test 5

chainmagazine

ISSUE 01

1st Edition

@CHAINTHEMAG

THE FIRST ISSUE

INSANE CULT SICCKM8 YUZHE STUDIO ALVSSA


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This is Chain

In Conversation with Junior Choi

087MPH

Jonny Alonzo

Featured Fit Picture

Blue Hamel

Ken Trijo

Fashion & Music

Yuzhe Studio

Escaping Normality

Sicckm8

Fashion Talks with @alvssa_

Liverpool & Fashion

Daniel’s Insanity

CHAINCONTENTS


INSANE CULT

SHOT BY CEDAR STONE


CHAIN

Firstly, to the team that made this happen

Ollie Bielby-Smith

Dylan O’Connor

Davidson Mede

Ken Trijo

Additional thanks to

Daniel Greenstour

Insane Cult

Cedar Stone

Danait Desta

Okechukwu Atuanya

Junior Choi

Melody Funck

Alyssa Lee

Alisha Francis

Blue Hamel

Josh Sobel

Joe Rooney

Kims Mihailovs

Alex Lee

Yuzhe Sun

Adam Hackerhart

Terence Mulligan

Menyelek Rose

Squeaky

Thank you to everybody who bought a

physical copy!

And finally, thank you to @slydeofficial

For bringing together a group of young

creatives that made this happen. Without

you, none of this would have been possible.

Enjoy the magazine.

CHAIN


Photograph: Yuzhe Studios

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An underground un

designers;

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trends and anti-tren

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ECHUKWU ATUANYA (@PVPIAS_V)

WELCOME

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for us though.

age hype beast info go-to.

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and are bursting onto the scene with a lot to say

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crowd and bounce to your own tune, with a CHAIN magazine

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7


IN CONVERSATION

WITH JUNIOR CHOI

Interview: DYLAN O’CONNOR


Choi - Leggo.

Dylan O’Connor - You ready?

Yeah.

DO: Okay cool. I always start the interview like this. For

the people that may not know you, who are you and

what do you do?

Junior Choi, Born and raised London, UK.

ModelRapperEntrepreneur.

DO: Okay, so how did you get into the world of fashion,

who introduced you to this culture?

Probably my city, it was always interesting experiencing

different atmospheres and cultures around the city it

allowed me to mix and match how I’d dress for the day

depending on where I’m headed.

DO: So what made you decide you wanted to be a model?

Choi - I was approached a few times by random people/a

few friends asking if I was or telling me that I should get

into it, I got scouted one day at work a couple years ago

and now we here.

DO: Were you sceptical at first when you were scouted

or did you feel comfortable?

Choi - I done my research and felt comfortable.

DO: Who inspires you to do what you do whether it’s

rapping, modelling etc.?

I don’t really have any inspirations. I just like the idea

of doing whatever I wanna do and appreciate every box

that’s ticked.

DO: You said that growing up in London city introduced

you to the world of fashion, what did you wear when

you were younger or was dressing something you didn’t

care about back then?

I was slapped in Gap jumpers and dungarees as a kid

hahaha. Been cosy ever since.

DO: So now that we know you were interested in clothes

from a young age, when did you know modelling wasn’t

just a hobby and you could actually have a career in this

industry?

Last year I realised it’s more than just shoots and runways.

It’s the experiences in different countries with people

I’ve just met, communication skills and opportunities

everywhere I turn. That’s when it turned into something

I could see myself doing full time.

DO: So this isn’t just to “pass the time” or “have fun for

a while”, you can actually see yourself sticking to this?

It’s what I’m fucking with for the moment. As soon as

I’m bored of it we’re moving onto the next.

DO: How did you feel modelling for Dsquared? That’s

major.

Pretty cool, it’s a brand a lot of my guys wear back at

home so it was a good feeling walking for them. My

look was crazy too. [The twins know how to put on a

good show.]

DO: So what’s been the highlight in your career then?

Walking for Givenchy and shooting Ports campaign in

Morocco. Both experiences were completely different

but crazy to take in.

DO: What was going through your head during when

you were walking for Givenchy?

Damn, this is an actual show hahaha.

DO: Okay. Rapid fire.

Hit me.

DO: Favourite artist?

J Hus/Rocky.

DO: Favourite designer and why?

Represent, I’ve been fucking with them for 5 years plus,

they’re brothers to me now and everything they drop

rings cosy in my ears.

DO: Controversial...feelings about hypebeasts?

They’re doing them. It’s cool how it’s kind of a culture

now but if they’re getting their money then props to

them.

DO: Okay, that’s the rapid-fire out the way.

So this question is actually from someone who works

at Slyde. They want to know how you feel about

androgynous fashion since you’ve been seen wearing

Rick Owens?

Statements, I love the way Rick can express his mind in

his clothing and that to me is a statement. We’ve seen

many different types of races, cultures and body types

thanks to people like Kanye West with his latest YEEZY

SEASON campaign but of course, the whole industry

isn’t like that.

CHAIN

9


DO: Have you ever faced any racial issues in the modelling industry or have you felt the need to conform to get a

job?

The only racial issue I had with shows was the amount of POC [people of colour] used in shows It was way too

small but it’s increasing and I guess that’s a start. Better to focus on the progression. I never had to conform.

DO: Great to hear, where do you see yourself in the next few years? What do you want to achieve?

Chilling even more than I am already, mum comfortable, my little brother doing what he loves to do and myself

sitting chilling with multiple incomes.

DO: So you just said you have a little brother, what would you say to people his age or double your age who are

going to read this and want to get involved in the culture?

Choi - Stop thinking about doing it and start doing it.

DO: Well, we’ll leave it there but thanks for having a chat with us and the best of luck with all your endeavours.

Thanks, Choi.

Choi - Thank you!

Junior Choi for Valentino


Photograph - Melody Funck


FFA STUDIO

IN THIS PHOTO FFA STUDIO GOOD/EVIL T-SHIRT


See more of 087mph’s

work on his Instagram

@087mph


JONNY

ALONZO

Interview: DAVIDSON MEDE

Jonny was the winner of our competition to be featured in the magazine. Look out on our Instagram for more

competitions for future magazines!

Davidson: How do would you say you dress, and what

do you think are the most popular trends right now?

Jonny Alonzo: The most popular trends right now are

definitely from like mid 90’s to early 2000’s. Like the

track pants and the bondage bombers and everything

like that, that’s all 90’s. But I definitely think I dress like

mid 90’s.

