KNITmuch | Issue 06


Here’s another issue you don’t want to miss! We’re talking about one of the more recent yarns Premier Toy Box, its characteristics, benefits and how perfect it is for knitting for children. We also look at non-allergenic sock yarns, and conversations about brioche knitting and knitting one stitch below using the luxurious Bella Cash. You’ll want to know about self striping yarns and examine what it’s like to knit with gradient striping yarn, Sweet Roll and Red Heart With Love Stripes and know the difference. Plenty of patterns to explore using Red Heart Soft and Evermore yarns.


much KNIT K, is to

Issue 6

* substituting yarns

* knitting the

stitch below

* Knitting gradients

with self-striping


* Brioche knitting

* i-cord edging

and cast on


* Shadow knitting

Knitting with



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2 KNITmuch | issue 6




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Premier Toy Box

Out of the Toy Box! Knitting with marled, self-striping chunky yarn

Bella Cash

3 things to consider when substituting yarns

What I learned about Brioche knitting

What happens when you knit in the stitch below?

Bella Cash yarn makes knit textures sing!

With Love Stripes

The NEW With Love Stripes yarn takes the ‘work’ out of ‘color work’

The qualities and benefits of knitting with Red Heart Soft yarn

Knitting the Two-Point Hat pattern with Soft yarn

Non-allergenic shawls and socks with Allegro

Knit a shawlette with non-allergenic yarn

How to knit on an i-cord edging

Using a knit i-cord as a cast-on technique

Premier Sweet Rolls

3 patterns to knit with self-striping worsted weight yarn

Shadow knitting with Sweet Roll Yarn

Knitting gradients with self-striping yarn

2 things I learned from my knitted swatch other than gauge

Evermore yarn

Knitting Snowy Arm Warmers pattern using Red Heart Evermore yarn

1 tip to add interest to a simple reversible knitted scarf


KNITmuch | issue 6


Download the NEW

KNITmuch App!

Includes the Premier issue and the latest

issue FREE for a limited time only!

4 KNITmuch | issue 6

editor's letter

The art of knitting never ceases to

amaze me. It seems to me there are

more techniques, stitches, finishings

tips, than there are days left to live. I'd

like to think I'll be able to give all of

them a whirl just to be able to say, 'Yes!

I tried that!' This issue has its wealth

of techniques that add dimension and

interest to your knitting. For example,

a Japanese technique called Shadow

Knitting adds dimension not to mention

an optical illusion that will have people

looking at your knitted item and wonder

how you did that.

We also look at Brioche Knitting,

seriously, I need to have a calmer

headspace before I ever tackle that

one. Don't get me wrong, I never say

anything is difficult, because it isn't, but

I do believe a new technique has to call

my attention and tug at my heart for

me to give it a whirl! And the headspace

must be there, and not filled with so

many deadlines and commitments;

someone give me a break!

Check it out, see how to use the i-cord

as a cast-on technique and finishing a

project with an i-cord edge.

Then there's the yarn. The luxuriously

soft like Bella Cash, and versatility of

Soft yarn. How about With Love Stripes?

I will take all the help I can get and take

the guess work out of knitting stripes

and just focus on the stitches! Yes


For those of you who are allergic to

wool, you'll love Charles Voth's articles

on the non-allergenic yarns. He talks

about how Allegro yarn is made to act

like it was wool, and he talks about how

the yarn was dyed.

Enjoy the issue, decide on a technique

and give it a whirl.


Share the love of knitting. Own the obsession.

follow me


Out of the Toy Box! Knitting with

marled, self-striping chunky yarn Charles Voth

This soft yarn comes in colorways reminiscent of favorite toys.

This is the Lincoln Logs colorway.

Do you remember that pale peachy color of the original Silly Putty?

You can see it in this colorway of Toy Box surrounded by other complementary

colors for some fun knits.

This is Toy Box in Hula Hoop! A playful blend of cool colors.

6 KNITmuch | issue 6

What have you knit with a self-striping bulky yarn

that has a barber pole twist to it? Anything for the

little ones in your life? This week we’ll be looking

at Toy Box, a new kid on the block. This soft yarn is

perfect for baby and toddler knits as it’s very soft,

and easy to take care of.

Toy Box has 9 self-striping colorways and 3 solid

colors. The palette is best suited to children’s wear,

but there are a few muted versions of familiar

colorways like a pink and green watermelon or a

sedate series of fall colors which would work for an

adult wardrobe as well.

The names of the colorways tickled my funny bone.

All the yarns are named after items you would find

in a toy box. Lincoln Logs and Silly Putty would

be my two favorite names and probably even my

preferred color combinations, but all the colorways

are beautiful.

Having the options of three solid colors is also

a great idea. Jump Rope (white), Kite (pink) and

Frisbee (blue) each coordinate with more than one

of the multi-colored skeins, and, depending on the

design, can frame or highlight the marled colors.

Each colorway contains at least six colors. As the

yarn has 2 plies of contrasting colors that are

spun together, the transitions between stripes is

gradual and creates a subtle tweedy effect. One

ply transitions between three or four of the colors

and the other ply transitions between the remaining

three or two colors respectively.

The yarn is 100% machine washable and dryerfriendly


I unspun the end of one skein to figure out the

yarn’s anatomy. There are two thicker plies that are

twisted around each other creating the barber pole

effect, but within each ply there is more going on.

There are long airy fibers with lots of built-in crimps.

Photos by Charles Voth

These curly fibers are quite long (mostly longer

than 2”) which means that the likelihood of pilling is

greatly reduced. There’s a lot of bounce and “air” left

in each of these two plies because the fluffy fibers

are spun around a core of two fine white threads.

The threads give the yarn the structure it needs

to behave well, and to keep the integrity of the

knit stitches, but they are surrounded by the softer

crimped fibers, which are what bring the colors and

color transitions into the yarn.

Let's look at how the yarn looks in a swatch or two to

get a better idea of how gradual the self-striping color

changes are, and the type of drape we can achieve.

The blues and grays in Toy Box Wiffle Ball, will have you knitting many

fun, airy and soft projects.

Crimped soft fibers give Toy Box loft, softness, and warmth and the 2

fine binder threads give the yarn integrity and sturdiness.

Using a swatch to practice weaving

in ends with a crochet hook

I know that those of us who do

swatch do so because we want

our finished items to knit to the

size and proportion that we’re

trying to achieve, and we don’t

want to frog back a huge number

of stitches. Some of us also

swatch to practice new-to-us

stitch patterns.

I also think that swatches are a

good tool for practicing finishing

techniques, which brings me to

the topic of weaving in ends with

a crochet hook because we’re

knitting with a chunky yarn called

Toy Box. We looked at the colors

and yarn structure of Toy Box.

You can see what it looks like

knit up.

This swatch of Toy Box Hula Hoop was knit on size US 11 [8mm].needles.

KNITmuch | issue 6


11 stitches per 4” is my gauge. I must have been relaxed when I made

this swatch on 11 US [8mm] needles

My row gauge is different than the one on the ball band, by a lot, but

that doesn’t phase me. The look of this self-striping barber pole yarn knit

up is stunning.

With just a few balls of Toy Box, each at 109yds per

100g ball, you can knit up quick projects. When

you swatch, you may find there’s a large range of

possible gauges because the yarn is squishy and

has a lot of loft.

The ball band recommends size 11 US [8mm] needles

to achieve a gauge of 12 stitches and 15 rows per 4”,

but when I knit my swatch I had different results.

So I’m off the recommended stitch gauge by one

less, so I knit the swatch loosely apparently. But…

For the row gauge, on US 11 [8mm] needles, I’m

getting 17 rows, instead of the 15 recommended on

the ball band. So, if I were doing a garment, I would

be knitting my rows too tightly and my stitches too

loosely. It goes to show why ball band gauge is just

a recommendation, not a rule carved in stone.

Duplicate stitch or Swiss darning is a way of adding

strands of yarn, usually to the knit side of a stretch

of stockinette knitting, but by using the same

principles and a crochet hook, you can weave in

ends. It’s hard to thread chunky yarn onto a tapestry

needle sometimes, so I prefer to crochet them in.

This video will show you how I accomplish this:

Keep reading because we’ll look at some free

patterns that would look great in Toy Box.

Don’t use a marker on your knitting unless it’s a water soluble kind.

These marks are to help me demonstrate weaving in ends.

8 KNITmuch | issue 6

6 patterns are very soft knit up in Toy Box yarn

When a new yarn comes along,

like Premier Yarns Toy Box, there

hasn’t necessarily been enough

time for the yarn producers to

make a whole lot of patterns. In

addition, with sites like Ravelry.

com and now

widely known, yarn producers

distribute the yarn with the

understanding that there are

many patterns that would work

equally well for the new yarn.

Here are some free patterns

which I found would look

smashing knit up in Toy Box

yarn. Some are listed as worsted

weight, however, it could mean

that either these were worked

on larger needles and get the

same gauge as you would with

a bulky yarn, or because Toy Box

is so squishy, it could be knit on

smaller needles to achieve a

tighter gauge.

The first is Lucy’s Owl, a cute

amigurumi figure that is knit in a

different self-striping chunky, but

would look great in any of the

Toy Box colors.

The second stuffed toy is Ruby

Bear, obviously christened

with the name of the color she

is knit in. But any of the Toy

Box colorways would make a

charming bear that you could

name as you wish.

Judging by the swatch in the first

photo, Toy Box yarn would offer

a soft and colorful striping on

these toys.

These 2 fun toys lend themselves to being

worked up in a self-striping chunky weight

yarn like Toy Box.

The classic feather and fan blanket looks great

in a marled self-striping yarn. Using Toy Box

colors, you’ll have a sweet and soft baby blanket

perfect for the next newborn in your circle of

family and friends.

2 fast-to-knit children’s tops in a bulky self-striping


Tin Can Knits’ famous any gauge any yarn

mittens would be a perfect application for

Toy Box.

Baby blankets are a great project

to work up in Toy Box. They’ll

be fast and you can change the

width and length to your taste

by simply changing the number

of pattern repeats you cast on

and the number of pattern row

repeats you add or remove.

This Baby Fan Blanket is a fast knit

in bulky self-striping and marled


It was a lot of fun to look for

little one’s garments knit in a

bulky yarn that would look super

in Toy Box. This little vest by

Marianna Mel would look great

in any colorway.

This other top-down, sleeveless,

vest would probably use only 2

balls of Toy Box, and would be

great wardrobe classic that would

last through several growth

spurts. You could lengthen it as

necessary with a few more rows

every few months.

The last pattern is for these

mittens. This is my go-to mitten

pattern because the designer, Tin

Can Knits, has made an ingenious

pattern that works up in any

thickness of yarn and any gauge.

I’ll share my pattern for slippers

next when I’ll how you a little

top-down pullover sweater for

wee ones using Premier Yarns

Toy Box.

KNITmuch | issue 6


Knit easy child slippers with Toy Box colors

These cozy slippers are a really quick knit, perfect for last minute gifts.

While looking for free patterns for children’s items

that could be knit with Toy Box yarn, I discovered

an absence of patterns for one project category,

namely slippers. So I decided to knit some with

this bulky, but light and airy self-striping yarn.

These quick-to-knit slippers start at the heel

with a provisional cast-on. When the knitting is

finished, the provisional cast-on is removed and

the sides are grafted together.

