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FSR magazine April 2018

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NO. 53<br />

FULL-SERVICE RESTAURANTS : SETTING AMERICA’S TABLE<br />

®<br />

Cauliflower<br />

Power<br />

Getting Real<br />

About<br />

Real Estate<br />

Waste Not.<br />

Earn More.<br />

How to Host<br />

an Imported<br />

Beer Dinner<br />

Feast in the Middle East<br />

In a region with a<br />

storied past, Middle<br />

Eastern cuisine carries<br />

the eclectic history<br />

of its varied origins.


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It’s one more way we are Serving Experience <br />

to support your success by combining<br />

inspired tableware, trend knowledge and<br />

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Discover insights that help bring<br />

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© 2017 Libbey Inc. Microban ® is a registered trademark of Microban ® Products Company.


<strong>April</strong> <strong>2018</strong> No. 53<br />

®<br />

38<br />

46<br />

Fresh takes on<br />

middle eastern<br />

at zahav in<br />

philadelphia<br />

are just one way<br />

the cuisine is<br />

making a splash.<br />

Middle eastern cuisine: cook n solo restaurants / chef coMpeitions: World food chaMpionships / real estate: rockit ranch<br />

54<br />

Traversing<br />

46 Civilization’s<br />

Breadbasket<br />

By maggie Hennessy<br />

From Egypt to Lebanon to Iran, you’ll<br />

find overlap in dishes like tabbouleh,<br />

pilaf, and hummus, but each dish differs<br />

heavily by region.<br />

Contents<br />

38 Ready. Set.<br />

Compete.<br />

By Laura ZoLman KirK<br />

How chef competitions can benefit<br />

both chef and industry alike.<br />

54 Getting Real<br />

About Real Estate<br />

By amanda BaLtaZar<br />

How to choose a new site in a new<br />

city or state goes beyond the old<br />

adage, ‘location, location, location.’<br />

cheFs & ingredients<br />

17 Eats, International<br />

Gert Kopera is elevating Chinese<br />

food through his role with<br />

international restaurant group<br />

Hakkasan.<br />

liquid intelligence<br />

28 Sips from the<br />

Mediterranean Sea<br />

Unique flavors, textures, and aromas<br />

arrive on menus influenced by<br />

Mediterranean culture.<br />

FOODNEWSFEED.cOm april <strong>2018</strong> 1


Contents<br />

11<br />

FoodNewsfeed.com <strong>April</strong> <strong>2018</strong> No. 53<br />

25<br />

33<br />

First Course<br />

11 Cauliflower Power<br />

When California Pizza Kitchen<br />

announces its newest crust is made of<br />

cauliflower—that’s when you know<br />

a once fringe ingredient has gone<br />

mainstream.<br />

12 Waste Not. Earn More.<br />

A handy infographic explaining how<br />

reducing waste can send lost revenue<br />

back to your bottom line.<br />

CheFs & ingredients<br />

22 Moves Toward Middle<br />

Eastern<br />

Bright, simple, and wholesome<br />

ingredients from Israeli, Greek, and<br />

Middle Eastern influences shine<br />

through on modern menus.<br />

25 Reimagined, with<br />

Respect to Roots<br />

When developing authentic menus,<br />

staying true to a specific cuisine while<br />

also flexing creativity is easier said<br />

than done.<br />

Liquid inteLLigenCe<br />

33 For Sake’s Sake<br />

Now is the time to explore sake.<br />

35 How to Host an Imported<br />

Beer Dinner<br />

Create a menu that marries global<br />

cuisine with imported beers.<br />

BaCk oF house<br />

72 An Oklahoma City Star<br />

on the Rise<br />

PERSPECTIVES At just 33, restaurateur<br />

Rachel Cope has taken OKC by storm<br />

with five concepts.<br />

75 A More Human Touch<br />

of Tech<br />

FINANCE Streamlined operations<br />

through new tech never come at the<br />

expense of customer care.<br />

77 The F&B Bookkeepers<br />

SERVICE How specialized accountants<br />

can make all the difference.<br />

80 Where Chefs Eat<br />

DANNY MENA The co-owner of new<br />

Bushwick traditional Mexican café<br />

La Loncheria lists his neighborhood<br />

haunts.<br />

CORRECTION: The photo of kevin Burke in<br />

the rising stars feature on page 56 of the<br />

march issue was taken by Taylor made<br />

Photography.<br />

Also in this issue 4 highlights from Foodnewsfeed.com 6 Brand stories 8 editor’s Welcome 78 Advertising index<br />

<strong>FSR</strong> is a trademark of Journalistic, Inc. and the content of this <strong>magazine</strong> is copyright © <strong>2018</strong> Journalistic, Inc. All rights reserved. Printed in USA. The opinions of columnists are their own. Publication of their writing<br />

does not imply endorsement by Journalistic, Inc. <strong>FSR</strong> <strong>magazine</strong> (ISSN 2325-2154) is published monthly by Journalistic, Inc., 101 Europa Drive, Suite 150, Chapel Hill, NC 27517-2380. Periodicals postage paid at Chapel<br />

Hill, NC, and at additional entry points. SUBSCRIPTIONS: (800) 662-4834, www.FoodNewsfeed.com/subscribe. <strong>FSR</strong> is provided without charge upon request to individuals residing in the U.S. meeting subscription<br />

criteria as set forth by the publisher. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to <strong>FSR</strong>, 101 Europa Drive, Suite 150, Chapel Hill, NC 27517-2380. No part of this <strong>magazine</strong> may be reproduced in any fashion without the<br />

expressed written consent of Journalistic, Inc.<br />

ThinksTock / Lori Luo, Ani rAmen house / hAikArA sAke / ThinksTock<br />

2 APriL <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COm


Fries, reimagined.<br />

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SIDEWINDERS Fries turn up the front-of-house<br />

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SIDEWINDERS Fries are destined for signature<br />

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Exclusively<br />

from Simplot.<br />

Learn more at simplotfoods.com/sidewinders.<br />

© <strong>2018</strong> J. R. Simplot Company SIDEWINDERS is a trademark of the J.R. Simplot Company. Our unique SIDEWINDERS Fries are proprietary and patented under one or more patents and<br />

pending patent applications. See www.simplotfoods.com/patents for more details.


E-NEWSLETTERS<br />

We now have a full suite of<br />

e-newsletters beyond our<br />

flagship FS Insider:<br />

WHAT’S ON A guide to the best in<br />

foodservice video.<br />

RES-TECH Our latest content<br />

about restaurant technology.<br />

BEVERAGE NEWS & TRENDS Our latest<br />

content about the beverage<br />

business in restaurants.<br />

FoodNewsfeed.com/subscribe<br />

THE MOST POPULAR STORIES ON OUR WEBSITE, OR WHAT YOUR PEERS ARE READING<br />

Online<br />

FOODNEWSFEED.COM<br />

BIG PORTIONS AND A<br />

DIVERSE MENU HAVE<br />

MADE CODY’S A HIT IN THE<br />

SUNSHINE STATE? UP NEXT:<br />

THE ENTIRE SOUTHEAST.<br />

GETTING SOCIAL<br />

Twitter Twitter.com/<strong>FSR</strong>mag<br />

Facebook Facebook.com/<strong>FSR</strong>mag<br />

RESEARCH<br />

Whitepapers<br />

FoodNewsfeed.com/whitepapers<br />

Industry Reports<br />

FoodNewsfeed.com/reports<br />

INDUSTRY NEWS IN YOUR INBOX<br />

Sign up for FS Insider, our<br />

four-times-weekly e-letter.<br />

Text <strong>FSR</strong> to 33233 or visit<br />

FoodNewsfeed.com/insider<br />

CODY’S ROADHOUSE<br />

Cody’s Original Roadhouse Preps for Florida Takeover<br />

The 16-unit brand, founded in 1994, is ready to franchise its way across the<br />

Southeast, with a goal of 100 restaurants in the next five years. But first, Cody’s will<br />

grow in the Sunshine State, a market as diverse and challenging as they come.<br />

FoodNewsfeed.com/Codys-FL-Takeover<br />

5 SECRETS FROM<br />

DC’S RESTAURANT<br />

WUNDERKIND<br />

At 25, Carlie Steiner<br />

became co-owner of Himitsu<br />

in Washington, D.C.<br />

Since the restaurant first<br />

opened in 2017, lines have<br />

formed for a spot in one<br />

of only 24 seats. Steiner<br />

shares her tricks of the<br />

trade.<br />

FoodNewsfeed.com/<br />

Wunderkind-Secrets<br />

21 OF AMERICA’S MOST<br />

LEGENDARY RESTAURANTS<br />

These iconic institutions<br />

have dominated the<br />

country’s dining scene<br />

for decades—sometimes<br />

even centuries. Great<br />

food and outstanding<br />

service never go out of<br />

style. Check out which<br />

legendary eateries made<br />

the list.<br />

FoodNewsfeed.com/<br />

Legendary-21<br />

THE A–Z OF BUILDING<br />

RESTAURANT LOYALTY<br />

Many companies concentrate<br />

on the importance of<br />

engaging with the millennial<br />

generation, but currently<br />

there are four generations<br />

with spending<br />

power to consider. Is your<br />

restaurant ready to rise up<br />

and meet the changing<br />

demand?<br />

FoodNewsfeed.com/<br />

Generational-Loyalty<br />

PLUS FREE SUBSCRIPTIONS / SIPS APPEAL / HEALTHY EATING / LEADER PERSPECTIVES<br />

4 APRIL <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COM


The Brand<br />

ShINES ON.<br />

The<br />

Stands Alone.<br />

Jimmy Dean ® Bacon offers a truly unique flavor profile. Our culinary team calls it a smoked sugar cured<br />

boldness that carries a finely-tuned balance of salt, sweet and smoked. It delivers a dynamic palate<br />

appeal while not wavering from that classic Jimmy Dean ® Bacon quality. Your customers will love it.<br />

Learn more: tysonfoodservice.com<br />

©<strong>2018</strong> Tyson Foods, Inc. Trademarks and registered trademarks are owned by Tyson Foods, Inc. or its subsidiaries, or used under license.


APRIL<br />

®<br />

Brand Stories inside <strong>FSR</strong><br />

IN PRINT<br />

37 Meet Me at NRA Show<br />

FABIO VIVIANI This celebrity chef and restaurateur<br />

explains why he has been attending NRA Show for<br />

over a decade.<br />

{ SPONSORED BY THE NATIONAL RESTAURANT ASSOCIATION }<br />

TRENDING ON THE MENU<br />

63 Chef Tools<br />

As pressure on restaurants grows, high-tech equipment<br />

helps chefs and their kitchens keep up with a<br />

growing list of demands.<br />

Online<br />

Go to FoodNewsfeed.com/Sponsored-Content<br />

MANAGEMENT<br />

MENU INNOVATION<br />

EDITORIAL<br />

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR<br />

Sam Oches<br />

Sam@<strong>FSR</strong><strong>magazine</strong>.com<br />

EDITOR<br />

Laura D’Alessandro<br />

LauraD@<strong>FSR</strong><strong>magazine</strong>.com<br />

SENIOR EDITOR<br />

Nicole Duncan<br />

Nicole@<strong>FSR</strong><strong>magazine</strong>.com<br />

ASSOCIATE EDITOR<br />

Laura Zolman Kirk<br />

Laura@<strong>FSR</strong><strong>magazine</strong>.com<br />

FOOD EDITOR<br />

Amelia Levin<br />

FoodEditor@<strong>FSR</strong><strong>magazine</strong>.com<br />

CUSTOM CONTENT EDITOR<br />

Peggy Carouthers<br />

Peggy@<strong>FSR</strong><strong>magazine</strong>.com<br />

DIGITAL CONTENT EDITOR<br />

Danny Klein<br />

Danny@<strong>FSR</strong><strong>magazine</strong>.com<br />

PRODUCTION & DESIGN<br />

ART DIRECTOR<br />

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WHAT RESTAURANTS<br />

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{ SPONSORED BY 7SHIFTS }<br />

HOW TO REFRESH<br />

BREAKFAST MENUS IN<br />

<strong>2018</strong><br />

These tips make updating<br />

menus to reflect<br />

trendy new offerings<br />

simple.<br />

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6 APRIL <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COM


Idaho ® Potato Pairings<br />

Idaho® Potatoes & Vegan Recipes<br />

Overloaded Vegan<br />

Baked Potato<br />

12 Idaho® Potatoes<br />

6 C Vegan Nacho Cheese Sauce<br />

3 C Spicy Corn<br />

3 C Black Beans<br />

3 C Vegan Sour Cream<br />

Chef Jennifer DiFrancesco<br />

Pitchforks, Canisius College<br />

Buffalo, NY<br />

The Passion<br />

As the vegan trend continues,<br />

Idaho® Potatoes are a great recipe<br />

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For this and other recipes from chefs<br />

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IDAHOPOTATO.COM/FSPRO


Welcome<br />

Magic in the Middle East<br />

In AprIl of 2012, I took an early birthday trip, boarded a flight around midnight<br />

at Dulles International Airport, and was eating falafel on the cobbled<br />

streets of Istanbul by the next evening. It was love at first bite—not that I<br />

hadn’t had falafel before. The first time was in Amsterdam, actually, and<br />

I literally cried tears of joy. But there was something different that I loved<br />

about the falafel in Turkey, and something else I loved even more around<br />

every corner.<br />

After the falafel came the fasulye, stewed white beans in tomatoes with<br />

bread or rice to soak up the broth. Next it was gooey, cheesy pide, a football-shaped<br />

flatbread with an egg in the middle that every Middle Eastern<br />

and Mediterranean culture has a version of (most well-known, perhaps, is<br />

Georgian khachapuri). At crowded hookah bars, I was delighted by small<br />

bowls of dried chickpeas served the way Americans serve beer nuts. And at<br />

seemingly every restaurant, I was thrilled by fresh, simple salads.<br />

Maybe it was what the French call terroir—the way the soil made the<br />

vegetables taste, the way the air smelled, the way the breeze tousled my<br />

hair, and how crisp that Efes pilsner tasted on tap. But to me, it was magic.<br />

Fast-forward three years and I made a pilgrimage to the Holy Land to<br />

visit a dear Israeli friend whose mother served us a full brunch in her apartment<br />

facing the Mediterranean Sea. The shakshuka tasted better than any<br />

I’d ever had, but maybe that was because it was imbued with the sense of<br />

place.<br />

The table at Ima’s was bursting—salads, smoked fish, fresh cheese,<br />

creamy dips, flaky pastries, seeded breads, and three types of olives, at<br />

least. Among the pastries was something that reminded me of a breakfast<br />

I’d had in Turkey. It was paper-thin phyllo dough wrapped around cheese<br />

and meat filling and baked until golden and flaky. In Turkey, it’s called<br />

börek and is rolled like a cigar. In Israel, they serve bourekas, and the<br />

phyllo is layered and cut into puffed, stuffed squares.<br />

While I love bread and pastries (who doesn’t?), the city of Tel Aviv had<br />

something my heart truly desires: fresh juice. Across from the Airbnb<br />

where I stayed was a stand overflowing with bright orange and yellow citrus,<br />

crisp green leaves, blushing pink apples, earthy ginger roots, and deep<br />

purple beets. In the week I was there I maxed out the stand’s punch card<br />

and earned myself a free smoothie. It was paradise.<br />

Both trips gave me tremendous insight into food and life. It was in Israel,<br />

in fact, that I began plotting my move to Los Angeles to scout the food<br />

scene. Upon arrival in the City of Angels in October of 2016, a friend took<br />

me to a local Armenian institution: Zankou Chicken. I dipped an unusually<br />

soft falafel into the creamiest, dreamiest tahini and cut the richness with a<br />

beet-pickled turnip. Yep, there was some magic in there.<br />

Laura D’Alessandro<br />

Editor<br />

LauraD@Fsr<strong>magazine</strong>.com<br />

Fsrmag<br />

@Fsr<strong>magazine</strong><br />

On the Cover<br />

To my joy, the popularity of Mediterranean/Middle<br />

eastern cuisine—and specifically<br />

Israeli cuisine in recent years—<br />

has skyrocketed in the u.s. i’ve been<br />

lucky enough to find myself talking<br />

shakshuka with some of the top chefs in<br />

the country. but each cuisine, like each<br />

person who loves it, has its own story.<br />

Take a look into the cuisine’s collective<br />

storied past on Page 46, zoom in on the<br />

region’s ingredients on Page 22, and get<br />

a creative take on cocktails on Page 28.<br />

You might just find a place for some<br />

creamy, dreamy tahini on your menu yet,<br />

if you haven’t already.<br />

Laura: Libby McGowen / ThinksTock<br />

8 apriL <strong>2018</strong> FoodNEWSFEEd.com


EVERY VINE<br />

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affirming our best practices and commitment to our customers’ preferences.<br />

To learn more, visit ANGELAMIA.COM<br />

© 2017 Conagra Brands, Inc. All rights reserved.