Davidson: If there was one thing you could change about

fashion right now in terms of what people are wearing,

what would you change?

JA: Vans Old Skools bro. Ahaha. Seriously, black

and white vans old skools. Like it sucks because It’s such

a classic shoe and like how could it go but basically

people just throw off their whole fit by wearing that

shoe but besides that probably... honestly I’m not too

displeased at the moment about where we are in fashion.

Honestly bro I think the camo trend needs to die. Yeah

probably that. Just camo.

DM: If I gave you 10,000 dollars to buy from one designer,

what brand are you buying from and why?

JA: My f***ing brand...Prada. Prada till I die dude. But

realistically if I wasn’t representing the company, um,


who have I been obsessed with these days? Honestly, I

f***ing love Issey Miyake or Martin Rose but yeah if I

had 10,000 dollars I’d probably buy 10 sweatshirts from

Haider Ackermann.

DM: And the reason is...?

JA: I don’t know. They just have a f***ing beautiful cut

and I don’t know if you’ve ever felt one but the silk blend

that they use in that s**t is just so soft that you can wear

any season. So, yeah I’d probably buy a bunch of s**t

from like Haider because I love the tones that they’re

still using. They create some of the most beautiful

colours I’ve ever seen.

DM: What brand do you have the most of in your closet

and why?

JA: The brand you’ll mostly find in my closet is Prada

because I work for them and I love the s**t that they

make. With me and my co-workers, it’s literally just like

who f***ing picks up the cosiest shit whenever we get

shipments in hahaha. You know every week like we all

stand together when we open boxes and like literally it’s

like first come, first serve and like my co-workers have

found some dope s**t. I’ve found some dope s**t. I’ve

really gotten some steals and stuff because a crazy a**

item will come discounted and we’re just shook but yeah. Um, definitely Prada is what you’ll find the most in my

closet.

DM: So, you said you work at Prada. How did you end up getting that job and how did that end up influencing your

fashion?

JA: Um, honestly I went into the store at the right time. I took in an application and they never got back to me. A

couple of months later and I walked in and the manager was stood at the front desk, who was never at the front

desk. I introduced myself and I don’t know what it was, he saw something in me and he set us up for coffee the

next day and we did an interview. After that, he set me up for four more interviews. I had five interviews in total

technically, it took me about 2 months to get hired.

DM: Jheeze. It was probably worth it when you did get hired though.

JA: I mean, they heard that someone from Gucci was trying to recruit me. As a company, I love just everything that

Prada reflects upon dude. The lockup procedures felt truly like their best values in my opinion.

DM: Has working there changed your sense of fashion?

JA: So, definitely it’s made me a little more conservative with my fashion because I love high-end streetwear, like

when people mix streetwear/skatewear with high fashion. I think it’s the best of both worlds, I feel like everything

I buy from the store, no matter how classic it looks, I can always add like something from the streetwear end. It’s

definitely made me more conservative, though.

CHAIN

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DM: What aspirations do you have

in fashion? Where do you want to go

with it?

JA: So, for the time being, I wanna

keep working at Prada as a company.

As it goes personally, I wanna have

my own boutique, my own business.

A lifestyle store, actually.

DM: What would be available at

your boutique that would differ to

somewhere else?

JA: I would love to combine a threestory

building. The first floor would

be a bar/restaurant, the second floor

a lifestyle store where you could

shop around and s**t. The third

floor would be like home s**t, like

interior decorations. I just think

that the world needs something

like that, your own f***ing mall in

one little building. I wanna have it

so that everyone can shop there, no

matter what the budget.

DM: What is different about your

kind of fashion and your outlook on

it that might give you an advantage

over others that are trying to come

up into the same thing as you?

JA: (laughs) I don’t judge people. I

look at everybody the same and I

think companies focus on certain

groups. I hate how in fashion some

people can look down on others.

DM: I look down on hypebeasts,

so… anyways, another question,

pretty basic. How did you get into

fashion?

JA: Truly, I was an only child and I

grew up in a really small town. I

18

wore colours and s**t, and in

middle school, I wore like a full

purple outfit. I liked standing out.

Everybody looked the same and

wore the same s**t. Everyone was

getting hyped about Nike socks

and shit whilst I was getting hyped

about the next Supreme drop (when

Supreme was cool)! I dunno, it was

like my own little world. I knew

nobody else in my town dressed the

same, and now I’m meeting other

people in my own little world, like

you. Instagram helps a lot.

DM: Yeah dude. Where I’m from I’m

the only f***ing dude doing what I’m

doing. In my town, I mean, not New

York as a whole obviously.

JA: That’s what I mean, that’s why

I love living out here. I’m meeting

people with the same interests as

me.

DM: Alright, just one more question,

do you see yourself doing something

extravagant as a result of the

magazine? In terms of career, in any

type of way?

JA: Yeah, I definitely think I could

use this to my advantage because

like whenever I look at the magazine

I’m honestly impressed. I know it’s

in the right hands and will go the

right way. I mean, if it does that’d

really f***ing cool to be in the first

ever issue.

DM: For sure. Okay that’s all. It’s

been a pleasure speaking to you!

JA: Nice speaking to you too. Thank

you, bro. Peace.


IN

FASHION,

I HATE

HOW

PEOPLE

CAN

LOOK

DOWN

ON

OTHERS.


Best Outfit -

Competition Winner

HA MY NGUYEN

Follow her on Instagram @hamywho


MENYELEK ROSE

MOM’S SWEATER COLLECTION


BRINGING YOUR HOME

TO FASHION


BLUE HAMEL

Interview: DAVIDSON MEDE

Photograph: JOSH SOBEL


DAVIDSON MEDE: Where did your sense of style come

from?

BLUE HAMEL: My sense of style has definitely changed

and evolved over the years but it all started with my

parents. My parents both work in the fashion and hair

industry so at a young age I was always exposed to

going fashion shows, events and editorial shoots. So I

was always been around fashion which has definitely

impacted my style for sure. Having this background

has allowed me to get aware of fashion allowing me to

develop my sense of style.

DM: How did you get into fashion?

BH: Firstly, it was from my parents as I mentioned above

but after getting introduced to fashion I started to more

heavily involve myself with buying more and more.

Then being interested in styling and photography, this

made me become more and more into fashion.

DM: What kind of art besides fashion resonates with

you the most?

