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THE GUIDE FRESH FROM THE FARM ● There is more to Budapest Markets than the stately Great Market Hall, tuned to accommodate swarms of visitors. It is just one of the “Big Five”, the historic halls constructed for the Millennial celebrations in 1896, located at different points in the city, and all a feat of engineering and design in their day. Hold Street Market (pictured) is popular for its street-food stalls, at Hunyadi Square Market you get fantastic farmers’ produce, Rákóczy Square Market shows off its renovated charms while the Klauzál Square one is a more modest affair these days. Apart from the Big Five, inner city ruin bars such as Szimpla and Anker’t also organize farmers’ markets, and vegans will be happy to browse the offer at MOM Park’s Organic Market. That is not all; as going to the market constitutes a stable routine for most Hungarians, you will find a local piac (Hungarian for market) within a stone’s throw at any point of the city. Don’t be shy and get local food from the locals. See our Listings on p.17. 10 WHERE LONDON BUDAPEST I JANUARY I APRIL 2018 2013

ENTERTAINMENT Down With the Klezmer Klang Listen to Budapest pros of regional mix What could be more Central European than the boisterous amalgam of klezmer? Weaving together Jewish, Gypsy, Slavic and Hungarian elements, this genre is a perfect mixture yet unmistakably unique. Budapest Klezmer Band have been performing it with gusto since 1990, led by Ferenc Jávori, who won the most prestigious state award in Hungary for his musical service to the genre. The band doesn’t refrain from spicing up their trusted recipe with contemporary influences, but on the whole they stick to the good old klezmer klang. Expect a skilled, humorous, at points melancholy, and at others exuberantly joyful concert. Captivating Kátya Tompos lends her powerful voice to the show performed by proficient klezmer hands. 14 April, 8pm Müpa Budapest – Listing on this page, PERFORMANCE VENUES A38 SHIP Rock the boat nightly at one of Budapest’s top music and dance venues, docked on the Danube. Buda XI, moored south of Petőfi Bridge. T: (+36 1) 464 3940, Off Map ARTUS Avant-garde theater and dance performances by the Gábor Goda Company, along with art exhibitions and concerts. Buda XI, Sztregova u. 7. T: (+36 30) 820 3865, www.artus. hu Off Map ÁTRIUM THEATER A cultural presentation space offering English-language theater performances, dance shows, live concerts. Buda II, Margit krt. 55. T: (+36 1) 317 9338, Map E3 BUDAI VIGADO Cultural center, also known as the Hungarian Heritage House, which stages mostly Hungarian folk dance and music performances. Buda I, Corvin tér 8. T: (+36 1) 225 6049, Map D3 BUDAPEST CONGRESS CENTER Extensive arena welcoming crowd-drawing headliners. Buda XII, Jagelló út 1-3. T: (+36 1) 372 5400, www.bcc. hu Map B2 BUDAPEST MUSIC CENTER (BMC) This multifunctional facility encompasses a comprehensive music library, a record label, and multiple venues that showcase established and promising muscians. The Opus Jazz Club is also part of the BMC. Pest IX, Mátyás u. 8. T: (+36 1) 216 7894, Map A6 DANUBE PALACE Classical concerts and performances by the Hungarian State Folk Ensemble and other companies. T: (+36 1) 317 2754. Pest V, Zrínyi u. 5. Map D5 FONÓ MUSIC HALL World music, folk music, folk dances and jazz performed on several stages. Buda XI, Sztregova u. 3. T: (+36 1) 206 5300, Off Map HUNGEXPO One-stop shop for events, conferences, conventions and exhibitions. Pest X, Albertirsai út 10. T: (+36 1) 263 6000, www. Off Map KLEBELSBERG CULTURAL CENTER Tucked into the serene Buda hills, his cultural locale hosts modern and folk dancing, classical theater and contemporary arts. Buda II, Templom u. 2-10. T: (+36 1) 392 0860, Off Map LISZT ACADEMY OF MUSIC Top-notch music performances at this Art Nouveau music university founded by its namesake composer. It has a splendid main concert hall and a smaller hall for chamber music performances. Guided tours every day at 1:30pm. Pest VI, Liszt Ferenc tér 8. T: (+36 1) 462 4600, Map D6 MADÁCH THEATER A grand modern playhouse featuring cool wall paintings and elaborate productions of hit musicals like Cats and Mary Poppins. English subtitles provided for some shows. Pest VII, Erzsébet krt. 29-33. T: (+36 1) 478 2041, Map D7 MARGARET ISLAND OPEN-AIR STAGE This beautiful amphitheater is surrounded by the parkland of the biggest island in the Danube, making it a splendid summertime venue. Margaret Island, under the Water Tower (accessible by bus 26 from Nyugati Square). Open in the summer. Off Map MATTHIAS CHURCH Located on Castle Hill near the Fisherman’s Bastion, this impressive church is a must-see sight for tourists with its colorful ceramic tiled roof, and richly decorated interior. It also organizes regular concerts of classical and church music. Buda I, Szentháromság tér. Map D3 MILLENÁRIS Multiple venues in Buda’s Millenáris Park offer frequent exhibitions, concerts, fairs, and special events. Buda II, Kis Rókus u. 16-20. T: (+36 1) 336 4000, Map E-F2 MOM CULTURAL CENTER A modern venue by a Buda park offering concert, theater and dance performances, along with exhibits and open-air cinema (during summer). Adjacent is a big indoor sports hall where concerts are being staged as well. Buda XII, Csörsz u. 14-18. T: (+36 1) 319 9854, and www. Map B2 MUPA BUDAPEST A huge performance center with a very impressive monthly line-up featuring the best of the best Hungarian and international artists. Pest IX, Komor Marcell u. 1, at the tram 2 Millenniumi Kulturális Központ stop. T: (+36 1) 555 3000, Off Map ÓBUDAI TÁRSASKÖR Opulent performance hall that hosts classical and ragtime concerts. Buda III, Kiskorona u. 7. T: (+36 1) 250 0288, www. Off Map ORFEUM This underground evening cabaret serves up tasty cocktails and classy entertainment, from swing and jazz shows to Frank Sinatra tributes and vaudeville shows. Closed on Mondays. Pest VII, Erzsébet krt. 43-49. T: (+36 1) 336 00 56, Map D7 PAPP LÁSZLÓ SPORTARÉNA Hungary’s largest indoor event venue, hosting major international touring concerts and Hungarian musical legends. Pest XIV, Stéfania út 2, at the M2 metro Stadionok stop. T: (+36 1) 422 2600, Off Map 11

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