We’ve taken the bold, balanced flavor of Texas Pete ® Original Hot Sauce and created<br />

Texas Pete ® Original Dust Dry Seasoning to bring even more versatility to your menu.<br />

With lower sodium than the competitors, Dust will be your new favorite seasoning.<br />

Learn more at TexasPeteFoodservice.com/Dust


First course<br />

thinkstock<br />

Versatile cauliflower is<br />

making its way into<br />

menus by masquerading<br />

as pizza and burgers.<br />

Cauliflower Power<br />

By Laura D’aLessanDro<br />

What is a<br />

menu without<br />

cauliflower<br />

these days?<br />

When California Pizza KitChen announces<br />

its newest crust is made of cauliflower—<br />

that’s when you know. the beloved lowcarb,<br />

gluten-free ingredient has gone from<br />

fringe trend to mainstream menu star.<br />

the national pizza chain announced<br />

in late January that its newest nationwide<br />

rollout would be the introduction of<br />

a cauliflower pizza crust. CPK also touted<br />

the crust as a “unique source of vegetable<br />

fuel.”<br />

“Rich in nutrients and low in carbs, cauliflower<br />

is a powerhouse ingredient that<br />

continues to show its versatility and popu-<br />

FOODNEWSFEED.com APril <strong>2018</strong> 11


First Course<br />

larity as the star—not the side—of the<br />

plate,” says Brian Sullivan, senior vice<br />

president of culinary innovation for CPK.<br />

And, surprisingly, that’s what diners<br />

want more of these days: vegetables,<br />

or vegetables disguised or dressed up<br />

in unusual ways.<br />

Pizza crust is just one way restaurants<br />

big and small are integrating the<br />

cruciferous chameleon into their menus.<br />

Hard Rock Cafe used cauliflower in a<br />

burger on its first-ever meatless menu.<br />

Major food vendor US Foods released<br />

spicy battered cauliflower as a product<br />

in late summer of 2017.<br />

But for those watching the industry<br />

and its menus, this change has been a<br />

long time coming. Just ask Liz Vaknin,<br />

cofounder and experiential marketer<br />

at New York–based Our Name Is Farm.<br />

Vaknin and cofounder Shelley Golan<br />

work with local food growers as well as<br />

the consumer markets those farmers<br />

serve to bridge the gap.<br />

“I grew up noticing the versatility of<br />

this relatively cheap, hearty, and gluten-free<br />

vegetable that is very high in<br />

nutritional value if eaten fresh,” Vaknin<br />

says. “My family is of Jewish, Middle<br />

Eastern, and North African background,<br />

so growing up I ate cauliflower in<br />

many different versions: in a beef stew<br />

braised with turmeric, paprika, white<br />

pepper, and garlic; fried or roasted with<br />

tahini or yogurt and sumac; stuffed with<br />

seasoned lamb kefta and braised in a<br />

spiced tomato sauce; in root vegetable<br />

pickles preserved with turmeric and<br />

chilies; the list is never-ending.”<br />

It’s quite a contrast to sneaking it<br />

into pizza crusts or mac and cheese,<br />

but that’s not a bad thing. As Vaknin<br />

puts it, everyone else is just catching<br />

up. Familiar iterations with cauliflower<br />

hidden inside could be the beginning.<br />

“Americans are using cauliflower in<br />

applications that are already familiar<br />

to them, to make the vegetable more<br />

appealing, like in pizza, buffalo style, or<br />

mac and cheese,” Vaknin says. “Once<br />

they feel comfortable with the vegetable<br />

in general … I believe they’ll find<br />

more creative ways to prepare and consume<br />

it, too.”<br />

Waste Not. Earn More.<br />

It’s an issue everyone in the industry is talking (and worrying)<br />

about, including 1,300 chefs who reported that food waste<br />

reduction was a top priority in the National Restaurant<br />

Association’s annual report.<br />

Food costs<br />

represent<br />

up to<br />

35%<br />

of a<br />

restaurant’s<br />

gross<br />

income.<br />

CONSUMERS ARE CONCERNED, TOO<br />

A study by Unilever revealed:<br />

72%<br />

OF U.S.<br />

DINERS<br />

CARE<br />

about how<br />

restaurants<br />

handle<br />

food waste.<br />

$8<br />

COST SAVINGS<br />

COSTS<br />

$16<br />

BILLION<br />

ANNUALLY<br />

72 %<br />

Diners<br />

Care<br />

SOURCE: REFED’S <strong>2018</strong> RESTAURANT FOOD WASTE ACTION GUIDE<br />

52.4<br />

MILLION<br />

tons of food waste<br />

is sent to landfills in the<br />

U.S. each year, and<br />

7.3 MILLION<br />

tons of that comes from<br />

full-service restaurants.<br />

It costs the industry<br />

$16 billion annually.<br />

47 %<br />

would be<br />

willing to<br />

SPEND<br />

MORE<br />

to eat at a<br />

restaurant with a<br />

waste reduction<br />

program.<br />

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For every dollar a restaurant<br />

spends on food waste<br />

reduction, it can realize<br />

$8 of cost savings.<br />

In total, restaurants could<br />

achieve an additional<br />

$620 MILLION IN PROFIT<br />

potential per year by adopting<br />

waste prevention strategies.<br />

12 APRIL <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COM


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Referrals<br />

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With great power comes great responsibility—but it<br />

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RESTAURANT<br />

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23% 25%<br />

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DATA COURTESY OF UPSERVE / THINKSTOCK<br />

14 APRIL <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COM


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IngredIents<br />

Middle<br />

Eastern and<br />

Mediterranean<br />

page 22<br />

trendIng<br />

Developing<br />

authentic<br />

menus<br />

page 25<br />

Chefs &<br />

Ingredients<br />

haKKasan’s<br />

crispy ducK<br />

salad<br />

Eats,<br />

International<br />

Hakkasan<br />

By AmelIA levIn<br />

Gert Kopera acts to elevate<br />

Chinese food in his role with<br />

international restaurant<br />

group Hakkasan.<br />

gert Kopera, executive vice president of global restaurants at the<br />

international restaurant group Hakkasan Group, believes in changing<br />

global perceptions around Chinese food.<br />

“Chinese food in China can actually be quite expensive, not at all like<br />

the comfort food or fast food many are accustomed to seeing. The smokiness<br />

of the wok, the crunch and play with textures, the various smells<br />

FOODNEWSFEED.COm april <strong>2018</strong> 17


Chefs & IngredI ents ProfI le<br />

and shochu cocktails—it’s about the<br />

whole experience of Hakkasan that we<br />

are trying to package and continue to<br />

develop, step by step,” Kopera says of<br />

the Hakkasan restaurant brand, which<br />

is managed by the Hakkasan Group. “It’s<br />

a distinctly driven process, and we’re<br />

excited to see the next generation of elevated<br />

Chinese cuisine.”<br />

After opening its original Hakkasan<br />

restaurant location in London in 2001,<br />

Hakkasan Group has grown to represent<br />

17 different brands with 41 locations<br />

total, 21 of which are under direct Hakkasan<br />

Group management in the U.S.<br />

Focused on high-end, modern Cantonese<br />

cuisine, the four Hakkasan restaurants<br />

in the U.S. have long been<br />

known for popular dishes like Black<br />

Truffle Roasted Duck, Roasted Silver<br />

Cod with Champagne and Chinese<br />

Honey Sauce, Stir Fry Black Pepper Ribeye<br />

Beef with Merlot, and an assortment<br />

of creative dim sum offerings. The<br />

U.S. Hakkasan restaurants are located<br />

in New York, San Francisco, Las Vegas,<br />

and Miami while another seven are in<br />

locations like London and Doha, Qatar,<br />

with two more set to open in Indonesia<br />

and Saudi Arabia in <strong>2018</strong>.<br />

Kopera, who is based in Las Vegas,<br />

leans on his 30 years of experience in<br />

the international hospitality industry<br />

Gert<br />

koPera<br />

“We are seeing a lot more vegetables come into<br />

play in Chinese cuisine and a more sophisticated<br />

play on textures with lighter sauces.”<br />

yauatcha’S<br />

edaMaMe<br />

truFFle<br />

duMPlinG.<br />

hakkaSan’S<br />

Grilled chilean<br />

SeaBaSS.<br />

Stir-Fry<br />

Black PePPer<br />

riB eye<br />

BeeF with<br />

Merlot FroM<br />

hakkaSan.<br />

Hakkasan<br />

18 april <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.cOm


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to guide his work at Hakkasan Group.<br />

Before joining the group in 2017, he<br />

served at the COO for restaurant group<br />

d.ream and senior vice president of food<br />

and beverage for in hospitality company<br />

Jumeirah Group. He also spent<br />

15 years with Rosewood Hotels and 12<br />

years with Hilton International in various<br />

positions with an integral role in<br />

food and beverage development.<br />

At the Hakkasan Group, Kopera<br />

oversees a team of VPs that is both horizontally<br />

and vertically structured. For<br />

example, he oversees the VP of Operations<br />

U.K., who handles all restaurants<br />

across all brands in Europe, but he also<br />

works with the brand directors for the<br />

various restaurant concepts including<br />

Hakkasan, Ling Ling—Cantonese<br />

restaurants in Greece, Morocco, and<br />

Norway—and Searsucker—American<br />

restaurants in Texas, California and<br />

Nevada .<br />

To develop menus for a restaurant<br />

group of such scale, Kopera works<br />

closely with a culinary development<br />

team that includes Michelin-starred<br />

chefs Tong Chee Hwee and Ho Chee<br />

Boon, as well as the brand’s chefs at<br />

each outpost to drive new dish ideas.<br />

“We are aiming to build a culinary<br />

team for our development in Asia, but<br />

for now we have our team in London,”<br />

says Kopera, who travels regularly to<br />

the various Hakkasan locations in the<br />

U.S. and abroad to check in and assist<br />

with menu development.<br />

Naturally, because neither Kopera<br />

nor the head chefs can be everywhere<br />

at once, they rely on feedback from<br />

customers as well as special advisory<br />

boards, which are made up of seasoned<br />

culinary and hospitality professionals<br />

on Kopera’s contact list.<br />

“If the soup is too peppery or the skin<br />

of the dim sum is too thick or needs<br />

color, these are things we will report<br />

back to the culinary team, and they<br />

will work on their dishes,” Kopera says.<br />

When putting together new dishes<br />

or special menus, Hakkasan Group will<br />

first have its advisory board members<br />

come into the restaurant to test out<br />

dishes before they are tweaked and put<br />

© 2017 Libbey Inc.<br />

FOODNEWSFEED.COM


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it comes to bringing in other local influences from<br />

different parts of the world.”<br />

on the menu, or not.<br />

Trends, customer feedback (shared<br />

especially through social media), and<br />

changing consumer patterns drive new<br />

menu development. “We are seeing a<br />

lot more vegetables come into play in<br />

Chinese cuisine and a more sophisticated<br />

play on textures with lighter<br />

sauces,” Kopera says. “We have been<br />

refining dishes such that the plate<br />

might look similar, but the honey sauce<br />

is definitely lighter with less sugar and<br />

there is more of an emphasis on nonmeat<br />

ingredients and textures.”<br />

Hakkasan Group events like worldwide<br />

chef competitions also help spur<br />

new ideas for menus. For example, last<br />

October, five chefs competed in Shanghai<br />

to go on to compete against winners<br />

from Hakkasan Group teams in<br />

Doha, Qatar, Abu Dhabi, U.A.E. and<br />

Dubai, U.A.E.<br />

Some of the dishes from that event,<br />

such as a curry dumpling that was<br />

developed in India to cater to a highly<br />

<br />

vegetarian consumer base, have since<br />

led to new dim sum options at Yauatcha,<br />

a dim sum and chinese restaurant<br />

brand with locations in Texas and<br />

Hawaii, as well as India, the U.K., and<br />

Saudi Arabia.<br />

“Now that we’re seeing the rise of<br />

more vegetarian dishes in general, we<br />

are bringing some of those ideas from<br />

the India locations to the U.S.,” Kopera<br />

says. “It’s easy to be more experimental<br />

with dim sum when it comes to bringing<br />

in other local influences from different<br />

parts of the world.”<br />

As region-specific Chinese food<br />

fever grows, including interest in the<br />

modernized Cantonese variety Hakkasan<br />

restaurants serves, Kopera sees<br />

the Hakkasan Group’s role as necessary<br />

to guiding the narrative away<br />

from the “cheap” comfort food image.<br />

“I think Hakkasan continues to serve<br />

as a benchmark for high-end Chinese<br />

food, similar to what Nobu did for Japanese<br />

food,” he says.<br />

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CHEFS & INGREDIENTS INGREDIENTS<br />

Moves Toward Middle Eastern<br />

and Mediterranean<br />

BY AMELIA LEVIN As more restaurants and chefs rally around these bright, simple, and wholesome<br />

cuisines, the crossovers with Israeli, Greek, and Middle Eastern influences shine through on<br />

modern menus. Here are a few ingredients trending at the moment.<br />

Tahini<br />

Chef Wyatt Lash<br />

The Commoner<br />

PITTSBURGH<br />

No longer reserved for<br />

making hummus, chefs<br />

are enjoying tahini on or<br />

blended with just about<br />

anything. When it comes<br />

to vegetables, the sesame<br />

seed paste lends an umamirich,<br />

savory note and thickening<br />

function when used<br />

in dressings and dips. Executive<br />

Chef Wyatt Lash at<br />

Hotel Monaco’s The Commoner<br />

in Pittsburgh uses<br />

tahini in a puree made<br />

with charred eggplant and<br />

24-hour brined, breaded,<br />

and charred cauliflower. This<br />

forms the base for a more<br />

composed dish with more<br />

breaded cauliflower pieces<br />

that are fried, tossed in a<br />

harissa buffalo sauce, and<br />

served with crispy chickpeas,<br />

coconut flakes, and a cooling<br />

yogurt sauce.<br />

THINKSTOCK<br />

22 APRIL <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COM


ChefS & i ngredientS i ngredientS<br />

Chef Heidi Krahling<br />

Insalata’s<br />

San anSelmo, California<br />

More chefs are reaching for<br />

pomegranates—from the<br />

seeds, juice, and even the<br />

molasses made from it—<br />

for that bright pop of tang,<br />

adding acidity in marinades,<br />

salads, sauces, and more. At<br />

Insalata’s in San Anselmo,<br />

California, chef and coowner<br />

Heidi Krahling uses<br />

pomegranate molasses in<br />

a one-hour marinade for<br />

lamb skewers, combining<br />

the ingredient with lemon<br />

juice, cumin, salt, and pepper<br />

before broiling or grilling<br />

the lamb loin pieces.<br />

She serves the skewers with<br />

a persimmon chutney made<br />

by simmering the fruit with a<br />

little brown sugar, cider vinegar,<br />

lemons, golden raisins,<br />

and a mix of spices that<br />

includes ginger, cinnamon<br />

sticks, cumin, cardamom,<br />

coriander, star anise, and<br />

whole cloves.<br />

Pomegranate<br />

Molasses<br />

ALSo try<br />

Za’atar<br />

Labneh<br />

Zhoug<br />

Sumac<br />

Canyon Ranch in<br />

Tucson, Arizona mixes<br />

pomegranate molasses<br />

with this spice blend<br />

of sesame seeds,<br />

marjoram, and sumac to<br />

marinate lamb loin.<br />

Serve with: a salad of<br />

spinach, tomatoes,<br />

crumbled feta, and<br />

dried figs.<br />

Much like a burrata<br />

appetizer, Ēma in<br />

Chicago offers this<br />

tangy Middle Eastern<br />

yogurt cheese as a<br />

refreshing starter.<br />

Serve with: toasted<br />

marcona almonds,<br />

roasted grapes, burnt<br />

honey, and toast points.<br />

Shaya in New Orleans<br />

adds this Yemen<br />

condiment of herbs,<br />

chillies, coriander,<br />

cardamom and lemon<br />

juice to its Jerusalem<br />

Mixed Grill sandwich.<br />

Serve with: chicken<br />

livers and hearts, veal<br />

sweetbreads, onions,<br />

pita, and tahini.<br />

At Bread & Wine in<br />

Chicago, this spice<br />

is used as a bright,<br />

slightly sour flavoring<br />

for honey yogurt sauce.<br />

Serve with: torn mint<br />

leaves to garnish a<br />

blend of cooked lentils,<br />

carrots, celery, onions,<br />

beans, and beets.<br />

THInKSToCK<br />

24 AprIl <strong>2018</strong> FooDNEWSFEED.com


Trending Chefs & i ngredienT s<br />

Reimagined, with<br />

Respect to Roots<br />

Lori Luo, Ani rAmen House<br />

By Mandy ellis<br />

When developing authentic menus, staying true to a specific<br />

cuisine while also flexing creativity is easier said than done.<br />

ani raMen<br />

house’s MazeMen<br />

brothless raMen.<br />

Mingling coMfort flavors with Modernity, culturally inspired menus<br />

have the power to offer diners flashbacks to childhood and travel adventures,<br />

as well as fresh experiences. Today’s full-service restaurants with authentic cuisines<br />

are leaning into to this role, blending new trends with old roots to serve<br />

up authentic, yet approachable bites.<br />

Chefs, then, are aiming to educate consumers’ taste buds by walking the fine<br />

line between staying relevant and paying respect to time-honored ingredients<br />

of specific cuisines. Finding that balance<br />

and trying to add your own creativity to<br />

the mix, however, is not an easy task.<br />

“You used to give your interpretation<br />

and customers accepted it, but if diners<br />

want to know what’s in ramen or how<br />

to make it, they access it now via the<br />

internet,” says Luck Sarabhayavanija,<br />

founder and owner of Ani Ramen House<br />

in Montclair and Jersey City, New Jersey.<br />

“There’s zero room for errors, and if<br />

you make a mistake, you’ll hear about it.”<br />

Sarabhayavanija reaches into his personal<br />

experience backpack to mix conventional<br />

tastes and current trends to<br />

spark his own slants on recipes. Ani<br />

Ramen House’s short rib ramen combines<br />

chicken and beef broth along<br />

with braised short rib for an updated<br />

dish, while its salt-based ramen that<br />

includes yuzu citrus notes is based on a<br />

restaurant experience Sarabhayavanija<br />

had traveling in Tokyo. “We went to this<br />

amazing ramen house, Afuri. They were<br />

using yuzu in ramen. I was skeptical;<br />

when I think ramen, I want a spicy bowl<br />

or something on the salty or earthy side.<br />

I don’t think of something citrus-y. [But]<br />

it worked so well,” he says. He is thrilled<br />

with the new menu addition back in New<br />

Jersey. “Every sip of broth, you get the<br />

salt, umami, and chicken broth, but it<br />

ends with a citrus note that feels like it<br />

cleanses your palate; it’s crazy,” he says.<br />

Beverly Gannon, owner and chef of<br />

Hali’imaile General Store in Makawao,<br />

Hawaii, combines memories from her<br />

childhood in Texas with Hawaiian<br />

regional cuisine for a modern tostada:<br />

duck marinated in Chinese five spice,<br />

plus jicama, cilantro, ginger chili dressing,<br />

and a crispy tortilla with hoisin<br />

sauce. “It’s taking what I knew as<br />

a tostada and creating something that<br />

evolved into what I call Mex-awaiian,”<br />

she says.<br />

Pass the<br />

Plate<br />

Shareable dishes plus appetizers are thriving because customers want<br />

to sample many menu items, Sarabhayavanija says. Tables of eight to<br />

10 diners slurp on a shared ramen bowl and split small plates to fill their<br />

desire for variety.<br />

FOODNEWSFEED.com ApriL <strong>2018</strong> 25


Chefs & IngredI ents t rendI ng<br />

Pixabay/Jonathan Valencia<br />

Cara Stadler, chef/owner of Brunswick,<br />

Maine’s Tao Yuan Restaurant, says<br />

sometimes designing a menu is about<br />

finding refreshing ways to remind customers<br />

of their own experiences. “What<br />

makes ethnic food amazing is the rich<br />

cultural identification, especially for<br />

those who have experienced the countries<br />

through travel or childhood,” she<br />

says. Stadler’s Malatang soup, a sweet<br />

broth and poached vegetables topped<br />

with spicy numbing sauce, exemplifies<br />

this, as this street food hails from a very<br />

specific Chinese region. “We put classic<br />

dishes on the menu, things from parts of<br />

China you’d have to visit to understand,”<br />

she says. For those who know the region,<br />

the Malatang soup brings nostalgia.<br />

Chefs agree that traveling and trying<br />

other chef’s cuisines helps one grasp the<br />

true elements of global dishes. But once<br />

chefs have got a good grip, they can’t<br />

chicken<br />

bao<br />

Like dumplings, bao buns are<br />

growing in popularity as a vehicle<br />

for bold flavors. Both Tao Yuan and<br />

Ani Ramen House utilize the buns<br />

as delicious blank templates for<br />

showcasing intriguing flavor profiles.<br />

be afraid to push the boundaries. “Play<br />

around. If Indian is trending and you’re<br />

doing Chinese, try an Indian-inspired<br />

dumpling,” Gannon says. “How can you<br />

make it something diners are hearing<br />

about, but with your own twist?”<br />

Be mindful, however; isolating dishes<br />

from popular flavors and ingredients is a<br />

recipe for failure. “Be open-minded, and<br />

don’t be afraid of change or ingredients<br />

you don’t recognize,” says Ben Diaz, executive<br />

chef of Los Angeles’ Mexican restaurant<br />

Toca Madera. “Embrace [trends]<br />

yet stay true to the food.”<br />

Paella at<br />

the lazy goat.<br />

The Bolder the Better<br />

With Mediterranean and indian food trending, guests are being<br />

exposed to more spicier bites. Mediterranean cuisine is moving<br />

toward Spain, Morocco, and tunisia, says craig Kuhns, of Greenville,<br />

South carolina’s the Lazy goat. he’s seeing more use of regional<br />

spice mixtures like ras el hanout and baharat. and with indian cuisine<br />

now in the mainstream, customers are on board to try more flavors<br />

within the culinary canon, says navjot arora of oLd Monk in<br />

new york city. “indian food is seeing a renaissance.”<br />

FARM<br />

FResH<br />

Following a larger shift in<br />

the food world, global<br />

cuisines are also trending<br />

more vegan, vegetarian,<br />

and organic, using clean,<br />

simple ingredients. “We’re<br />

waking up to demands for<br />

all-natural, local, organic<br />

products,” says Arora, who<br />

serves dishes like Jhaal Moori<br />

with wild rice and wasabi peas<br />

for distinct, healthier flavors.<br />

old monk’s<br />

Wild Rice<br />

Jhall mooRi.<br />

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26 aPril <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.cOm


