Eatdrink #73 September/October 2018
The LOCAL food and drink magazine serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007
The LOCAL food and drink magazine serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007
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Issue <strong>#73</strong> | <strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />
eatdrink<br />
The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />
A11 th<br />
N N<br />
I V E R S A RY<br />
I S S U E<br />
Craft<br />
Farmacy<br />
A Genuine<br />
Taste of Place<br />
in London<br />
FEATURING<br />
Eddington’s of Exeter<br />
Food Champion James Eddington<br />
Alton Farms Estate Winery<br />
Pioneers of “Huron Shores”<br />
Forest City Cookbook<br />
From Farm to Table to Page<br />
Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007<br />
www.eatdrink.ca
THE BACON AND ALE TRAIL<br />
IS A WELL ROUNDED MEAL<br />
IF YOU COUNT BARLEY<br />
AS A VEGETABLE<br />
Bacon and ale are a combination made in heaven,<br />
includes 5 tastes for just $30.<br />
-<br />
Stratford Tourism Alliance at 47 Downie Street.<br />
visitstratford.ca
eatdrink<br />
The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />
eatdrinkmagazine<br />
@eatdrinkmag<br />
eatdrinkmag<br />
eatdrink.ca<br />
Think Global. Read Local.<br />
Publisher<br />
Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />
Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca<br />
Food Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />
Copy Editor Kym Wolfe<br />
Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />
Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />
Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />
Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca<br />
Terry-Lynn “TL” Sim – TL@eatdrink.ca<br />
Finances<br />
Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca<br />
Graphics<br />
Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy<br />
Writers<br />
Jane Antoniak, Gerry Blackwell,<br />
Darin Cook, Andrew Coppolino,<br />
Gary Killops, Bryan Lavery,<br />
George Macke, Chris McDonell,<br />
Tracy Turlin<br />
Photographers Steve Grimes, Nick Lavery,<br />
Brogan McNabb<br />
Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349<br />
Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6<br />
Website<br />
City Media<br />
Printing<br />
Sportswood Printing<br />
OUR COVER<br />
London’s Craft Farmacy<br />
is owned by chef Andrew<br />
Wolwowicz, Jess Jazey-<br />
Spoelstra (of The River<br />
Room & North Moore<br />
Catering) and Harmen<br />
Spoelstra.<br />
Photo by Alieska Robles<br />
(alieskarobles.com)<br />
© <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Inc. and the writers.<br />
All rights reserved.<br />
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of 240,000 copies in print. The views or opinions expressed in the<br />
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Contents<br />
Issue <strong>#73</strong> | <strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />
The Harvest Issue<br />
Publisher’s Notes<br />
The Harvest Issue<br />
Eat Fresh, Eat Local<br />
By CHRIS McDONELL<br />
6<br />
Restaurants<br />
Food Champion James Eddington<br />
The Chef/Owner of Eddington’s of Exeter<br />
By BRYAN LAVERY<br />
8<br />
A Genuine Taste of Place<br />
London’s Craft Farmacy<br />
By BRYAN LAVERY<br />
12<br />
Road Trips<br />
Hammer Time!<br />
Hamilton: A Heaven for Food Lovers<br />
By AMANDA STANCATI<br />
18<br />
Wine<br />
Pioneers of “Huron Shores”<br />
Alton Farms Estate Winery<br />
By GARY KILLOPS<br />
24<br />
Spirits<br />
Taking it Slow<br />
Willibald Farm Distillery<br />
By ANDREW COPPOLINO<br />
28<br />
Beer<br />
Seasonal Sensations<br />
Ciders and Sours<br />
By GEORGE MACKE<br />
31<br />
8<br />
51<br />
58<br />
12<br />
24<br />
The BUZZ<br />
Culinary Community Notes<br />
34<br />
Theatre<br />
World Curious, London Proud<br />
Grand Theatre: Preview<br />
By JANE ANTONIAK<br />
48<br />
Music<br />
Change of Season<br />
Upcoming Musical Highlights<br />
By GERRY BLACKWELL<br />
51<br />
Recipes<br />
From Farm to Table to Page<br />
Forest City Cookbook<br />
Review & Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN<br />
55<br />
Books<br />
The Great Immigrant Road Trip<br />
Buttermilk Graffiti<br />
Review by DARIN COOK<br />
60<br />
The Lighter Side<br />
Pescatarian Tales<br />
By REBECCA ST. PIERRE<br />
62<br />
62<br />
31<br />
56<br />
28
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
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6 | <strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
Publisher’s Notes<br />
The Harvest Issue<br />
Eat Fresh, Eat Local<br />
By CHRIS McDONELL<br />
There is no better time or place to<br />
appreciate the bounty of our country<br />
than autumn in Ontario. Our farmers’<br />
markets are especially chock-a-block<br />
full of beautiful fruits and vegetables, and if<br />
you like to eat fresh and eat local, get out there.<br />
To assist your efforts, we’ve compiled a list<br />
of regional farmers’ markets that are looking<br />
forward to seeing you. Meet a farmer and thank<br />
her or him for the bag of goodies you’re<br />
taking home with you.<br />
Of course, while I do like<br />
to think of this as harvest<br />
season, I’m aware that this<br />
is not technically true for<br />
many of our local farmers<br />
and producers. For some, their primary harvest<br />
happened months ago, such as the asparagus<br />
and strawberry growers, and for others,<br />
Thanksgiving comes much too early for a true<br />
day of rest. Their fields won’t be harvested until<br />
later in the fall, bringing in much of our squash,<br />
cabbage and carrots. For those raising livestock,<br />
seasonality may or may not be a factor in their<br />
operation. It might be “turkey season” but the<br />
dairy business runs 365 days a year.<br />
Global warming is having an effect on<br />
farming, perhaps most negatively through<br />
“extreme” weather, but a longer growing season<br />
may be a fringe benefit in our locale. Some<br />
businesses have taken big — and prescient —<br />
steps to be less weather-dependent. In Strathroy,<br />
Jo and Pauline Slegers started building<br />
greenhouses 30 years ago and became certified<br />
organic in 2004. Today, Slegers Living Organic<br />
Greens sells 30 different products year-round,<br />
from tender young micro greens to mature salad<br />
greens, lettuce and herbs. Packed still growing<br />
in soil for better taste and a longer shelf life,<br />
you can have your own harvest days with a little<br />
snip. Available at many retailers such as Remark<br />
Fresh Market and through distributors like On<br />
the Move Organics, you can also buy direct at<br />
their farm gate (slegersgreens.com).<br />
The commitment to using local, fresh<br />
products is shared by two restaurants that<br />
we are profiling in this issue. Eddington’s<br />
of Exeter and Craft Farmacy, with chefs<br />
James Eddington and Andrew Wolwowicz<br />
respectively, offer seasonal menus that reflect<br />
our region, while creatively expressing their<br />
culinary talents in unique ways. I’m certain<br />
our readers will enjoy both stories.<br />
Our wine column features Alton Farms<br />
Estate Winery in<br />
Lambton County,<br />
where harvest<br />
season is taken<br />
extremely seriously.<br />
The Huron<br />
Shores wine region<br />
is starting to flourish and this is a great story<br />
about working with our climate, soil and local<br />
challenges to make great wine. I especially<br />
appreciate Alton Farms’ commitment to sustainable<br />
practices.<br />
For over a year now, London has been<br />
excited about Alieska Robles’ Forest City<br />
Cookbook project. The book is now out, and<br />
it’s a show-stopping epic that is both a great<br />
collection of recipes from London’s top chefs<br />
and a thoughtful tribute to local farmers and<br />
agriculture. I hasten to add that the book is<br />
gorgeous to look at too. We’re pleased to share<br />
a couple of recipes in this issue, and a bonus<br />
recipe online from “our” Bryan Lavery, <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />
Food Editor and Writer at Large, who also<br />
contributed a foreword, a couple of recipes,<br />
and other writing to the book. Congratulations<br />
Alieska and your crew for an accomplishment<br />
that exceeded our high expectations.<br />
There’s plenty more to enjoy in the<br />
following pages. This issue marks our 11th<br />
anniversary, and I’m amazed at how there is<br />
still so much happening that we can never<br />
keep up with all of it. We’re glad for the<br />
challenge though. Thanks for reading.<br />
Peace,
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
<strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 7<br />
Local Farmers’ Markets, from Amherstburg to Woodstock<br />
Name Address Online Days & Hours Closing Day<br />
Amherstburg Farmers‘ Market 7860 County Road 20, outside Malden Community<br />
Cultural Centre, Amherstburg amherstburgfarmersmarket.com SAT 8:30am – 1:30pm OCT 19<br />
Bayfield Farmers‘ Market Clan Gregor Square, Bayfield bayfieldfarmersmarket.com FRI 3pm – 7pm OCT 13<br />
Belle River Farmers‘ Market Optimist Park, 705 Notre Dame St., Belle River fb.com/belleriverfarmersmarket SUN 10am – 2pm OCT 7<br />
Chatham-Kent Farmers‘ Market Highway 2, 9877 Longwoods Rd., Chatham chathamfarmersmarket.ca WED 9am –5pm Open All Year<br />
Covent Garden Farmers’ wMarket 130 King Street, London coventmarket.com THUR 8 – 2, SAT 8 – 1 DEC 29<br />
Downtown Windsor Farmers‘ Market Pelissier and Maiden Lane, Windsor dwfm.ca SAT 8m – 1pm OCT 6<br />
Downtown Woodstock Farmers‘ Market Downtown Museum Square, Woodstock bit.ly/2wN05xF THUR 11am – 4pm OCT 4<br />
Exeter Farmers‘ Market 1-35 MacNaughton Drive, Exeter fb.com/exeterfarmersmarket/ THUR 3am – 7pm OCT 4<br />
Forest Farmers‘ & Artisan Market 14 King Street, Forest bit.ly/2PxDI6R FRI 8am – 1pm OCT 6<br />
Goderich Farmers‘ Market Downtown Market Square, Goderich fb.com/FarmersMarketGoderichBIA/ SAT 8am – 1pm OCT 6<br />
Grand Bend Farmers‘ Market 1 Main Street, Grand Bend fb.com/GrandBendMarket/ WED 8am – 1pm OCT 3<br />
Horton Farmers‘ Market 10–16 Manitoba Street, St. Thomas hortonfarmersmarket.ca SAT 8am – noon NOV 3<br />
Ilderton Farmers‘ Market 92 Ilderton Road, Ilderton bit.ly/2oACix5 SAT 8am – noon SEPT 22<br />
Kingsville Farmers‘ Market 28 Division Street South, Kingsville kingsvillefarmersmarket.com SAT 10am – 2pm OCT 13<br />
Leamington Farmers‘ Market Leamington Fairgrounds, 194 Erie St. N., Leamington fb.com/LeamingtonFarmersMarket SAT 9am – 2pm Open All Year<br />
Masonville Farmers‘ Market 1680 Richmond St., London masonvillemarket.com FRI 8am – 1pm OCT 12<br />
Old South Farmers‘ Market Storm Stayed Brewing Co., 169 Wharncliffe Rd. S., London fb.com/oldsouthfarmersmarket/ THURS 4pm – 7pm SEPT 27<br />
Petrolia Farmers‘ Market 369 Fletcher St., behind the Library (Main St.), Petrolia bit.ly/2wHsllb SAT 7:30am – noon OCT 6<br />
Point Edward Moonlight Farmers‘ Market Next to Michigan Ave. (under the Bluewater Bridge),<br />
Point Edward bit.ly/2Q2GzFT THURS 4pm – 8pm OCT 4<br />
Port Rowan Farmers‘ Market Lions Pavilion — Sea Queen Rd., Port Rowan fb.com/PortRowanFarmersMarket/ FRI 3pm – 6Ppm OCT 5<br />
Sarnia Farmers‘ Market Corner of Proctor & Ontario St., Sarnia fb.com/SarniaFarmersMarket/ WED, SAT 7am – 1pm Open All Year<br />
Simcoe Farmers‘ Market 172 South Drive, Simcoe fb.com/SimcoeMarket/ THURS 9am – 4pm Open All Year<br />
St. Marys Farmers‘ Market 116 Jones St. E., St. Marys stmarysfarmersmarket.ca SAT 8am – noon Open All Year<br />
Stratford Farmers‘ Market 353 McCarthy Road, Rotary Complex/Agriplex, Stratford bit.ly/2NGJimT SAT 7am – noon Open All Year<br />
Stratford Slow Food Market Market Place Drive, Stratford fb.com/StratfordSundayMarket/ SUN 10am – 2pm Open All Year<br />
The Market at Western Fair District 900 King St., London westernfairdistrict.com/market SAT, SUN 8am – 3pm Open All Year<br />
Tillsonburg Farmers‘ Market 41 Bridge Street West, Tillsonburg fb.com/tillsonburgfarmersmarket/ SAT 8am – noon NOV 10<br />
Trails End Farmers‘ Market 4370 Dundas St East, London fb.com/trailsendfarmersmarket/ FRI 8am – 1pm Open All Year<br />
Waterford Farmers‘ Market Corner of Alice St. & St. James St. S., Waterford fb.com/WaterfordFarmersMarket/ WED 4pm – 7pm SEPT 26<br />
Wingham Farmers‘ Market 360 Josephine St., Wingham fb.com/winghamfarmersmarket/ WED 2:30pm – 6pm SEPT 26<br />
Woodstock Farmers‘ Market* Woodstock Fairgrounds, 875 Nellis Street, Woodstock fb.com/WoodstockOntarioFarmersMarket/ SAT 7am – noon Open All Year<br />
ED73 final pages.indd 7<br />
<strong>2018</strong>-09-04 12:14 PM
8 | <strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
Restaurants<br />
Food Champion James Eddington<br />
The Chef/Owner of Eddington’s of Exeter<br />
By BRYAN LAVERY<br />
Whenever I go out to dine, I generally<br />
seek out establishments<br />
whose chefs champion farmers,<br />
small-scale producers and food<br />
artisans. Restaurateurs and chefs who procure<br />
and feature local ingredients and products<br />
that are responsibly sourced are always at the<br />
top of my list. I was particularly interested in<br />
Eddington’s of Exeter because of chef/owner<br />
James Eddington’s long-standing reputation<br />
as a champion of food tourism in Huron<br />
County, and his participation in the Feast On<br />
program. For over two decades Eddington has<br />
displayed a dedicated focus to personalized<br />
service, seasonally-inspired menus and a<br />
value-driven customer experience.<br />
Feast ON has stringent guidelines and one<br />
can be assured that any restaurant with this<br />
certification has been well scrutinized. Feast<br />
ON is the criteria-based certification program<br />
designed to promote, market, and protect the<br />
authenticity of foodservice operators whose<br />
specific attributes qualify their commitment<br />
to local food. The program is designed to raise<br />
the profile of restaurants that advocate Ontario<br />
food and beverages, and share principles that<br />
are in sync with the Feast ON mandate. The<br />
program uses verification and enforcement<br />
mechanisms to maintain its integrity. Since<br />
launching the Feast On program in 2014 the<br />
Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance (OCTA) has<br />
continued growing, evolving, and improving<br />
the program. (OCTA is a not-for-profit devoted<br />
to connecting tastemakers, sharing their<br />
stories and developing authentic food tourism.)<br />
Head out of town to Exeter where chef/<br />
owner James Eddington and sous chef<br />
Lori Debrouwer prepare locally-sourced<br />
ingredients at Eddington’s of Exeter. This<br />
is contemporary, casual fine dining with a<br />
rustic charm. The yellow brick Italianate-style<br />
mansion on Main Street stands out with its<br />
decorative bracket eaves, large bay windows<br />
and well-manicured lawn with mature<br />
James Eddington in the kitchen
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
<strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 9<br />
maple trees. Eddington’s occupies<br />
the original Carling homestead<br />
(built in the 1870s), a designated<br />
historical landmark. The house has<br />
been updated throughout the years<br />
with two extensive renovations, an<br />
additional 20-seat dining room and<br />
a tri-level seasonal deck for up to 60<br />
people that is shaded with umbrellas<br />
for alfresco drinking and dining.<br />
The restaurant features twelve-foot<br />
ceilings both upstairs and down, wellspaced<br />
tables with lots of elbow room,<br />
and warm tones with a contemporary<br />
ambience bordering on elegant.<br />
Exeter, located close to Lake Huron,<br />
London and Stratford has all the amenities of<br />
a big city and the warmth of a small village.<br />
Exonian’s have a reputation for possessing<br />
plenty of community spirit. Eddington grew<br />
up in the community of Thamesford located<br />
east of London in Zorra Township. He moved<br />
to Exeter 20 years ago when he started the<br />
restaurant and now states, “I can honestly say<br />
it feels like home and that just feels good.”<br />
One of the restaurant’s signature dishes<br />
is Lake Huron pickerel. In the absence of<br />
pickerel, there is often fresh perch in season.<br />
On a recent visit we drank peach sangria made<br />
with white wine and fresh fruit, followed by a<br />
selection of Italian-themed tapas which were<br />
presented on a wooden board. There were<br />
perfectly braised beef rib with sweet and sour<br />
cherry jam and runny cambozola cheese on<br />
a crostini; sweet honey-pitted dates stuffed<br />
with blue cheese and pecans and wrapped in<br />
prosciutto with a smear of fig jam; skewers of<br />
cherry tomatoes and cubed bocconcini cheese<br />
WIN A LEXUS FOR A WEEKEND!<br />
Plus get your own car cleaned and detailed!<br />
This elegant mansion on Main Street is home to Eddington‘s of Exeter<br />
eatdrink &<br />
Presented by<br />
Enter at www.facebook.com/eatdrinkmag<br />
Contest ends <strong>October</strong> 26, <strong>2018</strong>. Complete details online.<br />
Congratulations Mary McGarry,<br />
winner of our July/August Draw!
