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PG. 80<br />

The Best Crêpes<br />

Two Modern<br />

Houseboats<br />

A Yakima Valley<br />

Wine Retreat<br />

the<br />

bounty<br />

issue<br />







<strong>1889</strong>mag.com<br />

$5.95 display until <strong>September</strong> 30, <strong>2018</strong><br />


<strong>August</strong> | <strong>September</strong> volume 10

360.671.3990<br />

bellingham.org<br />



Garden Path Fermentation co-founder Ron<br />

Extract checks on the fermentation process.<br />

2 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong>

Into the Wild<br />

photography by James Harnois<br />

Beer starts simple—malt, water, hops, yeast. That<br />

yeast is one of the places where things can get<br />

very interesting. Take, for example, Garden Path<br />

Fermentation and its friends in Washington, who are<br />

capturing wild yeasts from their backyards, locally<br />

grown fruits and tree bark and using the cultures<br />

to brew up funky, wild ales. This is not your father’s<br />

beer. This isn’t even your older brother’s beer. This<br />

is at the cutting edge of delicious. (pg. 58)<br />

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 3


AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong> • volume 10<br />

64<br />

Flower Power<br />

Welcome to Triple Wren<br />

Farms, where fresh-cut<br />

flowers are king.<br />

photography by<br />

Katheryn Moran<br />

52<br />

Local Love<br />

Savor the state’s most remarkable<br />

flavors, from cheese to shellfish<br />

to blueberries.<br />

written by Corinne Whiting<br />

58<br />

Katheryn Moran<br />

Fermenting Wilderness<br />

Breweries in Washington are<br />

at the forefront of wild beer,<br />

made from the yeast living in<br />

the microscopic wilderness that<br />

surrounds all of us.<br />

written by Mike Allen<br />

Triple Wren Farms, near Bellingham, grows<br />

a variety of flowers, including sweet peas.

28<br />


AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong> • volume 10<br />

LIVE<br />

14 SAY WA?<br />

Summer’s not over yet. Hit the Washington State Fair, watch the vintage<br />

tugboat races and take your campout food to the next level.<br />

20 FOOD + DRINK<br />

Get your French fix with the best crêpes around the state, then switch<br />

to noodles and dumplings at Yakima’s E.Z Tiger. Not done yet? Try Orcas<br />

Island-made shrubs and jams from Girl Meets Dirt.<br />

22 80<br />

COVER<br />

photo by Jim Henkens<br />

(see Oh, the Pastabilities!, pg. 36)<br />

10<br />

11<br />

86<br />

88<br />

Editor’s Letter<br />

<strong>1889</strong> Online<br />

Map of Washington<br />

Until Next Time<br />

Benjamin Benschneider<br />

Icicle TV<br />

24 FARM TO TABLE<br />

Salmon is arguably Washington’s most-celebrated snack, sustaining<br />

communities for centuries. Learn more about how it gets to your plate,<br />

and how you can re-create the magic at home.<br />

28 HOME + DESIGN<br />

Houseboats are about as Seattle as it gets. Here, two modern revivals<br />

demonstrate that these floating homes can be streamlined, art-filled and<br />

sleek. Bonus: learn how to incorporate art into your living space.<br />

34 MIND + BODY<br />

Just 20 years old, Cole Paton is hitting the mountain bike trails as a pro<br />

rider for Giant Bicycles.<br />


Linda Miller Nicholson, the “Lady Gaga of Pasta,” proves once and for all<br />

that pasta can be artistic and delicious.<br />

THINK<br />

42 STARTUP<br />

WISErg seeks to cut grocery stores’ food waste by turning it into highquality,<br />

organic liquid fertilizer.<br />

44 WHAT’S GOING UP<br />

Attractions around Washington await—from The Waterfront in<br />

Vancouver to The Spheres in Seattle.<br />


You can help save the native bee population by helping the Xerces<br />

Society collect data for its Pacific Northwest Bumble Bee Atlas.<br />


The Hops Whisperer of Segal Ranch is producing some of the most<br />

popular aroma hops in the world.<br />


Blue North seeks to provide fresh fish through a humane harvest.<br />



Head to Washington State University for the state’s best ice cream and<br />

cheese, made by students.<br />

74 ADVENTURE<br />

Whether traveling by horse or by hayride, you are guaranteed to try<br />

some of the Yakima Valley’s best wines on this adventure.<br />

78 LODGING<br />

In Seattle, the Mayflower Park Hotel has been in operation for ninety<br />

years, and it retains its charm.<br />


Leavenworth, Washington’s quirky Bavarian mountain town, will<br />

transport you to another continent.<br />


Walk among the giants in California’s Redwood forests.<br />

6 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong>

SCAPE<br />

It’s closer than you think.<br />


$239<br />


Book your tee time today!<br />

Based on availability. All packages incur a 7%<br />

Tribal tax. Summer package rates expire 9/30/18.<br />

Visit cdacasino.com/golf for more packages.<br />

1 800 523-2464 | CDACASINO.COM | Worley, Idaho | 25 miles south of Coeur d’Alene



Photographer<br />

Fermenting Wilderness<br />


Writer<br />

Fermenting Wilderness<br />


Photographer<br />

Gallery<br />


Writer<br />

Trip Planner<br />

I love working with passionate<br />

people. I was so impressed to<br />

see how much time and care<br />

went into the art of brewing.<br />

As a cider drinker who cannot<br />

drink beer anymore because<br />

of the gluten, I’ve never<br />

wanted to try one so badly.<br />

True craftsmanship is alive<br />

and well here in the state of<br />

Washington. Cheers to that!<br />

(pg. 58)<br />

I do enough background<br />

research to come to my stories<br />

with a set of preconceived<br />

notions. What makes the<br />

reporting process worthwhile<br />

is when those preconceptions<br />

get torn up by reality. I’ve had<br />

plenty of traditional Belgian<br />

and American wilds, so I have<br />

come to expect sometimes<br />

bracing sourness in almost<br />

every bottle. But the direction<br />

Washington wild brewers are<br />

taking is entirely different—<br />

wild with restraint. A little<br />

yeast revolution is happening<br />

right now.<br />

(pg. 58)<br />

Driving out the country roads<br />

to find Triple Wren Farms was<br />

peaceful all on its own, but<br />

arriving on the farm property<br />

was so inviting and colorful.<br />

Sunflowers shining brightly,<br />

the widest variety of sweet pea<br />

flowers I have ever laid eyes on<br />

and a huge metal cooler painted<br />

with big yellow flowers welcome<br />

you as you come down the main<br />

drive. The owners of the farm<br />

told me how enlivened they<br />

are to have started this new<br />

life path and how much it has<br />

improved their quality of life.<br />

(pg. 64)<br />

It seemed fitting to research<br />

Leavenworth’s Oktoberfest last<br />

fall with my visiting Irish friend,<br />

since we had experienced<br />

the real festival together<br />

(in Munich!) many moons<br />

ago. Seeing Washington’s<br />

version of Bavaria through her<br />

eyes reminded me just how<br />

fortunate we are to have such<br />

culture and natural beauty<br />

in our midst. Leavenworth<br />

is a captivating destination<br />

in any season, and Sleeping<br />

Lady always leaves me feeling<br />

blissfully restored.<br />

(pg. 80)<br />

8 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong>

EDITOR<br />










Kevin Max<br />

Sheila G. Miller<br />

Allison Bye<br />

Kelly Rogers<br />

Cindy Miskowiec<br />

Jenny Kamprath<br />

Cindy Guthrie<br />

Jenn Redd<br />

Jackie Dodd<br />

Mike Allen, Melissa Dalton, Nick Engelfried, Catie Joyce-Bulay,<br />

Lauren Kramer, Lauren Lofthus, Megan Morse, Ben Salmon,<br />

Cara Strickland, Corinne Whiting, Gina Williams<br />

James Harnois, Jim Henkens, Katheryn Moran<br />

Statehood Media<br />

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<strong>1889</strong>mag.com/subscribe<br />

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AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 9

FROM THE<br />

EDITOR<br />

LIKE WALKING INTO the middle of a field<br />

of tulips, the color is what grabs you first in the<br />

pasta parade behind Linda Miller Nicholson, or<br />

“The Lady Gaga of Pasta.” We caught up with the<br />

pasta artist as she kneaded, rolled and cut pasta<br />

from sheets of dough in colors as rich as Tuscan<br />

summer sunsets.<br />

Welcome to The Bounty Issue of <strong>1889</strong><br />

Washington’s Magazine. Turn to page 36 to be<br />

inspired by the work of a woman who was once<br />

told, as a child, that she wasn’t artistic. Today<br />

Nicholson epitomizes art with pasta made in<br />

clever shapes and colors—from bonnets from<br />

The Handmaid’s Tale to multicolor sombreros.<br />

Your sense of beauty will thank you.<br />

Next, take a step into the wild with us, where<br />

wild fermenter Shane Johns is brewing Flandersstyle<br />

beers with yeast strains floating around in<br />

Tacoma. Now a yeastmeister who works with<br />

Engine House No. 9 brewery in Tacoma, Johns<br />

has spread his wings to make many beers from<br />

distinctly Pacific Northwestern yeast strains. In<br />

Fermenting Wilderness on page 58, we explore<br />

brewers who trek into the hinterlands of yeast to bring its<br />

bounty to beer drinkers in Washington.<br />

The foundational piece of The Bounty Issue, Local Love,<br />

takes us into Pike Place Market, across to the Olympic<br />

Culinary Loop, over to Wenatchee’s Stemilt Growers Retail<br />

Store and down the Hood Canal to Lilliwaup for the Hama<br />

Hama OysterRama and up to Port Angeles for the Dungeness<br />

Crab and Seafood Festival. If your sense of restraint isn’t<br />

already overrun, you are not a foodie. This feature dances<br />

through the heart of the Washington food scene and ends<br />

with recipes that showcase Washington bounty, including, of<br />

course, clam chowder.<br />

On Orcas Island, meet Girl Meets Dirt. Audra Lawlor<br />

left Wall Street to grow and harvest fruit that she turns into<br />

amazing jams and puckering drinking vinegars, or shrubs,<br />

under her Girl Meets Dirt label. (See page 22.)<br />

Walk into Brimmer & Heeltap near Ballard and you will find<br />

chef David Valencia preparing salmon caught off of Lopez<br />

Island by the sustainable farmers and fishermen of Jones<br />

Family Farms. In Tulalip Resort Casino’s Blackfish restaurant,<br />

chef David Buchanan deploys the time-honored Native<br />

American tradition of cooking salmon on sticks and over<br />

alderwood coals. These chefs and more honor us with their<br />

best salmon recipes on page 26.<br />

While this issue is a map to better culinary days, you may<br />

want to spend the end of yours at Rooftop Brewing Co., where,<br />

as our Beervana writer, Jackie Dodd, puts it, the “why” doesn’t<br />

matter, as long as you’re up on the rooftop. Cheers!<br />

10 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong>

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Third Beach in Olympic National Park, Washington.<br />

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AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 11

SAY WA? 14<br />

FOOD + DRINK 20<br />

FARM TO TABLE 24<br />

HOME + DESIGN 28<br />

Jim Henkens<br />

MIND + BODY 34<br />


pg. 36<br />

Linda Miller Nicholson proves pasta can be art.

1002 W Riverside, Spokane WA<br />


say wa?<br />

Tidbits & To-dos<br />

mark your<br />

calendar<br />

Rite in the Rain<br />

Like a true Pacific Northwesterner, Rite in the Rain<br />

products are both environmentally friendly and<br />

able to handle precipitation. Based in Tacoma, the<br />

company’s special paper was initially designed to<br />

help loggers working in poor weather conditions.<br />

These journals defy Mother Nature. Rite in the Rain<br />

offers wood-based products and recyclable paper<br />

that can be exposed to water without falling apart.<br />

riteintherain.com<br />

Firefly Kitchens’ Fresh & Fermented Cookbook<br />

Washington State Fair<br />

With concerts, rides and a rodeo, the Washington State Fair<br />

has something for the entire family. Continuously ranked<br />

among the United States’ ten largest state fairs, this summer’s<br />

lineup includes big names like Kahlid, Florida Georgia Line,<br />

Brett Eldridge, Macklemore, Rascal Flatts and comedian Gabriel<br />

“Fluffy” Iglesias. Other highlights include an anatomical moving<br />

dinosaur exhibit and a farmer-for-a-day SillyVille interactive<br />

exhibit. The fair runs from <strong>August</strong> 31-<strong>September</strong> 23.<br />

Patrick Hagerty<br />

Based in Seattle, Firefly Kitchens is all about the<br />

healthy probiotics found in fermented vegetables,<br />

and its new Fresh & Fermented cookbook is no<br />

different. This beautifully illustrated book is full of<br />

simple recipes that will have you incorporating this<br />

versatile food not only into your main dishes but<br />

also in smoothies, cakes and oatmeal.<br />

fireflykitchens.com<br />

thefair.com<br />

14 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong>

say wa?<br />

Olympia Harbor Days<br />

The Olympia Harbor Days<br />

festival is entertainment mixed<br />

with natural vistas. Celebrating<br />

the world’s largest vintage<br />

tugboat races along the Puget<br />

Sound’s Port of Olympia, the<br />

festival also brings music, food,<br />

arts and crafts, and history<br />

over the three-day event. Say<br />

farewell to summer at this<br />

family fun event, which runs<br />

from <strong>August</strong> 31-<strong>September</strong> 2.<br />

harbordays.com<br />

Karla Fowler<br />

mark your<br />

calendar<br />

mark your<br />

calendar<br />

Squirrel Fest<br />

Known for its squirrel suspension bridges, Longview<br />

takes it to the next level with a Squirrel Fest on<br />

<strong>August</strong> 18. Start the day off at the “go nutty” parade,<br />

then explore the vendors, check out the squirrel cam<br />

and watch Circus Cascadia with the kids. Later, get in<br />

on the karaoke contest, relax at the beer and wine<br />

garden and end the evening at the main stage for a<br />

lineup of musical performances.<br />

lvsquirrelfest.com<br />

Tom Sawyer Country Coffee<br />

Savor a cup of bold coffee from Tom Sawyer<br />

Coffee Company, a roaster based in Spokane.<br />

This company takes pride in supporting and<br />

sourcing its beans from family-owned coffee<br />

farms. We love the single pour-over variety pack<br />

for summer camping excursions.<br />

tomsawyercountrycoffee.com<br />

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 15

say wa?<br />

Musician<br />

A Lifetime of Music<br />

Boat Race Weekend’s ties go way back<br />

written by Ben Salmon<br />

Alicia Hauff<br />

Listen on Spotify<br />

LOTS OF BANDS are centered around old friends from high<br />

school or college.<br />

And then there’s the bond that forms the core of Spokane’s<br />

Boat Race Weekend. Drummer Jay Orth and guitarist/vocalist<br />

Evan Kruschke first met all the way back in kindergarten. “I<br />

complimented him on his cool lunchbox,” Orth said, “and<br />

we’ve been best friends ever since.”<br />

Fast-forward a number of years—past the duo’s middleschool<br />

band Whizz*Bang!—and you’ll find Orth, Kruschke and<br />

another longtime pal, bassist Collin Price, enrolled at Gonzaga<br />

University, scrambling to prepare to play a coffeehouse show<br />

in place of an act that canceled. The trio learned seven covers<br />

in seven days and “made it work,” Orth said. That led to cover<br />

shows at campus houses, which led to the group writing its<br />

own songs, just for fun.<br />

It’s still fun, but now these guys take it seriously, as evidenced<br />

by Boat Race Weekend’s sophomore album, Near & Dear,<br />

which is packed with muscular<br />

guitar rock rooted in earnest<br />

Midwestern emo, thoughtful<br />

hardcore punk and the ambitious atmosphere<br />

of bands like Explosions in the Sky. Where the<br />

band’s debut—2015’s The Talisman—is a bit<br />

faster and harder, the new one slows down and goes for a more<br />

expansive sound, while lyrically tackling big life events and the<br />

associated big feelings.<br />

That’s the sound of a band maturing, developing and pushing<br />

outward, even after all these years.<br />

“We’ve grown as musicians (and as songwriters who know)<br />

how to achieve the sound we’ve been striving toward,” Krushke<br />

said. “We just love making music and sharing it with people.<br />

Art and music in general is a powerful force for change, and<br />

we hope to make music that people can connect to and form a<br />

relationship with.”<br />

16 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong>

OCTOBER 11-14, <strong>2018</strong><br />



say wa?<br />

Bibliophile<br />

Class Up Your Campout<br />

New cookbook elevates camping cuisine<br />

interview by Sheila G. Miller<br />

Ryan Rober Miller<br />

The trio behind Dirty Gourmet<br />

make wilderness a little more tasty.<br />

18 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong>

say wa?<br />

AIMEE TRUDEAU, Emily Nielson and Mai-Yan Kwan have a message for the outdoorsy set—camping doesn’t have to be<br />

all franks and beans (though they have nothing against a good hot dog once in awhile). With their new cookbook, Dirty<br />

Gourmet, from Washington’s Mountaineers Books, the trio are helping you class up your next campout. We’re talking<br />

baked brie, roasted garlic and dutch oven sticky buns. With more than 120 recipes, Dirty Gourmet has tips and tricks for<br />

all food situations, whether you’re car camping, hitting the trail for a day trip or going into the backcountry. Kwan gave<br />

<strong>1889</strong> the inside scoop on taste tests, lessons learned and the ever-elusive savory oatmeal.<br />

