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URBAN VILLAGE: WINTER 2017/2018<br />

20 26<br />

EASTSIDE<br />

More diverse and eclectic than any other West<br />

Hollywood neighborhood, the Eastside is experiencing<br />

a resurgence thanks to new development<br />

and new people moving in.<br />

32 38<br />

WEHO HEIGHTS<br />

<strong>The</strong> Sunset Strip! Nightlife! Clubs! Restaurants!<br />

Shops! <strong>The</strong> glitz and glamour of the world- famous<br />

Sunset Strip draw millions each year.<br />

44<br />

TRI-WEST<br />

Compact and densely populated, Tri-West is the<br />

second smallest of West Hollywood’s seven<br />

neighborhoods, but the fourth most populated.<br />

54<br />

NORMA TRIANGLE<br />

One would never guess while driving through<br />

West Hollywood that there is a quaint, picturesque<br />

neighborhood tucked behind the Pavilions<br />

supermarket on Santa Monica Boulevard.<br />

CENTER CITY<br />

<strong>The</strong> most populous of the West Hollywood neighborhoods,<br />

Center City is home to one fifth of the<br />

city’s 37,000 people.<br />

WEST HOLLYWOOD NORTH<br />

Sandwiched between the gritty glitz of the Sunset Strip<br />

and the flashy flamboyance of Boystown lies the West<br />

Hollywood North neighborhood.<br />

48<br />

WEST HOLLYWOOD WEST<br />

West Hollywood’s answer to Mayberry is the West<br />

Hollywood West neighborhood. <strong>The</strong> neighbors know<br />

one another (and their pets) in this cluster of mostly<br />

single family homes.<br />

58<br />

A PALM SPRINGS GETAWAY<br />

Your body relaxes as your mind releases its grip<br />

on your workaday obsessions. <strong>The</strong> smile on your<br />

face is real. You’re only minutes from spending a<br />

weekend in the oasis known as Palm Springs.


WEST HOLLYWOOD MAGAZINE<br />

IS WEST HOLLYWOOD AN URBAN<br />

VILLAGE?<br />

rants and grocery stores on the east side<br />

of Santa Monica Boulevard. If celebrity<br />

is what thrills you there are restaurants<br />

That depends on how you define the<br />

term, which emerged in the 1980s. Its<br />

most prominent early user was the<br />

U.K.’s Prince of Wales, who outlined the<br />

concept in his book “A Vision for Britain.”<br />

such as Craig’s and Catch you can visit.<br />

Missing New York City’s Jewish cuisine?<br />

Stop by Greenblatt’s on Sunset Boulevard,<br />

known since its opening in 1926<br />

for its homemade matzo ball soup and<br />

Reuben and corned beef sandwiches.<br />

(And of course there is the classic Can-<br />

PUBLISHER/EDITOR-IN-CHIEF<br />

Henry E. (Hank) Scott<br />

henry@westhollywoodmag.net<br />

CREATIVE DIRECTOR<br />

Allana Johnson<br />

allana@yokcreative.com<br />

SALES & MARKETING DIRECTOR<br />

Doug Stichler<br />

Doug@WeHoMediaCo.com<br />

CONTRIBUTORS<br />

James Mills: Writer (<strong>The</strong> <strong>Urban</strong> <strong>Village</strong>)<br />

Michael Jortner: Writer (<strong>The</strong> Getaway:<br />

Palm Springs)<br />

Edward Ipp: Copy Editor<br />

<strong>Urban</strong> planners denote an urban village<br />

as a place with medium-density housing,<br />

zoning that allows for both homes<br />

and business, good public transportation<br />

and an emphasis on walkability<br />

and public space such as parks. <strong>The</strong> City<br />

of West Hollywood meets all those criteria,<br />

although we have some work to do<br />

on public transit (Metro is coming, eventually).<br />

BUT PERHAPS MOST IMPORTANT,<br />

IS THAT WEST HOLLYWOOD IS<br />

A PLACE WHERE PEOPLE GET TO<br />

KNOW THEIR NEIGHBORS AND<br />

CARE ABOUT THEIR NEIGHBOR-<br />

HOODS.<br />

tor’s on Fairfax Avenue, part of what we<br />

call Greater WeHo).<br />

If you live in and love West Hollywood<br />

because it’s an urban village, there are<br />

ways to take advantage of that. One is<br />

to join one of the city’s many neighborhood<br />

associations, which are mentioned<br />

in the stories that follow. Another is to<br />

sign up for one of the 17 Neighborhood<br />

Watch groups. <strong>The</strong> purpose of those<br />

groups is getting neighbors to work together<br />

to reduce crime. Joining them<br />

also is a great way to make friends who<br />

care as much about their neighborhood<br />

as you do. You can find a list of them<br />

on the city’s website at http://www.<br />

weho.org/services/public-safety/neighborhood-watch/neighborhood-watch-<br />

By Henry E. (Hank) Scott<br />

Hank Scott is editor and<br />

publisher of WEHOville.<br />

com and West Hollywood<br />

Magazine.<br />

ADVERTISING<br />

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advertising@westhollywoodmag.net<br />

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Who could imagine that a city that<br />

spans only 1.89 square miles could have<br />

seven officially designated neighborhoods?<br />

And then there are the various<br />

business districts -- the Sunset Strip,<br />

Boystown, the Design District and those<br />

that haven’t yet been labeled on the<br />

city’s Eastside and Center City.<br />

groups.<br />

All in all, the best way to enjoy WeHo’s<br />

urban village vibe is to walk its sidewalks<br />

rather than drive and remember<br />

to stop from time to time and bend down<br />

and say hello to your neighbors’ dogs.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re’s no better way to become part of<br />

the West Hollywood family!<br />

<strong>The</strong> fact that West Hollywood is the central<br />

location in an urban community<br />

that includes downtown Los Angeles,<br />

Beverly Hills, Culver City, Glendale and<br />

Pasadena also reinforces its urbanity.<br />

West Hollywood is also a cosmopolitan<br />

village. You can get a literal taste of Eastern<br />

Europe by stopping by the restau-<br />

WHMC, 1138 Hacienda Place, No. 211,<br />

West Hollywood, CA 90069. 323.454.7707.<br />

16<br />

THE URBAN VILLAGE: WINTER 2017/2018 17


18 THE URBAN VILLAGE: WINTER 2017/2018<br />

WEHO’S 7 NEIGHBORHOODS<br />

EXPLORE WEHO


astsideMORE DIVERSE<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE DYLAN APARTMENTS PHOTO COURTESYOF THE HUXLEY<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF AVALON<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF LORELEY THE BEER GARDEN<br />

AND ECLECTIC THAN ANY OTHER WEST HOLLYWOOD NEIGHBORHOOD<br />

MORE DIVERSE AND ECLECTIC<br />

THAN ANY OTHER WEST<br />

HOLLYWOOD NEIGHBORHOOD,<br />

THE EASTSIDE IS EXPERIENC-<br />

ING A RESURGENCE THANKS TO<br />

NEW DEVELOPMENT AND NEW<br />

PEOPLE MOVING IN.<br />

Made up of the areas south of Fountain<br />

Avenue and north of Willoughby Avenue,<br />

between Fairfax Avenue and La<br />

Brea Avenue, the Eastside is the panhandle<br />

of West Hollywood (or the gun<br />

barrel if you prefer to view the city as<br />

shaped like a gun).<br />

“<strong>The</strong> Eastside is a vibrant, exciting<br />

place to be,” says longtime resident<br />

Tod Hallman. “It’s experiencing a revitalization,<br />

and I am hopeful for the<br />

possibilities of things that are going to<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF DOMAIN WEHO<br />

TOD HALLMAN<br />

happen. But at the same time, there’s a<br />

lot of history and a lot of neighborhood<br />

here too.”<br />

With four large retail-residential buildings<br />

(the Dylan, Huxley, Avalon and<br />

Domain) having opened in the past<br />

three years, the face of the Eastside<br />

has changed dramatically in<br />

the area near La Brea. But longtime<br />

resident Mike Dolan says<br />

those six- and seven-story buildings<br />

are helping give the Eastside<br />

the feeling of a city, and also<br />

helping it move away from its<br />

grittier past, which is still evident<br />

on some stretches of Santa Monica<br />

Boulevard.<br />

“<strong>The</strong>re’s an energy on the street that’s<br />

been missing until recently,” says Dolan.<br />

“It feels like the Eastside has finally<br />

grown up. Those big buildings [along La<br />

Brea and Santa Monica Boulevard] create<br />

a city effect.”<br />

Indeed, the Eastside is no longer a sleepy<br />

place. Clubs like Harlowe (7321 Santa<br />

Monica Boulevard, at Fuller Avenue)<br />

and Bar Lubitsch (7702 Santa Monica<br />

Boulevard, at Stanley Avenue) are bringing<br />

nightlife to the Eastside. Meanwhile,<br />

Loreley (1201 La Brea, at Lexington), the<br />

German beer garden that opened in late<br />

2016, draws people from the neighborhood<br />

and beyond.<br />

20 THE URBAN VILLAGE: WINTER 2017/2018 21<br />

MIKE DOLAN


Single<br />

GAY AND STRAIGHT,<br />

Women<br />

YOUNG AND OLD<br />

A “HIPSTER” CROWD OF YOUNG, UPWARDLY MOBILE PEOPLE,<br />

ESPECIALLY UPWARDLY MOBILE SINGLE WOMEN.<br />

With these changes, the Eastside is also experiencing<br />

an identity crisis. “What you’re seeing on the<br />

Eastside is a lot of different realities,” explains Steve<br />

Martin, who moved to the Eastside in 2014 from the<br />

Tri-West neighborhood. “Long-term residents are<br />

having one experience, while the new people moving<br />

in are having a different experience. <strong>The</strong>y’re not<br />

connected to the businesses that used to be there.<br />

<strong>The</strong>y’re not looking back with nostalgia, but are<br />

looking forward and seeing the possibilities for the<br />

area.”<br />

<strong>The</strong> area was once made up almost entirely of Craftsmen-style<br />