10 | <strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
Clockwise from top left: Peach Bellini<br />
Sangria;<br />
Sticky Honey & Sriracha Crispy Chicken,<br />
waffle Cone , zesty slaw;<br />
Tomato & White Bean Vegetable Ragout,<br />
zucchini, cauliflower & corn fritters,<br />
micro greens (vegan and gluten-free);<br />
Tapas — choices might include these<br />
selections: Honey Pitted Date with<br />
blue cheese, pecan, prosciutto,<br />
cipolline onion & fig jam; Crostini with<br />
braised beef rib, sweet & sour cherry<br />
jam & cambozola cheese; Sweet Mini<br />
Heirloom Tomato with bocconcini<br />
cheese, fresh basil & balsamic glaze<br />
(gluten-free option); Blue Crab Fritter<br />
with arborio rice, remoulade & lemon;<br />
Iced Crème Brûlée Cake<br />
with fresh basil leaves and a splash of balsamic<br />
glaze; and blue crab fritters with Arborio<br />
rice, remoulade and lemon. We followed that<br />
with sticky honey and sriracha crispy chicken<br />
served with slaw in a waffle cone. At dinner<br />
the menu has such requisites as Breaded Herb<br />
of Chicken with brie and caramelized apples,<br />
and Lamb Shanks with Dijon-mint red pepper<br />
glaze. Few foods have left the global impact<br />
that ramen has on the food scene; a savoury<br />
broth with braised pork shoulder, noodles,<br />
soft poached egg, scallions, vegetables and<br />
cilantro pay homage to the obsession. Large,<br />
broad pappardelle noodles are served simply<br />
with a rustic, chunky tomato sauce with red<br />
peppers, carrots, broccoli, parmesan and<br />
Asiago cheese without too much dressing<br />
up. Tomato and local white bean vegetable<br />
ragout is served with zucchini, cauliflower,<br />
micro greens and crisp fritters with luscious<br />
corn interiors. For dessert there is carrot<br />
cake, apple bread pudding, white chocolate<br />
and lemon cheesecake and pecan pie. There<br />
is a good flourless chocolate cake and an<br />
impressive iced crème brûlée cake that shouts<br />
quality ingredients.<br />
Eddington literally fell in love with the<br />
sound of the restaurant business. As a<br />
young teen he visited a friend who worked<br />
as a dishwasher at a local fine dining<br />
establishment and waited for him to finish his<br />
shift. “Like a symphony of sounds the dining<br />
room sang with a rumble of laughter, the<br />
clinking of glasses and ambiance of live music.<br />
The kitchen was alive with a chef barking<br />
orders, the screaming sizzle of hot pans and<br />
the adrenalin rush of a full house. That was<br />
the moment everything changed. The next<br />
morning I dug out my Sunday best and shined<br />
my shoes and walked in with my resume. After<br />
much consideration, the owners hired me as<br />
host/busboy. I had my foot in the door and<br />
the rest is history,” he recounted.<br />
Locally-sourced food has been a driving
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
Trust...<br />
Taste...<br />
Quality...<br />
The tri-level deck offers space to enjoy outdoor dining<br />
force at Eddington’s of Exeter. “We are blessed<br />
to be living in such an agriculturally rich area<br />
of the world,” states Eddington. He has 25<br />
acres located on the shores of Lake Huron and<br />
farms 16 acres of corn, white beans and wheat<br />
in rotation. On other lands he has extensive<br />
gardens where he grows over 25 varieties<br />
of fruits and vegetables. The property has<br />
unique plantings alongside fruit trees with an<br />
extensive trail system with its own labyrinth.<br />
When Chef purchased the farm it was run<br />
down and over-grown, but he spent the last<br />
couple of years bringing it back to life and<br />
ensuring the longevity of the buildings. There<br />
is a small apple orchard and fresh kiwi fruit,<br />
blood peaches and quince (ingredients that<br />
are showing up more frequently on Ontario<br />
farm-to-table menus). There is a pumpkin and<br />
squash patch melded into the headlands. This<br />
past year he converted an old art studio into a<br />
working greenhouse so he could stagger seed<br />
planting in March and April to start all the<br />
vegetables that are grown on the property.<br />
Eddington’s favourite seasonal ingredients<br />
are those that are at their peak of freshness at<br />
any given time. Fresh off of the vine, picked<br />
from the tree, foraged from the forest or dug<br />
up from the earth.<br />
Eddington’s of Exeter<br />
527 Main Street, Exeter<br />
519-235-3030<br />
eddingtons.ca<br />
<strong>Eatdrink</strong> Food Editor and Writer at Large, BRYAN<br />
LAVERY brings years of experience in the restaurant<br />
and hospitality industry, as a chef, restaurateur and<br />
consultant. Always on the lookout for the stories that<br />
<strong>Eatdrink</strong> should be telling, he helps shape the magazine<br />
both under his byline and behind the scenes.<br />
Your Source for<br />
Dry Aged Steaks,<br />
Sausages, Burgers & Kebabs<br />
and so much more ...<br />
• Sourced locally from trusted farms<br />
• Traditional European preparation methods<br />
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www.metzgermeats.com<br />
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Available in London at<br />
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Specialty European Meat Products
12 | <strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
Restaurants<br />
A Genuine Taste of Place<br />
London’s Craft Farmacy<br />
By BRYAN LAVERY<br />
Modern farm-to-table restaurant<br />
concepts such as Craft Farmacy<br />
have shed most everything that<br />
is ingrained about guests’ dining<br />
perceptions. What’s left is intentionally curated<br />
and self-assured, hospitable and fueled with<br />
the lifeblood of culinary skill, craftsmanship<br />
and authenticity. Craft Farmacy is the epitome<br />
of the contemporary farm-to-table restaurant.<br />
Entrepreneur Jess Jazey-Spoelstra has always<br />
delivered cutting-edge and quality food<br />
experiences combined with extraordinary<br />
service, her forte and hallmark as the owner<br />
of North Moore Catering, The River Room,<br />
Rhino Lounge and co-owner of Craft Farmacy.<br />
Chef Andrew Wolwowicz, formerly of The<br />
Springs restaurant, is a partner as is Spoelstra’s<br />
husband Harmen. Jamie Sandwith and Cody<br />
Ballman are the experienced restaurant<br />
professionals who round out the seasoned<br />
front-of-the-house team that include some of<br />
the city’s top servers.<br />
We are living through a culinary renaissance.<br />
As a result there has been a major shift in the<br />
focus of the restaurant industry over the last<br />
few years. More than ever, my work puts me<br />
in contact with the local food ethos, gamechanging<br />
restaurateurs and chef visionaries<br />
advancing our food culture, like Jazey-Spoelstra<br />
and Wolwowicz. Just as important are those<br />
restaurant owners who have become arbiters for<br />
political issues and social justice concerns. Most<br />
of us have come to realize that if an inexpensive<br />
meal in a restaurant can only be provided on the<br />
backs of people slaving away in the kitchen for<br />
next to nothing, we should not be patronizing<br />
that restaurant. Historically the restaurant<br />
business does not provide a great living for<br />
cooks. Restaurateurs need to sustain their<br />
employees with a living wage. A good business<br />
embraces these attributes and treats their<br />
staff and clientele with dignity and integrity.<br />
Like many people I know, I will not knowingly<br />
support a business that is contrary to my<br />
Craft Farmacy‘s chef and co-owner Andrew Wolwowicz,<br />
with partners Jess Jazey-Spoelstra and Harmen Spoelstra<br />
values. Craft Farmacy is a restaurant with a well<br />
thought out ethos that is easy to get behind.<br />
As a small business owner who works hard<br />
and supports other small businesses, local<br />
food initiatives and the larger community in<br />
general, it seems ironic that Jazey-Spoelstra<br />
was recently targeted by vegan activists for<br />
offering vegetarian options at Rhino Lounge<br />
Bakery and Coffee Shoppe, and not being<br />
solely vegan. She was accused of exploiting<br />
veganism. If anything, she has helped<br />
by raising the bar in the city for quality<br />
vegetarian food. The bakery had been the
purview of her former pastry chef, the gifted<br />
Michele Lenhardt, who ran the operation as<br />
she saw fit. Lenhardt, who incidentally is a<br />
vegan, served some of the best vegetarian<br />
food in the city on the Rhino’s former plantbased<br />
Wednesdays and Fridays. Spoelstra<br />
might have been on hand to suggest a little<br />
tweaking here or there, or after seeing a<br />
cool fritter online, would want the bakers<br />
to replicate it. That is and was pretty much<br />
the extent of her input into the menu at the<br />
Rhino. After Lenhardt left to partner in the<br />
Clockwise from top left: Medley of heirloom tomatoes<br />
from the garden;<br />
Oysters Rockefeller with aged havarti bechamel;<br />
Cuban-inspired Mojo Chicken, garden zucchini,summer<br />
corn succatash;<br />
Cast iron-seared Hanger Steak, grilled peach and<br />
habanero compote, heirloom tomato and lemon<br />
cucumber salad;<br />
Heirloom Tomato and Buratta Cheese Salad with blue<br />
basil;<br />
House-smoked Cherrywood Chicken, summer peas,<br />
caramelized onions, peas and sherry reduction, injera<br />
crepe,
14 | <strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
V Spot, the direction of the Rhino<br />
changed under the new chef.<br />
Wolwowicz is also pro-active in<br />
the local food scene and among a<br />
small group of local chefs who wield<br />
unprecedented influence, and believes<br />
that part of his responsibility is to<br />
educate customers about the four<br />
pillars of sustainability: cultural<br />
vibrancy, economic prosperity,<br />
environmental responsibility and<br />
social justice. A well-known culinary<br />
gymnast who cooks with skill and<br />
dedication, Wolwowicz is one of the<br />
local pioneers of the homegrown and<br />
ethical farm-to-table movements.<br />
He was an early proponent of using<br />
locally grown ingredients from farms<br />
specializing in sustainable agriculture,<br />
organic growing practices and ethically<br />
raised livestock. Wolwowicz is aided by his<br />
talented sous chef Kyle Trafford and a team<br />
of apprentices. The chefs plate the food with<br />
open-handed generosity.<br />
Menu items are progressive, rustic in<br />
style, feature high quality ingredients, local,<br />
region-specific and specialty products, and<br />
are executed with aptitude, innovation and<br />
attention to detail. Wolwowicz’s menus<br />
reflected dishes crafted from local, regional<br />
and seasonal products long before it became<br />
the prevailing attitude. There has been a<br />
significant rise in customer expectations for<br />
restaurants in terms of healthy-eating, allergy<br />
concerns, sourcing, and sustainability over the<br />
last few years. Craft Farmacy has kept abreast<br />
of these changes.<br />
We have enjoyed plenty of unique tasting<br />
experiences like Roasted Bone Marrow (which<br />
The blackboard menu displays the daily changes in draught beer and oyster offerings.<br />
The dining room at Craft Farmacy is stylish yet comfortable,<br />
and includes a fireplace and spacious bar area.<br />
can later be used as a bourbon luge) with<br />
Ox Tail Marmalade; Lamb Belly Croquettes;<br />
Brown Butter Chicken Schnitzel with Warm<br />
Potato Salad with Forked River Abbey Jus;<br />
Craft Duck Plate with Magret, Confit and<br />
Duck Fat Fingerlings; Cast Iron Hanger Steak<br />
with Garlic Frites, Slaw, Demi, Aioli, Red<br />
Onion Marmalade and Chimichurri; and a<br />
dynamite Lamb Burger. There is Hangover<br />
Soup (not on the menu) made with shellfish<br />
broth and a raw bar featuring a fresh Shellfish<br />
Tower, Shrimp Cocktail and a changing<br />
selection of six to nine East Coast oyster<br />
varieties including Malpeque, Irish Point,<br />
Daisy Bay, Raspberry Point, Lucky Lime<br />
and Savage Blonde with fresh horseradish,<br />
mignonette sauce and hot sauce.<br />
Jazey-Spoelstra’s stylish design sensibility<br />
is reflected in Craft Farmacy and she definitely<br />
delivers style and comfort with attention to<br />
the smallest details.<br />
Setting the tone is an<br />
ample repurposed bar,<br />
stunning fireplace,<br />
custom-made leather<br />
banquettes and<br />
repurposed tables with<br />
comfortable strappedback<br />
bentwood-style<br />
chairs. The servers’<br />
custom-designed<br />
leather aprons by<br />
Coakley’s are another<br />
example of Spoelstra’s<br />
keen eye for detail.<br />
Craft, as in an<br />
activity involving skill
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
celebrating 122 years in stratford<br />
Craft Farmacy‘s Chef and co-owner Andrew Wolwowicz,<br />
a local pioneer of ethical farm-to-table cuisine.<br />
in making things by hand, and Farmacy, as in<br />
from the “farm” and from the “sea.” With 112<br />
seats, Craft Farmacy features sharing plates, a<br />
carefully though-out wine list, premium craft<br />
cocktails, ten craft beers on tap, and plenty<br />
of pizzazz. There is a private event space with<br />
room for 40 on the second floor.<br />
Craft Farmacy happens to be London’s<br />
first Feast ON certified “Taste of Ontario”<br />
restaurant. Wolwowicz gives props to Chef<br />
James Eddington of Eddington’s of Exeter for<br />
introducing him to Feast ON. Let’s hope that,<br />
with the unbridled success of Craft Farmacy,<br />
more London restaurants see the advantages<br />
and merits of becoming part of this worthy<br />
province-wide initiative.<br />
Craft Farmacy<br />
449 Wharncliffe Road South, London<br />
519-914-2699<br />
facebook.com/craftfarmacy<br />
tuesday to sunday: 11:30 am–midnight<br />
brunch sunday; closed monday<br />
BRYAN LAVERY is <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Food Editor and Writer at<br />
Large, helping shape the magazine both under his byline<br />
and behind the scenes.
Stratford is<br />
more than<br />
great theatre<br />
visitstratford.ca<br />
um<br />
Lorem ipsum<br />
A restaurant inspired by<br />
local ingredients.<br />
Run by workers.<br />
Owned by workers.<br />
Shared by the Community.<br />
7 Days a Week<br />
Reservations Recommended<br />
64 Wellington St, Stratford<br />
redrabbitresto.com<br />
519.305.6464<br />
@redrabbitresto<br />
global tapas with local ingredients<br />
fresh cocktails<br />
Perfect for dinner before or snacks after the show<br />
Wednesday–Sunday from 5pm<br />
85 Downie St, Stratford<br />
(next to Avon Theatre)<br />
519.305.8585<br />
85Downie.com
“Our bodies are our gardens<br />
to which our wills are gardeners.”<br />
— William Shakespeare<br />
Awaken your taste buds<br />
with over 50 choices of fresh,<br />
olive oils & balsamic vinegars,<br />
all in the heart of Stratford.<br />
What’s Your Flavour?<br />
Fire Roasted Corn<br />
(with Lime and<br />
Cilantro Pesto)<br />
Follow us to see what’s fresh today!<br />
21 York Street<br />
TUES, WED, THURS, SAT 10–5;<br />
FRI 10–6; SUN 12–4; Closed MON<br />
519-508-1757<br />
oliveyourfavourites.com<br />
Fresh & Frozen<br />
Eat-In or Take-Out<br />
45+ Soup Flavours<br />
Vegan, Dairy Free &<br />
Gluten Free Options<br />
No additives or<br />
preservatives<br />
Tuesday–Friday 11–6 • Saturday 11–4<br />
Sunday 10–2 at Stratford Slow Food Market<br />
98 Wellington St., Stratford 519.497.5167<br />
soupsurreal.com<br />
“A fun place to shop<br />
for housewares and gifts!”<br />
Emma Bridgewater<br />
“Vegetable Garden” Pottery<br />
Tomatoes, artichokes and peppers illustrated<br />
in delicious detail, looking good enough<br />
to eat straight from the plate.<br />
WATSON’S<br />
CHELSEA BAZAAR<br />
84 Ontario St. Stratford<br />
watsonsofstratford.com<br />
519-273-1790
18 | <strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
SPONSORED BY<br />
Road Trips<br />
Hammer Time!<br />
Discover Hamilton — A Food Lovers Heaven<br />
By AMANDA STANCATI<br />
A<br />
visit to the city that produces<br />
Dempster’s bread, Maple Leaf<br />
meats, Karma Candy candy canes<br />
and other national food brands is<br />
sure to be a tasty one. A strong coffee culture,<br />
beloved local establishments, a growing<br />
number of craft breweries, and a steady<br />
stream of new and exciting restaurants makes<br />
Hamilton a worthy destination for roadtrippers.<br />
Looking for the best food and drink<br />
in town? Here are some must-tries.<br />
Hamilton Farmers’ Market<br />
The indoor Hamilton Farmers’ Market,<br />
located in the heart of downtown beside<br />
Jackson Square, has been operating since<br />
1837. Visit on a Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, or<br />
Saturday to check out the 60 vendors who<br />
offer everything from produce and prepared<br />
foods to flowers and crafts. Market highlights<br />
include Relay Coffee Roasters for small<br />
batch, organic and fair trade coffee (and a<br />
selection of Donut Monster donuts), Cake<br />
and Loaf for Instagram-worthy desserts,<br />
Pokeh, Canada’s first poke bar serving up the<br />
fresh Hawaiian dish, and Sensational Samosa<br />
for samosas, rotis, curries, and salads.<br />
City Dishes<br />
“Distinctly Hamilton” dishes come in all<br />
shapes and sizes. Here are some favourites.<br />
Hamilton Farmers’ Market<br />
While Hamilton is where Tim Hortons<br />
was founded, donut-lovers in the city know<br />
Grandad’s is the place to go. Donuts are<br />
baked daily and are larger than what you’ll<br />
typically find in a coffee shop. And they come<br />
in flavours you won’t find anywhere else (like<br />
walnut crunch and strawberry fritter!).<br />
Simple yet delicious, Roma Bakery’s “plain”<br />
pizza isn’t topped with cheese (crazy, right?),<br />
but the saucy bread has become the go-to for<br />
birthday parties and picnics in Hamilton. Grab<br />
a slab for the road at the flagship bakery (it’s<br />
also sold at other locations around the city) and<br />
you’ll understand what all the hype is about.