How did the idea to make this<br />

cookbook come about?<br />

We started the blog over eight years<br />

ago—it was just a little passion project<br />

we did on the side. Aimee and I had<br />

gone on a bike tour for four months<br />

and camped the whole way, from<br />

Los Angeles to Vancouver, Canada,<br />

and then across Canada. I continued<br />

on to Boston after that. During that<br />

time, Emily was an outdoor science<br />

instructor in Big Bear, so she was also<br />

living the camp life for three years,<br />

teaching and living in cabins. We were<br />

all living outside for extended periods<br />

of time and cooking outdoors. That’s<br />

how Dirty Gourmet started—when<br />

you get into situations where you’re<br />

outdoors a lot and you cook outside<br />

enough, beans and hot dogs and<br />

the classics are fine but you need to<br />

go beyond that at some point. I love<br />

to make myself a good old hot dog,<br />

but we tried to go beyond what you<br />

typically think of as camp food.<br />

Why is eating well while camping<br />

something that appeals to you?<br />

Aimee and I had a realization on our<br />

bike tour. You meet a lot of cyclists<br />

on the road and you end up camping<br />

together, and we would look at how<br />

other people were cooking and<br />

realized, ‘Whoa, our meals are pretty<br />

complicated.’ We would think all day,<br />

‘What are we going to make tonight?’<br />

We would plan our whole route so we<br />

could go to a grocery store and spend<br />

two hours grocery shopping. It was just<br />

really about what we like to eat and<br />

seeing what we could experiment with.<br />

Our mission is to inspire people to eat<br />

great food outdoors. People spend so<br />

much time planning trips, and then the<br />

food is just the last piece of it. We’re<br />

trying to put more emphasis<br />

on the food, which is a huge<br />

part of the experience when<br />

you’re outdoors. You’re<br />

connecting with nature<br />

and refocusing and that’s<br />

really a healing experience.<br />

Food becomes more<br />

important outside your<br />

comfort zone.<br />

How did you test these recipes?<br />

It was definitely trial and error. What<br />

we like to let people know is, we have<br />

made all the mistakes for you, so<br />

hopefully you’ll avoid making them<br />

again. We first tested the idea for<br />

skillet lasagna, a one-pot meal, on a<br />

snowshoeing day trip, and we had a<br />

bunch of people with us. We were so<br />

excited. We brought a thin backpacking<br />

pot and a single-burner camp stove. It<br />

just burned. Everyone had to eat burnt<br />

lasagna on that trip. So lesson number<br />

one, bring backup just in case it fails.<br />

Don’t try a recipe blind on the first<br />

time you go out there.<br />

One recipe I was working on that<br />

did not work at all is savory oatmeal.<br />

I like savory breakfasts. I was super<br />

determined, and I tried a bunch of<br />

combinations, with miso, with a<br />

Mediterranean flavor with pine nuts<br />

and sundried tomatoes. People could<br />

not even wrap their heads around it. It<br />

was, ‘No, I don’t want to eat this.’ That’s<br />

a fail. I’m going to move on from that.<br />

What advice do you have to set up<br />

campers for success?<br />

For something like car camping, I really<br />

encourage people to stick to recipes<br />

that are their go-to at home. Don’t<br />

try to do something you’ve never<br />

done before in the outdoors. Set up<br />

a camping pantry, a<br />

bin where you keep all<br />

those things you need,<br />

like a spatula and salt.<br />

That’s what happens<br />

when you go camping—<br />

those essential things<br />

have been forgotten, and<br />

something simple becomes<br />

quite complicated. Also<br />

premeasuring things in<br />

general, even for car<br />

camping. I always recommend that<br />

you portion everything out and put<br />

in Ziplocs or mason jars, which are<br />

watertight, so you don’t have to worry<br />

about them going into a cooler or a<br />

bin. Even eggs—crack them into jars.<br />

What’s the next step for you?<br />

We do small, intimate dinners for a<br />

dozen people or for more than 200<br />

people on multiday campouts. I think<br />

our next step is to figure out how to<br />

clone ourselves. We really have to<br />

scale that. The great thing is we’re in<br />

demand, people want us to come out<br />

and come on a trip and cook for them,<br />

but we need to build out our team.<br />

This summer, we’re teaching a handson<br />

backpacking cooking class, which<br />

will be set up for up to twenty people<br />

doing everything by themselves like a<br />

traditional cooking class but outdoors<br />

and backpacking. That’s a new thing<br />

for us.<br />

A little thing in the back of my mind<br />

is, we’ve made one cookbook and we<br />

had to really refine our cooking skills.<br />

I’m still developing new recipes, so I<br />

keep thinking, ‘OK, this would be good<br />

for our next cookbook.’<br />

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 19

food + drink<br />

Cocktail Card<br />

recipe courtesy of<br />

ChocMo Chocolate Bistro<br />

Nocino<br />

Manhattan<br />

2 ounces Black Heron bourbon<br />

1 ounce Stone Barn Nocino<br />

1 ounce Carpano Antica Formula<br />

sweet vermouth<br />

2 dashes Angostura bitters<br />

Combine all ingredients in a<br />

shaker. Stir vigorously and strain<br />

into a martini glass. Garnish with<br />

a Luxardo cherry and enjoy.<br />

Beervana<br />

A Brew with a View<br />

written and photographed by Jackie Dodd<br />

Rooftop Brewing offers good beers and great views.<br />

CRAIG CHRISTIAN HAS a casual answer for why he won’t rent out his taproom<br />

for private events.<br />

“It would just be about the money, and that’s not why I’m here,” he said. That<br />

shows you what his bones are made of. A group of fiercely loyal regulars who form<br />

the pulse of the taproom, even on a typical drizzly Seattle day, matter to him in a way<br />

that speaks volumes. “All on their own they started a Facebook group called Rooftop<br />

Regulars,” he said, smiling like a proud parent putting an aced exam on the fridge.<br />

Christian has instant likability that you feel the second you meet him. It’s not just<br />

his disarming transparency, his quiet humility, or the way he creates a community<br />

wherever he goes. What reminds you—more than anything—that the owner of<br />

Rooftop Brewing is the sort that you want to run in the same circle with is how, even<br />

when he tries, he can’t talk about himself or his accomplishments for more than a<br />

few moments without turning the spotlight on someone else he adores. Maybe it’s<br />

the way Ladro coffee roasts their beans, or how Counterbalance Brewing is raising<br />

money for charity through the Beer Trumps Hate campaign (the one Christian<br />

started), or the way the food from the Vietnamese food truck that makes the rounds<br />

at Rooftop pairs so well with beer.<br />

“I put a roof deck on an A-framed Tudor-style house that had no business being<br />

there,” Christian said of Rooftop Brewing’s origin story. In reality, it all started in<br />

London decades ago. Before he was of legal drinking age in the United States,<br />

Christian found himself in the heart of the UK with a desire to learn how to brew<br />

and a country that was ready and willing to teach him. Is it that he learned to make<br />

beer in the hallowed ale-soaked terrain of England that makes his beer so good? Is<br />

it the multiple degrees in science that make it so consistent and flawless? Maybe.<br />

Or maybe it’s some other unidentifiable quality that keeps the awards coming and<br />

the fan base growing. But the “why” of it all doesn’t matter once you’re up on the<br />

rooftop of Rooftop with that cold Stargazer IPA in your hand. Don’t forget to grab<br />

a banh mi sandwich while you’re there. Christian will be the first to tell you how<br />

amazing they are.<br />

1220 W NICKERSON ST.<br />


rooftopbrewco.com<br />

20 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong>

E N L I G H T E N M E N T<br />

R A R E A Y R E . C O M<br />

Tours|Education|Exhibits<br />

1943 Columbia Park Trail<br />

Richland, WA 99352<br />

509.943.4100<br />

www.visitthereach.org<br />

OPEN<br />

Tues-Sat|10am-4:30pm<br />

Sun |12-4:30pm<br />


food + drink<br />



There’s nothing quite like eating<br />

mussels in view of the water. At<br />

Front Street Grill, you can also eat<br />

them steeped in a spicy, satisfying<br />

green curry sauce, with or without<br />

linguini underneath.<br />



fsgcoupeville.com<br />


It’s likely you’ve never had a<br />

wine-tasting quite like the one at<br />

Paradisos del Sol. Winegrower Paul<br />

Vandenberg follows the “sip, sip,<br />

bite, sip” tasting method. You’ll get<br />

a little plate with tiny paired bites<br />

and experience wines like the lightly<br />

bodied sangiovese or the fortified<br />

zort (perfect with chocolate).<br />


ZILLAH<br />

paradisosdelsol.com<br />

Gastronomy<br />

Girl Meets Dirt<br />

written by Cara Strickland<br />

IF YOU WANDER in to Girl Meets Dirt for an informal tasting, you might<br />

just get to chat with Audra Lawlor (the girl who met the dirt). Her story is just<br />

as romantic as it sounds—she left a high-powered Wall Street job to build a<br />

life with her love on Orcas Island. Another of her loves can be found in the<br />

orchard, where she harvests island fruit, often historical varieties, and uses it<br />

to make old-school jams and preserves (without commercial pectin or refined<br />

sugar), most of them single varietal, to let the fruit speak for themselves. She’s<br />

also been making drinking vinegars, like the bitter lemon lavender. All this adds<br />

up to unique island flavor you can bring home and savor long after you bid the<br />

ferry goodbye. Buy straight from the source, online or in person, or at a few<br />

farmer’s markets on the islands and near Seattle.<br />



girlmeetsdirt.com<br />

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Audra Lawlor is the<br />

girl behind Girl Meets Dirt. Shrubs, or drinking<br />

vinegars, are made from island fruit. Lawlor<br />

makes jams and preserves.<br />



If you weren’t aware you could have<br />

a craving for blue cheese chocolate<br />

cake, you’re in for a treat at The<br />

Cheesemonger’s Table. A generous<br />

slice of decadent chocolate layer cake<br />

is topped with chocolate frosting (the<br />

middle layers have a kick of cheese).<br />

The whole thing is sprinkled with blue<br />

cheese, so you can have a little with<br />

each delicious bite.<br />

203 5TH AVENUE SOUTH<br />


cheesemongerstable.com<br />



The perfect meal after a long day<br />

of wine tasting, Public House 124<br />

does hearty basics with a satisfying<br />

twist. Don’t miss the Kraut Kruga—a<br />

German dumpling stuffed with sweet<br />

onion, cabbage, grass-fed beef and<br />

horseradish creme fraiche.<br />



ph124.com<br />

22 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong>

food + drink<br />


CRÊPES<br />


If you think a crêpe should<br />

be a light meal, this probably<br />

isn’t the place for you. Try<br />

something savory like the<br />

spicy Italian sausage crêpe,<br />

stuffed with housemade Italian<br />

sausage, roasted red bell<br />

peppers, onions and Kalamata<br />

olives, topped with marinara,<br />

basil and a host of cheeses<br />

and baked in a small casserole.<br />

If you still have room, try a<br />

sweet crêpe, like the Black<br />

Forest, stuffed with chocolate<br />

gelato and cherries preserved<br />

in port wine.<br />

833 FRONT STREET<br />


pavzcafe.com<br />



The James Beard-nominated<br />

chef Laurent Zirotti and his<br />

wife, Patricia, both from France,<br />

own this delightful crêperie. Try<br />

the Monte Cristo for breakfast<br />

(complete with rhubarb<br />

compote, if you desire), the<br />

Bison Meatloaf for lunch (with<br />

a kick of horseradish), or stick<br />

to a tangy classic with the<br />

lemon curd (you’ll want to add<br />

the optional blueberries).<br />

909 SOUTH GRAND<br />



fleurdeselcreperie.com<br />


As they put it on their T-shirts,<br />

a crêpe “beats the fluff out<br />

of pancakes.” Try a sweet<br />

crêpe like the Apple Pie<br />

(flame-roasted Fuji apples,<br />

“ABC’auce,” graham crackers<br />

and cinnamon drizzle) or the<br />

savory ABCT (avocado, bacon,<br />

cheddar and tomato).<br />



facebook.com/ABCrepes<br />

Dining<br />

Cowiche Canyon Kitchen<br />

+ Icehouse and E.Z Tiger<br />

written by Cara Strickland<br />

THE MENU AT E.Z Tiger advertises noodles, dumplings, cocktails and shelter. For<br />

Graham Snyder, a descendant of another Yakima Snyder you might remember from<br />

childhood bread, shelter means hospitality, a little bit of protection. When you walk<br />

into one of his restaurants, he wants you to know you’ll be cared for, something he<br />

refined during his time in the restaurant business in Los Angeles. That’s certainly<br />

the case at both of his wonderful spots, though they couldn’t be more different.<br />

Cowiche Canyon Kitchen offers fresh, innovative tastes of the region, while E.Z<br />

Tiger flawlessly borrows flavors from the Pacific Rim. The steam buns alone (with<br />

perfectly crispy pork belly inside, courtesy of chef Cameron Slaugh) are reason<br />

enough to return, but whatever you order, you can bet it’s made with care, and<br />

comes with a side of shelter.<br />



YAKIMA<br />

cowichecanyon.com<br />

ez-tiger.com<br />

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP E.Z Tiger’s dan dan noodles.<br />

