Eatdrink Waterloo & Wellington #1 June/July 2018

The LOCAL food and drink magazine serving Waterloo Region, Wellington County & Area

The LOCAL food and drink magazine serving Waterloo Region, Wellington County & Area


You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.

Issue #W1 | <strong>June</strong>/<strong>July</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

FREE<br />

eatdrink<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Our<br />

Premiere<br />

Issue<br />

for Kitchener,<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong>, Cambridge,<br />

Guelph & Area<br />

The Lancaster<br />

Smokehouse<br />

Barbecue & Blues<br />


A Conversation with<br />

Anita Stewart<br />

& Chefs Jason Bangerter,<br />

Arron Carley, Benjamin Lillico,<br />

Brian McCourt & Eric Neaves<br />


Little Louie’s Burger Joint<br />

& Soupery<br />

Retro, Refreshed, in Cambridge<br />

Rosé-Coloured Glasses<br />

The Trending Wine for Summer<br />

Let’s Get Grilling<br />

Recipes from The Cooking Ladies<br />

Serving <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region & <strong>Wellington</strong> County<br />


2 | <strong>June</strong>/<strong>July</strong> <strong>2018</strong> — Premiere Issue<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Our town sounds as<br />

beautiful as it looks<br />

Discover Stratford’s Summer Music<br />

visitstratford ca

eatdrink<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

eatdrinkmagazine<br />

@eatdrinkmag<br />

eatdrinkmag<br />

Think Global. Read Local.<br />

Publisher<br />

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca<br />

Food Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Editorial Consultant Andrew Coppolino<br />

Copy Editor Kym Wolfe<br />

Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca<br />

Terry Lynn “TL” Sim – TL@eatdrink.ca<br />

Finances<br />

Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca<br />

Graphics<br />

Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy<br />

Writers<br />

Jane Antoniak, Darin Cook, Andrew<br />

Coppolino, Mark Kearney, Gary<br />

Killops, Bryan Lavery, George Macke,<br />

Chris McDonell, Tracy Turlin<br />

Photographers Steve Grimes, Nick Lavery<br />

Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349<br />

Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6<br />

Website<br />

City Media<br />

Printing<br />

Sportswood Printing<br />

© <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Inc. and the writers. All rights reserved.<br />

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />

or on <strong>Eatdrink</strong>.ca is strictly prohibited without the written permission<br />

of the Publisher. <strong>Eatdrink</strong> has a printed circulation of 20,000<br />

issues published six times annually. The views or opinions expressed<br />

in the information, content and/or advertisements published in<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> or online are solely those of the author(s) and do not<br />

necessarily represent those of the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes<br />

submissions but accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material.<br />


eatdrink.ca<br />

A generous<br />

barbecue meat<br />

platter from<br />

The Lancaster<br />

Smokehouse<br />

includes ribs,<br />

beef brisket,<br />

chicken wings<br />

and sides of grits, beans and cornbread.<br />

Photo courtesy The Lancaster Smokehouse<br />

The Ultimate Family Fun Weekend<br />

Ontario Garlic & Artisan Market<br />

featuring over 60 vendors<br />

• Exclusive Tastings pairing artisanal<br />

cheeses with wines, beers and spirits<br />

• Cooking Demonstrations<br />

• Educational Forums<br />

• Live Entertainment<br />

September 8th & 9th<br />

Stratford Rotary Complex, 353 McCarthy Road<br />

Admission $10/day or $15 for 2-day pass<br />

Children 12 & under free<br />

Free parking and bike valet service<br />



Growing the highest quality<br />

certified organic vegetables<br />

for restaurants and homes<br />

for over 25 years<br />

519-393-6497<br />

www.soiledreputation.com<br />

RR<strong>#1</strong> Sebringville ON

Contents<br />

Premiere Issue | #W1 | <strong>June</strong>/<strong>July</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

Publisher’s Notes<br />

Beer<br />

Local Commitments<br />

Welcome to <strong>Eatdrink</strong>!<br />


6<br />

33<br />

A Toast to Spring<br />

A Shoulder Season Six-Pack<br />


33<br />

Food Writer at Large<br />

Food Day Canada <strong>2018</strong><br />

A Conversation with Anita Stewart<br />


8<br />

8<br />

Wine<br />

Rosé-Coloured Glasses<br />

The Trending Wine for Summer<br />


36<br />

Restaurants<br />

Barbecue and Blues<br />

The Lancaster Smokehouse<br />


14<br />

Retro, Refreshed<br />

Little Louie’s Burger Joint & Soupery<br />


18<br />

Culinary Retail<br />

Dealing With Dragons<br />

truLOCAL Focuses on the<br />

Meat of the Matter<br />


22<br />

The BUZZ<br />

14<br />

18<br />

40<br />

22<br />

Books<br />

Foodie Fiction: Beach Reads<br />

Novels about Food, Kitchens,<br />

Chefs & Restaurants<br />

Reviews by DARIN COOK<br />

40<br />

Recipes<br />

Let's Get Grilling<br />

by Phyllis Hinz and Lamont Mackay<br />

Review & Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN<br />

42<br />

The Lighter Side<br />

Food for Comfort<br />


46<br />

Culinary Community Notes<br />

26<br />

36<br />


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Looking to renovate, rejuvenate or restore? Let us reveal the<br />

creative process and introduce inspired ideas to help…<br />

Give your dreams a place to live.<br />

25 Manitou Dr #2G, Kitchener<br />

519-893-4050<br />

www.briconcontracting.com<br />

info@briconcontracting.com<br />

149 Manitou Dr, Kitchener<br />

519-894-1991<br />

www.kwcountertop.com<br />

info@kwcountertop.com<br />

44 Otonabee Dr, Kitchener<br />

519-741-1500<br />

www.blackstonecabinetry.ca<br />


6 | <strong>June</strong>/<strong>July</strong> <strong>2018</strong> — Premiere Issue<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Publisher’s Notes<br />

Local Commitments<br />

Welcome to <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />


This issue of <strong>Eatdrink</strong> has been<br />

percolating for a number of years. It<br />

is truly exciting to see our <strong>Waterloo</strong><br />

Region & <strong>Wellington</strong> County edition<br />

finally come to fruition. We will be publishing<br />

a new issue every other month, distributed<br />

in print throughout this region and available<br />

everywhere online. For those of you who are<br />

getting your first glimpse of our magazine,<br />

we have been publishing in London, Stratford<br />

and a large swath of Southwestern Ontario<br />

— between Goderich on Lake Huron and<br />

Port Stanley on Lake Erie — for more than a<br />

decade. In that time, we have celebrated a rich<br />

treasure trove of local chefs and restaurants,<br />

farmers and artisans of every stripe, wineries,<br />

breweries, distilleries and so many facets of<br />

food and drink. Our goal, with the help of<br />

local friends and experts, is to do the same<br />

here. It is crystal clear that<br />

there is no shortage of good<br />

stories to tell, and I believe<br />

we're well on our way with this issue.<br />

Andrew Coppolino has crossed paths with<br />

members of our <strong>Eatdrink</strong> team over the years,<br />

and made strong and positive impressions. His<br />

ongoing work publishing <strong>Waterloo</strong>RegionEats.<br />

com stands out, and we are looking for exactly<br />

that kind of inquisitive and entertaining<br />

writing that promotes local food culture. I was<br />

thrilled that Andrew was open to working with<br />

us, and you'll see his first contributions in two<br />

restaurant profiles in this issue. Perhaps less<br />

obvious is his work with our Buzz column,<br />

which serves as our clearinghouse for all sorts<br />

of culinary news and tidbits. This compilation<br />

is actually a group effort, but we wouldn't take<br />

this task on without local people on the ground<br />

on behalf of this magazine.<br />

I will be clear that we have an agenda. We<br />

promote restaurants and encourage dining<br />

out. We like businesses that support local<br />

suppliers. We advocate buying quality food<br />

and beverages for home consumption. We<br />

believe that a strong, local and sustainable<br />

eatdrink.ca<br />

food system is integral to our physical health<br />

and our economic well-being. Knowing where<br />

our food comes from makes sense, on local<br />

and global levels and encourages responsible<br />

stewardship of our land and resources.<br />

Getting to the farm gate and buying directly<br />

isn't feasible for everyone, sellers or buyers.<br />

Farmers' markets are wonderful, and there are<br />

many other purveyors that connect us with<br />

farmers, fishers, coffee growers and the like in<br />

positive ways. We are glad to support them.<br />

I should add that local and ethically-sourced<br />

food usually tastes better! The thought that<br />

goes into the process also tends to encourage<br />

creativity, and innovators excite us too. But<br />

sometimes simplicity and traditional methods<br />

are just perfect. We celebrate all of that.<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> does not publish reviews. We write<br />

about businesses we like and ignore the rest.<br />

That said, our resources are<br />

finite and we can only fit so<br />

many stories into an issue. If<br />

you are doing good things, you are on our list<br />

of potential stories for future issues. We look<br />

forward to a longstanding relationship with<br />

our readers, and our advertisers. We do NOT<br />

sell our stories. If we lose the trust of our<br />

readers, they are gone, and in a short time, we<br />

will be gone too. We look forward to creating<br />

thousands of new fans, and being here for a<br />

long time. And we are so pleased to get started!<br />

We also are far more than the magazine<br />

that you are holding in your hand. If you are<br />

reading this online, you know that already.<br />

Our website includes everything we print,<br />

and more. Stories are easy to share, and we<br />

keep an extensive inventory of back issues<br />

available, in full. We are also very active on<br />

Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. Please join<br />

us there. We look forward to you being part of<br />

the <strong>Eatdrink</strong> conversation.<br />

CHRIS McDONELL founded <strong>Eatdrink</strong> in 2007.

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Remember when you<br />

wished you could fly?<br />

Wish Granted.<br />

Experience Amazing<br />

The <strong>2018</strong> Lexus<br />

NX 300, Turbo.<br />

all in pricing from $46,222. 50 *<br />

3131 KING STREET EAST, KITCHENER | 519 748-9668<br />


*<strong>2018</strong> Lexus NX 300 all in price from $46,222.50 includes Freight/PDI $2,045.00, tire stewdardship fee $17.50, air tax $100,<br />

OMVIC $10. Other taxes, licensing fees extra. Dealer may sell for less.

8 | <strong>June</strong>/<strong>July</strong> <strong>2018</strong> — Premiere Issue<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Food Writer at Large<br />

Food Day Canada <strong>2018</strong><br />

A Conversation with Anita Stewart<br />


Anita Stewart is the University<br />

of Guelph’s first food laureate,<br />

president of Food Day Canada, a<br />

cookbook author, and a culinary<br />

activist. She has been highlighting the<br />

diversity of Canadian terroir with Food<br />

Day Canada, an annual celebration of our<br />

homegrown cuisine. The first event was held<br />

on August 2nd, 2003, when Stewart<br />

launched The World’s Longest<br />

Barbecue to support the cattle<br />

and beef industry, which had<br />

been affected by cross border<br />

sanctions due specifically to the<br />

BSE crisis (mad cow disease).<br />

The event was larger and more<br />

widespread than anyone could have<br />

imagined, with participants from across<br />

Canada, as well as Canadians living abroad.<br />

Since then Food Day Canada has evolved into<br />

an annual mid-summer celebration held on<br />

the Saturday of the August long weekend.<br />

Some of my favourite restaurants participate,<br />

like The Rich Uncle Tavern, Fork and Cork,<br />

Bauer Kitchen and Borealis Grille & Bar<br />

in Kitchener, Langdon Hall in Cambridge,<br />

Miijidaa, Borealis Grille & Bar and The Wooly<br />

(Woolwich Arrow Pub) in Guelph, Buca,<br />

Boralia and Edulis in Toronto, and The Red<br />

Rabbit, The Bruce and Mercer Kitchen in<br />

Stratford, and Abruzzi in London. Here is<br />

a brief look at a few participating Food Day<br />

Canada chefs.<br />

Three years ago chef Eric Neaves, a graduate<br />

of Stratford Chefs School, met Robert and<br />

Dorota Zablocki, who convinced him and his<br />

wife to quit their jobs in London and head<br />

for K-W to open what would become the<br />

farm-to-table inspired, 200-seat<br />

Fork and Cork. Neaves’ annual<br />

Taste the Season 4-course tasting<br />

menu is terroir-driven and runs<br />

for the three weeks leading up to<br />

Food Day Canada. After meeting<br />

Anita Stewart in Stratford Neaves<br />

became an advocate for Food Day,<br />

and this will be his fourth Food Day<br />

Canada menu, an accomplishment of which he<br />

is proud. Chef has been focusing on shifting<br />

the concept of what a ‘proper plate’ should look<br />

like. He has been bringing more vegetables to<br />

the forefront on his menus since his daughter<br />

was born. Last year he planted 15 kinds of<br />

vegetables (including six tomato varietals),<br />

four kinds of berries, and about 20 different<br />

herbs. Digging in his backyard garden is part of<br />

his love of everything food and has deepened<br />

his understanding of what a healthy ecosystem<br />

looks like. Neaves tells me the concept of a<br />

Canadian restaurant is something we are all<br />

continuing to define and evolve.<br />

Chef Benjamin Lillico of The Rich Uncle<br />

Tavern and Chef Brian McCourt, Culinary<br />

Director of The Rich Uncle Tavern and of<br />

Graffiti Market in Kitchener, share an ethical<br />

and sustainable culinary philosophy, caring<br />

about the provenance of food and the way it<br />

is grown or raised. Lillico was named to the<br />

Ontario Hostelry Institute’s Top 30 Under 30<br />

in 2015 and captained Junior Culinary Team<br />

Canada at the 2016 Culinary Olympics in<br />

Chef Eric Neaves of Fork and Cork

Chef Benjamin Lillico of The Rich Uncle Tavern<br />

Photo: Revel Photography<br />

Erfurt, Germany. He joined The Berlin (now<br />

The Rich Uncle Tavern) from Langdon Hall. The<br />

new iteration pays homage to the brasseries<br />

and taverns of yesteryear with menus<br />

focused on live-fire fare and shareable snacks.<br />

Lillico’s menus are based on the availability<br />

of the best fresh and local ingredients from<br />

small, innovative farms and top-quality food<br />

producers. Chef McCourt has been involved<br />

in Food Day Canada for the past three years;<br />

while up at Oviinbyrd in Muskoka they ran a<br />

five-course tasting menu that was all sourced<br />

locally. Last year at Bauer Kitchen they featured<br />

a menu that was based around farmers and<br />




WIN<br />

A GUIDED<br />

FOOD<br />


FOR 4 PEOPLE.<br />


Chef Brian McCourt of The Rich Uncle Tavern<br />

Photo: Revel Photography<br />

Enter and Purchase Tours Online:<br />


10 | <strong>June</strong>/<strong>July</strong> <strong>2018</strong> — Premiere Issue<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

