Estela Magazine: Issue XXIX Cover 2

Tell us about your SS18 collection; what’s the inspiration
behind it? What is the mission statement?
RAY: My SS18 collection was about how I as a
designer could help the fashion industry reduce
carbon footprint and infuse sustainability. I moved
away from digital prints and used natural plant dyes to
create a juxtaposition with handmade embroideries,
leaf and petal prints. Some of the fabrics used were a
mix of banana blends, organic cottons, organic silks
and bamboo blends. Natural dyes such as onion peel
extracts, Indian madder, basil, and turmeric were
also used.
As a designer I have always tried different methods
to reduce carbon footprint. This being my third show
at New York Fashion Week for spring, I decided to
use the plant itself without killing it or endangering
the environment around it.
Have any of the current trends influenced this
collection?
RAY: Botanical prints have been a huge [trend] for
the past season, so I decided to take that across.
The cross between minimalism and intricate
embroidery too was something that I played with.
What was your creative process like? Were there
any obstacles you were faced with while creating?
RAY: The creative process was challenging. As
we pressed the chlorophyll onto fabrics such as
silks and cottons, the stain would react very differently
with every fabric. On certain cottons, they
would start aging and the color would change
in a few days; on silks, the green would remain.
except for rose petals, which gave its natural color.
So even yellow flowers that when pressed gave a blue
hue. The trial and error was interesting, as it taught
me how plant protein reacted on different fabrics
and on animal protein such as silk. I am still learning
a lot though. Next time I shall tie up with a botanist!
Which piece or look is your personal favorite?
RAY: I have a lot of pieces that are my favorites,
as they have involved intricate handiwork.
The aging of natural prints are a beauty to behold,
from green turning to brown on cottons, while some
were still vividly green on silks. The beauty of this
was that the leaves gave an almost fossilized effect
when pressed. There is a crop top and skirt which
is of mixed media involving leaves and embroidery
on banana cotton which still holds my fancy as the
embroidery talks of the garden and the visits by
bees and other birds. A world that we would love to
have our children enjoy.
Describe the woman that wears Runa Ray.
RAY: The woman who wears my brand is the
authentic woman, who would like to know where
her clothes come from. A woman who feels responsible
for the world she will leave behind. She is sexy,
confident and intelligent.
What’s next for you?
RAY: To explore various unique methods for sustainability,
to make sure that all my clothes are
decomposable, and to have the ability to give them
back to mother earth and create the circle of life
once again.
Most flowers gave an indigo hue when pressed,
ESTELA | 81