Viva Lewes Issue #145 October 2018

VivaMagazines

FOOD REVIEW

Caccia & Tails

Just delish

I’ve been eagerly

awaiting the arrival

of Caccia & Tails. A

café serving homemade

pasta and

focaccia, stylishly

branded, and just a

couple of minutes’

walk from the Viva

office – it’s right

up my street (via a

twitten). I can’t help

but wander past on

opening day, just to see what it’s all about. It’s

small – there’s a bar with a few stools along one

wall and a little kitchen with an enormous oven

along the other – but it’s just my kind of place:

modern and minimal with splashes of parakeet

green and canary yellow.

In the window are trays of freshly-baked focaccia

Genovese and farinata, which, owner Elisa

Furci explains, is a kind of Italian flatbread made

with chickpea flour. They’re stuffed and topped

with various delicious-looking combinations of

ingredients, and there are fresh cannoli and filled

doughnuts too. It all looks very enticing. I try a

slice of farinata, slathered with pesto and sprinkled

with pieces of sundried tomato and pine

nuts (£3.95). It’s just delicious: the bread is dense

but soft, and oily enough to feel quite indulgent.

I have a quick read of the menu board – pasta

served with cavolo nero and dukkah (£6), subs

filled with meatballs or pancetta (£6.95), sides of

polenta (£2.95) or mac ‘n’ cheese (£3.95) fries –

and arrange to meet some friends there for lunch

a few days later.

I arrive first. While I’m gazing at the board,

wondering what to have, Elisa points out today’s

dish on the ‘Speciali’ board by the door: pasta

with feta, yoghurt,

pea, chilli and pine

nuts (£6.95). That’s

the one for me. Jamie

arrives next; a quick

glance at the board

and he’s set on a beef

ragu (£7.50) and

when Sam walks in,

her eye is immediately

caught by the

breads in the window.

She goes for the

focaccia with pesto, sunblushed tomatoes and

olives (£3.95).

“Shall we get some fries too?” I ask, as if it were

a question.

“Ooh, polenta or mac ‘n’ cheese?”

“Both?” We get both.

The three of us watch as Elisa and another chef

prepare our food fresh to order and pack it all

into a brown paper bag like a luxurious picnic.

It’s such a nice day that we take it away to the

Grange to eat in the sun.

My mouth is watering as I unpack the food onto

the grass. I can’t wait to dig in. The pasta is

beautiful: thick tubes coated in the tangy yoghurt

sauce and topped with plenty of feta and grated

parmesan. The fries come with two kinds of mayonnaise:

marmite mayo for the mac ‘n’ cheese

ones and truffle mayo for the polenta. The ragu

goes down really well, and the soft fluffy focaccia

gets great reviews. By the time the last polenta

fry is offered around, we’re all pretty stuffed.

Later on, in the Viva office, as I’m raving about

my lunch, somebody asks ‘did you try the cheese

focaccia? That’s really good.’ I guess I’ll be heading

back soon. Rebecca Cunningham

15 Station Street, cacciaandtails.com

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