farmers’ markets in the area. This year The Rich<br />

Uncle Tavern will be doing something similar,<br />

but elevated, running a week-long menu with<br />

the option to have a five-course tasting menu.<br />

The chefs are excited to dig into Food Day<br />

Canada and create something meaningful for<br />

the K-W area this year.<br />

Jason Bangerter, Executive Chef at<br />

Langdon Hall, is an influential culinary<br />

maverick on the national cooking stage, with<br />

international credentials, and is a dedicated<br />

advocate for sustainability and seafood<br />

conservation. Bangerter cemented his<br />

reputation at the Auberge du Pommier in midtown<br />

Toronto, and later at the O&B Canteen<br />

and LUMA at the TIFF Bell Lightbox. In 2015<br />

Bangerter was awarded the International<br />

Rising Chef Award from the illustrious Relais<br />

& Châteaux. Named Best Farm to Table Chef<br />

2017 by Canada’s 100 Best, Bangerter is wellknown<br />

for his terroir-driven Ontario cuisine,<br />

using the estate’s acreage as inspiration for<br />

the seasonal menus. Langdon Hall is Feast<br />

ON certified and 80% of its products come<br />

from Ontario. This is complemented by an<br />

extensive wine cellar. Wine is a large part of<br />

the restaurant’s credo and prestige, with over<br />

1,000 VQA and globally-sourced bottles on<br />

A Conversation with Anita Stewart<br />

What does being the first-ever food laureate at<br />

the University of Guelph mean to you, and what<br />

responsibility do you feel that it entails?<br />

Anita Stewart (AS): Firstly, it’s an honour<br />

to hold the title. The responsibility to tell the<br />

University’s story in the larger Canadian context<br />

is very real. No matter where a person eats,<br />

there’s a U of G food story nearby, whether it’s<br />

that honey you like on your buttered toast, or<br />

the ketchup on your grilled sausage.<br />

Can you tell us about the Culinary Archives at<br />

Guelph University and how the McLaughlin Library<br />

Canadian Culinary Arts Collection came to be?<br />

AS: The Culinary Archives really began with<br />

an enormous donation of cookbooks from the<br />

late Una Abrahamson who was once a food<br />

editor. She was a serious collector and some<br />

of her books are irreplaceable. That was the<br />

foundation, but since then other food writers/<br />

scholars have donated their archives, letters<br />

and cookbooks... hundreds of them. They are<br />

an incredible resource for anyone studying<br />

food/agriculture/cultural history.<br />

What role did you play as culinary advisor to the<br />

Governor General?<br />

AS: We developed The Nation’s Table Awards<br />

a few years ago when Michaëlle Jean and<br />

Jean-Daniel Lafond were at Rideau Hall. Only<br />

one set of awards was presented before Their<br />

Excellencies returned to private life and since<br />

then no one has picked up the challenge. Pity!<br />

Despite your many contributions to the Canadian<br />

culinary culture and narrative, were you surprised<br />

to be named to the Order of Canada in 2012?<br />

AS: Absolutely! I felt like I needed to pinch<br />

myself to make sure I wasn’t dreaming. It was<br />

amazing, and to be in the company of some<br />

of the others, who I admire so much, like Paul<br />

Martin and Scotty Bowman and Eric Peterson,<br />

was absolutely incredible.<br />

How would you like to see Food Day Canada<br />

evolve in the future?<br />

AS: I’d like it to be more inclusive. Our chefs are<br />

brand advocates for local ingredients and I know<br />

that Canada is already celebrating them on that<br />

weekend since the harvest is in everywhere.<br />

What do you think is the best way for people<br />

to understand and articulate the concept of a<br />

Canadian cuisine?<br />

AS: It begins in the farms, forests and oceans<br />

and ends on our tables when we use these<br />

ingredients in our own special fashion ... be<br />

it an Italian pasta or Indian dhal or good oldfashioned<br />

British roast beef.<br />

After authoring numerous cookbooks, do you have<br />

something new on the horizon?<br />

AS: On May 16 we are heading to the<br />

Beard House to cook in<br />

Manhattan. That’s taking<br />

up a lot of my energy.<br />

Mind you, I’m always<br />

dreaming.<br />

This is Food Day’s<br />

15th anniversary ...<br />

you’ll remember<br />

it began in<br />

2003 with the<br />

World’s Longest<br />

Barbecue. So<br />

this year it’ll<br />

be a reunion<br />

of sorts and an<br />

anniversary party.

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: Executive Chef The Jason Local Bangerter Food & Drink of Langdon Magazine Hall<br />

its extensive list. Langdon Hall was recently<br />

named No. 5 in the <strong>2018</strong> list of Canada’s 100<br />

Best Restaurants.<br />

On his involvement with Food Day Canada<br />

and its evolution over the last few years<br />

Bangerter says, “I have always had a soft spot<br />

for Anita Stewart. She is a true pilgrim of<br />

Canadian food and food history. I was<br />

one of the first chefs to participate and<br />

proud to do so. I have been fortunate<br />

to receive a gold award each year for<br />

my menu. More chefs have come<br />

to participate over the years and I<br />

believe the country as a whole has<br />

really embraced the event and what<br />

it stands for. The last few years I have<br />

been invited with the other gold award<br />

winners to cook at the James Beard<br />

House in NYC, showcasing a menu<br />

featuring a taste from each winning<br />

chef. It is a wonderful collaboration<br />

of Canadian talent boasting beautiful<br />

ingredients, spirits, wines and beer from<br />

our nation. In 2016, three Canadian Relais<br />

& Chateaux property chefs were gold award<br />

recipients. In 2017 we collaborated on a<br />

combined menu for Food Day Canada, each<br />

of us serving the same menu featuring each<br />

other’s dishes: In British Columbia at the<br />

Wickininnish Inn, in Quebec at Manoir Hovey,<br />

and in Ontario at Langdon Hall. Food Day<br />

Canada not only encourages Canadians to<br />

source and cook Canadian ingredients, but it<br />

encourages Canadians to look at new Canadian<br />

foods and to learn and cook together. It is an<br />

inspiring, powerful movement”.<br />

Premiere Issue — <strong>June</strong>/<strong>July</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 11<br />

Chef Arron Carley of The Bruce Hotel<br />

in Stratford is another proponent of Food<br />

Day Canada. He originally heard about the<br />

movement through a friend. Carley has been<br />

on mission to imbue and personalize the<br />

Canadian culinary landscape with his own<br />

style and a narrative receptive to the local<br />

terroir and seasons. About his and chef Gilead<br />

Rosenberg’s mission to reimagine Canadian<br />

cuisine by redefining and reinterpreting<br />

“Canadiana” on their own terms, Carley says<br />

that he believes every day is Food Day at The<br />

Bruce. “I know that it sounds corny, but it’s<br />

true. Every day we celebrate the landscape<br />

of this beautiful nation and strive to use<br />

and showcase more organic and local foods.<br />

It’s our ethos to try to only use Canadian<br />

ingredients, and we have stayed that course<br />

for almost three years. We still have so<br />

much undiscovered territory and endless<br />

opportunity in Canada.”<br />

Food Day Canada will be held this year<br />

on Saturday, August 3. It is an opportunity<br />

for Canadians from coast to coast to coast<br />

to come together in a national collective<br />

celebration to showcase our time-honoured<br />

culinary traditions and the rich culinary<br />

Executive Chef Arron Carley of The Bruce Hotel in Stratford<br />

Photo Nick Lavery<br />

heritage. The goal as stated by Food Day<br />

Canada “is primarily for celebrating,<br />

appreciating, and supporting local farmers,<br />

fishers, food producers, chefs and researchers<br />

and, above all, our home cook.”<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> Food Editor and Writer at Large BRYAN<br />

LAVERY brings years of experience in the restaurant<br />

and hospitality industry, as a chef, restaurant owner and<br />

consultant. Always on the lookout for the stories that<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> should be telling, he helps shape the magazine<br />

both under his byline and behind the scenes.

Stratford is<br />

more than<br />

great theatre<br />

visitstratford.ca<br />

“A fun place to shop<br />

for housewares and gifts!”<br />

We stock a large selection of your<br />

favourite colours and accessories.<br />

Coming soon ...<br />

Mulberry — Fiesta’s Colour of the Year!<br />

WATSON’S<br />


84 Ontario St. Stratford<br />

watsonsofstratford.com<br />

519-273-1790<br />

stratfordchef.com<br />


NOW<br />

<strong>2018</strong> SEASON | Join us for<br />

hands-on cooking classes<br />

and learning experiences<br />

devoted to dedicated home<br />

cooks and food-lovers.<br />

OVER 60 CLASSES | Trade Secrets,<br />

Skills Building, Advanced Cookery,<br />

Wine and more | Class details and<br />

registration on our website.<br />

T 519.271.1414 E admin@stratfordchef.com

sum<br />

A restaurant inspired by<br />

local ingredients.<br />

Run by workers.<br />

Owned by workers.<br />

Shared by the Community.<br />

celebrating 122 years in stratford<br />

7 Days a Week<br />

Reservations Recommended<br />

64 <strong>Wellington</strong> St, Stratford<br />

redrabbitresto.com<br />

519.305.6464<br />

@redrabbitresto<br />

sum<br />

global tapas with local ingredients<br />

fresh cocktails<br />

Perfect for dinner before or snacks after the show<br />

Wednesday–Sunday from 5pm<br />

85 Downie St, Stratford<br />

(next to Avon Theatre)<br />

519.305.8585<br />


14 | <strong>June</strong>/<strong>July</strong> <strong>2018</strong> — Premiere Issue<br />

Restaurants<br />

Barbecue and Blues<br />

The Lancaster Smokehouse in Kitchener<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />


A<br />

12-seat restaurant in an<br />

unassuming strip plaza in<br />

north <strong>Waterloo</strong>, started in<br />

2009 led to the development<br />

of one of Southwestern Ontario’s<br />

premier barbecue and blues venues. The<br />

Lancaster Smokehouse in Kitchener’s<br />

Bridgeport neighbourhood was the<br />

brainchild of barbecue aficionado Chris<br />

Corrigan, founder and CEO of The<br />

Lancaster Co. Group of Companies.<br />

Corrigan left the world of office<br />

equipment behind him to test his mettle<br />

in the smoky, carbonized pit-master<br />

realm of competition barbecue in the<br />

2000s. It turned out he was pretty darn<br />

good and won some gold. That success<br />

inspired Corrigan and his wife Cathy<br />

to put their hearts and souls — and<br />

smokers — into a bricks-and-mortar<br />

business, and <strong>Waterloo</strong>’s Hog Tails Bar-B-Que<br />

was born. They sold Hog Tails in 2015 (it has<br />

since closed), but only after having expanded<br />

operations and taken over The Lancaster Public<br />

House, a dog-eared Kitchener tavern that<br />

was once an 1840s railroad hotel. Before the<br />

Smokehouse opened in the fall of 2011, they<br />

knew the new venture needed a lot of work.<br />

“It was a huge challenge. We knew that<br />

Putting a local spin on traditional southern cooking techniques<br />

and using quality ingredients from nearby farms has propelled The<br />

Lancaster Smokehouse into the culinary stratosphere.<br />

The Lanc was an iconic landmark as one of<br />

the oldest, if not the oldest, continuously<br />

operating taverns in <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region, but the<br />

building was very tired. We knew there were<br />

going to be a lot of infrastructure challenges<br />

and when we needed to do one aspect of<br />

reconstruction, something else had to be done<br />

first,” Chris Corrigan says.<br />

The investments of time and money, and<br />

the perseverance, paid off. Eight years later The<br />

Lancaster Smokehouse, “The Lanc” in homage to<br />

its public-house history, is going strong, and has<br />

maintained much of the original infrastructure<br />

it had 100 years ago. With the creaky wooden<br />

floor and the pervasive and appetite-arousing<br />

smoky aromas, Corrigan says the busy<br />

restaurant is virtually always at capacity.<br />

He acknowledges that the business came<br />

on board at the very peak of the southern<br />

The Lancaster Smokehouse delivers! Their fullyequipped<br />

food truck can be booked for catering<br />

backyard parties or corporate events.

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

barbecue trend, but it has been the solid<br />

management with his daughter and<br />

co-owner Caitie Agostinho, and corporate<br />

chef and co-owner Tim Borys, along with<br />

consistently good food that has allowed<br />

them to grow and prosper. “We caught<br />

the wave, there’s no doubt,” he says of<br />

barbecue’s popularity. “It has subsided<br />

somewhat though it is still a very popular<br />

style of cuisine. I’m also glad to say that<br />

we were able to take the ingredients and<br />

traditions of <strong>Waterloo</strong> County fare and<br />

draw on them in ways that complement<br />

the southern barbecue scene.”<br />

Despite the market having shifted<br />

toward other styles of food and dining,<br />

The Lancaster Smokehouse keeps<br />

southern barbecue in high demand<br />

by keeping things simple, honest and<br />

plentiful, Corrigan says. It’s a full-service<br />

casual restaurant featuring southern<br />

barbecue dishes that are made from<br />

scratch in-house, with the best local<br />

ingredients they can get their hands on,<br />

and using traditional southern methods.<br />

And Corrigan knows from the U.S.<br />

south and low country: he travels there<br />

regularly searching for inspiration and<br />

new ideas and flavours, as well as hitting<br />

every nook-and-cranny of a venue that is<br />

cranking out the blues.<br />

“We continue to explore new foodways<br />

through our travel and research in the<br />

southern U.S. but at the same time, my<br />

heritage keeps our so-called <strong>Waterloo</strong><br />

County roots close to how we want to<br />

develop our cooking style,” he says. That<br />

means the injection of an occasional<br />

Mennonite country cooking approach to<br />

the Smokehouse menu. “We are known in<br />

the community for barbecue, but there is<br />

a tremendous commonality between the<br />

two styles of food. I believe that people are<br />

trending away from fine dining but do not<br />

want the processed food available in either<br />

fast food or fast casual. We can fill that<br />

void and want to continue to educate our<br />

customers about our goals.” He’s cautious,<br />

though, and ensures that the menu<br />

doesn’t veer too far from the southern<br />

sweet spot of pulled pork, chicken, ribs,<br />

brisket and jambalaya. “If we diverged,<br />

we’d see some customer push-back.”<br />

The menu is classic southern U.S. fare,<br />

from pork rinds, fried green tomatoes,<br />

and gumbo to an intensely hot Nashville-<br />

Premiere Issue — <strong>June</strong>/<strong>July</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 15<br />

The Lanc's reputation was built on authentic southern barbecue<br />

with sides like cheesey grits and cornbread but the large menu<br />

also includes entrées such as fried chicken and jambalaya.

