Eatdrink #73 September/October 2018

Issue #73 | September/October 2018 

eatdrink 

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine 

A11 th 

N N 

I V E R S A RY 

I S S U E 

Craft 

Farmacy 

A Genuine 

Taste of Place 

in London 

FEATURING 

Eddington’s of Exeter 

Food Champion James Eddington 

Alton Farms Estate Winery 

Pioneers of “Huron Shores” 

Forest City Cookbook 

From Farm to Table to Page 

Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007 

www.eatdrink.ca

THE BACON AND ALE TRAIL 

IS A WELL ROUNDED MEAL 

IF YOU COUNT BARLEY 

AS A VEGETABLE 

Bacon and ale are a combination made in heaven, 

includes 5 tastes for just $30. 

- 

Stratford Tourism Alliance at 47 Downie Street. 

visitstratford.ca

eatdrink 

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine 

eatdrinkmagazine 

@eatdrinkmag 

eatdrinkmag 

eatdrink.ca 

Think Global. Read Local. 

Publisher 

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca 

Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca 

Food Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca 

Copy Editor Kym Wolfe 

Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca 

Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca 

Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca 

Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca 

Terry-Lynn “TL” Sim – TL@eatdrink.ca 

Finances 

Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca 

Graphics 

Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy 

Writers 

Jane Antoniak, Gerry Blackwell, 

Darin Cook, Andrew Coppolino, 

Gary Killops, Bryan Lavery, 

George Macke, Chris McDonell, 

Tracy Turlin 

Photographers Steve Grimes, Nick Lavery, 

Brogan McNabb 

Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349 

Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6 

Website 

City Media 

Printing 

Sportswood Printing 

OUR COVER 

London’s Craft Farmacy 

is owned by chef Andrew 

Wolwowicz, Jess Jazey- 

Spoelstra (of The River 

Room & North Moore 

Catering) and Harmen 

Spoelstra. 

Photo by Alieska Robles 

(alieskarobles.com) 

© 2018 Eatdrink Inc. and the writers. 

All rights reserved. 

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in Eatdrink 

or on Eatdrink.ca is strictly prohibited without the written permission 

of the Publisher. Eatdrink has a printed circulation of 20,000 

issues published six times annually in each of two markets, for a total 

of 240,000 copies in print. The views or opinions expressed in the 

information, content and/or advertisements published in Eatdrink 

or online are solely those of the author(s) and do not necessarily 

represent those of the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes submissions 

but accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material. 

Serving up 

Great 

partnerships 

commercial | digital | wide format | design 

Let us help with your next project... 

519.866.5558 | ben@sportswood.on.ca 

www.sportswood.on.ca

Contents 

Issue #73 | September/October 2018 

The Harvest Issue 

Publisher’s Notes 


Eat Fresh, Eat Local 

By CHRIS McDONELL 

6 

Restaurants 


The Chef/Owner of Eddington’s of Exeter 

By BRYAN LAVERY 

8 

A Genuine Taste of Place 



12 

Road Trips 

Hammer Time! 

Hamilton: A Heaven for Food Lovers 

By AMANDA STANCATI 

18 

Wine 



By GARY KILLOPS 

24 

Spirits 

Taking it Slow 

Willibald Farm Distillery 

By ANDREW COPPOLINO 

28 

Beer 

Seasonal Sensations 

Ciders and Sours 

By GEORGE MACKE 

31 

8 

51 

58 

12 

24 

The BUZZ 

Culinary Community Notes 

34 

Theatre 

World Curious, London Proud 

Grand Theatre: Preview 

By JANE ANTONIAK 

48 

Music 

Change of Season 

Upcoming Musical Highlights 

By GERRY BLACKWELL 

51 

Recipes 



Review & Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN 

55 

Books 

The Great Immigrant Road Trip 

Buttermilk Graffiti 

Review by DARIN COOK 

60 

The Lighter Side 

Pescatarian Tales 

By REBECCA ST. PIERRE 

62 

62 

31 

56 

28

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine 

VOTED 

LONDON'S 

RESTAURANT 

OF 

THE YEAR! 

JOIN US 

For Our Famous All-You-Can-Eat 

Thanksgiving Buffet 

Sunday, October 7 11am – 2:30pm 

$32.95 

Call for reservations 

519-430-6414 

Ask About Our TURKEY DINNER TO GO! 

/Blakes2ndFloor 

¦

6 | September/October 2018 

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag 

Publisher’s Notes 


Eat Fresh, Eat Local 

By CHRIS McDONELL 

There is no better time or place to 

appreciate the bounty of our country 

than autumn in Ontario. Our farmers’ 

markets are especially chock-a-block 

full of beautiful fruits and vegetables, and if 

you like to eat fresh and eat local, get out there. 

To assist your efforts, we’ve compiled a list 

of regional farmers’ markets that are looking 

forward to seeing you. Meet a farmer and thank 

her or him for the bag of goodies you’re 

taking home with you. 

Of course, while I do like 

to think of this as harvest 

season, I’m aware that this 

is not technically true for 

many of our local farmers 

and producers. For some, their primary harvest 

happened months ago, such as the asparagus 

and strawberry growers, and for others, 

Thanksgiving comes much too early for a true 

day of rest. Their fields won’t be harvested until 

later in the fall, bringing in much of our squash, 

cabbage and carrots. For those raising livestock, 

seasonality may or may not be a factor in their 

operation. It might be “turkey season” but the 

dairy business runs 365 days a year. 

Global warming is having an effect on 

farming, perhaps most negatively through 

“extreme” weather, but a longer growing season 

may be a fringe benefit in our locale. Some 

businesses have taken big — and prescient — 

steps to be less weather-dependent. In Strathroy, 

Jo and Pauline Slegers started building 

greenhouses 30 years ago and became certified 

organic in 2004. Today, Slegers Living Organic 

Greens sells 30 different products year-round, 

from tender young micro greens to mature salad 

greens, lettuce and herbs. Packed still growing 

in soil for better taste and a longer shelf life, 

you can have your own harvest days with a little 

snip. Available at many retailers such as Remark 

Fresh Market and through distributors like On 

the Move Organics, you can also buy direct at 

their farm gate (slegersgreens.com). 

The commitment to using local, fresh 

products is shared by two restaurants that 

we are profiling in this issue. Eddington’s 

of Exeter and Craft Farmacy, with chefs 

James Eddington and Andrew Wolwowicz 

respectively, offer seasonal menus that reflect 

our region, while creatively expressing their 

culinary talents in unique ways. I’m certain 

our readers will enjoy both stories. 

Our wine column features Alton Farms 

Estate Winery in 

Lambton County, 

where harvest 

season is taken 

extremely seriously. 

The Huron 

Shores wine region 

is starting to flourish and this is a great story 

about working with our climate, soil and local 

challenges to make great wine. I especially 

appreciate Alton Farms’ commitment to sustainable 

practices. 

For over a year now, London has been 

excited about Alieska Robles’ Forest City 

Cookbook project. The book is now out, and 

it’s a show-stopping epic that is both a great 

collection of recipes from London’s top chefs 

and a thoughtful tribute to local farmers and 

agriculture. I hasten to add that the book is 

gorgeous to look at too. We’re pleased to share 

a couple of recipes in this issue, and a bonus 

recipe online from “our” Bryan Lavery, Eatdrink 

Food Editor and Writer at Large, who also 

contributed a foreword, a couple of recipes, 

and other writing to the book. Congratulations 

Alieska and your crew for an accomplishment 

that exceeded our high expectations. 

There’s plenty more to enjoy in the 

following pages. This issue marks our 11th 

anniversary, and I’m amazed at how there is 

still so much happening that we can never 

keep up with all of it. We’re glad for the 

challenge though. Thanks for reading. 

Peace,


September/October 2018 | 7 

Local Farmers’ Markets, from Amherstburg to Woodstock 

Name Address Online Days & Hours Closing Day 

Amherstburg Farmers‘ Market 7860 County Road 20, outside Malden Community 

Cultural Centre, Amherstburg amherstburgfarmersmarket.com SAT 8:30am – 1:30pm OCT 19 

Bayfield Farmers‘ Market Clan Gregor Square, Bayfield bayfieldfarmersmarket.com FRI 3pm – 7pm OCT 13 

Belle River Farmers‘ Market Optimist Park, 705 Notre Dame St., Belle River fb.com/belleriverfarmersmarket SUN 10am – 2pm OCT 7 

Chatham-Kent Farmers‘ Market Highway 2, 9877 Longwoods Rd., Chatham chathamfarmersmarket.ca WED 9am –5pm Open All Year 

Covent Garden Farmers’ wMarket 130 King Street, London coventmarket.com THUR 8 – 2, SAT 8 – 1 DEC 29 

Downtown Windsor Farmers‘ Market Pelissier and Maiden Lane, Windsor dwfm.ca SAT 8m – 1pm OCT 6 

Downtown Woodstock Farmers‘ Market Downtown Museum Square, Woodstock bit.ly/2wN05xF THUR 11am – 4pm OCT 4 

Exeter Farmers‘ Market 1-35 MacNaughton Drive, Exeter fb.com/exeterfarmersmarket/ THUR 3am – 7pm OCT 4 

Forest Farmers‘ & Artisan Market 14 King Street, Forest bit.ly/2PxDI6R FRI 8am – 1pm OCT 6 

Goderich Farmers‘ Market Downtown Market Square, Goderich fb.com/FarmersMarketGoderichBIA/ SAT 8am – 1pm OCT 6 

Grand Bend Farmers‘ Market 1 Main Street, Grand Bend fb.com/GrandBendMarket/ WED 8am – 1pm OCT 3 

Horton Farmers‘ Market 10–16 Manitoba Street, St. Thomas hortonfarmersmarket.ca SAT 8am – noon NOV 3 

Ilderton Farmers‘ Market 92 Ilderton Road, Ilderton bit.ly/2oACix5 SAT 8am – noon SEPT 22 

Kingsville Farmers‘ Market 28 Division Street South, Kingsville kingsvillefarmersmarket.com SAT 10am – 2pm OCT 13 

Leamington Farmers‘ Market Leamington Fairgrounds, 194 Erie St. N., Leamington fb.com/LeamingtonFarmersMarket SAT 9am – 2pm Open All Year 

Masonville Farmers‘ Market 1680 Richmond St., London masonvillemarket.com FRI 8am – 1pm OCT 12 

Old South Farmers‘ Market Storm Stayed Brewing Co., 169 Wharncliffe Rd. S., London fb.com/oldsouthfarmersmarket/ THURS 4pm – 7pm SEPT 27 

Petrolia Farmers‘ Market 369 Fletcher St., behind the Library (Main St.), Petrolia bit.ly/2wHsllb SAT 7:30am – noon OCT 6 

Point Edward Moonlight Farmers‘ Market Next to Michigan Ave. (under the Bluewater Bridge), 

Point Edward bit.ly/2Q2GzFT THURS 4pm – 8pm OCT 4 

Port Rowan Farmers‘ Market Lions Pavilion — Sea Queen Rd., Port Rowan fb.com/PortRowanFarmersMarket/ FRI 3pm – 6Ppm OCT 5 

Sarnia Farmers‘ Market Corner of Proctor & Ontario St., Sarnia fb.com/SarniaFarmersMarket/ WED, SAT 7am – 1pm Open All Year 

Simcoe Farmers‘ Market 172 South Drive, Simcoe fb.com/SimcoeMarket/ THURS 9am – 4pm Open All Year 

St. Marys Farmers‘ Market 116 Jones St. E., St. Marys stmarysfarmersmarket.ca SAT 8am – noon Open All Year 

Stratford Farmers‘ Market 353 McCarthy Road, Rotary Complex/Agriplex, Stratford bit.ly/2NGJimT SAT 7am – noon Open All Year 

Stratford Slow Food Market Market Place Drive, Stratford fb.com/StratfordSundayMarket/ SUN 10am – 2pm Open All Year 

The Market at Western Fair District 900 King St., London westernfairdistrict.com/market SAT, SUN 8am – 3pm Open All Year 

Tillsonburg Farmers‘ Market 41 Bridge Street West, Tillsonburg fb.com/tillsonburgfarmersmarket/ SAT 8am – noon NOV 10 

Trails End Farmers‘ Market 4370 Dundas St East, London fb.com/trailsendfarmersmarket/ FRI 8am – 1pm Open All Year 

Waterford Farmers‘ Market Corner of Alice St. & St. James St. S., Waterford fb.com/WaterfordFarmersMarket/ WED 4pm – 7pm SEPT 26 

Wingham Farmers‘ Market 360 Josephine St., Wingham fb.com/winghamfarmersmarket/ WED 2:30pm – 6pm SEPT 26 

Woodstock Farmers‘ Market* Woodstock Fairgrounds, 875 Nellis Street, Woodstock fb.com/WoodstockOntarioFarmersMarket/ SAT 7am – noon Open All Year 

ED73 final pages.indd 7 

2018-09-04 12:14 PM



Restaurants 


The Chef/Owner of Eddington’s of Exeter 


Whenever I go out to dine, I generally 

seek out establishments 

whose chefs champion farmers, 

small-scale producers and food 

artisans. Restaurateurs and chefs who procure 

and feature local ingredients and products 

that are responsibly sourced are always at the 

top of my list. I was particularly interested in 

Eddington’s of Exeter because of chef/owner 

James Eddington’s long-standing reputation 

as a champion of food tourism in Huron 

County, and his participation in the Feast On 

program. For over two decades Eddington has 

displayed a dedicated focus to personalized 

service, seasonally-inspired menus and a 

value-driven customer experience. 

Feast ON has stringent guidelines and one 

can be assured that any restaurant with this 

certification has been well scrutinized. Feast 

ON is the criteria-based certification program 

designed to promote, market, and protect the 

authenticity of foodservice operators whose 

specific attributes qualify their commitment 

to local food. The program is designed to raise 

the profile of restaurants that advocate Ontario 

food and beverages, and share principles that 

are in sync with the Feast ON mandate. The 

program uses verification and enforcement 

mechanisms to maintain its integrity. Since 

launching the Feast On program in 2014 the 

Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance (OCTA) has 

continued growing, evolving, and improving 

the program. (OCTA is a not-for-profit devoted 

to connecting tastemakers, sharing their 

stories and developing authentic food tourism.) 

Head out of town to Exeter where chef/ 

owner James Eddington and sous chef 

Lori Debrouwer prepare locally-sourced 

ingredients at Eddington’s of Exeter. This 

is contemporary, casual fine dining with a 

rustic charm. The yellow brick Italianate-style 

mansion on Main Street stands out with its 

decorative bracket eaves, large bay windows 

and well-manicured lawn with mature 

James Eddington in the kitchen



maple trees. Eddington’s occupies 

the original Carling homestead 

(built in the 1870s), a designated 

historical landmark. The house has 

been updated throughout the years 

with two extensive renovations, an 

additional 20-seat dining room and 

a tri-level seasonal deck for up to 60 

people that is shaded with umbrellas 

for alfresco drinking and dining. 

The restaurant features twelve-foot 

ceilings both upstairs and down, wellspaced 

tables with lots of elbow room, 

and warm tones with a contemporary 

ambience bordering on elegant. 

Exeter, located close to Lake Huron, 

London and Stratford has all the amenities of 

a big city and the warmth of a small village. 

Exonian’s have a reputation for possessing 

plenty of community spirit. Eddington grew 

up in the community of Thamesford located 

east of London in Zorra Township. He moved 

to Exeter 20 years ago when he started the 

restaurant and now states, “I can honestly say 

it feels like home and that just feels good.” 

One of the restaurant’s signature dishes 

is Lake Huron pickerel. In the absence of 

pickerel, there is often fresh perch in season. 

On a recent visit we drank peach sangria made 

with white wine and fresh fruit, followed by a 

selection of Italian-themed tapas which were 

presented on a wooden board. There were 

perfectly braised beef rib with sweet and sour 

cherry jam and runny cambozola cheese on 

a crostini; sweet honey-pitted dates stuffed 

with blue cheese and pecans and wrapped in 

prosciutto with a smear of fig jam; skewers of 

cherry tomatoes and cubed bocconcini cheese 

WIN A LEXUS FOR A WEEKEND! 

Plus get your own car cleaned and detailed! 

This elegant mansion on Main Street is home to Eddington‘s of Exeter 

eatdrink & 

Presented by 

Enter at www.facebook.com/eatdrinkmag 

Contest ends October 26, 2018. Complete details online. 

Congratulations Mary McGarry, 

winner of our July/August Draw!



