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Netjets Volume 4 2018


BERLIN-BASED TIM RAUE FIRST CAUGHT THE EYE OF GERMANY’S FOOD CRITICS IN 2005, THE YEAR HE WAS AWARDED THE TITLE “RISING STAR OF THE YEAR” BY THE COUNTRY’S LEADING CULINARY SOURCEBOOK, GAULT MILLAU. At the time he was helming the kitchen at Restaurant 44 in the Swissôtel. One of his signature dishes was a green curry soup served with exotic fruits and lobster; the flavours were so fiery and intense it was like a bomb going off in your mouth. Most of the ambitious chefs in Germany were deconstructing traditional German and French recipes in the style of Bocuse or whipping up some foam in an attempt to keep up with Ferran Adrià. To serve an Asian-inspired dish that was both spicy and refined at a fine-dining restaurant ▲ Prime position The Krug Table at Restaurant Tim Raue allows up to ten guests to get an inside view into the kitchen ▲ Mixing taste Raue’s sweet and sour pork as it appeared in his popular book My Way: From the Gutters to the Stars in Berlin was – at the time, at least – not only unusual but risky as well. A few years later, the then 33-year-old chef launched MÂ Tim Raue, a flashy blacklacquered jewel box of a restaurant in the Adlon hotel complex. He won a Michelin star within six months of opening, but the cooking was sometimes overshadowed by its ostentatiousness: a waiter would dramatically flourish a melon imported from Japan in a velvet case and explain that it had flown first class and cost almost €100. This was at a moment, in the mid-Naughties, when international chefs were starting to think about sustainability and sourcing locally, so the unmistakable whiff of 1980s opulence was nothing short of remarkable. In the summer of 2010 Raue and his longtime partner (and then wife) Marie-Anne opened up their own kitchen, Restaurant Tim Raue, an intimate dining salon with pouredasphalt floors, white walls, gallery-style lighting and about 20 tables on the border of Mitte and Kreuzberg near Checkpoint Charlie. For a chef in Berlin to open a standalone fine-dining restaurant was, and still remains, a speculation with odds that aren’t too dissimilar to those in poker. The culture of fine dining in Germany’s capital has never been its strong point. Most restaurants with Michelin-star ambitions have had to be subsidised by a five-star hotel, but even winning a star was never a guarantee; in fact, the year that Tim Raue opened up his place in Kreuzberg, the one-star Vitrum in the Ritz closed down. In 2012, Raue was awarded two stars. > 66 NetJets

THE GOURMET WOLFGANG STAHR, © CALLWEY VERLAG To serve an Asian-inspired dish that was both spicy and refined at a fine-dining restaurant in Berlin was – at the time, at least – not only unusual but risky as well 67 NetJets

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September | October | November 2009 Volume 33, Number 4
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