April 2018 Your Handmade Home

I was able to use the existing plywood
countertop base as a guide. I just sat
the butcher block on it, slid under the
counter, and took a sharpie to trace the
cutout. Next, I took it in the garage,
drilled a hole for starting point, and
used my jigsaw to make the cut.
Once I got to this point in the reno, I was exhausted and ready to be done.
I know all my DIY friends can relate! But there was still finish work to
do, so I trudged along. I framed the mirror, made a built-in to replace the
medicine cabinet, and made pipe shelving. Whew!
Here are some pics of the final look.
Then it was time to stain the countertop.
I used Minwax Special Walnut
Wood Finish — my absolute favorite,
go-to stain. The stain needed to dry for
24 hours before I could apply the
protective top coat (Minwax Satin Water-Based
32-fl oz Polyurethane), so
while it was drying I painted the top half of the walls white, in Sherwin
Williams Pure White. More zigging and zagging!
The next day I was able to install the countertop using Liquid Nails and
brad nails which I attached from underneath. I used 1”x 2” pine boards to
frame the countertop around the front edge and the backsplash. I applied
four coats of the Polyurethane (be sure to follow the instructions on the
can), then installed the sink using a clear silicone sealant.
Back to the shiplap walls. To install the shiplap, I measured and cut each
piece. Pieces that were going to be installed behind the toilet, I painted
first. (I chose Sherwin Williams Tinman as the paint color for the shiplap).
All of the other pieces of shiplap, I installed first, then painted. I think it’s
easier to paint the shiplap once it’s up on the wall, but I know others who
think it is easier to paint them first. I used a brad nailer to attach them to
the studs, and used a nickel for spacing. Personally I like the rustic feel the
exposed nails give, so I left them exposed.