and Spanish Colonial revival single-family<br />

homes. Over the decades, apartment buildings replaced<br />

many of those homes, but enough remain to<br />

give you the idea of what the area looked like a century<br />

ago.<br />

With Hollywood surrounding the Eastside on three<br />

sides, many think of it as more a part of Hollywood<br />

than West Hollywood. In fact, back in 2010 when<br />

Adam Bass moved into an apartment on the Eastside<br />

from the nearby Fairfax district in Los Angeles, he<br />

proudly told his friends he had moved into West Hollywood<br />

proper. However, when he told them he was<br />

living on Ogden Drive, many of them responded,<br />

“That’s not West Hollywood. No, you live nearby.”<br />

Even when people thought of the Eastside as part of<br />

West Hollywood proper, they tended to view it more<br />

as an “ugly stepchild.” That attitude likely arose in<br />

large part because of the industrial businesses once<br />

based on the Eastside, like a cement factory and a<br />

plating shop. Similarly, many businesses that supported<br />

the motion picture industry were housed<br />

here.<br />

Ruth Williams, who has lived on the Eastside since<br />

1948, reports the area was originally referred to as<br />

the “East End.” Shortly after West Hollywood was<br />

incorporated in 1984, she pushed to have it called<br />

the “Eastside” to match calling the other end of the<br />

city as the “Westside.”<br />

“I felt the names should be equal, Westside and Eastside,”<br />

says Williams. “I took offense at calling it the<br />

East End. That name gave the feeling it was ‘less<br />

than’ the Westside.”<br />

<strong>The</strong> Eastside is where many Russian emigrants settled<br />

in the last half of the 20th Century. Even today,<br />

many signs in the area are still written in both Russian<br />

and English. Likewise, many businesses<br />

still cater to the Russian community.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re’s even a Russian library<br />

near Plummer Park.<br />

That Russian influence helps give the<br />

area a different feel from other parts<br />

of the city. Life moves at a slower pace<br />

and family plays a much more significant<br />

role on the Eastside. This is the<br />

part of town where you’ll find a wider<br />

cross-section of generations, from babies<br />

to great grandparents, all living together,<br />

or near each other.<br />

<strong>The</strong> area also has a strong mix of gay<br />

and straight, young and old, married<br />

and single, as well as many other ethnicities.<br />

As the Russian population is<br />

dying off, or moving away, they are<br />

being replaced a “hipster” crowd of<br />

young, upwardly mobile people, especially<br />

upwardly mobile single women.<br />

“<strong>The</strong> new demographic is single<br />

women,” reports Mike Dolan. “A decade<br />

ago, you didn’t see many young, upwardly<br />

mobile women living here, but<br />

now you do.”<br />

<strong>The</strong> Eastside dates back to the 1870s<br />

when Captain Eugenio Plummer built<br />

a six-room, adobe-style house on his<br />

large ranchero, which extended all<br />

the way to what is now the Hollywood<br />

Bowl. Plummer gradually sold off parcels<br />

of his land and also allowed his<br />

backyard to be used as a community<br />

park where a dance pavilion and barbeque<br />

pits once stood.<br />

Today, Plummer Park is the centerpiece<br />

of the Eastside and plays a central role<br />

in the lives of many residents, much<br />

more so than the parks in other areas of<br />

town.<br />

“<strong>The</strong>re’s an old-world feeling to Plummer<br />

Park,” says Stephanie Harker who<br />

has lived beside the park for 35 years.<br />

“People use the park like they do parks<br />

in Europe. <strong>The</strong>y’ll spend the entire day<br />

there. <strong>The</strong>y meet their friends there.<br />

23


<strong>The</strong> park really is an extension of their<br />

living room.”<br />

Back in 2012, the city planned to close off<br />

the central portion of the park to dig a<br />

179-space underground parking garage as<br />

part of a $41 million makeover of Plummer<br />

Park. While some residents favored<br />

the upgrades, many others felt the extensive<br />

redesign would completely change<br />

the character of the neighborhood park.<br />

Harker successfully spearheaded an effort<br />

to halt the park construction just<br />

a few weeks before it was scheduled to<br />

begin, something that ultimately proved<br />

to be fortuitous as Sacramento snatched<br />

away a large portion of the park redevelopment<br />

money during a state budget crisis<br />

in 2012.<br />

“THERE’S A SENSE OF COMMUNITY THAT HAPPENS<br />

WHEN WE HAVE LARGE COMMUNITY GATHERINGS...”<br />

Now that the economy has improved, the<br />

city will likely soon begin holding public<br />

meetings to discuss a more modest park<br />

makeover.<br />

In the meantime, Plummer Park continues<br />

to be heavily used throughout the day.<br />

However, Adam Bass would like to see it<br />

used even more, wishing the city would<br />

use it more often for official functions and<br />

events.<br />

“<strong>The</strong>re’s a sense of community that happens<br />

when we have large community<br />

gatherings,” says Bass. “We could foster<br />

that more on the Eastside with more<br />

events in Plummer Park. We don’t always<br />

have to go to the Westside when we get together<br />

as a city for rallies and events.”<br />

Ruth Williams hopes the city will open a<br />

substation of the Sheriff’s department in,<br />

or near, Plummer Park. She notes that not<br />

only would response times be quicker, it<br />

would help the neighborhood feel more<br />

connected to the deputies.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Eastside is also home to one of the<br />

oldest motion picture studios in the region,<br />

Pickfair Studios, opened in 1919 and<br />

later acquired by stars Mary Pickford<br />

and Douglas Fairbanks. Located on the<br />

southwest corner of Santa Monica Boulevard<br />

and Formosa Avenue, today the studio<br />

is now known as <strong>The</strong> Lot. Films like<br />

“West Side Story” (1961), “Some Like It<br />

Hot” (1959), and “Wuthering Heights”<br />

(1939) were shot there. More recently, the<br />

TV series “True Blood” filmed at <strong>The</strong> Lot.<br />

While <strong>The</strong> Lot continues to do a lot of<br />

business, some residents wish the city<br />

would do something to honor the city’s<br />

motion picture history and the films shot<br />

there. Meanwhile, the Eastside is home to<br />

the only remaining movie theatre in the<br />

city limits, the Studs theatre (7734 Santa<br />

Monica Boulevard, at Spaulding Avenue),<br />

which is one of only two adult theatres<br />

in Greater Los Angeles and which shows<br />

both gay and straight porn films.<br />

With the new energy and new development<br />

happening, many hope it will bring<br />

in new restaurants and stores (several say<br />

they want to see clothing stores). Steve<br />

Martin reports the neighborhood desperately<br />

needs a good coffeeshop where people<br />

can linger over their laptops or meet<br />

up with friends. Ruth Williams says more<br />

neighborhood-serving businesses are<br />

needed like a dry cleaner or laundromat<br />

on the eastern side of the Eastside.<br />

A major problem confronting the Eastside<br />

is the homeless population. While homelessness<br />

is an issue throughout West Hollywood,<br />

it seems most pronounced on the<br />

Eastside, especially in Plummer Park.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Eastside has historically been a draw<br />