The body of the foot has a garter stitch edging

on it and is worked flat in rows, with some heel


To make these slippers, you’ll need 1 ball of Toy

Box, and size 7mm needles (choose circular for

magic loop or dpns, as the toes are worked in

the round.

Gauge is not essential for this pattern.

Instructions are given for a child’s small.

Instructions for (child’s large, adult small, and

adult large are in parentheses).

The neatly grafted heel seam is invisible and give the heel a

comfortable, sleek finish.

Each row begins with a purlwise slipped stitch, which gives the edge a

braided look. The garter stitch edging gives it some structure.

These comfortable, warm and soft slippers can be made in less than a

day. You can see the halo around the stitches.

10 KNITmuch | issue 6

Photos by Charles Voth

The heel and the edging give these slippers a nice fit and their unique


To make the toe, start knitting in the round and once the ideal length is

reached, you start decreasing until a small number of stitches remain to

be grafted.

The pattern

Cast on 15 (19, 19, 21) sts with scrap

yarn for a provisional cast-on.

Row 1: With Toy Box, sl first st

pwise, k5 (7, 7, 9), k1tbl, m1,

k1, m1, k1tbl, knit rem sts–17

(21, 21, 23) sts.

Row 2: Sl first st pwise, k2, p3 (5,

5, 6), p1tbl, p3, p1tbl, p3 (5,

5, 6), k3.

Row 3: Sl first st pwise, k5 (7, 7, 9),

k1tbl, m1, k3, m1, k1tbl, knit

rem sts–19 (23, 23, 25) sts.

Row 4: Sl first st pwise, k2, p3 (5,

5, 6), p1tbl, p5, p1tbl, p3 (5,

5, 6), k3.

Row 5: Sl first st pwise, k5, (7, 7,

9), k1tbl, m1, k5, m1, k1tbl,

knit rem sts–21 (25, 25,

27) sts.

Row 6: Sl first st pwise, k2, p3 (5,

5, 6), p1tbl, p7, p1tbl, p3, (5,

5, 6), k3.

With a simple twist of a stitch and a column

of purl stitches, the sole of the slipper takes


Small Size only

Row 7: Sl first st pwise, k2, k1tbl,

k7, k1tbl, knit rem sts

3 larger sizes only

Row 7: Sl first st pwise, k (7, 7, 9),

k1tbl, m1, k7, m1, k1tbl, knit

rem sts–(27, 27, 29) sts.

All sizes

Row 8: Sl first st pwise, k2, p3 (5,

5, 6), p1tbl, k1, p5 (7, 7, 7),

k1, p1tbl, p3 (5, 5, 6), k3.

Row 9: Sl first st pwise, k5 (7, 7,

9), k1tbl, p1, k5 (7, 7, 7), p1,

k1tbl, knit rem sts.

Rows 10-15 (17, 17, 19): Rep

rows 8 & 9. If your foot is

longer, you can add more

repeats here.

Next Row: Rep row 8.

Next Row: Sl first st pwise, k3

(5, 5, 7), ssk, k1tbl, p1, k1,

k2tog, k2 (4, 4, 4), p1, k1tbl,

k2tog, knit rem sts–18 (24,

24, 26) sts.

Next Row: Sl first st pwise, k2, p

(2, 4, 4, 5), p1tbl, k1, p4

(6, 6, 6), k1, p1tbl, p2 (4, 4,

5), k3.

Last Row: K4 (6, 6, 8), k1tbl, p1,

k4 (6, 6, 6), p1, k1tbl, knit

rem sts.

There’s a little bit of shaping just

after the join to knit in the round

so that the front part of the foot

isn’t saggy and the slipper hugs

the ball of the foot and the toes.

Join to continue working in rounds.

Rnd 1: K3, ssk, knit to last 5 sts,

k2tog, k3–16 (22, 22, 24) sts.

Rnd 2: K4 (6, 6, 8), k1tbl, p1, k4 (6,

6, 6), p1, k1tbl, knit rem sts.

Rep Rnd 2 until work measures 5

(6.5, 7, 7.5)”.


Rnd 3: *K3 (3, 3, 4), k2tog; rep

from * 2 (3, 3, 3, 3) more

times, knit rem st(s)–13 (18,

18, 20) sts.

Rnd 4: Knit.

Rnd 5: *K2 (4, 4, 3), k2tog; rep

from * 2 (2, 2, 3) more

times, knit any rem sts–10,

(15, 15, 16) sts.

Rnd 6: Knit.

Smallest Size only: Go to

Finishing section

3 larger sizes

Rnd 7: *K (3, 3, 2), k2tog; rep

from * (2, 2, 3) more times,

knit any rem sts–(12) sts.

Rnd 8: Knit.


Knit 3, then divide Toe sts in

half on two needles and graft

together with Kitchener stitch.

Weave in end.


Unravel provisional cast on and

divide sts in half on two needles.

Graft together with Kitchener

stitch. Weave in all ends.

KNITmuch | issue 6


Bobbles on

the yoke:

knitting a




using Toy



Premiere Toy Box (#5 Chunky/

Bulky; 109yds [100g]; 100%

Acrylic–more specifically, 2 plies

of fluffy acrylic spun around a 2

ply binding thread): 1 (1, 1, 2, 2,

3) balls.

Sizes US 10¾″ [7mm] and US 11

[8mm] circular needles for magic

loop or dbns to knit in the round.


On size US 11 [8mm] needles,

12 sts / 18 rows = 4″; row

gauge isn’t essential for this


These easy to make 3-chain bobbles add a

cute texture to this cuddly knit.

Check out this video of how to

make a 3-chain Bobble Stitch:

12 KNITmuch | issue 6

Premier Yarns Toy

Box in Wiffle Ball

knits up into a cute

soft pull over for a

little 6 month old.

Special Stitches

3-chain Bobble (3chB): K1, [wrap

yarn over RH needle from back

to front, pass st over wrap] 3

times, left leg of st just knit into

with LH needle and place on RH

needle, pass st over this lifted

strand ensuring bobble lies to

front of work.

Check out this video of how to

make the old Norwegian cast-on:

Pattern Begins

With larger needles, using old

Norwegian cast-on, cast on 28

(32, 36, 38, 38, 40) sts. Being

careful not to twist, join to knit in

the round.

Rnd 1: With smaller needles, [k1,

p1] around.

Rnd 2: Knit.

Rep these 2 rows once more.

Rnd 5: With larger needles, [k3

(4, 3, 3, 3, 5) m1] 8 (8, 12, 12,

12, 7) times, knit rem sts–36

(40, 48, 50, 50, 47) sts.

Rnd 6: Knit.

Size 2 only

Rnd 7: [K4, 3chB, k1, m1, k3, 3chB,

k2, m1, k2], 3chB, k3, m1,

k1, 3chB, k4, m1, 3chB, k4,

3chB, m1, rep between [ ]

once, k1, 3chB, k1–54 sts.

Other sizes

Rnd 7: [K5 (4, 5, 4, 4, –), 3chB] 6

(8, 8, 10, 10, –] times.

All Sizes

Rnds 8–9 (10, 11, 12, 12, 13): Knit.

Rnd 10 (11, 12, 13, 13, 14): [K8

(6, 6, 6, 5, 5), m1] 4 (6, 8, 8,

10, 10) times, knit rem sts–40

(46, 56, 58, 60, 64) sts.

Rnd 11 (12, 13, 14, 14, 15): [K5

(4, 6, 4, 5, 6), 3chB] 6 (8, 8,

10, 10, 9) times, knit rem sts.

Rnd(s) 12 (13-14, 14-16, 15-16,

15-18, 16-18): Knit.

Rnd 13 (15, 17, 17, 19, 19): [K10

(7, 9, 7, 7, 6), m1] 4 (6, 6, 8,

8, 10) times, knit rem sts–44

(52, 62, 66, 70, 74) sts.

Rnd 14 (16, 18, 18, 20, 20): Knit.

Divide Body and Sleeves

Set-up Row: *K15 (17, 20, 21, 23,

24), with scrap yarn cast on 4 (4,

4, 5, 5, 5) sts on LH needle, knit

across these sts, slide next 7 (9, 11,

12, 12, 14) sts onto a stitch holder

(or thread onto a length of scrap

yarn that you can tie closed; rep

from * once.

Photos by Charles Voth

This pattern has only 2 rounds with bobbles and they are staggered to

create some visual interest. The intense blues and grays of this colorway

are so attractive.

When joining colors for the sleeves, you may need to look further into

the skein for the right color to make a less jarring transition.


Rnd 1: *Knit to sts on scrap yarn cast-on, pick up

and knit a st in the gap between the sts on

the scrap yarn cast-on and the RH needle, pm,

knit across next 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5) sts, pm, pick

up and knit a st in the gap between the sts on

the scrap yarn cast-on and the LH needle; rep

from * once–42 (46, 52, 56, 58, 60) sts.

Rnd 2: Knit.

Rnd 3: *Knit to 2 sts before marker, ssk, rm, knit to

next marker, rm, k2tog; rep from * once–38

(42, 48, 52, 54, 56) sts.

Knit even until work measures approximately 5¾

(7, 8½, 10¼, 11, 12)” from cast-on at center front or



Rnd 1: With smaller needles, [k1, p1] around.

Rnd 2: Knit.

Rep last 2 rows 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3) times more. Cast off with

larger needle.

Sleeves (work in both arm openings)

Set-up round: Return 7 (9, 11, 12, 12, 14) sts on

holder to needle. Take scrap yarn off provisional

cast-on at underarm and place sts on larger needle.

Join yarn and knit across underarm stitches, pick up

and knit a st between underarm and sleeve sts, knit

around to next gap, pick up and knit a st between

sleeve sts and underarm sts–12 (14, 16, 18, 18, 20) sts.

Rnds 1–2: Knit.

Rnd 3: K2, k2tog, knit around–11 (13, 15, 17, 17, 19) sts.

Knit plain until sleeve measures 5¾ (7¼, 9½, 11, 12,

13¾)” from cast-on edge at collar.

Next Rnd: Knit 1 round, decreasing 1 (1, 1, 3, 3, 3) sts

evenly around–10 (12, 14, 14, 14, 16) sts.

Work Ribbing as for Body. Cast off with larger


Weave in all ends and lightly steam block.

TIP For less prominent bobble, work 2 chains

instead of 3.

I hope you give this adorable sweater a try, or at

least try this cast-on or these bobbles if they are

new to you. What kind of projects do you like to

knit with Premier Yarns Toy Box?

This yarn is so soft that it can be worn next to the skin. For this

reason, these sweaters are not super loose and bulky.

Charles Voth

KNITmuch | issue 6


Bella CashCharles Voth

Bella Cash, an affordable yet extremely lavish

yarn knits up into soft and warm fabric.

I have the pleasure, and believe

me, it’s definitely a pleasure, to knit

with Bella Cash.

This sport weight yarn is very

sturdy, yet extremely soft. It’s

a blend of 60% merino wool,

30% nylon, and 10% luxurious

cashmere. It has a beautiful

drape, and yet, it’s not at all

flimsy. I have been knitting it on

size 5 [3.75mm] needles, but I

would use smaller needles for a

slightly denser fabric that would

still be soft and drapey. With

slightly larger needles, like size 6

[4mm] Bella Cash would make a

stunning knit lace.