BH: Mostly Film, Photography, Digital Art and Design.

Firstly I love film because this is where I think fashion

really is heavily influenced by. Also, films captivate the

audience and set an environment/world where you feel

the link between the story being

24

told and something in your life. Digital forms are

something that I love too, its visual effect and the link

between video techniques with fashion is something

I’m really trying to push right now. As well as this,

with being a photographer, I find that fashion and

photography go hand-in-hand. Especially with some

of my favourite designers such as Raf Simons.

DM: What time period would you say your fashion

comes from the most?

BH: To me, I think fashion is a never-ending cycle.

What I mean by this is that things come and go in

fashion but the styles are always recycling from the

past. The only thing changing is the techniques and

how technology is impacting fashion.

But personally, my style isn’t just linked to a specific

time period but I definitely have elements in my style

that resonate with time periods. Time periods that I

love and have always been part of are the 50s, 60s and

90s/ early 2000.

DM: What kind of work do you do?

BH: Firstly, I work as a Junior Art Director here in New

York working for a creative agency called Annex 88.

I moved out here from New Zealand about 3 Months

ago to work for Annex. At Annex88, I work with clients

such as Adidas Originals and Y3. This has


This has definitely been a life-changing experience

so far. Being in art direction is something that really

ignites the creative edge, as it is the unifying of the

overall vision that truly creates something special.

Also, I do creative direction for my personal work as

‘Halfofnothing’. @Halfofnothing is directed towards

fashion/hype streetwear where I create, write, produce,

edit, film, photograph, and style my own content. Here

I have been very fortunate to have been able to work

with some incredible brands and companies from all

over the world. My two main clients are Adidas and

Tesla.

Art Direction and Styling is another element within

my personal work. I work on projects like music videos

and styles shoots/editorials as well.

Lastly, my main project I’ve been working on is a

product that I have that should be releasing later this

year. This is something that I’m really excited to put

to the market and see what people think. More info

coming soon on my Instagram.

DM: Does your work affect the way you dress?

BH: At work, it’s definitely a chilled workspace and we

are allowed to wear what we want but everyone still

definitely flexes a lot for sure. Also definitely working

with clients like Adidas allows you to always be

CHAIN

around the streetwear culture.

DM: If you couldn’t work in the field of fashion what

kind of work would you do?

BH: I actually studied at Business School majoring

in Advertising & Marketing, so before working here

in New York I was working for an Advertising firm

called Ogilvy & Mather back in New Zealand. So there

our clients were more mainstream like every large Ad

firm but I still enjoy working in this environment. But

being able to work for a creative advertising firm now

and working with some of my favourite brands and

companies is the best thing in the world. It makes work

not feel like work anymore. Combining advertising and

fashion together, it’s just perfect, having two things I

love come together.

DM: Be honest, do other people influence the way you

dress?

BH: Not necessarily, but I definitely think people can

take elements and can get inspiration. But for me,

I don’t think you can just follow exactly what other

people wear or then you just become one a copy of that

person. Fashion is all about interpretation and freedom,

having your own sense of style is very important.

Personally, I think peoples style really represents

people’s personalities.

25


DM: Does having a lot of followers on Instagram effect the way you interact with people? Example: Treating your

time more preciously?

BH: No definitely not at all. My Instagram is just something I enjoy doing, but people mean a lot more to me at

the end of the day. Interactions with people are worth way more than social media. I love connecting with everyone

and learning about their lives. It’s insane here in New York, the amount of amazing and insane people you

meet every day just walking around… its insane. I love collaboration as well, so I always love to connect with

more and more people that I could work with. That’s really all I use Instagram for nowadays, to connect and

collaborate.

So if you ever see me or ever want to connect, just hit me up!

DM: What’s a big goal of yours to accomplish?

BH: The biggest goal of mine is, as being Creative Director, I would like to impact every country that’s on my

list to work in. Then with my company, I would to just like have a positive impact on people and also change the

world and the world of advertising. I don’t just want to have an impact on my city, I want to have an impact on

the world. Also, I’ve always had a goal/working on something to start new Social Network because the industry

definitely needs a changeup. Also, Mr Zuckerberg needs a competitor, haha!


ken trijo

a photography showcase


I’m Ken Trijo, a 16-year-old photographer based in Perth, Western

Australia.

I began photography in early 2017 after buying my first camera

out of pure fascination, sparking a long journey. In the beginning,

I didn’t really think much of what I was shooting. I’d just carry

my camera around wherever I went, capturing anything that

caught my attention. It could be the pattern of the frames in the

skylight or the way the golden hour changed the way the sky

looked. That changed when I became interested in fashion. My

interest in photography and fashion slowly merged. I became

drawn and inspired by editorials from magazines like Vogue or

Harper’s Bazaar which I only recently started becoming influenced

by. Instagram also helps me stay inspired since the platform hosts

so many of other photographer’s work such as Petra Collins and

Rosie Matheson. My work and style are still developing and in its

early exploration stages, however, I do hope to find a career with

it someday.

CHAIN


See more of Ken’s work on his Instagram @kentrijo

CHAIN

35


Written by DAVIDSON MEDE

When people talk about fashion in music, they often reference it very sparingly and only for highlight

moments or people. In reality, fashion plays a big part in how you perceive the music artist in

addition to their hairstyle and overall look.

Who remembers when Lil Wayne was wearing tons

of Bape head to toe? It was cool! For that community

to see a superstar wear something that they liked gave

them a familiarity to the celebrity, and people enjoy

that the same goes for today. Not even so much to see

how well they dress but if you see your favourite rapper

in a brand you like wearing, I think it’s fair to say that

you’d enjoy seeing that little insight into their character.

Let’s escape from just the “Wear Gucci and flex” fashion

in music and talk about those who can actually dress

well and even create their own brands; take the likes of

Kanye West, Tyler, the Creator and Pharrell Williams

for instance. This crossover from one art form to

another keeps their stardom at peak levels because now,

not only do the fashion and music

communities look at their art, but they also look at it

as fans.

Imagine this. You are going to a live show and you’re

ready to see your favourite artist. They come out dressed

like a cowboy, in big heavy boots, a giant belt buckle

and a cowboy hat. You would at least take a step back

to at least question the oddity of it, wouldn’t you? They

establish their “look”, and this defines them as an artist

and makes them more recognisable. An example of this

was the late XXXTentacion. He was widely recognised

for his hair; two different colours that were easily related

to him. The way he was recognised for this is the same

as how other musical artists are for their individual

styles.