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39MONTHS DOWN PAYMENT $6,400' 39MONTHS DOWN PAYMENT $5,250" 39MONTHS DOWN PAYMENT $4,180"<br />
DELIVERY CREDITS OF UP TO F SPORfCREDITS OF UP TO F SPORfCREDITS OF UP TO<br />
$4,000 A $4,000 A $2,000 A<br />
PAYMENT INCLUDES $4,000" DELIVERY CREDIT. PAYMENT INCLUDES $4000" DELIVERY CREDIT. PAYMENT INCLUDES $2,000" DELIVERY CREDIT.<br />
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1065 Wharncliffe Road South, London, ON<br />
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lexusof london.com<br />
^Delivery Credits are available on retail purchase/lease of select new <strong>2018</strong> and 2019 Lexus vehicles from a Canadian Lexus Dealer and will be applied after taxes have been charged on the full amount of the negotiated<br />
price. Vehicle must be purchased/leased, registered and delivered by August 31st, <strong>2018</strong>. *‡ Lease and Finance offers provided through Lexus Financial Services, on approved credit. *Representative lease example based on<br />
a <strong>2018</strong> RX 350 AWD sfx ‘A’ on a 39 month term at an annual rate of 1.9% and Complete Lexus Price of $59,552. Bi-weekly lease payment is $249 with $6,400 down payment or equivalent trade in, $0 security deposit and<br />
first bi-weekly lease payment due at lease inception. Total of 84 bi-weekly lease payments required during the lease term. Total lease obligation is $27,478. *Representative lease example based on a <strong>2018</strong> IS 300 AWD sfx<br />
‘B’ on a 39 month term at an annual rate of 0.9% and Complete Lexus Price of $48,302. Bi-weekly lease payment is $199 with $5,250 down payment or equivalent trade in, $0 security deposit and first bi-weekly lease<br />
payment due at lease inception. Total of 84 bi-weekly lease payments required during the lease term. Total lease obligation is $22,099. *Representative lease example based on a 2019 NX 300 sfx ‘A’ on a 39 month term at<br />
an annual rate of 1.9% and Complete Lexus Price of $46,852. Bi-weekly lease payment is $219 with $4,180 down payment or equivalent trade in, $0 security deposit and first bi-weekly lease payment due at lease inception.<br />
Total of 84 bi-weekly lease payments required during the lease term. Total lease obligation is $22,723. ‡ Representative finance example is based on a <strong>2018</strong> RX 350 AWD sfx ‘A’ on a 36 month term at an annual rate of<br />
0.9% and Complete Lexus Price of $59,552; Monthly payment is $1,677 (includes $4,000 Delivery Credit); Cost of borrowing is $830 for a total obligation of $60,381. Complete Lexus Price includes freight/PDI<br />
($2,075), EHF Tires ($16.50), EHF Filters ($1), A/C charge ($100), Dealer Fees ($599), and OMVIC Fee ($10). Taxes, license, registration (if applicable), and insurance are extra. Lexus Dealers are free to set their own<br />
prices. Limited time offers only apply to retail customers at participating Lexus Dealers. Dealer order/trade may be required (but may not be available in certain circumstances). Offers are subject to change or cancellation<br />
without notice. See Lexus of London for complete details.
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
Putting the finishing touch on S‘mores Cupcakes,<br />
at Cake & Loaf<br />
For a beachfront snack, Hamiltonians have<br />
been frequenting Hutch’s since 1946. The<br />
diner is beloved for its fish and chips, cones,<br />
milkshakes, and old-school decor.<br />
Craft Beer<br />
Hamilton’s growing craft beer scene includes<br />
a number of beautiful spaces around the city<br />
to visit for a cold one. In addition to its drink<br />
offerings, Merit Brewing offers a menu of<br />
shareables and unique sausage options to<br />
enjoy at the communal tables.<br />
Other notable craft breweries include<br />
Fairweather Brewing Company,<br />
Grain&Grit, Shawn & Ed Brewing Co.,<br />
Rust City Brewery, and Collective Arts<br />
Brewing. Collective Arts’ award-winning<br />
beers are celebrated for their limited-edition<br />
artwork on the cans and labels — and make<br />
for a tasty souvenir to bring home!<br />
Aberdeen Tavern<br />
Capri Ristorante, opened in 1963, is known<br />
for traditional pizzas and pastas — both<br />
Hamilton mainstays.<br />
For something more trendy, Aberdeen<br />
Tavern belongs to the same family of the<br />
more recently opened The French and The<br />
Shawn & Ed Brewing Co., on Hatt Street<br />
Diplomat, all excellent choices for upscale<br />
food and drink in stylish environments.<br />
Ancaster Mill and Edgewater Manor<br />
are elegant options for special occasions.<br />
Merit Brewing<br />
Notable Restaurants<br />
Hamilton restaurants serve cuisine from<br />
around the globe. Black Forest Inn has<br />
been a landmark since 1967, serving hearty<br />
Bavarian cuisine including a famous schnitzel<br />
selection. For large Italian-style portions,<br />
Ancaster Mill
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
Sample delicious local eats,<br />
meet inspiring producers and<br />
marvel at the tempting array<br />
of fresh and artisanal edibles.<br />
From farm to table, pork to pies<br />
to pints, discover more<br />
in Perth County!<br />
Mezcal TNT<br />
Built from limestone, Ancaster Mill is set<br />
beside a waterfall offering pretty views, while<br />
Edgewater Manor serves steak and seafood<br />
beside Lake Ontario.<br />
James Street<br />
James Street is one of the Hamilton’s hippest<br />
neighbourhoods, and has a high concentration<br />
of dining options. To the north is Wild<br />
Orchid for flavourful seafood, and Born<br />
and Raised for wood-oven pizza and a raw<br />
bar. To the south you’ll find Mezcal TNT<br />
for tacos and tequila and Radius for fine<br />
dining and a two-level patio — and loads of<br />
choices in between. This is a very walkable<br />
neighbourhood so get out and enjoy!<br />
Leave room for dessert from Chocolat on<br />
James or Rush Sugar Bar. Coffee options<br />
include Mulberry Coffeehouse and Saint<br />
James Espresso Bar and Eatery.<br />
restaurants<br />
farm gates<br />
NàRoma<br />
Pizzeria<br />
food shops<br />
Find us, follow us!<br />
#DiscoverMore #PerthCounty<br />
@PerthCoTourism<br />
perthcountytourism.ca
22 | <strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
Locke Street<br />
From NàRoma Pizzeria’s fusion of<br />
Naples and Roman-style pizzas to Bread<br />
Bar’s from-scratch breads, pizzas, soups<br />
and salads, Locke Street packs big flavour<br />
along a relatively short strip. For casual<br />
fine dining, Brux House and Mattson &<br />
Co both offer quality food and cocktails.<br />
For something sweet to round out your<br />
trip, Amo Gelato Caffe makes gelato<br />
in-house!<br />
Dundas<br />
The quaint town of Dundas is home to<br />
the award-winning fine dining restaurant,<br />
Quatrefoil, the pretty Detour Cafe for a<br />
coffee and bite to eat, and Beanermunky<br />
Chocolates for sweet confections.<br />
Winona<br />
Located in Hamilton towards Niagara<br />
Falls is a little community called Winona,<br />
home to Memphis Fire BBQ, a must-visit<br />
for meat-lovers. This Southern-style<br />
BBQ joint makes mouth-watering burgers,<br />
beef brisket, pulled pork, buttermilk<br />
chicken, and baby back ribs.<br />
Also in the neighbourhood is<br />
Puddicombe Estate Farms & Winery.<br />
Pick up some hand-baked pies or some<br />
award-winning wines at this 200-year-old<br />
family fruit farm.<br />
Tasty Souvenirs<br />
On your way out of the city, pick up some<br />
culinary souvenirs to enjoy at home.<br />
Nardini Specialties and Denninger’s<br />
Foods of the World have some of the<br />
best European-style sausages and meats.<br />
Lasagna-lovers can pick up some Mama<br />
Yolanda’s gourmet lasagna at Nardini.<br />
For the sweet tooth, Bennett’s Apples<br />
makes scrumptious apple pie, turnovers,<br />
and other baked goods at its market.<br />
Sam’s Queenston Bakery is known for<br />
the cannoli, made in a nut-free facility,<br />
along with other Italian treats like mini<br />
tiramisu and rum cakes.<br />
I am sure your visit to Hamilton will be a<br />
delicious one!<br />
AMANDA STANCATI is a Hamilton-based writer<br />
who loves to eat her way through different cities around<br />
the world. Follow her on Twitter @amandastancati.<br />
From the top down: NàRoma Pizza, Detour Cafe in Dundas,<br />
Memphis Fire BBQ in Winona, and Sam’s Queenstown Bakery.
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
<strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 23
24 | <strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
Wine<br />
Pioneers of “Huron Shores”<br />
Alton Farms Estate Winery in Lambton County<br />
by GARY KILLOPS<br />
Looking for a day trip close to<br />
home? Alton Farms Estate<br />
Winery, located at 5547<br />
Aberarder Line, Plympton-<br />
Wyoming is just about an hour west of<br />
London.<br />
Marc Alton and Anne Kurtz-<br />
Alton, who own and operate the<br />
vineyard, recently celebrated the fifth<br />
anniversary of the winery. The Altons<br />
purchased the 90-acre property in 2005<br />
and soon after planted a test acre of fifteen<br />
different varietals to see what they could grow<br />
best on the property.<br />
They proved wrong the naysayers who said<br />
it would be too cold for grapes to grow and for<br />
vines to survive the cold winters, and went<br />
on to became Lambton County’s first winery.<br />
Together with Dark Horse Estate Winery and<br />
Maelstrom Winery in neighboring Huron<br />
County an Ontario wine region is forming,<br />
unofficially called “Huron Shores”.<br />
“From the beginning we have always been<br />
committed to sustainability both in the<br />
vineyard and the winery,” Anne explains. “We<br />
try not to waste anything.<br />
We compost the pruned<br />
vines in the spring, and<br />
the grape skins and seeds<br />
after harvest. We also have<br />
a herd of Shetland sheep<br />
and 15 lambs who eat the<br />
ground cover between the<br />
rows of vine and fertilize<br />
the soil.”<br />
As is the case for most<br />
vineyards in southern<br />
Ontario, too much<br />
moisture from rain and<br />
humidity can be a concern.<br />
Marc, who is both the<br />
winemaker and vineyard<br />
manager, keeps a close<br />
watch on the climate and<br />
will only use the<br />
most sustainable products when there is a<br />
need to spray in the vineyard.<br />
A geo-engineer and marine geologist by<br />
profession, Marc is a self-taught winemaker<br />
and grape grower. He is learning, adapting,<br />
and challenging traditional winemaking<br />
practices and is willing to experiment with<br />
unusual blends that are both interesting and<br />
unique.<br />
In 2013 the winery opened to the public<br />
in a century-old wooden drive shed on the<br />
property. “It’s been a labour of love,” says<br />
Anne. “As our budget allows we look to make<br />
Anne Kurtz-Alton with some of the vital sheep at the Alton Farms vineyard
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
<strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 25<br />
Taste the elements.<br />
1709 Front Road, St. Williams, Norfolk County, ON<br />
Tastings, Tours & Events<br />
burningkilnwinery.ca 519.586.9858<br />
@burningkilnwine
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
Alton Farms<br />
EST A TE WINERY<br />
New look<br />
...same great wines!<br />
WINE TASTINGS, EVENTS,<br />
TOURS, OUTDOOR<br />
PATIO, WOOD-FIRED<br />
PIZZA OVEN<br />
7<br />
LAKE<br />
HURON<br />
SARNIA<br />
21<br />
Grand<br />
Bend<br />
Forest<br />
Aberarder Line<br />
21<br />
402<br />
London<br />
77 km<br />
Available at the winery, select LCBOs & farmers’ markets<br />
5547 Aberarder Line, Plympton-Wyoming<br />
519-899-2479 • altonfarmsestatewinery.com<br />
Enjoy wine on the patio. Food choices include pizza from<br />
the wood-fired oven<br />
improvements to the winery and in the<br />
vineyard.” This year the tasting room and<br />
retail store were moved to the renovated<br />
basement of the family home, offering a<br />
striking wooden tasting bar with superior<br />
lighting and welcoming ambience. The winery<br />
offers a flight of three wines for $5. The tasting<br />
fee is waived with wine purchase. In addition<br />
to wine, the retail store has glassware, gift<br />
baskets, and wine accessories for sale.
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
<strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 27<br />
more wine, and sell more volume,” Marc said.<br />
Anne also pointed out that the patio and<br />
special events help keep the winery open at<br />
this time.<br />
The winery hosted quite a few events this<br />
past summer such as “Wine Wednesday<br />
Dinners” featuring different local chefs each<br />
week and food paired with wines from Alton<br />
Estates. They also hold “Wine and Paint” and<br />
“Wine and Yoga” afternoons and the annual<br />
“Fine Art, Fine Wine: Show and Sale.” Many of<br />
these events sold out.<br />
The new tasting room has a warm and welcoming<br />
ambiance<br />
Other recent additions to the winery<br />
include an open-air patio and a wood-fired<br />
pizza oven offering Margherita, meat lovers,<br />
Mediterranean chicken and gluten-free pizzas.<br />
The patio menu also includes charcuterie<br />
boards with a selection of seasonal meats,<br />
cheeses, breads, crackers and fruits. Wine is<br />
available by the glass.<br />
The selection of red, white and rosé wines<br />
available for purchase from the winery is<br />
always changing as new wines are released.<br />
The current offerings include a 2016 riesling,<br />
2016 sauvignon blanc and 2015 chardonnay,<br />
and a rosé made from marechel foch grapes.<br />
Red wines include the 2016 baco noir, 2015<br />
cabernet sauvignon and 2015 cabernet franc.<br />
Some hybrid and vinifera blends are also<br />
available.<br />
Alton Farms wine production is small when<br />
compared to other wineries in Ontario. Last<br />
year they produced just under 600 cases and<br />
hope to increase production to about 800<br />
cases this year. With this volume it is difficult<br />
to make a profit. “You really have to make<br />
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28 | <strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
stomping fee is $5 per entry, with all proceeds<br />
in support of Bluewater Centre for Raptor<br />
Rehabilitation. This is a family event with<br />
competitive adult grape stomping and kid<br />
stomps.<br />
On <strong>October</strong> 13th the winery will host their<br />
second annual Weinfest. This family-friendly<br />
event is a German tradition in celebration of<br />
the new wines in production after harvest.<br />
Anne Kurtz -Alton and Marc Alton, of Alton Farms Estate<br />
Winery.<br />
On <strong>September</strong> 23rd the winery will host<br />
the third annual grape stomp event. The<br />
Alton Farms Estate Winery<br />
5547 Aberarder Line, Plympton-Wyoming<br />
519-899-2479<br />
altonfarmsestatewinery.com<br />
GARY KILLOPS is a CAPS Certified Sommelier who<br />
loves to talk, taste, and write about wine. He shares his<br />
tasting notes on EssexWineReview.com<br />
Spirits<br />
Taking it Slow<br />
Willibald Farm Distillery in Ayr<br />
By ANDREW COPPOLINO | Photos by BROGAN McNABB<br />
The folks at Willibald Farm Distillery<br />
might say that time hasn’t been on<br />
their side — and that’s all right with<br />
them. At the distillery located near<br />
Ayr, about 30 minutes south of Kitchener,<br />
they’re in the habit of just taking things slow.<br />
Even after the investment in start-up costs, they<br />
weren’t in a rush to get to market. Their success<br />
is a marker of the painstaking nature of the<br />
planning and distilling process they developed.<br />
“We probably went through close to 100<br />
variations of recipes before we decided which<br />
one to use. We were confident then that we<br />
had something people would really like,” says<br />
co-owner Jordan van der Heyden.<br />
The 29-year-old and his business partners<br />
and co-founders — brother Nolan, 25, and<br />
long-time friend Cam Formica, also 29 — have<br />
set themselves up on 100 acres of the van<br />
der Heyden family farm, formerly a livestock<br />
operation. The partners, who grew up together<br />
in Ayr, wanted to test their entrepreneurial<br />
mettle and “find something different that we
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
<strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 29<br />
could use the land for,” according to Jordan.<br />
Their own time-dependent version of gin<br />
was the immediate answer. They grow grains,<br />
lavender, and other crops, and keep honey<br />
bees. “With everything we grow, we make<br />
spirits,” he says.<br />
Nolan and Jordan both went to University<br />
of Waterloo. Formica attended Lakehead.<br />
That brought business, engineering and<br />
environmental science to the Willibald<br />
management table, along with some distilling<br />
education in the U.S. Distilling is Nolan’s<br />
responsibility, and he is broadening his<br />
understanding of the art and science of the<br />
process with schooling in Scotland. As for the<br />
name, it’s an inside family joke that everyone<br />
is now happy to share: Willibald is Jordan’s<br />
and Nolan’s grandfather’s middle name. “We<br />
were looking for something unique. He’s never<br />
been too fond of it, but he’s warmed up to it<br />
as a business name and wears a shirt with the<br />
brand,” says Jordan.<br />
It was 2012 when the trio was searching for<br />
a way to use the farm, recognizing that there<br />
were a lot of breweries out there. “We realized<br />
distilling was still in its infancy at that point.<br />
Only Dillon’s in Niagara and Still Waters in<br />
Toronto were in business at the time.” Today<br />
there are about 20 distilleries up and running.<br />
The Willibald facility is an old barn,<br />
refurbished but maintaining its post-andbeam<br />
character. There’s a retail store, and they<br />
give tours and offer complementary tastings.<br />
Until very recently, distilleries could not offer<br />
glasses of spirits in the way that breweries<br />
and wineries were able to. “We just got that<br />
privilege a few months ago and are serving<br />
cocktails at the farm. That’s been a great thing<br />
for us,” says Jordan. They’ve added a woodfired<br />
oven and have started serving food.<br />
Gin itself has a storied history. A grain<br />
distillate, it is initially distilled to a desired<br />
alcohol content and then distilled again along<br />
with an infusion of juniper berries and a range<br />
of herbs and botanicals. Water is added to<br />
establish the correct alcohol concentration —<br />
usually 80 to 95 proof — with the hope that<br />
the spirit will be aromatic and fairly light. At<br />
Willibald they have gotten that down pat, if<br />
their success is any indication. They started<br />
with the trial-and-error of home distilling<br />
and learned the theory side in the U.S. Those<br />
were the easy steps. “It took us a few years<br />
to get the necessary permits and zoning<br />
amendments,” says Jordan. The farm is zoned<br />
for agriculture, but distilling is considered<br />
an industrial process. “The authorities were<br />
extremely supportive, but because it was a<br />
new concept it took a long time.”<br />
Gin, by law, has to include juniper as a<br />
flavour component. “We also add caraway seed,<br />
grapefruit peel, cardamom, coriander and<br />
angelica root. Those ingredients flavour the gin,<br />
and from there we barrel it, and that’s where the<br />
colour comes from,” says Jordan. The blending<br />
process only takes about 10 days. Then comes<br />
the barrel aging — a time commitment of many<br />
months. After aging the contents of the barrels<br />
are blended and then bottled for shipping.<br />
The gin, which is constantly being distilled,<br />
is available at LCBO year-round. “Our first<br />
seasonal release will be later this summer. That<br />
will be in the realm of 1,500 to 2,000 bottles.”<br />
The current revival of the cocktail menu at<br />
bars and restaurants, and the bespoke, crafted<br />
impetus it carries, has meant that mixologists
30 | <strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
not yet have what Jordan calls “the craft-spirit<br />
mentality” like they have for craft beer. “Once<br />
they’ve tried it, it’s a good sell for us,” he says.<br />
There’s more Willibald to look forward<br />
to. Gin accounts for only about one-third<br />
of their production. Whisky makes up the<br />