Clockwise from top left: Peach Bellini 

Sangria; 

Sticky Honey & Sriracha Crispy Chicken, 

waffle Cone , zesty slaw; 

Tomato & White Bean Vegetable Ragout, 

zucchini, cauliflower & corn fritters, 

micro greens (vegan and gluten-free); 

Tapas — choices might include these 

selections: Honey Pitted Date with 

blue cheese, pecan, prosciutto, 

cipolline onion & fig jam; Crostini with 

braised beef rib, sweet & sour cherry 

jam & cambozola cheese; Sweet Mini 

Heirloom Tomato with bocconcini 

cheese, fresh basil & balsamic glaze 

(gluten-free option); Blue Crab Fritter 

with arborio rice, remoulade & lemon; 

Iced Crème Brûlée Cake 

with fresh basil leaves and a splash of balsamic 

glaze; and blue crab fritters with Arborio 

rice, remoulade and lemon. We followed that 

with sticky honey and sriracha crispy chicken 

served with slaw in a waffle cone. At dinner 

the menu has such requisites as Breaded Herb 

of Chicken with brie and caramelized apples, 

and Lamb Shanks with Dijon-mint red pepper 

glaze. Few foods have left the global impact 

that ramen has on the food scene; a savoury 

broth with braised pork shoulder, noodles, 

soft poached egg, scallions, vegetables and 

cilantro pay homage to the obsession. Large, 

broad pappardelle noodles are served simply 

with a rustic, chunky tomato sauce with red 

peppers, carrots, broccoli, parmesan and 

Asiago cheese without too much dressing 

up. Tomato and local white bean vegetable 

ragout is served with zucchini, cauliflower, 

micro greens and crisp fritters with luscious 

corn interiors. For dessert there is carrot 

cake, apple bread pudding, white chocolate 

and lemon cheesecake and pecan pie. There 

is a good flourless chocolate cake and an 

impressive iced crème brûlée cake that shouts 

quality ingredients. 

Eddington literally fell in love with the 

sound of the restaurant business. As a 

young teen he visited a friend who worked 

as a dishwasher at a local fine dining 

establishment and waited for him to finish his 

shift. “Like a symphony of sounds the dining 

room sang with a rumble of laughter, the 

clinking of glasses and ambiance of live music. 

The kitchen was alive with a chef barking 

orders, the screaming sizzle of hot pans and 

the adrenalin rush of a full house. That was 

the moment everything changed. The next 

morning I dug out my Sunday best and shined 

my shoes and walked in with my resume. After 

much consideration, the owners hired me as 

host/busboy. I had my foot in the door and 

the rest is history,” he recounted. 

Locally-sourced food has been a driving


Trust... 

Taste... 

Quality... 

The tri-level deck offers space to enjoy outdoor dining 

force at Eddington’s of Exeter. “We are blessed 

to be living in such an agriculturally rich area 

of the world,” states Eddington. He has 25 

acres located on the shores of Lake Huron and 

farms 16 acres of corn, white beans and wheat 

in rotation. On other lands he has extensive 

gardens where he grows over 25 varieties 

of fruits and vegetables. The property has 

unique plantings alongside fruit trees with an 

extensive trail system with its own labyrinth. 

When Chef purchased the farm it was run 

down and over-grown, but he spent the last 

couple of years bringing it back to life and 

ensuring the longevity of the buildings. There 

is a small apple orchard and fresh kiwi fruit, 

blood peaches and quince (ingredients that 

are showing up more frequently on Ontario 

farm-to-table menus). There is a pumpkin and 

squash patch melded into the headlands. This 

past year he converted an old art studio into a 

working greenhouse so he could stagger seed 

planting in March and April to start all the 

vegetables that are grown on the property. 

Eddington’s favourite seasonal ingredients 

are those that are at their peak of freshness at 

any given time. Fresh off of the vine, picked 

from the tree, foraged from the forest or dug 

up from the earth. 

Eddington’s of Exeter 

527 Main Street, Exeter 

519-235-3030 

eddingtons.ca 

Eatdrink Food Editor and Writer at Large, BRYAN 

LAVERY brings years of experience in the restaurant 

and hospitality industry, as a chef, restaurateur and 

consultant. Always on the lookout for the stories that 

Eatdrink should be telling, he helps shape the magazine 

both under his byline and behind the scenes. 

Your Source for 

Dry Aged Steaks, 

Sausages, Burgers & Kebabs 

and so much more ... 

• Sourced locally from trusted farms 

• Traditional European preparation methods 

• The latest in food processing innovation 

Open six days a week. 

Hensall, Ontario 

Just off Hwy 4, 

45 minutes north of London. 

www.metzgermeats.com 

519-262-3130 

Available in London at 

The Village Meat Shop 

at Western Fair Farmers’ Market 

on Saturdays! 

Local Beef • Pork • Lamb • Poultry 

Specialty European Meat Products



Restaurants 

A Genuine Taste of Place 



Modern farm-to-table restaurant 

concepts such as Craft Farmacy 

have shed most everything that 

is ingrained about guests’ dining 

perceptions. What’s left is intentionally curated 

and self-assured, hospitable and fueled with 

the lifeblood of culinary skill, craftsmanship 

and authenticity. Craft Farmacy is the epitome 

of the contemporary farm-to-table restaurant. 

Entrepreneur Jess Jazey-Spoelstra has always 

delivered cutting-edge and quality food 

experiences combined with extraordinary 

service, her forte and hallmark as the owner 

of North Moore Catering, The River Room, 

Rhino Lounge and co-owner of Craft Farmacy. 

Chef Andrew Wolwowicz, formerly of The 

Springs restaurant, is a partner as is Spoelstra’s 

husband Harmen. Jamie Sandwith and Cody 

Ballman are the experienced restaurant 

professionals who round out the seasoned 

front-of-the-house team that include some of 

the city’s top servers. 

We are living through a culinary renaissance. 

As a result there has been a major shift in the 

focus of the restaurant industry over the last 

few years. More than ever, my work puts me 

in contact with the local food ethos, gamechanging 

restaurateurs and chef visionaries 

advancing our food culture, like Jazey-Spoelstra 

and Wolwowicz. Just as important are those 

restaurant owners who have become arbiters for 

political issues and social justice concerns. Most 

of us have come to realize that if an inexpensive 

meal in a restaurant can only be provided on the 

backs of people slaving away in the kitchen for 

next to nothing, we should not be patronizing 

that restaurant. Historically the restaurant 

business does not provide a great living for 

cooks. Restaurateurs need to sustain their 

employees with a living wage. A good business 

embraces these attributes and treats their 

staff and clientele with dignity and integrity. 

Like many people I know, I will not knowingly 

support a business that is contrary to my 

Craft Farmacy‘s chef and co-owner Andrew Wolwowicz, 

with partners Jess Jazey-Spoelstra and Harmen Spoelstra 

values. Craft Farmacy is a restaurant with a well 

thought out ethos that is easy to get behind. 

As a small business owner who works hard 

and supports other small businesses, local 

food initiatives and the larger community in 

general, it seems ironic that Jazey-Spoelstra 

was recently targeted by vegan activists for 

offering vegetarian options at Rhino Lounge 

Bakery and Coffee Shoppe, and not being 

solely vegan. She was accused of exploiting 

veganism. If anything, she has helped 

by raising the bar in the city for quality 

vegetarian food. The bakery had been the

purview of her former pastry chef, the gifted 

Michele Lenhardt, who ran the operation as 

she saw fit. Lenhardt, who incidentally is a 

vegan, served some of the best vegetarian 

food in the city on the Rhino’s former plantbased 

Wednesdays and Fridays. Spoelstra 

might have been on hand to suggest a little 

tweaking here or there, or after seeing a 

cool fritter online, would want the bakers 

to replicate it. That is and was pretty much 

the extent of her input into the menu at the 

Rhino. After Lenhardt left to partner in the 

Clockwise from top left: Medley of heirloom tomatoes 

from the garden; 

Oysters Rockefeller with aged havarti bechamel; 

Cuban-inspired Mojo Chicken, garden zucchini,summer 

corn succatash; 

Cast iron-seared Hanger Steak, grilled peach and 

habanero compote, heirloom tomato and lemon 

cucumber salad; 

Heirloom Tomato and Buratta Cheese Salad with blue 

basil; 

House-smoked Cherrywood Chicken, summer peas, 

caramelized onions, peas and sherry reduction, injera 

crepe,



V Spot, the direction of the Rhino 

changed under the new chef. 

Wolwowicz is also pro-active in 

the local food scene and among a 

small group of local chefs who wield 

unprecedented influence, and believes 

that part of his responsibility is to 

educate customers about the four 

pillars of sustainability: cultural 

vibrancy, economic prosperity, 

environmental responsibility and 

social justice. A well-known culinary 

gymnast who cooks with skill and 

dedication, Wolwowicz is one of the 

local pioneers of the homegrown and 

ethical farm-to-table movements. 

He was an early proponent of using 

locally grown ingredients from farms 

specializing in sustainable agriculture, 

organic growing practices and ethically 

raised livestock. Wolwowicz is aided by his 

talented sous chef Kyle Trafford and a team 

of apprentices. The chefs plate the food with 

open-handed generosity. 

Menu items are progressive, rustic in 

style, feature high quality ingredients, local, 

region-specific and specialty products, and 

are executed with aptitude, innovation and 

attention to detail. Wolwowicz’s menus 

reflected dishes crafted from local, regional 

and seasonal products long before it became 

the prevailing attitude. There has been a 

significant rise in customer expectations for 

restaurants in terms of healthy-eating, allergy 

concerns, sourcing, and sustainability over the 

last few years. Craft Farmacy has kept abreast 

of these changes. 

We have enjoyed plenty of unique tasting 

experiences like Roasted Bone Marrow (which 

The blackboard menu displays the daily changes in draught beer and oyster offerings. 

The dining room at Craft Farmacy is stylish yet comfortable, 

and includes a fireplace and spacious bar area. 

can later be used as a bourbon luge) with 

Ox Tail Marmalade; Lamb Belly Croquettes; 

Brown Butter Chicken Schnitzel with Warm 

Potato Salad with Forked River Abbey Jus; 

Craft Duck Plate with Magret, Confit and 

Duck Fat Fingerlings; Cast Iron Hanger Steak 

with Garlic Frites, Slaw, Demi, Aioli, Red 

Onion Marmalade and Chimichurri; and a 

dynamite Lamb Burger. There is Hangover 

Soup (not on the menu) made with shellfish 

broth and a raw bar featuring a fresh Shellfish 

Tower, Shrimp Cocktail and a changing 

selection of six to nine East Coast oyster 

varieties including Malpeque, Irish Point, 

Daisy Bay, Raspberry Point, Lucky Lime 

and Savage Blonde with fresh horseradish, 

mignonette sauce and hot sauce. 

Jazey-Spoelstra’s stylish design sensibility 

is reflected in Craft Farmacy and she definitely 

delivers style and comfort with attention to 

the smallest details. 

Setting the tone is an 

ample repurposed bar, 

stunning fireplace, 

custom-made leather 

banquettes and 

repurposed tables with 

comfortable strappedback 

bentwood-style 

chairs. The servers’ 

custom-designed 

leather aprons by 

Coakley’s are another 

example of Spoelstra’s 

keen eye for detail. 

Craft, as in an 

activity involving skill


celebrating 122 years in stratford 

Craft Farmacy‘s Chef and co-owner Andrew Wolwowicz, 

a local pioneer of ethical farm-to-table cuisine. 

in making things by hand, and Farmacy, as in 

from the “farm” and from the “sea.” With 112 

seats, Craft Farmacy features sharing plates, a 

carefully though-out wine list, premium craft 

cocktails, ten craft beers on tap, and plenty 

of pizzazz. There is a private event space with 

room for 40 on the second floor. 

Craft Farmacy happens to be London’s 

first Feast ON certified “Taste of Ontario” 

restaurant. Wolwowicz gives props to Chef 

James Eddington of Eddington’s of Exeter for 

introducing him to Feast ON. Let’s hope that, 

with the unbridled success of Craft Farmacy, 

more London restaurants see the advantages 

and merits of becoming part of this worthy 

province-wide initiative. 

Craft Farmacy 

449 Wharncliffe Road South, London 

519-914-2699 

facebook.com/craftfarmacy 

tuesday to sunday: 11:30 am–midnight 

brunch sunday; closed monday 

BRYAN LAVERY is Eatdrink Food Editor and Writer at 

Large, helping shape the magazine both under his byline 

and behind the scenes.

Stratford is 

more than 

great theatre 

visitstratford.ca 

um 

Lorem ipsum 

A restaurant inspired by 

local ingredients. 

Run by workers. 

Owned by workers. 

Shared by the Community. 

7 Days a Week 

Reservations Recommended 

64 Wellington St, Stratford 

redrabbitresto.com 

519.305.6464 

@redrabbitresto 

global tapas with local ingredients 

fresh cocktails 

Perfect for dinner before or snacks after the show 

Wednesday–Sunday from 5pm 

85 Downie St, Stratford 

(next to Avon Theatre) 

519.305.8585 

85Downie.com

“Our bodies are our gardens 

to which our wills are gardeners.” 

— William Shakespeare 

Awaken your taste buds 

with over 50 choices of fresh, 

olive oils & balsamic vinegars, 

all in the heart of Stratford. 

What’s Your Flavour? 

Fire Roasted Corn 

(with Lime and 

Cilantro Pesto) 

Follow us to see what’s fresh today! 

21 York Street 

TUES, WED, THURS, SAT 10–5; 

FRI 10–6; SUN 12–4; Closed MON 

519-508-1757 

oliveyourfavourites.com 

Fresh & Frozen 

Eat-In or Take-Out 

45+ Soup Flavours 

Vegan, Dairy Free & 

Gluten Free Options 

No additives or 

preservatives 

Tuesday–Friday 11–6 • Saturday 11–4 

Sunday 10–2 at Stratford Slow Food Market 

98 Wellington St., Stratford 519.497.5167 

soupsurreal.com 

“A fun place to shop 

for housewares and gifts!” 

Emma Bridgewater 

“Vegetable Garden” Pottery 

Tomatoes, artichokes and peppers illustrated 

in delicious detail, looking good enough 

to eat straight from the plate. 

WATSON’S 

CHELSEA BAZAAR 

84 Ontario St. Stratford 

watsonsofstratford.com 

519-273-1790



SPONSORED BY 

Road Trips 

Hammer Time! 

Discover Hamilton — A Food Lovers Heaven 

By AMANDA STANCATI 

A 

visit to the city that produces 

Dempster’s bread, Maple Leaf 

meats, Karma Candy candy canes 

and other national food brands is 

sure to be a tasty one. A strong coffee culture, 

beloved local establishments, a growing 

number of craft breweries, and a steady 

stream of new and exciting restaurants makes 

Hamilton a worthy destination for roadtrippers. 

Looking for the best food and drink 

in town? Here are some must-tries. 

Hamilton Farmers’ Market 

The indoor Hamilton Farmers’ Market, 

located in the heart of downtown beside 

Jackson Square, has been operating since 

1837. Visit on a Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, or 

Saturday to check out the 60 vendors who 

offer everything from produce and prepared 

foods to flowers and crafts. Market highlights 

include Relay Coffee Roasters for small 

batch, organic and fair trade coffee (and a 

selection of Donut Monster donuts), Cake 

and Loaf for Instagram-worthy desserts, 

Pokeh, Canada’s first poke bar serving up the 

fresh Hawaiian dish, and Sensational Samosa 

for samosas, rotis, curries, and salads. 

City Dishes 

“Distinctly Hamilton” dishes come in all 

shapes and sizes. Here are some favourites. 

Hamilton Farmers’ Market 

While Hamilton is where Tim Hortons 

was founded, donut-lovers in the city know 

Grandad’s is the place to go. Donuts are 

baked daily and are larger than what you’ll 

typically find in a coffee shop. And they come 

in flavours you won’t find anywhere else (like 

walnut crunch and strawberry fritter!). 

Simple yet delicious, Roma Bakery’s “plain” 

pizza isn’t topped with cheese (crazy, right?), 

but the saucy bread has become the go-to for 

birthday parties and picnics in Hamilton. Grab 

a slab for the road at the flagship bakery (it’s 

also sold at other locations around the city) and 

you’ll understand what all the hype is about.

.. @LEXUS 

e EXPERIENCE A MAZING _, 

2018 RX 350 AWD 2018IS 300 RWD 2019 NX 300 AWD 

LEASE APR 81-WEEKLY LEASE PAYMENT FROM LEASE APR Bl-WEEKLY LEASE PAYMENT FROM LEASE APR Bl-WEEKLY LEASE PAYMENT FROM 

1.9 %* $249* 0.9%* $199* 1.9%* $219 

39MONTHS DOWN PAYMENT $6,400' 39MONTHS DOWN PAYMENT $5,250" 39MONTHS DOWN PAYMENT $4,180" 

DELIVERY CREDITS OF UP TO F SPORfCREDITS OF UP TO F SPORfCREDITS OF UP TO 

$4,000 A $4,000 A $2,000 A 

PAYMENT INCLUDES $4,000" DELIVERY CREDIT. PAYMENT INCLUDES $4000" DELIVERY CREDIT. PAYMENT INCLUDES $2,000" DELIVERY CREDIT. 