36 CHAIN


Octavian

What have we been listening

to?

Octavian, Mura Masa - Move Me

PERCS | PERCZ - Denzel Curry

Tyler The Creator, A$AP Rocky - Potato Salad

we came frxm the DIRT - Scarlxrd

Drake - Sandra’s Rose

WHOHASIT - Nessly, Ski Mask

The Slump God

Tennis - In The Morning I’ll Be Better

Old Money - Playboi Carti

Jessie Reyez - Apple Juice

Wasted - Juice WRLD, Lil Uzi Vert

6ix9ine, Nicki Minaj - FEFE

There You Go - Dana Williams

38


Interview DYLAN O’CONNOR

ALL YUZHE

shiny black sports jacket, short sleeve red tartan shirt,black printed tee


ALL YUZHE

Shiny Red Sports Jacket, black printed

tee and twisted jeans with hand painting

YUZHE STUDIOS was created by Alex Lee and Yuzhe Sun. Alex controls the business aspect of the independent

fashion brand while Yuzhe designs the garments that are created.

DYLAN O’CONNOR: What is Yuzhe Studios for the people that don’t know?

ALEX LEE: We are a young independent studio based between London and Shanghai. The studio emerged from

the concept of creating genderless streetwear collection with high quality and we like to incorporate handmade

details, such as hand stitching or hand painting, giving every garment a unique finish.

YUZHE SUN: Also we produce the collection in Shanghai, China - this is important to us because we want to part

of the movement to show that ‘made in China’ can be of high quality.

DO: How did you come up with the name ‘Yuzhe Studios‘?

YS: Yuzhe is my first name. We wanted “studios” in the name as we are a working studio that works with individuals

and brands in a creative manner, but they may not necessarily be in the fashion industry. For example, we have

designed and created embroideries for artists for their exhibitions.

AL: We also love seeing the different ways people pronounce, “Yuzhe”!

CHAIN

41


DO: Who was your biggest fashion inspiration growing up?

AL: Growing up fashion inspiration came from music; music played and still plays an important part in my life.

The music I listen to would range from Arctic Monkeys to The Smiths to Electric Light Orchestra.

DO: Do you think that where you grew up affected your choice of clothing?

AL: I grew up in a small town in the UK. It definitely affects the way I see clothes because growing up in a suburban

area, so far away from fashion in the normal sense, it made me see fashion in a different light to people growing

up in big cities and traditional fashion area.

YS: I grew up in Qingdao and Shanghai, in China. It was the 90s, so it was when China was just opening up to the

world. This unqiue generation of seeing the old China changing into the new China, this has huge influence on

how I see clothes and it’s meaning.

DO: What can we expect to see in the coming year for Yuzhe Studios?

AL: We are planning to find more buyers that would be suitable for our brand.

YS: We are also hoping to work with more artists and influencers to allow more people to know about us.

DO: What is the story and meaning behind the “TEST” Bomber Jackets?

AL: The word ‘TEST’ comes from our unofficial logo - the Surveillance Resolution Focus Charts (you can find this

image at the bottom of our homepage). We like to deconstruct and incorporate this chart as an underlying theme

that connects all our collections.

DO: What do you think Yuzhe Studios brings to the world of fashion?

AL: We hope our studio can bring high quality and handcraft techniques to the streetwear fashion scene.

YS: Also what we mentioned above about improving the image of ‘Made in China’.

We just had a strong

idea of what we wanted

to create and thought

“why not?”

42 CHAIN


DO: Do you think the industry is diluted

with too many brands?

ALL YUZHE

shiny black sports jacket, short sleeve red tartan shirt,

black printed tee, twisted jeans with hand painting

YS: No, I do not think so. As long as the

brand as their unique view and story then

I think it’s ok.

DO: If you could collaborate with one

designer, who would it be and what would

you create together?

AL: Not a designer as such, but Muji is

a brand we would love to work with. I

think combining their minimalism and

functionality with our unique prints

and embroidery patterns should be very

interesting. We would love to create

stationery and furniture with Muji.

DO: What do you hope to achieve with this

brand?

YS: We do not have a grand plan, simply,

we hope to find and connect with people

that like our style and appreciate the ideas

we stand for.

DO: Would you ever design anything other than clothing and accessories?

DO: What made you want to go into the

world of fashion?

YS: It was always my aim to go into the

fashion or art world.AL: I use to study

economics and business, but during

an exchange year I took some fashion

management courses in Hong Kong. I

enjoyed it and decided to study further.

AL: Maybe. We would like to do stationary and furniture, as discussed the collaboration with Muji.

DO: What made you realise fashion wasn’t just a hobby and it could be a job?

YS: Not sure really, I have been studying and working in arts and fashion all my life; it just seems normal that

fashion would be part of working life.

DO: What made you want to start a clothing brand?

YS: We just had a strong idea of what we wanted to create and thought “why not?”

43


DO: Why is it so important that you promote gender fluidity within your brand?

YS: I think this is the way we both dress, so it seems natural the gender fluid should be a key part of our collection.

AL: We also think the future, people will think and act according to their personality, experiences and culture;

rather than by their gender.

DO: Why do you think people see the label ‘made in China’ as a bad thing and why are you trying to change

people’s mindset about the stigma around it?

AL: I think it is partly due to the media’s portrayal and partly because China produces so many products for the

West - so inevitably there will be low-quality products. However, there should be more understanding that China

has actually got a highly skilled workforce, and not just in fashion.

This interview took place back in March.

We reached out again to ask a few more questions and see if any of their ideas for the brand were coming

true. Here’s what they had to say.

DO: Have you got anything new coming up?

AL & YS: We are actually in Paris now for Paris Men’s Fashion Week, we use to go to the Women’s week only, but

we thought we would expand and put more emphasis on the Men’s market as we had very favourable reactions

from men.

DO: What’s been a struggle and what’s been a blessing of not being based in Europe since that’s seen as the

fashion capital of the world?

AL & YS: Well, we are a hybrid between Shanghai and London depending on the time of the year (the design

process takes place in London and the production takes place in Shanghai). But one of the struggles is attending the

fashion shows, being in Shanghai is convenient for Tokyo and Shanghai fashion week, but a hassle when attending

Paris. A blessing and one of the reasons for being partially based in Shanghai is the number of skilled seamstresses,

amount of fabric on offer, being directly being able to find and discuss with the factories for production.

