FSR magazine April 2018
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NO. 53<br />
FULL-SERVICE RESTAURANTS : SETTING AMERICA’S TABLE<br />
®<br />
Cauliflower<br />
Power<br />
Getting Real<br />
About<br />
Real Estate<br />
Waste Not.<br />
Earn More.<br />
How to Host<br />
an Imported<br />
Beer Dinner<br />
Feast in the Middle East<br />
In a region with a<br />
storied past, Middle<br />
Eastern cuisine carries<br />
the eclectic history<br />
of its varied origins.
Constellation dinnerware, Equity flatware<br />
so you can set tables<br />
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Serve the freshest culinary experiences<br />
with Libbey’s brightest-ever white porcelain,<br />
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Libbey, it features advanced Microban ®<br />
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It’s one more way we are Serving Experience <br />
to support your success by combining<br />
inspired tableware, trend knowledge and<br />
expertise into innovative, insights-driven<br />
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Discover insights that help bring<br />
your vision of success to life.<br />
© 2017 Libbey Inc. Microban ® is a registered trademark of Microban ® Products Company.
<strong>April</strong> <strong>2018</strong> No. 53<br />
®<br />
38<br />
46<br />
Fresh takes on<br />
middle eastern<br />
at zahav in<br />
philadelphia<br />
are just one way<br />
the cuisine is<br />
making a splash.<br />
Middle eastern cuisine: cook n solo restaurants / chef coMpeitions: World food chaMpionships / real estate: rockit ranch<br />
54<br />
Traversing<br />
46 Civilization’s<br />
Breadbasket<br />
By maggie Hennessy<br />
From Egypt to Lebanon to Iran, you’ll<br />
find overlap in dishes like tabbouleh,<br />
pilaf, and hummus, but each dish differs<br />
heavily by region.<br />
Contents<br />
38 Ready. Set.<br />
Compete.<br />
By Laura ZoLman KirK<br />
How chef competitions can benefit<br />
both chef and industry alike.<br />
54 Getting Real<br />
About Real Estate<br />
By amanda BaLtaZar<br />
How to choose a new site in a new<br />
city or state goes beyond the old<br />
adage, ‘location, location, location.’<br />
cheFs & ingredients<br />
17 Eats, International<br />
Gert Kopera is elevating Chinese<br />
food through his role with<br />
international restaurant group<br />
Hakkasan.<br />
liquid intelligence<br />
28 Sips from the<br />
Mediterranean Sea<br />
Unique flavors, textures, and aromas<br />
arrive on menus influenced by<br />
Mediterranean culture.<br />
FOODNEWSFEED.cOm april <strong>2018</strong> 1
Contents<br />
11<br />
FoodNewsfeed.com <strong>April</strong> <strong>2018</strong> No. 53<br />
25<br />
33<br />
First Course<br />
11 Cauliflower Power<br />
When California Pizza Kitchen<br />
announces its newest crust is made of<br />
cauliflower—that’s when you know<br />
a once fringe ingredient has gone<br />
mainstream.<br />
12 Waste Not. Earn More.<br />
A handy infographic explaining how<br />
reducing waste can send lost revenue<br />
back to your bottom line.<br />
CheFs & ingredients<br />
22 Moves Toward Middle<br />
Eastern<br />
Bright, simple, and wholesome<br />
ingredients from Israeli, Greek, and<br />
Middle Eastern influences shine<br />
through on modern menus.<br />
25 Reimagined, with<br />
Respect to Roots<br />
When developing authentic menus,<br />
staying true to a specific cuisine while<br />
also flexing creativity is easier said<br />
than done.<br />
Liquid inteLLigenCe<br />
33 For Sake’s Sake<br />
Now is the time to explore sake.<br />
35 How to Host an Imported<br />
Beer Dinner<br />
Create a menu that marries global<br />
cuisine with imported beers.<br />
BaCk oF house<br />
72 An Oklahoma City Star<br />
on the Rise<br />
PERSPECTIVES At just 33, restaurateur<br />
Rachel Cope has taken OKC by storm<br />
with five concepts.<br />
75 A More Human Touch<br />
of Tech<br />
FINANCE Streamlined operations<br />
through new tech never come at the<br />
expense of customer care.<br />
77 The F&B Bookkeepers<br />
SERVICE How specialized accountants<br />
can make all the difference.<br />
80 Where Chefs Eat<br />
DANNY MENA The co-owner of new<br />
Bushwick traditional Mexican café<br />
La Loncheria lists his neighborhood<br />
haunts.<br />
CORRECTION: The photo of kevin Burke in<br />
the rising stars feature on page 56 of the<br />
march issue was taken by Taylor made<br />
Photography.<br />
Also in this issue 4 highlights from Foodnewsfeed.com 6 Brand stories 8 editor’s Welcome 78 Advertising index<br />
<strong>FSR</strong> is a trademark of Journalistic, Inc. and the content of this <strong>magazine</strong> is copyright © <strong>2018</strong> Journalistic, Inc. All rights reserved. Printed in USA. The opinions of columnists are their own. Publication of their writing<br />
does not imply endorsement by Journalistic, Inc. <strong>FSR</strong> <strong>magazine</strong> (ISSN 2325-2154) is published monthly by Journalistic, Inc., 101 Europa Drive, Suite 150, Chapel Hill, NC 27517-2380. Periodicals postage paid at Chapel<br />
Hill, NC, and at additional entry points. SUBSCRIPTIONS: (800) 662-4834, www.FoodNewsfeed.com/subscribe. <strong>FSR</strong> is provided without charge upon request to individuals residing in the U.S. meeting subscription<br />
criteria as set forth by the publisher. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to <strong>FSR</strong>, 101 Europa Drive, Suite 150, Chapel Hill, NC 27517-2380. No part of this <strong>magazine</strong> may be reproduced in any fashion without the<br />
expressed written consent of Journalistic, Inc.<br />
ThinksTock / Lori Luo, Ani rAmen house / hAikArA sAke / ThinksTock<br />
2 APriL <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COm
Fries, reimagined.<br />
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Offer a new shape on an old favorite. High-margin<br />
SIDEWINDERS Fries turn up the front-of-house<br />
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SIDEWINDERS Fries are destined for signature<br />
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Exclusively<br />
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Learn more at simplotfoods.com/sidewinders.<br />
© <strong>2018</strong> J. R. Simplot Company SIDEWINDERS is a trademark of the J.R. Simplot Company. Our unique SIDEWINDERS Fries are proprietary and patented under one or more patents and<br />
pending patent applications. See www.simplotfoods.com/patents for more details.
E-NEWSLETTERS<br />
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e-newsletters beyond our<br />
flagship FS Insider:<br />
WHAT’S ON A guide to the best in<br />
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RES-TECH Our latest content<br />
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BEVERAGE NEWS & TRENDS Our latest<br />
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FOODNEWSFEED.COM<br />
BIG PORTIONS AND A<br />
DIVERSE MENU HAVE<br />
MADE CODY’S A HIT IN THE<br />
SUNSHINE STATE? UP NEXT:<br />
THE ENTIRE SOUTHEAST.<br />
GETTING SOCIAL<br />
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CODY’S ROADHOUSE<br />
Cody’s Original Roadhouse Preps for Florida Takeover<br />
The 16-unit brand, founded in 1994, is ready to franchise its way across the<br />
Southeast, with a goal of 100 restaurants in the next five years. But first, Cody’s will<br />
grow in the Sunshine State, a market as diverse and challenging as they come.<br />
FoodNewsfeed.com/Codys-FL-Takeover<br />
5 SECRETS FROM<br />
DC’S RESTAURANT<br />
WUNDERKIND<br />
At 25, Carlie Steiner<br />
became co-owner of Himitsu<br />
in Washington, D.C.<br />
Since the restaurant first<br />
opened in 2017, lines have<br />
formed for a spot in one<br />
of only 24 seats. Steiner<br />
shares her tricks of the<br />
trade.<br />
FoodNewsfeed.com/<br />
Wunderkind-Secrets<br />
21 OF AMERICA’S MOST<br />
LEGENDARY RESTAURANTS<br />
These iconic institutions<br />
have dominated the<br />
country’s dining scene<br />
for decades—sometimes<br />
even centuries. Great<br />
food and outstanding<br />
service never go out of<br />
style. Check out which<br />
legendary eateries made<br />
the list.<br />
FoodNewsfeed.com/<br />
Legendary-21<br />
THE A–Z OF BUILDING<br />
RESTAURANT LOYALTY<br />
Many companies concentrate<br />
on the importance of<br />
engaging with the millennial<br />
generation, but currently<br />
there are four generations<br />
with spending<br />
power to consider. Is your<br />
restaurant ready to rise up<br />
and meet the changing<br />
demand?<br />
FoodNewsfeed.com/<br />
Generational-Loyalty<br />
PLUS FREE SUBSCRIPTIONS / SIPS APPEAL / HEALTHY EATING / LEADER PERSPECTIVES<br />
4 APRIL <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COM
The Brand<br />
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Learn more: tysonfoodservice.com<br />
©<strong>2018</strong> Tyson Foods, Inc. Trademarks and registered trademarks are owned by Tyson Foods, Inc. or its subsidiaries, or used under license.
APRIL<br />
®<br />
Brand Stories inside <strong>FSR</strong><br />
IN PRINT<br />
37 Meet Me at NRA Show<br />
FABIO VIVIANI This celebrity chef and restaurateur<br />
explains why he has been attending NRA Show for<br />
over a decade.<br />
{ SPONSORED BY THE NATIONAL RESTAURANT ASSOCIATION }<br />
TRENDING ON THE MENU<br />
63 Chef Tools<br />
As pressure on restaurants grows, high-tech equipment<br />
helps chefs and their kitchens keep up with a<br />
growing list of demands.<br />
Online<br />
Go to FoodNewsfeed.com/Sponsored-Content<br />
MANAGEMENT<br />
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FOOD EDITOR<br />
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6 APRIL <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COM
Idaho ® Potato Pairings<br />
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Overloaded Vegan<br />
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12 Idaho® Potatoes<br />
6 C Vegan Nacho Cheese Sauce<br />
3 C Spicy Corn<br />
3 C Black Beans<br />
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Welcome<br />
Magic in the Middle East<br />
In AprIl of 2012, I took an early birthday trip, boarded a flight around midnight<br />
at Dulles International Airport, and was eating falafel on the cobbled<br />
streets of Istanbul by the next evening. It was love at first bite—not that I<br />
hadn’t had falafel before. The first time was in Amsterdam, actually, and<br />
I literally cried tears of joy. But there was something different that I loved<br />
about the falafel in Turkey, and something else I loved even more around<br />
every corner.<br />
After the falafel came the fasulye, stewed white beans in tomatoes with<br />
bread or rice to soak up the broth. Next it was gooey, cheesy pide, a football-shaped<br />
flatbread with an egg in the middle that every Middle Eastern<br />
and Mediterranean culture has a version of (most well-known, perhaps, is<br />
Georgian khachapuri). At crowded hookah bars, I was delighted by small<br />
bowls of dried chickpeas served the way Americans serve beer nuts. And at<br />
seemingly every restaurant, I was thrilled by fresh, simple salads.<br />
Maybe it was what the French call terroir—the way the soil made the<br />
vegetables taste, the way the air smelled, the way the breeze tousled my<br />
hair, and how crisp that Efes pilsner tasted on tap. But to me, it was magic.<br />
Fast-forward three years and I made a pilgrimage to the Holy Land to<br />
visit a dear Israeli friend whose mother served us a full brunch in her apartment<br />
facing the Mediterranean Sea. The shakshuka tasted better than any<br />
I’d ever had, but maybe that was because it was imbued with the sense of<br />
place.<br />
The table at Ima’s was bursting—salads, smoked fish, fresh cheese,<br />
creamy dips, flaky pastries, seeded breads, and three types of olives, at<br />
least. Among the pastries was something that reminded me of a breakfast<br />
I’d had in Turkey. It was paper-thin phyllo dough wrapped around cheese<br />
and meat filling and baked until golden and flaky. In Turkey, it’s called<br />
börek and is rolled like a cigar. In Israel, they serve bourekas, and the<br />
phyllo is layered and cut into puffed, stuffed squares.<br />
While I love bread and pastries (who doesn’t?), the city of Tel Aviv had<br />
something my heart truly desires: fresh juice. Across from the Airbnb<br />
where I stayed was a stand overflowing with bright orange and yellow citrus,<br />
crisp green leaves, blushing pink apples, earthy ginger roots, and deep<br />
purple beets. In the week I was there I maxed out the stand’s punch card<br />
and earned myself a free smoothie. It was paradise.<br />
Both trips gave me tremendous insight into food and life. It was in Israel,<br />
in fact, that I began plotting my move to Los Angeles to scout the food<br />
scene. Upon arrival in the City of Angels in October of 2016, a friend took<br />
me to a local Armenian institution: Zankou Chicken. I dipped an unusually<br />
soft falafel into the creamiest, dreamiest tahini and cut the richness with a<br />
beet-pickled turnip. Yep, there was some magic in there.<br />
Laura D’Alessandro<br />
Editor<br />
LauraD@Fsr<strong>magazine</strong>.com<br />
Fsrmag<br />
@Fsr<strong>magazine</strong><br />
On the Cover<br />
To my joy, the popularity of Mediterranean/Middle<br />
eastern cuisine—and specifically<br />
Israeli cuisine in recent years—<br />
has skyrocketed in the u.s. i’ve been<br />
lucky enough to find myself talking<br />
shakshuka with some of the top chefs in<br />
the country. but each cuisine, like each<br />
person who loves it, has its own story.<br />
Take a look into the cuisine’s collective<br />
storied past on Page 46, zoom in on the<br />
region’s ingredients on Page 22, and get<br />
a creative take on cocktails on Page 28.<br />
You might just find a place for some<br />
creamy, dreamy tahini on your menu yet,<br />
if you haven’t already.<br />
Laura: Libby McGowen / ThinksTock<br />
8 apriL <strong>2018</strong> FoodNEWSFEEd.com
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First course<br />
thinkstock<br />
Versatile cauliflower is<br />
making its way into<br />
menus by masquerading<br />
as pizza and burgers.<br />
Cauliflower Power<br />
By Laura D’aLessanDro<br />
What is a<br />
menu without<br />
cauliflower<br />
these days?<br />
When California Pizza KitChen announces<br />
its newest crust is made of cauliflower—<br />
that’s when you know. the beloved lowcarb,<br />
gluten-free ingredient has gone from<br />
fringe trend to mainstream menu star.<br />
the national pizza chain announced<br />
in late January that its newest nationwide<br />
rollout would be the introduction of<br />
a cauliflower pizza crust. CPK also touted<br />
the crust as a “unique source of vegetable<br />
fuel.”<br />
“Rich in nutrients and low in carbs, cauliflower<br />
is a powerhouse ingredient that<br />
continues to show its versatility and popu-<br />
FOODNEWSFEED.com APril <strong>2018</strong> 11
First Course<br />
larity as the star—not the side—of the<br />
plate,” says Brian Sullivan, senior vice<br />
president of culinary innovation for CPK.<br />
And, surprisingly, that’s what diners<br />
want more of these days: vegetables,<br />
or vegetables disguised or dressed up<br />
in unusual ways.<br />
Pizza crust is just one way restaurants<br />
big and small are integrating the<br />
cruciferous chameleon into their menus.<br />
Hard Rock Cafe used cauliflower in a<br />
burger on its first-ever meatless menu.<br />
Major food vendor US Foods released<br />
spicy battered cauliflower as a product<br />
in late summer of 2017.<br />
But for those watching the industry<br />
and its menus, this change has been a<br />
long time coming. Just ask Liz Vaknin,<br />
cofounder and experiential marketer<br />
at New York–based Our Name Is Farm.<br />
Vaknin and cofounder Shelley Golan<br />
work with local food growers as well as<br />
the consumer markets those farmers<br />
serve to bridge the gap.<br />
“I grew up noticing the versatility of<br />
this relatively cheap, hearty, and gluten-free<br />
vegetable that is very high in<br />
nutritional value if eaten fresh,” Vaknin<br />
says. “My family is of Jewish, Middle<br />
Eastern, and North African background,<br />
so growing up I ate cauliflower in<br />
many different versions: in a beef stew<br />
braised with turmeric, paprika, white<br />
pepper, and garlic; fried or roasted with<br />
tahini or yogurt and sumac; stuffed with<br />
seasoned lamb kefta and braised in a<br />
spiced tomato sauce; in root vegetable<br />
pickles preserved with turmeric and<br />
chilies; the list is never-ending.”<br />
It’s quite a contrast to sneaking it<br />
into pizza crusts or mac and cheese,<br />
but that’s not a bad thing. As Vaknin<br />
puts it, everyone else is just catching<br />
up. Familiar iterations with cauliflower<br />
hidden inside could be the beginning.<br />
“Americans are using cauliflower in<br />
applications that are already familiar<br />
to them, to make the vegetable more<br />
appealing, like in pizza, buffalo style, or<br />
mac and cheese,” Vaknin says. “Once<br />
they feel comfortable with the vegetable<br />
in general … I believe they’ll find<br />
more creative ways to prepare and consume<br />
it, too.”<br />
Waste Not. Earn More.<br />
It’s an issue everyone in the industry is talking (and worrying)<br />
about, including 1,300 chefs who reported that food waste<br />
reduction was a top priority in the National Restaurant<br />
Association’s annual report.<br />
Food costs<br />
represent<br />
up to<br />
35%<br />
of a<br />
restaurant’s<br />
gross<br />
income.<br />
CONSUMERS ARE CONCERNED, TOO<br />
A study by Unilever revealed:<br />
72%<br />
OF U.S.<br />
DINERS<br />
CARE<br />
about how<br />
restaurants<br />
handle<br />
food waste.<br />
$8<br />
COST SAVINGS<br />
COSTS<br />
$16<br />
BILLION<br />
ANNUALLY<br />
72 %<br />
Diners<br />
Care<br />
SOURCE: REFED’S <strong>2018</strong> RESTAURANT FOOD WASTE ACTION GUIDE<br />
52.4<br />
MILLION<br />
tons of food waste<br />
is sent to landfills in the<br />
U.S. each year, and<br />
7.3 MILLION<br />
tons of that comes from<br />
full-service restaurants.<br />
It costs the industry<br />
$16 billion annually.<br />
47 %<br />
would be<br />
willing to<br />
SPEND<br />
MORE<br />
to eat at a<br />
restaurant with a<br />
waste reduction<br />
program.<br />
THINK THE OUTLOOK IS DISMAL?<br />
There’s something you can do.<br />
For every dollar a restaurant<br />
spends on food waste<br />
reduction, it can realize<br />
$8 of cost savings.<br />
In total, restaurants could<br />
achieve an additional<br />
$620 MILLION IN PROFIT<br />
potential per year by adopting<br />
waste prevention strategies.<br />
12 APRIL <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COM
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First Course<br />
Next-Generation Staff<br />
Millennials make up about 40 percent of the workforce this year. Here are five expert tips for getting<br />
this generation into your open positions—and keeping them.<br />
ISTOCK<br />
THE BEST<br />
BRAND WINS<br />
Millennials are<br />
a brand-mindful<br />
generation—<br />
they want to<br />
work for a brand<br />
with a strong<br />
story behind it.<br />
APPLICATIONS<br />
FOR SHORT<br />
ATTENTION<br />
SPANS<br />