for the homeless. In the 1990s, there was<br />

a homeless shelter on the block where<br />

the Target now stands. Likewise, until a<br />

few years ago, the West Hollywood Food<br />

Coalition fed homeless people nightly at<br />

the corner of Romaine Street and Sycamore<br />

Avenue (just across the WeHo border<br />

in Los Angeles). Today, the Coalition<br />

still feeds the homeless there on weekend<br />

nights.<br />

Despite all that, the area is still home.<br />

Ruth Williams moved to the Eastside as<br />

a child and even after she married, opted<br />

to live on the Eastside. Tod Hallman first<br />

moved to the Eastside in the early 1980s.<br />

Over the years, he’s moved away several<br />

times (sometimes to other states, sometimes<br />

to other parts of Los Angeles), but<br />

keeps moving back to the Eastside. Both<br />

Williams and Hallman explain it simply,<br />

“<strong>The</strong> Eastside is home.”<br />

24<br />

THE URBAN VILLAGE: WINTER 2017/2018 25


enter City<br />

<strong>The</strong> most populous of the West<br />

Hollywood neighborhoods, Center<br />

City is home to one fifth of<br />

the city’s 37,000 people. Comprised<br />

of the areas below Sunset<br />

Boulevard to the city’s<br />

southern border (Waring Avenue,<br />

Willoughby Avenue or Romaine<br />

Street, depending on<br />

which block you’re on) between<br />

La Cienega Boulevard and Fairfax<br />

Avenue, Center City may be<br />

densely populated, but residents<br />

describe it as cozy and quiet.<br />

With tree-lined streets, the area<br />

feels residential, yet also urban<br />

since two major commercial<br />

corridors are nearby on Sunset<br />

Boulevard and Santa Monica<br />

Boulevard. It’s an easy place<br />

to get to know your neighbors,<br />

especially if you have a dog<br />

(which most people do).<br />

This is a neighborhood of renters.<br />

<strong>The</strong> vast majority of the<br />

buildings are apartments, although<br />

a few have been converted<br />

to condominiums. Only a<br />

handful of single-family homes<br />

or duplexes remain.<br />

“IT FEELS REAL, IT FEELS GRITTY...”<br />

#MOSTPOPULARNEIGHBORHOOD<br />

“This area tends to be younger because<br />

there are so many renters,” says<br />

Stacey Jones, who has lived in Center<br />

City for 12 years. “It’s also incredibly<br />

diverse because there are so many<br />

renters.”<br />

That’s not to say there aren’t longterm<br />

residents here. Nadia Sutton<br />

has lived in Center City for 22 years<br />

and wouldn’t consider living anywhere<br />

else. “It feels real, it feels gritty;<br />

there are some beautiful parts and<br />

some gritty parts,” says Sutton. “It’s<br />

not slick and shiny like Beverly Hills.<br />

It feels like a true neighborhood.”<br />

<strong>The</strong> styles of the apartment buildings<br />

range from contemporary to mid-century<br />

modern to Spanish Colonial revival<br />

to art deco to French Colonial revival<br />

to eclectic and everything in between.<br />

Oh sure, there are plenty of nondescript<br />

apartment buildings in the area, but<br />

there are also some true gems.<br />

NADIA SUTTON<br />

26<br />

THE URBAN VILLAGE: WINTER 2017/2018 27


“If you’re looking for architectural diversity<br />

in the apartment buildings,<br />

Center City is where you’ll find it,” says<br />

Rogerio Carvalheiro, an architect who<br />

has lived on Laurel Avenue in the historically<br />

designated Villa D’Este apartment<br />

building for the past three years.<br />

“Fountain Avenue and the adjacent<br />

streets have some of the most amazing<br />

buildings.”<br />

Nowhere is that range of architectural<br />

styles more evident on a single block<br />

than on Hayworth Avenue, where<br />

walking between Sunset and Fountain<br />

offers a time-capsule of the many<br />

styles popular over the decades.<br />

CENTER CITY BOASTS A HIS-<br />

TORIC “COURTYARD THE-<br />

MATIC DISTRICT,” CENTERED<br />

PRIMARILY ALONG HARPER<br />

AVENUE NORTH OF FOUN-<br />

TAIN, FEATURING AN<br />

ROGERIO CARVALHEIRO<br />

ARRAY OF COURTYARD-<br />

STYLE APARTMENT BUILD-<br />

INGS DATING BACK TO THE<br />

1920S AND 1930S.<br />

Center City also features a number of<br />

ornate, historically designated larger<br />

apartment buildings built in the 1920s<br />

and 1930s that were designed to appeal<br />

to people in the motion picture industry.<br />

Among them are La Fontaine<br />

(southwest corner of Fountain and<br />

Crescent Heights Boulevard), El Mirador<br />

(northeast corner of Fountain and<br />

Sweetzer Avenue), Colonial House (Havenhurst<br />

Avenue, near Sunset), Villa<br />

Italia (Crescent Heights at Norton Avenue)<br />

and Savoy Plaza (Crescent Height,<br />

near Sunset). <strong>The</strong> area is also home to<br />

the historically designated Schindler<br />

House. Built in 1922, this ahead-ofits-time,<br />

modern style home offered a<br />

radical departure from the contemporary<br />

concept of a single-family house.<br />

Located at 833 Kings Road, near Willoughby,<br />

the Schindler House is now<br />

home to the nonprofit MAK Center for<br />

Art and Architecture and is open for<br />

tours or private events.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THEMAK CENTER FOR ART AND ARCHITECTURE<br />

Center City is home to three small but<br />

heavily used parks – Kings Road Park,<br />

Laurel Park and Hart Park, which<br />

has the only dog park in the city. <strong>The</strong><br />

area also has two tiny parks, the Matthew<br />

Shepard Triangle (Santa Monica<br />

at Crescent Heights) and the Sal Guarriello<br />

Veterans Memorial (Santa Monica<br />

at Holloway Drive), both frequently<br />

used as gathering spots for protest rallies<br />

and other events.<br />

Two of those parks had long fights associated<br />

with their coming into existence.<br />

In the 1990s, the city planned to<br />

build low-income housing on the property<br />

at 1000 Kings Road, but residents<br />

fought to have it made into a park instead.<br />

In the 2000s, the city also planned to<br />

build low-income housing at 1343 Laurel<br />

Avenue, a property donated to the<br />

city by its elderly owner, Mrs. Elsie<br />

Weisman. While Weisman gave oral instructions<br />

(the house, which she called<br />

“Tara,” but is now known as “Laurel<br />

House,” and grounds were not to be developed),<br />

she failed to put those instructions<br />

in writing. As a result, a gigantic,<br />

eight-year battle over the fate of the<br />

property divided residents throughout<br />

the city, culminating with a lawsuit<br />

that went all the way to the California<br />

Supreme Court.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THEMAK CENTER FOR ART AND ARCHITECTURE<br />

28 THE URBAN VILLAGE: WINTER 2017/2018


8300 Santa Monica Boulevard,<br />

at Sweetzer. Behind<br />

City Hall is the “robo garage”<br />

opened in 2016, one of<br />

the few automated parking<br />

garages in operation on the<br />

West Coast.<br />

Parking is an issue throughout<br />

the city, but nowhere<br />

is there a greater shortage<br />

than in Center City. <strong>The</strong><br />

“robo garage” is providing<br />

much needed parking for<br />

the businesses along Santa<br />

Monica Boulevard, but it has<br />

done little to ease the severe<br />

parking shortage in the residential<br />

areas.<br />

Stacey Jones explains that<br />

many of the older apartment<br />

buildings do not have<br />

enough parking for all their<br />

tenants. Consequently,<br />

many residents are forced to<br />

park on the street. In fact,<br />

some residents say when<br />

they find a good<br />

parking space,<br />

they are reluctant<br />

to leave because they<br />

might not be able to find<br />

parking in the area when<br />

they return.<br />

“THE ABILITY TO<br />

WALK EVERYWHERE,<br />

BE IT THE SUPER-<br />

MARKET, RESTAU-<br />

RANTS OR STORES,<br />

IS WHAT IS SO GREAT<br />

ABOUT THIS AREA,”<br />

says longtime Center City<br />

resident Cynthia Blatt. “And<br />

if I need to drive, I’m halfway<br />

between everything I<br />

need to do.”<br />

While many businesses along<br />

Sunset Boulevard seem designed<br />

for the tourists, those<br />

along Santa Monica Boulevard<br />

seem oriented toward<br />

the residents. With lots of locally<br />

owned, mom-and-pop<br />

type shops and restaurants<br />

such as Marco’s Trattoria,<br />

the restaurant at 8200 Santa<br />

Monica, and Hector’s Tailor<br />

Shop at 8278 Santa Monica,<br />

this stretch of the boulevard<br />

feels like the city’s “downtown”<br />

especially with the<br />

presence of City Hall.<br />

“Center City is where you<br />

truly support local businesses,”<br />

notes Nadia Sutton.<br />

“And I hope it stays local.<br />

We don’t need chain stores<br />

there.”<br />

Carvalheiro wishes the sidewalks<br />

along Santa Monica<br />

Boulevard were a bit wider<br />

to “enhance the pedestrian<br />

experience.” Others would<br />

like to see more neighborhood-serving<br />

businesses,<br />

such as a tailor or shoe repair<br />

shop.<br />

Residents would also like<br />

to see speed bumps added<br />

to some of the residential<br />

streets to slow down traffic.<br />

<strong>The</strong>y also want the city<br />

to install more street lights<br />

on residential streets, or at<br />

least put in brighter bulbs<br />

and trim the trees near the<br />

street lights since some<br />

parts of the sidewalk can get<br />

very dark.<br />

CYTHIA BLATT<br />

As Cynthia Blatt, who has<br />

lived on Kings Road since<br />

1993, explains, when she<br />

leaves from visiting a friend<br />

who lives two blocks away,<br />

the friend always advises,<br />

“Walk in the middle of<br />

the street so no one<br />

can jump out and<br />

grab you.”<br />

While the low-income housing<br />

is no longer a consideration,<br />

exactly what the city<br />

will do with Laurel House<br />

has yet to be decided. At preliminary<br />

public meetings<br />

held in 2013 and 2014, residents<br />

seemed to favor making<br />

it into an arts center for<br />

art showings, author readings,<br />

music recitals, lectures,<br />

meetings, etc.<br />

In the meantime, the city<br />

opened Laurel Park in the<br />

property’s front yard and it<br />

quickly became a favorite<br />

gathering spot in the neighborhood.<br />

Carvalheiro reports<br />

that he and other dogowners<br />

in the area gather<br />

there nightly to catch up.<br />

West Hollywood City Hall<br />

is located in Center City at<br />

That forces a lot of people<br />

to walk in the area. But for<br />

some, that walkability is<br />

what drew them to the area.<br />

And if they live near Sunset,<br />

they get a good workout<br />

walking up the hill back to<br />

their apartment.<br />

“I really wanted to have<br />

that walking experience,”<br />

says Carvalheiro.<br />

“I didn’t want to have to<br />

get in my car to do everything<br />

and living on Laurel<br />

[Avenue] provided that.”<br />

30 THE URBAN VILLAGE: WINTER 2017/2018<br />

31


<strong>The</strong> Sunset Strip! Nightlife! Clubs! Restaurants!<br />

Shops! <strong>The</strong> glitz and glamour<br />

of the world- famous Sunset Strip draw<br />

millions each year. It’s also drawn<br />

thousands who make the West Hol-<br />

THE SUNSET STRIP! NIGHTLIFE! CLUBS!<br />

RESTAURANTS! SHOPS!<br />

THE GLITZ AND GLAMOUR OF THE WORLD- FAMOUS<br />

SUNSET STRIP DRAW MILLIONS EACH YEAR.<br />

THE PLEASURE CHEST<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE PLEASURE CHEST<br />

lywood Heights neighborhood their<br />

home.<br />

“<strong>The</strong> Sunset Strip is the most exciting<br />

part of West Hollywood,” says Elyse<br />

Eisenberg, who moved to Horn Avenue<br />

in 1987. “I moved here to be closer to<br />

the Strip since I was spending all my<br />

time here anyway.”<br />

<strong>The</strong> smallest of the seven West Hollywood<br />

neighborhoods, West Hollywood<br />

Heights is the area of the city north of<br />

Sunset Boulevard. Made up of just five<br />

streets, this area has about 1,000 residential<br />

units, almost all apartments<br />

or condominiums, according to Eisenberg,<br />

who serves as chair of the Weho<br />

Heights Neighborhood Association.<br />

Only a handful of single-family homes<br />

remain in the area. A house on Horn<br />

Avenue, which at one time belonged<br />

to actress Bette Davis, was torn down<br />

a few years ago to make way for a fourstory,<br />

seven-unit condo building. Several<br />

more houses are slated for demolition<br />

to make way for more apartment<br />

or condo buildings.<br />

<strong>The</strong>se lush, tree-lined streets above<br />

the Strip offer fantastic views of the<br />

Los Angeles basin. Eisenberg can<br />

see Catalina from her condo. Despite<br />

being so close to the Strip, the<br />

area also offers a tranquil existence.<br />

Susan De Boismilon, who has<br />

lived on Clark Avenue since 1972,<br />

says the area is relatively quiet, especially<br />

the further up the hill you go.<br />

Condos in this neighborhood can sell<br />

for $1 million or more. Apartments are<br />

hard to find since people tend to stay<br />

after falling in love with the neighborhood.<br />

“It’s a very stable neighborhood,”<br />

says Eisenberg. “Very low turnover.<br />

I know most of my neighbors.”<br />

32 THE URBAN VILLAGE: WINTER 2017/2018<br />

33


JEROME CLEARY<br />

Above the Strip<br />

THE GLITZ AND GLAMOUR<br />

“THIS IS ONE OF THE FRIENDLIEST NEIGHBORHOODS IN<br />

TOWN,” SAYS LONGTIME RESIDENT JEROME CLEARY.<br />

“IF YOU HAVE A DOG, YOU REALLY GET TO KNOW ALL<br />

YOUR NEIGHBORS.”<br />

“This is one of the friendliest neighborhoods<br />

in town,” says longtime resident<br />

Jerome Cleary. “If you have a dog,<br />

you really get to know all your neighbors.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Coffee Bean has become the<br />