Bella Cash comes in 17 classic

shades that remind me of

the hand-knit sweaters of the

decades between the two world

wars. Muted, but not understated,

these colors don’t shout gaudy

luxury. Instead, they calmly and

succinctly state that this yarn

is luxurious without pomp or


As per usual, these color cards

are an approximate rendering of

the color of the yarn and will look

different on each screen or digital

device. Visit your local yarn store

for a true idea of the beauty of

these classic colors.

14 KNITmuch | issue 6

I'm swatching with Bella Cash yarn in (l-r)

Ice, Blush, and Graphite.

If you can take a white and mute

it, that’s what the color designers

have done with snow and cream,

the two whites in Bella Cash’s

palette. And the black is called

ebony, another nod to a precious

and rare commodity. However,

this yarn doesn’t come with the

same price tag as one would

expect. I have rarely purchased

cashmere yarn, because the

versions that I’ve seen in the past

were beyond my budget, but

this yarn, with a yardage of 230

yards per 50g, is entirely within my

definition of an affordable special

yarn. I’ve seen inferior merino/

nylon blends that cost the same,

and I’ve even seen 100% acrylic

sold for a similar price.

Bella Cash is spun from fine

merino wool, nylon, and

cashmere. Cashmere is one

of those fibers which, even in

as small an amount as 10%

cashmere, creates a yarn that

is soft and cushiony, while still

maintaining its integrity.

This photo doesn’t fully capture the soft

drape of Bella Cash yarn when it’s knit up.

In other words, Bella Cash

doesn’t pill or fall apart. The

nylon is there to strengthen the

merino’s more delicate nature

and to lower the overall cost of

the yarn.

My background in linguistics

had me curious about the name

Bella Cash. Bella is Italian or

Spanish and it comes from its

Latin root “bellus”, which means

fair, beautiful, or fine, which

this yarn definitely is. Now, I

realize that “Cash” is a short

form of cashmere, but it’s also

a play on words with regard

to the high value of this luxury

fiber. The word “cash” comes

from the Latin “capsa” which

means box. The association

with money comes from the

use of the money box, as in the

French “caisse” or the Italian

“cassa” which means “money in

hand” or “coin”. Bella Cash is the

perfect name for this yarn as it

captures its value and beauty.

16 of the 20 colors of Bella Cash, it’s up to you to imagine the ebony black, the white, and the 2

new colors that were recently added.

3 things to consider

when substituting yarns

Yarn label information from the Universal Yarn website shows fiber

composition, recommended needle sizes, and suggested gauge.

Yarn substitution is a bit of a fine art. We’ll look at

how best to substitute yarn so that you can use

Bella Cash in your favorite sport weight yarn pattern

or find a really good pattern to match.

I covered the pros and cons of knitting with Bella

Cash, well, pros mostly. I did some clicking around

looking for patterns to knit up with this luxurious yet

affordable yarn. Bella Cash is a new yarn in the market

and there really aren’t a lot of patterns for it yet.

It’s a remarkable pattern because it’s reversible. The

zigzag lace stitch pattern looks great on both sides

and you can even add buttons to both sides of the

brim. It takes only 1 ball, making it a great way to try

out Bella Cash.

But let’s say that you want more than a hat. You

do a search for a #2 sport-weight yarn on Ravelry

for an item that you want to knit and you find

hundreds, if not thousands, of designs to choose

from. Ravelry is great because most pattern

listings give yardage and weight. You can also

use the advanced search option to narrow your

search down to fiber type, and needle size, and

gauge, too.

These are all important factors when choosing

which yarn you want to substitute with another. It’s

so nice to have this information at our fingertips!

This zigzag lace hat out of Bella Cash is completely reversible, and the

pattern is free!

Fiber content and twist are important factors when substituting. yarns

Photos by Charles Voth

KNITmuch | issue 6


When I worked in a yarn store 30 years ago, all

we had was the weight of the yarn in balls and the

gauge in the pattern. We could find fiber content

on the labels, but at that time only half of the

companies listed yards or meters on the ball bands,

and, if you didn’t have the distributor’s catalogue,

there was no way of knowing what yardage was. If a

pattern called for 500g of worsted weight yarn, we

would sell 500g of worsted weight yarn. We tried to

convince the customers that an extra skein or ball

was a good idea, because we knew yardage varied,

but we had little to go by.

I’ve learned so much more since those days!

First, yards per ounce or meters per gram is a very

important number in yarn substitution. Check that

first! Always.

The next consideration is the fiber content. Different

fibers have different mass. Man-made fibers are

generally lighter than wool and cotton, but not

necessarily all natural fibers. This will affect the

weight and ultimately the yardage. Fiber content

also affects drape and elasticity and memory. Will

gravity pull on a nylon-wool blend as much as on

a cotton-acrylic blend? Probably not. Try to get a

similar ratio of the different kinds of fiber content.

The next thing to consider is twist. Does the original

yarn have a single-ply, 2-ply, or 4-ply construction? Is

the yarn tightly or loosely twisted? Is it dense or lofty?

Each of these factors will affect how the stitches look–

crisp and pronounced or fuzzy and blended–and

how it drapes. Where possible, try to find a substitute

that has similar twist and number of plies.

Color is, of course, somewhat important, but more

in the case of ombre, variegated, or gradient yarns.

Because Bella Cash all comes in solid colors, this

consideration doesn’t apply here. I usually leave

color out of the mix because it’s nearly impossible

to find a decent match, even with solids.

Yarn thickness is another issue. Bella Cash has a

range of suggested needle sizes and stitch gauges,

so it’s apparent that the final look of the knit fabric

will be very dependent on your knitting tension and

needle choice.

As with any other project, it’s crucial to swatch

to make sure you like the look of the fabric – if

it’s close “enough” or really a good match. I

recommend a 8″ x 8” or larger swatch however, as

drape really is hard to render in a little 4″ x 4” block.

This single ply wool yarn is also a fingering weight, but it’s lack of twist

and fuzz halo will naturally knit up quite differently than Bella Cash,

even if the gauge is the same.

If you haven’t seen it yet, there’s a great (new-tome)

website called It has a remarkable

collection of yarn substitution options. It not only

compares yarns similarly to the way I mention

above, it also provides a ball-park price comparison.

The folks at also compare the put-ups

of the different yarns, so you can avoid buying ten

50g skeins when you needed ten 100g skeins.

The merino silk (top-left) has a looser twist, but knits more densely

because of the fiber content. Bella Cash has nylon which, with the

merino content, makes Bella Cash a loftier, and therefore lighter, yarn.

16 KNITmuch | issue 6

So until designers publish some yarn-specific

patterns for Bella Cash, you can look it up on

Yarnsub and find a close substitute. You can also

look up Bella Cash on Ravelry and see what

patterns people have made with it, or find designs

that are specific to that yarn. Then you can check

the gauge instructions, knit a test swatch, and

you’re off to make a lovely knit out of a cashmere

merino and nylon blend yarn, at a fraction of the

cost of 100% cashmere.

What I learned about

Brioche knitting

I’m learning so much about different techniques,

one of them being Brioche knitting. Before I jump

into that, I prepared a plain stockinette swatch so

you can see the lovely Bella Cash in her simple

beauty. (I normally don’t personify yarn, but with a

name like Bella, who can fault me?)

The lavender yarn on the left is a hemp, cotton, and cashmere blend.

The sheer number of plies will make the knit fabric look different. In

addition, the hemp yarn has no elasticity and every slight change in

tension will be visible.

shape. Perhaps if I had blocked this swatch more

aggressively (wet blocking rather than a bit of

steam), I might have been able to hide this better.

Still, Bella Cash isn’t a wilting flower…even after

being re-knit so many times, much of the swatch

looks fine.

I also switched from wood needles to metal needles

half-way through the swatch. You can definitely see

the shift in tension where that happens…note to

self…get rid of those 20-year old bamboo needles.

The patina on them is sticky now.

A stockinette stitch swatch in “blush” Bella Cash

I knit this swatch after I had knit some of the other

ones in this feature. To make this swatch, I frogged

the other swatches – I re-knit this yarn 4 times! I

think, in part, this is the cause for the unevenness

in my stitches…at least, to some degree. In the top

left of the photo about ⅓ of the way down from

the top, you may notice that some of my stitches

seem to be made out of thinner yarn than the

rest. I can’t blame this on the yarn: I think after

knitting and frogging so many times I actually

may have stretched segments of the yarn out of

My rough attempt at Brioche stitch taught me much. I began (at the

bottom) with two-color rib, then went into corrugated rib, and upward

to Brioche.

KNITmuch | issue 6


Now, to the Brioche swatch. It’s only 1 swatch… and

at least the Bella Cash is pretty!

As I describe the different sections of this swatch, I’ll

share some wisdom I gleaned from this swatch, and

what I would do differently next time.

The cast on was fine. I tied the 2 colors together

into a slip knot and placed it on my 2 needles

held together. I used the Old Norwegian cast on,

alternating the colors used for the loop and the

securing strands underneath the needle. Then, I

did several rows of 2-color ribbing where I bought

both yarns forward for the purl stitches even

though I only used the one color to purl. I knew

this wasn’t Brioche, but I wanted to see if it would

work as a good edging. I really like how it looks

and it does complement the Brioche, but it doesn’t

have the fullness of Brioche, so it definitely cinched

in the fabric.

At this point, I had frogged my swatch 3 times

because I hadn’t gotten the right cast-on and I

didn’t like the effect when I jumped right into the

Brioche. On top of this, I had used needles that

were too big, and I wasn’t going to frog again.

However, I did want to try a different 2-color ribbing,

so in the middle of the swatch I tried corrugated

ribbing. In these rows, I only brought the purl stitch

color forward to purl and then returned it to the

back as a float when I worked the knit stitches. On

the reverse side, you can see the floats. Corrugated

ribbing has definite right and wrong sides. This

defeats the reversible feature of Brioche, so using

corrugated ribbing was out.

Next, I went into the Brioche section. What I’ve

noticed with Brioche is that, in some cases, the light

color pops out more when it’s the knit stitch side

than the dark, and in other cases the dark color

pops more. I really have no idea why this is the case,

as I’d think that the light color would always pop.

Perhaps it’s the saturation of the hue that matters.

At any rate, in my swatch the pink yarn is shouting

the loudest.

The charcoal gray Bella Cash stands out on the the wrong side of a

brioche swatch with the corrugated ribbing showing.

I was a bit overambitious with this swatch. First, I still

think the needle size I used was too large and that

it made the stitches uneven. Second, I tried onepass

2-color Brioche. Normally with Brioche, you

knit on double-pointed needles or a circular needle

so that you can knit the first pass in one color, then

the second pass with the other. I learned the 2-pass

approach from Very Pink, a helpful video. Thanks to

podcaster Nathan Taylor (Sockmatician), I was able

to jump past the 2-pass system and try one pass.

I do love the 1-pass approach even more, but for

my first attempt (well, officially my 3rd, as I frogged

the first 2), my tension is very uneven. I did a lot of

experimenting with various knitting styles. I tried

combination knitting purl, the Norwegian purl, and

the continental purl, which I think contributed to the

lack of consistency in my swatch. Again, I can’t fault

Bella Cash for this!