16 | <strong>June</strong>/<strong>July</strong> <strong>2018</strong> — Premiere Issue<br />

Owners Cathy and Chris Corrigan, above, lead an<br />

exceptional team. From top right, their daughter Caitie<br />

Agostinho is a co-owner and HR Manager; Tim Borys<br />

is co-owner and Corporate Chef; Neil Nunnamaker is<br />

Manager of Catering & Events; and Martha Borys is<br />

Master Baker for Crumb Bakehouse, Lancaster Co.'s<br />

in-house bakery and retail outlet.<br />

style “chikan shak” chicken sandwich and<br />

fried shrimp po’ boy. Pulled pork rules, as<br />

does the brisket, and (in limited availability)<br />

Flintstone-esque Texas short ribs, along with<br />

sides such as jalapeno hush puppies, cheesy<br />

grits and braised collards. The smokers run<br />

virtually all night and, according to Corrigan’s<br />

estimates, in the course of a week the kitchen<br />

prepares about 100 pork shoulders and<br />

another 100 briskets. They will go through<br />

approximately 25,000 racks of ribs in a year.<br />

The bar features only Ontario craft beers<br />

and wines and has a southern-inspired<br />

cocktail list. The sense of local pervades<br />

the outfit’s philosophy. “We believe that<br />

small business is the foundation of the local<br />

economy, and family-owned and operated<br />

small business is the cornerstone. That’s what<br />

we are. We employ about 60 full- and parttime<br />

staff. Hard working family members, as<br />

we like to call them. We own the real estate<br />

and made a commitment to the community<br />

and the city by reviving and growing a thriving<br />

business in a tough industry. Our taxes, wages<br />

and spending stay in the community. That, I<br />

believe, speaks to the importance of local jobs<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

and the economy,”<br />

says Corrigan.<br />

Live music is a<br />

barbecue foundation<br />

at the Lanc too, and<br />

it’s an important<br />

component of the<br />

business model.<br />

It takes place on<br />

Wednesday and Friday<br />

nights. Corrigan<br />

himself plays a mean<br />

blues guitar and says,<br />

“We want to provide<br />

local musicians<br />

with a venue for<br />

performances rooted<br />

in the genre.” There’s<br />

a Smokehouse<br />

food truck and the<br />

restaurant’s catering<br />

operation is wideranging<br />

and busy.<br />

Inside The Lanc the<br />

new Crumb Bakehouse<br />

is overseen by baker<br />

Martha Borys. It<br />

serves the restaurant’s internal needs and has<br />

a growing retail presence too. The Langdon<br />

Hall alumna makes a variety of pies, cakes,<br />

cookies, bars, milk buns, baguettes, beignets,<br />

cornbread, pastries, and breads of all sorts.<br />

The casual ambiance is enhanced by live music twice a<br />

week. An upstairs room is available for private parties.

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Sip. Savour. Stroll.<br />

Soak up the sun and<br />

experience the warm lake<br />

breeze on one of Elgin’s<br />

many outdoor patios.<br />

Recreate the delicious taste of Lancaster Smokehouse<br />

at home with authentic BBQ sauces and rubs.<br />

Whether it is office equipment or barbecue,<br />

Corrigan has always been keen to ensure<br />

customers have a great experience. “We’re<br />

committed to quality local ingredients<br />

from great suppliers, inspired menu<br />

items, authentic southern and <strong>Waterloo</strong><br />

County cooking, as well as well-trained and<br />

knowledgeable staff able to demonstrate<br />

southern hospitality.” The Lanc, he adds,<br />

continues to work with local food producers<br />

and to promote what he calls “our fantastic<br />

and independent grassroots food movement.”<br />

The business has carved a niche in the<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong> Region culinary space — one that he<br />

says stills surprises him after a decade, given<br />

the wide range of food and restaurant choices<br />

available to customers.<br />

“I never thought it would be this big,”<br />

Corrigan says with a hint of incredulity.<br />

“I’m proud and delighted that we feed and<br />

entertain a lot of people every day.”<br />

The Lancaster Smokehouse<br />

574 Lancaster Street West, Kitchener<br />

519-743-4331<br />

lancsmokehouse.com<br />

monday-saturday from 11:30 a.m.<br />

SoLo on Main<br />

Windjammer Inn<br />

Kettle Creek Inn<br />

ANDREW COPPOLINO is a Kitchener-based writer<br />

and broadcaster. He holds a Master’s degree in English<br />

literature from the University of <strong>Waterloo</strong> and has taught<br />

at UW, the universities of Guelph, Toronto and Toledo,<br />

Conestoga College, and at the Stratford Chefs School.<br />

Andrew has written about food for a large number of<br />

magazines, is co-author of Cooking with Shakespeare<br />

(Greenwood Press) and is food columnist with the Kitchener<br />

Post and CBC Radio Kitchener-<strong>Waterloo</strong> 89.1 FM. He is<br />

publisher of <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region Eats (waterlooregioneats.<br />

com) a longstanding online resource dedicated to food,<br />

dining, restaurants, chefs, sustainability and agriculture. In<br />

addition to writing for this magazine, Andrew also serves as<br />

a regional <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Editorial Consultant.<br />

Visit savourelgin.ca<br />

to plan your next<br />

culinary adventure in<br />

Elgin County!

18 | <strong>June</strong>/<strong>July</strong> <strong>2018</strong> — Premiere Issue<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Restaurants<br />

Retro, Refreshed<br />

Little Louie’s Burger Joint & Soupery in Cambridge<br />


Having operated Lily Ruth’s<br />

bistro in downtown Galt<br />

for many years, Steven<br />

Allen and his wife and<br />

business partner Rachelle Matlow<br />

decided to close up shop and focus on<br />

their catering contracts, as a way to<br />

reduce the 100-hour weeks that can<br />

characterize the restaurant industry.<br />

But they never expected what happened<br />

soon after they opened Little Louie’s<br />

Burger Joint & Soupery.<br />

“We thought that opening a catering<br />

company full-time would free us up<br />

most of the week for our daughter.<br />

Since the building we bought was a<br />

former burger joint, we thought we’d<br />

stay true to the history and would have<br />

been happy selling 20 or so burgers each<br />

lunch. Today, for instance, we sold 300. We<br />

never imagined that evolution. It’s crazy,”<br />

Allen says.<br />

Granted, achieving this kind of numbers<br />

in a venue that seats about 30 inside, with<br />

a few picnic tables outside, took a couple of<br />

years. But it still surprised them, and it’s<br />

why the Cambridge-based chef and culinary<br />

entrepreneur regularly uses the restaurant<br />

Little Louie's offers a vintage vibe with fresh made-to-order menu<br />

items including the popular "Build Your Own Burger" option<br />

vernacular “getting slammed” to describe his<br />

daily schedule from time to time. What with<br />

overseeing Little Louie’s and the catering<br />

enterprises, Allen and Matlow do get pretty<br />

busy.<br />

Open since 2010 the small burger joint<br />

— and joint is the right word — is curiously<br />

tucked in amid residences on Clyde Road<br />

between Franklin Boulevard and Elgin Street<br />

North in Cambridge. It’s a wonderfully quirky<br />

decades-old<br />

building, if not<br />

simply a slap-dash<br />

The wonderfully<br />

quirky decades-old<br />

building, tucked into a<br />

residential Cambridge<br />

neighbourhood, is the<br />

result of bolting two old<br />

Dairy Queen buildings<br />

together to create a<br />

popular hotspot for<br />

burgers and shakes<br />

back in the 1970s.

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Premiere Issue — <strong>June</strong>/<strong>July</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 19<br />

Some specials appear once and are never repeated, while<br />

others develop a cult following and inspire repeat visits<br />

through notices posted on Facebook. At the left is the<br />

Corny Corn Dog Burger, a beef patty topped with corn and<br />

corned beef hash with mayo on an egg bun, garnished<br />

with an all-beef corn dog, served with grilled Gilespie's<br />

construction, apparently with sections of two<br />

old Dairy Queen buildings lined up and bolted<br />

together. That fits precisely and exactly with<br />

the character you’d want in a joint that carries<br />

such an improbable name — and which makes<br />

a mean hamburger, some mighty fine fries,<br />

and malted milkshakes among other dishes.<br />

The building, nestled amidst some scruffy<br />

trees and sitting adjacent to a gravel parking<br />

lot, is reminiscent of the old-school roadside<br />

burger joints that used to open each spring on<br />

the highways and byways heading north into<br />

Ontario cottage country, where the cicadas<br />

drone, the soil gets rocky and the forest<br />

starts to become boreal. It’s an image that<br />

Allen appreciates as he details the heritage<br />

of the wooden cottage-like structure. “This<br />

used to be the place to go back in the 1970s<br />

for burgers and shakes. It was<br />

called Henning’s, and has been<br />

a plethora of places since,”<br />

he says. “As for the name, my<br />

father was Big Louie, and I<br />

was always called Little Louie<br />

growing up.”<br />

Any re-run of the episode<br />

of Food Network’s You Gotta<br />

Eat Here!, which featured<br />

Little Louie’s a few years<br />

ago, results in an influx of<br />

Garden corn on the cob with housemade herb butter.<br />

Middle photo shows the Louisiana Chicken and Sausage<br />

Soup with cornmeal dumplings. To the right is a dessert<br />

special: dulce de leche-coated pink lady apples covered<br />

in dark and white chocolate with peanut brittle and white<br />

chocolate pretzels.<br />

new customers. That ups the culinary ante:<br />

cooking up a thousand top-quality burgers<br />

weekly is no little feat. It means putting in<br />

some time to achieve the standard expected<br />

by his customers. So the key to success, Allen<br />

intimates, is being there pretty much day to<br />

day. “We’re there to manage the business,” he<br />

says. Allen has a world of experience, from<br />

cooking in Europe to current duties teaching<br />

in the culinary program at Conestoga College.<br />

He has also operated kitchens in vessels<br />

sailing high into Canada’s north, and all of<br />

that experience has been narrowed down now<br />

to checking local farm stores and farm-gate<br />

sales to determine how the menu will look.<br />

As well, Allen is an expert forager, and those<br />

wild discoveries of ramps and fiddleheads<br />

— perhaps pheasant’s back mushroom too —<br />

Little Louie's Owner/Chef Steve Allen<br />

with John Catucci from The Food<br />

Network's You Gotta Eat Here! show.

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The blackboard menu<br />

always features special<br />

creations. A recurrent<br />

favourite is the "Cape<br />

Breton Surf-n-Turf Burger"<br />

(right) featuring a beerbattered<br />

lobster tail on a<br />

beef patty with coleslaw and tartar sauce, on an egg bun,<br />

garnished with a beer-battered lobster claw fritter.<br />

The Jerk Burger features a banana<br />

pancake and a beef patty topped with<br />

jerk chicken, pineapple salsa and<br />

mayo on an egg bun.<br />

The Montreal Smoked Meat Burger<br />

features a matzo ball and Montreal<br />

smoked meat on a beef patty topped<br />

with onions on an egg bun, garnished<br />

with a battered deepfried pickle.<br />

will quite often find their way onto the menu. “There are a lot<br />

of ways we do local,” he says.<br />

As for Little Louie’s menu, it appears on chalkboards and<br />

changes regularly. The ordering process is Build Your Own<br />

Burger: you go to the counter, take a little clipboard, pencil<br />

in the several steps, and add your name. Your choices are<br />

dine-in or take-out, followed by the burger size you want, or<br />

a double-beef slider selection. (DiPietro’s, a local butcher just<br />

around the corner, grinds the meat daily.)<br />

From the changing burger menu, you choose from 20 or<br />

so condiments, cheeses, and sauces, including fried egg,<br />

olives, sprouts, basil pesto, mesquite and mango. Sautéed<br />

mushrooms will add earthy flavour and release their own<br />

heady juices. Gouda cheese provides a smoky note and the<br />

humble tomato slice offers a slight acidity to enliven the<br />

mixture, along with a few pickled banana peppers. The bread<br />

to hold it all together is a soft, fresh challah-like egg bun<br />

with a hint of sweetness, and enough body in its crumb<br />

to corral everything. There are chicken breast, turkey, and<br />

veggie burger choices, as well as a couple of sandwiches<br />

and five or six homemade soups. “We’ve done hundreds<br />

of soups,” Allen says. He’s from Cape Breton, so he knows<br />

how to put together a chowder, chunked up properly with<br />

seafood. Some eastern European in his lineage also gives him<br />

a particular acuity with things like borscht.<br />

Homemade pastries like tarts, bars, and squares come<br />

from the kitchen as well, and are popular with the regulars.<br />

The old-fashioned malted milkshakes derive from malt<br />

that is used to make a simple syrup with vanilla. It’s taken<br />

some experimentation to get the balance right, but it forms<br />

the base for the vanilla, strawberry and chocolate shakes.<br />

“Then there are the crazy ones,” Allen says. “If I happen to<br />

see Frosted Flakes on sale, I will buy four boxes and make a

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Frosted Flake Shake. The most popular shake<br />

is the End of the Bar Shake, using pieces of<br />

the dessert bars we bake. For instance, we<br />

might do our version of the Oh Henry! Shake<br />

with the bar trimmings. We’ll sell 20 of them<br />

in a day.”<br />

While it all makes for a very busy kitchen,<br />

not to mention the catering jobs that<br />

they cover, Allen says he strives to source<br />

ingredients from around him. “The local<br />

aspect of food here is phenomenal. As our<br />

restaurants grow in Cambridge and <strong>Waterloo</strong><br />

Region, our access to nearby farmers and such<br />

a range of products is fantastic. I use Oakridge<br />

Acres for many ingredients. The Gerbers are<br />

great, and it saves me from having to go to<br />

10 different farms.” It can also mean some<br />

unusual and even exotic local protein: on a<br />

recent menu was emu soup. “I had some emu<br />

in from a local emu farm and made burgers.<br />

With the leftover meat, I made some sausage<br />

and put it in a soup. Surprisingly, it sold like<br />

crazy,” he adds.<br />

The quirkiness of the Little Louie’s building<br />

and its setting, the retro and nostalgic pylon<br />

sign, and that gravel parking lot all harken<br />

back to burger joints of the past. But the<br />

drive to Cambridge for burgers, fries and<br />

shakes is a lot shorter than to Muskoka, and<br />

the flavour is a vacation in itself. He says his<br />

regular customers know the lay of the land<br />

at Little Louie’s, citing a group who make the<br />

trip every Monday. “They want to be among<br />

the first to test out the burger of the week.<br />

I could put anything on a burger — grilled<br />

octopus and corn chutney — and they would<br />

eat it.”<br />

Little Louie’s Burger Joint & Soupery<br />

234 Clyde Road, Cambridge<br />

519-623-8500<br />

facebook.com/louiesburger<br />

monday–friday 11 am – 8 pm<br />

Sample delicious local eats,<br />

meet inspiring producers and<br />

marvel at the tempting array<br />

of fresh and artisanal edibles.<br />

From farm to table, pork to pies<br />

to pints, discover more<br />

in Perth County!<br />

restaurants<br />

farm gates<br />

ANDREW COPPOLINO is a Kitchener-based writer<br />

and broadcaster. In addition to an extensive background<br />

as a teacher, published author and writer for a variety of<br />

magazines, he is food columnist with the Kitchener Post<br />

and CBC Radio Kitchener-<strong>Waterloo</strong> 89.1 FM. Andrew is also<br />

the publisher of <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region Eats (waterlooregioneats.<br />

com) a longstanding online resource dedicated to food,<br />

dining, restaurants, chefs, sustainability and agriculture.<br />

In addition to writing for this magazine, Andrew serves as a<br />

regional <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Editorial Consultant.<br />

food shops<br />

Find us, follow us!<br />

#DiscoverMore #PerthCounty<br />

@PerthCoTourism<br />


22 | <strong>June</strong>/<strong>July</strong> <strong>2018</strong> — Premiere Issue<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Culinary Retail<br />