unofficial place where everyone in the<br />

neighborhood meets.”<br />

THE SUNSET STRIP IS KNOWN<br />

FOR ITS NIGHTLIFE AND<br />

WEHO HEIGHTS RESIDENTS<br />

ARE ADULT AS WELL.<br />

Eisenberg is not aware of any children<br />

under 18 living in the neighborhood.<br />

“This isn’t a neighborhood for<br />

raising kids,” says Cleary.<br />

<strong>The</strong> area boasts some of the finest<br />

restaurants in town, as well<br />

as some exclusive shops at Sunset<br />

Plaza such as Badgley Mischka,<br />

Philip Press and Zadig & Voltaire.<br />

It also is home to Book Soup,<br />

the last remaining English-language<br />

bookstore in West Hollywood<br />

(there is a Russian-language<br />

bookstore on Santa Monica Boulevard).<br />

Walking down the hill to the<br />

shops and back up keeps residents<br />

in good shape.<br />

What it lacks, residents say, is a<br />

park. “Green space is sorely missing,”<br />

says Eisenberg. It also lacks<br />

neighborhood-serving businesses<br />

like a tailor or dry cleaner. Or even a<br />

grocery store.<br />

<strong>The</strong> neighborhood coalesced in 2008 to<br />

successfully fight against the proposed<br />

Centrum Sunset office-retail building<br />

set to go into the old Tower Records<br />

building. While it took five years for<br />

the neighbors to defeat Centrum Sunset,<br />

the residents easily fought off a<br />

proposal to put a pre-school in the old<br />

Spago restaurant building earlier in<br />

2017.<br />

In both cases, the residents successfully<br />

argued that the steep, narrow Horn<br />

Avenue could not handle all the traffic<br />

that such businesses would generate.<br />

“We wanted some control over our destiny,”<br />

said Eisenberg. “We’re trapped<br />

up here. <strong>The</strong> only way out is Sunset. So<br />

we had to fight it.”<br />

While the ever increasing traffic is a<br />

concern throughout West Hollywood,<br />

nowhere is it a greater cause for concern<br />

than this neighborhood. <strong>The</strong><br />

streets of WeHo Heights only exit onto<br />

the perpetually jammed Sunset Boulevard.<br />

“Traffic on Sunset is horrendous now,<br />

even in the middle of the day,” says<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF ROKU WEST HOLLYWOOD<br />

De Boismilon. “It sometimes takes 30<br />

minutes to drive down the mile of the<br />

Strip. Is that really quality of life?”<br />

De Boismilon, who books entertainment<br />

for private events, reports clients<br />

are often loath to come to her offices on<br />

Sunset near Doheny Drive because of<br />

the traffic. “Our business has fallen because<br />

clients are reluctant to come to the<br />

office,” she says. “Luckily, we can do a lot<br />

of our business online now, but there is<br />

a huge difference between interacting<br />

with a client online versus in person.”<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF SKYBAR AT MONDRIAN PHOTO COURTESY OF BOA STEAKHOUSE<br />

34 THE URBAN VILLAGE: WINTER 2017/2018<br />

35


Parking is another major issue since<br />

the overwhelming majority of apartment/condo<br />

buildings don’t have any<br />

guest parking spaces, and street parking<br />

is usually taken up by residents because<br />

many buildings don’t even have<br />

enough parking for its residents.<br />

“I haven’t been able to have guests over<br />

to my apartment in 15 years,” says De<br />

Boismilon. “<strong>The</strong>re’s no place for them<br />

to park.”<br />

Even businesses on Sunset are feeling<br />

the parking pinch. While there are a<br />

few municipal lots, they don’t offer a<br />

lot of spaces. Eisenberg notes in 2012-<br />

2013, there was a Thursday night farmers’<br />

market with vendors, food trucks<br />

and live entertainment held in the cityowned<br />

parking lot near Horn Avenue.<br />

That farmers’ market was popular with<br />

the neighborhood residents who could<br />

walk down the hill to it, but ultimately<br />

failed in large part because of the parking<br />

issue.<br />

“<strong>The</strong> farmers’ market was being held<br />

in the largest [municipal] parking lot in<br />

the area, and people from outside the<br />

neighborhood were reluctant to pay $15<br />

or $20 for some of the private lots,” says<br />

Eisenberg.<br />

“ M O R E<br />

RESTAURANTS,<br />

CLUBS AND<br />

SHOPS COULD<br />

OPEN TOO.”<br />

While the city currently has no plans<br />

to build more municipal parking lots,<br />

come March 2018, it will begin a sixmonth<br />

test run of a free nighttime<br />

weekend shuttle along the Strip to encourage<br />

visitors.<br />

WeHo Heights residents are poised to<br />

fight a 72-foot-high billboard/art installation<br />

proposed to be erected in<br />

the municipal parking lot just east of<br />

the Sunset-Horn-Holloway intersection<br />

(the same parking lot where the<br />

farmers’ market was held). That installation<br />

will incorporate giant video<br />

screens that will show digital art displays<br />

as well as digital advertisements.<br />

Some are calling it an innovative, future-thinking<br />

idea, while others feel<br />

it will be an eyesore that will attract<br />

homeless people to the plaza the city<br />

intends to build around it.<br />

<strong>The</strong> future direction of Sunset is also<br />

in question. For several decades, the<br />

music<br />

business<br />

is what made<br />

Sunset sing – many<br />

record companies had<br />

offices on Sunset, new record releases<br />

were featured on billboards along<br />

the Strip and up-and-coming bands<br />

as well as established acts played the<br />

clubs, while the Tower Records’ flagship<br />

store anchored it all.<br />

Famous clubs like the Whisky a Go Go,<br />

the Viper Room and the Roxy are still<br />

around and doing relatively well, but<br />

the rest are long gone. Consequently,<br />

the music business is no longer a vital<br />

part of the Strip.<br />

Instead, Sunset Boulevard seems to be<br />

evolving into an area made up primarily<br />

of hotels. In addition to the existing<br />

hotels on the Strip, at least six other<br />

large, high-end hotels are proposed or<br />

under construction. While the hotels<br />

will add to the city’s coffers thanks to<br />

the hotel room taxes, Eisenberg and De<br />

Boismilon both wonder exactly what<br />

the attraction of staying on Sunset is<br />

going to be in a decade if it’s nothing<br />

but hotels.<br />

“What exactly are tourists going to<br />

do on the Strip?” asks De Boismilon.<br />

“Stay at one hotel and go visit the one<br />

next door?”<br />

Eisenberg hopes the city will build a large<br />

municipal parking lot(s) along Sunset to<br />

support the businesses and residents.<br />

“If parking were easier, the existing<br />

businesses could thrive,” she says.<br />

36 THE URBAN VILLAGE: WINTER 2017/2018<br />

37


WeHo<br />

ECLECTIC, DYNAMIC AND PASSIONATE.<br />

North<br />

SANDWICHED BETWEEN THE GRITTY GLITZ OF THE SUNSET STRIP AND THE<br />

FLASHY FLAMBOYANCE OF BOYSTOWN LIES THE WEST HOLLYWOOD NORTH<br />

NEIGHBORHOOD. AS ONE MIGHT EXPECT WITH THOSE TWO FAMOUS STREETS<br />

AS YOUR EDGES, THE NEIGHBORHOOD IS ECLECTIC AND DYNAMIC .<br />

THE NEIGHBORHOOD’S<br />

OFFICIAL BOUNDARIES ARE<br />

SUNSET AND SANTA MONICA<br />

BOULEVARDS TO THE NORTH<br />

AND SOUTH, SAN VICENTE<br />

BOULEVARD TO THE WEST AND<br />

LA CIENEGA BOULEVARD TO<br />

T H E E A S T.<br />

“What’s so great about West Hollywood North is its<br />

proximity to everything,” says Sam Borelli, who has<br />

lived in the neighborhood for 15 years. “You’re just<br />

steps away from the cosmopolitan areas of Sunset<br />

and Santa Monica Boulevards. But Melrose is also<br />

within walking distance. So is City Hall and things<br />

further east. I’m someone who doesn’t like to drive,<br />

so this is the perfect place for me.”<br />

For Tai Sunnanon, who moved to Alta Loma Drive<br />

three years ago, the excitement of the Sunset Strip<br />

was always a lure.<br />

“As a kid passing through the Sunset Strip and seeing<br />

the lights, I used to say to myself, ‘Wow, wouldn’t<br />

it be great to live here one day,’ and now I do,” says<br />

Sunnanon. “I love the fact that there are all these<br />

restaurants and burger joints and coffee joints on<br />

Sunset, just minutes from me, but I still live on a<br />

quiet residential street.”<br />

Meanwhile, for Joe Brighton, who moved to Palm Avenue<br />

a year ago, living in the gay ghetto is a dream<br />

come true.<br />

“Coming from a small Texas town, the idea of someday<br />

living in a gayborhood and being able to be completely<br />

out kept me going,” says Brighton. “When I<br />

finished college, this is where I came.”<br />

West Hollywood North has two distinct parts – western<br />

(closer to San Vicente) and eastern (closer to<br />

La Cienega). Residents on the western side tend to<br />

be younger and more transient, while those on the<br />

eastern side tend to be older and more stable.<br />

If West Hollywood has a party neighborhood, it<br />

would be the western half of WeHo North. With a<br />

high concentration of large apartment buildings,<br />

this is where younger people often live when they<br />

move to WeHo.<br />

“This is definitely a party street,” says<br />

John Allendorfer, who manages a building<br />

on Larrabee Street. “I tell people if<br />

they want quiet to get a unit at the back<br />

of the building or go to another street.”<br />

At the same time, Allendorfer tells prospective<br />

tenants that if they want easy<br />

access to the nightlife and to feel a part<br />

of the various celebrations happening<br />

in town, this is the right neighborhood.<br />

“I tell them it’s going to be especially<br />

noisy at gay pride and Halloween,” says<br />

Allendorfer. “You really can’t help but<br />

feel like part of the celebration going on<br />

living so close. <strong>The</strong> energy and excitement<br />

makes its way up the hill and it’s<br />

infectious.”<br />

Bob Pranga, who has lived on Palm Avenue<br />

for 30 years, loves the hopeful,<br />

daring, ambitious energy that having<br />

young neighbors provides.<br />

“As I age, I like to be around the younger<br />

energy,” says Pranga. “I’m not quite<br />

ready to settle into the sands of Palm<br />

Springs. I like all the creative energy<br />

that comes from the kids. It keeps me<br />

young.”<br />

Conversely, the eastern side of WeHo<br />

North seems to be steady and peaceful.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re’s a good mix of apartment buildings<br />

