent of new business<br />
comes from referrals but the numbers<br />
don’t just stop there. Nielsen follows this<br />
statistic by claiming that people are four<br />
times more likely to buy when referred by<br />
a friend. Tap into your existing customer<br />
base by giving a discount to referrers as<br />
well as new customers.<br />
• Bounce-back coupons – these take the<br />
traditional coupon to the next level by<br />
requiring a customer to use them on a<br />
return visit. The goal with a bounce-back<br />
coupon is simple: give your customers<br />
a reason to return. Because of this<br />
limitation, bounce-back coupons are<br />
great to distribute during the holidays<br />
and other periods of high volume to<br />
assist in growing transactions during the<br />
slower months that follow. For example,<br />
share a bounce-back coupon during the<br />
Valentine’s Day rush that must be used in<br />
<strong>March</strong> or April.<br />
• New customer coupons – since 70 per<br />
cent of email readers open emails in<br />
search of a discount or deal, it makes sense<br />
to give a coupon in the first email they<br />
receive. Welcome new customers to your<br />
store with a small discount or gift to give<br />
them a reason to continue opening your<br />
email newsletters.<br />
• VIP/exclusive offer coupons – rewarding<br />
your regular customers helps build brand<br />
loyalty. A quarterly email with a coupon<br />
attached to VIP customers will show that<br />
they are valued. Also target this type of<br />
campaign to frequent customers with<br />
lower individual-purchase amounts.<br />
• Large-purchase coupons – to help<br />
increase sales, offer customers a discount<br />
based on their total purchase amounts.<br />
Before the discount and amount can be<br />
determined, calculate your average dollar<br />
sale (ADS) to get a baseline for the typical<br />
purchase amount. After that, increase<br />
the minimum purchase amount for the<br />
coupon by 20-30 per cent and offer a<br />
small discount. It’s an easy way to reward<br />
people for spending more in your store.<br />
In conclusion, high-end retailers should<br />
experiment with promotions and determine<br />
what works best for their business and<br />
audience. The importance of maintaining<br />
brand image can’t be understated;<br />
however, completely avoiding coupons<br />
may be limiting the reach to potential new<br />
customers and restricting additional growth<br />
opportunities throughout the year. i<br />
BRIAN EWING is channel<br />
manager at SnapRetail!, an<br />
online marketing platform for<br />
small business owners. Learn<br />
more: snapretail.com<br />
<strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 43
LOGGED ON<br />
SOUND SOCIAL-MEDIA STRATEGY<br />
SUCCESSFUL SOCIAL MEDIA REQUIRES CAREFUL CONSIDERATION. DIGITAL MARKETING CONSULTANT SIMON DELL<br />
LISTS THE QUESTIONS THAT FIRMS SHOULD ASK BEFORE LAUNCHING ONLINE CONTENT STRATEGIES.<br />
Organisations often go headlong at<br />
social media strategy like a bull at a gate.<br />
Sometimes it’s because a CEO has seen sales<br />
flagging and has decided that the solution<br />
to better growth is a social presence.<br />
Other times competitors spur businesses<br />
into action and sometimes it’s just because<br />
social media has been in the pipeline for a<br />
while and has finally received the go ahead.<br />
Before embarking upon any social-media<br />
activity, managers should stop and<br />
consider these six core questions.<br />
ONLY WE…?<br />
A good social presence arises when a<br />
company or individual communicates to an<br />
audience a unique perspective on an issue<br />
related to their field of skills or a product or<br />
service that only they deliver.<br />
Think hard. What is it about your business<br />
that makes you stand out? What is it that<br />
makes your current customers buy from<br />
you? Why do they keep coming back? Is it<br />
because they love you or is it because they<br />
have no other choice?<br />
How does the company fit into the general<br />
marketplace? Is it a trusted legacy business<br />