DO: Has it been easy to stick to your roots or have you found the brand conforming into modern day hype? How

have you stayed true to yourself?

AL & YS: We think it has not been easy at all, because the demand of the market is to conform to all the other

brands which we find boring. But we cannot ignore the market and buyer demands too. So we would like to think

we have found a happy medium. An important part of our brand since the beginning is to keep the quality of the

products to a high ready to wear level, and this is one point we will not be changing ever.

DO: What would you say to the young people out there that are going to read this? Young people that have an

interest in fashion?

AL & YS: I would say if you want to get in fashion then you have to be prepared to work very hard and expect a lot

of disappointments, but the rewards and satisfaction at the end are well worth it.

Look out for Yuzhe Studio’s SS19 collection, coming soon

44 CHAIN


ALL YUZHE

laminated tartan coat, long

sleeve red tartan shirt, blue

printed tee, laminated red

tartan mixed shorts


WDID2 WHATS DONE IS DONE.


ESCAPING NORMALITY

WITH DAVIDSONSONNY

Written by DAVIDSON MEDE

The Escaping Normality podcast

is a show where you can explore

fashion and its endless ability to be a

powerful art form. Fashion as an art

form is bigger than just ‘look at how

well he dresses’ or ‘she knows how

to put an outfit together’ but how it

applies itself in different art forms

and even how perceiving different

fashion trends reflect on society.

Let’s give an example, you’re at a

music event for heavy metal and the

lead singer or guitarist is wearing

clothes typically worn by a country

star you know: flannel, cowboy

boots, big cowboy hat and giant belt

buckle. It would be a little jarring to

see that, to say the least, not to say

music needs to have a specific look

but it would be an oddity. Now, in

episode 4 of Escaping Normality I

talk about an article I read entitled

“Are Cowboys the Ultimate Style

Gods?” this article talks about

a certain shift in fashion where

now dressing in wide-cut jeans,

double denim and fringed jackets,

displayed in Raf Simons’ Calvin

Klein collection, is okay now even

though generally in fashion did

not dress in such a way. These two

examples take fashion in different

avenues that generally are not

explored. My show explores fashion

with a cultural influence and it’s

application to those not only in it

but trying to get into it as opposed

to just an art form.

You can find the latest episode of the ‘Escaping Normality’ Podcast on YouTube.

47

CHAIN


Davidson wearing: Coveralls Supreme x Akira - $228, Bag Supreme - $68, T-shirt Iron Man - $20, Shoes Adidas Yung 1 - $130


Davidson wearing: Jumper MaybeTodayNYC - $60, Bag Thrifed, Pants Forever21 - $40, Shoes Jordan 1 - $160


Sicckm8

Interview DYLAN O’CONNOR

Edited OLLIE BIELBY-SMITH

T-shirt Gosha Rubchinskiy £60


F

or the people who may not know you, who are you

and what do you do?

Hey, I am sicckm8, I am a fashion and thrift

YouTuber. I’ve been making videos on streetwear

fashion since 2015.

DYLAN O’CONNOR: What made you want to start

YouTube?

SICCKM8: I always need a project on the go and

I’ve done a few similar projects before, I’ve been in front of a camera for

as long as I can remember so YouTube was a natural progression for me.

DO: What made you want to work with Slyde and CHAIN?

I’ve heard good things about Slyde and it seems like there is a really cool

team behind it and it has a strong community within it.

DO: Do you think that you can separate the music industry for the fashion

industry or do you think they will always overlap?

I think that there has always been some sort of overlap when it comes to

music and fashion but right now it is more prevalent than ever. Streetwear

cultures most recognisable influencers are Rappers like A$AP Rocky,

Tyler the Creator, Kanye etc. the list goes on. I think in general, fashion

often finds its inspiration from current cultures/sub-cultures whatever

you want to call them but current music is definitely the fashion industry’s

favourite muse.

DO: What got you into fashion and how old were you?

S: From a young age, I have always been interested in fashion to some

extent. However, it wasn’t until I was in my Twenties that I fully appreciated

the full scope of Streetwear Culture.

I just finished University and wanted to get some work experience in

something relevant so I managed to get an internship at a Fashion PR

company, by this point I didn’t know much about the culture, I had no

idea what Supreme or Palace was (which was funny cos Blondey used to

come into the showroom and I had no idea who he was, I look back and

think how mad that is) Champion brand was still dormant, Ellesse was

the top brand and Vans were considered alternative. Here I learnt a lot, I

saw a lot of people and my interest in streetwear flourished. It wasn’t until

I went to Crepe City 2015 that I actually took it all in for the first time.

I was already interested in Sneakers but this was something else. Just in

the queues, I saw people dripped in Supreme, Palace, Bape and Basement

Merch. It was all newly familiar by this point but seeing it first hand, the

jawnz, the flex, the whole “if you know you know” exclusivity made me

want to be a part of it even more so I started from there.

DO: How were you introduced to vintage items?

S: To be honest, I didn’t enter a Charity shop til much later, we’re talking

like 2015. My sister came come one day with this sick Puma sweater and

I wanted to know where she got it from. The answer changed everything

“Charity Shop in Hertfordshire, £2.50” imagine, living your entire life

buying £15 Topman T-Shirts and thinking spending

51


£200 on clothes that the second you walk out the store

become inherently un-resellable was optional. From

then I scouted every charity shop I came across and

it also doubled as a way to keep my wardrobe fresh

without breaking the bank.

DO: Did you care about how you dressed when you

were younger or did you just wear what was picked out

for you?

S: I always dressed myself as a child, it was a disaster, I

always tried to dress differently as I had (probably still

have) an affinity to want to stand out.

DO: Do you see yourself owning a fashion brand later on

down the line? Maybe a vintage store?

S: I would love to do both, it’s in my life plan for sure.

DO: What do you think is the best way for someone to

get into the fashion culture?

S: The best way I would say is to follow fashion

Instagram pages like @liljupiterr, @fashionfuckery etc.

also to have a few fashion news outlets to check up on

like HYPEBEAST and HighSnobiet. If you really want

dive into the culture, join Facebook Groups like The

Basement and Wavey Garms and just go from there

really. I find its a natural progression.

DO: If you could give three adjectives to describe your

style, what would they be?