Dealing With Dragons<br />

truLOCAL Focuses on the Meat of the Matter<br />


Marc Lafleur describes his<br />

company in a succinct and highly<br />

energetic fashion. His clarity<br />

and confidence come across as<br />

a sincere belief in the value of his company,<br />

but he's also had his presentation fire-tested<br />

in a dramatic forum. Lafleur and his business<br />

partner Greg Quail pitched a $100,000<br />

investment in truLocal, their online local<br />

meat-selling business, on CBC Television's<br />

Dragon's Den show last year (although the<br />

episode aired in January <strong>2018</strong>). And things<br />

couldn't have gone much better.<br />

sources fish from a Marine Stewardship Council<br />

(MSC) certified fishery. All products have no<br />

added hormones and are antibiotic-free. Each<br />

shipment is packed in dry ice, so even if a<br />

customer is away at time of delivery, they will<br />

still find everything frozen when they get home.<br />

All boxes include free shipping. The concept<br />

is not overly complicated, and truLOCAL had<br />

already built an encouraging customer base<br />

before the Dragon's Den appearance.<br />

What makes good television doesn't always<br />

make for good business. Although the current<br />

panel of "dragons" are not generally as meanspirited<br />

as in some earlier years, part of the<br />

entertainment value of Dragon's Den seems to<br />

depend upon a few presenters wilting under<br />

pressure or having their proposals shot down<br />

as untenable or even foolish. Even when<br />

deals are agreed upon on air, they frequently<br />

fall apart before formal arrangements are<br />

made. In the case of truLOCAL, however,<br />

the onscreen chemistry led to a successful<br />

partnership. Which is why a link to that<br />

episode is prominently featured on the slick,<br />

user-friendly truLOCAL website.<br />

Spoiler Alert: Lafleur and Quail asked for<br />

TruLOCAL partners Marc Lafleur and Greg Quail went to<br />

CBC Television's Dragon's Den show to seek investment in<br />

their company. The episode aired in January <strong>2018</strong>.<br />

TruLOCAL offers a monthly subscription<br />

service to deliver local meat (and meat-related<br />

products such as seafood) right to the customer's<br />

home. Customers "build a box" online, choosing<br />

products from identified local Ontario farms,<br />

such as Top Sirloin Steaks from West Grey<br />

Premium Beef (located just north of Kitchener),<br />

Cheese & Leek Chicken Sausage from Hidden<br />

Root Farm (in Harley ON), or Pork Back Ribs<br />

from Townsend Butchers, which is supplied by<br />

Miller Land and Livestock of Jarvis ON. Seafood<br />

such as wild-caught Alaskan sockeye salmon is<br />

supplied by Kitchener's Caudle's Catch, which<br />

Michelle Romanow (left), a tech entrepreneur and one<br />

of the "dragons" on Dragon's Den, purchased 10% of<br />

truLOCAL and remains an active investor and consultant.

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Premiere Issue — <strong>June</strong>/<strong>July</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 23<br />

Welcome to a carefully designed collision<br />

of historic character and contemporary style.<br />

Tucked beneath our iconic hotel,<br />

TWH Social is Kitchener's<br />

destination for great food,<br />

community and conversation.<br />

20 Queen Street South, Kitchener<br />

519 745 4321<br />

Toll Free 1 800 265 8749<br />


24 | <strong>June</strong>/<strong>July</strong> <strong>2018</strong> — Premiere Issue<br />

$100K for 7% of their business, and got a<br />

flurry of offers. They parlayed that interest<br />

into selling a 10% stake for their ask, split<br />

between Joe Mimran (Joe Fresh founder)<br />

and Michele Romanow, a tech entrepreneur<br />

and venture capitalist with strong success<br />

in online retailing. Later, Mimran dropped<br />

out of the deal, but Romanow took the 10%<br />

investment herself. "We wanted Michelle’s<br />

experience in the digital marketplace," says<br />

Lafleur, noting that the partnership has<br />

brought significant dividends. With the influx<br />

of cash, TruLOCAL was able to double staff<br />

from four to eight people, and is now up to<br />

ten. A move from Milton to a bigger facility<br />

in Cambridge also came this year. Ongoing<br />

consultation is leading to further plans for<br />

expansion. The key component to the success<br />

of truLOCAL, however, remains quality<br />

products and a convenient delivery system.<br />

"Times are changing," says Romanow.<br />

"People want to feel more connected to the food<br />

they're buying. The guys at truLOCAL have<br />

done an awesome job connecting consumers to<br />

amazing local farms and suppliers."<br />

Lafleur is enthused about the products they<br />

sell, but sees the challenges clearly. "All butcher<br />

shops do what we do," he says. "The food system<br />

is broken, though, and most people are buying<br />

A recent truLOCAL informal team get-together<br />

their meat at a grocery store. The butcher shop's<br />

customers understand the difference in quality<br />

meat, but many consumers have never tasted it.<br />

Those are the people we need to reach."<br />

"Local farms have difficulty getting their<br />

products to customers," adds Lafleur. "That's<br />

where we step in. We find the supplier, we vet<br />

them for quality, and then we allow them to<br />

reach the entire province."<br />

TruLOCAL offers a few organic products,<br />

but that is not the focus. Lafleur states that<br />

their goal is to be rated Number One for quality<br />

and availability. Grocery store bargain hunters<br />

will find prices high, but those accustomed to<br />

paying for quality will find prices fair. Certainly<br />

the convenience is worth something too,<br />

and all orders ship free. Customers can skip<br />

a month when they want without penalty, or<br />

increase their order when they want.<br />

Customers asked for a sugar-free, nitratefree<br />

bacon, and truLOCAL found a producer<br />

to create that for them. You won't find that<br />

bacon anywhere else, but it's not for everyone,<br />

if you love the traditional taste of bacon. The<br />

100% grass-fed beef bone broth they offer,<br />

however, has been immensely popular. There's<br />

also great demand for more seafood, including<br />

wild -caught yellow lake perch and pickerel<br />

from the Great Lakes. And at this time of year<br />

especially, truLOCAL sees large demand for<br />

their suggested "BBQ Boxes," with one curated<br />

for seafood, another for steak lovers, and a<br />

variety pack. As always though, customers can<br />

customize their purchase as they choose.<br />

TruLOCAL<br />

226-929-1280<br />

www.trulocal.ca<br />

TruLOCAL products are individually vacuum-sealed<br />

(above) for convenience, then packed in dry ice (below)<br />

for home delivery, so they stay frozen even all day.<br />

CHRIS McDONELL has worn a number of hats over<br />

three decades in the publishing industry, including graphic<br />

artist, writer, editor, sales rep and delivery person. As<br />

Publisher/Owner of <strong>Eatdrink</strong>, which he founded in 2007, he<br />

utilizes all of those skills.

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Premiere Issue — <strong>June</strong>/<strong>July</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 25<br />

Sandwich Brewing Co. | Windsor<br />

History pours out of this place,<br />

on the Barrels Bottles & Brews Trail.<br />

Uncover behind-the-scenes development and production<br />

of dozens of area distilleries and breweries. Tap rooms and<br />

tasting lounges welcome you with open bottles.<br />

Get your BBB Passport and info at: barrelsbottlesbrews.ca<br />

#BARRELTRAIL | #BREWERYQG | visitwindsoressex.com

26 | <strong>June</strong>/<strong>July</strong> <strong>2018</strong> — Premiere Issue<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The BUZZ<br />

Culinary Community Notes<br />


This column consists of regional culinary<br />

information, including a large scoop of<br />

local news and inside information. There<br />

is no charge to be included here, and we<br />

encourage chefs, restaurateurs, brewers, fundraisers,<br />

culinary artisans, farmers — and everyone else with<br />

information to share — to send us details. Short and<br />

sweet! We want to include as many items as possible.<br />

See the end of this column for contact details.<br />

Kitchener<br />

The Berlin, the much-heralded restaurant in<br />

downtown Kitchener, has closed. It will re-open as<br />

The Rich Uncle Tavern, offering gastropub fare,<br />

according to owners The Ignite Restaurant Group.<br />

Executive chef Ben Lillico came on board after The<br />

Berlin was opened by chef Jonathan Gushue (who<br />

recently left for Fogo Island, Newfoundland). He<br />

says the menu will focus on shareables and small<br />

plates. The plan is to have the new concept open<br />

and serving by <strong>June</strong>. www.richuncletavern.ca<br />

A few blocks west of The Uncle on King Street, San<br />

Francisco sandwiches has closed. The window is<br />

emblazoned with “La Cucina” — but it has nothing<br />

to do with the new pizza and pasta place with the<br />

red awning in the west end called La Cucina, a sister<br />

restaurant to the Guelph Italian upscale casual<br />

restaurant. Kitchener’s version has wood-fired<br />

pizza, house-made pastas and other simple Italian<br />

fare. lacucinakitchener.com<br />

The Ignite Restaurant Group is also in the process<br />

of construction on Red Circle Brewing Co., Graffiti<br />

Market and Red Circle Coffee Co. at Catalyst137<br />

in Kitchener. Co-owner Neil Huber tells us that<br />

they have other projects that they’re looking to<br />

announce in the near future.<br />

Belmont Village, nestled between downtown<br />

Kitchener and uptown <strong>Waterloo</strong>, continues to grow<br />

as a self-sustaining food destination — and that<br />

quality is only amplified with Arabella Park Beer<br />

Bar clocking in at No. 46 among the top 50 bars in<br />

Canada, according to canadas100best.com. Chef<br />

Byron Hallett combines innovation with classic<br />

and modern ideas to create playful and shareable<br />

cuisine that pairs well with beer. The cocktail that<br />

you should try there is a pint of Cascade Brewery<br />

barrel-aged triple ale with marionberry and Meyer<br />

lemon. arabellaparkbar.com<br />

Other notables in Belmont Village are restaurant<br />

landmarks like Café Rugantino and Janet Lynn’s<br />

Bistro. Check out The Culinary Studio for cooking<br />

classes, Rawlicious for plant-based and gluten-free<br />

cuisine. The smartly appointed Wilhelm’s Café +<br />

Bar (the name draws inspiration from a mysterious<br />

lost bust of Kaiser Wilhelm 1 ) is a stellar spot for a<br />

meal and drinks. The Belmont Bistro, located next<br />

door to gourmet coffeehouse Berlin Bicycle Café, is<br />

where Chef Brandon Gries, a Stratford Chef School<br />

alumnus, creates dishes from scratch, taking no<br />

shortcuts and changing the menu seasonally.<br />

Restaurateur Zafar Quazi was born in Bangladesh,<br />

studied civil engineering in Ukraine, and worked<br />

six years running restaurants in Great Britain<br />

before coming to Canada. In Scotland, he met his<br />

Ukrainian wife Olena, and their first Canadian<br />

endeavour was in Brantford, followed by the<br />

Tandoori Grill in Fergus. Great success came with<br />

his celebrated Raja Fine Indian Cuisine in Stratford.<br />

Three years ago, Quazi set his sights on Belmont<br />

Village. The Raja serves upscale Indian cuisine<br />

in sophisticated and elegant surroundings by a<br />

knowledgeable, well-trained staff. The service is<br />

white linen, deferential and friendly. After being<br />

seated, diners are offered crisp, crunchy poppadum<br />

served alongside a dazzling selection of vibrantly<br />

coloured condiments, ranging from sweet to sour to<br />

spicy, to get the taste buds tingling. rajakitchener.ca<br />

Mark <strong>June</strong> 25 on your calendar for a mid-day tasting<br />

menu event. It’s the inaugural Signatures: A Taste of<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong> Region’s Best. The lunchtime taste testing<br />

and fundraiser for Parkinson Society Southwestern<br />

Ontario takes place at Catalyst137 on Glasgow<br />

Street, Kitchener, from 11:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong> Region restaurants and catering companies<br />

share their signature dishes, and participants<br />

include B Elegant Catering & Event Planning, Big<br />

Jerk, Bobby O’Brien’s Irish Pub, Chef D, Gusto &<br />

Beckford Catering, Liaison College of Culinary<br />

Arts, Mamma D’s Delicious Eats, McCabe’s Irish<br />

Pub, Meals without Madness, Reid’s Chocolates,

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Shawerma Plus, Taste of Seoul, The Park Hill, The<br />

White Rabbit, Watchtower Restaurant, Wooden<br />

Boat Food Company and ZOUP. Tickets are only $20<br />

and include food and entry into multiple draws and<br />

giveaways. parkinsonsociety.ca/event/signaturestaste-test-waterloo-regions-best<br />