or a fast-moving start-up?<br />
ARE YOU PREPARED TO PUBLISH?<br />
All the meetings and money in the world<br />
can’t sustain a strong social presence if<br />
the company isn’t prepared to provide the<br />
necessary engagement. For example, how<br />
does your company deal with negative<br />
comments on a public post? Do you panic<br />
and delete them? Do you fire off defensive<br />
or snappy responses? Do you offer a<br />
restrained reply?<br />
In short, do you have the processes in<br />
place to take those negative comments<br />
and use them to your benefit, growing and<br />
developing your business at the same time?<br />
Content through social channels needs to<br />
be entertaining, informative or both. Do you<br />
have the capacity to do that? Many brands<br />
attempt to be entertaining but lack the skills<br />
to execute this properly. Poor delivery isn’t<br />
going to convince and convert anyone.<br />
CAN YOU BE CONVERSATIONAL?<br />
Social media is a two-way street and<br />
businesses sometimes forget this. People<br />
want to ask you questions, whether it’s<br />
about the location and time of their next<br />
delivery or something more esoteric. Not all<br />
people are on social media to waste time;<br />
some are seeking information!<br />
Importantly, you want those users who ask<br />
questions to get the answers they need. To<br />
achieve this, your social-media presence<br />
needs to be able to successfully converse<br />
with potential customers.<br />
WHAT ARE COMPETITORS DOING?<br />
This is a basic question but one that can get<br />
overlooked. Businesses set out to do the<br />
best they can on social media but it’s not<br />
necessary to have the greatest page in the<br />
world, just to have a better page than your<br />
nearest competitor.<br />
A little market research goes a long way –<br />
study your competition to understand how<br />
you can do things better. Incorporate your<br />
findings into your strategy for a much easier<br />
pathway to social-media success.<br />
WHAT IS THE SOURCE OF OUR CONTENT?<br />
This is the biggie. Content is more than<br />
just the odd tweet; it needs to be rich and<br />
engaging. Where are you going to get that?<br />
Content is everywhere; there are<br />
innumerable sources and content types.<br />
Now, businesses don’t need to try to feature<br />
them all but they do need to choose a few<br />
and do them well.<br />
Pick three or four out of the list and smash<br />
them. Don’t try and do ten of them and<br />
end-up with a half-assed job. That’s almost<br />
worse than doing nothing at all.<br />
When you do create content, focus on<br />
WHAT’S THE BEST WAY TO BE CONVERSATIONAL ON SOCIAL MEDIA?<br />
PICK THREE OR<br />
FOUR OUT OF THE<br />
LIST AND SMASH<br />
THEM. DON’T TRY<br />
AND DO TEN OF<br />
THEM AND END-<br />
UP WITH A HALF-<br />
ASSED JOB<br />
making it searchable, in-depth, quotable<br />
and evergreen – it should still be relevant<br />
in a year’s time. If you can do that, you’ll<br />
find people will share it and you’ll start to<br />
position your business as an authority.<br />
WHAT IS SUCCESSFUL SOCIAL-MEDIA?<br />
There’s no point in any of this unless you<br />
have some sort of metric with which to<br />
measure your success. How would your<br />
company define success in the social-media<br />
space? Claiming ‘engagement’ as a metric is<br />
pointless. Engagement doesn’t sell things,<br />
no matter what other social media gurus<br />
out there might claim.<br />
Don’t be afraid to tie your activity to real<br />
sales metrics. How many new business<br />
enquiries do you get? How many times are<br />
current clients referring new clients to you?<br />
How many widgets have you sold?<br />
Don’t be afraid to use social media to deliver<br />
a call to action. Don’t do it all the time, of<br />
course, but don’t be scared off either. i<br />
SIMON DELL operates his<br />
own agency, focusing on<br />
digital marketing strategies<br />
and customer engagement.<br />
Learn more: simondell.com<br />
44 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong>
MY STORE<br />
STORE:<br />