majority. However, that spirit, by virtue<br />
of Canadian law, must be aged a minimum<br />
of three years. “We haven’t been able to<br />
release any yet. We’ve been in production<br />
for a little over two years now, so in the next<br />
are constantly scanning product lines for the<br />
new and unique. Willibald fits the bill. At the<br />
time of this writing Willibald gin was the<br />
only barrel-aged gin available at the LCBO.<br />
“Gin is typically an unaged spirit. It’s clear<br />
and never been in oak, traditionally. But<br />
our gin looks a lot like whisky with its dark<br />
amber colour, and that’s because it spends<br />
anywhere from four to ten months in oak<br />
casks.” The results are what he calls a “whisky<br />
character” that bartenders are interested in<br />
because they can’t get it elsewhere. “It makes<br />
a phenomenal whisky sour,” he adds.<br />
A barrel-aged gin like Willibald lends itself<br />
to being sipped neat. For consumers who have<br />
never thought of drinking gin straight that’s<br />
something of a perceived obstacle that the<br />
company is trying to change. “Barrel aging<br />
really mellows out the spirit and cleans it up a<br />
bit, making it suitable if you do want to drink<br />
it neat or on the rocks. It’s quite smooth.<br />
There has been a remarkable appetite for<br />
good quality gin in an older demographic of<br />
customer we are seeing.”<br />
Identifying the exact nature of “local” is<br />
a bit of a mug’s game: it can mean different<br />
things to different people. But the concept<br />
does play a part in Willibald’s marketing<br />
strategy. “What we find is that a lot of the<br />
restaurants that are focussed on quality<br />
cocktails don’t necessarily put as much<br />
emphasis on local. They’re more concerned<br />
with the quality of the product,” Jordan says.<br />
That makes sense, of course — and that’s<br />
the way it should be — but he adds that this<br />
region has been supportive of this new entry<br />
into the marketplace, for being both local and<br />
of high quality. Willibald currently doesn’t<br />
have the competition that breweries and<br />
wineries do. Even at the LCBO, the product<br />
is unique, and that’s been good. They target<br />
establishments with specialty cocktail menus<br />
rather than venues that focus on volume. Yet<br />
even some better bars and restaurants may<br />
year or two we’ll have some whisky,” Jordan<br />
says. There are plans for spiced whisky with<br />
apple. “We’re also doing some work with the<br />
lavender we grow and we have honey bees<br />
at the farm.” That means Willibald, unique<br />
with its inventive gin, is continuing along the<br />
creative path they’ve forged for themselves,<br />
but they’re not rushing things. “We are<br />
playing around with quite a few things,” says<br />
Jordan. “We have the type of still that allows<br />
us to do anything with spirits, from gins<br />
and whiskies to fruit brandies. Those are the<br />
products we’re interested in pursuing. But<br />
because it’s aged, it takes time.”<br />
Willibald Farm Distillery<br />
1271 Reidsville Road, Ayr<br />
226-556-9941<br />
drinkwillibald.com<br />
ANDREW COPPOLINO is a Kitchener-based writer<br />
and broadcaster. He is publisher of Waterloo Region Eats<br />
(waterlooregioneats.com) a longstanding online resource<br />
dedicated to food, dining, restaurants, chefs, sustainability<br />
and agriculture. Andrew also serves as a regional<br />
<strong>Eatdrink</strong> Editorial Consultant.<br />
BROGAN McNABB is a Toronto-based fashion and<br />
lifestyle photographer. broganmcnab.com
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
Beer<br />
Seasonal Sensations<br />
Ciders and Sours, for Autumn<br />
by GEORGE MACKE<br />
<strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 31<br />
Ciders and sours. As summer morphs<br />
into fall, these two styles of alcoholic<br />
beverages become top of mind for<br />
me.<br />
Craft ciders, led by cideries such as KW Craft<br />
Cider in Waterloo, are gaining momentum as<br />
both an alternative to white wine and, because<br />
ciders are fermented using fruit not grain, a<br />
gluten-free choice for an alcoholic beverage.<br />
Interest is such that some craft breweries<br />
— Walkerville in Windsor and Toboggan in<br />
London, for example — are adding their own<br />
takes on cider in-house, perhaps with wider<br />
distribution on the horizon.<br />
Sour beers have an exciting tartness, and<br />
are more enjoyable, sessionable and thirstquenching<br />
than an overly hopped IPA. We can<br />
thank Belgium for developing the style which<br />
has been embraced by many Ontario craft<br />
brewers, most notably Half Hours on Earth<br />
in Seaforth. Farmhouse sours, in theory, feature<br />
locally available ingredients and started<br />
as a low-alcohol style consumed around the<br />
fall harvest, as a lunchtime meal companion<br />
or end-of-day reward after hard hours in the<br />
fields. Look for words like lambic, Flanders red,<br />
gose, or Berliner weisse and chances are you’ve<br />
got a delightful sour in your hand.<br />
While many good examples of ciders and<br />
sours can be found at the LCBO and select<br />
grocery stores, beverage explorers know<br />
the best way to discover the talents of<br />
Southwestern Ontario cideries and brewers<br />
is to hit the road and buy direct, or<br />
use the breweries’ online stores if<br />
available.<br />
To whet your appetite, here’s a<br />
twelve-pack of sensational ciders and<br />
sours.<br />
KW Craft Sparkling Dry<br />
Cider —This flagship brand has<br />
been a consistent medal winner at<br />
the Great Lakes International Cider<br />
and Perry Competition in Michigan.<br />
This is 6.7 per cent alcohol (abv) and<br />
is refreshing on its own or with a<br />
cheese tray.<br />
Hammer Bent Original<br />
by Twin Pines — Made from a blend of<br />
Northern Spy, Ida Red, Golden Russett and<br />
Jonagold apples grown in the<br />
Thedford orchards, Hammer<br />
Bent Original leads a family<br />
of nine versions of cider and<br />
apple wine from Twin Pines.<br />
It’s their best, but Crack Willow,<br />
an apple wine made with<br />
Northern Spy, Ida Red, and Golden Russet<br />
piques the interest of beverage voyageurs.<br />
Against the Currant by Wellington<br />
Brewing — Available as part of the Welly<br />
CRAFT BEER<br />
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TAP ROOM . BEER SHOP . EVENTS . SNACKS<br />
sonsofkent.com 519-354-BEER (2337)<br />
now available at the LCBO!
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
Look for<br />
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LCBO!<br />
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Road Trip!<br />
Come to the Cowbell Farm in Blyth, Ontario<br />
“THE NO.1 CRAFT BREWERY IN CANADA TO VISIT.”<br />
—WAYNE NEWTON, FOOD & DRINK JOURNALIST<br />
40035 BLYTH ROAD, BLYTH, ON N0M 1H0<br />
1-844-523-4724 WWW.COWBELLBREWING.COM<br />
Rebooted Mix Pack Volume 4,<br />
Against the Currant is a purple monster<br />
of tang. Brewed in Guelph using<br />
Ontario black currants, there’s also<br />
a slight lemon flavour. The pack is at<br />
the LCBO or can be ordered through<br />
Wellington Brewing’s online store.<br />
Oak Aged Blueprint by Half<br />
Hours on Earth — Okay,<br />
it’s tough to keep up<br />
with what’s available at<br />
Half Hours on Earth in<br />
Seaforth, as versions of small batch<br />
sours come and go quickly. Half<br />
Hours updates its inventory availability<br />
each Thursday. Earth Oak<br />
Aged Blueprint is a 4.5% abv farmhouse<br />
saison. It’s aged in cider barrels,<br />
then blended with perry (aka<br />
cider made from pears) from Revel<br />
Cider in Guelph. Snag one of these to impress<br />
your friends.<br />
Hansel and Brett’el Farmhouse<br />
Blonde Ale by Forked<br />
River — Aged in chardonnay barrels<br />
for six months, Hansel and Brett’el<br />
is both light (4.6% abv) and flavourful,<br />
but not found by walking in the<br />
woods. Forked River suggests pairing<br />
it with a Cobb salad. Hansel and<br />
Brett’el is available only at the brewery<br />
bottle shop in London or through<br />
the Forked River online store.<br />
Berry Berliner by Innocente<br />
Brewing — This seasonal was brewed as a collaboration<br />
between Innocente of Waterloo and<br />
craft-loving Beertown Public House (locations in<br />
Waterloo, London, Cambridge,<br />
and Burlington). Brewed with<br />
raspberries and blackberries,<br />
it’s a nod to Ontario fruit<br />
farmers. It’s very light at 3.8%<br />
abv with an entry-level tartness.<br />
Innocente and Beertown<br />
have done six collaborative brews — keep an<br />
eye out for them. Berry Berliner is in cans at the<br />
brewery or available for growler fills.<br />
Sports by Refined Fool — Named in<br />
honour of sports being one<br />
of our most beloved universal<br />
conversation-starters (How<br />
‘bout those Leafs? Finally,<br />
eh?), Sports is 5.5% abv and 20<br />
IBU (International Bitterness<br />
Units). This saison uses boy
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
senberries. Tasting notes point out tangerine<br />
and honey flavours. Game on!<br />
Face for a Neck Tattoo by Refined<br />
Fool — Make it two for<br />
Sarnia’s craft brewery. This<br />
5.2% abv, 27 IBU saison uses<br />
Szechuan peppercorns. The<br />
name plays on tough guys<br />
softened by liking the taste<br />
of this one.<br />
Keyser Gose by Forked River<br />
— Brewers at London’s Forked River<br />
used lactobacillus followed by brewers<br />
yeast to create this new gently<br />
sour, citrusy gose, a beer style from<br />
Germany. It’s a brewery store/<br />
Forked River online exclusive.<br />
Spirit of the Woods by Revel<br />
Cider — Guelph’s cider house collaborated<br />
with Dillon’s Small Batch<br />
Distillers of Beamsville<br />
to create this by aging<br />
the cider on spent gin<br />
botanicals. A gold medal<br />
winner at the Ontario Cider<br />
Awards in 2015, Spirit of<br />
<strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 33<br />
the Woods is 6.9% abv.<br />
66 Pickup by Hoity Toity — A gold<br />
medal winner at the Great Lakes International<br />
Cider and Perry competition,<br />
66 Pickup veers to the dry side. Kudos<br />
to the rural Bruce County winery for<br />
rebranding this cider from its original<br />
name, Gravel Run, which left my throat<br />
dusty. This lightly carbonated cider is<br />
made with apples harvested in Grey<br />
and Bruce counties.<br />
Toboggan Cider — The Richmond Row,<br />
London brew pub aims to<br />
please by offering a pair of its<br />
own ciders, a dry and a sweet.<br />
Either works well for sitting<br />
on the restaurant’s patio and<br />
toasting the drop-off of your<br />
kid up the road at Western,<br />
but the nod goes to the dry version for its citrus<br />
undertone. Both are 6% abv.<br />
GEORGE MACKE is a craft beer lover exploring the<br />
breweries (and cideries) throughout Southwestern<br />
Ontario.<br />
BLACK SWAN<br />
BREWING COMPANY<br />
STRATFORD • ONTARIO<br />
It's what we drink.<br />
144 DOWNIE ST, STRATFORD<br />
BLACKSWANBREWING.CA 519 • 814 • 7926 @BLACKSWANBREWINGCO
34 | <strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
The BUZZ<br />
Culinary Community Notes<br />
London<br />
We’re moving ahead as briskly as we can with an<br />
updated London’s Local Flavour Culinary Guide.<br />
We’re happy to report that all 30,000 copies we<br />
printed were distributed last year and we’ve been<br />
out of copies for several weeks. We got them out to<br />
important locations like tourism offices, the airport,<br />
farmers’ markets, and select restaurants, shops and<br />
cultural spots. This year we are excited to allow outof-town<br />
neighbours to take part in Local Flavour. Let<br />
us know if you would like to participate in the Guide.<br />
The recently launched Old South Farmers Market<br />
operates from 4 to 7 p.m. on Thursdays. Its debut<br />
last month drew large crowds to the host venue<br />
Storm Stayed Brewing Company.<br />
Join us in a celebration of local food and drink.<br />
The Artisanal Culinary Arts program at Fanshawe<br />
College will be hosting a Harvest Dinner to<br />
celebrate International Chefs Day on <strong>October</strong> 20.<br />
The dinner will feature five courses with drink<br />
pairings. 130 Dundas Street (Fanshawe’s new<br />
downtown campus). Tickets are $100 and available<br />
through fanshawec.ca/harvest<br />
Restaurateur Joe Duby has launched gNosh in the<br />
former Blu Duby space with entrances off Dundas<br />
Street and Market Lane. Using locally sourced,<br />
sustainable ingredients to create delectable fare<br />
is the passion of Chef Cynthia Beaudoin and her<br />
culinary team. gNoshbyJoeDuby.com<br />
Chef Dave Lamers and business partner Rob<br />
D’Amico of Abruzzi have started construction on<br />
Taverna 1331 in Hyde Park. Abruzzi welcomed Chef<br />
Justin Dafoe, a graduate of Stratford Chefs School,<br />
earlier this year. Dafoe is currently working at<br />
Abruzzi, and will be leading the kitchen team at the<br />
new restaurant. Follow Taverna on Instagram and<br />
Facebook. abruzzi.ca<br />
Palasad North is closed for renovations and<br />
will bring a new concept to the city around mid-<br />
November. The Palasad South location will be<br />
rockin’ as always. Stay tuned to their social sites for<br />
exciting updates on this new adventure. It’s exciting!<br />
After 11 years, the folks at True Taco have closed<br />
their Dundas Street operation. They will continue<br />
operating at the Market at Western Fair. They would<br />
like to thank their family, friends and customers<br />
who have supported them and made the experience<br />
tremendously memorable. “It has truly changed our<br />
lives, and we are excited to start a new chapter!”<br />
The recently opened Casa Cancun at 325 Wharncliffe<br />
Rd. South serves authentic Mexican fare and has<br />
a genuinely cantina-like ambience, although it is<br />
unlicensed. It serves excellent tacos and enchiladas<br />
and is located close to the Hyland Theatre. Tacos are<br />
50% off on Tuesdays! www.casacancun.ca<br />
Another great Latino hotspot is Lo Nuestro at 722<br />
Hamilton Road. The humble restaurant with great food<br />
has new owners and we are hearing great reports from<br />
our readers. lonuestrolatinrestaurant.com<br />
The Market at Western Fair will open on both<br />
Saturday (8am–3pm) and Sunday (11am–3pm)<br />
each week beginning <strong>October</strong> 6. Market Manager<br />
Dan Ross and Assistant Manager Courtney Berens<br />
481 Richmond Street<br />
519-432-4092<br />
garlicsoflondon.com
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
are working to grow attendance and improve<br />
the customer experience. Up to $400,000 will be<br />
invested in the Confederation Building location<br />
this year, including washroom upgrades and<br />
new cooler storage. Support local and include @<br />
TheMarketWFD and use #MeetMeAtTheMarket<br />
when sharing on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter.<br />
westernfairdistrict/market<br />
Chef Chris Morrisson of the Katana Kafe will be at<br />
it again, switching up the menus for cooler weather<br />
during <strong>October</strong>. Come out and enjoy his mouthwatering<br />
dishes. Come for breakfast, get lost in time<br />
watching aviation, and find yourself staying for<br />
lunch and dinner. katanakafe.ca<br />
Bourbon Street, London’s destination for Cajun and<br />
Creole food on Oxford Street, has closed.<br />
The Village Teapot in Ilderton is owned and run by<br />
Gaynor Deeks and Jana Yassine. Gaynor is originally<br />
from the UK, Jana from Chatham, Ontario. They<br />
are tea drinkers and sandwich makers, and know<br />
a good scone when they see one. Located in one of<br />
the oldest properties in the town, believed to be<br />
at least 145 years old, the premises retain many<br />
period features. Beginning <strong>September</strong> Deeks and<br />
Yassine will again be offering Sunday Roast lunches<br />
Destination for the food lover<br />
Featuring specialty foods,<br />
kitchenwares, tablewares,<br />
cooking classes and gift baskets.<br />
115 King St., London Ontario<br />
jillstable.ca 519-645-1335<br />
NOW<br />
OPEN!<br />
We’re dedicated to making your experience perfect,<br />
whether it’s a romantic evening EatDrinkAd_2017.indd out, a night<br />
1 2017-04-19 2:28<br />
with good friends, a corporate function, or an<br />
important life event. We’re here to help.<br />
Using locally sourced, sustainable ingredients to<br />
create delectable fare is Chef Cynthia Beaudoin and<br />
gNosh’s culinary team’s passion. With an ever-evolving menu, focused<br />
on the seasons and executed to perfection, we’ll wow you with every<br />
bite. We have assembled a service team of accomplished pros to ensure<br />
your every need is taken care of.<br />
gNosh is excited to be part of Dundas Place, the newly created<br />
flex street, with construction anticipated to be finished in<br />
<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong>.<br />
125 Dundas Street, London<br />
Reservations: 519-601-8050<br />
www.gnoshbyjoeduby.com
Your love of all things Italian begins at<br />
Gift Cards<br />
Available<br />
519-652-7659 • HWY 401 & 4 • pastosgrill.com<br />
NEW<br />
AUTUMN<br />
MENU<br />
FLIGHTS & BITES<br />
HALF PRICE Sharing Plates & Oysters<br />
Tuesday–Friday from 3:30–5:30pm<br />
SUNDAY INDUSTRY NIGHTS<br />
20% OFF!<br />
NOW BOOKING CHRISTMAS PARTIES<br />
TUES–SAT Lunch & Dinner 11:30am to Close<br />
SUNDAY Brunch 11am & Dinner<br />
449 Wharncliffe Road South<br />
519.914.2699<br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
once a month. Usually these are scheduled at the<br />
beginning of each month but to accommodate a<br />
Turkey Dinner before Thanksgiving the first one<br />
will be Sunday <strong>September</strong> 30 from 12 p.m. to 2 p.m.<br />
Turkey with all the trimmings will be on the menu.<br />
Reservations required. thevillageteapot.ca<br />
Gino Parco of Porcino, the Italian hotspot on<br />
Southdale, has launched Veta Wine and Pasta<br />
Bar in the former Blu Duby North location at 745<br />
Fanshawe Park Road West.<br />
This year’s VegFest — London’s annual “plantbased<br />
party” — takes place Saturday, November 10,<br />
10 a.m. to 6 p.m., at the Metroland Media Agriplex,<br />
Western Fair District. A wide variety of vendors<br />
will be on site, offering food and drink samples and<br />
all kinds of support for a plant-based lifestyle.<br />
Admission is $5 (children 12 and under are free) and<br />
parking is free. vegfestlondon.com<br />
Museum London is hosting the inaugural “Night<br />
at the Forks” fundraising gala, featuring a tasting<br />
menu by one of the leaders pushing the vanguard<br />
of Indigenous cuisine, Chef Joseph Shawana<br />
of Kū-Kŭm Kitchen (one of Toronto Life’s Best<br />
Restaurants <strong>2018</strong>). This will be the first time Chef<br />
Shawana will be creating his delicacies in the Forest<br />
City. Be prepared for creative dishes that combine<br />
fine dining techniques and traditional Indigenous<br />
recipes. For example, from the restaurant’s menu:<br />
Pemmican, Venison Gravlax, and Sweet Grass<br />
Cream Brûlée. The gala will take place throughout<br />
the Museum, with a concert in the new Centre at the<br />
Forks space. Funds raised will go towards children’s<br />
programming and other activities at Museum<br />
London. The gala seeks to spread awareness of<br />
modern Indigenous culture through food and<br />
music. Saturday, November 17 at 6:00 pm.<br />
Celebrating its sixth anniversary, The Root Cellar<br />
remains committed to working with local, organic,<br />
and sustainably focused farms in Southwestern<br />
Ontario. Through On the Move Organics,<br />
the worker-owners have forged meaningful<br />
relationships and continue to expand the network<br />
of organic farmers and producers they work with.<br />
Aranka Csárda is a family-run Hungarian restaurant<br />
on Longwoods Road just outside of Lambeth. The<br />
owners take pride in what they do and serve only<br />
authentic and quality food. The decor and colours of<br />
the restaurant are meant to mimic the feel of a real<br />
Hungarian Csárda. You’ll feel like you’re in a different<br />
country when you dine with them. 7447 Longwoods<br />
Road, London. aranka.ca<br />
Lou Dawg’s Southern BBQ has opened in the space<br />
previously occupied by Icarus on Richmond Row.