The charcoal gray Bella Cash stands out on the the wrong side of a

brioche swatch with the corrugated ribbing showing.

The softness and fineness of Bella Cash really does look great in

stockinette stitch.

Lastly, perhaps, a sport weight yarn, wasn’t the best

yarn to use to learn Brioche, either. I should have

tried something less delicate. I was just so taken

with the gray and pink combination of these Bella

Cash yarns and pushed on. Maybe when I’m a bit

more experienced at Brioche, this will work better.

18 KNITmuch | issue 6

What happens when you knit in the stitch below?

So as I say “Don’t call me, I’ll call

you” to my Brioche knitting effort,

but I gladly say “Hello” to knitting

in the stitch that follows! This

technique involves either purling

or knitting into the stitch one row

below the row you’re working on.

When a new stitch is formed via

knitting through the stitch in the

row below, it basically “unravels”

the stitch that was on the left

needle. Both the lower stitch and

the loop of the stitch on the left

needle come up and around the

new stitch.

These 2 grays are a perfect contrast for

knitting in the stitch below.

If you were to knit 1 below across

a whole row, you would basically

unravel it and have a complete

mess, but by deliberately

selecting certain stitches to knit

below, you can develop a lovely

sequence of texture. I think that

this technique looks nicest in

more than one color, so, since I

have these 2 lovely grays and the

pale rose of Bella Cash blush, I

can tuck in.

You only have to use 1 color per row, but

by knitting in the stitch below with multiple

colors, you get this lovely effect.

You can see I tried several

different approaches in this

swatch, using the 3 colors and

different sequences of knit 1

below stitches. In the part that

curled up, I knit 1 below every

other stitch and knit the others,

then purled across with a third

color, carrying the first one. It

really didn’t look right, even

though the section that it is

curled up is kind of nice. You’re

not missing anything.

In the middle section – the one I

like the most – I did the following

over an even number of stitches.

Row 1: [With color 1, k1 below;

k1] across.

Row 2: [With color 2, p1 below;

p1] across.

Row 3: [With color 3, k1 below;

k1] across.

Row 4: [With color 1, p1 below;

p1] across.

Row 5: [With color 2, k1 below;

k1] across.

Row 6: [With color 3, p1 below;

p1] across.

Repeat these 6 rows for the


A close-up of the middle section of my

swatch shows how altering the “worked in

the row below” stitches creates this diagonal

shift in the colors.

Next, I tried the following, but it

really wasn’t all that appealing

to me.

Row 1: [With color 1, k1 below;

k1] across.

Row 2: [With color 2, p1 below;

p1] across.

Row 3: With color 3, knit across.

Row 4: [With color 1, p1 below;

p1] across.

Row 5: [With color 2, k1 below;

k1] across.

Row 6: With color 3, purl across.

So I quickly changed it to this.

Row 1: [With color 1, k1 below;

k1] across.

Row 2: With color 2, purl across.

Row 3: [With color 3, k1 below;

k1] across.

Row 4: With color 1, purl across.

Row 5: [With color 2, k1 below;

k1] across.

Row 6: With color 3, purl across.

KNITmuch | issue 6


Two variations of the knit 1 below stitch make

different colors stand out.

Bella Cash yarn

makes knit textures sing!

The contrast between the light and dark

colors creates a stacked bead motif or a

honeycomb look on the “wrong” side of the

work. There’s no reason you couldn’t make it

the “right” side!

And now we’ll stick with one color, with a focus on knitting textured

patterns with this lovely wool-nylon-cashmere blend.

The reverse side of this swatch

is also very appealing to me. It’s

a neat and tidy display of what I

call yarn hugs. The contrasting

strands of one color reach up

and hold on to the loops of the

next color used. It reminds me

of a circle of cut-out paper dolls

holding hands.

If you’d like to learn a whole

lot more about Knit One Below,

there is a book by that title

written by Elise Duvekot which

has loads of information about

technique and many lovely

patterns on which to practice.

This shawl is still a design in

progress. I haven’t got it looking

quite the way I’d like, but I can

use this piece to show how Bella

Cash does so well with texture.

The flame-like motifs or the ones

that remind me of the peaks of

meringue on a lemon pie, or a

swirl of soft-serve ice cream are

made with a ribbing that has

twisted knit stitches on one side

and twisted purl stitches on the

return rows. Some yarns that are

worked in a twisted rib become

taut and stiff. Not Bella Cash: it’s

still as soft as ever, yet structurally,

it holds up quite well.

Twisted stitches, lace eyelets and garter stitch all look amazing in Bella Cash.

In this swatch, you can see that I’ve used some garter stitch, some

ribbing, some lace stitches and some picots to test Bella Cash’s ability

to make texture pop. It doesn’t disappoint.

Bella Cash stays soft and pliable even in

twisted ribbing

20 KNITmuch | issue 6

The garter stitch sections of this swatch are super

cushiony, very squooshy. It’s so hard not to make up

adjectives that describe how soft these garter stitch

triangles are. The stitches are even, and the amount

of twist in this yarn really makes it easy to get even


The yarn-over eyelets and the open stitches that

aren’t twisted also hold their own in this yarn. They

frame the columns of twisted stitches nicely and,

when necessary, close up to bring the flame motifs

to a point.

As a crocheter, I find knitting picot tips so much

more work than crocheting them, but I try not to

shy away from a challenge, so here, too, I dug in all

the way. I worked some purl-stitch picots along the

edge of this swatch and feel a little ho-hum about

them. I think I need to find a Pinterest board that

just has picot edgings!

Thanks for joining me as we looked at Bella Cash

yarn, and how to substitute it for either an inferior

or too pricey yarn, how not to knit Brioche, how to

knit 1 below, and how Bella Cash beautifully shows

off textured stitches.

Charles Voth

Garter stitch wedges are used to create the increases for this shawl pattern.

The picots on the edge of this sample are made with a multiple

increase and then a purl bind off.

KNITmuch | issue 6


With Love Stripes

Michelle Nguyen

With Love Stripes, the very NEW yarn from Red Heart – so much to

explore with this self-striping yarn!

This little baby looks like she’s enjoying her blanket. It’s made

from the colorway Candy Stripe.

I’m very impressed with the VERY

NEW Red Heart’s striped pattern

repertoire. On With Love Stripes

page, there are already several

striped patterns linked directly

to the yarn, but when you’re first

working with self-striping yarns, it

can be confusing and you’re really

not sure where to start. Score one

for Red Heart because they’ve

already got so many patterns

ready to go for you. The first one

I’ll go over with you is the Self-

Striping Baby Blanket.

When I first unboxed this yarn, I

was thinking to myself that the

color repeats couldn’t be that

long, that they’d be best for

socks. Really thick socks at that,

but what else could I make with


Here's a

closeup of

the pattern

and boarder.

It’s easy to


I’m no longer skeptical about

these striped skeins because

when I actually did measure the

length of the yarn in the repeat

it was 27”. This blanket calls for

118 stitches to be cast on and the

final measurements are 36” x 38”.

That’s a crib blanket, there’s no

way around it. I can’t believe the

stripe pattern is still happening

at that length, but it makes

complete sense to have the

pattern repeats that long.

There will be many happy baby

blanket knitters out there!

22 KNITmuch | issue 6

Photos by Michelle Nguyen

The pattern itself is a simple one, easy to memorize.

There are really only two rows of pattern and the

other ten are variations on stockinette and garter

stitch. It adds texture around the pattern rows and

a garter stitch boarder. With this pattern you’ll

be zipping away in no time. If you’re not one for

patterns, you can simply use the shell of this pattern

for your own baby blanket. Cast on 118 stitches and

do five rows of a garter stitch boarder (to prevent

curling) and head off into stockinette oblivion. You’ll

get the same nice slim stripes as you see in the

pattern, but with a stockinette finish. Don’t forget to

do your garter stitch boarder as you go and at the

very end of your blanket.

This is an excellent pattern to start sharpening your

appetite for stripes. If you don’t currently have any

babies to knit for, or any on the way, you can always

knit this up and put it in the future gift pile. There’s

no harm being prepared and you never know when

you’ll need an unexpected baby shower gift.

This baby is accessorizing her stripes and wardrobe. She takes a color

from the blanket and uses that to accentuate the look the stripes already


The NEW With Love Stripes yarn

takes the ‘work’ out of ‘color work’

I noticed the Color Block Hat

when scrolling through the other

With Love patterns on the Red

Heart website. I was looking

for something that would lend

itself well to being knit with self

striping yarn and thought this

was the perfect opportunity to

show how the colors look when

you’re decreasing.

The NEW With Love Stripes yarn takes the

guess work out of knitting stripes.

As I you decrease and change

the circumference of your

garment, you’re going to change

the nature of your stripes. Since

you’re decreasing, the amount

of stitches, your stripes will get

thicker. Until you just have a solid

circle of color at the crown.

If this look really bothers you,

put a pompom on the top! I

really like the neat look of the

decreases on the crown of a hat,

but not everyone likes the same

thing. Usually if my finishing is

messy, I’ll pop a pompom on the

top of a hat, but that just stays

between us right?

The way the colors worked out looks as

though it was meant to be. The decreasing

was very quick so there was not a long

stretch of knitting at a different gauge.

The top of my hat. Here's another angle on

the stripes at the top of the hat, and the

reason there are so many pompom’s on the

hats I make.

KNITmuch | issue 6


The colors starting to form their stripes along the brim of the hat. The

ribbing makes the stripe work look subtly different.

Another thing you want to be mindful of, when

you’re casting on, is the amount of yarn you’re

using (if you’re using a long tailed cast on). I know

I pulled out a lot of extra yarn to ensure I didn’t

run out, as a result, I have a half stripe around the

ribbing of the hat. It’s difficult to tell with the ribbing,

but I felt like I wasted a lot of yarn and that stripe

was not as full as it should have been.

This hat is the perfect pattern to go with self-striping

yarn. It’s plain and easy, you just knit in stockinette

stitch and the yarn does the work for you. Can

you imagine trying to knit this with color work? It

would have taken some time to weave in all the

ends, switch up yarn, not get it tangled, try to find

the color you were just using because it happens to

have run off somewhere. Overall it’s just a cleaner

and much simpler process.

Take all the ‘work’ out of ‘color work’ with With Love

Stripes. There will be no more fighting multiple balls

of yarn or getting everything hopelessly tangled.

You can add interest to your knitting without the

extra fuss.

The finished product! The stripes look great in this hat pattern!

Michelle Nguyen

24 KNITmuch | issue 6

The Color Block Hat

The qualities and benefits of knitting

with Red Heart Soft yarn

Michelle Nguyen

Soft yarn in the colors Chocolate, Biscuit, and

Sea Foam.

The lovely colors Biscuit, Leaf and Sea Foam.

The range of high quality

yarn produced by Red Heart

is impressive and Soft is no

exception. Made from 100%

acrylic, it has 256yd [234m]

in one ball. My favorite care

instructions: machine wash and

dry. Now, let’s really get into the

meat of this yarn.

Soft yarn by Red Heart has a

little bit of a sheen to it. Nothing

overly sparkly or anything, but a

soft glow. I really love this effect;

if you’re knitting a garment in

a solid color, it adds a lot of

depth to it. Even in the ball, the

light highlights off the skein and

makes it seem lighter in some

places and darker in others.