© I LEXUSOFLONDON 

1065 Wharncliffe Road South, London, ON 

(519) 680-1900 

lexusof london.com 

^Delivery Credits are available on retail purchase/lease of select new 2018 and 2019 Lexus vehicles from a Canadian Lexus Dealer and will be applied after taxes have been charged on the full amount of the negotiated 

price. Vehicle must be purchased/leased, registered and delivered by August 31st, 2018. *‡ Lease and Finance offers provided through Lexus Financial Services, on approved credit. *Representative lease example based on 

a 2018 RX 350 AWD sfx ‘A’ on a 39 month term at an annual rate of 1.9% and Complete Lexus Price of $59,552. Bi-weekly lease payment is $249 with $6,400 down payment or equivalent trade in, $0 security deposit and 

first bi-weekly lease payment due at lease inception. Total of 84 bi-weekly lease payments required during the lease term. Total lease obligation is $27,478. *Representative lease example based on a 2018 IS 300 AWD sfx 

‘B’ on a 39 month term at an annual rate of 0.9% and Complete Lexus Price of $48,302. Bi-weekly lease payment is $199 with $5,250 down payment or equivalent trade in, $0 security deposit and first bi-weekly lease 

payment due at lease inception. Total of 84 bi-weekly lease payments required during the lease term. Total lease obligation is $22,099. *Representative lease example based on a 2019 NX 300 sfx ‘A’ on a 39 month term at 

an annual rate of 1.9% and Complete Lexus Price of $46,852. Bi-weekly lease payment is $219 with $4,180 down payment or equivalent trade in, $0 security deposit and first bi-weekly lease payment due at lease inception. 

Total of 84 bi-weekly lease payments required during the lease term. Total lease obligation is $22,723. ‡ Representative finance example is based on a 2018 RX 350 AWD sfx ‘A’ on a 36 month term at an annual rate of 

0.9% and Complete Lexus Price of $59,552; Monthly payment is $1,677 (includes $4,000 Delivery Credit); Cost of borrowing is $830 for a total obligation of $60,381. Complete Lexus Price includes freight/PDI 

($2,075), EHF Tires ($16.50), EHF Filters ($1), A/C charge ($100), Dealer Fees ($599), and OMVIC Fee ($10). Taxes, license, registration (if applicable), and insurance are extra. Lexus Dealers are free to set their own 

prices. Limited time offers only apply to retail customers at participating Lexus Dealers. Dealer order/trade may be required (but may not be available in certain circumstances). Offers are subject to change or cancellation 

without notice. See Lexus of London for complete details.


Putting the finishing touch on S‘mores Cupcakes, 

at Cake & Loaf 

For a beachfront snack, Hamiltonians have 

been frequenting Hutch’s since 1946. The 

diner is beloved for its fish and chips, cones, 

milkshakes, and old-school decor. 

Craft Beer 

Hamilton’s growing craft beer scene includes 

a number of beautiful spaces around the city 

to visit for a cold one. In addition to its drink 

offerings, Merit Brewing offers a menu of 

shareables and unique sausage options to 

enjoy at the communal tables. 

Other notable craft breweries include 

Fairweather Brewing Company, 

Grain&Grit, Shawn & Ed Brewing Co., 

Rust City Brewery, and Collective Arts 

Brewing. Collective Arts’ award-winning 

beers are celebrated for their limited-edition 

artwork on the cans and labels — and make 

for a tasty souvenir to bring home! 

Aberdeen Tavern 

Capri Ristorante, opened in 1963, is known 

for traditional pizzas and pastas — both 

Hamilton mainstays. 

For something more trendy, Aberdeen 

Tavern belongs to the same family of the 

more recently opened The French and The 

Shawn & Ed Brewing Co., on Hatt Street 

Diplomat, all excellent choices for upscale 

food and drink in stylish environments. 

Ancaster Mill and Edgewater Manor 

are elegant options for special occasions. 

Merit Brewing 

Notable Restaurants 

Hamilton restaurants serve cuisine from 

around the globe. Black Forest Inn has 

been a landmark since 1967, serving hearty 

Bavarian cuisine including a famous schnitzel 

selection. For large Italian-style portions, 

Ancaster Mill


Sample delicious local eats, 

meet inspiring producers and 

marvel at the tempting array 

of fresh and artisanal edibles. 

From farm to table, pork to pies 

to pints, discover more 

in Perth County! 

Mezcal TNT 

Built from limestone, Ancaster Mill is set 

beside a waterfall offering pretty views, while 

Edgewater Manor serves steak and seafood 

beside Lake Ontario. 

James Street 

James Street is one of the Hamilton’s hippest 

neighbourhoods, and has a high concentration 

of dining options. To the north is Wild 

Orchid for flavourful seafood, and Born 

and Raised for wood-oven pizza and a raw 

bar. To the south you’ll find Mezcal TNT 

for tacos and tequila and Radius for fine 

dining and a two-level patio — and loads of 

choices in between. This is a very walkable 

neighbourhood so get out and enjoy! 

Leave room for dessert from Chocolat on 

James or Rush Sugar Bar. Coffee options 

include Mulberry Coffeehouse and Saint 

James Espresso Bar and Eatery. 

restaurants 

farm gates 

NàRoma 

Pizzeria 

food shops 

Find us, follow us! 

#DiscoverMore #PerthCounty 

@PerthCoTourism 

perthcountytourism.ca



Locke Street 

From NàRoma Pizzeria’s fusion of 

Naples and Roman-style pizzas to Bread 

Bar’s from-scratch breads, pizzas, soups 

and salads, Locke Street packs big flavour 

along a relatively short strip. For casual 

fine dining, Brux House and Mattson & 

Co both offer quality food and cocktails. 

For something sweet to round out your 

trip, Amo Gelato Caffe makes gelato 

in-house! 

Dundas 

The quaint town of Dundas is home to 

the award-winning fine dining restaurant, 

Quatrefoil, the pretty Detour Cafe for a 

coffee and bite to eat, and Beanermunky 

Chocolates for sweet confections. 

Winona 

Located in Hamilton towards Niagara 

Falls is a little community called Winona, 

home to Memphis Fire BBQ, a must-visit 

for meat-lovers. This Southern-style 

BBQ joint makes mouth-watering burgers, 

beef brisket, pulled pork, buttermilk 

chicken, and baby back ribs. 

Also in the neighbourhood is 

Puddicombe Estate Farms & Winery. 

Pick up some hand-baked pies or some 

award-winning wines at this 200-year-old 

family fruit farm. 

Tasty Souvenirs 

On your way out of the city, pick up some 

culinary souvenirs to enjoy at home. 

Nardini Specialties and Denninger’s 

Foods of the World have some of the 

best European-style sausages and meats. 

Lasagna-lovers can pick up some Mama 

Yolanda’s gourmet lasagna at Nardini. 

For the sweet tooth, Bennett’s Apples 

makes scrumptious apple pie, turnovers, 

and other baked goods at its market. 

Sam’s Queenston Bakery is known for 

the cannoli, made in a nut-free facility, 

along with other Italian treats like mini 

tiramisu and rum cakes. 

I am sure your visit to Hamilton will be a 

delicious one! 

AMANDA STANCATI is a Hamilton-based writer 

who loves to eat her way through different cities around 

the world. Follow her on Twitter @amandastancati. 

From the top down: NàRoma Pizza, Detour Cafe in Dundas, 

Memphis Fire BBQ in Winona, and Sam’s Queenstown Bakery.


September/October 2018 | 23



Wine 


Alton Farms Estate Winery in Lambton County 

by GARY KILLOPS 

Looking for a day trip close to 

home? Alton Farms Estate 

Winery, located at 5547 

Aberarder Line, Plympton- 

Wyoming is just about an hour west of 

London. 

Marc Alton and Anne Kurtz- 

Alton, who own and operate the 

vineyard, recently celebrated the fifth 

anniversary of the winery. The Altons 

purchased the 90-acre property in 2005 

and soon after planted a test acre of fifteen 

different varietals to see what they could grow 

best on the property. 

They proved wrong the naysayers who said 

it would be too cold for grapes to grow and for 

vines to survive the cold winters, and went 

on to became Lambton County’s first winery. 

Together with Dark Horse Estate Winery and 

Maelstrom Winery in neighboring Huron 

County an Ontario wine region is forming, 

unofficially called “Huron Shores”. 

“From the beginning we have always been 

committed to sustainability both in the 

vineyard and the winery,” Anne explains. “We 

try not to waste anything. 

We compost the pruned 

vines in the spring, and 

the grape skins and seeds 

after harvest. We also have 

a herd of Shetland sheep 

and 15 lambs who eat the 

ground cover between the 

rows of vine and fertilize 

the soil.” 

As is the case for most 

vineyards in southern 

Ontario, too much 

moisture from rain and 

humidity can be a concern. 

Marc, who is both the 

winemaker and vineyard 

manager, keeps a close 

watch on the climate and 

will only use the 

most sustainable products when there is a 

need to spray in the vineyard. 

A geo-engineer and marine geologist by 

profession, Marc is a self-taught winemaker 

and grape grower. He is learning, adapting, 

and challenging traditional winemaking 

practices and is willing to experiment with 

unusual blends that are both interesting and 

unique. 

In 2013 the winery opened to the public 

in a century-old wooden drive shed on the 

property. “It’s been a labour of love,” says 

Anne. “As our budget allows we look to make 

Anne Kurtz-Alton with some of the vital sheep at the Alton Farms vineyard



Taste the elements. 

1709 Front Road, St. Williams, Norfolk County, ON 

Tastings, Tours & Events 

burningkilnwinery.ca 519.586.9858 

@burningkilnwine


Alton Farms 

EST A TE WINERY 

New look 

...same great wines! 

WINE TASTINGS, EVENTS, 

TOURS, OUTDOOR 

PATIO, WOOD-FIRED 

PIZZA OVEN 

7 

LAKE 

HURON 

SARNIA 

21 

Grand 

Bend 

Forest 

Aberarder Line 

21 

402 

London 

77 km 

Available at the winery, select LCBOs & farmers’ markets 

5547 Aberarder Line, Plympton-Wyoming 

519-899-2479 • altonfarmsestatewinery.com 

Enjoy wine on the patio. Food choices include pizza from 

the wood-fired oven 

improvements to the winery and in the 

vineyard.” This year the tasting room and 

retail store were moved to the renovated 

basement of the family home, offering a 

striking wooden tasting bar with superior 

lighting and welcoming ambience. The winery 

offers a flight of three wines for $5. The tasting 

fee is waived with wine purchase. In addition 

to wine, the retail store has glassware, gift 

baskets, and wine accessories for sale.



more wine, and sell more volume,” Marc said. 

Anne also pointed out that the patio and 

special events help keep the winery open at 

this time. 

The winery hosted quite a few events this 

past summer such as “Wine Wednesday 

Dinners” featuring different local chefs each 

week and food paired with wines from Alton 

Estates. They also hold “Wine and Paint” and 

“Wine and Yoga” afternoons and the annual 

“Fine Art, Fine Wine: Show and Sale.” Many of 

these events sold out. 

The new tasting room has a warm and welcoming 

ambiance 

Other recent additions to the winery 

include an open-air patio and a wood-fired 

pizza oven offering Margherita, meat lovers, 

Mediterranean chicken and gluten-free pizzas. 

The patio menu also includes charcuterie 

boards with a selection of seasonal meats, 

cheeses, breads, crackers and fruits. Wine is 

available by the glass. 

The selection of red, white and rosé wines 

available for purchase from the winery is 

always changing as new wines are released. 

The current offerings include a 2016 riesling, 

2016 sauvignon blanc and 2015 chardonnay, 

and a rosé made from marechel foch grapes. 

Red wines include the 2016 baco noir, 2015 

cabernet sauvignon and 2015 cabernet franc. 

Some hybrid and vinifera blends are also 

available. 

Alton Farms wine production is small when 

compared to other wineries in Ontario. Last 

year they produced just under 600 cases and 

hope to increase production to about 800 

cases this year. With this volume it is difficult 

to make a profit. “You really have to make 

Winemaking at Its Finest 

18 

YEARS 

celebrating 

NEW CUSTOMERS 

Mention this ad for 

$30 OFF ’til Christmas 

Premium quality handcrafted wine 

at an affordable price 

150 Exeter Road, London 519-652-3998 

somersetfinewines.com 

Share Our Passion 

Available 

at 

at the 

Fine LCBO Restaurants 

& The Winery 

Colchester Ridge Estate Winery 

A Family-Run Craft Winery 

Award-Winning VQA Wines 

Friendly Tasting Boutique 

Picnic Tables 

Artisanal Ontario Cheeses 

Special Events 

@crewinery • 108 Essex County Road 50 • Harrow ON • 519-738-9800



stomping fee is $5 per entry, with all proceeds 

in support of Bluewater Centre for Raptor 

Rehabilitation. This is a family event with 

competitive adult grape stomping and kid 

stomps. 

On October 13th the winery will host their 

second annual Weinfest. This family-friendly 

event is a German tradition in celebration of 

the new wines in production after harvest. 

Anne Kurtz -Alton and Marc Alton, of Alton Farms Estate 

Winery. 

On September 23rd the winery will host 

the third annual grape stomp event. The 


5547 Aberarder Line, Plympton-Wyoming 

519-899-2479 

altonfarmsestatewinery.com 

GARY KILLOPS is a CAPS Certified Sommelier who 

loves to talk, taste, and write about wine. He shares his 

tasting notes on EssexWineReview.com 

Spirits 

Taking it Slow 

Willibald Farm Distillery in Ayr 

By ANDREW COPPOLINO | Photos by BROGAN McNABB 

The folks at Willibald Farm Distillery 

might say that time hasn’t been on 

their side — and that’s all right with 

them. At the distillery located near 

Ayr, about 30 minutes south of Kitchener, 

they’re in the habit of just taking things slow. 

Even after the investment in start-up costs, they 

weren’t in a rush to get to market. Their success 

is a marker of the painstaking nature of the 

planning and distilling process they developed. 

“We probably went through close to 100 

variations of recipes before we decided which 

one to use. We were confident then that we 

had something people would really like,” says 

co-owner Jordan van der Heyden. 

The 29-year-old and his business partners 

and co-founders — brother Nolan, 25, and 

long-time friend Cam Formica, also 29 — have 

set themselves up on 100 acres of the van 

der Heyden family farm, formerly a livestock 

operation. The partners, who grew up together 

in Ayr, wanted to test their entrepreneurial 

mettle and “find something different that we



could use the land for,” according to Jordan. 

Their own time-dependent version of gin 

was the immediate answer. They grow grains, 

lavender, and other crops, and keep honey 

bees. “With everything we grow, we make 

spirits,” he says. 

Nolan and Jordan both went to University 

of Waterloo. Formica attended Lakehead. 

That brought business, engineering and 

environmental science to the Willibald 

management table, along with some distilling 

education in the U.S. Distilling is Nolan’s 

responsibility, and he is broadening his 

understanding of the art and science of the 

process with schooling in Scotland. As for the 

name, it’s an inside family joke that everyone 

is now happy to share: Willibald is Jordan’s 

and Nolan’s grandfather’s middle name. “We 

were looking for something unique. He’s never 

been too fond of it, but he’s warmed up to it 

as a business name and wears a shirt with the 

brand,” says Jordan. 

It was 2012 when the trio was searching for 

a way to use the farm, recognizing that there 

were a lot of breweries out there. “We realized 

distilling was still in its infancy at that point. 

Only Dillon’s in Niagara and Still Waters in 

Toronto were in business at the time.” Today 

there are about 20 distilleries up and running. 

The Willibald facility is an old barn, 

refurbished but maintaining its post-andbeam 

character. There’s a retail store, and they 

give tours and offer complementary tastings. 

Until very recently, distilleries could not offer 

glasses of spirits in the way that breweries 

and wineries were able to. “We just got that 

privilege a few months ago and are serving 

cocktails at the farm. That’s been a great thing 

for us,” says Jordan. They’ve added a woodfired 

oven and have started serving food. 

Gin itself has a storied history. A grain 

distillate, it is initially distilled to a desired 

alcohol content and then distilled again along 

with an infusion of juniper berries and a range 

of herbs and botanicals. Water is added to 

establish the correct alcohol concentration — 

usually 80 to 95 proof — with the hope that 

the spirit will be aromatic and fairly light. At 

Willibald they have gotten that down pat, if 

their success is any indication. They started 

with the trial-and-error of home distilling 

and learned the theory side in the U.S. Those 

were the easy steps. “It took us a few years 

to get the necessary permits and zoning 

amendments,” says Jordan. The farm is zoned 

for agriculture, but distilling is considered 

an industrial process. “The authorities were 

extremely supportive, but because it was a 

new concept it took a long time.” 

Gin, by law, has to include juniper as a 

flavour component. “We also add caraway seed, 

grapefruit peel, cardamom, coriander and 

angelica root. Those ingredients flavour the gin, 

and from there we barrel it, and that’s where the 

colour comes from,” says Jordan. The blending 

process only takes about 10 days. Then comes 

the barrel aging — a time commitment of many 

months. After aging the contents of the barrels 

are blended and then bottled for shipping. 