and condo buildings and far less<br />

turnover.<br />

“It’s a fairly quiet area. Yes, I can hear<br />

noise coming from Santa Monica Boulevard,<br />

but there’s not noise coming<br />

from the residential area,” says Sam<br />

Borelli. “It’s safe. I’m always aware<br />

of my surroundings, but I don’t feel<br />

the need to be on guard or looking<br />

around.”<br />

38 THE URBAN VILLAGE: WINTER 2017/2018


Living in a<br />

Gayborhood<br />

“WHAT’S SO GREAT ABOUT WEST HOLLYWOOD NORTH IS ITS PROXIMITY TO EVERYTHING”<br />

WeHo North is also home to the original<br />

West Hollywood Library at 903 Westbourne<br />

Drive (now the V Wine Room)<br />

and the original West Hollywood Fire<br />

Station at 958 Hancock Avenue (now a<br />

three-unit affordable housing building).<br />

Residents say speed bumps on residential<br />

streets are needed to slow traffic<br />

coming down the hill from Sunset. <strong>The</strong><br />

traffic islands the city has installed have<br />

little effect.<br />

TAI SUNNANON CALLS THE<br />

EASTERN HALF OF WEHO<br />

NORTH “RELIABLE.”<br />

“I know what to expect<br />

when I come home,” says<br />

Sunnanon. “I know it’s<br />

going to be quiet. I know<br />

it’s going to be safe.<br />

I know I’ll see many of<br />

my neighbors as they’re<br />

walking their dogs.”<br />

“It can be a freeway out there the way<br />

cars speed down Palm Avenue,” says<br />

longtime resident Tom Demille.<br />

Likewise increased street lighting is<br />

desperately needed. <strong>The</strong> large trees<br />

hanging over the streets add to the<br />

feeling of being in a nice neighborhood,<br />

but the trees near the street<br />

lights need to be trimmed.<br />

“It’s dark at night,” says Demille. “Some<br />

people are afraid to go out at night, it’s<br />

so dark.”<br />

Despite the number of apartment buildings,<br />

both sides of WeHo North have a<br />

decent number of single-family homes.<br />

For a taste of what the area looked like<br />

a century ago when it was a part of the<br />

town of Sherman (the original name for<br />

West Hollywood), look to the single-family<br />

homes on Betty Way (a tiny dead-end<br />

street off Larrabee) or the two historically<br />

designated houses at 927 and 931<br />

Palm Avenue (near Cynthia).<br />

40 THE URBAN VILLAGE: WINTER 2017/2018 41


Allendorfer would like to see sheriff’s<br />

deputies, and/or security ambassadors<br />

routinely patrol in the neighborhood<br />

at 2 a.m. when the bars close since so<br />

many clubgoers live on Larrabee and<br />

Palm.<br />

JOHN HEILMAN<br />

“I LOVE THE RAINBOW<br />

Borelli hopes the city will find ways<br />

to improve parking on the residential<br />

streets, noting there are “missed parking<br />

opportunities” when cars take up<br />

two spaces. If they would pull up a few<br />

more feet, another car would be able to<br />

park.<br />

“<strong>The</strong>re are simple changes that could<br />

be made, like place the parking signs<br />

in the greenway so they line up with<br />

the white parking lines painted on the<br />

street. That would make it more obvi-<br />

SAM BORELLI<br />

CROSSWALKS; THEY MAKE ME<br />

FEEL WELCOME AND AT HOME”<br />

—JOE BRIGHTON<br />

BOB PRANGA<br />

ous exactly how far you can pull up,”<br />

says Borelli. “Mayor [John] Heilman<br />

said he wanted residential parking issues<br />

to be a priority. I hope they follow<br />

through with it.”<br />

Borelli would also like the city to experiment<br />

with removing the cul-desacs<br />

on Alta Loma near Sunset and<br />

Westmount Drive at the Trader Joes, at<br />

least temporarily, to see what impact<br />

opening those streets up has on traffic.<br />

Joe Brighton questions why the city<br />

hasn’t refreshed the five-year-old rainbow<br />

crosswalks at the San Vicente-<br />

Santa Monica intersection.<br />

“I love the rainbow crosswalks; they<br />

make me feel welcome and at home,”<br />

says Brighton. “But damn, they need to<br />

be repainted. Or at least scrubbed and<br />

cleaned really hard.”<br />

“More creativity comes from smaller<br />

stores,” says Pranga. “<strong>The</strong> big stores<br />

are a bland representation of the entire<br />

country, but true creativity comes<br />

from the small shop owners.”<br />

He also hopes the city will put more<br />

artwork in the medians of Santa Monica<br />

Boulevard. “What about a giant<br />

ruby slipper in the median near<br />

Micky’s?” says Pranga. “We’re the Creative<br />

City. Let’s show some creativity<br />

in street art.”<br />

Along similar lines, Pranga wishes<br />

the city would invest in better holiday<br />

decorations, noting the 30-year-old<br />

decorations on street poles have long<br />

passed their expiration date.<br />

Bob Pranga would like the city to adopt<br />

policies that encourage small, independent<br />

businesses and discourage<br />

chains from opening here.<br />

“I would love it if the Creative City<br />

were truly creative in its Christmas<br />

décor,” says Pranga. “For all the money<br />

this city makes, Burbank has better<br />

decorations than we do.”<br />

42<br />

THE URBAN VILLAGE: WINTER 2017/2018 43


i West<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF ZINQUÉ PHOTO COURTESY OF PACIFIC DESIGN CENTER<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF LILY-LVNATIKK<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF PACIFIC DESIGN CENTER<br />

THE SECOND SMALLEST OF WEST HOLLYWOOD’S SEVEN NEIGHBORHOODS<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF PACIFIC DESIGN CENTER<br />

COMPACT AND DENSELY POP-<br />

ULATED, TRI-WEST IS THE<br />

SECOND SMALLEST OF WEST<br />

HOLLYWOOD’S SEVEN NEIGH-<br />

BORHOODS, BUT THE FOURTH<br />

MOST POPULATED.<br />

Composed of the area north of Melrose<br />

Avenue and south of Santa Monica Boulevard<br />

between the Pacific Design Center<br />

and La Cienega, Tri-West is made up<br />

primarily of apartment buildings with<br />

a few single-family homes or duplexes<br />

thrown in. Because of the many apartment<br />

buildings, the neighborhood tends<br />

to be young and transient. But Tri-West<br />

has a good number of long-term residents<br />

who are there to stay.<br />

“Tri-West is a great neighborhood,”<br />

says Amanda Goodwin, who has lived<br />

in Tri-West for 20 years. “It’s relatively<br />

quiet considering how close it is to<br />

major streets. You can still hear the<br />

birds singing. It’s very community oriented,<br />

I know a lot of my neighbors. It’s<br />

incredibly walkable and convenient to<br />

everything.”<br />

With West Hollywood Park and the West<br />

Hollywood Library nearby, plus the<br />

many restaurants, stores and clubs on<br />

Santa Monica Boulevard within walking<br />

distance, it’s a good neighborhood<br />

for people who don’t have a car or don’t<br />

like driving in Los Angeles traffic.<br />

Alan James first discovered Tri-West<br />

three years ago when he answered a<br />

roommate ad. His initial impressions<br />

were lukewarm; he liked being part<br />

of a gayborhood, but there didn’t seem<br />

to be much to distinguish it from any<br />

other neighborhood in greater Los Angeles.<br />

Since then, he has come to appreciate<br />

what Tri-West has to offer.<br />

“Initially, the best thing about<br />

this area was that it was so close<br />

to the gay clubs and there were<br />

lots of gay people in the area,”<br />

says James. “<strong>The</strong> longer I’m<br />

here, the more I love it. What<br />

it lacks in looks, it more than<br />

makes up for in friendliness<br />

and accessibility to everything<br />

I want. It’s a really comfortable<br />

neighborhood, and I<br />

feel safe here. I love being able to<br />

look out my window and see the Pacific<br />

Design Center. Those are beautiful<br />

buildings.”<br />

Although situated between two major<br />

thoroughfares, the neighborhood is<br />

oriented more toward Santa<br />

Monica Boulevard since<br />

it has more shops and<br />

restaurants that residents<br />

use on a regular<br />

basis.<br />

44 THE URBAN VILLAGE: WINTER 2017/2018 45


SHOPPING ON MELROSE IS GEARED TO<br />

“THE DEMOGRAPHIC YOU SEE ON MELROSE TODAY, IS NOT THE<br />

DEMOGRAPHIC OF THE NEIGHBORHOOD. THOSE BUSINESSES ARE<br />

NOT RELYING ON THE PEOPLE LIVING IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD.”<br />

