3 months ago

Viva Brighton Issue #67 September 2018

e x c e p t i o n a l

e x c e p t i o n a l quality at affordable prices Bringing you the finest, most delicious artisanal local and international gourmet cheeses and other dairy products, charcuterie, preserves, condiments, pickles, seafood, ice creams, chocolates, biscuits, olive oils, vinegars, ready meals, drinks, snacks and much more to excite the taste buds 29 trafalgar street brighton bn1 4ed telephone 01273 606001 CELEBRATE THE FESTIVE SEASON IN OUR STATE ROOMS Enjoy a real sense of occasion in our grand State Rooms, with oppulent décor showcasing a rich arts history. Christmas lunches and dinners from £35pp for 10 - 90 guests Book now for 17 November - 21 December Tel 01243 818258 | Email West Dean College of Arts and Conservation, West Dean, Chichester, West Sussex PO18 0QZ

FOOD ............................ Bison Beer Craft bar snacks When did bar snacks get so classy? I remember when a pint at the pub was accompanied by a packet of cheese & onion crisps and possibly a pickled egg, but that was a long time ago. We’re all a bit more civilised now and our taste buds are too. It’s fitting, then, that Brighton’s craft beer pioneers should up the ante on the bar snacks. Bison’s new ‘bar, kitchen and hideout’ has recently opened in North Road, with the kitchen part of the equation delivered by Humble Plates, who’ve found a home for their ‘modern campfire cooking’ in the revamped premises. If these plates are humble, I can’t imagine what they’d call fancy. There are 18 choices on the menu, including duck leg croquettes with Szechuan yoghurt; pork belly with chorizo, black pudding, potatoes and fried egg, and grilled fennel with orange, almonds and lavender vinegar. The closest thing to a pickled egg is the scotch egg with chorizo mayo. The place has been made over in unmistakable Bison style, too. There are traces of Dan Walters’ distinctive Bison branding both inside and out, with creatures from his bespoke wallpaper escaping to the outside walls. There’s a cosy basement lounge (the hideout, available for private hire), curb side tables outside the ground floor bar, and an airy upstairs. Dan, Dale and I take a booth upstairs and consider our options. Each dish has a suggested pairing with one of the 14 keg beers on offer, and there’s a food and beer tasting flight for the indecisive. Dazzled by the choice, we go for flame-grilled English peas in the pod; paneer, miso and spring onions; fries with chives, cheese and truffle oil plus the optional trio of BeFries sauces on the side. We also order BBQ ribs with BeerBQ sauce; a royale with cheese; Hoisin fried cauliflower with tofu and peanuts; gin-cured salmon tacos with avocado and pickled cucumber, and macaroni cheese croquettes with truffle mayo. It’s all pretty tasty but, for my money (£4.50), the mac & cheese morsels are the star attraction. Made with manchego, mozzarella, gouda, two types of cheddar and parmesan, rolled in breadcrumbs and fried to a golden crisp, they are five-star finger food. Priced between £3.50-£7.50 a plate, our food comes in at £46 between the three of us, which is a little more than I’d usually pay for my bar snacks. That said, we have definitely overdone it (there’s just enough room left on our table for drinks) and they don’t make cheese & onion crisps with a blend of six cheeses and truffle mayo. Yet. Lizzie Lower 103 North Road. Kitchen open 12pm-10pm Monday to Saturday and 12pm-5pm Sundays ....79....

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