Today’s top<br />
talent needs a<br />
simple, seamless,<br />
and quick application<br />
process.<br />
BENEFITS<br />
FOR BRINGING<br />
FRIENDS<br />
Referrals<br />
remain the primary<br />
way to<br />
find dedicated<br />
staff; make sure<br />
employees are<br />
rewarded for it.<br />
SCHOOL HOUSES<br />
(STILL) ROCK<br />
Working with<br />
learning institutions<br />
to create<br />
curriculum can<br />
give you first pick<br />
of top graduates.<br />
RECRUIT THE<br />
RIGHT RECRUITER<br />
Millennials<br />
make up the<br />
largest segment<br />
of the workforce.<br />
Recruiters<br />
need to know<br />
who they are<br />
and what kind of<br />
jobs they want.<br />
SOURCE: THE<br />
NATIONAL RESTAURANT<br />
ASSOCIATION’S 2017<br />
STATE OF THE INDUSTRY<br />
REPORT AND THE<br />
NATIONAL RESTAURANT<br />
ASSOCIATION’S HUMAN<br />
RESOURCES & RISK AND<br />
SAFETY CONFERENCE<br />
Revolving Door<br />
With great power comes great responsibility—but it<br />
turns out that responsibility is what keeps employees<br />
around. Turnover is high in the restaurant industry, but<br />
SOME POSITIONS HAVE MORE STAYING POWER THAN OTHERS,<br />
and position level is a better predictor than pay.<br />
RESTAURANT<br />
MANAGERS<br />
BARTENDERS<br />
& BAR STAFF<br />
23% 25%<br />
BUSSERS,<br />
DISHWASHERS,<br />
RUNNERS<br />
34%<br />
DATA COURTESY OF UPSERVE / THINKSTOCK<br />
14 APRIL <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COM
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IngredIents<br />
Middle<br />
Eastern and<br />
Mediterranean<br />
page 22<br />
trendIng<br />
Developing<br />
authentic<br />
menus<br />
page 25<br />
Chefs &<br />
Ingredients<br />
haKKasan’s<br />
crispy ducK<br />
salad<br />
Eats,<br />
International<br />
Hakkasan<br />
By AmelIA levIn<br />
Gert Kopera acts to elevate<br />
Chinese food in his role with<br />
international restaurant<br />
group Hakkasan.<br />
gert Kopera, executive vice president of global restaurants at the<br />
international restaurant group Hakkasan Group, believes in changing<br />
global perceptions around Chinese food.<br />
“Chinese food in China can actually be quite expensive, not at all like<br />
the comfort food or fast food many are accustomed to seeing. The smokiness<br />
of the wok, the crunch and play with textures, the various smells<br />
FOODNEWSFEED.COm april <strong>2018</strong> 17
Chefs & IngredI ents ProfI le<br />
and shochu cocktails—it’s about the<br />
whole experience of Hakkasan that we<br />
are trying to package and continue to<br />
develop, step by step,” Kopera says of<br />
the Hakkasan restaurant brand, which<br />
is managed by the Hakkasan Group. “It’s<br />
a distinctly driven process, and we’re<br />
excited to see the next generation of elevated<br />
Chinese cuisine.”<br />
After opening its original Hakkasan<br />
restaurant location in London in 2001,<br />
Hakkasan Group has grown to represent<br />
17 different brands with 41 locations<br />
total, 21 of which are under direct Hakkasan<br />
Group management in the U.S.<br />
Focused on high-end, modern Cantonese<br />
cuisine, the four Hakkasan restaurants<br />
in the U.S. have long been<br />
known for popular dishes like Black<br />
Truffle Roasted Duck, Roasted Silver<br />
Cod with Champagne and Chinese<br />
Honey Sauce, Stir Fry Black Pepper Ribeye<br />
Beef with Merlot, and an assortment<br />
of creative dim sum offerings. The<br />
U.S. Hakkasan restaurants are located<br />
in New York, San Francisco, Las Vegas,<br />
and Miami while another seven are in<br />
locations like London and Doha, Qatar,<br />
with two more set to open in Indonesia<br />
and Saudi Arabia in <strong>2018</strong>.<br />
Kopera, who is based in Las Vegas,<br />
leans on his 30 years of experience in<br />
the international hospitality industry<br />
Gert<br />
koPera<br />
“We are seeing a lot more vegetables come into<br />
play in Chinese cuisine and a more sophisticated<br />
play on textures with lighter sauces.”<br />
yauatcha’S<br />
edaMaMe<br />
truFFle<br />
duMPlinG.<br />
hakkaSan’S<br />
Grilled chilean<br />
SeaBaSS.<br />
Stir-Fry<br />
Black PePPer<br />
riB eye<br />
BeeF with<br />
Merlot FroM<br />
hakkaSan.<br />
Hakkasan<br />
18 april <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.cOm
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to guide his work at Hakkasan Group.<br />
Before joining the group in 2017, he<br />
served at the COO for restaurant group<br />
d.ream and senior vice president of food<br />
and beverage for in hospitality company<br />
Jumeirah Group. He also spent<br />
15 years with Rosewood Hotels and 12<br />
years with Hilton International in various<br />
positions with an integral role in<br />
food and beverage development.<br />
At the Hakkasan Group, Kopera<br />
oversees a team of VPs that is both horizontally<br />
and vertically structured. For<br />
example, he oversees the VP of Operations<br />
U.K., who handles all restaurants<br />
across all brands in Europe, but he also<br />
works with the brand directors for the<br />
various restaurant concepts including<br />
Hakkasan, Ling Ling—Cantonese<br />
restaurants in Greece, Morocco, and<br />
Norway—and Searsucker—American<br />
restaurants in Texas, California and<br />
Nevada .<br />
To develop menus for a restaurant<br />
group of such scale, Kopera works<br />
closely with a culinary development<br />
team that includes Michelin-starred<br />
chefs Tong Chee Hwee and Ho Chee<br />
Boon, as well as the brand’s chefs at<br />
each outpost to drive new dish ideas.<br />
“We are aiming to build a culinary<br />
team for our development in Asia, but<br />
for now we have our team in London,”<br />
says Kopera, who travels regularly to<br />
the various Hakkasan locations in the<br />
U.S. and abroad to check in and assist<br />
with menu development.<br />
Naturally, because neither Kopera<br />
nor the head chefs can be everywhere<br />
at once, they rely on feedback from<br />
customers as well as special advisory<br />
boards, which are made up of seasoned<br />
culinary and hospitality professionals<br />
on Kopera’s contact list.<br />
“If the soup is too peppery or the skin<br />
of the dim sum is too thick or needs<br />
color, these are things we will report<br />
back to the culinary team, and they<br />
will work on their dishes,” Kopera says.<br />
When putting together new dishes<br />
or special menus, Hakkasan Group will<br />
first have its advisory board members<br />
come into the restaurant to test out<br />
dishes before they are tweaked and put<br />
© 2017 Libbey Inc.<br />
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it comes to bringing in other local influences from<br />
different parts of the world.”<br />
on the menu, or not.<br />
Trends, customer feedback (shared<br />
especially through social media), and<br />
changing consumer patterns drive new<br />
menu development. “We are seeing a<br />
lot more vegetables come into play in<br />
Chinese cuisine and a more sophisticated<br />
play on textures with lighter<br />
sauces,” Kopera says. “We have been<br />
refining dishes such that the plate<br />
might look similar, but the honey sauce<br />
is definitely lighter with less sugar and<br />
there is more of an emphasis on nonmeat<br />
ingredients and textures.”<br />
Hakkasan Group events like worldwide<br />
chef competitions also help spur<br />
new ideas for menus. For example, last<br />
October, five chefs competed in Shanghai<br />
to go on to compete against winners<br />
from Hakkasan Group teams in<br />
Doha, Qatar, Abu Dhabi, U.A.E. and<br />
Dubai, U.A.E.<br />
Some of the dishes from that event,<br />
such as a curry dumpling that was<br />
developed in India to cater to a highly<br />
<br />
vegetarian consumer base, have since<br />
led to new dim sum options at Yauatcha,<br />
a dim sum and chinese restaurant<br />
brand with locations in Texas and<br />
Hawaii, as well as India, the U.K., and<br />
Saudi Arabia.<br />
“Now that we’re seeing the rise of<br />
more vegetarian dishes in general, we<br />
are bringing some of those ideas from<br />
the India locations to the U.S.,” Kopera<br />
says. “It’s easy to be more experimental<br />
with dim sum when it comes to bringing<br />
in other local influences from different<br />
parts of the world.”<br />
As region-specific Chinese food<br />
fever grows, including interest in the<br />
modernized Cantonese variety Hakkasan<br />
restaurants serves, Kopera sees<br />
the Hakkasan Group’s role as necessary<br />
to guiding the narrative away<br />
from the “cheap” comfort food image.<br />
“I think Hakkasan continues to serve<br />
as a benchmark for high-end Chinese<br />
food, similar to what Nobu did for Japanese<br />
food,” he says.<br />
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CHEFS & INGREDIENTS INGREDIENTS<br />
Moves Toward Middle Eastern<br />
and Mediterranean<br />
BY AMELIA LEVIN As more restaurants and chefs rally around these bright, simple, and wholesome<br />
cuisines, the crossovers with Israeli, Greek, and Middle Eastern influences shine through on<br />
modern menus. Here are a few ingredients trending at the moment.<br />
Tahini<br />
Chef Wyatt Lash<br />
The Commoner<br />
PITTSBURGH<br />
No longer reserved for<br />
making hummus, chefs<br />
are enjoying tahini on or<br />
blended with just about<br />
anything. When it comes<br />
to vegetables, the sesame<br />
seed paste lends an umamirich,<br />
savory note and thickening<br />
function when used<br />
in dressings and dips. Executive<br />
Chef Wyatt Lash at<br />
Hotel Monaco’s The Commoner<br />
in Pittsburgh uses<br />
tahini in a puree made<br />
with charred eggplant and<br />
24-hour brined, breaded,<br />
and charred cauliflower. This<br />
forms the base for a more<br />
composed dish with more<br />
breaded cauliflower pieces<br />
that are fried, tossed in a<br />
harissa buffalo sauce, and<br />
served with crispy chickpeas,<br />
coconut flakes, and a cooling<br />
yogurt sauce.<br />
THINKSTOCK<br />
22 APRIL <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COM
ChefS & i ngredientS i ngredientS<br />
Chef Heidi Krahling<br />
Insalata’s<br />
San anSelmo, California<br />
More chefs are reaching for<br />
pomegranates—from the<br />
seeds, juice, and even the<br />
molasses made from it—<br />
for that bright pop of tang,<br />
adding acidity in marinades,<br />
salads, sauces, and more. At<br />
Insalata’s in San Anselmo,<br />
California, chef and coowner<br />
Heidi Krahling uses<br />
pomegranate molasses in<br />
a one-hour marinade for<br />
lamb skewers, combining<br />
the ingredient with lemon<br />
juice, cumin, salt, and pepper<br />
before broiling or grilling<br />
the lamb loin pieces.<br />
She serves the skewers with<br />
a persimmon chutney made<br />
by simmering the fruit with a<br />
little brown sugar, cider vinegar,<br />
lemons, golden raisins,<br />
and a mix of spices that<br />
includes ginger, cinnamon<br />
sticks, cumin, cardamom,<br />
coriander, star anise, and<br />
whole cloves.<br />
Pomegranate<br />
Molasses<br />
ALSo try<br />
Za’atar<br />
Labneh<br />
Zhoug<br />
Sumac<br />
Canyon Ranch in<br />
Tucson, Arizona mixes<br />
pomegranate molasses<br />
with this spice blend<br />
of sesame seeds,<br />
marjoram, and sumac to<br />
marinate lamb loin.<br />
Serve with: a salad of<br />
spinach, tomatoes,<br />
crumbled feta, and<br />
dried figs.<br />
Much like a burrata<br />
appetizer, Ēma in<br />
Chicago offers this<br />
tangy Middle Eastern<br />
yogurt cheese as a<br />
refreshing starter.<br />
Serve with: toasted<br />
marcona almonds,<br />
roasted grapes, burnt<br />
honey, and toast points.<br />
Shaya in New Orleans<br />
adds this Yemen<br />
condiment of herbs,<br />
chillies, coriander,<br />
cardamom and lemon<br />
juice to its Jerusalem<br />
Mixed Grill sandwich.<br />
Serve with: chicken<br />
livers and hearts, veal<br />
sweetbreads, onions,<br />
pita, and tahini.<br />
At Bread & Wine in<br />
Chicago, this spice<br />
is used as a bright,<br />
slightly sour flavoring<br />
for honey yogurt sauce.<br />
Serve with: torn mint<br />
leaves to garnish a<br />
blend of cooked lentils,<br />
carrots, celery, onions,<br />
beans, and beets.<br />
THInKSToCK<br />
24 AprIl <strong>2018</strong> FooDNEWSFEED.com
Trending Chefs & i ngredienT s<br />
Reimagined, with<br />
Respect to Roots<br />
Lori Luo, Ani rAmen House<br />
By Mandy ellis<br />
When developing authentic menus, staying true to a specific<br />
cuisine while also flexing creativity is easier said than done.<br />
ani raMen<br />
house’s MazeMen<br />
brothless raMen.<br />
Mingling coMfort flavors with Modernity, culturally inspired menus<br />
have the power to offer diners flashbacks to childhood and travel adventures,<br />
as well as fresh experiences. Today’s full-service restaurants with authentic cuisines<br />
are leaning into to this role, blending new trends with old roots to serve<br />
up authentic, yet approachable bites.<br />
Chefs, then, are aiming to educate consumers’ taste buds by walking the fine<br />
line between staying relevant and paying respect to time-honored ingredients<br />
of specific cuisines. Finding that balance<br />
and trying to add your own creativity to<br />
the mix, however, is not an easy task.<br />
“You used to give your interpretation<br />
and customers accepted it, but if diners<br />
want to know what’s in ramen or how<br />
to make it, they access it now via the<br />
internet,” says Luck Sarabhayavanija,<br />
founder and owner of Ani Ramen House<br />
in Montclair and Jersey City, New Jersey.<br />
“There’s zero room for errors, and if<br />
you make a mistake, you’ll hear about it.”<br />
Sarabhayavanija reaches into his personal<br />
experience backpack to mix conventional<br />
tastes and current trends to<br />
spark his own slants on recipes. Ani<br />
Ramen House’s short rib ramen combines<br />
chicken and beef broth along<br />
with braised short rib for an updated<br />
dish, while its salt-based ramen that<br />
includes yuzu citrus notes is based on a<br />
restaurant experience Sarabhayavanija<br />
had traveling in Tokyo. “We went to this<br />
amazing ramen house, Afuri. They were<br />
using yuzu in ramen. I was skeptical;<br />
when I think ramen, I want a spicy bowl<br />
or something on the salty or earthy side.<br />
I don’t think of something citrus-y. [But]<br />
it worked so well,” he says. He is thrilled<br />
with the new menu addition back in New<br />
Jersey. “Every sip of broth, you get the<br />
salt, umami, and chicken broth, but it<br />
ends with a citrus note that feels like it<br />
cleanses your palate; it’s crazy,” he says.<br />
Beverly Gannon, owner and chef of<br />
Hali’imaile General Store in Makawao,<br />
Hawaii, combines memories from her<br />
childhood in Texas with Hawaiian<br />
regional cuisine for a modern tostada:<br />
duck marinated in Chinese five spice,<br />
plus jicama, cilantro, ginger chili dressing,<br />
and a crispy tortilla with hoisin<br />
sauce. “It’s taking what I knew as<br />
a tostada and creating something that<br />
evolved into what I call Mex-awaiian,”<br />
she says.<br />
Pass the<br />
Plate<br />
Shareable dishes plus appetizers are thriving because customers want<br />
to sample many menu items, Sarabhayavanija says. Tables of eight to<br />
10 diners slurp on a shared ramen bowl and split small plates to fill their<br />
desire for variety.<br />
FOODNEWSFEED.com ApriL <strong>2018</strong> 25
Chefs & IngredI ents t rendI ng<br />
Pixabay/Jonathan Valencia<br />
Cara Stadler, chef/owner of Brunswick,<br />
Maine’s Tao Yuan Restaurant, says<br />
sometimes designing a menu is about<br />
finding refreshing ways to remind customers<br />
of their own experiences. “What<br />
makes ethnic food amazing is the rich<br />
cultural identification, especially for<br />
those who have experienced the countries<br />
through travel or childhood,” she<br />
says. Stadler’s Malatang soup, a sweet<br />
broth and poached vegetables topped<br />
with spicy numbing sauce, exemplifies<br />
this, as this street food hails from a very<br />
specific Chinese region. “We put classic<br />
dishes on the menu, things from parts of<br />
China you’d have to visit to understand,”<br />
she says. For those who know the region,<br />
the Malatang soup brings nostalgia.<br />
Chefs agree that traveling and trying<br />
other chef’s cuisines helps one grasp the<br />
true elements of global dishes. But once<br />
chefs have got a good grip, they can’t<br />
chicken<br />
bao<br />
Like dumplings, bao buns are<br />
growing in popularity as a vehicle<br />
for bold flavors. Both Tao Yuan and<br />
Ani Ramen House utilize the buns<br />
as delicious blank templates for<br />
showcasing intriguing flavor profiles.<br />
be afraid to push the boundaries. “Play<br />
around. If Indian is trending and you’re<br />
doing Chinese, try an Indian-inspired<br />
dumpling,” Gannon says. “How can you<br />
make it something diners are hearing<br />
about, but with your own twist?”<br />
Be mindful, however; isolating dishes<br />
from popular flavors and ingredients is a<br />
recipe for failure. “Be open-minded, and<br />
don’t be afraid of change or ingredients<br />
you don’t recognize,” says Ben Diaz, executive<br />
chef of Los Angeles’ Mexican restaurant<br />
Toca Madera. “Embrace [trends]<br />
yet stay true to the food.”<br />
Paella at<br />
the lazy goat.<br />
The Bolder the Better<br />
With Mediterranean and indian food trending, guests are being<br />
exposed to more spicier bites. Mediterranean cuisine is moving<br />
toward Spain, Morocco, and tunisia, says craig Kuhns, of Greenville,<br />
South carolina’s the Lazy goat. he’s seeing more use of regional<br />
spice mixtures like ras el hanout and baharat. and with indian cuisine<br />
now in the mainstream, customers are on board to try more flavors<br />
within the culinary canon, says navjot arora of oLd Monk in<br />
new york city. “indian food is seeing a renaissance.”<br />
FARM<br />
FResH<br />
Following a larger shift in<br />
the food world, global<br />
cuisines are also trending<br />
more vegan, vegetarian,<br />
and organic, using clean,<br />
simple ingredients. “We’re<br />
waking up to demands for<br />
all-natural, local, organic<br />
products,” says Arora, who<br />
serves dishes like Jhaal Moori<br />
with wild rice and wasabi peas<br />
for distinct, healthier flavors.<br />
old monk’s<br />
Wild Rice<br />
Jhall mooRi.<br />
table 301 reStaurant GrouP<br />
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26 aPril <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.cOm
SponS ored content<br />
How Kitchen<br />
Equipment<br />
Makes Employee<br />
Turnover Less<br />
Painful<br />
Edward NuNN dEscribEs how<br />
rEstauraNts caN usE tEchNology to<br />
miNimizE thE impacts of staff churN.<br />
EmployEE turnovEr hurts.<br />
Not only does it cost restaurants<br />
an average of $5,864<br />
to replace each employee,<br />
according to Cornell’s Center<br />
for Hospitality Research,<br />
but it also strains restaurant<br />
operations when a team is<br />
short staffed. These shortages<br />
impact food quality,<br />
customer experience, and<br />
even the morale of other<br />
employees.<br />
Using the smarter<br />
equipment, however, can<br />
boost efficiency, help restaurants<br />