“Tri West revolves around 24 Hour Fitness and<br />

Starbucks,” says Steve Martin, who’s lived in the<br />

neighborhood for 22 years. “That’s where you run<br />

into all your neighbors.”<br />

Residents especially like having Trader Joes grocery<br />

store readily adjacent and are excited that Sprouts<br />

grocery store will be opening in the building currently<br />

under construction on the southwest corner<br />

of Santa Monica Boulevard and West Knoll Drive.<br />

As for Melrose Avenue, it has evolved drastically in<br />

the past 10 to 15 years as the City of West Hollywood<br />

designated it part of the Design District (along with<br />

Robertson and Beverly Boulevards). Consequently,<br />

many designer clothing boutiques and high-end<br />

home furnishing stores have moved in.<br />

“Shopping on Melrose is geared toward hipsters<br />

and designers,” says Martin. “<strong>The</strong> demographic you<br />

see on Melrose today, is not the demographic of the<br />

neighborhood. Those businesses are not relying on<br />

the people living in the neighborhood.”<br />

Today, Melrose may be attracting upscale customers,<br />

but for decades before that, it attracted an eclectic<br />

mix of people looking for bargains in the unique,<br />

hole-in-the-wall shops and for spiritual enlightenment.<br />

For 41 years, the Bodhi Tree, a renowned New Age/<br />

spiritual bookstore, was a primary draw on Melrose.<br />

Its closure in 2011 seemed to mark the end of<br />

Melrose as a haven for funky shops.<br />

“Melrose was taken away from us to<br />

make the Design District,” says Goodwin.<br />

“It’s a shame they didn’t make<br />

Melrose into something like Abbott<br />

Kinney [the trendy, ultra-cool shopping<br />

street in Venice]. <strong>The</strong> Melrose of 20<br />

years ago felt a lot like the Abbott Kinney<br />

of 20 years ago.”<br />

No one is sure how the neighborhood<br />

got the name Tri-West. While it is on<br />

the western side of the city, it is rectangular<br />

shaped, not triangle shaped.<br />

In fact, many residents are unaware<br />

that Tri-West is the official name for the<br />

neighborhood.<br />

“<strong>The</strong>y could surely come up with a better<br />

name,” says Alan James. “If this is<br />

the Creative City, they should get creative<br />

with the neighborhood’s name.”<br />

Cut-through traffic is an increasing<br />

problem in Tri-West. Speed bumps are<br />

needed to slow down the traffic, residents<br />

say.<br />

“When Santa Monica Boulevard is at<br />

a standstill, cars will cut through Tri-<br />

West to get to Melrose,” says Goodwin.<br />

Residents say they are anxious to see<br />

what will happen with the MTA (Metropolitan<br />

Transportation Authority)<br />

bus depot on the southeastern corner<br />

of San Vicente and Santa Monica boulevards.<br />

That lot, along with the adjacent<br />

Pacific Design Center, was originally<br />

owned by the Los Angeles Pacific<br />

Railway, which ran the streetcar lines<br />

in greater Los Angeles.<br />

<strong>The</strong> city hopes to transform at least<br />

a portion of that area into shops and<br />

apartments, possibly even office<br />

space. At one point, there was even<br />

talk of moving City Hall to that location.<br />

While serious discussions about<br />

developing that 11-acre lot, which the<br />

MTA owns, began in 2013, so far nothing<br />

definite has materialized. It could<br />

be years, or even decades, before anything<br />

happens there.<br />

46 THE URBAN VILLAGE: WINTER 2017/2018 47


West<br />

WEST HOLLYWOOD<br />

WEST HOLLYWOOD’S OWN MAYBERRY<br />

Hidden away on the side streets north of Beverly Boulevard, south of<br />

Melrose Avenue between Doheny Drive and La Cienega Boulevard.<br />

HIDDEN AWAY ON THE SIDE STREETS<br />

NORTH OF BEVERLY BOULEVARD, SOUTH<br />

OF MELROSE AVENUE BETWEEN DOHENY<br />

DRIVE AND LA CIENEGA BOULEVARD, AL-<br />

MOST 1,100 HOMES MAKE UP WEST HOLLY-<br />

W O O D W E S T.<br />

This is the only neighborhood in the<br />

city zoned exclusively for single-family<br />

homes and duplexes (the handful<br />

of small apartment buildings in the<br />

area predate the city’s incorporation<br />

in 1984).<br />

With a mix of bungalows and Spanishstyle<br />

houses, this area dates back to<br />

the 1910s and 1920s, with homes originally<br />

built for employees of the streetcar<br />

company Los Angeles Pacific Railway,<br />

which had a large depot where<br />

the Pacific Design Center now stands.<br />

“THIS IS LIKE A LITTLE<br />

SUBURBIA IN THE<br />

MIDDLE OF THE MOST<br />

EXCITING PART OF<br />

WEST HOLLYWOOD,”<br />

says Manny Rodriguez, who moved to<br />

the neighborhood in 2004. “We’ve got<br />

everything nearby, West Hollywood<br />

Park, the library, Boystown, the Bev-<br />

erly Center, the Design District on Melrose<br />

and Robertson. It’s a good place to<br />

raise a family, yet there are plenty of<br />

gay couples, retired couples and single<br />

people too.”<br />

As Richard Giesbret, the president of<br />

the area’s residents association, explains,<br />

“West Hollywood West is just<br />

this special place. It’s quiet and charming.<br />

It has a park like quality that offers<br />

a respite from all the urban areas<br />

around it.”<br />

This is a tight-knit neighborhood with<br />

a small-town feel where people easily<br />

get to know their neighbors and socialize<br />

together frequently. Rodriguez<br />

reports he knows almost half the people<br />

on his block, but also knows at least<br />

three people living on each of the 25<br />

blocks that comprise West Hollywood<br />

West.<br />

“If you’re inclined to want to be in a<br />

community, around people and neighbors<br />

and really live together, that’s<br />

West Hollywood West,” says Rodriguez.<br />

“If you’re inclined to go behind<br />

a hedge and never be seen or talk to<br />

anybody, that’s West Hollywood West<br />

too. It’s the community for both those<br />

types of people.”<br />

PHOTO COURTESY CLEM ONOJEGHUO<br />

48 THE URBAN VILLAGE: WINTER 2017/2018 49


“I SAID, ‘THERE’S A NEIGHBORHOOD<br />

this<br />

SOUTH<br />

is where<br />

OF MELROSE?<br />

I want to live<br />

“IT LOOKED LIKE WHAT I ALWAYS IMAGED A<br />

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA NEIGHBORHOOD TO LOOK<br />

LIKE – CHARMING MODEST COTTAGES WITH SPANISH<br />

STYLE HOMES MIXED IN, PALM TREES, LOTS OF<br />

TREES IN GENERAL, HEDGES, LAWNS, BEAUTIFUL<br />

VEGETATION.”—MANNY RODRIGUEZ<br />

MANNY RODRIGUEZ<br />

want to live,” recalls Rodriguez. “It<br />

looked like what I always imaged a<br />

Southern California neighborhood to<br />

look like – charming modest cottages<br />

with Spanish style homes mixed<br />

in, palm trees, lots of trees in general,<br />

hedges, lawns, beautiful vegetation.”<br />

West Hollywood West has the strongest<br />

residents/neighborhood association<br />

in the city. If something affects<br />

Although many homes in West Hollywood<br />

West can now fetch over $1 mil-<br />

Melrose commercial corridor, resi-<br />

their neighborhood or the Beverly or<br />

lion, it wasn’t always the fashionable dents turn out in large numbers at City<br />

neighborhood that it now is. For a long Council meetings to speak up.<br />

time, it was a forgotten area, easily<br />

overlooked.<br />

“Whether you’re a renter or a homeowner,<br />

we had a tremendous investment<br />

in where we live,” says Rodri-<br />

That was the situation in the mid 1990s<br />

when Giesbret was looking to purchase<br />

his first home. He looked all over protect that investment, and by proguez.<br />

“We want to make sure we<br />

Los Angeles and eventually found a tecting that investment, it just makes<br />

fixer-upper on Norwich Drive which the neighborhood better.”<br />

he purchased for $145,000, a fantastic<br />

price even in those days. He had to invest<br />

a lot in renovating the house, but<br />

he felt the area was special because of<br />

its convenience to restaurants, shops<br />

and bars, and its proximity to Beverly<br />

Hills, which is just on the other side of<br />

Doheny Drive.<br />

“I thought, ‘this neighborhood has got<br />

to be pulled up by Beverly Hills eventually’,”<br />

recalls Giesbret. “And sure<br />

enough, it became East Beverly Hills.”<br />

Rodriguez loves that the neighborhood<br />

is so vibrant, but still somewhat hidden<br />

away. When he first moved to West<br />

Hollywood from New York in 2002,<br />

he lived in an apartment on Larrabee<br />

Street while he explored the Los Angeles<br />

region looking for a house. At a<br />

gay pride event, someone suggested he<br />

look south of Melrose.<br />

“I said, ‘<strong>The</strong>re’s a neighborhood south<br />

of Melrose?’ Next day, I took a walk<br />

down south of Melrose, and that’s<br />

when I first discovered West Hollywood<br />

West and said this is where I<br />

50 THE URBAN VILLAGE: WINTER 2017/2018 51


cMansions<br />

<strong>The</strong> residents first came together<br />

in the mid 1980s to<br />

get parking restrictions for<br />

the neighborhood when<br />

workers at the nearby Beverly<br />

Center, which opened in<br />

1982, would park there for<br />

their entire work day. Soon<br />

after, the neighbors further<br />

coalesced to fight a 25-story,<br />

hotel-and-convention center<br />

proposed for the Sherbourne<br />

Triangle (Sherbourne Drive<br />

<strong>The</strong> residents are also fiercely<br />

protective of their special<br />

enclave and all the things<br />

that make it unique. In the<br />

early 2010s, they started seeing<br />

modest houses demolished<br />

and replaced by “Mc-<br />

Giesbret believes the resident’s<br />

quick response to the<br />

McMansions is “indicative<br />

of how much people really<br />

care about the neighborhood.”<br />

While Karliss, who served<br />

at San Vicente; currently a Mansions.” Richard and on the design guidelines<br />