S: Eccentric, nostalgic, megalomaniac.

DO: What inspires your personal style? (Is influenced by

your surroundings, music, etc.)

S: My personal style kind of takes on a life of its own,

I find myself tweaking my style every 3-6 weeks, for

example, if you see my early videos its all streetwear,

then it was vintage sportswear, then 1990s and now

its more 2000s inspired. I get my inspiration from a

number of places; Instagram pages, out on the streets

and music, but mostly its just that I have an aesthetic

stuck in my head.

Opinions on hypebeasts?

Hypebeasts are always going to be a thing. If you boil

it down, hypebeasts exist in all subcultures anyway its

just another word for following popular trends in my

opinion. I always say that everyone should be able to

dress how they want.

DO: You once said you were more into the hypebeast

movement when you first started YouTube, did you

necessarily go down that path because you thought it

was the way to success on YouTube or did you genuinely

like the hypebeast clothing?

S: I started off in the hypebeast movement because it

was all I knew, my very first exposure to fashion was

hypebeasts. Crepe City it was all about Supreme, Palace

and Bape. I genuinely got caught up in the hype, I really

wanted to wear Supreme just for the logo but that didn’t

last long. All my videos were/are genuine in a sense

that I 100% believe in what I am saying. Saying that

though, I think all YouTubers pander a little to current

popular trends but there’s nothing wrong with that as

long as you’re honest with yourself and your audience.

When I learned more about the scope of fashion as a

whole I still appreciated the hypebeast movement but

eventually accepted that I would never be truly apart of

it. I found myself being more drawn to other areas of

fashion such as vintage and high fashion and learning

about designers and the actual messages and meanings

brands put out there.

DO: Did the area you grew up in effect the way you

dressed?

S: It did to start off with, I think all small town areas

have some kind of fashion scene. Here it’s about Nike

TNs, North Face Jackets, Nike Huaraches and man bags.

DO: Thoughts on Virgil’s first ever show at Louis Vuitton

as the Men’s artistic director? Do you think he will

influence other high-end fashion brands to conform to

street-wear?

S: This is a bigger deal than people realise in my opinion.

Virgil is essentially implementing and normalising

streetwear fashion into the main vein of the fashion

industry and even now we are seeing big brands

interpreting streetwear, for example, Burberry x Gosha

and Louis Vuitton x Supreme. More will come, too.

DO: For the young people who can’t get a full-time job,

in your opinion, what is the best way to make money in

the fashion world?

S: Thrift, trust me there’s more than enough to go

around, its the easiest ‘business’ to set up and you don’t

need much to get started, just a few items and a Depop

page.

52

CHAIN


T-shirt Thrifted, Jewellery His Own


DO: What would you say to the people reading this now who want to get into the fashion world?

S: It’s a whole different world man, like for real its mad how this whole culture exists right under your nose.

DO: What can people expect to see from you next?

I am going on a mad one trust me,

I’ve got big plans for 2018.

Visit sicckm8’s YouTube channel youtube.com/user/adamhackerhart

Follow him on Instagram - @sicckm8

T-shirt Thrifted


T-Shirt Off-Whtie x Champion, Jeans Tommy Hilfiger, Shoes Nike Air Max 96


Fashion Talks

with @alvssa_

Interview ALISHA FRANCIS

Photography KEN TRIJO


ALISHA FRANCIS: Who are you and where are you based?

ALYSSA LEE: My name is Alyssa. I’m based in Perth,

Western Australia, which no one really thinks about!

AF: What do you do?

AL: Hmm. I’d say ––– I still don’t know what to call

myself, like Instagram Influencer? Style influencer? I just

post pictures of outfits that I wear and some people like

it I guess, and I think it inspires people. I don’t know, but

I want to further it into a career and work in fashion, but

we’ll get there.

AF: How would you describe your style?

AL: It can change literally on what mood I’m in. So one

day I’ll be like a 12-year-old boy, and the next day I could

be in a full grandpa outfit [laughter]. It really depends

on how I’m feeling, but I love oversized fits, and colours.

AF: Who influenced your style?

AL: In the beginning, way before I started Instagram, it

was always celebrities.

Celebrities like Rihanna (obviously), I love what Bella

Hadid wears as well and Alexa Chung. So before I would

just look through magazines and be influenced by their

styles, but then when social media became a thing, I

began looking at Instagram for style tips.

AF: Have you always been interested in fashion? Did it

peak over time?

AL: I’ve always been interested in it, but when you’re in

school it’s really hard to go and wear what you want since

you’re always in uniform. So when I got out of school, I

definitely got more interested in fashion because I was

able to choose what I wore every day. So yeah that’s where

my interest peaked.

AF: What are your favourite brands?

AL: Well, I really like high-end brands. I just wish I could afford it. But I love Raf Simons and like how he does

oversized fits and Gucci... Gucci is so sick! Like their latest editorial with Harry Styles? Wow. I just wish I could

afford it.

AF: What do you think of the pros and cons of living in Australia when it comes to fashion?

AL: I don’t think Australia, in general, isn’t bad, but Perth? It’s just so behind! Just ‘cos like I think people are too

afraid to wear what they want and people here are so judgemental! I’ll go out into the street and have everyone

look at me being like “What are you wearing?”. It can break down your confidence just a bit, but if you go over east,

no one looks at you since everyone does it. So I think Australia as a whole isn’t bad, but it’s just Perth...probably

Adelaide as well (laughter) but I’ve never been there, I’m just guessing.

CHAIN 57


AF: Why did you turn to Instagram as a platform to express yourself?

AL: I think it’s just really easy. As for any creative. You can just post what you want and others who like similar stuff

will find you. I think it’s just easy and the community is so nice!

AF: How has your style evolved over the past few years? And would you want to try new styles in the future or

change it?

AL: I think I’ve just become more confident in what I want to wear. Because before I used to be so scared to wear

what I wanted, but recently, I’ve been more confident and a lot better with that. And–––I don’t know if I’d change

it. Probably not. I think I’ve finally found my personal style. In the future, though I hope I can just start to afford

nicer, higher quality things. Like a lot of the things I have now are nice, but they just break down quicker since it’s

cheaper. Hopefully, I can just start to afford more luxury things in the future, so we’ll see.

AF: What advice would you give to aspiring influencers?