CAROLINE NÉRON<br />
COUNTRY: Canada<br />
NAME: Caroline Néron<br />
POSITION: Founder, Caroline Néron<br />
When was the renovated<br />
space completed?<br />
Our flagship store in Laval, Quebec was<br />
renovated in April 2015.<br />
Who is the target market and how<br />
did they influence the store design?<br />
Our target market is the young and<br />
young at heart.<br />
The ever-evolving Millennial consumer’s<br />
lifestyle and experience of having<br />
visual access and catering to instant<br />
gratification through a shopping<br />
experience made us realise that our<br />
space needed to be not only welcoming<br />
but also easy to navigate.<br />
With the relationship between store<br />
ambience and consumer purchasing<br />
in mind, which features in the store<br />
encourage sales?<br />
We made sure that our store not<br />
only had a closed-in showcase that<br />
represented our stories and lifestyles<br />
correctly but that consumers also<br />
had access to our product through<br />
the tangible runway in the centre<br />
of our store.<br />
Consumers can gather to complete<br />
their shopping experience through<br />
touch and trial as if they were in<br />
their own closets, all with the helpful<br />
guidance of our sales associates.<br />
What is the store design’s ‘<br />
wow factor’?<br />
Our ‘wow’ factor is obviously our<br />
centre runway platform, which<br />
exudes the vision of our company,<br />
“Glamour with a bohemian spirit.”<br />
While fashion can be interpreted in<br />
many forms, we wished to provide<br />
a full circle experience through our<br />
campaigns, products and retail stores<br />
to the ever evolving consumer. i<br />
<strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 45
10 YEARS AGO<br />
WHAT WAS MAKING NEWS 10 YEARS AGO?<br />
A SNAPSHOT OF THE INDUSTRY EVENTS THAT MADE NEWS HEADLINES IN THE MARCH 2008 ISSUE OF JEWELLER.<br />
New look, new<br />
stores for Pandora<br />
The story: Pandora has launched a new<br />
marketing campaign and logo for 2008,<br />
aimed at reflecting a recent surge in the<br />
brand’s recognition. The logo is now<br />
headed by a crown, which “not only<br />
represents the status of this crowned-<br />
Danish brand, but represents a ring<br />
that hints at the endless universe that is<br />
Pandora’s range of jewellery.”<br />
The campaign replaces Pandora’s previous<br />
promotion, which featured fashion<br />
magazine editors creating their own<br />
Pandora bracelets.<br />
Australian Press Council sides<br />
with JAA over poll reports<br />
The story: The Australian Press Council (APC) has<br />
upheld a complaint from the JAA against Fairfax<br />
media, and ordered the publisher to print “an<br />
adjudication in full detail”.<br />
The Sydney Morning Herald’s website ran a story about<br />
a survey conducted by the Diamond Certification<br />
Laboratory of Australia (DCLA) that claimed 70 per<br />
cent of consumers suspect they are being “ripped<br />
off” when they buy diamonds, and do not trust<br />
jewellers. A similar story was also published on News<br />
Limited’s online news site (news.com.au).<br />
The JAA promptly challenged both Fairfax and<br />
News Limited, complaining that the online poll<br />
was open-access, uncontrolled and flawed with<br />
inaccuracies.<br />
The APC statement said: “While DCLA may well be<br />
an expert on diamonds, its press release did not<br />
state its own views about the honesty of jewellers,<br />
but rather those of an unknown number of people<br />
attracted to an online poll.”<br />
VALE: DR GRAHAM BROWN<br />
The story: The Australian<br />
gemmological and jewellery<br />
industries are mourning the<br />
passing of gemmologist Grahame<br />
Brown. Aged 71, he died of<br />
cancer on January 15 at Wesley<br />
Hospital, Brisbane.<br />
The editor of Australian Gemmologist<br />
and author of more than 500<br />
published gemmological papers,<br />
Brown will be remembered not only<br />
for his significant contribution to<br />
the worldwide gemmological<br />
community but also as a good<br />
friend and mentor to many.<br />
In 1978, Brown was awarded the<br />