parking lot for Cedars-Sinai<br />

Medical Center).<br />

Leslie Karliss, who moved<br />

to West Hollywood West in<br />

committee, is happy they<br />

were adopted, he is not sure<br />

2012 from Malibu after their they are being followed<br />

In the ensuing years, they’ve<br />

fought many projects they<br />

felt might have an impact<br />

on their quality of life, winning<br />

some battles and losing<br />

some. Consequently, the<br />

residents are often viewed<br />

as NIMBYs (Not in My Back<br />

sons left for college, were<br />

particularly upset.<br />

“I loved the architecture<br />

of West Hollywood West; it<br />

was a unified collection of<br />

charming and eclectic cottages<br />

and bungalows,” recalls<br />

carefully.<br />

“A lot of houses are under<br />

construction that still feel<br />

like big boxes to me,” Karliss<br />

says. “I wish the city would<br />

enforce these things closely.<br />

We didn’t get these guide-<br />

Yard). However, Giesbret<br />

Richard Karliss. “That lines enacted just to have<br />

disagrees with the NIMBY<br />

label.<br />

“No one here is against commercial<br />

development,” Giesbret<br />

says. “We’re just expecting,<br />

all quickly changed. Developers<br />

and flippers discovered<br />

the profit potential for<br />

building up and maximizing<br />

square footage, and that<br />

was that.”<br />

them ignored.”<br />

Cut through traffic on the<br />

residential streets is a growing<br />

concern. Cars parked<br />

on the street are getting<br />

and demanding,<br />

sideswiped and cars back-<br />

sensitive commercial development.<br />

Commercial buildings<br />

should respect other<br />

commercial buildings and<br />

Karliss and other residents<br />

persuaded the City Council<br />

to enact design guidelines to<br />

preserve the intrinsic character<br />

ing out of driveways are<br />

being hit by speeding traffic.<br />

Although the city has installed<br />

some “traffic islands”<br />

also respect residential<br />

of the neighborhood to slow traffic, residents say<br />

needs so that we are not<br />

overwhelmed by noise, traffic,<br />

and special events.”<br />

and prevent an onslaught of<br />

oversized, nearly identical<br />

looking big-box style houses.<br />

their impact is minimal.<br />

<strong>The</strong>y want the city to install<br />

speed bumps.<br />

RICHARD GIESBRET<br />

Cul-de-sacs are another way<br />

to combat cut-through traffic.<br />

In the 1990s, the residents<br />

pushed to get those<br />

created on several streets,<br />

thereby creating several<br />

dead end roads (and consequently<br />

adding to the neighborhood<br />

feel). Giesbret<br />

wonders if it’s time to create<br />

partial cul-de-sacs that<br />

would prevent turns into the<br />

neighborhood from Doheny,<br />

but still allow residents to<br />

turn onto Doheny. “It would<br />

be half blocked; you could<br />

get out, but couldn’t get in,”<br />

he explains. “That would<br />

limit access to the neighborhood<br />

streets.”<br />

Despite the charming area,<br />

many people wish the neighborhood<br />

had an equally<br />

charming name. “West Hollywood<br />

West is a mouthful,”<br />

says Rodriguez. “People<br />

think the second ‘West’ is a<br />

typo. We really need to work<br />

on finding a better name.”<br />

52 THE URBAN VILLAGE: WINTER 2017/2018 53


Norma<br />

Triangle<br />

WEST HOLLYWOOD’S OLDEST AND MOST HISTORIC NEIGHBORHOOD<br />

THIS IS WHERE TRANQUILITY SEEMS TO TRANSPORT<br />

YOU FAR AWAY FROM THE HUSTLE AND BUSTLE OF<br />

GREATER LOS ANGELES.<br />

ONE WOULD NEVER<br />

GUESS WHILE DRIVING<br />

THROUGH WEST HOLLYWOOD<br />

THAT THERE IS A QUAINT,<br />

PICTURESQUE NEIGHBORHOOD<br />

tucked behind the Pavilions supermarket on Santa<br />

Monica Boulevard, the tall buildings on Sunset<br />

Boulevard or the mostly non-descript apartment<br />

buildings on San Vicente Boulevard. It is only from<br />

Doheny Drive that you get a brief glimpse of the enchanting<br />

neighborhood that is Norma Triangle.<br />

But when you do turn off those busy boulevards into<br />

this area, you quickly discover West Hollywood’s<br />

oldest and most historic of neighborhoods. <strong>The</strong> hidden-away<br />

quality combined with tree-lined streets,<br />

charming-if-small houses and friendly, close-knit<br />

residents is what makes Norma Triangle feel like a<br />

storybook hamlet.<br />

“Norma Triangle seems to be the perfect example<br />

of the West Hollywood urban village concept,” says<br />

Joe Guadarama, who moved to the neighborhood<br />

17 years ago. “It’s a beautiful residential area, but<br />

there are plenty of great shops, restaurants and bars<br />

within easy walking distance.”<br />

Norma Triangle has two distinct parts. <strong>The</strong> upper<br />

portion, between Sunset and Cynthia Street, is<br />

made up almost entirely of apartment/condo buildings.<br />

<strong>The</strong> lower portion, between Cynthia and Santa<br />

Monica Boulevard, is primarily made up of singlefamily<br />

homes and duplexes that date back to the<br />

1910s and 1920s.<br />

It’s that lower portion of Norma Triangle that seems<br />

magical. This is where you can get lost in the maze<br />

of streets so narrow that street parking is only allowed<br />

on one side. This is where the lots are so small<br />

and the houses are so close together, it feels European.<br />

This is where the foliage and trees are so lush,<br />

you wonder if you’re in Key West. This is<br />

where tranquility seems to transport you<br />

far away from the hustle and bustle of<br />

greater Los Angeles.<br />

Legend has it that the silent movie<br />

star Norma Talmadge had a film studio<br />

in the area and the homes were originally<br />

dressing rooms for the stars after whom<br />

she named the streets (Cynthia Street,<br />

Lloyd Place, Dicks Street, Phyllis Street,<br />

Keith Avenue, etc).<br />

However, historians say the homes<br />

were built for employees of the streetcar<br />

company, Los Angeles Pacific Railway,<br />

which had a depot where the Pacific<br />

Design Center now stands. Those<br />

historians say the streets were named<br />

after children and friends of Moses<br />

Sherman, who founded the area (West<br />

Hollywood’s original name was Sherman).<br />

<strong>The</strong> small houses were originally fairly<br />

bland, built mostly in Craftsmen or<br />

Spanish Colonial revival. But in the 100<br />

years since they were built, many got<br />

face lifts. As Joe Guadarama explains,<br />

in the 1940s and 1950s, a lot of designers<br />

who decorated homes in nearby<br />

Beverly Hills lived in Norma Triangle.<br />

In the early 1990s when Todd Bianco<br />

and his then boyfriend decided to move<br />

from Los Feliz to West Hollywood to<br />

be closer to the gay epicenter, they explored<br />

several neighborhoods before<br />

deciding Norma Triangle was where<br />

they wanted to settle. Bianco had a special<br />

fondness for Norma Triangle, dating<br />

back to his time as gay teen coming<br />

to West Hollywood.<br />

<strong>The</strong>y rented an apartment in the neighborhood<br />

and kept an eye out for homes<br />

for sale, while also digging into the history,<br />

even going so far as to research<br />

tract maps of Norma Triangle. Many of<br />

the houses were in disrepair.<br />

“<strong>The</strong>se were little, crappy houses,” recalls<br />

Bianco. “<strong>The</strong>y were built for railroad<br />

workers. <strong>The</strong>y were flimsy and<br />

they were way overpriced for the size.”<br />

When the couple bought their house,<br />

they originally intended to tear it down<br />

and rebuild, but ultimately decided to<br />

renovate instead, taking advantage of<br />

Mills Act tax breaks.<br />

54 THE URBAN VILLAGE: WINTER 2017/2018<br />

55


he You energy can feel<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF BAR 10<br />

“THIS IS A LITTLE POCKET OF HEAVEN IN A VERY, VERY DENSE PART OF THE CITY...”<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF SAINT FELIX<br />

With houses now fetching $1 million or<br />

more, residents are protective of what<br />

makes their neighborhood special. Following<br />

the lead of the West Hollywood<br />

West neighborhood, in early 2017 Norma<br />

“<strong>The</strong> nightlife of Santa Monica Boulevard<br />

is so adjacent to it, you can’t not<br />

Triangle residents got the City Council<br />

to institute design guidelines for new<br />

sense it,” says Carvalheiro. “You feel<br />

homes that discourage real estate speculators<br />

from buying properties, tearing<br />

Monica Boulevard, even though you’re a<br />

very connected to the pulse of Santa<br />

the houses down and building oversized,<br />

boxy McMansions.<br />

couple of blocks up.”<br />

Yvette Inclan, who moved to Norma Triangle<br />

six years ago, reports a similar<br />

Guadarama wishes the city would make<br />

the area an historic preservation overlay<br />

zone to protect the old homes. Short<br />

Sunset Strip nightlife.<br />

feeling living just a block south of the<br />

of that, he hopes more houses will be<br />

“You just can’t help but know Sunset is<br />

historically designated, so “that part of<br />

up there. You can feel the energy, but it’s<br />

our history isn’t erased.” Only about a<br />

still a fairly quiet area,” says Inclan.<br />

dozen in the area are currently historically<br />

designated, including the houses at<br />

An advantage to living adjacent to Sunset<br />

is that Lyft and Uber cars are always<br />

the San Vicente Inn, an urban hotel on<br />

San Vicente, just north of Santa Monica<br />

nearby. “I don’t think I’ve ever had to<br />

Boulevard.<br />

wait more than two minutes for Uber,”<br />

says Inclan.<br />

Despite living in the enclave-like area,<br />

residents are always just minutes away<br />

from restaurants and bars. Rogerio Carvalheiro,<br />

who rented a “postage-stamp<br />

sized” house near the Pavilions for several<br />

years, notes the area was peaceful,<br />

but you could still feel the vitality of the<br />

Boystown nightlife.<br />

<strong>The</strong> area is also home to the worldfamous<br />

Troubadour nightclub at 9081<br />

Santa Monica Boulevard (near Doheny).<br />

<strong>The</strong> 60-year-old club is where many<br />

musicians and comics got their start,<br />

including James Taylor, Linda Ronstadt,<br />

<strong>The</strong> Eagles, <strong>The</strong> Pointer Sisters and Guns<br />

N’ Roses.<br />

Bianco hopes mass transit in the form<br />

of the subway will one day come to the<br />

area with a stop at San Vicente and Santa<br />

Monica Boulevard. But realizing that is<br />

decades away, his wish is that the city<br />

will install more electric vehicle charging<br />

stations, perhaps attaching them to<br />

some of the power poles so you can recharge<br />

on the street.<br />

Carvalheiro hopes the city will repair<br />

the neighborhood’s sidewalks, which<br />

tend to be narrow. Guadarama laments<br />

that cut-through traffic on Cynthia<br />

Street is so heavy that it sometimes takes<br />

ten minutes to get between Doheny and<br />

San Vicente.<br />

While the restaurants is the area are top<br />

notch, residents say they would like a<br />

wider selection, especially a good diner.<br />

And slightly more affordable prices.<br />

But those are just minor quibbles, as residents<br />

say they couldn’t be happier.<br />

“This is a little pocket of heaven in a very,<br />

very dense part of the city because it is<br />

little single family homes,” says Bianco.<br />

“It always struck me as being home because<br />

of the scale and the gay community.<br />

I didn’t want some big house<br />

in the valley. I wanted to live in<br />

an urban environment, and this<br />

was as close to having your<br />

own little slice of that here.”<br />

56 THE URBAN VILLAGE: WINTER 2017/2018 57


58 THE URBAN VILLAGE: WINTER 2017/2018<br />

THE GETAWAY: YOUR 36-HOUR WEEKEND


THE GETAWAY: YOUR 36-HOUR<br />

Palm Springs<br />

SATURDAY<br />

#SATURDAYSHENANIGANS<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF CHEEKY’S<br />