SponS ored content<br />

How Kitchen<br />

Equipment<br />

Makes Employee<br />

Turnover Less<br />

Painful<br />

Edward NuNN dEscribEs how<br />

rEstauraNts caN usE tEchNology to<br />

miNimizE thE impacts of staff churN.<br />

EmployEE turnovEr hurts.<br />

Not only does it cost restaurants<br />

an average of $5,864<br />

to replace each employee,<br />

according to Cornell’s Center<br />

for Hospitality Research,<br />

but it also strains restaurant<br />

operations when a team is<br />

short staffed. These shortages<br />

impact food quality,<br />

customer experience, and<br />

even the morale of other<br />

employees.<br />

Using the smarter<br />

equipment, however, can<br />

boost efficiency, help restaurants<br />

cope when staff<br />

is short, and improve<br />

employee morale to prevent<br />

further turnover. Edward<br />

Nunn, Business Development<br />

Manager at Hatco<br />

Corporation, explains how.<br />

hoW can restaurants<br />

reduce the impact<br />

of turnover on<br />

operations?<br />

By definition, efficiency<br />

is the ratio of outputs to<br />

inputs. The way to improve<br />

efficiency is “doing more<br />

Edward Nunn is a Business<br />

Development Manager<br />

for the Hatco Corporation.<br />

He joined the company<br />

two years ago, bringing<br />

with him over 10 years’<br />

experience specific to light<br />

cooking equipment and<br />

food holding technology.<br />

He has worked in the North<br />

American foodservice<br />

equipment industry for<br />

nearly two decades.<br />

with less.” In foodservice,<br />

this means having a<br />

laser-like focus on labor,<br />

food, and utility costs compared<br />

to revenue. Technology<br />

is playing a key part<br />

in addressing all of these,<br />

including kiosks, mobile<br />

ordering, at-table PDQ<br />

payment systems, and<br />

improved ingredient formulations,<br />

packaging, and<br />

preparation to address food<br />

waste.<br />

What can restaurants<br />

do to improve<br />

efficiency?<br />

Self service, be it “grab and<br />

go” or drive-up collection<br />

is growing in popularity<br />

across many foodservice<br />

formats. Combined with<br />

in-advance mobile ordering,<br />

this reduces labor for<br />

serving. However, quality<br />

and perceived quality<br />

remain vital. Gen Y and the<br />

upcoming Gen Z are used<br />

to improved food quality<br />

standards, having grown<br />

up with everything from<br />

organics to better burgers.<br />

To maintain quality, yet<br />

deliver faster speed of service,<br />

better holding equipment<br />

and faster cooking<br />

methods are required. For<br />

example, speed ovens—like<br />

those from Ovention—use<br />

forced hot air and efficient<br />

food loading to dramatically<br />

cut cooking times and<br />

maintain a high quality<br />

standard. Precise, user-configurable<br />

preset programs<br />

also maintain consistent<br />

cooking results. These can<br />

be found in Hatco’s new<br />

IRNG series of induction<br />

ranges or Hatco’s TQ3<br />

toaster, which uses profiles<br />

for different bread products.<br />

Even Hatco’s drawer warmers<br />

now feature a touchscreen<br />

option with the ability<br />

to hold different draws at<br />

different temperatures and<br />

set a hold time for each.<br />

Another way to improve<br />

efficiency is to employ<br />

multi-tasking equipment,<br />

such as Hatco’s HCWBI<br />

series of hot/cold wells and<br />

HCSBF hot/cold shelves.<br />

Both hot and cold food can<br />

be stored or merchandised<br />

from the same footprint<br />

depending on the daypart<br />

or season.<br />

hoW can automated<br />

cooking technology<br />

make training neW<br />

staff easier?<br />

Programmable equipment is<br />

an obvious means to reducing<br />

or refocusing training<br />

needs. Most commercial<br />

food operations prepare<br />

and present the same thing<br />

over-and-over, and consistency<br />

is a key to brand loyalty.<br />

Checking the “reliable<br />

and consistent cooking”<br />

box, frees up time to spend<br />

on training for sanitation or<br />

customer service. Equally<br />

important, when staff does<br />

turn over, training a new<br />

team member to press the<br />

right button is easier than<br />

having to train for several<br />

complicated culinary operations.<br />

hoW can equipment<br />

help maintain<br />

customer experience<br />

despite turnover?<br />

In a saturated foodservice<br />

market, with more choice<br />

than ever in history, brand<br />

is the thing that matters<br />

most. The incoming generation<br />

of consumers is keen<br />

to identify with brands and<br />

remains very loyal. Underpinning<br />

a brand is consistency<br />

and predictability.<br />

Any equipment, procedures<br />

or technologies that supports<br />

that should be high on<br />

the list of considerations. l<br />

FOODNEWSFEED.cOm <strong>April</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 27


Wine<br />

For Sake’s<br />

Sake<br />

page 33<br />

Beer<br />

How to Host<br />

an Imported<br />

Beer Dinner<br />

page 35<br />

Liquid<br />

Intelligence<br />

Sips from the<br />

Mediterranean<br />

bybLos<br />

restaurant’s<br />

mediterraneaninfLuenced<br />

oLd<br />

fashioned.<br />

GreTa ryBuS<br />

By Barney Wolf<br />

Cocktails inspired<br />

from Greek, Italian,<br />

Levantine, and<br />

North African cuisine<br />

stack up on today’s<br />

bar menus.<br />

LabeLing something Mediterranean<br />

can be a bit simplistic. The Mediterranean<br />

Sea Basin encompasses<br />

parts of three continents, numerous<br />

nations, and various cultures, topographies,<br />

and agriculture.<br />

“The Mediterranean may have a single<br />

meaning, such as geographic, but<br />

in culinary terms it is so much more,”<br />

says Juan Coronado, brand ambassador<br />

for Bacardi. “There are unique<br />

cultures that have [Mediterranean] flavors,<br />

textures, and arom as.”<br />

Similar ingredients show up in<br />

cooking across the region, especially<br />

olive oil. So do fruits like grapes and<br />

28 april <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COm


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LIQUID INTELLIGENCE SPIRITS<br />

WORLDLY LIBATIONS<br />

EXPERTS SHARE WHAT THEY LIKE TO PAIR WITH A RANGE OF CUISINES.<br />

CUISINE: PERUVIAN<br />

PAIR IT WITH: pisco-based cocktails,<br />

White Bordeaux, Pinot Noir, and Malbec.<br />

“Our most recommended alcohol is pisco, specifically<br />

the varietal called Quebranta, for our pisco<br />

sours, pisco punch (frozen or on the rocks), and a<br />

few more craft cocktails. With cebiches we recommend<br />

pairing with Château Ducasse’s Bordeaux<br />

Blanc. For our Pollo a la Brasa dish, we recommend<br />

Montinore Estate’s Pinot Noir. And for our<br />

Churrasco cooked over a charcoal grill, we love the<br />

Gauchezco Reserva’s Malbec.<br />

MARIBEL RIVERO, EXECUTIVE CHEF<br />

YUYO | AUSTIN, TEXAS<br />

CUISINE: INDIAN<br />

PAIR IT WITH: aromatic white wines, rich red wines,<br />

and cocktails that mimic standout flavors.<br />

KARMA MODERN<br />

INDIAN’S GINGER<br />

BLOSSOM COCKTAIL.<br />

CUISINE: JAMAICAN<br />

PAIR IT WITH: sweet cocktails, white wines, and<br />

Red Stripe beer.<br />

“A lot of the Jamaican dishes we are serving are<br />

spicy so we’re pairing cocktails that are a little on<br />

the sweeter scide to balance out the heat. Crisp<br />

Loire Valley white wines are also great, and you<br />

can’t go wrong with an ice-cold Red Stripe beer.”<br />

AARON PAUL, BEVERAGE DIRECTOR FOR CALIFORNIA’S<br />

ALTA GROUP<br />

KAYA RESTAURANT | SAN FRANCISCO<br />

CUISINE: CUBAN<br />

PAIR IT WITH: a mojito.<br />

“Our beverage program prides itself [for having] the<br />

best mojitos in town, [like] our Chusma Fina, which<br />

is a play on our classic mojito.”<br />

“Indian cuisine is well-known for its intense aromatics<br />

and, at times, its heat. With that in mind, more<br />

aromatic white wines such as Gewürztraminer and<br />

more rich gamy/spicy reds such as Carignan and<br />

Syrah are solid go-to wine pairings. As for cocktail<br />

pairings, I first try to identify the most standout flavors<br />

of the dish, then go through the ingredients<br />

that either possess the same flavors or flavors that<br />

share affinity with those in the dish being enjoyed.”<br />

JAMES LANFRANCHI, LEAD BARTENDER + WINE STEWARD<br />

KARMA MODERN INDIAN | WASHINGTON, D.C.<br />

CUISINE: INDONESIAN<br />

PAIR IT WITH: crisp, light lagers; bright, fruity and<br />

acid-driven white wines; and anything built off the<br />

refreshing sour or highball model.<br />

“While a pairing with an IPA or robust red isn’t<br />

impossible, the cuisine’s use of complex flavors<br />

and, of course, spicy chillies, can make it pretty<br />

challenging, as tannins and high-alcohol contents<br />

have a tendency to accentuate the chili’s heat.”<br />

IVAN LICATA, GENERAL MANAGER<br />

ESTEFAN KITCHEN | MIAMI<br />

TAYLOR VAUGHT, GENERAL MANAGER<br />

SELAMAT PAGI | BROOKLYN, NEW YORK<br />

JOY ASICO<br />

30 APRIL <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COM


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Liquid i nteLLigence SPi R itS<br />

SiPS A PPe AL<br />

Spirit Works<br />

Distillery’s<br />

Sloe Gin<br />

Ashby Marshall, coowner<br />

of Spirit Works<br />

Distillery with husband<br />

Timo Marshall, started<br />

crafting sloe gin to pay<br />

homage to Timo’s family<br />

in England, who have<br />

been producing the<br />

spirit by mixing sloe<br />

berries, sugar, and gin<br />

for generations. Spirit<br />

Works’ take starts with<br />

onsite-produced gin,<br />

added with botanicals,<br />

citrus, and about two<br />

pounds of sloe berries<br />

per bottle. “Notes of<br />

cranberry and pomegranate<br />

swirl through<br />

the palate,” Ashby says<br />

of the finished product,<br />

which she enjoys as<br />

a replacement for vermouth<br />

in manhattans or<br />

negronis.<br />

SebaStopol<br />

California<br />

lemons as well as herbs like parsley, and spices<br />

such as saffron and cinnamon. All can play a<br />

role in creating Mediterranean cocktails, as<br />

do anise-flavored spirits like Greek ouzo, arak<br />

from the Levant, and raki in Turkey.<br />

Grown in Greece<br />

When Americans think Mediterranean cuisine,<br />

they often focus on Greek food, partly<br />

because so many ingredients in that cooking<br />

style are found across the region. The socalled<br />

“Mediterranean diet” is also based on<br />

a traditional Greek diet.<br />

At New York City’s Molyvos restaurant,<br />

general manager and wine director Kamal<br />

Kouiri tries to implement the same ingredients<br />

in Greek food—the raw materials, the<br />

herbs and spices—on the restaurant’s beverage<br />

menu. That extends to Greek spirits,<br />

including the anise-flavored spirit ouzo and<br />

a brandy called tsipoura made from pomace,<br />

the leftover fruit solids in juice or oil. Creating<br />

its own Greek-influenced infusions to<br />

American cocktails, Molyvos concocts offerings<br />

like the Wild Strawberry Mojito, in which<br />

mastiha—a mastic resin–flavored liqueur—<br />

and mint with strawberry are infused with<br />

rum, or the Cretan Mule, a version of a Moscow<br />

Mule using Roots Herb Spirit, ginger root<br />

soda, vodka, and fresh lime juice.<br />

The concept of employing similar ingredients<br />

in food and cocktails is important at<br />

Kipos Greek Taverna in Chapel Hill, North<br />

Carolina. “You want fresh ingredients—herbs,<br />

juices—in craft-made Mediterranean cuisine,”<br />

says Will Bingham, Kipos’ bar and beverage<br />

director. Cocktails made with Greek spirits<br />

and liqueurs dot the menu. They include The<br />

Minotaur, which mixes Skinos mastiha and<br />

lemon, and the Mykonos Mule, which uses<br />

fig-infused Haraki brandy. Bingham also uses<br />

ouzo, but those cocktails need other strong<br />

flavors to tone down the anise, he says.<br />

Italian influence<br />

Much of Italy touches the Mediterranean<br />

Sea, and Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhouse<br />

features Italian liqueurs, fruit, and herbs in<br />

many cocktails at its nine units in the U.S.<br />

“We have a lot of Italian ingredients around<br />

that we like to use,” says Jennifer Schubert,<br />

general manager of the Manhattan location.<br />

The Corretto, for instance, is Davio’s take on<br />

the traditional caffè corretto featuring not<br />

only grappa (an Italian pomace brandy) and<br />

espresso, but also limoncello. Italian negroni<br />

cocktails, employing gin, vermouth, and<br />

Campari liqueur, are also big sellers.<br />

All about the olive oil<br />

Although olives may be a well-known garnish<br />

for martinis, olive oil is not something<br />

many think about for a cocktail. But Bacardi’s<br />

Coronado included the favored oil years ago<br />

when he was the cocktail innovator at José<br />

Andrés’ ThinkFoodGroup. He infused vodka<br />

with olive oil to create an eponymous martini<br />

for the Mediterranean restaurant Zaytinya<br />

in Washington, D.C. The oil is heated to<br />

95 degrees Fahrenheit and added to vodka,<br />

mixed, and frozen for 24 hours. The oil is then<br />

scraped away, leaving the vodka with its flavor<br />

and aroma. He then added dry and blanc<br />

vermouth, verjus, and ice.<br />

Mediterranean Exploration Company in<br />

Portland, Oregon, which looks to the Eastern<br />

Mediterranean region Levant for inspiration,<br />

uses an olive oil-washed gin in its Azores<br />

High cocktail, which also has vermouth, tonic,<br />

and lime. “You can take any cocktail and<br />

give it a Mediterranean feel by incorporating<br />

the right ingredients,” says Jamal Hassan,<br />

head bartender. The Olive Branch cocktail,<br />

for instance, is basically a martini but with<br />

za’atar bitters. His take on a daiquiri includes<br />

sumac. Hassan also helped create Mediterranean<br />

Exploration’s own arak, a Levantine<br />

anise spirit, that is in the Arak Colada cocktail<br />

with rum, coconut, pineapple, lime, nutmeg,<br />

and crushed ice. “Arak and anise classically<br />

work with anything with citrus,” he says.<br />

Notes of North Africa<br />

Miami’s Byblos restaurant features a largely<br />

Levantine- and North African-influenced<br />

menu, and the cocktails make good use of<br />

fresh juices, says Jorge Islas, bar manager and<br />

master mixologist. “We try to be unique and<br />

implement spices and freshness in any cocktail,”<br />

he says. For the signature Marrakesh<br />

Garden cocktail, cold-pressed cucumber and<br />

celery juice, mint, and lime are combined to<br />

go with gin or rum, then finished with nigella<br />

seeds. Byblos’ take on an Old Fashioned<br />

utilizes Turkish coffee in a syrup mixed with<br />

bourbon, rum, and bitters. Islas adds cardamom<br />

to the syrup, which makes the cocktail<br />

“like no one else’s,” he says.<br />

32 <strong>April</strong> <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.cOm