Dumplings are an E.Z Tiger specialty. Cowiche Canyon<br />

Kitchen offers variety, including grilled artichoke.<br />

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 23

farm to table<br />

Farm to Table<br />

In Celebration of Salmon<br />

Finding time-honored traditions<br />

in modern-day meals from the sea<br />

written by Corinne Whiting<br />

ON A LAZY SUNDAY, you sit on the sun-dappled patio<br />

of Brimmer & Heeltap, a tucked-away gem between<br />

Seattle’s Ballard and Fremont. Cascading hibiscus<br />

dances in the breeze. Light slants into this secret<br />

garden. This is one of those meals that will linger long<br />

after your last bite. The true star of the show, without<br />

a doubt, is the salmon.<br />

Washington diners are spoiled by the myriad ways in which<br />

this fish shows up on their plates in almost any season. At<br />

Brimmer & Heeltap, chef David Valencia reaches back to his<br />

roots when preparing Alaska salmon aguachile, a popular<br />

option among the eatery’s loyal patrons.<br />

“I grew up eating ceviche and aguachile [a cold seafood dish,<br />

traditionally served with shrimp] with my uncles at Mariscos<br />

Chihuahua, a local restaurant in Arizona,” he said. “The acidity,<br />

raw onion and spice bring me right back to those warm days<br />

eating out of a cocktail glass in the parking lot.”<br />

Sustainable Harvesting<br />

Brimmer & Heeltap works with Mikuni Wild Harvest, which<br />

in turn sources from Jones Family Farms (JFF), a family-owned<br />

and operated business producing grass-fed meats and shellfish<br />

on Lopez Island. JFF also sources and distributes fine-quality<br />

Northwest seafood.<br />

Kevin Mock, sales associate for Mikuni, explained the<br />

allure of working with JFF. “They’re directly in contact with<br />

the producers, fishermen and farmers in their area,” he<br />

said. “They know the families, their stories, their industries,<br />

their struggles.”<br />

JFF has participated in sustainable practices of Puget Sound<br />

and Alaskan wild salmon for many years. “Due to recent<br />

inconsistencies in salmon runs, increasing costs and our<br />

changing business needs, we have cut back on our commercial<br />

fishing efforts while partnering with local, long-standing,<br />

quality-oriented fisherman to maintain a fish supply. In order<br />

to assure the highest quality salmon, fish are bled, dressed and<br />

iced immediately and handled with care.”<br />

Mock said the salmon tastes clean and fresh because it<br />

doesn’t have far to travel. “By eating that fish,” he said, “[diners<br />

are] supporting the local fishermen of the Salish Sea, who are<br />

the stewards of our local waterways.”<br />

JFF offers fresh salmon from May through late November—<br />

and frozen and smoked salmon year-round. As the basis of<br />

its own fishing operation, Fraser River Sockeye became the<br />

family’s first love. “Since time immemorial,” these fish have<br />

passed through the San Juans, and islanders have depended<br />

upon their bounty. The Joneses purchase as much as possible<br />

from Jack Giard, a Lopez Reef net fisherman, and Dan Post and<br />

Arn Veal, gillnetters from Lopez and Guemes Islands.<br />

“The Fraser fish are unlike any other sockeye; there is poetry<br />

to their flesh and we revere them as the historic lifeblood of our<br />

island community,” the JFF website states. “These fishermen<br />

also catch Fraser River pink salmon on odd years. These fish,<br />

too, are particularly lovely.”<br />

The company gets the bulk of its local Coho from the<br />

Finkbonner family, who catch the fish in Lummi nation waters.<br />

Because the fish feed primarily on crab larvae, the fish taste<br />

more like lobster than other salmon.<br />

24 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong>

farm to table<br />


A Jones Family Farms<br />

worker tends to the boat.<br />

Waiting for the fish.<br />

Hauling in a reefnet.<br />

Honoring Tradition<br />

About 35 miles north of Seattle, Tulalip Resort Casino’s<br />

Blackfish is well-known for its signature preparation of the<br />

heritage salmon (AKA salmon on a stick). “It is based upon<br />

a time-honored and proven tribal technique for cooking<br />

salmon on sticks over alderwood coals,” chef David Buchanan<br />

explained. “We leave the skin on the salmon and use ironwood<br />

sticks to skewer the fillets—running the sticks tightly between<br />

skin and flesh.” After the fish has been seasoned, the sticks are<br />

angled over the coals.<br />

According to Buchanan, this slow-roasting method draws out<br />

the fish’s natural oils and lends a hint of smokiness to the flavor.<br />

Blackfish always serves wild salmon (never farmed), sourced<br />

primarily from Alaska and Washington.<br />

“The salmon on a stick preparation both reflects and<br />

maintains a portion of tribal history,” Buchanan said. “There<br />

is so much more here than just a piece of fish for dinner. It is<br />

about tradition, respect for Mother Earth, thankfulness and<br />

sharing with friends and family. A tribal member finds the<br />

ironwood locally by foraging for it in the wild. It is actually cut<br />

from oceanspray, which is indigenous to our area. A prayer of<br />

thankfulness is offered to the plant before harvesting only what<br />

is needed. He then hand-carves each stick.”<br />

Similarly, an annual celebration honors the salmon for<br />

providing sustenance and expresses gratitude for those who<br />

have harvested and prepared it. As part of tribal tradition, any<br />

salmon that falls from the sticks can’t be served. Instead, this<br />

piece of fish gets offered to ancestors by “feeding the fire.” “All<br />

these things are important to the culture of the tribe, and we<br />

have the opportunity to keep a portion of this culture alive<br />

every day,” Buchanan said.<br />

Home Prep<br />

Valencia said his favorite way to prepare salmon is “smoked,<br />

low and slow.” “Buy fresh!” he advised. “And don’t be afraid of<br />

three things. One—season generously with kosher salt. Pepper<br />

the salmon after it is cooked so the pepper does not scorch during<br />

the cooking process. Two—heat your pan before you cook the<br />

fish, giving it a better sear. Three—eat it pink in the center.”<br />

There’s no denying that salmon from this region has made a<br />

name for itself—and for very good reason. “I think what makes<br />

it delicious is that it is a part of the Seattle culture, and, when<br />

I think of [salmon], I cannot separate the city from the fish,”<br />

Valencia said.<br />

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 25

farm to table<br />

Washington Recipes<br />

Salmon<br />

Worth<br />

Savoring<br />

Salmon Aguachile<br />

SEATTLE / Brimmer & Heeltap<br />

David Valencia<br />

SERVES 6-8<br />


2 ¾ cups water<br />

¼ cup sugar<br />

2 ¼ tablespoons salt<br />

1 salmon fillet, 3-5 pounds<br />


1 white onion, charred<br />

1 bunch cilantro<br />

3 serrano peppers, charred<br />

2 ¼ cup fresh squeezed lime juice<br />

Salt to taste<br />


10-12 radishes, sliced thin<br />

13 ½ tablespoons water<br />

13 ½ tablespoons red wine vinegar<br />

13 ½ tablespoons sugar<br />

2 teaspoons salt<br />


Combine all ingredients until well dissolved<br />

and place salmon in brine for at least one<br />

day. Cut salmon to quarter-inch cuts.<br />


Char white onion and serranos on an open<br />

flame. Once charred, place in blender with<br />

cilantro and lime juice and blend. Season<br />

with salt to taste.<br />


Combine water, sugar, salt and vinegar<br />

and pour over radishes. Let them pickle<br />

for at least a day or two.<br />


Place cut salmon in a bowl with a little<br />

aguachile to season fish. Place on plate<br />

with pickled radishes, fresh red onion<br />

and cilantro.<br />

Shio Koji Cured Grilled Salmon.<br />

Shio Koji Cured Grilled Salmon<br />

SEATTLE / Wa’z<br />

Hiro Tawara<br />

SERVES 2<br />

2 salmon filets, 2-4 ounces<br />

3 tablespoons shio koji (fermented<br />

rice)<br />

2 tablespoons grated daikon radish<br />

4 tablespoons “tosazu” vinaigrette<br />


4 teaspoon rice vinegar<br />

1 tablespoon mirin<br />

1 teaspoon Usukuchi (light color<br />

soy)<br />

1 tablespoon dashi<br />

Spread shio koji on both sides of the<br />

salmon filets and store in a resealable<br />

plastic bag. Marinate a minimum of 2<br />

hours or up to overnight.<br />

Set the oven to broil on high and grill<br />

the fish for 4 minutes on one side. Turn<br />

fish over and broil an additional 1 minute<br />

until cooked through. Time may vary<br />

slightly depending on the thickness of<br />

the filets.<br />

Mix the grated daikon radish with<br />

tosazu vinaigrette and put it next to<br />

the salmon. Other additions can include<br />

green strawberry, salmon egg and grilled<br />

garlic scapes.<br />

Alaskan King Salmon Crudo<br />

UNION / Alderbrook Resort & Spa<br />

Ben Jones<br />

SERVES 4-5<br />

16 1-ounce slices freshly sliced<br />

raw king salmon<br />

4 ounces lime juice<br />

4 ounces olive oil<br />

32 lime segments<br />

Lime zest<br />

Black pepper (2 twists from<br />

a grinder)<br />

7 tarragon leaves<br />

1-2 sorrel leaves, gently torn<br />

1 mint leaf, torn to small pieces<br />

½ teaspoon flaked sea salt<br />

Lavosh crackers long enough<br />

to cover the plate<br />

Place lime segments on top of the<br />

slices of salmon and also squeeze<br />

a little on top of each piece. Zest a<br />

quarter lime over each plate.<br />

Add black pepper, tarragon, sorrel,<br />

mint and flaked sea salt. Cover plate<br />

with Lavosh crackers and top with<br />

the crudo.<br />


For more Washington recipes,<br />

head to <strong>1889</strong>mag.com/recipes

Meet the Locals<br />

Whether you’re a pro photographer or<br />

just serious about your Instagram, snap<br />

photos of all manner of wildlife all the<br />

way around the Loop.<br />

#wildlifeofthecascadeloop<br />

FREE Travel Guide<br />

cascadeloop.com<br />

Visit the island you can drive to! anacortes.org 360.293.3832

home + design<br />

Float On<br />

Houseboats have been a part of Seattle since the city’s<br />

early days—we step inside two modern versions<br />

written by Melissa Dalton<br />

28 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong>

home + design<br />

Benjamin Benschneider<br />

FROM LEFT The exterior of the South Lake Union houseboat features cedar siding, barn wood, red-painted metal and a large<br />

pair of eyes. Art is everywhere inside the houseboat.<br />

An Artistic Houseboat on South Lake Union<br />

Benjamin Benschneider<br />

Every remodel comes with its revelations.<br />

In 2011, a couple bought this floating home<br />

just a few slips down from their own, with<br />

the understanding that they would tweak a<br />

few fixtures and finishes to free the interior<br />

of its early ’90s aesthetic. (Think curved<br />

walls, glass blocks and institutional pink.)<br />

Upon finding water damage, however, the<br />

superficial makeover grew into a much bigger<br />

undertaking. “It was going to be a really light<br />

touch at first,” said architect Jim Graham<br />

of Graham Baba Architects, the firm that<br />

worked with the homeowners. Once the<br />

demolition started and the water infiltration<br />

was discovered, plans changed. “All of the<br />

walls were filled with mold,” Graham said.<br />

“That’s when [the project] really ballooned<br />

into, ‘All right, let’s change everything.’”<br />

Faced with a much more extensive<br />

renovation, the homeowners decided to<br />

personalize every inch of the houseboat<br />

to their taste, starting with the façade. The<br />

original exterior was a mishmash of features.<br />

“It was extremely dated and, stylistically,<br />

it was a Franken-house,” Graham said. He<br />

paired up with contractor Dave Boone to<br />

instill cohesiveness by swapping the kitschy<br />

green-painted shingles for streamlined<br />

horizontal cedar siding, inset panels of<br />

reclaimed barn wood and red-painted metal,<br />

and a stern wrapped in vertical zinc panels. “I<br />

wanted to make sense of the massing in a way<br />

that broke down the chunkiness of the box,”<br />

Graham said.<br />

Once the water damage was remediated<br />

inside, the team’s goal was to “clean up<br />

inefficiencies” and create the perfect backdrop<br />

for the owners’ creative decorative style. In the<br />

open-concept living area on the upper level,<br />

this meant first addressing the view. After all,<br />

the clients were moving down the dock for the<br />

new houseboat’s prime location. “It’s at the<br />

end of the dock so it’s not pinned in. It has this<br />

great outward approach where the view is so<br />

much better,” Graham said. “Those houseboats<br />

tend to be pretty hemmed in. You have your<br />

dockside and your water side that’s open, but<br />

this one has three sides” fronting the water.<br />

A poorly positioned fireplace and stingy<br />

windows in the living area, however, were<br />

the de facto focal point. So the team replaced<br />

the entire wall with 18 feet of Nano doors.<br />

These now open to a deck encased<br />

with a sleek cable railing, ensuring<br />

unobstructed sightlines from the<br />

kitchen and the couch. Quirky<br />

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 29

home + design<br />

Ed Sozinho<br />

FROM LEFT The Wards Cove houseboat’s kitchen has walnut and white polyester-finished cabinetry. Outdoor living is easy on a houseboat.<br />

additions, like a fire pole that connects the kitchen to the entry<br />

and a diving board off the deck, help to weave in the owners’ funloving<br />

personalities.<br />

Nowhere is this more apparent than in the artistic flair of the<br />

décor. Whether it’s the striking Tibetan Buddha eyes painted on<br />

the exterior or the wall in the living room swathed in a photo mural<br />

of the marina, there’s art at every turn. “The good thing is that it<br />

was full of mold,” Graham said of the houseboat’s transformation.<br />

“It gave us the ability to blow it all out, redo the plan, and clean it<br />

up.” And in the process, create a home that’s become the family’s<br />

work of art.<br />

A Social Hub in Wards Cove<br />

After a 2010 trip to Thailand, where Kevin Gaspari saw waterbased<br />

communities in Bangkok, he became enamored with life<br />

on the water. This was a feasible pursuit in his home city of Seattle.<br />

“Houseboats are quintessential Seattle living,” said Gaspari,<br />

who works as a Realtor. In 2012, he and husband Kent Thoelke<br />

purchased a slip in Wards Cove, a former salmon processing<br />

center on Lake Union that was converted into a private marina<br />

with twelve houseboat moorings, just across the waves from Gas<br />

Works Park. “We heard about Wards Cove being built, and it<br />

was supposed to be the last dock space available to build floating<br />

homes, so we pounced,” Gaspari said.<br />

The couple then teamed up with architect Brian Brand of<br />

Baylis Architects and Trend Construction to create their ideal<br />

modern floating home, which would depart from the look of<br />

Seattle’s early houseboats. “They started as logging shanties for<br />

the timber industry. People would build their houses on the<br />

logs and move them around the lake as they cleared the timber,”<br />

Gaspari said. “We wanted a more modern aesthetic.”<br />

Since there were height and width restrictions for the<br />

structure, it was “basically a cube,” said Brand, who endeavored<br />

to “break the box up a little bit” with a medley of metal and<br />

fiber cement panels, and cedar siding. Inside the main living<br />

area, there are no structural walls or columns, so a series of 30-<br />

foot steel beams provides the framework and sets the tone for<br />

the materials palette. Warm oak floors offer a counterpoint to<br />

the steel, and strategic window placement pulls the focus to the<br />

view outside. In the kitchen, walnut and white polyester-finished<br />

cabinets seem to float against the glass, while an entire wall of<br />

floor-to-ceiling glass doors overlooks the lake.<br />

The couple decorated the interior themselves. “I sell real estate,<br />

so I’ve been in lots and lots of homes. I’ve just picked up what I<br />

think looks great and works for us,” Gaspari said, describing their<br />

approach as “modern without being cold.” Classic Mid-century<br />

furnishings deliver striking silhouettes, while careful doses of<br />

color and pattern, such as the powder room’s bright orange<br />

sconces and inky wallpaper, personalize the scheme.<br />

Life on the water has its share of surprises, chief among them<br />

the amount of lake traffic that cruises by on a daily basis. The<br />

calls of the morning crew team could act as an alarm clock,<br />

Gaspari joked. “There’s always a moving view and it’s always<br />

really interesting to me,” he said. “It almost feels resort-like, like a<br />

vacation when we come home.” This is compounded by the ease<br />

with which they can entertain on the new houseboat, thanks to<br />

a roof deck and the indoor-outdoor flow, which has prompted<br />

another happy discovery—their tight-knit neighborhood<br />

community. “Our neighbors are fantastic,” said Gaspari, citing<br />

trips to Napa to bottle wine together (under the label Four Floats)<br />

and regular barbecues. “As a Realtor, I’m always ready to sell or<br />

buy, but I think this will be our forever home,” he said. “This is so<br />

unique that we wouldn’t want to leave it.”<br />

30 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong>

Ed Sozinho<br />

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 31

home + design<br />

Benjamin Benschneider<br />

DIY: Incorporate Art into Your Home<br />

THE ARTISTIC FLAIR in the South Lake Union houseboat has us inspired. Here’s<br />