cope when staff<br />
is short, and improve<br />
employee morale to prevent<br />
further turnover. Edward<br />
Nunn, Business Development<br />
Manager at Hatco<br />
Corporation, explains how.<br />
hoW can restaurants<br />
reduce the impact<br />
of turnover on<br />
operations?<br />
By definition, efficiency<br />
is the ratio of outputs to<br />
inputs. The way to improve<br />
efficiency is “doing more<br />
Edward Nunn is a Business<br />
Development Manager<br />
for the Hatco Corporation.<br />
He joined the company<br />
two years ago, bringing<br />
with him over 10 years’<br />
experience specific to light<br />
cooking equipment and<br />
food holding technology.<br />
He has worked in the North<br />
American foodservice<br />
equipment industry for<br />
nearly two decades.<br />
with less.” In foodservice,<br />
this means having a<br />
laser-like focus on labor,<br />
food, and utility costs compared<br />
to revenue. Technology<br />
is playing a key part<br />
in addressing all of these,<br />
including kiosks, mobile<br />
ordering, at-table PDQ<br />
payment systems, and<br />
improved ingredient formulations,<br />
packaging, and<br />
preparation to address food<br />
waste.<br />
What can restaurants<br />
do to improve<br />
efficiency?<br />
Self service, be it “grab and<br />
go” or drive-up collection<br />
is growing in popularity<br />
across many foodservice<br />
formats. Combined with<br />
in-advance mobile ordering,<br />
this reduces labor for<br />
serving. However, quality<br />
and perceived quality<br />
remain vital. Gen Y and the<br />
upcoming Gen Z are used<br />
to improved food quality<br />
standards, having grown<br />
up with everything from<br />
organics to better burgers.<br />
To maintain quality, yet<br />
deliver faster speed of service,<br />
better holding equipment<br />
and faster cooking<br />
methods are required. For<br />
example, speed ovens—like<br />
those from Ovention—use<br />
forced hot air and efficient<br />
food loading to dramatically<br />
cut cooking times and<br />
maintain a high quality<br />
standard. Precise, user-configurable<br />
preset programs<br />
also maintain consistent<br />
cooking results. These can<br />
be found in Hatco’s new<br />
IRNG series of induction<br />
ranges or Hatco’s TQ3<br />
toaster, which uses profiles<br />
for different bread products.<br />
Even Hatco’s drawer warmers<br />
now feature a touchscreen<br />
option with the ability<br />
to hold different draws at<br />
different temperatures and<br />
set a hold time for each.<br />
Another way to improve<br />
efficiency is to employ<br />
multi-tasking equipment,<br />
such as Hatco’s HCWBI<br />
series of hot/cold wells and<br />
HCSBF hot/cold shelves.<br />
Both hot and cold food can<br />
be stored or merchandised<br />
from the same footprint<br />
depending on the daypart<br />
or season.<br />
hoW can automated<br />
cooking technology<br />
make training neW<br />
staff easier?<br />
Programmable equipment is<br />
an obvious means to reducing<br />
or refocusing training<br />
needs. Most commercial<br />
food operations prepare<br />
and present the same thing<br />
over-and-over, and consistency<br />
is a key to brand loyalty.<br />
Checking the “reliable<br />
and consistent cooking”<br />
box, frees up time to spend<br />
on training for sanitation or<br />
customer service. Equally<br />
important, when staff does<br />
turn over, training a new<br />
team member to press the<br />
right button is easier than<br />
having to train for several<br />
complicated culinary operations.<br />
hoW can equipment<br />
help maintain<br />
customer experience<br />
despite turnover?<br />
In a saturated foodservice<br />
market, with more choice<br />
than ever in history, brand<br />
is the thing that matters<br />
most. The incoming generation<br />
of consumers is keen<br />
to identify with brands and<br />
remains very loyal. Underpinning<br />
a brand is consistency<br />
and predictability.<br />
Any equipment, procedures<br />
or technologies that supports<br />
that should be high on<br />
the list of considerations. l<br />
FOODNEWSFEED.cOm <strong>April</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 27
Wine<br />
For Sake’s<br />
Sake<br />
page 33<br />
Beer<br />
How to Host<br />
an Imported<br />
Beer Dinner<br />
page 35<br />
Liquid<br />
Intelligence<br />
Sips from the<br />
Mediterranean<br />
bybLos<br />
restaurant’s<br />
mediterraneaninfLuenced<br />
oLd<br />
fashioned.<br />
GreTa ryBuS<br />
By Barney Wolf<br />
Cocktails inspired<br />
from Greek, Italian,<br />
Levantine, and<br />
North African cuisine<br />
stack up on today’s<br />
bar menus.<br />
LabeLing something Mediterranean<br />
can be a bit simplistic. The Mediterranean<br />
Sea Basin encompasses<br />
parts of three continents, numerous<br />
nations, and various cultures, topographies,<br />
and agriculture.<br />
“The Mediterranean may have a single<br />
meaning, such as geographic, but<br />
in culinary terms it is so much more,”<br />
says Juan Coronado, brand ambassador<br />
for Bacardi. “There are unique<br />
cultures that have [Mediterranean] flavors,<br />
textures, and arom as.”<br />
Similar ingredients show up in<br />
cooking across the region, especially<br />
olive oil. So do fruits like grapes and<br />
28 april <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COm
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LIQUID INTELLIGENCE SPIRITS<br />
WORLDLY LIBATIONS<br />
EXPERTS SHARE WHAT THEY LIKE TO PAIR WITH A RANGE OF CUISINES.<br />
CUISINE: PERUVIAN<br />
PAIR IT WITH: pisco-based cocktails,<br />
White Bordeaux, Pinot Noir, and Malbec.<br />
“Our most recommended alcohol is pisco, specifically<br />
the varietal called Quebranta, for our pisco<br />
sours, pisco punch (frozen or on the rocks), and a<br />
few more craft cocktails. With cebiches we recommend<br />
pairing with Château Ducasse’s Bordeaux<br />
Blanc. For our Pollo a la Brasa dish, we recommend<br />
Montinore Estate’s Pinot Noir. And for our<br />
Churrasco cooked over a charcoal grill, we love the<br />
Gauchezco Reserva’s Malbec.<br />
MARIBEL RIVERO, EXECUTIVE CHEF<br />
YUYO | AUSTIN, TEXAS<br />
CUISINE: INDIAN<br />
PAIR IT WITH: aromatic white wines, rich red wines,<br />
and cocktails that mimic standout flavors.<br />
KARMA MODERN<br />
INDIAN’S GINGER<br />
BLOSSOM COCKTAIL.<br />
CUISINE: JAMAICAN<br />
PAIR IT WITH: sweet cocktails, white wines, and<br />
Red Stripe beer.<br />
“A lot of the Jamaican dishes we are serving are<br />
spicy so we’re pairing cocktails that are a little on<br />
the sweeter scide to balance out the heat. Crisp<br />
Loire Valley white wines are also great, and you<br />
can’t go wrong with an ice-cold Red Stripe beer.”<br />
AARON PAUL, BEVERAGE DIRECTOR FOR CALIFORNIA’S<br />
ALTA GROUP<br />
KAYA RESTAURANT | SAN FRANCISCO<br />
CUISINE: CUBAN<br />
PAIR IT WITH: a mojito.<br />
“Our beverage program prides itself [for having] the<br />
best mojitos in town, [like] our Chusma Fina, which<br />
is a play on our classic mojito.”<br />
“Indian cuisine is well-known for its intense aromatics<br />
and, at times, its heat. With that in mind, more<br />
aromatic white wines such as Gewürztraminer and<br />
more rich gamy/spicy reds such as Carignan and<br />
Syrah are solid go-to wine pairings. As for cocktail<br />
pairings, I first try to identify the most standout flavors<br />
of the dish, then go through the ingredients<br />
that either possess the same flavors or flavors that<br />
share affinity with those in the dish being enjoyed.”<br />
JAMES LANFRANCHI, LEAD BARTENDER + WINE STEWARD<br />
KARMA MODERN INDIAN | WASHINGTON, D.C.<br />
CUISINE: INDONESIAN<br />
PAIR IT WITH: crisp, light lagers; bright, fruity and<br />
acid-driven white wines; and anything built off the<br />
refreshing sour or highball model.<br />
“While a pairing with an IPA or robust red isn’t<br />
impossible, the cuisine’s use of complex flavors<br />
and, of course, spicy chillies, can make it pretty<br />
challenging, as tannins and high-alcohol contents<br />
have a tendency to accentuate the chili’s heat.”<br />
IVAN LICATA, GENERAL MANAGER<br />
ESTEFAN KITCHEN | MIAMI<br />
TAYLOR VAUGHT, GENERAL MANAGER<br />
SELAMAT PAGI | BROOKLYN, NEW YORK<br />
JOY ASICO<br />
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Liquid i nteLLigence SPi R itS<br />
SiPS A PPe AL<br />
Spirit Works<br />
Distillery’s<br />
Sloe Gin<br />
Ashby Marshall, coowner<br />
of Spirit Works<br />
Distillery with husband<br />
Timo Marshall, started<br />
crafting sloe gin to pay<br />
homage to Timo’s family<br />
in England, who have<br />
been producing the<br />
spirit by mixing sloe<br />
berries, sugar, and gin<br />
for generations. Spirit<br />
Works’ take starts with<br />
onsite-produced gin,<br />
added with botanicals,<br />
citrus, and about two<br />
pounds of sloe berries<br />
per bottle. “Notes of<br />
cranberry and pomegranate<br />
swirl through<br />
the palate,” Ashby says<br />
of the finished product,<br />
which she enjoys as<br />
a replacement for vermouth<br />
in manhattans or<br />
negronis.<br />
SebaStopol<br />
California<br />
lemons as well as herbs like parsley, and spices<br />
such as saffron and cinnamon. All can play a<br />
role in creating Mediterranean cocktails, as<br />
do anise-flavored spirits like Greek ouzo, arak<br />
from the Levant, and raki in Turkey.<br />
Grown in Greece<br />
When Americans think Mediterranean cuisine,<br />
they often focus on Greek food, partly<br />
because so many ingredients in that cooking<br />
style are found across the region. The socalled<br />
“Mediterranean diet” is also based on<br />
a traditional Greek diet.<br />
At New York City’s Molyvos restaurant,<br />
general manager and wine director Kamal<br />
Kouiri tries to implement the same ingredients<br />
in Greek food—the raw materials, the<br />
herbs and spices—on the restaurant’s beverage<br />
menu. That extends to Greek spirits,<br />
including the anise-flavored spirit ouzo and<br />
a brandy called tsipoura made from pomace,<br />
the leftover fruit solids in juice or oil. Creating<br />
its own Greek-influenced infusions to<br />
American cocktails, Molyvos concocts offerings<br />
like the Wild Strawberry Mojito, in which<br />
mastiha—a mastic resin–flavored liqueur—<br />
and mint with strawberry are infused with<br />
rum, or the Cretan Mule, a version of a Moscow<br />
Mule using Roots Herb Spirit, ginger root<br />
soda, vodka, and fresh lime juice.<br />
The concept of employing similar ingredients<br />
in food and cocktails is important at<br />
Kipos Greek Taverna in Chapel Hill, North<br />
Carolina. “You want fresh ingredients—herbs,<br />
juices—in craft-made Mediterranean cuisine,”<br />
says Will Bingham, Kipos’ bar and beverage<br />
director. Cocktails made with Greek spirits<br />
and liqueurs dot the menu. They include The<br />
Minotaur, which mixes Skinos mastiha and<br />
lemon, and the Mykonos Mule, which uses<br />
fig-infused Haraki brandy. Bingham also uses<br />
ouzo, but those cocktails need other strong<br />
flavors to tone down the anise, he says.<br />
Italian influence<br />
Much of Italy touches the Mediterranean<br />
Sea, and Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhouse<br />
features Italian liqueurs, fruit, and herbs in<br />
many cocktails at its nine units in the U.S.<br />
“We have a lot of Italian ingredients around<br />
that we like to use,” says Jennifer Schubert,<br />
general manager of the Manhattan location.<br />
The Corretto, for instance, is Davio’s take on<br />
the traditional caffè corretto featuring not<br />
only grappa (an Italian pomace brandy) and<br />
espresso, but also limoncello. Italian negroni<br />
cocktails, employing gin, vermouth, and<br />
Campari liqueur, are also big sellers.<br />
All about the olive oil<br />
Although olives may be a well-known garnish<br />
for martinis, olive oil is not something<br />
many think about for a cocktail. But Bacardi’s<br />
Coronado included the favored oil years ago<br />
when he was the cocktail innovator at José<br />
Andrés’ ThinkFoodGroup. He infused vodka<br />
with olive oil to create an eponymous martini<br />
for the Mediterranean restaurant Zaytinya<br />
in Washington, D.C. The oil is heated to<br />
95 degrees Fahrenheit and added to vodka,<br />
mixed, and frozen for 24 hours. The oil is then<br />
scraped away, leaving the vodka with its flavor<br />
and aroma. He then added dry and blanc<br />
vermouth, verjus, and ice.<br />
Mediterranean Exploration Company in<br />
Portland, Oregon, which looks to the Eastern<br />
Mediterranean region Levant for inspiration,<br />
uses an olive oil-washed gin in its Azores<br />
High cocktail, which also has vermouth, tonic,<br />
and lime. “You can take any cocktail and<br />
give it a Mediterranean feel by incorporating<br />
the right ingredients,” says Jamal Hassan,<br />
head bartender. The Olive Branch cocktail,<br />
for instance, is basically a martini but with<br />
za’atar bitters. His take on a daiquiri includes<br />
sumac. Hassan also helped create Mediterranean<br />
Exploration’s own arak, a Levantine<br />
anise spirit, that is in the Arak Colada cocktail<br />
with rum, coconut, pineapple, lime, nutmeg,<br />
and crushed ice. “Arak and anise classically<br />
work with anything with citrus,” he says.<br />
Notes of North Africa<br />
Miami’s Byblos restaurant features a largely<br />
Levantine- and North African-influenced<br />
menu, and the cocktails make good use of<br />
fresh juices, says Jorge Islas, bar manager and<br />
master mixologist. “We try to be unique and<br />
implement spices and freshness in any cocktail,”<br />
he says. For the signature Marrakesh<br />
Garden cocktail, cold-pressed cucumber and<br />
celery juice, mint, and lime are combined to<br />
go with gin or rum, then finished with nigella<br />
seeds. Byblos’ take on an Old Fashioned<br />
utilizes Turkish coffee in a syrup mixed with<br />
bourbon, rum, and bitters. Islas adds cardamom<br />
to the syrup, which makes the cocktail<br />
“like no one else’s,” he says.<br />
32 <strong>April</strong> <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.cOm
l iquid i ntelligenC e W ine<br />
people interacting with customers, their<br />
influence has been huge.”<br />
One such sommelier is Alex Trendler<br />
of MIFUNE New York in New York City.<br />
At the Japanese fine-dining restaurant,<br />
he pours around 20 varieties of sake,<br />
selling it in equal numbers with wine<br />
and educating eager customers along<br />
the way. “People want to experience sake,<br />
and they want to learn way more than<br />
just the name of it,” he says. “I love that.”<br />
Haikara Sake<br />
For Sake’s Sake<br />
By Carly Boers<br />
The popularity of<br />
this traditional<br />
Japanese alcohol<br />
is increasing;<br />
now is the time<br />
to explore sake.<br />
A cherry blossom<br />
cocktAil mAde<br />
with hAikArA sAke.<br />
Sake iS officially booming in the U.S.,<br />
says John Gauntner, president of the Sake Education<br />
Council (sec)—an organization created to<br />
promote sake education outside Japan. He has<br />
studied the drink now for 30 years.<br />
Gauntner says Americans’ sake consumption<br />
has been on a steady incline since around 2000,<br />
climbing around 10 percent annually to where it<br />
sits today—more than 1.5 million gallons were<br />
consumed in 2017. Sure, increased interest in Japanese<br />
cuisine, namely sushi, is a driving force, but<br />
Gauntner says a handful of factors play into the<br />
current state of boom.<br />
Lately, perhaps the biggest driver is the way<br />
in which wine professionals have embraced sake.<br />
“First sake started popping up in New York City<br />
wine shops, and then in L.A. Then sommeliers<br />
began offering it,” he says. “Since these are the<br />
Sake 101<br />
While enthusiasts like Gauntner and<br />
Trendler do their part to educate drinkers,<br />
the Japanese beverage is still largely<br />
misunderstood in the U.S. For starters,<br />
though it shares characteristics with<br />
both, it’s neither beer nor wine. The<br />
brewing process is closer to the former,<br />
but, unlike beer, sake is brewed solely<br />
from rice and without the presence of<br />
enzymes.<br />
Gauntner says wine comparisons<br />
stem from the similar alcohol content—<br />
sake has about 15 to 16 percent; wine,<br />
roughly 10 to 14 percent—as well as the<br />
manner in which flavors are assessed,<br />
and the fact that both are typically<br />
enjoyed with food. Also like wine, sake is<br />
categorized. Instead of grouping by varietals<br />
of grapes, however, sake is broken<br />
down in terms of how much each grain<br />
of sake brewing rice (of which there are<br />
roughly 70 types) is milled.<br />
Sake also varies greatly by region,<br />
chiefly due to climate. The cooler weather<br />
of Northern Japan means its sake is<br />
fermented and stored at lower temperatures,<br />
and the end product is cleaner<br />
than that of its Western counterparts,<br />
according to Gauntner. Regional food<br />
also plays a role. For instance, brewers in<br />
oceanside locations often produce light,<br />
crisp sakes to match the area’s cuisine.<br />
Emerging from sushi’s shadow<br />
Sake is no longer just a means for washing<br />
down sushi. In restaurants, it has<br />
blossomed into a menu star in its own<br />
right: Bartenders now craft cocktails<br />
that spotlight the versatile beverage, and<br />
sommeliers like Trendler look beyond<br />
wine to offer comprehensive sake lists<br />
FOODNEWSFEED.cOm april <strong>2018</strong> 33
LIQUID INTELLIGENCE WINE<br />
SIPS APPEAL<br />
SakéOne’s<br />
g fifty sake<br />
A subtle, delicate sake<br />
with plenty of body,<br />
g fifty is the product<br />
of Coastal Mountain<br />
Range Oregon water<br />
and Sacramento Valley<br />
rice. Served chilled, it is<br />
medium-dry on the palate<br />
and brings about<br />
notes of nectarine,<br />
green apple, and mint.<br />
Thinking beyond the<br />
traditional Japanese<br />
dish pairing, SakéOne’s<br />
Jessie Sheeran recommends<br />
enjoying<br />
g fifty with grilled<br />
meats, pasta, and hard,<br />
aged cheeses. “Mac<br />
‘n’ cheese and cheeseburgers<br />
are absolutely<br />
perfect,” she says.<br />
FOREST GROVE<br />
OREGON<br />
and sake pairings. At MIFUNE, cocktail producer<br />
Shingo Gokan offers the Seven Samurai,<br />
composed of rye whiskey, aged sake, East<br />
India sake, bitters, and smoked cinnamon.<br />
Trendler, a wine industry veteran who had<br />
never worked with sake before MIFUNE, says<br />
the drink has broadened his horizons exponentially.<br />
“We have a lot of cool sakes that<br />
represent a wide range of flavors,” he says. He<br />
plays off the restaurant’s ever-evolving seasonal<br />
cuisine to create pairings, seeking out<br />
both contrasting and complementing tastes.<br />
In the case of the latter, he pours earthy Manzairaku<br />
alongside a scallop with mushroom<br />
consommé.<br />
“Manzairaku tastes just like shiitake mushrooms,<br />
so that pairing was a no-brainer for<br />
me,” he says. Sake also gives him the opportunity<br />
to play up the menu’s bold umami flavors<br />
with varietals he says mimic the taste<br />
of banana bread and bubble gum. “It sounds<br />
crazy until you try it,” he says.<br />
