Eatdrink #73 September/October 2018

10 | September/October 2018
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Clockwise from top left: Peach Bellini
Sangria;
Sticky Honey & Sriracha Crispy Chicken,
waffle Cone , zesty slaw;
Tomato & White Bean Vegetable Ragout,
zucchini, cauliflower & corn fritters,
micro greens (vegan and gluten-free);
Tapas — choices might include these
selections: Honey Pitted Date with
blue cheese, pecan, prosciutto,
cipolline onion & fig jam; Crostini with
braised beef rib, sweet & sour cherry
jam & cambozola cheese; Sweet Mini
Heirloom Tomato with bocconcini
cheese, fresh basil & balsamic glaze
(gluten-free option); Blue Crab Fritter
with arborio rice, remoulade & lemon;
Iced Crème Brûlée Cake
with fresh basil leaves and a splash of balsamic
glaze; and blue crab fritters with Arborio
rice, remoulade and lemon. We followed that
with sticky honey and sriracha crispy chicken
served with slaw in a waffle cone. At dinner
the menu has such requisites as Breaded Herb
of Chicken with brie and caramelized apples,
and Lamb Shanks with Dijon-mint red pepper
glaze. Few foods have left the global impact
that ramen has on the food scene; a savoury
broth with braised pork shoulder, noodles,
soft poached egg, scallions, vegetables and
cilantro pay homage to the obsession. Large,
broad pappardelle noodles are served simply
with a rustic, chunky tomato sauce with red
peppers, carrots, broccoli, parmesan and
Asiago cheese without too much dressing
up. Tomato and local white bean vegetable
ragout is served with zucchini, cauliflower,
micro greens and crisp fritters with luscious
corn interiors. For dessert there is carrot
cake, apple bread pudding, white chocolate
and lemon cheesecake and pecan pie. There
is a good flourless chocolate cake and an
impressive iced crème brûlée cake that shouts
quality ingredients.
Eddington literally fell in love with the
sound of the restaurant business. As a
young teen he visited a friend who worked
as a dishwasher at a local fine dining
establishment and waited for him to finish his
shift. “Like a symphony of sounds the dining
room sang with a rumble of laughter, the
clinking of glasses and ambiance of live music.
The kitchen was alive with a chef barking
orders, the screaming sizzle of hot pans and
the adrenalin rush of a full house. That was
the moment everything changed. The next
morning I dug out my Sunday best and shined
my shoes and walked in with my resume. After
much consideration, the owners hired me as
host/busboy. I had my foot in the door and
the rest is history,” he recounted.
Locally-sourced food has been a driving