first GAA Research Diploma for<br />
investigations into the structure<br />
and properties of precious corals.<br />
He was also awarded the GAA’s<br />
highest accolade of Honorary Life<br />
Membership in 1990.<br />
Palloys under new management<br />
The story: Australia’s oldest casting service has<br />
changed hands. Palloys has been purchased by the<br />
Cochineas family in a deal set to ensure all Palloys’<br />
staff – including former owner Norm Kay – will remain<br />
employed by the business.<br />
“This is an exciting period. Our new partners bring<br />
fresh ideas that will only improve our customer<br />
offering with improved designs, CAD CAM services<br />
and better quality,” Kay said.<br />
New director Andrew Cochineas is equally excited by<br />
the move: “Palloys is highly-respected in the trade for<br />
providing quality castings within short time frames.<br />
It is a pleasure to be working with the best in the<br />
business,” he said.<br />
46 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong>
EVENTS<br />
JEWELLERY AND WATCH CALENDAR<br />
A GUIDE TO THE LOCAL AND INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY AND WATCH EVENTS SCHEDULED TO TAKE PLACE IN THE YEAR AHEAD.<br />
MARCH <strong>2018</strong><br />
JEWELLERY SALON<br />
Odessa, Ukraine<br />
<strong>March</strong> 1–4<br />
Learn more: expo-odessa.com/ru/ovystavke-us-vesna-<strong>2018</strong><br />
HONG KONG<br />
INTERNATIONAL<br />
JEWELLERY SHOW<br />
Hong Kong<br />
<strong>March</strong> 1–5<br />
Learn more: m.hktdc.com/fair/<br />
hkjewellery-en/HKTDC-Hong-Kong-<br />
International-<strong>Jeweller</strong>y-Show.html<br />
JA INTERNATIONAL<br />
JEWELRY SHOW<br />
New York, US<br />
<strong>March</strong> 11–13<br />
Learn more: ja-newyork.com<br />
MANUFACTURING<br />
JEWELERS AND SUPPLIERS<br />
OF AMERICA EXPO<br />
New York, US<br />
<strong>March</strong> 11–13<br />
Learn more: mjsa.org/eventsprograms/<br />
mjsa_expo<br />
AMBERIF - INTERNATIONAL<br />
FAIR OF AMBER, JEWELRY<br />
AND GEMSTONES<br />
Gdansk, Poland<br />
<strong>March</strong> 21–24<br />
Learn more: amberif.amberexpo.pl/<br />
ISTANBUL JEWELRY SHOW<br />
Istanbul, Turkey<br />
<strong>March</strong> 22–25<br />
Learn more: march.<br />
istanbuljewelryshow.com/en-us/<br />
BASELWORLD<br />
Basel, Switzerland<br />
<strong>March</strong> 22–27<br />
Learn more: baselworld.com<br />
COOBER PEDY GEM<br />
TRADE SHOW<br />
Coober Pedy, South Australia<br />
<strong>March</strong> 31 – April 1<br />
Learn more:<br />
cooberpedygemtradeshow.com.au/<br />
Home.aspx<br />
APRIL <strong>2018</strong><br />
PALAKISS<br />
Trade and delivery jewellery show Italy<br />
Vicenza, Italy<br />
April 7–9<br />
Learn more: palakisstore.com/en<br />
NATIONWIDE JEWELLERS<br />
ANTWERP TRIP<br />
Antwerp, Belgium<br />
April 8–13<br />
SHOWCASE JEWELLERS<br />
INDIA TRIP<br />
India<br />
April 15– 26<br />
MAY <strong>2018</strong><br />
GAA 71ST FEDERAL<br />
CONFERENCE AND<br />
SEMINAR<br />
HOBART, AUSTRALIA<br />
May 3–6<br />
Learn more: gem.org.au<br />
NATIONWIDE JEWELLERS<br />
AFRICA TRIP<br />
Africa<br />
May 3–11<br />
JUNE <strong>2018</strong><br />
JCK LAS VEGAS<br />
Las Vegas, US<br />
June 1–4<br />
Learn more: lasvegas.jckonline.com<br />
HONG KONG JEWELLERY &<br />
GEM FAIR<br />
Hong Kong<br />
June 21–24<br />
Learn more: jewellerynetasia.com<br />
JULY <strong>2018</strong><br />
WINTON OPAL<br />
TRADESHOW<br />
Winton, QLD<br />
July 13–14<br />
Learn more: qboa.com.au<br />
LIGHTNING RIDGE OPAL<br />
AND GEM FESTIVAL<br />
Lightning Ridge, NSW<br />
July 26–29<br />
Learn more: lightningridgeopalfestival.<br />
com.au<br />
AUGUST <strong>2018</strong><br />
AUSTRALIAN OPAL<br />
EXHIBITION<br />
Gold Coast, Australia<br />
August 2–3<br />
Learn more: austopalexpo.com.au<br />
LEADING EDGE GROUP<br />
JEWELLERS MEMBER AND<br />
SUPPLIER CONFERENCE<br />
Sydney, Australia<br />
TBA<br />
SHOWCASE JEWELLERS<br />
MEMBER AND SUPPLIER<br />
CONFERENCE<br />
Hunter Valley, NSW<br />
August 20–24<br />
NATIONWIDE JEWELLERS<br />
MEMBER EVENTS<br />
(in conjunction with International<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair)<br />