The gin, which is constantly being distilled, 

is available at LCBO year-round. “Our first 

seasonal release will be later this summer. That 

will be in the realm of 1,500 to 2,000 bottles.” 

The current revival of the cocktail menu at 

bars and restaurants, and the bespoke, crafted 

impetus it carries, has meant that mixologists



not yet have what Jordan calls “the craft-spirit 

mentality” like they have for craft beer. “Once 

they’ve tried it, it’s a good sell for us,” he says. 

There’s more Willibald to look forward 

to. Gin accounts for only about one-third 

of their production. Whisky makes up the 

majority. However, that spirit, by virtue 

of Canadian law, must be aged a minimum 

of three years. “We haven’t been able to 

release any yet. We’ve been in production 

for a little over two years now, so in the next 

are constantly scanning product lines for the 

new and unique. Willibald fits the bill. At the 

time of this writing Willibald gin was the 

only barrel-aged gin available at the LCBO. 

“Gin is typically an unaged spirit. It’s clear 

and never been in oak, traditionally. But 

our gin looks a lot like whisky with its dark 

amber colour, and that’s because it spends 

anywhere from four to ten months in oak 

casks.” The results are what he calls a “whisky 

character” that bartenders are interested in 

because they can’t get it elsewhere. “It makes 

a phenomenal whisky sour,” he adds. 

A barrel-aged gin like Willibald lends itself 

to being sipped neat. For consumers who have 

never thought of drinking gin straight that’s 

something of a perceived obstacle that the 

company is trying to change. “Barrel aging 

really mellows out the spirit and cleans it up a 

bit, making it suitable if you do want to drink 

it neat or on the rocks. It’s quite smooth. 

There has been a remarkable appetite for 

good quality gin in an older demographic of 

customer we are seeing.” 

Identifying the exact nature of “local” is 

a bit of a mug’s game: it can mean different 

things to different people. But the concept 

does play a part in Willibald’s marketing 

strategy. “What we find is that a lot of the 

restaurants that are focussed on quality 

cocktails don’t necessarily put as much 

emphasis on local. They’re more concerned 

with the quality of the product,” Jordan says. 

That makes sense, of course — and that’s 

the way it should be — but he adds that this 

region has been supportive of this new entry 

into the marketplace, for being both local and 

of high quality. Willibald currently doesn’t 

have the competition that breweries and 

wineries do. Even at the LCBO, the product 

is unique, and that’s been good. They target 

establishments with specialty cocktail menus 

rather than venues that focus on volume. Yet 

even some better bars and restaurants may 

year or two we’ll have some whisky,” Jordan 

says. There are plans for spiced whisky with 

apple. “We’re also doing some work with the 

lavender we grow and we have honey bees 

at the farm.” That means Willibald, unique 

with its inventive gin, is continuing along the 

creative path they’ve forged for themselves, 

but they’re not rushing things. “We are 

playing around with quite a few things,” says 

Jordan. “We have the type of still that allows 

us to do anything with spirits, from gins 

and whiskies to fruit brandies. Those are the 

products we’re interested in pursuing. But 

because it’s aged, it takes time.” 

Willibald Farm Distillery 

1271 Reidsville Road, Ayr 

226-556-9941 

drinkwillibald.com 

ANDREW COPPOLINO is a Kitchener-based writer 

and broadcaster. He is publisher of Waterloo Region Eats 

(waterlooregioneats.com) a longstanding online resource 

dedicated to food, dining, restaurants, chefs, sustainability 

and agriculture. Andrew also serves as a regional 

Eatdrink Editorial Consultant. 

BROGAN McNABB is a Toronto-based fashion and 

lifestyle photographer. broganmcnab.com


Beer 

Seasonal Sensations 

Ciders and Sours, for Autumn 

by GEORGE MACKE 


Ciders and sours. As summer morphs 

into fall, these two styles of alcoholic 

beverages become top of mind for 

me. 

Craft ciders, led by cideries such as KW Craft 

Cider in Waterloo, are gaining momentum as 

both an alternative to white wine and, because 

ciders are fermented using fruit not grain, a 

gluten-free choice for an alcoholic beverage. 

Interest is such that some craft breweries 

— Walkerville in Windsor and Toboggan in 

London, for example — are adding their own 

takes on cider in-house, perhaps with wider 

distribution on the horizon. 

Sour beers have an exciting tartness, and 

are more enjoyable, sessionable and thirstquenching 

than an overly hopped IPA. We can 

thank Belgium for developing the style which 

has been embraced by many Ontario craft 

brewers, most notably Half Hours on Earth 

in Seaforth. Farmhouse sours, in theory, feature 

locally available ingredients and started 

as a low-alcohol style consumed around the 

fall harvest, as a lunchtime meal companion 

or end-of-day reward after hard hours in the 

fields. Look for words like lambic, Flanders red, 

gose, or Berliner weisse and chances are you’ve 

got a delightful sour in your hand. 

While many good examples of ciders and 

sours can be found at the LCBO and select 

grocery stores, beverage explorers know 

the best way to discover the talents of 

Southwestern Ontario cideries and brewers 

is to hit the road and buy direct, or 

use the breweries’ online stores if 

available. 

To whet your appetite, here’s a 

twelve-pack of sensational ciders and 

sours. 

KW Craft Sparkling Dry 

Cider —This flagship brand has 

been a consistent medal winner at 

the Great Lakes International Cider 

and Perry Competition in Michigan. 

This is 6.7 per cent alcohol (abv) and 

is refreshing on its own or with a 

cheese tray. 

Hammer Bent Original 

by Twin Pines — Made from a blend of 

Northern Spy, Ida Red, Golden Russett and 

Jonagold apples grown in the 

Thedford orchards, Hammer 

Bent Original leads a family 

of nine versions of cider and 

apple wine from Twin Pines. 

It’s their best, but Crack Willow, 

an apple wine made with 

Northern Spy, Ida Red, and Golden Russet 

piques the interest of beverage voyageurs. 

Against the Currant by Wellington 

Brewing — Available as part of the Welly 

CRAFT BEER 

MADE IN CHATHAM 

27 Adelaide st. south . Chatham Ont 

TAP ROOM . BEER SHOP . EVENTS . SNACKS 

sonsofkent.com 519-354-BEER (2337) 

now available at the LCBO!


Look for 

us in the 

LCBO! 

FAMILY OWNED & OPERATED • PROUDLY BREWED IN LONDON 

1030 ELIAS STREET, LONDON • 548-888-ALES 

Road Trip! 

Come to the Cowbell Farm in Blyth, Ontario 

“THE NO.1 CRAFT BREWERY IN CANADA TO VISIT.” 

—WAYNE NEWTON, FOOD & DRINK JOURNALIST 

40035 BLYTH ROAD, BLYTH, ON N0M 1H0 

1-844-523-4724 WWW.COWBELLBREWING.COM 

Rebooted Mix Pack Volume 4, 

Against the Currant is a purple monster 

of tang. Brewed in Guelph using 

Ontario black currants, there’s also 

a slight lemon flavour. The pack is at 

the LCBO or can be ordered through 

Wellington Brewing’s online store. 

Oak Aged Blueprint by Half 

Hours on Earth — Okay, 

it’s tough to keep up 

with what’s available at 

Half Hours on Earth in 

Seaforth, as versions of small batch 

sours come and go quickly. Half 

Hours updates its inventory availability 

each Thursday. Earth Oak 

Aged Blueprint is a 4.5% abv farmhouse 

saison. It’s aged in cider barrels, 

then blended with perry (aka 

cider made from pears) from Revel 

Cider in Guelph. Snag one of these to impress 

your friends. 

Hansel and Brett’el Farmhouse 

Blonde Ale by Forked 

River — Aged in chardonnay barrels 

for six months, Hansel and Brett’el 

is both light (4.6% abv) and flavourful, 

but not found by walking in the 

woods. Forked River suggests pairing 

it with a Cobb salad. Hansel and 

Brett’el is available only at the brewery 

bottle shop in London or through 

the Forked River online store. 

Berry Berliner by Innocente 

Brewing — This seasonal was brewed as a collaboration 

between Innocente of Waterloo and 

craft-loving Beertown Public House (locations in 

Waterloo, London, Cambridge, 

and Burlington). Brewed with 

raspberries and blackberries, 

it’s a nod to Ontario fruit 

farmers. It’s very light at 3.8% 

abv with an entry-level tartness. 

Innocente and Beertown 

have done six collaborative brews — keep an 

eye out for them. Berry Berliner is in cans at the 

brewery or available for growler fills. 

Sports by Refined Fool — Named in 

honour of sports being one 

of our most beloved universal 

conversation-starters (How 

‘bout those Leafs? Finally, 

eh?), Sports is 5.5% abv and 20 

IBU (International Bitterness 

Units). This saison uses boy


senberries. Tasting notes point out tangerine 

and honey flavours. Game on! 

Face for a Neck Tattoo by Refined 

Fool — Make it two for 

Sarnia’s craft brewery. This 

5.2% abv, 27 IBU saison uses 

Szechuan peppercorns. The 

name plays on tough guys 

softened by liking the taste 

of this one. 

Keyser Gose by Forked River 

— Brewers at London’s Forked River 

used lactobacillus followed by brewers 

yeast to create this new gently 

sour, citrusy gose, a beer style from 

Germany. It’s a brewery store/ 

Forked River online exclusive. 

Spirit of the Woods by Revel 

Cider — Guelph’s cider house collaborated 

with Dillon’s Small Batch 

Distillers of Beamsville 

to create this by aging 

the cider on spent gin 

botanicals. A gold medal 

winner at the Ontario Cider 

Awards in 2015, Spirit of 


the Woods is 6.9% abv. 

66 Pickup by Hoity Toity — A gold 

medal winner at the Great Lakes International 

Cider and Perry competition, 

66 Pickup veers to the dry side. Kudos 

to the rural Bruce County winery for 

rebranding this cider from its original 

name, Gravel Run, which left my throat 

dusty. This lightly carbonated cider is 

made with apples harvested in Grey 

and Bruce counties. 

Toboggan Cider — The Richmond Row, 

London brew pub aims to 

please by offering a pair of its 

own ciders, a dry and a sweet. 

Either works well for sitting 

on the restaurant’s patio and 

toasting the drop-off of your 

kid up the road at Western, 

but the nod goes to the dry version for its citrus 

undertone. Both are 6% abv. 

GEORGE MACKE is a craft beer lover exploring the 

breweries (and cideries) throughout Southwestern 

Ontario. 

BLACK SWAN 

BREWING COMPANY 

STRATFORD • ONTARIO 

It's what we drink. 

144 DOWNIE ST, STRATFORD 

BLACKSWANBREWING.CA 519 • 814 • 7926 @BLACKSWANBREWINGCO



The BUZZ 

Culinary Community Notes 

London 

We’re moving ahead as briskly as we can with an 

updated London’s Local Flavour Culinary Guide. 

We’re happy to report that all 30,000 copies we 

printed were distributed last year and we’ve been 

out of copies for several weeks. We got them out to 

important locations like tourism offices, the airport, 

farmers’ markets, and select restaurants, shops and 

cultural spots. This year we are excited to allow outof-town 

neighbours to take part in Local Flavour. Let 

us know if you would like to participate in the Guide. 

The recently launched Old South Farmers Market 

operates from 4 to 7 p.m. on Thursdays. Its debut 

last month drew large crowds to the host venue 

Storm Stayed Brewing Company. 

Join us in a celebration of local food and drink. 

The Artisanal Culinary Arts program at Fanshawe 

College will be hosting a Harvest Dinner to 

celebrate International Chefs Day on October 20. 

The dinner will feature five courses with drink 

pairings. 130 Dundas Street (Fanshawe’s new 

downtown campus). Tickets are $100 and available 

through fanshawec.ca/harvest 

Restaurateur Joe Duby has launched gNosh in the 

former Blu Duby space with entrances off Dundas 

Street and Market Lane. Using locally sourced, 

sustainable ingredients to create delectable fare 

is the passion of Chef Cynthia Beaudoin and her 

culinary team. gNoshbyJoeDuby.com 

Chef Dave Lamers and business partner Rob 

D’Amico of Abruzzi have started construction on 

Taverna 1331 in Hyde Park. Abruzzi welcomed Chef 

Justin Dafoe, a graduate of Stratford Chefs School, 

earlier this year. Dafoe is currently working at 

Abruzzi, and will be leading the kitchen team at the 

new restaurant. Follow Taverna on Instagram and 

Facebook. abruzzi.ca 

Palasad North is closed for renovations and 

will bring a new concept to the city around mid- 

November. The Palasad South location will be 

rockin’ as always. Stay tuned to their social sites for 

exciting updates on this new adventure. It’s exciting! 

After 11 years, the folks at True Taco have closed 

their Dundas Street operation. They will continue 

operating at the Market at Western Fair. They would 

like to thank their family, friends and customers 

who have supported them and made the experience 

tremendously memorable. “It has truly changed our 

lives, and we are excited to start a new chapter!” 

The recently opened Casa Cancun at 325 Wharncliffe 

Rd. South serves authentic Mexican fare and has 

a genuinely cantina-like ambience, although it is 

unlicensed. It serves excellent tacos and enchiladas 

and is located close to the Hyland Theatre. Tacos are 

50% off on Tuesdays! www.casacancun.ca 

Another great Latino hotspot is Lo Nuestro at 722 

Hamilton Road. The humble restaurant with great food 

has new owners and we are hearing great reports from 

our readers. lonuestrolatinrestaurant.com 

The Market at Western Fair will open on both 

Saturday (8am–3pm) and Sunday (11am–3pm) 

each week beginning October 6. Market Manager 

Dan Ross and Assistant Manager Courtney Berens 

481 Richmond Street 

519-432-4092 

garlicsoflondon.com


are working to grow attendance and improve 

the customer experience. Up to $400,000 will be 

invested in the Confederation Building location 

this year, including washroom upgrades and 

new cooler storage. Support local and include @ 

TheMarketWFD and use #MeetMeAtTheMarket 

when sharing on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter. 

westernfairdistrict/market 

Chef Chris Morrisson of the Katana Kafe will be at 

it again, switching up the menus for cooler weather 

during October. Come out and enjoy his mouthwatering 

dishes. Come for breakfast, get lost in time 

watching aviation, and find yourself staying for 

lunch and dinner. katanakafe.ca 

Bourbon Street, London’s destination for Cajun and 

Creole food on Oxford Street, has closed. 

The Village Teapot in Ilderton is owned and run by 

Gaynor Deeks and Jana Yassine. Gaynor is originally 

from the UK, Jana from Chatham, Ontario. They 

are tea drinkers and sandwich makers, and know 

a good scone when they see one. Located in one of 

the oldest properties in the town, believed to be 

at least 145 years old, the premises retain many 

period features. Beginning September Deeks and 

Yassine will again be offering Sunday Roast lunches 

Destination for the food lover 

Featuring specialty foods, 

kitchenwares, tablewares, 

cooking classes and gift baskets. 

115 King St., London Ontario 

jillstable.ca 519-645-1335 

NOW 

OPEN! 

We’re dedicated to making your experience perfect, 

whether it’s a romantic evening EatDrinkAd_2017.indd out, a night 

1 2017-04-19 2:28 

with good friends, a corporate function, or an 

important life event. We’re here to help. 

Using locally sourced, sustainable ingredients to 

create delectable fare is Chef Cynthia Beaudoin and 

gNosh’s culinary team’s passion. With an ever-evolving menu, focused 

on the seasons and executed to perfection, we’ll wow you with every 

bite. We have assembled a service team of accomplished pros to ensure 

your every need is taken care of. 

gNosh is excited to be part of Dundas Place, the newly created 

flex street, with construction anticipated to be finished in 

September 2018. 

125 Dundas Street, London 

Reservations: 519-601-8050 

www.gnoshbyjoeduby.com

Your love of all things Italian begins at 

Gift Cards 

Available 

519-652-7659 • HWY 401 & 4 • pastosgrill.com 

NEW 

AUTUMN 

MENU 

FLIGHTS & BITES 

HALF PRICE Sharing Plates & Oysters 

Tuesday–Friday from 3:30–5:30pm 

SUNDAY INDUSTRY NIGHTS 

20% OFF! 

NOW BOOKING CHRISTMAS PARTIES 

TUES–SAT Lunch & Dinner 11:30am to Close 

SUNDAY Brunch 11am & Dinner 

449 Wharncliffe Road South 

519.914.2699 


once a month. Usually these are scheduled at the 

beginning of each month but to accommodate a 

Turkey Dinner before Thanksgiving the first one 

will be Sunday September 30 from 12 p.m. to 2 p.m. 

Turkey with all the trimmings will be on the menu. 

Reservations required. thevillageteapot.ca 

Gino Parco of Porcino, the Italian hotspot on 

Southdale, has launched Veta Wine and Pasta 

Bar in the former Blu Duby North location at 745 

Fanshawe Park Road West. 

