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Fah Thai Magazine Sep-Oct 2018

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ARTISANAL EATS<br />

Above<br />

Old-school method of<br />

packing tea by hand<br />

at Pek Sin Choon Tea<br />

Shop in Chinatown.<br />

A variety of<br />

hand-made steam<br />

dumplings at Jalan<br />

Kukoh Food Centre.<br />

Below<br />

Mr. Peh Ching Her,<br />

a fourth generation<br />

owner of Pek Sin<br />

Choon Tea Shop in<br />

Chinatown.<br />

stalls. “They are a breath of fresh<br />

air in our ecological food system.<br />

While many of them are trying<br />

to perpetuate the old-school<br />

eats of Singapore, many of them<br />

(the food entrepreneurs) develop<br />

something entirely new, that<br />

somehow maintain crucial links to<br />

the past.”<br />

Our four days in Singapore<br />

confirmed the fact that the city<br />

is exorbitantly pricey. Museums<br />

here do not offer a ‘free day’ of<br />

the week, and admission can cost<br />

up to S$26 per adult. Taking a<br />

taxi can produce a real sweat,<br />

especially if you are hurrying into<br />

the city centre while their smart<br />

road-congestion managing system<br />

or ERP (Electronic Road Pricing)<br />

ticking up the metre for the final<br />

cost. But when it comes to food,<br />

we are pretty impressed. There are<br />

a lot of great and delicious foods at<br />

amazing values. And we are talking<br />

about real artisanal and hearty fare<br />

that is available to everyone.<br />

The curry puff as a snack well<br />

represents Singapore with a mixture<br />

of Malay and Chinese characteristics.<br />

Spices came from its trading<br />

background, when its fragrant<br />

migration dominated its maritime<br />

ports. At Wang Wang Crispy Curry<br />

Puff stall at the Old Airport Hawker<br />

Center - perhaps the oldest part<br />

of Singapore - the puff pastry gets<br />

rolled by hand, stuffed with fillings<br />

and then speedily crimped before<br />

being deep-fried. The crispy, flaky<br />

and very yummy treat will cost you<br />

just about S$1.20.<br />

But if you are up for more,<br />

like chunkier pieces of chicken<br />

and potatoes, or creamy custard<br />

and luscious durian puffs, head<br />

to the air-conditioned Soon Soon<br />

Huat on East Coast Road in Katong<br />

area. A daughter now continues<br />

her grandmother’s recipes with<br />

a modern flair. A coffee or tea set<br />

with a signature handmade puff<br />

will cost you just S$2.60.<br />

The obsession with handmade<br />

edibles continues with many things<br />

Above<br />

Deep fried sesame balls at one of the<br />

hawker centres in Singapore.<br />

Below<br />

Singapore old-school tarts in local<br />

varieties and shapes.<br />

Above<br />

Curry puffs are like smaller pies filled<br />

with the goodness of a curry or other<br />

filling variation.<br />

Below<br />

Assorted old-school baked goodies at the<br />

Chinatown Tai Chong Kok Confectionery<br />

(Hue Kee) in Alexandra Village.<br />

There are a lot of great and<br />

delicious foods at amazing<br />

values. And we are talking<br />

about real artisanal and<br />

hearty fare that is available<br />

to everyone.<br />

48<br />

49

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