how the homeowners achieve such an artful effect in their interior décor.<br />

1<br />

2<br />

4<br />


The homeowners affixed a section of a vintage<br />

Golden Girl Cola sign to the front of the kitchen<br />

island. The texture of the sign lends an unexpected<br />

break in the fir cabinetry, while the colors relate to<br />

the nearby yellow-painted wall.<br />


The stairwell wall, dubbed the “Sunshine Wall,” was<br />

painted a bright yellow as a bright backdrop for<br />

various pieces of art.<br />


Anything can become art if it’s displayed right.<br />

“For one of the doors we collected beer bottle caps<br />

from all over the world and just hammered them<br />

around a mirror,” said architect Jim Graham.<br />


The Plexiglass in the kitchen cabinets is lined<br />

with photos from the family’s travels and backlit<br />

5<br />

with interior cupboard lights. The goal, said the<br />

homeowner, was not to necessarily see the images<br />

clearly but to set the mood.<br />


In a nod to the aquatic neighborhood, the<br />

homeowner worked with a lighting designer to<br />

create the silk fabric overhead lights in the living<br />

area, in order to evoke jellyfish or bubbles rising<br />

out of the water. Each fixture has various colored<br />

bulbs inside in order to cast a different glow<br />

depending on the occasion.<br />


Since the family loves to travel, they pick up<br />

treasures along the way and weave those into their<br />

décor. For instance, one bedroom has a handcarved<br />

door from Morocco. The photo mural of the<br />

marina in the living area was photographed by a<br />

good friend of the family.<br />

32 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong>

home + design<br />

Go Bold with Artsy Goods<br />

from Pacific Northwest Makers<br />

Artist Gina Coffman studied biology, art, and landscape architecture<br />

in college and graduate school, and her paper mobiles reflect her<br />

diverse background. Made from high-quality construction paper or<br />

cardstock, each design is a synergy of color, shape and movement<br />

that draws inspiration from the natural world.<br />

coffmanmobiles.com<br />

Brighten the inside of your<br />

cupboard with a handmade,<br />

8-ounce drinking glass from<br />

Glassybaby, a glass-blowing<br />

outfit with hot shops in<br />

Seattle, Lake Oswego<br />

and Berkeley. The glasses<br />

come in twenty-three<br />

hues across the spectrum,<br />

from a vibrant pink to an<br />

iridescent “fizz” color to a<br />

more mellow topaz.<br />

glassybaby.com<br />

Adorn the nearest wall with the<br />

distinctive Floe Hook from the<br />

Portland-based Bosque Design. The<br />

hooks are hand-cast in bronze in<br />

Oregon and have concealed hardware,<br />

all the better to keep the attention on<br />

the shape, which is intended to recall<br />

floating chunks of ice on a calm sea.<br />

bosque-design.com<br />

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 33

mind + body<br />

Cole Paton is a pro mountain biker for Giant.<br />

Reading, Writing<br />

& Professional Riding<br />

Cole Paton mixes college and pro cycling<br />

written by Sheila G. Miller<br />

MOST 20-YEAR-OLDS spend the summer between<br />

their sophomore and junior years of college slinging<br />

beers at a bar, perhaps photocopying endless packets<br />

at an internship.<br />

Then there’s Cole Paton, a professional mountain<br />

biker from Cashmere, Washington, who will<br />

spend his summer traveling the world with<br />

his team, the Giant Factory Off-Road Team.<br />

Cameron Baird<br />

34 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong>

mind + body<br />

So, not your average 20-year-old. Take<br />

heart, at least, that he’s the youngest guy<br />

on the team and one of two rookies (the<br />

other is his college teammate, Stephan<br />

Davoust, 23). In contrast, Giant’s third<br />

cross-country pro is a 43-year-old who<br />

has been biking professionally almost as<br />

long as Paton has been alive.<br />

Paton came to cycling in about<br />

the most natural way possible. His<br />

family owns Arlberg Sports, a bike<br />

shop with locations in Wenatchee<br />

and Leavenworth.<br />

“I was kind of always the little shop<br />

boy riding around chasing everyone,” he<br />

said. “My dad took me to a few of these<br />

local races around here, and I just fell<br />

in love.”<br />

In high school, Paton ran cross<br />

country competitively for a few years.<br />

“But then I decided that riding bikes<br />

is a lot more fun, so I made the switch<br />

over my sophomore year,” he said. “I<br />

started following the Pro XCT circuit<br />

and there’s been no looking back since.”<br />

Being on Giant’s factory team has<br />

helped Paton’s racing.<br />

“Giant is helping me get to a lot more<br />

races, and then we have factory team<br />

support at every race, mechanics and all<br />

the equipment and stuff we would need,”<br />

he said. “It’s just a lot more support<br />

from the team and the company, which<br />

is really nice and allows a lot more doors<br />

to be opened.”<br />

But just because he’s a bike<br />

wunderkind doesn’t mean he wanted<br />

to skip straight to life as a professional<br />

racer. He is currently studying at Fort<br />

Lewis College in Durango, Colorado.<br />

“I wanted to go to school, just because<br />

education is really important to me,”<br />

Paton said. “But I also wanted to go to<br />

a place that would allow me to continue<br />

cycling and bring me to another level.<br />

The only school I really could find that<br />

would really fit that was Fort Lewis, and<br />

I couldn’t be happier with that choice.”<br />

Fort Lewis College has a very active<br />

cycling program—more than 100 riders,<br />

including his Giant teammate Davoust.<br />

Plus, the season is from <strong>September</strong> to<br />

November, after he’s finished riding for<br />

Giant each year.<br />

“It’s pure collegiate racing,” he said.<br />

During the winter and early spring,<br />

Paton gets ready for the racing season<br />

with “more hours than intensity.” He<br />

also spends a lot more time in the gym<br />

working on strength. “I spend a lot more<br />

time putting myself under,” he said.<br />

Once the pro season starts, he<br />

averages about sixteen hours a week<br />

on the bike, but with more intensity.<br />

For the not so important races, Paton<br />

continues to train through them and use<br />

them as workouts. For more important<br />

races, the team tapers its training for<br />

several weeks. During the season,<br />

Paton visits the gym once or twice to do<br />

maintenance strength work.<br />

Depending on his workout, Paton<br />

changes his diet. If he does a hard ride,<br />

he eats plenty of carbs. If he’s taking it<br />

easy, it’s about healthy protein and fats.<br />

More than anything, he’s hungry all<br />

the time.<br />

“I cannot get enough food in,” he said,<br />

laughing. “I eat so much. That’s a main<br />

thing that concerns my coach, eating<br />

enough. I try to do that with healthy<br />

carbs and all that, but I’m taking in, like,<br />

5,000 or 6,000 calories a day. I’m still<br />

growing. It’s a real pain (to eat so much),<br />

but it works.”<br />

That’s made a bit more challenging<br />

with the beer-and-pizza ethos of college.<br />

“It’s nice because I’m not in the<br />

dorms anymore,” Paton said. “That was<br />

impossible. But being able to cook what<br />

I want to cook is a lot better.”<br />

Paton is currently targeting the U23<br />

U.S. national championships as his<br />

goal race this year. He’ll also compete<br />

in <strong>August</strong> in the Mont-Sainte-Anne<br />

Mountain Bike World Cup event in<br />

Canada, and in May he raced in Germany<br />

and Czech Republic in another world<br />

cup race.<br />

Long term, Paton has his eyes set<br />

on the Olympics—likely 2024, but<br />

he’s going to give 2020 a shot. Short<br />

term, he would like to win a national<br />

championship.<br />

“It’s been awesome to ride with Giant,<br />

and the team is a great environment,” he<br />

said. “I want to just keep having fun and<br />

riding bikes.”<br />

Cole Paton<br />

Professional Cyclist<br />

Age: 20<br />

Hometown: Cashmere, WA<br />

Current Location: Durango, CO<br />


• Riding 6 days a week.<br />

• Intervals 3 to 5 times a week<br />

• Long recovery ride once a<br />

week<br />

• Strength, balance and<br />

coordination training 2-3 times<br />

a week<br />

• Core training every day<br />

• Technical/skills training 2-3<br />

times a week<br />

• Stretching and self-massage<br />

every day<br />


Favorite pre-race meal: Rice<br />

and egg stir fry—it’s low fiber<br />

and easily digestible<br />

Favorite superfood meal:<br />

Grilled salmon with sweet potato<br />

and Brussels sprouts<br />

Performance foods: Beets,<br />

bananas, pickle juice, blueberries,<br />

fish (salmon), avocado, Brussels<br />

sprouts, nuts<br />


The combination of being a<br />

competitor and loving to be on<br />

two wheels fuels my appetite<br />

for racing.<br />

I’ve had many mentors and<br />

figures inspire me to race, but, at<br />

the end of the day, the biggest<br />

inspiration always comes from<br />

within. I want to get better for<br />

myself, I want to succeed just<br />

as anyone would, and I want to<br />

reach my goals. When training<br />

gets hard (which it often does!) I<br />

remind myself that it’s supposed<br />

to be hard! Cross country<br />

mountain biking is an individual<br />

sport, and my motivation to<br />

succeed has always been my<br />

biggest inspiration.<br />

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 35

artist in residence<br />

Pasta maker Linda Miller Nicholson uses vegetable purées and other natural ingredients to create her tinted pasta dough.<br />

Oh, the Pastabilities!<br />

Linda Miller Nicholson turns pasta into high art<br />

written by Gina Williams | photography by Jim Henkens<br />

“YOU CAUGHT ME in high experiment mode today,” Linda Miller Nicholson said as she made me<br />

an espresso in the gleaming kitchen of her home near Snoqualmie Falls.<br />

Nicholson, also known as the “Lady Gaga of Pasta” and the “Pasta Ninja,” was a ray of sunshine<br />

on an otherwise dark, stormy day, dressed in bright reds and floral prints. She was ready for action,<br />

with rounds of crimson and white pasta dough placed on a large wooden work surface.<br />

An Instagram sensation (@SaltySeattle) with more<br />

than 150,000 followers, Nicholson is known for her<br />

highly expressive way with pasta. She created the “Girl<br />

with a Noodle Earring” after Johannes Vermeer’s famous<br />

work, and made a pasta version of Van Gogh’s “Starry<br />

Night.” Katy Perry’s manager asked her to make a pasta<br />

portrait of the singer for Perry’s “Bon Appétit” single<br />

album cover. Nicholson also contributes to Buzzfeed and<br />

the Food Network and teaches pasta-making workshops.<br />

She’s appeared on television shows such as “Harry” and<br />

“Home & Family.” Her first book, Pasta, Pretty Please,<br />

is coming out in October. Although she turned to pasta<br />

dough as her medium of choice for high art only several<br />

years ago, she first began earning her pasta chops as a kid,<br />

making thick noodles with her German grandfather. She<br />

also competed on a cooking reality show, “Masterchef,”<br />

in 2010 and honed her skills in the kitchens of Italy while<br />

living there as an English teacher.<br />

Nicholson pulled a handful of crimson dough from the<br />

round and began flattening it in her silver pasta machine,<br />

handling the dough with easy, flowing movements. “It<br />

is mesmerizing, isn’t it?” she said. “During productions,<br />

even the camera guys sometimes get caught up in<br />

watching the process.”<br />

A few minutes later, the project took shape, Nicholson<br />

revealing both her artistic talent and her rebellious<br />

side. She worked the dough like a dressmaker, carefully<br />

pleating it and working deftly with the drape as if it was<br />

fine fabric rather than a sticky mixture of flour<br />

and eggs. Next, she made little white cones,<br />

glancing occasionally at images on her phone<br />

to help with styling.<br />

36 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTONS’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong>

artist in residence<br />

Linda Miller Nicholson holds a tray of her<br />

pasta creations. She started experimenting<br />

with unusual shapes and colors when her<br />

son went through a picky food phase.<br />

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 37

Creating striped ravioli is a multi-step process.

artist in residence<br />

“I finally found my medium. I’ve been making pasta my entire<br />

life, but nobody said that’s art. Keep doing what you’re doing<br />

if you’re passionate about it. What I’m doing now is the<br />

culmination of everything that led up to this point.”<br />

— Linda Miller Nicholson<br />

“Today is the only day I have to do what<br />

I want to do,” she said, continuing to pleat<br />

and fold the red garments.<br />

Busy with appearances, workshops and<br />

handling the business side of her work,<br />

Nicholson also remains in high demand<br />

for commissions.<br />

At the top of her “Who I’d most like to<br />

have over for dinner and make a pasta face<br />

of” list is Ellen DeGeneres. She said the<br />

very idea is intimidating. “I can’t get Ellen<br />

wrong!” Next is Christopher Walken.<br />

“Wouldn’t he be great?” Last but not least,<br />

Yoda. “He won’t be upset if I get it wrong.”<br />

“I think I’ll do Ellen first,” she said.<br />

Soon, Nicholson’s full vision for<br />

the day’s experiment came into view,<br />

as she put the pieces together and—<br />

voilà! Suddenly, we weren’t in northern<br />

Washington anymore, but Gilead, as a<br />

group of perfectly formed tiny women<br />

in crimson robes and white bonnets ala<br />

“Handmaid’s Tale” appeared to march<br />

across the flour-dusted counter. All of<br />

Nicholson’s work is edible, and later,<br />

she would lightly boil the “maids,” pipe<br />

a ricotta mixture into the robes and<br />

perhaps plate them with a red sauce—<br />

another delightful meal with a message.<br />

Nicholson said she was told early on<br />

she wasn’t artistic, but the desire to create<br />

never left her.<br />

As a teen, she tried her hand at sewing<br />

clothing. “My magnum opus was a pair<br />

of patchwork bell-bottom pants that I<br />

literally sewed polished brass bells onto<br />

the bottoms of,” she said. She cinched<br />

them up with a drawstring and wore them<br />

to school. The bells made such a ruckus<br />

she was sent home.<br />


Pasta, Pretty Please:<br />

A Vibrant Approach to<br />

Creative Handmade Noodles<br />

Linda Miller Nicholson’s<br />

first book will be<br />

published in October. The<br />

book, full of recipes for all<br />

levels of home cooks, will<br />

feature instructions for<br />

twenty-five colors of pasta<br />

dough, tinted with natural<br />

ingredients.<br />

The “playful and inviting”<br />

book will include recipes,<br />

techniques, tips and inspiration<br />

for doughs, shapes<br />

and sauces—from “Hearts<br />

and Stripes Pappardelle”<br />

and “Emoji Ravioli” to<br />

“Golden Milk Ragu” and<br />

“Pepperoni Pizza Filling.”<br />

Learn more about Linda<br />

and her art, workshops,<br />

video tutorials and more at<br />

saltyseattle.com.<br />

She first began experimenting with<br />

pasta when her son, Bentley Danger,<br />

went through a picky food phase. She<br />

began making nontraditional pasta<br />

shapes and brightly colored dough using<br />

natural ingredients like turmeric, harissa<br />

and vegetable purées, such as beet and<br />

spinach. At that point, her creativity<br />

took off.<br />

“I finally found my medium,” she said.<br />

“I’ve been making pasta my entire life, but<br />

nobody said that’s art. Keep doing what<br />

you’re doing if you’re passionate about it.<br />

What I’m doing now is the culmination of<br />

everything that led up to this point.”<br />

Nicholson, who never turns away from<br />

a pasta pun, good or bad, said that with<br />

pasta as her medium, not only are the<br />

artistic “pastabilities” endless, but creating<br />

with food allows her to accomplish her<br />

larger goal of bringing people together,<br />

opening authentic conversations and<br />

making the world a better and more<br />

beautiful place.<br />

Much of her work is whimsical and<br />

fun—bright rainbow pasta, colorful<br />

figures and brilliant geometric designs—<br />

inspired by her love of fine art, nature and<br />

fashion. But Nicholson doesn’t shy away<br />

from the occasional political message or<br />

bold statement. And all her work is “more<br />

than dough deep.”<br />

“It’s more than just a pretty piece of<br />

pasta,” she said as she carefully adjusted<br />

the bonnet on one of the handmaids.<br />

“Not everyone has to appreciate art, but<br />

everyone has to eat. It gives me a bridge.<br />

I like that what I do has the power to<br />

bridge gaps and foster togetherness across<br />

political lines.”<br />

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 39

STARTUP 42<br />

WHAT’S GOING UP 44<br />




pg. 48<br />

Meet the hops whisperer of Segal Ranch.

startup<br />

The Leftovers<br />

WISErg seeks to eliminate food waste<br />

written by Sheila G. Miller<br />

WISErg’s liquid fertilizer is being used<br />

throughout North and South America.<br />

TAKE A GROUP of high-tech software experts, add a few scientists and an interest in eliminating food waste.<br />

What do you get? WISErg, a company that is taking grocery stores’ leftover food and converting it into highquality<br />

organic fertilizer.<br />

It started with an idea to measure food waste in local grocery stores. Brian Valentine, WISErg’s CEO and a<br />

former Microsoft and Amazon executive, tells it like this: In 2009, Jose Lugo and Larry LaSueur approached<br />

Valentine with an idea. The three had all worked at Microsoft together (“We’re software people,” Valentine said)<br />

and LaSueur and Lugo had an idea to collect data on food waste. “Can we collect data on what is being thrown<br />

away behind grocery stores that we can give back to the grocery store manager?” Valentine asked. “Then that<br />

will help them to manage their inventory better. That was the original concept.”<br />

“Like most startups, if anybody tells you they had a clue<br />

where the idea would take them, they’re lying to you,” Valentine<br />

said, laughing.<br />

The company has grown from there.<br />

WISErg has found a value stream in food waste, and Valentine<br />

believes there are other businesses to develop from that. “We<br />

definitely want to continue to expand,” he said. “There’s so much<br />

of this waste out there. The more we can upcycle, as opposed to<br />

recycle or throw away, it’s just better.”<br />

He points to three prongs of eliminating food waste. The first<br />

is upcycling, like WISErg does. The second, which Valentine<br />

said we don’t do very well, is diverting waste—whether by<br />

sending edible leftovers to food pantries or otherwise diverting<br />

it from the landfill.<br />

42 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong>

startup<br />

“If you can make money, great,” he<br />

said. “But socially we should all be<br />

appalled by how much of this waste<br />

could be eaten by humans.”<br />

we could make a gallon of liquid<br />

fertilizer. The next step was, ‘How do<br />

you scale that from a manufacturing<br />

standpoint?’”<br />

The third prong is reduction—how<br />

Those fifteen stores produce<br />

to avoid having leftover produce at<br />

enough food waste to create<br />

grocery stores, for example.<br />

5 million gallons of fertilizer<br />

Those three prongs—diversion,<br />

each year.<br />

reduction and upcycling—done<br />

“The problem isn’t acquiring the<br />

correctly, result in so little waste that<br />

it’s “not even really waste anymore,”<br />

Valentine said.<br />

To measure the food coming out<br />

of the back of the store, the company<br />

developed the Harvester, a selfcontained<br />

unit that takes a large<br />

volume of food scraps otherwise<br />

material,” Valentine said. “There are<br />

4,000 grocery stores on the West<br />

Coast. The challenge as a company<br />

is getting the product accepted in<br />

the market.”<br />

WISErg’s fertilizer is 100 percent<br />

sustainable from a waste resource,<br />

making it different from most<br />

headed for the landfill and turns<br />

other fertilizers. Many organic<br />

those scraps, including hard stuff<br />

like bones, into a liquid that is used<br />

for fertilizer. Three generations of<br />

the machine later, the Harvester is<br />

in fifteen locations around Seattle—<br />

at the back of some Whole Foods,<br />

PCC Markets and Costcos around<br />

the region.<br />

During the design process, a<br />

The Harvester turns food waste to liquid.<br />

fertilizers are fish-based, which isn’t<br />

sustainable because of overfishing.<br />

Other organic fertilizers are made<br />

with manure, which raises foodsafety<br />

issues.<br />

“The first thing that happens<br />

when you walk onto a grower’s<br />

property is they look at you like<br />

the latest snake-oil salesman who<br />

professor at the University of Arizona asked the obvious<br />

question: “What do we do with what comes out of the back<br />

of the machine?” It seemed a shame to let such high-nutrient<br />

material go to waste. At first, the company considered turning<br />

the processed food waste into some sort of bio-gas. “That went<br />

on for a couple years and didn’t really pan out,” Valentine said.<br />

Eventually, someone suggested the food waste be converted<br />

into liquid, organic fertilizer.<br />

“All of the material in the food waste is super high nutrient,”<br />

Valentine said. “We had to figure out how to capture the<br />

nutrients, not let it get away.” When food sits in a curbside<br />

dumpster in the sun, it rots and those nutrients disappear.<br />

Most of the food that’s thrown away at grocery stores is<br />

taken off the shelves because it’s at or past its sell-by date, not<br />

because it has gone bad. The Harvester captures the food while<br />

it’s still fresh and full of nutrients. Because it’s self-contained,<br />

there are no odors, no pests, and no leaks into storm drains.<br />

“We solve a bunch of problems for grocery stores,” Valentine<br />

said. Plus, grocery stores pay the company for the material.<br />

The company created a biological process that stabilizes<br />

the food inside the Harvester to prevent the nutrients from<br />

disappearing. Finally, the company developed a process to turn<br />

the stabilized food waste into a liquid that can be turned into<br />

fertilizer that is 100 percent certified organic.<br />

“It took about five years to figure all that stuff out,” Valentine<br />

said. “Then, finally, we had developed the biology so that<br />

promised the world but couldn’t deliver,” Valentine said. “This<br />

is an industry of crazy product promises that couldn’t deliver.<br />

So you have to get through that first.”<br />

The agricultural business community can be a little slow<br />

to adopt new products. It takes trial cycles, and a cycle is a<br />

growing season. Many farmers have agreed to try the fertilizer<br />

on small sections of their land as a trial.<br />

“By the second trial they’re typically now starting to believe,”<br />

Valentine said. Though there’s little data, Valentine said he<br />

believes WISErg is the largest liquid certified organic fertilizer<br />

exporter to Mexico and the second largest on the West Coast.<br />

Today, the company has a plant in Redmond that converts<br />

4 million gallons of liquid fertilizer a year. The company is<br />

selling fertilizer in Central and South America, the U.S. and<br />

Mexico. “We just started shipping product to Costa Rica and<br />

Chile,” he said.<br />

As the fertilizer gains in popularity, Valentine said, there are<br />

stores lined up to install a Harvester.<br />

In the meantime, Valentine said it’s about feeling like you’re<br />

doing something that helps the planet. Valentine has worked<br />

for Amazon and Microsoft—he’s seen innovation before. “But<br />

nothing is as satisfying as this,” Valentine said. “My wife asks<br />

me, ‘How was your day today?’ And the joke in our family<br />

has become, ‘Just saving the world one day at a time!’ It’s a<br />

different feeling, being able to do something like that, that<br />

might make a difference.”<br />

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 43

what’s going up?<br />

The Spheres, Amazon’s collaborative<br />

workspace in Seattle, has plants and water<br />

features throughout the building.<br />

Coming Attractions<br />

New reasons to visit Washington cities<br />

written by Sheila G. Miller<br />

Photos: Jordan Stead/Amazon<br />

IF YOU’RE TAKING advantage of the warm weather to head out on a road<br />

trip, we’ve got a few recently completed or in-progress attractions for you.<br />