Soft yarn is perfect for making

a simple pattern in a plain color

look more sophisticated. The

way the light bounces off the

yarn makes it look a little bit

fancier with no additional work

needed. I have mentioned

before about using the right

yarn for the right project. If

your yarn is 'busy', use a plain

pattern, if your yarn is plain

use a textured pattern. I really

think this yarn is an exception to

that rule because in all senses

of the word, this is a plain yarn,

but it does well in either a

plain pattern or a busy one. It

accentuates any stitches very

well, even the stockinette stitch.

From bottom to top, stockinette, seed stitch,

and eyelettes. All these stitches look fabulous

in this yarn.

The yarn really lives up to its

name and is very soft. As I sit

here fondling Red Heart’s Soft

yarn, there are no bumps or

imperfections on the surface. Since

this yarn has so much depth, I

expected it to be a little stiffer, but

it’s very relaxed and fluid.

A close up on the eyelets without the doubled

up fabric

KNITmuch | issue 6


Soft yarn in the colors Cinnabar, Chocolate, Biscuit, and Sea Foam.

This is a perfect yarn for working on a garment

where you don’t want a lot of stretch. I’ve tripped

over that pitfall when working on market bags.

You knit something up perfectly, but once you put

anything into it, the bag stretches down to the

floor. I’d say if you were knitting any garments you

wanted a bit of stretch in (a hat brim, fingerless

mittens, etc.) I’d use a German Twisted Cast On, to

add more stretch where you need it.

In summary, I don’t think there’s a project you

couldn’t knit with Soft yarn. It lends itself very well

to most things. Unless you’re looking for something

to make an intentionally itchy sweater or some kind

of hair shirt, you’re going to be pleased with your

finished object knit up with Soft yarn!

Knitting the Two-Point Hat pattern with Soft yarn

The pattern I chose to go over with you using Soft

yarn by Red Heart is the Two-Pointed Hat pattern. I

think this pattern has an interesting shape and there’s

space to play with the techniques if you wanted to

color outside the lines a little bit. It’s also a quick hat

to make for kids, and because of that, can be knit up

in several colors for their several outfits.

I’m going over the Two-Pointed Hat pattern

instructions first, because I had to read it a couple

times in order to understand what was happening.

The instructions are clear, but I was starting from a

point where I thought I knew how it was going to

be knit. I was completely wrong and couldn’t get

out of that head-space to understand what the

instructions were actually telling me! This hat is

knit flat and folded in half. You’re knitting the brim,

then stockinette up and over the head and knit the

second half of the brim on the other end or side.

Then simply seam up the sides. The fold line is at

the top of the hat.

Red Heart’s Two-Pointed Hat. Click through for the free pattern.

26 KNITmuch | issue 6

The completed version of the Two-Pointed

Hat laying flat.

If you’re like me and want to

avoid seaming at all costs, you

can knit it in the round. The

amount of stitches called for is

half the circumference of the

head, so ensure to double the

amount of stitches you’re casting

on. After casting on, immediately

join into the round and follow

the instructions from there. The

hat says to knit until it’s 13½”

(15½”, 17½”) from the cast on,

then work the 1½” brim. In total

the hat, when knit flat, would be

16” (18”, 20”) long. You don’t want

to knit it that long because we’re

not folding it in half anymore.

You’re going to knit up until the

half point, so knit until your hat in

the round reaches 8” (9”, 10”).

The Two-Pointed Hat in the color Deep Sea

I know the pattern says to seam

the sides and if you’re following

along at home, you’re likely

going to realize there’s an open

top that needs to be closed.

I’m not going back to seaming

though! I have a passionate

love of the Kitchener stitch, so

don’t bind off the top when

you get there. Simply split your

stitches onto two needles or two

halves of a circular needle. Then

Kitchener stitch that bad boy up!

The top of the hat is going to be

closed and you’re two points will

be in place!

If Deep Sea is too dark for your tastes, check

out Sea Foam (top). The other two colors

Biscuit and Chocolate.

This is the perfect opportunity to

bring up ‘reading your knitting’.

When I cast this project on, I

didn’t realize I was supposed to

be folding it from the top down,

I thought I was folding it side to

side. Looking at the amount of

stitches I cast on, I knew it was

going to be way too small. Even

the adult size looked like it might

be a newborn size, if I were lucky.

I doubled the stitches because

I 'guesstimated' that would be

around the right size. Only after

I was almost done the hat did

I realize I did need to double

the stitches. I was wrong about

doubling the stitches.

By looking at my knitting

(or reading it) I was able to

determine that I had a problem

early on in this project.

While you’re knitting, don’t just

blindly follow the instructions,

read instructions all the way

through before starting the

cast on. Use your judgement

and avoid continuing to knit a

garment that you may have to

rip out later!

I’m a big fan of trusting your

intuition while knitting. If you’re

looking at a garment and

thinking it looks much too large

or small, then it very well may be.

Take another look at your pattern,

your gauge, your yarn. Make

sure nothing has changed and

your math is correct.

In this case, try one hat in the

round and one knit flat, let me

know which one you like more!

Soft yarn is an excellent yarn for

knitting just about everything

for its softness and sheen, but

particularly for hats, which

are worn on our heads. Stitch

definition is excellent, so using

even the most complex stitch

patterns is recommended.

Michelle Nguyen

KNITmuch | issue 6


Non-allergenic shawls and socks with Allegro

Charles Voth

We’re looking at a yarn by Wisdom

Yarns that is truly the answer to the

question, “can I make non-allergenic,

non-wool socks that stay up on my

legs?” Allegro, Italian for merry

and cheerful, it will have your toes


3 of the 6 colorways of Allegro: Sea Rhythm,

Apricot Air, and Night Waltz

Each ball of this yarn has 470yds

and 100g. That’s a generous amount

of yardage, and enough to make

men’s socks of decent length, and

women’s socks that reach midcalf.

It comes in 6 colorways. Each

is named with a type of musical

composition from classical music,

like the yarn itself.

The way the colorists dyed this

yarn is musical on its own. There

are segments that are semi-solid

and create stripes in socks, which

are divided by other sections of

speckled yarn that looks like notes

on a music score. For those who

are musically inclined, imagine the

semi-solid sections like a full sound

with many instruments each adding

to the richness of the music, but in

this case it’s the saturation of color.

The speckled parts are like the

soloists highlighting the themes of

the melody.

If you’ve ever knit with man-made

or plant-based fibers to avoid

wool or animal fibers because

of allergies or vegan values, you

know that cotton and bamboo and

other types of rayon, and acrylic

all leave something to be desired

in sock yarn because there is little

stretch or memory in most other

yarns out there on the market.

Allegro contains both acrylic and

PBT (Polybutylene terephthalate),

a substance something like Lycra

that’s used in thread to manufacture

aquatic garments and sportswear.

The PBT gives an amazing amount

of both stretch and memory to the

yarn. After tugging on it to get it

past your heels, you’ll find that it

bounces right back into place and

stays up on your calves. The label

says it can be washed in warm water

and tumble dried.

Garter stitch evenly distributes the colors of

this Allegro colorway called Grape Sonata.

Sock knitters often complain

about color pooling in variegated

and dip-dyed yarns. Color

pooling is the unintentional

appearance of areas with one

color concentration. It may

look blotchy or spotty, and not

everyone likes it. Some people try

many tricks like knitting socks with

2 balls of yarn at the same time,

changing the yarn every round or

so to interrupt the pooling. Other

people use textured patterns to

“disrupt” the patchiness.

Allegro in Grape Sonata creates a melody of

stripes and speckles.

The Allegro yarn I'm talking about

here has been dyed to be a selfstriping

yarn, but there are not

only stripes. There are variegated

segments that break up the

stripes with a more mottled look.

There’s a free basic sock pattern

which is ideal for the yarn and

highlights its colorways and dye



KNITmuch | issue 6

Photos courtesy of Wisdom Yarns


Knit a shawlette with

non-allergenic yarn

Knit this easy scarf with scalloped edges with 1

ball of Allegro.

Detail of the scalloped edges knit with short

rows, showing how the colors concentrate

Eyelets are formed beside the scallops where

there are multiple increases in one stitch

Every scallop looks different, drawing attention

to the different colors of the variegated yarn.

Charles Voth

30 KNITmuch | issue 6

Non-allergenic yarns are excellent

for those with a vegan outlook or

who are allergic to wool. So far we

looked at using i-cords as a design

feature. Let's move to an easier

project that you can knit in about 6

to 10 hours.

I knit the shawlette on the left.

Well, actually, I designed it and

my wife knit it, with one skein

of Allegro, in the Grape Sonata


The skills that you need to knit

this shawlette include garter

stitch, familiarity with picking

up and knitting in the sides of

knit fabric, and really easy short

rows. The combination of these

techniques end up with this

oblique triangular shape that

form scalloped edges. Across

the straight edge the shawlette

is 46” long and the depth of the

triangle to the point is 13”.

Pattern Notes

Slip all slipped stitches purlwise

with yarn in front.


St(s): stitch(es)

K: knit

Yfwd: yarn forward

Sl: slip stitch


Cast on 6 sts.

Row 1: Sl 1, K5.

Row 2: Sl 1, K4, yfwd, k1–7 sts

Row 3: Sl 1, K6.

Row 4: Sl 1, knit to last st, yfwd, k1.

Row 5: Sl 1, knit across.

Rows 6-13: Rep Rows 4 & 5.

Row 14: Sl 1, knit to last st, yfwd,

k1, pick up and knit 1 st in

each of 6 eyelets across

edge of shawl.

Row 15: Sl 1, knit 6, (yfwd, k1) 3

times in next st, knit to last

st, yfwd, k1.

Row 16: Sl 1, knit across.

Row 17: Sl 1, k11, turn, leaving

rem sts unworked.

Row 18: Sl 1, knit across.

Row 19: Sl 1, k10, turn, leaving

rem sts unworked.

Row 20: Sl 1, knit across.

Odd Rows 21-29: Sl 1, knit 1

less than previous row as

established a, turn, leaving

rem sts unworked.

Even rows 22-30: Sl 1, knit across.

Row 31: Sl 1, k5, k7 tbl, knit to

last st, yfwd, k1.

Row 32: Sl 1, knit.

Repeat rows 6-32 until there are

approximately 2 yards of yarn left.

Bind off purlwise.

Give this lovely shawlette as a

holiday gift to that vegan loved

one and they’ll enjoy its squishy

softness for years!

Photos by Charles Voth

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A small garter stitch swatch

First stitch of cable cast on

How to knit on

an I-cord edging

A couple pairs of socks and a shawl later, I thought

how fun it would be to have a different sort of

edging along the top of a sock or the length of

a shawl. I’ll demonstrate how to make an i-cord

edging with 2 of these yarns.

I’ve knit a little garter stitch swatch in the and

added on an I-cord edging.

I-cord is the termed coined by knitter

extraordinaire, Elizabeth Zimmerman, and it means

idiot-cord, named as such because she used these

to attach pairs of mittens to each other. Thus, any

idiot would be prevented from losing one of their

hand-made mittens.