l iquid i ntelligenC e W ine<br />

people interacting with customers, their<br />

influence has been huge.”<br />

One such sommelier is Alex Trendler<br />

of MIFUNE New York in New York City.<br />

At the Japanese fine-dining restaurant,<br />

he pours around 20 varieties of sake,<br />

selling it in equal numbers with wine<br />

and educating eager customers along<br />

the way. “People want to experience sake,<br />

and they want to learn way more than<br />

just the name of it,” he says. “I love that.”<br />

Haikara Sake<br />

For Sake’s Sake<br />

By Carly Boers<br />

The popularity of<br />

this traditional<br />

Japanese alcohol<br />

is increasing;<br />

now is the time<br />

to explore sake.<br />

A cherry blossom<br />

cocktAil mAde<br />

with hAikArA sAke.<br />

Sake iS officially booming in the U.S.,<br />

says John Gauntner, president of the Sake Education<br />

Council (sec)—an organization created to<br />

promote sake education outside Japan. He has<br />

studied the drink now for 30 years.<br />

Gauntner says Americans’ sake consumption<br />

has been on a steady incline since around 2000,<br />

climbing around 10 percent annually to where it<br />

sits today—more than 1.5 million gallons were<br />

consumed in 2017. Sure, increased interest in Japanese<br />

cuisine, namely sushi, is a driving force, but<br />

Gauntner says a handful of factors play into the<br />

current state of boom.<br />

Lately, perhaps the biggest driver is the way<br />

in which wine professionals have embraced sake.<br />

“First sake started popping up in New York City<br />

wine shops, and then in L.A. Then sommeliers<br />

began offering it,” he says. “Since these are the<br />

Sake 101<br />

While enthusiasts like Gauntner and<br />

Trendler do their part to educate drinkers,<br />

the Japanese beverage is still largely<br />

misunderstood in the U.S. For starters,<br />

though it shares characteristics with<br />

both, it’s neither beer nor wine. The<br />

brewing process is closer to the former,<br />

but, unlike beer, sake is brewed solely<br />

from rice and without the presence of<br />

enzymes.<br />

Gauntner says wine comparisons<br />

stem from the similar alcohol content—<br />

sake has about 15 to 16 percent; wine,<br />

roughly 10 to 14 percent—as well as the<br />

manner in which flavors are assessed,<br />

and the fact that both are typically<br />

enjoyed with food. Also like wine, sake is<br />

categorized. Instead of grouping by varietals<br />

of grapes, however, sake is broken<br />

down in terms of how much each grain<br />

of sake brewing rice (of which there are<br />

roughly 70 types) is milled.<br />

Sake also varies greatly by region,<br />

chiefly due to climate. The cooler weather<br />

of Northern Japan means its sake is<br />

fermented and stored at lower temperatures,<br />

and the end product is cleaner<br />

than that of its Western counterparts,<br />

according to Gauntner. Regional food<br />

also plays a role. For instance, brewers in<br />

oceanside locations often produce light,<br />

crisp sakes to match the area’s cuisine.<br />

Emerging from sushi’s shadow<br />

Sake is no longer just a means for washing<br />

down sushi. In restaurants, it has<br />

blossomed into a menu star in its own<br />

right: Bartenders now craft cocktails<br />

that spotlight the versatile beverage, and<br />

sommeliers like Trendler look beyond<br />

wine to offer comprehensive sake lists<br />

FOODNEWSFEED.cOm april <strong>2018</strong> 33


LIQUID INTELLIGENCE WINE<br />

SIPS APPEAL<br />

SakéOne’s<br />

g fifty sake<br />

A subtle, delicate sake<br />

with plenty of body,<br />

g fifty is the product<br />

of Coastal Mountain<br />

Range Oregon water<br />

and Sacramento Valley<br />

rice. Served chilled, it is<br />

medium-dry on the palate<br />

and brings about<br />

notes of nectarine,<br />

green apple, and mint.<br />

Thinking beyond the<br />

traditional Japanese<br />

dish pairing, SakéOne’s<br />

Jessie Sheeran recommends<br />

enjoying<br />

g fifty with grilled<br />

meats, pasta, and hard,<br />

aged cheeses. “Mac<br />

‘n’ cheese and cheeseburgers<br />

are absolutely<br />

perfect,” she says.<br />

FOREST GROVE<br />

OREGON<br />

and sake pairings. At MIFUNE, cocktail producer<br />

Shingo Gokan offers the Seven Samurai,<br />

composed of rye whiskey, aged sake, East<br />

India sake, bitters, and smoked cinnamon.<br />

Trendler, a wine industry veteran who had<br />

never worked with sake before MIFUNE, says<br />

the drink has broadened his horizons exponentially.<br />

“We have a lot of cool sakes that<br />

represent a wide range of flavors,” he says. He<br />

plays off the restaurant’s ever-evolving seasonal<br />

cuisine to create pairings, seeking out<br />

both contrasting and complementing tastes.<br />

In the case of the latter, he pours earthy Manzairaku<br />

alongside a scallop with mushroom<br />

consommé.<br />

“Manzairaku tastes just like shiitake mushrooms,<br />

so that pairing was a no-brainer for<br />

me,” he says. Sake also gives him the opportunity<br />

to play up the menu’s bold umami flavors<br />

with varietals he says mimic the taste<br />

of banana bread and bubble gum. “It sounds<br />

crazy until you try it,” he says.<br />

Increased accessibility<br />

“Five years ago, Japanese fine dining was<br />

the upper echelon of luxury,” Trendler says.<br />

“Lately it’s become more accessible—and so<br />

has sake,” he adds.<br />

That trend toward approachability is also<br />

thanks in part to makers like Umenoyado<br />

Brewery. The fifth-generation brewer based<br />

out of Nara, Japan recently worked with<br />

New York-based Spirits Consulting Group<br />

to develop Haikara, a sake created specifically<br />

for the U.S. market. Spirits Consulting<br />

Group CEO Susan Mooney says the citrusy<br />

flavor combines notes of yuzu and white<br />

peach and is “familiar to the American palate.”<br />

Even the name Haikara, which translates<br />

to “high collar,” hearkens back to the<br />

clothing style of the first Westerners living<br />

in Japan and “speaks to the east-meetswest<br />

feel we wanted to create,” Mooney says.<br />

“We were mindful to make a product that’s<br />

authentic and rooted in tradition, but also<br />

really accessible,” she says.<br />

Trendler shares Mooney’s sentiment,<br />

offering this advice to sake novices: “Don’t<br />

worry about the labels or menu descriptions,<br />

and don’t be intimidated by new language or<br />

classification systems. Sake should just be<br />

inviting and fun.”<br />

GENSHU SAKE IS UNDILUTED, MEANING THERE IS NO SECONDARY WATER ADDED TO MODIFY<br />

THE ALCOHOL LEVEL. THIS VARIETY, THEN, OFFERS A HEARTIER FLAVOR AND BODY.<br />

THINKSTOCK<br />

34 APRIL <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COM


Liquid i nteLLigence Beer<br />

ThinksTock<br />

How to Host an Imported<br />

Beer Dinner<br />

By Liz Barrett Foster<br />

Create a menu<br />

that marries<br />

globally<br />

inspired fare<br />

and authentic,<br />

imported beer<br />

for a theme<br />

night guests will<br />

be talking about<br />

for weeks.<br />

There’s no denying that Americans love<br />

beer, and what they are really loving right now<br />

are craft and import beers. In 2016’s $107.6 billion<br />

beer market, craft beer sales grew 6.2 percent<br />

and import beer sales grew 6.8 percent, according<br />

to a report from the Brewers Association. With<br />

imported beer’s growth now outpacing craft beer’s,<br />

it only makes sense to take advantage of the trend.<br />

Hosting a themed dinner night that pairs ethnic<br />

food with its respective beer can attract guests<br />

hungry for new experiences, new foods, and new<br />

beers.<br />

Choose a theme<br />

If you run a restaurant that’s a natural fit for<br />

imported beers—such as Mexican, Japanese, German,<br />

etc.—half the work is already done. Choose a<br />

theme that makes sense with the restaurant’s<br />

brand, but also allows for a menu<br />

that features several country-specific<br />

courses that pair with that country’s<br />

imported beer.<br />

“For the most part, depending on the<br />

type of food the restaurant specializes<br />

in, beers from Belgium, Germany and<br />

the U.K. are the easiest beers to pair and<br />

sell,” says Morgan Herzog, owner of The<br />

Beer Junction, a Seattle-based beer bar<br />

and bottle shop where Belgian and German<br />

imports are most popular. “A wide<br />

variety of imports from all these countries<br />

are readily available in most parts<br />

of the United States, and they pair well<br />

with food from their respective coun-<br />

FOODNEWSFEED.COm <strong>April</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 35


Liquid i nteLLigence Beer<br />

SipS AppeAL<br />

Kona Brewing<br />

Company’s<br />

Kanaha<br />

Blonde Ale<br />

Only recently launched<br />

to be available nationally,<br />

say aloha to this<br />

bright beer made with<br />

mango fruit and exhibiting<br />

lightly toasted malt<br />

character. Transport<br />

guests to the breezy<br />

beaches of Maui by<br />

pairing it—and maybe<br />

a few other Hawaiianbrewed<br />

beers over a<br />

few courses—with a<br />

luau-themed spread of<br />

grilled fish, salads, poke,<br />

roast pig, and tropical<br />

fruits.<br />

4.2% ABV<br />

Honolulu, HAwAii<br />

Mura<br />

tries,” he says.<br />

Ember & Vine Woodfire Oven and Social<br />

Bar, located inside the DoubleTree by Hilton<br />

in Mars, Pennsylvania, planned a European<br />

beer dinner in February, pairing five<br />

courses of imported beer at a ticket price of<br />

$60 per person with menu items such as spätzle<br />

paired with the Bavarian Ayinger Brauweisse,<br />

gravlax paired with the Belgian Orval<br />

Trappist ale, and prime rib and Yorkshire pudding<br />

paired with Sam Smith’s Oatmeal Stout<br />

brewed in North Yorkshire, United Kingdom.<br />

“We’ve done several craft brewery dinners<br />

but wanted to try a format that featured multiple<br />

labels instead of from the same brewery,”<br />

says Harry W. Siebert, director of restaurant<br />

operations for Ember & Vine. “I thought it<br />

would be interesting to add a geographical<br />

and multi-cultural component; the response<br />

has been great.”<br />

At Mura, a sushi restaurant and bar in<br />

Raleigh, North Carolina, bar manager Greg<br />

Keely says the restaurant’s Japanese beer<br />

dinner last October sold out the 70 tickets<br />

on offer. “We hosted a seven-course meal<br />

and offered five beers,” Keely says of the<br />

Hitachino Nest Beer Dinner. Tickets were<br />

Fitting to its concept, sushi restaurant mura hosted a<br />

japanese beer dinner in october.<br />

$75 and included pairings such as a dish of<br />

panko-fried smoked oysters, wasabi hollandaise,<br />

pickled cucumber-daikon salad, and<br />

red onion dust paired with Hitachino Nest<br />

Red Rice ale from Kiuchi Brewery in Japan.<br />

Planning makes perfect<br />

With a theme set, it is time to talk with the<br />

chef and beer distributor. “I’d suggest working<br />

with a local distributor that you already<br />

have a professional relationship with to assist<br />

with the marketing and planning phase,”<br />

Siebert says.<br />

Keely says the same, adding, “It is absolutely<br />

critical to find a responsive, excited,<br />

and engaging partner.” Keely’s distributor,<br />

who was just as enthusiastic about the event<br />

as he was, helped in providing unique glassware<br />

for the dinner and planning the dinner’s<br />

menu by offering pairing advice. “We worked<br />

with our executive kitchen team to formulate<br />

a meal that would be both satisfying and<br />

unique,” Keely says. “From there, we sat with<br />

our brewery partners to ensure the beer pairings<br />

were not only smart, but well-executed.”<br />

Siebert advises operators to keep course<br />

numbers and guest counts in check. “Keep<br />

the guest count under 50 so that it still has<br />

an intimate appeal and have enough staff to<br />

deliver each course in a timely fashion.” Beer<br />

dinners can lead to a lot of food and drink<br />

consumption, so Siebert says it’s important<br />

to keep the timing at a decent pace. “I<br />

feel that four to five courses is perfect,” he<br />

says. “That will give value, but not overload<br />

your guests. Portion size needs to be that<br />

of a small plate, so that,<br />

by the third course, people<br />

are still awake. The<br />

pour size should be about<br />

5 ounces. This will also<br />

keep the crowd engaged<br />

and not over-served by<br />

the last course.”<br />

Scoring a ‘sold out’<br />

The final step is selling<br />

tickets to the beer dinner.<br />

For an event ultimately<br />

about social engagement,<br />

this is where social media<br />

comes in handy. “If someone<br />

‘likes’ the ad, then<br />

someone on property<br />

should reach out and try to get the reservation<br />

booked,” Siebert says. “It’s important to<br />

fill the seats because most people attending<br />

these events are in it for the social interaction.<br />

If you’re lacking reservations, fill the<br />

seats with clients or friends and family. These<br />

[dinners] are not usually huge profit makers,<br />

but more of an opportunity to gain exposure<br />

for your restaurant.”<br />

36 april <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COm


SPONSORED CONTENT<br />

COURTESY OF FABIO VIVIANI<br />

Meet Me at NRA Show<br />

Fabio Viviani, celebrity chef and restaurateur<br />

BY PEGGY CAROUTHERS<br />

For Fabio Viviani, a celebrity chef,<br />

former Top Chef contestant, cook<br />

book author, and restaurateur, the<br />

annual NRA Show in Chicago is all about<br />

networking. “This is a business based on<br />

people, and in order to connect with<br />

people you have to be where they are,”<br />

Viviani says. “The NRA show is a great<br />

source of connection. You can meet<br />

vendors, employees, business partners,<br />

and competitors.”<br />

As an established chef, Viviani—<br />

who has attended NRA Show for over<br />

a decade—says that he has built many<br />

relationships there and that the Show<br />

provides him with opportunities to<br />

catch up with his peers and gain a competitive<br />

advantage by seeing what they<br />

are doing. When he was just getting<br />

started in the business, however, the<br />

Show provided him with a valuable<br />

platform on which to build his business.<br />

“When I had one restaurant, I used the<br />

Show to make connections to get better<br />

pricing and discounts,” he says.<br />

Vendors are a big attraction at the<br />

Show for both established chefs and<br />

those just starting their careers. Viviani<br />

says he likes to browse booths to<br />

find new products. “NRA Show is like<br />

Candy Land for a kid,” he says. “I can walk<br />

around for hours. Last year I found a better<br />

system to manage my inventory that<br />

I love, and I wouldn’t be aware of it if I<br />

wasn’t at NRA Show.”<br />

For first-time attendees, though, Viviani<br />

suggests planning specific booths to<br />

visit based on whatever challenges they<br />

have in their businesses. “Go through<br />

the directory and see what interests you,”<br />

he says. “Do you need help with inventory<br />

or beverage and alcohol? Do you<br />

need new menus? What are your problems<br />

in the restaurant today? If you can<br />

figure out what you need, there will be<br />

vendors who can help you with that at<br />

NRA Show. Just go hunt them down.”<br />

Viviani is a self-proclaimed people<br />

person and he says that giving cooking<br />

demonstrations is one of his favorite<br />

parts of the Show. “Demonstrations let<br />

folks break away from business for a second<br />

and sit down to watch somebody<br />

on stage making food,” he says. “The<br />

interactions can get very personal, too.”<br />

Another big reason Viviani says restaurant<br />

professionals should attend NRA<br />

Show is to learn new techniques and<br />

enhance existing skills. “It doesn’t matter<br />

how good you are or how big you<br />

are, there is always someone out there<br />

doing something better than you,” Viviani<br />

says. “It’s a very good way to learn,<br />

stay current, and be humble. Though<br />

Viviani is well-established in the industry,<br />

he says NRA Show provides numerous<br />

opportunities for both experienced and<br />

new chefs. “NRA show is a great opportunity<br />

for people who are starting their<br />

journeys in the culinary business to get<br />

lots of insight and become knowledgeable,”<br />

he says. “It’s a great organization,<br />

and I’m very happy to be part of it.”<br />

FOODNEWSFEED.COM APRIL <strong>2018</strong> 37


Ready.<br />

Set.<br />

Compete.<br />

BY LAURA ZOLMAN KIRK<br />

Everyone wants to win a competition,<br />

and the opportunity to unite<br />

chefs and spectators over craft<br />

and cooking can build a global<br />

community. Here’s how competitions<br />

benefit both chef and industry alike.<br />

CHEF ADRIAN CRUZ<br />

FROM MCALLEN, TEXAS,<br />

PLATES HIS ENTRY DISH<br />

FOR THE OPENING<br />

ROUND OF THE STEAK<br />

CATEGORY AT THE WORLD<br />

FOOD CHAMPIONSHIPS.<br />

WORLD FOOD CHAMPIONSHIPS<br />

38 APRIL <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COM


MARLA MARTINEZ<br />

PARTICIPATES<br />

IN THE USBG’S<br />

LUCID COCKTAIL<br />

CLASSIQUE IN<br />

AUSTIN, TEXAS.<br />

‘‘<br />

Wget<br />

JESSICA FRADONO PHOTOGRAPHY<br />

e’ve been here before,” says Aaron Gregory Smith, executive director of the<br />

United States Bartenders’ Guild (USBG), which puts on about 10 competitions<br />

annually. Instead of calling the rise in competitions in the food and beverage<br />