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
The Forest City Cookbook crew recently launched<br />
the book to considerable acclaim. It features over<br />
60 talented culinary artists and 40 dedicated local<br />
producers in a stunning 500-plus-page hardcover<br />
edition, with 135 recipes. There are still a few copies<br />
left for sale at Haymach Canada and Edge Food<br />
Equipment. forestcitycookbook.ca<br />
Jill’s Table fall cooking classes have a big season<br />
planned including classes on Vietnamese, How to<br />
Sous Vide, The Big Red Bowl, Cider & Food Pairing,<br />
Hands-On Pasta, Vegan Brunch, Gluten Free Baking,<br />
Sake & Sushi, Chinese Street Food, Festive Cookies,<br />
Cooking With Cast Iron, French Baking, Vegetarian<br />
Food & Wine Pairing, Inspiring Appetizers and so<br />
much more. jillsclasses.ca<br />
Thanksgiving Sunday (<strong>October</strong> 7) is the day to treat<br />
family and friends to turkey and all the trimmings,<br />
at Idlewyld Inn & Spa. Thanksgiving Sunday Brunch<br />
Buffet, sittings at 11 am & 1:30 pm. Children age 3 to<br />
12: 50% off. Thanksgiving Sunday Dinner, sittings<br />
at 5 pm & 7:30 pm, children age 3 to 12: 50% off. The<br />
Idlewyld is also accepting reservations for holiday<br />
parties. 36 Grand Ave, 519-432-5554, idlewyld.com<br />
The In Home Chef’s new fall cooking class schedule<br />
is here. Just click on the link to check out what<br />
SUNDAY BRUNCH<br />
11am−2pm<br />
Intimate<br />
Outdoor<br />
Courtyard<br />
Open 7 Days a Week<br />
Mon/Tues 11:30-10, Wed/Thurs 11:30-11, Fri/Sat 11:30-12, Sun 11-10<br />
$110<br />
Inclusive<br />
Friday, <strong>September</strong> 21st, <strong>2018</strong><br />
Scotch Tasting is Back!<br />
Simon Hooper Scotch Ambassador, will be showcasing a special Scotch blended<br />
from all their distilleries, only 64 cases in the world. Tickets available now.<br />
$79<br />
Inclusive<br />
Sunday, <strong>October</strong> 7th, <strong>2018</strong> | Brunch - $38.95 ~ Dinner - $42.95<br />
Thanksgiving Buffet at the Idlewyld<br />
Featuring turkey, all the trimmings, hot and cold sides, & a decadent dessert table!<br />
11:00am Brunch, 1:30pm Brunch, 5:00pm Dinner and 7:30pm Dinner.<br />
| Starts at 7:00 pm<br />
Ghouls Just Want to Have Fun!<br />
Ricki just moved to the neighbourhood four months ago, but already he’s been accused<br />
of stealing cats, soliciting foolish relationships, disregarding town building codes and<br />
he’s making enemies fast. In an effort to mend fences and reverse bad first impressions,<br />
Ricki decides to invite the neighbourhood to a god, old-fashioned Halloween party.<br />
36 Grand Ave, London • 519.432.5554 • www.idlewyldinn.com
38 | <strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />
they’ve got cooking. Chef Thomas Waite offers<br />
cooking classes, pop-up dinners and a private<br />
dining room. Waite will be partnering with other<br />
chefs and farmers this fall for pop-up dinners and<br />
events. theinhomechef.ca/cooking-classes/<br />
Reverie is a Canadian-focused five-course tasting<br />
menu restaurant with optional wine pairings,<br />
operated by Chef Brian Sua-an and Jerrah Revilles.<br />
Chef uses modern and molecular techniques and<br />
applies them to his cuisine to make each dish<br />
uniquely his own. Chef is teaming up this fall with<br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
our food editor Bryan Lavery for a pop-up event<br />
featuring a menu inspired by Lavery’s former<br />
Murano Restaurant at the end of <strong>September</strong>.<br />
Reservations are required. 1–208 Piccadilly Street,<br />
519-914-6595, reverierestaurant.ca<br />
Thanksgiving Sunday (<strong>October</strong> 7) is the day to treat<br />
family and friends to turkey and all the trimmings,<br />
at Idlewyld Inn & Spa. Thanksgiving Sunday Brunch<br />
Buffet, sittings at 11 am & 1:30 pm. Children age 3 to<br />
12: 50% off. Thanksgiving Sunday Dinner, sittings<br />
at 5 pm & 7:30 pm, children age 3 to 12: 50% off. The<br />
Idlewyld is also accepting reservations for holiday<br />
parties. 36 Grand Ave, 519-432-5554, idlewyld.com<br />
Blackfriars Bistro & Catering is open on Mondays<br />
for lunch and dinner. Betty Heydon’s locallyacclaimed<br />
bistro continues to wow all age groups<br />
and recently celebrated its 22nd birthday. Chefs<br />
prepare innovative, seasonal blackboard specials<br />
with cutting-edge menus that respect tradition.<br />
Closed Sundays. 46 Blackfriars St., 519-667-4930,<br />
blackfriarsbistro.com<br />
Food Trucks on the Farm: It’s Heeman’s 5th annual<br />
Food Truck event on <strong>September</strong> 15 & 16 with unique<br />
food offerings from 10am to 3pm each day. This year’s<br />
trucks include local favourites plus a couple great food<br />
wagons on wheels from the K-W area.Look for, among<br />
others, Bifana Boys, Goodah Gastrotruck, My Big Fat<br />
Food Truck, ish & chips, Smokestacks & The Donut<br />
Diva. heeman.ca/food-trucks/<br />
Matthew and Kristin Buckley of Powerhouse<br />
Brewing are setting up in the former Kellogg’s in<br />
the Albert Kahn-designed power plant. Generators<br />
that once churned out the energy to produce cereal<br />
have been replaced by a four-vessel, 20-barrel<br />
brewhouse. When Powerhouse’s taproom opens,<br />
it will feature eight taps: six Powerhouse or<br />
Tobermory beers plus two rotating among other<br />
craft breweries in London. The brewery is familyowned<br />
and operated, using quality Canadian-made<br />
From Recipe to Reality: How to Start A Food Business<br />
If you want to turn your winning recipe into a successful<br />
venture, then this seminar is for you!<br />
Tuesday, <strong>September</strong> 25 th , <strong>2018</strong> - FREE! (seating is limited!)<br />
Hosted in Partnership with:<br />
379 Dundas Street, Unit 220 | London, Ontario N6B 1V5 | 519-659-2882 | www.sbcentre.ca/foodbusiness
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
equipment. It will offer tastes, tours and memorable<br />
dining experiences. powerhousebrewery.beer<br />
Fanshawe’s College’s new $66-million downtown<br />
campus in the former Kingsmill’s department store<br />
is now open on time and on budget. The hospitality/<br />
culinary and information technology programs<br />
have their new home in the downtown campus.<br />
Most of the third floor is devoted to state-of-theart<br />
kitchens and bakery. The culinary program<br />
will be showcased in Chef’s Table, a groundfloor<br />
restaurant that will help provide a training<br />
ground for culinary students and serve locallysourced<br />
food with a sustainable focus featuring<br />
international flavours.<br />
Culinary wizard Matt Reijnen, former chef at Pub<br />
Milos, has opened Pizzeria Madre in the space<br />
previously occupied by Manito’s Rotisserie at 111<br />
Wellington Street. We are already hearing glowing<br />
reports. pizzeriamadre.wixsite.com/book<br />
Olha and Anatolii Prytkova’s Happiness Coffee<br />
and Desserts opened its doors at 430 Wellington<br />
Street across from One London Place recently. The<br />
family owned business bakes all the European-style<br />
desserts from scratch, including specialty cakes,<br />
cupcakes and chocolates.<br />
Delighted to welcome you late fall <strong>2018</strong><br />
reserve@gracelondon.ca<br />
@gracerestaurantlondon<br />
@graceLDNONT<br />
FRESH.<br />
The essence of who we are.<br />
Visit us to sample over 70 oils and balsamics.<br />
Savour white & dark balsamic vinegars from Modena, Italy,<br />
paired with the freshest olive oils from across the globe.<br />
Bottling fresh in store since 2012.<br />
The<br />
Pristine<br />
live<br />
Est. 2012<br />
884 Adelaide Street N. | London | 519-433-4444<br />
www.thepristineolive.ca
40 | <strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
Keto Health Foods is on the move! As of <strong>September</strong><br />
8 they at a new location at 911 Commissioners Road<br />
East under a new name – ketolibriyum.<br />
Stratford<br />
Stratford is awash with culinary hubs where locals,<br />
visitors, chefs, farmers, artists and artisans gather,<br />
such as Market Square, Your Local Market Co-op, the<br />
Local Community Food Centre, Stratford Farmers’<br />
Market at the Agri-plex (on Saturdays) and the Slow<br />
Food Farmers’ Market (on Sundays). There are many<br />
great retailers like Bradshaws Kitchen Detail, Downie<br />
WHOLESALE<br />
HAND ROASTED<br />
COFFEE BEANS<br />
FROM MY BUSINESS<br />
TO YOUR BUSINESS<br />
Quality,<br />
Consistency,<br />
and Value<br />
... in the roasting,<br />
in the delivery,<br />
and in the price.<br />
New Location!<br />
1-141 WORTLEY RD.<br />
London, Now Open 6 Days<br />
TM<br />
Street Bakehouse (“Really Good Bread from the Wrong<br />
Side of the Tracks”), Watson’s Chelsea Bazaar and<br />
Milky Whey Fine Cheese Shop. The recently opened<br />
Grounded is Stratford’s only purely plant-based café.<br />
facebook.com/ Groundedraw/<br />
The Planet Diner, with candy-apple red upholstered<br />
booths and a ’50s vibe, is warm and welcoming,<br />
with enthusiastic and well-informed staff. Owner<br />
Dee Christensen says, “This is where herbivores can<br />
bring their carnivore friends.” Most items on the<br />
menu are derived from plant-based ingredients, but<br />
there are meat-based options. There’s just nothing<br />
like the Chick’un burger made in-house with vegan<br />
buffalo butter. Try the cashew-based banana split,<br />
bound to be a hit even with die-hard ice cream<br />
lovers. 118 Downie Street. theplanetdiner.com<br />
Digi Writing + Literary Festival: A literary festival<br />
with a culinary twist. The Appetite for Words<br />
Festival program is a partnership between the<br />
Stratford Writers Festival and Stratford Chefs<br />
School, featuring authors who have written about<br />
food and fiction writers who have food as a strong<br />
component of their novels. Chefs and students<br />
from Stratford Chefs School develop and prepare<br />
menus inspired by featured books so you can<br />
taste the words you’re reading. Appetite for Words<br />
revolves around storytelling and is created for the<br />
enthusiastic and curious — anyone interested in<br />
reading, discussing and consuming food (that’s you,<br />
right?). There will also be educational workshops<br />
and tasting sessions. At literary dinners and<br />
lunches, food is matched with authors’ readings, so<br />
participants can taste the words they’re hearing.<br />
During workshops, participants can build their<br />
skills and increase their knowledge of both<br />
the culinary and literary arts. From a literary<br />
picnic-style farm lunch to a food photography<br />
workshop, come whet your appetite for literature.<br />
stratfordwritersfestival.com/literary-events/<br />
appetite-for-words-festival/<br />
We have a Latte to be thankful for...<br />
and it’s Pumpkin Pie Spice Season!<br />
223 Colborne St., Port Stanley 519-782-7800 • 1-141 Wortley Rd., London 519-601-6610<br />
The Market at Western Fair, 900 King St. London Sat. 8–3 • www.peppertreespice.com
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
Olive Your Favourites let us know their new<br />
Southern Hemisphere extra virgin olive oils (EVOO)<br />
have arrived from Chile and South Africa and the<br />
customer-favourite Hojiblanca EVOO from Australia<br />
is due at any moment. oliveyourfavourites.com<br />
Raja Fine Indian Cuisine is the place for authentic<br />
Northern Indian food in Stratford. Raja offers upscale<br />
cuisine in sophisticated and elegant surroundings,<br />
and knowledgeable, well-trained staff. The service<br />
is white linen, and professional but friendly. Foods<br />
are prepared from scratch with fresh ingredients.<br />
The heat quotient of dishes can be adjusted to your<br />
preferences. Raja offers milder Indian fare such as<br />
Butter Chicken, Korma, and Tikka Masala. 10 George<br />
Street West, rajastratford.ca<br />
Milky Whey offers Cheese Pairings workshops<br />
starting <strong>October</strong> 27. visitstratford.ca/partner/The-<br />
Milky-Whey-Fine-Cheese-Shop<br />
The Bruce Restaurant offers delicious events<br />
including a complete take away Thanksgiving dinner!<br />
visitstratford.ca/partner/The-Bruce-Restaurant<br />
Savour Stratford Chocolate Trail. If you’re a chocoholic<br />
this is the trail for you! What could be better<br />
than spending an afternoon (or two) strolling<br />
Hey Cupcake!<br />
where art is<br />
a piece of cake<br />
The ORIGINAL<br />
LONDON CAKERY &<br />
GOURMET CUPCAKE<br />
BAKERY<br />
Fall Food Fest<br />
Saturday, <strong>September</strong> 29 10am–1pm<br />
Celebrate the harvest and come to the Farmers’<br />
Market for this annual family-friendly event.<br />
Celebrate our local farmers and enjoy the fall<br />
season. In partnership with Growing Chefs, we<br />
will be hosting a free<br />
corn roast, children’s<br />
activities, live music,<br />
a cooking class<br />
and a contest<br />
with local chefs.<br />
Family Pumpkin Patch<br />
Saturday, <strong>October</strong> 20 10am–1pm<br />
Enjoy lots of fun for the kids including crafts, a<br />
bouncy castle, face painting, entertainment,<br />
seasonal treats and more. Kids, don’t forget to<br />
dress up in your Halloween costumes!<br />
Vegan Cooking Workshop<br />
Thursday, <strong>September</strong> 20 6:30 pm–8:30 pm<br />
Learn to make fabulous vegan meals in a small<br />
class. You will cook, eat and take home all the<br />
yummy recipes. Go to our website to register!<br />
FREE Cooking Classes are held Saturdays,<br />
11am–noon, upstairs in the Market Kitchen,<br />
until <strong>September</strong> 22.<br />
FREE PARKING<br />
With Validation<br />
Half Hour Weekdays<br />
ASK US Custom Bakery • Walk-In Orders Available<br />
ABOUT OUR<br />
“RANDOM<br />
ACTS OF<br />
SWEETNESS!”<br />
CAMPAIGN<br />
www.heycupcake.ca<br />
275 Wharncliffe Rd. North<br />
519-433-CAKE (2253)<br />
STORE HOURS: Mon–Fri 11–7<br />
Saturday 10–5 • Sunday 11–4<br />
Market Hours<br />
Monday to Saturday<br />
Mezzanine & Restaurant Hours Differ
42 | <strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />
the Victorian streets of Stratford and sampling<br />
chocolate? The self-guided Chocolate Trail is<br />
offered year-round. Tickets are just $30 (+HST), are<br />
valid for one week from the date of purchase, and<br />
can be used at six of the 27 stops. visitstratford.ca/<br />
chocolatetrail<br />
Savour Stratford Bacon and Ale Trail. This selfguided<br />
walking trail includes vouchers that you<br />
can use at 5 stops. Each voucher will entitle you to<br />
a “tasting” of unique bacon and ale inspired treats<br />
and the chance to speak to Stratford and area’s<br />
“a gastronomical landmark for over 22 years”<br />
Bistro & Catering<br />
Lunch Mon–Fri<br />
Dinner Mon–Sat<br />
Dietary Needs Accommodated | Ample Free Parking<br />
Available for Private Parties<br />
46 Blackfriars Street, London | 519-667-4930<br />
blackfriarsbistro.com<br />
Far Out ...<br />
but we like it that way!<br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
culinary stars while visiting restaurants and retail<br />
locations. This trail is offered year-round and is<br />
valid for one week from the date of purchase ($30<br />
+HST). visitstratford.ca/bacontrail<br />
Around the Region<br />
Alton Farms Estate Winery, a pioneer estate winery<br />
and vineyard in Ontario’s emerging wine region,<br />
Huron Shores, is featured in this issue’s Wine<br />
column. In late-breaking news, the winery just<br />
celebrated their fifth anniversary with fresh new<br />
graphics and signage. altonfarmsestatewinery.com<br />
Lambton County continues to add to its fine list<br />
of beverage producers, which also includes Twin<br />
Pines Cider House in Lambton Shores, Refined Fool<br />
Brewing Co. in Sarnia, and the Munro Meadery<br />
in Alvinston. Just around the corner from Alton<br />
Farms Estate Winery, the Stonepicker Brewing<br />
Company taproom and retail outlet is now open,<br />
Thursday to Sunday. Partners Mary & Joe Donkers<br />
and Laura and Jim Soetemans are brewing ales,<br />
lagers and stouts from the Donkers farm, where<br />
they are also growing some of their own barley.<br />
7143 Forest Road, Plympton-Wyoming (Forest)<br />
stonepickerbrewingcompany.com<br />
Stonetown Artisan Cheese is a purveyor of Swiss<br />
mountain-style cheeses, hand-crafted by master<br />
cheesemaker Ramon Eberle. Using unpasteurized<br />
milk from farmers Hans and Jolanda Weber’s<br />
herd of Holsteins, Eberle uses raw milk so that the<br />
cheese ripens as naturally as possible while the<br />
flavours improve with maturation. Cheeses and<br />
other local products are available to buy on-site<br />
at the farm store. Guided group tours are $5 per<br />
person (60–90 minutes for a minimum 15 people).<br />
5021 Perth County Line 8 (Kirkton Road), St. Marys,<br />
519-229-6856, stonetowncheese.com<br />
Fat Olive, a new Italian-inspired family-friendly<br />
restaurant in Dorchester, has opened at 2135<br />
Dorchester Road. fatolive.ca<br />
Blair Rd<br />
London<br />
International<br />
Airport<br />
Crumlin Rd<br />
Oxford St<br />
½ Price<br />
Bottle of Wine Wednesdays<br />
$5<br />
| 16-oz Pints Thursdays |<br />
Check out our Stormy Skies &<br />
Caesar, Caesar, Caesar Sunday<br />
519-455-9005<br />
katanakafe.ca<br />
2530 Blair Rd, London<br />
Diamond Flight Centre<br />
Lunch Mon–Fri 11–3 • Dinner Wed–Sun from 5pm • Weekend Breakfast 9–12, Lunch 12–3, Dinner 5–9
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
Chris and Mary Woolf have ceased operations of<br />
Little Red’s in St Marys and retired at the end of<br />
August. Congratulations go out for two successful<br />
and celebrated careers in hospitality, and best wishes<br />
for many enjoyable years in retirement. Cheers!<br />