Sydney, Australia<br />
August 25–27<br />
INTERNATIONAL<br />
JEWELLERY FAIR<br />
Sydney, Australia<br />
August 25–27<br />
Learn more: jewelleryfair.com.<br />
au/<strong>2018</strong><br />
SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong><br />
INTERNATIONAL<br />
JEWELLERY LONDON<br />
London, UK<br />
September 2–4<br />
Learn more: jewellerylondon.com<br />
HONG KONG WATCH &<br />
CLOCK FAIR<br />
Hong Kong, China<br />
September 4–8<br />
Learn more: m.hktdc.com/fair/<br />
hkwatchfair-en/HKTDC-Hong-Kong-<br />
Watch-and-Clock-Fair.html<br />
<strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 47
MY BENCH<br />
Kosta Theochari<br />
WORKS AT: MDTdesign<br />
AGE: 32<br />
YEARS IN TRADE: 16 years<br />
TRAINING: Certificate III in<br />
jewellery manufacture<br />
FIRST JOB: MDTdesign in<br />
2003<br />
OTHER QUALIFICATIONS:<br />
Practical diamond grading<br />
Favourite gemstone:<br />
I am in love with all<br />
diamonds. My favourite is<br />
high colour fancy yellow,<br />
each stone is unique and<br />
individual.<br />
Favourite metal:<br />
I love working in platinum<br />
as it poses more challenges<br />
than gold. The weight, look<br />
and feel is so much nicer!<br />
Favourite tool:<br />
I love my saw frame, as<br />
it is very old and I keep<br />
replacing components to<br />
keep it alive.<br />
Best new tool discovery:<br />
Laser welder is a great<br />
piece of machinery to have,<br />
especially when it comes to<br />
delicate re-tips.<br />
Best part of job:<br />
Remaking customers’ old<br />
pieces into something new<br />
and modern, and giving<br />
their old stones a new look!<br />
Worst part of job:<br />
Customers needing an<br />
engagement ring yesterday.<br />
Best tip from a jeweller:<br />
Aim for every component of<br />
the ring to be 100 per cent<br />
perfect. If every component<br />
is only 98 per cent perfect<br />
you will end up with a ring<br />
only 50 per cent perfect.<br />
Best tip to a jeweller:<br />
Learn to set your<br />
own stones.<br />
Love jewellery because:<br />
It has so much meaning,<br />
and resembles important<br />
points of people’s lives. i
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SOAPBOX<br />
A FAIR GO FOR GOLD<br />
During my early days as a jeweller,<br />
troubling images of filthy mines with<br />
poor working conditions prompted me<br />
to research alternative gold sources. This<br />
led me to become Australia’s first licensed<br />
supplier of Fairtrade Certified Gold, a<br />
qualification which guarantees the gold<br />
I work with has been mined and sold<br />
according to Fairtrade standards.<br />
However, there is confusion about what<br />
Fairtrade Gold is. Basically, Fairtrade gold is<br />
just gold! It doesn’t differ in composition<br />
or quality to gold from any other source.<br />
The difference is that Fairtrade Gold has the<br />
power to create better opportunities for<br />
disadvantaged miners and communities.<br />
Around 90 percent of the world’s gold<br />
producing workforce is made up of artisanal<br />
and small-scale miners (ASM). There are 16<br />
million of these miners and almost all of<br />
them work in illegal conditions with little<br />
access to sanitation or education.<br />
Often, ASM gold ends up being sold at<br />
as low as 70 percent of the international<br />
market price. Because of this, these miners<br />
are trapped in a cycle of poverty. They<br />
have no money to invest in improving their<br />
operations and no way of creating more<br />
efficient, sustainable mining practices.<br />
Without safe methods for gold extraction, in<br />
many cases they are forced to spend their<br />
days standing in pools of mercury.<br />
International laws protect those involved in<br />
large-scale mining and prevent hazardous<br />
practices like the unsafe use of mercury; but<br />
in practice, these laws do nothing to benefit<br />
small-scale miners.<br />
While most gold from bullion dealers in<br />
Australia is sourced from big mines which<br />
meet environmental guidelines and<br />
approved OHS standards, the point of using<br />