This year’s VegFest — London’s annual “plantbased 

party” — takes place Saturday, November 10, 

10 a.m. to 6 p.m., at the Metroland Media Agriplex, 

Western Fair District. A wide variety of vendors 

will be on site, offering food and drink samples and 

all kinds of support for a plant-based lifestyle. 

Admission is $5 (children 12 and under are free) and 

parking is free. vegfestlondon.com 

Museum London is hosting the inaugural “Night 

at the Forks” fundraising gala, featuring a tasting 

menu by one of the leaders pushing the vanguard 

of Indigenous cuisine, Chef Joseph Shawana 

of Kū-Kŭm Kitchen (one of Toronto Life’s Best 

Restaurants 2018). This will be the first time Chef 

Shawana will be creating his delicacies in the Forest 

City. Be prepared for creative dishes that combine 

fine dining techniques and traditional Indigenous 

recipes. For example, from the restaurant’s menu: 

Pemmican, Venison Gravlax, and Sweet Grass 

Cream Brûlée. The gala will take place throughout 

the Museum, with a concert in the new Centre at the 

Forks space. Funds raised will go towards children’s 

programming and other activities at Museum 

London. The gala seeks to spread awareness of 

modern Indigenous culture through food and 

music. Saturday, November 17 at 6:00 pm. 

Celebrating its sixth anniversary, The Root Cellar 

remains committed to working with local, organic, 

and sustainably focused farms in Southwestern 

Ontario. Through On the Move Organics, 

the worker-owners have forged meaningful 

relationships and continue to expand the network 

of organic farmers and producers they work with. 

Aranka Csárda is a family-run Hungarian restaurant 

on Longwoods Road just outside of Lambeth. The 

owners take pride in what they do and serve only 

authentic and quality food. The decor and colours of 

the restaurant are meant to mimic the feel of a real 

Hungarian Csárda. You’ll feel like you’re in a different 

country when you dine with them. 7447 Longwoods 

Road, London. aranka.ca 

Lou Dawg’s Southern BBQ has opened in the space 

previously occupied by Icarus on Richmond Row.


The Forest City Cookbook crew recently launched 

the book to considerable acclaim. It features over 

60 talented culinary artists and 40 dedicated local 

producers in a stunning 500-plus-page hardcover 

edition, with 135 recipes. There are still a few copies 

left for sale at Haymach Canada and Edge Food 

Equipment. forestcitycookbook.ca 

Jill’s Table fall cooking classes have a big season 

planned including classes on Vietnamese, How to 

Sous Vide, The Big Red Bowl, Cider & Food Pairing, 

Hands-On Pasta, Vegan Brunch, Gluten Free Baking, 

Sake & Sushi, Chinese Street Food, Festive Cookies, 

Cooking With Cast Iron, French Baking, Vegetarian 

Food & Wine Pairing, Inspiring Appetizers and so 

much more. jillsclasses.ca 

Thanksgiving Sunday (October 7) is the day to treat 

family and friends to turkey and all the trimmings, 

at Idlewyld Inn & Spa. Thanksgiving Sunday Brunch 

Buffet, sittings at 11 am & 1:30 pm. Children age 3 to 

12: 50% off. Thanksgiving Sunday Dinner, sittings 

at 5 pm & 7:30 pm, children age 3 to 12: 50% off. The 

Idlewyld is also accepting reservations for holiday 

parties. 36 Grand Ave, 519-432-5554, idlewyld.com 

The In Home Chef’s new fall cooking class schedule 

is here. Just click on the link to check out what 

SUNDAY BRUNCH 

11am−2pm 

Intimate 

Outdoor 

Courtyard 

Open 7 Days a Week 

Mon/Tues 11:30-10, Wed/Thurs 11:30-11, Fri/Sat 11:30-12, Sun 11-10 

$110 

Inclusive 

Friday, September 21st, 2018 

Scotch Tasting is Back! 

Simon Hooper Scotch Ambassador, will be showcasing a special Scotch blended 

from all their distilleries, only 64 cases in the world. Tickets available now. 

$79 

Inclusive 

Sunday, October 7th, 2018 | Brunch - $38.95 ~ Dinner - $42.95 

Thanksgiving Buffet at the Idlewyld 

Featuring turkey, all the trimmings, hot and cold sides, & a decadent dessert table! 

11:00am Brunch, 1:30pm Brunch, 5:00pm Dinner and 7:30pm Dinner. 

| Starts at 7:00 pm 

Ghouls Just Want to Have Fun! 

Ricki just moved to the neighbourhood four months ago, but already he’s been accused 

of stealing cats, soliciting foolish relationships, disregarding town building codes and 

he’s making enemies fast. In an effort to mend fences and reverse bad first impressions, 

Ricki decides to invite the neighbourhood to a god, old-fashioned Halloween party. 

36 Grand Ave, London • 519.432.5554 • www.idlewyldinn.com


they’ve got cooking. Chef Thomas Waite offers 

cooking classes, pop-up dinners and a private 

dining room. Waite will be partnering with other 

chefs and farmers this fall for pop-up dinners and 

events. theinhomechef.ca/cooking-classes/ 

Reverie is a Canadian-focused five-course tasting 

menu restaurant with optional wine pairings, 

operated by Chef Brian Sua-an and Jerrah Revilles. 

Chef uses modern and molecular techniques and 

applies them to his cuisine to make each dish 

uniquely his own. Chef is teaming up this fall with 


our food editor Bryan Lavery for a pop-up event 

featuring a menu inspired by Lavery’s former 

Murano Restaurant at the end of September. 

Reservations are required. 1–208 Piccadilly Street, 

519-914-6595, reverierestaurant.ca 

Thanksgiving Sunday (October 7) is the day to treat 

family and friends to turkey and all the trimmings, 

at Idlewyld Inn & Spa. Thanksgiving Sunday Brunch 

Buffet, sittings at 11 am & 1:30 pm. Children age 3 to 

12: 50% off. Thanksgiving Sunday Dinner, sittings 

at 5 pm & 7:30 pm, children age 3 to 12: 50% off. The 

Idlewyld is also accepting reservations for holiday 

parties. 36 Grand Ave, 519-432-5554, idlewyld.com 

Blackfriars Bistro & Catering is open on Mondays 

for lunch and dinner. Betty Heydon’s locallyacclaimed 

bistro continues to wow all age groups 

and recently celebrated its 22nd birthday. Chefs 

prepare innovative, seasonal blackboard specials 

with cutting-edge menus that respect tradition. 

Closed Sundays. 46 Blackfriars St., 519-667-4930, 

blackfriarsbistro.com 

Food Trucks on the Farm: It’s Heeman’s 5th annual 

Food Truck event on September 15 & 16 with unique 

food offerings from 10am to 3pm each day. This year’s 

trucks include local favourites plus a couple great food 

wagons on wheels from the K-W area.Look for, among 

others, Bifana Boys, Goodah Gastrotruck, My Big Fat 

Food Truck, ish & chips, Smokestacks & The Donut 

Diva. heeman.ca/food-trucks/ 

Matthew and Kristin Buckley of Powerhouse 

Brewing are setting up in the former Kellogg’s in 

the Albert Kahn-designed power plant. Generators 

that once churned out the energy to produce cereal 

have been replaced by a four-vessel, 20-barrel 

brewhouse. When Powerhouse’s taproom opens, 

it will feature eight taps: six Powerhouse or 

Tobermory beers plus two rotating among other 

craft breweries in London. The brewery is familyowned 

and operated, using quality Canadian-made 

From Recipe to Reality: How to Start A Food Business 

If you want to turn your winning recipe into a successful 

venture, then this seminar is for you! 

Tuesday, September 25 th , 2018 - FREE! (seating is limited!) 

Hosted in Partnership with: 

379 Dundas Street, Unit 220 | London, Ontario N6B 1V5 | 519-659-2882 | www.sbcentre.ca/foodbusiness


equipment. It will offer tastes, tours and memorable 

dining experiences. powerhousebrewery.beer 

Fanshawe’s College’s new $66-million downtown 

campus in the former Kingsmill’s department store 

is now open on time and on budget. The hospitality/ 

culinary and information technology programs 

have their new home in the downtown campus. 

Most of the third floor is devoted to state-of-theart 

kitchens and bakery. The culinary program 

will be showcased in Chef’s Table, a groundfloor 

restaurant that will help provide a training 

ground for culinary students and serve locallysourced 

food with a sustainable focus featuring 

international flavours. 

Culinary wizard Matt Reijnen, former chef at Pub 

Milos, has opened Pizzeria Madre in the space 

previously occupied by Manito’s Rotisserie at 111 

Wellington Street. We are already hearing glowing 

reports. pizzeriamadre.wixsite.com/book 

Olha and Anatolii Prytkova’s Happiness Coffee 

and Desserts opened its doors at 430 Wellington 

Street across from One London Place recently. The 

family owned business bakes all the European-style 

desserts from scratch, including specialty cakes, 

cupcakes and chocolates. 

Delighted to welcome you late fall 2018 

reserve@gracelondon.ca 

@gracerestaurantlondon 

@graceLDNONT 

FRESH. 

The essence of who we are. 

Visit us to sample over 70 oils and balsamics. 

Savour white & dark balsamic vinegars from Modena, Italy, 

paired with the freshest olive oils from across the globe. 

Bottling fresh in store since 2012. 

The 

Pristine 

live 

Est. 2012 

884 Adelaide Street N. | London | 519-433-4444 

www.thepristineolive.ca



Keto Health Foods is on the move! As of September 

8 they at a new location at 911 Commissioners Road 

East under a new name – ketolibriyum. 

Stratford 

Stratford is awash with culinary hubs where locals, 

visitors, chefs, farmers, artists and artisans gather, 

such as Market Square, Your Local Market Co-op, the 

Local Community Food Centre, Stratford Farmers’ 

Market at the Agri-plex (on Saturdays) and the Slow 

Food Farmers’ Market (on Sundays). There are many 

great retailers like Bradshaws Kitchen Detail, Downie 

WHOLESALE 

HAND ROASTED 

COFFEE BEANS 

FROM MY BUSINESS 

TO YOUR BUSINESS 

Quality, 

Consistency, 

and Value 

... in the roasting, 

in the delivery, 

and in the price. 

New Location! 

1-141 WORTLEY RD. 

London, Now Open 6 Days 

TM 

Street Bakehouse (“Really Good Bread from the Wrong 

Side of the Tracks”), Watson’s Chelsea Bazaar and 

Milky Whey Fine Cheese Shop. The recently opened 

Grounded is Stratford’s only purely plant-based café. 

facebook.com/ Groundedraw/ 

The Planet Diner, with candy-apple red upholstered 

booths and a ’50s vibe, is warm and welcoming, 

with enthusiastic and well-informed staff. Owner 

Dee Christensen says, “This is where herbivores can 

bring their carnivore friends.” Most items on the 

menu are derived from plant-based ingredients, but 

there are meat-based options. There’s just nothing 

like the Chick’un burger made in-house with vegan 

buffalo butter. Try the cashew-based banana split, 

bound to be a hit even with die-hard ice cream 

lovers. 118 Downie Street. theplanetdiner.com 

Digi Writing + Literary Festival: A literary festival 

with a culinary twist. The Appetite for Words 

Festival program is a partnership between the 

Stratford Writers Festival and Stratford Chefs 

School, featuring authors who have written about 

food and fiction writers who have food as a strong 

component of their novels. Chefs and students 

from Stratford Chefs School develop and prepare 

menus inspired by featured books so you can 

taste the words you’re reading. Appetite for Words 

revolves around storytelling and is created for the 

enthusiastic and curious — anyone interested in 

reading, discussing and consuming food (that’s you, 

right?). There will also be educational workshops 

and tasting sessions. At literary dinners and 

lunches, food is matched with authors’ readings, so 

participants can taste the words they’re hearing. 

During workshops, participants can build their 

skills and increase their knowledge of both 

the culinary and literary arts. From a literary 

picnic-style farm lunch to a food photography 

workshop, come whet your appetite for literature. 

stratfordwritersfestival.com/literary-events/ 

appetite-for-words-festival/ 

We have a Latte to be thankful for... 

and it’s Pumpkin Pie Spice Season! 

223 Colborne St., Port Stanley 519-782-7800 • 1-141 Wortley Rd., London 519-601-6610 

The Market at Western Fair, 900 King St. London Sat. 8–3 • www.peppertreespice.com


Olive Your Favourites let us know their new 

Southern Hemisphere extra virgin olive oils (EVOO) 

have arrived from Chile and South Africa and the 

customer-favourite Hojiblanca EVOO from Australia 

is due at any moment. oliveyourfavourites.com 

Raja Fine Indian Cuisine is the place for authentic 

Northern Indian food in Stratford. Raja offers upscale 

cuisine in sophisticated and elegant surroundings, 

and knowledgeable, well-trained staff. The service 

is white linen, and professional but friendly. Foods 

are prepared from scratch with fresh ingredients. 

The heat quotient of dishes can be adjusted to your 

preferences. Raja offers milder Indian fare such as 

Butter Chicken, Korma, and Tikka Masala. 10 George 

Street West, rajastratford.ca 

Milky Whey offers Cheese Pairings workshops 

starting October 27. visitstratford.ca/partner/The- 

Milky-Whey-Fine-Cheese-Shop 

The Bruce Restaurant offers delicious events 

including a complete take away Thanksgiving dinner! 

visitstratford.ca/partner/The-Bruce-Restaurant 

Savour Stratford Chocolate Trail. If you’re a chocoholic 

this is the trail for you! What could be better 

than spending an afternoon (or two) strolling 

Hey Cupcake! 

where art is 

a piece of cake 

The ORIGINAL 

LONDON CAKERY & 

GOURMET CUPCAKE 

BAKERY 

Fall Food Fest 

Saturday, September 29 10am–1pm 

Celebrate the harvest and come to the Farmers’ 

Market for this annual family-friendly event. 

Celebrate our local farmers and enjoy the fall 

season. In partnership with Growing Chefs, we 

will be hosting a free 

corn roast, children’s 

activities, live music, 

a cooking class 

and a contest 

with local chefs. 

Family Pumpkin Patch 

Saturday, October 20 10am–1pm 

Enjoy lots of fun for the kids including crafts, a 

bouncy castle, face painting, entertainment, 

seasonal treats and more. Kids, don’t forget to 

dress up in your Halloween costumes! 

Vegan Cooking Workshop 

Thursday, September 20 6:30 pm–8:30 pm 

Learn to make fabulous vegan meals in a small 

class. You will cook, eat and take home all the 

yummy recipes. Go to our website to register! 

FREE Cooking Classes are held Saturdays, 

11am–noon, upstairs in the Market Kitchen, 

until September 22. 

FREE PARKING 

With Validation 

Half Hour Weekdays 

ASK US Custom Bakery • Walk-In Orders Available 

ABOUT OUR 

“RANDOM 

ACTS OF 

SWEETNESS!” 

CAMPAIGN 

www.heycupcake.ca 

275 Wharncliffe Rd. North 

519-433-CAKE (2253) 

STORE HOURS: Mon–Fri 11–7 

Saturday 10–5 • Sunday 11–4 

Market Hours 

Monday to Saturday 

Mezzanine & Restaurant Hours Differ


the Victorian streets of Stratford and sampling 

chocolate? The self-guided Chocolate Trail is 

offered year-round. Tickets are just $30 (+HST), are 

valid for one week from the date of purchase, and 

can be used at six of the 27 stops. visitstratford.ca/ 

chocolatetrail 

Savour Stratford Bacon and Ale Trail. This selfguided 

walking trail includes vouchers that you 

can use at 5 stops. Each voucher will entitle you to 

a “tasting” of unique bacon and ale inspired treats 

and the chance to speak to Stratford and area’s 

“a gastronomical landmark for over 22 years” 

Bistro & Catering 

Lunch Mon–Fri 

Dinner Mon–Sat 

Dietary Needs Accommodated | Ample Free Parking 

Available for Private Parties 

46 Blackfriars Street, London | 519-667-4930 

blackfriarsbistro.com 

Far Out ... 

but we like it that way! 


culinary stars while visiting restaurants and retail 

locations. This trail is offered year-round and is 

valid for one week from the date of purchase ($30 

+HST). visitstratford.ca/bacontrail 

Around the Region 

Alton Farms Estate Winery, a pioneer estate winery 

and vineyard in Ontario’s emerging wine region, 

Huron Shores, is featured in this issue’s Wine 

column. In late-breaking news, the winery just 

celebrated their fifth anniversary with fresh new 

graphics and signage. altonfarmsestatewinery.com 

Lambton County continues to add to its fine list 

of beverage producers, which also includes Twin 

Pines Cider House in Lambton Shores, Refined Fool 

Brewing Co. in Sarnia, and the Munro Meadery 

in Alvinston. Just around the corner from Alton 

Farms Estate Winery, the Stonepicker Brewing 

Company taproom and retail outlet is now open, 

Thursday to Sunday. Partners Mary & Joe Donkers 

and Laura and Jim Soetemans are brewing ales, 

lagers and stouts from the Donkers farm, where 

they are also growing some of their own barley. 