Increased accessibility<br />
“Five years ago, Japanese fine dining was<br />
the upper echelon of luxury,” Trendler says.<br />
“Lately it’s become more accessible—and so<br />
has sake,” he adds.<br />
That trend toward approachability is also<br />
thanks in part to makers like Umenoyado<br />
Brewery. The fifth-generation brewer based<br />
out of Nara, Japan recently worked with<br />
New York-based Spirits Consulting Group<br />
to develop Haikara, a sake created specifically<br />
for the U.S. market. Spirits Consulting<br />
Group CEO Susan Mooney says the citrusy<br />
flavor combines notes of yuzu and white<br />
peach and is “familiar to the American palate.”<br />
Even the name Haikara, which translates<br />
to “high collar,” hearkens back to the<br />
clothing style of the first Westerners living<br />
in Japan and “speaks to the east-meetswest<br />
feel we wanted to create,” Mooney says.<br />
“We were mindful to make a product that’s<br />
authentic and rooted in tradition, but also<br />
really accessible,” she says.<br />
Trendler shares Mooney’s sentiment,<br />
offering this advice to sake novices: “Don’t<br />
worry about the labels or menu descriptions,<br />
and don’t be intimidated by new language or<br />
classification systems. Sake should just be<br />
inviting and fun.”<br />
GENSHU SAKE IS UNDILUTED, MEANING THERE IS NO SECONDARY WATER ADDED TO MODIFY<br />
THE ALCOHOL LEVEL. THIS VARIETY, THEN, OFFERS A HEARTIER FLAVOR AND BODY.<br />
THINKSTOCK<br />
34 APRIL <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COM
Liquid i nteLLigence Beer<br />
ThinksTock<br />
How to Host an Imported<br />
Beer Dinner<br />
By Liz Barrett Foster<br />
Create a menu<br />
that marries<br />
globally<br />
inspired fare<br />
and authentic,<br />
imported beer<br />
for a theme<br />
night guests will<br />
be talking about<br />
for weeks.<br />
There’s no denying that Americans love<br />
beer, and what they are really loving right now<br />
are craft and import beers. In 2016’s $107.6 billion<br />
beer market, craft beer sales grew 6.2 percent<br />
and import beer sales grew 6.8 percent, according<br />
to a report from the Brewers Association. With<br />
imported beer’s growth now outpacing craft beer’s,<br />
it only makes sense to take advantage of the trend.<br />
Hosting a themed dinner night that pairs ethnic<br />
food with its respective beer can attract guests<br />
hungry for new experiences, new foods, and new<br />
beers.<br />
Choose a theme<br />
If you run a restaurant that’s a natural fit for<br />
imported beers—such as Mexican, Japanese, German,<br />
etc.—half the work is already done. Choose a<br />
theme that makes sense with the restaurant’s<br />
brand, but also allows for a menu<br />
that features several country-specific<br />
courses that pair with that country’s<br />
imported beer.<br />
“For the most part, depending on the<br />
type of food the restaurant specializes<br />
in, beers from Belgium, Germany and<br />
the U.K. are the easiest beers to pair and<br />
sell,” says Morgan Herzog, owner of The<br />
Beer Junction, a Seattle-based beer bar<br />
and bottle shop where Belgian and German<br />
imports are most popular. “A wide<br />
variety of imports from all these countries<br />
are readily available in most parts<br />
of the United States, and they pair well<br />
with food from their respective coun-<br />
FOODNEWSFEED.COm <strong>April</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 35
Liquid i nteLLigence Beer<br />
SipS AppeAL<br />
Kona Brewing<br />
Company’s<br />
Kanaha<br />
Blonde Ale<br />
Only recently launched<br />
to be available nationally,<br />
say aloha to this<br />
bright beer made with<br />
mango fruit and exhibiting<br />
lightly toasted malt<br />
character. Transport<br />
guests to the breezy<br />
beaches of Maui by<br />
pairing it—and maybe<br />
a few other Hawaiianbrewed<br />
beers over a<br />
few courses—with a<br />
luau-themed spread of<br />
grilled fish, salads, poke,<br />
roast pig, and tropical<br />
fruits.<br />
4.2% ABV<br />
Honolulu, HAwAii<br />
Mura<br />
tries,” he says.<br />
Ember & Vine Woodfire Oven and Social<br />
Bar, located inside the DoubleTree by Hilton<br />
in Mars, Pennsylvania, planned a European<br />
beer dinner in February, pairing five<br />
courses of imported beer at a ticket price of<br />
$60 per person with menu items such as spätzle<br />
paired with the Bavarian Ayinger Brauweisse,<br />
gravlax paired with the Belgian Orval<br />
Trappist ale, and prime rib and Yorkshire pudding<br />
paired with Sam Smith’s Oatmeal Stout<br />
brewed in North Yorkshire, United Kingdom.<br />
“We’ve done several craft brewery dinners<br />
but wanted to try a format that featured multiple<br />
labels instead of from the same brewery,”<br />
says Harry W. Siebert, director of restaurant<br />
operations for Ember & Vine. “I thought it<br />
would be interesting to add a geographical<br />
and multi-cultural component; the response<br />
has been great.”<br />
At Mura, a sushi restaurant and bar in<br />
Raleigh, North Carolina, bar manager Greg<br />
Keely says the restaurant’s Japanese beer<br />
dinner last October sold out the 70 tickets<br />
on offer. “We hosted a seven-course meal<br />
and offered five beers,” Keely says of the<br />
Hitachino Nest Beer Dinner. Tickets were<br />
Fitting to its concept, sushi restaurant mura hosted a<br />
japanese beer dinner in october.<br />
$75 and included pairings such as a dish of<br />
panko-fried smoked oysters, wasabi hollandaise,<br />
pickled cucumber-daikon salad, and<br />
red onion dust paired with Hitachino Nest<br />
Red Rice ale from Kiuchi Brewery in Japan.<br />
Planning makes perfect<br />
With a theme set, it is time to talk with the<br />
chef and beer distributor. “I’d suggest working<br />
with a local distributor that you already<br />
have a professional relationship with to assist<br />
with the marketing and planning phase,”<br />
Siebert says.<br />
Keely says the same, adding, “It is absolutely<br />
critical to find a responsive, excited,<br />
and engaging partner.” Keely’s distributor,<br />
who was just as enthusiastic about the event<br />
as he was, helped in providing unique glassware<br />
for the dinner and planning the dinner’s<br />
menu by offering pairing advice. “We worked<br />
with our executive kitchen team to formulate<br />
a meal that would be both satisfying and<br />
unique,” Keely says. “From there, we sat with<br />
our brewery partners to ensure the beer pairings<br />
were not only smart, but well-executed.”<br />
Siebert advises operators to keep course<br />
numbers and guest counts in check. “Keep<br />
the guest count under 50 so that it still has<br />
an intimate appeal and have enough staff to<br />
deliver each course in a timely fashion.” Beer<br />
dinners can lead to a lot of food and drink<br />
consumption, so Siebert says it’s important<br />
to keep the timing at a decent pace. “I<br />
feel that four to five courses is perfect,” he<br />
says. “That will give value, but not overload<br />
your guests. Portion size needs to be that<br />
of a small plate, so that,<br />
by the third course, people<br />
are still awake. The<br />
pour size should be about<br />
5 ounces. This will also<br />
keep the crowd engaged<br />
and not over-served by<br />
the last course.”<br />
Scoring a ‘sold out’<br />
The final step is selling<br />
tickets to the beer dinner.<br />
For an event ultimately<br />
about social engagement,<br />
this is where social media<br />
comes in handy. “If someone<br />
‘likes’ the ad, then<br />
someone on property<br />
should reach out and try to get the reservation<br />
booked,” Siebert says. “It’s important to<br />
fill the seats because most people attending<br />
these events are in it for the social interaction.<br />
If you’re lacking reservations, fill the<br />
seats with clients or friends and family. These<br />
[dinners] are not usually huge profit makers,<br />
but more of an opportunity to gain exposure<br />
for your restaurant.”<br />
36 april <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COm
SPONSORED CONTENT<br />
COURTESY OF FABIO VIVIANI<br />
Meet Me at NRA Show<br />
Fabio Viviani, celebrity chef and restaurateur<br />
BY PEGGY CAROUTHERS<br />
For Fabio Viviani, a celebrity chef,<br />
former Top Chef contestant, cook<br />
book author, and restaurateur, the<br />
annual NRA Show in Chicago is all about<br />
networking. “This is a business based on<br />
people, and in order to connect with<br />
people you have to be where they are,”<br />
Viviani says. “The NRA show is a great<br />
source of connection. You can meet<br />
vendors, employees, business partners,<br />
and competitors.”<br />
As an established chef, Viviani—<br />
who has attended NRA Show for over<br />
a decade—says that he has built many<br />
relationships there and that the Show<br />
provides him with opportunities to<br />
catch up with his peers and gain a competitive<br />
advantage by seeing what they<br />
are doing. When he was just getting<br />
started in the business, however, the<br />
Show provided him with a valuable<br />
platform on which to build his business.<br />
“When I had one restaurant, I used the<br />
Show to make connections to get better<br />
pricing and discounts,” he says.<br />
Vendors are a big attraction at the<br />
Show for both established chefs and<br />
those just starting their careers. Viviani<br />
says he likes to browse booths to<br />
find new products. “NRA Show is like<br />
Candy Land for a kid,” he says. “I can walk<br />
around for hours. Last year I found a better<br />
system to manage my inventory that<br />
I love, and I wouldn’t be aware of it if I<br />
wasn’t at NRA Show.”<br />
For first-time attendees, though, Viviani<br />
suggests planning specific booths to<br />
visit based on whatever challenges they<br />
have in their businesses. “Go through<br />
the directory and see what interests you,”<br />
he says. “Do you need help with inventory<br />
or beverage and alcohol? Do you<br />
need new menus? What are your problems<br />
in the restaurant today? If you can<br />
figure out what you need, there will be<br />
vendors who can help you with that at<br />
NRA Show. Just go hunt them down.”<br />
Viviani is a self-proclaimed people<br />
person and he says that giving cooking<br />
demonstrations is one of his favorite<br />
parts of the Show. “Demonstrations let<br />
folks break away from business for a second<br />
and sit down to watch somebody<br />
on stage making food,” he says. “The<br />
interactions can get very personal, too.”<br />
Another big reason Viviani says restaurant<br />
professionals should attend NRA<br />
Show is to learn new techniques and<br />
enhance existing skills. “It doesn’t matter<br />
how good you are or how big you<br />
are, there is always someone out there<br />
doing something better than you,” Viviani<br />
says. “It’s a very good way to learn,<br />
stay current, and be humble. Though<br />
Viviani is well-established in the industry,<br />
he says NRA Show provides numerous<br />
opportunities for both experienced and<br />
new chefs. “NRA show is a great opportunity<br />
for people who are starting their<br />
journeys in the culinary business to get<br />
lots of insight and become knowledgeable,”<br />
he says. “It’s a great organization,<br />
and I’m very happy to be part of it.”<br />
FOODNEWSFEED.COM APRIL <strong>2018</strong> 37
Ready.<br />
Set.<br />
Compete.<br />
BY LAURA ZOLMAN KIRK<br />
Everyone wants to win a competition,<br />
and the opportunity to unite<br />
chefs and spectators over craft<br />
and cooking can build a global<br />
community. Here’s how competitions<br />
benefit both chef and industry alike.<br />
CHEF ADRIAN CRUZ<br />
FROM MCALLEN, TEXAS,<br />
PLATES HIS ENTRY DISH<br />
FOR THE OPENING<br />
ROUND OF THE STEAK<br />
CATEGORY AT THE WORLD<br />
FOOD CHAMPIONSHIPS.<br />
WORLD FOOD CHAMPIONSHIPS<br />
38 APRIL <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COM
MARLA MARTINEZ<br />
PARTICIPATES<br />
IN THE USBG’S<br />
LUCID COCKTAIL<br />
CLASSIQUE IN<br />
AUSTIN, TEXAS.<br />
‘‘<br />
Wget<br />
JESSICA FRADONO PHOTOGRAPHY<br />
e’ve been here before,” says Aaron Gregory Smith, executive director of the<br />
United States Bartenders’ Guild (USBG), which puts on about 10 competitions<br />
annually. Instead of calling the rise in competitions in the food and beverage<br />
industries a “boom,” Smith calls it “more of a roller coaster.”<br />
The number of competitions hosted around the country goes up, then people<br />
burned out on them. Then they come back into fashion. “From my personal<br />
FOODNEWSFEED.COM APRIL <strong>2018</strong> 39
COMPETITIONS<br />
‘‘<br />
Chef Mathew Peters, the<br />
first u.s. Chef to win BoCuse<br />
d’or, PrePares a Meat Platter<br />
at the 2017 CoMPetition.<br />
Competing in this competition has been lifechanging<br />
and eye-opening in so many ways,”<br />
Chef Philip Tessier<br />
Chef PhiliP tessier, teaM usa CoaCh and BoCuse d’or 2015 silver winner,<br />
with Chef Mathew Peters, BoCuse d’or 2017 winner.<br />
experience being in hospitality for 20<br />
years, I think this is probably my third<br />
or fourth upswing in the number of competitions,”<br />
Smith says. And, while he<br />
doesn’t think competitions are necessary<br />
for the success of the industry—“I think<br />
that the hospitality industry is competitive<br />
enough on its own,” Smith says—<br />
he does consider competitions helpful<br />
in supporting chefs and bartenders on<br />
an individual basis, acting as a tool for<br />
professional development.<br />
The industry, it seems, shares Smith’s<br />
sentiment. Beyond the drive to win, participants<br />
are flocking to food and beverage<br />
competitions as a way to build their<br />
networks, skill sets, and profiles. Many<br />
view their experience inside the ring as<br />
so integral to their development as professionals<br />
that they are now shepherding<br />
younger chefs and mixologists into<br />
arena. Organizers and sponsors, too, are<br />
benefiting from the action in the opportunity<br />
it provides to buddy up with these<br />
driven professionals.<br />
The rise of competitions is certainly<br />
shining a spotlight on the hospitality<br />
industry, and, in doing so, hopefully propelling<br />
the industry forward.<br />
Competitors’ perks<br />
Since the vast majority of hospitality<br />
employers aren’t able to focus on professional<br />
development in the day-to-day,<br />
USBG’s competitions hope to fill the participants’<br />
need by offering competitors<br />
thorough feedback from the judges. Each<br />
bartender receives a detailed breakdown<br />
of where they fell at different stages of<br />
the competition, as well as written feedback<br />
on their strengths and where to<br />
consider improvement.<br />
“I hear from competitors year after<br />
year, since we started that process, that<br />
that is one of the most valuable experiences<br />
that they gain from participating<br />
in competitions. The hospitality industry<br />
managers don’t always have time to give<br />
thoughtful, comprehensive evaluations<br />
to their employees,” Smith says. “We see<br />
people returning to programs year after<br />
year to demonstrate their improvement<br />
and learn more about what they can do<br />
to get better.”<br />
Bocuse d’or / david escalante (top)<br />
40 april <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.cOm
COMPETITIONS<br />
Chef Lance Nitahara, a lecturing<br />
instructor at the Culinary Institute<br />
of America, shares Smith’s sentiment.<br />
As a frequent competitor in American<br />
Culinary Federation (ACF) competitions<br />
over the last decade—as well as<br />
a mentor for students preparing for<br />
competitions through organizations<br />
like ProStart and SkillsUSA—Nitahara<br />
sees competitions as vital to a young<br />
chef ’s education.<br />
“I believe that everyone should compete<br />
at least once,” he says. “It wasn’t an<br />
experience that I necessarily wanted to<br />
have until I actually had it, but it really<br />
opened things up for me.”<br />
His experience as a competitor has<br />
kept him organized and his technical<br />
skills sharp, Nitahara says. “When<br />
I work with students who compete,<br />
oftentimes there is only one gold and<br />
only one silver. [When] they aren’t successful,<br />
I see them really beat themselves<br />
up about it. I tell them that the<br />
competitions that I’ve learned the<br />
most from are the ones that I didn’t<br />
win.” Reflection in those instances, he<br />
argues, helps chefs grow and learn.<br />
Chef Philip Tessier, who won the silver<br />
medal at the international Bocuse<br />
d’Or competition in 2015 and coached<br />
Team USA to gold in 2017, appreciates<br />
his competition experience for the<br />
chance it was to build a diverse network<br />
of professionals in his field, as<br />
well as push him to enhance his skills.<br />
“When you’re in a professional restaurant,<br />
you’re working at the stove,<br />
you’re constantly refining your skills<br />
and you’re working, ideally, amongst a<br />
great team, but it’s one team, one chef,<br />
that you’re working under. With the<br />
Bocuse d’Or, I saw the opportunity to<br />
work with multiple chefs across the<br />
country. Why would I not want to be<br />
in the center of this opportunity?” he<br />
says.<br />
To inspire other young chefs to<br />
embark on such a unique opportunity<br />
as representing the USA on a<br />
national stage at Bocuse d’Or, Tessier<br />
has written a book, Chasing Bocuse:<br />
America’s Journey to the Culinary World<br />
Stage, about his experiences with the<br />
competition as a chef and coach. “Competing<br />
in this competition has been<br />
life-changing and eye-opening in so<br />
many ways,” Tessier says. “The more<br />
that young chefs begin to understand<br />
the opportunity that competitions<br />
have to enrich and focus their training<br />
and create opportunity and exposure<br />
to other chefs in different realms<br />
across the world, [the better it is for<br />
the industry.]”<br />
Hard-won thrills<br />
On top of personal growth opportunities,<br />
participants also enjoy the notoriety<br />
that competitions can bring. “From<br />
my perspective now, having done the<br />
competitions and having my own<br />
businesses, it certainly has given me<br />
a boost of credibility throughout the<br />
industry, but it has also given me a<br />
boost economically because people<br />
want you to come and speak about<br />
these things,” says Gavin Kaysen, chef<br />
and owner of Minneapolis restaurants<br />
Spoon and Stable and Bellecour, who<br />
has competed in national and international<br />
contests, including Bocuse d’Or,<br />
where he has served as coach for Team<br />
USA and now serves as VP of the board<br />
of directors for ment’or, formerly The<br />
Bocuse d’Or USA Foundation.<br />
“Absolutely, being involved in barbecue<br />
contests has helped our restaurants,”<br />
says Melissa Cookston of<br />
Memphis Barbecue Co. in Mississippi,<br />
Georgia, and North Carolina and<br />
STEAK in Mississippi. She has competed<br />
in hundreds of barbecue competitions<br />
for more than 20 years. “The<br />
acclaim you can generate by winning<br />