Placing the cable cast on stitch back onto the left needle

These four stitches will make the i-cord edging

32 KNITmuch | issue 6

If you have ever knit with a French knitting loom,

or done spool knitting, with 4 or 5 nails inserted

around the hole of a wooden thread spool, you’ve

made an I-cord. At least, the wooden spool was my

first exposure to the i-cord. My dad made me one

when I was 5. Nowadays, you can find i-cord looms

with little cranks that make it possible to churn out

yards of i-cord painlessly. Perfect if you want to

wrap the i-cord into a coil and stitch it together to

make a flat round or oval item.

But if you made an i-cord on its own, it would

certainly be quite tedious to try to sew it on as an

edging to knitting, so I propose this knitted-on

version. You’ll need 2 double-pointed needles to

achieve this edging.

The first step is to use the cable cast on to add 4

stitches to the current swatch. To do this, insert the

needle between the first and second stitches on the

left-hand needle and knit up a loop, twist the right

needle so that you can return the new loop to the

left needle. Then repeat this 3 more times.

Photos by Charles Voth

The next stage is to knit the first 3

stitches of the i-cord, and then knit

the next 2 together through the

back loops, joining the cable cast

on to the body of the swatch. Some

people prefer to slip the third stitch,

knit the fourth and pass the slipped

stitch over. Then slide the 4 stitches

to the opposite end of the needle,

converting it to a left-hand needle.

Knit the first 3 stitches and work

the 4th and 5th together in your

preferred manner.

If you knit 1 round of i-cord for each

stitch that is on the needle, you may

end up with a buckle in the fabric.

When picking up stitches along a

stockinette stitch edge, we usually

don’t pick up a stitch for every

row either, because stitch gauge

and row gauge aren’t symmetrical.

Many knitting books and designers

recommend picking up 3 sts for

every 4 rows of stockinette. In the

case of the i-cord, it is essentially a

little tube of stockinette stitch, so this

would also mean that the number

of rounds on the i-cord would not

correspond exactly to the number

of stitches along the edge we are

knitting on to. To solve this, we knit

3 rounds of i-cord, and join to 3

stitches, and then work one round

on the i-cord where 4 stitches were

knit and slide them back to the other

end of the double-pointed needle

without a join. This is how to avoid a

curved or buckling i-cord edging.

I went exploring a little further with

this i-cord edging and tried to go

around a corner. I’m not thrilled

with how it turned out, so I need to

experiment a bit more before I give

you any tips on how to achieve a

nice corner.

Knitting the 4th stitch together with the first stitch from the main work.

Knit 1 plain round every 4th row to avoid buckling or flaring.

Finished i-cord edging from the right side

My first messy attempt at working the i-cord edging around a corner

Finished i-cord edging on the wrong side of the fabric

KNITmuch | issue 6


Using a knit i-cord as a

cast-on technique

Allegro a non-allergenic yarn, in our exploration of

I-cord, in this case, how to use it for casting on.

When i-cord is used as a cast-on edge the result is a neat finish.

I showed you how to knit on an i-cord edging to

existing stitches. But looking at the above photo,

you really wouldn’t be able to tell for sure whether I

knit this blue-and-green i-cord onto the red garter

stitch, but I’ll tell you that I didn’t.

Instead, I made the i-cord first, and then with the

bright red, I added the stitches of the main part of

the swatch.

To do this, you need to look carefully at the stitches

in the I-cord and decide whether you want to use

the upper strand of a horizontal stockinette V-stitch

or the lower, and then you need to be consistent as

you work along the I-cord, always lifting the same

strand of the “V”.

How long should you make your i-cord cast on?

Well, you’ll need to do a bit of math. First, divide the

number of stitches required for your knit item. Let’s

say it’s a scarf with 55 stitches. Divide this number

by 3 and “keep” the remainder aside.

55 ÷ 3 = 18 with a remainder of 1.

Take the answer, in this case 18, and multiply by 4.

18 x 4 = 72, and then add the remainder.

72 + 1 = 73.

An i-cord cast-on can be used to create curved edges.


KNITmuch | issue 6

So you need to work 73 rounds of

i-cord for this scarf. When I do this, I

could use my cast-on round as one

of the needed rounds. At the end of

the 73 rounds, I simply run the end of

the yarn through the 4 stitches on the

needle and cinch them closed. If you

were making the scarf with the same

yarn as the i-cord, do the following

instead: k2tog, k2tog, pass the first st

over the 2nd. Then you can pick up

stitches along the i-cord right off the


Pick up 3 stitches for every 4 rounds in

the i-cord and you’ll avoid buckling or

flaring edges.

I went a little crazy with my

experimenting with the i-cord cast-on

and ended up with this. Please guess

what you think this will end up being

when I’m done knitting it.

Using both the technique from the

previous page and this cast-on in

combination yields some amazing

results. This motif is from a pattern I

fell in love with while browsing through

Ravelry called Jewel Dragon. It’s a

gorgeous pattern and would really suit

the bright colorways of his yarn.

A mystery project! What do you think this is going to be?

This piece uses i-cord both as a cast-on and as an edging technique to

create an amazing textile.

Charles Voth

One “scale” motif of the Jewel Dragon pattern.

KNITmuch | issue 6



Sweet Rolls

These 2 rolls called Capuccino Pop (top left) and Caramel Swirl (right)

make me thirsty to knit!

This blend of cornflower blue and lavender fibers make up a heather

color section in the Punch Pop colorway.

This cream section from the Pop Cappuccino colorway has speckles of

an oatmeal beige distributed randomly across this stretch of yarn.

4 plies are spun together to give this yarn a squishy texture and clean

stitch definition.

36 KNITmuch | issue 6

Charles Voth

Sweet Roll is a worsted weight yarn and it’s 100%

acrylic that is packaged in a yarn cake or “roll”

format. It comes in 26 colorways (scroll to the

bottom). Each colorway consists of long repeats

of 3 colors, and each in each roll, the colors repeat

at least twice per roll. The length of each color

segment is fairly consistent. At the transition points

the change from one color to another takes place

over a 1″ or 2″ segment.

In some of the colorways, each color is dyed with a

more heathered look, where several small strands of

fiber are dyed different colors and then blended to

create a mottled look.

In other colorways, each color is more solid with

the occasional speckle or dollop of one of the other

colors from the scheme.

The ball band says that Sweet Roll knits up at 17

stitches per 4″, which makes it a tad bit thicker than

a worsted weight, more like an Aran weight, but it’s

a soft, ‘cushiony’ (for lack of a better word) yarn that

has a lot of spring to it, so knitting at an 18-stitch

gauge will work great as well. Each roll weighs 5oz

[140g] and has 245yds [224m].

The architecture of Sweet Roll is really interesting. It

consists of 4 individual plies that are twisted together

to give the yarn nice definition. Each of these 4 plies

is crimped or something like that. I don’t know what

the process is called, but it gives the end result a

crepe finish, and it also reduces pilling a lot. There’s

no halo around this yarn, even after knitting and with

the usual friction of rubbing against the sides of a

project bag, my hands, and the needles. I didn’t have

a chance to throw it in the washing machine, but I

predict very little if any pilling.

Next, let's take a look at different patterns and

stitches that really complement Sweet Roll yarn.

3 patterns to knit with self-striping worsted weight yarn

Self-striping sock yarn has been

around for quite a few years,

but I haven’t run across worsted

weight self-striping yarn. One of

the bonuses of self-striping yarn

is that color choices and color

changes are all done for you.

There are no knots to tie and

there’s no headache to be had

from trying to get the right colors

to coordinate. Sweet Roll yarn

solves these 2 issues very well.

Sweet Roll isn’t a gradient yarn,

though. The color transitions

are brief rather than happening

gradually over long stretches

of yarn. I have heard reports

of a knot appearing in a roll

in one spot every rare once

in a while, but this does

happen occasionally during

the manufacturing process of

all yarns and can’t be helped.

The mills that spin Sweet Roll

obviously take pains to reattach

the yarn in the same color stripe

where the break happens rather

than creating an even more

abrupt color change at the knot!

It never happened to me though,

and I’ve knit through 8 of these

self-striping skeins from different


Premier Yarns has these 3

patterns for free and you can

see how the color change

happens randomly. I like the

natural transitions and the color

schemes that they’ve chosen

are great.

Medium gray is an elegant

neutral and the classic cable

stitch pattern make the easyto-knit

Tassel Hat shown below

a great style for cooler weather


Knit this lovely Simply Stripey

Shawl that boasts color changes

and offers warmth on a lazy

afternoon around the home.

If you have a sweet baby in

your family, or another young

lady who wants to be warm

with a bit of pizzazz as well,

this easy little Color Block Baby

Blanket is a great introduction

to knitting in the round.

I’ll introduce you to one of my

patterns that takes advantage of

the color transitions in a new way

that’s quite unique looking, even

though I only knitted and purled.

2 rolls of the multicolored, self-striping,

worsted weight Sweet Roll in the Punch Pop

colorway. I love this fun color combination.

Take the chill off with this Ice Pop colorway of

Sweet Roll!

Purl rows and knit rows with this Punch Pop colorway of Sweet Roll make the mystery project

that will be revealed in the follow pages.

Photos by Charles Voth

Don’t worry about color changes, let Sweet Roll do it for you.

KNITmuch | issue 6


Shadow knitting with Sweet Roll Yarn

Sweet Roll by Premier Yarns is a repeat self-striping

yarn and is ideal for sprucing up shadow knitting

with worry-free color changes.

Shadow knitting is a great way for beginners to do

colorwork without knitting with two colors at the

same time on the same row. It involves knitting 2

rows in one color and then 2 rows in the next color

and then alternating back and forth. The strands of

the unused color are loosely carried up the side of

the project where each color row begins and ends.

When you do this, you basically get stripes. If you

only knit you get garter stitch ridges, and if you

knit one row and purl one row you get stockinette

stripes, like these.

Sweet Roll yarn stacks up to your most imaginative ideas. The Punch

Pop colorway features lavender, bright turquoise, and a rich teal.

Shadow knitting was initially developed in Japan

and roughly translated, it’s known as ‘fine knitting’,

which doesn’t really hint at the optical illusion that it

creates. If you’d like to learn more about this history

of shadow knitting and see more patterns, I’d

recommend this Interweave book Shadow Knitting.

Stripes of 2 rows of each color

If you look a little closer at the pattern, you’ll notice

that on a few of the stripes things look a little wonky.

Perhaps to the untrained eye, it would look like a

mistake. But these irregularities my friend, are what

make shadow knitting what it is. If you look at the

knit fabric surface from any angle that’s shallower

than a perpendicular bird’s eye view, you’ll start to

see some changes in the color and the texture of

the fabric, and what you’re seeing are the shadows

that the alignment of certain stitches creates.

On this scarf, you’ll notice a series of L-shaped

blocks arranged in a motif that’s called a Greek

Key. I made up a simplified version of a Greek Key

because some of them can get quite complex and

have a variety of corners and parallel lines.

38 KNITmuch | issue 6

History of Shadow

Knitting and many

patterns can

be found in this

volume by Vivian


Looking at the scarf at a 30° angle makes the Greek Key pattern jump.

out at you.

To make the shadows, the knitter uses strategically

placed purl stitches that create raised garter stitch

ridges that run one half row off-set of the other

garter stitch ridges. It’s a thing of beauty.