7143 Forest Road, Plympton-Wyoming (Forest) 

stonepickerbrewingcompany.com 

Stonetown Artisan Cheese is a purveyor of Swiss 

mountain-style cheeses, hand-crafted by master 

cheesemaker Ramon Eberle. Using unpasteurized 

milk from farmers Hans and Jolanda Weber’s 

herd of Holsteins, Eberle uses raw milk so that the 

cheese ripens as naturally as possible while the 

flavours improve with maturation. Cheeses and 

other local products are available to buy on-site 

at the farm store. Guided group tours are $5 per 

person (60–90 minutes for a minimum 15 people). 

5021 Perth County Line 8 (Kirkton Road), St. Marys, 

519-229-6856, stonetowncheese.com 

Fat Olive, a new Italian-inspired family-friendly 

restaurant in Dorchester, has opened at 2135 

Dorchester Road. fatolive.ca 

Blair Rd 

London 

International 

Airport 

Crumlin Rd 

Oxford St 

½ Price 

Bottle of Wine Wednesdays 

$5 

| 16-oz Pints Thursdays | 

Check out our Stormy Skies & 

Caesar, Caesar, Caesar Sunday 

519-455-9005 

katanakafe.ca 

2530 Blair Rd, London 

Diamond Flight Centre 

Lunch Mon–Fri 11–3 • Dinner Wed–Sun from 5pm • Weekend Breakfast 9–12, Lunch 12–3, Dinner 5–9


Chris and Mary Woolf have ceased operations of 

Little Red’s in St Marys and retired at the end of 

August. Congratulations go out for two successful 

and celebrated careers in hospitality, and best wishes 

for many enjoyable years in retirement. Cheers! 

Heritage Grain Weekend and Bread Camp is an 

opportunity to educate and connect growers, 

millers, bakers and chefs who are creating a rise in 

demand for local grains. This program will increase 

a baker’s capacity to procure and utilize regionally 

grown whole grains to help build and develop the 

regional food shed. Bread Camp is for chefs, cooks 

and bakers, and those with an interest in baking 

who want to gain more knowledge in the versatility 

of using specialty grains. October 19, 20 and 21. 

cktable.ca/regenerate-event-weekend-2018/ 

Taste Detours highlights Guelph’s history by mapping 

it from one culinary experience to the next, offering an 

authentic “taste of place.” Lynn Broughton, founder 

of Taste Detours (tastedetours.ca, 1-866-736-6343), 

is a certified Food Tour Professional, a passionate 

and knowledgeable guide. Guelph has stunning 

architecture, a strong cultural fabric and a rich history 

that Taste Detours explores through food and drink 

experiences. tastedetours.ca 

Living 

Energy! 

Conveniently packaged, living and ready to eat. 

Just snip, rinse & serve! 

Available at Wholesalers, Fine Restaurants 

& Retailers, and at our Farm Gate Retail 

7496 Calvert Dr., Strathroy ON 

519-245-1339 

www.slegersgreens.com 

NOW OPEN! 

Veta Wine and Pasta Bar 

745 Fanshawe Park Road (formerly Blu Duby) 

519-474-1111


Since 1969 Kitchener-Waterloo Oktoberfest has 

developed its own traditions, combining the largest 

Bavarian festival in North America with the greatest 

Thanksgiving Day Parade in Canada. Thousands of 

visitors celebrate annually in the Festhallen and 

by attending one or more of 40 family and cultural 

events. The local economy is stimulated through the 

celebration of this spirit of Gemuetlichkeit, and over 

70 charities and not-for-profit organizations raise 

funds to support the high quality of life enjoyed in 

Kitchener-Waterloo. Tickets for the 50th Anniversary 

event (October 5–13) are on sale now. oktoberfest.ca 

Experience Hessenland Inn & Vineyard 

Where heritage is infused into every vine and vintage 

Join us for one of our 

Signature Events & Experiences! 

• Thanksgiving Buffet & Dinner 

• 3rd Annual Long Table Dinner 

• Novemberfest 

• Fall SOULitude & MORE! 

Accommodations • Award-Winning Gardens • Private Beach Access 

Vineyard • Dining Room with European & Locally Inspired Fare 

Located steps from Lake Huron between Grand Bend & Bayfield 

Call 519-236-7707 or 866-543-7736 

hessen@hessenland.com • www.hessenland.com 

Reservations required for all events 


Early Bird Coffee will be moving to 815 Juliana 

Drive in Woodstock. Their focus is on producing 

top quality coffee that is sustainable, economically 

supportive. early-bird.ca 

Truffle Camp: Handcraft a dozen of your own 

delicious and gourmet truffles alongside Cindy 

Walker of Chocolatea. Learn how to use flavours 

from Southwestern Ontario to create a selection 

of delicious ganaches as you step into the role of 

chocolatier. $75.00 per person + HST. Chocolatea, 

Ingersoll, chocolatea.ca/product/truffle-camp 

Preserving Workshops: Join Rural Oxford and Chef 

Murray Zehr to learn how to preserve the season’s 

freshest produce. From workshops on salsa and 

beets to apples 101, you’ll love exploring ways to eat 

local all year long. roedc.ca/preserving 

A Taste Of Port is celebrating the food of Central 

Elgin, and the wine and craft beers of the region. 

Come and join them as they launch the first Food 

Festival September 21 to 23 in beautiful Port 

Stanley. portstanley.net/a-taste-of-port/ 

A trip to Port wouldn’t be the same without a stop 

at Shaw’s Ice Cream. It’s been serving up “delicious 

old fashioned ice cream made the way it should be” 

and is celebrating its 75th birthday. Shaw’s offers 

a wide selection of hard ice cream, fruit sorbets, 

frozen yogurt, thick milkshakes, decadent sundaes 

and celebratory ice cream cakes. 6598 Sunset Drive, 

St. Thomas. 519-631-2510. shawsicecream.com 

Ottercreek Woodworks is opening their doors 

to offer an exclusive Tree to Table Experience to 

visitors interested in crafting a beautiful live-edge 

charcuterie board with the woodworker himself. 

Explore a Carolinian forest, savour a charcuteriestyle 

lunch and of course, create something 

beautiful with your own hands in an environmentally 

conscious way. $250.00 per person + HST, Ottercreek 

Woodworks, Burgessville. ottercreekwoodworks.ca. 

Featuring 

Creative Menus 

from Chefs 

Erryn Shephard 

& 

Ben Sandwith 

Always Available 

for Caterings! 

519.238.6224 

42 Ontario St. S., Grand Bend 

www.finearestaurant.com 

Lunch and Dinner — Seasonal Hours 

Reservations Recommended


In case you missed our story online about 

truLOCAL, check the link at eatdrink.ca/dealingwith-dragons-trulocal-focuses-on-the-meat-ofthe-matter/. 

This home delivery service has some 

cool options for purchasing quality local proteins 

and for a limited time is offering Eatdrink readers 

a special offer. Use the EATDRINK10 code for a 10% 

discount on your order! trulocal.ca 

The 12th Annual Taste Real Fall Rural Romp is a 

self-guided tour of Guelph and Southern Wellington 

County farms, markets and local food businesses. 

Experience a day in the countryside, meet local 

farmers, eat, learn about food and experience the 

local bounty. Saturday September 29. wellington. 

ca/en/business/tr-fallruralromp.aspx 

We want your BUZZ! 

Do you have culinary news or upcoming events 

that you’d like us to share? 

Every issue, Eatdrink reaches more than 

50,000 readers across Southwestern Ontario 

in print, and thousands more online. 

Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca and/or 

connect directly with our Social Media Editor 

Bryan Lavery at bryan@eatdrink.ca 

Submission deadline for the next issue is October 5. 

519-565-2576 

LakeHouseofBayfield.com 

BISTRO 

CONFERENCE 

SUITES 

SPA 

Fresh Local 

Huron County Produce 

Free Range and Grass Fed 

Beef, Chicken, Pork & Lamb 

519-524-0773 

79988 Porter’s Hill Line/Hwy 8 

just east of Goderich 

519-565-2576 

LakeHouseofBayfield.com


In Memoriam 

Paul Leigh Smith, 1928–2018 

Founder of Hasbeans, Covent Garden Market 

Contributed by Joel McMillan 

“It’s for you, Papa.” I say handing him the phone. 

“Oh, hello Sandra, you’re looking well!” He’s 

got that sparkle in his eye, with a laugh just below 

the surface. I often wondered how many people 

he caught off guard with that simple greeting. Did 

they thank him with an automatic response and 

then later think, “Hey, wait a minute ... what? Is he 

watching me?!” 

That was him. Constantly cracking jokes, ranging 

from ridiculously inappropriate to little kid corny 

“dad” jokes. He also had an amazing ability to call up 

images from his past, images that would transport 

you to the very places that had affected him with 

so much awe and wonder. Whether he was driving 

through mountain ranges or sitting on his deck up 

north by the lake or with people from back in the day, 

you were there with him through his words. 

I think one of the most inspiring aspects of Papa 

was his ability to immerse himself in business without 

becoming inhuman. I believe that’s why he was able to 

overcome the many obstacles that any entrepreneur 


faces. Many many 

years ago, when his 

father Paul Smith Sr. 

ran businesses in the 

market, Papa was 

filling in the blanks 

and doing a lot of 

damage control. With 

the help of my mom 

Deb, Papa’s daughter 

who started working 

with Papa at a very 

young age, and with 

his head held high, 

he pulled those 

businesses out of debt and continued to evolve and 

better himself and the whole family. 

When he conceived of Hasbeans in 1969, Papa 

was truly swimming in unknown waters. Coffee 

roasting was absolutely unheard of in North 

America. It didn’t take long to catch on though, and 

Hasbeans has been (wink wink nudge nudge) firing 

delicious coffee into your mouths since! 

You might have known my Papa as a man who 

kicked alcohol 50 years ago. You might have known 

him as a man who smiles and plays with your kids 

growers & creators of fine lavender products 

DISCOVER 

Steed & Company Lavender, part of a 

45-acre horse farm just outside of Sparta 

INDULGE 

in our unique handcrafted lavender products 

ESCAPE 

in the wonderful scent and 

calming powers of lavender 

519-494-5525 

47589 Sparta Line, Sparta 

buds@steedandcompany.com 

Open Wed–Sat 10-5; Sun 12–4 

Mother’s Day to Dec. 19 

PLUS June–Labour Day: Tues 10-5 

www.steedandcompany.com 

Visit Our Website 

• Online Store 

• Recipes 

& much more! 

LUNCH Wed to Fri 11:30–2:30 

DINNER from 5pm daily 

432 Richmond Street 

at Carling • London 

ALWAYS 

a 3-course prix fixe 

menu option 

www.davidsbistro.ca


when your family swings by the market. You might 

have known him to help you when life felt it was 

at its worse, to guide you to a better you. He truly 

was an inspiration to everyone he crossed paths 

with and his mark has been softly yet permanently 

recorded in many of our hearts. 

As Mom and I fully take over the reigns of the 

shop and all that it means to run a business in this 

modern world, I’m reminded of the love, time, and 

Anthony Michael Bourdain, 1956–2018 

Chef, writer and broadcaster 

Contributed by Holly Granken 

When we heard the news that Anthony 

Bourdain had taken his own life, we were in 

shock. In one way or another, he had an impact 

on anyone who works in a kitchen. He was 

cool, he was a bad-ass and he worked damn 

hard — something all of us pride ourselves 

on. We read his books, we watched his shows, 

he was awesome. I wanted to do something 

to honour him. I’ve always loved the cover of 

Kitchen Confidential. It’s a photo of a young Tony 

with two other chefs. They’re leaning against a 

graffiti-covered wall holding huge knives with 

self-satisfied smirks on their faces. I wanted to 

The Best Ingredients 

Deserve the Best Tools 

National 

Houseware 

Retailer of 

the Year 


energy Deb and Paul put into this glorious little 

magic bean shop. The sacrifices were worth it, and I 

know he will live on through us, the fourth and fifth 

generation in the market. I wouldn’t be half the man 

I am today without his soul, love and charity. Come 

on by the shop if you miss him. He will always be 

there ... crackin’ jokes. 

— Joel McMillan is Paul Smith’s grandson and a 

proprietor at Hasbeans in Covent Garden Market. 

recreate that golden moment with my own crew. I 

hope you will consider this for publication. 

— Holly Granken is a photographer (Studio 575) 

and a baker at Plant Matter Bistro in London. 

Discover Heather's 

Incomparable Journeys 

Graduation? 

Celebration? 

Reunion? 

ALWAYS 

Something 

New for 

Your Kitchen! 

Knives • Baking • Cookware 

Dinnerware • Widgets • Canadiana 

MON–FRI 9:30–5:30 • SAT 9:30–3 

129 South Mitton 31 St. Nottinghill Sarnia ONGate, Suite 203, 

519-332-0880 kitchen-widgets.com 

Oakville ON TICO#50013851 

Villa Vacation in Provence, France 

A unique property, on a private vineyard with pool & 

tennis court, with Roman history. Apartments for 2–6 

people or take the entire property for up to 18 people. 

Reconnect as a family or group of friends and share 

special experiences to create a lifetime of memories! 

www.heathersincomparablejourneys.ca 

For any and all of your travel needs 

519-473-8591 

Heather Wilkinson 

Regional Office: 31 Nottinghill Gate, Suite 203, Oakville 

TICO#50013851



Theatre 

World Curious, London Proud 

This Season at The Grand Theatre 

By JANE ANTONIAK 

The culinary world often champions 

the eating local philosophy. At the 

Grand Theatre in London, artistic 

director Dennis Garnhum puts his 

own spin on the local movement. The Grand’s 

vision is to be “World Curious, London 

Proud.” The new season of 12 productions on 

two stages, which kicks off in September with 

the High School Project and wraps up in May 

with Mamma Mia!, pays tribute to this vision 

with internationally acclaimed and locallyinfused 

productions. 

Local 

It all starts with a uniquely London tradition: 

The High School Project and the controversial 

decision to produce Prom Queen: The Musical. 

There was criticism from some long-time 

educational partners who felt the topic was 

not appropriate for younger audiences, but 

the controversy spurred on a successful 

crowd-funding campaign. In turn, The Grand 

announced it would use the funds to offer 

1,600 complimentary tickets to schools. It 

runs September 18 to 29. Meanwhile advance 

sales have doubled over the previous season, 

according to The Grand. The production, 

directed by Garnhum, stars London high school 

student Devon Kenway and features more 

than 50 students on stage and another 30 back 

David Webber and Fisayo Akinade in Barber Shop Chronicles 

at The National Theatre. Photo by Marc Brenner 

stage. They receive mentoring by professionals 

in all aspects of theatre production through 

this unique program, now it its 22nd year. 

Prom Queen was developed by the Musical 

Theatre Project at Sheridan College. It is based 

on the real-life story of a teenager, Marc Hall, 

who wanted to bring his same-sex partner to 

the high school prom, and the controversy 

that ensued. It is described as being suited for 

youth in Grade 7 and beyond. 

Vigilante, the story of the locally famous 

Black Donnellys of Lucan — think 1880s 

massacre in a rural setting with a modernday 

rock musical score — returns to the 

Grand February 19 to March 9. It was last 

here in 2016, when it played to sold-out 

houses. Ironically, it is an Edmonton company, 

Catalyst Theatre, which tells the story 

so many locals know by heart. 

World 

Being “world curious” is depicted by Garnhum’s 

accomplishment in bringing Barber Shop 

Chronicles from the National Theatre in London, 

England to this London for its only Canadian 

performance. As of late June, the show was 

already 50% sold out for the run from November 

15 to 24 on the Spriet Stage. This high-energy 

production takes the audience to barber 

shops around the world to hear discussions by 

African men. From our London it 

heads to the Kennedy Centre in 

Washington, D.C. We are certainly 

fortunate to have Garnhum 

spotting such hits and bringing 

them to our community. 

The Brits return at Christmas 

with the second annual production 

of A Christmas Carol, 

December 5 to 29. This is a 

reprise of Garnhum’s spectacular 

adaptation of 2017, featuring iceskating, 

ghosts, and the re-birth 

of the human spirit. This year 

theatre-goers will see the lobby


transformed into an artisanal market with local 

vendors, artists, carolers and more, including 

treats and cider. This is sure to warm your holiday 

season! 

Our American neighbours bring us the 

Pulitzer Prize-winning production of August 

Wilson’s Fences, March 19 to April 6. This is a 

look at Pittsburgh in the 1950s through the 

eyes of a former Negro League baseball star, 

now a garbage collector. 

National 

The Grand has a focus on global and local 

stories, as well as being proudly national with 

the beloved story of Maggie & Pierre as well 

as Margaret Atwood’s The Penelopiad, which is 

directed by Canadian Megan Follows. 