In Spokane, Riverfront Park is in<br />

the midst of redevelopment. The<br />

park was the site of the World’s Fair<br />

Expo ’74, but hadn’t been updated<br />

in more than forty years. In 2014,<br />

Spokane passed a $64 million bond to<br />

redevelop it. Improvements include a<br />

skate ribbon that opened last winter<br />

and changes to the building that<br />

houses the carrousel, also complete.<br />

Construction will continue<br />

through late 2020 on the U.S. Pavilion<br />

event centers, and through 2019 on a<br />

large playground devoted to telling<br />

the story of Ice Age floods. Other<br />

upgrades to the area are ongoing.<br />


In Vancouver, The Waterfront is<br />

32 acres of south-facing waterfront<br />

real estate. The $1.5 billion mixeduse<br />

development, which began<br />

construction in 2015, will provide<br />

new green spaces like public parks,<br />

walking and biking trails. In addition,<br />

there will be apartments and<br />

condominiums, up to 1.25 million<br />

square feet of commercial space,<br />

Hotel Indigo and The Shops on<br />

Waterfront Way.<br />


Finally, in Seattle, Amazon<br />

has completed The Spheres, a<br />

collaborative workspace with 40,000<br />

plants from around the world,<br />

water features, even paludariums,<br />

sometimes called garden aquariums.<br />

The structure opened at the end<br />

of January, and a restaurant from<br />

chef Renee Erickson, is expected to<br />

open this summer as well. There’s<br />

a visitor center called Understory<br />

at the base of the building, and the<br />

general public can schedule weekend<br />

visits to the building by going to<br />

seattlespheres.com.<br />

44 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong>

Ocean Shores<br />




what i’m working on<br />

Washingtonians from<br />

around the state are<br />

being trained to monitor<br />

bumble bee populations.<br />

Mapping Washington’s Bumble Bees<br />

Volunteers work to monitor the<br />

state’s bumble bee population<br />

interview by Nick Engelfried<br />

FOR RICH HATFIELD, senior conservation<br />

biologist with the Xerces Society for<br />

Invertebrate Conservation, the Pacific<br />

Northwest Bumble Bee Atlas marks the<br />

culmination of two decades of work<br />

studying wild pollinators. The project will<br />

enlist volunteers to monitor bumble bee<br />

populations across the region, gathering<br />

data for conservation projects. In early<br />

June, Hatfield led a training for volunteers<br />

in Wenatchee in partnership with the<br />

Washington Department of Fish and<br />

Wildlife. Another Washington training will<br />

take place west of the Cascades in 2019.<br />

How did you end up studying pollinators?<br />

Between undergrad and grad school I worked with Dr. Claire<br />

Kremen, then at the Center for Conservation Biology at<br />

Stanford University, comparing insect pollinators on organic<br />

versus conventional agricultural lands (Dr. Kremen is now at<br />

University of California, Berkeley). Through that project, I<br />

realized pollinators and benefits they provide create a strong<br />

conservation message. You can attach a dollar value to<br />

pollinators due to their clear ecosystem services, an economic<br />

piece that was missing from many other conservation projects.<br />

That really got me interested in continuing to study bees.<br />

What’s the significance of bumble bees?<br />

Not everyone realizes honey bees are a non-native species<br />

imported from Europe. We have about 3,600 North American<br />

native bees, including around fifty bumble bees. However,<br />

many native bees are tiny, and in grad school, I realized how<br />

hard it is to identify most without doing a whole PhD on them.<br />

Bumble bees are a workable group to identify and<br />

good ambassadors for native pollinators. They’re also<br />

major pollinators of crops like tomatoes, blueberries<br />

and cranberries. Eighty-five percent of plants require<br />

46 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong>

what i’m working on<br />

FROM LEFT Rich Hatfield trains volunteers on how to monitor bee populations. There are about 3,000 North American native bees.<br />

“I realized pollinators and benefits they provide create a strong<br />

conservation message. You can attach a dollar value to pollinators<br />

due to their clear ecosystem services, an economic piece that was<br />

missing from many other conservation projects. That really got<br />

me interested in continuing to study bees.”<br />

— Rich Hatfield, Xerces Society senior conservation biologist<br />

pollinators, and it’s not honey bees<br />

doing most of that work. Mostly it’s<br />

native pollinators.<br />

Can you tell me about the Bumble<br />

Bee Atlas?<br />

In 2014, we started Bumble Bee<br />

Watch, an online citizen-science<br />

platform where people submit photos<br />

of bumble bees they’ve spotted.<br />

We’ve had some 25,000 records<br />

submitted. The problem is they<br />

mostly correspond to population<br />

centers where people submitting the<br />

photos live, and from a conservation<br />

biology standpoint that’s not terribly<br />

useful. For the Bumble Bee Atlas<br />

we’ve divided Washington, Oregon<br />

and Idaho into 50-by-50-kilometer<br />

transects. We’re asking volunteers to<br />

adopt a grid cell and sample it at least<br />

twice a year using our standardized<br />

protocols. The idea is to conduct a<br />

more systematic survey.<br />

How can people help native<br />

pollinators?<br />

One great thing about pollinator<br />

conservation is you actually can do<br />

something about it. If you live in<br />

an apartment and put flowers in a<br />

pot on the porch, bees will show up.<br />

Good bee habitat means flowers<br />

blooming spring through fall, bare<br />

patches of ground and wood for<br />

nesting and overwintering sites, and<br />

having flowers be pesticide-free.<br />

Native plants are best because that’s<br />

what native bees evolved with. Visit<br />

the Pollinator Conservation Resource<br />

Center, bringbackthepollinators.org, for<br />

more information.<br />

What’s next for you and the Bumble<br />

Bee Atlas?<br />

I’ll be encouraging people to sign up<br />

as volunteers, because I can’t do this<br />

project without help. It would take<br />

me years to collect the data we’ll be<br />

gathering. Joining the project is a<br />

great way to learn how to become a<br />

wildlife watcher anywhere, even in your<br />

backyard or neighborhood park. A<br />

whole safari is waiting for you out there.<br />

I’ve raised my kids this way and it’s been<br />

huge for them, realizing they can go in<br />

the yard and find insects. If kids can<br />

grow up as little entomologists instead<br />

of being afraid of bugs, that’s a big deal,<br />

in my opinion.<br />

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 47

my workspace<br />

Martin Ramos, ranch manager of thirdgeneration<br />

hop farm Segal Ranch, has been<br />

working with hops for more than thirty<br />

years. Once dubbed the “hop whisperer,”<br />

Ramos was trained by USDA hop research<br />

scientist Chuck Zimmerman, a renowned<br />

innovator in creating new hop varieties.<br />

“I don’t think I possess any magical<br />

capabilities,” Ramos said. “I wish I did.”<br />

The 470-acre ranch grows ten<br />

varieties of aroma hops. “It’s<br />

a unique plant,” Ramos said of<br />

the perennial bine that grows<br />

on 20-foot poles throughout<br />

the Yakima Valley. “A lot of<br />

people, when they drive by<br />

and see all those poles, they<br />

wonder what it is.”<br />

My Workspace<br />

Among the Bines<br />

Life on a hop farm at Segal Ranch<br />

written and photographed by Catie Joyce-Bulay<br />

48 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong>

my workspace<br />

Martin also tends two small vegetable<br />

gardens on the farm, where he grows<br />

several types of hot peppers, including a<br />

variety he acquired on a trip to Mexico ten<br />

years ago. Every harvest, the brewers Segal<br />

Ranch works with are invited to a Mexicanstyle<br />

barbecue, with tortillas made fresh<br />

on-site and Ramos’s peppers flavoring the<br />

dishes, all complemented by the hoppy<br />

beers the brewers bring to the party—one<br />

of Ramos’s favorite parts of harvest.<br />

With the scent of fresh hops strong<br />

in the air during harvest, brewers<br />

gather at the ranch for selection,<br />

where they do the rub-and-smell<br />

test on different varieties harvested<br />

at different times to decide which<br />

they want to brew with. Ramos<br />

won’t make crop predictions at<br />

the beginning of the year—“Just<br />

when you think you understand<br />

this plant, it will surprise you”—<br />

but once the crop is harvested and<br />

he watches the brewers inhale the<br />

earthy aromas, he’s not nervous. “I<br />

know the hops are good.”<br />

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 49

game changer<br />

Hooked on Sustainability<br />

Following a new school of thought with<br />

line-caught, sustainable Pacific cod<br />

written by Corinne Whiting<br />

Blue North has efficiencies<br />

that make it sustainable.<br />

IN THE NORTHWEST, a pair of industrious, forward-thinking<br />

brothers continue to make waves in the fishing industry—in all<br />

the best ways. Originally from upstate New York, the duo felt<br />

the pull of Alaska in the ’70s, when they first dove deep into the<br />

world of fishing. They haven’t stopped since.<br />

In 2015, they launched the Humane Harvest Initiative,<br />

which “seeks to increase the recognition of fish as deserving<br />

of the same treatment standards that are already in place for<br />

livestock.” Then, in 2016, they put one of the most efficient, safe<br />

and sustainable hook-and-line fleets onto the clean waters of<br />

the North Pacific.<br />

Highlights of this revolutionary craft include modern crew<br />

accommodations and amenities, low greenhouse-gas emissions<br />

(fuel efficiencies and heat recovery) and processing efficiencies<br />

designed to fully utilize resources. “Although the vessel is the<br />

most modern long liner in the world, we still catch the cod fish<br />

the same way they did 150 years ago—on a hook, one at a time,”<br />

founder and vice-president Pat Burns explained. “That’s why<br />

this fishery is so sustainable.”<br />

Consumers can now enjoy what the Burns describe as “the<br />

highest-quality, frozen-at-sea products around.” Thanks to<br />

advanced technology, the fishermen use humane practices<br />

that “eliminate stress hormones to ensure less pain and fear<br />

for the fish at the time of harvest.” The result? According to<br />

a blind study conducted by the School of Food Science at<br />

Washington State University, a higher-quality, flakier fish that<br />

retains more health benefits than those exposed to traditional<br />

harvesting methods.<br />

Blue North’s Humane Harvest filets, which are processed<br />

within three hours of coming out of the water, are available at<br />

Town and Country and Central markets in the Puget Sound area,<br />

as well as several Seattle restaurants, like Pike Place Market’s<br />

Etta’s and Dahlia Lounge. “For those who are concerned about<br />

the ethical treatment of fish, the safety of fishermen and the<br />

health of our oceans, Humane Harvest is the gold standard for<br />

wild, line-caught Pacific cod,” founder and chairman Michael<br />

Burns said.<br />

The brothers agree that in order to make wise choices,<br />

consumers need to know where their food comes from and<br />

how it was raised, gathered or processed. “Get to know your<br />

fishermen, ask questions, and demand a high standard for<br />

yourself and family,” Mike Burns said. Pat Burns added, “Our<br />

job is not done yet. I’m concerned with how America eats, and<br />

I want to put every pound of cod fish that we catch onto a plate<br />

in the U.S. for all of us to enjoy this healthy, sustainably caught,<br />

humanely harvested, wild protein source.”<br />

“The Bering Sea fisheries are some of the best managed<br />

fisheries in the world,” he said. “We’ve constructed the Blue<br />

North with an eye to future. We are in it for the long haul. …<br />

The future of the cod fishery is very bright.”<br />

50 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong>

Dream big.<br />

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can help you start saving towards<br />

a brighter future.<br />

Explore your options at wastate529.wa.gov<br />

GET and DreamAhead are qualified tuition programs sponsored and distributed by the State of Washington.<br />

The Committee on Advanced Tuition Payment and College Savings administers and the Washington Student<br />

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lose money by investing in the plan. If in-state tuition decreases in the future, GET tuition units may lose value.<br />