Sweet Roll yarn added a cool element to shadow

knitting in that the color changes add a whole

different dimension to the shadows. I used almost

all of 2 rolls of the same colorway, Punch Pop in

this case. To ensure that you don’t end up with the

same color overlapping, it’s necessary to unwind

all of one color from the center of the roll so that

when you use the yarn from one ball to be on color

of stripe, it always contrasts the yarn from the other

ball. If you use two different colorways together

you won’t have to do this step. In the picture below,

you can see how the colorways “chase” each other

across the length of the scarf, making it look like

there are more than 3 colors in the colorway.

Bird’s eye few of alternating stripes of Sweet Roll Punch Pop makes it

look like you have more than 3 colors.

My wife knit this for me and she really enjoyed

the pattern. It was one that she could take with

her to knit-night because it doesn’t take too much

concentration. She loved the feel of Sweet Roll as

she knit with it, and the end result is a soft scarf with

beautiful drape and a squishy feel to it.

If you’d like to try to knit this scarf and see how

you like shadow knitting, I’ll include the pattern for

this scarf.

finished measurements 8½” x 76¾”


• 2 balls of Sweet Rolls

• US 8 [5mm] needles

Gauge isn’t essential for this project.

Cast on 34 stitches with yarn A (your first ball of

yarn). Place a locking stitch marker around the yarn

going to ball A.

Rows 1-2: K34 in A.

Rows 3-4: K34 in B.

Rows 5-8: Repeat Rows 1-4.

Row 9: K34 in A.

Row 10: P6 in A, k22 in A, p6 in A.

Row 11: K34 in B.

Row 12: K6 in B, p22 in B, k6 in B.

Rows 13-20: Repeat Rows 9-12.

Row 21: K34 in A.

Row 22: P21 in A, k7 in A, p6 in A.

Row 23: K34 in B.

Row 24: K21 in B, p7 in B, k6 in B.

Rows 25-32: Repeat Rows 21-24.

Row 33: K34 in A.

Row 34: P6 in A, k8 in A, p7 in A, k7 in A, p6 in A.

Row 35: K34 in B.

Row 36: K6 in B, p8 in B, k7 in B, p7 in B, k6 in B.

Rows 37-44: Repeat Rows 33-36.

Row 45: K34 in A.

Row 46: P6 in A, k8 in A, p7 in A, k7 in A, p6 in A.

Row 47: K34 in B.

Row 48: K6 in B, p8 in B, k20 in B.

Row 49: K34 in A.

Row 50: P6 in A, k8 in A, p20 in A.

Rows 51-54: Repeat Rows 47-50.

Row 55: K34 in B.

Row 56: K6 in B, p8 in B, k20 in B.

Row 57: K34 in A.

Row 58: P6 in A, k22 in A, p6 in A.

Row 59: K34 in B.

Row 60: K6 in B, p22 in B, k6 in B.

Rows 61-68: Repeat Rows 57-60.

Repeat Rows 5 to 68 until you’ve reached desired

length minus ½”.

Knit 4 rows. Bind off purlwise.

Photos by Charles Voth

KNITmuch | issue 6


Keep people wondering how you

made this optical illusion with

only 2 stitches and 2 balls of yarn.

Chart for shadow knitting Greek Key scarf

40 KNITmuch | issue 6

Knitting gradients with self-striping yarn

Self-striping yarn became popular with the quick

growth, almost a movement, in sock knitting.

Gradient yarns have become popular with the

development of shawls and stoles and their visibility

in the knitting community.

Holding two strands of Sweet Roll together with staggered placement

of the stripes opens up a whole realm of possible gradients.

I chose two colorways of Sweet Roll, Caramel Swirl

and Cappuccino Pop to blend together to create

a gradient. The warm cream and camel tones of

Cappuccino Pop coordinate well with the mocha,

beige, and cocoa browns of Caramel Swirl. The

warm gray in the Cappuccino also creates a nice

contrast and complements the brown family

without making all the colors muddy when they

come together. This way of holding strands together

rids the knitting of stark stripes and makes the color

transitions more gradual.

You can see in my knit swatch above, that a

gradient is created when the different colors

combine. This provides depth and a tweedy or

marled look to the fabric, which I achieved by

holding the two yarns together, but starting one of

the colors partway through its self-striping pattern.

Other yarns are spun this way deliberately but with

Sweet Roll, you have control of the colors you want

to blend.

Some of you may be wondering what this knit

item is? Well, it was supposed to be a blanket,

but it ended up being a swatch! As I designer, I

don’t like to think that I failed (although, there

are days…), but this was a learning experience! I

learned that mitered squares work better when knit

in garter stitch because the row to stitch gauge is

almost equal. In stockinette stitch, stitches are little

rectangles. Increases quickly throw off the symmetry

of a square, so I couldn’t get my math right here.

This square will be frogged and I’ll go back to the

sketching board with calculator and graph paper!

Make your own marled gradients by blending two different colorways

of Sweet Rolls together.

Photos by Charles Voth

My not-so-hot attempt at a mitered square blanket blending my own

gradients. The gradients are fine, the “square”? Not so much.

In the meantime, if you’d like to use 2 different

colorways of Sweet Rolls to knit a mitered square,

I’ll refer you to an excellent resource for mitered

squares. While Nicolette makes lots of small squares

and sews them together, I would start with my

two balls of Sweet Rolls held together and make

4 big squares to show the gradients changing as

the squares grew, then I would sew the 4 squares

together to make a diamond out of the gradient

color changes.

KNITmuch | issue 6



things I learned from my knitted

swatch other than gauge

I embarked on a project to knit

a mitered square blanket out of

Sweet Roll yarn, but I wanted to

do it in stockinette stitch instead

of the traditional garter stitch.

Well, there’s a reason why most

mitered squares are done in

garter stitch. It has to do with

the number of rows versus the

number of stitches you get.

In garter stitch each ridge is

comprised of two rows of knitting

and the ratio is almost exactly

1 garter stitch ridge to 1 stitch,

which makes squares possible.

In stockinette stitch, the ratio

is closer to 4 rows to every 3

stitches, so mitered squares that

are decreased or increased at the

same rate as garter stitch squares

end up looking like diamonds.

I did some math and thought it

was right, but I ended up with

a shape that reminds me of an

awning on a Who-ville house

(from Dr. Seuss’ How The Grinch

Stole Christmas). Needless to say,

this swatch is going to the “frog

pond” to be unraveled.

But not all is lost. I learned

two other things from my


1) I learned that with chunky

yarn, or at least with 2 strands

of yarn held double, I don’t like

lifted increases. Lifted increases

are where you lift a leg of a stitch

from one or more rows below

the current row and knit into

it to create a new stitch. For a

right-leaning increase you work

into the first leg of the stitch one

row below the loop on the lefthand

needle. For a left-leaning

increase, you work into the

second leg of the stitch two rows

below the loop just knit onto the

right-hand needle.

I decided to do twisted yarn

over increases.

Twisted yarn over increases are

made by adding yarn overs on

the right-side rows and purling

into the yarn-overs on the

wrong-side and twisting the

yarn over stitch. To do this, knit

to where you want the first of a

paired increase to be, yarn-over,

knit to where the next increase

is to be, yarn-over, and continue.

On the return row, at the first

yarn-over, change the orientation

of the loop on the left-hand

needle (if necessary) so that the

first leg is at the front and the

second leg is at the back, then

purl into the back leg. Purl to the

next yarn-over and change the

orientation of the loop on the

left-hand needle (if necessary)

so that the first leg is at the back

of the needle and the second

leg is at the front, then purl into

the front leg. These two different

maneuvers twist the stitch in

opposite directions, which

mirrors the increases to give a

balanced look.

I shine a light on the twisted yarn-over paired increases.

42 KNITmuch | issue 6

2) I learned I like the look of twisted stitches where

the garter stitch edging butts up against the

stockinette section. To make the twist, I used the

last garter stitch and the first stockinette stitch to

make the twist, which makes the stockinette st cross

over the garter stitch bump. To do this on a practice

swatch of your own, try the following.

Swatch instructions

Cast on 20 sts.

Rows 1- 6: Knit.

Row 7: Knit.

Row 8: K4, P12, K4.

Row 9: K3, with RH needle lift the left front leg of

2nd st on LH needle and tug open, remove

RH and reinsert as if to knit and K1, then slip

first st on LH needle purlwise, removing both

stitches from LH needle, k10, remove first st

off LH needle and pinch with fingers from left

hand, slip next st on LH needle purlwise, return

pinched loop to LH needle and knit it, K3.

Row 10: K4, P12, K4.

Repeat Rows 9 and 10 for the pattern to desired length.

Knit 6 rows, bind off purlwise.

Let me know if you try the scarf, or either of my

discoveries. I do hope you try Sweet Roll yarn and

that you’ll share with us what you knit with it.

Right-leaning mix twisted stitches lay the knit stitch over top of the

garter stitch ridge.

These left-leaning twisted stitches create a unique transition between

stockinette and garter stitch panels.

Charles Voth

KNITmuch | issue 6


Evermore yarn

Michelle Nguyen

The care label from Evermore yarn with the recommended hook and

needle sizes.

Evermore yarn from Red Heart!

Evermore is a really interesting yarn to work with. It’s

a single strand of roving-like yarn with a gentle twist.

It’s lovely and soft with a beautiful blooming halo of

fuzziness around each strand and knitted garment.

Evermore is the perfect yarn to work with heading

into the cold weather.

The fiber content of Evermore really adds to the

beauty of the yarn itself. This is one of the yarns

from Red Heart that has 20% wool content. The

rest of the yarn is acrylic, but that wool content

means you must take a little more care when

washing your garment.

The care instructions on the label suggest hand

washing in cold water and dry flat. No ironing

or bleaching, and only have it professionally dry

cleaned. The professionally dry cleaned part gave

me a little laugh because it begs the question, are

there unprofessional dry cleaners? A black market

of rogue dry cleaners who have rebelled against the


Come to think of it, I’ve never had any of my knits

professionally (or unprofessionally) dry cleaned. Has

anyone else? I would be very interested to know

your experience if you’re willing to share in the


Getting back to the yarn construction, I mentioned

that Evermore is a roving-like yarn. What does this

mean? The yarn is very natural feeling and has an

unspun look. There are many great benefits to this

style of yarn, but a couple of important points to

know before you start.

The stitch definition is going to be subtle. If you’re

doing a very intricate stitch pattern, all your that

work may not stand out as much as you would

like. This is also great news for beginner knitters

who haven’t quite managed to get their tension

absolutely perfect. While this yarn may not make

your stitch pattern stand out, it will make any issues

with tension or imperfect stitches less noticeable.

In an article, I talked about loft and how it holds in

heat. Evermore has lots of lofts to keep in warm air.

Two skeins of Evermore in the colors Cabana (left) and Cotton Candy (right)

44 KNITmuch | issue 6

Photos by Michelle Nguyen

One thing you’ll have to make sure you’re paying

attention to is your tension. The yarn spreads out

on the stitches, so if your tension is very tight,

you’re going to split your stitch when you go to

knit it. The needle will pass right through the center

of your yarn. Evermore has very little twist to stop

it from happening, so you need to be mindful. It’s

much easier to avoid splitting your stitch when your

tension is generous.

Carefully choosing your needle type will also aid

in this endeavor. Blunt needles are less likely to go

through your working yarn than sharp ones. At the

very least, you’re more likely to notice the needle

going through the yarn.