If you reach far enough back in the time 

machine you will remember Follows as Anne 

of Green Gables, or as Juliet at the Stratford 

Festival opposite a young Antoni Cimolino. 

This Canadian-made story retells Homer’s 

Odyssey through the eyes of Penelope, the wife 

of Odysseus. It runs January 22 to February 9. 

For those with long theatrical memories 

or who were swept up in Trudeaumania, the 

nostalgic show of the season will be Maggie 

& Pierre. This epic Canadian love story runs 

February 12 to 23, and has already been 

extended. The one-woman show tells the story 

of a young Maggie Sinclair falling in love with 

Canada’s dashing, and much older, Prime 

Minister Pierre Elliot Trudeau. I first saw this 

as a teenager in Toronto and can’t wait to see 

it again decades later! It stars Kaitlyn Riordan 

who portrays many characters, including the 

love-struck couple, their parents, members of 

the media, and more. 

Timothy Findley’s The Wars runs from October 23 to, fittingly, 

November 11, the 100th anniversary of The Great War. 

PortStanley FestivalTheatre 

IMPROV 

NIGHT 

Cash Bar, Appezers & Laughs! 

Join Us for a Night of Holiday Improv 

Saturday December 1 8pm 

LINK theatre & PortStanleyFestivalTheatre 

presents a really Retro 

CROONER Christmas 

featuring Rick Kish 

& Connor Boa 

with those 

fabulous Croonettes 

&The Nevin 

Campbell Trio 

Saturday December 8 

2pm & 8pm 

$ 

30* PER TICKET OR 

BUY BOTH EVENTS FOR $ 50* 

these Events are PSFT Fundraisers 

*Prices subject to HST/Handling 

To Purchase Tickets 

519-782-4353 www.ps.ca 

acknowledgment of the 100th anniversary of 

the end of WWI, known as the war that was 

supposed to end all wars. This fittingly runs 

in the weeks leading up to Remembrance Day, 

October 23 to November 11 — a poignant day 

to close the show. There will be several events 

around this production including a pre-show 

theatre talk on November 7 at noon by James 

Reaney, long-time London Free Press arts 

writer (now retired). 

Another Ontario journalist, Ian 

Brown (CBC, Globe and Mail), brings 

us The Boy in the Moon, November 

20 to December 1. It is based on a 

true story of a family that includes a 

severely disabled son, Walker. 

The Grand season wraps up with 

the feel-good musical, Mamma Mia! 

April 23 to May 11, 2019. The music of 

Abba, and a complicated love/family 

story will take us into the summer on 

a high note! 

A “world curious” production with a 

national slant is The Wars by Timothy Findley. 

Adapted and directed by Garnhum, it is his 

JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to Eatdrink. 

She is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations, 

at King’s University College in London.


2018/1 


9 

Book a SEASON PACKAGE and SAV E up to 25% 

Cabaret 

come to the kit kat 

club...if you dare 

Only Canadian stop on North American tour! 

From London, England’s National Theatre 

Barber Shop 

Chronicles 

The global smash-hit musical 

The Donnellys return in this pulsing rock musical 

Vigilante 

“ ” 

LONDON FREE PRESS 

grandtheatre.com 519.672.8800 

se ason 

sponsor



Music 

Change of Season 

Upcoming Highlights on the Music Scene 

By GERRY BLACKWELL 

Photo by Rachelle Richard-Léger 

The season has begun. That’s what 

they used to call it, when all the 

cultural and social events in a city 

started again in the fall: the season. 

London this year has an exciting jam-packed 

music season, with something for everyone. 

Roxanne Potvin 

Kick it off with Montreal-based Junonominated 

singer-songwriter Roxanne Potvin 

at London Music Club Friday, September 

14. Potvin is touring a new five-song EP, a 

follow-up to her 2016 album, For Dreaming. 

Know her name, but can’t place Potvin’s music? 

Check it out here: goo.gl/Zwnk7A. 

Also on September 14, Stratford’s Revival 

House (revival.house) presents Gypsy Kumbia 

Orchestra from Montreal, a potent mix of 

Afro-Colombian music and dance, with the 

brass and violin melodies of Eastern Europe, 

combining live music, choreographed dance, 

circus, theatrical staging and dynamic audience 

interaction. Taking over dance floors wherever 

they go, the 16-piece Juno-nominated group 

Gypsy Kumbia 

Orchestra 

formed three years ago and has won numerous 

awards. They will also participate in the TD 

Sunfest World Music & Jazz Series with 

an appearance at Aeolian Hall on Saturday, 

October 13, where they received an enthusiastic 

reception back in May. sunfest.on.ca 

Then on Saturday, September 15, London 

Symphonia, the surviving core of the old 

Orchestra London, kicks off its season 

at Metropolitan United Church with 

“Revolutionary Tales.” The program features 

rising star Kerson Leong in Sergei Prokofiev’s 

Violin Concerto No. 1 and Hector Berlioz’s 

great Symphonie Fantastique. CBC Radio host 

Tom Allen emcees the evening. 

London’s venerable Jazz for the People 

series keeps trucking along. The fall season 

opens Wednesday, September 19 at Wolf 

Performance Hall with a show featuring 

vocalist Rick Kish and The Ken Foster 

Quartet. It’s always free, always fun. 

Magisterra 

Soloists 

Classical music seems to be undergoing a 

renaissance in London. Magisterra Soloists 

is a relatively new chamber music ensemble 

in town — based here but touring widely. The 

musicians kick off their season at Museum 

London on Thursday, September 20 with 

“Aimez-vous Brahms?” The concert features 

guest soloists Kyoko Hasimoto, a Montrealbased 

pianist, and world-renowned Dutch 

Photo by Viara Mileva


violist and composer Vladimir Mendelssohn. 

The program includes Brahms’ iconic G-minor 

piano quartet, and a less familiar work, the 

powerful piano quintet by Louis Victor Jules 

Vierne (1870-1937). 

Dala 

Aeolian Hall has a great season this fall. 

Dala, an award-winning folk duo with 

heavenly harmonies, is in Friday, September 

28. Amanda Walther and Sheila Carabine 

have been singing together since high school, 

and writing insightful folk songs for almost 

as long. They always turn in a polished, 

entertaining performance. 

If folk is your flavour, the Cuckoo’s Nest 

Folk Club is the (other) place to be. The longrunning 

series is on at Chaucer’s Pub for 

another season. On Monday, October 1, direct 

from Scotland, it’s North Sea Gas! Don’t know 

the Gas? Check ‘em out here: goo.gl/a18hzm. 

Hint: it’s three Scottish blokes playing spirited 

Celtic folk music. You really can’t go wrong. 

Speaking of Celtic, Jimmy Rankin of the 

Rankin Family is at Aeolian Hall on Wednesday, 

October 3. Rankin recently moved back to Nova 

Scotia from Nashville and is touring a new 

album, aptly named Moving East. It’s billed as a 

Cape Breton kitchen party on disc and features 

his trademark east-coast folk-rock sound. “I 

was trying 

to distill 

the fabric 

of Maritime 

culture into 

a musical 

collection 

replete with 

life’s highs 

and lows,” 

Rankin 

says of the 

album. 

The music 

performance 

Jimmy Rankin 

schedule 

at Western 


U’s Music Faculty gets into high gear when 

renowned American concert pianist Sara 

Davis Buechner appears Friday, October 5. 

She plays at the Paul Davenport Theatre in 

Talbot College. Buechner appears as part of the 

Parsons and Poole Legacy Concert series, created 

to honour pioneering Music Faculty members 

Margaret Parsons and Clifford Poole. For 

more about Western Music: goo.gl/YUs1vo. 

Yet another memorial concert series, the 

Jeffery Concerts, is bringing in internationally 

praised Canadian concert violinist James 

Ehnes. The Guardian newspaper called Ehnes, 

“effusively lyrical … hair-raisingly virtuosic.” 

He appears with pianist and frequent recording 

and performing partner Andrew Armstrong. 

They’re at Wolf Performance Hall on 

Wednesday, October 10. The program includes 

works by Beethoven, Ravel, Brahms and 20th 

century American composer John Corigliano. 

James Ehnes 

You see what we mean about a renaissance 

of classical music. But if classical isn’t your cup 

of tea, how about good ol’ Jann Arden. The 

much-loved Canadian singer-songwriter — 

and broadcaster, speaker, actor and author — 

is at Budweiser Gardens, also on Wednesday, 

October 10. Arden has a new album, These Are 

The Days. The London date kicks off a national 

tour for the disc. 

The TD Sunfest World Music & Jazz Series 

2018-19 is bringing multi-award-winning 

British folk trio The Young’uns to the 

The Young’uns


Cuckoo’s Nest Folk Club (Chaucer’s Pub) on 

Monday, October 15. The Young’uns, a capella 

specialists, sing traditional English and modern 

folk songs, including their own compositions. 

They have a new-ish album, 2017’s Strangers. 

Check out their music here: goo.gl/uFk2PH. 

Down the road in Chatham 

that same Wednesday, October 

15, it’s another multi-awardwinner, 

big-voiced home-grown 

indie-rock star Serena Ryder. 

She’s at the Capitol Theatre (238 

King St. W.) Ryder scarcely needs 

an introduction. She’s been 

wowing audiences at home in 

Canada and abroad for 20 years. 

She now has 10 albums to her 

credit, including last year’s twodisc 

Utopia. Big star, big show. 

London Symphonia is back 

on Tuesday, October 16, this time 

at Talbot Street Church, and with 

just the LS Winds. They’re playing 

an interesting program of works by modern 

composers with a London connection — Western 

U grad Jeff Smallman, former Music Faculty 

member Kenneth Bray and London-based jazz 


guitarist (and former UWO English prof) Oliver 

Whitehead. They’re also playing works by a couple 

of other guys called Brahms and Mozart. 

Prog-rock pioneers The Strawbs are at 

Aeolian Hall, also on Tuesday, October 16. 

They’re billing it as their farewell electric tour, 

the last time featuring the 

full band. The lineup includes 

original members Dave 

Cousins, Dave Lambert, Chas 

Cronk and Tony Fernandez, 

who were all there for the 

band’s classic 1970s albums. 

The group started over 50 years 

ago, double-billing early on 

with another up-and-coming 

band, The Rolling Stones. 

They played bluegrass at first, 

then folk-rock, then evolved 

to a more layered, melotronic 

Serena Ryder 

sound. Half a century on, the 

Strawbs still draw raves. 

It’s a busy week of music in 

the city. There’s another Jazz for the People 

at Wolf Performance Hall on Wednesday, 

October 17, this time featuring The Four 

Trombones. We’re guessing it’s not the 1950s 

DIGGIN’ 

DUNDAS 

SHARE THE LOVE & WIN 

#DigginDundas



combo featuring Kai Winding, but it should 

still be fun if it really does feature four bones. 

Then it’s Australian roots music guitar prodigy 

Daniel Champagne at the London Music Club 

on Thursday, October 18. “He coaxes sounds 

and melodies out of his instrument that 

literally drop jaws,” says The Calgary Herald. 

ing new students into professional music studio 

mmunity 

lifelong gift of music 

Jill Barber 

s 

, encouraging, understanding 

It gets even better on the weekend at 

Aeolian Hall. First, it’s two dates with jazz 

sweetheart Jill Barber — she of the smoky 

voice and retro arrangements — first on 

Friday, October 19, then again Saturday, 

October 20. Barber’s latest album, Metaphora, 

dropped in June. Legendary Canadian concert 

Develop skills & a love for music 

PIANO LESSONS 

pianist André Laplante is in the next night, 

Sunday, October 21. Laplante has played all 

over Canada and around the world with great 

orchestras, and records prolifically. A rare 

opportunity to see a master play. 

The next Parsons & Poole Legacy Concert 

goes Friday, October 27, 11 a.m. at the Paul 

Davenport Theatre in Talbot College. It 

features award-winning young Canadian 

concert pianist Charles Richard-Hamelin 

— who was a student of Laplante’s, and also 

records on the Quebec-based Analekta label 

where Laplante has long been a mainstay. 

Remember Centennial Hall? It still gets 

the occasional name act, sometimes great big 

ones. On Friday, November 2, former Great 

Big Sea front man Alan Doyle and his band, 

along with special guest Whitney Rose, are 

in to play some Newfoundland Celtic rock. 

They’re also at the Imperial Theatre in Sarnia 

the next night, part of the summer leg of 

Doyle’s #ComeOutWithMe tour. Should be a 

rollicking good time. 

The Jeffery Concerts has Quartetto di 

Cremona at Wolf Performance Hall on Friday, 

November 9. Founded in Cremona, Italy, the 

group plays historic instruments, including 

Stradivari, performs all over the world, 

records on the Audite label and routinely 

draws rave reviews. The all-Italian program 

includes works by Boccherini, Verdi, Puccini 

and Respighi. jefferyconcerts.com 

Liona Boyd 

Experienced Piano/Theory Teacher 

now accepting new students 

Individual Instruction for All Ages 

Compassionate, Caring, Encouraging 

Home-based Professional Music Studio 

Royal Conservatory Exam Preparation 

University Piano Proficiency Preparation 

Beth Hickey, BA (MUS) 

North London 

bhickey57@hotmail.com 519-432-4022 

Best for last? Liona Boyd is at Aeolian Hall 

on Tuesday, November 13. Boyd, a legendary 

cross-over figure in the classical world, has 

played everywhere and everything since her 

debut in 1975. She used to open for Gordon 

Lightfoot, and has performed with Chet 

Atkins, Eric Clapton and Yo Yo Ma, to name a 

few. Don’t miss an intimate evening with the 

first lady of guitar. 

GERRY BLACKWELL is a London-based freelance 

writer.



Recipes 



By Alieska Robles 

Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN 

If you’re not paying attention, London 

might seem a little ... beige (as I once 

heard it described by comedian Billy 

Connolly). Fortunately, Alieska Robles 

has experience finding the heart of a place. 

She was raised in Caracas, Venezuela and 

spent several years in Buenos Aires, Argentina 

before relocating to London. Once here, 

she went looking for the vibrant network of 

people that make up the local food movement 

in London. The result of this labour of love 

of nearly two years is Forest City Cookbook 

(Alieska Robles; self-published; 2018). 

The best cookbooks, to me, are stories of 

people and their traditions, our memories of the 

past and our connections to our communities. 

Forest City Cookbook focuses on local producers, 

artisans and chefs in the London region. It’s 

organized not by courses but by producers, 

and offers recipes from local chefs using the 

highlighted ingredients. I love this approach as it 

allows you to choose a recipe based on what you 

have on hand. It’s easy to forget but traditionally 

cooking is ingredient driven. If you have 

peaches, you make something with peaches. 

There’s a guide to seasonal produce in the back 

of the book to help you plan for that. 

The author’s well-travelled 

parents exposed her to many 

different cultures, leaving 

her with a love of antiques, 

collectibles and cookbooks. 

This is reflected in her 

wonderful photography, which 

is unusually dark (but very 

effective) for a cookbook. The 

refreshing approach gives you 

the feeling of an old-fashioned, 

slower way of life while 

highlighting modern food. 

Forest City Cookbook has 

more than a few surprises. I 

had no idea 

that we had 

local producers 

of wild 

boar but 

Perth Pork 

Products 

offers it 

among 

its selection 

of 

heritage 

breed 

meats. 

David 

Bistro’s chef 

Elvis Drennan’s recipe for 

Honey & Rosemary Glazed Wild Boar combines 

this delicious meat with a tart cherry 

compote. A potato rosti with sauerkraut adds 

a beautiful touch of crispy and tangy. Served 

with fresh green beans, it’s the kind of dish 

that, without being too technically difficult, 

makes you look like a genius in the kitchen. 

I love fruit crisps because they are easy 

to prepare and adjust to whatever fruit you 

have on hand. Juliana Guy Wesseling won the 

Eatdrink/Forest City Cookbook 

original recipe contest using 

all local ingredients. Her 

Apple Crisp recipe takes 

this humble dessert to new 

heights. Generous portions 

of fruit and crumble topping 

are pushed over the top with 

a candied bacon caramel 

sauce and Gunn’s Hill 5 

Brothers Reserve Cheese. 

This dish ticks all the yummy 

boxes, and then some. 

Author/photographer Alieska Robles



Forest City Cookbook is focused on 

community. There’s a special mention of Urban 

Roots, a non-profit dedicated to utilizing 

underused city space to grow fresh food. Its 

goal is to reduce food insecurity by facilitating 

the placement of urban farm plots throughout 

London. Eatdrink’s Food Editor Bryan Lavery 

contributed the cookbook’s foreword and a 

summary of local culinary history. His recipe 

for Roasted Vegetable Terrine is an ideal way 

to bring a variety of these vegetables together 

while keeping their flavours and textures 

intact. Infinitely variable, it can be served as an 

appetizer or main course and tastes as amazing 

as it looks. 

