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The_Hollywood_Reporter__February_07_2018

Style KIdman Rae

Style KIdman Rae Nyong’o Brown Britton Thompson W LINGUA FRANCA Winners of the New Woke Red Carpet As ‘Who are you wearing?’ is phased out of preshows, fashion labels feel the burn, but savvy brands attached to feminist stars are reaping the benefits: ‘Time’s Up has added a new dimension’ By Booth Moore ith Time’s Up pins outshining diamond jewelry and designer name-dropping on the red carpet at a minimum, is fashion this awards season’s biggest loser? “After the mad dash for black at the Golden Globes and media conversations directed toward the #MeToo movement, designer brands are not the winners,” says Stacy Jones, CEO of entertainment and fashion marketing firm Hollywood Branded Inc. The cancellation of E!’s Fashion Police in November — then Beyonce and Lorde skipping the Grammy carpet in response to an antiwage inequality petition calling for an E! News boycott — may signal the end of an era for preshow fashion commentary. PRABAL GURUNG “I don’t think it will return to being a one-dimensional conversation about fashion on the red carpet,” says Time’s Up founding member Amanda de Cadenet. Although most designers understand why the gender equality message takes precedence, even feminists like Prabal Gurung are “wish[ing] actresses got asked why they chose to wear the particular designer.” Luxury brands, of course, still are moving heaven and earth to dress stars. “We’re seeing the fashion discussion moving more to the digital space, where designers, publicists or stars themselves are pushing out info about styles,” says Jones. British house Ralph & Russo may have gone unnamed during preshows (as did Nicole Kidman’s ARMANI Armani at the SAG Awards), but it still stacks up as a big winner, dressing such “woke” A-listers as Lupita Nyong’o. Her gray gown at the SAG Awards reached 713.5 million readers, at a PR value of $13,084,612, says Jones. Notes CEO Michael Russo, “Time’s Up has added a new dimension to the red carpet for brands.” Gurung received multiple inquiries from potential customers about Issa Rae’s dramatic black gown at the Golden Globes. According to retail analytics company EDITED, sales of black dresses increased by 225 percent from Jan. 1 to 18 compared with the same period last year. With all-black at the Globes — also planned for the Feb. 18 BAFTAs — and all-white onstage RALPH & RUSSO CONVERSE at the Grammys making headlines, unlikely faves have emerged, including Lingua Franca, Rachelle Hruska MacPherson’s New York label of hand-embroidered cashmere. After Connie Britton wore a “Poverty Is Sexist” sweater at the Globes (Tessa Thompson later wore a version with first names of female directors), “we got hundreds of emails,” says MacPherson. Reese Witherspoon ordered 20 Lingua Franca “Time’s Up” sweaters for Eva Longoria and other supporters. Converse enjoyed the rare shout-out at the SAG Awards by Millie Bobby Brown, who wore Chuck Taylors with her pink Calvin Klein dress. “Converse are cool!” says Jones. Now, even more so. BRITTON: JOE SCARNICI/GETTY IMAGES. THOMPSON: PHILLIP FARAONE/GETTY IMAGES. RAE, NYONG’O: STEVE GRANITZ/WIREIMAGE. KIDMAN: AXELLE/ BAUER-GRIFFIN/FILMMAGIC. BROWN: JOHN SHEARER/GETTY IMAGES. AMERICAN: COURTESY OF ABRAMS BOOKS (2). PURSE: COURTESY OF 18008456790. THR Read Runways and Hollywood: A Long Love Affair FROM ITS SLEEPY BEGINNINGS to today’s star-laden productions, New York Fashion Week and its evolution are chronicled in American Runway (Abrams, $65), by THR style and fashion news director Booth Moore. “Once [publicist Eleanor Lambert] launched Press Week in 1943, the era of the American designer started,” writes Council of Fashion Designers of America board chair Diane von Furstenberg in the foreword (Moore worked with CFDA on the book). Celebrating its 75th anniversary, NYFW has had its fair share of Hollywood moments on its way to becoming a globally live-streamed event. “I underestimated the interest in fashion and how people are intrigued by the alchemy of something,” says Michael Kors of his early reticence about doing Project Runway, which debuted in 2004 and is now on its 16th season. As did exec producer Harvey Weinstein, recalls producer Desiree Gruber: “He didn’t [initially] understand the excitement of bringing an idea from a designer’s sketch to fabrication onto a model’s body to the runway.” — LAURIE BROOKINS Bottega Veneta just moved its show and store from Milan to NYC. Bag, $2,800. “You are literally being manhandled until they push you out on the runway … it’s a live performance,” says Cindy Crawford of NYFW in American Runway. THE HOLLYWOOD REPORTER 52 FEBRUARY 7, 2018

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