Heritage Grain Weekend and Bread Camp is an<br />
opportunity to educate and connect growers,<br />
millers, bakers and chefs who are creating a rise in<br />
demand for local grains. This program will increase<br />
a baker’s capacity to procure and utilize regionally<br />
grown whole grains to help build and develop the<br />
regional food shed. Bread Camp is for chefs, cooks<br />
and bakers, and those with an interest in baking<br />
who want to gain more knowledge in the versatility<br />
of using specialty grains. <strong>October</strong> 19, 20 and 21.<br />
cktable.ca/regenerate-event-weekend-<strong>2018</strong>/<br />
Taste Detours highlights Guelph’s history by mapping<br />
it from one culinary experience to the next, offering an<br />
authentic “taste of place.” Lynn Broughton, founder<br />
of Taste Detours (tastedetours.ca, 1-866-736-6343),<br />
is a certified Food Tour Professional, a passionate<br />
and knowledgeable guide. Guelph has stunning<br />
architecture, a strong cultural fabric and a rich history<br />
that Taste Detours explores through food and drink<br />
experiences. tastedetours.ca<br />
Living<br />
Energy!<br />
Conveniently packaged, living and ready to eat.<br />
Just snip, rinse & serve!<br />
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44 | <strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />
Since 1969 Kitchener-Waterloo Oktoberfest has<br />
developed its own traditions, combining the largest<br />
Bavarian festival in North America with the greatest<br />
Thanksgiving Day Parade in Canada. Thousands of<br />
visitors celebrate annually in the Festhallen and<br />
by attending one or more of 40 family and cultural<br />
events. The local economy is stimulated through the<br />
celebration of this spirit of Gemuetlichkeit, and over<br />
70 charities and not-for-profit organizations raise<br />
funds to support the high quality of life enjoyed in<br />
Kitchener-Waterloo. Tickets for the 50th Anniversary<br />
event (<strong>October</strong> 5–13) are on sale now. oktoberfest.ca<br />
Experience Hessenland Inn & Vineyard<br />
Where heritage is infused into every vine and vintage<br />
Join us for one of our<br />
Signature Events & Experiences!<br />
• Thanksgiving Buffet & Dinner<br />
• 3rd Annual Long Table Dinner<br />
• Novemberfest<br />
• Fall SOULitude & MORE!<br />
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Reservations required for all events<br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
Early Bird Coffee will be moving to 815 Juliana<br />
Drive in Woodstock. Their focus is on producing<br />
top quality coffee that is sustainable, economically<br />
supportive. early-bird.ca<br />
Truffle Camp: Handcraft a dozen of your own<br />
delicious and gourmet truffles alongside Cindy<br />
Walker of Chocolatea. Learn how to use flavours<br />
from Southwestern Ontario to create a selection<br />
of delicious ganaches as you step into the role of<br />
chocolatier. $75.00 per person + HST. Chocolatea,<br />
Ingersoll, chocolatea.ca/product/truffle-camp<br />
Preserving Workshops: Join Rural Oxford and Chef<br />
Murray Zehr to learn how to preserve the season’s<br />
freshest produce. From workshops on salsa and<br />
beets to apples 101, you’ll love exploring ways to eat<br />
local all year long. roedc.ca/preserving<br />
A Taste Of Port is celebrating the food of Central<br />
Elgin, and the wine and craft beers of the region.<br />
Come and join them as they launch the first Food<br />
Festival <strong>September</strong> 21 to 23 in beautiful Port<br />
Stanley. portstanley.net/a-taste-of-port/<br />
A trip to Port wouldn’t be the same without a stop<br />
at Shaw’s Ice Cream. It’s been serving up “delicious<br />
old fashioned ice cream made the way it should be”<br />
and is celebrating its 75th birthday. Shaw’s offers<br />
a wide selection of hard ice cream, fruit sorbets,<br />
frozen yogurt, thick milkshakes, decadent sundaes<br />
and celebratory ice cream cakes. 6598 Sunset Drive,<br />
St. Thomas. 519-631-2510. shawsicecream.com<br />
Ottercreek Woodworks is opening their doors<br />
to offer an exclusive Tree to Table Experience to<br />
visitors interested in crafting a beautiful live-edge<br />
charcuterie board with the woodworker himself.<br />
Explore a Carolinian forest, savour a charcuteriestyle<br />
lunch and of course, create something<br />
beautiful with your own hands in an environmentally<br />
conscious way. $250.00 per person + HST, Ottercreek<br />
Woodworks, Burgessville. ottercreekwoodworks.ca.<br />
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Reservations Recommended
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
In case you missed our story online about<br />
truLOCAL, check the link at eatdrink.ca/dealingwith-dragons-trulocal-focuses-on-the-meat-ofthe-matter/.<br />
This home delivery service has some<br />
cool options for purchasing quality local proteins<br />
and for a limited time is offering <strong>Eatdrink</strong> readers<br />
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The 12th Annual Taste Real Fall Rural Romp is a<br />
self-guided tour of Guelph and Southern Wellington<br />
County farms, markets and local food businesses.<br />
Experience a day in the countryside, meet local<br />
farmers, eat, learn about food and experience the<br />
local bounty. Saturday <strong>September</strong> 29. wellington.<br />
ca/en/business/tr-fallruralromp.aspx<br />
We want your BUZZ!<br />
Do you have culinary news or upcoming events<br />
that you’d like us to share?<br />
Every issue, <strong>Eatdrink</strong> reaches more than<br />
50,000 readers across Southwestern Ontario<br />
in print, and thousands more online.<br />
Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca and/or<br />
connect directly with our Social Media Editor<br />
Bryan Lavery at bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />
Submission deadline for the next issue is <strong>October</strong> 5.<br />
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46 | <strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />
In Memoriam<br />
Paul Leigh Smith, 1928–<strong>2018</strong><br />
Founder of Hasbeans, Covent Garden Market<br />
Contributed by Joel McMillan<br />
“It’s for you, Papa.” I say handing him the phone.<br />
“Oh, hello Sandra, you’re looking well!” He’s<br />
got that sparkle in his eye, with a laugh just below<br />
the surface. I often wondered how many people<br />
he caught off guard with that simple greeting. Did<br />
they thank him with an automatic response and<br />
then later think, “Hey, wait a minute ... what? Is he<br />
watching me?!”<br />
That was him. Constantly cracking jokes, ranging<br />
from ridiculously inappropriate to little kid corny<br />
“dad” jokes. He also had an amazing ability to call up<br />
images from his past, images that would transport<br />
you to the very places that had affected him with<br />
so much awe and wonder. Whether he was driving<br />
through mountain ranges or sitting on his deck up<br />
north by the lake or with people from back in the day,<br />
you were there with him through his words.<br />
I think one of the most inspiring aspects of Papa<br />
was his ability to immerse himself in business without<br />
becoming inhuman. I believe that’s why he was able to<br />
overcome the many obstacles that any entrepreneur<br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
faces. Many many<br />
years ago, when his<br />
father Paul Smith Sr.<br />
ran businesses in the<br />
market, Papa was<br />
filling in the blanks<br />
and doing a lot of<br />
damage control. With<br />
the help of my mom<br />
Deb, Papa’s daughter<br />
who started working<br />
with Papa at a very<br />
young age, and with<br />
his head held high,<br />
he pulled those<br />
businesses out of debt and continued to evolve and<br />
better himself and the whole family.<br />
When he conceived of Hasbeans in 1969, Papa<br />
was truly swimming in unknown waters. Coffee<br />
roasting was absolutely unheard of in North<br />
America. It didn’t take long to catch on though, and<br />
Hasbeans has been (wink wink nudge nudge) firing<br />
delicious coffee into your mouths since!<br />
You might have known my Papa as a man who<br />
kicked alcohol 50 years ago. You might have known<br />
him as a man who smiles and plays with your kids<br />
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when your family swings by the market. You might<br />
have known him to help you when life felt it was<br />
at its worse, to guide you to a better you. He truly<br />
was an inspiration to everyone he crossed paths<br />
with and his mark has been softly yet permanently<br />
recorded in many of our hearts.<br />
As Mom and I fully take over the reigns of the<br />
shop and all that it means to run a business in this<br />
modern world, I’m reminded of the love, time, and<br />
Anthony Michael Bourdain, 1956–<strong>2018</strong><br />
Chef, writer and broadcaster<br />
Contributed by Holly Granken<br />
When we heard the news that Anthony<br />
Bourdain had taken his own life, we were in<br />
shock. In one way or another, he had an impact<br />
on anyone who works in a kitchen. He was<br />
cool, he was a bad-ass and he worked damn<br />
hard — something all of us pride ourselves<br />
on. We read his books, we watched his shows,<br />
he was awesome. I wanted to do something<br />
to honour him. I’ve always loved the cover of<br />
Kitchen Confidential. It’s a photo of a young Tony<br />
with two other chefs. They’re leaning against a<br />
graffiti-covered wall holding huge knives with<br />
self-satisfied smirks on their faces. I wanted to<br />
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<strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 47<br />
energy Deb and Paul put into this glorious little<br />
magic bean shop. The sacrifices were worth it, and I<br />
know he will live on through us, the fourth and fifth<br />
generation in the market. I wouldn’t be half the man<br />
I am today without his soul, love and charity. Come<br />
on by the shop if you miss him. He will always be<br />
there ... crackin’ jokes.<br />
— Joel McMillan is Paul Smith’s grandson and a<br />
proprietor at Hasbeans in Covent Garden Market.<br />
recreate that golden moment with my own crew. I<br />
hope you will consider this for publication.<br />
— Holly Granken is a photographer (Studio 575)<br />
and a baker at Plant Matter Bistro in London.<br />
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48 | <strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
Theatre<br />
World Curious, London Proud<br />
This Season at The Grand Theatre<br />
By JANE ANTONIAK<br />
The culinary world often champions<br />
the eating local philosophy. At the<br />
Grand Theatre in London, artistic<br />
director Dennis Garnhum puts his<br />
own spin on the local movement. The Grand’s<br />
vision is to be “World Curious, London<br />
Proud.” The new season of 12 productions on<br />
two stages, which kicks off in <strong>September</strong> with<br />
the High School Project and wraps up in May<br />
with Mamma Mia!, pays tribute to this vision<br />
with internationally acclaimed and locallyinfused<br />
productions.<br />
Local<br />
It all starts with a uniquely London tradition:<br />
The High School Project and the controversial<br />
decision to produce Prom Queen: The Musical.<br />
There was criticism from some long-time<br />
educational partners who felt the topic was<br />
not appropriate for younger audiences, but<br />
the controversy spurred on a successful<br />
crowd-funding campaign. In turn, The Grand<br />
announced it would use the funds to offer<br />
1,600 complimentary tickets to schools. It<br />
runs <strong>September</strong> 18 to 29. Meanwhile advance<br />
sales have doubled over the previous season,<br />
according to The Grand. The production,<br />
directed by Garnhum, stars London high school<br />
student Devon Kenway and features more<br />
than 50 students on stage and another 30 back<br />
David Webber and Fisayo Akinade in Barber Shop Chronicles<br />
at The National Theatre. Photo by Marc Brenner<br />
stage. They receive mentoring by professionals<br />
in all aspects of theatre production through<br />
this unique program, now it its 22nd year.<br />
Prom Queen was developed by the Musical<br />
Theatre Project at Sheridan College. It is based<br />
on the real-life story of a teenager, Marc Hall,<br />
who wanted to bring his same-sex partner to<br />
the high school prom, and the controversy<br />
that ensued. It is described as being suited for<br />
youth in Grade 7 and beyond.<br />
Vigilante, the story of the locally famous<br />
Black Donnellys of Lucan — think 1880s<br />
massacre in a rural setting with a modernday<br />
rock musical score — returns to the<br />
Grand February 19 to March 9. It was last<br />
here in 2016, when it played to sold-out<br />
houses. Ironically, it is an Edmonton company,<br />
Catalyst Theatre, which tells the story<br />
so many locals know by heart.<br />
World<br />
Being “world curious” is depicted by Garnhum’s<br />
accomplishment in bringing Barber Shop<br />
Chronicles from the National Theatre in London,<br />
England to this London for its only Canadian<br />
performance. As of late June, the show was<br />
already 50% sold out for the run from November<br />
15 to 24 on the Spriet Stage. This high-energy<br />
production takes the audience to barber<br />
shops around the world to hear discussions by<br />
African men. From our London it<br />
heads to the Kennedy Centre in<br />
Washington, D.C. We are certainly<br />
fortunate to have Garnhum<br />
spotting such hits and bringing<br />
them to our community.<br />
The Brits return at Christmas<br />
with the second annual production<br />
of A Christmas Carol,<br />
December 5 to 29. This is a<br />
reprise of Garnhum’s spectacular<br />
adaptation of 2017, featuring iceskating,<br />
ghosts, and the re-birth<br />
of the human spirit. This year<br />
theatre-goers will see the lobby
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
transformed into an artisanal market with local<br />
vendors, artists, carolers and more, including<br />
treats and cider. This is sure to warm your holiday<br />
season!<br />
Our American neighbours bring us the<br />
Pulitzer Prize-winning production of August<br />
Wilson’s Fences, March 19 to April 6. This is a<br />
look at Pittsburgh in the 1950s through the<br />
eyes of a former Negro League baseball star,<br />
now a garbage collector.<br />
National<br />
The Grand has a focus on global and local<br />
stories, as well as being proudly national with<br />
the beloved story of Maggie & Pierre as well<br />
as Margaret Atwood’s The Penelopiad, which is<br />
directed by Canadian Megan Follows.<br />
If you reach far enough back in the time<br />
machine you will remember Follows as Anne<br />
of Green Gables, or as Juliet at the Stratford<br />
Festival opposite a young Antoni Cimolino.<br />
This Canadian-made story retells Homer’s<br />
Odyssey through the eyes of Penelope, the wife<br />
of Odysseus. It runs January 22 to February 9.<br />
For those with long theatrical memories<br />
or who were swept up in Trudeaumania, the<br />
nostalgic show of the season will be Maggie<br />
& Pierre. This epic Canadian love story runs<br />
February 12 to 23, and has already been<br />
extended. The one-woman show tells the story<br />
of a young Maggie Sinclair falling in love with<br />
Canada’s dashing, and much older, Prime<br />
Minister Pierre Elliot Trudeau. I first saw this<br />
as a teenager in Toronto and can’t wait to see<br />
it again decades later! It stars Kaitlyn Riordan<br />
who portrays many characters, including the<br />
love-struck couple, their parents, members of<br />
the media, and more.<br />
Timothy Findley’s The Wars runs from <strong>October</strong> 23 to, fittingly,<br />
November 11, the 100th anniversary of The Great War.<br />
PortStanley FestivalTheatre<br />
IMPROV<br />
NIGHT<br />
Cash Bar, Appezers & Laughs!<br />
Join Us for a Night of Holiday Improv<br />
Saturday December 1 8pm<br />
LINK theatre & PortStanleyFestivalTheatre<br />
presents a really Retro<br />
CROONER Christmas<br />
featuring Rick Kish<br />
& Connor Boa<br />
with those<br />
fabulous Croonettes<br />
&The Nevin<br />
Campbell Trio<br />
Saturday December 8<br />
2pm & 8pm<br />
$<br />
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BUY BOTH EVENTS FOR $ 50*<br />
these Events are PSFT Fundraisers<br />
*Prices subject to HST/Handling<br />
To Purchase Tickets<br />
519-782-4353 www.ps.ca<br />
acknowledgment of the 100th anniversary of<br />
the end of WWI, known as the war that was<br />
supposed to end all wars. This fittingly runs<br />
in the weeks leading up to Remembrance Day,<br />
<strong>October</strong> 23 to November 11 — a poignant day<br />
to close the show. There will be several events<br />
around this production including a pre-show<br />
theatre talk on November 7 at noon by James<br />
Reaney, long-time London Free Press arts<br />
writer (now retired).<br />
Another Ontario journalist, Ian<br />
Brown (CBC, Globe and Mail), brings<br />
us The Boy in the Moon, November<br />
20 to December 1. It is based on a<br />
true story of a family that includes a<br />
severely disabled son, Walker.<br />
The Grand season wraps up with<br />
the feel-good musical, Mamma Mia!<br />
April 23 to May 11, 2019. The music of<br />
Abba, and a complicated love/family<br />
story will take us into the summer on<br />
a high note!<br />
A “world curious” production with a<br />
national slant is The Wars by Timothy Findley.<br />
Adapted and directed by Garnhum, it is his<br />
JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to <strong>Eatdrink</strong>.<br />
She is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations,<br />
at King’s University College in London.