industries a “boom,” Smith calls it “more of a roller coaster.”<br />

The number of competitions hosted around the country goes up, then people<br />

burned out on them. Then they come back into fashion. “From my personal<br />

FOODNEWSFEED.COM APRIL <strong>2018</strong> 39


COMPETITIONS<br />

‘‘<br />

Chef Mathew Peters, the<br />

first u.s. Chef to win BoCuse<br />

d’or, PrePares a Meat Platter<br />

at the 2017 CoMPetition.<br />

Competing in this competition has been lifechanging<br />

and eye-opening in so many ways,”<br />

Chef Philip Tessier<br />

Chef PhiliP tessier, teaM usa CoaCh and BoCuse d’or 2015 silver winner,<br />

with Chef Mathew Peters, BoCuse d’or 2017 winner.<br />

experience being in hospitality for 20<br />

years, I think this is probably my third<br />

or fourth upswing in the number of competitions,”<br />

Smith says. And, while he<br />

doesn’t think competitions are necessary<br />

for the success of the industry—“I think<br />

that the hospitality industry is competitive<br />

enough on its own,” Smith says—<br />

he does consider competitions helpful<br />

in supporting chefs and bartenders on<br />

an individual basis, acting as a tool for<br />

professional development.<br />

The industry, it seems, shares Smith’s<br />

sentiment. Beyond the drive to win, participants<br />

are flocking to food and beverage<br />

competitions as a way to build their<br />

networks, skill sets, and profiles. Many<br />

view their experience inside the ring as<br />

so integral to their development as professionals<br />

that they are now shepherding<br />

younger chefs and mixologists into<br />

arena. Organizers and sponsors, too, are<br />

benefiting from the action in the opportunity<br />

it provides to buddy up with these<br />

driven professionals.<br />

The rise of competitions is certainly<br />

shining a spotlight on the hospitality<br />

industry, and, in doing so, hopefully propelling<br />

the industry forward.<br />

Competitors’ perks<br />

Since the vast majority of hospitality<br />

employers aren’t able to focus on professional<br />

development in the day-to-day,<br />

USBG’s competitions hope to fill the participants’<br />

need by offering competitors<br />

thorough feedback from the judges. Each<br />

bartender receives a detailed breakdown<br />

of where they fell at different stages of<br />

the competition, as well as written feedback<br />

on their strengths and where to<br />

consider improvement.<br />

“I hear from competitors year after<br />

year, since we started that process, that<br />

that is one of the most valuable experiences<br />

that they gain from participating<br />

in competitions. The hospitality industry<br />

managers don’t always have time to give<br />

thoughtful, comprehensive evaluations<br />

to their employees,” Smith says. “We see<br />

people returning to programs year after<br />

year to demonstrate their improvement<br />

and learn more about what they can do<br />

to get better.”<br />

Bocuse d’or / david escalante (top)<br />

40 april <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.cOm


COMPETITIONS<br />

Chef Lance Nitahara, a lecturing<br />

instructor at the Culinary Institute<br />

of America, shares Smith’s sentiment.<br />

As a frequent competitor in American<br />

Culinary Federation (ACF) competitions<br />

over the last decade—as well as<br />

a mentor for students preparing for<br />

competitions through organizations<br />

like ProStart and SkillsUSA—Nitahara<br />

sees competitions as vital to a young<br />

chef ’s education.<br />

“I believe that everyone should compete<br />

at least once,” he says. “It wasn’t an<br />

experience that I necessarily wanted to<br />

have until I actually had it, but it really<br />

opened things up for me.”<br />

His experience as a competitor has<br />

kept him organized and his technical<br />

skills sharp, Nitahara says. “When<br />

I work with students who compete,<br />

oftentimes there is only one gold and<br />

only one silver. [When] they aren’t successful,<br />

I see them really beat themselves<br />

up about it. I tell them that the<br />

competitions that I’ve learned the<br />

most from are the ones that I didn’t<br />

win.” Reflection in those instances, he<br />

argues, helps chefs grow and learn.<br />

Chef Philip Tessier, who won the silver<br />

medal at the international Bocuse<br />

d’Or competition in 2015 and coached<br />

Team USA to gold in 2017, appreciates<br />

his competition experience for the<br />

chance it was to build a diverse network<br />

of professionals in his field, as<br />

well as push him to enhance his skills.<br />

“When you’re in a professional restaurant,<br />

you’re working at the stove,<br />

you’re constantly refining your skills<br />

and you’re working, ideally, amongst a<br />

great team, but it’s one team, one chef,<br />

that you’re working under. With the<br />

Bocuse d’Or, I saw the opportunity to<br />

work with multiple chefs across the<br />

country. Why would I not want to be<br />

in the center of this opportunity?” he<br />

says.<br />

To inspire other young chefs to<br />

embark on such a unique opportunity<br />

as representing the USA on a<br />

national stage at Bocuse d’Or, Tessier<br />

has written a book, Chasing Bocuse:<br />

America’s Journey to the Culinary World<br />

Stage, about his experiences with the<br />

competition as a chef and coach. “Competing<br />

in this competition has been<br />

life-changing and eye-opening in so<br />

many ways,” Tessier says. “The more<br />

that young chefs begin to understand<br />

the opportunity that competitions<br />

have to enrich and focus their training<br />

and create opportunity and exposure<br />

to other chefs in different realms<br />

across the world, [the better it is for<br />

the industry.]”<br />

Hard-won thrills<br />

On top of personal growth opportunities,<br />

participants also enjoy the notoriety<br />

that competitions can bring. “From<br />

my perspective now, having done the<br />

competitions and having my own<br />

businesses, it certainly has given me<br />

a boost of credibility throughout the<br />

industry, but it has also given me a<br />

boost economically because people<br />

want you to come and speak about<br />

these things,” says Gavin Kaysen, chef<br />

and owner of Minneapolis restaurants<br />

Spoon and Stable and Bellecour, who<br />

has competed in national and international<br />

contests, including Bocuse d’Or,<br />

where he has served as coach for Team<br />

USA and now serves as VP of the board<br />

of directors for ment’or, formerly The<br />

Bocuse d’Or USA Foundation.<br />

“Absolutely, being involved in barbecue<br />

contests has helped our restaurants,”<br />

says Melissa Cookston of<br />

Memphis Barbecue Co. in Mississippi,<br />

Georgia, and North Carolina and<br />

STEAK in Mississippi. She has competed<br />

in hundreds of barbecue competitions<br />

for more than 20 years. “The<br />

acclaim you can generate by winning<br />

a ‘major’ is something you physically<br />

can’t buy. It’s not something you can<br />

plan on, but if you can make it happen<br />

it’s an awesome thing,” Cookston<br />

says. She would know; she’s been the<br />

World Championship Barbecue Cooking<br />

Contest’s grand champion two<br />

times and the whole-hog champion<br />

five times. What drives her to compete?<br />

Beyond the thrill of the fight,<br />

Cookston notes that it is the memories<br />

made while cooking a hog for 24<br />

hours that keep her coming back for<br />

Path to the Podium<br />

Winners offer advice to newbie<br />

competitors.<br />

OVER-PREPARE<br />

“Because the minute you step<br />

into a new environment, anything<br />

can happen.”<br />

— REBECKA EVANS, 2017 BACON<br />

WORLD CHAMPION AT WFC<br />

BE TRUE TO YOURSELF<br />

“I always ask, ‘Would you cook<br />

this dish for me if I came into your<br />

restaurant?’ Typically, the answer<br />

is ‘no.’ Then why are you going to<br />

do it for a competition?”<br />

— KAYSEN<br />

FOCUS ON THE FLAVOR<br />

“People win these competitions<br />

because their food tastes great.<br />

Obviously, the presentation and<br />

the technique have to be spot<br />

on, but you’ll see plates come<br />

through and you’ll get excited<br />

about it, then realize that it lacks<br />

the substance beneath. Taste<br />

your food over and over again.”<br />

— TESSIER<br />

FEEDBACK IS KEY<br />

“There are some chefs that go<br />

into competition and they are<br />

very prideful about their food,<br />

which sometimes is a good thing,<br />

but most of the time it is not<br />

[because] they won’t ask for a<br />

critique or opinions from others<br />

from the outside. Be open to<br />

positive criticism; that is the best<br />

way to evolve your food.”<br />

— NITAHARA<br />

LEARN FROM MISTAKES<br />

“You know how I learned to<br />

become a good whole hog cook?<br />

By getting my butt kicked, then<br />

going over what was good and<br />

bad about that particular hog,<br />

and then trying to fix the bad<br />

things.” — COOKSTON<br />

FOODNEWSFEED.COM APRIL <strong>2018</strong> 41


COMPETITIONS<br />

Lauren<br />

Sponberg<br />

pourS the<br />

SponSor’S<br />

beverage,<br />

Lucid<br />

abSinthe.<br />

Shaun MegLen StrainS<br />

hiS roxy rouge cocktaiL.<br />

‘‘<br />

The goal of the Cocktail Classique<br />

is to educate bartenders about<br />

the use of authentic absinthes in<br />

contemporary mixology.”<br />

Keri Meuret, Hood RiveR distilleRs<br />

more. “We sit around, we talk. It’s about<br />

the experience, and so much more than<br />

the food and the win,” she says.<br />

Getting to the winner’s circle, however,<br />

does not come without sacrifice.<br />

“Nothing good is ever easy. You have to<br />

be humble, willing to learn from your<br />

mistakes, and always keep a focus on<br />

improving,” Cookston says.<br />

Nitahara—whose mentor told him,<br />

“Practice doesn’t make perfect. Perfect<br />

practice makes perfect,”—dedicates<br />

somewhere between 90 and 140 hours<br />

of practice before an ACF competition,<br />

mimicking every step of the competition<br />

from kitchen organization to cleanup.<br />

“I don’t really want to go into it unless I<br />

have a chance at winning the gold,” he<br />

says of his prep motivation.<br />

Bocuse d’Or participants dedicate an<br />

entire year to preparing for the event,<br />

with coaches dedicating almost two.<br />

“There’s a lot of sacrifice and time that<br />

it takes to do it right,” says Tessier, who<br />

has served in both roles.<br />

Motivations aside, participants overwhelmingly<br />

say competitions are good<br />

for the industry. “I think competition is<br />

always good, whether you’re in a cooking<br />

arena or [your competition] is across<br />

the street,” Kaysen says.<br />

Sponsors’ gain<br />

Competitions, though, are not just for<br />

the betterment of the competitors. To<br />

fund such massive events, organizers<br />

need sponsors. And sponsors, in return,<br />

get a sweet deal: access to hospitality<br />

professionals in an authentic way during<br />

meaningful moments in their careers.<br />

The stakes are high, and if a certain can<br />

of tomatoes helps a chef succeed in a<br />

national food competition, then that<br />

chef might be more likely to lean on that<br />

product in the future.<br />

“Competitions allow us to create an<br />

experience with a chef that’s unique,”<br />

says Becca Yeagy, who is the territory<br />

sales manager for Red Gold and<br />

works with the tomato product company’s<br />

corporate sponsorships. <strong>2018</strong><br />

will be the company’s third year as a<br />

sponsor at the World Food Championships<br />

(wfc) in Alabama. Previously,<br />

Red Gold has sponsored WFC categories,<br />

like the World Sandwich Championship,<br />

which requires competitors<br />

use one of the brand’s products in the<br />

judged dish. Red Gold also has placement<br />

in each competitor’s pantry, as<br />

well as a booth at the Tasting Village<br />

to connect with customers coming to<br />

watch the showdowns.<br />

“[Chefs are at the WFC] and they’re<br />

experiencing our products while<br />

attempting to win $10,000–$100,000.<br />

If they perform well and rely on our<br />

product to do so, they’re more likely to<br />

take that product home with them to<br />

Jessica Fradono PhotograPhy<br />

42 aPril <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.cOm


COMPETITIONS<br />

LUCID COCKTAIL<br />

CLASSIQUE<br />

COMPETITOR,<br />

CHRIS MORRIS,<br />

PUTS THE FINAL<br />

TOUCHES ON HIS<br />

SOGNI D’ORO<br />

COCKTAIL, WHICH<br />

EARNED HIM THE<br />

CHAMPIONSHIP<br />

IN AUSTIN IN 2017.<br />

FOODNEWSFEED.COM APRIL <strong>2018</strong> 43


COMPETITIONS<br />

A pAnel of<br />

judges score<br />

the opening<br />

round<br />

dishes for<br />

the cowboy<br />

chArcoAl’s<br />

fire & ice<br />

women’s<br />

bArbeque<br />

series<br />

chAmpionship<br />

At wfc.<br />

A smokin’<br />

wfc entry.<br />

‘‘<br />

At the WFC, which is open to the public,<br />

Red Gold can reach customers from<br />

both the retail and foodservice spheres.”<br />

Becca Yeagy, Red Gold<br />

the world bAcon<br />

cAtegory’s quiche<br />

structure build At wfc.<br />

wfc’s cherferees<br />

oversee All of the<br />

Action in kitchen<br />

ArenA to ensure<br />

A fAir food fight.<br />

World Food Championships<br />

home cook kim bAnick from sAlem, oregon,<br />

took home the world seAfood chAmpionship<br />

with her AlAbAmA crAwfish thAi bowl with<br />

coconut gulf shrimp.<br />

44 <strong>April</strong> <strong>2018</strong> FoodnEWsFEEd.Com


their businesses,” Yeagy says. The format<br />

works so well, in fact, that Yeagy<br />

and her team have entered a multi-year<br />

agreement with the WFC and are looking<br />

to get involved with more competitions<br />

on the regional level.<br />

Similarly, Lucid Absinthe Supérieure<br />

sponsors the Lucid Cocktail Classique<br />

competition with the USBG to connect<br />

with leaders in the bartending world.<br />

“The goal of the Cocktail Classique is<br />

to educate bartenders about the use of<br />

authentic absinthes in contemporary<br />

mixology,” says Keri Meuret, marketing<br />

brand manager at Hood River Distillers.<br />

Once a core ingredient, absinthe lost<br />

traction in the U.S. after being banned<br />

for 95 years; the ban was only recently<br />

repealed in 2007.<br />

“The Cocktail Classique is a way to<br />

excite working bartenders about authentic<br />

absinthes and to encourage them to<br />

experiment and find innovative ways<br />

to accent the botanicals at the heart of<br />

this wildly versatile spirit,” Meuret says.<br />

“Over the years, the competition has<br />

enabled us to build a cadre of bartenders<br />

in key markets with whom we have<br />

established a personal relationship.” In<br />

those relationships, Lucid acts to break<br />

down the taboo surrounding its product<br />

and, hopefully, gain loyal customers<br />

along the way.<br />

and beverage industries forward.<br />

“The mission of [USBG] is to unite the<br />

hospitality community and to advance<br />

professional bartending,” Smith says.<br />

Competitions, which have been a part<br />

of the USBG since inception, help the<br />

organization achieve this goal by bringing<br />

bartenders from all over the country<br />

with specific interests together to share<br />

in this educational experience. “Communities<br />

grow and form around that,”<br />

he says. And the nature of the competition<br />

helps to achieve the “advancement<br />

of professional bartending” aspect of<br />

USBG’s mission, in the opportunity to<br />

test one’s skills against other leaders in<br />

the field and then gather feedback to<br />

learn and grow as a professional.<br />

“Competitions are how we get a lot<br />

of our members; it’s one of our primary<br />

outreach programs that we organize<br />

nationally,” Smith says. “A lot of successful<br />

people in the industry have filled<br />

their networks through those opportunities.”<br />

Similarly, the mission of the ment’or<br />

foundation supporting Bocuse d’Or<br />

Team USA is to inspire and promote<br />

young American chefs utilizing programs<br />

that identify and showcase their<br />

culinary talent. Young Yun, executive<br />

director of ment’or, says competitions<br />

within the organization like the Young<br />

Looking to organize your own competition?<br />

CheCk out 7 things to know Before starting a food or Beverage<br />

Competition on Foodnewsfeed.com/readySetcompete.<br />

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Competitions offer participants personal<br />

feedback to enhance their skills, as well<br />

as opportunity to expand their networks<br />

and bask in the fame of glory—if they<br />

are so lucky. Sponsors get to buddy up<br />

with their target audiences, teaching<br />

them about their products and forming<br />

meaningful memories with them. And<br />

organizers, too—like the USBG, ACF,<br />

ment’or, and WFC—fulfill their missions<br />

to support their networks of professionals<br />

in a way that propels the food<br />

Chef and Commis programs and the<br />

international competition—Bocuse<br />

d’Or—help the organization achieve its<br />

mission by highlighting the art of cooking<br />

and providing young chefs with the<br />

tools to succeed in today’s professional<br />

landscape. “Naturally, everyone wants<br />

to win in a competition, but what I have<br />

observed is how competitions also bring<br />

everyone together to celebrate and<br />

honor tradition [and] the craft of cooking.<br />

[They] have become a global community<br />

and support system,” Yun says.<br />

Explore Tropics at<br />

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FOODNEWSFEED.cOm <strong>April</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 45


MIDDLE EASTERN CUISINE<br />

TRAVERSING<br />

Breadbasket<br />

CIVILIZATION’S<br />

Middle Eastern cuisine shows its range BY MAGGIE HENNESSY<br />

46 APRIL <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COM


MIDDLE EASTERN CUISINE<br />

THINKSTOCK<br />

RIPE OLIVES, FRESH<br />

CHEESES, AND<br />

CREAMY HUMMUS ARE<br />

ONLY THE BEGINNING<br />

OF A CUISINE THAT<br />

SPANS A CULTURALLY<br />

RICH REGION.<br />

FOODNEWSFEED.COM APRIL <strong>2018</strong> 47


Middle eastern Cuisine<br />

Our love affair with the Holy Land<br />

You can’t talk about the rise of Middle<br />

Eastern cuisine in the U.S. without<br />

Israel—a country scarcely 70 years old<br />

and about the size of New Jersey whose<br />

complex, magnetic food has taken Americans<br />

by storm.<br />

A young nation of immigrants, Israel<br />

encompasses the culinary traditions of<br />

more than 100 cultures that have been<br />

in the country and neighboring Palestine<br />

or moved back from the diaspora<br />

to modern-day Israel. This includes a<br />

considerable Arab minority, along with<br />

populations from Iran, Russia, Hungary,<br />

Morocco, Jordan, Iraq, and other countries.<br />

There are Jewish culinary considerations,<br />

too, of keeping kosher—though<br />

Israeli cooking isn’t always synonymous<br />

with kosher cooking, particularly in secular<br />

places like Tel Aviv.<br />

Buzzy Israeli concepts are popping<br />

up all over the U.S. At Los Angeles’ Mh<br />

Zh, patrons brave long lines for the sigbright,<br />

fresh, and pickled vegetables alongside grilled meats are a<br />

hallmark of meals throughout egypt, israel, syria, and iran ,to name a few.<br />

A<br />

group of countries spanning<br />

from North Africa to<br />

Asia, the Middle East is at<br />

the crossroads of rich cultures,<br />

fallen empires, and centuries of<br />

migration. It encompasses wide-ranging<br />

geographies, from vast, empty deserts to<br />

lush countrysides, long coastlines, and<br />

rocky mountains. From Egypt to Lebanon<br />

to Iran, you’ll find overlap in dishes<br />

like tabbouleh, pilaf, and hummus, yet<br />

heavily regional differences within each.<br />

To paraphrase celebrated Middle Eastern<br />

food writer Claudia Roden in the<br />

classic New Book of Middle Eastern Food,<br />

the history of Middle Eastern food and<br />

the Middle East are one and the same.<br />

“Dishes carry the triumphs and glories,<br />

the defeats, the loves and sorrows of the<br />

past,” she says in the book.<br />

Cook N Solo ReStauRaNtS<br />

ilili<br />

These diverse cuisines are no longer<br />

relegated to blanket descriptors like Middle<br />

Eastern or Mediterranean, as more<br />

U.S. operators explicitly bill themselves<br />

as Lebanese, Persian, Armenian, and<br />

Israeli. In the process, Americans are<br />

waking up to the deep nuances of this<br />

aromatic, wholesome, vegetable-heavy<br />

food, whose origins lie with the start of<br />

civilization.<br />

“The American dining public is increasingly<br />

primed to be excited about what’s<br />

new and next,” says Steve Cook, the restaurateur/partner<br />

of modern Israeli spot<br />

Zahav in Philadelphia who cofounded<br />

the CookNSolo restaurant group with<br />

chef Michael Solomonov. “There’s a sense<br />

of adventurousness among diners now<br />

that didn’t exist 10 years ago. Whether<br />

that’s regional Thai, Malaysian, or Israeli,<br />

there’s a much greater acceptance to try<br />

something authentic.”<br />

He likens Middle Eastern cuisine’s<br />

trajectory to that of Italian in U.S. restaurants<br />

in the 1980s, when generic redsauce<br />

joints started giving way to more<br />

regionally specialized concepts like Sicilian<br />

and Tuscan, reflecting growing consumer<br />

interest in authenticity.<br />

48 apRil <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.cOm


Middle eastern Cuisine<br />

nature funky ground lamb in a puddle of<br />

tahini imbued with sumac and preserved<br />

lemon. In New York, Tel Aviv celebrity<br />

chef Meir Adoni’s Nur restaurant<br />

nods to Israel’s Palestinian influences<br />

via hand-cut beef tartare with smoked<br />

eggplant cream, raw tahini, and sheep’s<br />

yogurt. And at Zahav, Solomonov turns<br />

Philadelphians onto street-food staples<br />

like sabich, a pita sandwich with hardboiled<br />

eggs and fried eggplant developed<br />

by Iraqi Jews in Israel.<br />

To say Zahav has gotten a lot of attention<br />

would be a massive understatement;<br />

the 10-year-old spot has nabbed top<br />

accolades from Bon Appétit, Esquire, and<br />

Eater, and remains one of Philly’s toughest<br />

reservations. But when Solomonov<br />

and Cook opened in 2008 on a nondescript<br />

street in the Society Hill neighborhood,<br />

“nobody was really talking about<br />

Israeli cuisine,” Cook says. “People always<br />

equated Israeli food with Middle Eastern,<br />

and that was pretty much everything<br />

they knew about it.”<br />

Bringing hummus to the white<br />

tablecloth<br />

Despite shifting early toward more<br />

approachable food, Zahav is a decidedly<br />

upscale dining experience—with craft<br />

cocktails and a strong focus on service<br />

in a cool, loft-like space with an open<br />

kitchen, leather booth seating, and dim<br />

pendant lights. Cook says they had to<br />

actively push back against a casual perception,<br />

trading graphic T-shirts for<br />

more formal staff uniforms.<br />

It’s a challenge familiar to many Middle<br />

Eastern concepts looking to divorce<br />

themselves from the fast-casual, buildyour-own<br />

bowl/sandwich image so many<br />

Americans have cultivated of Middle<br />

Eastern fare. In Chicago, 48-year-old<br />

Armenian stalwart Sayat Nova has consistently<br />

fought against the stereotype<br />

that ethnic restaurants should be cheap.<br />

“Middle Eastern food went on the<br />

path of fast food and stayed with it,”<br />

says chef/owner Roupen Demirdjian,<br />

whose late father, Arsen, opened Sayat<br />

Nova in 1970. “I think they just want to<br />

attract the masses. We’re a little more of<br />

an upscale, white-tablecloth restaurant.<br />

Michael Persico<br />

a family-style feast at zahav often includes many mezes, such as hummus,<br />

baba ganoush, green tahini, and fresh salads.<br />

FOODNEWSFEED.cOm aPril <strong>2018</strong> 49


MIDDLE EASTERN CUISINE<br />

“If you’re trying to sell<br />

something that’s relatively<br />

unknown, if you describe<br />

it as Middle Eastern food,<br />

you’re covering a bigger<br />

area. It’s a get-them-inthe-door<br />

kind of thing.”<br />

ROUPEN DEMIRDJIAN<br />

Sayat Nova, Chicago<br />

50 APRIL <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COM


ShakShuka iS<br />

perhapS the<br />

moSt iconic of<br />

iSraeli diSheS.<br />

Michael Persico<br />

It’s troublesome, because people say, ‘I can get hummus and<br />

lentil soup at this place down the street for very cheap.’ And<br />

I’m like, ‘Well, yeah, but I go looking for the best chickpeas,<br />

the best tahini, and best red lentils I can find.’”<br />

Demirdjian’s family hails from the Adana region of Turkey,<br />

near the Syrian border. It’s an area Armenian communities<br />

called home for thousands of years as part of the<br />

Ottoman Empire, until the Turkish-Armenian conflict of<br />

the late 19th century resulted in the deportation and massacre<br />

of roughly 1.5 million Armenians in 1918. Now just<br />

50,000–70,000 Armenian Turks remain, and many call<br />

Istanbul home.<br />

Sayat Nova’s interpretation of Armenian cuisine thus<br />

betrays strong Levant influences. Cracked wheat tabbouleh<br />

salad is juicier than its herb-centric Lebanese sibling,<br />

thanks to a heavy dose of tomato and lemon juice. And<br />

everything from delicate lamb, beef, and chicken kebabs to<br />

lamb-stuffed grape leaves is tinged with peppery spice. “That<br />

comes from being in the middle of spice trade routes for centuries,”<br />

Demirdjian says of being at the crossroads of western<br />

Asia, the eastern Mediterranean, and northeast Africa.<br />

Even 48 years after Sayat Nova opened, Chicagoland<br />

restaurants billing themselves as Armenian remain scarce;<br />

Demirdjian could only recall fast-casual Siunik in north<br />

suburb Glenview and full-service Ararat in Mundelein, Illinois.<br />

But that doesn’t mean there isn’t Armenian cooking<br />

happening in the countless Middle Eastern–labeled spots<br />

throughout the area.<br />

“If you’re trying to sell something that’s relatively<br />

unknown, if you describe it as Middle Eastern food, you’re<br />

covering a bigger area,” he says. “It’s a get-them-in-the-door<br />

kind of thing. Even in L.A., where there are a ton of Armenians,<br />

they call their restaurants Middle Eastern. I never<br />

did. I didn’t want to.”<br />

Lightening up<br />

Lebanese cuisine has long enjoyed a fairly high profile stateside,<br />

which Philippe Massoud, executive chef and CEO of<br />

ilili in New York, attributes to widespread Lebanese diaspora,<br />

resulting both from catastrophe and exploration. The<br />

19th century saw especially strong concentrations of Lebanese<br />

people migrating to North and South America.<br />

Lebanon was under control of the Ottoman Empire until<br />

World War I, after which it was colonized by the French and<br />

saw American troops in the 1950s and ’80s, though it’s been<br />

formally independent since 1943.<br />

To understand Lebanese cuisine, one has to understand,<br />

beyond the nation’s contentious political and cultural history,<br />

its geography and agriculture. Lebanon is one of the<br />

few countries in the region that has four seasons, abundant<br />

water, and a multitude of microclimates. “Things are<br />

greener and there’s a lot of citrus, so flavors and ingredients<br />

are allowed to have their natural presence on plate rather<br />

than being over-seasoned or over-pickled,” Massoud says.<br />

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MIDDLE EASTERN CUISINE<br />