From restaurateur Darryl Haus and Grand Trunk<br />

Saloon, look for The Grand Surf Lounge to open on<br />

Ontario Street near Charles. Haus calls it a bar and<br />

lounge “with a focus on rum, big fruit-based drinks<br />

and escapism.” While he can’t quite describe the menu<br />

yet, he says it’s inspired by Polynesian pop culture. As<br />

for the entire concept, he says, “It looks pretty cool. I’m<br />

really digging it.” grandsurflounge.com<br />

Shinla Korean at King and Scott in downtown has<br />

closed. That leaves a dearth of Korean in downtown<br />

Kitchener. In the west end, four restaurants on<br />

the south side of King Street have closed (due to<br />

land appropriation for a major new residential<br />

development between Francis and Water streets).<br />

However, Rana Taste of Turkish (ranaturkish.com)<br />

still has its University Avenue location at Regina Street<br />

in <strong>Waterloo</strong>. Unity Baking (www.unitybaking.com)<br />

has moved to 1 Water Street North in Galt, Cambridge,<br />

and is scheduled to open again soon. Latina America<br />

Grocery and Eatery is now at 1120 Victoria Street<br />

North, Kitchener. Check it out for pupusas, tamales,<br />

churros and more. americalatinavariety.ca<br />

Having built a considerable reputation, the very busy<br />

Crazy Canuck (across the street from St. Jacobs<br />

Market) has added a new location in downtown<br />

Kitchener at 30 Duke Street West (the RBC tower). It<br />

often pairs up with its Apollo Cinema neighbour for<br />

movie and snack events. thecrazycanuck.ca<br />

Look for The Falls Road Pub (thefallsroadpub.ca) to<br />

open this May on Victoria Street at Lancaster. A small<br />

food and beverage hub is growing in the area. Nearby<br />

are the new Public Kitchen and Bar, Jimmy’s Lunch,<br />

Sam’s Kitchen, and Descendants Beer and Beverage<br />

Co. The cheekily named wine and charcuterie venue<br />

Swine and Vine (swineandvine.ca) has taken over the<br />

former Public space on Lancaster.<br />

The Culinary Studio’s new food venture is now open<br />

on the second floor of the Communitech building:<br />

The Well Food Co. has taken over kitchen space<br />

left behind when Google moved to its magnificent<br />

campus across the street. While not open to the<br />

public, The Well Food Co. will happily provide its<br />

catering services to the community. thewellfoodco.ca<br />

Charcoal Group offers unique dining packages.<br />

Book a chauffeured luxury stretch limousine for<br />

eight people and ride in style to a “progressive<br />

dinner” to up to five different Charcoal Group<br />

Farm to table award winning<br />

hand crafted alpine style cheese<br />

Tuesday to Friday 9am–5pm<br />

Saturday 9am–4pm<br />

Stonetown Artisan Cheese<br />

5021 Perth Line 8<br />

St. Marys ON<br />

Gift Baskets &<br />

Gift Boxes<br />

Cheese Trays<br />

Fondue & Raclette<br />

519-229-6856<br />

info@stonetowncheese.com<br />

www.stonetowncheese.com<br />

growers & creators of fine lavender products<br />


Steed & Company Lavender, part of a<br />

45-acre horse farm just outside of Sparta<br />


in our unique handcrafted lavender products<br />

ESCAPE<br />

in the wonderful scent and<br />

calming powers of lavender<br />

519-494-5525<br />

47589 Sparta Line, Sparta<br />

buds@steedandcompany.com<br />

Open Wed–Sat 10-5; Sun 12–4<br />

Mother’s Day to Dec. 19<br />

PLUS <strong>June</strong>–Labour Day: Tues 10-5<br />

www.steedandcompany.com<br />

Annual<br />

BLOOM<br />


<strong>June</strong> 16 to<br />

<strong>July</strong> 15

28 | <strong>June</strong>/<strong>July</strong> <strong>2018</strong> — Premiere Issue<br />

locations. Enjoy a different course and beverage at<br />

each stop. Suggested destinations include: Charcoal<br />

Steakhouse, dels Enoteca Pizzeria and Martini’s<br />

in Kitchener; The Bauer Kitchen, Wildcraft Grill<br />

+ Bar in <strong>Waterloo</strong>; and Beertown Public House in<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong>, Cambridge and London, and the familyfriendly<br />

Moose Winooski’s in Kitchener is also in<br />

the Charcoal Group fold. Great for company parties,<br />

celebrations or just a luxurious night out, other<br />

custom options are available. Call 519-894-0110 or<br />

go to charcoalgroup.ca/events.<br />

Foodtruckers at Breakfast Blues and Barbecues are<br />

building a bricks-and-mortar version of barbecue at<br />

the former Sing Lee Chinese Restaurant at 105 Victoria<br />

Street South, between Oak and Michael. The word is<br />

that they will be open by <strong>June</strong>. breakfastblues-bbqs.ca<br />

Meticulously designed, The Walper Hotel provides<br />

a unique, modern boutique experience. Built in<br />

1893, architects combined contemporary building<br />

technology with the best of the hotel’s heritage<br />

features during the hotel’s most recent refurbishment.<br />

The Lokal is the striking piano bar and lounge on<br />

the second floor. We enjoyed craft cocktails and<br />

conversing with friendly upbeat staff in TWH Social,<br />

the subterranean bar/bistro. Chef Jeff Ward — his<br />

business card identifies him as Chief Cook and Bottle<br />

Washer— has a culinary pedigree that includes<br />

Stratford Chefs School, Langdon Hall, Toronto’s Canoe<br />

and Auberge du Pommier, and Kitchener’s former<br />

Marisol. The menu is touted as “local ingredients<br />

done well, with a thoughtfully sourced menu focused<br />

on sustainability and diversity.” Breakfast at the<br />

Barristers Lounge is a treat. walper.com<br />

New to <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region, and about to open, is The<br />

Wooden Boat Food Company. The brainchild of<br />

Chef Thompson Tran, Wooden Boat has floated in<br />

from south Vancouver and now resides on Hurst<br />

Street alongside a couple of other food and beverage<br />

businesses, creating a small food hub. The company<br />

is a food store for authentic Vietnamese sauces and<br />

a take-away shop for banh mi, Vietnamese fried<br />

chicken, shredded rice paper salad, sticky rice and<br />

more. Says Tran, “We’re using local, sustainable highquality<br />

ingredients to make authentic Vietnamese<br />

dishes. There’s a motif from the mid-1970s, the<br />

time of the Vietnamese boat people, with black and<br />

white pictures, some memorabilia from the era,<br />

and a television playing old MuchMusic videos.”<br />

woodenboatfoodcompany.com<br />

LOT42 is a 17-acre “global flex campus” providing<br />

a unique collection of flexible spaces for use in the<br />

arts, technology, manufacturing, athletics, and<br />

community events, at 41 Ardelt Place. Expect to see<br />

more concerts and public events here, in addition to<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

private and corporate gatherings. Amongst Lot42’s<br />

partners are B•Hospitality, the owners of the<br />

Cambridge Hotel & Conference Centre, B•Elegant<br />

Catering, The Bruce Craft House restaurant and<br />

The Bruce Caboose food truck. Promising event<br />

services with “a commitment to crafting incredible<br />

guest experiences that leave a lasting impression,”<br />

here’s a great resource for your wedding, special<br />

event or festival. lot42.ca and bhospitality.ca<br />

Gilt is an open, airy and sophisticated resto<br />

with a millennial vibe in the heart of Kitchener’s<br />

Innovation District that recently celebrated the<br />

fourth anniversary. Owned by Trella White and Chef<br />

Stephanie Randall, the bar, lounge and 65-seat<br />

restaurant on the ground floor of the office tower at<br />

305 King Street West is their second venture; they<br />

also operate Cork Restaurant in Elora. Chef de cuisine<br />

Alex Janke has been at Gilt since the beginning, and<br />

incorporates his favourite Thai and Mexican flavour<br />

profiles while using local ingredients, but expect<br />

pleasant surprises. Korean Fried Chicken with honey<br />

bourbon and hoisin has a super crunchy kick. Janke<br />

serves an excellent steak tartare. Try the Curried<br />

Oxtail Gnocchi with dukkha sweet potato gnocchi,<br />

candied ginger cream, parsnip chips and curried<br />

tomato butter. giltrestaurant.ca<br />

Relish Cooking Studio has moved to its new home<br />

in downtown Kitchener at 70 Victoria Street North.<br />

relishcookingstudio.com<br />

Abe Erb Brewing Co.’s brewhouse, in the Tannery<br />

building near the corner of King and Victoria, boasts<br />

a full production facility on site, including a canning<br />

line. Part of the appeal of Abe Erb is pairing both<br />

brewing and restaurant experiences. The tongue-incheek<br />

mission statement reads “Our trifecta is the<br />

combination of beer, food and live entertainment.<br />

We take your patronage as seriously as we take our<br />

beards and moustaches.” abeerb.com<br />

Public Bar and Kitchen is a small, indie restaurant<br />

on Lancaster Street, in one of Kitchener’s oldest<br />

neighbourhoods. Chef/co-owner Ryan Murphy and<br />

partner Carly Blasutti take pride in making small,<br />

shareable plates and well-crafted cocktails. The<br />

Spanish-themed chalkboard menu changes on<br />

an almost daily basis. Think, potted foie gras and<br />

chicken liver pate with house-cured pickles and<br />

sherry gastrique or crostini of salt cod brandade with<br />

shaved Manchego and pickled shrimp banderilla.<br />

The wine list features new and old world wines and<br />

there is an all-Ontario craft beer list. kwpublic.com<br />

For more than 140 years, the Kitchener Farmers’<br />

Market has offered meat, produce, dairy products<br />

and more. Saturdays 7 am–2 pm year-round.

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Premiere Issue — <strong>June</strong>/<strong>July</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 29<br />

Upstairs, check out the International Cuisine<br />

Vendors, Tuesday–Friday 8am–3pm and Saturdays<br />

7am–2pm. 300 King Street East, with parking lot<br />

entrance on Cedar St. kitchenermarket.ca<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong><br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong> native and “Chopped Canada” champion<br />

Chef Trevor Ritchie is headed to Le Bocuse d’Or in<br />

Lyon, France, in January 2019. The George Brown<br />

culinary instructor, formerly of Benjamin’s in St.<br />

Jacobs and Langdon Hall in Cambridge, won silver<br />

in a qualifying competition in Mexico. Assisting<br />

Ritchie will be commis Jenna Reich and coach<br />

James Olberg, a Kitchener native.<br />

It took Paul Boehmer 25 years to open a second<br />

restaurant in <strong>Waterloo</strong>. The Region’s long-standing<br />

anchor of south-east Asian food, Bhima’s Warung,<br />

now has a long-awaited sister, Loloan Lobby Bar.<br />

Specializing in cocktails as well as items such as a<br />

lobster bisque Escoffier in the style of the Connaught<br />

Hotel (Mayfair, UK, not Hamilton), Loloan is located<br />

on Princess St. a block or so north of King at Dorset.<br />

“It will invoke memories, transporting guests to a<br />

place and a time of class and craft, a culmination<br />

of travels, studies, work, friendship, life and love,”<br />

Boehmer says. loloanlobbybar.com<br />

Formerly at 105 King Street North in <strong>Waterloo</strong>, and<br />

having looked a little dog-eared, Empress of India<br />

is relocating a few blocks to 34 King St. S, <strong>Waterloo</strong>.<br />

Grin and Grind Holdings, the team that developed Abe<br />

Erb, has created Settlement Co. in uptown <strong>Waterloo</strong>.<br />

The urban café blends old-world, traditional craft with<br />

modern Scandinavian elements. It is part café, coffee<br />

roaster, social hub and cocktail lounge, featuring<br />

contemporary café cuisine and offering a toast and<br />

waffle bar. settlementco.ca<br />

Baker Sasa Duricin has opened Legacy Bakery,<br />

specializing in eastern European pastries and breads,<br />

on Weber Street East at Montgomery. Favourites are<br />

the burek and the classic Russian Hat, a layered cake<br />

and cream pastry with coconut. legacybakery.ca<br />

Located in the busy food and beverage area near<br />

Wilfrid Laurier University, Lana’s Lounge opened<br />

in April with the goal of being a local-music based<br />

lounge and a full-service restaurant geared to<br />

people who want a quiet venue to enjoy food and<br />

drink. lanaslounge.ca<br />

Check out the 88-year-old Harmony Lunch in<br />

uptown <strong>Waterloo</strong> replete with its silver-circle<br />

swivel chairs and a menu of home-style classics<br />

that include a Fried Chicken Sammy, The Pig Mac,<br />

Award Winning<br />

Artisan Cheese<br />

Come Experience Our World!<br />

Visit our cheese shop and sample our<br />

unique handmade cheeses.<br />

See and learn about how cheese is made.<br />

Enjoy the scenery on our 3-generation family farm.<br />

Group tours are available by reservation.<br />

MON-SAT 9-5<br />

445172 Gunn's Hill Rd, Woodstock, ON<br />

519-424-4024<br />

www.gunnshillcheese.ca<br />

Introducing Simple Monthly Meat Delivery.<br />

ORDER<br />

ONLINE<br />

Monthly Meat & Seafood Delivery<br />

(226) 929-1280<br />

trulocal.ca<br />

Enter Code EATDRINK10<br />

to receive 10% OFF

30 | <strong>June</strong>/<strong>July</strong> <strong>2018</strong> — Premiere Issue<br />

Vegetarian Bun-pology and Grilled Cheese on white<br />

bread with processed cheese. The landmark has<br />

been revitalized by The Fat Sparrow Group which<br />

also operates the ever-popular Taco Farm that<br />

supports local farms and farmers. Be sure to try the<br />

crispy fired cod with cabbage crudito, farm sauce,<br />

cilantro and Jake’s garlic chilli sauce. Also worth<br />

a visit is the 1870s-livery-stable-turned-casualfine-dining-restaurant<br />

Marbles, and ten-year-old<br />

Nick & Nat’s Uptown 21, now an event venue, offers<br />

lunch service from 11:30-3, Tuesday-Friday.<br />

Ethel’s Lounge is the go-to-place for jazz and<br />

blues and al fresco drinking and dining. Highly<br />

recommended by are the nightly specials,<br />

standouts being Ethel’s burgers and signature<br />

meatloaf served with beef- mushroom gravy and<br />

scalloped potatoes. ethelslounge.com<br />

Cambridge<br />

Undoubtedly a gem in the crown of <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region<br />

dining, Langdon Hall Country House Hotel and Spa<br />

has staked its claim among the best in Canada. It<br />

was recently selected as the No. 5 Best Restaurant by<br />

Canada’s 100 Best. Executive chef Jason Bangerter<br />

credits the entire Langdon staff. “What a wonderful<br />

achievement to have the passion and hard work of the<br />

entire team recognized for this distinction. We are all<br />

thrilled at this, and I personally am honoured to work<br />

with such talented individuals.” langdonhall.ca<br />

Cambridge Farmers’ Market, started around 1830,<br />

is one of the oldest farmers’ markets in Canada. The<br />

40 Dickson Street location includes a one-storey<br />

structure built in 1887 and a two-storey structure<br />

built in 1896. Learn what’s in season and experience<br />

everything the market has to offer through an<br />

interactive market map and comprehensive vendor<br />

directory, and stay up-to-date on the latest market<br />

events and programs at cambridgefarmersmarket.ca.<br />

Open Saturdays from 7am to 1pm year-round, and now<br />

open Wednesdays from 8am to 1pm until October 3.<br />

The downtown Hespeler Stables Farm to Fork<br />

Bistro, a breakfast and lunch venue, has closed<br />

after only a few months, as has The Loose Grape on<br />

the main drag in Preston.<br />

After eight years operating Napa Grill & Wine Den at<br />

the corner of Park Hill & George St., Sandra and Dirk<br />

Boer have rebranded the restaurant as The Parkhill.<br />

Notable changes include the addition of Head Chef<br />

Denis Hernandez and Sous Chef Graham Barr and<br />

a new menu. Classic food with a modern twist is the<br />

theme, with local fresh ingredients and everything<br />

made in house, including the butter. New website<br />

and Facebook page coming but for now go to fb.com/<br />

Napa-Grille-and-Wine-Den-139328466114875<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Guelph & <strong>Wellington</strong> County<br />