50 | <strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />
<strong>2018</strong>/1<br />
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From London, England’s National Theatre<br />
Barber Shop<br />
Chronicles<br />
The global smash-hit musical<br />
The Donnellys return in this pulsing rock musical<br />
Vigilante<br />
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eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
<strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 51<br />
Music<br />
Change of Season<br />
Upcoming Highlights on the Music Scene<br />
By GERRY BLACKWELL<br />
Photo by Rachelle Richard-Léger<br />
The season has begun. That’s what<br />
they used to call it, when all the<br />
cultural and social events in a city<br />
started again in the fall: the season.<br />
London this year has an exciting jam-packed<br />
music season, with something for everyone.<br />
Roxanne Potvin<br />
Kick it off with Montreal-based Junonominated<br />
singer-songwriter Roxanne Potvin<br />
at London Music Club Friday, <strong>September</strong><br />
14. Potvin is touring a new five-song EP, a<br />
follow-up to her 2016 album, For Dreaming.<br />
Know her name, but can’t place Potvin’s music?<br />
Check it out here: goo.gl/Zwnk7A.<br />
Also on <strong>September</strong> 14, Stratford’s Revival<br />
House (revival.house) presents Gypsy Kumbia<br />
Orchestra from Montreal, a potent mix of<br />
Afro-Colombian music and dance, with the<br />
brass and violin melodies of Eastern Europe,<br />
combining live music, choreographed dance,<br />
circus, theatrical staging and dynamic audience<br />
interaction. Taking over dance floors wherever<br />
they go, the 16-piece Juno-nominated group<br />
Gypsy Kumbia<br />
Orchestra<br />
formed three years ago and has won numerous<br />
awards. They will also participate in the TD<br />
Sunfest World Music & Jazz Series with<br />
an appearance at Aeolian Hall on Saturday,<br />
<strong>October</strong> 13, where they received an enthusiastic<br />
reception back in May. sunfest.on.ca<br />
Then on Saturday, <strong>September</strong> 15, London<br />
Symphonia, the surviving core of the old<br />
Orchestra London, kicks off its season<br />
at Metropolitan United Church with<br />
“Revolutionary Tales.” The program features<br />
rising star Kerson Leong in Sergei Prokofiev’s<br />
Violin Concerto No. 1 and Hector Berlioz’s<br />
great Symphonie Fantastique. CBC Radio host<br />
Tom Allen emcees the evening.<br />
London’s venerable Jazz for the People<br />
series keeps trucking along. The fall season<br />
opens Wednesday, <strong>September</strong> 19 at Wolf<br />
Performance Hall with a show featuring<br />
vocalist Rick Kish and The Ken Foster<br />
Quartet. It’s always free, always fun.<br />
Magisterra<br />
Soloists<br />
Classical music seems to be undergoing a<br />
renaissance in London. Magisterra Soloists<br />
is a relatively new chamber music ensemble<br />
in town — based here but touring widely. The<br />
musicians kick off their season at Museum<br />
London on Thursday, <strong>September</strong> 20 with<br />
“Aimez-vous Brahms?” The concert features<br />
guest soloists Kyoko Hasimoto, a Montrealbased<br />
pianist, and world-renowned Dutch<br />
Photo by Viara Mileva
52 | <strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />
violist and composer Vladimir Mendelssohn.<br />
The program includes Brahms’ iconic G-minor<br />
piano quartet, and a less familiar work, the<br />
powerful piano quintet by Louis Victor Jules<br />
Vierne (1870-1937).<br />
Dala<br />
Aeolian Hall has a great season this fall.<br />
Dala, an award-winning folk duo with<br />
heavenly harmonies, is in Friday, <strong>September</strong><br />
28. Amanda Walther and Sheila Carabine<br />
have been singing together since high school,<br />
and writing insightful folk songs for almost<br />
as long. They always turn in a polished,<br />
entertaining performance.<br />
If folk is your flavour, the Cuckoo’s Nest<br />
Folk Club is the (other) place to be. The longrunning<br />
series is on at Chaucer’s Pub for<br />
another season. On Monday, <strong>October</strong> 1, direct<br />
from Scotland, it’s North Sea Gas! Don’t know<br />
the Gas? Check ‘em out here: goo.gl/a18hzm.<br />
Hint: it’s three Scottish blokes playing spirited<br />
Celtic folk music. You really can’t go wrong.<br />
Speaking of Celtic, Jimmy Rankin of the<br />
Rankin Family is at Aeolian Hall on Wednesday,<br />
<strong>October</strong> 3. Rankin recently moved back to Nova<br />
Scotia from Nashville and is touring a new<br />
album, aptly named Moving East. It’s billed as a<br />
Cape Breton kitchen party on disc and features<br />
his trademark east-coast folk-rock sound. “I<br />
was trying<br />
to distill<br />
the fabric<br />
of Maritime<br />
culture into<br />
a musical<br />
collection<br />
replete with<br />
life’s highs<br />
and lows,”<br />
Rankin<br />
says of the<br />
album.<br />
The music<br />
performance<br />
Jimmy Rankin<br />
schedule<br />
at Western<br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
U’s Music Faculty gets into high gear when<br />
renowned American concert pianist Sara<br />
Davis Buechner appears Friday, <strong>October</strong> 5.<br />
She plays at the Paul Davenport Theatre in<br />
Talbot College. Buechner appears as part of the<br />
Parsons and Poole Legacy Concert series, created<br />
to honour pioneering Music Faculty members<br />
Margaret Parsons and Clifford Poole. For<br />
more about Western Music: goo.gl/YUs1vo.<br />
Yet another memorial concert series, the<br />
Jeffery Concerts, is bringing in internationally<br />
praised Canadian concert violinist James<br />
Ehnes. The Guardian newspaper called Ehnes,<br />
“effusively lyrical … hair-raisingly virtuosic.”<br />
He appears with pianist and frequent recording<br />
and performing partner Andrew Armstrong.<br />
They’re at Wolf Performance Hall on<br />
Wednesday, <strong>October</strong> 10. The program includes<br />
works by Beethoven, Ravel, Brahms and 20th<br />
century American composer John Corigliano.<br />
James Ehnes<br />
You see what we mean about a renaissance<br />
of classical music. But if classical isn’t your cup<br />
of tea, how about good ol’ Jann Arden. The<br />
much-loved Canadian singer-songwriter —<br />
and broadcaster, speaker, actor and author —<br />
is at Budweiser Gardens, also on Wednesday,<br />
<strong>October</strong> 10. Arden has a new album, These Are<br />
The Days. The London date kicks off a national<br />
tour for the disc.<br />
The TD Sunfest World Music & Jazz Series<br />
<strong>2018</strong>-19 is bringing multi-award-winning<br />
British folk trio The Young’uns to the<br />
The Young’uns
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
Cuckoo’s Nest Folk Club (Chaucer’s Pub) on<br />
Monday, <strong>October</strong> 15. The Young’uns, a capella<br />
specialists, sing traditional English and modern<br />
folk songs, including their own compositions.<br />
They have a new-ish album, 2017’s Strangers.<br />
Check out their music here: goo.gl/uFk2PH.<br />
Down the road in Chatham<br />
that same Wednesday, <strong>October</strong><br />
15, it’s another multi-awardwinner,<br />
big-voiced home-grown<br />
indie-rock star Serena Ryder.<br />
She’s at the Capitol Theatre (238<br />
King St. W.) Ryder scarcely needs<br />
an introduction. She’s been<br />
wowing audiences at home in<br />
Canada and abroad for 20 years.<br />
She now has 10 albums to her<br />
credit, including last year’s twodisc<br />
Utopia. Big star, big show.<br />
London Symphonia is back<br />
on Tuesday, <strong>October</strong> 16, this time<br />
at Talbot Street Church, and with<br />
just the LS Winds. They’re playing<br />
an interesting program of works by modern<br />
composers with a London connection — Western<br />
U grad Jeff Smallman, former Music Faculty<br />
member Kenneth Bray and London-based jazz<br />
<strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 53<br />
guitarist (and former UWO English prof) Oliver<br />
Whitehead. They’re also playing works by a couple<br />
of other guys called Brahms and Mozart.<br />
Prog-rock pioneers The Strawbs are at<br />
Aeolian Hall, also on Tuesday, <strong>October</strong> 16.<br />
They’re billing it as their farewell electric tour,<br />
the last time featuring the<br />
full band. The lineup includes<br />
original members Dave<br />
Cousins, Dave Lambert, Chas<br />
Cronk and Tony Fernandez,<br />
who were all there for the<br />
band’s classic 1970s albums.<br />
The group started over 50 years<br />
ago, double-billing early on<br />
with another up-and-coming<br />
band, The Rolling Stones.<br />
They played bluegrass at first,<br />
then folk-rock, then evolved<br />
to a more layered, melotronic<br />
Serena Ryder<br />
sound. Half a century on, the<br />
Strawbs still draw raves.<br />
It’s a busy week of music in<br />
the city. There’s another Jazz for the People<br />
at Wolf Performance Hall on Wednesday,<br />
<strong>October</strong> 17, this time featuring The Four<br />
Trombones. We’re guessing it’s not the 1950s<br />
DIGGIN’<br />
DUNDAS<br />
SHARE THE LOVE & WIN<br />
#DigginDundas
54 | <strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
combo featuring Kai Winding, but it should<br />
still be fun if it really does feature four bones.<br />
Then it’s Australian roots music guitar prodigy<br />
Daniel Champagne at the London Music Club<br />
on Thursday, <strong>October</strong> 18. “He coaxes sounds<br />
and melodies out of his instrument that<br />
literally drop jaws,” says The Calgary Herald.<br />
ing new students into professional music studio<br />
mmunity<br />
lifelong gift of music<br />
Jill Barber<br />
s<br />
, encouraging, understanding<br />
It gets even better on the weekend at<br />
Aeolian Hall. First, it’s two dates with jazz<br />
sweetheart Jill Barber — she of the smoky<br />
voice and retro arrangements — first on<br />
Friday, <strong>October</strong> 19, then again Saturday,<br />
<strong>October</strong> 20. Barber’s latest album, Metaphora,<br />
dropped in June. Legendary Canadian concert<br />
Develop skills & a love for music<br />
PIANO LESSONS<br />
pianist André Laplante is in the next night,<br />
Sunday, <strong>October</strong> 21. Laplante has played all<br />
over Canada and around the world with great<br />
orchestras, and records prolifically. A rare<br />
opportunity to see a master play.<br />
The next Parsons & Poole Legacy Concert<br />
goes Friday, <strong>October</strong> 27, 11 a.m. at the Paul<br />
Davenport Theatre in Talbot College. It<br />
features award-winning young Canadian<br />
concert pianist Charles Richard-Hamelin<br />
— who was a student of Laplante’s, and also<br />
records on the Quebec-based Analekta label<br />
where Laplante has long been a mainstay.<br />
Remember Centennial Hall? It still gets<br />
the occasional name act, sometimes great big<br />
ones. On Friday, November 2, former Great<br />
Big Sea front man Alan Doyle and his band,<br />
along with special guest Whitney Rose, are<br />
in to play some Newfoundland Celtic rock.<br />
They’re also at the Imperial Theatre in Sarnia<br />
the next night, part of the summer leg of<br />
Doyle’s #ComeOutWithMe tour. Should be a<br />
rollicking good time.<br />
The Jeffery Concerts has Quartetto di<br />
Cremona at Wolf Performance Hall on Friday,<br />
November 9. Founded in Cremona, Italy, the<br />
group plays historic instruments, including<br />
Stradivari, performs all over the world,<br />
records on the Audite label and routinely<br />
draws rave reviews. The all-Italian program<br />
includes works by Boccherini, Verdi, Puccini<br />
and Respighi. jefferyconcerts.com<br />
Liona Boyd<br />
Experienced Piano/Theory Teacher<br />
now accepting new students<br />
Individual Instruction for All Ages<br />
Compassionate, Caring, Encouraging<br />
Home-based Professional Music Studio<br />
Royal Conservatory Exam Preparation<br />
University Piano Proficiency Preparation<br />
Beth Hickey, BA (MUS)<br />
North London<br />
bhickey57@hotmail.com 519-432-4022<br />
Best for last? Liona Boyd is at Aeolian Hall<br />
on Tuesday, November 13. Boyd, a legendary<br />
cross-over figure in the classical world, has<br />
played everywhere and everything since her<br />
debut in 1975. She used to open for Gordon<br />
Lightfoot, and has performed with Chet<br />
Atkins, Eric Clapton and Yo Yo Ma, to name a<br />
few. Don’t miss an intimate evening with the<br />
first lady of guitar.<br />
GERRY BLACKWELL is a London-based freelance<br />
writer.