“These days, more<br />

people are realizing that<br />

Persian food is simple,<br />

healthy, and delicious.<br />

I think that is why it is<br />

becoming popular.”<br />

SHAWN SALOOT,<br />

Darya Restaurant, Los Angeles<br />

THINKSTOCK<br />

52 APRIL <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COM


Wealthy families might slaughter a goat<br />

once a month, but the majority of people<br />

eat primarily vegetarian—vegetable<br />

stews and a variety of hot and cold<br />

mezze.<br />

Massoud opened fine-dining ilili in<br />

Manhattan’s Flatiron district in 2008<br />

as an answer to the success of high-end<br />

Japanese spots Nobu and Zuma. “What<br />

they did to Asian cuisine, we hope to<br />

achieve with Levantine cuisine,” he says.<br />

Ilili’s herbaceous, lightly dressed tabbouleh<br />

reflects the region’s abundance,<br />

while the hummus is almost theological<br />

in its ratios: “Just soft enough to<br />

maintain the integrity of the chickpea,<br />

just nutty enough to give the flavor of<br />

tahini, and just lemony enough for a hint<br />

of acidity when you drizzle it with olive<br />

oil and scoop it up with pita,” Massoud<br />

says. “It took a while for people to appreciate<br />

what we consider the real deal.”<br />

What’s pervasive across the menu is<br />

a purposeful lightness to entice people<br />

to come back, which Massoud achieved<br />

through reducing the fat, oil, and salt.<br />

“I wanted people to come and have an<br />

orgy of food and still be able to go dancing,”<br />

he says.<br />

Tasting Tehrangeles<br />

About half of the country’s Iranian population<br />

lives in Los Angeles, according to<br />

U.S. Census data. The region’s diaspora<br />

has been lovingly dubbed Tehrangeles.<br />

Yet for a long time, residents’ exposure<br />

to the cuisine was largely via sandwich<br />

shops and kebab houses, like shoeboxsized<br />

Attari and beloved strip-mall storefront<br />

It’s All Good House of Kabob.<br />

“These days, more people are realizing<br />

that Persian food is simple, healthy, and<br />

delicious,” says Shawn Saloot, partner of<br />

stalwart Darya Restaurant in Orange<br />

County and West Los Angeles. “I think<br />

that is why it is becoming popular.”<br />

Iran is home to one of the world’s oldest<br />

continuous major civilizations, with<br />

historical and urban settlements dating<br />

back to 7,000 B.C. Once a major empire,<br />

the country has endured invasions by<br />

the Greeks, Arabs, Turks, and Mongols—<br />

though it’s reasserted its national identity<br />

throughout the centuries. Historical<br />

interactions with neighboring regions<br />

have undoubtedly affected the cuisine,<br />

though, with Caucasian, Levantine,<br />

Greek, Central Asian, Russian, and Turkish<br />

gastronomy all leaving their mark.<br />

“Persian food originated from different<br />

parts of Iran, each with their own<br />

specific and unique culture and geography,<br />

such as the Caspian Sea whitefish<br />

with herb rice,” Saloot says. “But<br />

let me tell you something, Persian food<br />

is not spicy at all.” Rather, he says, it’s<br />

more often tinged with aromatic saffron,<br />

turmeric, and cinnamon. Grilled meat<br />

is often the centerpiece, with rice and<br />

bread being staples of every Persian table.<br />

Saloot opened Darya with his brother<br />

Ali Saloot in 1985, opting for old-school<br />

elegance via chandeliers, Victorian décor,<br />

and an ambitious menu of traditional<br />

Persian meats, stews, and rice dishes.<br />

They opened a second outpost in Santa<br />

Monica 10 years later.<br />

The Saloots draw from Southern<br />

California’s agricultural abundance to<br />

faithfully re-create classic dishes, such<br />

as kashke bademjan, with sauteed eggplant<br />

mixed with yogurt, fried garlic,<br />

turmeric, fried onion, and topped with<br />

sautéed mint, garlic, and kashk (whey<br />

sauce). Their famous tahdig, or crispy<br />

rice from the bottom of the pot, is<br />

heaped with Fesenjan stew, made from<br />

slow-boiled chicken in a sauce of evenslower-cooked<br />

pomegranate and ground<br />

walnuts. Homespun touches permeate<br />

Juicy Chicken—a kebab made from<br />

chicken-breast medallions marinated<br />

overnight in lemon juice, saffron, corn<br />

oil, salt, and pepper, then charbroiled—<br />

which was so named by Saloot’s then-7-<br />

year-old son.<br />

Yet even as the landscape has grown<br />

more crowded with spots like stylish<br />

Flame and Iranian-American Cafe<br />

Glacé doling out lamb tahchin—saffron<br />

rice cakes—and Persian gyros, Darya<br />

remains true to the Saloot’s Iran for 33<br />

years and counting.<br />

“I cannot change the traditional Iranian<br />

food,” Saloot says. “We have only<br />

tried to keep its standard the highest<br />

possible by using fresh and quality ingredients.”<br />

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FOODNEWSFEED.cOm <strong>April</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 53


SUNDA,<br />

CHICAGO<br />

REAL ESTATE<br />

Getting Real About<br />

Real Estate<br />

BY AMANDA BALTAZAR<br />

54 APRIL <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COM


Choosing a<br />

new location<br />

in another city<br />

or another<br />

state takes<br />

much more<br />

than the old<br />

adage ‘location,<br />

location,<br />

location.’<br />

Rockit Ranch PRoductions<br />

Billy Dec gets easily exciteD<br />

about new locations and<br />

puts everything into finding<br />

the right spots for his<br />

restaurants. The CEO and<br />

founder of Rockit Ranch<br />

Productions is making his<br />

first forays out of Chicago,<br />

where he has three restaurants,<br />

to open a second location<br />

of his concept, Sunda,<br />

in Nashville this spring.<br />

Many factors have gone<br />

into the site selection, but<br />

for Dec, “it simply comes<br />

down to whether or not a<br />

particular location is one I’m<br />

dying to be in. To know if<br />

it’s the right fit for our concept,<br />

I have to love the people,<br />

culture, environment,<br />

beauty, potential. It has to<br />

invigorate, excite, motivate,<br />

and hype me up to deliver<br />

our best product at the<br />

highest level.”<br />

Rockit Ranch PRoductions<br />

Sunda,<br />

FoodnEWSFEEd.Com<br />

ChiCago<br />

aPRil <strong>2018</strong> 55


REAL ESTATE<br />

To dig down deep with that, Dec has<br />

been immersing himself into Nashville<br />

for the past seven years. Beyond understanding<br />

what makes a city tick, Dec<br />

says, he also looked at Nashville more<br />

scientifically, examining parameters<br />

such as population growth, proximity<br />

to targeted demographic, lack of competition,<br />

and strategic local partners.<br />

The AinsworTh<br />

“To know if it’s the right fit for our concept, I have<br />

to love the people, culture, environment, beauty,<br />

potential. It has to invigorate, excite, motivate,<br />

and hype me up to deliver our best product at the<br />

highest level.” —Billy Dec, CEO & fOunDEr, rOCkit ranCh<br />

The AinsworTh<br />

Ainsworth,<br />

newArk, nJ<br />

Ainsworth,<br />

new York CitY<br />

The Golden rule<br />

Golden Corral uses technology to hone<br />

its site-selection process. The Raleigh,<br />

North Carolina–based chain, which has<br />

around 500 restaurants across the U.S.,<br />

uses PopStats and Experian for demographic<br />

information. It also uses a demographic<br />

platform, Intalytics, for its major<br />

analysis. “We have a pretty sophisticated<br />

way of looking at this,” says senior vice<br />

president of development Dave Conklin.<br />

After this, the concept researches the<br />

market. A high-density market is essential,<br />

Conklin says, since high-frequency<br />

users visit the restaurants as many as 80<br />

times a year. For a large location, he looks<br />

for 110,000 people within a 15-minute<br />

driving radius and around 31,000 cars<br />

passing daily. “Our preference is highway<br />

exposure, and if we can’t have that,<br />

we want the busiest street,” Conklin says.<br />

The chain is not averse to small<br />

locations, either. For these, it looks<br />

for 70,000 people within 20 minutes,<br />

21,000 cars passing daily, and 18,000<br />

employees nearby. “That employee population<br />

really drives your lunchtime business—we<br />

survive on multiple dayparts.”<br />

Conklin also looks at which bigbox<br />

retailers, such as Home Depot and<br />

Walmart, are nearby because they generate<br />

traffic. “We also look at areas that<br />

have positive growth—at eating and<br />

drinking sales, as well as retail sales,”<br />

he says. “This shows the health of the<br />

market.”<br />

A change that Golden Corral made in<br />

recent years is a move into in-line and<br />

end-cap locations. “Freestanding restau-<br />

56 <strong>April</strong> <strong>2018</strong> FooDnewsFeeD.Com


REAL ESTATE<br />

Paige HosPitality grouP<br />

Southampon<br />

SoCial Club,<br />

Southampton, nY<br />

121 Fulton<br />

Street,<br />

new York CitY<br />

Paige HosPitality grouP<br />

FooDnewSFeeD.Com aPril <strong>2018</strong> 57


REAL ESTATE<br />

Mr. PurPle,<br />

New York CiTY<br />

Gerber Group<br />

The ChesTer,<br />

New York CiTY<br />

paiGe Hospitality Group<br />

58 <strong>April</strong> <strong>2018</strong> FooDNewsFeeD.CoM


REAL ESTATE<br />

rants will always be our bread and butter,<br />

but changing market conditions, such as<br />

increasing development costs and different<br />

demands from consumers, have<br />

resulted in us looking at different locations,”<br />

Conklin says. In seeking in-line<br />

and end-cap locations, the chain tries<br />

to secure sites that have great visibility<br />

from the street, pylon signage, great<br />

access, and plenty of parking.<br />

The imporTance<br />

of siTe visiTs<br />

Buffalo Wings & Rings also relies on science,<br />

but takes a very hybrid approach<br />

when selecting new locations, says Philip<br />

Schram, chief development officer of the<br />

Cincinnati, Ohio–based company, which<br />

has 56 locations across the country.<br />

The brand turns to data-mining companies<br />

such as eSite Analytics. “They can<br />

tell you who lives nearby, who works<br />

nearby, and who are the customers,” Schram<br />

says. “Therefore, we can understand<br />

if our restaurants would fit.”<br />

If a site’s approved, a team visits it<br />

to look at a number of factors, but primary<br />

among them are traffic, visibility,<br />

and a vibrant trade area. It also looks at<br />

the demographics. As a sports bar, the<br />

company wants to be in an upper-bluecollar<br />

or middle-white-collar area.<br />

Schram has learned his lesson about<br />

site visits and knows they’re non-negotiable.<br />

He once skipped a Texas site visit<br />

and didn’t realize the location was only<br />

accessible from one side of the freeway.<br />

“So, theoretically, while we have access to<br />

a huge population, we actually only have<br />

access to half of it.” The site was also halfway<br />

between two vibrant trade areas and<br />

three miles from most houses, which is<br />

too far. This location, he says, has struggled<br />

since it first opened.<br />

Paige Hospitality Group is making<br />

its first forays out of the New York City<br />

region and expanding its brand, The Ainsworth,<br />

to Kansas City in January, Nashville<br />

in <strong>April</strong>, and Philadelphia this summer.<br />

How To Choose<br />

Your Next Location<br />

GeT booTs on The Ground<br />

Nothing stands in the place of getting to know the area<br />

firsthand<br />

harness TechnoloGy<br />

Use digital analytics to gather demographics, traffic<br />

numbers, and population stats<br />

learn from peers<br />

Look at who else has located nearby and notice if there<br />

other anchors like big-box stores to draw customers in<br />

examine The GrowTh<br />

The rate of eating and drinking sales says a lot about the<br />

health of the market<br />

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FOODNEWSFEED.COm apriL <strong>2018</strong> 59


REAL ESTATE<br />

CEO Matt Shendell says three things<br />

were important in the city selection: a<br />

loyal sports fan base, an emerging food<br />

and beverage scene, and a location<br />

with plenty of New York transplants,<br />

“because then you have brand recognition,”<br />

he says. Once he decided to expand<br />

out of the Big Apple, he made a list of all<br />

the cities that touched all those points.<br />

He then hired brokers who visited those<br />

cities, and a team from the restaurant<br />

group visited them based on the findings.<br />

For real estate, Paige Hospitality<br />

Group looked for nighttime traffic, Sunday<br />

football traffic, and corporate happy<br />

hour visitors. Shendell says he also looks<br />

at whether there are other competing<br />

businesses in the area and whether they<br />

are doing well. Disposable income is also<br />

a good indicator, he says, because the restaurant<br />

needs to be near people who are<br />

able to afford dining out. Plus, he shoots<br />

for locations that have a good mix of residential<br />

and commercial business, which<br />

brings business at different times.<br />

Howard Cannon is the president of<br />

the consulting firm Restaurant Expert<br />

Witness in Birmingham, Alabama. He<br />

“You should never<br />

compromise who<br />

you are, what your<br />

brand identity is, or<br />

what your needs are.”<br />

Billy Dec<br />

CEO & fOunDEr,<br />

rOCkit ranCh<br />

says that when selecting a site, operators<br />

need to check one of two boxes: either on<br />

a busy street or far from it. And there’s<br />

no middle ground between them, he says.<br />

The former will have high rent, but also<br />

a lot of traffic passing its doors; the latter<br />

will have low rent but will require a<br />

lot of marketing dollars to advertise its<br />

presence. “You have to pick your poison,”<br />

Cannon says.<br />

The ideal building<br />

Dec says he doesn’t really mind what<br />

a building’s history is, since the world<br />

moves at such a fast pace and circumstances<br />

change. “Though in cases where<br />

there has been a string of failures, I’d<br />

watch out,” he says of leasing an existing<br />

building.<br />

Buffalo Wings & Rings opts for a mixture<br />

of leased buildings and new builds<br />

when opening a new location. “When<br />

you build from scratch, there are no surprises,”<br />

Schram says, “and when I do a<br />

conversion, we often end up changing<br />

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60 <strong>April</strong> <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.cOm


REAL ESTATE<br />

rant, which doesn’t lead to any savings.”<br />

Some franchisees, he says, view<br />

the building as their 401(K) and want<br />

to own the real estate, but often these<br />

buildings are a liability instead of an<br />

asset, “especially if the trade area moves<br />

or the branding changes a lot,” Schram<br />

says. “So you can end up stuck with a<br />

building.”<br />

Paige Hospitality Group’s Shendell<br />

prefers to find sites that have held restaurants<br />

previously, he says, “so all the<br />

heavy lifting has been done for us.” Otherwise,<br />

he explains, “there’s a lot more to<br />

worry about and it takes about 20 percent<br />

longer to open.” It’s also often more<br />

expensive, too.<br />

He seeks buildings that are 20–35<br />

percent below market price on the<br />

rent per square foot. He also looks at<br />

the cost of build-outs he’ll have to do,<br />

and at the Tenant Improvement Allowance,<br />

which is the amount landlords will<br />

spend so the restaurant can build out<br />

the space.<br />

LandLord considerations<br />

As a former real estate broker, Scott<br />

Gerber is pretty savvy when it comes<br />

to selecting buildings for the 10 restaurants<br />

in the portfolio of his New York<br />

City–based The Gerber Group, nine of<br />

which are in hotels.<br />

First, if the site has had several<br />

failed restaurants in it previously, he’s<br />

not interested because there’s a stigma<br />

to the location, he says. But there’s an<br />

advantage in going into a space that a<br />

single restaurant has previously occupied:<br />

It typically has a lot of the infrastructure<br />

he needs. Most important with<br />

the building is the condition it’s in and<br />

the ease of making any changes, he says.<br />

The landlord is also of vital importance.<br />

It’s important to research that person’s<br />

reputation and how easy he is to<br />

work with. “Inevitably, something comes<br />

up that we haven’t thought of that’s not<br />

outlined in the lease,” Gerber says. “So<br />

having a good relationship can make<br />

that easier.” If a restaurant was previously<br />

in the location, ask its operators<br />

about working with the landlord.<br />

“Make sure the negotiation is a good<br />

deal for both sides and only a little bit<br />

painful for either of you,” Gerber adds.<br />

“If I’ve made it too painful for the landlord,<br />

then when I have to ask for something<br />

that’s not in the lease, he’s going<br />

to stick it to me.”<br />

Above all, Dec says, one of the most<br />

important things to consider in site<br />

selection is making sure it fits the brand,<br />

and that it’s not about a landlord’s deal<br />

or city’s attraction.<br />

“You should never compromise who<br />

you are, what your brand identity is, or<br />

what your needs are,” he says.<br />

4X<br />

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FOODNEWSFEED.cOm <strong>April</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 61


WANT MORE REGULARS?<br />

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©<strong>2018</strong> National Restaurant Association. All rights reserved.