Long before it was a full-fledged movement,<br />

restaurateur Bob Desautels began procuring<br />

local ingredients for his restaurants. His culinary<br />

ensemble, The Neighbourhood Group, has supported<br />

local farmers and fishers, brewers and winemakers<br />

for many years. Desautels and his son Court<br />

Desautels are proponents of Feast ON, a criteriabased<br />

certification program run by Ontario Culinary<br />

Tourism Association that recognizes businesses<br />

committed to sourcing Ontario grown and made<br />

food and drink. The program helps diners identify<br />

and experience restaurants (ontarioculinary.com/<br />

restaurants) that champion our Ontario food system,<br />

using both verification and enforcement mechanisms<br />

to maintain its integrity. Among the Neighbourhood<br />

Group’s Feast ON-certified restaurants are The<br />

Woolwich Arms & Arrow, better known as The<br />

Wooly, a pub/restaurant located in a 115-year-old,<br />

beautifully restored Victorian home; Miijidaa Cafe<br />

& Bistro (from the Ojibway language meaning “let’s<br />

eat”) and The Borealis Grille & Bar in Kitchener and<br />

in Guelph. neighbourhoodgroup.com/restaurants<br />

Supporters of local food and drink should also<br />

check out Transparent Kitchen, a platform that<br />

connects diners to restaurants, their suppliers<br />

and their local food and sustainability initiatives.<br />

Customers can visit restaurant websites and see<br />

photos of beautifully prepared dishes, then click<br />

for more information about the menu, the farms<br />

and producers where the ingredients come from,<br />

and the restaurants’ and chefs’ philosophy. Local<br />

participants now making their kitchens “transparent”<br />

include Guelph’s Atmosphere Cafe + etc at 24 Carden<br />

Street, The Neighbourhood Group’s Miijidaa Cafe &<br />

Bistro (with Chef Shea Robinson) and Borealis Grille<br />

in both Kitchener and Guelph. transparentkitchen.ca<br />

Chocolats Favoris, a Canadian artisanal chocolate<br />

shop and creamery, opened a location at Clair<br />

Marketplace, 20 Clair Rd. W., in April. An in-store<br />

station is dedicated to dipping soft-serve ice cream<br />

in 12 exclusive chocolate flavours, and take-home<br />

offerings include canned chocolate fondue and fine,<br />

handcrafted chocolates. chocolatsfavoris.com/en<br />

A craft beer-inspired five-course dinner with<br />

beverage pairings will launch EatStreet: A Brewers’<br />

Feast at Old Quebec Street, <strong>June</strong> 16, from 7:00pm–<br />

midnight. Featuring the talented chefs of Bin23,<br />

Delhi Street Bistro, Elizabeth Street Eatery, KB<br />

Sweets & Royal Electric, and with Taste of Craft<br />

cheese pairings, local foods will be featured, paired<br />

with a cider or craft beer from Heartwood Cidery,<br />

<strong>Wellington</strong> Brewery, Royal City Brewing Company,<br />

Sleeman and Brothers Brewing Company. This

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

sit down harvest table dinner for 100 will include<br />

animated discussions about the food and the chefs.<br />

Following the dinner, the venue will open for a postdinner<br />

street party with Ecelctic Vinyl Orchestra<br />

(EVO), beer garden style with all Guelph breweries<br />

present, with more drinks, even more food and a<br />

whole lot of dance. Get tickets at eventbrite.ca/e/<br />

eatstreet-a-brewers-feast-tickets-46010979077<br />

The 13th annual Taste Real Guelph <strong>Wellington</strong> Local<br />

Food Fest will be held <strong>June</strong> 24, 11am–4pm. Watch food<br />

skills demos and pick up fresh, delicious and real local<br />

food. Learn about mushroom growing and foraging,<br />

sausage making, fermenting and composting, backyard<br />

chickens, cider making and fish butchery through<br />

free workshops offered throughout the day. This was<br />

the winner of Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance’s 2015<br />

“Event of the Year.” Ignatius Jesuit Centre, 5420 Hwy<br />

6 North, Guelph/Eramosa. Admission is a minimum<br />

donation of $5 per person, $10 per family. wellington.<br />

ca/en/business/tr-localfoodfest.aspx<br />

Lighthouse Lemonade is “Summer in a Bottle” ... all<br />

year round! This all-natural heritage cordial has deep<br />

Maritime roots with the recipe dating back to before<br />

Confederation (1867). It has only six ingredients and is<br />

crafted in small batches in a solar-powered facility in<br />

something<br />

for<br />


Cambridge Farmers’<br />

Market<br />

Saturday Year Round<br />

7:00am - 1:00pm<br />

Wednesday Seasonal Market<br />

8:00am - 1:00pm<br />

<strong>June</strong> 6 - October 3<br />

www.cambridgefarmersmarket.ca<br />



Stratford<br />

10 George St. W.<br />

519-271-3271<br />

Kitchener<br />

725 Belmont Ave. W.<br />

519-208-2811<br />


Discover Heather's<br />

Incomparable Journeys<br />

The Slow Roads of Ireland<br />

Sept 5–24, <strong>2018</strong>. Maximum 18 travellers.<br />

Call for info and to reserve your spot!<br />

Heather’s Journeys are small groups handcrafted<br />

to enjoy culture, history, architecture, scenery and<br />

unique experiences. We travel the slow roads to<br />

charming tidy towns, music-filled pubs, ancient<br />

tombs and castles. We take time to enjoy leisurely<br />

walks, gourmet food and welcoming country<br />

hotels. You won’t find another itinerary like it.<br />

www.heathersincomparablejourneys.ca<br />

For any and all of your travel needs<br />

519-473-8591<br />

Heather Wilkinson<br />

31 Nottinghill Gate, Suite 203,<br />

Oakville ON TICO#50013851<br />

Travel<br />

Industry Council of Ontario<br />

Fergus. Drink, bake, cook — the options are limitless<br />

for lemonade. lhlemonade.com<br />

The Townships & Beyond<br />

The 1870s Baden Hotel, also known as EJ’s<br />

Restaurant and Tavern, has closed and is re-opening<br />

as The Baden Brewery and Restaurant. <strong>Waterloo</strong><br />

resident Abhay Patel says that a brewpub will be<br />

built on-site and will eventually include a retail store<br />

for merchandise and suds. thebadenbrewery.com<br />

Farm tours are available at Stonetown Cheese,<br />

an on-farm cheese plant and purveyor of Swiss<br />

mountain-style cheeses. Hand-crafted by master<br />

cheesemaker Ramon Eberle using unpasteurized<br />

milk from farmers Hans and Jolanda Weber’s herd<br />

of Holsteins, Eberle creates nearly a dozen types of<br />

Alpine-inspired cheese. 5021 Perth County Line 8,<br />

St. Marys, stonetowncheese.com<br />

A highlight of the Oxford County Cheese Trail — an<br />

enjoyable culinary experience exploring every facet<br />

of cheese — is a visit to Gunn’s Hill Artisan Cheese<br />

outside Woodstock. Sample a large outstanding<br />

variety of handcrafted cheeses or book a tour.<br />

gunnshillcheese.ca and tourismoxford.ca<br />

The Open Kitchen program is a direct result of building<br />

the Stratford Chefs School kitchens at 136 Ontario<br />

Street. The school now welcomes the public, not just<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

as dinner patrons, but also as active learners. Public<br />

cooking classes has, in return, opened the door for new<br />

community partnerships. Bradshaws & Kitchen Detail<br />

is the <strong>2018</strong> Open Kitchen Season Partner, providing<br />

students with the knives, wine glasses, and kitchen<br />

tools used during the classes, as well as take-home<br />

gifts offered with select classes. The annual Stratford<br />

Chefs School’s Long Table Dinner, affectionately<br />

called the friend-raising event, takes place Sunday,<br />

September 9. stratfordchef.com<br />

Perth County Slow Food Market goes outdoors<br />

starting Sunday, May 6. Enjoy Perth County’s local<br />

produce, meats, breads, cheese, coffee, pastries,<br />

preserves, prepared foods, handmade artisanal<br />

products, and gluten-free and vegan options in<br />

Stratford’s Market Square from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.<br />

on Sundays until Thanksgiving. Parking is free on<br />

Sunday in downtown Stratford.<br />

Smoke afficianados are invited to Cigar Night<br />

in Stratford for a celebratory roast beef dinner<br />

(with three cigars included) on Thursday, <strong>June</strong><br />

21. Sponsored by Stratford’s The Buzz Stop and<br />

importer Kretek, the event will take place at the<br />

Army Navy Air Force club, 151 Lorne Ave. E, in<br />

Stratford. Tickets are $40; call 519-273-6768.<br />

Celebrate pork in Stratford, in <strong>June</strong>. Take the<br />

Stratford Bacon & Ale Trail, a self-guided tasting<br />

tour of delicious pork and beer-inspired treats<br />

at selected restaurants and pubs. Stratford also<br />

welcomes the Ontario Pork Congress (<strong>June</strong> 20-21),<br />

Canada’s largest pig trade show, which brings<br />

together all segments of the pork industry to<br />

showcase new technologies, get educated about the<br />

latest issues and celebrate a healthy, vibrant sector.<br />

visitstratford.ca/culinary-adventures#trails<br />

Summer season at Stratford’s The Red Rabbit means<br />

the return of the pre-theatre menu (fixed price) and<br />

to being open 7 days a week. Their sister location,<br />

Okazu 85 Downie, is Stratford’s hot spot for delicious<br />

chef-inspired cuisine and the perfect late-night stop<br />

for grown-ups. Join them for dinner to taste global<br />

fusion prepared with local inspiration or stop by for<br />

innovative, fresh cocktails shaken or stirred by the<br />

fabulous staff until the wee hours. redrabbitresto.<br />

com and OkazuSnackBar.com<br />

We want your BUZZ!<br />

Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca and/or<br />

connect directly with our Social Media Editor Bryan<br />

Lavery at bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Submission deadline for the next issue is <strong>July</strong> 5.

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Premiere Issue — <strong>June</strong>/<strong>July</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 33<br />

Beer<br />

A Toast to Spring<br />

A Shoulder Season Six-Pack<br />


With the weather finally becoming<br />

spring-like, it’s time to bask in<br />

some free vitamin D, and some<br />

tasty vitamin B from the talented<br />

craft brewmasters of Southwestern Ontario.<br />

It’s too early for sessionable lawnmower<br />

beers and we are very keen to move on from<br />

post-snow shovelling stouts; we find ourselves<br />

in a beer shoulder season. What to do and how<br />

to please your friends? May I suggest a six-pack<br />

blend of memories and summer optimism?<br />

A caveat: Even on the deck, friends don’t let<br />

friends drink premium craft beer from a can<br />

or bottle. A big part of the flavour experience<br />

comes from the nose and allows appreciation<br />

of colour when held up against the shining<br />

sun. Nonic pints or shaker glasses are great<br />

all-round glasses for most beer styles.<br />

Walkerville Road Block<br />

Doppelbock — Sure, it’s been<br />

on the shelves since February<br />

and LCBO stores are down to<br />

the last few cans. But this big,<br />

strong, German-influenced doppelbock<br />

makes a fitting farewell<br />

to a winter that lasted too long.<br />

The beer was previously<br />

marketed<br />

as Dark<br />

Winter Lager, but<br />

how boring is<br />

that? Walkerville’s<br />

marketing<br />

minds<br />

rebooted it<br />

as Road<br />

Block,<br />

in honour of the famous six-cylinder, bigwheeled,<br />

big-bodied Studebakers that were<br />

once built in Windsor and were popularly used<br />

by Prohibition-busters. Despite its bock nature<br />

and what for many will be a one-and-done 7.5<br />

per cent alcohol content, Road Block is a surprisingly<br />

smooth and fast ride past the palate.<br />

At 35 IBU, it’s not for hop-heads, meaning it’s<br />

a great introductory beer for those mistakenly<br />

stuck in the notion that fine craft beer equals<br />

bitter IPAs. $3.15 in 473 mL cans at the LCBO.<br />

Sons of Kent 8 Track XPA — Vinyl albums<br />

have come back, ditto cassette tapes. But the<br />

clunky, unloved 8-track, best remembered<br />

for playing in a non-stop loop<br />

in circa 1970s cars and seemedlike-a-good-idea-at-the-time<br />

quadraphonic home stereos,<br />

lie forgotten in junk drawers or<br />

crushed in landfills. Its memory is<br />

rekindled with this delicious Sons<br />

of Kent conversation-starter,<br />

brewed in an American pale ale<br />

style and, as the brewery itself<br />

brags, it features taste that hits<br />

you from multiple angles. In 8<br />

Track XPA the “x” is for “extra”<br />

5.7 per cent alcohol and 57<br />

IBU, and it should have<br />

broad appeal among<br />

all beer-drinking<br />

guests. $3.25 for a<br />

473 mL can at the<br />

LCBO.<br />

Continued ...