Fairtrade gold is to support change in an<br />
area that desperately needs it.<br />
Fairtrade gold is still sourced from small<br />
scale, artisanal mines, however there is a<br />
major difference; the miners are guaranteed<br />
a fair price for their efforts. Premiums paid<br />
by buyers are provided to the administrators<br />
to spend on improving their business, or on<br />
projects that benefit their local community.<br />
Fairtrade assistance allows formerly illegal<br />
miners to be registered and to receive<br />
appropriate training and support. The result<br />
is better, more efficient business practices<br />
and the opportunity to generate more sales<br />
on better terms.<br />
Our business uses gold sourced from the<br />
Sotrami mine in Peru, which is one of only<br />
a handful of mines to be Fairtrade accredited.<br />
Sotrami began with just a few workers in the<br />
1980s and now supports a village of 3,000<br />
people. It is cooperatively owned and the<br />
workers run a committee that enables them<br />
to hold the administrators accountable. In<br />
accordance with Fairtrade principles, a fixed<br />
proportion of profits go to the community,<br />
mainly to help provide water and electricity.<br />
The pay at Sotrami is good by industry<br />
standards. Those in charge of the mine have<br />
made a conscious attempt to minimise<br />
environmental impact by avoiding the use<br />
of mercury and controlling the use of other<br />
chemicals.<br />
IN ACCORDANCE<br />
WITH FAIRTRADE<br />
PRINCIPLES, A<br />
FIXED PROPORTION<br />
OF PROFITS GO TO<br />
THE COMMUNITY,<br />
MAINLY TO HELP<br />
PROVIDE WATER<br />
AND ELECTRICITY<br />
Many of my clients get in touch because<br />
their own search for ethical products has led<br />
them to my website. They come to me with<br />
numerous questions about Fairtrade gold<br />
and ethically sourced gemstones, which I am<br />
pleased to answer.<br />
My customers are very informed and I take<br />
pride in being able to share my knowledge<br />
with them.<br />
They leave delighted, not only because<br />
they have a one-of-a-kind wedding or<br />
engagement ring, but also because they are<br />
thrilled to have an ethical Fairtrade product<br />
with a positive story behind it. In most cases,<br />
they don’t mind paying the small premium in<br />
return for knowing the gold in their ring was<br />
ethically sourced.<br />
Fairtrade is inching its way towards the<br />
mainstream. I am looking forward to a future<br />
where more providers are proud to tell their<br />
clients that their gold has been mined with a<br />
lower impact to the planet, and in a way that<br />
benefits the people who source it.<br />
Fairtrade gold is available in 24ct grain,<br />
18ct white and yellow stock gauge, and is<br />
available from Fairtrade certified bullion<br />
dealers in the UK and Europe.<br />
Applying for a license is a fairly simply<br />
process managed through Fairtrade Australia.<br />
More: fairtrade.com.au i<br />
Name: Zoё Pook<br />
Business: Zoё Pook<br />
Position: Owner<br />
Location: Wahroonga, NSW<br />
Years in the industry: 12<br />
50 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>March</strong> <strong>2018</strong>
Seeing is believing<br />
See a world of spectacular and original jewellery at the International <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair<br />
Sparkling business opportunities, insights, inspiration and the latest global trends<br />
Meet face to face with peers and industry groups<br />
pms 2935 C<br />
pms 2935 C<br />
August 25 > 27, <strong>2018</strong><br />
ICC Sydney > Exhibition Centre > Darling Harbour<br />
Organised by
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A delicious range of natural<br />
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set with sparkling white diamonds,<br />
available in every colour of the rainbow.<br />
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SAMS GROUP<br />
AUSTRALIA<br />
E pink@samsgroup.com.au W samsgroup.com.au P 02 9290 2199<br />
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