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<strong>April</strong> <strong>2018</strong> // Chef Tools<br />

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Trending on The menu // Chef Tools<br />

HigH-TeCH ovens<br />

make iT easy To Train<br />

new employees,<br />

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Enhanced Efficiency<br />

High-tech devices and equipment save chefs time and money. By Peggy CarouThers<br />

Today, pressure on restaurant leaders<br />

is immense. From increasing<br />

labor costs and a shrinking labor<br />

pool to growing competition for customers<br />

and a more demanding public,<br />

there are numerous reason why chefs<br />

and their kitchens are being tasked with<br />

doing more with less. As a result, kitchen<br />

tools that make the lives of chefs and<br />

cooks easier are becoming a critical part<br />

of operations.<br />

“Restaurants have to continually reinvent<br />

themselves and provide offerings<br />

to an ever-changing customer demographic,”<br />

says Dave Shave, vice president<br />

of global sales and marketing at<br />

TurboChef. “Given that expanding the<br />

restaurant footprint or adding new locations<br />

is not always an option, the need<br />

for new equipment that can deliver new<br />

menu options and expand revenue by<br />

providing a high quality delivery solutions<br />

is key. This equipment needs to<br />

focus on being energy efficient, easy to<br />

operate, and reliable.”<br />

Installing tools that save space and<br />

costs are great first step in making kitchens<br />

more efficient. Ventless ovens, for<br />

example, have lower upfront installation<br />

costs than traditional ovens with<br />

hoods, and they also reduce ongoing utility<br />

costs. This means that restaurants<br />

will receive ongoing benefits throughout<br />

the life of the oven.<br />

Equipment that also ensures food is<br />

cooked consistently also offers big benefits<br />

to the kitchen. “Induction delivery<br />

systems can also help ensure that food<br />

reaches customers at the best temperature<br />

and consistency,” Shave says. This<br />

can save cooks time and help managers<br />

ensure quality dishes are being served.<br />

Other tools can reduce strain from<br />

the kitchen and make training new<br />

cooks simpler. For example, food pro-<br />

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knife skills, but do understand there are<br />

so many options with food processors to<br />

make a kitchen run even more efficiently<br />

and save both time and labor,” he says.<br />

“By performing time-consuming tasks,<br />

such as food prep, for them, the chefs<br />

are now able to become more creative<br />

and focus on other restaurant functions.”<br />

Though it may not seem as glamorous<br />

as high-tech equipment, storage systems<br />

can be generate valuable cost savings.<br />

“Storing and the smart handling of<br />

food products to extend their shelf life<br />

is one way to control costs,” says Patricia<br />

Guerrero, a senior marketing manager<br />

at Cambro. “This point is particularly<br />

important for facilities that work<br />

with a lot of fresh produce and other perishable<br />

products. Making fresh produce<br />

last for an additional two or three days<br />

could help save hundreds or even thousands<br />

of dollars per month.”<br />

Even for restaurants that aren’t ready<br />

to in large systems right away, starting<br />

with a single new tool can still offer big<br />

benefits, Guerrero says. “Implementing<br />

use of just one type of product, a commercial-grade<br />

storage container or food<br />

pan with a sealing cover, is enough to<br />

produce savings by itself, but combining<br />

several creative solutions will always<br />

have the most significant impact,” she<br />

says. “Consistency, efficiency, and management<br />

in every step of the operator<br />

process, from ordering items to storing<br />

and preserving them to preparing and<br />

serving them, are the details that produce<br />

successful businesses despite the<br />

variables involved in food service.”<br />

The Kitchen of the Future<br />

Over the last decade, the speed of technological<br />

growth has revolutionized life<br />

outside the kitchen, and in the last few<br />

years, it has been doing the same inside.<br />

This speed of change, however, is only<br />

growing, and restaurants can expect to<br />

find new tools in their kitchens soon.<br />

With the tremendous growth of<br />

mobile technology, for example, it is<br />

no surprise that it has already started<br />

to cross into the realm of guest experience<br />

and inventory control. “Connectivity<br />

is becoming a key element in the<br />

equipment space,” Shave says. “We have<br />

seen over the past couple of years how<br />

ordering has changed in this space with<br />

mobile ordering now commonplace.”<br />

But as these mobile technology<br />

advances, it is also crossing into the<br />

kitchen. “Integrating the equipment into<br />

the ordering system to stage and streamline<br />

the cooking process is the next step,”<br />

Shave says. Additionally, he notes that<br />

the new ability for equipment to alert<br />

management when service is required<br />

means that equipment has more up time<br />

and can generate more sales.<br />

Much like mobile, as new technology<br />

revolutionizes other industries,<br />

restaurants can expect these hightech<br />

solutions to enter kitchens soon,<br />

too. Datassential reports that 81 percent<br />

of consumers believe science can<br />

have a positive impact on food, and<br />

research shows that many consumers<br />

are interested in trying food prepared<br />

with advanced techniques. For example,<br />

33 percent of Gen Z and 31 percent<br />

of millennial diners are interested in 3-D<br />

printed foods, which could help further<br />

reduce kitchen strain.<br />

Machine learning is another way<br />

technology may soon enter kitchens.<br />

This technology could help chefs choose<br />

new ideas, dishes, and ingredients to<br />

explore and help them plan for shifts in<br />

consumer demand and industry changes.<br />

Datassential is already launching a new<br />

machine-learning engine called Haiku<br />

this year. This will help the company predict<br />

food trends four years in advance<br />

with 99.3 percent accuracy. These<br />

resources are already available to chefs,<br />

and as machine learning grows, these<br />

kinds of tools could soon find their way<br />

into individual kitchens.<br />

Food and labor costs, customer<br />

demands, and other pressures will keep<br />

influencing the restaurant industry, and<br />

as it shifts, kitchens will have to adapt to<br />

new techniques and technologies to keep<br />

up. By investing in the right tools, chefs<br />

and their kitchens can become more efficient<br />

and spend more time on the things<br />

that matter most—serving good food.<br />

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TRENDING ON THE MENU // Chef Tools<br />

Tech Trends<br />

TECH TRENDS IN THE KITCHEN: THE FUTURE IS HERE // COURTESY OF DATASSENTIAL<br />

CONSIDER THIS: 81% of consumers believe science can have a positive impact on food. What are some ways this<br />

can happen?<br />

3-D PRINTING<br />

• Could food printing be in the chef’s tool kit? In<br />

2014, Barcelona-based Natural Machines produced<br />

a 3-D food printer that could create many dishes<br />

beyond just sweets. Currently, high-end kitchens<br />

and foodservice operators are using the tool.<br />

• 3-D printing technologies are printing foods<br />

beyond confections, spanning everything from ravioli<br />

to pizza and beyond.<br />

• 33% of Gen Z and 31% of Millennials are interested<br />

in trying 3-D printed foods<br />

MACHINE LEARNING<br />

• Machine learning tools could assist chefs in choosing<br />

dishes, ingredients, and ideas for their menus.<br />

• Datassential will be releasing a tool called Food<br />

Studio this year, which harnesses the power of<br />

machine learning to help chefs experiment with<br />

and develop concepts with data on 1 million dishes,<br />

flavors, and ingredients. Stay tuned!<br />

• This year, Datassential will launch a new machine<br />

learning engine called Haiku, which can forecast<br />

food trends four years in advance with 99.3% directional<br />

accuracy. A few predictions:<br />

Trend Current Mac Stage 2017 Penetration 2021 Predicted Penetration Net Point Change % Change<br />

Hard Root Beer Adoption 0.6% 1.1% +0.5% +80%<br />

Ghost Pepper Adoption 1.2% 2.0% +0.8% +77%<br />

Avocado Toast Adoption 1.6% 2.8% +1.2% +77%<br />

Gose Inception 1.8% 3.2% +1.4% +76%<br />

CELLULAR AGRICULTURE<br />

• What is it? The production of agricultural products<br />

from cell cultures within a laboratory. These products<br />

are exactly or nearly the same as the original<br />

product; the only difference is how they are made.<br />

• 27% of consumers believe cellular agriculture foods<br />

are better for your heath<br />

THE CONCEPT OF CELLULAR AGRICULTURE IS<br />

STILL BRAND-NEW TO CONSUMERS<br />

While familiarity is stronger among tech enthusiasts,<br />

younger generations, and foodies, there’s still quite a<br />

way to go before cellular agriculture enters the mainstream<br />

consciousness. But then again, it’s really all just<br />

getting started…<br />

FAMILIARITY WITH CELLULAR AGRICULTURE<br />

TOTAL Foodies Tech Enthusiasts Gen Z + Millennials Gen X Boomers+<br />

10% 19% 37% 26% 10% 4%<br />

PLANT-BASED EATING Younger generations and foodies are leading the charge toward plant-based eating.<br />

• Dairy // 16%<br />

• Burgers // 14%<br />

• Hot dogs / Sausages // 11%<br />

• Ground meat // 10%<br />

• Jerky // 10%<br />

• Raw fish // 9%<br />

• Shellfish // 9%<br />

• Cold cuts // 9%<br />

• Bacon // 8%<br />

• Fish fillets // 8%<br />

• Steak // 8%<br />

65% OF CONSUMERS TODAY want plant-based alternatives at traditional grocery stores<br />

68 APRIL <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COM


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TRENDING ON THE MENU // Chef Tools<br />

KITCHEN ROBOTICS<br />

• Chefs need not worry! Consumers would prefer<br />

robotic food and beverage preparation methods<br />

to help with at-home cooking.<br />

• Potentially, consumers prefer a human touch when<br />

dining away from home because human care and<br />

consideration in making their meals adds substantially<br />

to the value of dining away from home.<br />

• Interest in robotics as a part of life is growing and<br />

will continue to flourish as technology integrates<br />

itself into everyday life.<br />

• Younger generations are the most welcoming to it<br />

entering their lives.<br />

CONSUMERS TODAY PREFER HUMAN<br />

INTERACTION TO ROBOTS…<br />

But the gap closes considerably with younger generations<br />

and will likely continue to close as robots become<br />

ubiquitous in everyday life.<br />

Preference Total Gen Z + Millennials<br />

Prefer Robots 14% 22%<br />

Don’t Care Either Way 28% 26%<br />

Prefer Humans 56% 47%<br />

THE KITCHEN OF THE<br />

FUTURE WILL INCLUDE<br />

DEVICES THAT MAKE<br />

COOKING EVEN MORE<br />

EFFICIENT, SUCH AS 3-D<br />

PRINTERS.<br />

SHUTTERSTOCK<br />

FOR FORWARD-THINKING CHEFS: How Consumers Feel About Futuristic Kitchen Technology<br />

FUTURISTIC KITCHEN TECHNOLOGIES CONSUMERS WANT TO USE OR TRY<br />

Technologies Total Gen Z Millennials Gen X Boomer Silent Gen<br />

Back-of-the-House Robots 19% 29% 35% 18% 9% 0%<br />

Interactive Food Prep Robots 19% 40% 34% 20% 8% 0%<br />

3-D Printed Food 17% 33% 31% 15% 7% 1%<br />

Lab-Grown Food 16% 27% 29% 19% 5% 2%<br />

70 APRIL <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COM


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Perspectives By Mary avant<br />

An Oklahoma City Star on<br />

the Rise<br />

at just 33, restaurateur<br />

rachel Cope has taken<br />

OKC by storm with five<br />

concepts that are making<br />

a name for the region’s<br />

budding food scene.<br />

When Rachel cope finds a gap<br />

in the market, her first instinct is to fill<br />

it. And in the up-and-coming Oklahoma<br />

City restaurant market, there have been<br />

plenty of gaps to fill. After working frontof-house<br />

and managerial positions in a<br />

number of local restaurants during and<br />

after college, Cope set out to create a concept<br />

of her own, inspired by the famous<br />

Home Slice Pizza in Austin, Texas.<br />

“There wasn’t really anyone here<br />

doing pizza by the slice,” Cope says of<br />

her New York–style pizza joint, Empire<br />

Slice House. The 4-year-old concept features<br />

a menu of out-of-the-box pizzas,<br />

from the Ghostface Killah—made with<br />

ghost chili marinara, pepperoni, poblano,<br />

and barbecue chips—to the Brussell<br />

Westbrook, featuring bacon, caramelized<br />

onions, Brussels sprouts, and<br />

cherry pepper relish. The late-night spot<br />

is also home to a full bar, creating a vibe<br />

that’s hip, cool, and affordable, Cope says.<br />

“We kind of pride ourselves on latenight<br />

dining,” she adds. “Empire filled<br />

the niche for a funky pizza place that’s<br />

open late with a full bar that we definitely<br />

had never seen in the state.”<br />

Empire has become so popular and<br />

profitable, in fact, that Cope was forced<br />

to build a to-go outpost right next door<br />

in 2017, known as Easy E Slice Shop. In<br />

addition to offering pizza by the slice,<br />

RestauRateuR Rachel cope’s collection of RestauRants Ranges fRom new YoRk–<br />

style pizza at empire slice house to vegan ramen at gorō.<br />

Easy E serves as the catering and commissary<br />

kitchen for Empire, improving<br />

speed and service for its pizza-loving<br />

guests.<br />

But before Easy E came a number<br />

of other Cope-led concepts, the first<br />

of which was Gorō Ramen. For years,<br />

Cope’s chef friend Jeff Chanchaleune<br />

operated a ramen truck in Oklahoma<br />

City, until he and Cope dreamed up the<br />

concept for a pop-up dinner series—<br />

called Project Slurp—in a nearby brickand-mortar<br />

spot. For an entire year, the<br />

pair hosted dinners once a month, where<br />

Chanchaleuene would whip up ramen<br />

and other Japanese cuisine, while Cope<br />

would experiment with fun cocktails<br />

and drinks to pair with the food.<br />

“Not only were we trying out Japanese<br />

dishes and Asian dishes, we were also<br />

testing our drinks,” Cope said. “That was<br />

our way of testing this thought: Would<br />

people come to a ramen shop enough to<br />

support it and be successful?”<br />

The answer: A resounding yes. After<br />

selling out every dinner that year, the<br />

duo opened Gorō Ramen in 2015 in<br />

OKC’s Plaza District—one of only two<br />

ramen shops in the city.<br />

Next came Revolución, a tacos-andtequila<br />

spot in the home of a former<br />

auto garage. Despite the prevalence of<br />

Tex-Mex concepts in the market, Cope<br />

says the concept she was going for—one<br />

that was modern and cool, with a nod<br />

to more traditional Mexican cuisine—<br />

was nowhere to be found. So, naturally,<br />

she created it.<br />

The same goes for Ponyboy, Cope’s<br />

coffee shop by day and cocktail bar by<br />

Chris NguyeN<br />

72 <strong>April</strong> <strong>2018</strong> FOODnEWSFEED.COM


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Perspectives<br />

night. The concept—which was designed<br />

to have a “very Oklahoma bar vibe”—<br />

boasts a lineup of down-to-earth cocktails<br />

at approachable prices. “Sometimes<br />

with craft cocktails, there’s this<br />

pretentiousness that comes along with<br />

that, and we don’t do that,” she says.<br />

“That’s not who we are.” Instead, Ponyboy<br />

focuses on locally sourced, recognizable<br />

ingredients and a level of service<br />

that makes bar-goers feel right at home.<br />

Under the 84 Hospitality Group<br />

umbrella, Cope’s handful of concepts<br />

each have distinct personalities and<br />

offerings but share the same guest<br />

experience, atmosphere, and friendly<br />

price point. Each location also places an<br />

emphasis on putting employees first—<br />

a mission that became close to Cope’s<br />

heart after noticing that turnover at her<br />

restaurants was unusually high. “I’m in a<br />

city where there’s only so many people to<br />

choose from, so I started thinking, ‘How<br />

do I eliminate people leaving? How can<br />

I make them see that waiting tables is<br />

not just temporary—that this could be<br />

a career?’” she says.<br />

She quickly found her answer after<br />

hiring a chief cultural officer, Anthony<br />

Dobey, late last year. Together, they<br />

worked to put an employee incentive<br />

program in place, in which they offer<br />

the group’s more than 300 employees<br />

the tools they need to not only grow in<br />

their careers, but also to grow as people.<br />

The program includes perks like $10<br />

haircuts, gym memberships and discounted<br />

yoga classes, free movies at the<br />

local theater, and a partnership with a<br />

nearby bank, where bank employees give<br />

talks on such topics as building credit<br />

and opening a savings account. As with<br />

the greater restaurant industry, 84 Hospitality<br />

Group attracts young employees,<br />

who Cope says are roughly between<br />

the ages of 17 and 28. “When I was that<br />

age, I wish somebody would have taught<br />

me what we’re trying to teach them now,”<br />

she says.<br />

Though exact figures aren’t available<br />

yet, Cope estimates that 84 Hospitality’s<br />

turnover rates have fallen by 25 percent<br />

since enacting the incentive program. As<br />

she points out, a restaurant’s employees<br />

are its best advocates since they are the<br />

ones interacting with the guests. Cope<br />

wants that enthusiasm for the company<br />

and the city to shine through.<br />

Also crucial for Cope: continuing to<br />

deliver on guests’ expectations for new<br />

and exciting concepts. “Now we feel an<br />

obligation—in a good way—to keep<br />

bringing cool things here,” she says of<br />

84 Hospitality’s role in the Oklahoma<br />

City dining scene. “It feels really good for<br />

people to say, ‘What are you guys going<br />

to do next?’”<br />

And although she has considered<br />

branching outside OKC to put her stamp<br />

on other markets across the country,<br />

Cope remains dedicated to the restaurant<br />

industry in her home state.<br />

“I would love to do something somewhere<br />

else,” she says. “But am I ready to<br />

let go of what’s happening in the city and<br />

put myself in another market and try to<br />

drive it there? I don’t know. I just need to<br />

finish what we started here.”<br />

Chris NguyeN<br />

Although cope is open to future expAnsion beyond oklAhomA city, she is committed to driving the mArket with unique<br />

concepts like ponyboy (top right), which speciAlizes in locAl fAre, And revolución with tAcos And ceviche (bottom right).<br />

74 <strong>April</strong> <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.cOm


Service By Kevin Hardy<br />

A More Human Touch of Tech<br />

restaurants continue<br />

to streamline their<br />

operations with new tech,<br />

but never at the expense<br />

of customer care.<br />

Abuelo’s<br />

Abuelo’s finds thAt the right bAlAnce of technology cAn enhAnce its<br />

hospitAlity And menu, which includes dishes like the pork tenderloin AbrigAdA.<br />

About four yeArs Ago, Abuelo’s<br />

Mexican Restaurants installed tabletop<br />

tablets. The Ziosk devices allow customers<br />

to order drinks, appetizers, and<br />

desserts without a server. They include<br />

games for kids and empower customers<br />

to settle their bill whenever they please,<br />

without waiting for a ticket or handing<br />

over a credit card.<br />

“We did not cut the number of servers<br />

because you still need to order the<br />

entrées from the server,” says Bob Lin,<br />

president of the Texas-based chain. “And<br />

with our restaurants, there’s so much<br />

customization we allow our guests, it’d<br />

be impossible to do it through a tablet.<br />

We think of ourselves as a casual-plus,<br />

so having those touchpoints with the<br />

guests is very important.”<br />

Table-top ordering represents just<br />

one step the chain has taken to integrate<br />

technology across the operation.<br />

It might seem that such products fit best<br />

in limited-service restaurants, where<br />

value, speed, and convenience are the<br />

main drivers. But Lin says full-service<br />

restaurants can find success going hightech,<br />

too. And they can do it without sacrificing<br />

hospitality—an important differentiator<br />

for the full-service segment.<br />

In fact, Lin believes some technology<br />

can improve the human element of<br />

service. Abuelo’s table-top devices allow<br />

staff to spend more time with customers;<br />

servers are freed up from running<br />

to the table with the check, back to the<br />

POS station, and then back to the table.<br />

“That stuff just kind of goes away,” Lin<br />

says. “There are always those occasions<br />

where the guest is frustrated because<br />

they’re ready to go and they can’t find<br />

the person to ring them out. It’s a loselose<br />

situation where we’re not turning<br />

the table as fast as we can and the customer<br />

is dissatisfied.”<br />

Lin says customers have met the<br />

change in stride, and they can still order<br />

and pay directly with a server if they<br />

choose. It’s a key consideration for those<br />

guests who are uncomfortable with or<br />

opposed to technology.<br />

The Ziosk system also upgraded customer<br />

satisfaction surveys with the<br />

questionnaire prompt on the tablet. Previously,<br />

the process relied on enticing<br />

customers with coupons or freebies to<br />

call in or visit a website to offer feedback.<br />

Although Abuelo’s offers no customer<br />

incentives with the new tablet-based surveys,<br />

the response rate has been higher.<br />

Plus, the system delivers granular results,<br />

down to a specific employee or a recurring<br />

issue.<br />

“If an employee’s consistently getting<br />

low marks in a particular area, then we<br />

can counsel the employee,” Lin says. “Or,<br />

if an employee is getting superior ratings<br />

at every interaction, then there are<br />

things we can do to reward the employee.<br />

It’s very actionable data that we’re getting.”<br />

As technology continues to reshape<br />

the industry—with transformational<br />

tools ranging from employee-schedul-<br />

FOOdneWSFeed.cOm <strong>April</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 75