a ‘major’ is something you physically<br />
can’t buy. It’s not something you can<br />
plan on, but if you can make it happen<br />
it’s an awesome thing,” Cookston<br />
says. She would know; she’s been the<br />
World Championship Barbecue Cooking<br />
Contest’s grand champion two<br />
times and the whole-hog champion<br />
five times. What drives her to compete?<br />
Beyond the thrill of the fight,<br />
Cookston notes that it is the memories<br />
made while cooking a hog for 24<br />
hours that keep her coming back for<br />
Path to the Podium<br />
Winners offer advice to newbie<br />
competitors.<br />
OVER-PREPARE<br />
“Because the minute you step<br />
into a new environment, anything<br />
can happen.”<br />
— REBECKA EVANS, 2017 BACON<br />
WORLD CHAMPION AT WFC<br />
BE TRUE TO YOURSELF<br />
“I always ask, ‘Would you cook<br />
this dish for me if I came into your<br />
restaurant?’ Typically, the answer<br />
is ‘no.’ Then why are you going to<br />
do it for a competition?”<br />
— KAYSEN<br />
FOCUS ON THE FLAVOR<br />
“People win these competitions<br />
because their food tastes great.<br />
Obviously, the presentation and<br />
the technique have to be spot<br />
on, but you’ll see plates come<br />
through and you’ll get excited<br />
about it, then realize that it lacks<br />
the substance beneath. Taste<br />
your food over and over again.”<br />
— TESSIER<br />
FEEDBACK IS KEY<br />
“There are some chefs that go<br />
into competition and they are<br />
very prideful about their food,<br />
which sometimes is a good thing,<br />
but most of the time it is not<br />
[because] they won’t ask for a<br />
critique or opinions from others<br />
from the outside. Be open to<br />
positive criticism; that is the best<br />
way to evolve your food.”<br />
— NITAHARA<br />
LEARN FROM MISTAKES<br />
“You know how I learned to<br />
become a good whole hog cook?<br />
By getting my butt kicked, then<br />
going over what was good and<br />
bad about that particular hog,<br />
and then trying to fix the bad<br />
things.” — COOKSTON<br />
FOODNEWSFEED.COM APRIL <strong>2018</strong> 41
COMPETITIONS<br />
Lauren<br />
Sponberg<br />
pourS the<br />
SponSor’S<br />
beverage,<br />
Lucid<br />
abSinthe.<br />
Shaun MegLen StrainS<br />
hiS roxy rouge cocktaiL.<br />
‘‘<br />
The goal of the Cocktail Classique<br />
is to educate bartenders about<br />
the use of authentic absinthes in<br />
contemporary mixology.”<br />
Keri Meuret, Hood RiveR distilleRs<br />
more. “We sit around, we talk. It’s about<br />
the experience, and so much more than<br />
the food and the win,” she says.<br />
Getting to the winner’s circle, however,<br />
does not come without sacrifice.<br />
“Nothing good is ever easy. You have to<br />
be humble, willing to learn from your<br />
mistakes, and always keep a focus on<br />
improving,” Cookston says.<br />
Nitahara—whose mentor told him,<br />
“Practice doesn’t make perfect. Perfect<br />
practice makes perfect,”—dedicates<br />
somewhere between 90 and 140 hours<br />
of practice before an ACF competition,<br />
mimicking every step of the competition<br />
from kitchen organization to cleanup.<br />
“I don’t really want to go into it unless I<br />
have a chance at winning the gold,” he<br />
says of his prep motivation.<br />
Bocuse d’Or participants dedicate an<br />
entire year to preparing for the event,<br />
with coaches dedicating almost two.<br />
“There’s a lot of sacrifice and time that<br />
it takes to do it right,” says Tessier, who<br />
has served in both roles.<br />
Motivations aside, participants overwhelmingly<br />
say competitions are good<br />
for the industry. “I think competition is<br />
always good, whether you’re in a cooking<br />
arena or [your competition] is across<br />
the street,” Kaysen says.<br />
Sponsors’ gain<br />
Competitions, though, are not just for<br />
the betterment of the competitors. To<br />
fund such massive events, organizers<br />
need sponsors. And sponsors, in return,<br />
get a sweet deal: access to hospitality<br />
professionals in an authentic way during<br />
meaningful moments in their careers.<br />
The stakes are high, and if a certain can<br />
of tomatoes helps a chef succeed in a<br />
national food competition, then that<br />
chef might be more likely to lean on that<br />
product in the future.<br />
“Competitions allow us to create an<br />
experience with a chef that’s unique,”<br />
says Becca Yeagy, who is the territory<br />
sales manager for Red Gold and<br />
works with the tomato product company’s<br />
corporate sponsorships. <strong>2018</strong><br />
will be the company’s third year as a<br />
sponsor at the World Food Championships<br />
(wfc) in Alabama. Previously,<br />
Red Gold has sponsored WFC categories,<br />
like the World Sandwich Championship,<br />
which requires competitors<br />
use one of the brand’s products in the<br />
judged dish. Red Gold also has placement<br />
in each competitor’s pantry, as<br />
well as a booth at the Tasting Village<br />
to connect with customers coming to<br />
watch the showdowns.<br />
“[Chefs are at the WFC] and they’re<br />
experiencing our products while<br />
attempting to win $10,000–$100,000.<br />
If they perform well and rely on our<br />
product to do so, they’re more likely to<br />
take that product home with them to<br />
Jessica Fradono PhotograPhy<br />
42 aPril <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.cOm
COMPETITIONS<br />
LUCID COCKTAIL<br />
CLASSIQUE<br />
COMPETITOR,<br />
CHRIS MORRIS,<br />
PUTS THE FINAL<br />
TOUCHES ON HIS<br />
SOGNI D’ORO<br />
COCKTAIL, WHICH<br />
EARNED HIM THE<br />
CHAMPIONSHIP<br />
IN AUSTIN IN 2017.<br />
FOODNEWSFEED.COM APRIL <strong>2018</strong> 43
COMPETITIONS<br />
A pAnel of<br />
judges score<br />
the opening<br />
round<br />
dishes for<br />
the cowboy<br />
chArcoAl’s<br />
fire & ice<br />
women’s<br />
bArbeque<br />
series<br />
chAmpionship<br />
At wfc.<br />
A smokin’<br />
wfc entry.<br />
‘‘<br />
At the WFC, which is open to the public,<br />
Red Gold can reach customers from<br />
both the retail and foodservice spheres.”<br />
Becca Yeagy, Red Gold<br />
the world bAcon<br />
cAtegory’s quiche<br />
structure build At wfc.<br />
wfc’s cherferees<br />
oversee All of the<br />
Action in kitchen<br />
ArenA to ensure<br />
A fAir food fight.<br />
World Food Championships<br />
home cook kim bAnick from sAlem, oregon,<br />
took home the world seAfood chAmpionship<br />
with her AlAbAmA crAwfish thAi bowl with<br />
coconut gulf shrimp.<br />
44 <strong>April</strong> <strong>2018</strong> FoodnEWsFEEd.Com
their businesses,” Yeagy says. The format<br />
works so well, in fact, that Yeagy<br />
and her team have entered a multi-year<br />
agreement with the WFC and are looking<br />
to get involved with more competitions<br />
on the regional level.<br />
Similarly, Lucid Absinthe Supérieure<br />
sponsors the Lucid Cocktail Classique<br />
competition with the USBG to connect<br />
with leaders in the bartending world.<br />
“The goal of the Cocktail Classique is<br />
to educate bartenders about the use of<br />
authentic absinthes in contemporary<br />
mixology,” says Keri Meuret, marketing<br />
brand manager at Hood River Distillers.<br />
Once a core ingredient, absinthe lost<br />
traction in the U.S. after being banned<br />
for 95 years; the ban was only recently<br />
repealed in 2007.<br />
“The Cocktail Classique is a way to<br />
excite working bartenders about authentic<br />
absinthes and to encourage them to<br />
experiment and find innovative ways<br />
to accent the botanicals at the heart of<br />
this wildly versatile spirit,” Meuret says.<br />
“Over the years, the competition has<br />
enabled us to build a cadre of bartenders<br />
in key markets with whom we have<br />
established a personal relationship.” In<br />
those relationships, Lucid acts to break<br />
down the taboo surrounding its product<br />
and, hopefully, gain loyal customers<br />
along the way.<br />
and beverage industries forward.<br />
“The mission of [USBG] is to unite the<br />
hospitality community and to advance<br />
professional bartending,” Smith says.<br />
Competitions, which have been a part<br />
of the USBG since inception, help the<br />
organization achieve this goal by bringing<br />
bartenders from all over the country<br />
with specific interests together to share<br />
in this educational experience. “Communities<br />
grow and form around that,”<br />
he says. And the nature of the competition<br />
helps to achieve the “advancement<br />
of professional bartending” aspect of<br />
USBG’s mission, in the opportunity to<br />
test one’s skills against other leaders in<br />
the field and then gather feedback to<br />
learn and grow as a professional.<br />
“Competitions are how we get a lot<br />
of our members; it’s one of our primary<br />
outreach programs that we organize<br />
nationally,” Smith says. “A lot of successful<br />
people in the industry have filled<br />
their networks through those opportunities.”<br />
Similarly, the mission of the ment’or<br />
foundation supporting Bocuse d’Or<br />
Team USA is to inspire and promote<br />
young American chefs utilizing programs<br />
that identify and showcase their<br />
culinary talent. Young Yun, executive<br />
director of ment’or, says competitions<br />
within the organization like the Young<br />
Looking to organize your own competition?<br />
CheCk out 7 things to know Before starting a food or Beverage<br />
Competition on Foodnewsfeed.com/readySetcompete.<br />
You<br />
get out<br />
what you<br />
put in<br />
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Competitions offer participants personal<br />
feedback to enhance their skills, as well<br />
as opportunity to expand their networks<br />
and bask in the fame of glory—if they<br />
are so lucky. Sponsors get to buddy up<br />
with their target audiences, teaching<br />
them about their products and forming<br />
meaningful memories with them. And<br />
organizers, too—like the USBG, ACF,<br />
ment’or, and WFC—fulfill their missions<br />
to support their networks of professionals<br />
in a way that propels the food<br />
Chef and Commis programs and the<br />
international competition—Bocuse<br />
d’Or—help the organization achieve its<br />
mission by highlighting the art of cooking<br />
and providing young chefs with the<br />
tools to succeed in today’s professional<br />
landscape. “Naturally, everyone wants<br />
to win in a competition, but what I have<br />
observed is how competitions also bring<br />
everyone together to celebrate and<br />
honor tradition [and] the craft of cooking.<br />
[They] have become a global community<br />
and support system,” Yun says.<br />
Explore Tropics at<br />
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FOODNEWSFEED.cOm <strong>April</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 45
MIDDLE EASTERN CUISINE<br />
TRAVERSING<br />
Breadbasket<br />
CIVILIZATION’S<br />
Middle Eastern cuisine shows its range BY MAGGIE HENNESSY<br />
46 APRIL <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COM
MIDDLE EASTERN CUISINE<br />
THINKSTOCK<br />
RIPE OLIVES, FRESH<br />
CHEESES, AND<br />
CREAMY HUMMUS ARE<br />
ONLY THE BEGINNING<br />
OF A CUISINE THAT<br />
SPANS A CULTURALLY<br />
RICH REGION.<br />
FOODNEWSFEED.COM APRIL <strong>2018</strong> 47
Middle eastern Cuisine<br />
Our love affair with the Holy Land<br />
You can’t talk about the rise of Middle<br />
Eastern cuisine in the U.S. without<br />
Israel—a country scarcely 70 years old<br />
and about the size of New Jersey whose<br />
complex, magnetic food has taken Americans<br />
by storm.<br />
A young nation of immigrants, Israel<br />
encompasses the culinary traditions of<br />
more than 100 cultures that have been<br />
in the country and neighboring Palestine<br />
or moved back from the diaspora<br />
to modern-day Israel. This includes a<br />
considerable Arab minority, along with<br />
populations from Iran, Russia, Hungary,<br />
Morocco, Jordan, Iraq, and other countries.<br />
There are Jewish culinary considerations,<br />
too, of keeping kosher—though<br />
Israeli cooking isn’t always synonymous<br />
with kosher cooking, particularly in secular<br />
places like Tel Aviv.<br />
Buzzy Israeli concepts are popping<br />
up all over the U.S. At Los Angeles’ Mh<br />
Zh, patrons brave long lines for the sigbright,<br />
fresh, and pickled vegetables alongside grilled meats are a<br />
hallmark of meals throughout egypt, israel, syria, and iran ,to name a few.<br />
A<br />
group of countries spanning<br />
from North Africa to<br />
Asia, the Middle East is at<br />
the crossroads of rich cultures,<br />
fallen empires, and centuries of<br />
migration. It encompasses wide-ranging<br />
geographies, from vast, empty deserts to<br />
lush countrysides, long coastlines, and<br />
rocky mountains. From Egypt to Lebanon<br />
to Iran, you’ll find overlap in dishes<br />
like tabbouleh, pilaf, and hummus, yet<br />
heavily regional differences within each.<br />
To paraphrase celebrated Middle Eastern<br />
food writer Claudia Roden in the<br />
classic New Book of Middle Eastern Food,<br />
the history of Middle Eastern food and<br />
the Middle East are one and the same.<br />
“Dishes carry the triumphs and glories,<br />
the defeats, the loves and sorrows of the<br />
past,” she says in the book.<br />
Cook N Solo ReStauRaNtS<br />
ilili<br />
These diverse cuisines are no longer<br />
relegated to blanket descriptors like Middle<br />
Eastern or Mediterranean, as more<br />
U.S. operators explicitly bill themselves<br />
as Lebanese, Persian, Armenian, and<br />
Israeli. In the process, Americans are<br />
waking up to the deep nuances of this<br />
aromatic, wholesome, vegetable-heavy<br />
food, whose origins lie with the start of<br />
civilization.<br />
“The American dining public is increasingly<br />
primed to be excited about what’s<br />
new and next,” says Steve Cook, the restaurateur/partner<br />
of modern Israeli spot<br />
Zahav in Philadelphia who cofounded<br />
the CookNSolo restaurant group with<br />
chef Michael Solomonov. “There’s a sense<br />
of adventurousness among diners now<br />
that didn’t exist 10 years ago. Whether<br />
that’s regional Thai, Malaysian, or Israeli,<br />
there’s a much greater acceptance to try<br />
something authentic.”<br />
He likens Middle Eastern cuisine’s<br />
trajectory to that of Italian in U.S. restaurants<br />
in the 1980s, when generic redsauce<br />
joints started giving way to more<br />
regionally specialized concepts like Sicilian<br />
and Tuscan, reflecting growing consumer<br />
interest in authenticity.<br />
48 apRil <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.cOm
Middle eastern Cuisine<br />
nature funky ground lamb in a puddle of<br />
tahini imbued with sumac and preserved<br />
lemon. In New York, Tel Aviv celebrity<br />
chef Meir Adoni’s Nur restaurant<br />
nods to Israel’s Palestinian influences<br />
via hand-cut beef tartare with smoked<br />
eggplant cream, raw tahini, and sheep’s<br />
yogurt. And at Zahav, Solomonov turns<br />
Philadelphians onto street-food staples<br />
like sabich, a pita sandwich with hardboiled<br />
eggs and fried eggplant developed<br />
by Iraqi Jews in Israel.<br />
To say Zahav has gotten a lot of attention<br />
would be a massive understatement;<br />
the 10-year-old spot has nabbed top<br />
accolades from Bon Appétit, Esquire, and<br />
Eater, and remains one of Philly’s toughest<br />
reservations. But when Solomonov<br />
and Cook opened in 2008 on a nondescript<br />
street in the Society Hill neighborhood,<br />
“nobody was really talking about<br />
Israeli cuisine,” Cook says. “People always<br />
equated Israeli food with Middle Eastern,<br />
and that was pretty much everything<br />
they knew about it.”<br />
Bringing hummus to the white<br />
tablecloth<br />
Despite shifting early toward more<br />
approachable food, Zahav is a decidedly<br />
upscale dining experience—with craft<br />
cocktails and a strong focus on service<br />
in a cool, loft-like space with an open<br />
kitchen, leather booth seating, and dim<br />
pendant lights. Cook says they had to<br />
actively push back against a casual perception,<br />
trading graphic T-shirts for<br />
more formal staff uniforms.<br />
It’s a challenge familiar to many Middle<br />
Eastern concepts looking to divorce<br />
themselves from the fast-casual, buildyour-own<br />
bowl/sandwich image so many<br />
Americans have cultivated of Middle<br />
Eastern fare. In Chicago, 48-year-old<br />
Armenian stalwart Sayat Nova has consistently<br />
fought against the stereotype<br />
that ethnic restaurants should be cheap.<br />
“Middle Eastern food went on the<br />
path of fast food and stayed with it,”<br />
says chef/owner Roupen Demirdjian,<br />
whose late father, Arsen, opened Sayat<br />
Nova in 1970. “I think they just want to<br />
attract the masses. We’re a little more of<br />
an upscale, white-tablecloth restaurant.<br />
Michael Persico<br />
a family-style feast at zahav often includes many mezes, such as hummus,<br />
baba ganoush, green tahini, and fresh salads.<br />
FOODNEWSFEED.cOm aPril <strong>2018</strong> 49
MIDDLE EASTERN CUISINE<br />
“If you’re trying to sell<br />
something that’s relatively<br />
unknown, if you describe<br />
it as Middle Eastern food,<br />
you’re covering a bigger<br />
area. It’s a get-them-inthe-door<br />
kind of thing.”<br />
ROUPEN DEMIRDJIAN<br />
Sayat Nova, Chicago<br />
50 APRIL <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COM
ShakShuka iS<br />
perhapS the<br />
moSt iconic of<br />
iSraeli diSheS.<br />
Michael Persico<br />
It’s troublesome, because people say, ‘I can get hummus and<br />
lentil soup at this place down the street for very cheap.’ And<br />
I’m like, ‘Well, yeah, but I go looking for the best chickpeas,<br />
the best tahini, and best red lentils I can find.’”<br />
Demirdjian’s family hails from the Adana region of Turkey,<br />
near the Syrian border. It’s an area Armenian communities<br />
called home for thousands of years as part of the<br />
Ottoman Empire, until the Turkish-Armenian conflict of<br />
the late 19th century resulted in the deportation and massacre<br />
of roughly 1.5 million Armenians in 1918. Now just<br />
50,000–70,000 Armenian Turks remain, and many call<br />
Istanbul home.<br />
Sayat Nova’s interpretation of Armenian cuisine thus<br />
betrays strong Levant influences. Cracked wheat tabbouleh<br />
salad is juicier than its herb-centric Lebanese sibling,<br />
thanks to a heavy dose of tomato and lemon juice. And<br />
everything from delicate lamb, beef, and chicken kebabs to<br />
lamb-stuffed grape leaves is tinged with peppery spice. “That<br />
comes from being in the middle of spice trade routes for centuries,”<br />
Demirdjian says of being at the crossroads of western<br />
Asia, the eastern Mediterranean, and northeast Africa.<br />
Even 48 years after Sayat Nova opened, Chicagoland<br />
restaurants billing themselves as Armenian remain scarce;<br />
Demirdjian could only recall fast-casual Siunik in north<br />
suburb Glenview and full-service Ararat in Mundelein, Illinois.<br />
But that doesn’t mean there isn’t Armenian cooking<br />
happening in the countless Middle Eastern–labeled spots<br />
throughout the area.<br />