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LOCAL<br />

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written by<br />

Corinne Whiting<br />

52 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong>







Some products, however, fly under the radar.<br />

Washington, for example, is the highest blueberryproducing<br />

state in the country, having yielded about<br />

120 million pounds in 2016. Washington asparagus,<br />

which comes in several varieties and is one of the first<br />

products to arrive each spring, supported the local<br />

economy in 2017 by bringing in $45 million.<br />

Sara Morris, president of The Beecher’s Foundation,<br />

launched by creative food company Sugar Mountain<br />

(famous for its award-winning Beecher’s Handmade<br />

Cheese), said food grown here proves so remarkable for<br />

many of the reasons the region is also home to countless<br />

entrepreneurs and tech pioneers. “There’s something<br />

in the water,” she said. “This region attracts a certain<br />

profile, and the rest of us get to benefit from that.”<br />

“Washington’s climate is ideal for organic production<br />

because there aren’t too many insect pests,” said Susan<br />

Ujcic, co-founder of Helsing Junction Farms (located<br />

outside of Olympia) with Anna Salafsky. “We also<br />

have a long growing season and summers that usually<br />

aren’t too hot.”<br />

In the educational yet approachable workshops<br />

Beecher’s Foundation hosts for adults and<br />

schoolchildren, Morris and her team discuss how food<br />

has evolved over time. The way Americans eat today,<br />

she noted, has dramatically shifted from how humans<br />

ate for centuries, leaving us far removed from “pure,<br />

real, true food.” She and her team recently launched<br />

a ten-year campaign “to change Puget Sound’s food<br />

for good.”<br />

“When we buy local or grow our own,” she said, “we<br />

are getting that much closer to the food source. … We<br />

know what we’re putting in our body and not harming<br />

the earth while we’re at it.”<br />

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 53









Matthew Mornick<br />

ABOVE Pike Place Market<br />

visitors look at pepper<br />

wreaths and garlands.<br />


Residents and visitors need only step foot<br />

into bustling Pike Place Market to experience<br />

the local food scene with all their senses. The<br />

market formed in 1907 when Seattle citizens<br />

became outraged at a ten-fold price increase in<br />

onions—as a result, farmers started selling their<br />

products on a vacant wooden roadway. Today<br />

the much-expanded Pike Place remains one of<br />

the oldest continuously operating markets in<br />

the country.<br />

Outside the city, foodies enjoy meandering<br />

along the Olympic Culinary Loop, a tasty trail<br />

showing off the Olympic Peninsula’s diverse<br />

microclimates, coastal proximity and Native<br />

American heritage. In Wenatchee, the Stemilt<br />

Growers Retail Store lets visitors sample the<br />

bounty of one of the state’s premier apple, pear<br />

and cherry growers. In every season, events<br />

honor the state’s most celebrated products,<br />

ranging from the Hama Hama OysterRama, held<br />

each spring in Lilliwaup, to the Dungeness Crab<br />

& Seafood Festival, held each fall in Port Angeles.<br />


In downtown Seattle, restaurants like Urbane<br />

pride themselves on using local ingredients and<br />

purveyors. Since opening its doors, Urbane has<br />

counted Tonnemaker Farms of Royal City, just<br />

east of Ellensburg, as part of the family. It’s clear<br />

that chef Brian Pusztai couldn’t agree more<br />

with the eatery’s philosophy. “For me,” he said,<br />

“I’ve always felt sourcing locally is the right<br />

thing to do. You’re working with the flavors<br />

of the Pacific Northwest that haven’t had to<br />

travel far, meaning they are the freshest they<br />

can possibly be. I also take interest in knowing<br />

exactly where my food is coming from.”<br />

Pusztai loves working with local, fresh<br />

seafood, especially Penn Cove mussels and the<br />

Taylor Shellfish shigoku oysters. “My family<br />

and I often make the visit to Taylor Shellfish’s<br />

Chuckanut farm in Samish Bay, right outside<br />

of Bellingham,” he said. “I also really enjoy<br />

working with geoduck because it is such a<br />

unique ingredient to the Pacific Northwest<br />

that tastes delicious. Oh, and we can’t forget<br />

54 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


FROM TOP Planting time at Helsing<br />

Junction Farms. Tonnemaker Farms<br />

works with Urbane in Seattle. Mussels<br />

are a Washington specialty.<br />



Anna Salafsky and Susan Ujcic,<br />

who began Helsing Junction Farms<br />

in 1992, remain deeply committed<br />

to organic farming and their community.<br />

Located 20 miles south<br />

of Olympia in Rochester, on the<br />

Chehalis River, the farm sells most<br />

of its produce through a Community<br />

Supported Agriculture<br />

(CSA) program, but it also hosts<br />

weddings, an annual music festival<br />

and farm-to-table experiences in a<br />

lovely event space.<br />

The farm grows more than 150<br />

varieties of organic vegetables,<br />

fruit, flowers and herbs. “We’ve<br />

been farming together for over<br />

twenty-five years,” Ujcic said, “so<br />

we bring a lot of experience to the<br />

table, but we also love trying new<br />

things. We focus on the health of<br />

our soil, so everything we grow<br />

tastes and looks its best.”<br />

Both have strong design<br />

backgrounds and a deep love of<br />

food—once they began farming,<br />

they were hooked. “Working with<br />

the earth and feeding people is<br />

deeply rewarding; we really enjoy<br />

sharing the farm with our community,”<br />

Ujcic said.<br />



Todd Van Mersbergen’s family<br />

farms 200 acres north of<br />

Lynden, about 1 mile south of the<br />

Canadian border, where they’ve<br />

been working since the early<br />

1900s. “You could say I was born<br />

to farm,” Van Mersbergen, who<br />

has been directly involved for the<br />

last twenty years, said. “ I am the<br />

fourth generation to farm here<br />

in Lynden, and many generations<br />

before that were involved in<br />

agriculture in Holland. We started<br />

as dairy farmers and diversified<br />

into raspberries in 1995 and into<br />

blueberries in 2006. It’s great to<br />

be your own boss and really see<br />

the rewards from your planning<br />

and labor during harvest.”<br />

Today the Van Mersbergens<br />

farm about 100 acres each of red<br />

raspberries and blueberries. “The<br />

cool maritime climate and long<br />

days during the growing season<br />

make Whatcom County an ideal<br />

place to grow blueberries,” Van<br />

Mersbergen said. “Couple that<br />

with rich, well-drained soil, and it’s<br />

no wonder we can get the most<br />

tonnage per acre and highest<br />

sugar content in our berries.”<br />

“The best part about farming<br />

is taking my wife and kids out to<br />

the field and driving down the<br />

rows, being able to be outside<br />

with them and watch the plants<br />

go through their phases,” he said.<br />

“The farm is a great place to learn<br />

about life. That’s the other part<br />

I love—the seasonal nature of<br />

farming, and getting to work with<br />

the environment and the weather.<br />

No two days are ever the same.”<br />



Located just north of Pasco,<br />

this family farm has fantastic<br />

views of Juniper Dunes. The Larsens<br />

have been here since the early<br />

’60s, when they broke the ground<br />

out of sagebrush and bunchgrass,<br />

and the only roads were two-track<br />

trails used by sheepherders.<br />

Larsen’s family is one of the<br />

seventy remaining asparagus<br />

farmers in the state. “In ’85<br />

when we started with asparagus,<br />

there were 32,000 acres of it<br />

in the state, and now there are<br />

4,400 acres,” he said. He credits<br />

an abundance of good quality<br />

water, rich soils and changing<br />

seasons for making Washington<br />

“the premier state for growing<br />

asparagus.” He praises the region’s<br />

rich volcanic soils and the fact<br />

that asparagus here go dormant<br />

in the winter, allowing nutrients<br />

and carbohydrates to move to the<br />

crowns (roots) for sweet crops<br />

the following year.<br />

The most rewarding part of<br />

his job? “Seeing the success and<br />

breaking some of the traditional<br />

ways of growing asparagus,”<br />

Larsen said. “Also, seeing people<br />

come back year after year to buy<br />

our crops and saying, ‘We have<br />

tried other asparagus and none<br />

compare to the sweetness and<br />

quality of yours.’”<br />

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 55

cooking with<br />

washington's<br />

best foods<br />



Kurt Beecher Dammeier<br />

SERVES 4-6 AS A SIDE<br />

1 cup uncooked<br />

wild rice<br />

3½ cups water<br />

1 teaspoon kosher<br />

salt, divided<br />

½ bunch fresh<br />

flat-leaf parsley,<br />

roughly chopped<br />

½ bunch fresh<br />

cilantro, roughly<br />

chopped<br />

In a fine-mesh strainer, rinse rice under cold water. Combine rice, ½ teaspoon<br />

salt and the water in a medium or large saucepan. Over medium-high heat, bring<br />

rice to a boil. Stir, reduce heat to low, cover with a tight-fitting lid and simmer<br />

for 30 to 50 minutes. The grains will burst and show a white interior when done.<br />

Fluff the rice with a fork and transfer to a container. Store in the refrigerator<br />

until completely cool.<br />

In a large mixing bowl, combine rice with remaining ingredients. Using a large<br />

spoon, mix until well combined. Add seasoning as needed.<br />



SERVES 4<br />


1 box pepper greens<br />

½ bunch lacinato<br />

kale, chiffonade<br />

1/4 bulb fennel,<br />

shaved<br />

Fennel stems, thinly<br />

sliced<br />

Fennel fronds,<br />

roughly chopped<br />

1 bunch green<br />

onions, sliced<br />

½ cup roughly<br />

chopped Mama<br />

Lil’s Peppers, plus<br />

2 teaspoons of oil<br />

1 cup coarsely grated<br />

Beecher’s Flagship<br />

Reserve cheese<br />

1 medium apple,<br />

cored and chopped<br />

½ apple, matchstick<br />

½ bunch parsley,<br />

roughly chopped<br />

½ bunch tarragon,<br />

finely chopped<br />


¼ cup rice wine<br />

vinegar<br />

½ teaspoon honey<br />

3 tablespoons apple<br />

cider vinegar<br />

¼ cup expeller-pressed<br />

safflower oil<br />

¼ teaspoon<br />

granulated garlic<br />

⅛ teaspoon black<br />

pepper<br />

Pinch of chili powder<br />

¾ cup extra-virgin<br />

olive oil (ideally<br />

first cold pressing<br />

or cold pressed)<br />

½ teaspoon Dijon<br />

mustard<br />

Salt and pepper,<br />

to taste<br />

Start with pepper greens and add each new vegetable as you chop it.<br />


Whisk all ingredients except oil until combined. Slowly whisk in oil to emulsify.<br />

If you want to take a foolproof shortcut, you can use an immersion blender<br />

to emulsify any dressing.<br />



Wesley Hood<br />


½ cup bonito broth,<br />

or dashi<br />

4 ounces geoduck,<br />

belly diced, syphon<br />

puréed<br />

4 ounces razor clam<br />

meat, belly diced,<br />

syphon puréed<br />

3/5 pound manila<br />

clams, juice<br />

reserved, meat<br />

cooled and<br />

chopped, shells<br />

discarded (reserve<br />

a few steamed<br />

clams for garnish)<br />

3 ounces bacon<br />

3 ounces onion<br />

1½ ounces celery<br />

5 ounces potato<br />

1 bay leaf<br />

1 sprig fresh thyme<br />

½ tablespoon garlic<br />

1¼ ounce rice flour<br />

2 ounces butter<br />

¼ teaspoon black<br />

pepper<br />

4½ cups heavy cream<br />

1 ounce butter<br />

1 tablespoon chopped<br />

parsley<br />


1¼ ounce rice flour<br />

2 ounces butter<br />


4½ cups heavy cream<br />

1 ounce butter<br />

1 tablespoon chopped<br />

Cross-slice the bacon thinly and add it to a thickbottomed<br />

pot. Cook on medium-high heat until<br />

browned, scraping up and stirring periodically with<br />

a wooden spoon. Meanwhile, dice onion and celery<br />

to ¼-inch pieces. Tie up bay leaf and thyme in a<br />

sachet, then quarter and thinly slice the potatoes<br />

into ¼-inch pieces.<br />

Once bacon is browned, add celery and onion and<br />

cook until vegetables are translucent. Add garlic and<br />

cook for another minute. Add bonito broth and all of<br />

the clam juice to deglaze, scraping up the fond with<br />

the wooden spoon. Reduce heat to a simmer. Add<br />

sachet of bay leaves and thyme to pot. Add black<br />

pepper, and simmer for 10 minutes.<br />

Add the clam purée, and potatoes and simmer<br />

for 7 minutes. When potatoes are almost tender it’s<br />

time to thicken it with the beurre manier. Remove<br />

herbs and discard.<br />


Mash together rice flour and warm butter by hand<br />

until a smooth paste is formed. If it is not smooth,<br />

you will have lumps of flour in your chowder.<br />

Remove 1 quart of the simmering liquid from the<br />

chowder and add it to the bowl with the butter and<br />

flour mixture. Whisk until smooth. Add this mixture<br />

back into the chowder pot.<br />

Increase the heat and stir constantly until<br />

thickened, approximately 185 degrees.<br />

Cool immediately.<br />


Shortly before serving, add cream to above base, then<br />

add reserved belly meat. Combine butter, parsley and<br />

clams, then add steamed clams on top as garnish.<br />

MORE ONLINE: Find a recipe for Ash-roasted Walla Walla Onions with Basil Ricotta, Cherries, Prosciutto & Mustard Greens at <strong>1889</strong>mag.com/locallove<br />

56 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong>

Travis Gillett<br />

Travis Gillett<br />

fresh foraged mushrooms. There are so many<br />

varieties that are right in our backyard, like<br />

morel and yellow chanterelles.”<br />

Not far from downtown, culinary<br />

aficionados enjoy a ten-block stroll in the Pike-<br />

Pine neighborhood between Melrose Market<br />

and Chophouse Row, two buzzing hubs for<br />

talented local growers, makers and collectors.<br />

Highlights among the markets’ many vendors<br />

include Rain Shadow’s famous bacon, cuts of<br />

beef, charcuterie and terrines, not to mention<br />

its selection of in-season produce (think<br />

blueberries, peaches and apples from the<br />

Yakima Valley). Visitors can also dine on the<br />

rooftop of Terra Plata, surrounded by organic<br />

gardens, or enjoy a pairing of fresh crab and<br />

pinot gris at Taylor Shellfish.<br />

“Not only do we celebrate local bounty—<br />

everything from hand-foraged mushrooms<br />

and fiddlehead ferns at Sitka & Spruce (the<br />

menu changes daily to reflect only whatever<br />

is in season) to the abundance of crab and<br />

shellfish, often caught that day, straight from<br />

Taylor Shellfish Farms in the waters of Puget<br />

Sound,” Melrose Market and Chophouse Row<br />

owner Liz Dunn said. “But in some cases, over<br />

its more than ten years, Melrose Market has<br />

made certain local foods famous.” Among these<br />

items—the Plane Bread and hand-churned<br />

butter that have anchored Sitka’s menu from<br />

the get-go and the handcrafted cheeses from<br />

Kurt Timmermeister’s cows on Vashon Island<br />

and Richard and Louise Yarmuth’s goats<br />

in Darlington.<br />


When it comes to the benefits of living here,<br />

there seems to be a consensus—amazing food<br />

that’s inextricably linked to the landscape and<br />

culture. “Being so close to so many amazing<br />

products in the Pacific Northwest, from the<br />

produce to the beer and wine,” Pusztai said of<br />

why he lives here. “The summers are amazing,<br />

and I love to get out in the sun while boating,<br />

crabbing or swimming in Lake Washington. “<br />

Plus, customers are looking for a place they<br />

can call home, and Washington’s farmers,<br />

ranchers, chefs and others are providing that.<br />

“There’s more latent demand than ever for<br />

locally sourced, hand-picked product. And<br />

I mean handpicked in both senses—sourced<br />

directly from the fields, forests and waters of<br />

the Northwest, and also hand-curated by our<br />

vendors,” Dunn said. “Here’s why it matters to<br />

customers: In an increasingly digitized, onlinedriven<br />

world, people are hungrier than ever for<br />

a sense of place.”<br />


FROM LEFT Chophouse<br />

Row and Melrose Market<br />

offer local food to visitors.<br />

Rain Shadow meats are<br />

among the markets’<br />

delicacies.<br />

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 57

Fermenting<br />

Wilderness<br />


written by Mike Allen<br />

photography by James Harnois<br />

58 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong>

An E9 Brewery employee pulls a sample<br />

for barrel blending for future fruit beers.<br />

T<br />


away wild beer for free. The biology<br />

major turned brewer was working at<br />

Tacoma’s Engine House No. 9 with head<br />

brewer Doug Tiede. The pair captured<br />

wild yeast from a friend’s Tacoma-area<br />

backyard, and used the resulting culture<br />

to brew batches of funky, tart ales in<br />

the Flanders tradition, aging them in<br />

5-gallon oak barrels. There was so little<br />

interest at the time that the wild beers<br />

never made it to the tap list. Instead, the<br />

pair bottled them up and drank them or<br />

gave them to friends. But Johns kept at<br />

it, harvesting another yeast strain from<br />

inside the brewery and growing that<br />

into another house culture.<br />

When Tiede left the company in<br />

2009 and new ownership took over,<br />

Johns presented them his wild brews<br />

and was rebuffed. So he plugged<br />

away at the brewery’s catalog of<br />

conventionally fermented beers until<br />

X Group Restaurants, Tacoma-based<br />

restaurateurs, took over Engine House<br />

No. 9 in 2011 and rebranded the brewery<br />

as E9.<br />

“They were more wine guys,”<br />

Johns said of X Group. “I was able to<br />

present them with five beers that were<br />

completely finished.”<br />

The persistence paid off, and the time<br />

was finally right. “They said, ‘If this is<br />

<strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 59

what you want to do, then let’s do it,’”<br />

Johns said. Now they have 100 oak<br />

barrels aging all the time, and plan to<br />

bring in 150 more.<br />

There’s a microscopic wilderness<br />

all around us, floating on air currents,<br />

teeming on fruit and flowers, leaves<br />

and even bark. Apart from the visible<br />

“bloom” of yeast on grapes and<br />

blueberries, it’s a wilderness most of us<br />

will never experience in any meaningful<br />

detail. But in wild fermentations, we can<br />

taste it. Each strain of yeast or bacteria,<br />

even of the same species, produces its<br />

own byproducts during fermentation.<br />

Yeast from Yakima apples will lend a<br />

different background flavor than that of<br />

Cascades rose hips. Microbes harvested<br />

from the air just outside of Tacoma<br />

lend peach notes to E9 brews, while<br />

those from inside the brewery are more<br />

cherry pie.<br />

Johns was among the first of a<br />

cadre of Washington brewers to<br />

go beyond the catalogs of the yeast<br />

laboratory and harvest distinctly<br />

Northwestern microbes from which to<br />

craft distinctively Northwestern beers.<br />

While American wild brewers took<br />

their first cues from the traditional<br />

brewers of Belgium, northern France<br />

and Germany, who have long relied<br />

on ambient yeast to ferment their tart,<br />

funky and refreshing beers, it’s far from<br />

where they stopped.<br />

One purist definition of “wild beer” is<br />

“spontaneously fermented.” This means<br />

the wort is cooled slowly in an open<br />

environment, in a wide, open metal<br />

tray called a “coolship,” an anglicization<br />

of the Flemish koelschip. As it cools,<br />

the hope is that airborne yeast and<br />

bacteria collect on the surface and make<br />

themselves at home in the nutrient-rich<br />

environment. This method produces<br />

beers that are definitely wild. But<br />

without the decades- or centuries-old<br />

breweries and equipment of Europe—<br />

which are already crawling with<br />

the “right” (and arguably somewhat<br />

domesticated) microbes—it’s also dicey.<br />

“Wild” here involves a few different<br />

processes, from coolship inoculation, to<br />

wild harvesting, to hybrid inoculations.<br />

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The exterior of the historic<br />

Engine House No. 9. The bottle-labeling machine at<br />

E9 Brewery. E9 head brewer Shane Johns.<br />

The Northwest has long had the right stuff for crafting fermented beverages.<br />

Even the weather helps contribute to successful fermentations,<br />

which is especially important for the long cooling and<br />

extended aging often required for wild brews. All these factors<br />

brought Ron Extract and Amber Watts from Austin, Texas, to<br />

Burlington, Washington.<br />

“When we started thinking about places, we thought about<br />

where everything exists for making beer,” Watts said. In<br />

addition to the “very unique, beautiful malt,” hops, and fruit,<br />

the Skagit Valley climate is “perfect for minimal temperature intervention<br />

for fermentation,” she said.<br />

Watts and Extract became well-known for expanding the milieu of<br />

artisan beer at Austin’s renowned Jester King brewery. Progressing from<br />

Jester King’s tradition of incorporating plenty of fruit and herbs into the<br />

mix, their fledgling Garden Path Fermentation will produce not only<br />

beer, but mead, fruit wine and cider—a veritable universe of alcoholic<br />

fermentation. Also, unlike most wild brews, Garden Path’s beers won’t<br />

necessarily be sour. Most of them will be what might be described as<br />

“clean drinking.”<br />

“We’re actually exploring the softer side of fermentation,” Extract said.<br />

“If people come up to us at a festival and expect a beer that’s going to<br />

dissolve the enamel off their teeth, they’re not going to find that.”<br />

There’s a misconception that “wild” is synonymous with “sour,” and<br />

indeed the guezes and lambics of Flanders are usually quite sour, so the<br />

terms are sometimes used interchangeably. But a brew can be quickly<br />

soured with fruit juice, or by adding commercial preparations of lactic<br />

60 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

Yeast is transferred to a foudre for fermentation<br />

at Garden Path Fermentation in Burlington.