Alieska Robles’s Forest City Cookbook 

connects the dots between all the players in 

the local farm-to-table community. It’s the 

story of our city and some of the people who 

work so hard to make it a special place to be: 

producers, educators, suppliers, chefs and 

artists. Robles looks at London with fresh 

eyes and shows us what we may have missed 

in our complacency. Sometimes it takes a new 

perspective to make you appreciate how good 

we have it. 

TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer 

in London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com 

Recipes excerpted from Forest City Cookbook 

reproduced by arrangement with the Publisher. 

All rights reserved. 

Apple Crisp 

with Candied Bacon, Bacon Caramel Sauce & Aged Cheese 

by JULIANNA GUY WESSELING 

Prep: 35 Minutes • Cook: 1 Hour 30 Minutes 

Serves 8 

Apples • Dessert • Easy 

Apple crumble and apple pie 

with cheddar have always 

been top contenders on my 

father’s favourite desserts 

list. He would even ask for 

them instead of birthday cake! 

This recipe quickly became 

my family’s “go-to” dessert 

but needed a little “extra 

something” to be a contestwinning 

recipe for submitting 

to the Eatdrink magazine 

recipe contest. Combining 

sweet and peppery bacon with 

creamy, salty caramel, and 

sharp aged cheese is a twist 

on a classic that is sure to 

impress! 

CRUMB TOPPING 

¾ cup flour 

1 cup quick oats 

¼ cup packed brown sugar 

2 Tbsp sugar 

½ tsp salt 

⅔ cup butter, frozen, grated 

love 

In a large bowl, mix flour, oats, 

brown sugar, white sugar and salt.


Using your hands or a pastry blender, cut the butter into 

the flour (the butter should hold its shape when pressed). 

Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until the apple 

filling is ready. 

FILLING (makes 6 cups) 

⅓ cup sugar 

1 Tbsp cornstarch 

¼ tsp ground nutmeg 

2 tsp ground cinnamon 

8 medium Royal Gala apples, peeled, medium 

diced 

1 Tbsp apple cider vinegar 

love 

In a large bowl, combine sugar and cornstarch. Add 

nutmeg, cinnamon and apples. Drizzle with vinegar and 

toss until the apples are evenly coated. 

APPLE CRISP 

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the apple filling into a 9x9 

baking dish. Evenly cover the apples with crumb topping, 

making sure to fill all the little nooks and crannies around 

the sides. Bake for 45–55 minutes or until golden brown 

and bubbling. 

CHEF NOTE: Don’t worry, the mound of apples will cook 

down! 

CANDIED BACON 

500 g double smoked bacon, thinly sliced 

½ cup brown sugar 

freshly cracked black pepper 

love 

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Evenly 

distribute the bacon and generously cover each strip with 

brown sugar. Evenly sprinkle the black pepper and bake 

for 15-20 minutes until glazed and crispy. Rotate halfway 

through. Remove from oven and allow to cool. Try not to 

eat it all! 

CANDIED BACON CARAMEL SAUCE 

1 cup sugar 

2 Tbsp water 

¼ cup candied bacon, crumbled 

¼ cup butter, cubed 

¾ cup 35% cream 

love 

In a medium pot, bring sugar and water to a boil over 

medium heat. Reduce the heat and simmer for 6-8 minutes 

without stirring, occasionally swirling the pot until the 

caramel reaches a medium amber colour. Add the candied 

bacon to the caramel and remove from heat. Add butter 

and cream and whisk until well combined. Transfer to a 

glass jar and allow to cool until ready to use. 

FINISH 

200 g Gunn’s Hill Five Brothers Reserve Cheese 

In a deep plate, scoop a portion of the apple crisp, drizzle 

with caramel sauce, add a few pieces of Five Brother’s 

Cheese and top with a strip of candied bacon. Enjoy! 

Farm to table award winning 

hand crafted alpine style cheese 

Tuesday to Friday 9am–5pm 

Saturday 9am–4pm 

Stonetown Artisan Cheese 

5021 Perth Line 8 

St. Marys ON 

Gift Baskets & 

Gift Boxes 

Cheese Trays 

Fondue & Raclette 

519-229-6856 

info@stonetowncheese.com 

www.stonetowncheese.com 

100% Local — from Our Farmers to Your Table 

Hormone & Drug-Free 

Ontario Beef, Pork, Bison, Lamb & Chicken 

THE VILLAGE 

MEAT SHOP 

LOCAL - NATURAL - QUALITY 

WE ARE YOUR LONDON OUTLET FOR 

• Metzger Meat Products • Lena’s Lamb 

• Blanbrook Bison Farm • Little Sisters Chicken 

• Glengyle Farm Organics 

The Market at Western Fair District: Saturdays, 8am–3pm 

226-376-6328 • www.thevillagemeatshop.ca



a 

movement 

for 

restaurants 

who believe 

local food 

matters. 

® 

A Feast On® Certification means 

you’re fighting the good food fight. 

You’re supporting our farmers 

and putting local food first. 

To get certified, visit: 

ONTARIOCULINARY.COM 

@ONTARIOCULINARY #FEASTON


Honey & Rosemary Glazed Wild Boar 

with Cherry Compote, Green Beans & Sauerkraut Roti 

by ELVIS DRENNAN 

Prep: 20 Minutes • Cook: 40 Minutes 

Serves 2 

Pork & Wild Boar • Main • Easy 

Boar is an underused meat, not commonly seen 

in many restaurants. This recipe comes from 

an eagerness to experiment with it, challenging 

myself to create an unconventional meal 

with an unusual and particularly interesting 

combination of flavours. 

HONEY & ROSEMARY GLAZE 

4 Tbsp honey 

2 sprigs of rosemary, stems removed, minced 

In a small pot, slightly warm the honey. Remove from heat 

and add rosemary. Set aside until ready to use. 

CHERRY COMPOTE 

1 Tbsp olive oil 

⅛ Tbsp onion, minced 

⅛ Tbsp garlic, minced 

2 Tbsp sugar 

12 local cherries, pitted, halved 

½ cup red wine 

2 Tbsp red wine vinegar 

salt and pepper to taste 

In a small pan, heat the olive oil and sauté 

onions and garlic until soft. Add remaining 

ingredients and bring to a simmer, allow the 

liquid to reduce until thickened. Set aside until 

ready to use. 

SAUERKRAUT ROTI 

1 large Yukon gold potato 

¼ cup sauerkraut, drained 

¼ cup flour 

1 large egg 


salt to taste 

Place the potato in a large pot and cover with 

water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and 

simmer for 5 minutes. Remove the pot from 

the heat and leave the potato in the water for 

5-10 additional minutes. Strain and rinse the 

potato in cold water. Shred with the skin on. 

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Using a stand 

mixer, combine shredded potato, sauerkraut, 

flour and egg. Mix well until a moist dough 

forms and shape into 2 patties. Adjust 

consistency with water or flour if needed. 

In a large ovenproof pan, heat the olive 

oil over high heat. Sear one side of the potato 

patties until golden brown. Season with salt, 

turn over and place in the oven for 10 minutes 

or until thoroughly cooked. 


GREEN BEANS 

1 cup green beans 

Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Blanch the green 

beans for 2 minutes until crisp and bright green. Strain 

and shock in an ice water bath. Lightly sauté in the same 

pan used for the sauerkraut roti. 

BOAR TENDERLOIN 


2 large wild boar tenderloins 

salt and pepper 

In a separate ovenproof pan, heat the olive oil over high 

heat. Add boar tenderloins and sear until golden brown, 

turn over and place in the oven for 8-12 minutes or until 

desired doneness. 

CHEF NOTES: Ideally, the boar should still have some 

pink colour for best results. 

Remove from oven and brush thoroughly with 

rosemary glaze. Transfer to a cutting board and allow to 

rest for 3-5 minutes before slicing. 

Serve with sauerkraut roti and green beans. Top with 

cherry compote.



Books 

The Great Immigrant Road Trip 

Buttermilk Graffiti: A Chef ’s Journey to Discover 

America’s New Melting-Pot Cuisine 

by Edward Lee 

Review by DARIN COOK 

Fusion is not new in the restaurant 

world. Even though Chef Edward 

Lee fears it has become a culinary 

gimmick, he knows the concept 

had profound meaning when it originated 

in a restaurant in Florida under the gaze of 

one of his heroes, Norman Van Aken. Real 

fusion is attuned to the everyday cooking 

of families who set roots in a new country 

and harmonize immigrant traditions with 

local cuisine. These are the types of recipes, 

restaurants, chefs and families that Lee 

searched for from the nationalities sprawled 

across American cities when writing his book 

Buttermilk Graffiti: A Chef ’s Journey to Discover 

America’s New Melting-Pot Cuisine (Thomas 

Allen & Son, 2018). Whenever Lee has 

clam pizza in Connecticut he contemplates 

“the slow and gradual interconnection of 

two cultures, in this case, Italian and New 

England.” He further writes, “When you look 

at the evolution of American cuisine, you 

always find this tension between tradition and 

innovation, a tension that produces the foods 

we crave most. It is in the intersection of the 

home we leave and the home we adopt that we 

find a dish that defines who we really are.” 

Lee himself was raised in Brooklyn with his 

Korean family 

before he 

moved to Kentucky 

to refine 

his own cooking 

style. He 

identifies as 

a Southern 

chef, influenced 

not 

only by all 

other American styles, 

but immigrant ones, as well. Through 

his writing, he implores us to be “fascinated 

by other unlikely couplings that make up the 

narrative of life in America” because he knows 

that people project the food of their culture 

onto the fabric of their whole identity. 

Immigrants he met along the way 

revealed how they missed the ways of 

eating in their homeland. A Moroccan 

immigrant in Connecticut reminisces about 

Marrakesh by telling Lee: “Every day, you 

gather with families and friends for meals. 

You stroll through the markets and smell 

spices … You drink mint tea in cafes and 

talk all day till the sun goes down. Meals 

are celebrations, enjoyed in large groups.” 

Keeping food traditions alive in 

her transplanted home helps as 

she teaches Lee to prepare smen, 

a traditional Moroccan butter. He 

had been searching for someone 

to show him how to make it all his 

life. Lee himself pontificates about 

being a resident of America: “Maybe 

part of being American is releasing 

the anchor that we have to our 

Author Edward Lee


heritage so we can drift directionless into 

the unknown waters of identity.” 

All parts of his cross-country journey are 

entertaining and enlightening with French 

beignets in New Orleans, Cambodian cuisine 

in Massachusetts, Cuban food in Florida 

(where he learned to taste food in new ways 

by learning the nuances of smoking cigars), 

German schnitzel in Wisconsin, Lebanese 

kibbeh in Mississippi, and Swedish pancakes 

in Seattle. The oddest segment was Lee 

deciding to fast during Ramadan in a Muslim 

community in Michigan. It was paradoxical 

not only because he is a chef who builds his life 

around food, but he was also on a food-writing 

odyssey. All he could think was: “Conventional 

wisdom says that food writing should steer 

clear of politics and religion, but how do I do 

this in a place that is defined by its religion and 

cultural isolation?” So he fasted as the Muslims 

did and it provided new insight to food. 

Daytime fasting heightened the taste of food 

when the fast was broken at sundown each 

night. He writes, “After a day’s fast, the flavors 

and fats cling to your bones like medicine and 

heal you from the inside out.” 


Throughout the book, Lee engages in 

another type of experimentation by making 

food fusion personal. He suggests taking a 

recipe that you like, that may already be a 

food imported from another culture, and 

fusing it with your own preferences, even 

changing one ingredient to make it your 

own personal recipe. This is how the recipes 

at the end of each chapter were born, as Lee 

riffs on unique global delicacies, like Coffee- 

Glazed Bacon with Pickled Watermelon and 

Fried Peanuts. He writes: “I never understood 

why the Asian identity and the American 

identity had to be compartmentalized, the 

way my Salisbury steak and apple pie were 

separated in my Swanson’s dinner. I wanted 

them all in one bite.” All the bites he took 

across America while writing Buttermilk 

Graffiti prove that each bite of food can lead to 

cultural outpourings about families, recipes, 

traditions, and memories. 

DARIN COOK is a regular Eatdrink contributor who 

lives and works in Chatham-Kent. 

WHERE TASTE REIGNS SUPREME 

FINE INDIAN CUISINE 

Stratford 

10 George St. W. 

519-271-3271 

Kitchener 

725 Belmont Ave. W. 

519-208-2811 

rajaindiancuisine.ca



The Lighter Side 

Pescatarian Tales 

By REBECCA ST. PIERRE 

Meat was a constant part of my diet 

when I was growing up in rural 

Southwestern Ontario. Pot roast, 

chicken wings and my mother’s 

signature headcheese took turns stealing 

prominent places of distinction on my dinner 

plate. At Christmas a large platter of honeyglazed 

ham was proudly displayed in the 

middle of the dining table, forcing all other 

lesser dishes of food to fight for the remaining 

space, and at Thanksgiving a beautifully 

browned turkey encouraged sibling rivalry 

over the wishbone. I didn’t question whether I 

should or shouldn’t eat meat. 

Time passed and I moved 

away from home, and after 

careful deliberation decided 

to stop eating meat — at least 

land animals. I continue to eat 

aquatic creatures like fish and 

seafood. For the past 20 years I 

thought I was a vegetarian because I 

was raised on the belief that fish flesh 

was not meat. Unknowingly I have been lying 

to family, friends, and myself for nearly two 

decades. The Vegetarian Society defines a 

vegetarian as someone who does not eat the 

flesh of any animal, including the critters 

residing in our lakes, streams and coastal 

oceans. For the sake of simplicity, I often 

continue to refer to myself as a vegetarian. 

“I’m a pescatarian” elicits quizzical looks, head 

tilting and raised eyebrows. 

Over the years I’ve mastered the skill of 

discreetly removing pepperoni from slices 

of pizza at social events and avoiding bacon 

bits in Caesar salads. I suspect many people 

assume I’m a picky eater with a small appetite. 

With only two or three meatless dishes at 

most group gatherings, my plate often looks 

desolate. A hefty helping of large salad greens 

usually solves the problem. If a host should 

discover I’m a pescatarian, he or she is always 

accommodating and generous. 

Sometimes my choice of diet defies a way 

of life that someone has identified with 

since childhood. My husband eats meat and 

probably always will. Chicken legs, pork 

sausage and beef burgers are a regularly 

included in his diet. We visited his friends 

in Alberta shortly after we started dating, 

where Chinook winds, frigid temperatures 

and meaty meals are as common as breathing, 

walking and sleeping. I wonder to this 

day if his friends initially considered an 

intervention when they heard his girlfriend 

did not eat beef. But the seafood chowder 

they prepared for lunch was absolutely divine. 

A pescatarian diet can be a conversation 

starter, stimulating interesting discussions. 

New acquaintances have asked, “Do you miss 

eating chicken?” and “If you don’t 

eat red meat, what do you eat?” 

— queries similar to those I 

asked myself in the first couple of 

years of saying goodbye to most types 

of meat dishes. Soon after answering 

their questions, we are sharing stories of what 

influences our food choices, which usually 

launches a delectable chat on a buffet of topics. 

Having an atypical diet can also cause 

confusion, as perfectly portrayed in one of 

my favourite scenes from the movie My Big 

Fat Greek Wedding. When the bride’s aunt, 

played by Andrea Martin, discovers the groom 

is a vegetarian, she exclaims to a room filled 

with guests, “What do you mean he don’t eat 

no meat!” All conversation suddenly ceases. 

A glass crashes to the floor. After a pregnant 

pause, she calmly says, “Oh, that’s okay, that’s 

okay, I make lamb, come.” 

A baked, meaty portobello mushroom is 

beginning to look as appetizing as a seared 

fillet of rainbow trout. Perhaps I will be a 

vegetarian by the end of the year, but until 

then, please pass the fish. 

REBECCA ST. PIERRE is a London-based freelance 

writer and photographer. She has been writing for 

publications, non-profits and small businesses since 2008. 

For more of her work, visit www.WordFlightAndLight.com.


barrel 

trail 

The Home of Canadian Whisky 

& 11 Craft Breweries 


visitwindsoressex.com/barreltrail 

coffee 

culture 

Locally Roasted & 

Full of Perks 

visitwindsoressex.com/coffee 

epic 

wineries 

18 Wineries along the 

Lake Erie North SHore 

visitwindsoressex.com/wine 

w.e. heart 

local 

There’s No Better Taste 

Than Local 

weheartlocal.ca 

where can w.e. take you? 

#DISCOVERYQG | visitwindsoressex.com



MARKET HOURS: 

MON — SAT 

SUN 

WE HAVE FREE UNDERGROUND PARKING: 

2 HOURS FREE SAT & SUN • 1/2 HOUR FREE MON — FRI 

WITH VALIDATION • NO PURCHASE REQUIRED • DURING MARKET HOURS 

130 KING STREET, LONDON | coventmarket.com w b g

Eatdrink #73 September/October 2018

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

Delete template?

Save as template?