“If you’re trying to sell something that’s relatively<br />
unknown, if you describe it as Middle Eastern food, you’re<br />
covering a bigger area,” he says. “It’s a get-them-in-the-door<br />
kind of thing. Even in L.A., where there are a ton of Armenians,<br />
they call their restaurants Middle Eastern. I never<br />
did. I didn’t want to.”<br />
Lightening up<br />
Lebanese cuisine has long enjoyed a fairly high profile stateside,<br />
which Philippe Massoud, executive chef and CEO of<br />
ilili in New York, attributes to widespread Lebanese diaspora,<br />
resulting both from catastrophe and exploration. The<br />
19th century saw especially strong concentrations of Lebanese<br />
people migrating to North and South America.<br />
Lebanon was under control of the Ottoman Empire until<br />
World War I, after which it was colonized by the French and<br />
saw American troops in the 1950s and ’80s, though it’s been<br />
formally independent since 1943.<br />
To understand Lebanese cuisine, one has to understand,<br />
beyond the nation’s contentious political and cultural history,<br />
its geography and agriculture. Lebanon is one of the<br />
few countries in the region that has four seasons, abundant<br />
water, and a multitude of microclimates. “Things are<br />
greener and there’s a lot of citrus, so flavors and ingredients<br />
are allowed to have their natural presence on plate rather<br />
than being over-seasoned or over-pickled,” Massoud says.<br />
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MIDDLE EASTERN CUISINE<br />
“These days, more<br />
people are realizing that<br />
Persian food is simple,<br />
healthy, and delicious.<br />
I think that is why it is<br />
becoming popular.”<br />
SHAWN SALOOT,<br />
Darya Restaurant, Los Angeles<br />
THINKSTOCK<br />
52 APRIL <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COM
Wealthy families might slaughter a goat<br />
once a month, but the majority of people<br />
eat primarily vegetarian—vegetable<br />
stews and a variety of hot and cold<br />
mezze.<br />
Massoud opened fine-dining ilili in<br />
Manhattan’s Flatiron district in 2008<br />
as an answer to the success of high-end<br />
Japanese spots Nobu and Zuma. “What<br />
they did to Asian cuisine, we hope to<br />
achieve with Levantine cuisine,” he says.<br />
Ilili’s herbaceous, lightly dressed tabbouleh<br />
reflects the region’s abundance,<br />
while the hummus is almost theological<br />
in its ratios: “Just soft enough to<br />
maintain the integrity of the chickpea,<br />
just nutty enough to give the flavor of<br />
tahini, and just lemony enough for a hint<br />
of acidity when you drizzle it with olive<br />
oil and scoop it up with pita,” Massoud<br />
says. “It took a while for people to appreciate<br />
what we consider the real deal.”<br />
What’s pervasive across the menu is<br />
a purposeful lightness to entice people<br />
to come back, which Massoud achieved<br />
through reducing the fat, oil, and salt.<br />
“I wanted people to come and have an<br />
orgy of food and still be able to go dancing,”<br />
he says.<br />
Tasting Tehrangeles<br />
About half of the country’s Iranian population<br />
lives in Los Angeles, according to<br />
U.S. Census data. The region’s diaspora<br />
has been lovingly dubbed Tehrangeles.<br />
Yet for a long time, residents’ exposure<br />
to the cuisine was largely via sandwich<br />
shops and kebab houses, like shoeboxsized<br />
Attari and beloved strip-mall storefront<br />
It’s All Good House of Kabob.<br />
“These days, more people are realizing<br />
that Persian food is simple, healthy, and<br />
delicious,” says Shawn Saloot, partner of<br />
stalwart Darya Restaurant in Orange<br />
County and West Los Angeles. “I think<br />
that is why it is becoming popular.”<br />
Iran is home to one of the world’s oldest<br />
continuous major civilizations, with<br />
historical and urban settlements dating<br />
back to 7,000 B.C. Once a major empire,<br />
the country has endured invasions by<br />
the Greeks, Arabs, Turks, and Mongols—<br />
though it’s reasserted its national identity<br />
throughout the centuries. Historical<br />
interactions with neighboring regions<br />
have undoubtedly affected the cuisine,<br />
though, with Caucasian, Levantine,<br />
Greek, Central Asian, Russian, and Turkish<br />
gastronomy all leaving their mark.<br />
“Persian food originated from different<br />
parts of Iran, each with their own<br />
specific and unique culture and geography,<br />
such as the Caspian Sea whitefish<br />
with herb rice,” Saloot says. “But<br />
let me tell you something, Persian food<br />
is not spicy at all.” Rather, he says, it’s<br />
more often tinged with aromatic saffron,<br />
turmeric, and cinnamon. Grilled meat<br />
is often the centerpiece, with rice and<br />
bread being staples of every Persian table.<br />
Saloot opened Darya with his brother<br />
Ali Saloot in 1985, opting for old-school<br />
elegance via chandeliers, Victorian décor,<br />
and an ambitious menu of traditional<br />
Persian meats, stews, and rice dishes.<br />
They opened a second outpost in Santa<br />
Monica 10 years later.<br />
The Saloots draw from Southern<br />
California’s agricultural abundance to<br />
faithfully re-create classic dishes, such<br />
as kashke bademjan, with sauteed eggplant<br />
mixed with yogurt, fried garlic,<br />
turmeric, fried onion, and topped with<br />
sautéed mint, garlic, and kashk (whey<br />
sauce). Their famous tahdig, or crispy<br />
rice from the bottom of the pot, is<br />
heaped with Fesenjan stew, made from<br />
slow-boiled chicken in a sauce of evenslower-cooked<br />
pomegranate and ground<br />
walnuts. Homespun touches permeate<br />
Juicy Chicken—a kebab made from<br />
chicken-breast medallions marinated<br />
overnight in lemon juice, saffron, corn<br />
oil, salt, and pepper, then charbroiled—<br />
which was so named by Saloot’s then-7-<br />
year-old son.<br />
Yet even as the landscape has grown<br />
more crowded with spots like stylish<br />
Flame and Iranian-American Cafe<br />
Glacé doling out lamb tahchin—saffron<br />
rice cakes—and Persian gyros, Darya<br />
remains true to the Saloot’s Iran for 33<br />
years and counting.<br />
“I cannot change the traditional Iranian<br />
food,” Saloot says. “We have only<br />
tried to keep its standard the highest<br />
possible by using fresh and quality ingredients.”<br />
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FOODNEWSFEED.cOm <strong>April</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 53
SUNDA,<br />
CHICAGO<br />
REAL ESTATE<br />
Getting Real About<br />
Real Estate<br />
BY AMANDA BALTAZAR<br />
54 APRIL <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COM
Choosing a<br />
new location<br />
in another city<br />
or another<br />
state takes<br />
much more<br />
than the old<br />
adage ‘location,<br />
location,<br />
location.’<br />
Rockit Ranch PRoductions<br />
Billy Dec gets easily exciteD<br />
about new locations and<br />
puts everything into finding<br />
the right spots for his<br />
restaurants. The CEO and<br />
founder of Rockit Ranch<br />
Productions is making his<br />
first forays out of Chicago,<br />
where he has three restaurants,<br />
to open a second location<br />
of his concept, Sunda,<br />
in Nashville this spring.<br />
Many factors have gone<br />
into the site selection, but<br />
for Dec, “it simply comes<br />
down to whether or not a<br />
particular location is one I’m<br />
dying to be in. To know if<br />
it’s the right fit for our concept,<br />
I have to love the people,<br />
culture, environment,<br />
beauty, potential. It has to<br />
invigorate, excite, motivate,<br />
and hype me up to deliver<br />
our best product at the<br />
highest level.”<br />
Rockit Ranch PRoductions<br />
Sunda,<br />
FoodnEWSFEEd.Com<br />
ChiCago<br />
aPRil <strong>2018</strong> 55
REAL ESTATE<br />
To dig down deep with that, Dec has<br />
been immersing himself into Nashville<br />
for the past seven years. Beyond understanding<br />
what makes a city tick, Dec<br />
says, he also looked at Nashville more<br />
scientifically, examining parameters<br />
such as population growth, proximity<br />
to targeted demographic, lack of competition,<br />
and strategic local partners.<br />
The AinsworTh<br />
“To know if it’s the right fit for our concept, I have<br />
to love the people, culture, environment, beauty,<br />
potential. It has to invigorate, excite, motivate,<br />
and hype me up to deliver our best product at the<br />
highest level.” —Billy Dec, CEO & fOunDEr, rOCkit ranCh<br />
The AinsworTh<br />
Ainsworth,<br />
newArk, nJ<br />
Ainsworth,<br />
new York CitY<br />
The Golden rule<br />
Golden Corral uses technology to hone<br />
its site-selection process. The Raleigh,<br />
North Carolina–based chain, which has<br />
around 500 restaurants across the U.S.,<br />
uses PopStats and Experian for demographic<br />
information. It also uses a demographic<br />
platform, Intalytics, for its major<br />
analysis. “We have a pretty sophisticated<br />
way of looking at this,” says senior vice<br />
president of development Dave Conklin.<br />
After this, the concept researches the<br />
market. A high-density market is essential,<br />
Conklin says, since high-frequency<br />
users visit the restaurants as many as 80<br />
times a year. For a large location, he looks<br />
for 110,000 people within a 15-minute<br />
driving radius and around 31,000 cars<br />
passing daily. “Our preference is highway<br />
exposure, and if we can’t have that,<br />
we want the busiest street,” Conklin says.<br />
The chain is not averse to small<br />
locations, either. For these, it looks<br />
for 70,000 people within 20 minutes,<br />
21,000 cars passing daily, and 18,000<br />
employees nearby. “That employee population<br />
really drives your lunchtime business—we<br />
survive on multiple dayparts.”<br />
Conklin also looks at which bigbox<br />
retailers, such as Home Depot and<br />
Walmart, are nearby because they generate<br />
traffic. “We also look at areas that<br />
have positive growth—at eating and<br />
drinking sales, as well as retail sales,”<br />
he says. “This shows the health of the<br />
market.”<br />
A change that Golden Corral made in<br />
recent years is a move into in-line and<br />
end-cap locations. “Freestanding restau-<br />
56 <strong>April</strong> <strong>2018</strong> FooDnewsFeeD.Com
REAL ESTATE<br />
Paige HosPitality grouP<br />
Southampon<br />
SoCial Club,<br />
Southampton, nY<br />
121 Fulton<br />
Street,<br />
new York CitY<br />
Paige HosPitality grouP<br />
FooDnewSFeeD.Com aPril <strong>2018</strong> 57
REAL ESTATE<br />
Mr. PurPle,<br />
New York CiTY<br />
Gerber Group<br />
The ChesTer,<br />
New York CiTY<br />
paiGe Hospitality Group<br />
58 <strong>April</strong> <strong>2018</strong> FooDNewsFeeD.CoM
REAL ESTATE<br />
rants will always be our bread and butter,<br />
but changing market conditions, such as<br />
increasing development costs and different<br />
demands from consumers, have<br />
resulted in us looking at different locations,”<br />
Conklin says. In seeking in-line<br />
and end-cap locations, the chain tries<br />
to secure sites that have great visibility<br />
from the street, pylon signage, great<br />
access, and plenty of parking.<br />
The imporTance<br />
of siTe visiTs<br />
Buffalo Wings & Rings also relies on science,<br />
but takes a very hybrid approach<br />
when selecting new locations, says Philip<br />
Schram, chief development officer of the<br />
Cincinnati, Ohio–based company, which<br />
has 56 locations across the country.<br />
The brand turns to data-mining companies<br />
such as eSite Analytics. “They can<br />
tell you who lives nearby, who works<br />
nearby, and who are the customers,” Schram<br />
says. “Therefore, we can understand<br />
if our restaurants would fit.”<br />
If a site’s approved, a team visits it<br />
to look at a number of factors, but primary<br />
among them are traffic, visibility,<br />
and a vibrant trade area. It also looks at<br />
the demographics. As a sports bar, the<br />
company wants to be in an upper-bluecollar<br />
or middle-white-collar area.<br />
Schram has learned his lesson about<br />
site visits and knows they’re non-negotiable.<br />
He once skipped a Texas site visit<br />
and didn’t realize the location was only<br />
accessible from one side of the freeway.<br />
“So, theoretically, while we have access to<br />
a huge population, we actually only have<br />
access to half of it.” The site was also halfway<br />
between two vibrant trade areas and<br />
three miles from most houses, which is<br />
too far. This location, he says, has struggled<br />
since it first opened.<br />
Paige Hospitality Group is making<br />
its first forays out of the New York City<br />
region and expanding its brand, The Ainsworth,<br />
to Kansas City in January, Nashville<br />
in <strong>April</strong>, and Philadelphia this summer.<br />
How To Choose<br />
Your Next Location<br />
GeT booTs on The Ground<br />
Nothing stands in the place of getting to know the area<br />
firsthand<br />
harness TechnoloGy<br />
Use digital analytics to gather demographics, traffic<br />
numbers, and population stats<br />
learn from peers<br />
Look at who else has located nearby and notice if there<br />
other anchors like big-box stores to draw customers in<br />
examine The GrowTh<br />
The rate of eating and drinking sales says a lot about the<br />
health of the market<br />
FLickr - Wu HaoxiaNg<br />
FOODNEWSFEED.COm apriL <strong>2018</strong> 59
REAL ESTATE<br />
CEO Matt Shendell says three things<br />
were important in the city selection: a<br />
loyal sports fan base, an emerging food<br />
and beverage scene, and a location<br />
with plenty of New York transplants,<br />
“because then you have brand recognition,”<br />
he says. Once he decided to expand<br />
out of the Big Apple, he made a list of all<br />
the cities that touched all those points.<br />
He then hired brokers who visited those<br />
cities, and a team from the restaurant<br />
group visited them based on the findings.<br />
For real estate, Paige Hospitality<br />
Group looked for nighttime traffic, Sunday<br />
football traffic, and corporate happy<br />
hour visitors. Shendell says he also looks<br />
at whether there are other competing<br />
businesses in the area and whether they<br />
are doing well. Disposable income is also<br />
a good indicator, he says, because the restaurant<br />
needs to be near people who are<br />
able to afford dining out. Plus, he shoots<br />
for locations that have a good mix of residential<br />
and commercial business, which<br />
brings business at different times.<br />
Howard Cannon is the president of<br />
the consulting firm Restaurant Expert<br />
Witness in Birmingham, Alabama. He<br />
“You should never<br />
compromise who<br />
you are, what your<br />
brand identity is, or<br />
what your needs are.”<br />
Billy Dec<br />
CEO & fOunDEr,<br />
rOCkit ranCh<br />
says that when selecting a site, operators<br />
need to check one of two boxes: either on<br />
a busy street or far from it. And there’s<br />
no middle ground between them, he says.<br />
The former will have high rent, but also<br />
a lot of traffic passing its doors; the latter<br />
will have low rent but will require a<br />
lot of marketing dollars to advertise its<br />
presence. “You have to pick your poison,”<br />
Cannon says.<br />
The ideal building<br />
Dec says he doesn’t really mind what<br />
a building’s history is, since the world<br />
moves at such a fast pace and circumstances<br />
change. “Though in cases where<br />
there has been a string of failures, I’d<br />
watch out,” he says of leasing an existing<br />
building.<br />
Buffalo Wings & Rings opts for a mixture<br />
of leased buildings and new builds<br />
when opening a new location. “When<br />
you build from scratch, there are no surprises,”<br />
Schram says, “and when I do a<br />
conversion, we often end up changing<br />
80 percent or 90 percent of the restau-<br />
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REAL ESTATE<br />
rant, which doesn’t lead to any savings.”<br />
Some franchisees, he says, view<br />
the building as their 401(K) and want<br />
to own the real estate, but often these<br />
buildings are a liability instead of an<br />
asset, “especially if the trade area moves<br />
or the branding changes a lot,” Schram<br />
says. “So you can end up stuck with a<br />
building.”<br />
Paige Hospitality Group’s Shendell<br />
prefers to find sites that have held restaurants<br />
previously, he says, “so all the<br />
heavy lifting has been done for us.” Otherwise,<br />
he explains, “there’s a lot more to<br />
worry about and it takes about 20 percent<br />
longer to open.” It’s also often more<br />
expensive, too.<br />
He seeks buildings that are 20–35<br />
percent below market price on the<br />
rent per square foot. He also looks at<br />
the cost of build-outs he’ll have to do,<br />
and at the Tenant Improvement Allowance,<br />
which is the amount landlords will<br />
spend so the restaurant can build out<br />
the space.<br />
LandLord considerations<br />
As a former real estate broker, Scott<br />
Gerber is pretty savvy when it comes<br />
to selecting buildings for the 10 restaurants<br />
in the portfolio of his New York<br />
City–based The Gerber Group, nine of<br />
which are in hotels.<br />
First, if the site has had several<br />
failed restaurants in it previously, he’s<br />
not interested because there’s a stigma<br />
to the location, he says. But there’s an<br />
advantage in going into a space that a<br />
single restaurant has previously occupied:<br />
It typically has a lot of the infrastructure<br />
he needs. Most important with<br />
the building is the condition it’s in and<br />
the ease of making any changes, he says.<br />
The landlord is also of vital importance.<br />
It’s important to research that person’s<br />
reputation and how easy he is to<br />
work with. “Inevitably, something comes<br />
up that we haven’t thought of that’s not<br />
outlined in the lease,” Gerber says. “So<br />
having a good relationship can make<br />
that easier.” If a restaurant was previously<br />
in the location, ask its operators<br />
about working with the landlord.<br />
“Make sure the negotiation is a good<br />
deal for both sides and only a little bit<br />
painful for either of you,” Gerber adds.<br />
“If I’ve made it too painful for the landlord,<br />
then when I have to ask for something<br />
that’s not in the lease, he’s going<br />
to stick it to me.”<br />
Above all, Dec says, one of the most<br />
important things to consider in site<br />
selection is making sure it fits the brand,<br />
and that it’s not about a landlord’s deal<br />
or city’s attraction.<br />
“You should never compromise who<br />
you are, what your brand identity is, or<br />
what your needs are,” he says.<br />
4X<br />
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FOODNEWSFEED.cOm <strong>April</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 61
WANT MORE REGULARS?<br />
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certainly doesn’t boost your reviews or your bottom line. So break free<br />
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©<strong>2018</strong> National Restaurant Association. All rights reserved.