W H O A .<br />

W H AT ’ S<br />

T H AT<br />

FEELING?<br />

I S I T<br />

“AAAHH…?”<br />

You make a right onto Granvia<br />

Valmonte and park in<br />

front of the ALCAZAR,<br />

a sweet, inviting modern<br />

Spanish Colonial hotel offering<br />

34 rooms, a surprisingly<br />

secluded pool deck<br />

and access to two of this<br />

desert town’s most in demand<br />

restaurants: Cheeky’s<br />

and Birba.<br />

Your room is white, as in allwhite<br />

– even the floor. It is<br />

affordable desert minimalism<br />

warmed up by brightly<br />

colored throw pillows. Suddenly,<br />

you’re famished,<br />

anticipation of your<br />

weekend sojourn whetting<br />

your appetite.<br />

#FEELGOODFRIDAY<br />

You are shocked at how<br />

early you’ve arisen. <strong>The</strong> desert<br />

has that effect on many,<br />

and breakfast never sounded<br />

better. CHEEKY’S<br />

– the hottest breakfast joint<br />

in town -- is attached to your<br />

hotel, but you’d better hurry.<br />

A long line has formed and<br />

it’s only 7:45 a.m. Ron, the<br />

silver fox of a host, seats you<br />

at a table outdoors, underneath<br />

a canopy of vines.<br />

You’ve just veered off the<br />

I-10 onto California Highway<br />

111. <strong>The</strong> San Jacinto<br />

Mountains stand majestically<br />

to your right as you see<br />

the Coachella Valley unrolling<br />

itself out like a carpet<br />

before you. Your body relaxes<br />

as your mind releases its<br />

grip on your workaday obsessions.<br />

<strong>The</strong> smile on your<br />

face is real. You’re only minutes<br />

from spending a weekend<br />

in the oasis known as<br />

Palm Springs.<br />

You drive south on<br />

North Palm Canyon<br />

Drive through Uptown,<br />

the ridiculously<br />

seductive collection<br />

of Mid Century Modern<br />

shops and toocute<br />

restaurants.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF ALCAZAR<br />

JOHANNES<br />

is where you end up, one of<br />

the first upscale restaurants<br />

of the modern Palm Springs<br />

renaissance. Your eyes scan<br />

the Continental-inspired<br />

California menu and your<br />

head cocks to one side. Wait.<br />

Schnitzel? Ja. Austrian chef<br />

Johannes Bacher has two<br />

options for you: traditional<br />

veal (Wienerschnitzel) and<br />

chicken. Both are served<br />

with fingerling potatoes,<br />

dill-cucumber sour cream<br />

dressing, fresh cranberries<br />

and a half lemon wrapped<br />

in a micro-weaved yellow<br />

net straining the sour citrus<br />

juice dripping onto<br />

the fried, breaded deliciousness<br />

that is schnitzel.<br />

Quench your palate with<br />

any number of European or<br />

Californian wines. Or, better<br />

yet, imbibe their signature<br />

sangria made with<br />

more ingredients than you<br />

can count.<br />

Your evening isn’t over yet.<br />

Bootlegger Tiki is just a mile<br />

north. Upon entering you notice<br />

the Polynesian-infused<br />

décor: kitschy paintings of<br />

topless, well-endowed hula<br />

dancers and puffer fish lanterns.<br />

<strong>The</strong> bartender recommends<br />

the (literally) flaming<br />

King Louie’s Downfall or<br />

the Pog Tiki – served in a tiki<br />

tumbler. One sip from each<br />

and, well… life is good.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Bloody Marys are to<br />

die for. You giggle because<br />

they are served in little<br />

glass cowboy boots. That’s<br />

because they kick ass. <strong>The</strong><br />

glass tchotchke theme continues<br />

as real maple syrup<br />

– pouring out of a log-cabin-shaped<br />

bottle – drenches<br />

your corn and blueberry<br />

pancakes. Gobsmacked<br />

is what you are next as you<br />

drool over the bacon flight<br />

featuring five moutwatering<br />

flavors including jalapeno<br />

and Indio date glaze.<br />

Yu-uum!<br />

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THE URBAN VILLAGE: WINTER 2017/2018<br />

61


Work off all the calories you<br />

just ate by hiking the gorgeous<br />

Indian Canyons. Drive<br />

south on Palm Canyon, onto<br />

the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla<br />

Indians Reservation.<br />

Pay your $9 entrance fee and<br />

choose from Palm, Murray<br />

and Andreas Canyons to hike<br />

in. PALM CANYON<br />

displays a lush oasis and an<br />

outdoor museum showing<br />

how these Indians lived. If<br />

you say to yourself,<br />

you’ve gotta scoot!<br />

Your night not quite completed,<br />

you crave something<br />

more before turning in. <strong>The</strong><br />

Club at the HARD ROCK<br />

in downtown Palm Springs<br />

is a “mashup” of the days<br />

of disco and modern desert<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE HARD ROCK CAFE<br />

“WOW, I HAD<br />

NO IDEA PALM<br />

SPRINGS HAD<br />

THIS TO OFFER,”<br />

YOU WOULDN’T<br />

BE THE FIRST.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF IL CORSO ON EL PASEO<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE HARD ROCK CAFE<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE HARD ROCK CAFE<br />

NAPS. YOU LIKE ‘EM?<br />

OKAY, YOU’VE EARNED<br />

ONE. SIT BY THE ALCA-<br />

ZAR POOL AND SHUT<br />

YOUR EYES.<br />

Returning to full consciousness,<br />

you’ve gotta scoot!<br />

Your dinner reservation at<br />

IL CORSO ON EL<br />

PASEO in Palm Desert<br />

– 14 miles away – awaits.<br />

Upon arrival, you are greeted<br />

by a friendly Sicilian.<br />

This is Federico, and his<br />

accent pulls you to your<br />

table as you admire the<br />

industrial-inspired<br />

interior, open kitchen<br />

and glass-walled<br />

wine cellar.<br />

you prefer gnocchi alla vodka<br />

or tagliatelle all’emiliana.<br />

Il Corso is one of those rare<br />

finds in the desert: great<br />

food, impeccable service and<br />

inviting ambiance.<br />

style. Just consult its website.<br />

<strong>The</strong> DJ knows her stuff.<br />

Your bootie shakes as your<br />

foot taps. You find a partner<br />

and move onto the dance<br />

floor before ordering craft<br />

cocktails and people-watching.<br />

What happens from<br />

here is, frankly, none of our<br />

business.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE HARD ROCK CAFE<br />

Your head still spinning<br />

from <strong>The</strong> Club, you push<br />

open the Alcazar’s gate as<br />

the frothy waters of an inviting<br />

Jacuzzi compel you.<br />

Soon, jets of hot bubbles<br />

tickle your shoulders, and<br />

you couldn’t possibly get<br />

more chill.<br />

Federico will probably<br />

steeryou to the<br />

perennial special:<br />

Dover sole, sliced tableside<br />

and accompanied<br />

by julienne vegetables.<br />

Il Corso’s pasta<br />

is homemade so maybe<br />

62<br />

THE URBAN VILLAGE: WINTER 2017/2018 63


SUNDAY<br />

#SUNDAYFUNDAY<br />

bottomless mimosas?<br />

Within this unique vestibule,<br />

which rotates, giving<br />

every passenger a 360-degree<br />

view of the valley floor,<br />

you might as well be in the<br />

Swiss Alps noticing the craggy<br />

rock formations getting<br />

more dramatic as you approach<br />

your destination.<br />

UPON<br />

EXITING IT<br />

APPEARS YOU<br />

ARE IN THE<br />

MIDDLE OF<br />

A CHEAP SKI<br />

LODGE FROM<br />

A 1960S SPY<br />

MOVIE.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re’s a gift shop and a restaurant<br />

but the real magic<br />

is outside. After traipsing<br />

along concrete walkways<br />

you soon see pine trees.<br />

Yeah, that’s a forest. Moments<br />

ago you were driving<br />

through desert; now<br />

you are in the mountains.<br />

Amazing.<br />

Peaks now stand on your<br />

left as you speed toward<br />

the I-10 west, toward L.A.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re’s a heavy feeling in<br />

your chest. You feel…sad.<br />

You’re leaving a magical<br />

place, misnamed after the<br />

Spanish word (conchilla)<br />

meaning “little shell.”<br />

You put on your favorite<br />

tunes and hit the gas pedal,<br />

knowing Palm Springs and<br />

its environs will always be<br />

only about two short hours<br />

away.<br />

your arrives chariot<br />

#AMAZING<br />

By Michael Jortner<br />

Michael Jortner writes about<br />

entrepreneurs, leaders and<br />

influencers running small businesses<br />

in and around West<br />

Hollywood for WEHOville.com.<br />

More information can be found<br />

at michaeljortner.com and<br />

Jortner can be reached at<br />

writer@michaeljortner.com.<br />

64<br />

THE URBAN VILLAGE: WINTER 2017/2018<br />

65


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