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
<strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 55<br />
Recipes<br />
From Farm to Table to Page<br />
Forest City Cookbook<br />
By Alieska Robles<br />
Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN<br />
If you’re not paying attention, London<br />
might seem a little ... beige (as I once<br />
heard it described by comedian Billy<br />
Connolly). Fortunately, Alieska Robles<br />
has experience finding the heart of a place.<br />
She was raised in Caracas, Venezuela and<br />
spent several years in Buenos Aires, Argentina<br />
before relocating to London. Once here,<br />
she went looking for the vibrant network of<br />
people that make up the local food movement<br />
in London. The result of this labour of love<br />
of nearly two years is Forest City Cookbook<br />
(Alieska Robles; self-published; <strong>2018</strong>).<br />
The best cookbooks, to me, are stories of<br />
people and their traditions, our memories of the<br />
past and our connections to our communities.<br />
Forest City Cookbook focuses on local producers,<br />
artisans and chefs in the London region. It’s<br />
organized not by courses but by producers,<br />
and offers recipes from local chefs using the<br />
highlighted ingredients. I love this approach as it<br />
allows you to choose a recipe based on what you<br />
have on hand. It’s easy to forget but traditionally<br />
cooking is ingredient driven. If you have<br />
peaches, you make something with peaches.<br />
There’s a guide to seasonal produce in the back<br />
of the book to help you plan for that.<br />
The author’s well-travelled<br />
parents exposed her to many<br />
different cultures, leaving<br />
her with a love of antiques,<br />
collectibles and cookbooks.<br />
This is reflected in her<br />
wonderful photography, which<br />
is unusually dark (but very<br />
effective) for a cookbook. The<br />
refreshing approach gives you<br />
the feeling of an old-fashioned,<br />
slower way of life while<br />
highlighting modern food.<br />
Forest City Cookbook has<br />
more than a few surprises. I<br />
had no idea<br />
that we had<br />
local producers<br />
of wild<br />
boar but<br />
Perth Pork<br />
Products<br />
offers it<br />
among<br />
its selection<br />
of<br />
heritage<br />
breed<br />
meats.<br />
David<br />
Bistro’s chef<br />
Elvis Drennan’s recipe for<br />
Honey & Rosemary Glazed Wild Boar combines<br />
this delicious meat with a tart cherry<br />
compote. A potato rosti with sauerkraut adds<br />
a beautiful touch of crispy and tangy. Served<br />
with fresh green beans, it’s the kind of dish<br />
that, without being too technically difficult,<br />
makes you look like a genius in the kitchen.<br />
I love fruit crisps because they are easy<br />
to prepare and adjust to whatever fruit you<br />
have on hand. Juliana Guy Wesseling won the<br />
<strong>Eatdrink</strong>/Forest City Cookbook<br />
original recipe contest using<br />
all local ingredients. Her<br />
Apple Crisp recipe takes<br />
this humble dessert to new<br />
heights. Generous portions<br />
of fruit and crumble topping<br />
are pushed over the top with<br />
a candied bacon caramel<br />
sauce and Gunn’s Hill 5<br />
Brothers Reserve Cheese.<br />
This dish ticks all the yummy<br />
boxes, and then some.<br />
Author/photographer Alieska Robles
56 | <strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
Forest City Cookbook is focused on<br />
community. There’s a special mention of Urban<br />
Roots, a non-profit dedicated to utilizing<br />
underused city space to grow fresh food. Its<br />
goal is to reduce food insecurity by facilitating<br />
the placement of urban farm plots throughout<br />
London. <strong>Eatdrink</strong>’s Food Editor Bryan Lavery<br />
contributed the cookbook’s foreword and a<br />
summary of local culinary history. His recipe<br />
for Roasted Vegetable Terrine is an ideal way<br />
to bring a variety of these vegetables together<br />
while keeping their flavours and textures<br />
intact. Infinitely variable, it can be served as an<br />
appetizer or main course and tastes as amazing<br />
as it looks.<br />
Alieska Robles’s Forest City Cookbook<br />
connects the dots between all the players in<br />
the local farm-to-table community. It’s the<br />
story of our city and some of the people who<br />
work so hard to make it a special place to be:<br />
producers, educators, suppliers, chefs and<br />
artists. Robles looks at London with fresh<br />
eyes and shows us what we may have missed<br />
in our complacency. Sometimes it takes a new<br />
perspective to make you appreciate how good<br />
we have it.<br />
TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer<br />
in London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com<br />
Recipes excerpted from Forest City Cookbook<br />
reproduced by arrangement with the Publisher.<br />
All rights reserved.<br />
Apple Crisp<br />
with Candied Bacon, Bacon Caramel Sauce & Aged Cheese<br />
by JULIANNA GUY WESSELING<br />
Prep: 35 Minutes • Cook: 1 Hour 30 Minutes<br />
Serves 8<br />
Apples • Dessert • Easy<br />
Apple crumble and apple pie<br />
with cheddar have always<br />
been top contenders on my<br />
father’s favourite desserts<br />
list. He would even ask for<br />
them instead of birthday cake!<br />
This recipe quickly became<br />
my family’s “go-to” dessert<br />
but needed a little “extra<br />
something” to be a contestwinning<br />
recipe for submitting<br />
to the <strong>Eatdrink</strong> magazine<br />
recipe contest. Combining<br />
sweet and peppery bacon with<br />
creamy, salty caramel, and<br />
sharp aged cheese is a twist<br />
on a classic that is sure to<br />
impress!<br />
CRUMB TOPPING<br />
¾ cup flour<br />
1 cup quick oats<br />
¼ cup packed brown sugar<br />
2 Tbsp sugar<br />
½ tsp salt<br />
⅔ cup butter, frozen, grated<br />
love<br />
In a large bowl, mix flour, oats,<br />
brown sugar, white sugar and salt.
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
Using your hands or a pastry blender, cut the butter into<br />
the flour (the butter should hold its shape when pressed).<br />
Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until the apple<br />
filling is ready.<br />
FILLING (makes 6 cups)<br />
⅓ cup sugar<br />
1 Tbsp cornstarch<br />
¼ tsp ground nutmeg<br />
2 tsp ground cinnamon<br />
8 medium Royal Gala apples, peeled, medium<br />
diced<br />
1 Tbsp apple cider vinegar<br />
love<br />
In a large bowl, combine sugar and cornstarch. Add<br />
nutmeg, cinnamon and apples. Drizzle with vinegar and<br />
toss until the apples are evenly coated.<br />
APPLE CRISP<br />
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the apple filling into a 9x9<br />
baking dish. Evenly cover the apples with crumb topping,<br />
making sure to fill all the little nooks and crannies around<br />
the sides. Bake for 45–55 minutes or until golden brown<br />
and bubbling.<br />
CHEF NOTE: Don’t worry, the mound of apples will cook<br />
down!<br />
CANDIED BACON<br />
500 g double smoked bacon, thinly sliced<br />
½ cup brown sugar<br />
freshly cracked black pepper<br />
love<br />
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Evenly<br />
distribute the bacon and generously cover each strip with<br />
brown sugar. Evenly sprinkle the black pepper and bake<br />
for 15-20 minutes until glazed and crispy. Rotate halfway<br />
through. Remove from oven and allow to cool. Try not to<br />
eat it all!<br />
CANDIED BACON CARAMEL SAUCE<br />
1 cup sugar<br />
2 Tbsp water<br />
¼ cup candied bacon, crumbled<br />
¼ cup butter, cubed<br />
¾ cup 35% cream<br />
love<br />
In a medium pot, bring sugar and water to a boil over<br />
medium heat. Reduce the heat and simmer for 6-8 minutes<br />
without stirring, occasionally swirling the pot until the<br />
caramel reaches a medium amber colour. Add the candied<br />
bacon to the caramel and remove from heat. Add butter<br />
and cream and whisk until well combined. Transfer to a<br />
glass jar and allow to cool until ready to use.<br />
FINISH<br />
200 g Gunn’s Hill Five Brothers Reserve Cheese<br />
In a deep plate, scoop a portion of the apple crisp, drizzle<br />
with caramel sauce, add a few pieces of Five Brother’s<br />
Cheese and top with a strip of candied bacon. Enjoy!<br />
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58 | <strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
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eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
Honey & Rosemary Glazed Wild Boar<br />
with Cherry Compote, Green Beans & Sauerkraut Roti<br />
by ELVIS DRENNAN<br />
Prep: 20 Minutes • Cook: 40 Minutes<br />
Serves 2<br />
Pork & Wild Boar • Main • Easy<br />
Boar is an underused meat, not commonly seen<br />
in many restaurants. This recipe comes from<br />
an eagerness to experiment with it, challenging<br />
myself to create an unconventional meal<br />
with an unusual and particularly interesting<br />
combination of flavours.<br />
HONEY & ROSEMARY GLAZE<br />
4 Tbsp honey<br />
2 sprigs of rosemary, stems removed, minced<br />
In a small pot, slightly warm the honey. Remove from heat<br />
and add rosemary. Set aside until ready to use.<br />
CHERRY COMPOTE<br />
1 Tbsp olive oil<br />
⅛ Tbsp onion, minced<br />
⅛ Tbsp garlic, minced<br />
2 Tbsp sugar<br />
12 local cherries, pitted, halved<br />
½ cup red wine<br />
2 Tbsp red wine vinegar<br />
salt and pepper to taste<br />
In a small pan, heat the olive oil and sauté<br />
onions and garlic until soft. Add remaining<br />
ingredients and bring to a simmer, allow the<br />
liquid to reduce until thickened. Set aside until<br />
ready to use.<br />
SAUERKRAUT ROTI<br />
1 large Yukon gold potato<br />
¼ cup sauerkraut, drained<br />
¼ cup flour<br />
1 large egg<br />
1 Tbsp olive oil<br />
salt to taste<br />
Place the potato in a large pot and cover with<br />
water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and<br />
simmer for 5 minutes. Remove the pot from<br />
the heat and leave the potato in the water for<br />
5-10 additional minutes. Strain and rinse the<br />
potato in cold water. Shred with the skin on.<br />
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Using a stand<br />
mixer, combine shredded potato, sauerkraut,<br />
flour and egg. Mix well until a moist dough<br />
forms and shape into 2 patties. Adjust<br />
consistency with water or flour if needed.<br />
In a large ovenproof pan, heat the olive<br />
oil over high heat. Sear one side of the potato<br />
patties until golden brown. Season with salt,<br />
turn over and place in the oven for 10 minutes<br />
or until thoroughly cooked.<br />
<strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 59<br />
GREEN BEANS<br />
1 cup green beans<br />
Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Blanch the green<br />
beans for 2 minutes until crisp and bright green. Strain<br />
and shock in an ice water bath. Lightly sauté in the same<br />
pan used for the sauerkraut roti.<br />
BOAR TENDERLOIN<br />
2 Tbsp olive oil<br />
2 large wild boar tenderloins<br />
salt and pepper<br />
In a separate ovenproof pan, heat the olive oil over high<br />
heat. Add boar tenderloins and sear until golden brown,<br />
turn over and place in the oven for 8-12 minutes or until<br />
desired doneness.<br />
CHEF NOTES: Ideally, the boar should still have some<br />
pink colour for best results.<br />
Remove from oven and brush thoroughly with<br />
rosemary glaze. Transfer to a cutting board and allow to<br />
rest for 3-5 minutes before slicing.<br />
Serve with sauerkraut roti and green beans. Top with<br />
cherry compote.
60 | <strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
Books<br />
The Great Immigrant Road Trip<br />
Buttermilk Graffiti: A Chef ’s Journey to Discover<br />
America’s New Melting-Pot Cuisine<br />
by Edward Lee<br />
Review by DARIN COOK<br />
Fusion is not new in the restaurant<br />
world. Even though Chef Edward<br />
Lee fears it has become a culinary<br />
gimmick, he knows the concept<br />
had profound meaning when it originated<br />
in a restaurant in Florida under the gaze of<br />
one of his heroes, Norman Van Aken. Real<br />
fusion is attuned to the everyday cooking<br />
of families who set roots in a new country<br />
and harmonize immigrant traditions with<br />
local cuisine. These are the types of recipes,<br />
restaurants, chefs and families that Lee<br />
searched for from the nationalities sprawled<br />
across American cities when writing his book<br />
Buttermilk Graffiti: A Chef ’s Journey to Discover<br />
America’s New Melting-Pot Cuisine (Thomas<br />
Allen & Son, <strong>2018</strong>). Whenever Lee has<br />
clam pizza in Connecticut he contemplates<br />
“the slow and gradual interconnection of<br />
two cultures, in this case, Italian and New<br />
England.” He further writes, “When you look<br />
at the evolution of American cuisine, you<br />
always find this tension between tradition and<br />
innovation, a tension that produces the foods<br />
we crave most. It is in the intersection of the<br />
home we leave and the home we adopt that we<br />
find a dish that defines who we really are.”<br />
Lee himself was raised in Brooklyn with his<br />
Korean family<br />
before he<br />
moved to Kentucky<br />
to refine<br />
his own cooking<br />
style. He<br />
identifies as<br />
a Southern<br />
chef, influenced<br />
not<br />
only by all<br />
other American styles,<br />
but immigrant ones, as well. Through<br />
his writing, he implores us to be “fascinated<br />
by other unlikely couplings that make up the<br />
narrative of life in America” because he knows<br />
that people project the food of their culture<br />
onto the fabric of their whole identity.<br />
Immigrants he met along the way<br />
revealed how they missed the ways of<br />
eating in their homeland. A Moroccan<br />
immigrant in Connecticut reminisces about<br />
Marrakesh by telling Lee: “Every day, you<br />
gather with families and friends for meals.<br />
You stroll through the markets and smell<br />
spices … You drink mint tea in cafes and<br />
talk all day till the sun goes down. Meals<br />
are celebrations, enjoyed in large groups.”<br />
Keeping food traditions alive in<br />
her transplanted home helps as<br />
she teaches Lee to prepare smen,<br />
a traditional Moroccan butter. He<br />
had been searching for someone<br />
to show him how to make it all his<br />
life. Lee himself pontificates about<br />
being a resident of America: “Maybe<br />
part of being American is releasing<br />
the anchor that we have to our<br />
Author Edward Lee
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
heritage so we can drift directionless into<br />
the unknown waters of identity.”<br />
All parts of his cross-country journey are<br />
entertaining and enlightening with French<br />
beignets in New Orleans, Cambodian cuisine<br />
in Massachusetts, Cuban food in Florida<br />
(where he learned to taste food in new ways<br />
by learning the nuances of smoking cigars),<br />
German schnitzel in Wisconsin, Lebanese<br />
kibbeh in Mississippi, and Swedish pancakes<br />
in Seattle. The oddest segment was Lee<br />
deciding to fast during Ramadan in a Muslim<br />
community in Michigan. It was paradoxical<br />
not only because he is a chef who builds his life<br />
around food, but he was also on a food-writing<br />
odyssey. All he could think was: “Conventional<br />
wisdom says that food writing should steer<br />
clear of politics and religion, but how do I do<br />
this in a place that is defined by its religion and<br />
cultural isolation?” So he fasted as the Muslims<br />
did and it provided new insight to food.<br />
Daytime fasting heightened the taste of food<br />
when the fast was broken at sundown each<br />
night. He writes, “After a day’s fast, the flavors<br />
and fats cling to your bones like medicine and<br />
heal you from the inside out.”<br />
<strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 61<br />
Throughout the book, Lee engages in<br />
another type of experimentation by making<br />
food fusion personal. He suggests taking a<br />
recipe that you like, that may already be a<br />
food imported from another culture, and<br />
fusing it with your own preferences, even<br />
changing one ingredient to make it your<br />
own personal recipe. This is how the recipes<br />
at the end of each chapter were born, as Lee<br />
riffs on unique global delicacies, like Coffee-<br />
Glazed Bacon with Pickled Watermelon and<br />
Fried Peanuts. He writes: “I never understood<br />
why the Asian identity and the American<br />
identity had to be compartmentalized, the<br />
way my Salisbury steak and apple pie were<br />
separated in my Swanson’s dinner. I wanted<br />
them all in one bite.” All the bites he took<br />
across America while writing Buttermilk<br />
Graffiti prove that each bite of food can lead to<br />
cultural outpourings about families, recipes,<br />
traditions, and memories.<br />
DARIN COOK is a regular <strong>Eatdrink</strong> contributor who<br />
lives and works in Chatham-Kent.<br />
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62 | <strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />
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The Lighter Side<br />
Pescatarian Tales<br />
By REBECCA ST. PIERRE<br />
Meat was a constant part of my diet<br />
when I was growing up in rural<br />
Southwestern Ontario. Pot roast,<br />
chicken wings and my mother’s<br />
signature headcheese took turns stealing<br />
prominent places of distinction on my dinner<br />
plate. At Christmas a large platter of honeyglazed<br />
ham was proudly displayed in the<br />
middle of the dining table, forcing all other<br />
lesser dishes of food to fight for the remaining<br />
space, and at Thanksgiving a beautifully<br />
browned turkey encouraged sibling rivalry<br />
over the wishbone. I didn’t question whether I<br />
should or shouldn’t eat meat.<br />
Time passed and I moved<br />
away from home, and after<br />
careful deliberation decided<br />
to stop eating meat — at least<br />
land animals. I continue to eat<br />
aquatic creatures like fish and<br />
seafood. For the past 20 years I<br />
thought I was a vegetarian because I<br />
was raised on the belief that fish flesh<br />
was not meat. Unknowingly I have been lying<br />
to family, friends, and myself for nearly two<br />
decades. The Vegetarian Society defines a<br />
vegetarian as someone who does not eat the<br />
flesh of any animal, including the critters<br />
residing in our lakes, streams and coastal<br />
oceans. For the sake of simplicity, I often<br />
continue to refer to myself as a vegetarian.<br />
“I’m a pescatarian” elicits quizzical looks, head<br />
tilting and raised eyebrows.<br />
Over the years I’ve mastered the skill of<br />
discreetly removing pepperoni from slices<br />
of pizza at social events and avoiding bacon<br />
bits in Caesar salads. I suspect many people<br />
assume I’m a picky eater with a small appetite.<br />
With only two or three meatless dishes at<br />
most group gatherings, my plate often looks<br />
desolate. A hefty helping of large salad greens<br />
usually solves the problem. If a host should<br />
discover I’m a pescatarian, he or she is always<br />
accommodating and generous.<br />
Sometimes my choice of diet defies a way<br />
of life that someone has identified with<br />
since childhood. My husband eats meat and<br />
probably always will. Chicken legs, pork<br />
sausage and beef burgers are a regularly<br />
included in his diet. We visited his friends<br />
in Alberta shortly after we started dating,<br />
where Chinook winds, frigid temperatures<br />
and meaty meals are as common as breathing,<br />
walking and sleeping. I wonder to this<br />
day if his friends initially considered an<br />
intervention when they heard his girlfriend<br />
did not eat beef. But the seafood chowder<br />
they prepared for lunch was absolutely divine.<br />
A pescatarian diet can be a conversation<br />
starter, stimulating interesting discussions.<br />
New acquaintances have asked, “Do you miss<br />
eating chicken?” and “If you don’t<br />
eat red meat, what do you eat?”<br />
— queries similar to those I<br />
asked myself in the first couple of<br />
years of saying goodbye to most types<br />
of meat dishes. Soon after answering<br />
their questions, we are sharing stories of what<br />
influences our food choices, which usually<br />
launches a delectable chat on a buffet of topics.<br />
Having an atypical diet can also cause<br />
confusion, as perfectly portrayed in one of<br />
my favourite scenes from the movie My Big<br />
Fat Greek Wedding. When the bride’s aunt,<br />
played by Andrea Martin, discovers the groom<br />
is a vegetarian, she exclaims to a room filled<br />
with guests, “What do you mean he don’t eat<br />
no meat!” All conversation suddenly ceases.<br />
A glass crashes to the floor. After a pregnant<br />
pause, she calmly says, “Oh, that’s okay, that’s<br />
okay, I make lamb, come.”<br />
A baked, meaty portobello mushroom is<br />
beginning to look as appetizing as a seared<br />
fillet of rainbow trout. Perhaps I will be a<br />
vegetarian by the end of the year, but until<br />
then, please pass the fish.<br />
REBECCA ST. PIERRE is a London-based freelance<br />
writer and photographer. She has been writing for<br />
publications, non-profits and small businesses since 2008.<br />
For more of her work, visit www.WordFlightAndLight.com.
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