Trending on the Menu<br />
<strong>April</strong> <strong>2018</strong> // Chef Tools<br />
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Trending on The menu // Chef Tools<br />
HigH-TeCH ovens<br />
make iT easy To Train<br />
new employees,<br />
save Time, and<br />
improve produCT<br />
ConsisTenCy.<br />
TurboCHef<br />
Enhanced Efficiency<br />
High-tech devices and equipment save chefs time and money. By Peggy CarouThers<br />
Today, pressure on restaurant leaders<br />
is immense. From increasing<br />
labor costs and a shrinking labor<br />
pool to growing competition for customers<br />
and a more demanding public,<br />
there are numerous reason why chefs<br />
and their kitchens are being tasked with<br />
doing more with less. As a result, kitchen<br />
tools that make the lives of chefs and<br />
cooks easier are becoming a critical part<br />
of operations.<br />
“Restaurants have to continually reinvent<br />
themselves and provide offerings<br />
to an ever-changing customer demographic,”<br />
says Dave Shave, vice president<br />
of global sales and marketing at<br />
TurboChef. “Given that expanding the<br />
restaurant footprint or adding new locations<br />
is not always an option, the need<br />
for new equipment that can deliver new<br />
menu options and expand revenue by<br />
providing a high quality delivery solutions<br />
is key. This equipment needs to<br />
focus on being energy efficient, easy to<br />
operate, and reliable.”<br />
Installing tools that save space and<br />
costs are great first step in making kitchens<br />
more efficient. Ventless ovens, for<br />
example, have lower upfront installation<br />
costs than traditional ovens with<br />
hoods, and they also reduce ongoing utility<br />
costs. This means that restaurants<br />
will receive ongoing benefits throughout<br />
the life of the oven.<br />
Equipment that also ensures food is<br />
cooked consistently also offers big benefits<br />
to the kitchen. “Induction delivery<br />
systems can also help ensure that food<br />
reaches customers at the best temperature<br />
and consistency,” Shave says. This<br />
can save cooks time and help managers<br />
ensure quality dishes are being served.<br />
Other tools can reduce strain from<br />
the kitchen and make training new<br />
cooks simpler. For example, food pro-<br />
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cessors help reduce prep time and create<br />
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Robot Coupe. “Never lose focus on basic<br />
knife skills, but do understand there are<br />
so many options with food processors to<br />
make a kitchen run even more efficiently<br />
and save both time and labor,” he says.<br />
“By performing time-consuming tasks,<br />
such as food prep, for them, the chefs<br />
are now able to become more creative<br />
and focus on other restaurant functions.”<br />
Though it may not seem as glamorous<br />
as high-tech equipment, storage systems<br />
can be generate valuable cost savings.<br />
“Storing and the smart handling of<br />
food products to extend their shelf life<br />
is one way to control costs,” says Patricia<br />
Guerrero, a senior marketing manager<br />
at Cambro. “This point is particularly<br />
important for facilities that work<br />
with a lot of fresh produce and other perishable<br />
products. Making fresh produce<br />
last for an additional two or three days<br />
could help save hundreds or even thousands<br />
of dollars per month.”<br />
Even for restaurants that aren’t ready<br />
to in large systems right away, starting<br />
with a single new tool can still offer big<br />
benefits, Guerrero says. “Implementing<br />
use of just one type of product, a commercial-grade<br />
storage container or food<br />
pan with a sealing cover, is enough to<br />
produce savings by itself, but combining<br />
several creative solutions will always<br />
have the most significant impact,” she<br />
says. “Consistency, efficiency, and management<br />
in every step of the operator<br />
process, from ordering items to storing<br />
and preserving them to preparing and<br />
serving them, are the details that produce<br />
successful businesses despite the<br />
variables involved in food service.”<br />
The Kitchen of the Future<br />
Over the last decade, the speed of technological<br />
growth has revolutionized life<br />
outside the kitchen, and in the last few<br />
years, it has been doing the same inside.<br />
This speed of change, however, is only<br />
growing, and restaurants can expect to<br />
find new tools in their kitchens soon.<br />
With the tremendous growth of<br />
mobile technology, for example, it is<br />
no surprise that it has already started<br />
to cross into the realm of guest experience<br />
and inventory control. “Connectivity<br />
is becoming a key element in the<br />
equipment space,” Shave says. “We have<br />
seen over the past couple of years how<br />
ordering has changed in this space with<br />
mobile ordering now commonplace.”<br />
But as these mobile technology<br />
advances, it is also crossing into the<br />
kitchen. “Integrating the equipment into<br />
the ordering system to stage and streamline<br />
the cooking process is the next step,”<br />
Shave says. Additionally, he notes that<br />
the new ability for equipment to alert<br />
management when service is required<br />
means that equipment has more up time<br />
and can generate more sales.<br />
Much like mobile, as new technology<br />
revolutionizes other industries,<br />
restaurants can expect these hightech<br />
solutions to enter kitchens soon,<br />
too. Datassential reports that 81 percent<br />
of consumers believe science can<br />
have a positive impact on food, and<br />
research shows that many consumers<br />
are interested in trying food prepared<br />
with advanced techniques. For example,<br />
33 percent of Gen Z and 31 percent<br />
of millennial diners are interested in 3-D<br />
printed foods, which could help further<br />
reduce kitchen strain.<br />
Machine learning is another way<br />
technology may soon enter kitchens.<br />
This technology could help chefs choose<br />
new ideas, dishes, and ingredients to<br />
explore and help them plan for shifts in<br />
consumer demand and industry changes.<br />
Datassential is already launching a new<br />
machine-learning engine called Haiku<br />
this year. This will help the company predict<br />
food trends four years in advance<br />
with 99.3 percent accuracy. These<br />
resources are already available to chefs,<br />
and as machine learning grows, these<br />
kinds of tools could soon find their way<br />
into individual kitchens.<br />
Food and labor costs, customer<br />
demands, and other pressures will keep<br />
influencing the restaurant industry, and<br />
as it shifts, kitchens will have to adapt to<br />
new techniques and technologies to keep<br />
up. By investing in the right tools, chefs<br />
and their kitchens can become more efficient<br />
and spend more time on the things<br />
that matter most—serving good food.<br />
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TRENDING ON THE MENU // Chef Tools<br />
Tech Trends<br />
TECH TRENDS IN THE KITCHEN: THE FUTURE IS HERE // COURTESY OF DATASSENTIAL<br />
CONSIDER THIS: 81% of consumers believe science can have a positive impact on food. What are some ways this<br />
can happen?<br />
3-D PRINTING<br />
• Could food printing be in the chef’s tool kit? In<br />
2014, Barcelona-based Natural Machines produced<br />
a 3-D food printer that could create many dishes<br />
beyond just sweets. Currently, high-end kitchens<br />
and foodservice operators are using the tool.<br />
• 3-D printing technologies are printing foods<br />
beyond confections, spanning everything from ravioli<br />
to pizza and beyond.<br />
• 33% of Gen Z and 31% of Millennials are interested<br />
in trying 3-D printed foods<br />
MACHINE LEARNING<br />
• Machine learning tools could assist chefs in choosing<br />
dishes, ingredients, and ideas for their menus.<br />
• Datassential will be releasing a tool called Food<br />
Studio this year, which harnesses the power of<br />
machine learning to help chefs experiment with<br />
and develop concepts with data on 1 million dishes,<br />
flavors, and ingredients. Stay tuned!<br />
• This year, Datassential will launch a new machine<br />
learning engine called Haiku, which can forecast<br />
food trends four years in advance with 99.3% directional<br />
accuracy. A few predictions:<br />
Trend Current Mac Stage 2017 Penetration 2021 Predicted Penetration Net Point Change % Change<br />
Hard Root Beer Adoption 0.6% 1.1% +0.5% +80%<br />
Ghost Pepper Adoption 1.2% 2.0% +0.8% +77%<br />
Avocado Toast Adoption 1.6% 2.8% +1.2% +77%<br />
Gose Inception 1.8% 3.2% +1.4% +76%<br />
CELLULAR AGRICULTURE<br />
• What is it? The production of agricultural products<br />
from cell cultures within a laboratory. These products<br />
are exactly or nearly the same as the original<br />
product; the only difference is how they are made.<br />
• 27% of consumers believe cellular agriculture foods<br />
are better for your heath<br />
THE CONCEPT OF CELLULAR AGRICULTURE IS<br />
STILL BRAND-NEW TO CONSUMERS<br />
While familiarity is stronger among tech enthusiasts,<br />
younger generations, and foodies, there’s still quite a<br />
way to go before cellular agriculture enters the mainstream<br />
consciousness. But then again, it’s really all just<br />
getting started…<br />
FAMILIARITY WITH CELLULAR AGRICULTURE<br />
TOTAL Foodies Tech Enthusiasts Gen Z + Millennials Gen X Boomers+<br />
10% 19% 37% 26% 10% 4%<br />
PLANT-BASED EATING Younger generations and foodies are leading the charge toward plant-based eating.<br />
• Dairy // 16%<br />
• Burgers // 14%<br />
• Hot dogs / Sausages // 11%<br />
• Ground meat // 10%<br />
• Jerky // 10%<br />
• Raw fish // 9%<br />
• Shellfish // 9%<br />
• Cold cuts // 9%<br />
• Bacon // 8%<br />
• Fish fillets // 8%<br />
• Steak // 8%<br />
65% OF CONSUMERS TODAY want plant-based alternatives at traditional grocery stores<br />
68 APRIL <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COM
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TRENDING ON THE MENU // Chef Tools<br />
KITCHEN ROBOTICS<br />
• Chefs need not worry! Consumers would prefer<br />
robotic food and beverage preparation methods<br />
to help with at-home cooking.<br />
• Potentially, consumers prefer a human touch when<br />
dining away from home because human care and<br />
consideration in making their meals adds substantially<br />
to the value of dining away from home.<br />
• Interest in robotics as a part of life is growing and<br />
will continue to flourish as technology integrates<br />
itself into everyday life.<br />
• Younger generations are the most welcoming to it<br />
entering their lives.<br />
CONSUMERS TODAY PREFER HUMAN<br />
INTERACTION TO ROBOTS…<br />
But the gap closes considerably with younger generations<br />
and will likely continue to close as robots become<br />
ubiquitous in everyday life.<br />
Preference Total Gen Z + Millennials<br />
Prefer Robots 14% 22%<br />
Don’t Care Either Way 28% 26%<br />
Prefer Humans 56% 47%<br />
THE KITCHEN OF THE<br />
FUTURE WILL INCLUDE<br />
DEVICES THAT MAKE<br />
COOKING EVEN MORE<br />
EFFICIENT, SUCH AS 3-D<br />
PRINTERS.<br />
SHUTTERSTOCK<br />
FOR FORWARD-THINKING CHEFS: How Consumers Feel About Futuristic Kitchen Technology<br />
FUTURISTIC KITCHEN TECHNOLOGIES CONSUMERS WANT TO USE OR TRY<br />
Technologies Total Gen Z Millennials Gen X Boomer Silent Gen<br />
Back-of-the-House Robots 19% 29% 35% 18% 9% 0%<br />
Interactive Food Prep Robots 19% 40% 34% 20% 8% 0%<br />
3-D Printed Food 17% 33% 31% 15% 7% 1%<br />
Lab-Grown Food 16% 27% 29% 19% 5% 2%<br />
70 APRIL <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COM
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Perspectives By Mary avant<br />
An Oklahoma City Star on<br />
the Rise<br />
at just 33, restaurateur<br />
rachel Cope has taken<br />
OKC by storm with five<br />
concepts that are making<br />
a name for the region’s<br />
budding food scene.<br />
When Rachel cope finds a gap<br />
in the market, her first instinct is to fill<br />
it. And in the up-and-coming Oklahoma<br />
City restaurant market, there have been<br />
plenty of gaps to fill. After working frontof-house<br />
and managerial positions in a<br />
number of local restaurants during and<br />
after college, Cope set out to create a concept<br />
of her own, inspired by the famous<br />
Home Slice Pizza in Austin, Texas.<br />
“There wasn’t really anyone here<br />
doing pizza by the slice,” Cope says of<br />
her New York–style pizza joint, Empire<br />
Slice House. The 4-year-old concept features<br />
a menu of out-of-the-box pizzas,<br />
from the Ghostface Killah—made with<br />
ghost chili marinara, pepperoni, poblano,<br />
and barbecue chips—to the Brussell<br />
Westbrook, featuring bacon, caramelized<br />
onions, Brussels sprouts, and<br />
cherry pepper relish. The late-night spot<br />
is also home to a full bar, creating a vibe<br />
that’s hip, cool, and affordable, Cope says.<br />
“We kind of pride ourselves on latenight<br />
dining,” she adds. “Empire filled<br />
the niche for a funky pizza place that’s<br />
open late with a full bar that we definitely<br />
had never seen in the state.”<br />
Empire has become so popular and<br />
profitable, in fact, that Cope was forced<br />
to build a to-go outpost right next door<br />
in 2017, known as Easy E Slice Shop. In<br />
addition to offering pizza by the slice,<br />
RestauRateuR Rachel cope’s collection of RestauRants Ranges fRom new YoRk–<br />
style pizza at empire slice house to vegan ramen at gorō.<br />
Easy E serves as the catering and commissary<br />
kitchen for Empire, improving<br />
speed and service for its pizza-loving<br />
guests.<br />
But before Easy E came a number<br />
of other Cope-led concepts, the first<br />
of which was Gorō Ramen. For years,<br />
Cope’s chef friend Jeff Chanchaleune<br />
operated a ramen truck in Oklahoma<br />
City, until he and Cope dreamed up the<br />
concept for a pop-up dinner series—<br />
called Project Slurp—in a nearby brickand-mortar<br />
spot. For an entire year, the<br />
pair hosted dinners once a month, where<br />
Chanchaleuene would whip up ramen<br />
and other Japanese cuisine, while Cope<br />
would experiment with fun cocktails<br />
and drinks to pair with the food.<br />
“Not only were we trying out Japanese<br />
dishes and Asian dishes, we were also<br />
testing our drinks,” Cope said. “That was<br />
our way of testing this thought: Would<br />
people come to a ramen shop enough to<br />
support it and be successful?”<br />
The answer: A resounding yes. After<br />
selling out every dinner that year, the<br />
duo opened Gorō Ramen in 2015 in<br />
OKC’s Plaza District—one of only two<br />
ramen shops in the city.<br />
Next came Revolución, a tacos-andtequila<br />
spot in the home of a former<br />
auto garage. Despite the prevalence of<br />
Tex-Mex concepts in the market, Cope<br />
says the concept she was going for—one<br />
that was modern and cool, with a nod<br />
to more traditional Mexican cuisine—<br />
was nowhere to be found. So, naturally,<br />
she created it.<br />
The same goes for Ponyboy, Cope’s<br />
coffee shop by day and cocktail bar by<br />
Chris NguyeN<br />
72 <strong>April</strong> <strong>2018</strong> FOODnEWSFEED.COM
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Perspectives<br />
night. The concept—which was designed<br />
to have a “very Oklahoma bar vibe”—<br />
boasts a lineup of down-to-earth cocktails<br />
at approachable prices. “Sometimes<br />
with craft cocktails, there’s this<br />
pretentiousness that comes along with<br />
that, and we don’t do that,” she says.<br />
“That’s not who we are.” Instead, Ponyboy<br />
focuses on locally sourced, recognizable<br />
ingredients and a level of service<br />
that makes bar-goers feel right at home.<br />
Under the 84 Hospitality Group<br />
umbrella, Cope’s handful of concepts<br />
each have distinct personalities and<br />
offerings but share the same guest<br />
experience, atmosphere, and friendly<br />
price point. Each location also places an<br />
emphasis on putting employees first—<br />
a mission that became close to Cope’s<br />
heart after noticing that turnover at her<br />
restaurants was unusually high. “I’m in a<br />
city where there’s only so many people to<br />
choose from, so I started thinking, ‘How<br />
do I eliminate people leaving? How can<br />
I make them see that waiting tables is<br />
not just temporary—that this could be<br />
a career?’” she says.<br />
She quickly found her answer after<br />
hiring a chief cultural officer, Anthony<br />
Dobey, late last year. Together, they<br />
worked to put an employee incentive<br />
program in place, in which they offer<br />
the group’s more than 300 employees<br />
the tools they need to not only grow in<br />
their careers, but also to grow as people.<br />
The program includes perks like $10<br />
haircuts, gym memberships and discounted<br />
yoga classes, free movies at the<br />
local theater, and a partnership with a<br />
nearby bank, where bank employees give<br />
talks on such topics as building credit<br />
and opening a savings account. As with<br />
the greater restaurant industry, 84 Hospitality<br />
Group attracts young employees,<br />
who Cope says are roughly between<br />
the ages of 17 and 28. “When I was that<br />
age, I wish somebody would have taught<br />
me what we’re trying to teach them now,”<br />
she says.<br />
Though exact figures aren’t available<br />
yet, Cope estimates that 84 Hospitality’s<br />
turnover rates have fallen by 25 percent<br />
since enacting the incentive program. As<br />
she points out, a restaurant’s employees<br />
are its best advocates since they are the<br />
ones interacting with the guests. Cope<br />
wants that enthusiasm for the company<br />
and the city to shine through.<br />
Also crucial for Cope: continuing to<br />
deliver on guests’ expectations for new<br />
and exciting concepts. “Now we feel an<br />
obligation—in a good way—to keep<br />
bringing cool things here,” she says of<br />
84 Hospitality’s role in the Oklahoma<br />
City dining scene. “It feels really good for<br />
people to say, ‘What are you guys going<br />
to do next?’”<br />
And although she has considered<br />
branching outside OKC to put her stamp<br />
on other markets across the country,<br />
Cope remains dedicated to the restaurant<br />
industry in her home state.<br />
“I would love to do something somewhere<br />
else,” she says. “But am I ready to<br />
let go of what’s happening in the city and<br />
put myself in another market and try to<br />
drive it there? I don’t know. I just need to<br />
finish what we started here.”<br />
Chris NguyeN<br />
Although cope is open to future expAnsion beyond oklAhomA city, she is committed to driving the mArket with unique<br />
concepts like ponyboy (top right), which speciAlizes in locAl fAre, And revolución with tAcos And ceviche (bottom right).<br />
74 <strong>April</strong> <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.cOm
Service By Kevin Hardy<br />
A More Human Touch of Tech<br />
restaurants continue<br />
to streamline their<br />
operations with new tech,<br />
but never at the expense<br />
of customer care.<br />
Abuelo’s<br />
Abuelo’s finds thAt the right bAlAnce of technology cAn enhAnce its<br />
hospitAlity And menu, which includes dishes like the pork tenderloin AbrigAdA.<br />
About four yeArs Ago, Abuelo’s<br />
Mexican Restaurants installed tabletop<br />
tablets. The Ziosk devices allow customers<br />
to order drinks, appetizers, and<br />
desserts without a server. They include<br />
games for kids and empower customers<br />
to settle their bill whenever they please,<br />
without waiting for a ticket or handing<br />
over a credit card.<br />
“We did not cut the number of servers<br />
because you still need to order the<br />
entrées from the server,” says Bob Lin,<br />
president of the Texas-based chain. “And<br />
with our restaurants, there’s so much<br />
customization we allow our guests, it’d<br />
be impossible to do it through a tablet.<br />
We think of ourselves as a casual-plus,<br />
so having those touchpoints with the<br />
guests is very important.”<br />
Table-top ordering represents just<br />
one step the chain has taken to integrate<br />
technology across the operation.<br />
It might seem that such products fit best<br />
in limited-service restaurants, where<br />
value, speed, and convenience are the<br />
main drivers. But Lin says full-service<br />
restaurants can find success going hightech,<br />
too. And they can do it without sacrificing<br />
hospitality—an important differentiator<br />
for the full-service segment.<br />
In fact, Lin believes some technology<br />
can improve the human element of<br />
service. Abuelo’s table-top devices allow<br />