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Look for<br />

us in the<br />

LCBO!<br />


1030 ELIAS STREET, LONDON • 548-888-ALES<br />

Forked River Capital Blonde — London’s<br />

five-year-old Forked River nailed it early<br />

with this beautifully versatile blonde ale.<br />

A Canadian Brewing Award winner in its<br />

style class a year after Forked River<br />

started brewing it, Capital Blonde is a<br />

light 4.7 per cent alcohol so it can be<br />

consumed in multiples. As a brand,<br />

it benefited greatly last year from<br />

a reboot that introduced fans to<br />

a blonde-bearded hipster on the<br />

label, providing the cool vibe it<br />

deserves. Capital Blonde’s strength<br />

is not as a sessionable beer but as<br />

a food partner, paired with dishes<br />

ranging from standard barbecued<br />

hamburgers to tomato-based Italian<br />

food and spicy Mexican. This is a<br />

craft beer to have in the fridge at all<br />

times, May through September. $2.95 for a 473<br />

mL can at the LCBO, the brewery’s online store, Beer Store<br />

and select grocery stores.<br />

Grand River Brewing Tailgate Lager —<br />

Nothing says <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region like its most<br />

famous watercourse, the Grand River, and<br />

by extension, Grand River Brewing. The<br />

Cambridge craft brewer has this<br />

lager in significant distribution<br />

and, since every springtime deck<br />

gathering needs a lager within<br />

reach, why not choose this one?<br />

Tailgate Lager — it’s at the Beer<br />

Store in <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region and<br />

Guelph and LCBO — is 4.5 per cent<br />

alcohol and a not-bitter 15 IBU. Its<br />

tagline is the “beer less travelled.”<br />

Think of it as the lager equivalent<br />

of buying bread from a bakery instead of the<br />

supermarket. As with blondes, lagers like this<br />

are crowd-pleasing, and kings of the burgerpairing<br />

domain. $3.10 for a 473 mL can.<br />

Elora Wandering Monk Belgian<br />

IPA — A gold medal winner at the<br />

2017 Canadian Brewing Awards, the<br />

Elora brewer channelled his or her<br />

inner bitter monk to give us a beer<br />

to ponder and discuss. Careful<br />

sipping should reveal flavours of<br />

white grapes, blueberries, and<br />

tropical fruit. It’s a seasonal, in<br />

shareable 500 mL bottles, and at<br />

the tail end of its availability, so<br />

grab it when you see it. Wandering<br />

Monk is 8 per cent alcohol and<br />

balanced. Its IBU is unavailable.

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

It goes without saying this beer is best enjoyed<br />

in scenic Elora, but your deck is a fine second<br />

choice. $6 for a 500 mL bottle at the LCBO.<br />

Innocente Fling Golden Ale — This ale<br />

from <strong>Waterloo</strong>’s gem of a craft brewer,<br />

Innocente Brewing Co., is an easy-drinking<br />

craft beer featuring notes of orange sorbet<br />

on the nose. Do not allow your<br />

friends to draw a line between<br />

this and the Molson Golden<br />

they might’ve thought was hip<br />

when you all were in college. As a<br />

golden, Fling is an alternative to<br />

lagers, but delivers more interest<br />

than those straightforward thirst<br />

quenchers and holds potential<br />

as a conversion beer, handy for<br />

bringing your macro-beer friends<br />

who disdain the bitterness of hops into the<br />

world of craft beer enjoyment. $3.10 for a 473 mL<br />

can at the LCBO.<br />

Road Trip!<br />

Come to the Cowbell Farm in Blyth, Ontario<br />



GEORGE MACKE is a Southwestern Ontario craft beer<br />

explorer who spends too much time at the LCBO.<br />

40035 BLYTH ROAD, BLYTH, ON N0M 1H0<br />

1-844-523-4724 WWW.COWBELLBREWING.COM<br />




It's what we drink.<br />



36 | <strong>June</strong>/<strong>July</strong> <strong>2018</strong> — Premiere Issue<br />

Wine<br />

Rosé-Coloured Glasses<br />

The Trending Wine for Summer<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />


Over the last few summers rosé wines<br />

have been gaining interest from<br />

savvy wine drinkers. The LCBO<br />

reports that rosé wine sales have<br />

jumped 17 per cent to $46 million in the last<br />

two years. And most of this is not the massproduced<br />

sweet white zinfandel that gave rosé<br />

a bad reputation.<br />

Many of these rosés are dry. They<br />

are excellent summertime sippers<br />

and perfect for many summer food<br />

pairings, such as salads, light pastas,<br />

spiced curries and rice dishes,<br />

shellfish, grilled fish, fried perch,<br />

feta, and fresh goat cheeses. Rosé<br />

will often work well when a<br />

red or white wine might<br />

be too big for the dish.<br />

Dry rather than<br />

sweet is the difference<br />

in these<br />

rosés, and with elevated acidity that supports<br />

the clean, crisp and refreshing finish. This is<br />

summertime in a glass.<br />

Here are a half dozen (five Ontario rosés<br />

and one from France) that I recommend you<br />

try this summer. All are under $20 and are<br />

available at many LCBO Vintages locations.<br />

Gérard Bertrand 2017 Côte des<br />

Roses Rosé (VINTAGES #373985,<br />

$18.95) — Made in France’s<br />

Languedoc region from grenache,<br />

syrah and cinsault grapes.<br />

Light salmon colour. Strawberry,<br />

red cherry and red currant fruit<br />

aromas. Rose petal floral notes.<br />

The red fruit follows through on<br />

the palate with added grapefruit<br />

and lemon notes. Dry, crisp with<br />

a lingering finish. Take note of<br />

the interesting rose-moulded<br />

bottom of the bottle.<br />

Malivoire 2016 Ladybug<br />

Rosé (VINTAGES #559088,<br />

$16.95) — The leader of the<br />

pack, this is Ontario’s<br />

most popular and<br />

best-selling rosé.<br />

Malivoire has<br />

been producing<br />

Ladybug rosé<br />

for almost 20<br />

years now.<br />

Made from<br />

60% cabernet<br />

franc, 20%<br />

pinot noir<br />

and 20%<br />

gamay grapes<br />

grown in<br />

the Niagara<br />

Peninsula.<br />

Red cherry, strawberry,<br />

raspberry and green apple.

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Premiere Issue — <strong>June</strong>/<strong>July</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 37

38 | <strong>June</strong>/<strong>July</strong> <strong>2018</strong> — Premiere Issue<br />

A dry wine but with a hint of sweetness<br />

on the fruity finish. Lively, refreshing<br />

acidity. An excellent value.<br />

Megalomaniac Pink Slip Rosé 2016<br />

(VINTAGES#: 85126, $19.95) — Made<br />

from Ontario pinot noir, chardonnay<br />

musqué, riesling, merlot and<br />

gamay grapes grown in the Niagara<br />

Peninsula.<br />

The most interesting and complex<br />

rosé of the bunch. All the red fruits<br />

Small Lot Award Winning Wines<br />

We invite you to visit Oxley and taste our<br />

classics (Auxerrois, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir<br />

& Riesling) and our unique varietals:<br />

Regent, Wowza & Ripper Red.<br />

Open daily from 11am–6pm<br />

www.oxleyestatewinery.com (519) 738-3264<br />

533 County Rd. 50 E. Harrow, ON<br />

Share Our Passion<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

one might expect in a rosé with an additional<br />

mineral undertone, perhaps as a result of<br />

the riesling blended into the cuvée It’s an<br />

excellent sipper but this rosé has the power<br />

and finesse to pair well with summer<br />

grilled BBQ entrées like pork and chicken.<br />

Tawse 2016 Sketches of Niagara<br />

Rosé (VINTAGES#: 172643, $17.35) — An<br />

assemblage of Niagara Peninsula pinot<br />

noir, cabernet franc and gamay grapes.<br />

While it lacks much of the fruit<br />

complexity of some of the other<br />

rosés it is still nice for summertime<br />

imbibing. The crisp, energizing acidity<br />

is all that is needed for a refreshing<br />

mid-afternoon tipple or to be served<br />

as an aperitif.<br />

For food pairing, I suggest Tawse’s<br />

“Grower’s Blend Rosé”, currently<br />

only available directly from the<br />

winery in Niagara.<br />

Tawse Winery has been named<br />

Canadian Winery of the Year by<br />

WineAlign National Wine Awards of<br />

Canada four times in recent years:<br />

in 2016 and in three consecutive<br />

years — 2010, 2011 and 2012.<br />

Featherstone 2016 Rosé<br />

(VINTAGES <strong>#1</strong>17861, $15.95) — Made<br />

from 50% gamay, 40% cabernet<br />

sauvignon, and 10% pinot noir<br />

from the Niagara Peninsula.<br />

Available at many LCBO<br />

Vintages locations for a limited<br />

time (until August 18th, <strong>2018</strong> or<br />

while supplies last).<br />

While this is a dry wine, it<br />

offers fruit notes that are candied<br />

and provide a sense of sweetness.<br />

Sour cherry and watermelon Jolly<br />

Available<br />

at<br />

at the<br />

Fine LCBO Restaurants<br />

& The Winery<br />

Colchester Ridge Estate Winery<br />

A Family-Run Craft Winery<br />

Award-Winning VQA Wines<br />

Friendly Tasting Boutique<br />

Picnic Tables<br />

Artisanal Ontario Cheeses<br />

Special Events<br />

@crewinery • 108 Essex County Road 50 • Harrow ON • 519-738-9800

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Ranchers and red licorice. The fruit sweetness<br />

is well adjusted by the wine’s lively acidity,<br />

resulting in a nicely balanced rosé.<br />

This is a crowd-pleasing wine.<br />

Château des Charmes 2016 Cuvée<br />

d’Andrée Rosé (VINTAGES 333260,<br />

$15.95) — Made from 100% estate<br />

grown Niagara-on-the-Lake old<br />

vines pinot noir grapes. This is<br />

a dry, crisp, elegant rosé. Pure,<br />

fresh, ripe red fruits leading to a<br />

long savoury finish. The best value<br />

of the bunch here.<br />

The wine is dedicated to<br />

Madame Andrée Bosc — wife,<br />

mother and winery matriarch. The<br />

Bosc family has a deep history of<br />

grape growing and winemaking<br />

in the Alsace region of France. In<br />

1978 Paul Bosc Sr. and his wife Andrée<br />

founded Château des Charmes in Niagaraon-the-Lake.<br />

GARY KILLOPS is a CAPS Certified Sommelier who<br />

loves to talk, taste, and write about wine. He shares his<br />

tasting notes on EssexWineReview.com<br />

Open daily year round 11am-5pm<br />

Quality Craft Wines<br />

Beachfront Picnics<br />

www.sprucewoodshores.com 519-738-9253<br />

Enjoy Our Wines, Available at the LCBO<br />

Vines<br />

LOCAL<br />

Wines<br />

to<br />

LOCAL<br />

OPEN<br />

YEAR-<br />

ROUND<br />




Check our website for summer events!<br />

You can also find our wines at:<br />

Covent Garden Market, London<br />

Sarnia Farmers’ Market<br />

Point Edward Moonlight Farmers’ Market<br />

5547 Aberarder Line<br />

Plympton-Wyoming<br />

519-899-2479<br />


40 | <strong>June</strong>/<strong>July</strong> <strong>2018</strong> — Premiere Issue<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Books<br />

Foodie Fiction: Beach Reads<br />

Novels about Food, Kitchens, Chefs, and Restaurants<br />

Reviews by DARIN COOK<br />

For those with a sweet tooth for both<br />

confectionary and storytelling, Chocolat<br />

by Joanne Harris (1999) does<br />

not disappoint. Vianne and<br />

Anouk, a transient mother-daughter<br />

pair, breeze into a French village<br />

at the beginning of Easter season.<br />

Living a gypsy lifestyle inspired by<br />

her own mother, settling down is<br />

not in Vianne’s blood, but she yearns<br />

to cling to a location long enough to<br />

give Anouk some permanent roots.<br />

By opening a chocolate shop to serve<br />

the village, she hopes to be accepted,<br />

but the locals are surprised by the<br />

magic she is capable of inspiring in<br />

their tired town. Chocolate-making involves<br />

plenty of alchemy that fits with Vianne’s<br />

“Food has a power … And though it can’t save<br />

me, it might help me, in some way.” These are<br />

the words of Ginny Selvaggio, the<br />

main character from Jael McHenry’s<br />

The Kitchen Daughter (2011), who<br />

compulsively turns to cooking to<br />

calm herself when thoughts about<br />

the recent death of her parents<br />

become overwhelming. The story<br />

takes on supernatural overtones<br />

when Ginny’s cooking of certain<br />

recipes conjures deceased ancestors<br />

back to her kitchen. How does it happen<br />

and what does it all mean? She<br />

continues cooking, to unravel the<br />

mystery, eventually realizing that recipes left in<br />

a deceased person’s handwriting, coupled with<br />

the aroma of the cooking, have magical powers<br />

Two high school friends, Yummy and Cass,<br />

are reunited on a family potato farm in Idaho<br />

in All Over Creation (2003) by Ruth Ozeki.<br />

Yummy ran away twenty-five years ago and<br />

returns to reconnect with her estranged friend<br />

and confront the deteriorating health of her<br />

magical sense of developing relationships with<br />

the townsfolk, not only through her chocolate,<br />

but her radical ideas and sense of<br />

freedom.<br />

Some chapters are told through<br />

the voice of the village priest<br />

who is deeply troubled by his<br />

parish’s weakness during Lent in<br />

the shadow of Vianne’s chocolate<br />

shop. But not everyone in town<br />

shares the priest’s views and the<br />

luxury of self-indulgence may<br />

be just what the quaint village<br />

needs to release it from past sins.<br />

The war between Church and<br />

Chocolate becomes more palpable,<br />

dangerous, and delicious as the story unfolds<br />

over the days leading up to Easter Sunday.<br />

to bring back the dead. The next question is to<br />

what extent should this power be used to pursue<br />

family secrets that have surfaced<br />

since the death of her parents and<br />

confront her meddling sister?<br />

Ginny learns that not only does<br />

she deal with grief by summoning<br />

the flavours of her favourite<br />

foods, but it has been a coping<br />

method for her undiagnosed<br />

autism for years. She confronts<br />

the quirks of her autism to help<br />

develop a sense of self. Immersing<br />

herself in food and digging<br />

through memories from her<br />

childhood, she continues to search for what<br />

normal means and ultimately decides that it<br />

may not matter.<br />

parents, Lloyd and Momoko. At the same time,<br />

a wandering band of anti-GMO activists arrive<br />

at the farm in their Winnebago, wanting to learn<br />

from Lloyd who has played a pivotal role in the<br />

fight between natural seeds and engineered<br />

seeds in potato farming.