acid-producing bacteria. Conversely,<br />

beer brewed with wild microbes needn’t<br />

necessarily be sour.<br />

Different microorganisms prefer<br />

different environments, Garden Path’s<br />

head brewer Jason Hansen explained.<br />

By providing the right environment<br />

for the organisms the brewer wants to<br />

encourage, while discouraging others,<br />

he can achieve a desired result with a<br />

mixed bag of bugs.<br />

For example, Hansen said, “If we want<br />

to select for saccharomyces (the cleanfermenting<br />

genus of domesticated<br />

yeast), we might use more hops. If we<br />

want more brettanomyces (the wild<br />

yeast genus that produces funky aromas<br />

and tartness), we’ll use less.”<br />

Garden Path is creating coolshipinoculated<br />

beers, but they’ll also ferment<br />

with yeasts harvested from fruit, flowers<br />

and the air around the Skagit Valley. By<br />

inoculating small batches of wort, they<br />

can grow wild yeasts and bacteria up<br />

into cultures, sometimes called “yeast<br />

wrangling.” The rest is in the aging<br />

and blending of beers from different<br />

barrels—what Extract refers to as a<br />

“curating or editing process.”<br />

That curating process means some<br />

brews will never make it to the public,<br />

since they may never be “presentable.”<br />

It also means that brewing wild can be<br />

spontaneous in more than one way—<br />

the brewer regularly tastes and reacts<br />

to the state of the brew, rather than<br />

working on a specific and predictable<br />

timetable. For this reason, it’s hard to<br />

say precisely what will be on offer when<br />

the first beers come out of production,<br />

hopefully this fall.<br />

The other obstacle is that wild takes a<br />

while—up to three years in the case of<br />

some spontaneously fermented, barrelaged<br />

beers. While saccharomyces works<br />

quickly to digest sugar into alcohol, other<br />

microbes work slowly, and the beer<br />

takes time to “mature,” sometimes going<br />

through unpalatable stages to emerge as<br />

something more glorious. Meanwhile,<br />

brewers who haven’t been toiling away<br />

in an established brewery have to sell<br />

more quickly fermented beers, or find<br />

ways to shorten the timelines.<br />

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Garden Path Fermentation<br />

co-founders Ron Extract and Amber Watts. Extract<br />

harvests yeast from flowers. Yeast capture and<br />

fermentation experiments at Garden Path. Mead<br />

ferments in a barrel at the brewery.<br />

62 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

Dwinell<br />

Country Ales<br />

Open for less than a year, Dwinell<br />

Country Ales in Goldendale<br />

is pouring a lineup of<br />

quenching, slightly tart<br />

and funky brews, perfect<br />

for drinking under<br />

Goldendale’s famously clear<br />

desert skies. Cofounder and<br />

brewer Justin Leigh said<br />

Goldendale, an agricultural community<br />

of fewer than 3,500 residents, makes<br />

more sense for a country brewery than<br />

“under the train tracks,” in say, Chicago.<br />

Much of what’s now on tap has been<br />

fermented using the “wild” inoculants<br />

now offered in the catalogs of most<br />

major yeast labs, with a steady trickle<br />

of brews incorporating local fruits and<br />

their yeasts. Leigh takes an experimental<br />

approach to wild fermentation, finding<br />

ways to merge laboratory sophistication<br />

with hand-harvested yeasts from<br />

the countryside. For example, he<br />

and cofounder-wife Jocelyn Dwinell<br />

Leigh picked Yakima Valley apples,<br />

spontaneously fermented them into<br />

cider, and had the yeast analyzed and<br />

propagated by Gresham, Oregon’s<br />

Imperial Yeast. He’s incorporating<br />

these local wild yeasts and bacteria<br />

into shorter fermentations, adding<br />

complexity and soul to clean-drinking<br />

and accessible ales.<br />

In the brewery behind the airy,<br />

sunny taproom, an old dairy tank—his<br />

makeshift coolship—sits in the middle<br />

of the room as a wall of oak barrels sits<br />

aging various spontaneous and handharvested<br />

wild ales. These are the longterm<br />

projects, which will eventually be<br />

blended with one another or with local<br />

fruits and re-fermented. The beers on tap<br />

already taste like the place where they’re<br />

made and served, and with time spent<br />

living here, taking on the microscopic<br />

wilderness all around, they’ll become<br />

part of the landscape.<br />

<strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 63

FLOWER<br />

POWER<br />

photography by Katheryn Moran<br />

Among Washington’s bounty, flowers may sometimes<br />

be forgotten. Not so at Triple Wren Farms just north<br />

of Bellingham. Owners Steve and Sarah Pabody truly<br />

fell into flower farming after a friend asked them to<br />

look after his apple orchard. Today, they run a small<br />

cut-flower farm and florist and grow all kinds of<br />

vibrant, interesting flowers.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Owners Steve and Sarah Pabody stand with<br />

their kids—Chloe Wren, 7, and Trey, 11—who also help out around the farm.<br />

First-year field crew member Caroline Arnhart trims larkspur.<br />

Arnhart checks on sweet peas in the Triple Wren greenhouse.<br />

Snapdragons are just one of the various flora grown at the farm. Triple<br />

Wren also offers seasonal u-pick blueberries and a pumpkin patch.<br />

In addition to growing flowers, the Pabodys do arrangements and<br />

consultations for weddings, offer an internship program and hold<br />

workshops to help teach and support other farmer-florists like themselves.<br />

66 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong>

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 67

FAR LEFT A field crew member<br />

trims sweet peas at Triple Wren<br />

Farms.<br />

TOP RIGHT Once trimmed,<br />

flowers are arranged into buckets.<br />

BOTTOM, FROM LEFT Triple<br />

Wren peonies. Sarah Pabody<br />

designs a custom bouquet. The<br />

finished arrangement.<br />

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 69


ADVENTURE 74<br />

LODGING 78<br />



pg. 74<br />

At Cherry Wood Bed, Breakfast & Barn, get<br />

up close and personal with the horses.

In Eastern Washington,<br />

Pullman is the place to be<br />

Ken Carper, kencarperphotos.com<br />

Ask for more<br />

Pullman Chamber and Visitor Center<br />

pullmanchamber.com<br />


travel spotlight<br />

Travel Spotlight<br />

On-Campus Creamery<br />

Washington State University’s<br />

ice cream shop and cheesemaking<br />

facility is a foodie’s dream<br />

written by Sheila G. Miller<br />


delicious secret—OK, maybe it’s not much of a<br />

secret, but it’s definitely delicious. Tucked away<br />

on campus is the Food Quality Building, which<br />

houses the WSU Creamery and its partner ice<br />

cream store, Ferdinand’s Ice Cream Shoppe.<br />

The ice cream shop opened in 1948 and serves<br />

more than a dozen flavors, including specialties<br />

like Apple Cup Crisp and Cougar Tracks.<br />

In addition to ice cream, students and faculty<br />

at the working creamery make Cougar Cheese,<br />

flavorful wheels that come in a can. The go-to is<br />

a white cheddar called Cougar Gold, but there<br />

are eight flavors for sale, ranging from smoky<br />

cheddar to hot pepper. The cheesemakers also<br />

create limited releases each year.<br />

The milk for the dairy creations come from<br />

the university’s own dairy farm. A group of<br />

students, the Cooperative University Dairy<br />

Students (CUDS, get it?), raise and manage the<br />

dairy cows.<br />

The Marc P. Bates Observation Room is open<br />

from 9:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. on weekdays. Visitors<br />

are likely to see students and faculty making<br />

Ferdinand’s ice cream and Cougar Cheese. The<br />

observation room also has videos to show the<br />

cheese and ice cream-making process at the<br />

WSU Creamery, just in case no one is working.<br />

Don’t want to leave it to chance? Call ahead to<br />

find the production schedule.<br />

If you have a group of twelve or more, you<br />

can reserve the room for a specific day and<br />

time, then enjoy a hosted visit, cheese curd<br />

samples and discounted ice cream.<br />

72 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong>

adventure<br />

Adventure<br />

Washington’s Fruit Basket<br />

Explore and taste wine by horse or by hayride<br />

written by Lauren Kramer<br />

74 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong>

adventure<br />

Cherry Wood BB&B offers<br />

wine tasting by horseback.<br />

ON A RECENT EVENING in Zillah, a small town 20<br />

miles southeast of Yakima, I sat outside absorbing<br />

the quiet serenity of a valley bathed in soft light.<br />

Before me orchards filled with neat rows of<br />

cherry, apple and peach trees stretched for miles,<br />

their lush fruit ripening as one hot day rolled into<br />

the next. Mount Adams and Mount Rainier were<br />

still heavily snowcapped, their peaks like ghosts<br />

in the far-off distance. Behind me, the door of my<br />

teepee flapped in the breeze, revealing a king bed<br />

decked in white linens, a sanctuary for the night<br />

and a place where I would wake to the sounds of<br />

horses grazing in the early morning.<br />

The Cherry Wood Bed, Breakfast & Barn, run by<br />

Pepper Fewel on her family’s working fruit farm, was<br />

my home for the night. A woman with a deep love of<br />

horses, Fewel runs the B, B & B to finance the care of<br />

twenty-six horses she’s rescued from the feedlot. She<br />

brings them to Cherry Wood to live out their final<br />

years grazing peacefully in her meadows and escorting<br />

guests on horseback wine-tasting tours through the<br />

orchards. Under her stewardship they receive love from<br />

both Fewel and her daughter, Tiffany, a Feldenkrais<br />

practitioner whose healing touch reduces both<br />

equestrian and human pain.<br />

On my first visit to Cherry Wood several years<br />

back, I ventured out on a horseback ride with Tiffany,<br />

stopping to admire the fruit hanging heavily from the<br />

tree boughs in the heat of summer. This time, I board<br />

Fewel’s alternative mode of transportation, a “cowboy<br />

limo” composed of a Jeep pulling a hay-filled wagon.<br />

Guests sit on cow hides in the wagon as they’re pulled<br />

through the orchards, stopping to sample wine at a<br />

handful of Zillah’s many wineries.<br />

Fewel launched the cowboy limo after a group of<br />

guests from the East Coast found themselves physically<br />

unable to get astride the horses. “They so wanted to<br />

tour through the orchards,” she recalled. “I had to find<br />

another way for them to get there. I tell my guests<br />

they’re welcome to board the limo—as long as they can<br />

stay on the wagon!”<br />

Staying on the wagon can be tougher than it sounds<br />

when you’re tasting wine. We drove slowly through the<br />

orchards, sampling cherries from trees whose fruit is<br />

just weeks away from being picked. Over the<br />

course of three hours we visited four wineries<br />

for tastings, and while all produced different<br />

wines, the experiences had one thing in<br />

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 75

adventure<br />


WHERE TO EAT: Don’t<br />

miss the incredible pizzas at<br />

Hoptown Wood Fired Pizza<br />

(hoptownpizza.com; 2560<br />

Donald Wapato Rd., Donald).<br />

Provisions Restaurant &<br />

Market (provisionsyakima.<br />

com; 2710 Terrace Heights Dr.<br />

Yakima) is a locavore’s haven<br />

with healthy comfort fare<br />

served in a classy setting.<br />

WHERE TO SLEEP: Cherry<br />

Wood Bed, Breakfast & Barn<br />

delivers a soft adventure<br />

with no sacrifice to comfort,<br />

luxury or fine breakfast<br />

foods. Rates start at $185<br />

per person per night.<br />

(cherrywoodbbandb.com)<br />

WHAT TO DO: You’ll never<br />

look at fruit the same way<br />

once you’ve toured the<br />

orchards where it’s grown<br />

and seen it ripening on the<br />

tree. Take a horseback tour<br />

of the vineyards or hop on<br />

the cowboy limo if riding<br />

is not your forte. Both<br />

deliver a mellow, enjoyable,<br />

safe tour of the wineries.<br />

For reservations visit<br />

cherrywoodbbandb.com.<br />

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP For a horse-free<br />

adventure, try the Cowboy Limo. Cherry Wood<br />

has rescue horses. Two Mountain Winery is<br />

one of the stops on the tour.<br />

Lauren Kramer<br />

common—each visit was filled with a personal touch. We<br />

met owners and winemakers eager to chat and share their<br />

stories, describing how their winery came to be and what it<br />

means to them.<br />

At Two Mountain Winery, Patrick and Matthew Rawn toil<br />

on farmland first planted by their grandfather in 1951. “With<br />

five generations of Yakima Valley farming pulsing through<br />

our veins, we are predisposed to have dirty fingernails and an<br />

inherent love of the land,” Patrick said. “We live, breathe and<br />

drink our work.” Today one brother grows grapes on 26 acres<br />

of vineyards while the other makes estate wine sold across<br />

nineteen states.<br />

Back on the limo, we rode the dusty back roads to Cultura,<br />

a winery owned and operated by Fewel’s son and daughterin-law,<br />

Tad and Sarah. The couple purchased their first fruit<br />

in 2005 and replanted a section of family farmland with<br />

zinfandel and cabernet franc before opening the tasting<br />

room in 2008. “We’re still learning,” he said.<br />

At Dineen Family Vineyards, we stopped to admire<br />

immaculately groomed gardens and the rows of healthy<br />

vineyards outside the tasting room. “We make just 600 cases<br />

of wine a year, so we’re mostly grape sellers,” spokesman<br />

David Rodriguez said as he walked us through the vineyards.<br />

One of the interesting details at the vineyard is the falconer<br />

it has hired, whose raptors control the populations of birds<br />

and sage rats that feed on the grapes. It’s also a sacred place<br />

for community gatherings. Saturdays in summer, local chef<br />

Chris Guerra helms the outdoor pizza oven steps from the<br />

Dineen tasting room, and valley locals flock to the vineyard<br />

for picnics on the lush lawns.<br />

That sense of warmth, family connection and close-knit<br />

community is a common thread wherever we ventured in the<br />

Yakima Valley. Visitors come to this arid corner, the veritable<br />

fruit basket of Washington, to relish the great wines, but<br />

leave touched by the stories, the lineage and the warm heart<br />

that beats a steady welcome.<br />

76 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong>

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No Cleaning Fees<br />

OCEAN CREST RESORT • 360-276-4465<br />

4651 SR 109 Moclips, WA 98562<br />

OceanCrestResort • info@OceanCrestResort.com<br />


photo by Mitchel Osborne<br />



Photos: Mayflower Park Hotel<br />

Lodging<br />

Mayflower Park Hotel<br />

written by Cara Strickland<br />

THE YEAR 2017 marked ninety years of continuous operation for<br />

this downtown Seattle gem. Though the hotel has been refurbished<br />

over the years, you’ll still feel like you’re stepping into the past,<br />

and the luxurious past at that. Through the doors, you’ll begin to<br />

experience an oasis of calm right in the heart of the city.<br />

405 OLIVE WAY<br />


mayflowerpark.com<br />

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT The lobby features<br />

Queen Anne-style furniture. Rooms have been<br />

refurbished. Oliver’s is the perfect spot for a cocktail.<br />


The 160 guest rooms come in a variety of<br />

options, from a classic guest room featuring<br />

signature extra-deep bathtubs, original 1927<br />

tiled bathroom floors and elegant Queen<br />

Anne-style furniture, to well-appointed suites<br />

for those who might be celebrating, need<br />

room for a private business meeting, or just<br />

want a panoramic view.<br />

DINING<br />

If you’re staying on a Wednesday, be sure<br />

to catch the complimentary wine reception<br />

starting at 4:30 p.m. Pop into Oliver’s Lounge<br />

for light bites, lunch and cocktails seven<br />

days a week from 11:30 a.m. to 2 a.m., with<br />

complimentary appetizers served during happy<br />

hour, 4:30 p.m. to 6 p.m. every day but Sunday.<br />

Be sure to ask about the history of the large<br />

windows—a response to new laws in the 1970s<br />

that allowed bars to operate in public view,<br />

rather than closed off from natural light and<br />

passersby. Those windows, along with their<br />

cocktails, made Oliver’s a landmark in the city.<br />

For breakfast and dinner, check out Andaluca,<br />

serving Northwest food inspired by the flavors<br />

of the Mediterranean. Don’t want to leave<br />

your robe? Room service is available twentyfour<br />

hours a day.<br />

EVENTS<br />

There’s nothing like a historic backdrop for<br />

a special occasion, and the Mayflower Park<br />

delivers on one-of-a-kind wedding photos in<br />

a central location. Make your next meeting a<br />

little more aesthetically pleasing with meeting<br />

spaces for a variety of group sizes.<br />

78 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong>

trip planner<br />

Leavenworth is the Washington version of Bavaria.<br />

Icicle TV<br />

80 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong>

trip planner<br />

Welcome to Leavenworth<br />

Washington’s quirky Bavarian mountain town<br />

written by Corinne Whiting<br />

CRAVING A EUROPEAN FIX (with a twist) in the Pacific Northwest? Leave your passport at home<br />

and journey to Leavenworth, where Washington’s version of Bavaria bustles with quirky charm in a<br />

stunning mountain setting. From Seattle, travel two and a half hours east over the pass to this popular<br />

destination—one whose draws extend far beyond bratwursts and beer. Outdoor enthusiasts flock to this<br />

region for the endless recreation options that range from fishing and rafting on the Wenatchee River<br />

that flows through town, to mountain biking, hiking, rock climbing and other adrenaline-fueled pastimes.<br />