staff to spend more time with customers;<br />
servers are freed up from running<br />
to the table with the check, back to the<br />
POS station, and then back to the table.<br />
“That stuff just kind of goes away,” Lin<br />
says. “There are always those occasions<br />
where the guest is frustrated because<br />
they’re ready to go and they can’t find<br />
the person to ring them out. It’s a loselose<br />
situation where we’re not turning<br />
the table as fast as we can and the customer<br />
is dissatisfied.”<br />
Lin says customers have met the<br />
change in stride, and they can still order<br />
and pay directly with a server if they<br />
choose. It’s a key consideration for those<br />
guests who are uncomfortable with or<br />
opposed to technology.<br />
The Ziosk system also upgraded customer<br />
satisfaction surveys with the<br />
questionnaire prompt on the tablet. Previously,<br />
the process relied on enticing<br />
customers with coupons or freebies to<br />
call in or visit a website to offer feedback.<br />
Although Abuelo’s offers no customer<br />
incentives with the new tablet-based surveys,<br />
the response rate has been higher.<br />
Plus, the system delivers granular results,<br />
down to a specific employee or a recurring<br />
issue.<br />
“If an employee’s consistently getting<br />
low marks in a particular area, then we<br />
can counsel the employee,” Lin says. “Or,<br />
if an employee is getting superior ratings<br />
at every interaction, then there are<br />
things we can do to reward the employee.<br />
It’s very actionable data that we’re getting.”<br />
As technology continues to reshape<br />
the industry—with transformational<br />
tools ranging from employee-schedul-<br />
FOOdneWSFeed.cOm <strong>April</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 75
Service<br />
ing systems to inventory management<br />
programs to digital ordering devices—<br />
full-service restaurants are increasingly<br />
rolling out customer-facing innovations<br />
that mirror those sweeping across their<br />
limited-service counterparts.<br />
But technology can sometimes go<br />
too far. TouchBistro founder and CEO<br />
Alex Barrotti pointed to a restaurant<br />
that invested deeply in table-top hologram<br />
technology that projected a virtual<br />
server in front of diners. The gizmo had<br />
little utilitarian purpose and, he says,<br />
that restaurant ultimately failed.<br />
“If you implement technology for the<br />
sake of technology, I think it’s always<br />
the wrong approach,” he says. “Technology<br />
should solve a problem or an issue.”<br />
TouchBistro offers its POS system on<br />
iPads, which can be used like traditional<br />
mounted systems. Or, servers can take<br />
the devices tableside—an option that<br />
about 10 percent of customers choose.<br />
Some restaurants are still wary of<br />
customers balking at the iPads on the<br />
table. Others worry that servers will<br />
struggle to make eye contact, thus compromising<br />
their service. But Barrotti says<br />
most fears are unwarranted.<br />
“I never see that,” Barrotti says. “It<br />
takes less time to tap on one item than<br />
to write down ‘chicken primavera’ or<br />
‘chicken parmesan.’ … A lot of these are<br />
misconceptions or stigmas that aren’t<br />
really happening in the real world.”<br />
On the iPad, TouchBistro’s app portrays<br />
each diner as a different colored<br />
chair around the table. Servers enter<br />
orders directly by tapping the chair<br />
images, which simplifies the bill-splitting<br />
process. It also speeds up service<br />
since orders for drinks or appetizers are<br />
transmitted instantly to the kitchen or<br />
bar, even as the server is still moving<br />
around a table. The system can decrease<br />
errors by avoiding penmanship issues.<br />
And it automatically prompts questions<br />
about side dishes or meat temperatures,<br />
avoiding those awkward trips back to<br />
the table.<br />
“There are less errors. There’s no transcribing<br />
at all. You’re taking the order<br />
right from the customer’s mouth and<br />
putting it into the computer,” says Brian<br />
Firenze, co-owner of Baltimore’s Ristorante<br />
Firenze. The upscale Italian restaurant<br />
has used TouchBistro’s tableside<br />
option since it opened three years ago.<br />
“To most of the public now, the presence<br />
of an iPad is not that bizarre. Everybody<br />
has them. In fact, just about every child<br />
that comes in has one.”<br />
He adds that his only concern was the<br />
longevity of the devices. After all, tablets<br />
were not designed to be commercialgrade,<br />
which could make them vulnerable<br />
in foodservice environments.<br />
Durable cases and a few replacement<br />
tablets over the years have assuaged<br />
those fears. While Firenze believes the<br />
tablets make the operation more efficient,<br />
they are no replacement for great<br />
customer service. All the basics—smiling,<br />
eye contact, and treating customers<br />
well—still apply.<br />
“This certainly does not replace<br />
human interaction,” he says. “The fact<br />
that they have a tablet in their hand versus<br />
a piece of paper in their hand, to me,<br />
is trivial.”<br />
The digital solution, though, did come<br />
with one drawback, Firenze says. The restaurant<br />
has avoided the pay-at-the-table<br />
option. Instead, it delivers checks in the<br />
traditional fashion; they’re printed at a<br />
station and left at a table, rather than<br />
swiped on the iPad at the table.<br />
The reason? Firenze says the tipping<br />
process becomes awkward when the<br />
server is standing right there.<br />
Still, on the whole Firenze says staff<br />
and customers alike have adapted to the<br />
technology well. So well that he can’t<br />
understand why so few sit-down restaurants<br />
have made similar moves.<br />
“I think it’s still fairly rare, and I’m surprised<br />
by that,” he says. “I think the concerns<br />
are overblown. And our experience<br />
is that we basically get zero pushback.”<br />
ziosk devices prove helpful for larger groups as guests can order drinks and appetizers without flagging down a<br />
server. the tablet’s questionnaire also provides feedback for brand leaders like chef luis sanchez at abuelo’s (right).<br />
Abuelo’s<br />
76 <strong>April</strong> <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.cOm
Finance By Jessie szAlAy<br />
The F&B Bookkeepers<br />
Accountants specializing<br />
in restaurants can<br />
help solve the financial<br />
equation.<br />
Simon BateS<br />
Compared to the more glamorous<br />
aspects of running a restaurant—<br />
experimenting with new dishes, cultivating<br />
the perfect ambiance, recruiting<br />
top talent—bookkeeping is perhaps the<br />
duty restaurateurs are most loath to do.<br />
But seeking professional expertise in the<br />
form of an accountant who specializes<br />
in the restaurant industry can make all<br />
the difference.<br />
At least that was the case for Codi<br />
Bates, a Lawrence, Kansas–based restaurateur<br />
who owns Bon Bon, a bistro that<br />
serves dishes based on her world travels,<br />
and a two-unit fast casual with her husband,<br />
Simon, called The Burger Stand.<br />
Bates works with Mize Houser &<br />
Company, a multi-location Kansas<br />
accounting firm with a specialized restaurant<br />
group. Without them, her concepts<br />
wouldn’t be the successes they<br />
are today, she says. “They’ve helped us<br />
grow from one restaurant to three. They<br />
understand our industry, which is such<br />
a wonderful one, but it changes often<br />
and you have to constantly adapt, and<br />
our accounting partnership is constantly<br />
adapting,” she adds.<br />
While working with a specialized<br />
accountant is important for restaurants<br />
of all sizes and types, it is especially<br />
essential for independent restaurants<br />
and small regional chains that are less<br />
likely to have in-house accounting teams.<br />
“The small restaurant really doesn’t<br />
For restaurateur Codi Bates (aBove) and her husBand, simon, working with an<br />
aCCounting Firm that speCializes in F&B has Been key to their suCCess.<br />
have time for the accounting function,”<br />
says Sean Dawson, CPA and tax shareholder<br />
at Mize Houser. “They’re more<br />
worried about staffing and food costs<br />
and the menu so the last thing they have<br />
time for is accounting.”<br />
If operators run the numbers in a<br />
distracted state, problems with cash<br />
flow and taxes can arise, says Kristin<br />
Wing, marketing program manager at<br />
Mize Houser. Depending on a client’s<br />
needs, restaurant accountants can handle<br />
financials like accounts payable and<br />
payroll, or they can double-check the<br />
numbers that the staff inputs. Either<br />
way, potentially mistakes can be averted.<br />
Big chains often have more resources<br />
provided by corporate. Smaller operators<br />
have to find their own service providers,<br />
like banks, investors, and lawyers, Dawson<br />
says. They also have to determine<br />
the correct legal structure for their restaurants.<br />
Helping source these professionals<br />
and answering these questions<br />
are services restaurant accountants provide<br />
that operators may not be aware of,<br />
he adds.<br />
Bates particularly loves how her restaurant<br />
accountants can find specific<br />
numbers and create projections that illuminate<br />
how the business is doing and<br />
how different situations could affect it.<br />
Nine years ago, she and Simon started<br />
The Burger Stand in the back of a bar<br />
and attempted to run the financials on<br />
their own, relying on QuickBooks. After<br />
a year, they realized an accountant was<br />
in order and, when they began working<br />
with Mize Houser, saw a huge difference.<br />
The accountants found numbers<br />
FOODNe WsFeeD.cOm april <strong>2018</strong> 77
Finance<br />
that helped them understand their food<br />
costs, labor costs, and other expenses,<br />
as well as how to become more efficient<br />
or save money. The Bateses began to<br />
understand not only what was and was<br />
not working, but why.<br />
“We didn’t really have all the information<br />
or the accounting background to be<br />
able to pick out the numbers that were<br />
the most valuable,” Bates says. “Doing a<br />
scan through QuickBooks didn’t work<br />
for us. Our accountants go above and<br />
beyond. They find numbers we didn’t<br />
even ask for but they think will be useful<br />
to us.”<br />
Most recently, the Bateses have<br />
moved toward providing a living wage<br />
and health insurance to all of their<br />
150-plus employees. Their accountants<br />
helped make the shift a reality,<br />
Bates says. They ran numbers for various<br />
scenarios, showing Bates what the<br />
financial costs and benefits of providing<br />
higher wages and insurance would<br />
be. They looked at how paying insurance<br />
costs would work if the restaurants had<br />
a bad few months. They saw which areas<br />
of the business would be relatively safe<br />
and which would be at a higher risk if<br />
the owners made the changes.<br />
Being informed enabled the Bateses<br />
to feel secure in making a decision. “We<br />
wanted to do it, but it’s hard to figure<br />
out how,” she says. “That obstacle is ‘I<br />
want to do this, but how do I do it? Is it<br />
going to cost me the business?’ Having<br />
the numbers helped us approach those<br />
questions in a neutral way.”<br />
Sometimes operators are nervous<br />
or forget to tell their accountants about<br />
changes they make, especially expensive<br />
ones. But Dawson emphasizes the<br />
importance of having honest conversations<br />
and asking questions. When restaurant<br />
accountants are involved early<br />
in a change, they can help determine<br />
the right course, whether it’s for financing<br />
new equipment, setting up payroll<br />
and POS systems, dealing with everchanging<br />
tax and payroll laws, planning<br />
for new locations, and more. Staying in<br />
touch with an accountant about these<br />
topics can help make it easier for restaurants<br />
to save money and have a painless<br />
Advertising Index<br />
Blount Fine Foods........... 51-53<br />
800-274-2526<br />
www.blountfinefoods.com<br />
Conagra Foodservice........... 9<br />
800-357-6543 www.angelamia.com<br />
Great Southern Farms .........60<br />
970-506-7442<br />
www.greatsouthernfarms.com.au<br />
Haliburton Int’l. Foods . ...... 29, 67<br />
877-980-4295 www.haliburton.net<br />
Idaho Potato Commission ....... 7<br />
www.idahopotato.com/fspro<br />
Lactalis American Group Inc. .... 13<br />
1-877-LACTALIS<br />
www.GalbaniPro.com<br />
Land ‘O Lakes . ............ insert<br />
www.landolakesfoodservice.com/<br />
trynow<br />
Libbey ........... inside front, 20<br />
www.insights.libbey.com<br />
National Restaurant<br />
Association ................62, 69<br />
www.Restaurant.org/Show<br />
Polar King ................... 73<br />
877-711-0828 www.polarking.com<br />
Polar Leasing..................71<br />
877-631-1728 www.polarleasing.com<br />
Red Gold . ................... 23<br />
sacramentotomatojuice.com/<br />
skewdats<br />
Robot Coupe................. 65<br />
800-824-1646<br />
www.robotcoupeusa.com<br />
Russet House..........back cover<br />
908-375-8566 www.russethouse.com<br />
Saltworks.....................21<br />
800-353-7258 www.seasalt.com<br />
Saputo . .............. inside back<br />
800-824-3373<br />
www.saputousafoodservice.com<br />
Simplot.......................3<br />
800-572-7783<br />
www.simplotfoods.com<br />
SmartBrew................... 19<br />
800-273-9907<br />
www.smartbrew.com/thefuture<br />
Texas Pete . .................. 10<br />
www.TexasPeteFoodservice.com/<br />
Dust<br />
Tropics . ..................... 45<br />
800-628-6449<br />
www.Tropics-beverages.com<br />
TwoWay Radio Gear ........... 15<br />
888-550-3216<br />
www.twowayradiogear.com<br />
Tyson JD Bacon . ............... 5<br />
www.tysonfoodservice.com<br />
Ultrafryer Systems..............31<br />
830-642-1502 www.ultrafryer.com<br />
SPONSORED CONTENT<br />
Hatco Corporation .............27<br />
888-814-0028<br />
www.hatcocorp.com/en/equipment/<br />
induction<br />
National Restaurant<br />
Association ...................37<br />
www.Restaurant.org/Show<br />
Advertising Inquiries<br />
Phone: 800-662-4834<br />
Eugene Drezner<br />
NatioNal SaleS Director<br />
ext. 126, Eugene@<strong>FSR</strong><strong>magazine</strong>.com<br />
Amber Dobsovic<br />
NatioNal SaleS MaNager<br />
ext. 141, Amber@<strong>FSR</strong><strong>magazine</strong>.com<br />
John Krueger<br />
NatioNal SaleS MaNager<br />
ext. 148, John@<strong>FSR</strong><strong>magazine</strong>.com<br />
78 APRil <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COm
What Do All<br />
These Highly<br />
Successful<br />
Chefs and<br />
Restaurateurs<br />
Have in<br />
Common?<br />
Simon BateS<br />
The baTeses say Mize houser has helped TheM grow To Two burger sTand<br />
locaTions and one bon bon, which serves a Mix of european and asian biTes.<br />
tax season, Dawson says.<br />
Dawson understands, however, that<br />
restaurants’ needs vary. Some operators<br />
want to have monthly talks or quarterly<br />
talks, and others want to be in contact<br />
primarily at tax season. Early conversations<br />
with an accountant should determine<br />
the kind of partnership you want<br />
to have, Dawson says.<br />
Restaurant accountants should<br />
also be flexible with a client’s choice<br />
of accounting software. The right software<br />
can allow restaurants to more easily<br />
collaborate with accountants, says<br />
Lauren Maffeo, a senior content analyst<br />
at GetApp, an online resource for<br />
information on business software. Contrary<br />
to popular belief, software does not<br />
effectively enable restaurants to handle<br />
accounting by themselves. Rather, it can<br />
provide tools to help operators manage<br />
and organize their numbers, which<br />
accountants can then analyze.<br />
Maffeo recommends that restaurants<br />
pick software that allows them to easily<br />
track inventory and purchasing so they<br />
can better manage their relationships<br />
with suppliers. “Accounts payable and<br />
receivable, global tax and compliance<br />
management, multi-currency support,<br />
and customized invoices are additional<br />
features that software shoppers should<br />
consider,” she says.<br />
Picking the right accounting software<br />
is another area in which specialized restaurant<br />
accountants can help, Maffeo<br />
says. It’s common for accountants to<br />
guide clients through the process. They<br />
might even be able to provide special<br />
pricing, Dawson adds.<br />
From software choice to meeting frequency,<br />
the restaurant-accountant relationship<br />
should be tailored to individual<br />
and industry-specific needs. It’s important<br />
for restaurateurs to advocate for<br />
their businesses and not try to fit into<br />
the molds of other business accounting,<br />
Bates says. “When your accountant<br />
understands the crazy business and can<br />
drive the numbers, it will take a lot of<br />
pressure off you. It makes the partnership<br />
invaluable.”<br />
You should know—you’re one of<br />
them. You’re all what we at <strong>FSR</strong> like<br />
to call “tablesetters.”<br />
You make things happen in<br />
the restaurant industry.<br />
You’re an innovator on your menu<br />
and in your operation.<br />
You’re watched and emulated<br />
by other restaurateurs.<br />
You lead the markets you<br />
operate in.<br />
These are characteristics that make<br />
a tablesetter. And <strong>FSR</strong> is the trusted<br />
source of information for these most<br />
influential chefs and restaurateurs<br />
in the industry. Request your free<br />
subscription today by visiting<br />
<strong>FSR</strong><strong>magazine</strong>.com/subscribe<br />
Full-Service Restaurants:<br />
Setting America’s Table<br />
FOODNEWSFEED.cOm april <strong>2018</strong> 79
Where Chefs Eat<br />
Danny Mena { BUSHWICK, NYC }<br />
Where the La Loncheria<br />
co-owner dines when he’s not<br />
serving contemporary Mexican<br />
cuisine to Brooklynites .<br />
MOMINETTE<br />
I love stopping in for breakfast, or<br />
just a glass of wine to wind down<br />
and hang out. They have a wonderful<br />
oyster selection.<br />
ARCHIE’S BAR & PIZZA<br />
Archie’s is always so solid. Their<br />
pizza and quality of service are<br />
consistently good. The cozy, nofrills<br />
atmosphere is right up my<br />
alley.<br />
983<br />
983 is an awesome hybrid of<br />
diner, bar and café. They have<br />
really good burgers and strong<br />
coffee. 983’s Classic Cob is one<br />
of my all-time favorites.<br />
CEVICHE (TOP)<br />
AND THE MEZCAL<br />
MARGARITA (RIGHT)<br />
ARE EXAMPLES OF<br />
HOW DANNY MENA<br />
(LEFT) BRINGS A<br />
NEW TWIST TO<br />
THE TRADITIONAL<br />
LONCHERIA STYLE<br />
AT HIS NEW CAFÉ.<br />
FARO<br />
As far as nice restaurants in Bushwick<br />
go, Faro is my top pick. I<br />
love to go with my wife—it’s a<br />
great date spot. They offer classic,<br />
well-made Italian food. Pastas<br />
are spot-on!<br />
Danny Mena spent time in the<br />
kitchens of Blue Hill and The<br />
Modern before opening his<br />
traditional Mexican restaurant,<br />
Hecho en Dumbo in 2007.<br />
He and his team quickly outgrew<br />
the space and relocated to lower<br />
Manhattan in 2010. Continuing to<br />
grow, Mena opened a 40-seat contemporary<br />
Mexican café in Brooklyn called La<br />
Loncheria in 2017 with co-owner Oscar<br />
León Bernal. Based on the traditional<br />
luncheonettes of Mexico, the café’s menu<br />
houses staples like tortas with marinated<br />
porchetta, tacos with grilled ribeye, and<br />
stuffed chile relleno.<br />
SALLY ROOTS<br />
This is a fun little haunt with awesome<br />
rum drinks and a smoked<br />
and grilled jerk chicken I keep<br />
coming back for. The place just<br />
calls to you and is always really<br />
hard to leave. I have spent many a<br />
late night here.<br />
KATIE BURTON<br />
80 APRIL <strong>2018</strong> FOODNEWSFEED.COM
Convenience<br />
never tasted<br />
this good!<br />
Award winning<br />
chef-inspired<br />
gratins take your<br />
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4 No prep, save time and labor cost<br />
4 Maintain perfect shape every time<br />
4 Long holding time - over 1 hour!<br />
4 Attractive price point<br />
4 Premium European flavor<br />
4 Non-GMO, clean label<br />
Premium Gratins available in 8 unique flavor profiles:<br />
Broccoli & Cheese | Cream & Cheese | Mushroom & Cheese<br />
Sundried Tomato & Mozzarella | Cheddar & Truffle | Chipotle & Onion<br />
Rosemary & Thyme | Sweet Potato with Cream & Cheese<br />
347 Main St., Bedminster, NJ 07921<br />
908.375.8566 | www.russethouse.com