AL: It’s really hard. I just want to say like “Wear what you want!” but I know it’s not that easy because it wasn’t that

easy for me. But that’s all there is to it! You just have to do it, and not care what anyone thinks. Then, in the end,

you will feel better because finally, you can wear what you want to wear.

Follow Alyssa on Instagram - @alvssa_


LIVERPOOL AND FASHION

Written by JOE ROONEY, OLLIE BIELBY

Photograhy: KIMS MIHAILOVS, OLLIE BIELBY


Liverpool, a working-class city with

a less than admirable reputation.

It was neglected in the 1980s,

deemed unsuitable for substantial

funding and left in the shadows

while it’s metropolitan counterparts

Manchester and London were

regenerated instead. Relying on

two football teams and a band from

nearly 60 years ago to pull through,

Liverpool has often been seen as a

city to shy away from, and for a fair

reason. Always a step behind every

other major British city, Liverpool

was left in the past. But nowadays

it’s catching up fast, the north-west

is no longer a place to stray away

from. And I think it’s something

everyone from Liverpool has come

to recognise.

In the past 10 years, there has been

a substantial change with funding

being pumped into the city, mainly

64

thanks to Liverpool’s win of the

bid to become Europe’s ‘Capital

of Culture’ in 2008. It had proven

to be a profitable and sustainable

investment with a successful increase

in tourism and a greater attraction

to the city. Bold Street is a melting

pot for a concoction of different

cultures, and has always been a place

of interest in Liverpool, as well as a

place for the youth to hang out. The

Baltic Triangle is rising up the ranks

as one of Liverpool’s top places to

visit. The development of areas such

as the Albert Dock and Liverpool 1

also deserve honourable mentions.

But Liverpool 1 being dominated by

large names and corporations meant

that foundations could be built for

other areas across the city.

The main areas for Liverpool’s

growing alternative scene have to be

the aforementioned Baltic Triangle

Bold Street. The Baltic Triangle,

once considered a dump, has now

been monopolised and turned into

valuable land that independent

businesses have snapped up. It

captured an audience of all ages with

a new wave of mentality, affecting

the fashion scene heavily.

Influence from these alternative

areas encouraged people to dress

‘differently’ and be themselves.

Acceptance of these new styles

allowed the city to become a

centre for change and diversity, a

proud achievement that has to be

recognised. Once known for permed

hair and an accent that would make

Geordies flinch, Liverpool has now

embraced new trends and styles,

overall becoming a much ‘trendier’

city. For the more style-savvy

people in Liverpool, stores such as

Resurrection, The Outsiders Store,


Soho’s and size? have become more

and more popular for experimental

dressing.

Above a bar in the more alternative

part of Liverpool resides Lost Art,

an interesting store. Created by a

group of skaters, they have released

their own clothing collections as

well as collaborations with Nike SB

and New Balance. To get into Lost

Art, you must buzz in at a door next

to the DJ booth.

The focus for style in Liverpool

primarily lies on Bold Street, where

most of the stores reside. Bold Street

seems to have embraced this new

wave more than anywhere else in

Liverpool, although it is a relatively

small street. It perfectly captures

the ongoing development and

diversity within the city, having the

confidence and financial backing to

make a breakthrough. Liverpool has

become something more than

than a trend in itself.

For such a long time it was acceptable

to wear the latest and most expensive

shoes paired with a pair of jeans and

a branded t-shirt. A lot of people

would even wear a mountaineering

jacket or an Arctic exploration

coat along with these outfits, even

if it’s the middle of July! This was

considered fashionable (and still is,

to some people). The focal point of

fashion is beginning to change, with

so many people experimenting with

different styles that differ from the

Liverpool ‘scally’ norm. Brands such

as Vans and Converse are making a

massive comeback by producing

relatively cheap, but well-designed

shoes that have been a massive hit in

Liverpool. A few years ago wearing

shoes like these would have you

labelled as

‘different’ or an ‘outsider’, whereas

now they are becoming ‘cool’ and

relatively mainstream again. On

the streets of Liverpool nowadays,

you will notice that a lot more

concentration and effort go into

outfits. Original and well thoughtout

outfits are more prevalent now

in Liverpool than ever before.

Liverpool is redeveloping its own

identity. The ‘scally’ era is dying out.

Brands such as Mountain Equipment

and Berghaus are being replaced by

the likes of Champion and Dickies.

The fashion in Liverpool has become

a lot less price orientated.

Liverpool’s acceptance of vintage

and going to second-hand stores

shows a taste for wanting to be

different. For so long, vintage was

just a nice word for saying something

CHAIN 65


something is old, and basically, s**t. Instead vintage has

a new meaning. Stores that sell second-hand items are

practically crawling with students and youth at the weekend,

all searching through shelves and boxes for original pieces

they know nobody else will have. The store ‘Cow’ is the

spearhead for this movement and has made vintage more

widely acceptable. With the distressed, beaten and repaired

look becoming popular in both men’s and women’s fashion

in Liverpool.

Where men’s fashion is concerned, the ‘hypebeast’ style isn’t

seen so much. You will see the odd hypebeast sporting your

typical hyped brands such as Supreme, Palace and Bape

along with a pair of Yeezy Boost 350s (the less said about

that the better). Skinny jeans are seeming to become a thing

of the past, being knocked off their perch and replaced with

baggier, stonewashed jeans. Workwear brands are clearly

another focus due to their quality, durability and formal

style. It’s a smart look with brands such as Carhartt, Stan

Ray, Dickies amd Manastash leading the way. This leaves a

question: Why are brands that create clothes with the intent

for hard-working jobs being worn by a movement that is

typically associated with the other end of the working

spectrum? While this obviously isn’t

exclusive to Liverpool, workwear has made its way into men

and women’s modern fashion, being sold in a lot of shops.

Workwear brands are becoming more and more popular.

Overall, the style of Liverpool’s youth has changed a lot

recently. The fear of being seen as different no longer being

as much of a problem. While the older generation looks

on in horror, the younger continues to grow. The youth

are taking the city of Liverpool in a new direction, with a

reputation for all the right reasons.


DANIEL’S INSANITY

INSANE CULT

Interview DYLAN O’CONNOR

Photography DANAIT DESTA

Shirt Dior, Pants Calvin Klein, Chest Rig ALYX - $630, Tactical Leg Bag INSANE CULT - $165


I’m from Washington DC, this like a smaller NYC style

pops up in everyday life. I’m a fan of Jimi Hendrix,

Eddie Murphy, Nigo, Ye, Pharrell, Robert Morris,

Micheal Jackson and the list goes on. I’m inspired daily

for style, shoot concepts, & design. Pain inspires me,

love inspires me, death inspires me and life inspires

me. My little brothers play a huge role in inspiring me.

