Estetica Magazine UK (1/2018)


Estetica Magazine is the world's leading hairdressing magazine. Founded in Italy in 1946 and published today in over 60 countries around the world, it is a global reference point for professionals working in the hair and beauty industry. Techniques, fashion, education and trends are at the core of every issue of Estetica Magazine. Further information about both the printed and digital versions of the magazine is available at

eputation,” says Cos. “We regularly

work with Pam Hogg, Henry

Holland, Paul Costelloe, Tata Naka

and Xiao Li among many others.

There’s a lot of communication in

the run-up to fashion week and it’s

the hair test day that really helps

build trust. “It’s a balance between

bringing to life the designer’s

desired look but also being honest

if you feel a style isn’t possible to

achieve. Providing honest feedback

quickly gains respect. If you’ve

worked with a designer for a few

seasons, everything comes together

quite quickly. If it’s a newer

relationship, you need to be more

flexible to accommodate the many

moving parts leading up to Fashion

Week,” says Cos.

But given catwalk hair has become

more relaxed and nonchalant of

late – how do you make it look

special and fresh to each designer?

“Paying attention to detail is key,

because with detail comes

originality,” explains Cos. “It

Forging a rapport

with the designer is

a basic requisite

doesn’t need to be outlandish to be

noticed. Media is so important for

the designer’s future sales, so the

hair needs to resonate with the

consumer. We don’t want to scare

them off.”

Seamless backstage work also

involves creating a harmonious

team. TONI&GUY chooses session

team members via an audition

process where stylists must

replicate five set looks that cover

various techniques. “This allows us

to assess each candidate on their

skill level as well as gauge how well

they work under pressure,” says

Cos. “To be a great catwalk

hairdresser you need to be trained

in all disciplines so you can create

anything that’s thrown at you, be

flexible and forward thinking.

Successful candidates are invited

back to a boot-camp for people to

meet each other and gel. It’s so

important for a team to work well

as a unit, that each member show

respect for the head of team’s lead,

one another’s skills and the

designer and models’ needs.”

Although full-on in his role as

Global Creative Director for Regis,

Kieron Fowles makes time to be

part of the backstage team for

many creative catwalk kings –

Guido Palau and Eugene

Soulieman included. Kieron got

hooked on fashion through his

earlier work with TONI&GUY and

he’s worked on many top shows

including Victoria Beckham,

Alexander Wang, Preen and

Yohji Yamamoto.

But earning your stripes and being

and asked to work backstage

doesn’t come easy. “You have to

earn your place, it’s a bit like being

Lulu Guiness AW18; Hair by Zoe Irwin for ghd

“Work-wise I wouldn’t go

anywhere without my ghd

gold styler and ghd root

lift spray – I use it as a

base for everything,”

says Zoe Irwin.

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