These are just a few general tips and my initial

thoughts on Evermore yarn from Red Heart. It’s

always useful to know a little bit about how the

yarn feels before planning your project. If you need

special needles, or know you have to have a loose

tension, you can make sure you’re doing those

things right from the start of the project rather than

halfway through.

See how the first stitch is split on the needle? Also, the rest of the

stitches are wider than you would think. Be mindful when knitting with

any roving or roving-like yarn.

Knitting Snowy Arm

Warmers pattern

using Red Heart

Evermore yarn

Is there such a thing as too many arm warmers? I

think not! They’re the perfect accessory for keeping

warm, especially if you’re having issues with…

ahem… personal trips to the Bahamas. They’re easy

to roll down or strip off at a moment’s notice.

If you’re the type that’s always cold, you can easily

throw these on over a long sleeve shirt and not

worry about the fashion repercussions of wearing

two sweaters.

The Snowy Arm Warmers pattern was originally

written for Shimmer yarn, which is a medium weight.

Evermore is a super bulky weight so the pattern

needed to be adjusted a little bit.

The finished object photo from the Red Heart pattern itself!

KNITmuch | issue 6


Given the amount of loft in this yarn, I didn’t have to

adjust the weight quite as much as I needed to. The

recommended needle size for Evermore is a US 11

[8mm], but I like my fabric knit a little more densely

than that. I chose a US 8 [5mm] to adjust this

pattern and when I cast on the number of stitches

for the smallest size, the top measured 8″.

I continued to knit this pattern as per the

instructions. A change I would make is to not do all

the increases. When I followed the instructions and

made increases every 8th row, the arm warmers

were longer than the pattern called for. The size I

was knitting should have ended at 13″ and mine

ended up being 18″. My suggestion would be to

either do the increases closer together or not to

make as many. The top ended up measuring 12½“,

which is quite wide.

The unseamed arm warmer, after being blocked flat.

The Snowy Arm Warmers pattern has a seam up

the side, so ensure you read the pattern thoroughly

before you start it (unlike a certain writer we all

know). I was so very close to just casting these on in

the round because that is how I assumed they would

be knit. They’re knit flat and it makes perfect sense

why if you read the pattern. When seaming up the

edge, you have the option to leave a thumb hole.

You just don’t seam an inch of the edge and voila!

You can pop your thumb through there! I highly

suggest doing this, because the wrist warmers will

creep away from your hands if you have nothing to

anchor them in place.

The thumb hole is created by leaving an inch of the seam open and

completing the seam above and below it. I chose to do it an inch

below the ribbing.

Seaming is usually something everyone tries to

avoid, mostly because it’s seen as difficult. If you

have the right tools and good instructions, seaming

is not something of which to be afraid.

I find seaming a cathartic ritual at the end of a project.

It’s like making all my hard work a reality, especially

when it’s something like a sweater knit in pieces.

My all-time favorite stitch for seaming is the

mattress stitch. It creates a seam that’s invisible

(when done properly). I think the best seams are

the ones that provide structure for garments, but

cannot be seen. This instructional video will guide

you if this isn’t a stitch you’re familiar with.

Even with the adjustments, I really found the Snowy

Arm Warmers pattern to be an enjoyable knit. The

flat pattern is easy to navigate and the finished

product is so lovely and luxurious. These arm

warmers are lengthy, and slouchy, which is perfect

for a snowy day inside reading a good book with

some hot cocoa.

46 KNITmuch | issue 6

1 tip to add interest to a simple reversible knitted scarf

In order to further test Evermore

yarn out, I knit one of my favorite

patterns; a 1×1 ribbed scarf. I

started knitting this pattern when

I was a beginner knitter because

I love reversible knits. With

something like a sweater, no one

is going to see the wrong side,

but scarves are very reversible.

I’m the kind of person who would

walk around trying not to disturb

my scarf so the wrong side flips

out. Needless to say, reversible

garments feed my OCD.

This is the simplest pattern to

do, and it really helps you get

a handle on what the yarn

feels like. When I first picked

up Evermore and my needles, I

misread the suggested needle

size. I thought it was US 8

instead of 8mm. Right out of the

gate I wasn’t knitting with the

recommended needle size.

This turned out to be rather

serendipitous because I preferred

to knit Evermore with a smaller

gauge needle. The larger gauge

felt a little too airy for my liking,

but that could very well be a

design aspect you’re looking for!

Don’t take my word as law, if

you’re looking to knit a garment

with more ventilation, a larger

needle size will be more useful

to you. I did knit swatches with

the recommended size and

the smaller size I was using. It’s

always interesting to see how the

yarn looks using different gauges.

When placed side by side as in

the middle photo, you can pick

and choose the one you prefer.

The reversible scarf in all its glory!

My two gauge swatches, the one on the

left is made with the recommended needle

size US 11 and the one on the right is made

with US 8. Both swatches are made with 20

stitches cast on.

My swatch made with two different colors,

Cabana and Cotton Candy

Another aspect of Evermore that

was portrayed beautifully in this

scarf pattern was the striping I

tried to achieve. I knit two rows

of ribbing, then switched the

color and carried the yarn up

the side of the scarf. I used two

different colors of Evermore that

had similar tones in them. The

color patterns within each skein

of yarn were so busy it made this

scarf very colorful.

It’s rather difficult to see where

the stripes are. Keep this in mind

if you’re thinking about knitting

a specific pattern. I usually knit

this pattern with a solid and a

variegated yarn that complement

each other, but I have seen it

done with two variegated yarns

before and it turned out okay.

The color repeats were shorter

than I anticipated so it made the

overall color effect a little more

like a Jackson Pollock painting.

This scarf is an excellent display

piece though. I know there are

quite a few visual learners out

there who need to see things in

order for the concept to really

click in their minds. When I talk

about choosing the right pattern

and the right yarn this is what I

am taking about. This scarf and

the difference between it and the

swatches pictured are excellent

visual examples of the different

ways you can pair yarns and

what an impact it makes on your

finished product!

Michelle Nguyen

KNITmuch | issue 6


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48 KNITmuch | issue 6

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KNIT much K, is to


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KNITmuch | issue 6


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Standards & Guidelines For Crochet and Knitting •

Standard Yarn Weight System

Standard Yarn Weight System

Categories of yarn, gauge ranges, and recommended needle and hook sizes

Categories of yarn, gauge ranges, and recommended needle and hook sizes

Yarn Weight

Yarn Symbol Weight &

Symbol Category &

Category Names


Type of


Type Yarns of in Fingering, 10 count

Yarns Category in

crochet 10 count thread

Category crochet thread

Knit Gauge





Range* in


Stockinette 33–40**



Stitch to


Stitch to

4 inches

4 inches















Range Range



Needle Needle U.S. U.S.

Size Size Range Range



in Single

Crochet to to

4 4 inch inch


Sock, Fingering,

Fingering, Baby











Sport, Baby











DK, Light

Light Worsted













Worsted, Afghan,

Afghan, Aran











Chunky, Craft,

Craft, Rug











Bulky, Roving


000 000 to 1to 1 1 to 13to 3 3 to 35 to 5 5 to 57 to 7 7 to 97 to 9 9 to 11 9 to 11 11 to 17 11 to 17

32–42 32–42

double double




1.6–1.4 mm



Hook in in Metric

Regular hook



Size Range

2.25 2.25 mm mm


Hook Hook U.S. U.S. Size Size

Range Range

Steel*** Steel***

6, 7, 6, 87, 8

Regular Regular

hook hook



Standards & Guidelines For Crochet and Knitting •

21–32 21–32

sts sts


mm mm

16–20 16–20

sts sts

3.5–4.5 3.5–4.5

mm mm

12–17 12–17

sts sts

4.5–5.5 4.5–5.5

mm mm

B–1 B–1 to E–4 to E–4 E–4 E–4 to 7to 7 7 to 7 I–9 to I–9

11–14 11–14

sts sts

5.5–6.5mm 5.5–6.5mm

I–9 I–9

to to

K–10 K–10 1 ⁄2 1 ⁄2

8–11 8–11

sts sts

6.5–9 6.5–9

mm mm

K–10 K–10 1 ⁄2 1 ⁄2

to M-13 to M-13




Jumbo, Roving


6 sts

6 sts





12.75 mm

8–12.75 12.75 mm




mm and








to Q




6 sts 6 sts

and and

fewer fewer

15 mm 15 mm

and and

larger larger

* GUIDELINES ONLY: The above reflect the most commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for specific yarn categories.

* GUIDELINES ONLY: The above reflect the most commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for specific yarn categories.

** Lace weight yarns are usually knitted or crocheted on larger needles and hooks to create lacy, openwork patterns. Accordingly, a

gauge ** Lace range weight is difficult yarns to are determine. usually knitted Always or follow crocheted the gauge on larger stated needles in your and pattern. hooks to create lacy, openwork patterns. Accordingly, a

gauge range is difficult to determine. Always follow the gauge stated in your pattern.

*** Steel crochet hooks are sized differently from regular hooks--the higher the number, the smaller the hook, which is the reverse

of *** regular Steel hook crochet sizing. hooks are sized differently from regular hooks--the higher the number, the smaller the hook, which is the reverse

of regular hook sizing.

This Standards & Guidelines booklet and downloadable symbol artwork are available at:

This Standards & Guidelines booklet and downloadable symbol artwork are available at:








to Q










KNIT much .com K, is to

Standard abbreviations & terms

alt = alternate

approx = approximately

beg = begin(ning)

BO= bind off

CC = contrast color

ch = chain

cm = centimetre(s)

cn = cable needle

CO = cast on

cont = continue, continuing

dc = double crochet

dec = decrease(s), decreasing

dpn = double-pointed needle(s)

foll = following

g = gram(s)

inc = increase(s), increasing

in(s) = inch(es)

k = knit

kf&b or kfb = knit into front and back of st (increase)

ktbl = Knit through the back loop.

k2tog = knit 2 sts tog (right-leaning decrease)

k3tog = knit 3 sts together (double right-leaning


M = marker

m = metre(s)

M1 = Make 1 stitch: pick up the horizontal strand

between 2 stitches from front to back and knit

it tbl (lifted increase)

MC = main color

mm = millimetre(s)

oz = ounce(s)

p = purl

p2tog = purl 2 sts tog (decrease)

patt = pattern

pfb = purl into front and back of stitch (increase)

ptbl = knit through the back loop.

pm = place marker

psso = slip 1 stitch together knitwise, knit 1, then

pass slipped stitches over

p2sso = slip 2 stitches together knitwise, knit 1,

then pass slipped stitches over

RS = right side

rem = remain(ing)

rep = repeat

rev = reverse

rnd = round

sc = single crochet

sl = slip

skp = slip one st, knit next st, pass slipped st over

knit st (dec)

ssk = slip, slip, knit: slip 2 sts knitwise, 1 at a time,

insert left-hand needle into front of both sts

and knit them tog (left-leaning decrease)

sssk = Slip next three stitches individually, knitwise.

Insert tip of left needle from front to back into

the fronts of these three stitches and knit them

together (double left-leaning decrease)

st(s) = stitch(es)

St st = stocking stitch

tbl = through back loop

tog = together

tr = treble crochet

WS = wrong side

yfwd = bringing yarn forward to create a yarn

over when working into next st(s)

yo = yarn over


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