I grind for them, I want them to see that they can do

anything and I want to buy them the world. But I must

admit I owe a lot of my style inspiration to my Dad. He

the’ flyest man I know. When I was little I was fascinated

by his closet. He had like 90’s North Faces, Pelle Pelles

and Polos. At least 70 pairs of shoes and 100’s of suits.

He still does. I never told him that though. We’re always

in competition for the best style in the family. I strive

to have a closet like that as I grow. Just different pieces.

I owe it to my grandma also. She had the meanest hat

collection. I’m talking rooms full. At least 1500 hats.

They weren’t no $30 hats either. We talking $500 and

$800 hats. She a real boss. My style and interests comes

from all them.

I started off co-designing, styling for brands, celebrities

and doing editorial styling. That’s how I met Osiris

actually, he saw some of the work I had done for

Vogue and has supported me ever since. He believed

in me before anyone with their foot in the door did.

So from the connections and people I met from doing

those jobs, I branched off and did my own thing and

started INSANE CULT. INSANE CULT is a concept I

had years ago. The meaning of being INSANE, is being

in a state of mind that prevents normal perception,

behavior, or social interaction. The meaning of CULT,

is to have excessive admiration for a particular person

or thing. So the concept idea for the INSANE CULT

brand is that everyone is in a cult of their own. Whether

that is going to college and studying medicine for 10

years or practicing a sport since you were a child to play

professional. Everyone connects the word cult with

something negative when really it is just strict focus on

what you want to do in life. In this case not religion, but

arts. I’m a strong believer of chasing your dreams and

that anything is possible. Ask anyone who knows me.

I’m that “Well who says that you can’t” type of person. I

put my all into fashion just like football players put their

all into their games and just how cult leaders put their

all into what they believe in. It’s about belief in yourself

that

70

anything is possible.

Running a streetwear brand is actually fun. It gives

me no limits. Honestly, I can do and make anything I

want. The main difficulties for me were solidifying the

business side of the brand. The lawyer stuff. I am a king

marketer, I can create products such as the [Tactical Leg

Bag] and [Thigh Bag] that breaks the internet. Humbly

speaking, you have never seen that before. I’ve done my

research, you haven’t seen that from no brand. To say I

brought that into fashion, as an 18-year-old streetwear

designer is like mind-blowing to me. God out the

right tools and people in my path to make it though.

He gave me the dream and hasn’t stopped pushing me

to get there. INSANE CULT is different off the jump

because we are what they call a “culture brand.” I talk

to the customers daily, whether it be on IG, via text or

phone calls. I do what’s called “Cult Calls” where I drop

a burner phone number and I just let the people call and

speak to me. I want them to know this is family; if you

support me, you purchase from me, you’re family now

and I’m here to help with life problems and just here to

talk. We all people, we all love, we all hurt, I am here to

feel that with you. I play iPhone games with customers

from my iPod as if they my brothers and sisters and we

just having fun. I have always been into tactical gear, I

was wearing tactical boosts and vest years ago. In fact,

for my first meeting with Vogue when I was 16 I wore a

button up dress shirt with a tactical vest over it and tux

pants. That’s just always been me. My grandfather was

in the navy, and my other grams’ would always watch

military movies with me when I was young. We used to

always watch Black Hawk Down together, little does she

know that movie changed my life. It taught me loyalty

and grit. It also inspired me to be into tactical gear. Plus,

it’s timeless. Tactical gear has been used for years and

will be used for years in the future. A good friend of

mine told me he loves my leg bags because it can be

seen on mailmen, doctors, police, soldiers, and fashion

kids. Anyone can wear it and I love that. The [WWM

365 RUNNERS] is my first shoe ever. My cousin Kris

along with my brother and I always collected shoes. We

had hundreds of sneakers. You mentioned brands not

taking the risk of releasing a shoe, well that’s why I did

it. I’m a risk taker. I had the resources to make a shoe,

why wait? If I wait someone else will do it and instead

of being ahead I am now behind. I can’t let that happen.

CHAIN


T-shirt Hanes - $15, Chest Rig ALYX - $630, Jewellery his own


Crewneck Rag & Bone - $325, Pants INSANE CULT (UNRELEASED), Shoes INSANE CULT - $185


Shorts INSANE CULT - $65, Jewellery his own


Crewneck Raf Simons - $260, Pants Calvin Klein 205W39NYC - $620, Chest Rig ALYX - $630, Jewellery his own


I have always wanted to make a shoe. I use to sketch shoes in middle school during media class. I’m living proof

that you don’t need to hoop to have your own shoe by 18. Chase that dream. I do things because people say I can’t.

Plus, I got bored with other brands of shoes. So I made my own. Collaborating with other brands is important in

my eyes. It helps expand the brand’s consumer. You gain the customers of the brand you collaborated with and

they gain your customers. It’s a win-win. I actually met the owner of Prix through my friend Dylan. He [Dylan]

helps creative direct and style for them. Him & I where just choppin’ it up and I think at the exact same time as

he was showing me the brand he worked for, I was sending him a screenshot of their page saying I want to collab

with them. Off the back, we knew it was going down. He got me plugged with the owner/designer Esther and the

rest is history. When it comes to Alex that’s my hommie. I first met him in NYC with my friend Romy. We ran the

streets, ate, did some shopping and then were cool ever since. A couple weeks after that he moved to LA and I was

travelling there for work and we just linked up out there and we did some shoots and just bounced ideas off each

other and said ‘lets collab and make it happen’. INSANE CULT X H.8.M.N is now a thing. It’s beautiful. I live for

the networks. I live for connecting and building relationships. I love Alex like a brother. He’s super funny, super

creative and super smart. The future of INSANE CULT is in the people’s hands. Of course, I have full control but

without the customer, the brand doesn’t run. In this case, they’re family and you can’t unmake someone family

right?

So we forever, that’s the greatness in it.

Visit the INSANE CULT website https://www.insanecult.com/shop/

Follow the INSANE CULT Instagram - @insane_cult_

“I live for the networks. I live

for connecting and building

relationships.”

CHAIN 75


CHAIN

ISSUE 2

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