Service<br />

ing systems to inventory management<br />

programs to digital ordering devices—<br />

full-service restaurants are increasingly<br />

rolling out customer-facing innovations<br />

that mirror those sweeping across their<br />

limited-service counterparts.<br />

But technology can sometimes go<br />

too far. TouchBistro founder and CEO<br />

Alex Barrotti pointed to a restaurant<br />

that invested deeply in table-top hologram<br />

technology that projected a virtual<br />

server in front of diners. The gizmo had<br />

little utilitarian purpose and, he says,<br />

that restaurant ultimately failed.<br />

“If you implement technology for the<br />

sake of technology, I think it’s always<br />

the wrong approach,” he says. “Technology<br />

should solve a problem or an issue.”<br />

TouchBistro offers its POS system on<br />

iPads, which can be used like traditional<br />

mounted systems. Or, servers can take<br />

the devices tableside—an option that<br />

about 10 percent of customers choose.<br />

Some restaurants are still wary of<br />

customers balking at the iPads on the<br />

table. Others worry that servers will<br />

struggle to make eye contact, thus compromising<br />

their service. But Barrotti says<br />

most fears are unwarranted.<br />

“I never see that,” Barrotti says. “It<br />

takes less time to tap on one item than<br />

to write down ‘chicken primavera’ or<br />

‘chicken parmesan.’ … A lot of these are<br />

misconceptions or stigmas that aren’t<br />

really happening in the real world.”<br />

On the iPad, TouchBistro’s app portrays<br />

each diner as a different colored<br />

chair around the table. Servers enter<br />

orders directly by tapping the chair<br />

images, which simplifies the bill-splitting<br />

process. It also speeds up service<br />

since orders for drinks or appetizers are<br />

transmitted instantly to the kitchen or<br />

bar, even as the server is still moving<br />

around a table. The system can decrease<br />

errors by avoiding penmanship issues.<br />

And it automatically prompts questions<br />

about side dishes or meat temperatures,<br />

avoiding those awkward trips back to<br />

the table.<br />

“There are less errors. There’s no transcribing<br />

at all. You’re taking the order<br />

right from the customer’s mouth and<br />

putting it into the computer,” says Brian<br />

Firenze, co-owner of Baltimore’s Ristorante<br />

Firenze. The upscale Italian restaurant<br />

has used TouchBistro’s tableside<br />

option since it opened three years ago.<br />

“To most of the public now, the presence<br />

of an iPad is not that bizarre. Everybody<br />

has them. In fact, just about every child<br />

that comes in has one.”<br />

He adds that his only concern was the<br />

longevity of the devices. After all, tablets<br />

were not designed to be commercialgrade,<br />

which could make them vulnerable<br />

in foodservice environments.<br />

Durable cases and a few replacement<br />

tablets over the years have assuaged<br />

those fears. While Firenze believes the<br />

tablets make the operation more efficient,<br />

they are no replacement for great<br />

customer service. All the basics—smiling,<br />

eye contact, and treating customers<br />

well—still apply.<br />

“This certainly does not replace<br />

human interaction,” he says. “The fact<br />

that they have a tablet in their hand versus<br />

a piece of paper in their hand, to me,<br />

is trivial.”<br />

The digital solution, though, did come<br />

with one drawback, Firenze says. The restaurant<br />

has avoided the pay-at-the-table<br />

option. Instead, it delivers checks in the<br />

traditional fashion; they’re printed at a<br />

station and left at a table, rather than<br />

swiped on the iPad at the table.<br />

The reason? Firenze says the tipping<br />

process becomes awkward when the<br />

server is standing right there.<br />

Still, on the whole Firenze says staff<br />

and customers alike have adapted to the<br />

technology well. So well that he can’t<br />

understand why so few sit-down restaurants<br />

have made similar moves.<br />

“I think it’s still fairly rare, and I’m surprised<br />

by that,” he says. “I think the concerns<br />

are overblown. And our experience<br />

is that we basically get zero pushback.”<br />

ziosk devices prove helpful for larger groups as guests can order drinks and appetizers without flagging down a<br />

server. the tablet’s questionnaire also provides feedback for brand leaders like chef luis sanchez at abuelo’s (right).<br />

Abuelo’s<br />

76 <strong>April</strong> <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.cOm


Finance By Jessie szAlAy<br />

The F&B Bookkeepers<br />

Accountants specializing<br />

in restaurants can<br />

help solve the financial<br />

equation.<br />

Simon BateS<br />

Compared to the more glamorous<br />

aspects of running a restaurant—<br />

experimenting with new dishes, cultivating<br />

the perfect ambiance, recruiting<br />

top talent—bookkeeping is perhaps the<br />

duty restaurateurs are most loath to do.<br />

But seeking professional expertise in the<br />

form of an accountant who specializes<br />

in the restaurant industry can make all<br />

the difference.<br />

At least that was the case for Codi<br />

Bates, a Lawrence, Kansas–based restaurateur<br />

who owns Bon Bon, a bistro that<br />

serves dishes based on her world travels,<br />

and a two-unit fast casual with her husband,<br />

Simon, called The Burger Stand.<br />

Bates works with Mize Houser &<br />

Company, a multi-location Kansas<br />

accounting firm with a specialized restaurant<br />

group. Without them, her concepts<br />

wouldn’t be the successes they<br />

are today, she says. “They’ve helped us<br />

grow from one restaurant to three. They<br />

understand our industry, which is such<br />

a wonderful one, but it changes often<br />

and you have to constantly adapt, and<br />

our accounting partnership is constantly<br />

adapting,” she adds.<br />

While working with a specialized<br />

accountant is important for restaurants<br />

of all sizes and types, it is especially<br />

essential for independent restaurants<br />

and small regional chains that are less<br />

likely to have in-house accounting teams.<br />

“The small restaurant really doesn’t<br />

For restaurateur Codi Bates (aBove) and her husBand, simon, working with an<br />

aCCounting Firm that speCializes in F&B has Been key to their suCCess.<br />

have time for the accounting function,”<br />

says Sean Dawson, CPA and tax shareholder<br />

at Mize Houser. “They’re more<br />

worried about staffing and food costs<br />

and the menu so the last thing they have<br />

time for is accounting.”<br />

If operators run the numbers in a<br />

distracted state, problems with cash<br />

flow and taxes can arise, says Kristin<br />

Wing, marketing program manager at<br />

Mize Houser. Depending on a client’s<br />

needs, restaurant accountants can handle<br />

financials like accounts payable and<br />

payroll, or they can double-check the<br />

numbers that the staff inputs. Either<br />

way, potentially mistakes can be averted.<br />

Big chains often have more resources<br />

provided by corporate. Smaller operators<br />

have to find their own service providers,<br />

like banks, investors, and lawyers, Dawson<br />

says. They also have to determine<br />

the correct legal structure for their restaurants.<br />

Helping source these professionals<br />

and answering these questions<br />

are services restaurant accountants provide<br />

that operators may not be aware of,<br />

he adds.<br />

Bates particularly loves how her restaurant<br />

accountants can find specific<br />

numbers and create projections that illuminate<br />

how the business is doing and<br />

how different situations could affect it.<br />

Nine years ago, she and Simon started<br />

The Burger Stand in the back of a bar<br />

and attempted to run the financials on<br />

their own, relying on QuickBooks. After<br />

a year, they realized an accountant was<br />

in order and, when they began working<br />

with Mize Houser, saw a huge difference.<br />

The accountants found numbers<br />

FOODNe WsFeeD.cOm april <strong>2018</strong> 77


Finance<br />

that helped them understand their food<br />

costs, labor costs, and other expenses,<br />

as well as how to become more efficient<br />

or save money. The Bateses began to<br />

understand not only what was and was<br />

not working, but why.<br />

“We didn’t really have all the information<br />

or the accounting background to be<br />

able to pick out the numbers that were<br />

the most valuable,” Bates says. “Doing a<br />

scan through QuickBooks didn’t work<br />

for us. Our accountants go above and<br />

beyond. They find numbers we didn’t<br />

even ask for but they think will be useful<br />

to us.”<br />

Most recently, the Bateses have<br />

moved toward providing a living wage<br />

and health insurance to all of their<br />

150-plus employees. Their accountants<br />

helped make the shift a reality,<br />

Bates says. They ran numbers for various<br />

scenarios, showing Bates what the<br />

financial costs and benefits of providing<br />

higher wages and insurance would<br />

be. They looked at how paying insurance<br />

costs would work if the restaurants had<br />

a bad few months. They saw which areas<br />

of the business would be relatively safe<br />

and which would be at a higher risk if<br />

the owners made the changes.<br />

Being informed enabled the Bateses<br />

to feel secure in making a decision. “We<br />

wanted to do it, but it’s hard to figure<br />

out how,” she says. “That obstacle is ‘I<br />

want to do this, but how do I do it? Is it<br />

going to cost me the business?’ Having<br />

the numbers helped us approach those<br />

questions in a neutral way.”<br />

Sometimes operators are nervous<br />

or forget to tell their accountants about<br />

changes they make, especially expensive<br />

ones. But Dawson emphasizes the<br />

importance of having honest conversations<br />

and asking questions. When restaurant<br />

accountants are involved early<br />

in a change, they can help determine<br />

the right course, whether it’s for financing<br />

new equipment, setting up payroll<br />

and POS systems, dealing with everchanging<br />

tax and payroll laws, planning<br />

for new locations, and more. Staying in<br />

touch with an accountant about these<br />

topics can help make it easier for restaurants<br />

to save money and have a painless<br />

Advertising Index<br />

Blount Fine Foods........... 51-53<br />

800-274-2526<br />

www.blountfinefoods.com<br />

Conagra Foodservice........... 9<br />

800-357-6543 www.angelamia.com<br />

Great Southern Farms .........60<br />

970-506-7442<br />

www.greatsouthernfarms.com.au<br />

Haliburton Int’l. Foods . ...... 29, 67<br />

877-980-4295 www.haliburton.net<br />

Idaho Potato Commission ....... 7<br />

www.idahopotato.com/fspro<br />

Lactalis American Group Inc. .... 13<br />

1-877-LACTALIS<br />

www.GalbaniPro.com<br />

Land ‘O Lakes . ............ insert<br />

www.landolakesfoodservice.com/<br />

trynow<br />

Libbey ........... inside front, 20<br />

www.insights.libbey.com<br />

National Restaurant<br />

Association ................62, 69<br />

www.Restaurant.org/Show<br />

Polar King ................... 73<br />

877-711-0828 www.polarking.com<br />

Polar Leasing..................71<br />

877-631-1728 www.polarleasing.com<br />

Red Gold . ................... 23<br />

sacramentotomatojuice.com/<br />

skewdats<br />

Robot Coupe................. 65<br />

800-824-1646<br />

www.robotcoupeusa.com<br />

Russet House..........back cover<br />

908-375-8566 www.russethouse.com<br />

Saltworks.....................21<br />

800-353-7258 www.seasalt.com<br />

Saputo . .............. inside back<br />

800-824-3373<br />

www.saputousafoodservice.com<br />

Simplot.......................3<br />

800-572-7783<br />

www.simplotfoods.com<br />

SmartBrew................... 19<br />

800-273-9907<br />

www.smartbrew.com/thefuture<br />

Texas Pete . .................. 10<br />

www.TexasPeteFoodservice.com/<br />

Dust<br />

Tropics . ..................... 45<br />

800-628-6449<br />

www.Tropics-beverages.com<br />

TwoWay Radio Gear ........... 15<br />

888-550-3216<br />

www.twowayradiogear.com<br />

Tyson JD Bacon . ............... 5<br />

www.tysonfoodservice.com<br />

Ultrafryer Systems..............31<br />

830-642-1502 www.ultrafryer.com<br />

SPONSORED CONTENT<br />

Hatco Corporation .............27<br />

888-814-0028<br />

www.hatcocorp.com/en/equipment/<br />

induction<br />

National Restaurant<br />

Association ...................37<br />

www.Restaurant.org/Show<br />

Advertising Inquiries<br />

Phone: 800-662-4834<br />

Eugene Drezner<br />

NatioNal SaleS Director<br />

ext. 126, Eugene@<strong>FSR</strong><strong>magazine</strong>.com<br />

Amber Dobsovic<br />

NatioNal SaleS MaNager<br />

ext. 141, Amber@<strong>FSR</strong><strong>magazine</strong>.com<br />

John Krueger<br />

NatioNal SaleS MaNager<br />

ext. 148, John@<strong>FSR</strong><strong>magazine</strong>.com<br />

78 APRil <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COm


What Do All<br />

These Highly<br />

Successful<br />

Chefs and<br />

Restaurateurs<br />

Have in<br />

Common?<br />

Simon BateS<br />

The baTeses say Mize houser has helped TheM grow To Two burger sTand<br />

locaTions and one bon bon, which serves a Mix of european and asian biTes.<br />

tax season, Dawson says.<br />

Dawson understands, however, that<br />

restaurants’ needs vary. Some operators<br />

want to have monthly talks or quarterly<br />

talks, and others want to be in contact<br />

primarily at tax season. Early conversations<br />

with an accountant should determine<br />

the kind of partnership you want<br />

to have, Dawson says.<br />

Restaurant accountants should<br />

also be flexible with a client’s choice<br />

of accounting software. The right software<br />

can allow restaurants to more easily<br />

collaborate with accountants, says<br />

Lauren Maffeo, a senior content analyst<br />

at GetApp, an online resource for<br />

information on business software. Contrary<br />

to popular belief, software does not<br />

effectively enable restaurants to handle<br />

accounting by themselves. Rather, it can<br />

provide tools to help operators manage<br />

and organize their numbers, which<br />

accountants can then analyze.<br />

Maffeo recommends that restaurants<br />

pick software that allows them to easily<br />

track inventory and purchasing so they<br />

can better manage their relationships<br />

with suppliers. “Accounts payable and<br />

receivable, global tax and compliance<br />

management, multi-currency support,<br />

and customized invoices are additional<br />

features that software shoppers should<br />

consider,” she says.<br />

Picking the right accounting software<br />

is another area in which specialized restaurant<br />

accountants can help, Maffeo<br />

says. It’s common for accountants to<br />

guide clients through the process. They<br />

might even be able to provide special<br />

pricing, Dawson adds.<br />

From software choice to meeting frequency,<br />

the restaurant-accountant relationship<br />

should be tailored to individual<br />

and industry-specific needs. It’s important<br />

for restaurateurs to advocate for<br />

their businesses and not try to fit into<br />

the molds of other business accounting,<br />

Bates says. “When your accountant<br />

understands the crazy business and can<br />

drive the numbers, it will take a lot of<br />

pressure off you. It makes the partnership<br />

invaluable.”<br />

You should know—you’re one of<br />

them. You’re all what we at <strong>FSR</strong> like<br />

to call “tablesetters.”<br />

You make things happen in<br />

the restaurant industry.<br />

You’re an innovator on your menu<br />

and in your operation.<br />

You’re watched and emulated<br />

by other restaurateurs.<br />

You lead the markets you<br />

operate in.<br />

These are characteristics that make<br />

a tablesetter. And <strong>FSR</strong> is the trusted<br />

source of information for these most<br />

influential chefs and restaurateurs<br />

in the industry. Request your free<br />

subscription today by visiting<br />

<strong>FSR</strong><strong>magazine</strong>.com/subscribe<br />

Full-Service Restaurants:<br />

Setting America’s Table<br />

FOODNEWSFEED.cOm april <strong>2018</strong> 79


Where Chefs Eat<br />

Danny Mena { BUSHWICK, NYC }<br />

Where the La Loncheria<br />

co-owner dines when he’s not<br />

serving contemporary Mexican<br />

cuisine to Brooklynites .<br />

MOMINETTE<br />

I love stopping in for breakfast, or<br />

just a glass of wine to wind down<br />

and hang out. They have a wonderful<br />

oyster selection.<br />

ARCHIE’S BAR & PIZZA<br />

Archie’s is always so solid. Their<br />

pizza and quality of service are<br />

consistently good. The cozy, nofrills<br />

atmosphere is right up my<br />

alley.<br />

983<br />

983 is an awesome hybrid of<br />

diner, bar and café. They have<br />

really good burgers and strong<br />

coffee. 983’s Classic Cob is one<br />

of my all-time favorites.<br />

CEVICHE (TOP)<br />

AND THE MEZCAL<br />

MARGARITA (RIGHT)<br />

ARE EXAMPLES OF<br />

HOW DANNY MENA<br />

(LEFT) BRINGS A<br />

NEW TWIST TO<br />

THE TRADITIONAL<br />

LONCHERIA STYLE<br />

AT HIS NEW CAFÉ.<br />

FARO<br />

As far as nice restaurants in Bushwick<br />

go, Faro is my top pick. I<br />

love to go with my wife—it’s a<br />

great date spot. They offer classic,<br />

well-made Italian food. Pastas<br />

are spot-on!<br />

Danny Mena spent time in the<br />

kitchens of Blue Hill and The<br />

Modern before opening his<br />

traditional Mexican restaurant,<br />

Hecho en Dumbo in 2007.<br />

He and his team quickly outgrew<br />

the space and relocated to lower<br />

Manhattan in 2010. Continuing to<br />

grow, Mena opened a 40-seat contemporary<br />

Mexican café in Brooklyn called La<br />

Loncheria in 2017 with co-owner Oscar<br />

León Bernal. Based on the traditional<br />

luncheonettes of Mexico, the café’s menu<br />

houses staples like tortas with marinated<br />

porchetta, tacos with grilled ribeye, and<br />

stuffed chile relleno.<br />

SALLY ROOTS<br />

This is a fun little haunt with awesome<br />

rum drinks and a smoked<br />

and grilled jerk chicken I keep<br />

coming back for. The place just<br />

calls to you and is always really<br />

hard to leave. I have spent many a<br />

late night here.<br />

KATIE BURTON<br />

80 APRIL <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COM


Convenience<br />

never tasted<br />

this good!<br />

Award winning<br />

chef-inspired<br />

gratins take your<br />

plated entrees to<br />

the next level!<br />

4 No prep, save time and labor cost<br />

4 Maintain perfect shape every time<br />

4 Long holding time - over 1 hour!<br />

4 Attractive price point<br />

4 Premium European flavor<br />

4 Non-GMO, clean label<br />

Premium Gratins available in 8 unique flavor profiles:<br />

Broccoli & Cheese | Cream & Cheese | Mushroom & Cheese<br />

Sundried Tomato & Mozzarella | Cheddar & Truffle | Chipotle & Onion<br />

Rosemary & Thyme | Sweet Potato with Cream & Cheese<br />

347 Main St., Bedminster, NJ 07921<br />

908.375.8566 | www.russethouse.com

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