Lori Vandenbrink, director of sales and marketing at<br />

Sleeping Lady Resort, has lived here with her family for<br />

fourteen years. “I love most everything about Leavenworth,<br />

but if I had to narrow it to a couple of things it would be<br />

the community, being surrounded by mountains and the<br />

access to recreation,” she said. She marvels at the lengths<br />

residents will go to attain their desired lifestyle here—<br />

working multiple jobs, sometimes below their ability level,<br />

or commuting to Seattle a couple days a week, solely to call<br />

this beautiful place home.<br />

Let it be known—this carefully planned tourist<br />

destination, tucked at the base of Washington’s north<br />

central Cascade Mountains, has not always boasted<br />

Bavarian-alpine architecture or annual Maifest and<br />

Oktoberfest celebrations. Initially, native Yakama, Chinook<br />

and Wenatchi tribes lived here, enjoying the beauty and<br />

bounty of the land as they hunted for deer and elk and<br />

fished for salmon in Icicle Creek.<br />

In 1890, however, Icicle Flats was born as settlers<br />

descended upon the area in search of promised gold, timber<br />

and furs. Near the turn of the century, the arrival of a rail<br />

line led to booming business for the logging and sawmill<br />

industries. When the railroad rerouted and left the region,<br />

though, Leavenworth nearly became a ghost town, teetering<br />

on the brink of extinction. To lure visitors back in the early<br />

1960s, town leaders gave the town a Bavarian facelift.<br />

“I know it’s probably hard to believe, but after you live<br />

here for a while, the Bavarian architecture fades into the<br />

backdrop of the surrounding mountains and it looks like it’s<br />

always been there,” Vandenbrink said. “Many locals enjoy<br />

and partake in the theme, painting their home or business<br />

with murals, dressing in Trachten for work or festivals<br />

and participating in traditional customs such as Edelweiss<br />

Tanzgruppe, the local Bavarian folk dance group.”<br />

Day<br />


Crank up the radio and climb into the mountains. If<br />

you’re driving over Stevens Pass, shortly after you crest<br />

the summit, be on the lookout for a display of color on<br />

the north side of Highway 2 between Lichtenburg and<br />

Smithbrook. Once arriving in Leavenworth, enjoy dinner<br />

at Watershed Café, where the menu features Hama Hama<br />

oysters, or Mana, a cozy yellow house in which diners enjoy<br />

a “three-hour, eight-course journey through the senses.”<br />

Afterward, savor a good night of sleep at Sleeping Lady (or<br />

up the Icicle, if a Thermarest is more your style).<br />

Located at the base of the Icicle canyon and<br />

on the peaceful banks of Icicle Creek, Sleeping<br />

Lady’s dreamy mountain resort features<br />

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 81

trip planner<br />

Icicle TV<br />

Dzhan Wiley<br />

Dzhan Wiley<br />

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Hiking abounds near Icicle Creek. The Bavarian theme pervades at Icicle Brewing. Get your fix of beers and brats at München Haus.<br />

Kingfisher Restaurant & Wine Bar, a renowned performance<br />

center and a self-guided art walk, showing off the magnificent<br />

permanent installation by legendary glass artist Dale Chihuly.<br />

Long known for its sustainable and ecologically minded<br />

practices, this Certified B corporation resort, also offers enticing<br />

amenities like an on-site spa and heated pool.<br />

Its mission which incorporates nature, art, recreation and<br />

healthful dining is so special,” Vandenbrink said. Harriet<br />

Bullitt, a multitalented entrepreneur and longtime supporter<br />

of the arts and environmental conservation in the Pacific<br />

Northwest, started the Sleeping Lady. “I want people to leave<br />

here and feel as though they can change their corner of the<br />

world,” she once said.<br />

Day<br />


Those staying at Sleeping Lady start the morning with a<br />

vibrant, seasonal breakfast spread included in their package.<br />

Otherwise, mosey into town for espresso with a view at<br />

Argonaut—try the Namaste Latte with turmeric and honey<br />

accompanied by the tiny café’s granola bars or seasonal<br />

toasts. Afterward, locals suggest hiking up Icicle Ridge or out<br />

Red Bridge, the two main town trails, or hitting the Stuart<br />

or Colchuck trails. Other options include arranging a river<br />

adventure with Osprey Rafting or taking a fat bike onto the<br />

Leavenworth Winter Sports Club trails.<br />

After getting out into nature, relish an après beverage and<br />

snack at Blewett Brewing, Boudreaux Cellars, 37 Cellars, Blue<br />

Spirits Distilling or Icicle Brewing Company. At Icicle, a friendly<br />

twenty-five-barrel brewhouse, waitstaff serve giant pretzels<br />

dipped in Beecher’s cheese and colorful salads topped with<br />

manchego, Applegate turkey and Chukar cherries. The venue<br />

draws loyal fans thanks to a bustling scene, live music sessions<br />

and seasonally rotated beers made with Icicle Creek water,<br />

which flows into the Wenatchee River less than a mile from<br />

the venue. Get a sampler to try an array of brews ranging from<br />

lagers to porters and IPAs.<br />

If you still have steam for an afternoon adventure, consider<br />

mountain biking up at Ski Hill, riding the new Up Trail and<br />

then down either Fruend or Rosy Boa. On scorching days, cool<br />

off with a dip in the Wenatchee River. “The best thing about<br />

Leavenworth is the incredible mountain setting and endless<br />

recreational opportunities at its doorstep,” Vandenbrink said.<br />

For a casual dinner, order a brat at festive München Haus,<br />

or change things up entirely with a Mexican feast at South,<br />

where grilled street corn, sweet potato enchiladas, steak tacos<br />

and “mangorita” cocktails prove a well-deserved reward after<br />

an active day. Sleeping Lady guests take advantage of dinner at<br />

Kingfisher Restaurant, included in their package—here, chefs<br />

create gourmet meals from the freshest local ingredients, many<br />

from the resort’s own 2-acre organic garden.<br />

82 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong>

trip planner<br />

Leavenworth Chamber of Commerce<br />


EAT<br />

Mana<br />

manamountain.com<br />

Watershed Café<br />

yodelinrestaurantgroup.com<br />

Kingfisher Restaurant & Wine Bar<br />

sleepinglady.com/kingfisherrestaurant-wine-bar.php<br />

South<br />

southrestaurants.com<br />

STAY<br />

Sleeping Lady<br />

Mountain Resort<br />

sleepinglady.com<br />

LOGE<br />

logecamps.com/leavenworth-wa<br />

Posthotel<br />

posthotelleavenworth.com<br />

PLAY<br />

Leavenworth Community<br />

Farmers Market<br />

leavenworthfarmersmarket.org<br />

Day<br />


Oktoberfest runs on the weekends in October, and that includes parades.<br />

Icicle Brewing Company<br />

iciclebrewing.com/home<br />

Blewett Brewing Company<br />

blewettbrew.com<br />

Oktoberfest<br />

leavenworthoktoberfest.com<br />

If you happen to be in town during<br />

Oktoberfest (October 5-6, 12-13, and 19-<br />

20), head to the gathering’s four venues to<br />

eat, drink and be merry. A Keg Tapping<br />

Ceremony led by the town’s mayor happens<br />

at 1 p.m. on Saturdays, and throughout<br />

the fest, enjoy live tunes by Musikkapelle<br />

Leavenworth and other groups from the<br />

U.S., Canada and Germany. (Children under<br />

12 enter for free, as do military members<br />

with I.D. Minors, allowed until 9 p.m., will<br />

enjoy the designated Kinderplatz area.)<br />

Vandenbrink offered some insider tips<br />

for negotiating Oktoberfest crowds, like<br />

walking or taking a shuttle from one’s hotel.<br />

(Sleeping Lady offers a complimentary<br />

shuttle for guests on Saturdays.) Other tips—<br />

go early if you seek a mellow experience,<br />

know that Friday is cheaper than Saturday,<br />

and sit at Icicle Brewing Company, Sulla<br />

Vita or the Goose Ridge tasting room for<br />

the people watching.<br />

In general, cycling is a good way to get<br />

around in high season. “The trickiest part of<br />

living in Leavenworth is navigating around<br />

town during peak periods,” Vandenbrink<br />

said. “In the spring and summer, I just jump<br />

on my bike, so sitting in traffic or parking<br />

aren’t an issue.”<br />

After checking out the festival revelry,<br />

pop into stores like Posy Handpicked<br />

Goods, where the owner raves about her<br />

location along a “row of small-production<br />

companies that have a lot of soul and speak<br />

their own vibe.” This woman-owned shop<br />

supports small businesses mostly from the<br />

Pacific Northwest. Next door, The Hunter’s<br />

Wife serves healthful takeaway fuel, ideal<br />

for commencing your journey home.<br />

(Think plant-powered meals and refreshing<br />

smoothies with names such as “Mystic<br />

Matcha.”)<br />

On the drive back to Seattle, treat yourself<br />

to a coffee pit stop at Little Red Shed, about<br />

halfway between Leavenworth and the pass.<br />

Or—as a nod to your Americana road trip—<br />

tuck into a burger and fries, served out of<br />

the 59er Diner food truck, as memories of<br />

your blissful Bavarian getaway fade in the<br />

rearview mirror.<br />

Leavenworth-area trails<br />

leavenworth.org/trails<br />

Arlberg Sports Haus<br />

arlbergsports.com<br />

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 83

northwest destination<br />

California Redwoods<br />

History and therapy among the giants<br />

written by Kevin Max<br />

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Driving through the trees<br />

elicits a big “wow.” Battery Point Lighthouse dates to<br />

1856. Guinness enjoys the trails through the Redwoods.<br />

THE CALIFORNIA REDWOODS are tree history writ<br />

large. The first time you drive through the giant sequoias<br />

and walk beneath them brings, at first, a silent shock<br />

that recedes to awe—being humbled in the presence of<br />

something extraordinary.<br />

The exclamation “Wow!” must have been uttered here first,<br />

summoned from pure reaction without diction. The sheer size<br />

of a Redwood—wow! The 16-foot trunk is wider than my car.<br />

This one is twice the width of my car. Getting out of the car, the<br />

next dimension unfolds—wow! This tree is 300 hundred feet<br />

tall and as thick at the top as at the bottom.<br />

The Redwoods are 206 square miles of massive stakes driven<br />

into the forest floor as a history marker of America. The oldest,<br />

at 700 years old, were there when Karuk, Yurok, Hupa and<br />

Tolowa tribesmen hunted among them. They were there when<br />

Spaniards sailed in, bringing religion and disease, as the number<br />

of humans in their shadows were culled by 90 percent. They<br />

were there at the arrival of people with paler faces after the<br />

Mexican-American War and the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo,<br />

then the passage of horses and carts carrying gold-miner pans<br />

and broken dreams on the unwitting march to manifest destiny.<br />

Trees store sugar, cellulose and carbon, even environmental<br />

data. Imagine if they could play back memories.<br />

Then there’s me, standing in awe of it all. Just be in the<br />

Redwoods, I tell myself, and you, too, will be part of the historic<br />

memory, another atom cast in carbon and stacking up through<br />

the canopy like a natural Tower of Babel.<br />

As we drove south from Oregon, we stopped on a whim in<br />

Cave Junction. Good things happen here. Cave Junction is home<br />

to Taylor’s Sausage, a fifth-generation craft salumi. The deli’s<br />

walls are made of carnivore dreams—refrigeration cases filled<br />

with packages of beer sausage, bockwurst and boudin blanc.<br />

We grabbed a pack of jalepeño sausages and Taylor’s version of<br />

English bangers, hoping to impress a British friend at dinner in<br />

84 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong>

northwest destination<br />


EAT<br />

Hiouchi Cafe, Crescent City<br />

hiouchicafe.com<br />

Taylor’s Sausage, Cave<br />

Junction<br />

taylorssausage.com<br />

SeaQuake Brewing,<br />

Crescent City<br />

seaquakebrewing.com<br />

STAY<br />

Jedediah Smith State Park<br />

parks.ca.gov<br />

Redwoods RV Resort<br />

redwoodsrv.com<br />

PLAY<br />

Hiking in the Redwoods<br />

nps.gov/redw/planyourvisit/<br />

hiking.htm<br />

Take a guided kayak tour<br />

on the Smith River<br />

redwoodrides.com<br />

Scenic drives through<br />

the parks<br />

parks.ca.gov<br />

a couple of nights. Across the deli and on a stage surrounded<br />

by dining tables was a two-person music act. They crooned<br />

“Sweet Melissa” to a hopping scene on a Thursday night.<br />

Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park was full, so I reserved<br />

a spot at Redwoods RV Resort, a surprisingly quiet camp<br />

outside Crescent City and along the Redwood Highway, a<br />

scenic byway. We honored our Taylor sausage with one of the<br />

best comfort camp meals—Pigs in Space, grilled sausage cut to<br />

bite size then folded into mac’n’cheese. We drank an IPA that<br />

brought tropical flavor to the cool Northern California night.<br />

After the dimensional daze of the size, scale and age of the<br />

Redwoods waned, we woke up and put on our trail running<br />

shoes for forest therapy, a psychological designation just<br />

now gaining foothold. Hiouchi Trail wound underfoot, with<br />

glimpses of the Smith River. This out-and-back with an<br />

additional leg on Howland Hill Road accounted for more than<br />

6 miles, and an hour of mind-clearing therapy.<br />

Part of our Redwoods weekend retreat involved a breakfast<br />

stop at the Hiouchi Cafe just a couple of miles back up the<br />

Redwoods Highway, in a little red wood building. Serving its<br />

customers since 1931, the town’s history was plated alongside<br />

pancakes and bacon.<br />

In the Redwoods is Crescent City, a hidden gem on the<br />

California coast. We’re suckers for lighthouses and Crescent<br />

City has the Battery Point Lighthouse, open and walkable<br />

during low tides. Dating to 1856, the Fresnel-lit lighthouse<br />

was among California’s first.<br />

At the terra firma end of the lighthouse pier is SeaQuake<br />

Brewing, a charming little brewery with a killer 9.2 Burger<br />

with homemade bacon jam and Wicked Aunt Tammy double<br />

IPA, brewed with water from the Smith River.<br />

From Crescent City, we headed back into the Redwoods<br />

with a few scenic drives in front of us—and a mouthful<br />

of wows.<br />

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 85

<strong>1889</strong> MAPPED<br />

The points of interest below are culled from<br />

stories and events in this edition of <strong>1889</strong>.<br />

Oroville<br />

Forks<br />

Friday Harbor<br />

Port Angeles Coupeville<br />

Port<br />

Townsend<br />

Bellingham<br />

Mount Vernon<br />

Lakewood<br />

Marysville<br />

Everett<br />

Okanogan<br />

Republic<br />

Colville<br />

Newport<br />

Aberdeen<br />

South<br />

Bend<br />

Shelton<br />

Montesano<br />

Port Orchard<br />

Cathlamet<br />

Longview<br />

Olympia<br />

Chehalis<br />

Kelso<br />

Seattle<br />

Bellevue<br />

Renton<br />

Kent<br />

Federal Way<br />

Tacoma<br />

Ellensburg<br />

Yakima<br />

Waterville<br />

Wenatchee<br />

Ephrata<br />

Prosser<br />

Richland<br />

Pasco<br />

Wilbur<br />

Kennewick<br />

Ritzville<br />

Dayton<br />

Walla<br />

Walla<br />

Davenport<br />

Spokane<br />

Colfax<br />

Pomeroy<br />

Asotin<br />

Vancouver<br />

Stevenson<br />

Goldendale<br />

Live<br />

Think<br />

Explore<br />

15<br />

Olympia Harbor Days<br />

42<br />

WISErg<br />

72<br />

Washington State University Creamery<br />

16<br />

Boat Race Weekend<br />

44<br />

The Waterfront<br />

74<br />

Two Mountain Winery<br />

22<br />

Girl Meets Dirt<br />

46<br />

Xerces Society training<br />

78<br />

Mayflower Park<br />

23<br />

E.Z Tiger<br />

48<br />

Segal Ranch<br />

80<br />

Leavenworth<br />

34<br />

Arlberg Sports<br />

50<br />

Blue North<br />

84<br />

Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park<br />

86 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong>



American Lung Association’s LUNG FORCE, Breast Cancer Research Foundation, Canadian Cancer Society, Canadian Institutes of Health Research,<br />

Cancer Stem Cell Consortium, Farrah Fawcett Foundation, Genome Canada, Laura Ziskin Family Trust, LUNGevity Foundation, National Ovarian Cancer Coalition,<br />

Ontario Institute for Cancer Research, Ovarian Cancer Research Fund Alliance, Society for Immunotherapy of Cancer<br />



Until Next Time<br />

More Than Just Coffee<br />

written by Lauren Lofthus | illustrated by Allison Bye<br />

I REMEMBER SITTING in the stands at some kind of sporting event, cotton candy in one hand and<br />

my mom’s leftover coffee in the other. I would shove a clump of cotton candy in my mouth and wash<br />

it down with the coffee. This was my introduction to the bitter bean, and I’ve loved it ever since.<br />

Coffee is culture around Seattle. When you’re sitting<br />

in a coffee shop, you can often look out the window and<br />

see another coffee shop just down the street. I’m sure it<br />

seems weird to out-of-towners.<br />

Sure, our Washington clouds and cold mornings<br />

encourage the habit, but it goes deeper than that. If coffee<br />

was just about the warmth, we could drink tea. If coffee<br />

was about sugar, we could all get together for cupcakes.<br />

It would be hard to have a serious conversation while<br />

stuffing your face with cake, but that could be part of<br />

the fun.<br />

No, coffee is more than that.<br />

Coffee is about finding new places. Whether you<br />

want bright, fresh and airy, or cozy and dimly lit, you<br />

don’t have to look far to find a coffee shop that shares<br />

your aesthetic. Often they reflect something about the<br />

community around them. A Snohomish coffee shop<br />

might display an antique or two. An Everett coffee shop<br />

might have a more modern look. Coffee shops are a<br />

good starting point when you’re trying to get to know a<br />

city’s personality.<br />

Coffee is about family. My dad taught me how to make<br />

French press coffee. My mom taught me how to make<br />

drip. My brother taught me how to make pour-overs.<br />

Even though my husband doesn’t drink coffee, he still<br />

makes an amazing brew. We put a pot on for all of our<br />

family gatherings, and when we go on vacations we find<br />

new favorites together.<br />

Finally, coffee is about making new friends. Around<br />

here, you do coffee if you’re just starting to get to know<br />

somebody. To be fair, you also do coffee if you’ve been<br />

friends for thirty years. Meeting at a coffee shop is a great<br />

way to set up a casual interaction before you’re good<br />

enough friends for something dramatic—like dinner.<br />

So, as much as I enjoy a rich cup of coffee (maybe<br />

mixed with cinnamon and orange, maybe topped with<br />

whipped cream) coffee isn’t really about coffee for me.<br />

Coffee is about living life.<br />

88 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER <strong>2018</strong>

CAN YOU<br />


WHAT YOU<br />

READ?<br />

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MEDIA<br />

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confused about even the basic facts,<br />

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