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Seeds are the heart of the story.<br />

Lloyd’s farm and Momoko’s garden<br />

have thousands of rare seeds,<br />

some of them the last specimens<br />

of their kind on Earth. They have<br />

been quietly nurturing, preserving,<br />

and distributing these natural<br />

treasures that might have gone<br />

extinct if not for their efforts.<br />

GMO plants can take over natural<br />

varieties, causing them to die out,<br />

but the activists and farmers come<br />

In Ruth Reichl’s book, Delicious! (2014), Billie<br />

Breslin finds herself in the midst of the New<br />

York food scene, learning everything she can<br />

from the cheese makers, butchers, chocolatiers,<br />

and food magazine editors she finds<br />

herself mingling with in her new<br />

job. Billie was a culinary prodigy<br />

who started a cake business with<br />

her sister at a young age, and seems<br />

to have quite a tongue for flavour.<br />

The story is infused with flavours<br />

and aromas that only a true<br />

gourmand and long-time restaurant<br />

critic, like Reichl, can relay. Billie<br />

fits right into the foodie lifestyle<br />

by visiting local farms, hunting<br />

for her own mushrooms, serving<br />

real Italian cheeses at a deli, all the<br />

while chiselling out a career as a food writer at<br />

an upscale food magazine called Delicious!<br />

The food items paired together in Bread<br />

and Butter (2014) by Michelle Wildgen refer<br />

to the living that three brothers<br />

make in the restaurant business<br />

in their Pennsylvania hometown.<br />

The older two, Leo and Britt, are<br />

veterans in the industry with their<br />

joint restaurant, Winesap; they<br />

are supportive, but skeptical, of<br />

younger Harry opening up Stray<br />

in their small town. Working in<br />

tandem, the older brothers have<br />

their respective duties: Britt<br />

learns the dining preferences and<br />

aversions of regular customers at<br />

the front of house; Leo manages<br />

the kitchen crew. They’ve been in business<br />

long enough to know the rhythm of the<br />

kitchen and the flow of service which Wildgen<br />

describes in entertaining detail.<br />

Compared to his brothers, who opened<br />

their restaurant after years of hard work,<br />

Premiere Issue — <strong>June</strong>/<strong>July</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 41<br />

together to propel their anticorporate<br />

sentiments throughout<br />

the farming community. Ozeki’s<br />

compelling story is equally about<br />

political and agribusiness issues,<br />

and personal relationships and<br />

the dramas that they spawn. An<br />

apocalyptic, yet touching, climax<br />

pays tribute to the importance of<br />

humans standing up for nature.<br />

In the magazine’s office, Billie unearths a<br />

secret stash of mysterious correspondence<br />

originally written to James Beard. The letters<br />

were written during World War II, by a young<br />

girl who is very mature and astute<br />

in her societal observations; her<br />

writing about wartime food conditions<br />

and rationing juxtaposes<br />

the gourmet world of Delicious!<br />

The letters give a taste of what<br />

wartime cooking was like, conveying<br />

that even though U.S. citizens<br />

needed to sacrifice certain food<br />

choices, it did not stop them from<br />

being creative in the kitchen. Billie<br />

becomes engrossed in reading<br />

and cataloguing the letters and her<br />

new pro ject shrouds other problems<br />

in her family life.<br />

Harry is an adventurous experimenter<br />

in the kitchen who sets out to bring new<br />

perspectives of artisanal food<br />

creations to the sheltered<br />

scene of their hometown. Britt<br />

is jealous of Harry’s ease and<br />

randomness at moving into the<br />

business, but the three brothers<br />

share a love of the food industry.<br />

Wildgen writes with an eye for<br />

flavours that her readers can<br />

savour through words, and she<br />

expertly portrays the competitive<br />

and frantic lives of restaurateurs<br />

and chefs, coupled with a dash<br />

of sibling rivalry and off-duty<br />

romance outside the kitchen.<br />

DARIN COOK is a freelance writer who lives and works<br />

in Chatham-Kent, but keeps himself well-read and wellfed<br />

by visiting bookstores and restaurants.

42 | <strong>June</strong>/<strong>July</strong> <strong>2018</strong> — Premiere Issue<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Recipes<br />

Let's Get Grilling<br />

On the Road with The Cooking Ladies<br />

By Phyllis Hinz and Lamont Mackay<br />

Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN<br />

I<br />

don’t want to jinx anything but it just might<br />

be (finally!) time to uncover the barbecue and<br />

pull out the lawn chairs. Our notoriously short<br />

Canadian summer is fast approaching and I’ve<br />

found just the right people to help us make the most<br />

of it.<br />

Stratford-born Phyllis Hinz and Vancouver native<br />

Lamont Mackay, known professionally as The Cooking<br />

Ladies, have made their careers out of travelling<br />

and eating. After 20 years in the restaurant business<br />

in Southwestern Ontario, they sold almost everything<br />

and spent nine years in an RV exploring food<br />

culture wherever they found it. They’ve since been<br />

to every province and territory in Canada, with the<br />

exception of Nunavut.<br />

On the Road With The Cooking Ladies; Let’s Get<br />

Grilling (Whitecap Books; 2017) is a collection of their<br />

best grilling and smoking recipes, inspired by over<br />

100 stops across North America.<br />

It’s as much a travelogue as a cookbook. The<br />

authors share photos and stories of the characters,<br />

the landscapes and the food cultures of the areas they<br />

love visiting.<br />

On the Road has grilling advice and food safety<br />

tips, and the writers explain how to get the most<br />

out of your barbecue, including how to turn a grill<br />

into a temporary smoker. (It’s a great way to enjoy<br />

the benefits of smoking your own food without the<br />

commitment of a dedicated appliance.)<br />

For an impressive<br />

side dish at your first<br />

family cookout this year,<br />

try Maple Bacon Onion<br />

Rings. Large rings of<br />

white onion wrapped in<br />

bacon and basted with<br />

maple syrup and Dijon<br />

mustard, grilled until<br />

crisp outside and tender<br />

inside. These will impress<br />

any crowd.<br />

A grill is a versatile cooking tool<br />

that can be used to make everything<br />

from salad to dessert but, for me, the<br />

first barbecue of the year is always a<br />

carnivore’s feast. Marinated Sirloin<br />

Steak fits the bill perfectly. Left to<br />

bathe overnight in the classic flavours<br />

of garlic, Worcestershire sauce and olive<br />

oil, then cooked quickly over a hot grill,<br />

it’s the taste of summer.<br />

You won’t find many fussy recipes<br />

here, just delicious,<br />

simple food that you’d<br />

be proud to bring to<br />

any summer gathering.<br />

On the Road With the<br />

Cooking Ladies is a great<br />

resource if you are<br />

looking to expand your<br />

Phyllis Hinz and Lamont<br />

Mackay, The Cooking Ladies

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

barbecue menu with<br />

some good, solid recipes and<br />

get the most out of your grill. It’s also a great<br />

inspiration if you are planning your own road<br />

trip this summer. And if you’re looking for<br />

both, it’s the perfect choice.<br />

TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer<br />

in London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com<br />

Recipes excerpted from On the Road With The Cooking<br />

Ladies; Let’s Get Grilling . Published by Whitecap Books.<br />

Reproduced by arrangement with the Publisher. All rights<br />

reserved.<br />

MONDAY JUNE 25,<br />

11:30 – 1:30 @<br />

CATALYST 137<br />


Join us for a showcase of some of <strong>Waterloo</strong><br />

Region’s best restaurants and catering<br />

companies and their Signature dishes! Check<br />

out parkinsonsociety.ca for a complete list of<br />

restaurants and caterers.<br />

Tickets only $20<br />

available at www.parkinsonsociety.ca or call (519) 652-9437<br />

Platinum Sponsor Venue Sponsor Media Sponsors

44 | <strong>June</strong>/<strong>July</strong> <strong>2018</strong> — Premiere Issue<br />

Maple Bacon Onion Rings<br />

Makes 4–6 servings<br />

2–3 medium-sized mild onions<br />

6 thinly sliced bacon strips<br />

2 Tbsp (30 mL) maple syrup<br />

1 tsp (5 mL) fresh lemon juice<br />

1 tsp (5 mL) Dijon mustard<br />

Peel and slice the onions into thick (½ inch/1 cm) slices<br />

widthwise.<br />

Push out the center 2–3 rings of each onion slice. Keep the<br />

remaining outer rings together. Set the inner rings aside<br />

for another recipe.<br />

Wind and stretch a bacon strip around each set of outer<br />

onion rings, covering the surface of the onion with the<br />

bacon. Secure the bacon ends with a toothpick.<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Place the bacon-wrapped onion rings side by side in a flat<br />

baking dish.<br />

In a bowl, combine the maple syrup, lemon juice, and<br />

mustard.<br />

Brush the maple syrup mixture over the bacon onion<br />

rings. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour.<br />

Preheat the grill on medium-high (450–550°F/230–290°C)<br />

for 10 minutes with the lid closed. Using a pair of longhandled<br />

tongs, oil the grate by wiping it with a piece of<br />

folded paper towel dipped lightly in canola oil.<br />

Place the bacon onion rings on the grate. Cook over<br />

medium-high heat with the lid closed, turning every<br />

3–4 minutes until the bacon is cooked and the onion is<br />

tender-crisp.<br />

Remove the toothpicks before serving.

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Marinated Sirloin Steak<br />

Makes 4 servings<br />

Two 1-lb (450 g) top sirloin steaks<br />

½ cup (125 mL) peeled and chopped onion<br />

3 garlic cloves, chopped<br />

½ cup (125 mL) extra-virgin olive oil<br />

¼ cup (60 mL) red wine vinegar<br />

2 Tbsp (30 mL) soy sauce<br />

1 Tbsp (15 mL) Worcestershire sauce<br />

1 tsp (5 mL) Dijon mustard<br />

½ tsp (2 mL) hot sauce<br />

¼ tsp (1 mL) sea salt<br />

¼ tsp (1 mL) coarsely ground pepper<br />

Place the steaks flat in a shallow, glass dish.<br />

In a bowl, combine the remaining ingredients. Mix well.<br />

Premiere Issue — <strong>June</strong>/<strong>July</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 45<br />

Pour the mixture over the steak. Turn the meat to coat<br />

both sides. Cover and refrigerate 12–24 hours. Turn the<br />

steaks once or twice while marinating.<br />

Preheat the grill on high (550–600°F/290–315°C) for 10<br />

minutes with the lid closed. Using a pair of long-handled<br />

tongs, oil the grate by wiping it with a piece of folded<br />

paper towel dipped lightly in canola oil.<br />

Remove steaks from the marinade. Discard marinade.<br />

With the lid closed, grill the steaks for about 5 minutes on<br />

each side or until the internal temperature registers 135°F<br />

(57°C) for medium-rare on an instantread thermometer.<br />

Transfer the steaks to a cutting board. Let rest for 10<br />

minutes before serving.

46 | <strong>June</strong>/<strong>July</strong> <strong>2018</strong> — Premiere Issue<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The Lighter Side<br />

Food for Comfort<br />


There’s an entry from the travel<br />

journal I kept during my backpacking<br />

days across Europe in late 1981.<br />

I’d been hitchhiking in Ireland<br />

and Scotland for several rainy weeks. Now I<br />

was in York, England that autumn and wrote,<br />

“I should express my gratitude to the<br />

humble grilled cheese sandwich.<br />

It has kept me going many a<br />

time in the past including<br />

tonight’s dinner.”<br />

Dining on the youth<br />

hostel circuit was far<br />

from haute cuisine. In<br />

those days, having access<br />

to a fridge and a stove in<br />

a hostel was sometimes a<br />

bloody luxury, so you can<br />

well imagine why I might take<br />

a moment to extol the wonders of<br />

slabs of cheese between two pieces of bread,<br />

buttered and, let’s face it, usually fried in a<br />

pan rather than actually grilled.<br />

The journal entry goes on for a few more<br />

sentences, noting how cheap they were to<br />

make and how I had practically lived on them<br />

for the first few weeks, when I was starting<br />

out as a reporter at the London Free Press.<br />

I had just finished my BA at Western, I had<br />

little money (but no student loan to pay off!),<br />

and my first journalism paycheque wasn’t due<br />

to arrive for another three weeks.<br />

Meanwhile back in York, it was the same<br />

story. According to my journal, I was down to<br />

my last pound and a half — that’s currency,<br />

not weight — and couldn’t get to the bank<br />

in time to cash some travellers’ cheques.<br />

Remember those relics of the past?<br />

As for the grilled cheese, “for the number of<br />

times I’ve eaten them I still find them tasty,”<br />

I wrote in the journal. “It also helps to try<br />

different kinds of cheeses.”<br />

Well, didn’t I have brilliant culinary insight<br />

back in the day? But my point here is that we<br />

all have our go-to comfort foods, and to this<br />

day I still default to a grilled cheese sandwich<br />

for lunch when nothing else presents itself.<br />

Granted, the selection of cheeses is sharper,<br />

the bread tastier, Dijon mustard is now<br />

a must, and sliced tomatoes are often an<br />

accompanying filling. I may not have matured<br />

much since those backpacking days, but my<br />

taste buds have.<br />

I suspect our comfort foods often<br />

spin out from childhood. I had<br />

my share of grilled cheese as a<br />

kid, when anything gooey like<br />

that was bound to be a hit.<br />

Hearty soups are also a good<br />

choice. Why, it’s practically a<br />

meal in bowl, some broth buff<br />

is bound to say.<br />

It certainly was that for<br />

my father. Anytime we were<br />

in restaurants he would ask the<br />

server what the soup of the day was.<br />

The answer didn’t matter; he’d always order<br />

it. I wondered why he didn’t just roll the<br />

dice and buy it without asking. Cream of<br />

chicken, chicken noodle, chowder (Boston or<br />

Manhattan), French onion, tomato bisque,<br />

cock-a-leekie, mushroom, etc. — he’d get it<br />

regardless. If it was soup of the day it must<br />

be good, he thought. If someone had said,<br />

“Today, sir, our special is cream of rust” my<br />

dad would have probably replied, “Great. I’ll<br />

have that and bring some crackers.”<br />

As for the humble grilled cheese of my<br />

youth, it has now evolved into gourmet fare.<br />

Check out any grilled cheese website and<br />

you’ll find balsamic blueberry grilled cheese,<br />

smashed avocado and roasted tomato, garlic<br />

confit and arugula — you get the picture.<br />

Heck, if I’d known about those variations in<br />

my travelling days I might never have left the<br />

hostel.<br />

MARK KEARNEY has been a journalist for more than<br />

35 years and has been published in nearly 80 publications<br />

in North America. He teaches writing and journalism at<br />

Western University.

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Premiere Issue — <strong>June</strong>/<strong>July</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 47<br />

a<br />

movement<br />

for<br />

restaurants<br />

who believe<br />

local food<br />

matters.<br />

®<br />

A Feast On® Certification means<br />

you’re fighting the good food fight.<br />

You’re supporting our farmers<br />

and putting local food first.<br />

To get certified, visit:<br />



48 | <strong>June</strong>/<strong>July</strong> <strong>2018</strong> — Premiere Issue<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

All the seafood you could want ...<br />

... right to your doorstep.<br />

Visit us in-store in KW or order online<br />


Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!