Pittwater Life October 2018 Issue

  • No tags were found...

Back to the beach. We're getting angry! Operation Go. Wherefore art though? Latest Local News.


October 3-14: Quiksilver/Roxy Pro, Hossegor, France

October 16-27: MEO Pro presented by Rip Curl, Peniche, Portugal

These events will almost certainly sort out the men’s world championship

this year, if not the women’s. Extraordinary truths now

surround the men’s title. Seven of the eight events on the Championship

Tour so far have been won by Brazilian surfers: Filipe Toledo,

Willian Cardoso, and Gabriel Medina. Only one has been won

by an Australian, Julian Wilson; none by an American or Hawaiian,

while the current world champ, John Florence, is missing in action

with an injured knee. It’s Filipe or Gabriel, and nobody will argue

with either, they’re too good. The women’s is boiling down to a

battle between Steph Gilmore and Hawaii’s Carissa Moore, and we

can’t see that battle being resolved in France; these two classic

surfers will have to wait till Maui in December to sort it out. Watch

on worldsurfleague.com


You know those switchback winds we experienced in September,

northerly one minute, southerly the next? Pretty typical of a normal

September. In a normal October, those winds tend to collapse down

and swing easterly for several days at a time, bringing in plenty of

moisture from the Tasman and by extension from the South Pacific,

along with a lot of sea life, the odd coconut, and more than a few

bluebottles. You never know about this, but it doesn’t feel to me as

if we are about to experience a normal October. Instead I suspect

we’ll see more of what September brought, but with the northerlies

gaining an upper hand over the southerlies. Those northerlies may

eventually begin to channel some rain and unstable weather down

from the approaching SE Asian monsoon, but don’t bet on it in

October. Instead, prepare for a month of weak early summer-type

surf, continued upwelling events, and an occasional long-range

groundswell pulse from remnant winter storms passing Tasmania.

Lord knows I could be wrong, a bombshell may strike, but nah.

Nick Carroll

Surfing Life

taboo for most men. (The

incident alleged to have

occurred at Lennox happened

well away from apparent

public gaze, down the bay

and out of sight of other


But direct surf-related

violence by men against

men has also been on the

decrease in recent years, as

lineup demographics have

changed, and old habits

altered in the process.

None of it alters the impact

of angry older men who, for

whatever reason, decide to

act out on women who’ve

chosen to enter what those

men consider to be their


It’s far from the historical

norm. Many pioneer women

surfers of the 1970s – a

time when surf violence

was far more prevalent than

it is today – have told me

they experienced nothing

The Local Voice Since 1991

of it, and on the contrary,

found the boys of the day

great company in the water.

Perhaps as the years have

passed, some of those boys

have turned more sour than


And this research is far

from finished. Maybe nothing

like what’s alleged to have

happened at Lennox will

surface in the weeks to come.

And yes, lord knows,


Nonetheless, if you’re a

man who feels impelled to act

violently toward others in the

surf, maybe use the impulse

as a sort of warning, ie, when

you want to hit someone,

go home instead, and have

a good hard look in the

mirror. And if you’re an older

middle-aged man inclined to

aggression of any kind toward

women in the surf, get out of

the surf. Like, really, get out.

There’s no place for it, or you.

OCTOBER 2018 43

More magazines by this user
Similar magazines